FR2898491A1 - PROCESS FOR REDUCING LIPOAMINOACID-INDUCED ODOR IN COSMETIC AND / OR PHARMACEUTICAL TOPICAL FORMULATIONS AND LOW-ODOR FORMULATIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

Topical, cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% of its mass: from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a compound of formula (1): or a salt thereof, wherein R 1 represents the characterizing chain of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, fatty acid having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 represents the characterizing chain of an amino acid, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or else R3 constitutes, with R2 and N, the characterizing chain of a cyclic amino acid, m is between 1 and 50 or a mixture of said compounds of formula (I) or their salts; at 20% by weight of magnesium aluminum silicate and up to 70% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients. Use as a deodorant agent of magnesium aluminum silicate in a topical cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation comprising between 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight and especially from 1% to % to 5% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I). Process for reducing the odor induced by the presence of a compound of formula (I), in a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation comprising, comprising, in said formulation, magnesium silicate and aluminum.

Description

This patent application relates to the use of silicate

  aluminum and magnesium to reduce the odor of lipoamino acids. Lipoamino acids are structures recognized as cosmetic actives; their activity depends on the nature of the fatty chain and that of the amino acid.

  Examples of cosmetic active agents of this family are purifying active agents such as LIPACIDETM C8G (N-octanoyl glycine) or LIPACIDETMUG (N-undecylenoyl glycine); anti-oxidant active agents such as LIPACIDETM LML (N-lauroyl methionine) and LIPACIDETM 0M (N-oleyl methionine), slimming active agents such as ADIPOSLIMTM (N-lauroyl proline), whitening active agents of the skin, such as SEPIWHITETM MSH (N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine), linoleyl lysine or linoleyl leucine. These lipoamino acids are also incorporated into active compositions in admixture with other ingredients, for example minerals or plant extracts: mention may be made in particular of SEPICALM ™ VG (N-palmitoyl pro line and extracts of water lily flowers), Sepicalm ™ S (N-cocoyl amino acids and magnesium aspartate) or SEPICONTROLTM A5 (N-octanoyl glycine and cinnamon extracts). In general, the dose of lipoamino acid required within the formula to obtain the expected effect is around 1% dry matter. However, at this dose, the lipoamino acids have the disadvantage of generating a characteristic odor within the formulation, more or less important depending on the nature of the amino acids involved and the length of the fatty chain; this odor production is accentuated by the fact that the solubilization of lipoamino acids usually passes through a heating step in aqueous or oily phase. It has been noted that this characteristic odor of lipoamino acids is accentuated over time or when the temperature exceeds 30 C. Today, this odor is hidden by incorporating into the formulations, perfumes chosen for this masking effect, namely the concentration lipoamino acid is reduced at the risk of annihilating their activity. The inventors have therefore endeavored to develop a method which makes it possible to use the N-acyl amino acids in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulations without being hindered by the odor induced by these compounds. The subject of the invention is a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% of its mass: from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a compound of formula (I): R 1 -C ( = O) - [N (R3) -CH (R2) -C (= O) LOH (I) L - or a salt thereof, wherein R1 represents the characterizing chain of a saturated fatty acid; or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, R2 represents the characterizing chain of an amino acid, R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or else R3 constitutes with R2 and N, the characterizing chain a cyclic amino acid, m is between 1 and 50, or a mixture of said compounds of formula (I) or their salts; from 0.1% to 20% by weight of magnesium aluminum silicates; and up to 70% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients. In the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation as defined above, the compound of formula (I) as defined above may be in free acid form or in partially or totally salified form. When the compound of formula (I) is in salified form, it is in particular alkaline salts such as sodium, potassium or lithium salts, alkaline earth salts such as calcium, magnesium or magnesium salts. strontium; ammonium salt or salt of an amino alcohol such as (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium salt. It may also be metal salts such as divalent salts of zinc or manganese, trivalent salts of iron, lanthanum, cerium or aluminum. In the following description, compound of formula (I) means compound of formula (I) in free form or in partially or totally salified form.

  The expression "characterizing chain" used to define the radicals R 1 and R 2 denotes the non-functional main chain of the fatty acid or of the amino acid in question. Thus, for a fatty acid having the general formula R 1 -C (= O) -OH, the characterizing chain will be the chain represented by R 1.

  The subject of the invention is mainly a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation as defined above for which, in the formula (I), the group R 1 -C (= O) - contains from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.

  RI-C (= O) - represents in particular one of the octanoyl, decanoyl, undecylenoyl, dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, 8-octadecanoyl, eicosenoyl, 13-docosanoyl, 9,12-octadecadienoyl or 9-octadecadienoyl radicals. , 12,15-octadécatriénoyle.

  In the formula (I) as defined above, R2 represents in particular the characterizing chain of an amino acid selected from glycine, alanine, serine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, valine, threonine, arginine, lysine, proline, leucine, phenylalanine, isoleucine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, cystine, methionine, hydroxyproline , hydroxy lysine, sarcosine or ornithine. The invention more particularly relates to a topical cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation as defined above, for which in the formula (I), m is a decimal number between 1 and 10 and is preferably less than 5.

  According to a very particular aspect of the present invention, in the formula (I) as defined above, m less than or equal to 2 and is more particularly less than or equal to 1.4. According to another very particular aspect of the present invention, in the formula (I) as defined above, m equal to 1.

  According to another particular variant of the present invention, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation as defined above comprises a single compound of formula (I), as defined above. According to another particular variant of the present invention, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation as defined above, comprises: either a mixture of compounds of formulas (I) all comprising the same RI-C (= O) fragment, or a mixture of compounds of formulas (I) in which m is equal to 1 and all having the same (R 3) NH-CH (R 2) -C (= O) -OH moiety. The compounds of formulas (I) are generally obtained by N-acylation of compounds of formulas (IIIa) or (IIIb), as defined above, or of their salts.

  When it is a mixture of compounds of formulas (I), it is for example obtained by N-acylation of the amino acid mixture resulting from the total or partial hydrolysis of proteins of all origins. These proteins may be of animal origin, such as, for example, collagen, elastin, fish flesh protein, fish gelatin, keratin or casein, of plant origin, such as cereal proteins. , flowers or fruits, such as, for example, proteins derived from soybeans, sunflower, oats, wheat, maize, barley, potatoes, lupine, faba beans, sweet almond, kiwi, mango or apple; it can also be proteins obtained from chorelles (unicellular algae), pink algae, yeasts or silk. This hydrolysis is carried out, for example, by heating, at temperatures between 60 ° C. and 130 ° C., a protein placed in an acid or alkaline medium. This hydrolysis can also be carried out enzymatically with a protease, optionally coupled to an alkaline or acidic post-hydrolysis. When m is greater than 1, R2 represents a single same chain or several chains characterizing different amino acids, depending on the hydrolysed protein and the degree of hydrolysis. The aminograms of some proteins of plant origin are given in the following table: Table A Origin of the protein (proportions in amino acids expressed in% by weight) Oat Soy Wheat Sunflower Glycine 6.9 4.2 3.2 6.2 Alanine 5.9 4.2 2.6 4.8 Serine 5.6 5.1 1.7 5.1 Aspartic acid 16.2 11.7 3.4 10.6 Glutamic acid 28.3 19.1 37, 9 23.6 Valine 2.9 5.0 4.2 4.8 Threonine 3.1 3.9 2.7 4.4 Arginine 6.6 7.6 3.8 8.4 Lysine 3.6 6.2 1.9 3.2 Proline 4.7 5.4 11.7 3.0 Leucine 6.4 8.1 7.1 6.4 Phenylalanine 1.4 5.0 5.4 4.3 Isoleucine 2.2 4 , 8 3.7 4.1 Histidine 1.7 2.6 2.4 2.0 Tyrosine 1.5 3.5 3.1 2.7 Methionine 1.2 1.2 1.6 1.8 Cysteine / Cystine 1.9 1.5 1.9 1.9 Tryptophan - 1.0 1.0 1.35 Table A (continued) Origin of the protein (proportions in amino acids expressed in% by weight) Lupine Potato Bean Maize Glycine 0 , 9 4.8 4.0 2.4 Alanine 2.4 5.0 4.0 7.95 Serine 6.1 5.8 4.9 5.1 Aspartic acid 15.8 12.5 10.5 10, 6 Glutamic acid 8.0 11.5 16.8 23.6 Valine 7.9 7.1 4.5 4.8 Threonine 8.1 6.1 3, 6 4.4 Arginine 16.1 5.0 9.21 8.4 Lysine 7.1 7.8 6.5 6 , 2 Proline - 5.1 4.4 3.0 Leucine 7.45 10.4 7.4 8.1 Phenylalanine 8.6 6.4 4.4 4.3 Isoleucine 8, 7 6.1 3.9 4 , 1 Histidine - 2,2 2,6 2,0 Tyrosine - 5,7 3,6 2,7 Methionine 0.6 2,4 0,8 1,8 Cysteine / Cystine - 1,6 1,7 1,9 Tryptophan 1,2 1,4 1,2 1,3 Ornithine 0,4 - - - The acylation reaction is known to those skilled in the art. It is described for example in the international application published under the number WO 98/09611. It is used interchangeably on an amino acid or on a mixture of amino acids. The acylating agent generally consists of an activated derivative of a carboxylic acid of formula R1C (= O) -OH, such as a symmetrical anhydride of this acid or an acid halide such as the acid chloride or the acid bromide. It may also consist of a mixture of activated derivatives of carboxylic acids derived from natural oils or fats of animal or vegetable origin such as copra, palm kernel, palm, soya, rapeseed, corn, beef tallow, spermaceti oil or herring oil. The preferred magnesium and aluminum silicates used in the formulation as defined above are those marketed by FUJI under the name NEUSILINTM; examples of such silicate powders are magnesium aluminum silicate NEUSILIN UFL 2TM or aluminum and magnesium metasilicate NEUSILINTM US 2. By ingredients is meant in the definition of the cosmetic formulation and / or as defined above, excipients or active ingredients.

  As examples of excipients which may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are surfactants such as sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, sugar ethers, such as lactose ethers, sucrose, xylose, glucose, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their salts, ethoxylated fatty acids, polyglycerol esters, copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, phospholipids or lecithins, acylates amino acid fatty chains, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin and their ethoxylated derivatives, acetylated monoglycerides, sodium lauryl sulphate and its derivatives or taurocholic acid and its derivatives. Among the surfactants mentioned above, there is more particularly the sorbitan monooleate, (HLB = 4.3), marketed under the brand name MONTANETM 80, the sorbitan isostearate marketed by the applicant under the name MONTANETM 70, sorbitan oleate ethoxylated with 5 moles of ethylene oxide (50E) marketed by the applicant under the name MONTANOXTM 81, diethoxylated oleocetyl alcohol (20E), marketed by the applicant under the name SIMULSOLTM OC 72, sorbitan sesquioleate sold by the Applicant under the name MONTANETM 83, eicosaethoxylated sorbitan monooleate (number of moles of OE = 20, HLB = 15, liquid at room temperature), marketed for example under the tradename MONTANOXTM 80, eicosaethoxylated sorbitan trioleate (number of moles of EO = 20, HLB = 12, liquid at ambient temperature), sold for example under the tradename MONTANOXTM 85, sorbitan monolaurate eicosaethoxylated (No. moles of EO = 20, HLB = 15; liquid at room temperature), marketed for example under the brand name MONTANOXTM 20, lauric tricosaethoxylated alcohol (number of moles of EO = 23, HLB = 16.9, wax at room temperature), marketed for example under the name SIMULSOL ™ P23, pentacosaethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil (mole number of EO = 25, HLB = 12, viscous liquid at room temperature), for example marketed under the tradename SIMULSOL ™ 1292, hydrogenated castor oil tetracontaethoxylated (number of moles of EO = 40, HLB 14, pasty liquid at ambient temperature), sold for example under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ 4000 or SIMULSOL ™ 1293, hexacontaethoxylated castor oil (number of moles of EO = 60 HLB = 14: pasty liquid at room temperature), sold for example under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ 1285, oleic acid decaethoxylated (number of moles of OE = 10, HLB = 13, liquid at room temperature), marketed for example under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ 2599. Examples of excipients which may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are also solvents such as water or hydrotropes, such as for example glycerol, glycols such as hexylene glycol or topically acceptable mineral or vegetable oils or light alcohols such as ethanol. As examples of excipients which may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are also, mineral oils, vegetable oils, ethoxylated vegetable oils, animal oils or synthetic oils. Examples of oils of vegetable origin are sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil , peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, l calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables. As oil of animal origin, there is for example squalane or squalane. As mineral oil, there are for example paraffins, isoparaffins, mineral white oils, such as paraffin oil, liquid petrolatum and isoparaffins; As synthetic oils, there are in particular fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, stearate. isopropyl, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, lanolate isocetyl, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, polyalphaolefins, polyolefins such as polyisobutene, synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils and silicone oils. Among these, mention may be made more particularly of dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, and modified silicones. by polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups. As examples of excipients that may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are also fatty alcohols or fatty acids.

  As examples of excipients which may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are also homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or derivatives of acrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid, vinyl monomer, trimethylaminoethylacrylate chloride, hydrocolloids of vegetable or biosynthetic origin, such as, for example, xanthan gum, karaya gum, carrageenates, alginates; silicates; cellulose and its derivatives; starch and its hydrophilic derivatives; polyurethanes. Examples of such commercial excipients are CARBOPOLTM, UTTREZTM 10, PEMULENTM TRI, PEMULENTM TR2, SIMULGELTM A, SIMULGELTM NS, SIMULGELTM EPG, SIMULGELTM EG, LUVIGELTM EM, SALCARETM SC 91, SALCARETM SC 92, SALCARETM SC 95, SALCARETM SC 96, FLOCARETM AND 100, HISPAGELTM, SEPIGELTM 305, SEPIGELTM 501, SEPIGELTM 502, SEPIPLUSTM 400, SEPINOVTM, FLOCARETM AND 58, STABILEZETM 06 ; NOVEMERTM EC 1, ARISTOFLEXTM AVC, ARISTOFLEX HMB, RAPITHIXTM A60, RAPITHIXTM A100 or COSMEDIATM SP. As examples of excipients which may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are also the waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, the wax of Japan, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated oils, silicone waxes , vegetable waxes, fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature, solid glycerides at room temperature. As examples of excipients which may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are also fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty acids, fatty acid and sorbitol esters, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, polysorbates , polyglycerol esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, sucrose esters, 10 alkylpolyglycosides, sulphated and phosphated fatty alcohols or mixtures of alkylpolyglycosides and fatty alcohols described in French patent applications 2,668,080, 2,734 496, 2 756 195, 2 762 317, 2 784 680, 2 784 904, 2 791 565, 2 790 977, 2 807 435 and 2 804 432, such as SENSANOVTM, FLUIDANOVTM or EASYNOVTM 15 As examples of principles active ingredients that may be present in the formulation as defined above, there are the active ingredients known for their action, oxygenating, anti-wrinkle, decontracting, emollient, anti-dandruff, sebum regulator, purifying, soothing, relaxing, relaxing, antist thinning, lightening, depigmenting or pro-pigmenting, neuromodulating or immunomodulating; active agents having a slimming action, for example caffeine or its derivatives, the active agents improving the cutaneous microcirculation, for example the venotonic agents, the draining active agents; assets for decongestant purposes, particularly at the level of the pockets; active ingredients with antimicrobial activity or copper or zinc derivatives or octopirox or SensivaTM SC50; actives having an energizing or stimulating property such as Physiogenyl TM, oxygenation promoting active ingredients, mitochondrial promoting agents, panthenol and its derivatives; active agents known for anti-aging activity, for example SepivinolTM, SepivitalTM, ManolivaTM, Phyto ageTM; moisturizing actives; targeted anti-aging active "anti-aging photo"; the targeted actives protecting the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction; actives enhancing the synthesis of extracellular matrix components, such as collagen, elastins or glycosaminoglycans; Restructuring assets; assets for healing purposes; firming assets; botox-like assets; assets with a view to surgery like; laser-like assets; active agents acting on expression lines; active agents acting on the calcium channels; the active agents having a neuromodulatory action beneficial on aging; the assets improving the integrity of the cutaneous barrier; actives acting on specific skin enzymes; the active agents acting on specific cellular receptors; active agents acting on the metabolism of mitochondria; the active agents acting on the cutaneous magnetic field; protective assets of magnetic waves; assets enhancing cellular communication; anti-radical or antioxidant active ingredients, for example superoxide dismutases, catalases, peroxidases, coenzyme Q10, vitamins, carotenoids, lipoic acid, minerals, polyphenols, glutathione; the assets for tightening purposes; anti-dandruff, anti-acne, soothing, neuromodulatory, anti-substance P, antiallergic, painkiller, anti-stress, anti-redness, immunomodulatory agents; active substances, molecules or enzymes known for their slimming, draining or modulating action of the circulation; active ingredients favoring the elimination of fats; the active ingredients promoting the metabolism of the mitochondria; the active agents limiting the entry of glucose or fatty acids into the adipocytes, the active agents promoting lipolysis; actives that inhibit lipogenesis; the active agents that inhibit the differentiation of adipocytes; active agents acting on angiogenesis; the active agents acting on the glycerol channels; the assets limiting the storage of fats and promoting their elimination; active agents acting on skin grain refinement such as Actisculp ™, Biosculptine ™, Remodulin ™, Isoslim Complex TM, Sveltine ™, Slimfit ™, Sveltonyl ™, Unislim ™, Lipocare ™, Pleurimincyl ™, Phytotal SL ™ or Cyclolipase ™; the sunscreens for example, those contained in the cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII, such as lipophilic sunscreens, such as octorylene, etocrylene, homosalate such as EUSOLEXTM HMS, paramethoxy cinnamate d hexyl ethyl such as PARSOLTM MCX also called octinoxate, octisalate, avobenzone, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 such as the UVINUL M-40 also called oxybenzone, benzophenone-8 benzophenone-12, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, glycerol PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, menthyl anthranilate, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor or isopropyl dibenzoyl methane; sunscreens such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, water-soluble filters such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives, benzophenone-4, TEA salicylate, PABA and DEA methoxycinnamate or still encapsulated sunscreens such as SILASOMATM sold by the company SEIWA KASEI or UV PEARLTM marketed by MERCK. Other examples of known active ingredients are arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, vitamin C and its derivatives, StayTM C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and its derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside, phytic acid, fruit acids, rucinol or resorcinol, azelaic acid, lipoic acid, VegewhiteTM, GatulineTM, SynerlightTM, BiowhiteTM, PhytolightTM, DermalightTM, ClariskinTM, MelaslowTM, DermawhiteTM, Ethioline TM, MelarestTM, GigawhiteTM, AlbatineTM, LumiskinTM, polyphenol extracts, grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts, tea extracts, cocoa extracts, plant extracts from the Amazon rainforest, vegetable extracts, flower extracts, fruit extracts, marc extracts, amino acids, peptides such as AgirelineTM, the total protein hydrolyzers, the hydrolysates p artiels of proteins, polyols (for example, glycerol, butylene glycol, etc.), milk derivatives, structures associating a sugar and a polyol such as, for example, AquaxylTM, urea, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, or the derivatives of this acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, alpha-bisabolol, sugars or derivatives of sugars, polysaccharides or their derivatives, hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, vitamins, vitamin derivatives such as Retinol or ExtramelTM C, retinol derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, minerals, trace elements, extracts of rocks or stones, enzymes or their derivatives, co -enzymes or their derivatives, such as Coenzyme Q10, hormones or "hormone like" such as Phyto ageTM, soy extracts such as for example, RaffermineTM, wheat extracts such as TensineTM or GliadineTM, sesame extracts even for example SesaflashTM, carnitine and its derivatives, taurine and its derivatives, caffeine and its derivatives, theine and its derivatives, plant extracts such as MyoxinolTM LS9736, plant extracts rich in tannins, rich extracts isoflavones or extracts rich in terpenes, extracts of freshwater or marine algae, marine extracts in general including corals, essential waxes, bacterial extracts, minerals such as the range of Givobio ™ and especially the derivatives of calcium, magnesium, copper, cobalt, zinc, manganese, lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids and derivatives.

  Among the active ingredients that may be present in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation as defined above, there are also natural extracts of plants, such as tea extracts, cinnamon or water lily extracts.

  According to one particular embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% of its mass: from 0.1% to 5% by weight of a compound of formula ( I): as defined above, from 1% to 10% by weight of magnesium and aluminum silicates; and up to 85% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients. According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation comprises for 100% of its mass: from 1% to 5% by weight of a compound of formula (I): as defined previously, from 2 to % to 5% by weight of magnesium and aluminum silicates; and up to 90% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients. According to another aspect of the present invention, the subject of the present invention is the use as a deodorant agent of magnesium aluminum silicate in a topical cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation comprising between 0.05% and 10% by weight. , more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight and very particularly from 1% to 5% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above. According to a lastaspect of the present invention, it relates to a method for reducing the odor induced by the presence of a compound of formula (I) as defined above, in a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical topical formulation comprising between 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight and very particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, in which 0.1% to 20% is incorporated in said formulation. % of its total mass, more particularly from 1% to 10% of its total mass and more particularly from 2% to 5% of its total mass of magnesium aluminum silicate. The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it.

  Example 1 Evaluation of the Odor Reduction of a Formulation Containing the N-Palmitoyl Derivatives of Total Hydrolyzates of Wheat Protein

  (1) - Preparation of the Formulations The following simple oil-in-water emulsions are prepared (proportions in constituents are expressed in percentages by weight): Emulsion (I) Emulsion (II) 2 Emulsion (III) (invention) (State of the Control without technique) compound of formula (I) Phase A Lanol Wax 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% CTOTM LANOLTM 1688 20.0% 20.0% 20.0% DEEPALINETM 1.0% 1.0% 0 PVB NEUSILINTM UF 3.0% 0 0 L2 Phase B ULTREZTM 10 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% Water QSP 100% Q.S.P. 100% Q.S.P. 100% Phase C SEPICIDETM HB 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% SEPICIDETM CI 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% Triethanolamine Q.S.P. pH = 7 Q.S.P. pH = 7 Q.S.P. pH = 7 pH 7.1 6.8 Viscosity 28400 mPas 40200 mPas 39400 mPas (Brookfield RVT; M4: V6: Stability at 20 C Stable after a Stable after a Stable after one month of storage Months of storage Months of storage Stability at 45 C Stable after Depth after Dephase after month of storage 1 month of storage storage Wax of LANOL CTOTM: Cationaryl and cetearth alcohol wax 33 LANOLTM 1688: cetearyl octanoate DEEPALINETM PVB: total hydrolyzate N-palmitoyl wheat protein NEUSILINTM UF L2: Amorphous mixed aluminum-magnesium silicate powder SEPICIDETM HB: mixture of phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and butyl paraben; SEPICIDETM CI: imidazolidyl urea ULTREZ ™ 10: homopolymer of acrylic acid Procedure: Preparation of phase B: The UTREZ ™ 10 is dispersed in water with stirring and then this phase is heated to 75 ° C. Preparation of phase A: LANOL CTOTM re and LANOLTM 1688, heated to 75 C, then added to the mixture DEEPALINETM PVB and NEUSILINTM UF L2.

  Phase B is poured into phase A by mixing to make the whole homogeneous. It is allowed to cool with stirring and then the phase C prepared is poured by mixing its constituents. (2) - Evaluation of the odor of the formulations This sensory analysis is carried out with a panel of seven experts trained in the evaluation of the odor of lipoamino acids, in the two following situations: (i) - At the outlet of the bottle in glass: This evaluation is made according to the recommendations of the AFNOR standard NF V 09-006. The emulsions are packaged in coded glass vials, leaving sufficient time to allow equilibrium of vapor pressure. Samples are conditioned at least 24 hours before the start of the sensory test. The expert opens the bottles one after the other and feels the vapor phase to identify the fragrant product. (ii) -When applied to the skin: The emulsion is removed using a metering spatula and then deposited on the back of the hand. The emulsion is spread rapidly in circular motions on the back of the hand in 5 seconds, then the expert immediately assesses the exhaled smell at the part of the skin of the back of the treated hand. The intensity of the odor is evaluated on a scale of 0 to 5, 0 indicating no odor and a very strong odor of lipoamino acid. The evaluation is carried out 1 month after the manufacture of the emulsions, on samples stored at 20 ° C. and at 45 ° C. (the emulsions which are out of phase at this latter temperature, having previously been rehomogenized to carry out the test). The results are given in the following table: Emulsion I Emulsion II Emulsion III After 1 month Odor at the outlet 1 2 0 storage at 20 C Odor on the skin 2 4 0 After 1 month Odor at the outlet 1 2 0 storage at 45 ° C Odor on the skin These results show that the presence of aluminum silicate and magnesium in the emulsion (I) according to the invention makes it possible to very significantly reduce the woody / moldy odor characteristic of DEEPALINETM. PVB.

  EXAMPLE 2 Evaluation of the Odor Reduction of a Formulation Containing N-Undecylphenyl Phenylalanine (1) Preparation of the Formulations The following simple oil-in-water emulsions are prepared (proportions of constituents are expressed in percentages by weight): Emulsion (IV) Emulsion (V) Emulsion (VI) (Invention) (Control state without technique) Compound of formula (I) Phase A Lanol Wax 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% CTOTM LANOLTM 1688 20, 0% 20.0% 20.0% Phase B SEPIWHITETM 2.0% 2.0% 0 MSH Triethanolamine QSP pH = 7 Q.S.P. pH = 7 Q.S.P. pH = 7 Water Q.S.P. 100% Q.S.P. 100% Q.S.P. 100% ULTREZTM 10 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% NEUSILINTM UF 3, 0% 0 0 L2 Phase C SEPICIDETM HB 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% SEPICIDETM CI 0.2% 0.2 % 0.2% PH 7.1 6.7 Viscosity 9900 mPas 4580 mPas 39400 mPas (Brookfield RVT; (Mobile 4: Speed 6) Stability at 20 C Stable after a Stable after Stable after one month of storage one month of months of storage Stability at 45 C Depth after a dephasing after Dephase after month of storage one month of one month storage storage Wax of LANOL CTOTM: Wax based on cetearyl and cetearyl alcohol 33 LANOLTM 1688: cetearyl octanoate SEPIWHITETM MSH: N- undecylenoyl phenylalanine NEUSILINTM UF L2: Amorphous aluminum-magnesium mixed silicate powder SEPICIDETM HB: mixture of phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and butyl paraben; SEPICIDETM CI: imidazolidyl urea ULTREZTM 10: homopolymer of acrylic acid Procedure: Preparation of phase B: The water is heated to 80 C is then added SEPIWHITETM MSH, after complete solubilization, is added at this temperature triethanolamine, ULTREZTM 10 and NEUSILINTM UF L2 .; Preparation of phase A: LANOL CTOTM wax and LANOLTM 1688 are mixed, heated to 75 ° C .; Phase B is poured into phase A by mixing to make the whole homogeneous. It is allowed to cool with stirring and then the phase C prepared is poured by mixing its constituents. 15 (2) - Odor evaluation This sensory analysis is carried out with a panel of seven experts trained in the evaluation of the odor of lipoamino acids, in the following two situations: fi) - At the outlet of the glass bottle: this evaluation is made according to the recommendations of the AFNOR standard NF V 09 - 006. The emulsions are packaged in coded glass vials, leaving a sufficient time to allow the equilibrium of the vapor pressure. Samples are conditioned at least 24 hours before the start of the sensory test. The expert opens the bottles one after the other and feels the vapor phase to identify the fragrant product. (ii) - When applied to the skin: The emulsion is removed using a metering spatula and then deposited on the back of the hand. The emulsion is spread rapidly in circular motions on the back of the hand in 5 seconds, then the expert immediately assesses the exhaled smell at the part of the skin of the back of the treated hand. The intensity of the odor is evaluated on a scale of 0 to 5, 0 indicating no odor and a very strong odor of lipoamino acid. The evaluation is carried out 1 month after the manufacture of the emulsions, on samples stored at 20 ° C. and at 45 ° C. (the emulsions which are phase-shifted at this latter temperature, having previously been rehomogenized to carry out the test). The results are given in the following table: Emulsion IV Emulsion V Emulsion VI After 1 month Odor at the outlet 0.5 1 0 storage at 20 C Odor on the skin 1 2 0 After 1 month Odor at the outlet 0.8 1 0 storage at 45 C Odor on the skin 1 2 0 These results show that the presence of aluminum silicate and magnesium in the emulsion (IV) according to the invention makes it possible to very significantly reduce the piquant odor characteristic of SEPIWHITE . 25

Claims (8)

claims   1. Topical, cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% of its mass: from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a compound of formula (I): RI-C (= O) - [N (R3) -CH (R2) -C (= O) LOH (I) L - or a salt thereof, wherein R1 represents the characterizing chain of a saturated fatty acid or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, R2 represents the characterizing chain of an amino acid, R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or else R3 constitutes with R2 and N, the characterizing chain of a cyclic amino acid, m is between 1 and 50 or a mixture of said compounds of formula (I) or their salts; from 0.1% to 20% by weight of magnesium aluminum silicate; and up to 70% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients.   2. The topical formulation as defined in claim 1, wherein in the formula (I), the group R 1 -C (= O) - has from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.   3. Topical formulation as defined in one of claims 1 or 2, wherein in the formula (I), m is a decimal number between 1 and 10 and is preferably less than 5.   4. Topical formulation as defined in one of claims 1 or 2, wherein in the formula (I), m equal to 1.   5. Topical formulation as defined in one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises for 100% of its mass: from 0.1% to 5% by weight of a compound of formula (I) as previously defined, from 1% to 10% by weight of magnesium aluminum silicates, and up to 85% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients.   6. Topical formulation as defined in claim 5, characterized in that it comprises for 100% of its mass: from 1% to 5% by weight of a compound of formula (I): as defined above, of 2 % to 5% by weight of magnesium and aluminum silicates; and up to 90% by weight of one or more topically acceptable ingredients.   7. Use as a deodorant agent, of magnesium silicate and of aluminum, in a topical cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation comprising between 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight and most particularly from 1% to 5% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in one of claims 1 to 6.   8. Process for reducing the odor induced by the presence of a compound of formula (I) as defined in one of claims 1 to 6, in a topical cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation comprising between 0.05% at 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight and very particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, in which 0.1% to 20% of its total mass is incorporated in said formulation; more particularly from 1% to 10% of its total weight and more particularly from 2% to 5% of its total mass of magnesium aluminum silicate.