FR2819398A1 - Composition useful in cosmetics, especially foundation sticks, comprises lipophilic liquid and low molecular weight polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising a lipophilic liquid (I) and a polymer (II) is new, where (II) has a weight-average molecular weight below 1000 and comprises: (a) a polar portion having at least two repeat units comprising a heteroatom-containing group capable of forming hydrogen bonds with (I); and (b) at least one lipophilic portion comprising a chain of at least four carbon atoms or at least two silicon atoms. An Independent claim is also included for a cosmetic method for reducing the transfer and/or deposition of traces of a film of a physiologically acceptable composition from keratinic materials to a substrate in contact with the film and/or to increase the durability of the film, comprising introducing a combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymer of type (II) into the composition.

Description

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The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or treating and / or making up the skin, including the scalp, and / or the lips of human beings, containing a liquid fatty phase containing a liquid lipophilic body, in particular structured by a particular polymeric compound. This composition is in particular in the form of a make-up product cast in particular in stick or in a cup and more especially of foundation or lipstick, the application of which results in a non-greasy, light deposit and possibly without transfer.

The foundations currently sold are most often either in the form of a liquid packaged in a bottle, or in the form of a product compacted in a casing (see in particular document US-A-5186318). These foundations require the use of an applicator such as a sponge, which quickly becomes contaminated and must be cleaned very often, especially after each application. Also, users of foundations are increasingly looking for solid foundations in the form of sticks, in order to abstain from the sponge-type applicator. Such a foundation is easy to use, hygienic, allowing its application until the product is completely exhausted, unlike a conventional foundation which is applied with a sponge.

In addition, the surface of the foundation remains smooth while the surface of a product compacted in a housing is deformed under the pressure of successive catches. Finally, a solid foundation makes it possible to obtain a more homogeneous makeup than a fluid foundation.

The classic balms and lipsticks as well as concealers and deodorants are most often in the form of a stick. As a stick product, there are also lip care or sun protection products.

These cosmetic or dermatological products contain a structured liquid fatty phase, namely gelled and / or stiffened using waxes and / or fillers. Unfortunately, the waxes currently used give the composition a fatty and oily feel and / or a feeling of fat and heaviness. In addition, the manufacture of sticks with waxes often presents problems of reproducibility due to the variability of the melting points of the various waxes commercially available.

généralement compatibles entre eux. Par"corps lipophile liquide", on entend un milieu liquide non aqueux, non miscible en toute proportion à de l'eau. By “liquid fatty phase”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant a fatty phase liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), composed of one or more lipophilic bodies liquid at ambient temperature, called also oils,

generally compatible with each other. By "liquid lipophilic body" is meant a non-aqueous liquid medium, immiscible in any proportion with water.

However, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible in particular to limit its exudation from solid compositions in particular in hot and humid regions and, in addition, to limit, after deposition on the skin or the lips, the migration of this phase in the wrinkles and fine lines on the skin, which is particularly sought after for a lipstick, a concealer or an eyeshadow. Indeed, a significant migration of the liquid fatty phase, in particular when it is loaded with coloring matters, leads to an unsightly effect around the lips and eyes, particularly accentuating wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often cited by women as a major defect in lipsticks, concealer products and conventional eye shadows in sticks. By "migration" is meant an overflow of the composition outside the initial route.

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La structuration de la phase grasse liquide et la limitation de son exsudation augmentent avec le taux de cires. De plus, la migration du dépôt sur la peau ou les lèvres diminue lorsque le taux de cires augmente. Ainsi, le taux de ces agents structuraux est un frein au confort et à la légèreté des produits de maquillage en stick.

The structure of the liquid fatty phase and the limitation of its exudation increases with the rate of waxes. In addition, the migration of the deposit on the skin or the lips decreases when the level of waxes increases. Thus, the level of these structural agents is a brake on the comfort and the lightness of the makeup products in stick.

In addition, the majority of makeup or care compositions, when they are applied to the skin, the eyelashes or the lips, have the drawback of transferring, that is to say of depositing at least in part, by leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact, and in particular a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or the skin. It follows a mediocre persistence of the applied film, requiring to regularly renew the application of the composition, in particular foundation or lipstick. However, to date, users want to beautify their face, including the lips, and their body by spending as little time as possible. Furthermore, the appearance of these unacceptable traces, in particular on the blouse collars, may exclude certain women from the use of this type of makeup.

For several years, cosmeticians have been interested in lipstick compositions and more recently in foundation compositions "without transfer". Thus, the Shiseido company considered in its patent application JP-A-61-65809 lipstick compositions "without transfer" containing a siloxysilicate resin (with three-dimensional network), a volatile silicone oil with a cyclic silicone chain and powdery charges. Likewise, the company Noevier described in document JP-A-62- 61911 compositions of lipstick, eyeliner, "non-transfer" foundation comprising one or more volatile silicones associated with one or more waxes. hydrocarbon.

These compositions, although having improved "no transfer" properties, have the drawback of leaving on the lips, after evaporation of the silicone oils, a film which becomes uncomfortable over time (feeling of drying and tightness), spreading a number of women of this type of lipstick.

The Revlon company also envisaged in document US-A-5837223 to associate a fluorinated Guerbet ester with a siloxysilicate resin and volatile solvents such as cyclic silicones. The presence of siloxysilicate resin also leads to uncomfortable (dry) films.

In application EP-A-775483 from the company L'oréal, there are described compositions of liquid lipsticks containing an aqueous continuous medium containing a polymer dispersion capable of forming a continuous glossy film "without transfer" on the lips .

Unfortunately, these compositions lead to a film on the lips, constantly moving, uncomfortable and imparting a feeling of tightness. In addition, it is very difficult to introduce pigments into these compositions without destabilizing them.

In application EP-A-0749746 from the company L'oréal, lipstick compositions are described containing a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized on the surface by a polymeric stabilizer. These compositions have the drawback of being able to contain only a small proportion of polar oils, known to provide shine as well as comfort to the film deposited in conventional compositions. In particular, the presence of a large proportion of polar oils (at least 5%) cause flocculation of the particles and therefore instability over time of the compositions.

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There therefore remains the need for a composition which does not have the above drawbacks, and which in particular has non-migration, improved "transfer-free" properties, good resistance over time, and which does not dry out and does not tighten the skin or the lips on which it is applied, both during application and over time. In addition, this composition is stable over time even in hot and humid countries, easy to manufacture and the introduction of pigments is easy. In addition, this composition gives the deposit a feeling of comfort, lightness and non-greasiness.

The subject of the invention is precisely a composition for caring for and / or making up and / or treating the skin and / or the lips of the face and / or the integuments making it possible to remedy the drawbacks mentioned above.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of particular low molecular weight polymers, associated in particular with one or more lipophilic hydrocarbon-based liquid bodies, made it possible to obtain a composition, in particular a stick, the application of which on the lips. or the skin led to a deposit having remarkable cosmetic properties. In particular, the deposition of this composition on the skin or the lips is flexible, comfortable, non-greasy, light, non-migrating and non-drying. In addition, the composition is stable over time, does not exude at room temperature and does not present any manufacturing difficulty. The texture of this composition is, moreover, creamy and creamy.

In addition, in the presence of volatile solvent, the composition exhibits remarkable "non-transfer" properties.

By stable is meant a composition which does not exude at room temperature for at least 2 months, or even up to 9 months, that is to say a composition in which the liquid fatty phase does not leave the composition (not -appearance of oil droplets on the surface).

The invention applies not only to lip makeup products, such as stick lipsticks, lip products sold in jars or bottles and lip pencils, but also to skin care and / or treatment products. the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, such as the products in particular of sun protection stick for the skin of the face or the lips, the care products for the face or the human body, to the skin makeup products, also good for the face as well as for the human body, such as foundations that may have been poured in sticks or in cups, concealer products, eyeshadows and temporary tattoo products, to personal hygiene products such as deodorants, especially sticks , shampoos and conditioners and eye makeup products such as eyeliners, pencils and mascaras, more particularly in the form of bread, as well as skin care and makeup products such as keratin fibers like hair and eyebrows.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition containing a liquid lipophilic hydrocarbon body and an organic polymeric compound comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, the organic polymeric compound having a weight average molecular weight less than

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1 000, le corps lipophile hydrocarboné et le composé organique formant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable.

1000, the lipophilic hydrocarbon body and the organic compound forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

In particular, the composition of the invention is structured by the organic polymeric compound with a heteroatom. In other words, this polymeric compound, also called polymer, is a gelling agent for the liquid fatty phase of the composition, and in particular for the liquid lipophilic body. This polymeric compound is therefore a lipophilic organic compound.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention does not contain silicone resin with siloxysilicate units or trimethylated silica, in order to preserve the comfort properties of the composition.

The lipophilic hydrocarbon liquid body constitutes all or part of the liquid fatty phase of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid, a more or less viscous cream. It can be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a rigid or flexible anhydrous gel. Preferably, the liquid fatty phase forms the continuous or external phase of the composition. In particular, it is in anhydrous form, in particular poured in a stick or in a cup and more especially in the form of a rigid anhydrous gel, in particular an anhydrous stick.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase contains at least one volatile solvent. This volatile solvent represents in particular the liquid lipophilic hydrocarbon body.

The gelling of the liquid fatty phase and in particular of the lipophilic liquid hydrocarbon body is modular according to the nature of the heteroatom polymer used, and can be such that a rigid structure is obtained in the form of a stick or a stick. These sticks when they are colored allow, after application, to obtain a uniform deposit in color, neither greasy nor dry, does not migrate, does not transfer in particular to a support applied in contact with the film, after evaporation of the volatile solvent. (if present) and of good behavior, in particular color over time. The composition also has a creamy appearance and gives a powdery makeup.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition for the skin or the lips and better still a composition of foundation, concealer product or lipstick, in particular in the form of a stick.

The structuring polymeric compound of the composition of the invention is a non-deformable solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg).

 By "polymeric compound" or "polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 repeating units, namely 2 or more units. Preferably, these patterns are 2 in number.

By "carbon repeating units" with a heteroatom, is meant within the meaning of the invention a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carrying hydrogen atoms, which may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These units each each comprise, in addition, at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions or bonds, namely one or more groups capable of forming these interactions, and better still at least two groups,

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aptes à former ces interactions. Chaque groupement comprend au moins un (à savoir un à plusieurs) hétéroatome. Ces hétéroatomes sont choisis parmi les atomes d'oxygène, d'azote, de soufre, de phosphore et leurs associations. En particulier ces hétéroatomes sont choisis parmi l'azote, le soufre et leurs associations, et mieux l'azote, associés éventuellement à un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène.

able to form these interactions. Each group comprises at least one (namely one to several) heteroatom. These heteroatoms are chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms and their associations. In particular, these heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur and their associations, and better still nitrogen, possibly associated with one or more oxygen atoms.

As a group capable of forming hydrogen interactions of the polar part of the organic polymeric compound, which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the amide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, hydroxyl group, their associations. Advantageously, one or more of the heteroatoms of the groups capable of forming hydrogen interactions are non-pendant and form an integral part of the polymer backbone of the polymeric compound. Preferably, these non-pendant heteroatoms are nitrogen atoms.

In particular, the carbon repeating units with a heteroatom are amide units forming a skeleton of the polyamide type, thiocarbamate, carbamate, thiourea and / or urea units forming a polyurethane, polyurea, poly thiourea, poly thiourethane and / or polyurea-urethane skeleton. . Preferably, these units are amide units. In particular, these amide units are 2 in number.

Between the carbon repeating units or at the end of the polymer backbone, or both, the polymer can comprise silicone units or oxyalkylene units.

The polymeric compound comprises at least one lipophilic part, namely one or more lipophilic parts. Advantageously, the lipophilic part or parts can be pendant or at the end of the polymer backbone. In the case of a pendant lipophilic part, this is linked directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymer backbone.

In addition, the carbon or silicone chain (s) of these lipophilic parts can comprise functionalized parts. The term “functionalized parts” chain within the meaning of the invention means a carbon or silicone chain comprising at least one (one or more) functional or reactive group, in particular chosen from amide, hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups , halogen, including fluorinated or perfluorinated or perfluoroalkoxylated groups, ester. In addition, part of the carbon chains can be substituted by a siloxane or polysiloxane group.

In addition, the polymeric compound of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 40 to 98% of carbon or silicone chains relative to the total number of heteroatom units and respectively carbon or silicone chains and better still from 50 to 95%. The nature and proportion of the heteroatom units depends on the nature of the liquid fatty phase and is in particular similar to the nature of the fatty phase. Thus, the more polar and in high proportion the carbon repeating units with a heteroatom, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the more the polymer has affinity with polar oils. On the other hand, the more the carbon units with a heteroatom are not very polar or even apolar, or in low proportion, the more the polymer has affinity with apolar oils.

Advantageously, the polymeric organic compound according to the invention comprises at least two lipophilic parts, preferably situated on either side of the polar part and in particular of the polyamide skeleton. 1 may however comprise a lipophilic part at the end of the polymeric skeleton and a hanging lipophilic part. He can too

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comprendre une partie lipophile à chaque extrémité de la partie polaire et une ou plusieurs parties lipophiles pendantes.

comprising a lipophilic part at each end of the polar part and one or more pendant lipophilic parts.

The lipophilic part or parts of the organic polymeric compound according to the invention each advantageously comprise a carbon chain, in particular alkyl or alkoxy, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 40 atoms of carbon.

The subject of the invention is also a structured composition containing at least one liquid lipophilic hydrocarbon body structured by at least one polyamide of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having at least two amide repeating units, and b) at least one pendant carbon chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal carbon chain having at least four carbon atoms, these chains being linked to these amide units, this lipophilic body and this polyamide forming a physiologically acceptable medium. Advantageously, this polyamide comprises two carbon chains located on either side of the amide units. These carbon chains are as described above.

Lipophilic organic polymeric compounds The polymeric compounds of the composition of the invention advantageously have a softening temperature above 65 ° C. and which can range up to 190 ° C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature ranging from 70 to 130OC. These polymers are in particular non-waxy and / or non-crystalline polymers.

Advantageously, the compounds according to the invention comprise a weight-average molecular mass greater than 200, and better still greater than 250, or even greater than 290.

a) au moins deux hétéroatomes dans le squelette polymérique, de préférence deux azotes qui sont de préférence sous forme de liaisons : Il . am ! de, soit-C-N (R)-avec R = H ou alkyle en Ci à C, et mieux de Ci à C40 ; O O Il Il . uréthane, soit-0-C-NH-ou thiocarbamate, soit-S-C-NHO O O 0 00 . urée, soit-NH-C-NH-ou biuret-NH-C-N (R)-C-NH-ou thiourée, avec R un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié ayant de 1 à 50 atomes de carbone et mieux de 2 à 40 atomes de carbone, et

b) au moins une chaîne lipophile terminale et/ou une chaîne lipophile latérale liée (s) à l'un de ces motifs a) et qui peut être : As lipophilic organic polymeric compound of weight average molecular mass (PM) <1000 usable in the invention, mention may be made of polymers comprising a polar part comprising:

a) at least two heteroatoms in the polymer backbone, preferably two nitrogen which are preferably in the form of bonds: II. am! of, either-CN (R) -with R = H or C1 to C alkyl, and better still from C1 to C40; OO He He. urethane, either-0-C-NH- or thiocarbamate, or-SC-NHO OO 0 00. urea, either-NH-C-NH- or biuret-NH-CN (R) -C-NH- or thiourea, with R a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 atoms carbon, and

b) at least one terminal lipophilic chain and / or a lateral lipophilic chain linked to one of these units a) and which can be:

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. une chaîne carbonée, notamment hydrocarbonée, ayant de 8 à 60 atomes de carbone, éventuellement fonctionnalisée, et mieux de 12 à 40 atomes de carbone, cette chaîne étant en particulier une chaîne alkyle ou alcoxy, . une chaîne siliconée du type polyorganosiloxane, comportant éventuellement des radicaux alkyle ou alkoxy en Ci à Cgo et mieux en C6 à C24 ou des radicaux phényle, . la chaîne hydrocarbonée ou la chaîne siliconée pouvant être fluorée ou perfluorée, à savoir tout ou partie des atomes d'hydrogène pouvant être substitué par un atome de fluor . ou un mélange de ces chaînes lipophiles.

. a carbon chain, in particular a hydrocarbon chain, having 8 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally functionalized, and better still 12 to 40 carbon atoms, this chain being in particular an alkyl or alkoxy chain,. a silicone chain of the polyorganosiloxane type, optionally comprising C 1 -C 6 and better C 6 -C 24 alkyl or alkoxy radicals or phenyl radicals,. the hydrocarbon chain or the silicone chain possibly being fluorinated or perfluorinated, namely all or part of the hydrogen atoms which can be substituted by a fluorine atom. or a mixture of these lipophilic chains.

 The carbon chain and the alkyl or alkoxy radicals can be linear, branched, saturated or not and can be cyclic or not.

Organic compounds with an amide group These polymeric organic compounds with amide groups have at least two amide groups in the backbone.

rPr ! . (i) une diamine de toute nature de formule H2N-R.,-NH2 ou HN-NH 1~1 (si diamine cyclique) avec Ri un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié ou cyclique ayant de 1 à 50 atomes de carbone et mieux de 2 à 40 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'éthylène diamine, la propylène diamine, le 1,6-diamino hexane, le cyclohexane diamine, l'isophorone diamine, la 2 méthyl-1, 5 pentane diamine, le 1,12-diamino dodécane, la phénylène diamine (y compris les isomères 1,2 ou 1,3 ou 1,4), comme par exemple l'adamantan diamine, . (ii) au moins un (un ou plusieurs) monoacide carboxylique de formule R2-COOH avec l'un au moins des monoacides possédant un groupe R2 alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié ou cyclique, saturé ou non d'au moins 8 atomes de carbone notamment de 8 à 60 atomes de carbone (par exemple de C12 à C40), comme par exemple l'acide décanoïque, dodécanoïque (laurique), hexadécanoïque (palmitique). L'un au moins de ces monoacides possède, de préférence, en outre, au moins un groupe hydroxyle comme par exemple l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique. 1) If they only contain two amide groups in the polymer backbone (which corresponds to the compound of the examples), they result from the amidation reaction between:

rPr! . (i) a diamine of any kind of formula H2N-R., - NH2 or HN-NH 1 ~ 1 (if cyclic diamine) with R 1 a linear or branched or cyclic alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, such as ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1,6-diamino hexane, cyclohexane diamine, isophorone diamine, 2 methyl-1,5 pentane diamine, 1,12 -diamino dodecane, phenylene diamine (including the 1,2 or 1,3 or 1,4 isomers), such as for example adamantan diamine,. (ii) at least one (one or more) mono-carboxylic acid of formula R2-COOH with at least one of mono-acids having an alkyl group R2, linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or not with at least 8 carbon atoms in particular from 8 to 60 carbon atoms (for example from C12 to C40), such as for example decanoic, dodecanoic (lauric), hexadecanoic (palmitic) acid. At least one of these monoacids preferably also has at least one hydroxyl group, for example 12-hydroxystearic acid.

résultant est obtenu comme suit :

H2N-R1-NHz + 2 RUZ-COOL R-C-NH-R1-NH-C-R2 O Il 0 0

. Si la réaction comporte deux monoacides différents du type respectivement : R2 - COOH et R3-COOH, (avec R3 différent de R2, représentant un groupe alkyle en Ca à C60 tel que défini pour Roi),) le produit résultant est un mélange de : . If the reaction contains only one mono-acid of the R2-COOH type, the diamide

resulting is obtained as follows:

H2N-R1-NHz + 2 RUZ-COOL RC-NH-R1-NH-C-R2 O Il 0 0

. If the reaction contains two different monoacids of the type respectively: R2 - COOH and R3-COOH, (with R3 different from R2, representing a C 1 to C 60 alkyl group as defined for King),) the resulting product is a mixture of:

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Dans une variante d'obtention du composé polymérique, ce dernier peut résulter de la trans amidification entre : . une diamine telle que précisée ci-dessus (point i) et, . un monoacide du type huile ou ester gras comportant au moins un groupe ester d'acide carboxylique ayant un groupe alkyle R2 en Ca à Ceo par exemple en C12 à C40, linéaire, ramifié, cyclique, saturé ou non. A titre d'exemple on peut citer les esters de monoacides aliphatiques mono hydroxylés insaturés tels que les esters de l'acide ricinoléique (ou acide 12-hydroxy (cis) 9-octadécénoïque) comme le ricinoléate de butyle, le ricinoléate d'octyl dodécyle, le ricinoléate de cétyle, le tri ricinoléate de glycéryle (huile de ricin) ; les esters de monoacides aliphatiques mono hydroxylés linéaires saturés tels que : les

esters de l'acide lactique comme le lactate d'isostéaryle, le lactate issu d'alcool en C12C13, le lactate d'octyl dodécyle, le lactate d'oléyle, le lactate de myristyl, le palmitat d'éthyl 2 hexyle ; les esters de l'acide 12-hydroxy octadécanoïque (ou 12-hydroxy stéarique) comme le 12-hydroxy stéarate d'éthyl 2-hexyle, le 12-hydroxy stéarate d'octyl docécyle, le 12-hydroxy stéarate d'isostéaryle, le 12-hydroxy stéarate d'isodécyle, le tri 12-hydroxy stéarate de glycéryle (ou huile de ricin hydrogénée), l'hexa 12-hydroxy stéarate de dipentaérythrityle ; et leurs mélanges.

In a variant for obtaining the polymeric compound, the latter can result from trans amidification between:. a diamine as specified above (point i) and,. a monoacid of the oil or fatty ester type comprising at least one ester group of carboxylic acid having an alkyl group R2 in Ca to Ceo for example in C12 to C40, linear, branched, cyclic, saturated or not. By way of example, there may be mentioned the esters of unsaturated mono-hydroxylated aliphatic monoacids such as the esters of ricinoleic acid (or 12-hydroxy (cis) 9-octadecenoic acid) such as butyl ricinoleate, octyl dodecyl ricinoleate , cetyl ricinoleate, tri glyceryl ricinoleate (castor oil); esters of saturated linear mono hydroxylated aliphatic monoacids such as:

esters of lactic acid such as isostearyl lactate, lactate derived from C12C13 alcohol, octyl dodecyl lactate, oleyl lactate, myristyl lactate, ethyl 2 hexyl palmitate; esters of 12-hydroxy octadecanoic acid (or 12-hydroxy stearic) such as 12-hydroxy ethyl 2-hexyl stearate, 12-hydroxy octyl docecyl stearate, 12-hydroxy isostearyl stearate, Isodecyl 12-hydroxy stearate, glyceryl tri 12-hydroxy stearate (or hydrogenated castor oil), dipentaerythrityl hexa 12-hydroxy stearate; and their mixtures.

Preferably, hydrogenated monohydroxylated esters are used, and in particular triglycerides in general, preferably hydrogenated, such as hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated 14-eicosenoic acid (lesirolic acid).

In the case of the reaction between a triglyceride and a diamine of the type + H2N-R, -NH2, the following compounds can be obtained:

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+ produits d'hydrolyse partielle complétant ceux indiqué précédemment

0 II +HN-Ri-NH-C-Rz

2) Si les composés polymériques à groupes amide comportent plusieurs groupes amide dans le squelette polymérique, ils peuvent résulter de l'amidification entre : . une diamine de formule H2N-Ri-NH2 telle que définie précédemment, . un diacide HOOC - R4 - COOH (ou un mélange de diacides) avec R4 représentant (CH2) n ou n vaut de 8 à 60 (notamment 12 à 40) ou un groupement aryle ou encore alkyle aryle ayant de 6 à 40 atomes de carbone. A titre d'exemple on peut citer les acides linéaires tels que l'acide adipique ou sébacique ou les acides aromatiques tels que l'acide phtalique, l'acide téréphtalique, les dimères d'acides gras,

. au moins un monacide R2 - COOH tel que défini précédemment (point 1 (ii).

+ partial hydrolysis products supplementing those indicated above

0 II + HN-Ri-NH-C-Rz

2) If the polymeric compounds with amide groups have several amide groups in the polymer backbone, they can result from amidification between:. a diamine of formula H2N-Ri-NH2 as defined above,. a HOOC - R4 - COOH diacid (or a mixture of diacids) with R4 representing (CH2) n or n is from 8 to 60 (especially 12 to 40) or an aryl or alkyl aryl group having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms . By way of example, mention may be made of linear acids such as adipic or sebacic acid or aromatic acids such as phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, fatty acid dimers,

. at least one R2-COOH monacid as defined above (point 1 (ii).

The final product then has the structure: R2CONHR1NH [CO-R4-CO-NH-Ri-NH], - CO-R2 with x being 0 to 4; when x = 0, this means that there is no reaction with a diacid of the HOOC-R4-COOH type.

avec a allant de 1 à 18 et y allant de 1 à 10. Dans ce cas les groupes Spi-0 se retrouvent alors dans le squelette polymérique ; comme exemple de composé répondant à la formule A on peut citer le produit Tégomer A-Si 2122 vendu par la société Goldschmidt ; . ou un polydiméthylsiloxane (PDMS) ne possédant qu'une seule extrémité fonctionnelle dans le mélange réactionnel, cette extrémité pouvant être un groupe acide carboxylique, amine ou époxy. Comme exemple de PDMS à groupement amine utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer les produits KF-864 et KF-865 de Shin Etsu. Comme exemple de PDMS à groupement époxy utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer les produits KF- 100T et KF-101 de Shin Etsu et comme exemple de PDMS à groupement acide carboxylique utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer les produits X-22-3701 de Shin Etsu, avec un ou plusieurs acides carboxyliques définis ci-dessus. 3) Organic compounds with an amide group comprising silicone parts The silicone derivatives can be obtained either by reacting:. a diamine comprising silicone groups, for example of the type (A):

with a ranging from 1 to 18 and y ranging from 1 to 10. In this case the Spi-0 groups are then found in the polymer backbone; as an example of a compound corresponding to formula A, mention may be made of the product Tégomer A-Si 2122 sold by the company Goldschmidt; . or a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) having only one functional end in the reaction mixture, this end possibly being a carboxylic acid, amine or epoxy group. As an example of PDMS containing an amine group which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the products KF-864 and KF-865 from Shin Etsu. As an example of PDMS with an epoxy group which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the products KF-100T and KF-101 from Shin Etsu and as an example of PDMS with a carboxylic acid group which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the products X- 22-3701 by Shin Etsu, with one or more carboxylic acids defined above.

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II) Compounds with a urethane, thiourethane, thiourea or urea group The polymeric compounds with urethane, thiouretane, thiourea or urea groups result from the reaction:. a diisocyanate (instead of the diamine) of formula OCN-R'i-NCO (with for R'1 the same definition as for R1). with a more generally hydrogen-donating compound, preferably of the alcohol, amine or thiol type.

obtenu comme suit :

2R'2-OH + OCN-R'i-NCO R'z-0-C-NH-R'i-NH-C-0-R'z Il Il 0 0

) c ! R'2-OH est un alcool gras en C8 à C60 linéaire ou ramifié notamment en C12 à C40, pouvant comporter des insaturations ou des cycles ou mélange d'alcools gras dont au moins l'un d'eux possède de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone comme par exemple le décanol, docécanol. 1) Compounds with urethane groups: a) With only two urethane groups in the chain, the polymeric compound is

obtained as follows:

2R'2-OH + OCN-R'i-NCO R'z-0-C-NH-R'i-NH-C-0-R'z Il Il 0 0

) vs ! R'2-OH is a linear or branched C8 to C60 fatty alcohol, in particular C12 to C40, which may contain unsaturations or rings or a mixture of fatty alcohols, at least one of which has 8 to 30 atoms carbon such as decanol, docecanol.

. au moins un monoalcool, de préférence lipophile du type R'2-OH avec R'2 = alkylène en C8 à Cgo.

The diisocyanate can be aliphatic (example: hexamethylene di isocyanate) or cylcloaliphatic (example: isophorone diisocyanate) or aromatic (example: toluene diisocyanate, diphenyl methane diisocyanate. The diisocyanate can contain from 3 to 60 carbon atoms. B) With more than two urethane groups in the chain:
The polymeric compound results from the reaction for example between:. a diisocyanate of formula OCN-R'i-NCO with R'1 linear or branched from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms,. a diol or mixture of diols of formula HO-R'3-OH, with R'3 having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. As an example of a diol, mention may be made of 1,4 butane diol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, (the diol possibly being lipophilic or not),

. at least one monoalcohol, preferably lipophilic of the R'2-OH type with R'2 = C8 to Cgo alkylene.

avec z allant de 0 à 4. Pour z= 0 il n'y a pas de diol du type HO-R'g-OH. The compound then has the following structure: R'2-0-C-NH-R ', - NH [C-0-R'3-0-C-NH-R', - NH], - C-0- R'2 he he he he OOOO

with z going from 0 to 4. For z = 0 there is no diol of the HO-R'g-OH type.

Instead of the monoalcohol or the diol indicated in a) and b), an oil bearing one or more OH groups may be used. By way of example, there may be mentioned as oil with a single OH the esters of citric acid, lactic acid or 14-eicosenoic acid (lesirolic acid) and as oil with three OH, castor oil or acid ricinoleic.

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a) 2 R5-NH2+ OCN-R'i-NCO- R5-NH-C-NH-R'i-NH-C-NH-R5 Il il O O

RgNH2 est une amine en C6 à C40, linéaire, ramifiée ou cyclique, sature ou non, et mieux en en C12 à C30

b) R5NH2 + HN-Rg-NHi + OCN-R'i-NCOR5-NH-C-NH-R',-NH- [C-NH-Ri-NH-C-NH-R'i-NH],-C-NH-Rg Il Il Il Il 0000 O O O O

Avec t allant de 0 à 4 ; lorsque t = 0, la réaction est effectuée en l'absence de diamine. c) Pour un composé polymérique à groupe urée ou uréthane, on peut aussi avoir dans ce cas des motifs siloxane. Dans ce cas, on fait réagir le diisocyanate avec un : . polysiloxane ayant une seule extrémité alcool (ou silanol) ou une seule extrémité amine. Comme exemple de polysiloxane avec un seul groupe NH2, on peut citer les produits KF- 864, KF-865, KF-868, KF-8003 de Shin-Etsu. Comme exemple de polysiloxane avec une seule extrémité alcool, on peut citer les produits X-22-4015 de Shin-Etsu. 2) Compound with urea group Obtaining a polymeric compound from urea is identical to that of urethanes, but this time the diisocyanate is reacted with a mono amine or a diamine to give:

a) 2 R5-NH2 + OCN-R'i-NCO- R5-NH-C-NH-R'i-NH-C-NH-R5 Il il OO

RgNH2 is an amine in C6 to C40, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or not, and better in C12 to C30

b) R5NH2 + HN-Rg-NHi + OCN-R'i-NCOR5-NH-C-NH-R ', - NH- [C-NH-Ri-NH-C-NH-R'i-NH], -C-NH-Rg Il Il Il Il 0000 OOOO

With t ranging from 0 to 4; when t = 0, the reaction is carried out in the absence of diamine. c) For a polymeric compound with a urea or urethane group, it is also possible in this case to have siloxane units. In this case, the diisocyanate is reacted with a:. polysiloxane having a single alcohol (or silanol) end or a single amine end. As an example of a polysiloxane with a single NH 2 group, mention may be made of the products KF-864, KF-865, KF-868, KF-8003 from Shin-Etsu. As an example of a polysiloxane with a single alcohol end, mention may be made of the products X-22-4015 from Shin-Etsu.

. or difunctional polysiloxane, for example of type (B):

avec a=1à18etn=de1à10. Lorsque les motifs de répétition sont des motifs urée, les parties lipophiles en bout du squelette polymérique ne sont pas liées par un groupe uréthane.

with a = 1 to 18 and n = from 1 to 10. When the repeating units are urea units, the lipophilic parts at the end of the polymer backbone are not linked by a urethane group.

As an example of product (B), mention may be made of the product Tégomer A-Si 2122 and as an example of product (C) the product Tégomer H-Si 2311, sold by Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the polymeric compound is a polyamide resulting from the amidation of a triglyceride with a diamine optionally in the presence of a C12 to C40 mono carboxylic acid. This compound is in particular that described in document EP-A-0 984 025. The triglyceride is in particular a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride having from 12 to

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30 atomes de carbone comme l'acide ricinoléïque (ou huile de ricin) et l'acide monocarboxylique est notamment l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique. La diamine est en particulier l'éthylène diamine. Un tel produit est notamment commercialisé sous le nom de Crayvallac SF ou Crayvallac MTpar la société Cray Valley Limited.

30 carbon atoms such as ricinoleic acid (or castor oil) and monocarboxylic acid is in particular 12-hydroxystearic acid. The diamine is in particular ethylene diamine. Such a product is notably marketed under the name of Crayvallac SF or Crayvallac MT by the company Cray Valley Limited.

Amphiphilic compound Advantageously, the polymeric compound is associated with at least one amphiphilic compound which is liquid and non-volatile at room temperature, with a hydrophilic / lipophilic balance value (HLB) of less than 12 and in particular ranging from 1 to 8 and preferably from 1 to 5 According to the invention, one or more amphiphilic compounds can be used. The purpose of these amphiphilic compounds is to reinforce the structuring properties of the heteroatom polymer, to facilitate the processing of the polymer and to improve the ability to deposit the stick.

The hardness can be measured by the so-called butter cutting wire method, which consists of cutting an 8.1 mm lipstick stick and measuring the hardness at 20oC, using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company. Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) necessary to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method, the hardness of a stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 g, in particular from 30 to 250 g and for example from 50 to 200 g.

The hardness of the composition according to the invention is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention resists impact well.

According to the invention, the composition in the form of stick has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid, giving the application a remarkable elastic softness. The stick compositions of the prior art do not have this property of elasticity and flexibility.

The amphiphilic compound or compounds which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise a lipophilic part linked to a polar part, the lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms in particular, from 18 to 40 carbon atoms and better still from 18 to 32 carbon atoms. Preferably, the polar part of this or these amphiphilic compounds is the remainder of a compound chosen from alcohols and polyols having from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups, polyoxyalkylenes comprising at least 2 oxyalkylenated units and having from 0 to 20 oxypropylenated units and / or from 0 to 20 oxyethylenated units. In particular, the amphiphilic compound is an ester chosen from hydroxy stearates, oleates, iso-stearates of glycerol, sorbitan or methylglucose or alternatively fatty alcohols branched from C12 to C26 such as octyldodecanol and their mixtures. Among these esters, monoesters and mixtures of mono and di-esters are preferred.

The level of amphiphilic compound and that of the heteroatom polymeric compound are chosen according to the gel hardness desired and according to the particular application envisaged. The respective amounts of polymer and of amphiphilic compound must be such that they allow obtaining a disintegrating stick. In practice, the amount of polymeric compound represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 40%. The amount of amphiphilic compound represents in practice from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 1% to 15%, if it is present.

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Liquid fatty phase Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase of the composition contains more than 30% of lipophilic body (ies), liquids or hydrocarbon oil (s) and better still from 40 to 100%.

For a polymeric compound comprising a partially silicone skeleton, this fatty phase preferably contains more than 30% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and better still from 40 to 80%, of oil or mixture of liquid silicone oils, relative the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

Liquid lipophilic bodies or hydrocarbon oils within the meaning of the invention are polar oils capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the polymeric compound. They mainly contain carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly hydroxyl, ether, ester, carboxylic acid groups.

carbone et Ru représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée notamment ramifiée contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone à condition que Rs + Rgsoit > 10, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin (octanoate de cétostéaryle), l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le benzoate d'alcool en C12 à Cis, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl 2-hexyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéarate, des octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools ; les esters hydroxylés comme le lactate d'isostéaryle, le malate de di-isostéaryle ; et les esters du pentaérythritol ; - les éthers de synthèse ayant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone ; - les alcools gras en Ca à C26 comme l'alcool oléique ; - leurs mélanges. In particular, the hydrocarbon-based liquid lipophilic oils or bodies of the invention are: - hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which can have various C4 chain lengths at C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soy, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape or blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passion flower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula RsCOORg in which Rs represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 atoms of

carbon and Ru represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Rs + Rg is> 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoate d C12 to Cis alcohol, isopropyl myristate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - fatty alcohols in Ca to C26 such as oleic alcohol; - their mixtures.

siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényl triméthicones, les phényl diméthicones, les phényl triméthylsiloxy diphénylsiloxanes, des diphényl diméthicones, les diphényl méthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyl triméthylsiloxysilicates ; les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés d'origine synthétique ou minérale comme les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non volatiles, et ses dérivés, la vaseline, la lanoline liquide, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que le Parléam, le squalane ; et leurs mélanges. De préférence, les huiles Apolar oils can be combined with these polar oils in small quantities (from 0 to 20% and especially from 0 to 10% by weight) of the apolar oils according to the invention are in particular silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the chain end

silicone, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or non-volatile, and its derivatives, petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; and their mixtures. Preferably, the oils

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structurées, et plus spécialement celles structurées par les polyamides et en particulier ceux de formules (1) ou les polyuréthanes ou les polyurées ou les polyurées-uréthanes, sont des huiles apolares et plus spécialement une huile ou un mélange d'huiles du type hydrocarboné d'origine minérale ou synthétique, choisies en particulier parmi les hydrocarbures notamment les alcanes comme l'huile de parléam, les isoparaffines comme l'isododécane et le squalane et leurs mélanges. Avantageusement, ces huiles sont associées à une ou plusieurs huiles de silicones phénylées.

structured, and more particularly those structured by polyamides and in particular those of formulas (1) or polyurethanes or polyureas or polyureas-urethanes, are nonpolar oils and more especially an oil or a mixture of oils of the hydrocarbon type d mineral or synthetic origin, chosen in particular from hydrocarbons, in particular alkanes such as parlameam oil, isoparaffins such as isododecane and squalane and their mixtures. Advantageously, these oils are combined with one or more phenylated silicone oils.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase contains at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone oils and their mixtures.

The total liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%.

The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention also contains at least one volatile solvent, namely one or more volatile solvents.

By "volatile solvent" is meant within the meaning of the invention any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent (s) of the invention are organic solvents and in particular volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10-3 to 300mm Hg and preferably greater than 0.3mm Hg.

According to the invention, these volatile solvents facilitate, in particular, the application of the composition to the skin, the lips or the integuments. These solvents can be hydrocarbon solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising pendant or alkoxy alkyl groups or at the end of the silicone chain or a mixture of these solvents. Preferably, these solvents are not monoalcohols with at least 7 carbon atoms.

cyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthyl cyclopentasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl cyclohexasiloxane, l'heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, l'heptaméthyloctyl trisiloxane, l'hexamethyl disiloxane, l'octaméthyl trisiloxane, le décaméthyl tétrasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl pentasiloxane et leurs mélanges. As volatile solvent which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl

cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane and their dodecam mixes.

As another volatile solvent which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched alkanes of Ca-C16 such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in Ca- C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of "Isopars" or Permyls, the branched esters of Ca-C16 such as isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures . These solvents can optionally be mixed with volatile silicone oils. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

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It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents.

Preferably, isododecane is used (Peutyls 99 A), the Ca-C16 isoparaffins (Isopars L, E, H), their mixtures, optionally combined with cyclopentasiloxane or decamethyl tetrasiloxane.

These volatile oils represent in particular a mass rate of 5 to 97.5% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 75% and better still from 15 to 45%. Generally, the amount of volatile solvent is used in an amount sufficient to obtain non-transfer properties. This quantity will be adapted by a person skilled in the art according to the intensity of the desired transfer-free properties.

Additives The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, chosen in particular from coloring matters, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, products pasty at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, anti-free radicals, dispersants such as poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid, and mixtures thereof. These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0 to 20% (in particular from 0.01 to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.01 to 10%. Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

The composition of the invention may also contain, as an additive, an aqueous phase containing water optionally thickened or gelled with a thickener or a gelling agent of aqueous phase and optionally compounds miscible with water.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological tinted composition or for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, in the form of a composition for sun protection or for personal hygiene. in particular in the form of a deodorant or make-up removing product in the form of a stick. It can in particular be used as a care base for the skin, the integuments or the lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and / or from the sun and / or wind, care cream for the skin, the nails or the hair).

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blush, a blush or eyelids, concealer, eyeliner, body makeup; make-up of the lips such as a lipstick, possibly having care or treatment properties; makeup makeup appendages such as nails, eyelashes in particular in the form of a bread mascara, eyebrows and hair in particular in the form of pencil.

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Bien entendu la composition de l'invention doit être cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable, à savoir contenir un milieu physiologiquement acceptable non toxique et susceptible d'être appliquée sur la peau, les phanères ou les lèvres d'êtres humains. Par cosmétiquement acceptable, on entend au sens de l'invention une composition d'aspect, d'odeur, de goût et de toucher agréables.

Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant within the meaning of the invention a composition of pleasant appearance, odor, taste and feel.

Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic active and / or one dermatological active and / or at least one coloring matter. Thanks to the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, as defined above, a trapping of the active agents and the coloring materials present in the composition is obtained, allowing to maintain them where they were applied, namely the lips, the skin or the integuments such as keratin fibers, after evaporation of the volatile solvent (s), and to limit their transfer or redeposition on a support different from that on which they have been applied.

The coloring matter according to the invention can be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring material is generally present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30%, if it is present.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments can represent from 0.1 to 50% and better still from 2 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, if they are present.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15%, if they are present.

The composition can, in addition, contain at least one filler (one or more) in order to obtain a matte product, which is particularly sought for foundations and in particular, for foundations or day cream for people with oily skin. By "filler" is meant any solid particle at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, used alone or in combination which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which are insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature higher than room temperature and in particular their softening temperature or their melting temperature. These inert fillers have melting temperatures at

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moins supérieure à 170 C et mieux supérieure à 200 C. Elles peuvent être absorbantes ou non, c'est-à-dire capables en particulier d'absorber les huiles de la composition ainsi que les substances biologiques sécrétées par la peau. De préférence, ces charges ont un diamètre apparent allant de 0,01 à 150 pm de préférence de 0,5 à 120 pm et mieux de 1 à 80 um. Un diamètre apparent correspond au diamètre du cercle dans lequel s'inscrit la particule élémentaire selon sa plus petite dimension (épaisseur pour des lamelles).

less higher than 170 C and better higher than 200 C. They can be absorbent or not, that is to say capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition as well as the biological substances secreted by the skin. Preferably, these fillers have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 μm, preferably from 0.5 to 120 μm and better still from 1 to 80 μm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle in which the elementary particle is inscribed according to its smallest dimension (thickness for lamellae).

(Polytrap@ de Dow Corning), les poudres de poiytétraf) uoroéthy ! ène (Téfion@), ia lauroyl-lysine, le nitrure de bore, l'amidon, les microsphères creuses polymériques telles que celles de chlorure de polyvinylidène/acrylonitrile comme l'Expancel@ (Nobel Industrie), les micro sphères creuses polymériques (Tospeari@ de Toshiba, par exemple), le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydro-carbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses (Silica Beads@ de Maprecos), les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les particules de polyester et leurs mélanges. Ces charges peuvent être traitées en surface notamment pour les rendre lipophiles. The fillers which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon @ (Orgasol @ from Atochem), powders of poly-ss-alanine, of polyethylene, of acrylic polymer and in particular of poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA) like that sold by Wackherr under the reference Covabead LH-85 (particle size 10-12um) or acrylic acid copolymers

(Polytrap @ from Dow Corning), poiytétraf powders) uoroéthy! ene (Tefion @), ia lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel @ (Nobel Industry), polymeric hollow microspheres (Tospeari @ from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads @ from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, polyester particles and their mixtures. These fillers can be treated on the surface, in particular to make them lipophilic.

The composition may optionally contain one or more waxes to improve the structuring in the form of a stick, although this rigid form can be obtained in the absence of wax. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 45 ° C. and better still above 55 ° C. up to 200 C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed. It is this recrystallization from the mixture which is responsible for the reduction in the gloss of said mixture. Also, advantageously the composition contains little or no wax, and in particular less than 5% of wax.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured by the "Dynamic Scanning Colorimetry" method with a rise in temperature of 5 or 1 0 CC / min.

Waxes, in the sense of demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they are in particular of natural origin such as beeswax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese wax, cork or sugar cane fibers, paraffin, lignite, microcrystalline waxes , lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of synthetic origin such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization of ethylene, the waxes obtained by synthesis from FischerTropsch, fatty acid esters and concrete glycerides at 400C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or esters of solid poly (di) methylsiloxane at 40 C.

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préférence, on utilise des cires d'origine synthétique pour des raisons de reproductibilité supérieure à celle des cires d'origine naturelle.

preferably, waxes of synthetic origin are used for reasons of reproducibility greater than that of waxes of natural origin.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention also contains at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer in the medium having in particular an average molecular weight of 500 to 1,000,000 and better still from 5,000 to 15,000. This or these liposoluble polymers contribute in particular to increase the viscosity and / or improve the behavior of the film. These liposoluble polymers advantageously have a softening temperature at most equal to 30 C.

By way of example of liposoluble polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, poly (meth) acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated at Ci to Ca as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone polymers compatible with the fatty phase as well as vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and their mixtures.

Preferably, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are used, C2 to C30 and better C3 to C22 alkene copolymers, and their combinations. As an example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

Preferably, not only for the holding properties but also for the feel and consistency of the film, the PVP / hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of 7000 to 7500 is used or PVP / eicosene having a mean molecular weight of 8000 at 9000.

The liposoluble or dispersible polymers of the composition of the invention are advantageously used in an amount of 0.01% to 20% (in active material) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 1% to 10%, if they are present.

The composition according to the invention also advantageously contains at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By “pasty fatty substance” within the meaning of the invention, is meant fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C., preferably 25 to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. S (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa. S, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile allowing to measure the viscosity, among the MS-r3 and MS-r4 mobiles, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

According to the invention, one or more pasty fatty substances are used. Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated compounds; it can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the pasty hydrocarbon compounds are preferably used in the majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. S, of

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préférence 19 à 20, 5 Pa. s, et/ou un point de fusion de 30 à 45 C et leurs mélanges. On peut également utiliser des esters d'acides ou d'alcools gras, notamment ceux ayant 20 à 65 atomes de carbone (point de fusion de l'ordre de 20 à 35 C et/ou viscosité à 40 oC allant de 0,1 à 40 Pa. s) comme le citrate de tri-isostéaryle ou de cétyle ; le propionate

d'arachidyle ; le polylaurate de vinyle ; les esters du cholestérol comme les triglycérides d'origine végétale tels que les huiles végétales hydrogénées, les polyesters visqueux comme l'acide poly (12-hydroxystéarique) et leurs mélanges. Comme triglycérides d'origine végétale, on peut utiliser les dérivés d'huile de ricin hydrogénée, tels que le "THIXINR"de Rheox.

preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa. s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 45 C and their mixtures. It is also possible to use fatty acid or alcohol esters, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35 C and / or viscosity at 40 oC ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. S) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; propionate

arachidyl; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures. As triglycerides of vegetable origin, it is possible to use derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "THIXINR" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55OC, such as stearyl dimethicones in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 1-45% by weight and even more preferably in an amount of 2- 30% by weight, in the composition, if they are present.

The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. It can be manufactured by the process which consists in heating the polymer at least to its softening temperature, in adding the amphiphilic compound (s), the coloring matters and the additives thereto then mixing the whole until obtaining a clear, transparent solution. Then added to the mixture obtained, after lowering the temperature or volatile solvents. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles (case or cup in particular).

The subject of the invention is also a foundation or lipstick stick composition containing at least one continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one non-waxy polymer giving the composition the appearance of a deformable, elastic solid, of hardness ranging from 30 to 50 g, in the absence of wax.

Advantageously, this lipstick or foundation composition in stick contains an additive chosen from fatty compounds which are pasty at room temperature, liposoluble polymers and their mixtures, as defined above. The non-waxy polymer is preferably a polymer the backbone of which comprises heteroatom hydrocarbon units, as defined above. More preferably, the composition is a foundation.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating keratin materials of human beings and in particular of the skin, lips and integuments, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition in particular cosmetic such as defined above.

A subject of the invention is also the use of the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of lower average molecular weight

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à 1000, comprenant a) une partie polaire ayant au moins deux motifs de répétition carbonés comportant au moins un groupement apte à former des interactions hydrogène avec le corps lipophile hydrocarboné, ce groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, et b) au moins une partie lipophile comportant une chaîne carbonée à au moins quatre atomes de carbone ou une chaîne siliconée comportant au moins deux atomes de silicium, dans une composition cosmétique ou pour la fabrication d'une composition physiologiquement acceptable, pour diminuer le transfert et/ou le dépôt de traces d'un film de ladite composition, appliqué sur les matières kératiniques, sur un support mis au contact dudit film et/ou augmenter la tenue dudit film. Ce film est, en outre, non gras, léger et/ou confortable. Le composé polymérique et le corps lipophile liquide sont tels que définis précédemment.

to 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain with at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to reduce the transfer and / or the deposition of traces of 'a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support brought into contact with said film and / or increase the hold of said film. This film is, moreover, non-greasy, light and / or comfortable. The polymeric compound and the liquid lipophilic body are as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of at least one polymeric compound of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, in a composition cosmetic or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, solid composition, containing a liquid lipophilic hydrocarbon body, to reduce the greasy or oily feel of said composition.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for reducing the transfer and / or deposit of traces of a film of a physiologically acceptable composition, applied to keratin materials to a support brought into contact with said film and / or to increase holding said film, consisting in introducing into the composition the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of average molecular weight by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two units carbon repeating groups comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a chain silicone containing at least two silicon atoms. The polymeric compound and the liquid lipophilic body are as defined above.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The percentages are given in percentage by mass.

Example 1: Anhydrous solid foundation Crayvallac SF 8% Cyclopentasiloxane 31, 53% Octyldodecanol 35, 47% Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10% Polymethyl methacrylate 15% The foundation is non fat, not sticky. It does not exude at room temperature and has good non-transfer, hold and non-migration properties, properties comparable, according to your experts, to those obtained with a lipstick without transfer of the prior art containing silicone resins, waxes and volatile silicone oils but with non-drying properties and an original powdery appearance.

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EXAMPLE 2 Solid Anhydrous Foundation Crayvallac SF 8% Cyclopentasiloxane 31.53% Isododecane 35.47% Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10% Polymethyl methacrylate 15% The foundation exhibits the same properties as those of Example 1.

EXAMPLE 3 Solid Anhydrous Foundation Crayvallac SF 10% Phenyltrimethicone 32.94% Octyldodecanol 37.06% Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10% Polymethyl methacrylate 10% The foundation exhibits the same properties as those of Example 1.

Example 4: Crayvallac MT 10% anhydrous solid foundation Isododecane 38.9% Phenyltrimethicone 31.1% Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoy) aluminum glutamate 10% Tospear) 145A 10% The foundation present the same properties as those of Example 1.

Procedure (for all examples 1 to 4): * Paste the pigments with 5 g of non-volatile oil for the formulas of examples 1, 3,4. For the example of formula 2, the pasting is done with 3 g of isododecane. Grind the mixture in a three-cylinder mill; * Add the rest of the oils to a pan heated to 110 ° C * 10 minutes later, start stirring using a Raynerie type stirrer (moderate); * Incorporate all of the polymeric compound. Leave to stir for 15 min; Add the pigmented grind and then stir for 10 min; * Reduce the temperature to 100 ° C and gently add the rest of the oils; * Wait 15 minutes and incorporate all of the polymethyl methacrylate. Leave to turn for 15 min and pour the preparation into molds to form foundation sticks.

Example 5: Lipstick in Stick Phase A Crayvallac SF 20% Phase B Jojoba Oil 30% Iso hydrogenated paraffin 30%

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Phase C Pigments (oxyde de fer rouge) 8, 66 % Octyidodécano ! 11,34 % On broie la phase C avec un broyeur tri cylindre. Parallèlement, la phase A est fondue en présence de la phase B. Lorsque le mélange AB est limpide, on ajoute la phase C.

Phase C Pigments (red iron oxide) 8, 66% Octyidodecano! 11.34% Phase C is ground with a three-cylinder mill. At the same time, phase A is melted in the presence of phase B. When the mixture AB is clear, phase C is added.

The whole is then left under stirring, at the melting temperature of AB, for 45 min, then poured into a lipstick mold in order to package it in an appropriate packaging article.

The lipstick stick obtained is non-sticky, non-greasy, comfortable, creamy. It has been judged to have cosmetic properties (feel, appearance) equivalent to a commercial product "Rouge Absolu", sold by Lancôme, considered by experts to be a benchmark as a comfortable lipstick. This benchmark lipstick contains hydrocarbon oils (esters in particular), waxes (at least 10%), glycerin and pigments.

Claims (45)

 1. Composition containing a liquid lipophilic hydrocarbon body and an organic polymeric compound comprising a) a polar part having at least two repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, the organic polymeric compound having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 1000, the hydrocarbon lipophilic body and the organic compound forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the group capable of forming hydrogen interactions is an amide, carbamate, urea, thiocarbamate, thiourea, hydroxyl or association group. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said heteroatom is the nitrogen atom. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound comprises at least two groups capable of forming hydrogen interactions. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the

 lipophilic part comprises at least one functional or reactive group.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar part comprises at least two nitrogen which are in the form of bonds: o It. amide, either-C-N (R) -with R = H or C1-Cgo alkyl and better still C1-C40. O O He He. urethane, either-0-C-NH- or thiocarbamate, or-S-C-NHO O O 0 00. urea, either-NH-C-NH, or biuret-NH-C-N (R) -C-NH- or thiourea, with R a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic part comprises an alkyl or alkoxy chain, linear or branched which may have unsaturations and / or rings, having from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic part comprises a silicone chain of the polyorganosiloxane type, optionally comprising C1 to C24 and better C6 to C alkyl or alkoxy radicals or phenyl radicals. <Desc / Clms Page number 24>

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound comprises at least two lipophilic parts located on either side of the polar part. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that [the units are amide units. 11. Structured composition containing at least one liquid lipophilic hydrocarbon body structured by at least one polyamide of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having at least two amide repeating units, and b) at least one pendant carbon chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal carbon chain, having at least four carbon atoms, these chains being linked to these amide units, this lipophilic body and this polyamide forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyamide comprises two carbon chains located on either side of the amide units. 13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the carbon chains contain from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. 14. Composition according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the amide units are two in number. 15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic polymeric compound or the polyamide results from the polymerization of a diamine comprising a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms with at least one monocarboxylic acid having an alkyl group of 8 to 60 carbon atoms. 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the diamine is chosen from ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1,6-diamino hexane, cyclohexane diamine, isophoron diamine, 2 methyl-1, 5 pentane diamine, 1,12diamino dodecane, phenylene diamine. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the diamine is ethylene diamine. 18. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the mono-carboxylic acid comprises at least one hydroxyl group. 19. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 18, characterized in that the mono-carboxylic acid comprises at least one ester group of carboxylic acid having an alkyl group having from C to Cgo, in particular from C12 to 40. 20. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 19, characterized in that the mono carboxylic acid is chosen from esters of unsaturated mono-hydroxylated aliphatic monoacids such as esters of ricinoleic acid; esters of saturated linear mono hydroxylated aliphatic monoacids such as lactic acid esters, <Desc / Clms Page number 25>  in C12 to C40.

 ethyl 2 hexyl palmitate, esters of 12-hydroxy octadecanoic acid; their mixtures. 21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic polymeric compound or the polyamide results from the amidation of a triglyceride with a diamine optionally in the presence of a mono-carboxylic acid

22. Composition according to claim 21, characterized in that the mono-carboxylic acid is 12-hydroxystearic acid and the triglyceride a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. 23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic body is chosen from: - hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soy, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape or blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passion flower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids; ; - synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R6 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Rs + R6 is 10, such as for example

 Purcellin (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to Cis alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - fatty alcohols Cs to C26 such as oleic alcohol; - their mixtures. 24. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, oils from silicone and their mixtures. 25. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains a liquid fatty phase which represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%. 26. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic compound represents all or part of the liquid fatty phase. 27. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one volatile solvent. <Desc / Clms Page number 26>

 28. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from hydrocarbon solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain and mixtures of these solvents. 29. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures. 30. Composition according to one of claims 27 to 29, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from isododecane, isoparaffins of Ca-C16, their mixtures, optionally combined with decamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane. 31. Composition according to one of claims 27 to 30, characterized in that the volatile solvent is used in an amount sufficient to obtain non-transfer properties. 32. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one coloring matter. 33. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, nacres and their mixtures. 34. Composition according to claim 32 or 33, characterized in that the coloring matter is present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30%. 35. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one additive chosen from water, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, fatty compounds pasty at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble polymers or dispersible in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, dispersants, and mixtures thereof. 36. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one inert filler. 37. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a rigid gel, and in particular of an anhydrous stick. 38. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, deodorant or make-up remover, product for making up the body, eyeshadow or blush, concealer, shampoo, conditioner, sun protection, facial or body care product. 39. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation. <Desc / Clms Page number 27>

 40. Cosmetic method for caring for, making up or treating keratin materials of human beings, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims. 41. Use of the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound with a weight average molecular mass of less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two atoms silicon, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, for reducing the transfer and / or the deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support brought into contact with said film and / or increase the hold of said film. 42. Use of at least one polymeric compound with an average molecular weight of less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body , this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, solid composition, containing a lipophilic liquid hydrocarbon body, for reducing the greasy or oily feel of said composition. 43. Use according to one of claims 41 or 42, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous. 44. Use according to one of claims 41 to 43, characterized in that the polymeric compound is a polyamide comprising two lipophilic parts located on either side of the polyamide skeleton. 45. Cosmetic process for reducing the transfer and / or deposit of traces of a film of a physiologically acceptable composition, applied to keratin materials to a support brought into contact with said film and / or for increasing the hold of said film, consisting to introduce into the composition the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least a group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic hydrocarbon body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two atoms of silicon.