JP2024175736A - Lame yarn and woven/knitted fabrics containing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

【assignment】
To provide a lame yarn and a woven/knitted fabric which are soft and have a soft surface touch with reduced irritation to the skin and a highly precise appearance even in fine details.
SOLUTION
A lame yarn comprising a metallic luster yarn and a filament, wherein the width L of the metallic luster yarn is 50 μmm or more and 130 μm or less, the strength of the filament is 5.5 cN/dtex or more, the total fineness of the lame yarn is 10 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less, and the ratio ((L-D)/L) of the difference (L-D) between the width L of the metallic luster yarn and the diameter D of the filament to the width L of the metallic luster yarn is 0.70 or less.

[Selected Figure] Figure 1

Description

The present invention relates to lame yarn and woven and knitted fabrics containing the same.

Traditionally, gold and silver threads with a metallic sheen have been widely used in women's fashion for their luxurious feel and dazzling appearance, as materials for printed fabrics and plain knitted fabrics. They are also widely used in interior textile products such as curtains as gorgeous lamé threads.

For example, a lamé thread has been proposed that includes a slit gloss thread obtained by micro-slitting a metal-deposited film and other threads (see, for example, Patent Documents 1 and 2).

In addition, in order to improve the flexibility of woven and knitted fabrics using lame yarn, a composite gold and silver yarn core yarn consisting of a gold and silver yarn film and a filament has been proposed in which the film is randomly twisted in the longitudinal direction and has a converging portion intertwined with the single filament yarn (see, for example, Patent Document 3).

Furthermore, in order to improve the feel of fabrics using lamé yarn, a spun twisted yarn has been proposed that uses a metallic luster yarn obtained by slitting a laminate consisting of a base material and a metal thin film layer as a core yarn and a group of short fibers as a sheath yarn (see, for example, Patent Document 4).

Patent No. 6400868 JP 2012-207343 A Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 11-217738 JP 2000-54234 A

In general, as described above, glitter threads are intended to be decorative with an emphasis on appearance, so a certain width is required for the glossy threads using the film. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that the width of the slit glitter thread obtained by micro-slitting a metal deposition film formed by laminating a metal deposition layer and a metal deposition protective layer on one side of a base film is preferably 0.15 mm or more. However, if the width is wide, a high-definition appearance cannot be obtained. In addition, Patent Document 1 describes the twisting of the slit glitter thread and other threads, but from the perspective of strength, the narrower the width of the glitter thread, the thicker the other thread needs to be for strength, which is also a reason why it is difficult to obtain a high-definition appearance. In addition, if the width of the metallic glossy thread is wide or the other thread is thick, the flexibility and feel are also poor.

On the other hand, the composite gold and silver yarn described in Patent Document 3 is said to have excellent flexibility due to a unique structure in which the film is randomly twisted in the longitudinal direction. However, in addition to being limited to a unique structure in order to achieve flexibility, the glossy yarn is wide and the fineness of the composite filaments is also large, so it was not possible to achieve a highly detailed appearance.

In addition, the technology described in Patent Document 4 improves the feel of the material by using spun cross-twisted yarn, but is limited to the same unique structure as above, and does not allow for a highly detailed appearance or excellent flexibility.

After investigating why a highly detailed appearance could not be achieved, the inventors found that with conventional lamé yarns, narrowing the width of the glossy yarn reduces the strength, making it necessary to thicken the other yarns, and that with such a configuration, the proportion of other yarns in the lamé yarn increases relatively and the proportion of the glossy yarn decreases, reducing the decorativeness of the lamé yarn. In other words, they found that conventional lamé yarns have the problem of not being able to achieve a highly detailed appearance or texture such as flexibility or feel.

The objective of the present invention is to provide a lamé yarn that has a precise, high-definition appearance down to the smallest detail, and excellent flexibility and feel, as well as a woven or knitted fabric that contains the same.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has the following configuration.
(1) A lame yarn comprising a metallic luster yarn and a filament, wherein the width L of the metallic luster yarn is 50 μm or more and 130 μm or less, the strength of the filament is 5.5 cN/dtex or more, the total fineness of the lame yarn is 10 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less, and the ratio ((L-D)/L) of the difference (L-D) between the width L of the metallic luster yarn and the diameter D of the filament to the width L of the metallic luster yarn is 0.70 or less.
(2) The lame yarn described in (1) above, wherein the filament is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber.
(3) The lame yarn according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the filament has a modified cross-sectional shape.
(4) A lame yarn according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the filaments contain titanium oxide.
(5) The lame yarn described in (4) above, in which the concentration of the titanium oxide is 0.1% by mass or more and 15.0% by mass or less relative to the filament.
(6) A woven or knitted fabric comprising the lame yarn described in any one of (1) to (5) above.

The present invention makes it possible to obtain a lamé yarn that has a high-definition appearance and a soft surface touch that is soft and reduces irritation to the skin, as well as a woven or knitted fabric that contains the same.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of an embodiment of the lamé yarn of the present invention.

The lame thread in the present invention refers to a thread containing a metallic luster thread and a filament. An example of a metallic luster thread is a thread obtained by coloring a film having a metallic luster by vapor deposition of a metal as necessary and cutting the film into slits. However, in the present invention, the thread does not necessarily need to contain a metal as long as it has a metallic luster. For example, the thread may be obtained by slitting a film having a metallic luster by interference coloring or the like. In terms of cost and simplicity, a metallic luster thread using a metal vapor deposition film is preferable. There is no particular restriction on the metal vapor deposition film, and any film obtained by a known manufacturing method can be used. For example, a metal layer of a metal, an alloy, or a metal compound such as gold, silver, aluminum, nickel, or tin can be formed on various films such as polyester, polyamide, or polyvinyl chloride by a known method such as vapor deposition, sputtering, ion beam, ion plating, or coating. In addition, a metallic luster of any color can be obtained by coloring. Furthermore, in order to protect the metal layer, a polymer coating or various films can be laminated. The obtained metallic luster film can be slit to form a metallic luster thread.

The width L of the metallic gloss thread in the present invention is 130 μm or less. The width L is preferably 110 μm or less, and more preferably 100 μm or less. If it exceeds the above range, a fine appearance cannot be obtained, and the texture becomes hard and the touch is poor. The width L is 50 μm or more. It is preferable that it is 80 μm or more. If it is less than the above range, the glossy appearance will be poor and the quality will be easily reduced due to fluffing, etc. The width L of the metallic gloss thread refers to the longest part in the cross section perpendicular to the fiber axis direction, and does not necessarily have to coincide with the slit width. The measurement method is as described in the examples below. The thickness of the metallic gloss thread is not particularly limited, but is generally 1 to 30 μm.

The filaments contained in the lame yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited, and natural fibers, chemical fibers, synthetic fibers, etc. can be used as appropriate, but synthetic fibers are preferred in terms of strength and cost. Examples of polymers constituting synthetic fibers include polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyesters such as polylactic acid, polyolefins such as polypropylene, polycarbonates, polyacrylates, polyamides, polyurethanes, and polyphenylene sulfides, and mixtures of one or more of their copolymers. Among these, thermoplastic synthetic fibers using thermoplastic polymers are preferred. In terms of improving the softness of the surface touch, it is a preferred embodiment of the present invention to use a copolymer at least in part.

The strength of the filament in the present invention is 5.5 cN/dtex or more. It is preferably 6.0 cN/dtex or more. The strength of a typical filament is 5.0 cN/dtex or less, but if the strength is less than the range of the present invention described above, it may be necessary to widen the width of the metallic luster thread to increase the lame thread strength, and a high-definition appearance may not be obtained, or if the width is narrowed, the strength may decrease, causing fluffing and concerns about thread breakage during knitting and weaving. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but in terms of texture, 10.0 cN/dtex or less is preferable, and 7.0 cN/dtex or less is more preferable. The manufacturing method for the filament in the above range is not particularly limited, but an example is a manufacturing method in which a high polymerization degree polymer is used, and an undrawn thread melt-spun at a low spinning speed is subjected to multi-stage drawing using multiple heating rollers.

The total fineness of the filaments is preferably 15 dtex or less, and more preferably 12 dtex or less. A total fineness in this range is preferable in terms of obtaining a highly detailed appearance, soft texture, and smooth feel. A total fineness of 5 dtex or more is also preferable, and more preferably 8 dtex or more. A total fineness in this range is preferable in terms of suppressing the generation of fluff and providing a good feel to the touch.

The filament diameter D is preferably 45 μm or less, more preferably 40 μm or less. A filament diameter in the above range is preferable in terms of obtaining a highly detailed appearance, a soft texture, and a smooth feel. It is also preferable that it is 20 μm or more, more preferably 30 μm or more. A filament diameter D in the above range is preferable in terms of obtaining a good feel. The filament diameter D in this invention is the value obtained by converting the total fineness of the filament into a monofilament with a perfect circular cross section, specifically the value measured by the method in the examples described later. The filament in this invention may be a multifilament or a monofilament, but the value of the diameter D is the value converted from the total fineness regardless of the number of filaments.

The cross-sectional shape of the filament when cut in a direction perpendicular to the length direction is not particularly limited, and may be either a perfect circle or an irregular cross-sectional shape. Irregular cross-sectional shapes include flat cross-sections, polygonal cross-sections such as triangles, squares, hexagons, and octagons, daruma cross-sections with uneven parts, Y-shaped cross-sections, and star-shaped cross-sections. In the present invention, irregular cross-sectional shapes are preferable in terms of gloss, and triangular cross-sections are more preferable.

In the present invention, it is preferable that the filament contains various additives such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbers. In the present invention, the inclusion of titanium oxide is particularly preferable in terms of imparting a natural color tone to the high-definition appearance, excellent weather resistance and discoloration resistance, and surface touch. The concentration of titanium oxide is preferably 0.1 mass% or more relative to the filament containing it, and more preferably 0.2 mass% or more. If titanium oxide is contained in the above range or more, the projections on the thread surface increase, and the touch feeling when made into a fabric is further improved. In addition, titanium oxide is preferably 15.0 mass% or less, more preferably 5.0 mass% or less, and even more preferably 3.0 mass% or less. By setting the titanium oxide concentration to the above range or less, the projections on the thread surface can be appropriately controlled, and a soft surface touch feeling can be easily obtained. The titanium oxide concentration is a value measured by the method described in the examples below.

The lamé yarn of the present invention includes metallic luster yarn and filament, but the form is not particularly limited. Examples include twisted yarn, false twist intertwined composite, air processing, etc., but twisted yarn is preferred in terms of a calm appearance and smooth touch. The twisted yarn form is not particularly limited to round twist, bellows, sash, briyan, hagoromo, etc., but sash is preferred in terms of excellent texture with a soft surface touch and precise high-definition appearance that could not be obtained with conventional lamé yarn. For example, Figure 1 shows one form of lamé yarn (3) in which filament (2) is twisted in a sash shape to metallic luster yarn (1). The manufacturing method is also not particularly limited, and a conventionally known method can be adopted, such as twisting filaments, etc., into a sash shape around a metallic luster yarn cut into a slit shape as a core thread.

In the lame yarn of the present invention, the ratio ((L-D)/L) (hereinafter, this ratio may be referred to as the "appearance index") of the difference (L-D) between the width L of the metallic gloss thread and the diameter D (μm) of the filament to the width L (μm) of the metallic gloss thread is 0.70 or less. If it is 0.70 or less, when it is made into a fabric, the gaps between adjacent threads will create a fine unevenness on the surface of the fabric, resulting in an elegant light luster and a highly delicate appearance. The smaller the number, the more visually delicate it is, but it is sufficient as long as it is 0.70 or less. For the above reasons, the lower limit of the appearance index is not particularly limited, but it is preferable that it is 0.50 or more from the viewpoint of ease of production. On the other hand, if the appearance index is less than the above range, a highly detailed appearance cannot be obtained, and the softness and surface touch will also deteriorate. In the present invention, the range of this appearance index, as well as the range of the width L of the metallic gloss thread and the strength of the filament, are within the above-mentioned range of the present invention.

The total fineness of the lame yarn of the present invention is 50 dtex or less. 45 dtex or less is preferable, and 40 dtex or less is more preferable. If it exceeds the above range, it is difficult to obtain a fine appearance, and the texture becomes hard. In addition, the total fineness is 10 dtex or more, preferably 20 dtex or more, and more preferably 30 dtex or more. If the total fineness is less than the above range, the glossy appearance will be poor, and the quality will be easily reduced due to fluffing, etc.

The woven and knitted fabrics of the present invention are not particularly limited as long as they contain the lame yarn of the present invention. The weave of the woven and knitted fabric is also not particularly limited, and in the case of woven fabrics, the weave may be any of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and variations thereof, depending on the application. In the case of knitted fabrics, the weave may be any of plain weave, interlock weave, smooth weave, half weave, satin weave, jacquard weave, and variations thereof, depending on the application. These woven and knitted fabrics can be manufactured using known weaving and knitting machines, and no special method is required. In the present invention, woven and knitted fabrics are a general term including woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and woven and knitted fabrics.

The present invention will now be described in detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The physical properties described in the text and examples were measured by the following methods.

[Total fineness of multifilament and lame yarn]
The total fineness was calculated according to JIS L1013 8.3 (2010) Method A, and the value rounded to an integer according to Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z8401 was used as the total fineness.

[Strength of multifilament]
Measured in accordance with JIS L1013 8.5.1 (2010) Tensile strength.

The gripping distance was 200 mm, the pulling speed was 200 mm/min, and the load-elongation curve was obtained using a tensile tester (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation). The load value at break was divided by the initial fineness, and this was taken as the tensile strength. In the present invention, the figures were rounded off to one decimal place.

[Titanium oxide concentration]
The measurement was performed in accordance with JIS L1013 8.26 (2010) titanium oxide, and the average value of two measurements was rounded to one decimal place according to Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z8401, to obtain the titanium oxide concentration.

[Filament diameter D]
The total fineness of the multifilament and the density of the resin obtained above were used to convert the diameter of a perfectly circular monofilament into a value represented by the following formula, and the converted value was taken as the diameter D (μm).
D (μm) = 11.9 × √ ((9/10) × fineness (dtex)) / (ρ)
In the following examples, the density ρ was 1.38 for polyester and 1.14 for polyamide. The density ρ was calculated using the value obtained by JIS K7112 (1999) Method A.

[Width L of metallic gloss thread]
Using a vernier caliper with a minimum readable value of 0.02 mm as specified in JIS B7507, a test yarn with a length of 300 mm was taken, and measurements were taken at three points at approximately equal intervals along the length, the longest width at each measurement point was measured, and the average value was expressed in μm as L (μm).

[Appearance Index]
Using the diameter D (μm) of the multifilament and the width L (μm) of the metallic gloss yarn obtained by the above-mentioned method, the value was calculated by the following formula, rounded off to the nearest two decimal places.
- Appearance index = (LD)/L.

[High-definition appearance]
The high-definition appearance was evaluated by visual inspection by 10 experts using the following three-level judging method. ⊚ and ◯ were considered to be acceptable.
◎: Precision down to the smallest details, with a highly detailed appearance.
○: Precision down to the smallest detail, with a highly detailed appearance.
×: The details are rough and the high-definition appearance is poor.

[Texture]
The softness was evaluated by 10 experts using the following four-level rating system: Excellent and Good were considered acceptable.
◎: A texture that feels especially soft when touched with the hand.
○: Feels soft when touched with the hand.
△: Feels slightly soft when touched with the hand.
×: The texture does not feel soft when touched with the hand.

[Organization]
The knitting properties were evaluated as follows: no knitting yarn breakage was observed, and x was observed.

[Example 1]
A metallic luster yarn having a width of 100 μm, which was obtained by vapor-depositing silver on a polyester film, and a polyamide filament having a triangular cross section and a diameter of 30 μm, a strength of 6.4 cN/dtex, a titanium oxide content of 0.3 mass%, were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 34 decitex and an appearance index of 0.70.

The resulting lamé yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit was then opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing processing with acid dyes (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a soft surface touch, excellent texture, and a highly detailed appearance with precise detail.

[Example 2]
A 100 μm wide metallic luster yarn made by vapor-depositing silver on a polyamide film and a triangular cross-section polyamide filament with 11 dtex, 5 filaments, a diameter of 35 μm, a strength of 6.1 cN/dtex, a titanium oxide content of 0.3 mass%, were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 37 dtex and an appearance index of 0.65.

The resulting lamé yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit was then opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing processing with acid dyes (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a soft surface touch, excellent texture, and a highly detailed appearance with precise detail.

[Example 3]
A metallic luster yarn having a width of 80 μm, which was obtained by vapor-depositing silver on a polyester film, and a polyester filament having a triangular cross section and a diameter of 33 μm and a strength of 6.2 cN/dtex and a titanium oxide content of 0.3% by mass, were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 35 decitex and an appearance index of 0.58.

The resulting lamé yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit was then opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 185°C), dyeing with disperse dyes (temperature 130°C), and final setting (temperature 150°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a soft surface feel, an excellent texture, and a highly detailed appearance with precise detail.

[Example 4]
A metallic luster yarn having a width of 80 μm, which was obtained by vapor-depositing silver on a polyester film, and a polyester filament having a triangular cross section and a diameter of 38 μm and a strength of 6.3 cN/dtex and a titanium oxide content of 0.3% by mass were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 39 decitex and an appearance index of 0.52.

The resulting lamé yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit was then opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 185°C), dyeing with disperse dyes (temperature 130°C), and final setting (temperature 150°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a soft surface feel, an excellent texture, and a highly detailed appearance with precise detail.

[Example 5]
A 100 μm wide metallic luster yarn made by vapor-depositing silver on a polyamide film and a polyamide filament having a circular cross section and a diameter of 35 μm and a strength of 6.1 cN/dtex and a titanium oxide content of 0.3% by mass were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 37 decitex and an appearance index of 0.65.

The resulting lamé yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing processing with acid dyes (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a soft surface touch, a texture, and a highly detailed appearance.

[Example 6]
A 100 μm wide metallic luster yarn made by vapor-depositing silver on a polyamide film and a triangular cross-section polyamide filament of 11 dtex, 5 filaments, 35 μm diameter, strength 6.1 cN/dtex, titanium oxide content 0 mass%, were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 37 dtex and an appearance index of 0.65.

The resulting lamé yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing processing with acid dyes (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a soft surface feel, texture, and a highly detailed appearance. In addition, compared to Example 5, it had a beautiful drape and an elegant, natural luster.

[Comparative Example 1]
A metallic luster yarn having a width of 100 μm, which was obtained by vapor-depositing silver on a polyester film, and a polyamide filament having a triangular cross section and a diameter of 61 μm and a strength of 6.1 cN/dtex and a titanium oxide content of 0.3% by mass were cross-twisted to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 59 decitex and an appearance index of 0.39.

The resulting lame yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing processing with acid dyes (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a stiff texture and did not have a highly detailed appearance.

[Comparative Example 2]
A 200 μm wide metallic luster yarn made by vapor-depositing silver on a polyamide film and a 167 dtex 48 filament polyamide filament with a diameter of 124 μm, a strength of 4.6 cN/dtex, a titanium oxide content of 0.3 mass%, and a triangular cross section were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 176 dtex and an appearance index of 0.38.

The resulting lame yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 185°C), dyeing processing with disperse dyes (temperature 130°C), and final setting (temperature 150°C). The resulting knitted fabric had a stiff texture and did not have a highly detailed appearance.

[Comparative Example 3]
A metallic luster yarn having a width of 100 μm, which was obtained by vapor-depositing silver on a polyester film, and a polyamide filament having a triangular cross section and a diameter of 41 μm, a strength of 5.1 cN/dtex, a titanium oxide content of 0.3 mass%, were twisted together to obtain a lame yarn. The obtained lame yarn had a total fineness of 38 decitex and an appearance index of 0.59.

The resulting lame yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 32-gauge circular knitting machine, but yarn breakage occurred and knitting was not possible.

1: Metallic gloss thread 2: Filament 3: Glitter thread

Claims (6)

A lamé yarn comprising a metallic luster thread and a filament, the metallic luster thread having a width L of 50 μm or more and 130 μm or less, the filament having a strength of 5.5 cN/dtex or more, the lamé thread having a total fineness of 10 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less, and the ratio ((L-D)/L) of the difference (L-D) between the width L of the metallic luster thread and the diameter D of the filament to the width L of the metallic luster thread is 0.70 or less. The lame yarn according to claim 1, wherein the filaments are thermoplastic synthetic fibers. The lame yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the filament has an irregular cross-sectional shape. The lame yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the filaments contain titanium oxide. The lame yarn according to claim 4, wherein the concentration of the titanium oxide is 0.1% by mass or more and 15.0% by mass or less relative to the filament. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the lame yarn according to claim 1 or 2.

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