JP2006282588A - Bilayer-type bleaching cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a bilayer-type bleaching cosmetic having high bleaching effects, providing excellent fresh feeling, compatibility with the skin and pliancy of the skin after coating when being used, and having excellent aesthetic properties of appearance separated to two layers of a transparent upper layer and a gel-shaped lower layer when being stood still, and good redispersibility and preservation stability. <P>SOLUTION: The bilayer-type bleaching cosmetic is obtained by formulating (a) a bleaching agent, (b) a sucrose γ-linoleate which is an ester compound of sucrose and γ-linolenic acid, and in which the proportion of the compounds having ≥2 substitution degree of the hydroxy groups with acyl groups per sugar unit is 40-95%, (c) one or more kinds selected from a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant and a phospholipid, and (d) water. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a two-layer whitening cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention has a high whitening effect by blending a whitening agent, an ester of a specific sucrose and γ-linolenic acid, a specific surfactant and water. It has excellent aesthetics that separates it into two layers: a transparent upper layer and a gel-like lower layer when it is left to stand. In addition, the present invention relates to a two-layer whitening cosmetic composition having good storage stability.

Conventionally, it is well known that a whitening cosmetic compounded with a whitening agent is used for the purpose of making stains, buckwheat etc. inconspicuous and whitening the skin color, and there are many such as L-ascorbic acid or its derivatives, arbutin Whitening agents are widely known. In addition, it has been studied that a fatty acid containing an unsaturated bond has a whitening effect, and it is also known that a whitening effect is further improved by using this in combination with other whitening components (for example, patents). References 1 and 2).
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-001423 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 05-194176

However, when a large amount of unsaturated fatty acid is blended in order to enhance the whitening effect, the emulsion stability is impaired, and when a large amount of surfactant is blended to improve this, there are cases in which the familiarity with the skin is deteriorated. In addition, when a water-soluble polymer is used in combination to ensure stability, the fresh feel may be impaired.
On the other hand, there are various types of cosmetic preparations such as solid, cream, liquid, and gel, but whitening cosmetics are often used in spring and summer with a lot of ultraviolet rays and strong sunlight. It is generally desired to have a refreshing and fresh feeling while preventing and recovering from skin dryness and damage caused by UV irradiation. However, it is a contradiction to prevent and compensate for the fresh feeling of use and the dryness and damage of the skin, and its realization has been very difficult.

  In such a situation, in order to develop a fresh cosmetic that can withstand usability while blending a large amount of an unsaturated fatty acid component, the present inventor has conducted extensive research, and as a result, specific L-ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof, A whitening agent such as arbutin, an ester of a specific sucrose and γ-linolenic acid, one or more selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants or phospholipids, and water. By blending, the whitening effect is also high, it has a fresh feel, familiar skin, and softness of the skin, and upon standing, an upper layer of a colorless and transparent aqueous layer and a gel-like lower layer containing the component (b) The present inventors have found that a two-layer whitening cosmetic composition having excellent aesthetics of appearance separated into two layers and having good redispersibility and storage stability can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention provides the following components (a) to (d):
(A) Whitening agent (b) Sucrose which is an esterified product of sucrose and γ-linolenic acid, and the ratio of acyl group substitution of the hydroxyl group is 2 or more per saccharide unit is 40 to 95% γ-Linolenic acid ester (c) One or two or more types selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants or phospholipids (d) Water blending, characterized in that it contains two layers It provides cosmetics.

The two-layer whitening cosmetic of the present invention has a high whitening effect, a fresh feel and good skin fit, excellent skin softness, and when left standing, an upper layer of a colorless and transparent water layer and a gel-like lower layer. It is separated into two layers, excellent in appearance aesthetics, and good in redispersibility and storage stability.

The configuration of the present invention will be described below.
The whitening agent of component (a) used in the present invention is blended for the expression of whitening effect. If it is usually used in cosmetics and has whitening effect, its origin, production method, action mechanism, etc. However, water-soluble L-ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, and salts thereof, arbutin and derivatives thereof are preferable from the viewpoint of high whitening effect, safety, and stability.
L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives and salts thereof are not particularly limited, but L-ascorbate such as sodium L-ascorbate, potassium L-ascorbate, magnesium L-ascorbate, sodium L-ascorbate, L-ascorbic acid such as L-ascorbic acid phosphate, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester such as calcium L-ascorbate, sodium L-ascorbate sulfate, magnesium L-ascorbate sulfate, calcium L-ascorbate sulfate Sulfuric acid ester salts and L-ascorbic acid glucoside are exemplified, and L-ascorbic acid glucoside is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of storage stability.
Moreover, examples of arbutin and its derivatives include hydroquinone-β-D-glucopyranoside, and these whitening agents can be used singly or in combination of two or more as required.

  Although the compounding quantity of the whitening agent of the component (a) used by this invention is not specifically limited, 0.01-10 mass% (henceforth "%" only) is preferable, More preferably, 0.5-5% It is. Within this range, a sufficient whitening effect can be obtained without stickiness.

In addition, the component (b) used in the present invention is oil-soluble, and is blended for imparting a whitening effect, good skin familiarity and softness of the back skin, and sucrose and γ-linolenic acid. The ratio of the sucrose hydroxyl group having an acyl substitution degree of 2 or more is 40 to 95% of the total esterified product. If the ratio of the hydroxyl group substitution degree of 2 or more is within this range, the production method is not particularly limited. For example, 10 to 50 parts by weight of γ-linolenic acid per 10 parts by weight of sucrose Is used for the ester exchange reaction using dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), dimethylformamide (DMF), or N-methyl 2-pyrrolidone as a solvent, a microemulsion ester method, a solventless ester method, and the like.
As a commercial item of component (b), there is CRODESTA GAMMA (manufactured by CRODA JAPAN).

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (b) used by this invention is not specifically limited, About 0.01 to 10%, Preferably about 0.05 to 5% is more preferable. If it is within this range, the skin will not get sticky and will not become sticky, so that the skin will not become soft and firm, and the skin will be supple and a sufficient whitening effect will be obtained.

  The component (c) used in the present invention is blended to control the separation rate and redispersibility of the bilayering and improve the stability. The nonionic surfactant and the anionic surfactant are used. An agent or a phospholipid is used, and one or more of these can be used.

  Among these, as the nonionic surfactant, for example, glycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, propylene glycol fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitan fatty acid ester and The alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitol fatty acid ester and the alkylene glycol adduct, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester other than component (a), polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, glycerin alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, lanolin alkylene glycol adduct, polyoxyalkylene modified silicone, etc. That.

  Examples of the anionic surfactant include fatty acids such as stearic acid and palmitic acid, and inorganic and organic salts thereof, alkylbenzene sulfate, alkyl sulfonate, α-olefin sulfonate, dialkyl sulfosuccinate. , Α-sulfonated fatty acid salt, acylmethyl taurine salt, N-methyl-N-alkyl taurine salt, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfate, alkyl phosphate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether Examples thereof include phosphates, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether phosphates, N-acyl amino acid salts, N-acyl-N-alkyl amino acid salts, and alkyl sulfosuccinates.

  Furthermore, examples of the phospholipid include phosphatidylcholine (lecithin), phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylglycerol, diphosphatidic acid, sphingomyelin and the like. In this, the phospholipid which is a mixture of these compounds obtained from soybean or egg yolk is preferable, and the thing which improved stability by hydrogenating among them is good. Among them, those having an iodine value of 20 or less are more preferable.

  Among the components (c), a nonionic surfactant is particularly preferable from the viewpoint that it is easy to control the separation rate and redispersibility of the cosmetic bilayer and to improve the stability, Among nonionic surfactants, those having a polyoxyalkylene group in the structure are preferred.

  Although the compounding quantity of said component (c) is not specifically limited, 0.01 to 3% is preferable with respect to the whole cosmetics, and 0.05 to 2% is more preferable.

  The component (d) water used in the present invention is an essential component for constituting the two-layer whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention, and contributes to imparting non-stickiness and freshness.

  In addition to the essential components (a) to (d) described above, the two-layer whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain various aqueous components, oil agents, powders, water-soluble polymers, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants as necessary. In addition, various agents such as preservatives, fragrances, anti-inflammatory agents, and plant extracts can be appropriately blended within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention.

  The two-layer whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by appropriately combining the components (a), (b), (c) and component (d) with other optional components according to a conventional method.

  EXAMPLES Next, an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated further. In addition, these do not limit this invention at all.

Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4: Toner lotion Toner lotions having the composition shown in Table 1 below were prepared by the following method. (1) Whitening effect, (2) Freshness, (3) Skin familiarity, (4 The softness of the back skin, (5) appearance, (6) redispersibility, and (7) storage stability were evaluated by the following methods, and the results are shown in Table 1.

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (6) are mixed uniformly.
B: Components (7) to (14) are mixed uniformly.
C: B was added to A to obtain a skin lotion.

[Evaluation Method: Usability of (1) to (4)]
55 female panels in their 20s and 40s used each lotion of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 every day for a month, (1) whitening effect, (2) freshness, (3 ) Sensory evaluation of each item of skin familiarity and (4) suppleness of skin after the following (c) 5-level evaluation criteria, and the average score of all panels using (d) 4-step evaluation criteria Was judged.
(C) Five-level evaluation criteria (Evaluation): (Grade)
Very good / very feel: 5 points Good / feel: 4 points Normal: 3 points Poor / not much felt: 2 points Very bad / not felt: 1 point (d) Four-step criteria (for all panels) (Average value): (judgment)
Average score of 4.5 or more: ◎
Average score of 3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
Average score of 2.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Average score of less than 2.5: ×

[Evaluation method: (5) Appearance]
Each lotion of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was allowed to stand at room temperature for 1 day, and the appearance was visually determined in accordance with the following (i) three-stage criteria.
(B) Three-stage criteria (Evaluation): (Judgment)
Completely separated into a transparent upper layer and a gel-like lower layer: ○
Although separated into two layers, the interface is ambiguous: △
Not separated into two layers: ×

[Evaluation method: (6) Redispersibility]
Each of the lotions of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 is stored in a thermostatic bath at 25 ° C. for 1 month, and the redispersibility when each sample after standing for 1 month is shaken 10 times is as follows. (E) Judgment was made according to a three-step criterion.
(E) Three-stage criteria (evaluation): (judgment)
Re-dispersed into a uniform layer: ○
Partially redistribute: △
Do not redistribute: ×

[Evaluation method: (7) Storage stability]
Each lotion of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was stored in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C. for one month, and was visually determined according to the following (b) four-stage criterion based on the state immediately after preparation.
(B) Four-step criteria (Evaluation): (Judgment)
No change: ◎
Slight change but no problem: ○
Somewhat changed: △
There is considerable change: ×

  As is clear from the results in Table 1 above, the skin lotions of Examples 1 to 7 which are the products of the present invention are superior to the skin lotions of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 in the whitening effect and have a fresh feeling and skin when used. It was a two-layer whitening cosmetic composition that was well-familiar and soft to the skin, and had good appearance aesthetics, redispersibility, and storage stability.

Example 8: Cosmetic liquid (ingredient) (%)
1. γ-Linolenic acid sucrose ester Note 1 0.5
2. Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (60 EO) 0.08
3. Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate (8EO) 0.02
4). Ethanol 10.0
5.1,3-Butylene glycol 8.0
6). Xanthan gum 0.5
7). Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.02
8). Edetate 0.2
9. Perfume appropriate amount10. Arbutin Note 2 3.0
11. Purified water remaining

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are mixed uniformly.
B: Components (5) to (11) are mixed uniformly.
C: B was added to A to obtain a serum.

  The beauty essence of Example 8 is transparent in the upper layer and excellent in aesthetics of the gel appearance in the lower layer, freshness, familiar skin, suppleness of the skin, excellent whitening effect, redispersibility, storage stability It was a two-layer whitening serum with good properties.

Example 9: Sunscreen (Ingredient) (%)
1. γ-Linolenic acid sucrose ester Note 1 0.5
2. Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (60 EO) 0.08
3. Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate (8EO) 0.02
4). Ethanol 10.0
5.1,3-Butylene glycol 8.0
6). Alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer 0.5
7). Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.02
8). Edetate 0.2
9. Perfume Appropriate amount 10.2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid 3.0
11. Nonporous spherical silica 1.0
12 Arbutin Note 2 3.0
13. Purified water remaining

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are mixed uniformly.
B: Components (5) to (13) are mixed uniformly.
C: B was added to A to obtain a sunscreen.

  The sunscreen of Example 9 has an upper layer that is transparent and a lower layer that has a gel-like appearance including powder, excellent freshness, softness of the skin, skin familiarity, whitening effect, redispersibility, and storage. It was a two-layered sunscreen with good stability.

Example 10: Cosmetic liquid (ingredient) (%)
1. γ-Linolenic acid sucrose ester Note 1 0.5
2. Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (60 EO) 0.08
3. Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate (8EO) 0.02
4). Ethanol 10.0
5.1,3-Butylene glycol 8.0
6). Sodium alginate 0.5
7). Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.02
8). Edetate 0.2
9. Perfume appropriate amount10. L-ascorbic acid glucoside * 3 2.0
11. Sodium hydroxide 0.24
12 Purified water remaining

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are mixed uniformly.
B: Components (5) to (12) are mixed uniformly.
C: B was added to A to obtain a serum.

  The cosmetic liquid of Example 10 is excellent in aesthetics of appearance having a transparent upper layer and a gel-like lower layer, and is excellent in freshness, familiarity with the skin, softness of the back skin, redispersibility during use and storage stability. There was a two-layer whitening serum having good properties and high whitening effect.

Example 11: Cosmetic liquid (ingredient) (%)
1. γ-Linolenic acid sucrose ester 0.5
2. Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (60 EO) 0.08
3. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid (iodine value: 11) 0.02
4). Ethanol 10.0
5.1,3-butylene glycol 6.0
6). Edetate 0.2
7). Perfume appropriate amount 8. Arbutin Note 2 3.0
9. Purified water remaining

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are mixed uniformly.
B: Components (5) to (9) are mixed uniformly.
C: B was added to A to obtain a serum.

  The essence of Example 11 is a two-layer whitening that has excellent appearance aesthetics, freshness, familiar skin, and softness of the back skin, good redispersibility and storage stability during use, and high whitening effect. There was a serum.

Claims (4)

The following components (a) to (d);
(A) Whitening agent (b) Sucrose which is an esterified product of sucrose and γ-linolenic acid, and the ratio of the hydroxyl group substitution degree of 2 or more per saccharide unit is 40 to 95% γ-Linolenic acid ester (c) One or two or more types selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants or phospholipids (d) Water blending, characterized in that it contains two layers Cosmetics. The two-layer whitening cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the component (a) is one or more selected from L-ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof and salts thereof, arbutin and derivatives thereof. The component (a) is mixed in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by mass, the component (b) in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by mass, and the component (c) in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by mass. The two-layer whitening cosmetic described. The two-layer whitening cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the whitening cosmetic composition is separated into a transparent upper layer and a gel-like lower layer at the time of standing.