EP1332752B1

EP1332752B1 - Shaving, after-shave and skin conditioning compositions

Info

Publication number: EP1332752B1
Application number: EP03001044A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Robert Benjamin Norburn
Original assignee: Tresco Holdings LLC
Current assignee: TRESCO HOLDINGS LLC
Priority date: 2002-01-31
Filing date: 2003-01-17
Publication date: 2011-03-16
Anticipated expiration: 2023-01-17
Also published as: DE60336362D1; ES2363733T3; CA2416305A1; EP1332752A1; US7354573B2; US20030143253A1; ATE501763T1

Abstract

A skin care composition comprising about 20% to about 85% by weight water, about 2% to about 40% by weight stearic acid and about 2% to about 40% by weight glycerin, diglycerin, grapeseed oil or a combination thereof is described. The composition is particularly useful as a shaving cream.

Description

Field of the Invention

The present invention is related to skin care compositions, particularly to shaving, after-shave and skin conditioning compositions.

Background of the Invention

Except for the introduction of electrical or mechanical devices, shaving methods have changed little over the centuries, the traditional wet shave still being predominant. Attempts are made to soften the hair by the application of wetted soap lathers, foams, gels or oils of various natures to make the hair somewhat easier to cut. These pre-shaving applications do little if anything to alleviate the problems encountered when shaving, specifically, razor bumps (pseudo folliculitis barbae), razor burn (microscopic cuts that easily become infected or inflamed), nicking or more serious cutting of the skin, and premature wear on the cutting edge of the blade being used. The applications mentioned above (soap lathers, gels, etc) usually require the use of additional 'after-shave' products of one form or another to calm or condition the skin after shaving.
US Patent 4,608,392 describes the use of polyether oligomers in a skin care product.
US Patent 6,264,963 describes a skin care composition whose benefits are achieved by using petrolatum or mineral oil. Although this patent mentions "softening of the hair prior to cutting" it makes no claim or suggestion that their formula could be used for shaving.
United States Patent 4,784,849 and corresponding Canadian Patent 1,244,350 describe skin care and shaving compositions comprising phospholipids.
United States Patent 5,345,680 describes a shaving aid for wet razor comprising polymers.
United States Patent 5,902,574 describes a shaving preparation that uses cysteamine.
British Patent 429,786 describes a shaving preparation comprising sulphonated oils.
British Patent 454,658 describes a shaving cream, however, there is no mention of the use of either glycerin or diglycerin.

Brief Summary of the Invention

The invention provides a skin care composition according to claim 1. Advantageous embodiments are laid down in further claims.
The skin care composition falls within a range comprising about 20% to about 85% by weight water, about 2% to about 40% by weight stearic acid and about 2% to about 40% by weight of glycerin, diglycerin, grapeseed oil or a combination thereof, based on the composition's total weight.
Compositions of the present invention are useful as skin care products.
There is further provided a commercial package comprising a skin care composition of the present invention together with instructions for its use in caring for skin.

Detailed Description of the Invention

The amount of water (preferably water which has been deionised, distilled or otherwise purified) utilized in the composition may vary dependent on the desired consistency/viscosity of the final product. Water is generally present in an amount of about 20% to about 85% by weight, more particularly from about 50% to about 75% by weight and even more particularly from about 55% to about 70% by weight of the total composition.
Stearic acid is a commercial product and may be obtained from a variety of sources well known to those skilled in the art.
Glycerin and diglycerin are also commercial products and may be obtained from a variety of sources well known to those skilled in the art.
Grapeseed oil is also a commercial product and may be obtained from a variety of sources well known to those skilled in the art. It is present in an amount of 5% to 10% by weight of the total composition. Grapeseed oil is an anti-oxidant and may also help to lubricate during shaving. It is also a known and documented anti-carcinogen.
It is possible to make glycerin and diglycerin from grapeseed oil by known processes. Any glycerin or diglycerin used in the composition may be made partially or entirely from grapeseed oil. This is especially useful when grapeseed oil itself is not used in the composition.
The composition contains glyceryl stearate as an emulsifier and grapefruit seed extract (GSE) as a preservative.
The composition may contain small amounts of other ingredients (generally 5% or less of total weight, although greater amounts are possible in some instances). Other ingredients include perfumes (e.g. Bergamot oil), colouring agents, UV blockers, skin protectants (e.g. zinc oxide and the like), insect repellents, medications, pH modifiers (e.g. sodium hydroxide), or a combination thereof. Typically, other ingredients may be present in an amount of less than 2% by weight. These ingredients are well known in the field of skin care and the proportions are established and known to those skilled in the art.
Preservatives may act as product stabilizers and/or as shelf life enhancers and/or as anti-microbials. Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) is a natural organic ingredient. Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) is well known and widely used for its antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral and disinfectant properties.
The composition of the present invention is easily formulated by methods known in the art. Generally, the ingredients may be blended in the desired proportions to form the composition and then packaged into a suitable container, together with instructions for its use. Furthermore, the composition is easily packaged as a non-pressurized product, safe for air travel.
In a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be prepared in a stage-wise blending procedure. For example, a first phase containing stearic acid, and optionally grapeseed oil and glyceryl stearate, is heated and blended with a propeller mixer in a jacketed vessel, at a temperature that permits homogenisation, typically from about 60 degrees Celsius to about 80 degrees Celsius more particularly 70 degrees Celsius. A second phase containing water and glycerin and/or diglycerin, and optionally other ingredients such as grapefruit seed extract, is heated and blended with a propeller mixer in a separate jacketed vessel, at a mixing temperature that permits easy homogenisation, typically from about 60 degrees Celsius to about 80 degrees Celsius, more particularly about 70 degrees Celsius. Once both phases are homogeneous, the first phase may be added to the second phase by blending, for example with a Silverson™ type mixer, for a period of time to permit substantially thorough blending (e.g. for about 1 hour depending on batch size). If desired, a pH modifier may be added to the mixture of the first phase and second phase to adjust the pH to 6.0-6.5, and the mixture blended with a propeller mixer before blending in the Silverson™ type mixer. After mixing with the Silverson™ type mixer, the product may then be returned to a propeller mixer and blended until the product has cooled sufficiently to permit the addition of any other desired ingredients. A third phase containing any other desired ingredients may then be thoroughly dispersed in the product by introduction and blending as appropriate, and the product then left to cool.
The composition of the present invention preferably is used as a shaving lubricant, as an after-shave and/or as a skin conditioner that moisturises, conditions and/or protects the skin, leaving an invisible barrier that provides a pleasant and non-greasy tactile experience. The composition is particularly useful as a multi-purpose cream that not only provides a very comfortable and close shaving experience, but also acts as an after-shave, conditioning and protecting the skin. More particularly, the composition is useful as a shaving cream.
Advantageously, the composition may provide a high degree of lubricity for shaving, plus emollient and humectant properties when used to condition the skin. The compositions are easily applied and quickly absorbed by both the hair and the skin. The composition reduces the need for additional after-shave compositions, in particular, reducing or eliminating the need or reliance on alcohol used in many after-shave products.
The composition of the present invention softens the hair and lubricates the skin, reducing the drag or friction of the blade against the hair or the skin, making it much easier for a blade to cut the hair. The high lubricity provided by the composition reduces the incidence of razor bumps, razor burn, nicks and cutting of the skin whilst at the same time protecting the cutting edge of the blade from excessive wear thus extending the effective life of the razor. The composition being readily absorbed by the skin is less likely to be dragged off during repeated shaving strokes, as is the case when using soap lathers, foams or other similar products, therefore providing a better and less problematic shave. The composition reduces or eliminates the need for soaps, foams, gels and other pre-shave lubricants and also reduces or eliminates the need to use water when shaving.
Being a non-foaming application, the composition also allows a person shaving to see more readily where the blade is cutting, which is particularly appreciated by those who have a partial beard or moustache.
However, since the composition is an excellent skin conditioner, it may be used solely as such, if desired. In particular, the composition provides excellent skin hydration plus the additional benefit of reduction of TEWL (trans epidermal water loss).
To reduce the possibility of drying of the skin, irritation of the skin, dermatitis or any other adverse reactions associated with petroleum or mineral oils these ingredients have been intentionally avoided.
Animal products and or by-products are also intentionally excluded not simply to avoid known adverse skin reactions but also to avoid any (even theoretical) prospect of contracting a prion disease (e.g., BSE aka Mad Cow Disease) that could be present in animal products or by-products. Furthermore animal products and or by-products have been intentionally excluded to respect people's religious beliefs and lifestyle choices. The compositions are intended to be both Kosher and Halal. Peanut oil is intentionally avoided so as to eliminate the risk of severe or even fatal allergic reactions. The use of plant based ingredients responds to the demand from the general public for more natural and or organic products, versus chemical or synthetic ingredients.
Preferably, the composition is intentionally uncomplicated, the intent being to produce a less complex product, comprising a minimal number of ingredients. When compared to other skin care preparations, the composition of the present invention can dramatically reduce the number and amount of chemicals being applied to the skin. Furthermore, the nature of each ingredient is selected so that reasonably educated members of the general public could easily recognise, relate to, and feel comfortable with the selected ingredients. Being a less complex composition, people will more likely read the list of ingredients and be less intimidated by the basic nature of the contents. In addition, the composition has potential cost, convenience and ecological advantages of being a single-pack, non pressurized, multi-purpose product.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition consists essentially of 2-5% stearic acid, 5-10% glycerin, 5-10% grapeseed oil, 2-6% glyceryl stearate, 0.5-1% grapefruit seed extract, sufficient sodium hydroxide (<0.1%) to achieve a pH of 6.0-6.5, and water (e.g. deionized) to 100% (i.e. the balance).
All percentage amounts are by weight based on the total weight of the composition, unless stated otherwise.

Examples

Amounts listed in the Examples are expressed by weight based on the weight of the total composition. The listed formulas (although intended as indicative) are presented as the presently preferred ingredient content, accurate within plus or minus 5%.
Formulas #1 and #4 were prepared by blending, as described previously , the stated ingredients in the stated amounts. One skilled in the art can readily determine the amount of each ingredient in weight (mass) units by deciding upon the desired total weight and calculating the weight of each ingredient from the appropriate percentage listed in each Formula.

Formula #1: Cream

15%	stearic acid
20%	glycerin or diglycerin
10%	grapeseed oil
<5%	glyceryl stearate
Balance	water

Formula #4: Cream

5-10%	grapeseed oil
2-15%	stearic acid
<5%	glyceryl stearate
5-20%	glycerin/diglycerin
<2%	grapefruit seed extract
<2%	Bergamot oil
Balance	water

Formula #5: Cream

A mixture of 15 kilograms grapeseed oil, 7.0 kilograms stearic acid and 8.0 kilograms glyceryl stearate SE (SE means self-emulsifying) were heated to 70°C with good mixing using a propeller mixer to form Phase A. In a separate vessel, about 160 litres of deionized water was heated to 70°C followed by the addition, with mixing, of 15 kilograms glycerin and 2 litres of grapefruit seed extract to form Phase B. Phase A and Phase B were then mixed together at 70°C using a propeller mixer and sodium hydroxide was added in sufficient quantity to achieve a pH of 6.25. An emulsion was thereby formed. The resulting emulsion was mixed in a 200 kg capacity Silverson™ high shear mixer for 1 hour then returned to a propeller mixer and allowed to cool to 40°C. The mixer was turned off, the composition was covered and then was allowed to cool to room temperature. Once cooled to room temperature, the cream was transferred to containers for transport.
The cream of Formula #5 had the following composition:

7.5% grapeseed oil

3.5% stearic acid

4.0% glyceryl stearate

7.5% glycerin

1.0% grapefruit seed extract

Balance deionized water
While the present compositions have been described with respect to what is at present considered to be the preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that invention is not limited to the disclosed embodiments. To the contrary, the invention is intended to cover various modifications, subtractions and or substitutions included within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

Skin care composition consisting of:
20% to 85% by weight water;

2% to 15% by weight stearic acid;

5% to 20% by weight glycerin and/or diglycerin;

5% to 10% by weight grapeseed oil;

2% to 10 % by weight glyceryl stearate;

0.5% to 5% by weight grapefruit seed extract;

sodium hydroxide to adjust pH to 6.0-6.5;

optionally a perfume, a colouring agent, a UV blocker, a skin protectant, an insect repellent, a medication, a pH modifier or a combination thereof;

all weights based on total weight of the composition;

said water, stearic acid, glycerin and/or diglycerin, grapeseed oil, and further ingredients being combined to form a mixture that is a non-foaming application to allow a person shaving to see where a blade is cutting.
Skin care composition according to claim 1 for use as a shaving cream.
Skin care composition according to claim 1 for use as a shaving cream, wherein the stearic acid is present in an amount of 2% to 5% by weight, glycerin is present in an amount of 5% to 10% by weight, the grapeseed oil is present in an amount of 5% to 10% by weight, glyceryl stearate is present in an amount of 2% to 6% by weight, grapefruit seed extract is present in an amount of 0.5% to 1% by weight, sodium hydroxide is present in an amount to adjust pH to 6.0-6.5, and balance water, based on total weight of the composition.