DE202016107001U1 - Cosmetic preparation in gel form - Google Patents

Abstract

An emulsion-based cosmetic preparation in the form of a gel, comprisinga) a lipid phase comprising at least one poly (acrylate-co-siloxane) -based film-forming agent and at least one solvent, b) an aqueous phase comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent on acrylate or Polyurethane base, and an aqueous medium c) at least one emulsifier based on polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) at least one pigment.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for application in the eye area in the form of a gelatinous emulsion and to the use thereof.

Cosmetic preparations for making up the skin or the semi-mucous membranes are generally known in the form of sticks, as soft pastes or in the form of loose or pressed powders. Pens or pastes are often in anhydrous form as mixtures of vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, fats and waxes, in which a powder phase of cosmetics approved pigments, pearlescing agents and fillers is dispersed. Pressed powders often consist of mixtures of pigments, pearlescing agents and fillers which are rendered into a handleable or processable form by means of an oil-based binder or in the form of an emulsion. Cosmetic preparations in the form of an emulsion are available for various applications and in many variations from liquid to solid.

General requirements for compositions in the field of decorative cosmetics are a long shelf life of the composition, a simple application, a pleasant feeling when applied to the skin or semi-mucous membrane, a long adherence to the applied location and no smearing or migration in wrinkles.

Many known preparations have the disadvantage that they adhere only insufficiently to the applied location and can be easily transferred to materials such as dishes, cutlery, glass, textiles or skin. This results in the necessity to apply these preparations repeatedly. Since oils spread on the skin and on semi-mucous membranes and also have a different Spreitvermögen, ingredients of these preparations, in particular pigments in the Feinfältelung the skin around lips or eyes immigrate and create disturbing structures. Through the sebum of the skin and by transpiration, these effects can be provoked or strengthened. In the case of preparations applied in the area of the eye, the so-called "touch-up" additionally occurs as a problem, namely that a part of the applied mass, e.g. Eyeliner or eyeshadow migrates through the movement of the eyelids and through the action of sebum, especially in the folds of the eyelid, and thereby produce strip-like structures.

Attempts have also been made to dispense with oils, fats and waxes and to prepare aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic preparations in the form of polymer-containing dispersions which form elastic and more or less water-resistant films on the skin or on semi-mucous membranes. However, such preparations cause other problems as the films dry slowly and are not always comfortable on the skin.

It is known to use emulsions for cosmetic preparations. However, emulsions often do not provide satisfactory durability when in contact with water or endogenous fluids, such as water. Sweat or sebum.

Particularly demanding is the provision of cosmetic preparations that are applied to the eye. On the one hand, the durability requirements are particularly high here, but are difficult to fulfill due to the increased humidity around the eye. On the other hand, the area on the eye is particularly sensitive. Therefore, the provision of kohl and eyeliner preparations which are applied to the eye or to the waterline of the eye is particularly demanding; Such products require contradictory properties. Due to their hardness and low abrasion, wax-based kohl pencils are often only unpleasant and difficult to apply or, if they wear better after application, have insufficient durability and smudge resistance.

Alternatively, there are liquid compositions containing film formers. The application to the waterline, however, here causes a strong burning sensation and an unpleasant feeling when the Kajalmasse gets into the eye. Furthermore, the line applied to the eye can smear if the water resistance is insufficient and / or parts of the mass can migrate away from the application site. For example, a liquid kohl preparation applied with an applicator is known by pulling a plastic stick with the kohl mass between the closed lids so as to distribute the kohl mass on the lower and upper waterlines. Both durability and precision of the job are a problem with this product.

To overcome some of the known problems describes US 2013 017 1083 a cosmetic composition for application to keratinous tissue, which is a polyvinylalcoholstyrylpyridinium polymer and a latex film former. In order to cure the composition and thus to obtain durability UV radiation or visible light should be used. However, this is difficult to apply to the area of the eye. The compositions described are particularly intended as nail polish, in which the problem of simple, precise and pleasant applicability to the waterline does not occur.

To get a durable composition is in US 2010 011 1884 discloses a cosmetic preparation wherein the film-forming copolymers produce either a water-resistant or an oil-resistant film. There are a variety of ingredients offered to solve different problems. Specifically mentioned compositions are sunscreen products.

The object of the invention was therefore to provide a liquid preparation that is wipe-, water- and oil-resistant, and easy and pleasant to apply.

Furthermore, it was an object of the present invention to provide a preparation which is easy and pleasant to use in sensitive areas such as around the eye and remains water-, oil-, wipe-resistant and durable after application, does not burn in the eyes or irritating to the eyes, dries quickly and produces an intense permanent color. In addition, the applied mass should be easy to remove again.

These objects are achieved with a preparation as defined in the claims.

1. a) eine Lipidphase, umfassend mindestens einen Filmbildner auf Poly(acrylat-co-siloxan)basis und mindestens ein Lösemittel,
2. b) eine wässrige Phase, umfassend mindestens einen wasserlöslichen oder wasserdispergierbaren Filmbildner auf Acrylat- oder Polyurethanbasis und ein wässriges Medium,
3. c) mindestens einen auf Polyglyceryl-Fettsäureester basierenden Emulgator,
4. d) mindestens ein Pigment enthält.

According to the invention, an emulsion-based cosmetic preparation in the form of a gel is provided which

1. a) a lipid phase comprising at least one film-forming agent based on poly (acrylate-co-siloxane) and at least one solvent,
2. b) an aqueous phase comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent based on acrylate or polyurethane and an aqueous medium,
3. c) at least one emulsifier based on polyglyceryl fatty acid ester,
4. d) contains at least one pigment.

It has been found that the preparation according to the invention has an advantageous combination of properties which makes it particularly suitable for use on the eye. An advantage is that the composition is thixotropic, i. it is thin when using shear and gelatinous at rest. This allows a particularly simple application in the eye, because on the one hand not too much mass is removed, but the extracted mass can be very easy to apply because of their consistency. In addition, it was surprisingly found that the applied mass neither runs nor triturated after drying. It is smudge-proof and resistant to migration. The emulsion-based preparation according to the invention has low viscosity even at low shear forces, so that it can be applied simply and conveniently, e.g. at the waterline at the eye. After the application, the thixotropic mass solidifies again up to the initial viscosity and remains stable at the place of application. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention can be rheologically adjusted by the ratio and the type of film-forming agent so that it is in liquid form or in solid form at room temperature. The special combination of ingredients allows a quick drying and the film produced is not only water, oil and smudge resistant and extremely durable, but it forms a kind of matrix in which the other ingredients, in particular the pigments are homogeneously embedded so that they stick to the applied spot and form a well-covering even film. The film formed after application prevents migration of constituents of the preparation and ensures intensive uniform coloration, since the pigments are homogeneously distributed in the gelatinous preparation. The make-up removal offers no problems despite the good durability. The film formed after application of the preparation according to the invention can be removed again by known means, such as make-up removal pads or make-up removal wipes.

Because of these advantageous properties, the emulsion preparation according to the invention is particularly suitable for use on the eye and can be used in particular as a kohl or eyeliner.

• 1 den Viskositätsverlauf von thixotropen und rheopexen Flüssigkeiten zeigt und
• 2 und 3 ein Rheogramm für unterschiedliche Massen mit variierenden Verhältnissen von zwei Filmbildnerdispersionen A zu B zeigen (3 mit Pfeilen zur besseren Erkennung). Der Verlauf zeigt die Viskosität in Abhängigkeit der Zeit, wobei für 120 s eine Scherrate von 0,1 s^-1 verwendet wurde, dann für 30 s auf 100 s^-1 erhöht wurde und anschließend wieder auf 0,1 s^-1 reduziert wurde. Der schnelle Abfall der Viskosität auf fast 0 bei einer Scherrate von 100 s^-1, sowie die rasche Zunahme der Viskosität nach Beendigung der Scherleistung zeigen die ausgeprägte Thixotropie des Systems. Auch der Einfluss der Anteile der Komponenten auf die Viskosität ist sehr gut zu erkennen.

The drawings serve to illustrate the invention, wherein

• 1 shows the viscosity profile of thixotropic and rheopic liquids and
• 2 and 3 show a rheogram for different masses with varying ratios of two film former dispersions A to B ( 3 with arrows for better recognition). The curve shows the viscosity as a function of time, wherein a shear rate of 0.1 s ^{-1 was} used for 120 s, then increased to 100 s ^-1 for 30 s and then reduced again to 0.1 s ^-1 . The rapid drop in viscosity to almost 0 at a shear rate of 100 s ^-1 , as well as the rapid increase in viscosity upon completion of the shearing performance, show the pronounced thixotropy of the system. Also, the influence of the components of the components on the viscosity is very easy to recognize.

DEFINITIONS

By "place of application" is here understood the surface to which the preparation according to the invention is applied. The place of application is in particular the area of the eyes, e.g. the eyelids, the edge of the eye or the waterline of the eye.

As used herein, the term "gel" generally describes a disperse system consisting of at least two components wherein a solid component forms a spongy three-dimensional continuous pore system or network, these pores being filled by one or more liquids and wherein These pores also contain other ingredients, eg Pigments, can hold.

The preparation according to the invention is in the form of a thixotropic gel, i. a gel in which interactions are minimized by relatively low external shear, causing a sudden decrease in viscosity and thus a liquefaction. After completion of the shear, the material can return to the viscous initial state. The thixotropic gel may be liquid or solid in its dormant state.

The term "emulsion" as used herein describes a dispersed system of an aqueous and a lipid phase which additionally contains an emulsifier. The aqueous phase is also referred to as the water phase and contains at least water as a carrier and at least one hydrophilic film former. The lipid phase contains at least one solvent as carrier and at least one hydrophobic film former. Emulsions of the present invention may be based on percentages by weight of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. The term "emulsion" also includes microemulsions in which the disperse phase is in droplet form with diameters in the micro to nanometer range. Double emulsions such as oil-water-oil or water-oil-water emulsions are also included.

The terms "dispersed" and "dissolved" are used in the context of polymers as equivalent. Since the polymer-dispersion transitions between solutions and solutions can often not be determined, a polymer dispersion is understood to mean a composition in which the polymer is compatible with the solvent and does not settle and is therefore dissolved and / or dispersed and does not precipitate.

A "hydrophilic film former" is a polymer that is compatible with water, i. which can be dispersed or dissolved in an aqueous medium, such as water or an aqueous solvent, and forms a film after application.

A "hydrophobic film former" is a polymer which is compatible with an organic solvent and which can be dispersed or dissolved in a solvent and form a film after application.

Film formers, both hydrophilic and hydrophobic, are generally used in the form of a dispersion / solution. The quantities given for film formers in the description refer in each case to the polymer itself, not to the amount of dispersion.

Percentages, unless otherwise indicated, are in each case based on the total amount of the preparation.

The term "solvent" when used herein refers to organic solvents, e.g. are used for solution / dispersion of the hydrophobic film former and does not include water. When the amount of solvent is given in the formulation, it refers to the total amount of solvent added directly and solvent added as part of a dispersion. "Solvent" may be a solvent or a mixture of solvents.

A "volatile solvent" is one having an evaporation number of 100 or less. The volatility or evaporation number refers to the ratio of the vapor pressure of the considered solvent to the vapor pressure of diethyl ether, each measured at 20 ° C and 65 ± 5% relative humidity. The evaporation number can according to DIN 53170 be determined.

The viscosity was measured at room temperature. The term "room temperature" usually refers to a temperature of 25 ° C.

The emulsion preparation according to the invention comprises, as components essential to the invention, a lipid phase, an aqueous phase and a specific emulsifier and at least one pigment and may additionally contain further ingredients customary in cosmetics, such as plasticizers and preservatives. The components according to the invention give rise to an emulsion which exhibits thixotropic behavior. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is assumed that the interaction of the film formers used according to the invention with the specific emulsifier forms a network in which solvents and oil-soluble constituents are incorporated, as a result of which a gel is formed. Volatile solvent and water evaporate at the temperature prevailing in the application area, i. at about 30 to 35 ° C. After evaporation, a polymer film remains, which is very durable and in which the other ingredients are embedded so that they can not walk away or be smeared. This results in a matrix in which the pigments are homogeneously embedded. This results in a uniform full coloration with good opacity.

Viscosity and thixotropy of the composition are dependent on the ingredients used and their proportions. It has been found that increasing the proportion of hydrophobic film former increases the thixotropy. However, thixotropy does not occur or does not occur sufficiently without the presence of a hydrophilic film former. Hydrophobic ingredients, such as emollients, emollients, oils, which are commonly used in cosmetic compositions, may exacerbate the interaction, but may be detrimental to shelf life if contained in too high a level.

The interactions between the constituents essential to the invention are designed in such a way that the emulsion preparation according to the invention is already in contact with low shear forces, as used e.g. when applied, liquefied and thereby a thin liquid mass, which can be easily applied, supplies, which becomes gelatinous again at the applied location. This is the only reason why it can be applied as a kohl or on the moist skin around the eye without bleeding and smudging on the waterline on the eye and sticks for a long time.

By selecting the type and amount of the constituents of the emulsion preparation according to the invention, in particular the type and amount of film formers, the consistency of the emulsion can be adjusted so that it is flowable or solid. As a solid, it can be formed into a mine, which can then be used as a kohl pencil or eyeliner pen in an applicator.

Important components of the preparation according to the invention are the film formers. By "film-forming agent" is generally understood here a polymer, copolymer or a mixture thereof, which forms a film at the applied location after the application and evaporation of the water or the solvent. According to the invention, two film-forming components are used - one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic, which interact to form the thixotropy of the system and produce a smudge-resistant film at the job site. The hydrophobic film former is part of the lipid phase while the hydrophilic film former is part of the aqueous phase.

A constituent essential to the invention is the emulsifier. The choice of a suitable emulsifier is important in order to sufficiently homogenize the lipid phase and water phase of the present invention so that they remain homogeneously mixed over a broad temperature range in which the formulation must be stable. In addition, the emulsifier also contributes to the thixotropy of the preparation. His selection is therefore critical. The products must be stable at the temperature of the environment. Therefore, the temperature range essential for such products extends from -20 ° C and below to 40 ° C and above. It is also important that both the formulation and the film formed therefrom are at the temperature of the application site, i. at the eye and thus at about 31 to 35 ° C are stable.

It has been found that compounds based on polyglyceryl fatty acid esters have an excellent emulsifying effect when used in conjunction with a lipid phase and an aqueous phase. An example of an emulsifier according to the invention is a natural product which is commercially available as Emulium Mellifera and a mixture, inter alia, of polyglyceryl 6 Distearate, Jojoba ester, polyglyceryl 3 Beeswax and cetyl alcohol is. Further examples of emulsifiers suitable according to the invention are polyglyceryldifatty acid esters, in particular diesters, of saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated C 16 -C 20 -fatty acids, for example polyglyceryl distearates and polyglyceryldioleates. The following esters have proven to be suitable (with INCI names): polyglyceryl 5 Dioleate, polyglyceryl 10 Diisostearates, polyglyceryl 6 Distearates, and polyglyceryl 3 Beeswax.

The percentage by weight of the emulsifier in the total composition of the preparation according to the invention is 1 to 10% by mass, preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by mass, more preferably 2 to 5% by mass. The exact percentage by weight of the emulsifier depends on the chemical nature of the other components and that of the particular emulsifier used. The skilled person can determine the most suitable amount in simple routine tests.

If too small an amount of the emulsifier is used, no homogeneous emulsification takes place.

Another essential component of the preparation according to the invention is the lipid phase, which comprises at least one organic solvent and at least one film former dispersed or dissolved therein. This film former is also referred to as a "hydrophobic film former". The hydrophobic film former is a polymer having acrylate and siloxane moieties. It has been found that a copolymer having siloxane moieties provides a sufficiently hydrophobic film while the acrylate moieties can interact with the acrylate groups of the water-compatible film former.

The amount of hydrophobic film former has an influence on the thixotropic properties and the consistency of the preparation and is adjusted accordingly depending on the desired product. If the amount is below about 3%, a sufficiently stable film is not obtained, i. the resulting film is not friction resistant. If the proportion of hydrophobic film former is too high, it is difficult or even impossible to achieve a homogeneous mass or a homogeneous film. A suitable amount of the hydrophobic film former is in the range of about 3 to about 30% by mass, preferably 5 to 20% by mass, particularly preferably 8 to 18% by mass, in each case based on the proportion of polymer in the total mass.

The film former is generally used in the form of a solvent dispersion. Such dispersions are well known and commercially available. Typical film former dispersions have a polymer content of 30 to 60% by mass, e.g. 40% by mass, on. In order that the proportion of solvent in the finished preparation does not become too high, it is preferable to use film former dispersions which have a polymer content in the range from 40 to 60% by weight. Accordingly, a suitable amount of film former dispersion (i.e., polymer and solvent) used for a composition of the present invention is in the range of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 10 to 35% by weight.

In addition to the film former, the lipid phase contains at least one solvent which is intended to disperse and dissolve the hydrophobic film former uniformly so that when mixed with the aqueous component, the emulsifier and the pigment, a homogeneous mass is produced which can be applied well and a homogeneous Film forms. The solvent should be volatile at the temperature at the point of application, ie, on the skin, for example, so that a film can form quickly after application and then firmly adhere. Rapid drying of the formulation on the applied site also results in rapid film formation on the application site, thus avoiding bleeding. However, the boiling point must not be too low, otherwise the solvent evaporates prematurely, which impairs the shelf life, and / or evaporates too quickly, which creates an unpleasant sensation on the eye. In addition, the solvent must not irritate the mucous membrane and the eye. Suitable solvents are, for example, long-chain alkanes, such as isododecane, esters, volatile dimethicones, or a combination thereof. Well suited is a mixture of dimethicone and trisiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, or coco-caprylate or caprinate. "Volatile" here means that the solvent evaporates at the temperature at the point of application. Suitable is, for example, a solvent with an evaporation number (determined according to DIN 53170 ) of 100 or less.

The percentage by weight of the solvent in the total composition of the preparation according to the invention is from 10 to 40% by mass, preferably from 17.5 to 35% by mass, particularly preferably from 20 to 30% by mass, the proportion of solvent introduced from the film former dispersion being included. If too small an amount of the solvent is used, too little homogeneity of the hydrophobic film-forming component in the emulsion system of the present invention may result because the hydrophobic film former can not be sufficiently dispersed. If too much of the Solvent may irritate the eyes. The proportion of the solvent also varies depending on what type of emulsion (water-in-oil, oil-in-water, double emulsion or microemulsion) is to be formed.

Another essential component of the preparation according to the invention is the water phase, which comprises a film-forming agent based on poly (acrylate-co-styrene) and an aqueous medium.

The aqueous medium is the solution / dispersant for the hydrophilic film former. It can be pure water or a mixture of water with water-soluble solvents, such as alcohol. The aqueous medium preferably consists of water.

Furthermore, the water phase in the emulsion also provides for the dispersion of the other components, such as the pigments. The percentage of water depends, among other things, on the type of emulsion desired. If the proportion of the aqueous medium in the overall composition is too low, the hydrophilic film former may not be distributed sufficiently homogeneously, which may lead to inhomogeneities in the resulting film. Water is also introduced into the emulsion via the film former dispersion, which usually consists of 40 to 60% by mass of water. The mass fraction of the water in the overall composition of the present invention (including the water content of the film former dispersion) is suitably in a range of 20 to 65% by mass, preferably 30 to 60% by mass, particularly preferably 40 to 56% by mass.

A polymer based on poly (acrylate-co-styrene) is contained in the aqueous phase as a hydrophilic film former. It is dispersed in the water phase and also contributes to the gel formation of the preparation. This polymer contributes to the advantageous properties. Through its polar acrylate moiety, it can interact with the hydrophilic ingredients and hold them in the matrix formed after application. The styrene content of the polymer interacts with the hydrophobic film former and aids in matrix formation. The film-forming component from the water phase also contributes to increased wipe resistance as well as long-term stability at the point of application. Examples of suitable hydrophilic film formers are copolymers of styrene, acrylates and ammonium methacrylates, polymers and copolymers based on polyurethane or combinations thereof. Examples of suitable hydrophilic film formers are polyurethane 35 and styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer.

Hydrophilic film-forming polymers are typically available as an aqueous dispersion, e.g. with a polymer content of about 30 to 70% by mass, such as 40 to 60% by mass.

Typically, the amount of film former in the water phase will depend on what type of emulsion is needed. The hydrophilic film former participates in the gelation of the formulation and in the post-application matrix formation and contributes to the beneficial properties of the resulting film. His share of the preparation should therefore not be too low. If less than 8% by weight is used, then no thixotropic preparation may be produced. If the proportion of the hydrophilic film former is too high, the water resistance of the resulting film may be insufficient. The hydrophilic film-forming agent is suitably contained in the preparation according to the invention in a mass fraction of 3 to 30% by mass, preferably 5 to 20% by mass, particularly preferably 8 and 18% by mass.

As stated above, it is essential for the preparation according to the invention that hydrophobic and hydrophilic film-forming polymers co-operate. Only when the formulation contains all defined components, an emulsion preparation is obtained which is thixotropic and forms an adhesive film. It has been found that a preparation which contains only hydrophobic film formers or only hydrophilic film formers does not have these properties. Suitably the formulation contains hydrophobic film formers and hydrophilic film formers in a mass ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3.

Depending on the proportions of film-forming polymers, the preparation is liquid or solid at room temperature. When the preparation is subjected to shearing forces, it becomes liquid, the viscosity being reduced to very low levels, e.g. can drop to 1 mPa.s. A suitable dynamic viscosity for the final formulation is in the range of from 100 to 900 Pas, preferably 150 to 850 Pas, more preferably 200 to 600 Pas, both at 25 ° C and in the quiescent phase, i.e., in the quiescent phase. measured without shear entry. The dynamic viscosity may be determined in a manner known to those skilled in the art, e.g. with a plate-plate or cone-plate viscometer or with another device suitable for measuring dynamic viscosity. The measurement is usually carried out at room temperature, e.g. at 25 ° C. In this viscosity range, the preparation can be processed well.

After the preparation according to the invention has been applied in the region of the eye, it remains adhered to the applied location. In order to remove them, it is possible to use conventional make-up removal products known to the person skilled in the art, such as cotton swabs, cotton balls, make-up removal pads or make-up removal wipes, which may be impregnated, for example, with a surfactant solution or cream.

Another constituent essential to the invention are pigments and optionally further particulate ingredients. "Pigments" are solid colorants which do not dissolve in liquids of the preparation according to the invention and are preferably present in micronized form. Pigments which can be used are products known to the person skilled in the art and used in the field of cosmetics. Examples of pigments are carbon black, activated carbon, carbon black, titanium dioxide, talc, mica, feldspar, black iron oxide, red iron oxide, Berlin blue, metallic effect pigments, barium sulfate, bismuth vanadate, azo pigments, Prussian blue, sparkle gold or polycyclic pigments or a combination thereof. It has been found that in particular carbon black, activated carbon, and carbon black promote the thixotropy of the formulation and lead to a well-covering homogeneous order. The pigments are stabilized in the preparation and remain homogeneously mixed. The stability is achieved by the combination of the special film formers and the emulsifier.

The mass fraction of the pigments in the overall composition of the kohl preparation can be adjusted according to the desired shade of shade. The combination according to the invention keeps the pigments in the dispersion and fixes them in the matrix which forms after application of the preparation. The preparation according to the invention therefore makes it possible to add even higher pigment contents without the risk of segregation. Depending on the hiding power of the pigment (s) used in each case, the proportion can be in a range from 1 to 40% by mass, preferably from 2 to 30% by mass, particularly preferably from 3 to 20% by mass. Too small a proportion by weight of the pigments can lead to an insufficient color release or coverage of the preparation. Too high a mass fraction of pigment can lead to segregation and clumping of the pigment particles.

In addition to the essential components described above, the preparation according to the invention may also comprise further additives and auxiliaries customary in cosmetics, such as fillers, plasticizers, emollients, gloss-increasing agents, wetting agents, preservatives, and perfume.

Fillers serve to give the mass the desired structure. Examples are talc, kaolin, concrete, hectorite, montmorillonite, ceria, silica, boron nitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, silk powder and mixtures thereof, polyvalent metal soaps, non-swellable starches, natural and synthetic peelers, sand, bran products, algae derivatives, thermosets, thermoplastics , Elastomers and mixtures as well as hybrids of the listed constituents. If fillers are added to the preparation according to the invention, they are used in the usual amounts.

Furthermore, the preparation of the invention may contain at least one humectant. Suitable humectants are monohydric and polyhydric alcohols, urea derivatives or vegetable extracts. Examples of these are butylene glycol, polyhydric alcohols and their esters, such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, diethylene glycols, amyl alcohol, hexanediol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, mannitol and alditol, sucrose, Lauret- 2 benzoate, ethylhexyl sebacate, citric acid esters such as tributyl citrate, synthetic short chain esters, pentaerythrityl esters and oligopentaerythrityl esters. With such humectants in the composition, the skin moisture can be better preserved. Thus, the skin looks plumper and smoother.

If humectants are added to the composition of the invention, they can be used in the usual amount. A proportion in the range of 1 to 20% by mass, preferably 3 to 15% by mass and particularly preferably 5 to 10% by mass, based on the total preparation, is suitable.

Furthermore, the preparation according to the invention can emollient, i. Means that make the skin soft and supple, and / or wetting agents, e.g. to wet the pigments or other particulate ingredients. Examples are butylenes glycol cocoate and isocetyl stearoyl stearates, which can be used in a known amount.

Agents which increase the gloss can also be added to the preparation according to the invention. Examples of these are esters such as C12-15 alkyl benzoates, glycol dibenzoates, propylene glycol dibenzoates, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononates, which can each be used in amounts known per se.

The preparation of the invention may contain preservatives in the usual amounts. All preservatives known to those skilled in the cosmetic field are suitable here. An example of this is phenoxyethanol, which is used in a known amount.

The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of the emulsion preparation according to the invention which comprises a lipid phase comprising at least one poly (acrylate-co-siloxane) -based film-forming agent and at least one solvent, a water phase comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent on acrylate or Polyurethane base and aqueous medium, and at least one emulsifier at a temperature of 50 to 90 ° C mixed, pigment added and the mass allowed to cool.

Good results are obtained when stirring during the mixing and after addition of the pigment this is distributed with a dispersing device.

With this method, a stable emulsion is obtained, in which hydrophobic and hydrophilic film formers are in each case dissolved or dispersed in a carrier liquid, wherein the phases during mixing by use of the specific emulsifier form an emulsion in which either droplets of the lipid phase are distributed in the water phase, or droplets of the water phase in the lipid phase are distributed as a continuous phase, and then the pigments are homogeneously distributed in the emulsion.

The mixing of the phases and the addition of the pigment can be carried out in a manner known per se, using a dispersing device, for example a rotor-stator dispersing device, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Turrax or Ultra-Turrax. It has been found that mixing at a somewhat elevated temperature, from about 50 to 90 ° C, produces a homogeneous composition. The mixing temperature is preferably 60 to 80 ° C, more preferably 70 to 80 ° C. Furthermore, the optimum time for the dispersing procedure 1 to 20 Minutes, preferably 2 to 15 minutes and more preferably 5 to 10 minutes. Other additives can also be incorporated. Temperature sensitive ingredients such as fragrances or perfume are added at the end of dispersing.

After incorporation of the pigments, the composition is allowed to cool and rest to allow for gelation. For example, the mass can be poured into a mold. The mold may be the container in which the mass is sold or a mine mold for casting refills, which may then be inserted into a suitable applicator in a manner known per se. Usually for the production of mines, the mass is either poured into molds and demolded after cooling or inserted into the holding parts of a rotary mechanism or cast by a holding part directly into a corresponding mold and turned back into the rotary mechanism after cooling or in a corresponding part of a rotary mechanism poured in and left to solidify there.

In addition, the preparation according to the invention can also be poured, inserted or used in a sleeve blank for producing a pin, e.g. a kohl or eyeliner pencil.

The finished preparation is easy to process, i. can easily be filled in containers as it is flowable due to thixotropy when shear is applied. It can then be stored in a tightly closed storage vessel.

The preparation according to the invention is suitable by virtue of its properties for use in decorative cosmetics, in particular for use in the eye area, e.g. as a kohl or eyeliner. Because of its special resistance, it is particularly suitable as a kohl for applying to the waterline, but also for applying to eyelids, lips or other skin areas.

The invention further relates to a lead for a kohl or eyeliner pencil comprising the preparation according to the invention in solid form. The preparation according to the invention is in the form of a gel and can be poured into a mine. The mine can be used either in a pen or freestanding in an applicator. A pin has an outer part and a core, wherein the outer part forms a shell, which sheathed the core. The shell can, as is known in the art, made of wood, plastic or metal. In order to avoid premature evaporation of the solvent, the pen should advantageously have a sealed cap, which prevents the escape of the solvent.

The preparation according to the invention can also be in liquid form and is then preferably filled into a container or casing, from which it can be removed with an applicator and applied to the desired location. As an example, a dip-liner may be mentioned. The casing can made of metal, plastic or glass and is preferably airtight, waterproof and keeps the volatile components (water, solvents) from escaping.

Another object of the invention is thus the use of the emulsion preparation according to the invention for the preparation of a kohl or eyeliner applicator or -stick.

The preparation according to the invention is very well suited for use on the eye in the form of a stick or as a liquid preparation. It is easy to apply and dries quickly. She is not irritating and does not run. The resulting homogeneous film adheres very well, does not migrate away, does not smear and is resistant to friction. Due to the fast drying it does not come to the touch-up.

The preparation according to the invention will be described with reference to the following examples, which, however, are not intended to be exhaustive. The raw materials are, if applicable, indicated with their INCI. Their mass data (in% by mass) are based on the total mass of the preparation, unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLES:

Example 1: Kajal

The ingredients given in the following table were used to prepare a kohl formulation of the invention in the form of a pigmented oil-in-water emulsion in gel form for use on the waterline. Preparations were obtained, which were characterized in particular by an intense color delivery and durability, as well as a pleasant application.

This Kajalzubereitung was made by the oil phase was stirred into the water phase at 75 ° C. Subsequently, the pigments were added and a dispersion procedure of the mass was carried out by means of a Turrax apparatus for 5 to 10 minutes. phase Commodity description (INCI) function Mass fraction / mass% interface Polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba ester and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol emulsifier 3.26 oil isododecane 22.84 Acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer Film former hydrophobic 9.79 Aqueous water 39,15 butylene 8.16 phenoxyethanol preservation 0.48 Styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer and sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth-12-sulfate Film former hydrophilic 9.79 disperse Carbon black pigment 6.53 total 100.00 From that pigment 6.53 oil phase 35.89 water phase 57.58

Example 2: Viscosity Measurements

The dynamic viscosity of the preparation according to the invention was determined using a rheometer (RheolabQC from Anton Paar) according to DIN 54453.

Some examples of the shear and the viscosity profile of the kohlaer compositions according to the invention with different ratios of the film former in the aqueous phase (B) to the film former of the oil phase (A) are described in 2 shown.

The curve shows the viscosity as a function of time, wherein a shear rate of 0.1 s ^{-1 was} used for 120 s, then increased to 100 s ^-1 for 30 s and then reduced again to 0.1 s ^-1 .

The rapid drop of the viscosity to almost 0 at a shear rate of only 100 s ^-1 , as well as the rapid increase in viscosity after completion of the shearing performance show the strong thixotropy of the system. Also, the influence of the viscosity is very good to recognize by choosing the ratios of the components to each other.

LIST OF REFERENCE NUMBERS

reference numeral importance 1 shear phase 2 dormancy 3 rheopex 4 partially rheopex 5 thixotropic 6 partially thixotropic

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• US 20130171083 [0009]
• US 20100111884 [0010]

Claims (11)

An emulsion-based cosmetic preparation in the form of a gel comprising a) a lipid phase comprising at least one film-forming agent based on poly (acrylate-co-siloxane) and at least one solvent, b) an aqueous phase comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent based on acrylate or polyurethane, and an aqueous medium c) at least one based on polyglyceryl fatty acid ester emulsifier d) at least one pigment. Cosmetic preparation after Claim 1 characterized in that the emulsifier is Emulium Mellifera, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5-dioleate, a polyglyceryl-6 distearate and / or polyglyceryl-3 beeswax containing blend, or a combination thereof. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 or 2 , characterized in that the solvent of the lipid phase is a volatile hydrocarbon, a volatile dimethicone, a mixture of dimethicone and trisiloxane, or a combination thereof. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that the film former in the water phase is a styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer or polyurethane-35. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 4 , characterized in that the film former in the lipid phase is acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 5 , characterized in that hydrophobic and hydrophilic film-forming agents in a ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 are included. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 6 , characterized in that the pigment is carbon black, activated carbon, carbon black, black iron oxide or a combination thereof. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 7 , characterized in that it additionally contains at least one humectant and / or at least one preservative and / or at least one Dufttstoff. Cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 8th , characterized in that the dynamic viscosity between 100 and 900 Pas, preferably between 150 and 850 Pas, more preferably between 200 and 600 Pas. Mine for a kohl pencil or eyeliner pencil comprising a cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 9 in solid form. Use of a cosmetic preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 9 for making a kohl or eyeliner.

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