ES2286790T3 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT INCLUDES WASHING-RESISTANT FRANGENCE. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention refers to a cosmetic composition which, in particular, enables the perfume component resist wash off by water and sweat and to remain fixed on the skin for a long time watertightly. The cosmetic composition comprises fragrance and a fragrance-fixing complex consisting of 0.01-10% by weight of a hydrophobic, alcohol-soluble, carboxylated acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer and 0.01-10% by weight of a hydrolyzed jojoba ester. Further the complex is able to significantly reduce the total amount of fragrances while giving the same scent feeling to the consumer.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising fragrance wash resistant

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which, in particular, enables the perfume component to resist washing by water and sweat and to remain fixed on the skin for a long time (waterproof fragrance composition).

It is known to encapsulate perfume oils in liposomes or cyclodextrins to achieve controlled release of these oils. Several systems have also been used to improve skin binding or to extend the duration of the perfume, for example, chitin derivatives, chitosans quaternaries, silicate and polyamide materials thermoplastics

US 6143353 A exposes the coating of pharmaceutically active ingredients as well as components fragrant with an aqueous dispersion of a plasticized polymer, hydrophobic acrylic, said acrylic polymer is an (alkyl) ester of acrylic / methacrylic acid.

US 6172037 B1 exposes fixing substances of perfume comprising polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropylcellulose and a hydrophobic oil.

US 6 027 739 A exposes compositions stain resistant comprising a polymer soluble in alcohol, water soluble, such as a copolymer of carboxylated acrylate / octylacrylamide. The polymer is used to impart stain resistance, not as a fixative of the fragrance.

The objective of the present invention is provide a cosmetic composition that is resistant to washing by water and at the same time ensure that the perfume component remains fixed on the skin for a long time.

Another object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition with reduced fragrance content and a feeling of the fragrance by the consumer without any difference.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition that includes fragrances also comprises a complex fixative of fragrance, which includes

0.01 to 10% by weight of a copolymer of carboxylated acrylates / octylacrylamide, soluble in alcohol, hydrophobe,

0.01 to 10% by weight of a yoyoba ester hydrolyzed,

and where all the percentages are related with the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The fragrance interval is between 0.01 and 35% by weight. A preferred range is 0.1-16%, most preferred 0.5-8% by weight, most preferred 1 to 5% by weight.

It is preferred that the copolymer be contained in an amount that goes between 01 and 5% by weight, more preferred 0.1-1.0% by weight. The copolymer of carboxylated acrylates / octylacrylamide can be substituted by the Dermacril® AQF acrylic polymer (National Starch & Chemical Co., Bridgewater NJ, USA).

It is also preferred that the yoyoba ester be present in a range of 01 to 5%, more preferred 01-1% by weight.

In a special embodiment of the invention, the yoyoba ester and the copolymer constitute a complex prepared separately in the relationship 1: 1-4, preferably 1: 1'2-2'8 of Yoyoba ester: polymer.

In another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises an alcohol or mixture of alcohol / water

The fragrance fixing complex mentioned previously it can be used in cosmetic products such as emulsions, creams, lotions, sprays, shower gels, oils shower, bath products, foam baths, perfumes, products for after shave, shave balms, facial lotions, hair conditioners, skin gels, deodorants, detergents, etc. At the same time, other auxiliaries can be used cosmetics and carrier substances as they are commonly used in such preparations, as well as other active agents. The auxiliaries include, for example, preservatives, dyes, polyols, esters, electrolytes, gel forming agents, polar oils and not polar, polymers, other copolymers, stabilizers, agents surfactants

Cosmetic active agents include, by example, organic sunscreens, scrubbers, substances moisturizers, vitamins, enzymes, active agents based on plants, polymers, antioxidants, natural active agents anti-inflammatory

       \ newpage
    

Preferred cosmetic fragrances are oil soluble fragrances such as all oils of fragrance that are known to the person skilled in the art.

The acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer carboxylated, alcohol soluble, hydrophobic used according to the invention It is soluble in ethanol, isopropanol and fatty alcohols. It can be done water soluble or water dispersible by neutralizing carboxy groups with water-soluble bases such as triethanolamine, sodium carbonate, aminoethylpropanol, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide. So, it can be Easily removed from the skin by washing with soap, if necessary. Due to the interaction of the copolymer with the yoyoba ester hydrolyzed, said ester is soluble in the system aqueous-alcoholic and in glycol, and the solvent, the fragrant molecules are integrated into a complex and remain attached to the skin for a long time. At the same time, the complex mentioned above have a strong water repellent effect. Thus, a very good resistance of the molecules is achieved fragrant on the skin during the rain, sweat, swimming, etc.

A preferred copolymer is the copolymer of octylacrylamide acrylates, with an acidity of 2.4 meq / g. Such product is available as DERMACRYL®AQF or DERMACRYL®79 from National Starch and Chem. Comp., NJ, USA.

A preferred hydrolyzed yoyoba ester is one of plant origin ( Simmondsia chinensis ) that has a saponification value according to AOCS Cd 3-25 * of maximum 1mg KOH / g, an iodine value according to AOCS Cd. 1d-92 * of 14 and 17 g / 100 g and a trans isomer value according to AOCS Cd 14-95 * of maximum 0.1% by weight (* test procedure according to the American Oil Chemists Society). Such a product (INCI: hydrolyzed yoyoba esters (and) water) is available under Floraesters® K-20W Jojoba from Int. Floratech Technol. Ltd., Hartsdale, NY, USA.

The following substances are especially suitable for additional treatment of the cosmetic complex.

Oils : silicone oils, mineral oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, squalane, tridecyl trimellitate, trimethylpropane triisostearate, isodecyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, as well as Vegetable oils such as calendula oil, yoyoba oil, avocado oil, Macadamia nut oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, corn oil, oil of cottonseed, olive oil, palm kernel oil; rapeseed oil, safflower oil, sesame seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, Kukui nut oil, thistle oil, and mixtures thereof. Synthetic squalane or squalane made from natural products is also suitable, as are cosmetic esters or ethers, which can be branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated.

Scrubbers : antioxidants, vitamins such as vitamin C and derivatives thereof, for example ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate; vitamin A and derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivatives thereof; Vitamin E and derivatives thereof such as tocopheryl acetate; flavones and flavonoids; amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof; carotenoids and carotenes such as α-carotene, β-carotene; uric acid and derivatives thereof; α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid.

Moisturizing substances : glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof:

Organic sun screens : 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; cinnamic acid esters such as the (2-ethylhexyl) ester of 4-methoxycinnamic acid; benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidene camphor. Other oil-soluble UVA filters are benzophenone-3, butylmethoxybenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, homosalate, and octyl dimethyl PABA.

Surfactants : anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic or cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. Cationic polymers or a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants are spatially preferred.

Non-limiting examples of surfactants Anionic foaming include those selected from the group composed of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, sulfated monoglycerides, sulphonated oleophins, alkyl aryl sulfonates, primary alkane sulfonates or secondary, alkyl sulfosuccinates, acyl taurates, acyl isothionates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, methyl sulfonate esters, sulfonated fatty acids, phosphates of alkyl, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylated peptides, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl lactylates of surfactants anionic containing fluorine, and mixtures thereof. Mixes of anionic surfactants can be used in a manner effective in the present invention.

Examples of amphoteric surfactants which can be used in the present invention include at least those who have an acidic crane. The mentioned group can be a carboxyl group or a sulfonic acid group. Nitrogen quaternary and, therefore, quaternary amino acids are included These should, in general, contain an alkyl group or alkenyl group with 7 to 18 carbon atoms. Detergents Suitable amphoteric include simple betaines and amidobetaines, which are a mixture of C12 alkyl groups and C14 derived from coconut, so that at least half, preferably three quarters of the hydrocarbon chain R1 has 10 to 14 carbon atoms. It is preferred that the other two chains of hydrocarbon R2 and R2 are methyl. In addition, amphoteric detergent It can be a sulfobetaine. Amphoacetates and dianfoacetates they can also occur as possible zwitterionic compounds and / or amphoteric, which can be used. A surfactant amphoteric should, in general, be contained in an amount that go approximately between 0.1 and 20%, preferably 5 and 18% by weight, relative to the composition.

Suitable non-phonic surfactants include, but are not limited to, the acyl monoethanolamide of coconut or coconut acyl diethanolamide, alkyl polysaccharide, lactobionamide, ethylene glycol ester, glycerin monoether, polyhydroxyamide (glucamide), primary alcohol ethoxylates and secondary, in particular the aliphatic ethoxylated alcohols of C8-C20 with an average of 1 to 20 moles of oxide ethylene per mole of alcohol. Mixtures of the surfactants mentioned above.

They can be added to the composition of the invention pigments, mixtures of pigments or powders with an effect similar to pigments, also including those with an effect of pearl luster. These may include, for example, oxides of iron, aluminum silicates, such as ocher, (di) oxide titanium, mica, kaolin, manganese containing clays such like shadow and red bolus, calcium carbonate, French chalk, mica-titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide-iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride, nylon beads, ceramic beads, powders of expanded and unexpanded synthetic polymer, compounds organic natural powders such as ground solid seaweed, parts of ground plant, encapsulated and non-cereal starches encapsulated and mica-titanium oxide-dye organic.

They are also included in the composition of the invention antiperspirants and deodorants, such as triclosan, trimethyl citrate, farnesol, aluminum hydrochloride, GLYC Zirconium aluminum tetrachloohidex, etc.

In comparative tests, it has been found that the adding the complex according to the invention causes an increase considerable in water resistance during a period of 4-6 hours, both in a sensory test with people of test as in an analytical test by means of a chromatography of  gas / mass spectroscopy. The water resistance of a lotion after shave in an 8-hour test also it was considerably higher than that of the original product not treaty.

It has also been discovered that the addition of complex in the range of 0.5-8% by weight, preferably 1-3% by weight, related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, for example, a perfume, to The other ingredients of the cosmetic composition, can reduce the amount of the fragrance normally added to the composition No loss of fragrance intensity. This means that in consumer studies conducted to determine if there were difference in the character of the fragrance between a standard product and a product with 20% less fragrance and added the 1-2% of the complex of the invention, has not been affirmed a significant difference.

The preferred method for manufacturing the waterproof cosmetic composition is that an ester of hydrolyzed yoyoba be mixed with some alcohol or mixture of alcohol / water, and at a temperature that goes between 18-40 ° C an acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer in powder form be pulverized in the mixture during the process mixing The received complex can be dried before use in the cosmetic formulation or it can be added directly to the Other ingredients of the composition. Mixing is also possible of some alcohol, of the ester, of the copolymer and optionally of a 10% solution of Na2CO3 in that order.

The use of the fragrance fixing complex of the invention is preferred in the following product groups

- perfumes

- hair care and care products body, for example, hair washes, body washes, gels shower, shampoos, conditioners, etc.

- sun care products, for example creams solar, solar lotions, after sun products, body bronzers, solar sprays, sun milks, etc.

- antiperspirants and deodorants

- color cosmetic products, for example, mascaras, bases, makeup, lipsticks, lip balms, etc.

The invention will be explained hereinafter more in detail through examples. The figures show

Fig. 1: sensory analysis of the product for after shaving from example 1

Fig. 2: analytical results of the product for after shaving from example 1

Fig. 3: sensory analysis of the EDT of the example eleven

Fig. 4: MEFS results for the gap glued to the skin of fragrance C (example 16)

All amounts of the examples are given in weight percentage, unless otherwise indicated.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 1 After shave product

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

one

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

The ingredients of phase A were mixed with each other, incorporating the PEG-60 oil hydrogenated castor at about 60 ° C. Separately, the phases B and C were prepared in the same way. Phase D was prepared mixing yoyoba ester with ethanol at approximately 25 ° C while spraying in the copolymer in powder form during mixing process The mixture was then stirred until it was obtained a clear, homogeneous solution. First, phase D was mixed with phase B. Next, phases A and C were mixed a with the other and the mixture was filtered using a pad of filter (60S). The mixture of phases D and B was then added to the mixture of phases A and C while stirring and finally phase E was added and the total mixture was stirred at a rate constant.

Example 2 Soft solid antiperspirant

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

3

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Ingredients 1-5 are weighed in a vessel, heated to 80-85 ° C and mixed until the waxes have melted and the mixture is uniform. Be removes heat and dimethicone is added. The mixture will be set to approximately 75 ° C. The tetrachlorohydrex of Al-Zr after the mixture cools below of 75 ° C. Mixing and cooling continue until the temperature is below 45 ° C.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 3 Body steam

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

5

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Alcohol and fragrance are mixed with agitation. Phase B is added with stirring and mixed until Be clear and uniform. The main mixture is filtered and the mixed phase C separated to the main mixture with stirring. Be add phase D and mix until uniform.

Example 4 Clear antiperspirant gel (female)

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

6

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

The ingredients of phases A and B are mixed separately. If the refractive index of phase A is higher to that of phase B, some water is added to phase B. The phase B to phase A very slowly, while mixing with Rapidly phase A and homogenize. Phase C is added and mixed until uniform. Phase D is added while stirring.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 4th

A gel is prepared as in example 4, with which water resistant complex comprises 0.5% of Dermacryl® AQF and 0.225% hydrolyzed yoyoba esters.

Example 5 Conditioner

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

8

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

The ingredients of phase A are combined with mix and heat to 70 ° C, the temperature is maintained. Be add the ingredients of phase B one by one to the phase A, mix until uniform and adjust the pH by citric acid. The ingredients of phase C are combined and heat up to 70 ° C and mix with the main mixture until Be uniform. Phase D ingredients are added so individual and adjust the pH with sodium hydroxide.

Example 6 Lotion

10

The ingredients of the aqueous phase A are mixed separately and heated at 75-85 ° C while Mix, the temperature is maintained. The ingredients of phase B without potassium cetyl phosphate (PCP) and heat up to 75-80 ° C, PCP is added until it has no lumps. Be add the melted phase C ingredients (45-50 ° C) to phase B and phase B (75 ° C) is added to phase A. It is homogenized for 7-10 minutes. Be add water and TEA from phase D at 65 ° C and then the complex. TO 50 ° C cyclomethicone and then panthenol are added. Phase E and F at 35 ° C and cooled to 30 ° C.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 7 Shampoo

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

12

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

The phases A and B prepared by separated. The ingredients of phase C are added while mixture. Each ingredient of phase C is mixed separately with the main mix until clear and uniform. It continues mixing while phase D is added. The pH is adjusted with the phase E if necessary. Phase F is added while mixing.

Example 8 Shower gel

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

13

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

The phases A and B prepared by separated. The ingredients of phase C are added while mixture. Each ingredient of phase C is added separately to the Main mix until clear and uniform. It adjusts the viscosity with phase D and mixing continues. PH is adjusted with phase E while mixing. Phase F is added while mixture.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 8a

A shower gel is prepared as in the example 8, the water-resistant complex comprising 0.5% of Dermacryl® AQF and 0.225% hydrolyzed yoyoba esters.

Example 9 Eau de Toilette

14

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

The procedure is according to example 11.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 10 Fragrance

fifteen

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 11 Eau de Toilette (EDT)

16

17

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Separate prepared phases A and B are mixed. Alcohol and hydrolyzed yoyoba esters are mixed. It adds spraying acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer while mixing and mix until clear and uniform. Phase C is added to the main mix and, after that, phase D. It mixes until Be uniform.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 12 Light deodorant stick

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

18

Example 13 Fragrance

19

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Phases A and B are mixed and filtered. The Phase C is added while mixing. Phase D prepared by separated is added to the main mix and mixed until it is clear and uniform.

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Example 14 Fragrance

twenty

       \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
    

Phases A and B are mixed and filtered. The phase C prepared separately is added to the main mixture and mixed until clear and uniform.

Phase C is added while mixing.

Example 15 Comparative Test I

The comparative tests were carried out. using the composition according to example I (sample A) and the same composition without the ingredients of phase D (sample B).

Two drops (approx. 0.3 g) of each sample were dropped on the inside of the right forearm or left of the test person. The drying time was 15 minutes Two hours later, the forearm was submerged in water at a temperature of 26 ° C for 4 minutes. The forearm was then air dried. The immersion and drying process was repeated after 4 and 6 hours, rinsing the water container and changing Container water before each dive.

In a sensory test performed with 4 experienced testers, a result was obtained according to the figure 1. The same samples were analyzed by chromatography of gas / mass spectroscopy and the diagram according to the figure was obtained 2. The results were achieved through MEFS (see example 16 part B). Both results show that resistance Water has increased considerably.

In a comparative test that uses an EDT according to the Example 11 (shows C but with 0.5% of complex only) and the same EDT without the yoyoba copolymer and ester complex (sample D), is discovered that water resistance determined by a test extensive sensory was more than twice the values of the same EDT without the complex according to the invention after 6 hours. A test similar using an after shave product demonstrated this superiority in a sensory test even after 8 hours.

Example 16 Comparative Test II

Part TO

The comparative tests were carried out. to demonstrate the ability of the complex of the invention to Reduce the fragrance content in a perfume.

Two perfumes were produced. The perfume C had the following ingredients (in% by weight): 727% alcohol, 0.5% diisopropyl adipate, 0.5% alkyl lactate C12-C15, 12% fragrance, 14.3% water. Fragrance C1: the first three ingredients were the same as in the perfume C but with 9.6% fragrance, 15.3% water, 1% of the complex of example 2, the 0.4% solution of Na2O3 (10%)

A group of 20 participants in the discussion that will identify the different proportions of fragrance in perfume C and perfume C1. Three participants in the discussion identified the different fragrances correctly, 17 did not they made.

The same results were obtained with a Fragrance reduction from 16% to 12.8% and from 15% to 12% respectively (each with 1% of the complex in the formula with the reduced fragrance ratio).

Part B

MEFS test

Solid phase microextraction (MEFS) is a method in which the analytes are divided from a sample into a polymer, coated on a cast silica bar of normally 1 cm. in length per 100 µm in diameter. The fiber it is fixed inside the end of a stainless steel tube fine contained in a device similar to a syringe and protected by an outer stainless steel needle. The plunger of device is sunk to expose the fiber to the matrix of the sample, retracted at the end of the sampling time, and then it is sunk again to expose the fiber to a desorption interface for analysis, in this case by gas chromatography. It does reference to example 2 of US 2002/0192174 A1.

The result of the GC measurement is presented in figure 4 with 12% of perfume C and 9.6% of perfume C1 1% water resistant complex glued to the skin included according to example 2. Both perfumes show almost the same values of area. This confirms the results of the consumer test of the Part A.

Claims (15)

1. Cosmetic composition with a fragrance water resistant, said composition comprises at least one fragrance and 0.1 to 15% by weight of a complex fixative of fragrance, said fragrance fixing complex comprises 0.01 to 10% by weight of a copolymer of carboxylated acrylates / octyl acrylate, hydrophobic, soluble in alcohol and 0.01 to 10% by weight of a yoyoba ester hydrolyzed, and where all the percentages are related with the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 2. Composition of claim 1, wherein additionally an alcohol or a mixture of alcohol / water 3. Composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the copolymer is in the range of 01 to 5% in weight. 4. Composition of claim 3, wherein the amount of the copolymer is in the range of 0.1 to 1% in weight. 5. Composition of claim 1, wherein the Yoyoba ester amount is in the range of 0.1 to 5% in weight. 6. Composition of claim 5, wherein the Yoyoba ester amount is in the range of 01 to 1% in weight. 7. Composition of claim 1, wherein the Fragrances are present in an amount that varies between 0.01 and 35% by weight. 8. Composition of claim 7, wherein the Fragrances are present in an amount that varies between 01 and 16% by weight. 9. Composition of claim 8, wherein the fragrances are present in an amount that varies between 0'1 and 8% by weight. 10. Composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolyzed yoyoba ester is one of plant origin ( Simmondsia chinensis ) with a saponification value according to AOCS Cd 3-25 * of maximum 1 mg. of KOH / g, an iodine value according to AOCS Cd 1 d-92 * of between 14 and 17 g / 100 g and a trans isomer value according to AOCS Cd 14-95 * of maximum 01% by weight where * means a process of test according to the American Oil Chemists Society. 11. Composition of claim 1, wherein the complex is provided in a cosmetic product selected from the group composed of perfumes, eau de toilettes, products of the hair, body care products, sun care products, antiperspirants, deodorants, detergents and products Color cosmetics 12. Composition of claim 1, wherein the proportion of the complex in the cosmetic product is in the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight. 13. Composition of claim 1, wherein the proportion of the complex in the cosmetic product is in the range from 0.5 to 4% by weight. 14. Composition of claim 1, wherein the proportion of the complex in the cosmetic product is in the range from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight. 15. Composition of claim 1, wherein other cosmetic auxiliaries, cosmetic assets and substances carriers as are normally used in such preparations are Ingredients of the composition.