FR3144513A1 - Composition comprising at least N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, at least one direct dye, and at least one associative polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof; b) at least one direct dye ;c) at least one associative polymer.

Description

Composition comprising at least N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, at least one direct dye, and at least one associative polymer

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, at least one direct dye and at least one associative polymer.

For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their white hair.

We know two main methods of coloring human keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

One of these two modes is oxidation or permanent coloring. This coloring method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.

In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, provide access to colored species.

Very often, the nuances obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by associating them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indolic compounds.

The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors. This type of coloring also allows permanent coloring to be obtained, but the use of oxidizing agents can lead to degradation of the keratin fibers.

The second method of coloring, called direct or semi-permanent coloring, includes the application of direct dyes which are molecules having an affinity for fibers and dyes even in the absence of oxidizing agent added in the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend to remain on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little into the interior of the fiber, compared to the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.

The direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrated benzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridinic, azoic, methinic, azomethinic, xanthenic, acridinic, azinic or triarylmethane direct dyes. The chemical species used can be non-ionic, anionic (acidic dyes) or cationic (basic dyes). Direct dyes can also be natural dyes.

Hair coloring using natural direct dyes has been known since antiquity.

Compositions containing one or more natural direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloring, then rinsed.

However, the resulting colorings are colorings which can be particularly chromatic but temporary or semi-permanent because their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fiber is responsible for their lack of tinctorial power and their poor resistance to washing. . In addition, these compositions require relatively long exposure times. They can vary from several tens of minutes to several hours (one night) depending on the desired intensity, without being able to control the result. The result varies depending on the fibers to be colored and the nature of the natural dye(s) used.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which does not present the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say which is capable of to lead to a good rise, intensity and chromaticity of the color, while having a low selectivity and good tenacity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performances, even after a period of storage, while having good qualities of 'use.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:

a) at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures;
b) at least one direct dye;
c) at least one associative polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce chromatic colorings that are powerful, intense and not very selective, that is to say colorings which are homogeneous along the fiber. It also allows you to achieve different shades in a very wide palette of colors. In addition, it allows good rise and good color tenacity.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good qualities of use, in particular a creamy texture and easy and homogeneous distribution over the entire hair. The composition according to the invention has good stability over time, in particular little change, or even no change, in its viscosity and/or its pH during storage.

The expression “ at least one ” means one or more.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair” means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.

N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures.

The salts include alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA). For example, we will use Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

Advantageously, the total content of compounds chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight. weight, more preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, better still 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.075 to 2% by weight, or even 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.075 to 2% by weight, or even 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Direct dye

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye.

By “ direct dye ” we mean colored species. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

The direct dye(s) which can be used according to the invention are chosen from natural direct dyes, synthetic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the direct dye(s) which can be used according to the invention are chosen from ionic direct dyes and non-ionic direct dyes, more particularly from cationic direct dyes, amphoteric direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, non-ionic direct dyes, -ionics, and their mixtures.

The direct dyes are for example chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitrated benzene direct dyes, neutral azo (non-ionic), acidic (anionic) or cationic direct dyes, tetraazapentamethinic dyes, quinone and in particular neutral anthraquinone dyes, acidic or cationic, azinic direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, azomethinic direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

The cationic direct dye(s) contain at least one quaternized cationic chromophore or at least one chromophore carrying a quaternized or quaternizable cationic group.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic direct dyes comprise at least one quaternized cationic chromophore.

As direct cationic dyes according to the invention, mention may be made of acridine dyes; acridones; anthrathrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azo, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzantrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavantrones and flavones; fluorindins; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoides and pseudo-indigoides; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthrones; lactones; (poly)methines such as stilbene or styryl dimethines; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, in particular nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes/carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrones; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthrones; pyronins; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.

For cationic azo dyes, we can particularly cite those derived from cationic dyes described in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & sons, updated on 04/19/2010.

Among the azo dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the direct dye(s) are chosen from cationic dyes called “basic dyes”.

We can cite among the azo dyes described in the Color Index International 3rd edition, and in particular the following compounds:

-Basic Red 22

-Basic Red 76

-Basic Yellow 57

-Basic Brown 16

-Basic Brown 17

Among the cationic quinone dyes those mentioned in the aforementioned International Color Index are suitable, and among these, we can cite, among others, the following dyes:

-Basic Blue 22

-Basic Blue 99.

Among the suitable azinic dyes we can cite those listed in the Color Index International and for example the following dyes:

-Basic Blue 17

-Basic Red 2.

Among the cationic triarylmethane dyes which can be used according to the invention, we can cite, in addition to those listed in the Color Index, the following dyes:

-Basic Green 1

-Basic Purple 3

-Basic Violet 14

-Basic Blue 7

-Basic Blue 26.

We can also cite cationic dyes in documents US 5888252, EP 1133975, WO 03/029359, EP 860636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144, EP 714954. We can also cite those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academic press vol 1 to 7, in the encyclopedia "Kirk-Othmer" "Chemical technology", chapter "Dyes and Dye intermediate", 1993, Wiley and sons, and in various chapters from the encyclopedia "ULLMANN's ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial chemistry" 7th edition, Wiley and sons.

Preferably, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from those derived from azo and hydrazono type dyes.

According to a particular embodiment, the direct dyes are cationic azo, described in EP 850636, FR 2788433, EP 920856, WO 9948465, FR 2757385, EP 850637, EP 918053, WO 9744004, FR 2570946, FR 2285851, DE 25 38363, FR 2189006, FR 1560664, FR 1540423, FR 1567219, FR 1516943, FR 1221122, DE 4220388, DE 4137005, WO 0166646, US 5708151, WO 9501772, WO 515144, GB 11 95386, US 3524842, US 5879413, EP 1062940, EP 1133976, GB 738585, DE 2527638, FR 2275462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem. (1978), 61(1), 48-52; Tsitologiya (1968), 10(3), 403-5; Zh. Obshch. Khim. (1970), 40(1), 195-202; Ann. Chem. (Rome) (1975), 65(5-6), 305-14; Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei) (1998), 45(1), 209-211; Rev. Rum. Chem. (1988), 33(4), 377-83; Text. Res. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7; Chem. Ind. (Milan) (1974), 56(9), 600-3; Khim. Tekhnol. (1979), 22(5), 548-53; Ger. Monatsh. Chem. (1975), 106(3), 643-8; MRL Bull. Res. Dev. (1992), 6(2), 21-7; Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence (1993), 29(4), 233-4; Dyes Pigm. (1992), 19(1), 69-79; Dyes Pigm. (1989), 11(3), 163-72.

Preferably, the cationic direct dye(s) comprise a quaternary ammonium group, more preferably the cationic charge is endocyclic.

These cationic radicals are for example a cationic radical:

- with an exocyclic charge (di/tri)(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylammonium, or

-Endocyclic load such as including a cationic heteroaryle group chosen from: acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bi-pyridinium, olium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phenazinium, phenooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium, quinolium, tetrazolium, thiadiazolium, th iazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium or xanthylium.

Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formula (C-II) and (C-III), the azo dyes of formulas (C-IV) and (C-V) following, as well as their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers, their salts of acids or bases, organic or mineral, as well as their solvates such as hydrates:

Hét ⁺ -C(R _a )=NN(R _b )-Ar, Q ^- (C-II)

Hét ⁺ -N(R _a )-N=C(R _b )-Ar, Q ^- (C-III)

Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar, Q ^- (C-IV)

Ar ⁺ -N=N-Ar'', Q ^- (CV),

formulas (C-II) to (C-V) in which:

* Hét ⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally preferentially substituted by at least one (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl group such as methyl;

* Ar ⁺ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

* Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donor groups such as i) (C ₁ -C ₈ ) optionally substituted alkyl, ii) (C ₁ -C ₈ ) optionally substituted alkoxy, iii) (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino, v) N-(C ₁ -C ₈ ) optionally substituted alkyl-N-aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino or Ar represents a julolidine group;

* Ar'' represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as optionally substituted phenyl or pyrazolyl, preferably by one or more (C1-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino, ( C1-C8)alkoxy or phenyl;

* R _a and R _b , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

* or the Ra substituent with a Het ⁺ substituent and/or R _b with an Ar substituent form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly R _a and R _b , representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

* Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

Particularly, mention may be made of direct dyes with azo and hydrazono endocyclic cationic charges of formula (C-II) to (C-V) as defined above; more particularly the cationic direct dyes of formula (C-II) to (C-V) with endocyclic cationic charges described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

Preferably, the following direct dyes can be cited:
(C-II-1),
(C-IV-1),

formulas (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) in which:

- R ¹ represents a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl; And

- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron donor group such as (C ₁ -C ₈ ) optionally substituted alkyl, (C ₁ -C ₈ ) optionally substituted alkoxy, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ ) (alkyl) amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,

- Q ^- is an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl or mesytyl sulfate.

Particularly the dyes of formula (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives:
Basic Red 51
Basic Orange 31
Basic Yellow 87,

with Q' an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl or mesytyl sulfate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are fluorescent, that is to say they contain at least one fluorescent chromophore as defined above.

As fluorescent dyes, we can cite radicals from acridines, acridones, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyrans, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN) dyes. methyl]-1H-pyrrolato-kN}bores (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolo-pyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (including cyanines and styryls/hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamine (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones , perinones, perylenes, polyenes/carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes, xanthenes.

We can also cite the fluorescent dyes described in documents EP 1133975, WO 03/029359, EP 860636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144, EP 714954 and those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academic press vol 1 to 7, in the "Kirk-Othmer" encyclopedia "Chemical technology", chapter "Dyes and Dye intermediate", 1993, Wiley and sons, and in various chapters of the "ULLMANN's" encyclopedia. ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial chemistry" 7th edition, Wiley and sons, in The Handbook — A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies, 10th Ed Molecular Probes/Invitrogen – Oregon 2005 distributed via the Internet or in previous printed editions.

According to a variant of the invention, the cationic dye(s) are fluorescent and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium radical such as those of formula (C-VI) below, as well as their optical, geometric, tautomer isomers, their acid salts or bases, organic or mineral, as well as their solvates such as hydrates:

W ⁺ –[C(R _c )=C(R _d )] _m' –Ar, Q ^- (C-VI),

formula (C-VI) in which:

* W ⁺ represents a cationic heterocyclic or heteroaryl group, particularly comprising a quaternary ammonium optionally substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl groups optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups;

* Ar representing an aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, optionally preferentially substituted by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine; ii) one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl groups, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl, vi) one or more amino or (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino groups, preferably with the C ₁ -C alkyl part ₄ optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl such as (di)hydroxyethylamino, vii) by one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as pyperazinyl, pyperidinyl or 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl such as pyrrolidinyl, pyridinyl and imidazolinyl;

* m' represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 4, particularly m is 1 or 2; more preferably 1;

* R _c , R _d , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl group, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ , or R _c contiguous to W ⁺ and/or R _d contiguous to Ar form with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl, particularly R _c is contiguous to W ⁺ and form a (hetero)cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl;

* Q ^- is an organic or mineral anionic counterion as defined previously.

Among the cationic direct dyes, mention may also be made of the cationic triarylmethane dyes.

Preferably, the direct cationic triarylmethane dye(s) according to the invention are chosen from the following cationic dyes of formulas (C-VII) and (C-VII'):
(C-VII),
(C-VII'),

as well as its addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, its geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and its mesomeric forms, its solvates such as hydrates,

previous formulas (C-VII) and (C-VII’) in which:

* R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxy group; aryl such as phenyl, aryl(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl such as benzyl, heteroaryl, heteroaryl(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, or two groups R ₁ and R ₂ , and/or R ₃ and R ₄ , carried by the same nitrogen atom form together with the nitrogen atom which carries them an optionally substituted heterocycloalkyl group such as morpholino, piparazino, piperidino, preferably R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group,

* R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₉ , R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, halogen, or a group chosen from i) hydroxy, ii) thiol, iii) amino iv) (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino, v) (di)arylamino such as (di)phenylamino, vi) nitro, vii) acylamino (-NR-C(O)R') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical; viii) carbamoyl ((R) ₂ NC(O)-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; ix) carboxylic acid or ester, (-OC(O)R') or

(-C(O)OR'), in which the radical R' is a hydrogen atom, or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is an alkyl radical C ₁ -C ₂ ; x) alkyl optionally substituted in particular by a hydroxy group; xi) alkylsulfonylamino (R'SO ₂ -NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' represents a radical C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulfonyl ((R) ₂ N-SO ₂ ^- ) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, xiii) (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkoxy, and xiv) (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylthio;

* Or two radicals carried by two contiguous carbon atoms R ₅ and R ₆ and/or R ₇ and R ₈ , and/or R ₉ and R ₁₀ and/or R ₁₁ and R ₁₂ and/or R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ and/or R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ form together with the carbon atoms which carry them a condensed 6-membered aryl or heteroaryl ring, preferably benzo, said ring being additionally optionally substituted, preferably an unsubstituted benzo ring;

* Q ^- represents an anionic counterion to achieve electroneutrality, preferably chosen from halides such as chloride, bromide, and phosphate.

When the cationic dye comprises one or more anionic substituents such as COOR or SO ₃ R with R denoting hydrogen or a cation, it is understood that there are then more cationic substituents than anionic substituents, so that the resulting charge overall triarylmethane structure is cationic.

According to a preferred embodiment, the triarylmethane dye(s) of the invention is/are chosen from those of formula (C-VII) or (C-VII'), in which, taken together or separately ,

- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl,

- R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₉ , R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, such that chlorine, or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, an amino group, a (di)(C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)amino group and, preferably, at least one of the R groups ₉ , R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ or R ₁₂ represents a hydrogen atom, halogen (Cl), or an amino group, or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)amino or (di)(C ₁₎ group -C ₄ )(alkyl)amino, preferably in the para position of the phenyl group.

Preferably, the direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure are chosen from Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO ₂ R or SO ₃ R substituent with R designating a hydrogen atom or a cation coming from a metal or an amine, or an ion ammonium. The anionic (acid) dyes can be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azinic acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoaminic acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoids acids and natural acid dyes.

According to the invention, the anionic direct dye(s) can be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulas (A-II), (A-II'), (A-III), (A-III '), (A-IV), (A-IV'), (A-V), (A-V'), (A-VI), (A-VII), (A-VIII) and (A-IX) following:

a) diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (A-II) or (A-II'):
(A-II)
(A-II'),

formulas (A-II) and (A-II’) in which:

* R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₉ , R ₁₀ , R' ₇ , R' ₈ , R' ₉ and R' ₁₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X'', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO ^- -, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

- R''-S(O) ₂ -, with R'' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;

- R'''-S(O) ₂ -X'- with R''' representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X' as defined above;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ and iv) alkoxy with M ⁺ as defined above;

- optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group;

- cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl,

- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups, (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M+ or phenylamino;

- or two contiguous groups R ₇ with R ₈ or R ₈ with R ₉ or R ₉ with R ₁₀ together form a fused benzo A'group; and R' ₇ with R' ₈ or R' ₈ with R' ₉ or R' ₉ with R' ₁₀ together form a benzo B' fused group; with A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X''-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X'' and Ar as defined previously;

* W represents a sigma s bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) –NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(R _a )(R _b )- with R _a and R _b , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or R _a and R _b together with the carbon atom which carries them form a cycloalkyl spiro; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or R _a and R _b together form a cyclohexyl;

it being understood that formulas (A-II) and (A-II') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ or a carboxylate radical (O)CO ^- -, M ⁺ on one of cycles A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate;

As an example of dyes of formula (A-II), we can cite: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32 , Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;

and as an example of dyes of formula (A-II'), we can cite: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38;

b) the azo anionic pyrrazolone dyes of formula (A-III) and (A-III'):

(A-III)
(A-III'),

formulas (A-III) and (A-III’) in which:

* R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O) ₂ S(O ^- ), M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined above;

* R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O ^- group, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined above;

* R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom;

* R ₁₆ represents an oxo group in which case R' ₁₆ is absent, or R ₁₅ with R ₁₆ together form a double bond;

* R ₁₇ and R ₁₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

- Ar-OS(O) ₂ - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;

* R ₁₉ and R ₂₀ , together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, optionally substituted;

* R' ₁₆ , R' ₁₉ and R' ₂₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group;

* R ₂₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl, or alkoxy group;

* R _a and R _b , identical or different, are as defined above, preferably R _a represents a hydrogen atom and R _b represents an aryl group;

* Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group;

* represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group;

it being understood that formulas (A-III) and (A-III') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ₊ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O ^- , M ⁺ on one of cycles D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;

As an example of dyes of formula (A-III), we can cite: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as an example of dyes of formula (A-III' ) we can cite: Acid Yellow 17;

c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (A-IV) and (A-IV'):
(A-IV),
(A-IV')

formulas (A-IV) and (A-IV') in which:

* R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ , R ₂₅ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₇ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined above;

- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined above;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

* Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR ₂₈ R ₂₉ group with R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;

- aryl optionally substituted by one or more particularly i) alkyl groups such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R°, X'' as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;

- cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl;

* Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR' ₂₈ R' ₂₉ with R' ₂₈ and R' ₂₉ , identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ as defined previously;

it being understood that formulas (A-IV) and (A-IV') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O ^- , M ⁺ ; preferably sodium sulfonate;

As an example of dyes of formula (A-IV), we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT purple No. 2;

and as an example of dyes of formula (A-IV') we can cite: Acid Black 48;

d) nitrate dyes of formula (AV), and (A-V'):
(AV)
(A-V')

formulas (A-V) and (A-V’) in which:

* R ₃₀ , R ₃₁ and R ₃₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- polyhaloalkyl;

- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R°; X, X’ and X’’ as defined previously;

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

- (O)CO ^- -, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;

- heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino;

particularly R ₃₀ , R ₃₁ and R ₃₂ represent a hydrogen atom;

* R _c and R _d , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

* W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a –NH– group;

* ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched, C1-C6 alkylene group; particularly ALK represents a –CH ₂ -CH ₂ - group;

* n is 1 or 2;

* p represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 5;

* q represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 4;

* u is 0 or 1;

* when n is 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso, group; particularly nitro;

* when n is 2, J represents an atom of oxygen, sulfur, or a divalent radical –S(O) _m – with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical –SO ₂ –;

* M’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

* present or absent represents a benzo group,

optionally substituted by one or more R ₃₀ groups as defined above;

it being understood that the formulas (AV) and (A-V') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O ^- , M ⁺ ; preferably sodium sulfonate;

As an example of dyes of formula (A-V) we can cite: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; as an example of dyes of formula (A-V') we can cite: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino acid 5- nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-b-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (A-VI):
(A-VI)

formula (A-VI) in which:

* R ₃₃ , R ₃₄ , R ₃₅ and R ₃₆ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a (O)mS(O ^- )-, M ⁺ group with M ⁺ and m as defined above;

* R ₃₇ , R ₃₈ , R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ , R ₄₁ , R ₄₂ , R ₄₃ and R ₄₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X'', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO ^- -, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

- or two contiguous groups R ₄₁ with R ₄₂ or R ₄₂ with R ₄₃ or R ₄₃ with R ₄₄ together form a fused group benzo: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ ; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X''-; with M+, R°, X, X', X'' as defined previously;

particularly R ₃₇ to R ₄₀ represent a hydrogen atom, and R ₄₁ to R ₄₄ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ ; and when R ₄₃ with R ₄₄ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by a (O) ₂ S(O ^- )- group;

it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I' comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O ^- )- or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O ^- ; preferably sulfonate.

As an example of dyes of formula (A-VI), we can cite: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50;

f) dyes derived from xanthene of formula (A-VII):
(A-VII)

formula (A-VII) in which:

* R ₄₅ , R ₄₆ , R ₄₇ and R ₄₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;

* R ₄₉ , R ₅₀ , R ₅₁ and R ₅₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO ^- -, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

particularly R ₅₃ , R ₅₄ , R ₅₅ and R ₄₈ represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;

* G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an NR _e group with R _e as defined above; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;

* L represents an O ^- , M ⁺ alkoxide; a thioalcoholate S ^- , M ⁺ or an NR _f group, with R _f representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M ⁺ as defined above; M ⁺ is particularly sodium or potassium;

* L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur or an ammonium group: N ⁺ R _f R _g , with R _f and R _g , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group optionally substituted; The represents particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O) _m S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with m and M ⁺ as defined above;

* Q and Q’, identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;

*M ⁺ is as defined previously.

As an example of dyes of formula (A-VII), we can cite: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;

g) dyes derived from indole of formula (A-VIII):
(A-VIII),

formula (A-VIII) in which:

* R ₅₃ , R ₅₄ , R ₅₅ , R ₅₆ , R ₅₇ , R ₅₈ , R ₅₉ and R ₆₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X'', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ with M ⁺ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO ^- -, M ⁺ with M ⁺ as defined previously;

* G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an NR _e group with R _e as defined above; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;

* R _i and R _h , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

it being understood that formula (A-VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O ^- , M ⁺ ; preferably sodium sulfonate;

As an example of dyes of formula (A-VIII), we can cite: Acid Blue 74.

h) dyes derived from quinoline of formula (A-IX):
(A-IX),

formula (A-IX) in which:

* R ₆₁ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or an alkyl group;

* R ₆₂ , R ₆₃ , and R ₆₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (O)2S(O ^- )- group, M ⁺ with M ⁺ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;

* or R ₆₁ with R ₆₂ , or R ₆₁ with R ₆₄ , together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O)2S(O ^- )- groups, M ⁺ with M ⁺ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

it being understood that formula (A-IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O ^- )-, M ⁺ preferably sodium sulfonate.

As an example of dyes of formula (A-IX) we can cite: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

More particularly, the coloring composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:

(C.I. 45380) Acid Red 87 (A-VII) (Cl. 10316) Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid (A-V’) (CL 10383) Acid Orange 3 (A-V) (Cl. 13015) Acid Yellow 9 / Food Yellow 2 (A-II) (Cl. 14780) / Direct Red 45 / Food Red 13 (A-II) (CL 13711) Acid Black 52 (A-II) (Cl. 13065) Acid Yellow 36 (A-II) (Cl. 14700) Sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2-(2',4'-xylyl-5-sufonatoazo)-naphthalene-4-sulfonic acid / Food Red 1 (A-II) (CL 14720) Acid Red 14 / Food Red 3 / Mordant Blue 79 (A-II)
(C. l. 14805) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-[(2-metoxy-5-.nitrophenyl)diaza]-6-(phenylamino)naphthalene-2-sulfonic acid / Acid Brown 4 (A-II) (Cl. 15510) Acid Orange 7 / Pigment Orange 17 / Solvent Orange 49 (A-II) (Cl. 15985) Food Yellow 3 / Pigment Yellow 104 (A-II) (Cl. 16185) Acid Red 27 / Food Red 9 (A-II) (CL 16230) Acid Orange 10 / Food Orange 4 (A-II) (Cl. 16250) Acid Red 44 (A-II) (Cl. 17200) Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12 (A-II) (Cl. 15685) Acid Red 184 (A-II) (CL 19125) Acid Violet 3 (A-II) (I.C. 18055) Sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2-(4'-acetamido phenylazo)-8-acetamido-naphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid / Acid Violet 7 / Food Red 11 (A-II) (Cl. 18130) Acid Red 135 (A-II) (CL 19130) Acid Yellow 27(A-III) (CL 19140) Acid Yellow 23 / Food Yellow 4 (A-III) (C.l. 20170) 4'-(sulfonato-2'',4''-dimethyl)-bis-(2,6-phenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxy benzene / Acid Orange 24 (A-II) (CL 20470) Sodium salt of 1-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-naphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid / Acid Black 1 (A-II) (Cl. 23266) (4-((4-methylphenyl) sulfonyloxy)-phenylazo)2,2'-dimethyl-4-((2-hydroxy-5,8-disulfonato)naphthylazo)biphenyl / Acid Red 111 (A-II’) (Cl. 27755) Food Black 2 (A-II) (Cl. 25440) 1-(4'-sulfonatophenylazo)-4-((2"-hydroxy-3"-acetylamino-6",8"-disulfonato)naphthylazo)-6-sulfonatonaphthalene (tetrasodium salt) / Food Black 1 (A-II) (C.I. 42090) Acid Blue 9 (A-VI) (C.I. 60730) Acid Violet 43 (A-IV) (I.C. 61570) Acid Green 25 (A-IV) (I.C. 62045) Sodium salt of 1-amino-4-cyclohexylamino-9,10-anthraquinone 2-sulfonic acid / Acid Blue 62 (A-IV) (C.I. 62105) Acid Blue 78 (A-IV) (I.C. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3((2-methoxy phenyl)-azo)-1-naphthalene sulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (A-II) 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid (V’) 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid (A-V') 4-β-Hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene acid
Sulfonic (A-V') (C.I. 42640) Acid Violet 49 (A-VI) (C.I. 42080) Acid Blue 7 (A-VI) (C.I. 58005) 1,2-dihydroxy-3-sulfo-anthraquinone sodium salt / Mordant Red 3 (A-IV) (I.C. 62055) Sodium salt of 1-amino-9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-4-(phenylamino) 2-anthracene sulfonic acid / Acid Blue 25 (A-IV) (I.C. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)-azo)-1-naphthalene sulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (A-II)

Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Color Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colorists, P.O. Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD1 2JBN England.

The more particularly preferred anionic dyes are the dyes designated in the Color Index under the code C.I. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), C.I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-1-anthracenyl)-amino]-5-methyl-benzene sulfonic acid), C.I. 15510 (monosodium salt of acid 4 -[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthalenyl)-azo]-benzene sulfonic acid), C.I. 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)-azo]-2-naphthalene sulfonic acid), C.I. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalene disulfonic acid), C.I. 20470 (disodium salt of 1-amino-2-(4'- nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalene disulfonic acid), C.I. 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl[3-sulfophenyl)-methyl]-amino ]-phenyl](2-sulfophenyl)-methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, internal salt), C.I. 61570 (disodium salt of 2,2'-[(9 ,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-1,4-anthracenediyl)-diimino]-bis-[5-methyl]-benzene sulfonic acid.

It is also possible to use compounds corresponding to the mesomeric, tautomeric forms of structures (A-II) to (A-IX).

Among the natural direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orcein. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or henna-based extracts can also be used.

Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from acidic direct dyes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the direct dye(s) are chosen from acidic direct dyes, preferably from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo direct dyes, acidic azinic direct dyes, direct dyes triarylmethane acids, indoamine acid direct dyes, anthraquinone acid direct dyes, indigoid acid direct dyes, natural acid direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total content of the direct dye(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0. .05 to 5% by weight, even better, from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the direct acid dye(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better, from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Associative polymer

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative polymer.

It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

By “ hydrophobic group ” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon and more preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

Associative polymers can be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric in nature.

Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, we can cite:

- (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

Among these anionic associative polymers, the polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylates are particularly preferred according to the invention. lower alkyls, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate , allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Among the latter, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) and stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10).

- (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C10-C30) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

Alkyl esters (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate , dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to patents US-3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C _{10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (C 10} -C ₃₀ unit) will be used more particularly. hydrophobic), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C ₁₀ alkyl acrylate -C ₃₀ (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

Among said polymers above, according to the present invention, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TR1®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferably PEMULEN TR1®, and the product sold by the company S.E.P.P.I.C. under the name COATEX SX®.

We can also cite the acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the Company ISP.

- (c) maleic anhydride/C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride/C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

- (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

i) approximately 20 to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

ii) approximately 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer different from [A],

iii) approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,

such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate ethoxylated behenyl alcohol terpolymer (40 EO) in aqueous dispersion at 25%.

- (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferably these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C ₁ -C ₄ alcohol.

As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS.

Advantageously, the anionic associative polymer(s) are chosen from acrylic associative polymers, more preferably carboxylic acrylic associative polymers.

Particularly preferably, the anionic associative polymer(s) are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated and an ester of a carboxylic acid with α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated and a fatty alcohol. oxyalkylenated.

Among the associative polymers of the cationic type, we can cite:

- (a) cationic associative polyurethanes whose family has been described by the applicant in French patent application No.-0009609; it can be represented by the following general formula (IV):
RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' (IV)
in which :
R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L";
L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group;
r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25,
n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000;
the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

- (b) quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with non-cyclic amino side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives may in particular be:
quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radicals carried by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl celluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA.

- (c) cationic polyvinyllactams whose family has been described by the applicant in French patent application No.-0101106.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

Such polymers are described in patent application WO-00/68282, the content of which is an integral part of the invention.

As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamido propylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide terpolymers are used in particular. thacrylamide/tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride.

The molecular weight by weight of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000. It is more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and even more preferably between 400,000 and 800,000. .

The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, we prefer those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole% of monomer comprising a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, relative to the number total moles of monomers.

The weight average molecular weights of the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention can vary from 500 to 50,000,000 and are preferably between 10,000 and 5,000,000.

Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO9844012.

Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers are preferred.

The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from:

- (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; we can cite as an example:

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C ₈ -C ₂₂ , more preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ such as for example the cetyl group, such as the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL,

- those modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL.

- (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205 -1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

- (3) copolymers of methacrylates or acrylates of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyls and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the methyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

- (4) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

- (5) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic chains.

- (6) polymers with an ether aminoplast skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

- (7) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; we can cite as an example:

- ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.

- ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.

Preferably, the polyethers polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more hanging chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblocked, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be grafts or stars.

The non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

As examples of non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain, one can also use Rheolate 205 with a urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rheolates 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184, 'Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company ROHM & HAAS [ACULYN 46 is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate ) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44 is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39 %) and water (26%)].

We can also cite the product ELFACOS T210 with a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212 with a C ₁₈ alkyl chain from AKZO.

The product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS with a C ₂₀ alkyl chain and urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

We can also use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include Rhéolate 255, Rhéolate 278 and Rhéolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX. You can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380,389 (1993).

Advantageously, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from non-ionic, cationic associative polymers and their mixtures, preferably from non-ionic associative polymers, more preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups, preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ , better still, from cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight. , better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of nonionic associative polymer(s) chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups, preferably in C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ , better, among cetylhydroxyethylcellulose ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-silicone fatty substance

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance.

By “fatty substance” is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fatty substances present in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The non-silicone fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

By “non-silicone fatty substance” is meant a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and by “silicone fatty substance” a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) according to the invention are different from fatty acids.

The non-silicone fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid non-silicone fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid non-silicone fatty substances. By liquid fatty substance we mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa) and by solid fatty substance we mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential calorimetric analysis or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

More particularly, the liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) may be chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils. of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and their mixtures.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly present at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

Concerning the liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, we can cite perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oils, corn oils, soy, squash, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides from caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

Concerning fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and 1,3-perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the Company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the 3M Company, or even bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the Atochem Company; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the 3M Company.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 atoms. of carbon. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, we will use oleic alcohol.

With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear at C1 to C26 or branched at C3 to C26 and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear at C1 to C26 or branched at C3 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

Among the monoesters, we can cite dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; acetyl methyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isonate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-alcohols can also be used. or C2 to C26 pentahydroxy.

We can in particular cite: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides described previously.

As suitable sugars, we can cite for example sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. particularly alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated fatty acids. or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and diesters are used and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and their mixtures.

As an example, we can cite the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol.

According to one embodiment, the non-silicone fatty substances useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 atoms of carbon, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and their mixtures, preferably among liquid C ₆ to C _{16 hydrocarbons,} liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms , and their mixtures.

Solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty alcohol” is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R designating a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols likely to be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachydic alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-alcohols can also be used. or pentahydroxylated at C2-C26.

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, stearyl stearate, hexyl, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and their mixtures.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than approximately 40°C and which can go up to at 200°C, and presenting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or diffuse light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by reducing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, we obtain a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

We can in particular cite hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of organic origin, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also cite microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

We can also cite polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at C8 to C32. Among these, we can in particular cite isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, l hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by the HETERENE company.

We can also use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes composed a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax , such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beewax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; we can cite in particular the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R ³ CH(OH)CH(CH ₂ OR ² )(NHCOR ¹ ), in which:

R ¹ designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid;

R ² denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) _n group, a (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;

R ³ designates a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R ³ can also designate a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ alpha-hydroxy acid.

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ² designates a hydrogen atom and R ³ designates a saturated linear C ₁₅ group.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ¹ designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ³ designates a group -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ .

It is also possible to use compounds for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ² designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R ³ designates a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH ₂₎₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, ceramides and their mixtures, preferably from ceramides.

You can also use butters.

By “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a start melting temperature greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature less than 60°C.

Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Bornean butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, butter of Illipé, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), butter of Murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica) , apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea) , sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called “almonds” or “walnuts”) of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat which is generally extracted and refined.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferably chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 atoms of carbon, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and their mixtures; more preferably still among liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, better still among liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, better still among hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, better still 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) chosen from liquid fatty substances ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight. , better from 2 to 6% by weight, better still from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) chosen from liquid C ₆ to C _{16 hydrocarbons,} liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, better still from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactant

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cationic surfactant.

Said cationic surfactants are different from cationic associative polymers as described above.

The term “cationic surfactant” means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the compositions according to the invention.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and mixtures thereof.

The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.

Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amines, we can cite stearylamine, stearyldimethylamine, distearylamine.

As fatty amines, we can also cite amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

By fatty amidoamine is meant an amidoamine comprising at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl (di)(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl amines and their salts, better still from (C ₁₄ -C ₂₆ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl (di)(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl amines and their salts, preferably among (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₄ )alkyl (di)( C ₁ -C ₂ )alkyl amines and their salts; more preferably still among (C ₁₈ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₄ )alkyl (di)(C ₁ -C ₂ )alkyl amine and their salts.

Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the following amidoamines of formula (A): RCONHR''N(R') ₂ (A)

in which :

- R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₅ -C alkyl radical ₂₉ , preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ , linear or branched, or a C ₅ -C ₂₉ alkenyl radical, preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ linear or branched;

- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; And

- R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical .

As fatty amidoamines which may be used, the following may be cited, alone or in a mixture: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethyl amine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their salts.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from, alone or in mixture, as well as their salts,

- brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula RC(O)-N(H)-(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N(CH ₃ ) ₂ ;

in which RC(O) is a fatty acid derived from brassica campestris seed oil (rapeseed oil), with a majority of behenyl group (C ₂₂ );

- stearamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH ₃ -(CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -C(O)-N(H)-(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N(CH ₃ ) ₂ ;

- behenamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH ₃ -(CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -C(O)-N(H)-(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N(CH ₃ ) ₂ ;

- oleamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, we can cite, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (X):
(X),

in which the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can include heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ )amidoalkyl(C ₂ -C ₆ ), alkyl(C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )acetate, and hydroxyalkyl C ₁ -C ₃₀ , X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides are preferred, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular the chlorides of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula (XI) below:
(XI),

in which R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulphonates.

Preferably, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from fatty acids from tallow or palm oil, R ₁₄ designates a methyl group, R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. Another product is for example marketed under the name Quaternium 87 by the company Evonik;

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of the following formula (XII):
(XII),

in which R ₁₆ designates an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a group -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N+(R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a ), R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different ^, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising _from 1 _to 4 carbon atoms, and (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula (XIII) below:
(XIII),

in which: R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R ₂₃ is chosen from: the –C(O)R ₂₆ group, the C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups R ₂₇ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R ₂₅ is chosen from: the –C(O)R ₂₈ group, the C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups R ₂₉ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers valued from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer value from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers value ^from 0 to 10, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₂₃ designates R ₂₇ and that when z is 0 then R ₂₅ designates R ₂₉ .

The R ₂₂ alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₇ group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₉ group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C ₁₁ -C alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

_The ^anion _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​} sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function can be used.

The anion X ^- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

It is possible to use more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1 , r, s and t are equal to 2; R ₂₃ is chosen from: the –C(O)R ₂₆ group, the methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R ₂₅ is chosen from: the –C(O) group R ₂₈ , the hydrogen atom, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the groups C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, among the compounds of formula (XIII) of salts, in particular chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, mono acyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and their mixtures. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, they may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Mention may also be made of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.

Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Advantageously, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, preferably from quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to general formula (X), those corresponding to formula (XI), and their mixtures, more preferably among those corresponding to formula (X), and their mixtures; fatty amines, preferably those chosen from amidoamines of formula (A); and their mixtures.

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (X) are chosen from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular chlorides behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium, and mixtures thereof, more particularly cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Advantageously, the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.0075 to 5% by weight, better still from 0 .01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickening agent

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent different from associative polymers.

The thickeners can be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers); polyacrylamides, in particular acrylamide copolymers such as copolymers of acrylamide and sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin /Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS” (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS; and SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylated guar gums such as for example Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL INDUSTRIES or Veegum Ultra, sold by the company POLYPLASTIC.

The thickeners can also be cationic such as for example POLYQUATERNIUM-37 marketed under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (And) PPG-1-Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymers such as those named CTFA Ethylacrylate Copolymer / Dimethylamino Ethyl Cationic Methacrylate In Emulsion.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from polyacrylamides, preferably from acrylamide copolymers and mixtures thereof, preferably from crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane acid. sulfonic acid or sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate.

Advantageously, the total content of the thickening agent(s) different from the associative polymers ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0. 5 to 5% by weight, better 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional surfactant

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants.

The non-ionic surfactants can be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl (C _1–20 ) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide groups and/or or propylene oxide which can range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups which can range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters having from 2 to 150 moles ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as oxides of (C10-14 alkyl)amines or N oxides -(C10-14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine.

We can also cite non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type, in particular represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v

in which :

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

- v designates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which:

- R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

- G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. We particularly prefer C8/C16-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides.

Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, C8/C16-(poly)glycoside 1,4 alkyl are used, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-24 alkyl)(poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C8-18 alkyl)(poly) glycosides, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan. , polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably having 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total content of the additional surfactant(s) chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and their mixtures ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , better from 0.1 to 7% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 0.75 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 7% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. weight, better from 0.75 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicone

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one silicone, which may be chosen from non-aminated silicones, aminated silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone(s) are preferably chosen from amino silicones.

The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile.

The non-amine silicones which may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; oils and silicone gums are preferred.

Silicones are described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

The volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from:

i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as:
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). We can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type with chemical structure:

We can cite the “VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109” marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
- mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2, 2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;

ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or in mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amine organopolysiloxanes (or polysiloxanes). organomodified, or even organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amine organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and groups polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylenated.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET ^® L 722, L 7500 oils , L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE; or alternatively alkyl(C ₁₂ )-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX ^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
- hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732.
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL ^® S201" and "ABIL ^® S255".

The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be cited:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- 200 series oils from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the 48 series oils from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

- silicones from the PK series from BAYER such as the PK20 product;

- silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The non-amine silicones more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones which can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C. , for example from 1*10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (II)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,
- b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- R', identical or different, designates a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group optionally quaternized chosen from the groups: -NR''- QN(R'') ₂ , -N(R'') ₂ , -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- , -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- , -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- , -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- , -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- , in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q designates a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) can be chosen from:

(i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

(ii) silicones of formula (IV) following:

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

(iii) silicones of formula (V) following:

in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V). A product containing amine silicones of structure (IV) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amine silicones of structure (V) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural amino silicones (XIV) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any nature but preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

(iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.

(v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
and—s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

in which :
- R ₇ , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- R ₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , a radical -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;
- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; And
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; we can in particular cite the silicone with the INCI name: QUATERNIUM 80.
Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

e) amino silicones of formula (X):

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g.

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-] or
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R designate a radical CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ -; And
- R', identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' designate -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.

The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol.
We can in particular cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

g) amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

in which :
- R, R' and R'', identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And
- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000.

in which :
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably it goes from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, designate an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can cite in particular the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups may be mentioned; and preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), we have:

- x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

- going from 1 to 100;

- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And

- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the groups dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. We can cite in particular the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), we can cite the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the Shin Etsu company.
In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 3000.
As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 50,000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below:

in which :
- n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;
- m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5;
- R''', identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms carbon; said radicals optionally being able to be substituted by one or more OH hydroxyl groups;
- R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
- R'' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the R''', identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; we can in particular cite the dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals; preferably the R''', identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, C15, alone or in mixture, and better represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.
Preferably, the R''' are identical.
Preferably, R' is a divalent linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.
Preferably, R'' is a divalent linear alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-.

Advantageously, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone chosen from aminated silicones, said aminated silicone is preferably chosen from silicones of formula (II), more preferably from silicones of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof.

When the composition comprises at least one silicone, the total content of the silicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises at least one aminated silicone, the total content of the aminated silicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0. 5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content preferably ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 94% by weight, even more preferably from 75 to 93% by weight, better still from 80% by weight. at 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition is aqueous, the pH can vary from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 5.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used, different from the compounds as described above.

Among the additives likely to be contained in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures different from the polymers described above, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss agents. and/or hair regrowth, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlizing agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The above additives can generally be present in quantities of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the composition ready for use.

Process

The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention as defined above.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are possibly rinsed with water, possibly washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, at the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are rinsed, preferably they do not undergo washing after this rinsing step.

Preferably the composition according to the invention is used at a temperature between 10°C and 100°C, better still between 15°C and 40°C.

The composition can then be left in place for a period usually ranging from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes, better still from 10 minutes to 1 hour.

It is advantageously possible, after application of the coloring composition, to subject the hair to a heat treatment. In practice, this operation can be carried out using a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared ray dispenser and other conventional heating devices.

The temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 to 25°C) and 80°C, preferably between room temperature and 60°C.

At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are possibly rinsed with water, possibly washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried (mechanically with a towel or paper). absorbent, or by heat) or left to dry.

The present invention finally relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

EXAMPLES

In the example that follows, all quantities are indicated as a mass percentage of active ingredient (MA) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Example

Compositions A1 and A2 as described in Table 2 below were prepared.

Compositions A1 (invention) A2 (comparative) Laureth-12 0.5 0.5 CI 42090 (Blue 1) 0.4 0.4 CI 15510 (Orange 4) 0.1 0.1 CI 60730 (Ext Violet 2) 0.5 0.5 CI 45100 (Acid Red 52) 0.1 0.1 CI 47005 (Yellow 10) 0.05 0.05 Ethanol 6 6 Hydrogenated polyisobutene ⁽¹⁾ 4 4 Deceth-5 0.5 0.5 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose 1.3 1.3 Polyacrylamide (and) C13-C14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 ⁽²⁾ 3.5 3.5 Benzyl alcohol 3 3 2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol 0.01 0.01 Quaternium-87 0.05 0.05 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride ⁽³⁾ 1 1 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.24 - Preservatives and perfume Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

(1) sold by the company NOF CORPORATION under the trade name PARLEAM®

(2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepigel 305

(3) sold by the company DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) under the trade name XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION

Protocol

Each of compositions A1 and A2 was applied to strands of bleached hair, at a rate of 3 g of composition per gram of strands. Then, the wicks were placed on a plate thermostatically controlled at 27°C for 5 minutes. Then, the locks were rinsed and dried.

Results

The colorimetric measurements were carried out using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the lightness of the color, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* the blue/yellow color axis.

In particular, the lower the value of L*, the more powerful the coloring obtained. The results are summarized in table 3 below:

Compositions A1 (invention) A2 (comparative) L* 40.60 48.30

The strands of hair treated with composition A1 according to the invention have a lower L* value than those treated with the comparative composition A2. In other words, the coloring obtained with composition A1 according to the invention is more powerful than that obtained with the comparative composition A2.

Claims (17)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
a) at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures;
b) at least one direct dye;
c) at least one associative polymer. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the compound(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures are chosen from the salts of alkali metals, of preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the compound(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures ranges from 0.001 at 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.075 to 2% by weight, or even more from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the direct dye(s) are chosen from acidic direct dyes, preferably from acidic nitrated direct dyes, acidic azo direct dyes, acidic direct dyes, direct azinic acid dyes, direct triarylmethane acid dyes, direct indoaminic acid dyes, direct anthraquinone acid dyes, direct indigoid acid dyes, direct natural acid dyes, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the direct dye(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the associative polymer(s) are chosen from non-ionic associative polymers, cationic associative polymers and mixtures thereof, preferably from non-ionic associative polymers, more preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups, preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ , better still, among cetylhydroxyethylcellulose. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 at 3% by weight, better 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferably chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and their mixtures; more preferably still among liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, better still among liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, better still among hydrogenated polyisobutene. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8%. by weight, better still 2 to 6% by weight, better still 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic surfactant, different from cationic associative polymers, preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their mixtures. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the following general formula (X):
(X)
in which :
the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R ₈ groups to R ₁₁ comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​}
- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the following formula (XI):
(XII)
in which :
R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​}
- amidoamines of formula (A) following: RCONHR''N(R') ₂ (A),
in which :
R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₅ -C ₂₉ alkyl radical , preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ , linear or branched, or a C ₅ -C ₂₉ alkenyl radical, preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ linear or branched;
R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; And
R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical;
- and their mixtures. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salt(s) are chosen from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, more particularly cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one thickening agent different from associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyacrylamides, more preferably from acrylamide copolymers and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional surfactant chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one silicone, preferably chosen from aminated silicones, more preferably chosen from the following silicones of formula (VI) and their mixtures:

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair.