JP2006257632A - Composite fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composite fabric which comprises wool fibers or animal fibers, and polyester-based conjugated fibers exhibiting higher bulkiness and more excellent latent crimp-developing ability than those of conventional latent crimp type conjugated fibers, hardly forming Yoryu-like crepes even in a non-twisted or slightly twisted state, and capable of giving a fabric having high quality and excellent soft stretchability, supplements the detects of both the fibers, and makes the best use of the advantages of both the fibers. <P>SOLUTION: This composite fabric is characterized by comprising wool fibers and/or animal fibers, and shrunk and three-dimensionally crimped polyester-based conjugated fibers comprising two or more polyester-based polymers, wherein at least one of the polyester-based polymers is a polyester consisting mainly of polytrimethylene terephthalate. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention is a composite of a polyester composite yarn and wool or animal fiber, and is preferably expressed by three-dimensional crimping and excellent crimping in heat treatment, and more preferably during semi-visible crimping and heat treatment before heat treatment. Polyester composite yarn, wool and beast that can give soft swell and stretchability when made into fabric due to the effect of latent crimping, and can give a high density and compact surface feeling and soft and repulsive texture The present invention relates to a composite fabric with wool fibers and a method for producing the same.

  Wool and animal fibers are widely used as clothing materials in various applications and have an overwhelming share in the field of outerwear. However, in recent years, wool and animal hair are often used in knitwear such as sweaters and cardigans as casual wear and weight of outerwear have increased. ) Is demanding, demand is sluggish. In order to obtain this stretchability and W & W properties, technological development in the modification and dyeing of wool has been carried out, but it has not been completed, but it can be addressed by combining it with elastic fibers such as spandex and commercially available polyester fibers. However, the situation is not satisfactory.

  On the other hand, since polyester has various excellent properties including mechanical properties, it is widely used not only for clothing. In addition, various methods have been employed in order to give stretchability to polyester fabrics by a recent stretch boom.

For example, there is a method of imparting stretch properties by mixing polyurethane-based elastic fibers in a woven fabric. However, when polyurethane-based elastic fibers are mixed, the texture inherent to polyurethane is hard, the texture and drape of the fabric is lowered, and it is difficult to disperse with disperse dyes for polyester, resulting in a problem of contamination.
For this reason, not only the dyeing process such as enhancement of reduction cleaning is complicated, but also it is difficult to dye in a desired color.

  In addition, there is a method of imparting stretch properties to a woven fabric by using a fiber in which false twisting is applied to a polyester fiber and twisting / untwisting torque is expressed. However, false twisted yarn has a problem of stickiness, and the torque tends to easily transfer to the texture on the surface of the fabric, which tends to cause fabric defects. For this reason, torque balance is achieved by heat treatment and S / Z twisting, and it is also possible to balance the drawbacks due to stretchability and embossing, but the problem is that the stretchability is generally too low. .

  On the other hand, as a method not using polyurethane-based elastic fibers or false twisted yarns, various latent crimpable polyester fibers using a side-by-side composite have been proposed. The latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber has a capability of generating crimps by heat treatment or having finer crimps than before heat treatment, and is distinguished from ordinary false twisted yarn. .

  For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 44-2504 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-308271 disclose a side-by-side type composite yarn of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having an intrinsic viscosity difference or an intrinsic viscosity difference, and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-295634. Describes side-by-side type composite yarns of homo-PET and copolymer PET having higher shrinkage than that. However, these side-by-side type composite yarns exhibit high stretchability by applying a wet heat temperature of 100 ° C or higher for 30 minutes or more after being subjected to alkali weight loss on the fabric, or use highly shrinkable copolymerized PET. Although it is described that deep color can be obtained as an effect of three-dimensional crimping, all are in 100% polyester, and the dyeing process is influenced by chemicals like wool fibers and animal fibers. It was easy to receive, and it was impossible to obtain a stretchability by mixing it with those used at room temperature and normal pressure.

  This is because the above-described side-by-side type composite yarn has a low crimping ability unless it has a high temperature and a wrinkle effect while restraining the fabric, or the crimp is easy to get loose due to external force. The side-by-side type composite yarn does not use the stretch property due to the expansion and contraction of the fiber itself like the polyurethane elastic fiber, but uses the expansion and contraction of the three-dimensional coil caused by the difference in contraction rate between the composite polymers for the stretch property. . For this reason, for example, when subjected to heat treatment under fabric restraint where the shrinkage of the polymer is limited, the heat is fixed as it is, and the coil is not sufficiently developed because it loses the shrinkage further, so that the above problem is considered to occur. Furthermore, when the composite yarn is used alone as a fabric, there is still a problem in the ability to express crimp due to binding force when used in combination with other fibers.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-19108 discloses a side-by-side type composite yarn using polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate. If the method described in this patent publication is used, an appropriate stretch property can be imparted. However, since the crimps between the single fibers have a strong tendency to associate with each other, the contraction force due to the coil crimps has anisotropy. -Like wrinkles appear. Further, as a result of a further test by the present inventors, a problem was found that the dyeing spots were caused by the thread spots considered to be due to the low spinning speed, and the quality was poor. This problem is that these side-by-side composite yarns require a high temperature / high pressure condition in which the temperature for expressing the crimps that are satisfied in the dyeing process that expresses the crimps exceeds the range of normal pressure, It is difficult to develop crimps. For example, crimps need to be expressed in a loop shape by a liquid flow action. The scouring / relaxation process is different from the synthetic fiber in the usual dyeing method of textiles using wool and animal hair fibers, and it has been carried out by many years of techniques such as tipping, boiling and shrinking, and it is necessary to incorporate these processes Sometimes it was a big problem to mix synthetic fibers.
Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 44-2504 JP-A-4-308271 JP-A-5-295634 Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-19108

  The present invention is free from dye contamination, which is a problem when mixed with polyurethane elastic fibers, and resists fabric restraint under normal temperature and atmospheric pressure dyeing conditions, which is a problem with conventional polyester-based latent crimpable fibers and false twisted yarns. In addition, it exhibits crimping ability, has excellent stretchability, and is non-torque, making it difficult to generate wrinkles, and can be relaxed and heat-treated in an expanded form with little wrinkling or dyeing spots during dyeing. The present invention provides a composite fabric of a polyester-based composite yarn, a wool fiber, and an animal fiber that can obtain a high-quality fabric.

In order to solve the above-described problems, the present invention employs the following configuration. That is,
(1) Consists of two or more kinds of polyester polymers, at least one component is composed of polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, expresses shrinkage and three-dimensional crimp, and has a stretch elongation ratio of 10 to 10 before heat treatment. A composite fabric comprising 40% semi-protruded crimped bulky polyester composite yarn and wool fiber and / or animal fiber.
(2) The semi-realized crimped bulky polyester composite yarn has a stretch elongation after heat treatment at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes of 30% to 80% and a stretch elastic modulus of 85% or more. The composite fabric according to (1) above.
(3) The composite fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the polyester-based composite yarn is untwisted or twisted with a twist coefficient K of 0 to 20,000.

However, twist coefficient K = T × D ^0.5
T: number of twists per meter of yarn length,
D: Yarn fineness (dtex)
(4) The polyester-based composite yarn and wool fiber and / or animal hair fiber are formed into a composite fiber bundle, and the stretch elongation rate after heat treatment at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes of the composite fiber bundle is 10 to 60%. The composite fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the composite fabric is provided.

  By using the polyester-based composite yarn of the present invention, when combined with wool fiber or animal hair fiber due to its bulkiness and excellent crimp expression ability, when it is made into a composite fabric using interwoven or twisted yarn, Since there is a gap between the composite yarns, the binding force between the fibers is small, and the latent crimp expression is excellent in the dyeing process, so that the stretch property is excellent with a soft touch with swell compared to the latent crimp expression type conjugate yarn. In addition, since it is non-torque, it is difficult to produce wrinkle-like wrinkles even in untwisted to sweet-twisted, and there is no dye contamination that becomes a problem when mixed with polyurethane, and a high-quality fabric can be obtained.

  The composite fiber constituting the polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention has a three-dimensional coiled crimp in the spun and drawn fiber, and further has the ability to develop a three-dimensional crimp by heat treatment. Two or more types of polyester polymers with different viscosities are bonded to the side-by-side type, the eccentric core-sheath type, or the multi-layer type composite type along the fiber length direction. Therefore, a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath composite type is preferable.

  By making polymers having different viscosities into the composite form, stress concentrates on the high viscosity side during spinning and stretching, so that the internal strain differs among the components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side contracts greatly due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the heat shrinkage rate difference in the heat treatment process of the fabric, and distortion occurs in the single fiber to take the form of a three-dimensional coil crimp. It can be said that the diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component (the value obtained by adding the elastic recovery rate difference and the heat shrinkage rate difference). As the shrinkage difference increases, the coil diameter decreases and the number of coils per unit fiber length increases.

  The coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent stretch characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (depending on the number of stretches) The coil has a small amount of sag and is excellent in stretch retention), and also has a small hysteresis loss (excellent resiliency and good fit) when the coil is recovered from elongation. While satisfying these requirements, a stretch material having excellent total balance can be obtained by having properties as polyester, for example, moderate tension, drape, and high dyeing fastness.

  Here, in order to satisfy the coil characteristics described above, the characteristics of the high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) are important. Since the stretch characteristics of the coil are dominated by the stretch characteristics of the high shrinkage component with the low shrinkage component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high shrinkage component is required to have particularly high extensibility and recoverability.

  Therefore, the present inventors have intensively studied to satisfy the above-mentioned properties without impairing the properties of the polyester, and as a result, use a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) as a high shrinkage component. I found it. PTT fibers have the same mechanical and chemical properties as polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) fibers, which are typical polyester fibers, and are stretch-recoverable. Is very good. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of PTT is a Gauche-Gauche structure (the molecular chain is bent at 90 degrees), and further, the density of restraint points due to the interaction between benzene rings (stacking, parallel) This is because the molecular chain can be easily stretched and recovered by the rotation of the methylene group.

  In addition, the low shrinkage component (low viscosity component) of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester that has good interfacial adhesiveness with PTT, which is a high shrinkage component, and has stable yarn-making properties. Absent. However, in consideration of mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material prices, PTT, PET, and PBT having fiber forming ability are preferable. Furthermore, both high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) and low shrinkage component (low viscosity component) are PTT, and by combining the melting point and glass transition point, stress can be concentrated on the higher viscosity component in the spinning process, and there is a difference in shrinkage rate. PTT is more preferable in that it can be increased. Further, since the Young's modulus of the fiber can be lowered by using both components as PTT, there is an advantage that a crimped yarn that is softer and excellent in elasticity can be obtained. Alternatively, a fiber-forming polyester having a faster alkali weight loss rate than the two components may be combined as a third component to form a special cross-sectional shape by performing a weight loss treatment after forming a fabric.

  In addition, the viscosity as used in the field of this invention refers to intrinsic viscosity (IV), and is a value measured by dissolving a sample in orthochlorophenol.

  In addition, the composite ratio when the two components are used is in the range of high shrinkage component: low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) in terms of yarn production and dimensional uniformity of the coil in the fiber length direction. Preferably, the range of 65:35 to 45:55 is more preferable.

  Here, the PTT of the present invention is a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol%, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, Although diols, such as cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, can be mentioned, it is not limited to these. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.

  Further, in order to overcome the fabric restraining force and to stably develop the coil crimp, the shrinkage stress and the temperature indicating the maximum shrinkage stress are important characteristics. The higher the shrinkage stress is, the better the crimp developability under fabric restraint is, and the higher the temperature at which the maximum shrinkage stress is, the easier the handling in the finishing process. Therefore, in order to enhance the crimp development property in the heat treatment process of the fabric, the temperature at which the maximum shrinkage stress is exhibited is 110 ° C. or higher, preferably 130 ° C. or higher, more preferably 150 ° C. or higher. .15 cN / dtex or more, preferably 0.20 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 0.25 cN / dtex or more.

  The polyester composite yarn used in the present invention is more preferably in a three-dimensional manner due to stress relaxation at the time when it is unwound from the winding form because the shape of the spun and drawn raw yarn is used in the process of producing a fabric. Crimps appear, so-called semi-existing due to stress relaxation, the crimp phase is shifted between the composite fibers constituting the three-dimensional crimped form as if false twisting is performed, and the bulk height of the composite yarn is high Things are desirable. By increasing the bulk height, it is possible to provide an appropriate swell, which is the object of the present invention, and to provide a soft and repulsive fabric. Furthermore, the crimp phase shift enhances the effect of torque dispersion due to coil crimping, and there is almost no wrinkle-like texture in untwisted to sweet twist, and a high-quality fabric can be obtained. Moreover, by enabling processing with no twisting to sweet twisting, a woven fabric having no sense of sheer can be obtained. The above effect is achieved at a bulk height of 30 cc / g or more, preferably 40 cc / g or more, more preferably 50 cc / g or more. Incidentally, a composite of PET-based composite yarn having an intrinsic viscosity difference as described in JP-B No. 44-2504, or a combination of homo-PET and high-shrinkage copolymerized PET as described in JP-A No. 5-295634. The bulk height of the yarn is about 10 cc / g at most, and the bulk height of the composite yarn disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-19108 is about 20 cc / g.

  The polyester composite yarn of the present invention has a stretch elongation of 30% or more as shown in JIS L 1090 (Synthetic fiber filament bulky processed yarn test method) 5.7 method C (simple method), and stretch elasticity. The rate is preferably 85% or more. Conventionally, as described in JP-A-6-322661, etc., the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber was heat-treated in a state close to load-free, and the stretch / elongation rate was regulated there. It cannot be said that the expansion and contraction characteristics under the constraint of the fabric are necessarily reflected.

  Accordingly, paying attention to the fact that the ability to develop crimps under fabric restraint is important, heat treatment was performed by the method shown in FIG. 1, and the stretch elongation rate and the stretch elastic modulus were defined by the following equations.

Expansion / contraction elongation (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100%
Elastic modulus of elasticity (%) = [(L1−L2) / (L1−L0)] × 100%
L0: Kase length after carrying out hot water treatment at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes with a 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load suspended from a fiber floss L1: After removing L0, remove L0 measurement load 90 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load hung up after 30 seconds L2: After L1 measurement, remove L1 measurement load and leave it for 2 minutes, and then re-load 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load. The hook length after 30 seconds after hanging, that is, the same load as 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex corresponding to the restraining force in the cloth is hung on the fiber case and heat-treated, The crimp expression ability can be expressed by the expansion / contraction elongation rate of the fiber cassette. A higher stretch elongation rate indicates higher crimp expression ability, and 30% or more is preferable because an appropriate stretch characteristic can be provided. The higher the stretch / expansion rate after the heat treatment, the better the stretch performance when made into a fabric, preferably 50% or more and 80% or less.

  Incidentally, a PET composite yarn having an intrinsic viscosity difference as described in JP-B No. 44-2504, or a composite of a combination of homo-PET and high-shrinkage copolymer PET as described in JP-A No. 5-295634. For yarns, the stretch / extension rate is at most about 5%.

  In addition, when the stretch property is imparted by the expansion and contraction of the coil crimp, the durability of the crimp is also an important factor, and the elastic modulus of elasticity is a reference as an index. It shows that it is excellent in wearing durability and a feeling of fitting, so that a stretching elastic modulus is high, Preferably it is 85% or more, More preferably, it is 90% or more.

  In addition, the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is formed by winding and spinning the raw yarn used in the fabric process by spinning and drawing which is possible depending on the characteristics of the polymer used in the raw yarn stage and the conditions in the fiber production process as described above. It is even better if it is a composite yarn that is expressed by stress relaxation and is semi-substantially crimped when it is unwound from its restraining force, and the degree of crimp that is expressed is expressed by the crimp elongation before heat treatment. Having a semi-realized crimp before this heat treatment means that in the composite fabric, the crimp is present in a semi-exposed state in the composite yarn constituting the raw machine before the heat treatment in the dyeing process. It is an extremely important factor that plays a role in greatly reducing the occurrence of crimp due to shrinkage stress by heat treatment in the dyeing process by weakening the binding force. And by expressing latent crimps by dyeing, it has become possible to provide a fabric excellent in swelling, stretchability, etc., which was impossible with conventional latent crimp yarns. In particular, when the fiber shrinks due to the scale of the fiber in the tip and boil process such as wool and animal hair fiber, the fiber is restrained by swelling, etc. compared to the fiber that does not absorb moisture when wet, such as cellulosic fiber. It is compatible with complex fabrics that have problems such as high properties, low strength, and easy action on fabrics in the dyeing process such as fluff and wrinkles.

This crimp extension rate before heat treatment is a method of measuring the crimp extension rate measured by performing the heat treatment shown in the method shown in FIG.
The expansion / contraction elongation rate was defined by the following formula.

Stretch elongation before heat treatment (%) = [(L1-L2) / L2] × 100%
L1: Measurement load 90 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load and casket length 30 seconds later L2: After L1 measurement, remove L1 measurement load and let stand for 2 minutes, again 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / Case length 30 seconds after dtex load is hung In a conventional PET / PET conjugate conjugate fiber, the stretch / elongation rate before heat treatment is zero in the measurement method. In other words, even though the crimped form of the original yarn after spinning / drawing has a gentle three-dimensional crimped form, it is an apparent form and not a real manifestation of crimp, and the crimp is a potential developed by heat treatment. It is crimped.

  Further, the cross-sectional shape of the polyester-based composite fiber of the present invention may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobe cross section, a flat cross section, a hollow cross section, an X-shaped cross section, or other known irregular cross sections, and is not limited in any way. However, from the balance of crimp development and texture, semicircular side-by-side types (a) and (b), eccentric core-sheath types (c) and (d) as shown in FIG. A side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type such as a hollow side-by-side (e), a flat cross-sectional side-by-side (f), (g) or a triangular cross-sectional side-by-side (h) aimed at a dry texture is preferably used. In particular, since the shape of the spun yarn that is spun and stretched in a more preferable mode is used for the production of the fabric, a three-dimensional crimp due to stress relaxation is developed at the time of unwinding from the wound shape, It is said that the so-called semi-striking due to the stress relaxation, the crimp phase is shifted between the composite fibers constituting the three-dimensional crimped form as if the false twisting process is performed, and the composite yarn having a high bulk height is desirable. As for thing, said cross-sectional shape is (b), (f), (g), and (h).

  Next, the aspect of the composite fabric using the polyester composite yarn of the present invention will be described.

The polyester-based composite yarn of the present invention has no wrinkling even when it is a non-twisted to sweet-twisted fabric, and the surface of the fabric can be finished flat. The polyester-based composite yarn is used for warp and / or weft yarns in ordinary fabrics, and the fabric is designed in a region that is sweeter than the conditions used for conventional polyester latent crimped composite fibers, and the dyeing processing conditions There is relatively no restriction, and there is no expression of wrinkles, and a fabric excellent in stretchability can be obtained.
In addition, the wool fiber to be used in the present invention is a commonly used wool representing merino wool, and the animal hair fiber is not particularly limited, such as cashmere, angora, mohair, alpaca, vicule.

  In knitting, it is used without limitation for horizontal, round and vertical. In this case, compared with the conventional polyester latent crimp type composite fiber, the density range in the living machine can be set wider. In particular, if the raw yarn has a performance that has a semi-realized crimp, the structural yarn between the constituent yarns is expressed by a structural void structure due to the manifested semi-realized crimp, and the latent silk Shrinkage is easy to develop, and since the crimp development force is easy when shrinking in the width direction and length direction, the structure shrinks three-dimensionally and is sufficiently dense. In addition, in the case of clogging due to the density of raw machinery, the gap between fibers due to semi-realized crimps between the constituent yarns can increase the potential to develop latent crimps by relaxing heat treatment during dyeing. As compared with the case of using conventional polyester latent crimp type composite fibers, there are advantages that the density after dyeing can be increased, a compact surface can be obtained, and the stretchability can be increased.

  As a characteristic of the polyester-based composite yarn to be used, it is preferable that the expansion / contraction elongation ratio after heat treatment, which is a potential crimp developing ability, is 30% or more and 80% or less. If this characteristic is less than 30%, the crimping process does not sufficiently develop in the relaxation process of the dyeing process, so that an area where the bulge and stretch properties are satisfactory is not realized, and if it exceeds 80%, the texture is hard and the stretch property is reversed. And its elastic modulus decreases. Moreover, it is more preferable if it is a semi-realized crimp property in addition to the latent crimp development property, and the elongation rate before heat treatment is preferably 10 to 40%. By satisfying these fiber characteristics, it can be widely used for composite fabrics used in untwisted regions.

  As a composite fabric, first, in a woven fabric, a warp yarn or a weft yarn is used in combination with a polyester composite yarn as a weft yarn or a warp yarn in combination with a spun yarn using wool fibers and / or animal hair fibers. In this case, there are not a few elements that are particularly limited to the spun yarn using wool fiber and / or animal fiber used. As for the yarns using wool fiber and animal fiber, 100% wool obtained by the usual woolen spinning and wool spinning method, and the blended yarn of wool and animal hair can be used. Besides these, cotton, hemp, silk Natural fibers, viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon (cupra), refined rayon (Tencel), or a small amount of acrylic, nylon, polyester or the like may be used. These spun yarns can be single yarns or twin yarns. It is a composite yarn generally obtained by fine spinning and twisting, which supplies other raw yarn to the front roller of the spinning machine when supplying coarse yarn including wool and animal hair in the spinning step of the spinning process. Also good. Furthermore, it may be a composite yarn made by a composite means such as cross-twisting, double-twisting or covering method using a spun yarn made of wool and / or animal hair with a twisting machine or the like. The raw yarn containing wool and / or animal hair is not particularly limited as long as it has a thickness suitable for the fabric weight suitable for the clothing field applied to garment as a fabric. Usually, spun yarn wool and animal hair are generally produced using raw wool, but may be spun yarn using rose hair dyeing or top dyeing, and may be spun yarn or cheese dyed yarn. On the other hand, a polyester-based composite yarn may also be dyed with casserole, or dyed with muff or cheese.

In addition, there are few limited elements in the knitted fabric due to the knitting and array knitting. On the other hand, the polyester composite yarn can be used without twisting. In addition, the number of twists in the case of carrying out additional twist and providing it to the composite fabric may be either the S direction or the Z direction, and in the case of twisting the polyester composite yarn alone, the twist coefficient K = T × D ^0.5 ( However, it is preferable that untwisted or twisted twisting coefficient K is 0 to 20,000 in T: number of twists per 1 m of yarn length and D: fineness of yarn (dtex). The upper limit range of the twist coefficient K is preferably 20,000, and in the case of fine spinning with a wool fiber and / or animal fiber or a composite twisted yarn, the upper limit is 15,000-18,000. It is preferable to do. Further, in the case of the composite twisted yarn with the wool fiber and / or the animal hair fiber, when the expansion / contraction elongation ratio after the heat treatment is in the range of 10 to 60%, the composite fabric swells and is in a region where the stretch property can be satisfied. .

  The composite fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for shirts, blouses, pants, suits, blousons, and the like because of its wide range from the thin field to the thick field.

  Next, a preferred method for producing a composite fabric of the polyester composite yarn of the present invention and wool fiber and / or animal fiber will be described.

  The polyester-based composite yarn to be used is arranged such that polyester A mainly composed of PTT is arranged on one of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers, and polyester B having a fiber forming ability is arranged on the other side, and merges at the upper part of the spinneret discharge hole. Then, after forming a side-by-side composite flow or an eccentric core-sheath composite flow, it is discharged from a discharge hole for obtaining a desired cross-sectional shape. The discharged yarn may be manufactured by a two-step method in which it is cooled and solidified, and then wound up and then stretched, or it is manufactured by a direct spinning and stretching method in which the yarn is stretched as it is after the spinning is taken up. Also good. Further, in order to impart the semi-realized crimp bulkiness as a more preferable aspect of the present invention, it is important to increase the gap between the single fibers by shifting the phase of the coil crimp for each single fiber. As a means for that, a method using an elastic recovery stress having a high PTT is preferable. The composite yarn of the present invention can develop crimps even under relatively high tension due to elastic recovery stress immediately after stretching. A 3-15% relaxation treatment is performed between the hot rolls of the drawing machine and the yarn tension is lowered to cause the yarn to open along with the occurrence of crimping. When the force is released from the force, crimping occurs due to stress relaxation, resulting in a semi-realized and bulky form.

  Next, the combination with wool fibers and / or animal fibers can be applied to any woven or knitted fabric. The woven fabric may be either warp or weft, and may be used for both warp and weft in the case of a yarn that is combined by twisting, twisting, blending, or the like. Polyester composite yarn is used as the warp yarn for 100% wool fiber, yarn blended with animal hair fiber, wool fiber, animal fiber and other natural fibers, and chemical fiber. You may use without twisting or twisting. Wool fiber or animal hair fiber blended yarn and the composite yarn can be applied to a composite fabric after fine spinning, twisting and twisting (mixing), and blending. In this compounding, in the case of cross-twisting or twisting, if it is a semi-realized crimped yarn, there is no slack in the crimp and there is no slackness, and there is no problem in passing through the weaving process. Using a ring type twisting machine such as the DTF type, which was developed as a normal drawing machine and improved for composite twisting, wool and animal hair fibers without extending the semi-crimped crimp of polyester composite fibers The most important point is to combine with the spun yarn and add sweetness to combine them. Further, in the case of twisting, it is particularly recommended that the method is a method of simultaneously spinning with the polyester-based composite fiber in a spinning process in spinning wool and animal hair fibers.

  If the draw and twist conditions are not good, the characteristics of the composite cannot be utilized. When the polyester composite yarn is made into a composite fabric by a method of arraying / union weaving or knitting independently, the twist coefficient in the case of non-twisting to medium twisting is set to K = 20,000 as the upper limit. Further, the twist number of the composite twisted yarn in the case where the polyester composite fiber and the wool fiber and / or the animal hair fiber spun yarn are aligned and twisted is preferably set to the upper limit of the twist coefficient K = 15,000.

  In the case of twisted yarn, a twist set is carried out from the process passability side, and it differs depending on the number of twists, but the latent crimp expression of the polyester-based composite yarn is fully exhibited in the relax heat treatment and dyeing process. 70 degrees C or less is preferable.

  Next, in weaving and knitting, these raw yarns and composite twisted yarns may be freely selected in terms of arrangement, structure, etc. according to the design purpose of the fabric. In order to express the characteristics of the raw yarn used in this composite fabric, it is better to increase the proportion of wool fibers and animal fibers that appear on the surface of the fabric. Therefore, 20 to 80% cotton fiber and 80 to 20% polyester composite fiber are preferable. More preferably, the PPT composite rate is 35 to 65%. In the case of a knitted fabric, it is possible to cope with any of circular knitting, warp knitting, warp knitting, and weft insertion. The mixing ratio may be based on the woven fabric.

  Next, important requirements regarding the dyeing conditions of the composite fabric are listed.

  In the dyeing process of the composite fabric of polyester-based composite yarn and wool fiber and / or animal fiber, which are the constituent requirements of the composite fabric, the process and the processing temperature conditions are important. The most important point is to suppress the occurrence of wrinkles and the generation of wrinkles in the composite fabric, and to fully draw out the potential crimping capability of the polyester composite fiber. For this reason, it is preferable to use conventional wool fiber and animal fiber dyeing equipment and process conditions as equipment. There are limits to using the texture of wool fibers and animal fibers in the dyeing processing equipment and conditions of synthetic fibers. If synthetic fiber dyeing equipment is used, the relaxation process preferably has specifications that allow the treatment liquid layer to be processed in multiple stages of temperature conditions using a softer or open soaper type machine that can be expanded. As for the temperature, preferably, the relaxation temperature starts from 60 ° C. or less, and a normal temperature range of 98 ° C. is sufficient. The polyester composite yarn of the present invention is characterized in that the latent crimp is sufficiently developed under the above conditions and the stretchability can be imparted to the fabric. The conventional crimp expression of conjugates such as conventional PET / PET bimetals was difficult to achieve with a relaxation treatment with boiling water, and was possible only after the effect of wrinkle in a high-pressure temperature range was given. For this reason, wool fibers and animal hair fibers are so brittle that they cannot embrace characteristics such as texture and luster.

  The equipment and dyeing process conditions for dyeing and processing wool and animal fiber do not change the texture, appearance and physical properties of the wool and animal fibers. What is necessary is just to set the conditions to be exhibited. Here, in setting the conditions, the polyester-based composite yarn can sufficiently exhibit the latent crimping ability for obtaining stretchability at room temperature and normal pressure of 100 ° C. or lower, but dyeing needs to be performed at a high pressure of 105 ° C. or higher. It is necessary to use an auxiliary agent for preventing embrittlement. Dyeing is carried out at a temperature of 120 ° C. or lower, without raising the temperature of conventional polyester to 130 ° C. In order to impart stretchability, before the dyeing process is started, relaxation is performed in a tipping process, a boiled process, and a contraction process.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically based on examples. In addition, the measuring method in an Example used the following method.

A. Intrinsic Viscosity 0.8 g of sample polymer was dissolved in 10 ml of orthochlorophenol (hereinafter abbreviated as OCP), and the relative viscosity ηr was determined from the following equation using an Ostwald viscometer at 25 ° C., and IV was calculated.

ηr = η / η ₀ = (t × d) / (t ₀ × d ₀ )
IV = 0.0242ηr + 0.2634
Where η: the viscosity of the polymer solution,
η ₀ : viscosity of OCP,
t: Solution drop time (seconds),
d: density of the solution (g / cm ³ ),
t ₀ : OCP fall time (seconds),
d ₀ : OCP density (g / cm ³ ).

B. Shrinkage stress Measured with a thermal stress measuring instrument manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. at a heating rate of 150 ° C./min. The sample was a 10 cm × 2 loop, and the initial tension was fineness (dtex) × 0.9 × (1/30) gf.

C. Bulk Height FIG. 4 is a front view of an apparatus for measuring the bulk height M, and FIG. 5 is a side view for explaining a measurement method using this apparatus. Two notches 6 are provided on the upper surface of the sample stage 1, the distance between the outer edges is set to 6 mm, a PET film 2 having a width of 2.5 cm is passed over this notch, and a bracket 3 with a pointer and a load 4 are provided below it. Join. The pointer of the metal fitting 3 is set so as to indicate the zero position of the scale 5 when the sample is not attached.

  Use a measuring instrument with a circumference of 1 m to make the sample have a fineness of 50,000 dtex and a yarn length of 50 cm (for example, if it is a 50 dtex yarn, 50,000 ÷ 50 ÷ 2 = 500. Wrap 500 times with a machine to make a cassette with a display fineness of 50,000 dtex). Next, as shown in the front view of FIG. 4 and the side view of FIG. 5, the obtained cassette 7 is inserted between the PET film 2 and the sample table 1, and the shrinking sample is pulled, so that the cassette length becomes 25 cm. 7 is fixed. The load 4 is set to 50 g in total with the metal fitting 3 with the pointer, and L (cm) indicated by the pointer is read. The measurement is performed three times, and the bulk height M is calculated from the average L value by the following formula.

M (cc / g) = volume V in the film / yarn weight W in the film
V (cc) = L ² /π×2.5
W (g) = 50000 × (0.5 / 0.25) × (0.025 / 10000) = 0.25
D. Stretch elongation rate, stretch elastic modulus JIS L1090 (Synthetic fiber filament bulky processed yarn test method) 5.7 In accordance with method C (simple method), heat treatment is performed by the method shown in FIG. Stretching elongation and stretching elastic modulus were defined.

Expansion / contraction elongation (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100%
Elastic modulus of elasticity (%) = [(L1−L2) / (L1−L0)] × 100%
L0: Length of casserole after 90 ° C. hot water treatment for 20 minutes with a 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load suspended from a fiber casserole and air-dried for one day and night L1: L0 measurement load is removed after L0 measurement 90 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load hung up to 30 seconds later L2: After measuring L1, remove the L1 measurement load and leave it for 2 minutes, then lift the 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load again. And the casket length after 30 seconds.

E. Stretch elongation before heat treatment JIS L1090 (synthetic fiber filament bulk processing thread test method), 5.7 Section C method (simple method), and scouring is performed. In the measurement method shown in FIG. The expansion / contraction elongation rate was defined.

Stretch elongation before heat treatment (%) = [(L2-L1) / L1] × 100
L1: Measurement load 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load and cassette length 30 seconds later L2: After L1 measurement, L1 measurement load is removed and 90 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load is suspended 30 Examples of the present invention will be described in detail below.

Example 1
Warp 100% wool yarn 16.8tex / 2 (British lash count 2/60) was warped and set on a rapier loom. A woven fabric was made using polyester composite yarn for the weft. The polyester composite yarn was manufactured as follows. Homo PTT having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.38 (melt viscosity 1280 poise) containing 0.35% by weight of titanium oxide as a matting agent and an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.35% by weight of titanium oxide being 0 .65 (melt viscosity 260 poise) homo-PTTs were melted separately, discharged from a 36-hole composite spinneret at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. at a composite ratio (% by weight) of 50:50, and taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min. A 179 dtex, 24-filament side-by-side composite structure unstretched yarn (fiber cross section shown in Fig. 2a) was obtained. The maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn was 4.6 times. Furthermore, after aging the undrawn yarn at an environmental temperature of 25 ° C. × 2 days, using a drawing machine, the first hot roll temperature is 70 ° C., the second hot roll temperature is 35 ° C. for mirror finish (surface roughness 0.8S), the first Stretching at a stretching ratio of 3.2 times between the hot roll and the second hot roll (70% of the maximum stretching ratio), and at a third hot roll temperature of 170 ° C., the relaxation rate between the second hot roll and the third hot roll is 13%. The film was drawn 1.02 times between the third hot roll and the draw roll to obtain a drawn yarn of about 56 dtex and 24 filaments. The yarn tension in the relaxation treatment zone was 0.01 cN / dtex. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred. The raw yarn showed an excellent bulkiness and stretch characteristics due to a phase shift of crimp due to a semi-realized crimp with a stretch elongation rate of 30.8% before heat setting. The heat treatment expansion / contraction elongation was 63.9%. The prototype yarn is driven untwisted into a plain structure to produce a raw machine with a raw machine width of 170 cm (a warp density of 45 / 2.5 cm, a weft density of 85 / 2.5 cm), and dyeing is performed in the general process of woolen fabrics. It was. The cloth was scoured and relaxed at 80 ° C. for 3 minutes through a washing machine in the form of an expanded cloth, boiled at 95 ° C. and 130 cm wide and 80 horizontal / 2.5 cm wide.

  Next, after drying, it was pre-set with a tenter, dyed with an acidic dye at a temperature of 100 ° C. by liquid flow dyeing, finished at 160 ° C., and steamed with semi-deca. A composite fabric having a width of 125 cm and a horizontal density of 95 / 2.5 cm was obtained. The surface of the fabric is flat and free of wrinkles, has an elegant luster and color developability of wool, and has a large width due to the occurrence of crimp in the horizontal direction, so the warp density is compact and has a high texture that is slightly different from conventional woolen cotton fabrics. I had it. It had a soft stretch property, which was not a conventional polyester (PET system), and had a soft and swelled texture, such as using 25% spandex covering yarn in a simple manner in the width direction. The elongation in the horizontal direction by the L1096B method was 27%, and the elongation recovery rate was 88% after 1 hour.

Example 2
Using the warp yarn of Example 1, PPT / PET bimetal conjugate yarn 56 dtex as a weft yarn, two 24 filaments are aligned and subjected to 1,000 T / m (twisting factor 10,580) in the S direction, and 70 ° C. A plain woven fabric was made as a trial by twisting with a heat set for 30 minutes with wet heat. The raw machine width was 175 cm and the density (43 warps / 2.5 cm, 65 wefts / 2.5 cm). The raw machine was finished in the same wool fabric process as in Example 1 through washing, boiling processes, dyeing (100 ° C.), and semi-deca process. The finished width was 135 cm, the warp yarn density was 56 / 2.5 cm, and the weft yarn density was 81 / 2.5 cm. Compared with Example 1, the finished woven fabric was a soft stretch woven fabric with a compact surface feeling and a draping property because it was twisted into twin yarns. The stretchability was 22.0% in the horizontal direction according to the L1096B method, and the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour was 92% with no problem.

Example 3
The 56-dtex, 24-filament polyester composite yarn of Example 1 was fed from the front roller in the spinning process of 100% wool spinning, and the fine-spun twisted yarn 19.2 tex (British style yarn count 1 / 52), and the anti-twisting set was performed by a wet heat vacuum setting system at 65 ° C. for 30 minutes. This composite spinning yarn has a crimp elongation of 17% by heat treatment. Using this twisted composite yarn, 80% merino wool 64S quality wool is mixed with 20% cashmere goat wool and used for 28.4 tex / 2 (English style 2/48) weft yarn. A fabric was prototyped with a texture of 3/2 Aya. The amount of viability was 190 cm in width and density (60 vertical / 2.5 cm, 57 horizontal / 2.5 cm). This raw machine was put into a normal wool dyeing process. Relax in the form of a spread and simultaneously with scouring with a washing machine, then boil it, then dye it with acid dye at 100 ° C, set at 160 ° C with dry heat finish, width 130cm, width 67 /2.5 cm. The finished composite fabric had a high-class feeling with few wrinkles on the surface, and had a soft stretch of about 15% in a horizontal direction with excellent soft feeling of swelling.

Comparative Example Conventional PET / PET IV Difference (0.5 / 0.75) Latent Crimp-Expressing Bimetal Conjugate Yarn 56 dtex, 12 Filament Yarn Using Composite Spinning, Compared to Example 1, Composite Fabric Created. The latent crimp expression type conjugate yarn used had a crimp elongation of 45.1% by heat treatment. Using this conjugate multifilament yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1, a composite fabric production machine was prepared. Compared with Example 1, the amount of the raw machine had no crimp, so the width did not enter and increased to 1178 cm. The living machine was expanded and relaxed under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the relaxation width was 170 cm and the horizontal density was 45. Dyeing was performed at 100 ° C., and the width was 168 cm, the horizontal density was 45 / 2.5 cm, and no shrinkage occurred. The composite fabric was raised under the width finishing set condition. The finished product was slightly wrinkled and was inferior in quality due to the difference in dyeing property and in stretchability without stretchability compared to Example 1.

It is a figure for demonstrating the measuring method of expansion-contraction elongation rate and expansion-contraction elastic modulus. It is a figure which shows the measuring method of the expansion / contraction elongation rate showing the semi-visible crimp expressed in the raw yarn before heat processing. It is a figure which shows an example of the fiber cross-sectional shape of the fiber which comprises the fabric of this invention. It is a front view of the apparatus for measuring bulk height. It is a side view which shows the measuring method of bulk height.

Explanation of symbols

1: Sample stage 2: PET film 3: Metal fitting with pointer 4: Load 5: Scale 6: Notch 7: Fuse

Claims (4)

  Consists of two or more kinds of polyester polymers, at least one component is composed of polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, expresses shrinkage and three-dimensional crimp, and stretch elongation before heat treatment is 10-40% A composite fabric comprising a semi-realized crimped bulky polyester composite yarn and wool fibers and / or animal fibers.   The semi-realized crimped bulky polyester composite yarn has a stretch elongation after heat treatment at 90 ° C for 20 minutes of 30% or more and 80% or less, and a stretch elastic modulus of 85% or more. Item 2. The composite fabric according to Item 1. The composite fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester-based composite yarn is untwisted or twisted with a twist coefficient K of 0 to 20,000.
However, twist coefficient K = T × D ^0.5
T: number of twists per meter of yarn length,
D: Yarn fineness (dtex) The polyester-based composite yarn and wool fiber and / or animal fiber are formed into a composite fiber bundle, and the stretch / elongation rate after heat treatment at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes of the composite fiber bundle is 10 to 60%. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that

Images