FR2953406A1 - Cosmetic use of an anti-glycation agent, in a composition containing a medium, for lightening the skin tone of a subject, to prevent and/or treat yellowing or darkening the skin of a subject and for make up and care of skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of an effective amount of at least one anti-glycation agent (I), for lightening the skin tone of a subject, where the anti-glycation agent is present in a composition containing a medium, at a concentration of 0.005-50 wt.% of the composition, is claimed. An independent claim is included for a composition comprising (I) and optionally at least one depigmenting agent, in the medium. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Vulnerary. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition for improving skin color as well as the use of certain anti-glycation agents for lightening the complexion of a subject.

Human complexion is a function of various factors including heredity and sunshine. It is mainly determined by the nature, concentration and distribution of melanin produced by melanocytes. There are also several other causes of skin color change. For example, we can cite, for example, the actual color of the non-melanic elements of the tissues, the blood supply, the diet and in particular its richness in carotenoids and, according to some authors, in colored polyphenols and the way of life (physical exercise, consumption of tobacco, stress ...). This change, lasting from a few hours to several years if the cause is maintained, is not always controlled and may not correspond to the image sought by the person.

When lightening is desired, a commonly used method is to apply depigmenting agents and / or to reduce exposure to solar radiation. But the other components of the complexion and in particular light skin are not taken into account.

Other solutions to overcome the change in the color of the skin consist of either applying makeup (foundation or ...) or dyes to the areas of skin concerned, or to create a tanning substitute on light skin by Maillard reaction using dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or so-called "self-tanning" substances.

However these solutions are superficial and, since they can be eliminated by friction, are fleeting (from a few hours to a few days).

There remains the need to find new compounds that can act in depth on the optical characteristics of human skin to complement the actions of those already known.

It is known that glycation and more precisely end glycation products, otherwise known as AGEs (Advanced Glycation End products) or Maillard products, may adversely affect the elasticity of the skin (Corstjens et al., Experimental Gerontology, Vol 43, 35 7, July 2008, 663-667). Indeed, these chain reactions gradually and irreversibly modify the amine molecules constituting the young skin.

Anti-glycation agents are already used locally for dermatological uses such as scarring or for cosmetic purposes such as maintaining the elasticity of the skin or preventing the development of wrinkles. Patent application WO 2008/101692 describes, for example, the use of N-acetylhydroxyproline to prevent or reduce the formation of an AGE, N- (carboxymethyl) lysine in fibroblasts in order to improve healing and reduce delayed loss of elasticity, development of dry skin and cellulite. The prevention of glycation, in the state of the art, aims to improve the mechanical properties of the skin.

Tada et al describes that AGEs can bring a yellow-brown color to the skin (Investigative Dermatology (2009), vol 129, p60) and that a mugwort extract (Artemisia, mugwort or yomogi) could cleave AGEs. and thus theoretically reduce the yellow-brown color of the skin. However, even if this extract makes a posteriori disappear the colorations of which AGEs are responsible, the color change sign a rupture of the molecules but indicates, in no case, a return to their initial state of the proteins involved in the formation of these AGEs.

To the inventors' knowledge, it has never been proposed to use agents which prevent the formation of the bond at the origin of the glycation products of the amino molecules, peptides and proteins in order to improve the optical properties and especially the color. skin. It has not been proposed to use anti-glycation agents in combination with depigmentants.

Therefore, the subject of the present invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one anti-glycation agent and at least one depigmenting agent.

Glycation reactions, also referred to as non-enzymatic glycosylations, are biological material-affecting chemical reactions that occur in a complex cascade of successive or simultaneous steps. These reactions are favored by certain conditions of temperature, pH, oxidation of the organism and duration of exposure to excesses in certain sugars. The first bridging reactions between aldehydes or ketones of the reducing sugars and the amine group of the aminated biomolecules form Schiff bases. This step may be reversible but these molecules undergo rearrangements which then form Amadori products and the reactions continue and combine with dehydration, condensation and oxidation reactions. The new molecules produced multiply, diversify and lead to AGEs, which have lost their reversibility. The steps are complex and all the mechanisms have not yet been elucidated. Nevertheless, the consequences on the skin of this chain of reactions are of a physical nature since these bypasses modify the conformation and the mobility of the peptides and proteins, which then affects their functionality.

AGEs are described as a heterogeneous class of molecules including the major subgroups: bis (lysyl) imidazolium cross-linkages, hydroimidazolones, 3-deoxyglucozone derivatives, and lysine adducts. Among the best known AGEs, mention may be made of pyrraline, N-carboxymethyl-lysine (CML), pentosidine, crossline, Nc (2-carboxyethyl) -lysine (CEL), glyoxal-lysine dimer (GOLD) , methylglyoxal-lysine dimer (MOLD), 3DG-ARG imidazolone, versperlysine A, B, C and threosidine. The levels of AGEs in the body increase in various pathologies such as diabetes, kidney failure but also during aging. Their accumulation is correlated in particular with microvascular lesions (Wautier et al., Circulation Research, 2004; 95: 233-238).

As explained above, the cascade reactions are combined reactions between the non-enzymatic glycosylation proper and the oxidation of the compounds thus formed (this is called glycoxidation). These reactions actually give rise to AGEs whose optical properties are modified: some of these products remain colorless (like N- (carboxymethyl) lysine) but can become fluorescent at certain wavelengths, notably UV, others have a modified visual aspect under natural light. This is the case of pentosidine which gives a yellow color.

Optical evolution depends on the chemical nature of the component and its environment.

When the formed products are fluorescent, the reaction is used for their chemical dosing, but it does not account for their natural light appearance in which they may not be visually detectable. As a large number of different products are formed, from size (micro to macromolecular) and different solubilities, some of which are colorless, others colored, others with a modified refractive index, the overall transformation of the appearance Visual is the sum of the optical transformations of all materials traversed by light.

The inventors have now shown that the formation of final glycation products resulting from interactions of ribose or fructose with some of the skin components may lead to yellowing or darkening of the skin.

It is therefore now possible, in the context of the invention, to fight against the change of brightness and the alteration of the skin color by using an agent that prevents the glycation reaction at the level of amino, peptide or protein molecules. , especially the dermis in combination with a depigmenting agent.

The composition according to the invention is thus capable of curbing the deposition or rearrangement at different areas of the skin, in particular the dermis, epidermis or hypoderm of molecules participating in the deep optical properties of the tissue. translating 35 by a change in the color or the diffusion of light within it that can darken, tarnish or opacify the complexion of cutaneous or mucous tissues, especially light skin (clear phototypes).

Unlike the solutions usually proposed to overcome these problems of change of skin tone (makeup, use of dihydroxyacetone, etc.), the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a more durable, cumulative effect that can, in particular, go beyond beyond three weeks, when this effect is exerted on molecules or structures whose half-life (or turn-over) is longer. Macromolecules such as elastin and collagen are molecules of this type.

This composition will also have the property of preserving the state and the appearance of the skin which evolves slowly over the years. By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin of human beings or a medium suitable for oral consumption.

The physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied and to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, especially solid or fluid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a substance which has the property of limiting and / or preventing the reaction between the amine functions of the amino molecules, proteins or peptides and the aldehyde or ketone functions of the reducing sugars.

As anti-glycation agents, mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as a blueberry extract (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example described in the application WO01 / 45648 (an extract of a plant of the genus Vaccinium: 1 to 20% of the composition) or as sold under the name "Blueberry herbasol extract PG" (hydroalcoholic extract of bilberry fruit 2%) by COSMETOCHEM, extracts of black crowberry such as Camaderm -gly®, the black pepper extract of Lapland (Empetrim nigrum) stabilized with glycerin and marketed by the company Solabia, extracts of blackcurrant, elderberry, cranberries (cranberries or cranberries lingonberries), fruit extracts Rubus such as blackberries, extracts of other black and purple red berries or their hybrids rich in anthocyanins, extracts of Myrica rubra, an extract of myrtle (Myrtus communis) rich in galacturonides and Glucosides such as the one marketed under the name Longevicell® by Silab, plantain seed extracts (Plantago major L.), manufactured by ICHIMARU PHARCOS and sold under the name Absorage® by Laserson, extract seeds of Helianthus annuus as Silab's Antiglyskin®, olive leaf extracts (Olea europeae) titrated with polyphenols and marketed by Silab, extracts of plants rich in chlorogenic or caffeic derivatives such as Yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis), an extract of Vernonia Appendiculata titrated with dihydroxy-cinnamic compounds such as that marketed under the name "Ambiaty extract" from Bayer Health Care, an extract of Inga alba bark containing tannins such as LS / COGNIS VEGELES® INGALBA LS 9729, anthocyanin-rich flower petal extracts such as mauve flower extracts such as mauve extract rich in polyphenols or Phystrogéne® from BASF, an extract of L's pericarp itchi 0.8% (Litchi chinensis) rich in catechin tannins marketed under the name of 40 LITCHIDERM® LS 9704 by LS / COGNIS, wine extracts such as white wine powder extract on maltodextrin support sold under the name "White wine dehydrated 2F" by Givaudan, a mixture of bearberry extract, marine glycogen and mannitol such as Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques Cognis, a black tea extract like Kombuchka® from Sederma, extracts of green tea, coffee, ellagic acid and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (described respectively in FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810,548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as those sold under the name Amadorine® by Solabia, carnosine (beta-alanyl). - L-histidine) of the supplier Symrise sold under the trade name Dragosine®, carcinine hydrochloride or decarboxy carnosine marketed by Exsymol under the name Alistin®, the monomethylsilanetriol of lysine marketed by Exsimol under the name Silysin C® (at 0.75% in water), peptides soya in a glycerin medium such as those sold under the name Dynachondrine IS® by VINCIENCE, rutin or rutin liposomes, such as Rutimine® from VAMA and mixtures thereof.

Preferred anti-glycation agents are bilberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus), black crowberry extracts such as Camaderm-gly®, an extract of Lapland black crowberry (Empetrim nigrum) stabilized with glycerine and marketed by Solabia, extracts of currants, elderberries, cranberries or cranberries lingonberries, fruit extracts of the genus Rubus such as blackberries, extracts of other black and purple red berries or their hybrids rich in anthocyanins , Helianthus annuus seed extracts such as Silab's Antiglyskin®, Myrica rubra extracts, olive leaf extracts (Olea europeae) titrated with polyphenols and marketed by Silab, plantain seed extracts (Plantago major L.), anthocyanin-rich flower petal extracts such as mauve flower extracts such as mauve extract rich in polyphenols or Phystrogène® from BASF, an extract from 0.8% Litchi ricarp (Litchi chinensis) rich in catechin tannins marketed under the name LITCHIDERM® LS 9704, by LS / COGNIS, manufactured by ICHIMARU PHARCOS and marketed under the name Absorage® by Laserson, ellagic acid and its derivatives and carnosine.

The preferred anti-glycation agent will be an extract of Helianthus annuus seed.

The seed extract of Helianthus annuus Antiglyskin® marketed by the company Silab is a rich ingredient in phenolic acids and glycopeptides that have been extracted from sunflower seeds. It comprises in particular about 25 to 38 g / l of dry extract, between 6 and 10 g / l of proteins and between 0.4 and 0.8 g / l of total polyphenols.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention will comprise between 0.005 and 50%, preferably between 0.005 and 10% and even more preferentially between 0.005 and 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one anti-glycation agent.

By "depigmenting agent" is preferably meant a compound acting on the melanin coloration of the skin, directly on the biosynthesis or on the transfer of melanin into the epidermis. A substance is recognized as depigmenting if it acts directly on melanin or on melanogenesis in the direction of attenuation of the resulting color.

As depigmenting agents, use may especially be made of hydroquinone and its derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol and its derivatives, arbutin and its derivatives, lucinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives.

The term "ellagic acid derivatives" means its salts, its mono- or polyethers derivatives, its mono- or polyacyl derivatives, as well as its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxyl groups.

By "resorcinol derivative" is meant for example a hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative such as those described in WO2004 / 105736 such as 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) ) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene or otherwise named phenyethyl resorcinol or phenylethylbenzenediol or styrylresorcinol. This compound has a CAS number 85-27-8. Such a compound is marketed under the name SYMWHITE 377® or BIO 377 by SYMRISE.

By "arbutin and its derivatives" is meant especially those described in EP 895779 and EP 524109 such as alpha and beta arbutin.

By "vitamin C and its derivatives" is meant in particular vitamin CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C; vitamin B3. Depigmenting agents may also be other molecules such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine and its salts or esters; ferulic acid and its derivatives; tranexamic acid and its derivatives; gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate; dioic acid; D calcium panthetine sulfonate; Lipoic acid; plant extracts such as mulberry, skullcap, rose, mint, chamomile, bearberry, plants of the family Aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®. There may also be mentioned biphenyl compounds such as magnolol, Honokiol, magnolignan and lipid compounds such as linoleic acid and its derivatives; natural or synthetic ceramides and their counterparts.

The term "ellagic acid derivatives" means its salts, its metal complexes, its mono- or polyether derivatives, its mono- or polyacyl derivatives, as well as its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxyl groups.

By "derivatives of ferulic acid" is meant in particular its esters and / or salts and / or plant extracts containing it. Preferably, the esters will be used. Examples of ferulic acid esters that may be mentioned include esters of ferulic acid and C 1 -C 30 alcohols, in particular methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate, octyl ferulate and 'oryzanyl ferulate. Examples of ferulic acid salts that may be mentioned are organic salts of ferulic acid, in particular sodium salts (for example sodium ferulate and sodium isoferulate).

As `plant extracts' containing ferulic acid, there may be mentioned rice, wheat, barley, oats, tree bark, poplar buds, asparagus, olives, berries . Preferably, the fraction of rice bran, wheat, barley, or oats will be used.

According to the present invention, the term "ceramide-type compound" means ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides, natural or synthetic.

Ceramide-type compounds are for example described in the patent applications DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95 / 23807, WO94 / 07844, EP A 0646572, WO95 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP A 0227994 and WO 94/07844, WO94 / 24097, WO94 / 10131, the teachings of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

An example of a ceramide may be a compound of the following formula (I): R 1 -CHOH-CH (NH-COR 2) (CH 2 OH) (I)

in which R1 denotes a C11-C21 alkyl radical, R2 denotes a linear, optionally hydroxylated C11-C19 hydrocarbon radical and the hydroxyl group being in the alpha position of the carbonyl, and which may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, in particular one or more two ethylenic unsaturations.

For the compounds of formula (I), preferably R1 denotes a C13-C19 hydrocarbon radical; R2 denotes a linear C13-C19 hydrocarbon radical, optionally hydroxylated, and may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations. Preferentially, R1 denotes a C13-C17 hydrocarbon radical; R2 denotes a linear C13-C19 hydrocarbon radical, optionally hydroxylated, and may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations.

Advantageously, R1 denotes a C13-C17 hydrocarbon radical; R2 denotes either a linear C13-C19 hydrocarbon radical which may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, or a hydroxyl-substituted linear C13-C19 saturated hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl group being in the alpha position of the carbonyl.

Particularly preferred compounds of formula (I) are N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine and N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.

The compounds of formula (I) are known from the state of the art, in particular in applications EP-A-500437 and EP-A-647617. For example, COSMOFERM markets N-linoleoyl-phytosphingosine under the name Ceramide IIIA® and which is known to have a depigmenting action on the skin. The term alkyl, in the context of the present invention, means a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain.

The depigmenting agent will preferably be chosen from hydroquinone and its derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol and its derivatives, arbutin and its derivatives, lucinol and its derivatives. derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine and its salts or esters, ferulic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid , methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetine sulfonate, lipoic acid, extracts of murine, skullcap, rose, mint, chamomile, bearberry, plant vegetables, Aloe family, kiwi fruit water, Paeonia suffructicosa root extract, magnolol, honokiol, magnolignan, linoleic acid and its derivatives and natural or synthetic ceramides and their counterparts.

A depigmenting agent may be selected from one of the depigmenting compounds mentioned above or a combination of some of these compounds.

The preferred depigmenting agent will be chosen from ellagic acid and its derivatives.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention will comprise between 0.0001% and 20%, preferably between 0.001% and 15%, more preferably between 0.01% and 5% and even more preferentially between 0.01% and 3%. and between 0.01 and 1%, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one depigmenting agent.

It may be useful to add ingredients to the composition that promote solubilization of the depigmenting agent. Among these ingredients, mention may be made in particular of: (i) lipophilic amino acid derivatives, such as in particular those described in patent application EP 1 269 986. A preferred lipophilic amino acid derivative is N-lauroyl sarcosinate. isopropyl marketed in particular by AJINOMOTO under the name ELDEW SL 35 205, (ii) fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, (iii) ethers such as dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); or isosorbide ethers such as dimethyl isosorbide (marketed under the name ARLASOLVE DMI by the company UNIQEMA). (Iv) esters such as benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN of FINETEX); or caprylic alcohol esters; such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS. (v) isononanoate derivatives. It may also be useful to add stabilizing ingredients to the composition of the depigmenting agents. Among these ingredients, mention may be made in particular of: a) polymers and / or block copolymers; b) amphiphilic lipids of ionic or nonionic type present in the form of vesicles in dispersion; c) constituent polymers of microspheres or microcapsules; d) constituent polymers of microparticles; e) polymers and / or surfactants forming microemulsions; f) polymers in the form of thin films; g) polyolefin emulsifiers with a polar part, the composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion; h) amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units.

The composition may advantageously comprise at least one antioxidant.

By "antioxidant" is meant a substance having an antioxidant function or opposing the free oxidizing radicals and thus preventing the oxidation of molecules whether they are glycated or not.

There may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside, plant extracts rich in non-lipophilic antioxidants such as polyphenols in the broad sense and their glucosides: procyanidolic oligomers, flavonoids and tannins. Among the many extracts containing it may be mentioned by way of example and in a non-exhaustive manner rosemary, extracts of olive leaves such as those of the company Silab, extracts of leaves or flower heads of tea (green, white red or fermented), extracts of vine products (resveratrol and its derivatives), hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid Be and a leaf extract of gingko biloba., bioflavonoids, lignans, apple phloretin, extracts of Boswellia serrata, extracts of rosemary, turmeric derivatives, Cabbage and broccoli derivatives, mint extracts, Pelvetia canaliculata brown algae extract such as Secma's Pelvetiane®, vegetable or natural lipophilic antoxidants such as carotenes and carotenoids, antioxidant essential oils. Mention may also be made of other molecules or compounds conventionally used for antioxidant protection purposes: ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, idebenone, coenzyme Q10, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, cysteic acid, jasmonic acid and their derivatives, ferulic acid, DHEA and its derivatives, BHT, BHA.

The antioxidant agent will preferably be chosen from the antioxidant agent is chosen from tocopherol and its esters, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, tea extracts , extracts of vine products, hesperitin laurate, Paeonia suffructicosa root extract, gingko biloba leaf extract, bioflavonoids, lignans, apple phloretin, extracts of Boswellia serrata, rosemary extracts, turmeric derivatives, cabbage and broccoli derivatives, mint extracts, Pelvetia canaliculata extract, vegetable or natural lipophilic antioxidants such as carotenes and carotenoids, antioxidant essential oils, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, idebenone, coenzyme Q10, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, cysteic acid, jasmonic acid and their derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, DHE A and its derivatives, BHT and BHA and even more preferably selected from gingko biloba leaf extracts, vitamin E and rosemary extracts.

The composition according to the invention will comprise between 0 and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one antioxidant. When the antioxidant is present, the composition comprises between 0.001 and 5%, preferably between 0.01 and 1%.

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one substance which is both an anti-glycation agent and an antioxidant. As a substance of this type, we can for example mention extracts of berry rich in polyphenols and anthocyanins, extracts of sunflower seed or plantain and Litchi pericarp extract (anti-glycemic and anti free radicals).

The composition according to the invention may, in a particular embodiment, comprise at least one substance which is both a depigmenting agent and an antioxidant. Examples of such substances are vitamin C and its derivatives.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may advantageously comprise at least one chelating agent.

By "chelating agent" is meant chemical or biological chelating compounds (proteins, peptides, etc.) having the capacity to disturb and modify the ionic environment by sequestering certain ions, in particular metal ions. Chelating transition metals will be preferred.

As examples of biological chelators, mention may be made of phytic acid, malic acid, citric acid, polyethylenimine, metallothionein, calmodulin, and sodium methylene phosphonate chitosan.

Preferably, according to the invention, a chemical chelating agent chosen from ethylene diamine tetracetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium, potassium, calcium, disodium, diamonium and triethanolamine salts (TEA-EDTA), diethylene triamine acid, is used. pentaacetic acid (DTPA), hydroxyethylethylene diamine tetracetic acid (HEDTA) and its trisodium salt, pyridoxamine, pyridoxine, pyridoxal, aminoguanidine, Olea europaea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

The chelating agent will preferably be selected from EDTA, DTPA, citric acid, malic acid and phytic acid.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention will comprise between 0 and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one chelating agent. When a chelating agent is present, the composition comprises between 0.01 and 1%, preferably between 0.01 and 0.1%.

In a particular embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one substance which is at the same time an antioxidant, an anti-glycation agent and a chelating agent. Examples of such substances are Silab olive leaf extract and ellagic acid and its derivatives.

It is particularly advantageous that said composition comprises at least one anti-UV filter. These anti-UV filters promote the effect of depigmenting agents.

By UV filter is meant UV and / or UV-active organic and / or inorganic UV radiation-screening agents which are hydrophilic and / or lipophilic and / or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents.

The agents that filter hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV radiation are chosen in particular from anthranilates; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in Applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition will comprise between 0 and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter. When they are present, the anti-UV filters are at a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 1%.

It is also possible to use, together with a composition according to the invention not comprising a UV filter, other products including this time anti-UV filters.

The composition will advantageously have a pH of between 3 and 6, preferably between 4 and 5.7. An insufficiently acidic environment can direct the reactions towards the formation of undesirable colored derivatives.

A particularly favorable medium is represented by the introduction into the aqueous phase formulations of a buffer system such as a citrate buffer at pH = 5 in the following proportions: 35 ml of 0.1 M citric acid 65 ml of 0.1M trisodium citrate.

Compositions according to the invention can thus, with respect to the total weight of the composition: between 0.005% and 50% of an anti-glycation agent, between 0.1% and 20% of depigmenting agent, between 0.degree. and 30% antioxidant, 0-10% metal chelator, 0-20% UV filter.

The preferred composition according to the present invention will comprise a sunflower seed extract, ellagic acid or a derivative thereof, an antioxidant selected from a gingko biloba leaf extract and a leaf extract. Olea europeae and EDTA.

The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of an effective amount of at least one anti-glycation agent advantageously selected from plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, fruit extracts of the genus Rubus, extracts of Myrica rubra , flower petal extracts, leaf extracts of Olea europeae, Myrtus communis extract, Plantago major L seed extracts, Helianthus annuus seed extracts, Ilex paraguariensis extracts, extract of Vernonia Appendiculata leaves, Inga alba bark extract, Litchi pericarp extract, wine extracts, a mixture of Bearberry extract, marine glycogen and mannitol, black tea extract, extracts of green tea, coffee, ellagic acid and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene, dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine polypeptides e and lysine, carnosine, carcinine or decarboxy carnosine hydrochloride, lysine monomethylsilanetriol, soy peptides, rutin or rutin liposomes and mixtures thereof, for lightening the complexion of the skin of a subject. The compositions according to the invention make it possible to prolong, in particular at the level of the optical properties of the skin tone, the qualities improved in terms of color, brightness or transparency of the skin to which they are applied. The result is a porcelain-like visual effect reminiscent of a young skin.

More particularly, this use will be advantageous for preventing and / or treating the yellowing and darkening of the skin of a subject or for preventing and / or treating the accumulation, at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes, of proteins complexed with ribose and / or fructose and oxidized following these bypasses.

The dermal protein more particularly concerned by this glycoxidation is collagen. Advantageously, in addition to the anti-glycation agent, at least one depigmenting agent and / or at least one antioxidant agent will be used.

The anti-glycation agent will be present in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, at a concentration of between 0.005 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention will be applied topically to the skin or administered orally. The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, and may especially be in the form of an optionally gelled aqueous solution, an optionally biphasic lotion-type dispersion, an emulsion obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or a triple emulsion (W / O / W or W / O / H) or a vesicular dispersion of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin.

The other cosmetic active agent (s) present in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, agents improving the barrier function, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing degradation thereof, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents for promoting maturation of the horny envelope, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensing agents, agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants or anti-seborrhoeic agents and anti-acne agents. One of ordinary skill in the art will choose the active agent (s) as a function of the desired effect on the keratin materials.

For the care and / or makeup of aged skin, it will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, dermodecontracting agents, synthetic stimulating agents dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, the agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells, and the agents promoting the cutaneous microcirculation for the eye contour.

In the case where it is administered orally, this composition may be in any galenic form suitable for this mode of administration, for example in the form of breakable tablets or not, granules, capsules, capsules, solutes, suspensions or solutions comprising a suitable excipient.

The invention relates to a cosmetic method for preventing the darkening or yellowing / browning of the skin of a subject, comprising applying to the skin of said subject or oral administration a composition such as defined above.

The method will preferably be used for a clear skin and / or a thin skin such as the skin of the face (with a contribution of the level of hydration of epidermal cells which modify the transparency or the diffusion of light).

The process will advantageously be carried out in the morning and / or evening, every day for a minimum of one month.

The invention finally relates to a skin or mucosal care set or kit comprising: a composition as defined above, a means for applying said composition selected from occlusive patches, microparticles; needles and devices producing ultrasound, sound waves, magnetic radiations, electric waves, electromagnetic waves, light rays, thermal radiation of temperature lower or higher than that of the surface of the skin.

The invention will be better understood, and its advantages will emerge more clearly, in the light of the following 40 examples, which are given by way of illustration, and without limitation. The amounts indicated in these examples are given in percent by weight unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES Example 1: Formulations of compositions according to the invention The percentages are expressed with respect to the total weight of the composition. 1. Face Milk INCI Name US Contents (%) SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.035 DISODIUM EDTA 0.05 GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT 0.10 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED EXTRACT 0.5 (SUNFLOWER) ELLAGIC ACID 0.5 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 7 XANTHANE GUM 0.25 POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN 2 (and) LAURETH-7 GLYCOL 5 WATER qsp GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 1.0 STEARATE 0.5 PHENOXYETHANOL 2. Protective Milk INCI Name US Content (%) SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.035 DISODIUM EDTA 0.05 OLEA SHEET EXTRACT EUROPAEA 1 (OLIVE) HELIANTHUS SEED EXTRACT 0.5 ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) ELLAGIC ACID 0.5 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 5 ISOHEXADECAN 2 XANTHAN GUM 0.25 POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN 2 (and) LAURETH-7 GLYCOL 5 16 WATER qsp GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 1.0 STEARATE TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.5 3. Protective Cream INCI Name US Content (%) HYDROXIDE SODIUM 0.035 DISODIUM EDTA 0.05 EXTRACT OF GINKGO BILOBA LEAF 0.10 EXTRACT OF HELIANTHUS ANNUUS 0.5 SEED (SUNFLOWER) ACID ELLAGIQUE 0.5 XANTHANE GUM 0.25 POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN (and) 2 LAURETH-7 GLYCOL 5 WATER qsp GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 3.0 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.5 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 OCTOCRYLENE 5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 4. Compact makeup powder Contents (%) PULVERIZED ELLAGIC ACID 1.0 MYRTILULUM PULP POWDER 1.0 STARCHED ROSEMARY EXTRACT OF 0.1 RICE Talc 42.7 Sericite 33, 0 Mica 5.0 Titanium dioxide 5.2 Iron oxides 2.1 Zinc stearate 0.9 Liquid paraffin 3.799 Phenyl trimethicone 4.8 Tocopherol acetate 0.1 Lemon essential oil 0.001 Preservatives 0.3 Example 2: Setting highlighting optical modifications of an aqueous medium containing proteins after the action of several simple sugars belonging to conventional metabolic sugars

Two tests will be performed under the same operating conditions but one with a standard biological protein (BSA = bovine serum albumin) and the other with bovine tvae II collagen.

Operating conditions: 37 ° C, followed for 9 days, ter test: 3 vials: - BSA1% - mixture of 3 simple sugars: [100mM glucose + 100mM fructose + 100mM ribose] - BSA + solution of 3 oses. 2nd test: 9 vials: - bovine collagen II 0.5% - each single dose 100mM 3 vials: (Glu, Fru, Rib) - mixture of 3 single oses each at 100mM. collagen II + each dose at 100 mM 3 flasks: (Glu, Fru, Rib) - collagen II + mixture of 3 single sugars each at 100 mM.

Evaluation: - Observation with the naked eye on a white background and photos (indicative but not calibrated), - Only for the first test: visible transmission spectrometry (400-800nm) in tanks on D6 and D9.

Results: test: With the naked eye, we can see that a yellow color develops slowly and gradually only in the BSA bottle + solution of 3 oses: yellowish from the 3rd day, clearly yellow on the 9th day. In spectrometry, the extinction is noticeable at J6 and more marked at J9, particularly between 400 and 550 nm. 2nd test: With the naked eye, a yellow color and opacification / precipitation develops slowly and gradually in the bottles with certain sugars. Yellowing is more marked with ribose.

Example 3: Detection on explants of human skin from plastic surgery These explants of human skin are kept alive for 11 days and are subjected to conditions of accelerated induced glycation.

Operating Procedure: 10 Glucose Reagents

A: Methylglyoxal 500 μM = glycemic medium positive control B: Mixture 1 = 0.2 M Fructose + 0.2 M Glucose + 0.2 M C Ribose: 2 Mixture = 0.5 M Ribose

Biological model

Each abdominoplasty was divided into several explants and put into survival in a specific medium and divided into 4 batches: Lot Number Treatment Sample Collection TO 3 None OJ T 6 None J6, J11 A 6 Methylglyoxal J6, J11 B 6 Mixture 1 J6, J1 C6 Blend 2 J6, J11 1. Treatment The products were incorporated in the culture medium at the determined concentrations. The culture medium and the products to be tested were completely renewed on days D1, D4, D5, D6, D7 and D8. 25 2. Measurement and photos At OJ, J6 and J11, 3 explants from each batch were photographed using a Nikon D60 camera with a Nikon AF Nikkor lens 28-105 mm / 3.5 Measurements Chromametry on the 3 expants having undergone the same treatment were carried out at OJ, J6 and ni, using a chromameter (Konica Minolta, CM-2600d) associated with memory and calculation software. 3. Samples 15 At 0, the 3 explants of the TO batch were taken and divided in two for histological controls and immunohistochemical markings. On day 6 and day 11, 3 explants of each lot were collected and treated in the same way. 4. Histology After fixation, the samples were dehydrated and put in a block according to a standard procedure. Sections of 5 μm were made according to a standard procedure and glued on glass slides. The microscopic observations were made by optical microscopy, using a Leica microscope type DMLB, the objective x40 or x20 and recorded in digital format. Conclusions:

Under the operating conditions described above on the explants of each of the 3 donors: The methylglyoxal (lot A): 500 μM - does not lead to a significant change in the color of the epidermis and dermis. - does not involve significant epidermal alterations. - causes a moderate increase in the expression of CML in the dermis. causes a moderate increase in the expression of pentosidine in the dermis. The mixture of 0.2M Fructose + 0.2M Glucose + 0.2M Ribose (Lot B): - causes a significant change in the color of the epidermis and dermis (darker). - causes very clear alterations - causes a fairly clear increase in the expression of CML in the dermis. 25 - causes a marked increase in the expression of pentosidine in the dermis.

The Ribose mixture at 0.5 M (batch C): - causes a significant change in the color of the epidermis and dermis (darker). - causes very marked alterations 30 - causes a moderate increase in the expression of CML in the dermis. causes a marked increase in the expression of pentosidine in the dermis.

The values recorded by the chromameter are expressed in the colorimetric system L * a * b *, and by the calculation of C *, L * being the luminance, a * and b * the coordinates on the CIE Lab colorimetric axes (more precisely L * a * b *) is a model of color representation developed in 1976 by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE). Like all systems from the CIE XYZ system, it characterizes a color using an intensity parameter corresponding to the luminance and two chrominance parameters that describe the color. It has been specially designed so that distances calculated between colors correspond to the differences perceived by the human eye. • The L * combination is clarity, which ranges from 0 (black) to 100 (white). • The component a * represents the range of the red axis (positive value) ù> green (negative) passing through the white (0) if the brightness is 100. • The component b * represents the range of the yellow axis (positive value) ù> blue 5 (negative) passing through the white (0) if the brightness is 100. C * or saturation of the color takes into account the 2 axes: C * = square root of a to the square + b to square.

Statistical analysis indicates that for Ribose and C Glucose + Fructose + Ribose treatments there is an increase in parameters b * (i.e. yellowing) and C * (i.e. an increase in saturation) and a decrease in L * (i.e., darkening) in the dermis.

The effects of yellowing and darkening increase over time of exposure: (for both treatments b * increases with time, and L * decreases over time). A marked yellowing of the dermis is thus observed in a few days when high concentrations of different sugars such as Ribose alone, a mixture of Glucose, Fructose and Ribose, are added to the survival medium.

These results are accentuated over time, vary according to the nature and the concentration of the sugars, are detectable in chromametry and statistically significant for the mixture of 3 oses and ribose alone as of J6, are visible to the naked eye on the photos, and histological alterations occur in parallel for the 3 medium enriched in sugars, observable under the microscope; their histological location being specified by the immunological markings. The glycation and its consequences are demonstrated in parallel: from the biological point of view by immunolabelings of carboxymethyl lysine (CML) and pentosidine and by microscopic observation of sections. from a physical and macroscopic point of view, by monitoring the color of the skin, in particular the dermis, by means of chromametry, and on macroscopic photos.

The study was reproduced on 3 plasties from 3 different donors of different ages and leads to equivalent results.

Chromametric analysis was validated by statistical method. 15 40 08/06 2010 18:21 FAX 33147567388 The OREAL Ij 0005/0007

Claims (21)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of at least one anti-glycation agent for lightening the skin tone of a subject, said anti-glycation agent being present in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium at a concentration of between 0.005 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the anti-glycation agent is chosen from plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, fruit extracts of the genus Rubus, extracts of Myrica rubra, extracts of petal of flowers, Olea europeae leaf extracts, Myrtus communis extract, Plantago major L seed extracts, Helianthus annuus seed extracts, Parvuariensis extract extracts, Vernonia Appendiculata leaf extract, Inga alba bark, Litchi pericarp extract, wine extracts, a mixture of bearberry extract, marine glycogen and mannitol, black tea extract, green tea extracts, coffee ellagic acid and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene, dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, carnosine, hydrochloride and carcinol or decarboxy camosin, lysine monomethylsilanetriol, soy peptides, ratin or rutin liposomes and mixtures thereof. 3. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, for preventing and / or treating yellowing or darkening of the skin of a subject. 4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further uses at least one depigmenting agent and / or at least one antioxidant agent. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the anti-glycation agent is present in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium at a concentration of between 0.005 and 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. 6. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said composition is applied topically to the skin or administered orally. 7. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one anti-glycation agent and optionally at least one depigmenting agent. 8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the depigmenting agent is chosen from: hydroquinone and its derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol and its derivatives, arbutin and its derivatives, lucinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine and its salts or esters, ferulic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D 40 calcium pantheuteine sulfonate, lipoic acid, extracts of murier, skullcap, rose, mint , chamomile, bearberry, plants of the Aloe family, water of kiwi fruit, extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root, magnolol, honokiol, magnolignan, linoleic acid and its derivatives and ceramides natural or synthetic and their counterparts. 08/06 2010 18:21 FAX 33147567388 The OREAL a0006 / 0007 9. Composition according to any one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one antioxidant. 10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the antioxidant is selected from tocopherol and its esters, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves, extracts tea extract, vine extracts, hesperitin laurate, Paeonia suffructicosa root extract, gingko biloba leaf extract, bioflavonoids, lignans, apple phloretin, extracts of Boswellia serrata rosemary extracts, turmeric derivatives, cabbage and broccoli derivatives, mint extracts, Pelvetia canaliculata extract, vegetable or natural lipophilic antoxidants such as carotenes and carotenoids, antioxidant essential oils, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, idebenone, coenzyme Q10, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, cysteic acid, jasmonic acid and their derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, DHEA and its derivatives, BHT and BHA. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one substance which is both an anti-glycation agent and an antioxidant. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one chelating agent. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the chelating agent is selected from EDTA, DTPA, citric acid, malic acid and phytic acid. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 13, characterized in that it comprises at least one anti-UV filter. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 14, characterized in that it has a pH of between 3 and 6. 16. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 15, characterized in that it comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: between 0.005 and 50% of an anti-glycation agent, between 0.1 and 20 % of depigmenting agent, between 0 and 30% of antioxidant, between 0 and 10% of chelating agent between 0 and 20% of anti-UV filter. 17. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 16, characterized in that the anti-glycation agent is chosen from extracts of Vaccinium myrtillus, extracts of Empetrim nigrum, extracts of cassis, elderberry, cranberries, blackberry extract, black and purple red berry extract, Helianthus annuus seed extract, Myrica rubra extract, Olea europeae leaf extract, Plantago major L. seed extract, extracts mauve flower, Litchi pericarp extract, ellagic acid and its derivatives and carnosine. 18. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 17, characterized in that the depigmenting agent is selected from ellagic acid and its derivatives. 19. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 18, characterized in that it comprises a sunflower seed extract, ellagic acid or one of its 08/06 2010 18:22 FAX 33147567388 L ' OREAL0007 / 0007 23 derivatives, an antioxidant selected from a gingko biloba leaf extract and an extract of Olea europeae leaves and EDTA. 20. A cosmetic process for preventing darkening or yellowing of the skin of a subject, comprising applying to the skin of said subject a composition as defined in any one of claims 7 to 19. 21. A cosmetic process for preventing the darkening or yellowing of the skin of a subject, characterized in that orally administered a composition as defined in any one of claims 7 to 19.