JP2004211253A

JP2004211253A - Stretchable knit fabric containing elastic composite spun yarn and stretchable wear produced by using the same

Info

Publication number: JP2004211253A
Application number: JP2003001032A
Authority: JP
Inventors: Ryoji Nakamura; 良司中村
Original assignee: Toyobo Co Ltd
Current assignee: Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date: 2003-01-07
Filing date: 2003-01-07
Publication date: 2004-07-29
Anticipated expiration: 2023-01-07
Also published as: JP4139998B2

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable knit fabric having high stretchability to softly fit the curve line of the body, enabling the three-dimensional forming if necessary, recovering the original shape by heat-treatment from an irreversibly deformed state caused by repeated wearing and most suitable for underwear, T-shirt and golf jacket. <P>SOLUTION: The stretchable knit fabric contains a core-sheath composite spun yarn containing a polyolefin elastic fiber as the core and staple fibers as the sheath. The constant load elongation of the knit fabric in the course direction is ≥50%, the recovery is ≥50% and the iron shrinkage is ≤3%. The invention further provides an underwear, T-shirt and golf jacket produced by using the knit fabric. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO&NCIPI

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は伸長性、回復性に富み立体縫製が不要で裁断ロスが少なく、必要により立体熱セットも可能で、かつ伸長歪みによる変形も回復可能な伸縮性編地およびそれを用いた衣料に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
伸縮性のある編地を用いた衣料は肌に密着して、体温を保温する役目と、肌から放出される水分および皮膚の老化物等の排出物を吸収して肌表面を衛生的に保つ役目と中衣の摩擦による肌の損傷を防ぐ役目で着用される。盛夏を余いては、肌に密着し、かつ動作の妨げにまらないことが要求される。このため、従来から綿の丸編み地、特にゴム編みや天竺等の編地が多く用いられてきた。特に肌着の価値感の１つに白さがあり、一般的には綿編地はクロライト等で晒加工で仕上げられる。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
これらの衣料の代表として肌着があり、肌着、特に紳士用の肌着は胸囲または尻囲より若干細めの編み幅に仕上がる口径の編み機を用いて、サイド部分は無縫製で用いられている。しかし、婦人用はバスト、ヒップとウエストの寸法差異が大きく、ボディーラインにフィットした肌着をうるには編地の伸長率を上げるか、縫製をして成型するしかない。編地の伸長率を上げる手段として、編み密度を粗くする方法があるが、寸法安定性の面で限界がある。他方として、弾性糸を編み込む方法も考えられるが必須のクロライト晒に耐える弾性糸がない。また、肌着の寿命は部分的な劣化破断と変色による見栄えの劣化及び繰り返し伸長に起因する部分的変形（首廻りや袖口のだれ）による劣化により決まる。破断は商品寿命としてしかたないとしても、変色や変形は再生できることが好ましい。
【０００４】
【課題を解決するための手段】
即ち本発明は下記の構成からなる。
１．ポリオレフィン弾性繊維を芯に、短繊維を鞘に配した芯鞘型複合紡績糸を含む編地であって、該編地のコース方向の特性が下記（１）〜（３）を満足することを特徴とする伸縮性編地。
（１）定荷重伸長率が５０％以上。
（２）回復率が５０％以上。
（３）アイロン収縮率が３％以下。
２．ポリオレフィン弾性繊維の混用率が１０％以下であることを特徴とする上記第１記載の伸縮性編地。
３．編組織が天竺、ゴム編み、又は両面編みのいずれかであることを特徴とする上記第１又は２記載の伸縮性編地。
４．上記第１記載の伸縮性編地を少なくとも一部に用いてなることを特徴とする肌着。
５．上記第１記載の伸縮性編地を少なくとも一部に用いてなることを特徴とするＴシャツ。
６．上記第１記載の伸縮性編地を少なくとも一部に用いてなることを特徴とするゴルフシャツ。
【０００５】
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討した結果、該架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性繊維の耐薬品性、耐熱性、ソフト伸長性、熱セット特性に鑑みて、従来のスパンデックス等を含んだ複合紡績糸では達成できなかった、クロライト晒工程にも耐える本発明に至った。
【０００６】
本発明でいうポリオレフィン弾性繊維は均一に分枝を有しており、実質的に線状であるオレフィンをいい、好ましくは耐熱性、等の諸物性を向上せしめる観点から、架橋処理を施されてなる繊維である。
ここで均一に分枝していて実質的に線状であるオレフィン繊維とは、オレフィン系モノマーを重合させた重合物であり、その重合物の分岐度合いが均一であるものを言う。
例えばαオレフィンを共重合させた低密度ポリエチレンや特表平８−５０９５３０号公報記載の弾性繊維がこれに当たる。
また架橋処理の方法としては、例えばラジカル開始剤やカップリング剤などを用いた化学架橋や、エネルギー線を照射することによって架橋させる方法等が挙げられる。製品となった後の安定性を考慮するとエネルギー線照射による架橋が好ましいが、本発明はこれらの方法に限定されるものではない。
【０００７】
芯糸にポリオレフィン弾性繊維を用いる理由は次の２つの理由による。１つは、綿の白度とソフト風合いを得るために必要なクロライト晒工程に耐えうる耐薬品性を有する弾性糸であること。他の１つは、充分に伸長歪みを除去した状態で、熱セットすると以降の繰り返し伸長により、生ずる残留歪みが後の熱処理により、初期の熱セットした状態に近い状態に戻る形態記憶性の特性をもつためである。
【０００８】
複合紡績糸の鞘に用いる繊維は毛羽によるソフト触感を与え、マイルドな光沢感を出す意味から短繊維が好ましく、なかでも綿繊維が吸湿性を付与し、着用耐久性の観点からより好ましいが、他に絹、麻、羊毛等の天然短繊維やレイヨン、アセテート、キュプラ等の再生繊維や半合成繊維の短繊維を用いることもできる。加えて乾燥性や皺回復性（Ｗ＆Ｗ性）が要求される場合はポリアミドやポリエステル等の合成繊維の短繊維を前記、天然繊維や再生繊維、半合成繊維の短繊維と混紡することも可能である。
【０００９】
本発明の複合糸編物は芯にポリオレフィン弾性繊維を用い、鞘に短繊維を用いた複合糸よりなり、鞘は求められる吸湿特性を保持するために綿繊維が好ましいが、洗濯時の乾燥しやすさや防皺性の要求が強い時は鞘繊維の７０％未満であれば、耐薬品制のあるホ゜リエステルやナイロン等の合成繊維ステーフ゜ルを含んでもかまわないが、３０％以上は綿繊維とすることが望ましい。
【００１０】
肌着用素材の生命線は伸縮性である。締め付け感がなくかつ、身体の線に沿ってフィトすることが望まれる。特に胸囲や胴囲方向に相当するコース方向の伸縮性が重要であり、このために、定荷重伸長率は５０％以上が好ましく、より好ましくは７０％以上である。この伸長率は肌への着圧にも関与し、ソフトな着圧感を付与する意味からも伸長率は高いことが好ましい。コース方向の伸長率は編地の形態安定性や張り腰にも影響し、適度の形態安定性や張り腰を保つ意味から１００％未満とすることが望まれる。
加えて重要なことは、この伸長に対する回復特性であり、伸長回復率は５０％以上、更に好ましくは５５〜７５％が好ましい。５０％を下回ると着用時の伸長歪みが回復せず、たるみとなって着用感を害し、見栄えも良くない。また、御婦人方の隆起に富むボディーラインにも追従しきれない。このような伸縮性、回復性を満足させるためには、弾性糸を複合することが必須である。
また収縮率も重要であり、アイロン収縮率は３％以下が必要である。最も好ましくは０％であるが、仕上げ工程で複雑な処理が必要になり、コスト高をまねき、あまり得策ではない。この特性は繰り返し着用する時の形態安定性にも関与するが、後述する形態再起のために、加えられる熱処理時の寸法変化を制限する意味でも重要である。
【００１１】
布帛中のポリオレフィン弾性繊維の混用率は布帛の伸長応力を左右し、多すぎるとパワーが強くなりすぎ、かえって不快感を与える。加えて架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維は高価であり、混用率が高くなると、経済性でも不利となる。また綿繊維と混用することで、水分に関わる快適性能を持つことが目的であり、この事からも混用率は低いことが好ましく、２０％以下とすることが望ましい。より好ましくは１０％以下であるが、前述した伸縮性能を満足するためには、３％以上が望ましい。混用率は複合紡績する時の芯糸のデニールを変えたり、ドラフト率を変えることで調整できるし、高混率の複合紡績糸と同番手の綿糸と交編することでも調整可能である。
【００１２】
さらに、編地の編組織も重要であり、前述の伸縮性は複合紡績糸の伸長特性とあいまって表現され、ゴム編み組織が好ましく、針抜き等の手法で経柄を付けることも可能である。
伸縮性はややおとるものの、夏季用に編地を薄くする目的で天竺組織に、逆に冬季用にインターロック組織とすることも可能である。ここではパール編みも広義に天竺に含め、鹿の子等の変化組織も含める。
【００１３】
本発明の編地の特徴は熱に対する挙動である。この特徴は複合紡績糸の芯糸に用いた架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸の特性に起因する。架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸は伸長セット性に優れ、２００％伸長以下であれば９０℃以上の乾熱処理、６０℃以上の湿熱処理で形態がほぼ１００％固定され、伸長形態で固定され、再度加熱しない限り形態が保持される。
よって、下着等の繰り返し着用時に加熱しない用途では加熱成型が可能である。充分に加工歪みを除去した編地の幅以上の金型に装着し、蒸気等で加熱することで熱可塑性繊維と同等に形態セットが可能である。このことは編み目構造の固定でもあり、着用中の形態安定化にも効果的で外観品位の向上にも繋がる。しかし、残念なことに再度フリーな状態で熱処理すると、形態はセット前の形態に戻り、加熱処理を必要とする着用形態には適さない。
【００１４】
このことが利点として応用することができる。弾性繊維は多かれ少なかれくり返し伸長によりクリープが生じ、永久歪みとして残る。編地の変形は大別して、ループの変形に起因するものと、原糸自体の変形によるものに大別でき、ループの変形による形状変化は洗濯等で編地に揉み作用を与えることで回復するが、原糸の変形に起因するものは回復不可能である。しかし、架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸はアイロン等の比較的低温でクリープが回復する。下着の耐容限界と判断される１つの現象として首襟口や袖口の伸び、締りが悪く外観不良となる現象がある。しかし、本発明編地はアイロン掛け等の加熱処理で回復が可能である。この時もとの編地の収縮率が充分に小さくないと、縮み過ぎてもとの寸法より小さくなり、編地のアイロン収縮率を３％以下に限定する理由がここにある。本発明の伸縮性編地の用途として、肌着、ショーツ、Ｔシャツ、ポロシャツ、ゴルフシャツ等があり、肌着、ショーツ用途には３０〜５０綿番手の紡績糸が適しており、使用する弾性糸は４４デシテックスから７８デシテックスが適している。編み組織はゴム編み、両面編みが良い。Ｔシャツ、ポロシャツ、ゴルフシャツには２０〜４０綿番手の紡績糸が適しており、使用する弾性糸は７８デシテックスから１５６デシテックスが適している。編み組織は天竺およびその変化組織が良い。
【００１５】
以下、実施例で詳細な説明をするが、本発明の実施形態を限定するものではない。
【００１６】
本発明の評価は以下の方法で実施した。
［定荷重伸長率及び回復率］
「風合い評価の標準化と解析」（日本繊維機械学会編集）の第ＩＶ章「布の力学的特性の測定」に記載の方法にのっとり、測定した。幅２０ｃｍ、長さ５ｃｍの試料を布帛の経方向、緯方向に採取し、長さ方向に４．００×１０ー３／ｓｅｃ一定で、最大荷重５００ｇｆ／ｃｍまで引張り、変形回復過程に移り、最大荷重時の伸長率を求めた。伸長率と変形回復過程の０応力到達時の歪み量の差の伸長率との比率を回復率とし、経方向と緯方向の平均値を伸長率及び回復率とした。
【００１７】
［布帛のアイロン収縮率］
ＪＩＳＬ１０５７「織物及び編物のアイロン収縮率試験方法」のＡ法に順じて測定した。なお、アイロンの温度は１８０℃とした。
【００１８】
［架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の混用率］
使用した架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の繊度を芯鞘型複合紡績時のポリオレフィン繊維のドラフト比で除し、芯鞘型複合紡績糸の繊度との比率を（％）で表示する。この時繊度は綿番手またはデシテックスに換算し、統一する。
【００１９】
［実施例１］
平均繊維長が２６ｍｍの綿繊維よりなる粗糸をフロントローラーとバックローラー間で４８倍にドラフトし、同時に架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維４４テ゛シテックスのモノフィラメントを３．５倍にドラフトしてフロントローラーに供給し、撚係数を３．８として３６ｇの張力下で精紡コップに巻取り、４０綿番手の芯鞘型複合紡績糸を得た。架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の混用率は８．６％であった。該紡績糸を精紡コップに巻いた状態で７０℃で１５分キヤーセットした後、１６ｉｎ．径で１９Ｇのゴム編み機でループ長を５８０ｍｍ／１００ウエールで編物を得た。同布を通常の連続仕上げ工程で、精練、漂白、シルケットをして、最後にサンホライス゛加工を実施した。
なお漂白は亜塩素酸ソーダ（２５％）３５ｇ／リットルで９５℃４５分で実施した。最終上がりのループ長は、」４８０ｍｍ／１００ウエールであった。得られた編物は白度に富み、ソフトな触感を有し、縦横方向に伸縮性、回復性に富む高級感のある編物であった。この織物の定荷重伸長率と収縮率を表１に示した。得られた編物を縫製して紳士肌着とした。この肌着を着用１日毎に家庭洗濯しながら総着用日数が３０日たった時点でウエスト端の幅を測定すると、着用前に比べ約１０％の増大が認められた。そこで１８０℃のスチームアイロンを掛けたところ、同幅はほぼ着用前の寸法に回復した。
【００２０】
［実施例２］
実施例１で得た編地で平面体の婦人肌着を縫製した後、耐熱性の人体模型に装着後、９５℃で１５分キヤーセットした。脱着するとこの肌着はバスト、ウエスト、ヒップが人体模型とほぼ同寸に立体成型された肌着が得られた。この肌着は伸縮性にすぐれ、身体の曲線に沿ってフィットし、どの部分にも締め付け感のない立体肌着であった。
【００２１】
［実施例３］
架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維７８テ゛シテックスのモノフィラメントを３．５倍にドラフトしてフロントローラーに供給し、撚係数を３．８として３６ｇの張力下で精紡コップに巻取り、３０綿番手の芯鞘型複合紡績糸とした以外は実施例１と同法で複合紡績糸を得た。この原糸を用い。２４ゲージの台丸機で天竺組織の編地として実施例１と同法で仕上げ、縫製してＴシャツとした。このシャツは伸縮性に優れ、運動時にも動きやすく、吸汗性にも優れていた。
【００２２】
［実施例４］
編み組織を鹿の子とした以外は実施例３と同法で編地を得、縫製してゴルフシャツとした。このシャツはゴルフのプレー時も運動の疎外感はなく吸汗性にも優れていた。
【００２３】
［比較例１］
実施例１の架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維に変え、ポリウレタン繊維（東洋紡エスパタイプ４６５）とした以外が実施例１と同法で高伸縮編地を得た。同編地はクロライト晒工程で黄変し、伸長率と同回復率は満足できる水準であったが、実施例１に述べた形態記憶性や実施例２で述べた立体成型性は認めたれなかった。
【００２４】
【表１】

【００２５】
【発明の効果】
本発明の編地は伸縮性に富み、身体の曲線にソフトフィットする伸縮編地であり、所望の場合は立体成型も可能であり、くり返し着用により生ずる不可逆歪みも熱処理により回復可能な形態再起をも併せ持つ新規は伸縮性編地であり、肌着やＴシャツ、ゴルフシャツに最適の編地である。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a stretchable knitted fabric that is rich in stretchability and recoverability, does not require three-dimensional sewing, reduces cutting loss, can perform three-dimensional heat setting as needed, and can recover from deformation due to stretching strain, and clothing using the same. It is.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Clothing using elastic knitted fabric adheres to the skin and keeps the body warm, and absorbs the moisture released from the skin and the aging of the skin and keeps the skin surface hygienic It is worn to prevent skin damage due to friction between the role and the inner garment. Beyond the midsummer, it is required to adhere to the skin and not to hinder the operation. For this reason, conventionally, a circular knitted fabric of cotton, particularly a knitted fabric such as rubber knitting or sheeting has been often used. In particular, whiteness is one of the values of underwear, and cotton knitted fabric is generally finished by bleaching with chlorite or the like.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Underwear is a representative example of such clothing, and underwear, particularly underwear for men, is used with a knitting machine having a knitting width that is slightly smaller than the chest or buttocks circumference, and the side portions are used without sewing. However, for women, there are large dimensional differences between the bust, hips and waist, and the only way to obtain underwear that fits the body line is to increase the stretch rate of the knitted fabric or sew and mold. As a method of increasing the elongation rate of the knitted fabric, there is a method of increasing the knitting density, but there is a limit in terms of dimensional stability. On the other hand, a method of weaving an elastic yarn is also conceivable, but there is no elastic yarn that can withstand the essential chlorite exposure. Further, the life of the undergarment is determined by the deterioration due to partial deterioration and discoloration and the deterioration of appearance, and the deterioration due to partial deformation (around the neck and cuffs of the cuffs) due to repeated elongation. It is preferable that the discoloration and deformation can be regenerated even if the rupture is only a product life.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
That is, the present invention has the following constitution.
1. A knitted fabric containing a core-sheath composite spun yarn in which a polyolefin elastic fiber is used as a core and a short fiber is used as a sheath, wherein the knitted fabric has properties in the course direction satisfying the following (1) to (3). Elastic knitted fabric characterized.
(1) Constant load elongation rate is 50% or more.
(2) The recovery rate is 50% or more.
(3) Iron shrinkage rate is 3% or less.
2. 2. The stretchable knitted fabric according to the above item 1, wherein a mixing ratio of the polyolefin elastic fiber is 10% or less.
3. 3. The stretchable knitted fabric according to the first or second item, wherein the knitting structure is any of a sheet of fabric, a rubber knit, and a double-sided knit.
4. An undergarment comprising at least a part of the stretchable knitted fabric according to the first aspect.
5. A T-shirt, wherein the stretchable knitted fabric according to the first aspect is used at least in part.
6. A golf shirt comprising the stretch knitted fabric according to the first aspect at least in part.
[0005]
The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above problems, and as a result, in view of the chemical resistance, heat resistance, soft elongation, and heat setting properties of the crosslinked polyolefin elastic fiber, a composite including conventional spandex, etc. The present invention has achieved the chlorite bleaching step, which cannot be achieved with spun yarn.
[0006]
The polyolefin elastic fiber referred to in the present invention has a uniform branching and refers to an olefin that is substantially linear, and is preferably subjected to a crosslinking treatment from the viewpoint of improving various physical properties such as heat resistance. Fiber.
Here, the olefin fibers which are uniformly branched and are substantially linear are polymers obtained by polymerizing olefin monomers and have a uniform degree of branching.
For example, a low-density polyethylene obtained by copolymerizing an α-olefin or an elastic fiber described in JP-T-8-509530 corresponds to this.
Examples of the cross-linking method include chemical cross-linking using a radical initiator and a coupling agent, and a method of cross-linking by irradiating energy rays. Crosslinking by energy ray irradiation is preferable in consideration of the stability of the product, but the present invention is not limited to these methods.
[0007]
The reasons for using the polyolefin elastic fiber for the core yarn are as follows. One is that the elastic yarn has chemical resistance enough to withstand the chlorite bleaching step required to obtain whiteness and soft texture of cotton. The other is a shape memory property in which, when heat setting is performed with sufficient elongation strain removed, residual strain caused by subsequent repeated elongation returns to a state close to the initial heat set state by subsequent heat treatment. Because it has
[0008]
The fiber used for the sheath of the composite spun yarn gives a soft touch due to fluff, and is preferably a short fiber from the viewpoint of giving a mild luster, and among them, cotton fiber imparts moisture absorption and is more preferable from the viewpoint of wearing durability. Besides, natural short fibers such as silk, hemp and wool, regenerated fibers such as rayon, acetate and cupra, and short fibers of semi-synthetic fibers can also be used. In addition, when dryness and wrinkle recovery (W & W properties) are required, short fibers of synthetic fibers such as polyamide and polyester can be blended with the above-mentioned short fibers of natural fibers, regenerated fibers and semi-synthetic fibers. is there.
[0009]
The knitted composite yarn of the present invention is composed of a composite yarn using a polyolefin elastic fiber for the core and a short fiber for the sheath, and the sheath is preferably a cotton fiber in order to retain required moisture absorption properties, but is easy to dry during washing. When the demand for the anti-wrinkling property is strong, synthetic fiber staples such as polyester and nylon having chemical resistance may be included if the sheath fiber is less than 70% of the sheath fiber, but cotton fiber should be used for 30% or more. desirable.
[0010]
The lifeline of the underwear material is elastic. It is desirable to have a tight feeling and to fit along the body line. In particular, the elasticity in the course direction corresponding to the chest circumference and the waist circumference direction is important. For this reason, the constant load elongation is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 70% or more. This elongation rate is also involved in the pressure applied to the skin, and is preferably high from the viewpoint of imparting a soft feeling of pressure. The elongation rate in the course direction affects the morphological stability and tension of the knitted fabric, and is desirably set to less than 100% in order to maintain appropriate morphological stability and tension.
In addition, what is important is the recovery property against this elongation, and the elongation recovery rate is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 55 to 75%. If it is less than 50%, the elongation strain at the time of wearing is not recovered, and it becomes sagging, impairing the feeling of wearing, and the appearance is not good. In addition, she cannot keep up with the women's prominent body lines. In order to satisfy such elasticity and recoverability, it is essential to compound an elastic yarn.
The shrinkage is also important, and the iron shrinkage must be 3% or less. Most preferably, it is 0%, but complicated processing is required in the finishing step, which results in high cost and is not very advantageous. Although this property also contributes to the form stability when repeatedly worn, it is also important in terms of limiting the dimensional change at the time of applied heat treatment for the form recurrence described later.
[0011]
The mixing ratio of the polyolefin elastic fiber in the fabric affects the elongation stress of the fabric, and if it is too large, the power becomes too strong, and rather gives an unpleasant feeling. In addition, crosslinked polyolefin fibers are expensive, and a high mixing ratio is disadvantageous in terms of economy. In addition, the purpose is to provide comfortable performance relating to moisture by being mixed with cotton fiber, and from this viewpoint, the mixing ratio is preferably low, and is preferably 20% or less. More preferably, it is 10% or less, but in order to satisfy the above-mentioned stretching performance, 3% or more is desirable. The mixing ratio can be adjusted by changing the denier of the core yarn at the time of composite spinning, or by changing the draft ratio, or by mixing and knitting a high-mixing ratio composite spun yarn with a cotton yarn of the same count.
[0012]
Furthermore, the knitting structure of the knitted fabric is also important, and the above-mentioned elasticity is expressed in combination with the elongation characteristics of the composite spun yarn. A rubber knitting structure is preferable, and it is possible to apply a warp by a method such as needle removal. .
Although the elasticity is somewhat low, it is also possible to use an inner fabric for the purpose of thinning the knitted fabric for the summer season and an interlock structure for the winter season. Here, pearl knitting is also broadly included in India, and also includes changing structures such as Kanoko.
[0013]
A feature of the knitted fabric of the present invention is a behavior with respect to heat. This characteristic results from the characteristics of the crosslinked polyolefin elastic yarn used as the core yarn of the composite spun yarn. The crosslinked polyolefin elastic yarn is excellent in elongation setting property. If the elongation is 200% or less, the shape is almost 100% fixed by dry heat treatment at 90 ° C or more and wet heat treatment at 60 ° C or more, fixed in the elongation form, and not heated again. As long as the form is maintained.
Therefore, in applications where heating is not performed during repeated wearing such as underwear, heat molding is possible. By setting the knitted fabric in a mold having a width equal to or larger than the width of the knitted fabric from which the processing distortion has been sufficiently removed and heating it with steam or the like, it is possible to set a form equivalent to that of the thermoplastic fiber. This is also a fixation of the stitch structure, which is effective for stabilizing the form during wearing, and leads to improvement in appearance quality. Unfortunately, when heat treatment is performed again in a free state, the form returns to the form before setting, and is not suitable for a wearing form that requires heat treatment.
[0014]
This can be applied as an advantage. The elastic fibers creep due to more or less repeated elongation and remain as permanent set. The deformation of the knitted fabric can be broadly classified into those caused by the deformation of the loop and those caused by the deformation of the original yarn itself. The shape change due to the deformation of the loop is recovered by applying a kneading action to the knitted fabric by washing or the like. However, those resulting from deformation of the original yarn cannot be recovered. However, the crosslinked polyolefin elastic yarn recovers creep at a relatively low temperature such as an iron. One of the phenomena judged to be the tolerance limit of the underwear is a phenomenon in which the neck collar and cuffs are stretched and tightened, resulting in poor appearance. However, the knitted fabric of the present invention can be recovered by heat treatment such as ironing. At this time, if the original shrinkage of the knitted fabric is not sufficiently small, the shrinkage becomes too small after shrinkage, and the iron shrinkage of the knitted fabric is limited to 3% or less. Examples of the use of the stretchable knitted fabric of the present invention include underwear, shorts, T-shirts, polo shirts, golf shirts, and the like. For underwear and shorts, a spun yarn of 30 to 50 cotton count is suitable. 44 dtex to 78 dtex are suitable. Rubber knitting and double-sided knitting are good. For T-shirts, polo shirts, and golf shirts, a spun yarn of 20 to 40 cotton count is suitable, and an elastic yarn to be used is suitably from 78 dtex to 156 dtex. The knitting structure is preferably a sheet of jersey and its changed structure.
[0015]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, but is not limited to the embodiments of the present invention.
[0016]
The evaluation of the present invention was performed by the following method.
[Constant load elongation rate and recovery rate]
Measurement was carried out according to the method described in Chapter IV “Measurement of Mechanical Properties of Cloth” in “Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evaluation” (edited by the Japan Textile Machine Society). A sample having a width of 20 cm and a length of 5 cm was sampled in the longitudinal and weft directions of the fabric, and 4.00 × 10−3 in the length direction. At a constant / sec, the film was pulled to a maximum load of 500 gf / cm, and the process was shifted to the deformation recovery process, and the elongation at the maximum load was determined. The ratio between the elongation rate and the elongation rate of the difference in the amount of strain at the time of zero stress in the deformation recovery process was defined as the recovery rate, and the average values in the warp and weft directions were defined as the elongation rate and the recovery rate.
[0017]
[Iron shrinkage of fabric]
The measurement was performed according to the method A of JIS L 1057 “Test method for iron shrinkage of woven or knitted fabric”. The temperature of the iron was 180 ° C.
[0018]
[Blending rate of crosslinked polyolefin fiber]
The fineness of the used crosslinked polyolefin fiber is divided by the draft ratio of the polyolefin fiber at the time of the core-sheath composite spinning, and the ratio to the fineness of the core-sheath composite spun yarn is expressed in (%). At this time, the fineness is converted to cotton count or decitex and unified.
[0019]
[Example 1]
A roving made of cotton fiber having an average fiber length of 26 mm is drafted 48 times between the front roller and the back roller, and at the same time, a monofilament of crosslinked polyolefin fiber 44 texite is drafted 3.5 times and supplied to the front roller, The twist coefficient was set to 3.8 and wound around a spinning cup under a tension of 36 g to obtain a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of 40 cotton count. The mixing ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber was 8.6%. After the spun yarn was wound around a spinning cup and set at 70 ° C. for 15 minutes, 16 in. A knitted fabric was obtained using a rubber knitting machine having a diameter of 19 G and a loop length of 580 mm / 100 wale. The fabric was scoured, bleached, and mercerized in the usual continuous finishing process, and finally processed into Sunhorice II.
The bleaching was performed at 95 ° C. for 45 minutes at 35 g / liter of sodium chlorite (25%). The final rising loop length was "480 mm / 100 wale." The obtained knitted fabric was rich in whiteness, had a soft touch, and had a high-class knitted fabric with excellent elasticity and recovery in the vertical and horizontal directions. Table 1 shows the constant load elongation and shrinkage of this woven fabric. The obtained knitted fabric was sewn to make a men's underwear. The width of the waist edge was measured at the time when the total number of wearing days was 30 days while washing the underwear at home every day, and an increase of about 10% was observed as compared to before wearing. Then, when a 180 ° C steam iron was applied, the width recovered to almost the size before wearing.
[0020]
[Example 2]
A flat women's undergarment was sewn with the knitted fabric obtained in Example 1, attached to a heat-resistant human body model, and then set at 95 ° C for 15 minutes. When detached, this underwear was a three-dimensionally molded underwear whose bust, waist, and hips were almost the same size as the human body model. This underwear was a three-dimensional underwear that was excellent in elasticity, fitted along the curve of the body, and had no feeling of tightening in any part.
[0021]
[Example 3]
A monofilament of crosslinked polyolefin fiber 78 dtex is drafted 3.5 times and supplied to a front roller. The twist coefficient is 3.8, and it is wound on a spinning cup under a tension of 36 g. A composite spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spun yarn was used. Using this yarn. Using a 24-gauge round machine, a knitted fabric with a sheeting structure was finished in the same manner as in Example 1 and sewn to obtain a T-shirt. This shirt was excellent in elasticity, easy to move during exercise, and excellent in sweat absorption.
[0022]
[Example 4]
A knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the knitting structure was changed to Kanoko, and sewn to obtain a golf shirt. This shirt did not have the feeling of alienation of exercise even during golf play, and was excellent in sweat absorption.
[0023]
[Comparative Example 1]
A high-stretch knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the crosslinked polyolefin fiber of Example 1 was replaced with a polyurethane fiber (Toyobo Espa type 465). The knitted fabric turned yellow in the chlorite bleaching step, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were at a satisfactory level. However, the shape memory property described in Example 1 and the three-dimensional moldability described in Example 2 were recognized. Did not.
[0024]
[Table 1]

[0025]
【The invention's effect】
The knitted fabric of the present invention is a stretchable knitted fabric which is rich in elasticity and soft-fits to the curve of the body, can be three-dimensionally formed if desired, and has a form that can recover irreversible distortion caused by repeated wearing by heat treatment. The new knitted fabric also has a stretchable knitted fabric, which is optimal for underwear, T-shirts and golf shirts.

Claims

A knitted fabric containing a core-sheath composite spun yarn in which a polyolefin elastic fiber is used as a core and a short fiber is used as a sheath, wherein characteristics of the knitted fabric in the course direction satisfy the following (1) to (3). Elastic knitted fabric characterized.
(1) Constant load elongation rate is 50% or more.
(2) The recovery rate is 50% or more.
(3) Iron shrinkage rate is 3% or less.

The stretchable knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a mixing ratio of the polyolefin elastic fiber is 10% or less.

The stretch knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the knitting structure is one of a sheet of fabric, a rubber knit, and a double-sided knit.

An undergarment comprising at least a part of the stretch knitted fabric according to claim 1.

A T-shirt using the stretchable knitted fabric according to claim 1 for at least a part thereof.

A golf shirt comprising at least a part of the stretchable knitted fabric according to claim 1.