DE20019871U1 - Hair treatment agents - Google Patents

Description

A-40/00-U

Hair treatment products

The present invention relates to a hair care product in the form of an aqueous emulsion or dispersion with improved hair conditioning and galenic properties.

It has been known for decades that hair conditioning products of various kinds can be used. They usually contain cationic active ingredients, especially quaternary long-chain ammonium compounds, and/or polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms and are used in particular as solutions, oil-in-water emulsions, gels or lotions, which can also be used as aerosols or pump sprays.

Corresponding compositions, which either remain in the hair after application or can be washed out, are described, for example, in the monograph by K. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, (Hüthig Buch Verlag, 1989) on pages 722 to 781 under the keyword "hair after-treatment products".

Despite their diversity, these products still have room for improvement in terms of their application properties.

It has now been found, and this is the subject of the present invention, that an optimal conditioning hair treatment agent consists of an aqueous emulsion or dispersion which

(a) 1 to 25% by weight of at least one oily or fatty substance;

b) 0.1 to 10 wt.% of at least one quaternized polydimethyl or polydiethylamino Ca-Cs-alkyl methacrylate homopolymer;

c) 0.25 to 5% by weight of at least one long-chain hair conditioning ammonium compound and/or a cationic polymer different from component (b),

contains.

This product not only gives the hair shine, fullness and volume, a full grip, resilience and improved wet and dry combability, but also does not have any of the stickiness or hygroscopicity on the hair that is otherwise often found with such products.

In addition, this emulsion or dispersion is exceptionally homogeneous and viscosity-stable up to 50 ^° C; it can also be produced at normal temperature by simply stirring the components together without the otherwise obligatory addition of a W/O or O/W emulsifier.

The preferred proportion of quaternized polydimethyl or polydiethylamino-C2-C3-alkyl methacrylate is 0.25 to 5, in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, calculated on the total composition.

Such polydimethyl- or polydiethylaminoethyl- or -aminopropyl methacrylates are obtained by polymerization of the corresponding monomers and are also available on the market, e.g. as a 50% dispersion in organic solvents, e.g. liquid fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohols.
Particularly preferred is the use of a dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate homopolymer quaternized with methyl chloride or dimethyl or diethyl sulfate as a 40 to 60% dispersion in a liquid 1,2-propanediol di-C ₆ -C ₁₂ fatty acid ester such as 1 ^-propanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate.

The use of this compound in hair care products is basically known from WO 99/26592 A1.

However, there is no reference to the specific compositions according to the invention and their special effects. ^:

As already mentioned, these compositions are exceptionally viscosity stable up to temperatures of 50 ^° C.

The viscosity range of the agent is about 10,000 to 200,000 mPa.s at 20 ⁰ C (Brookfield RVT; spindle no. 5 or 6), preferably about 15,000 to 150,000 mPa.s, in particular about 20,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, measured in each case at 20 ⁰ C.

The proportion of the oil phase, i.e. the liquid oily or fatty substance, in the compositions according to the invention is 1 to 25, preferably about 2.5 to 15, in particular about 3 to 10 wt.% of the total composition.

Liquid fats and oils are those with a maximum melting point of about 3O ⁰ C, preferably about 25 °C.

Suitable fats and oils are in particular natural oils such as avocado oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sperm oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, purcellin oil (ceteary octanoate) or olive or soybean oil, as well as other mono-, di- and triglycerides, lanolin and its derivatives, as well as mineral oils such as paraffin oil and Vaseline.

Synthetic oils and waxes include silicone oils, polyethylene glycols,

Other suitable hydrophobic components are in particular fatty acid esters such as ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl myristate, palmitate, stearate, laurate, oleate and isostearate, decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, decyl stearate, dibutyl adipate, oleyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, tristearyl citrate, myristyl myristate, cetyl propionate, oleyl erucate, polyethylene glycol and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, etc.

Other suitable substances are fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, decyl and lauryl alcohol and natural mixtures thereof such as coconut fatty alcohol, which can also be ethoxylated.

As already stated, the presence of emulsifiers is not absolutely necessary for the preparation of the emulsion or dispersion according to the invention.
However, if desired, surface-active substances, particularly non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, may be added.
Such non-ionic surfactants include, for example, fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers.
: ::" .·:::: : ^# ··: :": : .. :..: .:.

Particularly suitable C-io-C^ fatty alcohol ethers are the alkyl polyglycol ethers known by the trivial names "Laureth", "Myristeth", "Oleth", "Ceteth", "Deceth", "Steareth", "Trideceth" and "Ceteareth" according to the CTFA nomenclature with the addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g. "Laureth-16" and "Trideceth-6".
The average degree of ethoxylation is between about 2.5 and about 25, preferably about 5 and about 20.

Other suitable non-ionic surfactants are compounds from the class of
Alkylpolyglucosides with the general formula

RO-(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n -Z _x ,

wherein R is an alkyl group having 8 to 20, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, Z _{x is} a saccharide residue having 5 to 6 carbon atoms, n is a number from 0 to 10, and &khgr;
a number between 1 and 5, preferably 1.1 to 2.5.
Other non-ionic surfactants that can also be used are, for example, the various sorbitan esters such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic acid esters, fatty acid polyglycol esters or mixed condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, such as those sold under the trade name "Pluronics ^R ".

Other non-ionic surfactants that can be used are amine oxides.

Such amine oxides have long been part of the state of the art, for example Ci ₂ -Ci8~alkyldimethylamine oxides such as lauryldimethylamine oxide, C^-Cis-alkylamidopropyl or ethylamine oxides, Ci2-Ci ₈ -alkyldi(hydroxyethyl) or -(hydroxypropyl)amine oxides, or also amine oxides with ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups in the alkyl chain. ^: ·

Suitable amine oxides are available, for example, under the names “Ammonyx®”,
"Aromox®", or "Genaminox®" in the trade.

Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are in particular the various known betaines such as fatty acid amidoalkylbetaines and sulfobetaines, for example laurylhydroxysulfobetaine; long-chain alkylamino acids such as cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoaminopropionate and acetate have also proven to be suitable.
In some cases, betaines can have the structure

' _{HCH 2} -CH ₂ -OH

f ³ I

RN^(CH ₂ J _n -COO ⁹ and RCN-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -1^-CH ₂ COO ⁹

^: I . II

_CH3OHH

where R is a Ca-Ci ₈ alkyl group and η is 1 to 3,
Sulfobetaines of the structure

_CH3

R-N®-(CH ₂ J _n -SO ₃ ⁹
_CH3

- ' 1 ■ ■

where R is a Ce-Cie alkyl group and η is 1 to 3;

and amidoalkylbetaines of the structure

_CH3

R—C — N — (CH ₂ J _n -N®-CH ₂ -COO ⁹

0&EEacgr; CH ₃ : .

where R is a Ca-Cie alkyl group and η is 1 to 3.

Preferred are fatty acid amidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocoamidopropylbetaine, and cocoamphoacetate and propionate, in particular their sodium salts.
Particularly preferred are mixtures of cocoamidopropyl betaine and cocoamphoacetate, in particular in a weight ratio of 3:1 to 1:3, especially 2:1 to 1:1. >

The third obligatory component of the hair treatment agent according to the invention is at least one hair-conditioning long-chain quaternary ammonium compound and/or a cationic polymer, which of course differs from the likewise obligatory cationic polymer, the quaternized homopolymer of a dimethyl- or diethylamino^-Ca-alkyl methacrylate.

Suitable hair conditioning long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds, which can be used alone or in admixture with one another, are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldiethylammonium chloride, trimethylcetylammonium bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride, benzyltetradecyldimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldihydrogenated tallow ammonium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, tris-(oligooxyethyl)alkylammonium phosphate, cetylpyridinium chloride, etc.

The quaternary ammonium salts disclosed in EP-A 472 107 are also well suited.

Other suitable long-chain ammonium compounds are esterquats of the general formula (I)

^R1
[ R ¹ — CO-[EO]-OCH ₂ CH -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CH ₂ O -[EO] - COR ² ] Y" :

i ,

in which R ¹ and R ² represent an optionally hydroxy-substituted C ₈ -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl group, R ³ and R ⁴ represent a Ci-C ₃ alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CH ₂ -O-[EO] _Z H and x, y and ζ represent O to 5 and Y" represents an anion.

A particularly preferred compound of formula I is within the scope of the invention
one in which the radicals R ¹ and R ² each represent an oleyl group or a C^-C-ie-alkyl group,
the residue R ³ is a methyl group and the residue R ⁴ is a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-[EO] ₂ -H
mean.

The anion Y" is preferably a halide such as Cl" or Br", a lower alkyl sulfate, e.g. methosulfate and ethosulfate, or an alkyl phosphate, but of course other radicals can also be used.

These compounds are known per se and are sold under the trade names "Schercoquat ^R ", "Dehyquart ^R F30" and "Tetranyl ^R ".

The use of these "esterquats" in hair care products is known per se and is described, for example, in WO-A 93/10748, WO-A 92/06899 and WO-A 94/16677.

Amidoquats of the general formula (II) are also suitable

^R3

R ¹ -C-N-CH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -NCR*

■ J ; .R- ho

in which R ¹ and R ² each represent an optionally hydroxy-substituted C8-C22-alkyl
or alkenyl group, R ³ and R ⁴ represent a CrC ₃ alkyl group or a group-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-[EO] _x -H,
and &khgr; stands for O to 5, and T stands for an anion. ;,

Of course, mixtures of the various quaternary ammonium compounds can also be used.

Instead of or in addition to the hair conditioning long-chain ammonium compounds, hair conditioning cationic polymers can also be used.

Preferred conditioning cationic polymers are the well-known quaternary cellulose derivatives of the type "Polymer JR" as well as quaternized homo- and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, as sold under the trade name "Merquat®", quaternary vinylpyrrolidone copolymers,

in particular-,mrt· Di^HiyJacnjnoalkyl(rfsth.)3eiVtates&, such as: those sold under the name : : :*' ·* '· '· '· ·■ : '··: : : : : *· ^: .·.

·*·· α-40/00

"Gafquat®", copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazolinium methochloride, which are sold under the trade name "Luviquat®", polyamino-polyamide derivatives, for example copolymers of adipic acid-dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine, as sold under the name "Cartaretine® F", as well as bisquaternary long-chain ammonium compounds of the urea structure described in US Pat. No. 4,157,388, which are available under the trade name "Mirapol® A 15".
In this context, reference is also made to the cationic polymers mentioned in DE-OSs 25 21 960, 28 11 010, 30 44 738 and 32 17 059 as well as the products described in EP-A 337 354 on pages 3 to 7. Mixtures of different cationic polymers can also be used.
The cationic polymers also include the quaternization products of graft polymers of organopolysiloxanes and polyethyloxazolines described in EP-A 524 612 and EP-A 640 643.

The proportion of these hair conditioning substances is about 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.25 to 7.5, in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of the total composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain other polymers, in particular nonionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic.
These polymers are known to those skilled in the art and are available on the market.

The hair treatment agent according to the invention can contain as a further component at least one compound selected from the group 1-methoxypropanol(-2), 1-ethoxypropanol(-2), diethylene glycol monomethyl or ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl or ethyl ether, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, phenylethyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and/or cinnamyl alcohol, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 25, in particular 1 to 20, especially 2.5 to 15 wt. %, calculated on the total composition of the agent.

Preferred compounds from this group are ethoxydiglycol and benzyloxyethanol.

-9-

In principle, water-soluble ingredients are contained in the water phase and water-insoluble ingredients are contained in the oil or fat phase of the dispersion or emulsion according to the invention, although borderline cases can of course also occur.

Another possible component in these agents is urea, preferably in an amount of about 1 to 10, in particular about 2.5 to 7.5% by weight of the agent according to the invention.

In addition to the essential ingredients, the agents according to the invention can also contain other conditioning water-soluble protein hydrolysates and polypeptides, e.g. keratin hydrolysates, collagen hydrolysates of the "Nutrilan®" type or elastin hydrolysates and, in particular, vegetable, optionally cationized protein hydrolysates, e.g. "Gluadin ^R ".

Furthermore, all ingredients commonly found in such compositions may be present.

Examples of such substances include complexing agents, dyes, preservatives,

pH regulators, viscosity regulators such as inorganic salts, fragrances, pearlescent agents, thickeners, humectants, cholesterols such as lecithin and its derivatives, etc.

A list of such additives can also be found in Schrader, I.e., on p.695

Finally, known polysiloxanes can also be used as conditioning agents in the hair care emulsions and dispersions according to the invention, preferably in the oil or fat phase. The preferred proportion of these is between about 0.5 and about 5, in particular 1 to 3% by weight of the total composition.

Both highly volatile and non-volatile cyclic or linear polysiloxanes are suitable, for example the silicone oils known under the trivial names "dimethicone" or "phenyldimethicone" and "cyclomethicone", as well as, for example, the silicone derivatives described in EP-A 398 177, which

-10-

in combination with alkyl polyglucosides in liquid detergent compositions.

Another possible component in the agents according to the invention are plant extracts in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10, preferably 0.1 to 7.5, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight, calculated as the dry residue thereof based on the total amount of the agent, which are preferably present in the aqueous phase of the emulsion or dispersion according to the invention.

Suitable, known aqueous (e.g. steam distilled), alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic plant extracts are in particular extracts of leaves, fruits, flowers, roots, bark or stems of aloe, pineapple, artichokes, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, henbane, birch, nettles, echinacea, ivy, angelica, gentian, ferns, spruce needles, cinquefoil, ginseng, broom, oats, rose hips, witch hazel, hay flowers, elderberry, hops, coltsfoot, currants, camomile, carrots, chestnuts, clover, burdock roots, coconut, corn, linden blossom, lily of the valley, seaweed, lemon balm, mistletoe, passion flowers, ratanhia, marigolds, rosemary, horse chestnuts, hawthorn, sage, horsetail, yarrow, primroses, dead nettles, Thyme, walnuts, grape leaves, hawthorn, etc.

Suitable commercial products include the various “Extrapone ^R ,”

„Herbasol ^R Sedaplant ^R „ and „Hexaplant ^R „. Extracts and their production are

also described in „Hagers Handbuch der pharmaceutical Praxis,,, 4th ed.

A further effect-enhancing component in the compositions according to the invention are mono- and oligosaccharides in an amount between about 0.05 and 5, in particular 0.1 to 4, preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of the total composition.

Preferred substances are glucose, sucrose, fructose, maltose, lactose, cellobiose and especially fucose.

The aqueous dispersions or emulsions according to the invention are prepared, as already mentioned, by simply stirring together the oil or the fatty substance with the remaining components of the composition without additional heating and then adding the quaternized dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl or dipropyl methacrylate homopolymer, whereby no additional heating is required either.
It will contain a viscosity-stable homogeneous product.

Some examples of compositions according to the invention are given below.

Compositions No.

1 2 3 4 5 PCL Liquid ⁴ · ⁰ 5.0. 6.0 4.0 3.5 Laurylpyrrolidone 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Octylmethoxylcinnamate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Parfumö! 0.4 ' °' ⁴ 0.4 0.4 0.4 Wheat bran lipids, oil soluble 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.4 0.4 T^-propanediol dicapryiate/dicaprate .1.0 1.5 0.8 1.0 1.5 Trideceth-6 0.2 0.3 - 0.2 - Laureth-12 - 0.5 - , 0.3 ;. Lecithins 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 1,2-Propanediol - '■■ 0.4 - - '■ Polyquaternium-37 1.0 1.2 0.8 1.0 1.5 Dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium
methosulfat ■ 1.6 Cetrimonium chloride - 1.0 -■ - - Lauryl trimethyl ammonium chloride 1.0 - - - Polyquaternium-7 - - - 1.0 Polyquaternium-6 - ■ - - .- 0.5 Water ad 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
% by weight Brookfield viscosity at 20 ⁰ C
(Spindle No.5) 26000 29000 15000
· · 16000 80000
mPa-s

-12-

The ingredients were mixed with water while stirring and then the polyquaternium-37 dispersed in 1,2-propanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate and trideceth-6 or laureth-12 was added at room temperature while stirring.

A fine, white, very homogeneous dispersion was obtained, the viscosity of which did not change after storage for six months at 40 ^° C.

The compositions are ideal as hair treatments that can either be left in the hair or rinsed out after use.

Claims (5)

1. Hair treatment composition based on an aqueous emulsion or dispersion, containing (a) 1 to 25% by weight of at least one liquid oily or fatty substance; b) 0.1 to 10 wt.% of at least one quaternized polydimethyl or polydiethylamino C ₂ -C ₃ alkyl methacrylate homopolymer; c) 0.25 to 5% by weight of at least one long-chain hair conditioning quaternary ammonium compound and/or of a cationic polymer different from component (b), each calculated based on the total composition of the agent. 2. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, containing as component (b) 0.25 to 5 wt. % quaternized polydimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. 3. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1 and/or claim 2, containing component b) as a 40 to 60 percent dispersion in a liquid 1,2-propanediol di-C ₆ -C ₁₂ fatty acid ester. 4. Hair treatment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 3, which has a Brookfield viscosity between 10,000 and 200,000 mPas at 20°C. 5. Hair treatment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, containing 0.05 to 5% by weight, calculated on the total composition, of at least one mono- and/or oligosaccharide.