FR2844190A1 - Make-up composition for keratinic fibers, especially eye lashes or brows, comprises an aqueous wax dispersion with a defined modulus of rigidity or solids content and defined particle size - Google Patents

Abstract

Make-up composition for keratinic fibers comprises an aqueous wax dispersion with a plateau modulus of rigidity of at least 4000 Pa or a solids content of at least 42 wt.% and a wax particle size of 1 mum or less.

Description

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 The present invention relates to the makeup of keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and more particularly, to the makeup of eyelashes.

 Makeup compositions for the eyes, also called mascara for eyelashes and eyeliner eyeliner or eyeliner, are generally made of a wax or mixture of waxes dispersed using at least one surfactant in a aqueous phase containing, moreover, water-soluble polymers and pigments.

 It is generally through the qualitative and quantitative choice of waxes and polymers that the application specificities sought for makeup compositions, such as, for example, their fluidity, their covering power and / or their curling power, are adjusted. Thus, it is possible to produce various compositions which, applied in particular to the eyelashes, induce various effects such as elongation, bending and / or thickening (loading effect).

 The present invention aims more particularly to provide a composition useful for making a thick makeup of keratinous fibers and in particular eyelashes, said still makeup charging. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "keratin fibers" covers the hair, eyelashes and eyebrows and also extends to synthetic hairpieces and false eyelashes.

 With the makeup compositions currently available, this effect is generally obtained by superposition of several layers of the make-up composition at the level of the keratinous fibers and more particularly of the eyelashes. Moreover, in the particular case of the eyelashes, this effect is very often associated with an agglomeration of several eyelashes with each other, that is to say a non-individualisation of the eyelashes.

 For obvious reasons, it would be advantageous to obtain this thickening effect in a single application while obtaining a good separation of the eyelashes.

 To do this, it would be particularly advantageous to have a makeup composition that is sufficiently concentrated in dry matter to significantly load the eyelash from its first contact with said composition and which also allows each lash to be segregated separately.

 Conventionally, conventional eye makeup compositions have a solids content of between 10% and 40% by weight. If we try to increase this dry matter beyond this value, we quickly come up against a

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 problem of fluidity defect. The makeup composition becomes too thick on application and no longer has the deformability necessary for its uniform application over the entire surface of the eyelashes.

 Unexpectedly, the inventors have demonstrated that it was possible to significantly increase the dry matter content of a makeup composition for keratin fibers and more particularly its wax content (s), while retaining it satisfactory rheological properties especially in terms of deformability and rest consistency, subject to the choice of a specific emulsifying system and a specific wax particle size.

 Advantageously, the compositions claimed, although having an increased amount of dry matter compared with conventional compositions, remain suitable for the deformation required for their homogeneous application by a brush or a comb on the surface of keratinous fibers and in particular eyelashes.

 The subject of the present invention is also, according to one of its aspects, a cosmetic makeup composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of wax particles, characterized in that it has a rigidity modulus plateau Gp greater than or equal to 4000 Pa and in that said wax particles have a size less than or equal to 1 micron.

 The subject of the present invention is also, in another of its aspects, a cosmetic makeup composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of wax particles, characterized in that it has a dry matter content greater than or equal to 42% by weight and in that said wax particles have a size less than or equal to 1 micron.

 The present invention also relates to a process for making up keratin fibers, characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers.

 It also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention to obtain a makeup separating, and where appropriate loading, fibers

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 keratin and in particular eyelashes and eyebrows.

 For the purposes of the present invention, it is meant by the term charging the concept of a thick makeup eyelashes.

 Unexpectedly, it has thus been found that it is possible to prepare makeup compositions having a modulus of high rigidity, that is to say greater than or equal to 4000 Pa, in particular greater than or equal to 5500 Pa, and in particular greater than or equal to 7000 Pa and / or a dry matter content greater than or equal to 42%, especially greater than or equal to 45.5%, or even greater than or equal to 48% by weight, thanks to the implementation, in these compositions, a specific emulsifier system and a wax particle size determined.

CHARACTERIZATION OF THE DRY MATTER CONTENT
The dry matter content, that is to say the non-volatile matter content, can be measured in various ways, for example oven drying methods, drying methods by exposure to infrared radiation as well as than the chemical methods by Karl Fischer water titration.

 Preferably, the amount of dry matter, commonly called solids content of the compositions according to the invention, is measured by heating the sample with infrared rays of 2 m to 3.5 m wavelength. The substances contained in said compositions which have a high vapor pressure, evaporate under the effect of this radiation. The measurement of the loss of weight of the sample makes it possible to determine the dry extract of the composition. These measurements are carried out using a Mettler LP16 commercial infrared desiccator. This technique is perfectly described in the documentation of the device supplied by Mettler.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
About 1 g of the composition is spread on a metal dish. This, after introduction into the desiccator, is subjected to a temperature of 120 C for one hour. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to the mass

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 and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to the mass after exposure to radiation, are measured using a precision balance.

The dry matter content is calculated as follows:
Dry extract = 100 x (dry mass / wet mass).

 The compositions according to the invention are characterized in particular by a solids content greater than or equal to 42% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 45.5%, or even greater than 48% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The compositions according to the invention are also characterized by a dry matter content of less than or equal to 85% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 75% by weight and in particular less than or equal to 65% by weight.

RHEOLOGICAL CHARACTERIZATIONS
The compositions according to the invention are characterized by a viscoelastic behavior.

 Generally speaking, a material is said to be viscoelastic when, under the effect of shearing, it possesses at the same time the characteristics of a purely elastic material, ie capable of storing energy and the characteristics of a material. purely viscous material, ie able to dissipate energy.

 More particularly, the viscoelastic behavior of the compositions according to the invention can be characterized by its rigidity modulus G, elasticity 8 and flow threshold #c; these parameters are defined in particular in the book "Initiation to rheology", G. Couarraze and J. L. Grossiord, 2nd edition, 1991, Edition Lavoisier-Tec 1 Doc.

 These parameters are determined by measurements carried out at 25 ° C. ± 0.5 ° C. using the Haake RheoStress 600 # forced-constrained rheometer from ThermoRheo, equipped with a stainless steel mobile with plane / plane geometry, the plane having a diameter of 20 mm and a gap (distance between the lower plane - called stator plane -

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 on which is deposited the composition and the upper plane - called the rotor plane) of 0.3 mm.

The 2 planes are striated to limit sliding phenomena on the walls of the planes.

 Dynamic measurements are performed by applying a harmonic variation of the stress. In these experiments, the amplitudes of shear, shear rate and stress are small so as to remain within the linear viscoelastic domain of the material (conditions making it possible to evaluate the rheological characteristics of the composition at rest).

 The viscoelastic linear domain is generally defined by the fact that the response of the material (i.e. deformation) is at any time directly proportional to the value of the applied force (i.e. stress). In this field, the applied stresses are weak and the material undergoes deformations without modifying its microscopic structure. Under these conditions, the material is studied at rest and non-destructively.

 The composition is subjected to harmonic shear stress # (t) sinusoidally varying according to a pulse co (# = 2 # v, where v is the applied shear frequency). The composition thus sheared undergoes a stress # (t) and responds according to a deformation y (t) to micro deformations for which the modulus of rigidity varies little according to the imposed constraint.

 The constraint # (t) and the strain y (t) are defined respectively by the following relations: # (t) = # 0 cos (co - t) y (t) = [gamma] 0 cos (## t- #) To being the maximum amplitude of the constraint and yo being the maximum amplitude of the deformation. 8 is the phase angle between the stress and the deformation.

 The measurements are made at a frequency of 1 Hz (v = 1 Hz).

 This measures the evolution of the modulus of rigidity G (corresponding to the ratio of # 0 over [gamma] 0) and of the elasticity 8 (corresponding to the phase shift angle of the stress applied with respect to the measured strain). function of the constraint # (t) applied.

 In particular, the deformation of the composition is measured for the stress zone in which the variation of modulus of rigidity G and of elasticity 8 is

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 less than 7% (zone of micro-deformations) and the so-called plateaux Gp and #p parameters are thus determined. The threshold stress #c (corresponding to the minimum force that it is necessary to apply to the composition to cause its flow) is determined from the curve 8 = f (#) and corresponds to the value of # for which 8 (#c) = 1.05 #p.

 The viscoelastic behavior of the compositions according to the invention is characterized in particular by a plateau stiffness modulus Gp greater than or equal to 4000 Pa, which may in particular be greater than or equal to 5500 Pa, and in particular greater than or equal to 7000 Pa.

 In particular, the compositions according to the invention may have a modulus of rigidity Gp plateau less than 50 000 Pa, in particular less than 40 000 Pa and in particular less than 30 000 Pa.

 In addition, the compositions according to the invention may exhibit a plateau elasticity # p ranging from 1 to 45, and better still from 5 to 30.

 The compositions in accordance with the invention may also have a flow threshold T ranging from 5 Pa to 3500 Pa, and preferably ranging from 20 Pa to 1000 Pa, which means that the composition according to the invention does not flow. not under its own weight but it is necessary to apply to the composition a minimum stress to cause its flow.

WAX
The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 C.

 By bringing the wax to the liquid state (fusion), it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture.

 In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 45 ° C., and in particular greater than 55 ° C.

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 The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from 0.degree. C. to 120.degree. C., at a heating rate of 10.degree. C./min, then is cooled from 120.degree. C. to 0.degree. cooling of 10 C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from 0 C to 120 C at a heating rate of 5 C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

 The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid and rigid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

 The wax may also have a hardness of from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TATX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measurement speed of 0.1mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The melted wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.

The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The value of the hardness is the measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

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 In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

 Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

Among these, mention may be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomericized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference ISO-JOJOBA-50. , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name HEST 2T -4S by the company HETERENE, the di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

 Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes.

 It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57 or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. under the name PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73, by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

 The composition according to the invention generally contains from 0.1 to 40% by weight of waxes, in particular it may contain from 5 to 40%, more particularly from 20 to 40% and better still from 30 to 40% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

 The wax or the mixture of waxes is present, in the compositions according to the invention, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, the size of which is expressed in mean effective diameter by volume D [4.3] as defined above. after, is advantageously less than or equal to 1 m and may be in particular less than or equal to 0.75 m.

 The wax particles may have various shapes. They can

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 especially be spherical.

CHARACTERIZATION OF PARTICLE SIZES
The particle sizes can be measured by various techniques, in particular the light scattering techniques (dynamic and static), the Coulter counter methods, the sedimentation rate measurements (connected to the size via the law of Stokes) and microscopy. These techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and for some of them a particle size distribution.

 Preferably, the sizes and particle size distributions of the compositions according to the invention are measured by static light scattering by means of a commercial Master Sizer 2000 type granulometer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an effective particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H. C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

où Vi représente le volume des particules de diamètre effectif di. Ce paramètre est notamment décrit dans la documentation technique du granulomètre. The composition is characterized by its average effective diameter by volume D [4.3], defined as follows:

where Vi represents the volume of particles of effective diameter di. This parameter is described in particular in the technical documentation of the granulometer.

 The measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. on a diluted particle dispersion obtained from the composition as follows: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 with water, 2) homogenization of the solution, 3) resting of the solution for 18 hours, 4) recovery of the whitish homogeneous supernatant.

 The effective diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and an average refractive index of 1.42 for the particles.

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 The wax particles in the compositions according to the invention may be characterized by an effective diameter D [4.3] of less than or equal to 1 m, in particular less than or equal to 0.75 m and better still less than or equal to 0.55 m .

 The size of the particles is mainly related to the nature of the emulsifying system used to achieve the dispersion.

EMULSIFYING SYSTEM
According to the invention, an emulsifier suitably chosen for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifier having at 25 ° C. an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) balance in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8.

 The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

 The compositions according to the invention may especially contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or surfactant emulsifiers.

See Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRKOTHMER, Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

 In the context of the present invention, this emulsifying system may comprise at least one ionic surfactant and / or a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C. or at least one of these two surfactants combined with minus a gelling polymer.

NON-IONIC SURFACTANT OF HLB SUPERIOR OR EQUAL TO 8
Representative and nonlimiting nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 may be used alone or in mixture in the

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 makeup compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 12 -C 18), such as the oxyethylenated ether of oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7" sold under the name NEODOL 25-7 by SHELL CHEMICALS); fatty acid esters (in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P by the company ICI UNIQUEMA; fatty acid esters (in particular of C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups), as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT S sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT 0 sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT glycerol cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 sold by the company SHEREX, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT L sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT company and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT 1 from GOLDSCHMIDT; fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acids) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which can contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), as the polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 by the company Uniquema; dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220 by the company Dow Corning;

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 dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101 and 201 from the company FINTEX); copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO / PO polycondensates; - and their mixtures.

 The EO / PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: ## STR5 ## from 2 to 120, and b ranges from 1 to 100.

 The EO / PO polycondensate preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and better still ranging from 2000 to 13000. Advantageously, said EO / PO polycondensate has a cloud temperature, at 10 g / 1 in distilled water. , which is greater than or equal to 20 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard. The polycondensate OE / PO that may be used according to the invention may be polyethylene glycol / polypropylene triblock polycondensates. glycol / polyethylene glycol sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "SYNPERONIC PE / L44" and "SYNPERONIC PE / F127" by the company ICI.

 To this nonionic surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8, it may optionally be associated with one or more nonionic surfactants with a HLB of less than 8 at 25 C.

 As representative and non-limiting examples of these agents having an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C., mention may be made more particularly of: esters and ethers of monosaccharides such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and their mixtures as Arlatone 2121 marketed by the company ICI;

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 esters of fatty acids (especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22) and of polyol, especially glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312 by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate; the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Q2-3225C" by the company Dow Corning.

 The amount of nonionic surfactant is generally adjusted to obtain a composition having the parameters as defined above.

 By way of illustration and not limiting to the field of the invention, this amount of nonionic surfactant HLB greater than or equal to 8 may range from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% or even 0, 5 to 15%, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

IONIC SURFACTANT
In general, the claimed composition contains an ionic surfactant, in particular in combination with at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB> 8 and / or at least one gelling polymer.

 The ionic surfactants used in the context of the present invention may be anionic or cationic. However, generally, the choice of at least one anionic surfactant is preferred.

 As a representative of the anionic surfactants that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made more particularly of: salts of C 16 -C 30 fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate; salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof; phosphoric esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N ION from the company CRODA);

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 sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate"; alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate; isethionates; acylglutamates, such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R marketed by the company AJINOMOTO), and mixtures thereof.

 Particularly suitable for the invention, triethanolamine stearate. The latter is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine.

 As representative of cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as N, N, N-trimethyl-ldocosanaminium chloride (Behentrimonium chloride).

 The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl amino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100 by the company Phoenix Chemical.

 In general, the compositions according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 15% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 10% by weight of ionic surfactant relative to to the total weight of the composition.

GELIFYING POLYMER
The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one gelling polymer.

 According to the present invention, the term "gelling polymer" means a polymer

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 capable of gelling the continuous phase, generally aqueous, of the compositions according to the invention.

 The gelling polymer that can be used according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C *, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (v = 1 Hz) by a threshold of #c flow at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling agent considered.

 As an illustration, this concentration is between 1 and 2% by weight for a copolymer acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate sodium 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 as marketed under the name Simulgel 600 by the company SEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for a copolymer AMPS / cetyl methacrylate ethoxylated (250E) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPA) type ARISTOFLEX HMS.

 The gelling polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition in solubilized form.

 More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN N 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company Henkel, the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, the AMPS (Acid polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company CL ARIANT,

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 the AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold by the company SEPPIC; and the AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type marketed by CLARIANT and their mixtures.

 As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

 The gelling polymer is generally present in the composition in an amount sufficient to adjust the modulus of rigidity to a value greater than or equal to

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 4000 Pa, in particular greater than or equal to 5500 Pa, or even greater than or equal to 7000 Pa.

 In this case, the gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40%, better still % to 30% or even 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 It is understood that this amount is also likely to vary depending on whether said polymer is associated or not with an ionic surfactant and / or nonionic and / or a film-forming agent which themselves are likely to affect the consistency of said composition.

FILMOGENE POLYMER
The composition according to the invention may further comprise a film-forming agent.

 According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

 Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

 The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

 The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers such as unsaturated carboxylic acids [alpha], ss-ethylenic such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.

 The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and t-butyl benzoate. vinyl and styrene monomers such as styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

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 Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides and polyureas.

 The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

 The film-forming polymer may be present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known as latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

 As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90, NEOCRYL A-1070, NEOCRYL A-1090, NEOCRYL BT-62, NEOCRYL A-1079, NEOCRYL A-523. by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432 # by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD # by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the trade names NEOREZ R-981 #, NEOREZ R-974 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, the AVALURE UR-405 #, AVALURE UR-410, AVALURE UR-425, AVALURE UR-450, SANCURE 875 #, SANCURE 861 #, SANCURE 878 #, SANCURE 2060 by the company GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85 # by the company BAYER, AQUAMERE H-1511 # by the company HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the trade name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products.

 The composition according to the invention may also comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE ENVIRONMENT
Generally, the compositions according to the invention are based on water or an aqueous medium, that is to say a mixture of water with at least one organic solvent.

 The aqueous medium of the composition may thus comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible organic solvent such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5

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 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as glycerine, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous medium (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) can represent, in practice, from 5% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives
The claimed compositions may also contain ingredients commonly used in the field of makeup of keratinous fibers.

 The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise one or more oils.

 The oil may be chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. The composition advantageously comprises at least one volatile oil.

 For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 2 to 300 mm Hg (1.33 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm Hg (30 Pa). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -2 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

 These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

 The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane),

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 isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

 As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

 It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

 The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight. .

 The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils.

 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower,

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 passionflower, rose hip; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R5 + R6 is # 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates;
The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular oils

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 fluorosilicones, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in EP-A-847752.

 The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The composition may further comprise other ingredients usually used in cosmetics. Such ingredients may include coalescing agents, fillers, dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres or fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, goniochromatic dyes, preservatives, oils, moisturizing agents, perfumes, and their mixtures, which are well known in the state of the art.

 The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic; they are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chromium, ferric blue and their mixtures.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use pigments with a particular optical effect, such as glass particles coated with metal, in particular gold, silver and platinum.

 Nacres or pearlescent pigments are iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or synthesized, insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition. They may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or aluminum oxide. chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments.

 The dyestuffs may represent from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 25% and better still from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

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 The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as nylon (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as ExpanceL # (Nobel Industrie), acrylic powders such as polytrap (Dow Corning), polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (eg Toshiba Tospearls), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (SILICA BEADS) of MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example stearate of zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

 The fillers may represent from 0.1 to 25% and better still from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these ingredients and / or their quantity, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

 The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more conventional adjuvants such as perfumes, preserving agents, alkalizing or acidifying agents, texturing agents, spreading additives, plasticizers and water-soluble active ingredients usually used. in cosmetic preparations for keratin fibers.

PREPARATION METHOD
The compositions according to the invention are generally obtained in a standard manner by hot formation of an emulsion.

 More specifically, these compositions are obtained by heating the wax and

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 or the surfactant (s) of HLB <8 at a temperature above the melting temperature of the wax and not higher than 100 C, until complete melting of the wax and then gradually adding water, and if appropriate gelling polymer and / or surfactants HLB 8, brought to a temperature at least equal to the previous temperature, stirring until return to room temperature.

 Fat-soluble ingredients, for example ceramides, are generally added to the wax prior to producing the emulsion.

 Water soluble ingredients may be added in the water used to make the emulsion, or in the emulsion finally obtained.

 Similarly, secondary ingredients optionally present in the composition are added according to the case either in the starting materials or in the finished composition.

 The compositions of the invention can be applied to the eyelashes using a brush or a comb.

 The thickening effect sought in the context of the present invention can also be reinforced by selecting the device for the application of said composition.

 In this case, it is particularly advantageous to proceed, in the case of eyelash makeup, with the application of said composition with a make-up brush such as described in patents FR 2 701 198, FR 2 605 505 and EP 792. 603 and EP 663 161.

 The following examples are presented for illustrative and not limiting of the invention.

 The amounts indicated are in weight percentage and expressed relative to the total weight of the composition, except contrary instructions.

 The rheology measurements were carried out on a Haake RheoStress 600 constrained-stress rheometer under the following conditions: measurement temperature 25 C, 180 sec stage at 25 C before the start of measurement, stress scan from 1 to 10 000 Pa, - measuring frequency: 1 Hz.

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 The gelling and surfactant polymers used are the following: hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride marketed under the name UCARE POLYMER JR 400 by the company AMERCHOL (Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl cellulose marketed under the name of Cellobond HEC 5000 A distributed by the company BRENNTAG, 25% unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate in water marketed under the name Darvan 7 by the company Vanderbilt, - ethyl acrylate copolymer / methyl methacrylate (80/20) crosslinked, 50% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Daitosol 5000 AD by the company DAITO, - acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer in 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 sold under the name Simulgel 600 by the company SEPPIC, - glyceryl monostearate oxyethylenated (200 EO) marketed under the name Simulsol by the company SEPPIC, - glyceryl monostearate oxyethylenated (30 EO) sold under the name Tagat S by Degussa / Goldschmidt.

 Triethanolamine stearate is prepared in situ by mixing stearic acid and 99% triethanolamine.

The following formulations of mascara have been prepared:
Formulation A: 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propane 1,3-diol-1,3-stearic acid (c16-18: 50/50) 2.49 Carnauba wax 5.77 D-Panthenol 0.50 black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00 ultramarine blue (CI: 77007) 4.14 hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10

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hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88 mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrous silica 0.15 poly sodium methacrylate in water 25% unstabilized 5.00 gum arabic; polysaccharides; arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38 propyl P-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25 99% triethanolamine 1.02 polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene (20 EO) oxypropylene (20 OP) (DP: 170 - viscosity: 1000 is) 0.20 ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate (80/20) crosslinked copolymer, in 50% aqueous dispersion 4.00 acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer in 40% inverse emulsion % in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 2.00 oxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate (200 EO) 3.00 Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) isomerized TRANS of TF 45 C 15.77 sterilized demineralised water qs 100%
The formulation thus obtained has a slippery texture that applies well on the eyelashes. It also has good lash separating properties and allows for a thick eyelash makeup.

 Formulation B: 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.21 Carnauba wax 5.77 D-Panthenol 0.50 black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00 Overseas blue (CI : 77007) 4.14 hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10

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hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88 mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrous silica 0.15 poly sodium methacrylate in water 25% unstabilized 5.00 gum arabic; polysaccharides; arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38 glyceryl monostearate oxyethylene (30 EO) 1.00 propyl P-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25 polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene (20 EO) oxypropylene (20 OP) ( DP: 170 - viscosity: 1000 CST) 0.20 ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate (80/20) crosslinked copolymer, in a 50% aqueous dispersion 4.00 acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 3.50 glyceryl monostearate oxyethylene (200 EO) 3.00 Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) isomerized TRANS of TF 45 C 23.28 sterilized demineralized water qs 100%
The formulation thus obtained is particularly applicable to eyelashes. This gives a slippery texture.

 Formulation C: 2-amino-2-methyl-propane 1,3-di-ol-1 stearic acid (cl-1 8: 50/50) 2.49 Carnauba wax 3.00 D-panthenol 0.50 phenoxy-2 ethanol 0.50 black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00 ultramarine blue (CI: 77007) 4.14

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hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.10 hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88 mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrous silica 0.15 poly sodium methacrylate in water 25% unstabilized 5.00 gum arabic; polysaccharides; arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38 pure white beeswax 2.50 glycerin 3.00 propyl P-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25 99% tri-ethanolamine 1.02 polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene (20 EO) oxypropylene (20 PO) (DP: 170 - viscosity: 1000 CST) 0.20 hydrogenated Jojoba oil 6.27 ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer (80/20) crosslinked, in aqueous dispersion at 50% 4.00 acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer in 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 2.00 glyceryl monostearate oxyethylenated (200 EO) 3.00 Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) isomerized TRANS of TF 45 C 6.27 deionized water sterilized qs 100%
The formula makes it possible to obtain satisfactory makeup and a good separation of the eyelashes.

 Formulation D: 2-amino-2-methylpropane 1,3-di-ol 0.21 stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49 Carnauba wax 3.00

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D-Panthenol 0.50 phenoxy-2 ethanol 0.50 black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00 ultramarine blue (CI: 77007) 4.14 hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88 mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrous silica 0.15 poly sodium methacrylate in water 25% unstabilized 5.00 gum arabic; polysaccharides; arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38 white beeswax, pure 6.50 glycerin 2.00 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25 99% tri-ethanolamine 1.02 polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene (20 EO) oxypropylene (20 PO) (DP: 170 - viscosity: 1000 CST) 0.20 hydrogenated Jojoba oil 6.27 ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer (80/20) crosslinked, in aqueous dispersion at 50% 4.00 acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer in 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 2.00 oxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate (200 EO) 3.00 Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) isomerized TRANS of TF 45 C 6.27 deionized water sterilized qs 100%
The formulation has a creamy texture particularly suitable for application by brush and allows to obtain a good thick makeup eyelashes (mascara charging).

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 Formulation E: 2-amino-2-methylpropane 1,3-di-ol-stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49 Carnauba wax 3.00 D-Panthenol 0.50 phenoxy-2 ethanol 0.50 black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00 ultramarine blue (CI: 77007) 4.14 hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.10 hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88 polydimethylsiloxane mixture and hydrated silica 0.15 poly sodium methacrylate in water 25% unstabilized 5.00 gum arabic; polysaccharides; arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38 white beeswax, pure 5.50 glycerin 3.00 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25 99% tri-ethanolamine 1.02 oxyethylenated (20 EO) oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane (20 PO) (DP: 170 - viscosity: 1000 CST) 0.20 hydrogenated Jojoba oil 6.27 ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer (80/20) crosslinked, in aqueous dispersion at 50% 4.00 acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer in 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 2.00 oxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate (200 EO) 3.00 Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) isomerized TRANS of TF 45 C 6.27 deionized water sterilized qs 100%

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This formula has good loading properties and eyelash separation. It has a slippery texture particularly suitable for application on the eyelashes.

 For the sake of clarity, the emulsifying systems and the amount of wax used in each of the formulations are specifically identified in Table 1 below.

 The rheological parameters and the dry matter content (dry extract) were characterized for each of the formulations. They are presented in Table II.

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<Tb>

T. <SEP> A <SEP> no <SEP> ionic <SEP> Stearate <SEP> of <SEP> triethanolamine <SEP> Polymer <SEP> gelling agent <SEP> Wax
<tb> (% m) <SEP> (% m) <SEP> (% m) <SEP> (% m)
<tb>#W \ ') - jw.S,> .. <SEP> Wax <SEP> of <SEP> Waxes <SEP> of <SEP>
<tb> PEG <SEP> 30-gus <SEP> PEG <SEP>SEP> Triethanolamine Acid <SEP> Simulgel <SEP> Carnauba <SEP> Bees Wax <SEP>SEP> Jojoba
<tb> PEG <SEP> 30-GS <SEP> 200 <SEP> GS <SEP> Stearic <SEP> 99% <SEP> 600 <SEP> Beech <SEP> Isomerised Wax <SEP>,
<tb> hydrogenated
<tb> A <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 2.49 <SEP> 1.02 <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> 5.77- <SEP> 15.77
<tb> B <SEP> 1.00 <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 3.50 <SEP> 5.77- <SEP> 23.28
<tb> C <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 2.49 <SEP> 1.02 <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 2.50 <SEP> 12.54
<tb> D <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 2.49 <SEP> 1.02 <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 6.50 <SEP> 12.54
<tb> 3.00 <SEP> 2.49 <SEP> 1.02 <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> 5.50 <SEP> 12.54
<Tb>

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<tb> Material <SEP> Module <SEP> of <SEP> Constraint <SEP> Angle <SEP> of <SEP> loss <SEP> Size <SEP> of <SEP> particles <SEP> of <SEP> wax
<tb> dry <SEP> rigidity <SEP> Threshold <SEP> () <SEP> (m)
<tb> (% m) <SEP> (103 <SEP> Pa) <SEP> (Pa) <SEP> () <SEP> (m)
<tb> A <SEP> 47.1 <SEP> 10 <SEP> 90 <SEP> 14 <SEP> 0.67
<tb> B <SEP> 50.5 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 25 <SEP> 20 <SEP> 1
<tb> C <SEP> 46.2 <SEP> 9 <SEP> 65 <SEP> 15 <SEP> 0.32
<tb> D <SEP> 49.2 <SEP> 20 <SEP> 100 <SEP> 16 <SEP> 0.82
<tb> E <SEP> 46.4 <SEP> 19 <SEP> 100 <SEP> 16 <SEP> 0.56
<Tb>

Claims (29)

1. Cosmetic makeup composition of keratinous fibers, comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of wax particles characterized in that it has a modulus of rigidity plateau Gp greater than or equal to 4000 Pa and in that the wax particles have a size less than or equal to 1 m.  2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it has a plateau stiffness module Gp greater than or equal to 7000 Pa.  3. Cosmetic makeup composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of wax particles, characterized in that it has a dry matter content of greater than or equal to 42% by weight and in that said wax particles have a size less than or equal to 1 m.  4. Composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that it has an emulsifying system having at 25 C a balance HLB (hydrophilelipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, greater than or equal to 8.  5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises at least one ionic surfactant.  6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the ionic surfactant is at least one anionic surfactant.  7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that said anionic surfactant is selected from C16-C30 fatty acid salts; salts of polyoxyethoxylated fatty acids and mixtures thereof; phosphoric esters and their salts; alkyl ether sulphates; sulfosuccinates; isethionates and acylglutamates and mixtures thereof.  8. Composition according to claim 5,6 or 7, characterized in that the ionic surfactant comprises at least triethanolamine stearate.  9. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that said ionic surfactant is present in a proportion of 0.01 to 30% by weight and especially 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition .  10. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that said ionic surfactant is associated with at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8 to 25 C and / or at least one gelling polymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 35>  11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that said nonionic surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8 is chosen from oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene fatty alcohol ethers, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitol ethers and copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.  12. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that it is chosen from oxyethylenated ethers of cetyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups, ether oxyethylenated with a mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups, stearate. PEG-50, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-200 glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, cocoate polyethoxylated glyceryl with 30 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate, ethoxylated polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol benzoate.  13. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that said nonionic surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8 is present in a proportion of 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular 0.1 % to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.  14. Composition according to one of Claims 10 to 13, characterized in that the gelling polymer is chosen from homo- or co-polymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids, their salts and their esters; polyacrylic acids; the copolymer salts of acrylic acid and acrylamide; sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids; sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids; polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers; the AMPS; AMPS / acrylamide copolymers; AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (cross-linked or otherwise); proteins such as proteins of plant or animal origin; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulosic polymers; vinyl polymers; polymers of natural origin.  15. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 14, characterized in that the gelling polymer is chosen from homo- or co-polymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters, the acid copolymers <Desc / Clms Page number 36>  acrylic and acrylamide, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid), AMPS / acrylamide copolymers and polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers and mixtures thereof.  16. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that the gelling polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1 to 60% and in particular from 0.5 to 40% by weight of the weight total of the composition.  17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1 to 40% and in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight of surfactants of the total weight of the composition.  18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a film-forming polymer.  19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from synthetic polymers, radical type or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof.  20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a dry matter content greater than or equal to 45.5% by weight and in particular greater than or equal to 48% by weight.  21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is a wax, solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.  22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a melting point greater than 45 C, and in particular greater than 55 C.  23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerites; polyethylene waxes; the waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis; waxy copolymers and their esters; <Desc / Clms Page number 37>  waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomericized jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetracreate and di- (1,1,1-trimethyl-1,2-propane) tetraprenate.  24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 40% and especially 5 to 40% by weight.  25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a flow threshold measured by oscillatory rheology (v = 1 Hz) ranging from 5 to 3500 Pa and in particular from 20 to 1000 Pa.  26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.01% to 30% by weight of at least one dyestuff and / or from 0.1 to 25% by weight of a charge.  27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a plateau elasticity #p ranging from 1 to 45, and in particular ranging from 5 to 30.  28. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims to obtain a makeup separating keratinous fibers including eyelashes and eyebrows.  29. Process for making up keratinous fibers, characterized in that a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 27 is applied to said keratinous fibers, in particular the eyelashes.