JP2014122199A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To solve the problem that in some instances, it is difficult that a nano-emulsion or a micro-emulsion has a high viscosity or a high consistency, and even when the high viscosity or the high consistency is achieved by using a viscosity improver and so forth, the emulsion hardly has a shape recovery property, and the emulsion with high viscosity has, typically, stickiness.SOLUTION: A cosmetic composition in a state of a nano-emulsion or a micro-emulsion comprises: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester of which HLB value is 8.0-13.0, preferably 9.0-13.0, more preferably 10.0-13.0; (c) at least one associative polyurethane; and (e) water. An amount of the oil included in the cosmetic composition is 0.1-15 mass%, preferably approximately 1-12 mass%, more preferably 2-10 mass% with respect to the total mass of the composition. The cosmetic composition can include a high viscosity or a high consistency, and a shape recovery characteristic. The cosmetic composition can have less stickiness. The cosmetic composition may have a dispersed phase of which diameter is smaller. Therefore, the cosmetic composition can be in a state of the nano-emulsion or the micro-emulsion which is transparent or slightly translucent.

Description

  The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

  Oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions are used in the cosmetics and dermatological fields, in particular for cosmetics such as milk, cream, tonics, cosmetics or lotions. It is well known for manufacturing. In particular, fine emulsions such as O / W type nanoemulsions or microemulsions are of particular interest in cosmetics due to their transparent or slightly translucent embodiments.

For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-110635 discloses a fine emulsion composed of a combination of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester as a surfactant and C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ 2-hydroxy fatty acid. Furthermore, JP-A-11-71256 discloses a fine emulsion constituted by using a combination of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and betaine.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 9-110635 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-71256 European Patent No. 173109 French Patent Application Publication No. 0009609 US Pat. No. 5,463,633 U.S. Pat.No. 5411744 U.S. Pat.No. 4,874,554 U.S. Pat.No. 4,137,180 U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 US Patent No. 2,781,354

Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002 Lee J. et al., “Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property”, Pharmaceutical Research, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2003 Hodgon T.K., Kaler E.W., `` Hydrotropic Solutions '', Current Opinion in Colloid and Interface Science, Vol. 12, pp. 121-128, 2007 Meylan and Howard, Atom / Fragment contribution method for controlling octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84, 83-92, 1995 Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995) http://esc.syrres.com/interkow/kowdemo.htm Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Volume 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53

  However, in some cases it is difficult for the nanoemulsion or microemulsion to have a high viscosity or consistency. This makes it difficult for the emulsion to have shape recovery properties, even if a high viscosity or consistency is achieved, for example by using thickeners. Furthermore, high viscosity emulsions typically have stickiness.

  One object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion with high viscosity or high consistency and shape recovery properties, preferably rapid shape recovery properties, and with as little stickiness as possible. That is.

  Furthermore, when certain nonionic surfactants are used to produce fine emulsions such as nanoemulsions or microemulsions, emulsions that are transparent or slightly translucent, as well as emulsion stability May be impaired.

  Another object of the invention is a nanoemulsion or microemulsion with a transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent emulsion embodiment, even when the nonionic surfactants mentioned above are used. It is to provide a stable cosmetic composition in the form of

The above object of the present invention is to
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.0, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0;
(c) at least one associative polyurethane;
(d) water, and (a) the amount of oil is in the range of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 12% by weight, more preferably 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Can be achieved by cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

  (a) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of plant or animal origin oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Preferably, the (a) oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils that are liquid at room temperature. (a) The oil may be preferably selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

  (b) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can have a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, preferably 3 to 6 glycerols.

  (b) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl caprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl tricaprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, 3 to 6 It is preferably selected from polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing 1 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units.

  (b) The raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from a mixture of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and preferably a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 to 6 glycerol. The mixture preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 to 6 glycerol.

  In one embodiment, (b) the raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is an ester of a fatty acid and a polyglycerol containing 70% or more of a polyglycerol having a polymerization degree of 4 or more, preferably a fatty acid and a polymerization degree of 4 to 11. An ester with polyglycerol containing 60% or more of the intermediate polyglycerol, more preferably an ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol containing 30% or more of the polyglycerol having a polymerization degree of 5 is included.

  The amount of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The mass ratio of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5.

  (c) the associative polyurethane is a copolymer comprising at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block Is preferred.

  The amount of (c) associative polyurethane may be in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) and / or at least one ionic surfactant.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one hydrotrope.

  (c) The hydrotrope may have a log P of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.5 to 0.5 for non-ionic hydrotropes, preferably -0.5 for (acidic) hydrotropes with ionic properties. May be from 5.5 to 5.5.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W type emulsion, wherein (a) the number average particle size of the oil is not more than 300 nm, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm.

  The transparency of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably greater than 50%, more preferably greater than 60%, and even more preferably greater than 70%.

  The invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, wherein the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a skin. And applied to hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, or scalp.

  Furthermore, the present invention is for the body and / or facial skin and / or mucous membrane and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nail. And / or eyelash and / or eyebrows, as a care product or in a care product, and / or as a cleaning product or in a cleaning product and / or makeup It also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention as a product or in a makeup product and / or as a makeup removal product or in a makeup removal product.

  As a result of intensive studies, the inventors have found that cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsions that have high viscosity or consistency and shape recovery properties, preferably rapid shape recovery properties, which are not sticky in some cases. I found it possible to provide things. In addition, the cosmetic composition is stable, transparent or slightly translucent even when using nonionic surfactants that have been difficult to form fine emulsions such as nanoemulsions or microemulsions. Preferably, it may be a transparent embodiment.

Therefore, the present invention
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.0, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0;
(c) at least one associative polyurethane;
(d) including water,
(a) nanoemulsion or microemulsion form wherein the amount of oil ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition It is a cosmetic composition.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be of high viscosity or high consistency, and it can therefore be in the form of, for example, a hard gel. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can avoid or reduce dripping of the composition from the skin or hair, for example, when used by a user.

  On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have shape recovery characteristics. Thus, for example, even when a user removes a portion of the cosmetic composition (eg, cream or gel) in a container from its horizontal surface, the surface can recover to a horizontal state. Shape recovery preferably occurs as quickly as possible.

  Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be less sticky although the composition can have a high viscosity or a high consistency.

  Moreover, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a dispersed phase with a smaller diameter due to the combination of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and a relatively small amount of oil. Thus, the cosmetic composition can be in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion that is transparent or slightly translucent.

  Since the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be transparent or slightly translucent, the composition can preferably be used for lotions and the like. Furthermore, because the dispersed phase is finely dispersed, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide a unique texture, moisturizing and moisturizing feeling, and enhanced flexibility. Moreover, when the dispersed phase is an oil phase and contains one or more lipophilic active ingredients, or further an amphiphilic active ingredient, the dispersed oil phase functions as an active ingredient carrier and is effective. The penetration of the ingredients into the skin can be accelerated or the active ingredient can be distributed over the skin. For example, when the UV filter is present in the dispersed oil phase, the UV filter is evenly applied on the skin, and a good UV filter effect can be exhibited.

  Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition of the present invention will be described in more detail.

[oil]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil. As used herein, “oil” means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 ° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil, what is generally used in cosmetics can be used individually or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

  The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil; polar oil such as vegetable or animal oil and ester oil; or mixtures thereof.

  (a) The oil is preferably selected from the group consisting of plant or animal origin oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

  Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil Oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of animal oils are, for example, squalene and squalane.

  Examples of synthetic oils are ester oils and artificial triglycerides.

Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C _{1 to} C ₂₆ aliphatic, monoacid or polyacid liquid esters, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or A branched, C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic, monoalcohol or polyalcohol liquid ester, wherein the ester has a total of 10 or more carbon atoms.

  Preferably, in the monoalcohol ester, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the ester of the invention is derived is branched.

  Among monoesters of monoacids and monoesters of monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristate (such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate), isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, neopentane Mention may be made of isodecyl acid and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C _{4 to} C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids or C _{4 to} C ₂₂ tricarboxylic acids and C _{1 to} C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids, and non-sugar C _{4 to} C ₂₆ dihydroxy alcohols, Esters with trihydroxy alcohol, tetrahydroxy alcohol or pentahydroxy alcohol can also be used.

  Among others, mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; Diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trioctate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; diheptane Neopentyl glycol acid; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

The ester oil can be used as sugar esters and sugar diesters of C _{6 to} C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids. The term “sugar” is recalled to mean an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least 4 carbon atoms with some alcohol functionality with or without aldehyde or ketone functionality. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

  Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives, such as There are methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

Sugar esters of fatty acids include in particular esters or ester mixtures of the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. You can choose from a group. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

  Esters according to this variant may be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

  These esters include, for example, oleic acid ester, lauric acid ester, palmitic acid ester, myristic acid ester, behenic acid ester, coconut oil fatty acid ester, stearic acid ester, linoleic acid ester, linolenic acid ester, capric acid ester and arachidonic acid. It may also be an ester or a mixture thereof, such as in particular oleopalmitic acid mixed ester, oleostearic acid mixed ester and palmitostearic acid mixed ester.

  More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate. And oleostearic acid esters are used.

  An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methylglucose dioleate.

  Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octoate, octyldodecyl octoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / 2-ethylhexyl caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate , Isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tet (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate) And glyceryl tris (caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

  Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogen polysiloxane, etc .; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl Cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

  These silicone oils may also be organically modified. Organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups bonded via a carbon-hydrogen group. It is.

  Organopolysiloxanes are defined in great detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. These may be volatile or non-volatile.

If they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly selected from:
(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in detail under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Carbide and under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia and sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials There are dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Formulas such as Silicone Volatile (registered trademark) FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide
[Where

Is]
Mention may also be made of cyclopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane etc. Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1. Mention may be made of mixtures with '-bis (2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane.
(ii) A linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of not more than 5 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / sec at 25 ° C. A detailed example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone (now Toray Dow Corning). Silicones belonging to this category are also described in articles published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

  Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes having predominantly trimethylsilyl end groups can be mentioned.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes that may be mentioned without limitation are the following commercial products:
-Silbione® oil 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia, or Mirasil® oil, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000,
-Mirasil® series oil sold by Rhodia,
-200 series oil from Dow Corning, for example DC200 with a viscosity of 60000mm ² / sec,
-Viscasil (R) oil from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

  Mention may also be made, for example, of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups known by the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oil from Rhodia.

Among the silicones having aryl groups are polydiaryl siloxanes, especially polydiphenyl siloxanes and polyalkylaryl siloxanes. Examples that can be mentioned are products sold under the following names:
-70 641 series of Silbione® oil from Rhodia,
-Rhoodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia,
-Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning,
-Bayer's PK series silicone, eg PK20 products,
-Certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, for example SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

  The organically modified liquid silicone may in particular have a polyethyleneoxy group and / or a polypropyleneoxy group. Therefore, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet (registered trademark) L722 oil and L77 oil manufactured by Union Carbide can be mentioned.

The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:
- linear or branched, cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes optionally. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffin, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and
Linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

  Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc .; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; And mixtures thereof.

  The (a) oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils that are liquid at room temperature.

  It is also preferred that the (a) oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

  Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and has one or more short chain hydrocarbons (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and palmitic acid). Ethyl hexyl), hydrocarbon oils having one or more short chain alkyl groups (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), and short chain alcohol type oils such as octyldodecanol.

  The amount of (a) oil in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

[Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 8.0 to 14.0. A single type of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

  (b) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably has a polyglycol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycols, more preferably 3 to 6 glycols, and even more preferably 5 to 6 glycols.

  (b) The HLB value of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 8.0 to 13.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.0, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0. When more than one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is used, its HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

  (b) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, It can be selected from monoesters, diesters and triesters of acids such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

  Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is capric acid PG2, dicapric acid PG2, tricapric acid PG2, caprylic acid PG2, dicaprylic acid PG2, tricaprylic acid PG2, lauric acid PG2, dilauric acid PG2, trilauric acid PG2, myristic acid PG2, dimyristic acid PG2, Trimyristic acid PG2, stearic acid PG2, distearic acid PG2, tristearic acid PG2, isostearic acid PG2, diisostearic acid PG2, triisostearic acid PG2, oleic acid PG2, dioleic acid PG2, trioleic acid PG2, capric acid PG3, dicapric acid PG3, Tricapric acid PG3, Caprylic acid PG3, Dicaprylic acid PG3, Tricaprylic acid PG3, Lauric acid PG3, Dilauric acid PG3, Trilauric acid PG3, Myristic acid PG3, Dimyristic acid PG3, Trimyristic acid PG3, Stearic acid PG3, Distearic acid PG3, tristearic acid PG3, isostearic acid P G3, diisostearic acid PG3, triisostearic acid PG3, oleic acid PG3, dioleic acid PG3, trioleic acid PG3, capric acid PG4, dicapric acid PG4, tricapric acid PG4, caprylic acid PG4, dicaprylic acid PG4, tricaprylic acid PG4, lauric acid PG4, dilauric acid PG4, trilauric acid PG4, myristic acid PG4, dimyristic acid PG4, trimyristic acid PG4, stearic acid PG4, distearic acid PG4, tristearic acid PG4, isostearic acid PG4, diisostearic acid PG4, triisostearic acid PG4, Oleic acid PG4, dioleic acid PG4, trioleic acid PG4, capric acid PG5, dicapric acid PG5, tricapric acid PG5, caprylic acid PG5, dicaprylic acid PG5, tricaprylic acid PG5, lauric acid PG5, dilauric acid PG5, trilauric acid PG5, myristic Acid PG5, dimyristic acid PG5, trimyristic acid PG5, Phosphoric acid PG5, distearic acid PG5, tristearic acid PG5, isostearic acid PG5, diisostearic acid PG5, triisostearic acid PG5, oleic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, trioleic acid PG5, capric acid PG6, dicapric acid PG6, tricapric acid PG6 , Caprylic acid PG6, dicaprylic acid PG6, tricaprylic acid PG6, lauric acid PG6, dilauric acid PG6, trilauric acid PG6, myristic acid PG6, dimyristic acid PG6, trimyristic acid PG6, stearic acid PG6, distearic acid PG6, tristearic acid PG6, isostearic acid PG6, diisostearic acid PG6, triisostearic acid PG6, oleic acid PG6, dioleic acid PG6, trioleic acid PG6, capric acid PG10, dicapric acid PG10, tricapric acid PG10, caprylic acid PG10, dicaprylic acid PG10, tricaprylic acid PG10, lauric acid PG10, dilauric acid PG10, trilla Phosphoric acid PG10, myristic acid PG10, dimyristic acid PG10, trimyristic acid PG10, stearic acid PG10, distearic acid PG10, tristearic acid PG10, isostearic acid PG10, diisostearic acid PG10, triisostearic acid PG10, oleic acid PG10, dioleic acid It can be selected from the group consisting of PG10 and trioleic acid PG10.

(b) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the following:
-Polyglyceryl monolaurate, containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,
-Polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,
-Polyglyceryl monooleate, containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,
-Polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units.

  (b) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl caprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl tricaprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, 3 to 6 It is preferably selected from polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing 1 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units.

  (b) The raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from preferably 3 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 to 6 glycerol, Preferably, it contains at least 30% by mass of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 to 6 glycerol.

  In one embodiment, (b) the raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is an ester of a fatty acid and a polyglycerol containing 70% or more of a polyglycerol having a polymerization degree of 4 or more, preferably a fatty acid and a polymerization degree of 4 to 11. An ester with polyglycerol containing 60% or more of the intermediate polyglycerol, more preferably an ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol containing 30% or more of the polyglycerol having a polymerization degree of 5 or more.

  The amount of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, and is 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably 3 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. It may be in the range of%.

[Associative polyurethane]
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one associative polyurethane. A single type of associative polyurethane may be used, but two or more different types of associative polyurethanes may be used in combination.

  The associative polyurethane may be cationic or nonionic.

  Among the associative polyurethanes, mention may be made of about 20 to 70% by weight of carboxylic acids having α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, from about 20 non-surfactant monomers having α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation. 80% by mass, associative polyurethane derivatives such as those obtained by polymerization of about 0.5 to 60% by mass of a nonionic monourethane which is a reaction product of a monohydroxylated surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

  Similar ones are described in detail in EP 173109 and in more detail in Example 3. More precisely, the polymer is an ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40EO) terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzoyl isocyanate and is a 25% aqueous dispersion. This product is offered by AMERCHOL under the reference number VISCOPHOBE DB1000.

Also suitable are cationic associative polyurethanes, a group of which has been described by the applicant in French patent application 0009609. This is more specifically the general formula (A)
RX- (P) _n- [L- (Y) _m ] _r -L '-(P') _p -X'-R '(A)
(Wherein R and R ′ are the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X ′ are the same or different and carry an amine function that may or may not carry a hydrophobic group. Represents a group having a group or otherwise represents a group L ''; L, L ′ and L ″ are the same or different and represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P ′ are the same Or represents a group having an amine functional group that carries or is not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophobic group; r is between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50; In particular an integer between 1 and 25; n, m and p are independently between 0 and 1000; the molecule has at least one protonated or quaternized amine function And having at least one hydrophobic group.

  In a very advantageous embodiment, the only hydrophobic groups of these polyurethanes are R and R ′ groups at both ends of the chain.

  According to a first preferred embodiment, the associative polyurethane has the formula (A) wherein R and R ′ each independently represent a hydrophobic group, and X and X ′ are each L ′. 'Represents a group, n and p are between 1 and 1000, and L, L', L '', P, P ', Y and m have the meanings shown in formula (A)) To do.

  According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane has the formula (A), wherein R and R ′ each independently represent a hydrophobic group, and X and X ′ are each Represents an L ″ group, n and p are equal to 0, and L, L ′, L ″, Y and m have the meanings in formula (A) shown above).

  The fact that n and p are equal to 0 means that these polymers do not contain units derived from monomers with amine functionality incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation. The protonated amine function of these polyurethanes is the primary formed by the hydrolysis of isocyanate functions, in excess, at the chain ends, and then formed by alkylating agents with hydrophobic groups. Following alkylation of the amine function, ie RQ or R′Q, where R and R ′ are as defined above, Q represents the remaining groups such as halide, sulfate, etc. Type compound.

  In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane has the formula (A), wherein R and R ′ each independently represent a hydrophobic group, and X and X ′ are each independently Both represent groups having a quaternary amine, n and p are equal to zero, and L, L ′, Y and m have the meanings in formula (A) shown above).

  The number average molecular weight of the cationic associative polyurethane is generally between 400 and 500,000 g / mol, in particular between 1000 and 400,000 g / mol, ideally between 1000 and 300,000 g / mol.

  When X and / or X ′ represents a group having a tertiary amine or a quaternary amine, X and / or X ′ are of the formula

(Where
R ₂ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated ring having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, an alkylene group or an arylene group, or one or more carbons The atom can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O, P;
R ₁ and R ₃ are the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, alkenyl group, or aryl group, and at least one of the carbon atoms is N, S, O , And can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from P
A ^- is a physiologically acceptable counterion)
One of the can be represented.

  The groups L, L 'and L' 'are represented by the formula

(Where
Z represents -O-, -S- or NH-
R ₄ represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated ring having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, an alkylene group that is not, an arylene group, and at least one of the carbon atoms Can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O, and P)
Represents a group of

  The groups P and P ′ contain an amine function and have the formula

(Where
R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meaning as R ₂ defined above; R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meaning as R ₁ and R ₃ defined above;
R ₁₀ represents a linear or branched alkylene group, which is optionally unsaturated, having one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P Well,
A ^- is a physiologically acceptable counterion)
At least one of the can be represented.

  With respect to the meaning of Y, the expression hydrophobic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric, water-soluble group. Examples that may be mentioned are ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol when no polymer is included. According to a preferred embodiment, examples of hydrophilic polymers that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, in particular polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide.

  Cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (A) are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functional groups with labile hydrogen. The functional group with labile hydrogen may be an alcohol functional group, a primary or secondary amine functional group, or a thiol functional group, which, after reaction with a diisocyanate functional group, respectively, is a polyurethane. , Producing polyurea and polythiourea. The term “polyurethane” in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethane-specific, polyurea and polythiourea, and copolymers thereof.

  A first type of compound that is a material for the preparation of the polyurethane product of formula (A) is a compound having at least one unit having an amine function. The compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, i.e. in a preferred embodiment the compound comprises, for example, hydroxyl, primary amine function, secondary amine. Has two unstable hydrogen atoms carried by a functional group or a thiol functional group. It is also possible to use a mixture of polyfunctional and bifunctional compounds, where the proportion of polyfunctional compounds is low.

  As indicated above, the compound may have more than one unit with an amine function. This is a polymer that in that case carries repeating units with amine functionality.

Compounds of this type are of the formula: HZ- (P) _n -ZH or HZ- (P ') _p -ZH, where Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above. Can be represented by one of them.

  Examples of compounds having an amine functional group are N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine, and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound from which the polyurethane product of formula (A) is prepared corresponds to the formula O = C = NR ₄ -N = C = O where R ₄ is as defined above Diisocyanate.

  Examples that may be mentioned are methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate, hexane diisocyanate.

  The third compound that is the material for preparation in the polyurethane product of formula (A) is a hydrophobic compound that is intended to form the terminal hydrophobic group of the polymer of formula (A).

  This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group having a labile hydrogen, such as hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functional group.

  As an example, the compound may be a fatty alcohol, for example, in detail stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. If the compound has a polymer chain, this may be, for example, hydroxyl hydrogenated polybutadiene.

  The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (A) can also result from a quaternization reaction of a tertiary amine of a compound having at least one tertiary amine unit. Therefore, the hydrophobic group is introduced by a quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is of the form RQ or R′Q, where R and R ′ are as defined above, Q represents the remaining groups such as halide, sulfate, etc. A compound.

  The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is imparted by a fourth type of compound that is the material for the preparation of the polymer product. This compound may be multifunctional. This is preferably bifunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture, where the proportion of polyfunctional compounds is low.

  Functional groups with labile hydrogen are alcohols, primary or secondary amines, or thiol functional groups. The compound may be a polymer terminated at both ends of the chain by one of these functional groups with labile hydrogen.

  Examples that may be mentioned are ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol when no polymer is included.

  Examples of hydrophilic polymers that may be mentioned are, for example, polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, in particular polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide.

  The hydrophilic group marked Y in formula (A) is optional. Indeed, units containing quaternized or protonated amine functionality may be sufficient for this type of polymer to provide the required solubility or water dispersibility in aqueous solutions. Although the presence of the hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes having such groups are still preferred.

  The associative polyurethane used in the present invention may be nonionic, in particular nonionic polyurethane-polyether. More specifically, the polymers may be in their chains, with hydrophilic sequences that are often polyoxyethylenated in nature, and may be aliphatic bonds alone and / or cycloaliphatic bonds and And / or have both hydrophobic sequences, which may be aromatic bonds.

  Preferably, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, The hydrocarbon chain can be a pendant chain or the terminal chain of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, one or more pendant chains can be included. In addition, the polymer can have hydrocarbon chains at one end of the hydrophilic sequence or at both ends.

  The polyether-polyurethane may be a polyblock, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequence may be at each end of the chain (e.g .: a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or may be distributed at both ends and in the chain (e.g. a polyblock copolymer). . These same polymers may be in the form of graft units or in the form of stars.

  Associative polyurethanes can form a network in water, where the hydrophobic portion binds to the pseudomicelles shown above.

  Thus, associative polyurethanes can increase the viscosity or consistency of the composition according to the invention. Therefore, after application of the composition of the present invention, the associative polyurethane can quickly restore the original elasticity of the composition.

  Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes having fatty chains may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.

  Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes contain urethane bonds between hydrophilic sequences, which is the origin of this name.

  Expanded in its meaning, those whose hydrophilic sequence is bonded to the hydrophobic sequence by other chemical bonds are also included in nonionic polyether-polyurethanes with hydrophobic chains.

  As an example of a non-ionic polyether-polyurethane having a hydrophobic chain that can be used in the present invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® 205 with urea functionality, sold by the company RHEOX. Others include Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM 184®.

Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chains and the product ELFACOS T212® with C ₁₈ alkyl chains from AKZO.

The product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS, which has a C ₂₀ alkyl chain and has a urethane bond, sold with a dry substance content of 20% in water can also be used.

  It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J provided by ROHM & HAAS.

  The polyether-polyurethanes described above that can be used are described in the article of Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993) by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen. You can choose from what you have.

  Even more particularly, according to the invention, at least three compounds: (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, (iii) at least one compound. It is preferred to use polyether-polyurethanes which can be obtained by polycondensation of diisocyanates.

  These polyether-polyurethanes are in particular sold under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® by the company ROHM & HAAS [ACULYN 46® is 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide. Polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) ACULYN 440 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) And 35% by weight in the mixture.]

  According to the invention, the associative polyurethane is preferably selected from the Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by the company Rheox.

  (c) The amount of associative polyurethane is not limited, and may range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

[water]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains water.

  The amount of water is not limited and may be 50 to 90% by weight, preferably 55 to 95% by weight, more preferably 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Additional surfactant]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) and / or at least one additional ionic surfactant. A single type of additional surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of additional surfactant may be used in combination. The ionic surfactant can be selected from a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

(Nonionic surfactant)
The additional nonionic surfactant is not limited as long as it is different from the above (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

  The HLB value of the additional nonionic surfactant may be from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. If more than one additional nonionic surfactant is used, its HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all additional nonionic surfactants.

The (b) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0 may be selected from the following:
(1) silicone surfactant,
(2) Surfactant that is fluid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less (polyethylene glycol containing 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol containing 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polysiloxane containing 2 to 10 glycerol units) an ester of at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerol, of at least one, at least one ester of fatty acids containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain Selected from)
(3) fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixed ester, carboxylic acid and glycerol mixed ester,
(4) fatty acid ester of sugar and fatty alcohol ether of sugar,
(5) a surfactant (selected from glycerol fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters and sorbitan oxyethylated fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters) that is solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, and
(6) A block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B).

  Examples of silicone surfactants that can be used according to the present invention include those disclosed in Patent Documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

  (1) Silicone surfactant as the nonionic surfactant is a compound of formula (I)

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are independently of each other a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group or a group-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ and at least one of the groups R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is not an alkyl group,
R ₄ is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group,
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, except that A and B are not equal to 0 at the same time,
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30,
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5)
It is preferable that it is a compound of these.

  In a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, and y is an integer in the range of 4 to 30.

  Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may be mentioned are those of formula (II)

(Wherein A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that can be mentioned in the same way are those of formula (III)
H- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)
(Where A 'and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

  The compounds of the invention that can be used are those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning. The compounds of DC5329, DC7439-146, and DC2-5695 have the formula (II) (where A is 22, B is 2, y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12.

  The compound of Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) (wherein A ′ is 15 and y is 13).

(2) The surfactant that is fluid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower may be specifically:
-Isoleate of polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 400, sold under the name PEG 400 by Unichema
-Diglyceryl isostearate sold by Solvay,
-Glyceryl laurate containing two glycerol units, sold by Solvay
-Sorbitan oleate sold under the name Span 80 by ICI,
-Sorbitan isostearate sold under the name Nikkol SI 10R by Nikko Chemicals,
-Palm oil fatty acid α-butyl glucoside or capric acid α-butyl glucoside sold by Ulice.

  (3) Fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixed ester, carboxylic acid and glycerol mixed ester can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant, and more specifically, an alkyl chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. You may choose from the group which consists of the mixed ester of the fatty acid or fatty alcohol which has, and the mixed ester of the alpha-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid which have glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The alkyl chain of the fatty acid or fatty alcohol derived from the mixed ester that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention may be linear or branched, and may be saturated or unsaturated. . They are in particular stearates, isostearates, linoleates, oleates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, isostearyl chains, stearyls It can be a chain, linoleyl chain, oleyl chain, behenyl chain, myristyl chain, lauryl chain, capryl chain, or mixtures thereof.

  Examples of mixed esters that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the present invention include glycerol and a mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linolenic acid and oleic acid sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 375. Mixed ester (CTFA name: citric acid / lactic acid / linolenic acid / glyceryl oleate); sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 780K, mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol and glycerol (CTFA name: succinic acid) Isostearyl diglyceryl acid); sold under the name Imwitor 370 by Huls, mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid and glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate stearate); Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30 by Danisco Lactic acid and a mixed ester of stearic acid and glycerol sold under the name (CTFA name: stearic acid milk) It is a glyceryl).

The fatty acid ester of (4) sugar that can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant may be a solid preferably at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, specifically C _{8 to} C ₂₂ fatty acid, sucrose, maltose, ester or ester mixture with Gurukurosu or fructose, and a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of ester or ester mixture of esters of methyl glucose.

The C _{8 to} C ₂₂ or C _{14 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids constituting the ester fat unit, which can be used in the present invention, contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. It contains a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl chain. The fatty units of the ester may in particular be selected from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. . Stearates are preferably used.

  Examples of esters or ester mixtures of fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose are monostearin, such as the products sold by Croda under the names Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160. Acid sucrose, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof; an example of an ester or ester mixture of a fatty acid and methyl glucose is named Tego-care 450 by the company Goldschmidt Methyl glucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate sold by Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl-o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

Can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, (4) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars can be solid at a temperature 45 ° C. or less, in particular, a C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose , ethers or ether mixtures of sucrose or fructose, as well as the C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, may be selected from the group consisting of ethers or ether mixtures of methyl glucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols constituting the ether fat units that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the present invention are 8 to 22 carbon atoms or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. Saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chains having the number of carbon atoms. The ether fat units may in particular be chosen from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, for example cetearyl units. .

  Examples of sugar fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, which are sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200 respectively. Cetostearyl glucoside, which is a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by Goldschmidt, under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and For example, there is arachidyl glucoside in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.

  Further particularly used surfactants are sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate, and alkyl polyglucosides.

  (5) Fatty esters of glycerol that can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactants are solids at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, in particular, having 16 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 to 10 glycerol units It can be selected from the group consisting of esters composed of at least one acid containing a saturated linear alkyl chain. One or more of these fatty esters of glycerol can be used in the present invention.

  These esters may be chosen in particular from stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, arachidic acid esters and palmitic acid esters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferred to use stearates and palmitates.

  Examples of surfactants that can be used in the present invention include decaglyceryl monostearate, decaglyceryl distearate, decaglyceryl tristearate, and decaglyceryl pentastearate (CTFA names: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate). , Polyglyceryl tristearate-10, polyglyceryl pentastearate-10), for example, Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S, 2-S, 3-S and There is a 5-S product, and diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-2 stearate) such as a product sold by Nikko Chemicals under the name Nikkol DGMS can be mentioned.

(5) The fatty acid ester of sorbitan that can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant is a solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, C _{16 to} C ₂₂ fatty acid ester of sorbitan, and oxyethylenated C ₁₆ to C of sorbitan _It may be selected from the group consisting of ₂₂ fatty acid esters. They are composed of at least one fatty acid containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated ester generally contains 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, and preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

  These esters may be chosen in particular from stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, arachidic acid esters and palmitic acid esters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferred to use stearates and palmitates.

  Examples of the above-mentioned nonionic surfactants that can be used in the present invention include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold under the name Span 60 by ICI, and Span 40 by ICI. Examples include sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 64) sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI.

  The (5) ethoxylated fatty ether that can be used as the nonionic surfactant and is solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less preferably contains 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and 16 to 22 carbon atoms. An ether composed of at least one fatty alcohol chain. The fatty chain of the ether may in particular be selected from behen, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl units. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned include behenyl alcohol ethers containing 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units, such as products sold by Nikko Chemicals under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20 and BB30. (CTFA names: behenez-5, behenez-10, behenez-20, behenez-30), and products sold under the name Brij 72 by ICI, stearyl alcohol ethers containing two ethylene oxide units ( CTFA name: Steareth-2).

  The (5) ethoxylated fatty ester that can be used as the nonionic surfactant and is a solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, is at least 1 having 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and 16 to 22 carbon atoms. An ester composed of two fatty acid chains. In particular, the fatty chain in the ester may be selected from units of stearic acid ester, behenic acid ester, arachidic acid ester and palmitic acid ester, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned are esters of stearic acid containing 40 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), for example the product sold under the name Myrj 52 by ICI. And behenate esters containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as a product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

Block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) that can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsions according to the invention are in particular represented by the formula (IV)
HO (C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _z H (IV)
[Wherein x, y and z are integers such that x + z is in the range of 2 to 100 and y is in the range of 14 to 60]
More particularly, from the block copolymers of formula (IV), the HLB can be selected from the range of 8.0 to 14.0.

(Cationic surfactant)
The cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Also good.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
Formula (I)

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and contain 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. It is selected from linear and branched aliphatic group, the aliphatic groups, for example an alkyl group, alkoxy group, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂₎ alkylamido ( C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate and hydroxyalkyl groups; and may be selected from aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; X ⁻ is a halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, selected from (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkyl sulfate and alkyl sulfonate ion or an alkyl aryl sulfonate ion)
Have
The quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, for example the formula (II)

(Where
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen groups, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₇ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
X ^- is selected from halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, alkyl sulfate ion, alkyl sulfonate ion and alkyl aryl sulfonate ion)
Have In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixed group selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, and R ₇ is methyl. And R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and quaternium-83 sold by Witco under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. (CTFA 1997).
Formula (III)

(Where
R ₉ is selected from aliphatic groups containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is selected from a hydrogen or alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group (R _16a ) (R _17a ) (R _18a ) N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ ;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from a hydrogen group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an alkyl group. ,
X ^- is selected from halide ion, acetate ion, phosphate ion, nitrate ion, ethylsulfonate ion and methylsulfonate ion)
Diquaternary ammonium salt. Examples of such diquaternary ammonium salts are FINNETT CT-P (Quotanium-89) from FINETEX or FINQUAT CT (Quotanium-75) from FINETEX.
A quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester function, for example of formula (IV)

(Where
R ₂₂ is selected from a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group, and a C _{1 to} C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group and a dihydroxyalkyl group,
R ₂₃ is a group,

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is a group,

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t;
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex organic and inorganic anions, where the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, provided that when x is 0, R ₂₃ represents R ₂₇ (However, when z is 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ )
Have R ₂₂ may be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from straight chain alkyl groups. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, and a dihydroxypropyl group, for example, a methyl group and an ethyl group. In one embodiment, the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₇ it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. May be. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R _24, R ₂₆ and R _28, which may be the same or different and linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C ₁₁ ~ Selected from C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl groups and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ may be selected from halide ions such as, for example, chloride ion, bromide ion and iodide ion; and may be selected from C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl sulfate ions such as methyl sulfate ion. . However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate and anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and any other compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups Is an other non-limiting example of an anion that may be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride ion and methylsulfate ion.

In another embodiment, the formula (IV)
(Wherein R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group and an ethyl group;
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s and t are equal to 2,
R ₂₃ is a group,

Methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is a group,

And hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, straight chain and branched, selected from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated and unsaturated)
The ammonium salt of can be used.

  In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon group is linear.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methyl. Sulfate, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride and methylsulfuric acid There are salts and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products are, for example, optionally oxyalkylenated, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine into fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. It can be obtained by direct esterification or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent, such as alkyl halides such as methyl halide and ethyl halide; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate; Methyl acid; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

  Such compounds are, for example, named Dehyquart (registered trademark) by Cognis, Stepanquat (registered trademark) by Stepan, Noxamium (registered trademark) by Ceca, and Rewoquat (Rewoquat (registered trademark) by Rewo-Goldschmidt. (Registered trademark) WE 18 ”.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include the ammonium salts described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180 containing at least one ester functional group. Can be mentioned.

  Among the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the composition according to the invention, the compounds corresponding to formula (I), such as, for example, tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and alkyl, are not limited thereto. Trimethylammonium chloride (wherein the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium And stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name “Ceraphyl® 70” by the company Van Dyk.

  According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition of the present invention is selected from quaternary ammonium salts, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium- 83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

(Anionic surfactant)
The anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactants include in particular anionic derivatives of vegetable origin proteins or silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers. It may be selected from sulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, alkylsulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof.

1) Anionic derivatives of vegetable origin proteins are protein hydrolysates containing hydrophobic groups, said hydrophobic groups being naturally present in the protein, or of the protein and / or protein The hydrolyzate can be added by reaction with a hydrophobic compound. The protein is of vegetable origin or silk and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may be made in more detail of apple protein hydrolysates, wheat protein hydrolysates, soy protein hydrolysates or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Anionic derivatives of vegetable origin proteins and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium salt, a potassium salt and / or an ammonium salt.

  Therefore, examples of protein hydrolysates containing hydrophobic groups are silk proteins whose proteins have been modified with lauric acid, such as products sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken Fine Chemicals. Protein hydrolyzate salt; potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name: Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acid Potassium) and sodium salt sold under the name Proteol LW 30 by Seppic ( A protein hydrolyzate salt, such as CTFA name: Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acid Sodium), which is a wheat protein whose protein has been modified with lauric acid; a sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: Lauroyl oat amino acid sodium) and other proteins with 10 to 22 charcoal Protein hydrolyzate salts, which are oat proteins containing an alkyl chain with atoms, and especially protein hydrolyzate salts, wherein the protein is an oat protein modified with lauric acid; or by Proteol APL by Seppic There is a salt of an apple protein hydrolyzate containing an alkyl chain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (CTFA name: cocoyl apple amino acid sodium) sold under the name (30% aqueous / glycol solution). Mention may also be made of Lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine), neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate, sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 by CTPIC (CTFA name: sodium cocoylamino acid). , Alanine).

2) As phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for example, lauryl monophosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, Crafol AP-31 (by Cognis) Potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate as a mixture of monoesters and diesters (mainly diesters) sold under the name (registered trademark), phosphoric acid sold under the name Crafol AP-20 (registered trademark) by Cognis Mixture of octyl monoester and diester, ethoxylated (7 mol EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester sold by Condea under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® a mixture of the order by the company Uniqema number Arlatone MAP 230K-40 (R) and Arlatone MAP 230T-60 sold as (R), mono (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃₎ alkyl phosphate Lithium salt or triethanolamine salt, potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99 / 09 (registered trademark) by Rhodia Chimie, and sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema Monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as potassium cetyl phosphate.

3) Examples of carboxylate salts include the following:
An amide ether carboxylate (AEC), for example sodium lauryl amide ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals,
-Polyoxyethylenated carboxylates, e.g. sodium oxyethylenated (6 EO) lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C ₁₂ ~ sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals _{C 14 ~C 16), Biologia E} Tecnologia by the company Olivem 400 (registered trademark) sold under the name, polyoxyethylenated fatty acids and carboxymethylated fatty olive oil origin, or by Nikko Chemicals Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX Oxyethylenated (6 EO) tridecyl ether sodium carboxylate sold under the name (registered trademark), and
-Salts of fatty acids with C ₆ to C ₂₂ alkyl chains neutralized with organic or inorganic bases (soap), such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and Arginine.

4) Specific examples of amino acid derivatives of alkali salts of amino acids include the following:
-Sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or Oramix L30® by SEPPIC, Nikkol Sarcosinate MN (by Nikko Chemicals) (Registered trademark) sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN (registered trademark) by Nikko Chemicals,
-Alanate salts, such as N-lauroyl-N-methylamide pro, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 (registered trademark) by Nikko Chemicals or Alanone ALE (registered trademark) by Kawaken Fine Chemicals Sodium pinate or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine sold under the name Alanone ALTA (registered trademark) by Kawaken Fine Chemicals,
-Glutamate, for example, monoethanol coil triethanolamine sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12 (registered trademark) by Ajinomoto Co., Inc., sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 (registered trademark) by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. Lauroylglutamate triethanolamine,
An aspartate, for example a mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate triethanolamine and N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi Chemical;
A glycine derivative (glycinate), e.g. sodium N-cocoylglycinate sold under the name Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
-Citrate salts, such as the citric acid monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohol sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt,
-Galacturonic acid salts such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate sold by Soliance.

5) Sulfosuccinates can be mentioned, for example, by oxyethylation (3 EO) sold under the names Setacin 103 Special (registered trademark) and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4 (registered trademark) by Witco. Lauryl (70/30 C ₁₂ / C ₁₄ ) alcohol monosulfosuccinate, a hemisulfosuccinate of C _{12 to} C ₁₄ alcohol sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz Disodium salt, oxyethylenated (2EO) disodium oleamide sulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo Oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco Disodium salt of Tomonosu Le phosphate succinate or there is Rewoderm S 1333 (R) ricinoleic acid sold under the name monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate by Witco Corporation. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinate may be utilized, for example disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.

6) Alkyl sulfates can include, for example, lauryl sulfate triethanolamine, such as a product sold under the name Empicol TL40 FL by Huntsman or a product sold under the name Texapon T42 by Cognis. (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulfate) and these products are 40% aqueous solutions. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate) such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is a 30% aqueous solution.

7) Examples of alkyl ether sulfates include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulfate) such as those sold by Cognis under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP, or Ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulfate) such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.

8) Examples of sulfonates include α-olefin sulfonates, which are named Bio-Terge AS-40 (registered trademark) by Stepan, Witconate AOS Protege (registered trademark) and Sulframine by Witco. under the name AOS PH 12 (TM), Bio-Terge AS-40 CG ( registered trademark) sold under the name α- olefin sodium sulfonate by _{Stepan (C 14 ~C 16),} Hostapur SAS 30 by Clariant Secondary sodium olefinsulphonate sold under the name (registered trademark); or sold by Manro under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® Sodium xylene sulfonate.

9) What can be mentioned as isetinate is acyl isethinate, for example sodium cocoyl isethionate such as the product sold by Jordan under the name Jordapon CI P®.

10) The taurate can be listed as palm salt oil methyl taurate sodium salt sold by Clariant under the name Hostapon CT Pate®; N-acyl N-methyl taurate N-cocoyl-N-methyl taurate sodium sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by, for example, Clariant, or Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikko Chemicals, Alternatively, it is sodium palmitoylmethyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT (registered trademark) by Nikko Chemicals.

11) The anionic derivative of the alkyl polyglucoside can in particular be a glycerol ether obtained from citrate, tartrate, sulfosuccinate, carboxylate and alkylpolyglucoside. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglycoside (1,4) tartrate sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, Essai 512 MP® by Seppic. The disodium salt of cocoyl polyglycoside (1,4) sulfosuccinate sold under the name or the cocoyl polyglycoside (1,4) citrate sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia It is a sodium salt of an acid ester.

  The amino acid derivative is preferably an acyl glycine derivative or a glycine derivative, particularly an acyl glycine salt.

  The acyl glycine derivative or glycine derivative can be selected from an acyl glycine salt (or acyl glycinate) or a glycine salt (or glycinate), and in particular, can be selected from the following:

i) Formula (I)
R-HNCH ₂ COOX (I)
(Where
R represents an acyl group R′C═O, wherein R ′ is preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, Better represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms,
-X represents a cation selected from, for example, an alkali metal ion (Na, Li, K, etc., preferably Na or K), an alkaline earth metal ion (Mg, an ammonium group, and a mixture thereof) )
Acyl glycinate.

  The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the groups lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably R is a cocoyl group.

ii) Formula (II)

(Where
R ₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still 16 to 20 carbon atoms Represents a hydrocarbon chain; R ₁ is advantageously selected from lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from stearyl, oleyl groups;
-R ₂ groups are identical or different and represent an R''OH group, where R '' is an alkyl group containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 5 carbon atoms)
Of glycinate.

  Examples of the compound of formula (I) include compounds having an INCI name of sodium cocoylglycinate, such as Amilite GCS-12 sold by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. and having an INCI name of potassium cocoylglycinate There are compounds such as Amilite GCK-12 manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

  As the compound of the formula (II), those of dihydroxyethyl oleyl glycinate or those of dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate can be used.

(Amphoteric surfactant)
The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric or zwitterionic ionic surfactants are, for example (non-limiting list), aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, among which The aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain and contains an anionic group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and solubilized in at least one water (e.g., carboxylate ion, sulfonate ion, sulfate ion). Ion, phosphate ion or phosphonate ion).

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of products sold under the name Miranol, which are described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982. Classified by the names amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), the structures of each are as follows:
^{_{R 1 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N +}} (R 2) (R 3) (CH 2 COO -),
(Where
R ₁ represents an alkyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
R ₂ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group)
as well as
R ₁ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C).
(Where
B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
C is - represents (CH _{2) z-} Y ', where z = 1 or 2,
X ′ represents a —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH group, —CH ₂ —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOZ ′ or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ represents —COOH, —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ Z ′ or CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ H group,
Z ′ represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion such as a sodium ion, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
R ₁ 'is an acid R ₁ present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil' alkyl group -COOH, for example C _7, C _9, C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, C ₁₇ alkyl group and isotypes thereof Or represents an unsaturated C ₁₇ group).

Amphoteric surfactants, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Arukiruanho monoacetate salt, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Arukiruanho diacetate, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylamphoacetates mono propionate, and, (C Preferably it is selected from ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamphodipropionates.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in disodium cocoamphophonate, disodium lauroamphofoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate , Caprylamfodipropionic acid disodium, caprylamphodipropionic acid disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M condensate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

  Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant may be betaine.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactant, preferably, alkyl betaines, alkyl amido alkyl betaines, sulfobetaine, from phosphobetaines and alkyl amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, in particular, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl betaines, (C ₈ ~ C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylbetaine, sulfobetaine, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaine. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamides (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl sulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines. It is.

  Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include, alone or as a mixture, in the CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocoamidopropylbetaine, Compounds classified under the names palmitoamidopropyl betaine, stearamide propyl betaine, cocoamidoethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultain, oleamido propyl hydroxy sultain, coco hydroxy sultain, lauryl hydroxy sultain and coco sultain There is.

  Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine.

  The amount of additional surfactant may be 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.10% to 10% by weight, more preferably 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

(Polyol)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

  The term “polyol” as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include monosaccharides or derivatives thereof. Monosaccharide derivatives include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a monosaccharide, as well as one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more hydroxy groups, alkyl groups, hydroxy Examples thereof include monosaccharides or sugar alcohols having or substituted with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

Polyols, at least two hydroxy groups, preferably C ₂ -C ₁₂ polyol comprising from 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, preferably may be a C _{2 to 9} polyol.

  The polyol may be a natural polyol or a synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

  The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycol and its derivatives. The polyol is a group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,5-pentanediol. May be selected.

  The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, for example from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Hydrotrope]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrotrope. A single type of hydrotrope may be used, but two or more different types of hydrotropes may be used in combination.

  Hydrotropes (or hydrotropes) are another class of compounds characterized by their aliphatic molecular structure and their ability to dramatically improve the solubility of poorly soluble organic molecules. Many hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed in the table below. Hydrotropes are very similar to surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, but are amphiphilic because of their small hydrophobic units and relatively short alkyl chains. Distinct as another class of sex substances.

  Common hydrotrope molecules include: 1,3-sodium benzene disulfate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyrimidinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, caffeine, p-toluenesulfone Acid sodium, sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N, N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol , Butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3,5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylene sulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxer hydrochloride , Sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N, N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide and isoniazid. Hydrotropes are described in Lee J. et al., `` Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property '', Pharmaceutical Research, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2003; and Hodgon TK, Kaler EW, `` Hydrotropic Solutions '', Current Opinion in Colloid and Interface Science, Vol. 12, pp. 121-128, 2007.

  A cosmetically acceptable hydrotrope is a preferred hydrotrope that can be used in a cosmetic composition. Hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, but cosmetic applications are limited due to safety regulations and drug resistance regulations. Preferred hydrotropes in cosmetics are as listed below:

  The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions should be determined using tests and bioavailability methods known in the art to determine the effect of compounds on the skin. Can do.

  An advantage of using a hydrotrope is that once a stable solution is obtained, additional diluents do not affect the stability of the solution. This is very different from organic solvents commonly used to improve the water solubility of the active. Typically, aqueous dilutions of organic solvents and dissolved actives cause crystallization or precipitation.

  (c) The hydrotrope preferably has a log P of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.5 to 0.5 for nonionic hydrotropes, and preferably -0.5 to 5.5 for ionic hydrotropes such as acidic type. It is.

  Formulations can be used to adjust the pH so that the transparency of the hydrotrope reaches an optimal state.

  The log P value is the base 10 logarithmic value of the apparent partition coefficient, octan-1-ol / water. The log P value is known and is measured by standard tests that measure the concentration of the compound in octan-1-ol and water. The log P value is calculated according to the method described in Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for controlling octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84, 83-92, 1995 article. May be. This value may be calculated using a number of commercially available software packages, which measure log P as a function of molecular structure. An example is the Epiwin software from the US Environmental Agency.

  This value may be calculated using, inter alia, ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; this value is also used in Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995) Can also be obtained from Some internet sites provide calculated values (address: http://esc.syrres.com/interkow/kowdemo.htm).

  The hydrotrope is preferably selected from the group consisting of a whitening agent, an anti-aging agent, a UV filter, a keratolytic agent and an antibacterial agent.

  Examples of anti-aging agents include humectants, free radical scavengers, keratolytic agents, vitamins, anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents, protides, fatty acid derivatives, steroids, trace elements, bleach, algae and Plankton extracts, sunscreens, enzymes and coenzymes, flavonoids and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

  Hydrotropes are oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, preferably niacinamide, xanthine base, preferably caffeine, camphor, benzalkonium methosulphate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethylrutidic acid, terephthalic acid. Phthalylidene camphorsulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenylethylresorcinol, plasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, It is preferably selected from the group consisting of capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate. Vitamin B3 and its derivatives, caffeine and jasmonic acid derivatives which are described in more detail below are more preferred.

(Vitamin B3 and its derivatives)
Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, has the formula

Wherein R is -CONH ₂ (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH ₂ OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH ₂ -COOH (nicotine uric acid) or CO- NH-OH (nicotinyl hydroxamic acid), niacinamide is preferred]
It is this compound.

Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen group of -CONH ₂ , products from the reaction of carboxylic acids with amino acids, nicotinyl There are esters of alcohols and carboxylic acids (such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolide acid or palmitic acid).

  The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, N-dimethylnicotinamide, N- (hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, Quinolic imide, nicotine anilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, niaramide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, nicotine Methyl acid and sodium nicotinate.

  Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include their inorganic salts, such as chloride, bromide, iodide or carbonate, and their organic salts, such as those obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, Examples include salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, and tartrate.

(Xanthine base)
Among the xanthine bases that can be used according to the present invention, the following can be mentioned: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acephylline, xanthinol nicotinate, diniprofylline, diprofylline, etamiphilin and its derivatives, etophylline, proxyphylline, Pentophylline, propentofylline, pyridophylline and bamiphylline, this list is not limited

  The xanthine base is preferably selected from the group consisting of caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acephilin, and mixtures thereof. These xanthine bases are known as inhibitors of phosphodiesterase, which are enzymes that influence the degradation of cAMP. By increasing the intracellular content of cAMP, these xanthine bases promote lipolytic activity and therefore constitute a primary slimming active agent.

  Examples of plant extracts with xanthine bases include, in detail, black tea extract, coffee extract, guarana extract, paraguay black tea extract, cola extract, this enumeration is limited Not.

(Jasmonic acid derivative)
The jasmonic acid derivative has the formula

Wherein R ₁ represents a COOR ₃ group, wherein R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom, or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydrogen groups; R ₂ Represents a straight-chain having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 3 to 18 carbon atoms)
As well as their optical isomers and the corresponding salts.

Preferably, R ₁ is -COOH, -COOMe (Me: methyl group), -COO-CH ₂ -CH ₃ , -COO-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH, -COOCH ₂ -CH _2- A group selected from CH ₂ OH or COOCH ₂ —CH (OH) —CH ₃ is shown. Preferably R ₁ represents a —COOH group.

Preferably R ₂ represents a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon group preferably having 2 to 2 carbon atoms. Specifically, R ₂ can be a pentyl group, a pentenyl group, a hexyl group, or a heptyl group.

  In one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from 3-hydroxy-2-[(2Z) -2-pentenyl] cyclopentaneacetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid, preferably 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid.

The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are in particular alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium, magnesium or strontium salts; metal salts, such as zinc salts, aluminum Salts, manganese salts or copper salts; ammonium salts of formula NH ₄ ⁺ ; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts such as methylamine salts, dimethylamine salts, trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, ethylamine salts, 2-hydroxyethylamine salts, Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salt or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salt or the like; or lysine salt or arginine salt. A salt selected from sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, strontium salt, copper salt, manganese salt or zinc salt is preferably used.

  The following compounds are preferably used as the jasmonic acid derivative.

  The amount of hydrotrope is not limited and may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Other materials]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain other effective amounts of materials that have been known elsewhere in whitening compositions or coloring compositions, for example, various common adjuvants, EDTA And sequestering agents such as etidronic acid, UV blockers, silicones other than those mentioned above (such as those having an amine group), preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, such as panthenol, opacifying agents, perfumes, Plant extracts, cationic polymers and the like.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Therefore, the organic solvent is preferably miscible with water. Mention may be made, as organic solvent, for example, C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; is and mixtures thereof; similar products.

  The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount in the range of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Manufacturing and properties]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be produced by mixing the above essential and optional materials according to the methods of the prior art. As a prior art method, mixing (high energy process) using a high-pressure homogenizer can be mentioned. As an alternative, the cosmetic composition can be produced by a low energy process such as phase inversion temperature method (PIT), phase inversion concentration method (PIC), automatic emulsification.

  The mass ratio of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5. Specifically, the mass ratio of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (a) oil is preferably 1 or less, such as 0.3 to 1, preferably 0.4 to 1, and more preferably 0.5 to 1.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

  A “microemulsion” can be defined in two ways: broad and narrow. That is, in some cases ("narrowly defined microemulsions"), microemulsions are thermodynamically stable isotropic singles having a three-component system with three components: an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant. Refers to the liquid phase; in other cases (`` broadly defined microemulsions ''), microemulsions are transparent or translucent due to smaller particle sizes in typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems. In addition, an emulsion that exhibits a unique appearance is included (Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). “Microemulsion” as used herein refers to a “narrow microemulsion”, ie, a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.

  The microemulsion is either an O / W type (oil-in-water type) microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by micelles, or a W / O type (water-in-oil type) microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles It refers to one state or a co-continuous microemulsion in which the number of surfactant molecules associated is infinite so that both the liquid phase and the oil phase have a continuous structure.

  The microemulsion may be a dispersed phase having a number average diameter measured by a laser particle size meter of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, more preferably 20 nm or less.

  “Nanoemulsion” as used herein means an emulsion characterized in that it is a dispersed phase with a dimension of less than 350 nm, said dispersed phase optionally having a lamellar shape at the dispersed / continuous phase interface. It is stabilized by (b) a crown of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester capable of forming a liquid crystal phase. In the absence of a specific opacifier, the transparency of the nanoemulsion arises from a small dimension of the dispersed phase, which is obtained for the use of mechanical energy, especially for the use of high pressure homogenizers. .

  Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically, a microemulsion is a thermodynamically stable dispersion composed, for example, of (a) micelles of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters swollen with oil. Moreover, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy for production.

  The microemulsion may be a dispersed phase having a number average diameter as measured with a laser particle size meter of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, more preferably 100 nm or less.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W nanoemulsion or microemulsion, a W / O nanoemulsion or microemulsion, or a co-continuous emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, and (a) the number average particle size of the oil is 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm, more preferably 20 nm to 140 nm. The form is preferred.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

  The transparency can be measured by measuring the transmittance in the visible region with an absorption spectrometer (for example, Lambda 14 spectrometer manufactured by Perkin Elmer, or UV2101 PC spectrometer manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation). The measurement is performed on the undiluted composition. Blinds are measured using distilled water.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably has a transparency of more than 50%, preferably more than 60%, more preferably more than 70%.

[Method and use]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin, the hair, the mucous membrane, the nails, the eyelashes by applying it to the skin, to the hair, to the mucous membranes, to the nails, to the eyelashes, to the eyebrows or to the scalp. The eyebrows and / or can be used in non-therapeutic methods such as cosmetic methods to care for the scalp.

  The invention also provides a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the body and / or for facial skin and / or for mucosa and / or for the scalp and / or for hair. And / or for nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, as a care product or in a care product, and / or as a cleaning product or in a cleaning product, And / or the use as a makeup product or in a makeup product and / or as a makeup removal product or in a makeup removal product.

  In other words, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as it is as the product. Otherwise, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used as one element of the above products. For example, a cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to make up the product described above.

  Care products may be lotions, creams, hair tonics, care conditioners, sunscreens and the like. The cleaning product may be a shampoo, face wash, hand wash and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, blusher, eye shadow, nail polish and the like. The makeup removal product may be a makeup cleansing agent or the like.

(Example)
The invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

(Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1)
The following cosmetic compositions in the form of transparent O / W emulsions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows: A and B were heated separately at 70 to 75 ° C. under stirring. After the components in each phase were completely dissolved, both were mixed and cooled to room temperature to obtain an emulsion. Phases C and D, E were then introduced into the mixture in turn under stirring. The numerical values of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “mass%” as an active raw material.

(Viscosity measurement)
The viscosity of each composition according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1 was measured at 25 ° C. using a B-type viscometer and at 12 rpm according to measurement standard No. 3. Table 2 shows the viscosity data of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1.

  As is apparent from the above results, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were found to have high viscosity. It was also found that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 had sufficient consistency and exhibited rheology as a hard gel, while the composition according to Comparative Example 1 had insufficient consistency and exhibited rheology as a liquid.

(Shape recovery test)
The shape recovery characteristics were measured according to the texture meter analysis method. 70 g each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1 were filled into the container at the open top. An applicator in the shape of a cone (40 ′ conical Perspex Part, code number P / 40C) was pressed against the surface of each composition with a force of 0.01 g at a speed of 20 mm / sec. The applicator was further placed in the composition at a distance of 15 mm from the surface of the composition. Next, the applicator was pulled up at a speed of 40 mm / sec and removed from the composition.

  First, after removing the applicator, it was first observed as a “first check” whether the conical shape of the applicator was retained in the composition.

  Second, if the conical shape of the applicator was retained in the composition after the applicator was removed, the time taken for the conical shape to disappear was recorded as the “shape recovery time”.

  The results are shown in Table 3.

  As is apparent from the above results, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were found to have the ability to recover shape. The composition according to Example 1 was also found to have rapid shape recovery properties. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not retain the shape of the conical applicator.

(Sensory test)
The stickiness of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Example 1 was evaluated by a sensory test with three panelists. 0.15 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to the upper arm of each panelist. Stickiness immediately after application was evaluated according to a score of 3 levels (level 1: low, level 2: intermediate, level 3: high). The scores were averaged. The results are shown in Table 4.

  As is clear from the above results, the composition according to Example 1 was found to be less sticky than the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 1.

  Therefore, based on the results of all the above measurements and tests, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were found to have both high viscosity (or high consistency) and excellent shape recovery properties. In particular, the composition according to Example 1 is highly viscous, has rapid shape recovery properties and is not sticky, and is therefore most preferred.

Claims (20)

(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.0, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0;
(c) at least one associative polyurethane;
(d) water, and (a) the amount of oil ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsions.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) the oil is selected from the group consisting of plant or animal origin oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils in a liquid form at room temperature.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (a) the oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol, preferably 3 to 6 glycerol.   Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl caprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl tricaprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, 3 to 6 glycerol The polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1.   (b) The raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 to 6 glycerol, and the mixture is preferably 5 The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least 30% by mass of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a polyglyceryl moiety composed of six glycerins.   (b) The raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is an ester of a fatty acid and a polyglycerin containing 70% or more of a polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 4 or more, preferably a fatty acid and a polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 4 to 11 An ester with a polyglycerol containing 60% or more, more preferably an ester with a fatty acid and a polyglycerol containing 30% or more of a polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of 5. Cosmetic composition.   (b) The amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition as described in any one of these.   The cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the mass ratio of (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to (a) oil is 0.3 to 6, preferably 0.4 to 3, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5. Composition.   (c) the associative polyurethane is a copolymer comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, comprising at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains separated by a hydrophilic block; The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.   The amount of (c) associative polyurethane ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition as described in any one of these.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant different from (b) and / or at least one ionic surfactant. object.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising at least one polyol.   15. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising at least one hydrotrope.   (c) the hydrotrope has a log P of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.5 to 0.5 for nonionic hydrotropes, preferably -0.5 to 5.5 for (acidic) hydrotropes with ionic properties 16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein   The form of an O / W emulsion, wherein (a) the oil is in the form of droplets having a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm. Cosmetic composition.   18. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the transparency is greater than 50%, preferably greater than 60%, more preferably greater than 70%.   19. A non-therapeutic method for caring for skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, and / or scalp, comprising the cosmetic according to any one of claims 1-18. Non-therapeutic method characterized in that the composition is applied to the skin, to the hair, to the mucosa, to the nails, to the eyelashes, to the eyebrows or to the scalp.   Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, for the body and / or for facial skin and / or for mucous membranes and / or for the scalp. And / or hair and / or nail and / or eyelash and / or eyebrows, as a care product or in a care product and / or a cleaning product Or in a cleaning product and / or as a makeup product or in a makeup product and / or as a makeup removal product or in a makeup removal product.