FR2677381A1 - Method for obtaining a fabric having a faded (washed-out) appearance, fabric and garments obtained therefrom - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for obtaining a fabric of faded appearance, generally obtained by washing garments made up beforehand in fabrics dyed with dyes and methods which are called fadable, characterised in that it consists in using a dye which is as fast as possible to washing, in order to dye the textile material only on the surface. Application: textile industry.

Description

 The subject of the present invention is a process for obtaining washed out fabrics generally obtained by washing clothes made beforehand in fabrics dyed with dyes and so-called washable processes.

 The invention also relates to the fabrics thus obtained as well as the clothes made from said fabrics, totally or partially.

 Wash treatments on clothes are more or less elaborate, with in particular in the case of "jeans" made in indigo denim, the addition of various abrasive products, such as pumice, sand, various chemicals, enzymes, etc. ..

 These treatments are all carried out in washing machines of different types, but all of which have the characteristic of producing a large multidirectional and random mixing of the garments with the various elements introduced (water, stone, etc.), which gives the clothes with faded aspects, but in unison almost inimitable by the processes on fabrics.

 In fact, all the washing treatments on existing fabrics use a dyeing combination of so-called "washable" dyes, that is to say those which are not solid when washed (more or less bound pigments, certain sulfur or direct dyes more or less fixed, leather dyes, etc.) followed after drying, washing treatments, generally accompanied by mechanical effects.

 The machines generally used for this offshore washing or in casings, are either offshore washers with possibly some slight modifications, or conventional dyeing tools.

 The aspects thus obtained are similar to those obtained in clothing in terms of nuance. But none of these fabric treatments can match and reliably reproduce the quality of unison and uniformity obtained in clothing.

 Hose marks or long streaks, coming from the unwinding of the fabric on the machines and "regular" contact with water, are unavoidable effects, although of greater or lesser intensity depending on the fabrics and processes used.

 As to this can be added the unison defects between the selvedges and between the beginning and the end of the piece, the risk factor of unconfectionability is too important and implies that the production of faded effects or "blinds" in fabric does not can replace in a reliable and commercial way the manufacture of these effects by treatments after confection.

The object of the present invention is to remedy these drawbacks and to make it possible to obtain, on a fabric and in an industrially reliable manner, and to reproduce a used and / or washed out and / or "blind" effect with perfect unison good-good good - reproducibility .-
In accordance with the invention, this result is obtained with a process for obtaining washed out fabrics generally obtained by washing clothes made beforehand in fabrics dyed with dyes and so-called washable processes, characterized in that it consists in using the strongest possible dye in the wash to dye the textile material only on the surface.

Advantageously, the fabric thus obtained will then be subjected to a mechanical wear treatment on the surface.

 Thus, instead of using the washable or weakly solid dyes, the process developed consists in using on the contrary the most solid dyes in the washing possible and to succeed in dyeing the textile material so that these dyes do not penetrate inside.

 The second step is to use these superficially dyed fabrics on existing machines of the emery type, or according to the desired degree of wear on a special machine combining a simple treatment of wear and / or embedding in one or more passages in tanks or vats lined with pumice stones, or other abrasives, in a vibrating state.

 The white part, or differently colored depending on the case, constituted by the interior of the material, then appears, and this in a regular and uniform manner, that is to say ready-made, giving the appearance and the touch. identical to those obtained by treatments on clothing and this under more advantageous economic conditions.

 It can also be noted that, depending on the weaves and textures of the fabric, this process makes it possible to obtain aspects similar to those obtained by the technique of weaving in dyed yarns.

 The originality of this process lies in the combination of a very solid, but superficial dye, and a simple treatment of surface wear.

 Its reliability comes from the fact that it eliminates a large part of the parameters that cannot be controlled from the usual washing processes (disgorging of dyes, preferential water flows, wet rubbing, bonding, etc.).

 To optimize the results obtained, it is necessary to master each of its elements and their Just combination: surface dyeing process, choice of weaves and fabric textures and their pre-treatments, and structure and adjustment of the machine to be used.

1. Solid surface dye
The process involves the definition of color formulas established from selected vat dyes, using and promoting the high rise rates, specific to these dyes, so that the dye bath is largely exhausted by the outer layers of the material, so that the inside remains lighter.

 The suppression of anti-migrators and the reduction of inhibitors in the formulas are the main means to achieve this, both in the batch dyeing process and in the continuous.

 We can at this stage deliver the fabric dyed in this way to garment manufacturers who can then stone the garments thus dyed and will obtain worn effects of great interest, especially since they will be completely stabilized, except for wear.

2. Choice of material and pre-treatments
Its influence is important as regards the intensity of the desired aspects. The dense and raised textures favor very aesthetic differential wear.

 A material with good dye affinity and good density promotes surface dyeing.

 The prior mercerization of the material constitutes one of the elements of the success of the process.

 Material made of plied yarns also increases the results.

Claims (11)

1. Process for obtaining washed out fabrics generally obtained by washing clothes made beforehand in fabrics dyed with dyes and so-called washable processes, characterized in ink by using a dye that is as strong as possible washing to dye the textile material only on the surface. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the fabric thus obtained is subsequently subjected to a mechanical wear treatment on the surface. 3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the mechanical wear treatment is carried out on an emeriser. 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the dyeing phase is carried out in such a way that the dye bath is largely exhausted by the outer layers of the material to be dyed. 5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in the dye color formula it removes the anti-migrators and that the inhibitors are reduced. 6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is applied to a dense and raised texture. 7. Method according to any one of claims 7 to 6, characterized in that it is applied to a material previously mercerized. 8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is applied to a material of good dye affinity and good density. 9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is applied to a material consisting of plied yarns. 10. Fabric, characterized in that it is obtained by the implementation of the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9. 11. Garment, characterized in that it is made from a fabric according to claim 10, totally or partially.