FR3025103A1 - GEL / GEL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A UV FILTER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent; at least one oily phase gelled with at least one agent; lipophilic, non-cellulosic gelling agent different from apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point of greater than 75.0 ° C and silicone polyamides; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one UV filter.

Description

The object of the present invention is to propose, for the field of sun protection and more particularly for the field of care and / or make-up compositions for keratinous substances, a new galenic product which is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performances and sensory sensations. it provides the user during its application on them and in particular on the skin. By "keratin materials" is meant in particular the skin, the lips, and also the keratinous fibers such as the hair, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and preferably the skin. It is known that radiations of wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allow tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation of wavelength between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-rays. B interfere with the development of the natural tan. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin.

It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods of time, under normal conditions can lead to degradation of collagen and elastin fibers which results in a modification of the micro-relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and irregular pigmentation (brown spots, heterogeneity of complexion). Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to remedy the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They usually contain fat-soluble and water-soluble organic UV filters that work by UV absorption according to their own chemical nature. It is known that the formulation of emulsions with high levels of filters, necessary to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency, does not lend itself to a quick and easy elaboration of a varied range of compositions and textures.

Thus, in a given emulsified system, it is often difficult to integrate high-grade UV filters, without altering their stability. It is then necessary to re-adjust the formula and in particular to reformulate the emulsified system.

It is moreover known that the filtering formulations have uncomfortable and even uncomfortable sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulas. The weak point of filtering emulsions with a high degree of protection is often an important sensation of fat and stickiness, and therefore a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a shiny appearance on the skin. It is thus difficult to reconcile in the same composition opposing technical performances, such as a high level of UV protection that implies a greasy and sticky finish on the skin and a pleasant sensory, attributed amongst other things to the sensation of freshness. . There remains therefore a need for UV sunscreen compositions which are stable, effective in photo-protection and which do not have the disadvantages presented above, in particular which provide a pleasant sensory including a feeling of freshness. Unexpectedly and advantageously, the inventors have shown that this need can be met by means of the photoprotective compositions according to the present invention. Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention is directed to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent, At least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point greater than 75.0 ° C., preferably greater than 80.0 ° C., and silicone polyamides, said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising at least one UV filter.

Advantageously, the UV filter (s) are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase or are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled oily phase. According to one particular embodiment, the present invention provides a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one an oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent different from the apolar hydrocarbon waxes and silicone polyamides, said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; Said composition further comprising at least one UV filter. Against all expectations, and as can be seen from the examples appearing below, the inventors have found that the formulation of a UV filter in a gel-gel architecture as defined above makes it possible to obtain a composition which makes it possible to provide freshness and lightness even when said composition contains a high level of UV filters. In addition, the gel-gel architecture as defined above makes it possible to maintain the photo-protection properties and leads to stable compositions, in particular without the appearance of a phase shift. Compositions, called gel-gel, are already proposed in the cosmetics field. This type of formulation combines a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel / gel formulations are described in Almeida et al., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, Tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the inventors' knowledge, this type of composition does not at the present time make it possible to guarantee all the essential properties expected in the cosmetic field, such as a pleasant texture during gripping of the product, a sticky deposit reduced, comfortable and homogeneous especially for makeup, or a stability of the formulation. Application WO 2013/093869 also discloses compositions comprising at least: a gelled aqueous phase containing at least 3% by weight relative to its total weight of particles of at least one (C 1 -C 4) carboxyalkyl; starch and whose particle size varies from 25 to 300 μm, and - an oily phase gelled with at least one texturizing agent, with one of said phases constituting the continuous phase of said composition in which is dispersed uniformly the other phase.

As stated above, the inventors have found that the use of UV filters in a multiphase composition according to the invention makes it possible to guarantee the holding of the photoprotective properties and of the stability. Thus, a composition according to the invention has a very good stability both in terms of visual stability (no phase shift) and photoprotective properties, while providing a feeling of freshness and lightness to the user at the application. Finally, the composition is easy to apply to the surface of the keratin material that is targeted. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic make-up and / or care of keratin materials, comprising at least one mixing step: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point greater than 75.0 ° C., preferably greater than 80.0 ° C., and polyamides silicone; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one UV filter. According to an alternative embodiment, this process may advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least two or more gelled phases. More particularly, the invention relates to a method for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one agent non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes and silicone polyamides; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; Said composition further comprising at least one UV filter.

For obvious reasons, the number of gelled aqueous phases and gelled oily phases to be considered for forming a composition according to the invention may vary for each of the two types of phase beyond two. Advantageously, the mixing of the phases can be carried out at room temperature. However, the method of the invention may include, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture. According to an alternative embodiment, the final formula can be manufactured without following a particular order of introduction of the various constituents and in some cases "all-in-one" manufacture can be carried out. According to a particular embodiment, the gelled phases representative of the same type of architecture are gelled by a different gelling agent. Multiphase formulas can thus be developed. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or of the face, and / or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material a composition. The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, and / or keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising at least the application on said keratin materials of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one aqueous gelled phase, minus a non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent, and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point greater than 75.0 ° C., preferably greater than 80.0 ° C. and silicone polyamides, and said composition further comprising at least at least one UV filter.

The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin, and / or to improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, including the application on the skin. the surface of the keratinous material of a composition according to the invention. It also relates to a cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of a composition according to the invention. Definitions For the purposes of the present invention, the term "UV filter" is intended to mean any organic compound (comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms) or any inorganic compound (not comprising carbon atoms) capable of filtering absorption and / or diffusion and / or reflection UV radiation ranging from 280nm to 400nm and which does not have sufficient coverage to produce a color on the surface of a keratin material by application of a composition containing it. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" generally means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a higher melting point, or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature or the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C. ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

"Hydrocarbon wax" is understood to mean a wax essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, δa is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensionna" sotubitity parameters "J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: 15 - 8D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; Δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; Δt, characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - Ôa is determined by the equation: Ôa = (Ôp2 Ôh2) 1/4. The parameters Ôp, h, 15D and Ôa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. For the purposes of the invention, "polyamide" is understood to mean compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units.

By "silicone polyamide" is meant a polyamide comprising a polyorganosiloxane chain consisting essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and silicon atoms and especially -SiO groups.

First of all, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.

An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of one micrometer (0.1 to 100 μm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or emulsifier to ensure its stability. In contrast, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel / gel-like texture. This texture is reflected in particular visually by a consistent and / or creamy appearance.

The term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases can not be individualized with the naked eye. More precisely, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrating macro domains.

These interpenetrating macro-domains are not measurable objects. Thus, under the microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention can not be characterized as having a "meaning", ie an O / W or E / H direction. Thus, a composition according to the invention has a gel-like consistency.

The stability of the composition can be ensured without the mandatory presence of a surfactant. Therefore, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not necessarily require surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability. It is known from the state of the art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a gel / gel-type composition, for example, by introducing a coloring material either into the aqueous gelled phase. either in the lipophilic gelled phase, before the formation of the gel / gel-type composition. In the visual inspection, in a gel / gel composition, the coloring matter appears evenly dispersed, even if the dye is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. In fact, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced respectively into the oily phase and into the aqueous phase, before the formation of the gel / gel composition, the two colors can be observed as uniformly dispersed throughout the composition of the composition. gel / gel type. This is different from an emulsion in which, if a water-soluble or oil-soluble dye is introduced into the aqueous and oily phases, respectively, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the dye will be observed. present in the outer phase (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282). It is also known to distinguish a gel / gel composition of an emulsion by performing a "drop test". This test consists of demonstrating the bicontinuous nature of a gel / gel composition. Indeed, as mentioned above, the consistency of a composition is obtained through the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Therefore, the bi-continuous nature of a gel / gel composition can be evidenced by a simple test with hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents respectively. This test consists in depositing, on the one hand, a drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the tested composition, and, on the other hand, a drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same composition tested, and to analyze the behavior of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O / W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains on the surface of the sample. In the case of an W / O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains on the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system), the hydrophilic and hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample. In the case of the present invention, the test that will be preferred for distinguishing a gel / gel composition from an emulsion is a dilution test. In fact, in a gel / gel composition, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion. Therefore, the behavior during a dilution of a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system) can be compared to that of an emulsion. More specifically, the dilution test consists in putting 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is done using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The mixer speed is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, observation of the resulting sample is performed using an optical microscope at a magnification of x 100 (x10x10). It may be noted that oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® marketed by Dow Corning are suitable as a diluting solvent in the same way as one of the oils contained in the composition. In the case of a gel / gel-type composition (bicontinuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel are observed in suspension and when a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in from the oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed. On the contrary, during the dilution, the emulsions exhibit a different behavior. An O / W emulsion, when diluted in an aqueous solvent, is progressively reduced without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O / W emulsion, when diluted with the oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O / W emulsion suspended in the oil). W / O emulsion, when diluted with an aqueous solvent, has a heterogeneous appearance (W / O emulsion pieces suspended in water). This same W / O emulsion when diluted in the oil is progressively reduced without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the gelled oily phase forming a composition according to the invention are present in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 20/80 to 80/20 and even more preferably ranging from 30/70 to 70/30. The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.

Thus, in the case of a care or make-up composition, in particular the face, it will be advantageous to promote an aqueous gelled phase / oily gelled phase weight ratio greater than or equal to 1, in particular ranging from 50/50 to 90/10, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may therefore be in the form of a creamy gel having a minimum stress below which it is not does not flow except to have been subjected to an external mechanical stress. As is apparent from the following a composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.

It may also advantageously have a modulus of rigidity G * of at least 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. According to an advantageous variant embodiment, the gelled phases considered for forming a composition according to the invention may respectively have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, and preferably greater than 10 Pa.

The characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillation rheology measurements. A methodology is proposed in the exemplification chapter of this text. In general, the corresponding measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using an imposed stress rheometer, RS600 HAAKE, equipped with a plane-plane measuring body (diameter 60 mm) provided with a anti-evaporation device (bell). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed and the measurements begin 5 minutes after the sample is placed in the gap (2 mm). The tested composition is then subjected to a stress ramp of 10-2 at 102 Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz. A composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity is characterized by a modulus of rigidity G * which below this minimum stress threshold may be at least 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition considered at a stress ramp of 10-2 at 102 Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz.

HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER The term "hydrophilic gelling agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent" means a hydrophilic gelling agent which is different from a starch. The hydrophilic gelling agent is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. As specified above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. The non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, natural or non-starchy natural polymeric gelling agents, in particular non-starch polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

I. Natural or non-starch polymeric gelling agents Polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modifying natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate. More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides. Non-starch polysaccharides In general, non-starch polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides made by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gums arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives ; and their mixtures.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellanes, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, 3025103 13 ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gum, galactomannan such as guar gums. and their nonionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, and especially scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and especially chondroitin sulphates and mixtures thereof. These polysaccharides may be modified chemically, in particular by urea, urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, and alginate-based compounds, in particular alginate. sodium, saroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof. In general, the compounds of this type that can be used in the present invention are chosen from those described in particular in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and 25 volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA Mc GREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, John Wiley & Sons Editions, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 ", in the book by Robert L. DAVIDSON entitled "Handbook of Water Soluble Gums and Resins" edited by Mc Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in the Industrial Gums "Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, 30 Edition Academic Press Inc. " Such a gelling agent may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.5% and 2.5% by weight, in particular about 1%, or about 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. More specifically, these polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, algae or higher plants, and are detailed below. Polysaccharides Produced by Xanthan Microorganisms Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of β3 (1,4) -linked β-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One out of every two glucose molecules has a trisaccharide side chain consisting of α-Mannose, β-D-glucuronic acid and terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on the carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group bound in chelated form between the carbons 4 and 6. The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible. the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH 1). The contents of the pyruvate and acetate residues vary depending on the strain of bacteria, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na +, K + or Ca2 + ions (SATIA Company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to an acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution. The xanthan gums have a molecular weight of from 1,000,000 to 50,000,000 and a viscosity of from 0.6 to 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25.degree. Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 rpm). Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxanetm by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name 3025103. NOVAXANTM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan and Keltrol by the company CP-Kelco. Pullulan Pullulan is a polysaccharide consisting of maltotriose units, known as a (1,4) -a (1,6) -glucan. Three units of glucose in maltotriose are connected by a glycosidic linkage to a (1,4), while the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other by a glycosidic linkage to a (1,6). For example, pullulan is produced as Pullulan PF 20 by the Hayashibara Group in Japan. Dextran and Dextran Sulfate Dextran is a neutral, biologically inert, charged group-free polysaccharide prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing only hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain from the native dextran by hydrolysis and purification, dextran fractions of different molecular weights. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate. Dextran is represented for example by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, under the name Dextran 40 powder or Dextran 70 powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. The dextran sulfate is marketed by the company PK Chemical A / S under the name Dextran sulphate.

Succinoglycan Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, of high molecular weight and consisting of repeated units of octasaccharides (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are, for example, sold under the name Rheozan by Rhodia.

Scleroglucan 3025103 16 Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide consisting of P-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose units linked by P (1,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit via a P (1,6) bond.

A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in US 3,301,848. Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name AMIGEL by ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUMTM CS by Cargill.

Gellan gum Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on 4 -oseose oligoside units (tetra-oside). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2: 1: 1 ratios are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements. It is for example sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA by the company CP KELCO. Polysaccharides Isolated from Galactan Algae The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan, in particular chosen from agar or carrageenans. Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by α (1,3) and 13 (1,4) bonds. These are highly sulphated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and the position of ester-sulphate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, there are several types of carrageenans namely: kappa-carrageenans which have an ester-sulphate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester-sulfate groups and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups. Carrageenans consist essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides. Carrageenans are marketed by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol® by the company Cargill under the names SATIAGELTM and SATIAGUMTm, and by the company CP-Kelco under the name GENULACTA®, GENUGEL® and GENUVI SC Oe. Galactans Agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophycea). They are formed of a polymer group whose base skeleton is a chain f3 (1,3) dgalactopyranose and a (1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methyl or carboxyethylated solvate groups. These hybrid structures are generally present as a variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the season of harvest. Agar is a mixture of high molecular weight polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of between 40,000 and 300,000 g.mol -1. It is obtained by producing algae extraction juices, usually by autoclaving, and treating these juices which include about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract it. The agar is for example produced by the group B & V Agar Producers, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company. Setexam. Furcellarane Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellarane is for example produced by the company East-Agar.

Alginate-Based Compound For the purposes of the invention, the term "alginate-based compound" means alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and alginic acid salts (alginates) or said derivatives.

Preferably, the alginate compound is water soluble. Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by (1,4) glycosidic linkages: PD-manuronic acid (M) and acid aL -glucuronic (G). The alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, lithium, substituted amine and substituted ammonium cations such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at a pH of 4 but dissociate in alginic acid at a pH below 4. This (s) compound (s) based on alginate is (are) capable (s) to crosslink in the presence At least one crosslinking agent, by formation of ionic bonds between said (s) compound (s) based on alginate and said (s) agent (s) crosslinking. The formation of multiple crosslinks between several molecules of the said alginate-based compound (s) causes the formation of a water-insoluble gel. Alginate-based compounds having a weight average molecular weight of from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and preferably from 20,000 to 250,000, are preferably used. In a preferred embodiment, the alginate compound is alginic acid and / or a salt thereof. Advantageously, the alginate compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate. The alginate-based compound may be chemically modified, in particular by urea, urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

The alginate-based compounds that are suitable for the invention can be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Kelcosol, Satigaline, Cecalgum ™ or Algogel ™ by the company Cargill products, under the name Protanal ™ by the company FMC Biopolymer. , under the name 5 GRINDSTED® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name KIMICA ALGIN by the company KIMICA, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP. This class of polysaccharides can be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (a single species of oses) and heterogeneous compounds of several types of monosaccharides. a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives The polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructans. Cellulose and derivatives The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or one of its derivatives in particular ethers or cellulose esters (eg methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate nitrocellulose). The invention may also contain a cellulosic associative polymer. By cellulosic compound is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure linear chains of anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) residues united by glycoside bonds f3 (1,4). The repetition pattern is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and have 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine with each other by intermolecular links of the hydrogen bonding type, thus conferring a fibrillar structure on the cellulose (approximately 1500 molecules per fiber).

The degree of polymerization differs greatly depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value can vary from a few hundred to a few tens of thousands. The cellulose has the following chemical structure: The hydroxyl groups of the cellulose may react partially or totally with different chemical reagents to give cellulosic derivatives having their own properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, there are the cellulose ethers, the cellulose esters and the cellulose ether esters. Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose celluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses. Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts. Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses which may or may not be crosslinked. The quaternizer may be especially glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. As another cationic cellulose ether, there may be mentioned hydroxyethylcellulose seydroxypropyltrimethylammonium. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular: quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures of these, this ; quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of C8-C30 fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses are QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X. 529-8 (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA. Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of: - celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially C 8 -alkyl groups; C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, and - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol. Among the cellulose esters, there are the inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates, or phosphates, etc.), the organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates). ) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate-butyrate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates.

The cellulosic compounds of the invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses. The celluloses and derivatives are represented for example by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company DOW, under the trade names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), 10 BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polyoxy surf (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

Fructosans The polysaccharide according to the invention may especially be a fructosan selected from among inulin and its derivatives (in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulines). Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a number of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000, and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by bonds (3 (2,1) .These are essentially linear fructans like inulins.The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the Fructose units are essentially linked by (3 (2,6) bonds.) These products are levans.

The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, that is to say having chains (3 (2,6) and (3 (2,1)), which are essentially branched fructans than the graminans. Inulin can be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory, in particular the polysaccharide, especially inulin, which is present in the present invention. a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 based on a fructose unit.

The inulin used for this invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Beneo ™ Inulin by the company Orafti and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus. b) Heterogeneous Polysaccharides and Their Derivatives The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for example cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum or arabic gum. Gum arabic Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, Larabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (phosphated guar, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.) Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of leguminous seeds of which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate. Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of β (1,4) -linked D-mannopyranose units carrying side branches consisting of a single α-1,6-linked D-galactopyranose unit at the main channel. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of distribution of the galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose / galactose ratio (M / G) is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

The galactomannans have the following chemical structure: Guar Guar gum is characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1. The galactose moiety is regularly distributed along the mannose chain. The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums can be used. The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco. under the name VISCOGUMTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon. The hydrolysed nonionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are, for example, represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by Danisco. The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which, by way of example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N HP-Hance® (hydroxypropyl guar) by AQUALON. The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 1.5 meq / g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq / g. The charge density can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

In general, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups. Preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6. The cationic galactomannan gums that can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, there may be mentioned very particularly trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum. According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular of guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products which are already known per se and are described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. Such products are moreover 30,225,103 sold. especially under the trade names of Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar 5 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon. The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulphene, phosphoric, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a salt of sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium. The anionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are preferably carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

15 Carob Locust bean gum is extracted from carob seed (Ceratonia siliqua). The unmodified carob gum that can be used in this invention is sold for example under the trademark ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, under the name Grinsted® LBG 20 by the company Danisco. The chemically modified carob gums which can be used in this invention can be represented, for example, by the cationic carob sold under the name Catinal CLB (carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

TARA gum The Tara gum which can be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

Glucomannans (konjac gum) Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (500,000 <Mglucomannan <2,000,000), composed of D-mannose units and D-glucose with a branching every 50 or 60 units approx. It is found in wood but it is also the main constituent of Konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the family Araceae. The products which can be used according to the invention are for example sold under the name Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu. LM and HM Pectins, and Derivatives Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked at the 1- and 4-positions, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, Dxylose). The residues of L-rhamnose are found in all the pectins, integrated in the main chain in positions 1,2. Uronic acid molecules have carboxyl functions. This function gives the pectins the ability to exchange ions when they are in C00- form. Bivalent ions (especially calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules. In the natural state, a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group. The degree of natural esterification of a pectin can vary between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used. From pectins of high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH3 groups, in order to obtain weakly esterified pectins. Depending on the proportion of methyl or non-methylated monomers, the chain is therefore more or less acidic. HM pectins (High methoxy) having a degree of esterification greater than 50% and LM (Low Methoxy) pectins having a degree of esterification of less than 50% are thus defined. In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH3 group is substituted with an -NI-12 group. The pectins are in particular sold by Cargill under the name Unipectin®, by the company CP-Kelco under the name GENU, by Danisco under the name GRINSTED Pectin.

Other Polysaccharides Among the other polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, (3 (1,4) -2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose) chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethyl chitin, etc.), such as those sold by France-Chitin, Glycosaminoglycans (GAG) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid, xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives The arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name "pentosans." The xylans consist of a chain main group of P (1,4) -linked D-xylose units on which three substituents are found (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, α-arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

According to this variant, the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate) II. Synthetic Polymer Gelling Agents For the purposes of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally extant nor derived from a polymer of natural origin. The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be particulate or non-particulate. For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

As will be apparent from the following, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or otherwise, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

3025103 29 II.A. Particulate synthetic polymer gelling agents They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers. It may in particular be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form. According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has, in the dry or non-hydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 50 μm. The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter measured by laser particle size or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. Thus, preferably, the particulate gellant according to the present invention is selected from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. By way of example of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 20 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing. Mention may also be made of crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres such as, for example, those marketed under the name AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF 25 proposed by Sumitomo Seika. Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of 0.1% to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight, and in particular with from about 0.8% to 1.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

II.B. Non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents This family of gelling agents can be detailed in the following sub-families: 1. Associative polymers, 2. Polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, crosslinked and or neutralized, and 3. Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

Associative polymers For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. Associative Anionic Polymers Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer. , more particularly with a vinyl carboxylic acid and more particularly with an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (I): CH 2 = C (R) In which R 'denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl and arylalkyl radicals; , aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479. Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / cc-olefin in C30 -C38 / alkyl maleate such as maleic anhydride copolymer / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by Newphase Technologies.

Among the anionic associative polymers, according to one preferred embodiment, copolymers comprising among their monomers an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester may be mentioned; and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of C 1 -C 4 alcohol, for example of this type of compound, mention may be made of Aculyn 22®. sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (comprising 20 OE units) or Aculyn 28® 10 (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer) Oxyethylene (250E) As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester type. Examples of unsaturated carboxylic acid include, for example, the anionic polymers described and prepared according to US Patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949 as associative anionic polymers. mention also the anionic terpolymers.

The anionic terpolymer used according to the invention is a linear or branched and / or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer (1) bearing an acid function in free form, partially or totally salified with a nonionic monomer (2). chosen from NN, dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylenated alkyl acrylate monomer (3) of formula (I) below: R 1 -O o (I) in which R 1 represents an atom of hydrogen, R represents a linear or branched C2-Cs alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10. "Connected polymer" denotes a nonlinear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a high state of entanglement leading to viscosities, very low speed gradient. The term "crosslinked polymer" denotes a non-linear polymer in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable with water and leads to the production of a chemical gel. The acid function of the monomer (1) is in particular the sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free form, partially or totally salified. The monomer (1) may be selected from styrene sulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid or 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (also called Acryloyldimethyltaurate) in the form of free, partially or totally salified.It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10% and 90 mol% .The monomer (1) will be more particularly the acid 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid in free form, partially or totally salified The acid function in partially or totally salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an aminoalcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt or an amino acid salt such as a salt of lysine.The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in proportion molar concentrations of between 4.9% and 90 mol% and more particularly between 9.5% and 85 mol% and even more particularly between 19.5% and 75 mol%. In the formula (I), as an example of a linear C8-C16 alkyl radical, mention may be made of octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl and hexadecyl. In the formula (I), as an example of a C8-C16 branched alkyl radical, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl and 5-methylhexyl. 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl, 2-hexyloctyl.

According to one particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes a C12-C16 alkyl radical.

According to one particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n ranges from 3 to 5. Tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate will more particularly be used as monomer of formula (I).

The monomer (3) of formula (I) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 0.1% and 10% by mole and more particularly between 0.5% and 5% by mole. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is crosslinked and / or connected by a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005% to 1% by mol and from preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% molar and more particularly from 0.01% to 0.25% molar. The crosslinking agent and / or the branching agent is preferably selected from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxoacetic acid or a salt thereof, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide) or mixtures thereof. The anionic terpolymer may contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents, chain-limiting agents.

More particularly, an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N, N-dimethylacrylamide will be used. and lauryl acrylate tetraethoxylated and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate, INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as the product sold under the trade name Sepimax Zen® by the company Seppic Cationic associative polymers As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of polyacrylates with amino side groups.

The polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or otherwise, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth type (polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl alcohol).

Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from National Starch. Nonionic Associative Polymers The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from: copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers; copolymers of methacrylates or of C1-C6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; associative polyurethanes. The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising, in the chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The associative polyurethanes may be sequenced as triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent.

As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers for use in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), with Rheolate® 205 function urea sold by Elementis or Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol® RM 184 or Acrysol® RM 2020.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos® T210 with a C12-C14 alkyl chain and the product Elfacos® T212 with a C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from Akzo. The DW 1206B® product from Rohm & Haas with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Elementis. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J proposed by Rohm & Haas.

The associative polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993). Even more particularly, according to the invention, it is also possible to use an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide. (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44. Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide. of stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and Aculyn® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol of 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and of water (26%). It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from Elementis, Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Elementis. . It is also possible to use the Aculyn® 44, Aculyn® 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J products, as well as the Acrysol® RM 184 from Rohm & Haas or the Borchi Gel LW 44 from Borchers. and their mixtures. Amphoteric associative polymers Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or non-branched polymers, obtainable by the copolymerization of: 1) at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb): ## STR5 ## in which R 4, R 11, and R 7 which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom; n is an integer of 2 to 5; A- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide; 2) of at least one monomer of formula (V): (IVa) (IVb) wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; hydrogen or a methyl radical; Z1 represents an OH group or an NHC (CH3) 2CH2SO3H group; 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI): wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; X denotes an atom; oxygen or nitrogen and R11 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; 4) optionally at least one crosslinking agent or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb), ( V) and (VI) may be quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate.

The monomers of formula (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of: - dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate, diethylaminoethylmethacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose. The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1. The weight average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight average molecular weight of greater than 500, preferably of between 10,000. and 10,000,000, and even more preferably between 100,000 and 800,000. Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1% to 99% of moles, more preferably from 20% to 95% of moles and even more preferably from 25% to 10%. % to 75% of moles of compound (s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1% to 80% by moles, more preferably from 5% to 80% by moles and even more preferably from 25% to 75% by moles of compound (s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1% and 70% by moles, more preferably between 1% to 50% by moles and even more preferably between 1% and 10% by moles. . The crosslinking or branching agent when present is preferably between 0.0001% and 1% moles and more preferably between 0.0001% and 0.1% moles. Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formulas (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) ranges from 20:80 to 95: 5, and more preferably from 25:75 to 75. 25.

The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described in the patent application WO 98/44012. The amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers. According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter and preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. Polyacrylamides and cross-linked and / or neutralized acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers The polymers used which are suitable as aqueous gelling agents for the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. They are preferably neutralized completely or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%. These AMPS® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of the polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples of crosslinking agents which may be mentioned are divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate and the like. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% by moles and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by moles relative to the polymer.

The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case: either "homopolymers" containing only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above; or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms. By "water-soluble or water-dispersible" is meant polymers which, introduced in an aqueous phase at 25 ° C., at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution. have a maximum transmittance value of light, at a wavelength of 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, at least 60%, preferably at least 70%. The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably cross-linked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation method comprising the following steps: (a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of t-butanol or water and tert-butanol; (B) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably ammonia NI-13, in a quantity which makes it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the functions sulfonic acids of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%; (C) adding to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), the crosslinking monomer (s); (d) conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature of from 10 ° C to 150 ° C; the precipitating polymer in the tert-butanol solution or dispersion.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof. The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic. Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, there may be mentioned for example the following compounds and their salts: - (meth) acrylic acid, - styrene sulphonic acid, - vinylsulphonic acid and (meth) allylsulphonic acid vinyl phosphonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below: in which: R 1 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - Xi is chosen from: - alkyl oxides of -OR2 type where R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulphonic group (- S03-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers that may be mentioned for example: (meth) acrylamide, N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide, N-vinylformamide and N-vinylformamide; methyl N-vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, vinylamine, N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N10 vinylcaprolactam, - The vinyl alcohol of formula CH 2 = CHOH, - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below: HC = CR 'CO X 2 in which: - R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3, -C 2 H 5 or -C 3 H 7; - X2 is selected from -OR4 alkyl oxides wherein R4 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.

Examples include glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth) acrylates. Non-fatty chain hydrophobic comonomers include, for example: styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene; vinyl acetate of formula CH2 = CH-OCOCH3; vinyl ethers of formula CH 2 = CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Acrylonitrile; caprolactone; Vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; - Silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides; The hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below: I-12C = CR 4 CO (C) in which: R 4 is chosen from H, -CH 3, -C 2 H 5 or -C 3 F 17; - X3 is chosen from: - alkyl oxides of -0R5 type where R5 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate, and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass of from 50,000 g / mole to 10,000,000 g / mole, preferably from 80,000 g / mole to 8,000,000 g / mole. and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mole to 7,000,000 g / mole. As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS 20 that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of cross-linked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), the crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate (INCI name: Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) that those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant. As hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible homopolymers of preferred AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (name CTFA: Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic; copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide ; Copolymers of AMPS® and of sodium acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer); Copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPSe / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product sold under the name Copolymer 20 Acrylamido-2-methylpropane Sodium sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer). Water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of preferred AMPS according to the invention include copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate. In general, an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 12% by weight of dry matter, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight. % by weight of polyacrylamide (s) and / or polymer (s) and copolymer (s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized (s) relative to its total weight .

Modified or Unmodified Carboxyvinyl Polymers The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) having a hydrophobic group. By "copolymers" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. Hydrophobic group or unit means a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: at least one monomer of formula (1) below: ## STR2 ## in which, R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C2H5, that is to say monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and of at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester monomer corresponding to the monomer of formula (2) wherein R 2 is H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (ie acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (units methacrylates), R3 denoting a C1-C30 alkyl radical, and preferably a C1-C22 alkyl radical. The alkyl esters (C 10 -C 30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate. and the corresponding methacrylates, such as (2) lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked. Among this type of copolymer, more particularly polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: - essentially acrylic acid; - an ester of formula (2) described above and in which R2 designates H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide. Among this type of copolymer, those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) will be used more particularly. ), and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate C10-C3o (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

Among the above polymers, acrylate / Cio-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), such as the products marketed by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez Polymer and still more preferably Pemulen TR-2. Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% of dry matter and 10% of water, or Cosmedia SPL® in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% of dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis.

Partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF, may also be mentioned. The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be selected from crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers. By "(meth) acrylic" within the meaning of the present application, the term "acrylic or methacrylic". By way of example, mention may be made of those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol 10 Ultrez Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the names Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M. Among the carboxyvinyl polymers that may or may not be modified, mention may in particular be made of Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer). The carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or unmodified, can be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 8% by weight, preferably between 0.4 and 6% relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one synthetic polymeric gelling agent, preferably chosen from cross-linked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

According to a preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from the cross-linked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate, the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, and the acrylate / Cio-C30- copolymers. alkylacrylate and crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate.

30 30 30 30 3 III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas.

5 MA. Mixed Silicate For the purposes of the present invention, mixed silicate is understood to mean all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals. earthy (eg Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum.

According to one particular embodiment, the mixed silicate (s) are in the form of solid particles containing at least 10% by weight of at least one silicate relative to the total weight of the particles. In the remainder of the present disclosure, these particles are referred to as "silicate particles". Preferably, the silicate particles contain less than 1% by weight of aluminum based on the total weight of the particles. Even more preferably, they contain from 0% to 1% by weight of aluminum relative to the total weight of the particles. Preferably, the silicate particles contain at least 50% by weight of silicate, more preferably at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles.

Particles containing at least 90% by weight of silicates, based on the total weight of the particles, are particularly preferred. In particular, it is a silicate or a mixture of silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, aluminum or iron. Preferably, it is sodium silicate, magnesium and / or litium.

In order to ensure good cosmetic properties, these silicates are generally in finely divided form, and in particular in the form of particles having an average size ranging from 2 nm to 1 μm (from 2 nm to 1000 nm), and from preferably from 5 nm to 600 nm, and even more preferably from 20 to 250 nm. The silicate particles may be of any shape, for example, in the form of spheres, flakes, needles, platelets, disks, foils, or totally random shapes. Preferably, the silicate particles are in the form of disks or sheets.

Also, the term "average size" of the particles means the average number size of the largest dimension (length) that can be measured between two diametrically opposed points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy, or from the measurement of the specific surface area by the BET method, or by means of a laser granulometer. When the particles in the form of disks or sheets, they generally have a thickness ranging from about 0.5 nm to 5 nm. The silicate particles may consist of an alloy with oxides of metals or metalloids, obtained for example by thermal melting of its various constituents. When the particles further comprise such a metal oxide or metalloid, it is preferably selected from silicon oxide, boron oxide or aluminum oxide. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicates are phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the SiO 4 tetrahedra are organized into sheets between which the metal cations are enclosed. The mixed silicates that are suitable for the invention may be chosen for example from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and even better from laponites. A family of silicates particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention is that of laponites. Lapponites are magnesium, sodium, and optionally lithium silicates having a layered structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Lapponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral called "hectorite". The synthetic origin of this family of silicates presents a considerable advantage over the natural form because it allows a good control of the composition of the product. In addition, laponites have the advantage of having a particle size well below that of natural hectorite and bentonite. As laponites, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the following names: Laponite® XLS, Laponite® XLG, Laponite® RD, Laponite® 3025103 RDS, LAPONITE® XL21 (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and silicates of sodium, lithium and magnesium) by Rockwood Additives Limited. Such gelling agents may be used in amounts of 0.1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight. 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. MB. Hydrophilic pyrogenic silica The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic. The pyrogenic hydrophilic silicas are obtained by continuous flame pyrolysis at 1000 ° C. of silicon tetrachloride (SiC14) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the fumed silicas of hydrophilic nature which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by Degussa or Evonik Degussa under the trade names AEROSIL® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380, or by the company CABOT under the name Carbosil H5. Such gelling agents may be used in amounts of 0.1% to 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0% to From 5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. Amylaceous Polysaccharides According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from amylaceous polysaccharides. The starchy additional gelling agent is water-soluble or water-dispersible. Representative of this category may be especially mentioned, native starches and modified starches.

Native starches The starches which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by α (1,4) bonds, of chemical formula (C6H1005). The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1000 molecules of linearly-linked glucose, and amylopectin, a branched polymer of about 25 glucose residues (α-bond The total chain can make between 10,000 and 100,000 glucose residues Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3rd edition, volume 21, pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983". The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.On average, a native starch sample is Approximately 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin. Sometimes, there is presence of phytoglycogen (between 0% and 20% of the starch), an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

The starch may be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: the amylopectin is organized in sheets, the amylose forms a less well-organized amorphous zone between the different layers. Amyloidosis is organized into a right helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, the amylases, more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to enzymes. The starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

By treating it with hot water, the poison is obtained. It is used in the industry for its thickener and gelling properties. The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, starches are for example selected from starches of maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea. The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Amilogel ™, Cargill Ge1 ™, C * Ge1 ™, Cargill Gum ™, 3025103 52 Dry Ge1 ™, C * Pharm Ge ™ ™ by the company Cargill, under the name Corn starch by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

Modified starches The modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified by one or more of the following reactions: pre-gelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification) , bleaching.

More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows: pre-gelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum); acid hydrolysis giving rise to very rapid retrogression during cooling; oxidation by strong oxidants (alkaline medium, in the presence of sodium hypochlorite NaOCl for example) leading to the depolymerization of the starch molecule and the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule (mainly oxidation of the group C6 hydroxyl); Dextrinization in an acid medium at high temperature (hydrolysis then repolymerization); crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); Alkaline esterification for the grafting of functional groups, especially C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), hydroxyalkyl C1-C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic. In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (type Am-O-PO- (OX) -O- Am) or even triamidon (of the type Am-O-PO- (O-Am) 2) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes in particular the alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), the alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), the ammonia salts, the amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate. According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites, preferably they are bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from compounds of the following formulas: ## STR2 ## CH-CH-COOM St-O- (CH 2) FNN CH-CH-COOM R 'R (I) COOM R 1 I CH -CH-COOM St Embedded image in which: - St-O represents a molecule of -O - (CH 2) FN R "R 'R" St-O - -COOM 3025103 54 R' R "St-O-C1-1-CHCOOM (IV) starch; 5 - R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R ', which is identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group; n is an integer; equal to 2 or 3; 10 - M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, organic, a quaternary ammonium or an amine - R "represents an atom hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are in particular described in US Pat. Nos. 5,455,340 and 4,017,460. The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Tex-Instant (pre-gelatinized adipate), C * StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C * PolarTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl), C * Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C * size (oxidation), C * BatterCrisp (oxidation), C * DrySet 25 (dextrinisation), C * TexTM (acetylated diamidon adipate), C * PolarTexTM (hydroxypropylated diamidon phosphate) ), C * StabiTexTM (diamidon phosphate, acetylated diamidon phosphate) by Cargill, diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, such as the product sold under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (phosphate de hydroxypropylated manioc gelatinized diamidon) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated diamidon phosphate 3025103) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate g élatinisé). As examples of oxidized starches, use will be made in particular those marketed under the name C * size of the company Cargill.

The native or modified starches described above may advantageously be used in a proportion of 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter, and preferably about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the product. aqueous phase Particle starches As particulate starches may be particularly mentioned: - starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially with sodium polyacrylate, such as for example those sold under the name Sanfresh ST- 100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 by Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch); hydrolysed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially acryloacrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, for instance those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223; , A-100, C-200, D-223, by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer); polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as that containing starch and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, such as for example that marketed under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac. Particularly suitable are the (C 1 -C 4) carboxyalkyl starches, hereinafter referred to as "carboxyalkyl starch". These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups on one or more alcohol functions of the starch, in particular by reaction of starch and sodium monochloroacetate in an alkaline medium.

The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly to carbon 1. The degree of substitution in the carboxyalkyl unit of the (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl of starch is preferably 0.1 at 1, and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as the average number of hydroxyl groups substituted by an ester or ether group per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide. The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and especially of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such as mono, di or 10 triethanolamine. The (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously in the context of the present invention carboxymethyl starches. The carboxymethyl starches preferably comprise units of the following formula: embedded image in which X, whether or not covalently bonded to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such as for example such as mono, di or triethanolamine. Preferably, X denotes an Na + cation. The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably cross-linked carboxyalkyl starches, partially or totally. In general, a crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch has, as opposed to a non-crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch, an increased viscosity, controllable and increased stability. The crosslinking thus makes it possible to reduce the syneresis phenomena and to increase the resistance of the gel to shearing effects. The carboxyalkyl starches considered according to the invention are more particularly potato carboxyalkyl starches. Thus, the carboxyalkyl starchs that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starch, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch sold, for example, under the name PRIMOJEL® by the company DMV International or GLYCOLYS® and GLYCOLYS ® LV by the Roquette Company.

According to one particular embodiment, the potato carboxymethyl starches sold in particular under the name GLYCOLYS® by the Roquette Company will be used. As stated above, the starch-containing carboxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) particles are present in the compositions according to the invention in an inflated and unexploded form. This swelling may be characterized by a swelling power Q which may advantageously be between 10 and 30 ml / g, preferably between 15 and 25 ml (volume of absorbed liquid) / g of dry particulate material. Thus, the size of the swollen carboxyalkyl starch particles used according to the present invention generally ranges from 25 to 300 μm. For example, PRIMOJEL® gel with 10% by weight of potato carboxyalkyl starch and sodium salt in water contains more than 80% of swollen particles of this starch having a diameter greater than 50 microns, and more particularly greater than 100 microns. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these particles are used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, in this swollen particulate state. To do this, these particles are advantageously used in the form of an aqueous gel either prepared beforehand or already commercially available. The gels considered according to the invention are advantageously translucent.

For example, a carboxymethyl starch gel such as PRIMOJEL® which is at a concentration of 10% by weight can be adjusted to the required concentration before being used to prepare the expected cosmetic composition. Such a particulate starch may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight. and in particular at a rate of approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-cellulullic lipophilic gelling agent" is understood to mean a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention and which does not comprise in its structure any cellulose group of chemical formula: or any other grouping cellulose derivative resulting from the reaction of OH groups of cellulose with chemical reagents such as a cellulose ether (ethylcellulose), cellulose ester (carboxymethylcellulose) or cellulose ester-ether. The lipophilic gelling agent is therefore present in the oily phase of the composition.

The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible. The non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from particulate gelling agents other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point of greater than 75.0 ° C., organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers. with hydrogen bonding other than silicone polyamides and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point greater than 75.0 ° C., semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrocarbon polyamides and mixtures thereof. .

I. Particulate gelling agents The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical. As representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for the invention, polar, polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels may be particularly mentioned. The waxes The waxes are defined above.

The waxes which may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes which are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may in particular be polar, apolar hydrocarbon with a melting point of less than or equal to 75.0 ° C., silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally having ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Polar wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. a is different from 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. In particular, "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as a carbon atom. oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based. By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax: ester waxes such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. iii) diester waxes of a carboxylic acid diacid of the general formula R 3 - (- 000 R 4 -COO-R 5), wherein R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably identical, and represent a C 4 -C 30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups, and preferably linear and unsaturated. (iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, etc. , hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

In another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcoholic wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol 550 Alcohol marketed by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. B) Silicone waxes It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Examples of commercial silicone waxes of this type include those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric). The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 20 -C 60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer. Silicones or C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of carnauba wax, polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax. They may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase, and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase. The modified clays The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.

The clays can be natural or synthetic and are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed. under the name of Bentone 38V® by Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis. The lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20%, more particularly from 1% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight. oily phase. Silicas The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica airgel particles. a) Pyrogenic Silica Particularly suitable for the invention, the hydrophobic treated silica treated surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot. The fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. b) Hydrophobic silica aerogels The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed as mean diameter by volume (D [ 0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, more preferably from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, I.tm and better still better from 5 to 15 lm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as a volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably at 25 iam, better from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 type commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3. In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit SV volume ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then the mixture is triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate). "Hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Hydrophobic silica airgel particles which are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI Silica silylate, will preferably be used. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose The particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m 2 / g. There may also be mentioned the aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the name VM- 2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Such an airgel advantageously makes it possible to promote the resistance of the deposit to sebum and sweat.

Preferably, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels are present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight. by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

II. Organopolysiloxane Elastomer The organopolysiloxane elastomer, which can be used as a lipophilic gelling agent, has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft and matifying after application, especially advantageous for application on the skin. It can also allow an effective filling of the depressions present on the keratin materials. By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by a dehydrogenation-dehydrogenation condensation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam. Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to a silicon. silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule.

The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a straight chain or branched chain structure or a ring structure. The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane trimethylsiloxy endblock copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.

The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C 4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-dimethylvinylsiloxy copolymers. trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylvinylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers; . In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous if the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups ethylenically unsaturated in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1. Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acidketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B). The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer. The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular that do not contain polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and a polyglyceryl unit.

In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name). ).

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be transported in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. Non-emulsifying elastomers are in particular described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in the application 113-A-61-194009. The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" can more particularly be used. KSG-43, KSG-44, by Shin Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, Dow Corning, SFE 839 by General Electric. According to one particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 cc at 25 ° C., optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. Mention may in particular be made of the following INCI name compounds: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning, 3025103 71 - Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15"; 5 - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt)); - C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinylDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by the company Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and " KSG-16 "from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)). 25-DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE (and) PHENYL VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (INCI name) such as KSG 18A marketed by SHIN ETSU). The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in the form of a powder, especially the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder, Dow Corning 9506 Powder by Dow Corning, powders are INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have the name INCI: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer. Examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin which can advantageously be used according to the invention include, in particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers of the INCI VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOANE CROSSPOLYMER name, such as those sold under the trade reference "KSP-100" of US Pat. Shin Etsu company. As the preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, there may be mentioned cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE 20 SILSESQUIOANE CROSSPOLYMER, DIPHENYL S IL 0 XY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE (and) PHENYL VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (INCI name) and in particular the Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name). The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 70% by weight of dry matter, in particular between 0.2% and 60% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the oily phase. III. Semi-crystalline polymers The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "semicrystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-phase transition). liquid). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature increase of 5%. or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram). The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin and the lips. According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. For the purposes of the invention, the term "chain or crystallizable block" means a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

Preferably, the polymeric backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting temperature. Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or co-polymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequential or multisequenced. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) crystallizable (s) ( s), - polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, - polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic polycondensates, - ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis, and - copolymers acrylate / silicone.

The semicrystalline polymers that can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from: 3025103 - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, - polycondensates, and in particular of polyester, aliphatic type or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, 5 - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, - homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers bearing in the backbone at less a crystallizable block, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,156,911, such as the (Cio-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimere polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97 ) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and whose melting temperature is equal to 49 ° C., homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333 acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid and grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers polydimethylsiloxane, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (name CTFA: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amount of semicrystalline polymer (s), preferably selected from semicrystalline crystallizable side chain polymers, is from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.2% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 20%, or from 0.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

IV. Dextrin Esters The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dextrin ester. In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, preferably of C12 to C24, in particular of C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is a C12-C18, in particular C14-C18, fatty acid dextrin ester. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling. According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This may for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling. In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dextrin ester (s), preferably from 0.2% to 25% and from preferably from 0.5% to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. V. Hydrogen Bonded Polymers As a representative of the hydrogen bonded polymers suitable for the invention, hydrocarbon polyamides may be particularly preferred. The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon polyamide. Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon-based polyamide (s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight, expressed in dry matter, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 1%. and 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units.

By "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" is meant a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups. Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000 g / mol, and better still from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol. This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2 or a -OR 'group in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical; , n is from 2 to 5, and mixtures thereof According to a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia): X + CR n L 0 0 0 0 1. a 3025103 78 in which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, and mixtures thereof, The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise in addition, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib): ## STR2 ## wherein X represents a group -OR 'in which R 1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22, preferably C16 to C22, alkyl radical which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 15 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer ". Advantageously, the hydrogen-bonded polymer is the ethylene diamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.

VI. HYDROCARBON SEQUENCE COPOLYMER As representative of lipophilic gelling agents, other polymeric gelling agents may also be mentioned which are the hydrocarbon block copolymers also known as block copolymers.

The polymeric gelling agent is capable of thickening or gelling the hydrocarbon phase of the composition. By "amorphous polymer" is meant a polymer that does not have a crystalline form. The polymeric gelling agent is preferably also film-forming, i.e., capable of forming a film upon application to the skin and / or the lips. The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof. Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534.

The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably lower than or equal to -40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 ° C. and 20 ° C., in particular between -100 ° C. and 0 ° C.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, in particular having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or the like. pentadiene. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin. Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, copolymers of styrene-ethylene / butylene. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene / propylene, or a mixture of diblock, as described above, is used as polymeric gelling agent. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, preferably a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks. , more preferably a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, such as a styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymer, a styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymer.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer (or the mixture of hydrocarbon block copolymers) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrocarbon polyamides, block-block hydrocarbon copolymers, particulate gelling agents chosen from polar waxes, apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point less than or equal to 75.0 ° C., silicone waxes, modified clays, silicas, especially hydrophobic silica aerogels, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from: semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block such as (Cio-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec and for example the product Intelimer® 30 IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate of weight molecular weight of about 145,000 and having a melting point of 49 ° C; And hydrocarbon polyamides and in particular amide-terminated polyamide mixtures of formula (Ia): in which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2 in which R 1 is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22 alkyl radical, to be identical or different from each other, R2 is a C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5 and additional polyamides of formula (Ib): XLC R2 In which X represents a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, preferably a C16 to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical. or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is from 2 to 5, such as the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer"; hydrophobic silica aerogels, the hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name of Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis. According to a still more preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from: semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, - hydrocarbon polyamides, - hydrophobic silica aerogels, - hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride According to a particularly preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises A lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride. According to one particular variant, a composition according to the invention comprises: at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS®), cross-linked and or neutralized copolymers, and more particularly the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate and-at least non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent selected from C10-C22 ammonium chloride-modified hectorites, and particularly hectorites modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. Preferably, the total content of lipophilic gelling agent (s) is between 0.1% and 80% by weight of dry matter, in particular from 0.2% to 60% by weight, preferably between 2% by weight. and 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

LIPOPHILIC (S) HYDROPHILIC (S) / GELIFYING (S) SYSTEM (FR) As illustrative and not limiting of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) systems that are particularly suitable for In particular, the following systems may be mentioned: 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid copolymers, crosslinked and or neutralized / semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, said crystallizable chain being lateral or in the skeleton; - copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and or neutralized / hydrocarbon polyamides; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid copolymers, crosslinked and or neutralized / hydrophobic silica aerogels; - and more particularly: copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and or neutralized / hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride; - carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not / semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, said crystallizable chain being lateral or in the backbone; - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers / hydrocarbon polyamides; - carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not / hydrophobic silica aerogels; and more particularly: modified or unsubstituted carboxyvinyl polymers / hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride According to a particularly preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from copolymers Of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS®), crosslinked and or neutralized, and more particularly the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate and - at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, and more particularly hectorites modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, at least one UV filter. Even more particularly, said UV filter is chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic filters and their mixtures, and more particularly liposoluble organic UV filters.

UV FILTERS The compositions according to the invention contain at least one UV filter. Preferably, the UV filter that is suitable for the invention is chosen from water-soluble UV filters, fat-soluble UV filters, insoluble UV-filters, and mixtures thereof. Among these UV filters, it is possible to distinguish the water-soluble organic filters, the fat-soluble organic filters, the insoluble organic filters and the inorganic filters. Preferably, the UV filter (s) are chosen from water-soluble UV filters, liposoluble UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic filters and mixtures thereof and more particularly liposoluble organic UV filters.

By "water-soluble UV filter" is meant any UV radiation filtering compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscibilized in the molecular state in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form). ) in an aqueous phase. By "liposoluble filter" is meant any UV radiation filtering compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscibilized in the molecular state in a fatty phase or capable of being solubilized, in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a fatty phase. By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any compound which filters out UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents, such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and triglycerides of fatty acids, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, performed at 70 ° C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the equilibrium solvent with an excess of suspended solid after return to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

WATER-SOLUBLE ORGANIC UV FILTERS WITH WATER-SOLUBLE ORGANIC UVA FILTERS By "hydrosolubic organic UVA filter" is meant any organic compound filtering UVA radiation in the wavelength range 320 to 400 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscible with water. the molecular state in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of: 3025103 benzene-1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulphonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.

These filters correspond to the following general formula (I): F (I) in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an NH (R 1) 3+ radical in which the radicals R 1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or else a Mn + / n group, Mn + denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn + denoting preferably a metal cation selected from Ca2 +, Zn2 +, Mg2 +, Ba2 +, A13 + and Zr4 +. It is understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bonds and that all the isomers are within the scope of of the present invention.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups containing sulphonic groups, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-0669323. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US Pat. No. 2,463,264 and patent application EP-A-0669323. The compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the following general formula (II): embedded image in which: Z represents an organic radical of valence (1 + n) containing one or more double bonds positioned such that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined within the brackets to form a fully conjugated set; X 'denotes S, O or NR6 - R1 denotes hydrogen, C1-C18 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, C5-C15 aryl, C2-C18 acyloxy, SO3Y or COOY; the radicals R2, R3, R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, denotes a nitro group or a radical R1; - R6 denotes hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl; Y denotes hydrogen, Li, Na, K, NH 4, 1/2 Cu, 1/2 Mg, 1/3 Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogen base; m is 0 or 1; n is a number from 2 to 6; -1 is a number from 1 to 4; with the proviso that + n does not exceed the value 6. Among these compounds, those for which the group Z is chosen from the group consisting of: (a) a linear aliphatic olefin-C 6 hydrocarbon radical which can be interrupted are preferred with a C5-C12 aryl group or a C4-C10 heteroaryl, in particular chosen from the following groups: -CH = CH-, -CH = CH-CH = CH- or CH = CH (b) an aryl group C5-C15 which can be interrupted by a C2-C6 linear aliphatic olefin hydrocarbon radical, in particular chosen from the following groups: (c) a C3-C10 heteroaryl radical in particular selected from the following groups: N where R6 has the same meaning as above; said radicals Z as defined in paragraphs (a), (b) and (c) may be substituted by C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxy, methylenedioxy or amino optionally substituted by or 2 C 1 -C 5 alkyl radicals. Preferably, the compounds of formula (II) contain, per molecule of 1, 3 or 4 SO3Y groups.

Examples of compounds of formula (II) that may be used include compounds of formulas (a) to (j) and of the following structure and their salts: SO3H (c) HO3S SO3H (d) SO3H (e) HO3S (f) SO3H 10 HO3S SO3H (g) HO3S SO3H (h) 3025103 89 HO3S SO3H (0) HO3S SO3H Of these compounds, the most preferred is 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Di sodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) (compound (d)) or one of its salts of following structure sold especially under the name of NEOHELIOPAN AP® by the company Symrise: 10 HO, S SO3H Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulphonic acid function, for example the following compounds: Benzophenone-4, sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Uvinul O OH 0 HO-S = 0 O 20 B enzophenone-5 with a structure of 3025103 Benzophenone-9, sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Uvinul DS49e: ## STR2 ## Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters, 1,4-benzene acid will be used more particularly. (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) and its various salts (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) especially manufactured by the company CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SX®. The water-soluble organic UVA filter (s) according to the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a concentration of active material ranging from 0.01% to 30%, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. B / WATER-SOLUBLE ORGANIC UVB FILTERS By "water-soluble organic UVB filter" is meant any organic compound filtering the UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscibilized in the molecular state. in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

The water-soluble organic UVB filters are especially selected from: water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; Water soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); water-soluble salicylic compounds and mixtures thereof. As examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters, mention may be made of those referred to below under their INCI name: para-aminobenzoic compounds: PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the name "Uvinul P 25®" by BASF.

Salicylate Compounds: Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate sold in particular under the name "DIPSAL®" by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN Tse" by 20 Symrise, Compounds Benzylidene Camphor: Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid marketed in particular under the name "MEXORYL by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate marketed in particular under the name MEXORYL soe by CHIMEX. Phenylbenzimidazole compounds: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232®" by MERCK.

In particular, the Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid filter sold in particular under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232®" by MERCK will be used more particularly. The water-soluble organic UVB filter (s) according to the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a concentration of active material ranging from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. II / LIPOSOLUBLE ORGANIC UV FILTERS By "liposoluble organic UVB filter" is meant any organic compound 10 filtering the UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscibilized in the molecular state. in a fatty phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a fatty phase. Of the fat-soluble organic UV filters, some of them are liquid at room temperature.

The liposoluble organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; 13, 13-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those mentioned in US Pat. No. 5,424,663; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives merocyanines as described in US Pat. No. 4,195,999, WO2004 / 006878, WO2008 / 090066, WO2011113718, WO2009027258 and IP COM JOURNAL Nos. 000179675D published on February 23, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL N 000182396D published on April 29, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000189542D published on November 12, 2009, IP COM Journal N'IPCOM000011179D published on 04/03/2004 and their mixtures.

As examples of fat-soluble organic UV filters, mention may be made of those referred to below under their INCI name: Dibenzoylmethane derivative Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane or Avobenzone, sold for sale under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the Company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS; Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP; Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold in particular under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" 20 by SYMRISE; Cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by SYMRISE, Cinoxate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate; Derivatives of 1,3,13-diphenylacrylate: 3025103 by BASF, 94 BASF; Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by 5 benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold especially under the trade name "UVINUL 10 D50" by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF, Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay, 15 Benzophenone -8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, n-hexyl benzophenone-12, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL A" + "Such as" UVINUL A + GRANULAR "or in the form of a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate, especially under the trade name" UVINUL A + B "by BASF; Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor marketed in particular under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor marketed in particular under the name "Mexoryl SW" by CHIMEX; Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold in particular under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie; 3025103 Triazine derivatives: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold in particular under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by BASF, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL T150" by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVASORB" Embedded image by SIGMA 3V, the triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341, in particular 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- {1 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-trimethylsilyloxy] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] s-triazine; Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by SYMRISE, Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate; Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene, benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazole) 2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine sold in particular under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 20 3V, 3025103 96 and mixtures thereof ; Lipophilic merocyanine derivatives - Octy1-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate, and mixtures thereof; Preferred liposoluble organic filters are selected from butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane octocrylene, benzophenone-3, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4 Diisobutylamino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

The preferable liposoluble organic screening agents are more particularly chosen from n-hexyl butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate and n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate.

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The liposoluble organic UV screening agent (s) is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition. III / INSOLUBLE ORGANIC AND INORGANIC UV FILTERS 15 / INSOLUBLE ORGANIC UV FILTERS The insoluble organic UV filters according to the invention preferably have an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferably from 0 to 10 μm. 01 to 20, and more particularly 0.020 to 2, am. The average particle diameter was measured by a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS type manufactured by Bechman Coulter INC.

The insoluble organic filters according to the invention can be brought into the desired particulate form by any ad-hoc means such as in particular dry milling or in a solvent medium, sieving, atomization, micronisation, spraying.

The insoluble organic filters according to the invention in micronized form can in particular be obtained by a method of grinding an insoluble organic UV filter in the form of coarse particles in the presence of a suitable surfactant allowing to improve the dispersion of the particles thus obtained in the cosmetic formulations. An example of a process for micronizing insoluble organic filters is described in GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119. The grinding apparatus used according to these documents may be a jet mill, ball mill, vibration mill or hammer mill and preferably a high speed grinding mill or an impact mill and more particularly a rotary ball mill, a vibrating mill, tube mill or rod mill.

According to this particular process, alkylpolyglucosides having the structure CnH2n + 1 0 (C6I-11005) H in which n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the degree of the surfactants used for grinding said filters. means of polymerization of the unit (C6E11005) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6. They may be chosen from C1-C12 esters of a compound of the structure CnH2n + 1 0 (C6I-11005) 'H and more precisely an ester obtained by reaction of a C1-C12 carboxylic acid such as formic, acetic, propionic, butyric, sulphosuccinic, citric or tartaric acid with one or more free OH functions on the glucoside unit (C6E11005). As alkylpolyglucoside, mention may be made in particular of decylglucoside.

Said surfactants are generally used at a concentration ranging from 1 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the insoluble filter in its micronized form.

The insoluble organic UV filters in accordance with the invention may be chosen especially from organic UV filters of the oxalanilide type, of the triazine type, of the benzotriazole type; vinyl amide type; of the cinnamide type; of the type comprising one or more benzazole and / or benzofuran, benzothiophene or indole groups; aryl vinylene ketone type; of the phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type, amide derivative, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate type or mixtures thereof.

As used in the present invention, the term benzazole includes both benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles and benzimidazoles. A / Oxalanides Among the UV filters of the oxalanilide type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of those having the structure: ## STR2 ## in which T1, T'1, T2 and T'2 denote identical and different, a C1-C8 alkyl radical or a C1-C8 alkoxy radical. These compounds are described in patent application WO95 / 22959. By way of examples, mention may be made of the commercial products TINUVIN 315® and TINUVIN 312® sold by the BASF Company and respectively of structure: 15 B / Triazines Among the insoluble UV-screening agents of the triazine type according to the invention, it is also possible to mention those corresponding to the following formula (II): wherein T3, T4, T5, independently, are phenyl, phenoxy, pyrrolo, in which the compounds of formula (II) phenyl, phenoxy, pyrrolo unsubstituted or substituted with one, two or three substituents selected from OH, C1-C18alkyl or C1-C18alkoxy, C1-Ciscarboxyalkyl, C8-C8cycloalkyl, methylbenzylidenecamphor, - (CH = CH). (C0) - OT6, with T6 being C1-C18alkyl or cinnamyl. These compounds are described in WO 97/03642, GB 2286774, EP-743309, WO 98/22447, GB 2319523.

Among the triazine type UV filters in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of the insoluble s-triazine derivatives bearing benzalmalonate and / or phenylcyanoacrylate groups, such as those described in the application EP-A0790243 (forming an integral part of the content of the description).

Among these insoluble UV screening agents of the triazine type, mention will be made more particularly of the following compounds: 2,4,6-tris (diethyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisopropyl) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (dimethyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (a- ethyl cyano-4-aminocinnamate) -s-triazine. Among the UV triazine type filters in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of the insoluble s-triazine derivatives bearing benzotriazole and / or benzothiazole groups such as those described in application WO98 / 25922 (an integral part of the content of the description). Among these compounds, mention may be made more particularly of: 2,4,6-tris [(3'-benzotriazol-2-yl-2'-hydroxy-5'-methyl) phenylamino] -s-triazine, -2,4 6-tris [(3'-benzotriazol-2-yl-2'-hydroxy-5'-ter-octyl) phenylamino] -strapriazine.

The symmetrical triazines substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, the application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine 5 Derivatives" IP.COM, may also be mentioned. Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) including 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) -triazine and 2,4,6-tris (ter-phenyl) -triazine which is reported in patent applications W006 / 035000, W006 / 034982, W006 / 034991, W006 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985.

10 C / B enzotriazoles Among the insoluble organic UV filters of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of those of the following formula (III) as described in application WO95 / 22959 (forming an integral part of the content of the description): Wherein T7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C18 alkyl radical; Tg and T9, identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical optionally substituted with a phenyl.

By way of example of compounds of formula (III), mention may be made of the commercial products TINUVIN 328, 320, 234 and 350 of the BASF Company with the following structure: ## STR2 ## ) Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type according to the invention, mention may be made of the compounds as described in US Pat. No. 5,687,521, US Pat. No. 5,373,037, US Pat. No. 5,687,521 and US Pat. 362 881 and in particular [2,4'-dihydroxy-3- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -5- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -2'-n-octoxy-5'- benzoyl] diphenylmethane sold in particular under the name MIXXIM PB30® by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL structure: OH 0 (n-C81-117) OH tertC8H17 0 CH2 10 Among the insoluble organic UV filters of the benzotriazole type according to the invention, it is possible to mention the bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) methylene derivatives of the following structure: CH 2 (IV) 10 11 in which the radicals T 10 and T 11, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl radical in C1-C18 may be substituted with one or more radicals selected from C1-C4 alkyl, C5-C12 cycloalkyl or aryl residue. These compounds are known per se and are described in US Pat. No. 5,237,071, US Pat. No. 5,166,355, GB-A-2,303,549, DE 197,264 and EP-A-893,119 (forming an integral part of the description).

In the formula (I) defined above: the C 1 -C 18 alkyl groups may be linear or branched and are, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl or tert-octyl. , n-amyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexydecyl, or octadecyl; C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl groups are, for example, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cyclooctyl; aryl groups are for example phenyl, benzyl.

N-Compound (c) Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of those of the following structure: OH compound (a) OH compound (b) Compound (a) of 2,2'-methylene-bis nomenclature [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol] is especially sold under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 200® by the company Fairmount Chemical. The compound (c) of 2,2'-methylene-bis-4- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] is sold in particular in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 200® by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL.

Among the organic insoluble vinyl amide type filters, there may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of the following formula which are described in the application WO95 / 22959 (forming an integral part of the content of the description): ## STR4 ## Y) rC (= O) -C (T13) = C (T14) -N (T15) (T -) (V) in which T12 is a C1-C18 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C5 or a group phenyl optionally substituted with one, two or three radicals selected from OH, C1-C18 alkyl, C1-C8 alkoxy, or -C (= O) -OT17 where T17 is C1-C18 alkyl; T13, T14, T15 and T16, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C18 alkyl radical, preferably a C1-C5 alkyl radical, or a hydrogen atom; Y is N or O and r is 0 or 1. Among these compounds, mention will be made in particular of: 4-octylamino-3-penten-2-one; Ethyl-3-octylamino-2-butenoate; 3-octylamino-1-phenyl-2-buten-1-one - 3-dodecylamino-1-phenyl-2-buten-1-one. E / Cinnamamides Among the insoluble organic cinnamamide type filters in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of the compounds as described in the application WO95 / 22959 (forming an integral part of the content of the description) and having the following structure: Wherein OT18 is hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy, preferably methoxy or ethoxy; T19 is hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl, preferably methyl or ethyl; T20 is a - (CONH) s-phenyl group or s is 0 or 1 and the phenyl group may be substituted with one, two or three groups selected from OH, C1-C18 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, or -C (= O) -OT21 group where T21 is C1-C18 alkyl and more preferably T21 is phenyl, 4-methoxyphenyl or phenylaminocarbonyl. Mention may also be made of cinnamamide dimers such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,888,481, for example the compound of structure: ## STR1 ## Among the insoluble organic benzazole-type screening agents, mention may be made of those corresponding to one of the following formulas: wherein each of X is independently oxygen or sulfur or NR 2, each of Z is independently N or CH, each of R 1 is independently OH, halogen atom, a linear or branched C 1-8 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, or a linear or branched C 1-8 alkoxy group, (VII) n (A), (R 1) m 3025103 Each of the numbers m is independently 0, 1 or 2, n represents an integer from 1 to 4 inclusive, p is 0 or 1, each of the numbers q is independently equal to 0 or 1, each of the symbols R2 represents independam hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl or benzyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, A represents a radical of valence n chosen from those of formulas: (a) (b) (c) Wherein each of R 3 is independently halogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl or alkoxy, linear or branched, or hydroxy, R 4, or R 4 (k) (1) R 3), (n) (O) represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-4 alkyl group, c = 0 - 4, d = 0 - 3, e = 0 or 1, and f = 0 - 2.

These compounds are described in particular in DE 676 103 and CH 350 763, US Pat. No. 5,501,850, US Pat. No. 5,961,960, EP0669323 patent application, US Pat. No. 5,518,713 and US Pat. No. 2,463,264. the article of J. Am. Chem. Soc., 79, 5706 5708, 1957, the article of J. Am. Chem. Soc., 82, 609-5119, 1960, patent application EP0921126, patent application EP712855.

As examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the 2-arylbenzazole family, there may be mentioned 2-benzoxazol-2-yl-4-methylphenol, 2- (1H-benzimidazol-2-yl) - 4-methoxyphenol or 2-benzothiazol-2-ylphenol, these compounds can be prepared for example according to the methods described in patent CH 350 763. As examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the benzimidazolylbenzazoles family 2,2'-bis-benzimidazole, 5,5 ', 6,6'-tetramethyl-2,2'-bis-benzimidazole, 5,5'-dimethyl-2,2'-bis- benzimidazole, 6-methoxy-2,2'-bis-benzimidazole, 2- (1H-benzimidazol-2-yl) benzothiazole, 2- (1H-benzimidazol-2-yl) benzoxazole and N, N'-dimethyl-2,2'-bis-benzimidazole, these compounds may be prepared according to the procedures described in US Pat. Nos. 5,961,960 and 2,463,264.

Examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the phenylene benzazole family are 1,4-phenylene-bis (2-benzoxazolyl), 1,4-phenylenebis (2-benzimidazolyl), and ), 1,3-phenylene-bis- (2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis- (2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis- (benzimidazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis (2-benzoxazolyl), phenylene-bis- (N-2-ethylhexyl-2-benzimidazolyl) and 1,4-phenylene-bis (N-trimethylsilylmethyl-2-benzimidazolyl), these compounds being capable of being prepared according to the procedures described in US Pat. No. 2,463 264 and in J. Am. Chem. Soc., 82, 609 (1960) and J. Am. Chem. Soc., 79, 5706-5708 (1957). Examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) in the benzofuranyl-benzoxazole family are 2- (2-benzofuranyl) -benzoxazole, 2- (benzofuranyl) -5-methylbenzoxazole and 2- ( 3-methyl-2-benzofuranyl) -benzoxazole, which compounds can be prepared according to the procedures described in US Pat. No. 5,518,713.

Preferred compounds of formula (VIII) include, for example, 2,6-diphenyl-1,7-dihydro-benzo [1,2-d; 4,5-d] -di-imidazole corresponding to Formula 3025103 or 2,6-distyryl-1,7-dihydro-benzo [1,2-d; 4,5-d1-diimidazole or 2,6-di (p-tert-butylstyryl) -1,7-dihydrobenzo [1,2-d; 4,5-d '] - di-imidazole, which can be prepared according to the application EP 0 669 323. Preferred compound of formula (IX) is 5,5'-bis - [(phenyl) -2 ) - benzimidazole] of formula: the preparation of which is described in J. Chim. Phys., 64, 1602 (1967). Among these insoluble organic compounds which filter the UV radiation, 2- (1H-benzimidazol-2-yl) benzoxazole, 5ole, 6-methoxy-2,2'-bis-benzimidazole, 2- (1H) are particularly preferred. benzimidazol-2-yl) -benzothiazole, 1,4-phenylenebis (2-benzoxazolyl), 1,4-phenylenebis (2-benzimidazolyl), 1,3-phenylenebis (2-benzoxazolyl) ), 1,2-phenylenebis (2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylenebis (2-benzimidazolyl) and 1,4-phenylenebis (N-trimethylsilylmethyl-2-benzimidazolyl).

Examples of the aryl vinylene ketone type insoluble organic screening agents are those corresponding to one of the following formulas (X) and (XI): ## STR2 ## wherein: ## STR2 ## In the formula (X) when n '= 1 or in the formula (XI), is an aryl radical selected from the following formulas (a') to (d '), or in the formula (X) when n '= 2, is a radical selected from the following formulas (e') to (h '): (R8) P, (b') (d ') (e') (f) (g) ') (h') wherein: each of R8 is independently an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C1-6 alkyl group and optionally containing a silicon atom, a C1-alkoxy group; -6, linear or branched and optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1-5 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C1-6 alkylsulfonamide group optionally containing a silicon atom or a functional group; n amino acid, p 'represents an integer between 0 and 4 inclusive, q' represents 0 or 1, R5 represents hydrogen or an OH group, R6 represents hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-6 alkyl group; and optionally containing a silicon atom, a cyano group, a C1-6 alkylsulfonyl group, a phenylsulfonyl group, R7 represents a linear or branched C1-6 alkyl group and optionally containing a silicon atom or a phenyl group which may forming a bicycle and optionally substituted with one or two radicals R4, 3025103 or R6 and R7 together form a C2-10 hydrocarbon radical monocyclic, bicyclic or tricylic, optionally interrupted by one or more atoms of nitrogen, sulfur and oxygen and which may contain another carbonyl, and optionally substituted by a linear or branched C1-C8 alkylsulfonamide group, and optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function; provided that when n '= 1, R6 and R7 do not form a camphor ring. By way of examples of compounds of formula (X) in which n '= 1, insoluble, filtering UV radiation, having an average particle size of between 10 nm and 5 nm, the following families may be mentioned: styryl ketone type compounds as described in the application JP 04 134 042 such as 1- (3,4-dimethoxy-phenyl) -4,4-dimethyl-pent-1-en-3-one: MeO OMe - the benzylidene cineole compounds such as those described in Section 15 of E. Mariani et al., 16th IFSCC Congress, New York (1990)) such as 1,3,3-trimethyl-5- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -2-oxa-bicyclo [2.2.2] octan-6-one: OMe - compounds of the benzylidene chromanone type such as those described in application JP 04 134 043 such as 3- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -2, 3,4a, 8-tetrahydro-20-chromen-4-one: benzylidene thiochromanone compounds such as those described in patent application JP 04 134 043 such as 3- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -2,3,4a, 8a-tétrahydrochromèn-4-thion e: OMe 5 - compounds of the benzylidene quinuclidinone type such as those described in application EP 0 576 974 such as 4-methoxybenzylidene-1-azabicyclo [2.2.2] octan-3-one: OMe - compounds of the benzylidene type cycloalkanone such as those described in application FR 2 395 023 such as 2- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -cyclopentanone and 2- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -cyclohexanone: O MeO - compounds of the benzylidene hydantoin type such as those described in JP 01 158 090 such as 5- (3,4-dimethoxy-benzylidene) -imidazolidine-2,4-dione: MeO MeO MeO - benzylidene indanone compounds such as those described in US Pat. application JP 04 134 043 such as 2- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -indan-1-one: - compounds of the benzylidene tetralone type such as those described in patent application JP 04 134 043 as 2- ( 4-methoxy-benzylidene) -3,4-dihydro-2H-naphthalen-1-one: OMe 5 - benzylidene furanone compounds such as those described in In the application EP 0 390 683 such as 4- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -2,2,5,5-tetramethyldihydro-furan-3-one: - compounds of the benzylidene benzofuranone type such as those described in the application JP 04 134 041 such as 2-benzylidene-benzofuran-3-one: - compounds of the benzylidene indanedione type such as 2- (3,5-di-tertbuty-4-hydroxy-benzylidene) -indan-1,3- dione: benzylidene benzothiofuranone compounds such as those described in JP 04,134,043) such as 2-benzylidene-benzo [b] thiophen-3-one: benzylidene barbituric compounds such as 5- ( 4-methoxybenzylidene) -1,3-dimethylpyrimidine-2,4,6-trione: orle - benzylidene pyrazolone compounds such as 4- (4-methoxybenzylidene) -5-methyl-2-phenyl-2 4-Dihydro-pyrazol-3-one: MeO - benzylidene imidazolone compounds such as 5- (4-methoxybenzylidene) -2-phenyl-3,5-dihydro-imidazol-4-one; The compounds of the chalcone type such as 1- (2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl) -3-phenylpropenone: the benzylidene one compounds as described in the document FR 2 15 506 156 as the 3- hydroxy-1- (2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-phenyl) -3-phenyl-propenone: ## STR1 ## As examples of compounds of formula (X) in which n '= 2 insoluble, filtering UV radiation having an average particle size of between 10 nm and 5 μm, the following families can be mentioned: - phenylene bis methylidene-nor-camphor type compounds as described in EP 0 693 471 as the 4-phenylene-bis- {3-methylidenebicyclo [2.2.1] heptan-2-one}: the compounds of the phenylene bis methylidene camphor type as described in document FR 2 528 420, such as 1,4-phenylene bis-{3-methylidene-1,7,7-trimethyl-bicyclo [2.2.1] heptan-2-one} or 1,3-phenylene-bis-{3-methylidene-1,7,7- trimethylbicyclo [2.2.1] heptan-2-one} - phenylene bis methylidene camphor sulfonamide compounds such as those described in FR 529 887 such as ethyl 1,4-phenylene-bis-3,3'-methylidene camphor-10,10-sulfonamide or 2-ethylenediamine. 1-ethylhexyl: Et-1 OR 3025103 and L1- and - phenylene bis methylidene cineole compounds as described in the article E. Mariani et al, 16th IFSCC Congress, New York (1990) as the 1, 4-phenylene-bis- {5-methylidene-3,3-dimethyl-2-oxa-bicyclo [2.2.2] octan-6-one} 5-the phenylene bis-methylidene ketotricyclodecane compounds as described in EP 0 694 521 discloses 1,4-phenylenebis (octahydro-4,7-methano-6-inden-5-one): phenylene bisalkylene ketone compounds such as those described in US Pat. JP 04 134 041 such as 1,4-phenylene-bis- (4,4-dimethyl-pent-1-en-3-one): the compounds of the phenylene bis-methylidene furanone type as described in the French La No. 2,638,354 such as 1,4-phenylene-bis- (4-methylidene-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-dihydrofuran-3-one): 5-phenylene bis methylidene quinuclidinone compounds such as those described in EP 0 714 880 such as 1,4-phenylene-bis- {2-methylidene-1-aza-bicyclo [2.2.2] octan-3-one}: As compounds of formula (XI), mention the following families: - compounds of the bis benzylidene cycloalkanone type such as 2,5-dibenzylidene-cyclopentanone: compounds of the gamma pyrone type as described in JP 04 290 882, such as 2,6-bis (3,4-dimethoxy-phenyl) -pyran-4-one: Among these insoluble organic compounds which filter UV radiation of the aryl vinylene ketone type, compounds of formula (X) in which n '= 2 are particularly preferred. .

Among the organic insoluble phenylene bis-benzoxazinone type screening agents, mention may be made of those corresponding to the following formula (XII): ## STR2 ## where R represents a divalent aromatic radical chosen from following formulas (e) to (h): in which: each of R 9 is independently an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C 1-6 alkyl group and optionally containing a silicon atom, a C 1-6 alkoxy group, linear or branched and optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C 1-5 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C 1-6 alkylsulfonamide group optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function, p "represents an integer between 0 and 4 inclusive, q" represents 0 or 1, as examples of compounds of formula (XII), insoluble, filtering UV radiation, having a mean size of Of particles between 10 nm and 5 iam, the following derivatives can be mentioned: - 2,2'-p-phenylene bis (3,1-benzoxazin-4-one), sold in particular under the trade name CYASORB UV-3638® by CYTEC, 2,2 '- (4,4'-biphenylene) bis (3,1-benzoxazin-4-one), 2,2' - (2,6-naphthylene) ) bis (3,1-benzoxazin-4-one).

II Derivatives amide, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the amide, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate type, mention may be made of those corresponding to the following formula (XIII): - - CN XIII) / - in which: R10 represents a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group, n "'is 0, 1 or 2, X2 represents a divalent radical of formula - (C = O) -Ri - (C = O) - , -802-R11-802- or - (C = O) -O-R11-0- (C = O) -, Y represents a radical - (C = O) -Ri2 or -802R13, R11 represents a simple bond or a divalent radical C 1 -C 30 alkylene or C 3 -C 30 alkenylene, linear or branched, may carry one or more hydroxyl substituents and may contain, in the carbon chain, one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen atoms, d nitrogen and silicon, R12 represents a radical -OR14 or -NHR14, R13 represents a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, or an unsubstituted phenyl nucleus or is substituted by alkyl radicals or alkoxy radicals C 1 -C 4 / R 14 represents a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical or C 3 -C 30 alkenyl radical, linear or branched, may carry one or more hydroxyl substituents and may contain, in the carbon chain, a or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen and silicon. Although in formula (XIII) above, only the isomers in which the cyano substituent is in the cis position relative to the para-amino-phenyl substituent are represented, this formula should be understood to include also the corresponding trans-isomers; for each of the two double bonds and independently, the cyano and para-amino-phenyl substituents may be in the cis or trans configuration with respect to each other.

By way of example, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-344- (acetylamino) phenyl] -acrylate dimer of formula: ## STR2 ## And 5 .1 / polyvalent metals Another particular family of insoluble organic filters in accordance with the invention are polyvalent metal salts (for example Ca 2+, zn 2+, Ba 2+, m3 + or Zr 4+) of organic sulphonic or carboxylic filters such as polyvalent metals of sulfonated benzylidene camphor derivatives such as those described in FR-A-2,639,347; polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated benzimidazole derivatives such as those described in EP-A-893119; polyvalent metal salts of cinnamic acid derivatives such as those described in JP-87 166 517.

Mention may also be made of metal or ammonium or substituted ammonium complexes of organic UV-A and / or UV-B screening agents as described in patent applications WO93 / 10753, WO93 / 11095 and WO95 / 05150. Among the insoluble organic UV filters, there may be mentioned also the compound 1, 1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1 [244- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] methanone (CAS 919803- 06-8) of following structure: 3025103 as described in the application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 iam) obtainable, for example, according to the micronization process described in Applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular under aqueous dispersion form. According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the insoluble organic UV screening agents chosen from (i) the symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, the application WO2004 / 085412 ( see Compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, Inc. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) including 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) -triazine and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -triazine which is incorporated in patent applications W006 / 035000, W006 / 034982, W006 / 034991, W006 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm) obtainable for example by the micronization process described in Applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion; (Ii) methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of the following formula (IV): wherein the radicals T10 and T11, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C18 alkyl radical which may be substituted with one or more radicals selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl residue; (iii) and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) are in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 51 μm and more. preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm with at least one surfactant having the structure C0E120 + 1 0 (C61-11005), in which n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6E11005) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as defined above. Said surfactant is preferably used at a concentration of from 1 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the benzotriazole filter and the amount of benzotriazole filter of formula (I) in the dispersion The aqueous composition preferably ranges from 10 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion. The average particle diameter was measured by a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS® type manufactured by Bechman Coulter INC. According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 21 μm. and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl ester having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392.

As examples of polyglyceryl mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglycol surfactants, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl stearate, 3025103 isostearate and the like. Decaglyceryl, hexaglyceryl caprate, hexaglyceryl laurate, hexaglyceryl myristate, hexaglyceryl oleate, hexaglyceryl stearate, hexaglyceryl isostearate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglycerol oleate, pentaglyceryl stearate, pentaglyceryl isostearate. More particularly, use will be made of decaglyceryl caprate such as the products sold under the following trade names Sunsoft Q10Ye, Sunsoft Qiose, Sunsoft Q12Y®, Sunsoft Q12S®, Sunsoft M12J® by the company Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd., Nikkol. Decaglyn 1-L by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd., RYOTO-Polyglyceryl LioDe and L-7D® by Mitsubishi-Kagaku Co. Ltd., - Decaglyceryl laurate such as the products sold under the following trade names SUNSOFT Q14Y®, SUNSOFT Q14S®, SUNSOFT Q12Y®, Sunsoft Q12S®, Sunson M12J® by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd., NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-M® by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd., RYOTO-Polyglycerylester M-10D and M-7D by Mitsubishi-Kagaku Co. Ltd., - Decaglyceryl stearate such as the products sold under the following trade names SUNSOFT Q18Y®, SUNSOFT Q18S®, SUNSOFT Q12Y®, Sunsoft Q12S®, Sunsoft M12J® by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd., NIKKOL Decaglyn 1 -SV by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd., RYOTO-Polyglycerylester S-15D® by Mitsubishi-Kagaku Co. Ltd., - hexaglieryl caprate such as the products sold under the following trade names NIKKOL Hexaglyn 1-L ® by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd., GLYSURF 6ML by Aoki Oil Industrial Co. Ltd., UNIGLY GL-106® by Nippon Oil & Fats Co. Ltd., - hexaglyceryl myristate such as products sold under the trade names NIKKOL Hexaglyn 1-M®, NIKKOL Hexaglyn 1-Ove by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd, GLYSURF 6m by Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd., UNIGLY GL-106 by Nippon Oil & Fats Co. Ltd., - Hexaglyceryl stearate such as the products sold under the following trade names NIKKOL Hexaglyn 1-M®, NIKKOL Hexaglyn 1-SV® by the 3025103 123 company Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd., EMALEXMSG- 6K® by Nihon-Emulsion Co. Ltd., UNIGLY GL-106 by Nippon Oil & Fats Co. Ltd., - hexaglyceryl isostearate such as the products sold under the following trade names MATSUMATE MI-610® by Matsumoto Fine Chemical Co. Ltd., - pentaglyceryl caprate such as products sold under the following trade names SUNSOFT A10Ee, by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd., - pentaglyceryl laurate such as the products sold under the trade names SUNSOFT Al2Ee, SUNSOFT A121Ee, by Taiyo 10 Kagaku Co. Ltd., - pentaglyceryl myristate such as the products sold under the trade names Sunsoft A14Ee, Sunsoft A141Ee, by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd., - pentaglyceryl oleate such as the products sold under the following trade names SUNSOFT A17Ee, SUNSOFT A171Ee, by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd., - pentaglyceryl stearate, such as the products sold under the following trade names SUNSOFT A18Ee, SUNSOFT A181Ee, by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Among these surfactants, it is preferred to use those having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5 and more preferably greater than or equal to 15. As examples of polyglyceryl mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglyceryl surfactants having a degree of polymerization. having a glycerol polymerization degree of at least 5 having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, stearate decaglyceryl, decaglyceryl isostearate, hexaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglyceryl oleate, pentaglyceryl stearate. Examples of polyglycerol mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglyceryl surfactants having a degree of polymerization having a glycerol polymerization degree of at least 5 having an HLB greater than or equal to 15 include decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate.

The amount of methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compound of formula (IV) in the aqueous dispersion preferably ranges from 10 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion. .

Preferably, the weight ratio of methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) / mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglycerol compound ranges from 0.05 to 0.5 and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.3.

In the case of these aqueous dispersions, the compound methylene bis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) of the formula (IV), the compound 2,2'-methylene-bis-4- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1) will be used more particularly. , 1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol] of structure: Compound (a) such as the commercial product sold under the name TINOSORB M® by BASF which is an aqueous dispersion comprising decylglucoside, xanthan gum and propylene glycol (INCI name: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum).

The insoluble organic UV filter (s) of the invention are present at a concentration of active material preferably ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. B / INSOLUBLE UV INORGANIC FILTERS The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elemental particle size of less than or equal to 0.50 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.50 μm, and even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more preferably between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

By "elementary size" is meant the size of non-aggregated particles. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in the patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments mention may be made in particular of the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK AND DEGUSSA.

The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin ), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "Sunveil" from the company IKEDA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company IKEDA, Silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, 3025103 126 - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENT S, - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01" from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil CT 100" from the company UNIQEMA and the product " Eusolex T-AVO "from MERCK, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product" MT-100 AQ "of the company TAYCA tee, 10 - aluminum alumina and laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA, - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F "of the company TAYCA, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product" BR 351 "from the company TAYCA, - silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS "," MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS "or" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS "from TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product" STT-30-DS "from the company TITAN KOGYO, - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product" UV-TITAN X 195 "from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO55 (S)" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from 25 SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" ISHIHARA, 30 hexametaphosphate sodium such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" from the company TAYCA. - TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold especially under the trade name "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices, - TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold in particular under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by the company CARDRE, 5 - the anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold in particular under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES. It is also possible to mention TiO 2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may further comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO 2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE by INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold in particular under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 by the company CRODA. Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE 30 MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name 3025103 128 "UFTR", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ" . The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed in particular under the name Z-cote by the company Sunsmart; those marketed in particular under the name "Nanox" by the company Elementis; those marketed in particular under the name "Nanogard WCD 10 2025" by Nanophase Technologies; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed in particular under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); Those marketed in particular under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, Cu-Cu alcohol benzoate); those marketed in particular under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and the polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed in particular under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); Those marketed in particular under the name "SPD-Z1" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed especially under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone); those marketed in particular under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); - those marketed in particular under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in benzoate C12-C15 alcohols with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE P OULENC. Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ", "NANOGARD WCD". 2006 (FE 45R) ", or by MITSUBISHI under the name" TY220 ". The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", or by BASF under the name "OXYDE DE FER TRANSPARENT". Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide and cerium-coated cerium dioxide equivalent mixture, sold by the company IKEDA under the name SUNVEIL. A ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, with silica and with glycerine such as the product "M 211" sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred. The insoluble inorganic UV filters of the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As stated above, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the UV filter (s) is (are) chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular form of the invention, the composition comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPSO) copolymers, crosslinked and and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, and more particularly hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one UV filter selected from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof and preferably liposoluble organic UV filters. Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention may furthermore be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 30% by weight. 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature. A polyol suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four functions -OH. The polyols which are particularly suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol. polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol. Oily phase For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to an alternative embodiment, the oils of silicone origin are preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example as hydroxyl or acid radicals. By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (101 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). of Hg). Volatile oils Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone. Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) with C 8 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and the like. isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.

It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12). and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n- tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Nonvolatile oils Nonvolatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made in particular of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R 1 COROR 2, in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 atoms of carbon provided R1 + R2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, selected from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as lactate, isostearyl, hydro octyl xystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, sotridecyl isononanoate, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, branched-chain carbon-containing liquid fatty alcohols and / or or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, non-phenyl silicone oils, for example caprylyl methycone, and phenyl silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, ph nyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone viscosity of less than or 20 equal to 100 cSt, the triméthylpentaphényltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. Such silicone oils are particularly preferred when the lipophilic gelling agent is an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. As specified above, the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase. Dyestuffs A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate dyestuff, which may or may not be water-soluble, and preferably at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For obvious reasons, this amount is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs in question and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of the man of the art. 'art. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 18% by weight. % by weight of dyestuffs, relative to the total weight of said composition. As specified above, the dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyestuff" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase, or water-miscible and colorable solvents. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC 20 Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. For the purposes of the invention, the term "liposoluble coloring matter" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase, or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring. As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow may be mentioned. 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsulubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown , quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin The particulate coloring materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight. % by weight and preferably from 5% to 18% by weight of particulate materials, based on the total weight of the composition containing them, and may especially be pigments, pearlescent agents and / or particles with metallic reflections. By "pigments" is meant white or colored, mineral or organic particles, in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 5% to 18% by weight. by weight of pigments, based on the total weight of said composition. Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 5%, and preferably at least 3% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition. The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, blue ultramarine and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of about 30. It may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides. By "nacres" are meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica. covered with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company 20 ENGELHARD, the nacres Timiron marketed by the company Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the Eckart company and the nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "metal-reflective particles" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface state enables it to reflect the incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: the particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

By "metal derivatives" is meant compounds derived from metals including oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart, and glass particles coated with a metal layer. especially those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Hydrophobic treatment of dyestuffs The pulverulent dyestuffs as described above may be surface-treated, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, in particular so that they have good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase. Hydrophobically treated pigments are in particular described in EP-A-1086683. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; hexafluoropropylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in skincare and / or makeup compositions. These fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to confer on the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat. As an illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine , starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. It is also possible to use particles, which are in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789. In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition. according to the invention in a content of between 0.01% and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 25% by weight, in particular between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition may comprise at least solid particles such as pigments and / or fillers.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise a dispersing agent. Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them. According to a particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is a surfactant. According to one particular variant, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is devoid of surfactant. Active For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant).

Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerine. The moisturizing agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or even from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to to the total weight of said composition. Other active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, vitamins. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent. It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a photoprotective skin care composition and / or keratin fibers, especially the hair, in particular the body and the face. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a make-up makeup base composition.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin 5 and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick. Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.

The invention is further illustrated by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass. Methodology for Oscillation Dynamic Rheology Measurements These are harmonic rheological measurements that measure the elastic modulus. The measurements are carried out using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25 ° C with a plane plane 60 mm and a gap of 2 mm. Measurements in harmonic regime make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products. The technique involves subjecting a material to sinusoidally varying stress over time and measuring the response of the material to that stress. In a field where the behavior is linear viscoelastic (zone where the deformation is proportional to the stress), the stress (T) and the deformation (y) are two sinusoidal functions of time which are written in the following way: where sin represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa); yo represents the maximum amplitude of the deformation (-); = 2IN represents the pulsation (rad.s-1) with N representing the frequency 5 (Hz); and represents the phase shift of the stress with respect to the deformation (rad). Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency but they are out of phase by an angle δ. According to the phase shift S between r (t) and y (t), the behavior of the system can be apprehended: If S = 0, the material is purely elastic; - If S = II / 2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid); and - If 0 <S <II / 2, the material is viscoelastic. In general, the stress and the deformation are written in complex form: - T * (t) = To eiwt 15 y * (t) = yo e (word + Ô) A modulus of complex rigidity, representing the overall resistance of the material the deformation whether of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by: G * = r * / y * = G '+ iG "20 Where: G' is the conservation modulus or elastic modulus which characterizes the stored energy and totally restored during a cycle, G '= (ro / yo) cos S, and G "is the loss modulus or viscous modulus which characterizes the energy dissipated by internal friction during a cycle, G "= (ro / yo) sin δ.

The parameter used is the modulus of average stiffness G * measured at the plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. EXAMPLES In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given in% of raw material by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The following formulas are prepared so that the mass percentage of the oily phase, the mass percentage of the aqueous phase, the mass percentage of oily gelling agent, the mass percentage of aqueous gelling agent, remains constant. the mass percentage of UV filters. All the other constituents of the formulas are present in the same mass percentage. Preparation of the compositions Preparation of the lipophilic phases L The fatty phase is gelled with at least one oily gelling agent with or without organic or particulate filters. In the compositions according to the invention, the fatty phase is gelled by Disteardimonium Hectorite (bentone VCG) alone (Examples 1-2 and 9). The comparative examples are gelled either with Ethylcellulose (Examples 3, 4, 10, 11 and 12), or with a high melting point apolar hydrocarbon wax, Microcrystalline Wax (Examples 5 and 6) or a silicone polyamide. (Examples 7 and 8). Procedure: Initially, all fat-soluble filters and hot-soluble raw materials are weighed in a beaker and solubilized with mechanical stirring at 80 ° C.

As soon as the filter solution is macroscopically clear, the oily gelling agents are added with mechanical aggression using a "deflocculator". In order to obtain a homogeneous gelled phase, the solvents are added under the same mechanical agitation. The gel obtained constitutes a homogeneous gel.

Preparation of hydrophilic gels The components of the aqueous phase are weighed in a beaker and stirred. The aqueous phase is gelled with at least one aqueous gelling agent with or without organic or particulate filters.

In the compositions according to the invention, the aqueous phase is gelled with the hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloylmethyl taurate copolymer - Sepinov EMT 10 (examples let 2) or with a Carbomer (example 9).

The comparative examples are gelled either with the hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloylmethyl taurate copolymer - Sepinov EMT 10 (comparative examples 3 to 8) or with a Carbomer (example outside the invention 10) or with a poloxamer (example outside the invention 11) or the sodium CMC (example of the invention 12).

Procedure: The aqueous gelling agent is introduced into the aqueous solvents with stirring using a "deflocculator" at room temperature. The gel obtained constitutes a homogeneous gel. Gel / gel procedure Since the lipophilic and hydrophilic phases are macroscopically homogeneous, the gel / gel is prepared by mixing the two phases in a "kneader" mixer equipped with a tank and an axial blade with moderate stirring during 4 minutes. The final gel is characterized by macroscopically homogeneous, bicontinuous dispersion.

Tested properties Observation of the macroscopic appearance of the oily gel, the aqueous gel, and the gel / gel are observed at: tO, that is to say, at the end of formulation, at the vessel outlet; that is to say after 2:00 rest at room temperature.

Compositions: Compounds Example 1 Example 2 In accordance with Example 3 Example 4 Comparative comparative INCI name PHASE B Ethylhexyl salicylate 5-LIPOPHIL sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise Octocrylene sold under the name Uvinul N53 9 T by BASF Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 - 3 - sold under the name Avobenzone by MFCI Disteardimonium Hectorite 5 - - marketed under the name Bentone 38 VCG by Element s Ethylcellulose marketed under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemicals Propylene carbonate 15 15 marketed under the name Arconate propylene carbonate by Lyondell 3025103 Compounds Example 1 Example 2 in accordance with Example 3 Example 4 Comparative comparative INCI name Octyldodecanol sold 277 277 277 277 under the name Eutanol G by Cognis Caprylyl glycol marketed 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 under the name Dermasoft Octiol by Dr. Straetmans Phenoxyethanol marketed 05 05 05 05 under the name Sepicide LD by Seppic Disodium EDTA marketed 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 under the name EDETA BD by BASF PHASE A Terephthalylidene Dicamphor - 18 - 18 HYDROPHIL Sulfonic Acid (33% MA) sold under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic - 6 - 6 acid marketed under the name Eusolex 232 by Merck Triethanolamine marketed - 6.75 - 6.75 under the name Triethanolamine by BASF Water-water deionized 39.9 9.15 39.9 9.15 Caprylyl glycol marketed 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 under the name sold under the name Dermasoft Octiol by Dr. Straetmans Phenoxyethanol marketed under the name Sepicide LD by Seppic Glycerin marketed under the name 7 7 7 7 Glycerine USP name by VVF Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 acryloydimethyl taurate copolymer marketed under the nameSepinov EMT 10 by Seppic Results: For the compositions according to 1 and 2, the oily gel, the aqueous gel, and the final gel / gel are always homogeneous at t0 and t1.

On the other hand, with regard to the comparative composition 3, the macroscopic appearance of the gel-gel at T1 appears phase-shifted and - and concerning the comparative composition 4, a salting out of the oily gel at T1 is observed as well as a phase shift of the gel-gel at tO.

COMPOUNDS EXAMPLE 5 EXAMPLE 6 EXAMPLE 7 EXAMPLE 8 COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE PHASE B Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5-LIPOPHIL sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise Octocrylene sold under the name Uvinul N53 9 T by BASF Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 - 3 - marketed under the name Avobenzone by MFCI Microcrystalline Wax 5 - - marketed under the name Microwax HW by Paramelt Nylon-611 / Dimethicone - 5 copolymer marketed under the name Dow Corning 2-8179 gellant by Dow Corning Propylene carbonate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 sold under the name Arconate propylene carbonate by Lyondell Octyldodecanol marketed 277 277 277 277 under the name Eutanol G by Cognis Caprylyl glycol marketed 0 1 0.1 0.1 0, 1 under the name Dermasoft Octiol by Dr. Straetmans Phenoxyethanol marketed 0.5 0.5 05 05 under the name Sepicide LD by Seppic Disodium EDTA sold 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 under the name EDETA BD by BAS F PHASE A Terephthalylidene Dicamphor - 18 - 18 HYDROPHIL Sulfonic Acid marketed under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic-6-6 acid marketed under the name Eusolex 232 by Merck Triethanolamine marketed - 6.75 - 6.75 under the name Triethanolamine by BASF Water-water desiomed 39.9 9.15 39.9 9.15 Caprylyl glycol marketed 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 under the name marketed under the name Dermasoft Octiol by Dr. Straetmans Phenoxyethanol marketed 0.5 0 , 5 05 05 under the name Sepicide LD by Seppic Glycerin sold under the name Glycerine USP by VVF Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 acryloydimethyl taurate copolymer marketed under the nameSepinov EMT 10 by Seppic 3025103 147 Results: For all the comparative compositions 5, 6, 7 and 8, during the study of the macroscopic appearance of the oily gel, a heap of said oily gel is observed as soon as t0, accompanied for the compositions 7 and 8 presence of oil on the surface. In addition, a dephasing of all these comparative gel-gel compositions of t0 is observed. COMPOUNDS EXAMPLE 9 EXAMPLE 10 EXAMPLE 12 EXAMPLE 12 INCI COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE COMPARATIVE PHASE B Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7 7 7 7 LIPOPHILE marketed under the name Parsol MCX by BASF Disteardimonium Hectorite 5 - - - marketed under the name Bentone 38 VCG by Element s Ethylcellulose marketed Under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemicals Propylene carbonate sold under the name Arconate propylene carbonate by Lyondell Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 35.9 37.4 37.4 37.4 marketed under the name Triglyceride C8 / C10 by Stearineries Dubois Caprylyl glycol marketed 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 under the name Dermasoft Octiol by Dr. Straetmans Phenoxyethanol marketed 05 05 05 05 under the name Sepicide LD by Seppic PHASE A Water-water dislodged 46.9 46.9 46 , 9 46.9 HYDROPHILIC Caprylyl glycol marketed 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 under the name Dermasoft Octiol by Dr. Straetmans Phenoxyethanol marketed 05 05 05 05 under the name Sepicide LD by Seppic Carbomer marketed under 1.25 1.25 - - name Carbopol 980 Polymer by Ashland Triethanolamine marketed 1,25 1,25 - - under the name Triethanolamine by BASF Synperonic PE / L 64-LQ- (CQ) _ - 2,5 - sold under the name Ploxamer by Croda Sodium CarboxyMethylCellulose - - - 25 sold under the name Blanose by Ashland 3025103 148 Results For the compliant composition 9, the oily gel, the aqueous gel, and the final gel / gel are still homogeneous at tl. against, for the comparative compositions 10, 11 and 12, the macroscopic appearance of the gel-gel at tl appears out of phase. Only Examples 1, 2 and 9 in accordance with the invention lead to stable and homogeneous compositions which also have a pleasant sensory.

Claims (20)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition, in particular cosmetic makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent; at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulophilic lipophilic gelling agent; different from apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point above 75.0 ° C and silicone polyamides; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one UV filter. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, natural or non-starchy polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. 3. Composition according to Claim 2, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent is a synthetic polymeric gelling agent, preferably chosen from cross-linked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers. . 20 4. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from the crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate, the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, the acrylate copolymers. Cio-C30-alkylacrylate and crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrocarbon polyamides, block block hydrocarbon copolymers, particulate gelling agents chosen from waxes. polar, apolar waxes having a melting point of less than or equal to 75.0 ° C., silicone waxes, modified clays, silicas, especially hydrophobic silica aerogels, and mixtures thereof. 3025103 150 6. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and semi-crystalline homo- or co-polymers bearing in the backbone of the invention. less than one crystallizable block, hydrocarbon polyamides, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, preferably hectorites modified with a C10 to C10 ammonium chloride, 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS®), cross-linked and or neutralized copolymers, and more particularly copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, and particularly hectorites modified with di-stearyl chloride, methyl ammonium, at least one UV filter. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more UV filters are selected from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the liposoluble organic UV filters. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the or UV filters are present in whole or in part, and preferably only in the gelled aqueous phase or are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled oily phase. 25 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing the gelled aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase / oil phase weight ratio of 95/5 to 5/95, preferably of 20/80 to 80/20 and even more preferentially. ranging from 30/70 to 70/30. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least solid particles such as pigments and / or fillers. 3 02 5 103 151 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. 13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one moisturizing agent, preferably glycerine. 14. A process for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point greater than 75.0 ° C. and silicone polyamides; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one filter W. 15. Method according to the preceding claim, comprising a step of mixing at least two gelled phases. 16. Process according to any one of claims 14 or 15, in which the mixture is produced at room temperature 17. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, and / or keratinous fibers, in particular the hair comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13. 18. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, and / or keratinous fibers, in particular the hair comprising at least the application on said keratinous substances of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application on said keratin material, of an aqueous phase gelled with at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent other than apolar hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point of greater than 75.0 ° C. and silicone polyamides; and said composition further comprising at least one W filter. 19. A cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin, and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of a composition as defined according to one of the following: any of claims 1 to 13. 20. Cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.