FR3058053B1 - METHOD FOR PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF HAIR USING DIAMINE AND REDUCING AGENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which comprises the use of: i) one or more diamines, and ii) one or more reducing agents, said diamine (s) and / or said reducing agents being carried out in a single composition or in separate compositions applied to the fibers, it being understood that the composition (s) containing said diamine (s) does not comprise (include) maleic acid or salts of maleic acid. The present invention also relates to a kit suitable for the implementation of this method.

Description

Permanent hair deformation process using a diamine and a reducing agent

The present invention relates to a process for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which comprises the use of one or more diamines and one or more reducing agents contained in one or more compositions applied to keratinous fibers, in particular the hair.

The present invention also relates to a kit comprising at least two compartments.

Many people are unhappy with the appearance of their hair, especially people who have hairy hair often seek to get smooth hair and, conversely, those with straight hair want to have curly hair.

One of the techniques usually used to obtain a permanent deformation of the hair consists, in a first step, in the opening of the disulfide -SS- bonds of keratin (keratocystin) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (step of reduction) and, after rinsing the thus treated havel, generally with water, to reconstitute said disulfide bonds in a second time by applying to the hairprimarily put under tension (for example by hair curlers), an oxidizing decomposition (oxidation step, called also fixation) to finally give hair the desired shape.

This technique makes it possible, for example, to smooth the hair (hair straightening) or, on the contrary, to curl the hair. The new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is permanent over time and particularly resistant to the action of washes with water or shampoo, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary smoothing, such as a discount in fold.

The compositions that can be used for carrying out the reduction stage generally contain, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulfites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols. Among these, those commonly used are cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, their salts and their esters, including glycerol thioglycolate.

The oxidizing compositions necessary for carrying out the fixing step are most often oxygen-based water-based compositions.

However, this technique does not give full satisfaction. Indeed, although the latter is very effective in modifying the shape of the hair, it can be aggressive for the capillary fibers, which is mainly due to the different laying times longer or shorter compositions used during such a process.

This technique can thus induce, in the long run, an alteration of the quality of the hair resulting in a reduction of their cosmetic properties, such as their brightness and a degradation of their mechanical properties, more particularly of their mechanical resistance, due to a swelling of the hair during the rinsing step. of reduction and the oxidation step which can result in an increase in their porosity. These disadvantages are observed especially with thioglycolic acid which is generally used in basic environment at pH values ranging from 8.5 to 9.5.

Moreover, if the technique of permanent hair deformation described above is applied to hair having previously been artificially colored, it may lead to degradation or stripping of this artificial coloring.

Similarly, if a coloration is applied to hair hairpins according to the technique described above, the color obtained is very different from the color normally obtained on natural hair non-permed.

There is therefore a real need to find a new process of permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular hair not having all the disadvantages described above, that is to say which does not affect the integrity and the quality of keratin fibers while providing good cosmetic properties at keratin fibers. In parallel, this process must maintain good performance in terms of permanent deformation of the keratin fibers, in particular with a residual effect at several shampoos.

Surprisingly, it has now been discovered that a process for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which comprises the use of one or more diamines and one or more reducing agents applied sequentially or simultaneously to the fibers. keratin allowed to achieve the desired properties in terms of integrity, quality and cosmetics keratin fibers while obtaining a deformation of good quality and durable keratin fibers.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a permanent deformation process for keratinous fibers, in particular hairs, comprising the use of: i) one or more diamine (s), and ii) one or more reducing agent (s). (S), wherein said diamine (s) and said reducing agent (s) are used in a single composition or in separate compositions applied to the fibers, it being understood that the the composition (s) containing said diamine (s) does not comprise maleic acid or salts of maleic acid.

The implementation of this process makes it possible to obtain a permanent deformation of keratinous fibers of good quality and excellent with several shampoos while preserving the quality and integrity of the keratinous fibers. In addition, the implementation of this process makes it possible to provide good cosmetic properties, in particular gloss and softness to the touch, keratin fibers.

Optionally, the process of the invention may also employ one or more oxidizing agents. The invention also relates to a kit suitable for implementing the method of the invention. This kit comprises at least two compartments: a first compartment comprising a reducing composition which comprises one or more reducing agents; a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition which comprises one or more oxidizing agents, one or more diamines being included in the reducingposition and / or in the oxidizing composition and / or in one or more separate composition (s) included in one or more additional compartments, it being understood that the composition (s) containing the said diamines does not comprise (include) maleic acid salts of maleic acid, and preferably does not include (include) monomeric unsaturated ethylenic compounds. Other features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

As explained above, the process according to the invention comprises the use of one or more diamines.

In a preferred manner, the diamine or diamines are chosen from the following compounds of formula (I):

in which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R, R ', R And R '", independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, unradical alkoxyalkyl comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxyaminecomprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n, p and q, independently of each other, represent a number ranging from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 20, it being understood that for any value n, p or q greater than or equal to 2, the radicals R, R ', R "and R'" may be different from a CRR 'or CR "R'" to the other.

In the context of the invention, the term "alkyl radical" is understood to mean linear or branched alkyl radicals which may be substituted or non-substituted.

Preferably in the formula (I), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 represent a hydrogen atom.

Preferably in the formula (I), R, R ', R "and R' 'represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

Preferably in the formula (I), n, p and q, independently of each other, represent a number varying from 1 to 15.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention, the diamine or diamines are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 are hydrogen atoms, R and R "Are hydrogen atoms, - R 'and R'", independently of each other, are chosen from a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, - n and q vary from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3; are better than 2, p varies from 1 to 15, preferably from 2 to 13.

Thus, the diamine or diamines are preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated diamines, preferably polyoxyethylenated diamines and polyoxypropylenated diamines. As polyoxyalkylenated diamines, there may be mentioned diamines sold under the trademark JEFFAMINE® by the companyHUNSTMAN, in particular JEFFAMINE® series D, ED series and series EDR. As a JEFFAMINE® of the D series, mention may in particular be made of diamines D-230, D-400, D-2000 and D-4000. As JEFFAMINE® of the ED series, the diamines HK-511, ED-600, ED-900 and ED-2003 can notably be cited. As JEFFAMINE® of the EDR series, EDR-148 and EDR-176 diamines can be cited.

In a very particularly preferred manner, the diamine or diaminesmises used in the process according to the invention are chosen from lapoly (propylene glycol) bis (2-aminopropyl ether) with a number of propylene glycol units equal to about 2.5 (JEFFAMINE). ® D-230), O, O'-bis (2-aminopropyl) polypropylene glycol-block-polyethylene glycol-block-polypropylene glycol with an average number of propylene glycol units equal to about 3.6 and a number of units glycol equal to about 9 (JEFFAMINE® ED-600), or with a number of propylene glycol units equal to about 6 and an average number of ethylene glycol units equal to about 12.5 (JEFFAMINE® ED-900) and 2, 2 '- (ethylenedioxy) bis (ethylamine) (JEFFAMINE® EDR-148).

Among the oxyalkylenated diamines, 4,9-dioxa-1,12-dodecanediamine or 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine may also be mentioned.

In the process according to the invention, the diamine (s) preferably represent from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

As explained above, the process according to the invention also employs one or more reducing agents.

The reducing agent (s) are preferably chosen from sulfur reducing agents.

Among these, there may be mentioned thioglycolic acid and its derivatives esters and amides, especially glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine and its derivatives (C1-C4) acylated such as N-acetyl-cysteamine or N-propionyl-cysteamine , cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, thiomalic acid, pantheatin, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl) -o-hydroxyalkylamidestels as those described in patent application EP354835, the N N-N, N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides such as those described in patent application EP368763, aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in patent application EP432000, derivatives of N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamides and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides as described in patent application EP465342, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides such as those described in patent application EP514282, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl ahioglycolate and (2-hydroxy-1-methyl) ethyl thioglycolate described in patent application FR2679448, mercaptoalkylaminoamides such as those described in patent application FR2692481, N-mercaptoalkylalkane diamides described in patent application EP653202, derivatives of formamidinesulfinic acid, sulfites and bisulfites. If appropriate, these compounds can be used in the form of salts.

In a particularly preferred manner, the reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from cysteine, cysteamine, ethioglycolic acid and its salts or esters, sulphites, bisulfites, and mixtures of these compounds.

In a very particularly preferred manner, the reducing agent (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts. The most preferred reducing agent is ammonium thioglycolate.

The reducing agent or agents preferably represent from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and especially from 4 to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

As previously explained, the composition (s) containing the diamine (s) does not comprise (include) maleic acid or maleic acid salt.

Preferably, the composition (s) containing the diamine oules does not comprise (include) monomeric compounds with ethylenic unsaturation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "ethylenically unsaturated monomeric compound" is understood to mean a compound that is polymerizable and consists of a single unit and comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond. Examples of monomeric compounds with ethylenic unsaturation are, for example, maleic acid, fumaric acid, (meth) acrylic acid and their salts.

As explained above, in the process according to the invention, the diamine (s) and the reducing agent (s) are used in one and the same composition or in separate compositions.

Thus, in a first embodiment of the process according to the invention, the diamine (s) and the reducing agent (s) are present in one and the same composition.

In this first embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises a step of application to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, of a compositioncomprising one or more diamines as defined above and one or more reducing agents such as defined above.

In a second embodiment of the process according to the invention, the diamine (s) and the reducing agent (s) are used in separate compositions, the composition (s) comprising said diamine (s) being applied ( s) before and / or after the composition comprising the at least one reducing agent.

In this second embodiment, the method according to the invention generally comprises i) a step of application to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair of a compositioncomprising one or more diamines as defined above and ii) a step of application to keratin fibers, preferably hair of a composition comprising one or more reducing agents as defined above.

In a very particularly preferred variant of this second method of implementing the method according to the invention, the composition comprising the diamine (s) is applied after the composition comprising the reducing agent (s).

The process according to the invention may also comprise the use of one or more oxidizing agents present in a separate composition of the composition comprising the reducing agent (s) and applied to the keratinous fibers thereupon. As oxidizing agents, mention may especially be made of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, and peroxygenated salts such as, for example, alkali or alkaline-earth metal sulphates, perborates and percarbonates, such as sodium, potassium, magnesium.

One or more oxidation-reduction enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase) may also be used as the oxidizing agent, optionally in the presence of their respective donor or cofactor.

Preferably, the oxidizing agent (s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures of these compounds.

In a particularly preferred manner, the oxidizing agent (s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide and alkaline bromates.

Most preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent or agents generally represent from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the poidstotal of the composition containing them.

The oxidizing agent (s) may be in the composition comprising the diamine (s) or in a separate composition.

In one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the diamine (s), the reducing agent (s) and the oxidizing agent (s) are applied in separate compositions.

Thus, in this embodiment, the method comprises the sequential application on the keratinous fibers of at least three distinct compositions: a first composition comprising the reducing agent (s) as defined above, then a second composition comprising the or the oxidizing agents as defined above, and - a third composition comprising the diamine or diaminestels defined above, applied before said first composition and / or simultaneously with the first composition and / or after the first composition, and before the second composition and / orimultaneously with the second composition and / or after the second composition, and preferably the third composition comprising said diamine or is applied between the first composition and the second composition or simultaneously with the second composition.

Preferably, in this embodiment, the process includes the sequential application on the keratinous fibers of at least three distinct compositions: a first composition comprising the at least one reducing agent as defined above, and then a second composition comprising the diamine or diaminestelles as defined above, then - a third composition comprising the said oxidizing agent (s) as defined above.

In another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the diamine (s) are included in the composition comprising the at least one reducing agent and / or in the compositioncomprising the at least one oxidizing agent.

In a first variant of this other embodiment, the diamine or diamines are included in the compositioncomprenant or reducing agents.

Thus, in this first variant of this other mode of implementation of the method according to the invention, the method comprises the sequential application on the keratinous fibers of at least two compositions: i) a first composition comprising the diamine (s) and the agent (s) then ii) a second composition comprising the oxidizing agent (s).

In a second variant of this alternative embodiment, the diamine or diamines are included in the composition comprising or oxidizing agents.

Thus, in this second variant of this alternative embodiment of the method according to the invention, the method comprises the sequential application on the keratinous fibers of at least two compositions: i) a first composition comprising the reducing agent (s), then ii a second composition comprising the diamine (s) and the oxidizing agent (s).

In a third variant of this alternative mode of operation of the process according to the invention, the diamine (s) are included in the composition comprising the reducing agent (s) and in the composition comprising the oxidizing agent (s).

Thus, in this third variant of this other embodiment of the method according to the invention, the method comprises the sequential application on the keratinous fibers of at least two compositions: i) a first composition comprising the diamine (s) and the agent (s) then ii) a second composition comprising the diamine (s) and the oxidizing agent (s).

The compositions used in the process according to the invention may furthermore comprise one or more surfactants, more particularly nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant (s) usable in the process according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & His (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C 1 -C 20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups that can range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and the like. amine oxides.

Unless stated otherwise, for these surfactants, the term "fatty" (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant which comprises as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the group consisting of CO2H, CO2 \ SO3H, SO3 ', OSO3H, oso3; o2po2h, o2po2h-, o2po22 '.

The anionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the process of the invention are especially chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha alpha olefin. sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglucoside acids. polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamidoether carboxylic acid salts; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. enC6-C24.

When the anionic surfactant or surfactants are in the form of salt, they are not in the form of zinc salts, and they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, sodium salts and the like. ammonium, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. Examples of aminoalcohol salts include mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine salts, demono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- salts and the like. methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Alkyl (C6-C24) sulphates, alkyl (C6-C24) ether sulphates, optionally oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline metal salts, are preferably used. earthy, ammonium, aminoalcohol. More preferably, the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from (C 10 -C 20) alkyl ether sulphates and, in particular, sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the compositions used in the process according to the invention comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in a decomposition usable in the process according to the invention. This surfactant can carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within a composition that can be used in the process according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant or surfactants are preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon chain. As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: those corresponding to the following general formula (II):

in which the groups R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 denoting Aliphatic unradical, linear or branched, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, especially, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C2-C6) alkyl. C 22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylsulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred, in particular tetraalkylammonium salts. the dehenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, decetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salts of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylceararyl ammonium salts, or the paraaramidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium salts commercially available under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the VAN DYK company. In particular, it is preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds.

the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (III) below:

in which R5 is alkenyl or alkylcom- porting from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, Re represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X 'is a unit selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R5 and R6 are a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups having 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R7 is a methyl group, R8 is a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular formula (IV):

in which R 9 denotes an alkyl radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 10 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group ( R9a) (R10a) (Riia) N- (CH2) 3, Rga, Riya, Riia, Ru, R12, R13 and R14, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X 'is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of following formula (V):

in which :

Ris is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

Ri6 is chosen from: - the group

the R20 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, - the hydrogen atom,

Ris is chosen from: - the group

the R22 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups,

- The hydrogen atom, R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are selected from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X 'is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R 6 is R 20 and that when z is 0 then Ris is R 22

The alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When Ris is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, Ri7, Ri9 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X 'is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, letosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium functional ester. The anion X 'is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition used in the process according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which:

R a is methyl or ethyl, x and y are 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2;

Ri6 is chosen from: - the group

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom;

Ris is chosen from: - the group

- the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (V) such as salts (especially diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate), diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-

methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, demonoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionallyoxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable origin or animal, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkylhalide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate demethyl, para methyl toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin, glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

One or more of the compositions that can be used in the process according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of demono-, di- and triester-quaternary ammonium salts with a majority weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use the salts of diphenylethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium.

The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) and those of formula (V), and even more preferably from those of formula (II).

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the process according to the invention may especially be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 alkyl) amido (C 3 -C 8 alkyl) betaines or (C 8 -C 20 alkyl) amido (C 6 -C 8 alkyl) sulphobetaines. .

Among the derivatives of secondary aliphatic amines outertiary, optionally quaternized usable, as defined above, there may also be compounds of respective structures (Bl) and (B2):

Formula (B1) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an RaCOOH acid, preferably present in cocohydrolyzed oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an organic amine ion, and

X 'represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M + and X 'are absent;

Formula wherein: B represents the group B 'represents the group u 2; X 'represents the group

or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion of an organic amine;

Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or C10-C30 alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coprahou oil in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C17, and its form iso, an unsaturated C17 group.

Compounds of this type are classified in the dictionaryCTFA, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétatee disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétatee disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate dedisodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionique acid cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacétatcommercialized by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (B'2);

Formula wherein: Y "represents the group

SO3H or the group

Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent unradical alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an organic amine ion;

Ra "represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra" -C (O) OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of one another, denotes a number ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaine, such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 2 -C 8) alkylbetaines, such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and their salts. mixtures.

More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from lacocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

The surfactants which can be used in the process according to the invention are preferably nonionic or cationic.

Preferably, when they are present, the surfactant (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

The compositions used in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more silicones.

The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone or silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

The volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from silicones having a boiling point ranging from 60 ° C. to 260 ° C., and more particularly silicones chosen from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxan marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 byUNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA , thus their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the typedimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as SILICONEVOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNIONCARBIDE, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and

tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 atoms of silicon and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics andToiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "VolatileSilicone fluids for cosmetics".

The non-volatile silicones that may be used according to the invention may be preferably non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, gumsand polydialkylsiloxane resins, polyorganosiloxanesmodified by the organofunctional groups chosen from amine groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Silicone washes measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, nonlimitatively, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA; oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, the products sold under the names ABILWAX® 9800 and 9801 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are despolydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes can also be cited.

Silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention include polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent.

The solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, letridecane or their mixtures.

More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as:

mixtures formed from an end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane hydroxide or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company DOWCORNING; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic monilicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, this product is a SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in the SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the SF 1236 product from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following: (R7) 2SiO2 / 2, (R3) 3SiO1 / 2, R7S1O3 / 2 and S104 / 2 in which R7 represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R 7 denotes a C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

These resins include the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are structurimethyl / trimethyl siloxane silicones.

Mention may also be made of the typetrimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or moreorganofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - RHODORSIL® series oils 70 633 and 763 from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; - certain oils of SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are especially C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups. alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by Swssilicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.

The silicones that can be used according to the invention generally represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

The compositions used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%. %, and even more preferably 0.1%.

In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and depression, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Non-silicone fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance that does not contain a silicon atom.

The non-silicone fatty substance or fuels that may be used in one or more of the compositions used in the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, and non-fatty acids. salified, waxes and their mixtures.

The fatty substance or bodies may be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

The liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at the temperature of 25.degree. at a shear rate of 1 s'1.

The fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, 1.013.105 Pa).

More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C10 alkanes. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, decodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic mineral origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the Parléam® brand by NOF Corporation, the squalane.

Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane, isododecane and mixtures thereof.

In a very particularly preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention have from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle, preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, decyl-2-tetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol and decyl-2-tetradecanol are especially preferred.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.

These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

They may possibly include in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. They are preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols that can be used in the invention are chosen from oleic alcohol (ouoleyl alcohol), linoleic alcohol (or linoleyl alcohol), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl alcohol) and undecylenic alcohol. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.

By liquid fatty ester is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

More particularly, the liquid esters are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic acids of C 1 -C 26 and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of atoms. decarbon of esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the estramified invention are derived.

Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearoyl, ethyl 2-isononanoate, and the like. hexyl, neopentanoated isodecyl, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-udicarboxylic acids and non-sugar alcohols di-, tri-, tetra- orpentahydroxylated C4-C26 ·

Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate and glyceryl undecylenate. , octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythritylemonoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, depentaeryltyritty tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, citrate of triisopropyl, triisotearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, deglyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisanonate and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, the palmitates of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, decetyl, stearyl, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of sodium are preferably used. alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol acrylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanate and cetyl octanoate.

Among the liquid fatty esters, it is possible to use esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids.

By "sugar" is meant oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without functionaldehyde or ketone, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Preferably, the said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, lemannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their especially alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.

More particularly, mono- and diesters, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, deglucose or methylglucose, or methylglucose dioleate (Glucate® OD) are used.

Among the sugar esters, it is possible to use esters of penteyerythrityl, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, hexaesters of capricylic and capric acids mixed with dipentaerythritol.

Among the natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di-alkacids with glycerol, it is possible to use vegetable or synthetic oils.

More particularly, said one or more vegetable or synthetic oils are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, oils. sesame, soya, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, rice bran, cotton, rose, dekiwi seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, poppy seed, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, copra, vernoia, demarjolaine, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia , of pracaxi, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMITNOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil .

Preferably, liquid triglycerides used according to the invention are used as liquid esters, in particular the oils selected from avocado oil, olive oil, decamellar oil, apricot kernel, and mixtures thereof and esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, in particular 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate.

Fatty acid means a non-salified fatty acid, that is to say that the fatty acid must not be in the form of a generally soluble soap, that is to say that it must not be salified by a based.

More particularly, the liquid fatty acids that can be used according to the invention are chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R is C7-C29alkyl or C7-C29alkenyl, more preferably C12-C24alkyl or C12-C24alkenyl; R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups and / or one or more carboxyl groups.

Preferably, the liquid fatty acid or acids are selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.

The fatty substance (s) that may be used in the compositions used in the process of the invention may also be chosen from non-liquid fatty substances at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

By non-liquid fats, is preferably meant a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of 1 s'1.

More particularly, the non-liquid "non-liquid" fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, amines and ether-grasses, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.

More particularly, the non-liquid fatty alcohols used according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol) may be mentioned. More particularly, cetylstearyl alcohol is used.

The fatty acid ester (s) and / or non-liquid fatty alcohol alcohol that can be used according to the invention are generally chosen from esters based on C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and on C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohols.

By way of example, mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octylpelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba lacquer, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, wax of hydrogenated jojoba or the absolute waxes of fleurstelle than the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified bees waxes (cerabellina) and ceramides or the like.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as natural or synthetic glycoceramides, may be chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (VI):

in which: R 'denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this radical possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with an acid; grassed or unsaturated C16-C30;

- R "denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer of 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R '"denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this radical may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl radicals; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R '' may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

The ceramides preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.

The most preferred ceramides or ceramides according to the invention are the compounds for which R 'denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids, R "denotes a hydrogen atom and R'" denotes a linear radical saturated with C15. .

Preferably, the following compounds may be chosen in particular: N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine and a mixture of these compounds.

Even more preferably, ceramides are used for which R 'denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids, R "denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl radical and R'" denotes a -CH = CH- (CH 2) 12 -CH 3 group. Other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, for example, marine waxes such as those sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

The non-liquid fatty ethers that can be used according to the invention are chosen from dialkyl ethers, especially diketyl ether and isistearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance (s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C6-C10 alkanes and linear or branched hydrocarbons, of animal or synthetic mineral origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, and their derivatives, petrolatum, petrolatum oil; fatty acid esters, in particular oils of vegetable origin and esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, these esters being more preferentially chosen from triglycerides of plant origin, fatty alcohols, liquids and mixtures thereof.

The fat or fats used according to the invention generally represent from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

The compositions that can be used in the process according to the invention also comprise water, which generally represent from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition.

The compositions which can be used in the process according to the invention can contain organic solvents which are acceptable on plancosmetics, of which, more particularly, alcohols such as alcoholic alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, monoethyl ether or polyethylene glycol. monobutyl ether diethylene glycol.

The solvents can then represent from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

The pH of the compositions that can be used in the process according to the invention is generally between 2 and 11.

The reducing compositions according to the invention generally have a pH of between 7 and 11, preferably between 8 and 10.

The oxidizing compositions according to the invention generally have a pH of between 2 and 7, preferably between 2.5 and 4.

The compositions that can be used in the process according to the invention can also contain additives such as natural or synthetic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic, associative or non-associative thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners such as electrolytes, styling polymers and sugars. , nacrants, opacifiers, filtressolaires, vitamins or provitamines, perfumes, dyes, organic or inorganic particles, preservatives, pH stabilizing agents. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives and their amount so that they do not affect the properties of the compositions usable in the process of the present invention.

These additives may be present in the compositions that can be used in the process according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

The compositions used in the process according to the invention may be in the form of wax, paste, creamplus or less fluid or thick, gel, foam, spray, lotion.

The previously described compositions, previously mixed or not, are applied to the dry or wet keratin fibers, sequentially or simultaneously.

The compositions are usually left in place on the fibers for a period generally ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes for each composition.

The process according to the invention may optionally comprise a step of raising the temperature, in particular using a flat iron (flat tongs) and or a hair dryer.

The temperature during the temperature rise step can range from 50 to 230 ° C. In particular, when using a straightener, the temperature of the temperature raising step may range from 90 to 230 ° C, preferably from 150 to 210 ° C.

Preferably, the step of raising the temperature is carried out after the application of the composition (s) comprising or diamines.

The method may optionally include a step of winding the hair around hair curlers.

Before and after the process according to the invention, the keratinous fibers may optionally be washed with anhampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

The process according to the invention can be repeated in order to increase the effects.

Preferably, the method according to the invention is a method of smoothing or straightening the hair.

The present invention also relates to a kit comprising at least two compartments: a first compartment comprising a reducing composition which comprises one or more reducing agents as defined above, a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition which comprises one or more oxidizing agents as defined above, - one or more diamines as defined abovecomprises in the reducing composition and / or in the oxidizing composition and / or in one or more separate composition (s) included in one or more additional compartments with the proviso that the composition (s) containing said diamine (s) does not comprise (include) maleic acid or maleic acid salts, and preferably does not include (include) monomeric unsaturated ethylenic compounds.

The following examples illustrate the present invention and should in no way be construed as limiting the invention. EXAMPLES: 1) Preparation of the "support" compositions

Compositions A, B and C are prepared by mixing the ingredients according to Table I below.

The contents are indicated in grams of active ingredient.

Table I

Reducing Composition A

Fixative composition B

Care composition C

2) Preparation of compositions containing one or more diamines

The compositions D, E, F and G that can be used in the process according to the invention are prepared by mixing the ingredients according to Table II below.

Table II

Composition D

Reducing composition E

Fixing composition F

Care composition G

3) Methods of permanent hair deformation

Process 1 according to the invention

The method 1 according to the invention comprises the following successive steps: 1) a shampoo marketed under the nameOptimiser Pré-Forme by L'Oréal Professionnel (shampoo used before perms and smoothings) is applied to the hair, 2) the hair is rinsed, 3 ) the reducing composition A is applied, 4) laying 15 minutes, 5) the hair is rinsed, 6) the composition (Composition D) is applied, 7) laying 5 minutes, 8) the hair is rinsed, 9) the Fixing composition B is applied, 10) laying 10 min, 11) the hair is rinsed.

The process 1 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good results in terms of smoothing and degradation of the fiber.

Method 2 according to the invention

The process 2 according to the invention comprises the following successive steps: 1) a shampoo marketed under the nameOptimiser Pré-Forme by L'Oréal Professionnel (shampoo used before perms and smoothings) is applied to the hair, 2) the hair is rinsed, 3 ) the reducing composition E is applied, 4) laying 15 min, 5) the hair is rinsed, 6) the fixing composition B is applied, 7) laying 10 min, 8) the hair is rinsed.

The method 2 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good results in terms of smoothing and degradation of the fiber.

Process 3 according to the invention

The method 3 according to the invention comprises the following successive steps: 1) a shampoo marketed under the nameOptimiser Pré-Forme by L'Oréal Professionnel (shampoo used before perms and smoothings) is applied to the hair, 2) the hair is rinsed, 3 ) the reducing composition A is applied, 4) laying 15 min, 5) the hair is rinsed, 6) the fixing composition F is applied, 7) laying 10 min, 8) the hair is rinsed.

The method 3 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good results in terms of smoothing and degradation of the fiber.

Method 4 according to the invention

The method 4 according to the invention comprises the following successive steps: 1) a shampoo marketed under the nameOptimiser Pré-Forme by L'Oréal Professionnel (shampoo used before perms and smoothings) is applied to the hair, 2) the hair is rinsed, 3 ) the reducing composition A is applied, 4) laying 15 minutes, 5) the hair is rinsed, 6) the fixing composition B is applied, 7) laying 10 minutes, 8) the hair is rinsed, 9) the composition G is applied, 10) poses 10 minutes, 11) the hair is rinsed.

The process 4 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good results in terms of smoothing and degradation of the fiber.

Claims (8)

1. Process for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising the use of: i) one or more diamine (s) chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below: in which R 1, R 1, R 3 and R 4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R, R ', R "and R'" independently of one another , represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or an alkoxyamine radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, n, p and q, independently of each other, represent a number varying from 1 to 100, it being understood that for any value n, p or q greater than or equal to 2, the radicals R, R ', R "and R"' may be different from a CRR 'or CR "R '" to the other, and ii) one or more reducing agent (s), the one or more of said amine (s) and said reducing agent (s) being implemented in a single composition or in separate compositions applied to the fibers, it being understood that the The composition (s) containing said diamine (s) does not include maleic acid or maleic acid. 2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the diamines are chosen from compounds of formula (I) in which: Ra, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a radical alkyl comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably represent a hydrogen atom, R, R ', R "and R'", independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxyamine radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen or unradical methyl, n, p and q, independently of each other, represent a number varying from 1 to 20, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 15. 3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the diamine (s) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) in which: R 1, R 2, R 1 and R 4 are hydrogen atoms, - R and R " are hydrogen atoms, - R 'and R' ", independently of one another, are chosen from a hydrogen atonia or a methyl radical, - n and q vary from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to at 3, better are equal to 2, p varies from 1 to 15, preferably ranges from 2 to 13. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diamine or diamines are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated diamines, preferably polyoxyethylenated diamines and polyoxypropylenated diamines. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diamine or diamines represent from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to to the total weight of each composition containing them. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing agent (s) are chosen from among the sulfur-reducing agents, preferably from lacysteine, cysteamine, thioglycolic acid and its salts or esters, sulphites, bisulfites, and the mixtures of these compounds, more preferably the reducing agent (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts, and more preferably still the reducing agent is ammonium thioglycolate. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing agent (s) represent (s) from 0.05 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 11% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (s) containing the diamine (s) does not comprise (include) ethylenically unsaturated monomeric compounds. 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said diamine (s) and the said reducing agent (s) are used in separate compositions, the composition (s) comprising the diamine (s) being applied ( s) before and / or after the composition comprising the or said reducing agents, and preferably after. 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises the implementation of one or more oxidizing agents present in a separate composition of the composition containing the said reducing agent (s) and applied to the keratinous fibers after it. 11. Process according to claim 10, characterized in that the oxidizing agents are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures of these compounds, preferably are chosen from hydrogen peroxide and alkaline bromates, and morepreferentially, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. 12. The method of claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the oxidizing agent (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. 13. Process according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the said diamine or diamines are included in the composition comprising the at least one reducing agent and / or in the composition comprising the at least one oxidizing agent. 14. Method according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that it comprises the sequential application on keratin fibers of at least three distinct compositions: - a first composition comprising the said reducing agent (s), and - a second composition comprising said one or more oxidizing agents, and - a third composition comprising said diamine (s) applied before, said first composition and / or, simultaneously with the first composition and / or after the first composition, and before the second composition and / or simultaneously with the second composition and or after the second composition, and preferably the third composition comprising the one or more diamines is applied between the first composition and the second composition or simultaneously with the second composition. 15. Process according to claim 14, characterized in that it comprises the sequential application on the keratinous fibers of at least three distinct compositions: a first composition comprising the said reducing agent (s), then a second composition comprising the one or more diamines, and then a third composition comprising said one or more oxidizing agents. 16. Kit comprising at least two compartments: a first compartment comprising a reducing composition which comprises one or more reducing agents, preferably as defined in claims 6 and 7, a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition which comprises one or more oxidizing agents, of preferencetels as defined in claims 11 and 12, ~ one or more diamines of formula (I) as defined in claim 1, preferably as defined in claims 2 to 5, being included in the reducing composition and / or in the composition oxidizing agent and / or in one or more separate compositions included in one or more additional compartments, it being understood that the composition (s) containing the said diamines does not comprise (include) maleic acid or maleic acid salts , and preferably does not include (include) unsaturated monomeric compounds rationéthylénique.