DE102013225789A1 - Method and kit for straightening and dyeing hair with improved gray coverage and improved wash resistance - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a process for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G), B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O) C) optionally treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K) D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F) wherein - the smoothing agent (G) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically tolerable salts, - the oxidizing agent ( O) contains hydrogen peroxide and - the colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye. Another object of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit) containing a smoothing agent (G), an oxidizing agent (O), optionally a conditioning agent (K) and a colorant (F).

Description

The present application is a process for the treatment of hair, in particular of African hair, which makes it possible to smooth the hair without damage and to dye. Here, the color intensity and the gray coverage of the dyeings are to be improved. A further subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit) which, packaged separately from one another, contains a smoothing agent, an oxidizing agent and a colorant. Optionally, this multi-component packaging unit may additionally contain a conditioning agent. The smoothing agent contains at least one reducing agent, the oxidizing agent contains hydrogen peroxide, and the coloring agent contains at least one substantive acid dye.

The change in shape and color of keratinic fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. In this way, the appearance of the hair can be adapted to both current fashion trends as well as the individual desires of each person. The coloring, especially the covering of graying hair, is aimed at by people of all cultures. In addition, people from cultures with naturally frizzy hair are often looking for ways to straighten their hair.

Hair straighteners are used to decongest curly hair. The hair straighteners must meet a number of minimum requirements: The funds must - especially for hair with very strong Krause, as is often the case with African hair - effective effect smoothing of highly curled hair effect, the smoothing should be independent of the hair condition , Furthermore, the funds must be stable in temperature, should have an optimal consistency, do not cause skin irritation and be easily washed out again. In addition, the agents should not cause excessive damage to the hair.

One possible method of smoothing very curly hair is to treat the hair with perming preparations. The hair shaping with perming agents comprises as a first step a reduction step in which a reducing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair. As reducing agents usually cysteic acid or its derivatives, or also thioglycolic acid glycerol esters, sulfites, thiolactic acid, cysteine or cysteamine are used. In this reduction step, the cystine disulfide bridges contained in the hair are split, and the hair is brought into a plastic state. After the action of the reducing agent, the hair which is now easily deformable can be smoothed. The rejoining of the disulfide bridges in the smoothed hair takes place by the application of an oxidizing agent. As the oxidizing agent usually hydrogen peroxide is used. This type of hair straightening is associated with a not insignificant amount of hair damage.

To change the hair color, the skilled person knows various dyeing systems depending on the requirements of the dyeing. For permanent, intense colorations with good fastness properties and good gray coverage usually oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide among themselves form the actual dyes. Oxidative dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting staining results but are also associated with some degree of hair damage. The use of oxidation colorants in combined smoothing dyeing processes would be associated with an accumulation of damage, for which reason the use of oxidation colorants in smoothing dyeing processes is not indicated.

Through the use of direct dyes, the hair color can be changed temporarily. In this case, already formed dyes diffuse from the colorant into the hair fiber. In comparison to the oxidative hair dyeing, the dyeings obtained with substantive dyes have a lower durability and faster leachability. In particular, the gray covers, which can be obtained with substantive dyes, are usually in need of improvement. Of advantage, however, is the lower hair damage of the dyeing with substantive dyes. If excessive hair damage is to be avoided, the use of substantive dyes in combined smoothing dyeing processes is therefore the dyeing system of choice, despite the non-optimal fastness properties.

Methods for the combined smoothing and dyeing of hair have already been described in the prior art. For example, disclosed WO 2013/098335 A2 a method for smoothing and dyeing keratin fibers in which bases and dyes are used simultaneously on the fibers. From however, methods and means known in the art are often associated with high to very high hair damage.

The object of the present invention was to provide a low-damage process for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers. By using this method, especially very curly hairs - such as African hair - should be effectively smoothed and dyed. The hair should be damaged as little as possible by this procedure. In addition, the color intensities, the washing fastness and the gray coverings of the dyeings should also be improved.

It has now been found that keratinic fibers with very strong curls effectively smooth and stain intensively when subjected to a special process involving reductive smoothing and oxidative fixation, followed by staining with direct-acting acid dyes. Surprisingly, dyeings with very good gray coverings and wash resistance could also be obtained with this process.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G),
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• C) gegebenenfalls Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Konditioniermittel (K),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält und – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält.

A first aspect of the present invention is a method of smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G),
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• C) optionally treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - the smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and - the Colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

Keratinic fibers, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair. Although the compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for lightening and dyeing keratin fibers, in principle, there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.

Characteristic of the process according to the invention is the use of smoothing agent (G), oxidizing agent (O), optionally conditioning agent (K) and coloring agent (F). These agents are various cosmetic agents containing all essential ingredients each in a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carrier may be a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. For example, the agents (G), (O), optional (K) and (F) each in the form of a cream, an emulsion, a gel or in the form of a surfactant-containing foaming solution, such as a shampoo, a Schaumaerosols, a foam formulation or in the form of another preparation suitable for use on the hair to which keratinic fibers are applied.

The application of the smoothing agent (G) in the process according to the invention in step A) first and then followed by the use of the oxidizing agent (O) in step B), and the colorant (F) in step D). The use of the conditioning agent (K) in step C) is optional, therefore step C) may also be omitted.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G),
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält und – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält.

Also according to the invention is a method for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G),
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - the smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and - the Colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

In principle there is no time limitation for the sequence of steps A), B), and D). If a conditioner is used, there is no time limitation for the sequence of steps A), B), C) and D). However, it has been found that the color intensity, the wash fastness and the gray coverage of the dyeings obtainable by this process are the better the closer these process steps are to one another. Here, the best results were obtained when between the treatment of the keratin fibers with the smoothing agent (G) in step A), the fixation with the oxidizing agent (O) in step B), the optional conditioning with the conditioning agent (K) in step C) and finally the final dyeing step with the colorant (F) in step D) is a time interval of in each case a maximum of 6 hours, preferably of a maximum of 4 hours, more preferably of a maximum of 2 hours and particularly preferably of a maximum of 1 hour.

Thus, it is very particularly preferred if the individual steps of the method are carried out directly after one another without a great time delay, so that the combined smoothing and dyeing process can be completed within one day, preferably within a few hours.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G),
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält, – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält und – zwischen den Schritten A) und B), sowie B) und D) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

A further preferred embodiment is therefore a method for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G),
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - the smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide, - Colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye and - between steps A) and B), and B) and D) in each case a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and particularly preferably at most 1 Hour is.

The use of the conditioner (K) is optional. If the application of the conditioning agent (K) in step C) is dispensed with, the entire application process can be shortened and thus made more comfortable for the user.

However, by using the conditioner (K) in step C) after fixation with the oxidizing agent (O) in step B) and before staining with the dye (F) in step (D), further minimization of hair damage in the smoothness Dyeing process can be achieved. In addition, it has surprisingly been found that the use of the conditioning agent (K) at this point of the process not only improves the hair damage, but also the color intensity in the subsequent dyeing process and also the gray covers and wash fastness of available with the substantive acid dyes dyeings. It is therefore very particularly preferred to use the conditioning step with the conditioning agent (K) in step C) of the process.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G),
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• C) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Konditioniermittel (K),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält und – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält.

According to the invention, therefore, a method for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers is particularly preferred, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G),
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• C) treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - The smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - contains the oxidizing agent (O) hydrogen peroxide and - the colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G),
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• C) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Konditioniermittel (K),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält, – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält und – zwischen den Schritten A) und B), sowie B) und C), sowie C) und D) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

Very particularly preferred according to the invention is a method for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G),
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• C) treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - the smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide, - Colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye and - between the steps A) and B), and B) and C), and C) and D) in each case a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 hour.

In one embodiment of the invention, the smoothing agent (G) is applied to the keratinic fibers in step A) and rinsed after a contact time, which can last from 30 seconds to 45 minutes.

The smoothing of the keratin fibers can be carried out during the action of the smoothing agent (G) on the keratin fibers or shortly after the washing out of the smoothing agent (G). Here, the smoothing is preferably mechanically, for example by smoothing the keratin fibers with a comb or a brush. The smoothing can also be carried out with the aid of a smoothing iron, but the associated heat action can additionally damage the keratin fibers and is therefore not preferred.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G) und Glätten der Fasern,
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• C) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Konditioniermittel (K),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält, – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält und – zwischen den Schritten A) und B), sowie B) und C), sowie C) und D) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

According to the invention, a method for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G) and smoothing the fibers,
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• C) treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - the smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide, - Colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye and - between the steps A) and B), and B) and C), and C) and D) in each case a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 hour.

After rinsing out the smoothing agent (G), the fixation is then carried out in the subsequent step B) by application of the oxidizing agent (O). After a reaction time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes, the oxidizing agent (O) is rinsed out of the hair again in a preferred embodiment, before the application of the next process agent on the keratin fibers. If a conditioning agent (K) is used, after the rinsing out of the oxidizing agent (O), the application of the Konditerioniermittels (K). If no conditioning agent (K) is used, the application of the colorant (F) takes place following the rinsing out of the oxidizing agent (O).

The conditioner (K) optionally applicable as step C) is applied to the keratin fibers for a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes and then rinsed. Finally, in the last step D), the application of the colorant (F) takes place for a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes. Thereafter, the colorant (F) is rinsed out.

Each rinsing process can be done either only with water or with water with the help of a shampoo. It is preferred if each rinsing out takes place only with water.

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• C1) Applikation eines Konditioniermittels (K) auf die Fasern,
• C2) Einwirkenlassen des Konditioniermittels (K) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• C3) Ausspülen des Konditioniermittels (K),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F).

Therefore, a process according to the invention which comprises the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• C1) application of a conditioning agent (K) to the fibers,
• C2) exposing the conditioning agent (K) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• C3) rinsing out the conditioning agent (K),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• D3) Rinse the stain (F).

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• C1) Applikation eines Konditioniermittels (K) auf die Fasern,
• C2) Einwirkenlassen des Konditioniermittels (K) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• C3) Ausspülen des Konditioniermittels (K),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F), wobei – zwischen den Schritten A3) und B1), sowie B3) und C1), sowie C3) und D1) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

Therefore, a process according to the invention which comprises the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• C1) application of a conditioning agent (K) to the fibers,
• C2) exposing the conditioning agent (K) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• C3) rinsing out the conditioning agent (K),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• D3) rinsing out of the colorant (F), wherein - between steps A3) and B1), and B3) and C1), and C3) and D1) each have a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 hour.

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• C1) Applikation eines Konditioniermittels (K) auf die Fasern,
• C2) Einwirkenlassen des Konditioniermittels (K) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• C3) Ausspülen des Konditioniermittels (K),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F), wobei – zwischen den Schritten A3) und B1), sowie B3) und C1), sowie C3) und D1) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt, und – die Keratinfasern im Schritt A2) und/oder direkt nach Schritt A3) geglättet werden.

Therefore, a process according to the invention which comprises the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• C1) application of a conditioning agent (K) to the fibers,
• C2) exposing the conditioning agent (K) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• C3) rinsing out the conditioning agent (K),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• D3) rinsing out of the colorant (F), wherein - between steps A3) and B1), and B3) and C1), and C3) and D1) each have a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 hour, and - the keratin fibers in step A2) and / or directly after step A3) are smoothed.

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F).

According to the invention, a process further comprises the following steps in the order given

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• D3) Rinse the stain (F).

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F), wobei – zwischen den Schritten A3) und B1), sowie B3) und D1) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

Therefore, a process according to the invention which comprises the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• D3) rinsing out the colorant (F), wherein - between steps A3) and B1), and B3) and D1) each have a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 Hour is.

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F), wobei – zwischen den Schritten A3) und B1), sowie B3) und D1) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt, und – die Keratinfasern in Schritt A2) und/oder direkt nach Schritt A3) geglättet werden.

Particular preference is furthermore given to a process according to the invention comprising the following steps in the order given

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes,
• D3) rinsing out the colorant (F), wherein - between steps A3) and B1), and B3) and D1) each have a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 Hour, and - the keratin fibers in step A2) and / or directly after step A3) are smoothed.

When the keratin fibers are smoothened in step A2), the smoothing takes place while the smoothing agent (G) acts on the keratin fibers, wherein the smoothing can take place, for example, by smoothing the keratin fibers with a comb.

By flattening the keratin fibers directly after step A3), it is understood that the keratin fibers are flattened after flushing out the flattening agent in step A3) and before the application of the oxidizing agent in step B1), the flattening being achieved, for example, by flattening the keratin fibers a comb can be done.

In order to obtain the optimum dyeing results and the best fastness properties, it has proved to be particularly advantageous if the various agents (G), (O), (K) and (D) remain on the keratin fibers for certain periods of time.

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 20 bis 30 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 20 bis 30 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• C1) Applikation eines Konditioniermittels (K) auf die Fasern,
• C2) Einwirkenlassen des Konditioniermittels (K) für einen Zeitraum von 5 bis 15 Minuten,
• C3) Ausspülen des Konditioniermittels (K),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 30 bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F), wobei – zwischen den Schritten A3) und B1), sowie B3) und C1), sowie C3) und D1) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

Therefore, a process according to the invention which comprises the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 20 to 30 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) for a period of 20 to 30 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• C1) application of a conditioning agent (K) to the fibers,
• C2) exposing the conditioning agent (K) to a period of 5 to 15 minutes,
• C3) rinsing out the conditioning agent (K),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 to 45 minutes,
• D3) rinsing out the colorant (F), wherein - between the steps A3) and B1), and B3) and C1), and C3) and D1) each have a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and particularly preferably at most 1 hour ,

• A1) Applikation eines Glättungsmittels (G) auf die Fasern,
• A2) Einwirkenlassen des Glättungsmittels (G) für einen Zeitraum von 25 bis 30 Minuten,
• A3) Ausspülen des Glättungsmittels (G),
• B1) Applikation eines Oxidationsmittels (O) auf die Fasern
• B2) Einwirkenlassen des Oxidationsmittels (O) für einen Zeitraum von 25 bis 30 Minuten,
• B3) Ausspülen des Oxidationsmittels (O),
• C1) Applikation eines Konditioniermittels (K) auf die Fasern,
• C2) Einwirkenlassen des Konditioniermittels (K) für einen Zeitraum von 10 bis 15 Minuten,
• C3) Ausspülen des Konditioniermittels (K),
• D1) Applikation des Färbmittels (F) auf die Fasern,
• D2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels (F) für einen Zeitraum von 40 bis 45 Minuten,
• D3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels (F), wobei – zwischen den Schritten A3) und B1), sowie B3) und C1), sowie C3) und D1) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

Very particular preference is therefore given to a method according to the invention, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers,
• A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 25 to 30 minutes,
• A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G),
• B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers
• B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 25 to 30 minutes,
• B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O),
• C1) application of a conditioning agent (K) to the fibers,
• C2) exposing the conditioning agent (K) to a period of 10 to 15 minutes,
• C3) rinsing out the conditioning agent (K),
• D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers,
• D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 40 to 45 minutes,
• D3) rinsing out of the colorant (F), wherein - between steps A3) and B1), and B3) and C1), and C3) and D1) each have a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and more preferably at most 1 hour.

For the application of the method according to the invention, it is particularly convenient for the user and therefore preferred if he successively applies the means provided for him in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (i.e., in the form of a kit).

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglycolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält und
• – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält.

A second subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit) comprising at least three separately prepared cosmetic products (G), (O) and (F), wherein

• The smoothing agent (G) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycollic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts,
• - The oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and
• - The colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

Particularly preferred in the process according to the invention is the use of a conditioning agent (K) before the dyeing step with the colorant (F). In order to enable the user to carry out this particularly preferred method, it is therefore preferred to provide him with a multi-component packaging unit (kit) which contains at least 4 separately formulated cosmetic compositions (G), (O), (K) and (F).

In order to achieve the optimum color results in terms of damage reduction, gray coverage, wash fastness and color intensity, the conditioning agent (K) additionally packaged in the kit preferably comprises at least one cationic surfactant and / or one cationic polymer and is at a pH of from 2.0 to 7.5, preferably from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 6.5 and more preferably from 3.5 to 5.5 set.

• – das Konditioniermittel (K) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer und/oder ein kationisches Tensid enthält und
• – das Konditioniermittel (K) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 7,5, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 7,0, weiter bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 6,5 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,5 bis 5,5 besitzt.

Very particular preference is therefore multi-component packaging unit (kit), comprising at least four separately formulated cosmetic compositions (G), (O), (K) and (F), wherein

• - The conditioning agent (K) contains at least one cationic polymer and / or a cationic surfactant, and
• - The conditioning agent (K) has a pH of 2.0 to 7.5, preferably from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 6.5 and particularly preferably from 3.5 to 5.5 has.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglycolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält,
• – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält,
• – das Konditioniermittel (K) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer und/oder ein kationisches Tensid enthält und
• – das Konditioniermittel (K) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 7,5, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 7,0, weiter bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 6,5 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,5 bis 5,5 besitzt.

Thus, a multi-component packaging unit (kit) comprising at least four separately formulated cosmetic compositions (G), (O), (K) and (F) is particularly suitable

• The smoothing agent (G) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycollic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts,
• - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide,
• - the colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye,
• - The conditioning agent (K) contains at least one cationic polymer and / or a cationic surfactant, and
• - The conditioning agent (K) has a pH of 2.0 to 7.5, preferably from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 6.5 and particularly preferably from 3.5 to 5.5 has.

The aforementioned separately formulated compositions (G), (O), optionally (K), and (F) contain the essential ingredients in each case in a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carrier may be a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. For example, the agents (G), (O), optionally (K) and (F) each in the form of a cream, an emulsion, a gel or in the form of a surfactant-containing foaming solution, such as a shampoo, a Schaumaerosols, a foam formulation or in the form of another preparation suitable for use on the hair to which keratinic fibers are applied.

When the agents (G), (O), optionally (K), and (F) are used in the invention, their successive application allows the smoothing and coloring of the hair with relatively little damage, the dyeings surprisingly high color intensities and unexpectedly good gray covers and Have wash fastness.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) einen pH-Wert von 6,5 bis 10,0, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 10,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 besitzt,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 5,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 4,0 besitzt,
• – das Färbemittel (F) einen pH-Wert von 1,5 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 1,6 bis 5,2, weiter bevorzugt von 1,7 bis 4,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 2,5 besitzt.

As with the conditioning agent (K), the maintenance of the optimum pH values in achieving the desired fastness properties also plays an important role in the compositions (G), (O) and (F). Particularly good gray covers and fastness properties are achieved when

• The smoothing agent (G) has a pH of from 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0,
• The oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0,
• - The colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) einen pH-Wert von 6,5 bis 10,0, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 10,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 besitzt,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 5,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 4,0 besitzt,
• – das Färbemittel (F) einen pH-Wert von 1,5 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 1,6 bis 5,2, weiter bevorzugt von 1,7 bis 4,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 2,5 besitzt.

A further particularly preferred method according to the invention and a particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that

• The smoothing agent (G) has a pH of from 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0,
• The oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0,
• - The colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has.

The smoothing agent (G) is thus preferably adjusted to a neutral to alkaline pH of 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0.

On the other hand, the oxidizing agent (O) is preferably acidic, since both the stable storage of the hydrogen peroxide contained in the oxidizing agent (O) can be ensured by the adjustment of the acidic pH, and the dyeing with substantive acid dyestuffs carried out in the subsequent step yields more intensive results.

The colorant (F) is preferably adjusted to a strongly acidic pH. The colorant (F) has a pH of from 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0, and most preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 , so on the one hand, the damage to the hair fibers is reduced, but in addition also the dyeing power reinforced, and improves the gray coverage and wash fastness.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) einen pH-Wert von 6,5 bis 10,0, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 10,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 besitzt,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 5,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 4,0 besitzt,
• – das Färbemittel (F) einen pH-Wert von 1,5 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 1,6 bis 5,2, weiter bevorzugt von 1,7 bis 4,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 2,5 besitzt.

A particularly preferred method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that

• The smoothing agent (G) has a pH of from 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0,
• The oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0,
• - The colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) einen pH-Wert von 6,5 bis 10,0, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 10,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 besitzt,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 5,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 4,0 besitzt,
• – das Färbemittel (F) einen pH-Wert von 1,5 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 1,6 bis 5,2, weiter bevorzugt von 1,7 bis 4,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 2,5 besitzt.

A particularly preferred kit according to the invention is therefore characterized in that

• The smoothing agent (G) has a pH of from 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0,
• The oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0,
• - The colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) einen pH-Wert von 6,5 bis 10,0, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 10,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 besitzt,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 5,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 4,0 besitzt,
• – das Konditioniermittel (K) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 7,5, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 7,0, weiter bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 6,5 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,5 bis 5,5 besitzt.
• – das Färbemittel (F) einen pH-Wert von 1,5 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 1,6 bis 5,2, weiter bevorzugt von 1,7 bis 4,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 2,5 besitzt.

A particularly preferred method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that

• The smoothing agent (G) has a pH of from 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0,
• The oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0,
• - The conditioning agent (K) has a pH of 2.0 to 7.5, preferably from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 6.5 and particularly preferably from 3.5 to 5.5 has.
• - The colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) einen pH-Wert von 6,5 bis 10,0, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 10,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 besitzt,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 5,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 4,0 besitzt,
• – das Konditioniermittel (K) einen pH-Wert von 2,0 bis 7,5, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 7,0, weiter bevorzugt von 3,0 bis 6,5 und besonders bevorzugt von 3,5 bis 5,5 besitzt.
• – das Färbemittel (F) einen pH-Wert von 1,5 bis 6,0, bevorzugt von 1,6 bis 5,2, weiter bevorzugt von 1,7 bis 4,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 2,5 besitzt.

A particularly preferred kit according to the invention is therefore characterized in that

• The smoothing agent (G) has a pH of from 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0,
• The oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0,
• - The conditioning agent (K) has a pH of 2.0 to 7.5, preferably from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 6.5 and particularly preferably from 3.5 to 5.5 has.
• - The colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has.

The colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye. The pH can thus be adjusted by adding the acid dye (which in this case is not in the form of one of its salts). In particular, if the preferred low pH values are to be adjusted, it may be necessary to additionally use one or more acids for this purpose. Also for adjusting the pH values in the agents (G), (O) and (K), the use of acids may be necessary.

Suitable acids which can be used in the agents (O), (K) and (F) are, for example, inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and / or phosphoric acid. However, it is also possible to use organic acids such as, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid or malic acid. Particularly preferred in this context are the low-odor organic acids such as lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and / or malic acid.

The alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the preferred pH values can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids and inorganic alkalizing agents such as (earth) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal metasilicates, (alkaline) alkaline metal phosphates and ( Earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates. Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate. Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and triethanolamine. The basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, more preferably arginine. However, it has been found in the context of the investigations on the present invention that further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain an organic alkalizing agent. An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one alkalizing agent which is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, Alkanolamines and basic amino acids, in particular from ammonia, monoethanolamine and arginine or its acceptable salts.

The measurement of the pH can be carried out, for example, with a glass electrode, which is usually designed in the form of a combination electrode. The pH values of the present invention are pH values measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.

• A) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Glättungsmittel (G),
• B) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Oxidationsmittel (O),
• C) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Konditioniermittel (K),
• D) Behandeln der Fasern mit einem Färbemittel (F), wobei – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglykolsäure, Cystein und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält, – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält, – das Konditioniermittel (K) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer und/oder ein kationisches Tensid enthält und – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält und – zwischen den Schritten A) und B), sowie B) und C), sowie C) und D) jeweils ein zeitlicher Abstand von höchstens 6 Stunden, bevorzugt höchstens 4 Stunden, weiter bevorzugt höchstens 2 Stunden und besonders bevorzugt höchstens 1 Stunde liegt.

Also very particularly preferred according to the invention is a method for smoothing and dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given

• A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G),
• B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O),
• C) treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K),
• D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), wherein - the smoothing agent (G) at least one reducing agent selected from the group thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - the oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide, - Conditioning agent (K) contains at least one cationic polymer and / or a cationic surfactant and - the colorant (F) contains at least one direct-acting acid dye and - between steps A) and B), and B) and C), and C) and D ) is in each case a time interval of at most 6 hours, preferably at most 4 hours, more preferably at most 2 hours and particularly preferably at most 1 hour.

The smoothing agent (G) according to the invention contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically tolerated salts.

Thiolactic acid is understood as meaning D-thio-lactic acid, L-thio-lactic acid and / or a mixture thereof. Cysteine is understood as meaning D-cysteine, L-cysteine and / or a mixture thereof.

Ammonium thioglycolate is the ammonium salt of thiglycolic acid (ie the ammonium salt of sulfanylacetic acid) (Formula I)

Ammonium thiolactate is the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid (ie, the ammonium salt of 2-sulfanylpropionic acid) (Formula II).

Included in the definition of ammonium thiolactate are both the ammonium salts of D-thiolactic acid and the salts of L-thiolactic acid and mixtures thereof.

From this group, the reducing agents thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts have proven to be particularly suitable for use in a combined smoothing dyeing process before dyeing with substantive acid dyes.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure, Thioglycolsäure und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze enthält,
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält und
• – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält.

A particularly preferred method according to the invention and a particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that

• - The smoothing agent (G) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts,
• - The oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and
• - The colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

The reducing agent (s) are contained in the smoothing agent (G) in preferred quantitative ranges.

A further particularly preferred method according to the invention and a particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the smoothing agent (G) comprises one or more reducing agents from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically tolerable salts in a total amount of from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 6.0 to 14.5% by weight, more preferably from 8.0 to 14.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 10.0 to 13.5% by weight. % - based on the total weight of the smoothing agent (G) - contains.

In particular, it is advantageous for the color retention and the wash stability of the dyeings which can be achieved with the substantive acid dyes if the smoothing agent contains both thioglyolic acid (or its physiologically acceptable salts) and thiolactic acid (or its physiologically acceptable salts) as reducing agent.

• – (I) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thioglycolsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thioglycolsäure, und
• – (II) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thiomilchsäure enthält.

Particularly preferably, the smoothing agent (G) contains

• - (I) at least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, and
• - (II) at least one reducing agent selected from the group of thiolactic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thiolactic acid.

• – das Glättungsmittel (G) – (I) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thioglycolsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thioglycolsäure, und – (II) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thiomilchsäure enthält.
• – das Oxidationsmittel (O) Wasserstoffperoxid enthält und
• – das Färbemittel (F) mindestens einen direktziehenden Säurefarbstoff enthält.

A particularly preferred method according to the invention and a particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that

• - The smoothing agent (G) - (I) at least one reducing agent from the group of thioglycolic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, and - (II) at least one reducing agent selected from the group of thiolactic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thiolactic acid contains.
• - The oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and
• - The colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

In this connection, dyeings having the best fastness properties and also dyeings with the best gray coverings could be obtained if the reducing agents from groups (I) and (II), i. the reducing agents from the group (I) thioglycolic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, and the reducing agents from the group (II) thiolactic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts in a specific ratio to each other were used. In this case, preference was given to using thioglycolic acid in an excess.

• – (I) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thioglycolsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thioglycolsäure, und
• – (II) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thiomilchsäure enthält,

wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis aus allen im Glättungsmittel (G) enthaltenen Reduktionsmitteln aus der Gruppe (I) zu allen im Glättungsmittel (G) enthaltenen Reduktionsmitteln aus der Gruppe (II), d.h. das Gewichtsverhältnis (I)/(II), bei einem Wert von 1,0 bis 5,0, bevorzugt von 1,5 bis 4,0 weiter bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 3,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 2,2 bis 2,8 liegt. A particularly preferred process according to the invention and a particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the smoothing agent (G)

• - (I) at least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, and
• (II) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thiolactic acid,

wherein the weight ratio of all the reducing agents of group (I) contained in the smoothing agent (G) to all of the reducing agents of group (II) contained in the smoothing agent (G), ie the weight ratio (I) / (II), is 1 , 0 to 5.0, preferably from 1.5 to 4.0, more preferably from 1.8 to 3.0, and particularly preferably from 2.2 to 2.8.

• – (I) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thioglycolsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thioglycolsäure, und
• – (II) smindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thiomilchsäure enthält,

wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis aus allen im Glättungsmittel (G) enthaltenen Reduktionsmitteln aus der Gruppe (I) zu allen im Glättungsmittel (G) enthaltenen Reduktionsmitteln aus der Gruppe (II), d.h. das Gewichtsverhältnis (I)/(II), bei einem Wert von 1,0 bis 5,0, bevorzugt von 1,5 bis 4,0 weiter bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 3,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 2,2 bis 2,8 liegt. A particularly preferred method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the smoothing agent (G)

• - (I) at least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, and
• (II) contains at least one reducing agent selected from the group of thiolactic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thiolactic acid,

wherein the weight ratio of all the reducing agents of group (I) contained in the smoothing agent (G) to all of the reducing agents of group (II) contained in the smoothing agent (G), ie the weight ratio (I) / (II), is 1 , 0 to 5.0, preferably from 1.5 to 4.0, more preferably from 1.8 to 3.0, and particularly preferably from 2.2 to 2.8.

• – (I) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thioglycolsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thioglycolsäure, und
• – (II) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel aus der Gruppe Thiomilchsäure und/oder eines der physiologisch verträglichen Salze von Thiomilchsäure enthält,

wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis aus allen im Glättungsmittel (G) enthaltenen Reduktionsmitteln aus der Gruppe (I) zu allen im Glättungsmittel (G) enthaltenen Reduktionsmitteln aus der Gruppe (II), d.h. das Gewichtsverhältnis (I)/(II), bei einem Wert von 1,0 bis 5,0, bevorzugt von 1,5 bis 4,0 weiter bevorzugt von 1,8 bis 3,0 und besonders bevorzugt von 2,2 bis 2,8 liegt. A particularly preferred kit according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the smoothing agent (G)

• - (I) at least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, and
• (II) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thiolactic acid,

wherein the weight ratio of all the reducing agents of group (I) contained in the smoothing agent (G) to all of the reducing agents of group (II) contained in the smoothing agent (G), ie the weight ratio (I) / (II), is 1 , 0 to 5.0, preferably from 1.5 to 4.0, more preferably from 1.8 to 3.0, and particularly preferably from 2.2 to 2.8.

Examples:

• (I) 10 g Thioglycolsäure und
• (II) 4 g Thiomilchsäure

100 g of the smoothing agent (G) included

• (I) 10 g of thioglycolic acid and
• (II) 4 g of thiolactic acid

The weight ratio (I) / (II) is at a value of (10 g / 4 g) = 2.5

• (I) 10 Gew.-% Thioglycolsäure und
• (II) 4 Gew.-% Thiomilchsäure

A smoothing agent (G) contains

• (I) 10% by weight of thioglycolic acid and
• (II) 4% by weight of thiolactic acid

The weight ratio (I) / (II) is at a value of (10% by weight / 4% by weight) = 2.5

• (I) 9,37 g Ammoniumthioglycolat und
• (II) 3,89 g Ammoniumthiolactat

100 g of the smoothing agent (G) included

• (I) 9.37 g of ammonium thioglycolate and
• (II) 3.89 g of ammonium thiolactate

The weight ratio (I) / (II) is (9.37 g / 3.89 g) = 2.40

• (I) 9,37 Gew.-% Ammoniumthioglycolat und
• (II) 3,89 Gew.-% Ammoniumthiolactat

A smoothing agent (G) contains

• (I) 9.37 wt% ammonium thioglycolate and
• (II) 3.89% by weight of ammonium thiolactate

The weight ratio (I) / (II) is at a value of (9.37 wt% / 3.89 wt%) = 2.40

The most suitable combination of reducing agents is the combination of ammonium thiogylcolate and ammonium thiolactate.

• – Ammoniumthioglycolat in einer Menge von 2,5 bis 12,5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 4,5 bis 11,5 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt von 6,5 bis 10,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 10,0 Gew.-% – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Glättungsmittels (G) – enthält und
• – Ammoniumthiolactat in einer Menge von 0,5 bis 5,5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 1,3 bis 5,1 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt von 2,1 bis 4,7 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt von 2,9 bis 4,3 Gew.-% – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Glättungsmittels (G) – enthält.

A particularly preferred process according to the invention and a particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the smoothing agent (G) is used as reducing agent

• Ammoniumthioglycolat in an amount of 2.5 to 12.5 wt .-%, preferably from 4.5 to 11.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 6.5 to 10.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the smoothing agent (G) - contains and
• Ammonium thiolactate in an amount of 0.5 to 5.5 wt .-%, preferably from 1.3 to 5.1 wt .-%, more preferably from 2.1 to 4.7 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 2.9 to 4.3 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the smoothing agent (G) - contains.

The oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide in a cosmetic carrier. In a preferred embodiment, hydrogen peroxide itself is used as an aqueous solution in the oxidizing agent (O). The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably 6 to 12 wt .-% solutions are used in water. Oxidizing agents (O) preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 12.5% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 3 to 6% by weight. -% hydrogen peroxide, each based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent (O) included.

As already described above, it is advantageous if the conditioning agent (K) contains at least one cationic polymer and / or one cationic surfactant.

With regard to the minimization of hair damage, it has turned out to be particularly advantageous if the conditioning agent (K) comprises one or more polymers from the group of Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-3, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquatenrium-5, Polyquaternium- 6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquarternium-64, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium- 69 and / or Polyquaternium-86 contains.

Therefore, a method of the first subject of the invention or a kit of the second subject of the invention is particularly preferred, characterized in that the conditioning agent (K) one or more polymers from the group Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-3, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium- 24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69 and / or Polyquaternium-86 contains.

• – quartäre Imidazolinverbindung. Die im folgenden dargestellte Formel Quimi-I zeigt die Struktur dieser Verbindungen.
  
  Die Reste R stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Die bevorzugten Verbindungen der Formel I enthalten für R jeweils den gleichen Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Die Kettenlänge der Reste R beträgt bevorzugt 12 bis 21 Kohlenstoffatome. Besonders erfindungsgemäße Beispiele sind beispielsweise unter den INCII – Bezeichnungen Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 und Quaternium-91 erhältlich.
• – kationische Tenside gemäß der Formel (Tkat-2), RCO-X-N⁺R¹R²R³A^– (Tkat-2) R steht hierin für einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten, verzweigten oder geradkettigen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 11 bis 35 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette, X steht für -O- oder -NR⁵-, R¹ steht für eine Alkylengruppe mit 2 bis 6 C-Atomen, welche nicht substituiert oder substituiert sein kann, wobei im Falle einer Substitution die Substitution mit einer -OH- oder -NH-Gruppe bevorzugt ist, R², R³ jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine Alkyl oder Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit 1 bis zu 6 C-Atomen in der Kette, wobei die Kette geradlinig oder verzweigt sein kann. R5 steht für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C6 geradkettigen oder verzweigten, Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest, welcher auch durch eine Hydroxygruppe substituiert sein kann. Innerhalb dieser Strukturklasse werden bevorzugt die Verbindungen einer der folgenden Strukturen verwendet: CH₃(CH₂)₂₀CONH(CH₂)₃-N⁺(CH₃)₂-CH₂CH₃ A^– (Tkat-3) CH₃(CH₂)₂₀CONH(CH₂)₃-N⁺(CH₃)₂-CH₂(CHOH)CH₂OH A^– (Tkat-4) CH₃(CH2)₂₀COOCH₂CHOHCH₂-N⁺(CH₃)₃ A^– (Tkat-5) CH₃(CH₂)₂₀CONH(CH₂)₃-N⁺(CH₃)₂-CH₂CH₂OH A^– (Tkat-6) Beispiele für derartige Handelsprodukte sind Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 oder Incroquat Behenyl HE.
• – Esterquats gemäß der Formel (Tkat1-2) verwendet werden.
  
  Hierin sind die Reste R1, R2 und R3 jeweils unabhängig voneinander und können gleich oder verschieden sein. Die Reste R1, R2 und R3 bedeuten: – ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder – ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder – ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl, – den Rest(-A-R4), mit der Maßgabe, dass höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können: Der Rest -(A-R4) ist mindestens 1 bis 3 mal enthalten. Hierin steht A für: 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1 – 5, oder 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl, und R4 steht für: 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, und – Q steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Rewoquat^®, Stepantex^®, Dehyquart^® und Armocare^® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare^® VGH-70, ein N,N-Bis(2-Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium-chlorid, sowie Dehyquart^® F-75, Dehyquart^® C-4046, Dehyquart^® L80, Dehyquart^® F-30, Dehyquart^® AU-35, Rewoquat^® WE18, Rewoquat^® WE38 DPG und Stepantex^® VS 90 sind Beispiele für solche Esterquats. Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-2) zählen zur Formel (Tkat1-2.1), den kationischen Betainestern.
  
  R8 entspricht in seiner Bedeutung R7.
• – Monoalkyltrimethylammoniumsalze mit einer Kettenlänge des Alkylrestes von 16 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen entsprechend der Formel (Tkat1-1),
  
  in denen R1, R2 und R3 für jeweils eine Methylgruppe stehen und R4 für einen gesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 16 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-1) sind Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromid, Cetyltrimethylammoniummethosulfat, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumbromid und Behenyltrimethylammoniummethosulfat.
• – Amine und/oder kationisiertes Amine, insbesondere ein Amidoamin und/oder ein kationisiertes Amidoamin mit den folgenden Strukturformeln: R¹-NH-(CH₂)_n-NR²R³ (Tkat7) und/oder R¹-NH-(CH₂)_n-NR²R³R⁴ (Tkat8) worin R1 ein Acyl-oder Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein können, und wobei der Acylrest und/oder der Alkylrest mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten können, und R2, R3 und R4 jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und X^– ein Anion und n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten. Bevorzugt wird eine Zusammensetzung, in welcher das Amin und/oder das quaternisierte Amin gemäß allgemeiner Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) ein Amidoamin und/oder ein quaternisiertes Amidoamin ist, worin R1 ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter, gesättigter oder ungesättigter Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, welcher mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten kann, bedeutet. Bevorzugt ist hierbei ein Fettsäurerest aus Ölen und Wachsen, insbesondere aus natürlichen Ölen und Wachsen, ist. Als Beispiele hierfür kommen Lanolin, Bienen-oder Candellilawachse in Betracht.Bevorzugt sind auch solche Amidoamine und/oder quaternisierte Amidoamine, in denen R2, R3 und/oder R4 in Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) ein Rest gemäß der allgemeinen Formel CH₂CH₂OR5 bedeuten, worin R5 die Bedeutung von Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Hydroxyethyl oder Wasserstoff haben kann. Die bevorzugte Größe von n in den allgemeinen Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) ist eine ganze Zahl zwischen 2 und 5. Weiterhin bevorzugt sind Amidoamine und/oder quaternisierte Amidoamine der allgemeinen Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8), in denen das Anion X^– ein Halogenidion oder eine Verbindung der allgemeinen Formel RSO₃ ^– ist, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat. Der Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen von R2, R3 und R4 und/oder der Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen von RSO₃ ^– in der allgemeinen Formel (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) können mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten. Die Alkylamidoamine können sowohl als solche vorliegen und durch Protonierung in entsprechend saurer Lösung in eine quaternäre Verbindung in der Zusammensetzung überführt werden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die kationischen Alkylamidoamine. Als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendende Amidoamine, welche gegebenenfalls quaternisiert sein können, kommen beispielsweise in Betracht als Amidoamine: Witcamine^® 100 (Witco, INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine^® BB (Croda, INCI-Bezeichnung: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Mackine^® 401 (McIntyre, INCI-Bezeichnung: Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine) und andere Mackine-Typen, Adogen^® S18V (Witco, INCI-Bezeichnung: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), und als permanent kationische Aminoamine: Rewoquat^® RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, INCI-Bezeichnung: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen^® CSC (Albright&Wilson, INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chlorid), Swanol^® Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI-Bezeichnung: Quatemium-33), Rewoquat^® UTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).

Preferred methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the conditioning agent (K) contains one or more cationic surfactants. As cationic surfactants it is possible according to the invention to use all cationic surfactants known and customary to the person skilled in the art. Which includes:

• - Quaternary imidazoline compound. The following formula Quimi-I shows the structure of these compounds.
  
  The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91.
• Cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2), RCO-XN ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ A ^- (Tkat-2) R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain, X is -O- or -NR ⁵ -, R ¹ is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms , which may not be substituted or substituted, wherein substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution, R ² , R ^{3 are} each independently of one another an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Atoms in the chain, wherein the chain can be straight or branched. R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group. Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used: CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A ^- (Tkat-3) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^- (Tkat-4) CH ₃ (CH 2) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^- (Tkat-5) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^- (Tkat-6) Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.
• - Esterquats be used according to the formula (Tkat1-2).
  
  Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 are: a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or - an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl, - the radical (-A-R 4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 may stand for this radical: The rest - (A-R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times. Here A is: 1) - (CH 2) n - where n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - with n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, and R4 stands for: 1) R6-O-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which may be further ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, and - Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU 35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ^® DPG and Stepantex ^® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats. Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.
  
  R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
• Monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts having a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 carbon atoms corresponding to the formula (Tkat1-1),
  
  in which R 1, R 2 and R 3 are each a methyl group and R 4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
• Amines and / or cationized amines, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ² R ³ (Tkat 7) and or R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ² R ³ R ⁴ (Tkat8) wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and R 2, R 3 and R 4 in each case independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and X ^{- is} an anion and n is an integer between 1 and 10. Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given in this case to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Preferred examples include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes. Preferred are also amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) are a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 may have the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5. Further preferred are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines of the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8), in wherein the anion X ^{- is} a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R 2, R 3 and R 4 and / or the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of RSO ₃ ^- in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group. The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred. As for inventive use amidoamines, which can optionally be quaternized, are, for example into consideration as amidoamines: Witcamine ^® 100 (Witco, INCI-name: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine ^® BB (Croda, INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackine ^® 401 (McIntyre, INCI name: Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine) and other Mackine types, Adogen ^® S18V (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and as permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50 (Witco surfactants GmbH, INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate), Empigen ^® CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride) Swanol ^® Lanoquat OF-50 (Nikko, INCI name: quaternium-33), Rewoquat ^® UTM 50 (Witco surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate).

The anion of all of the previously described cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Examples of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , wherein R is the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic organic acid residues such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Preference is given to using cationic imidazolines, esterquats, cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) and amines and / or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines.

The aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent. The surfactants (T) are in a total amount of the surfactants in amounts of 0.05-45 wt.%, Preferably 0.1-30 wt.% And most preferably from 0.5-25 wt.%, Based on the total used according to the invention.

The cationic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of the conditioning agent (K).

In addition, the smoothing agent (G), the oxidizing agent (O) and / or the coloring agent (F) may also comprise one or more of the aforementioned cationic polymers and / or one or more of the aforementioned cationic surfactants.

It is furthermore essential for the method according to the invention for smoothing and dyeing the keratin fibers and for the corresponding multi-component packaging unit that the colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.

Direct dyes can be classified by their charge into cationic dyes (also called basic dyes), nonionic dyes and anionic dyes (also called acid dyes).

Acid dyes are understood to mean direct dyes having at least one carboxylic acid grouping (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid grouping (-SO ₃ H). Depending on the pH, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO ₃ H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups with their deprotonated forms (-COO ^- , -SO ₃ ^- ) are in equilibrium. As the pH decreases, the proportion of protonated forms increases. If substantive dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are present in deprotonated form and are neutralized to maintain electroneutrality with appropriate stoichiometric equivalents of cations (such as Na cation or K cations). Also, when the acid dyes are used in their salt form, depending on the pH present in the colorant (F), an equilibrium is again formed between the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO ₃ H) and the deprotonated forms of the acid groups (-COO ^- , -SO ₃ ^- ).

As suitable acid dyes, for example, one or more compounds from the following group can be selected: Acid Yellow 1 (D & C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D & C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n ° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D & C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n ° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD & C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D & C Orange 4, COLIPA n ° C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230, Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 ( CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C Red 46, Fast Red D, FD & C Red No.2, Food Red 9, Naphthol Red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D & C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid red 35 (CI CI18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, pyrosine B, tetraiodofluorescein, eosin J, iodosine), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n ° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D & C Violet n ° 2, CI 60730, COLIPA n ° C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue , CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blue V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patent Blue AE, Amidoblue AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, CI Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1 Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (CI42100), Acid Green 22 (CI42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D & C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brilliant Acid Green BS, CI 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n ° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n ° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 ( CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Green 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C Violet 2 and / or D & C Brown 1.

A particularly preferred method of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) at least one substantive acid dye from the group Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35 Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green D & C Orange 4, D & C Orange 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 5, Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 7, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Vio Let 2 and / or D & C Brown 1 contains.

A very particularly preferred kit of the second subject of the invention is characterized in that the coloring agent (F) comprises at least one direct-acting acid dye selected from Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35 Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Blue, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green, Acid Green D & C Orange 4, D & C Orange 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 5, Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 7, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Violet 2 and / or D & C Brown 1.

In summary, very particularly preferred is a method of the first subject of the invention or a kit of the second subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) at least one substantive acid dye from the group Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27 Acid red 33, acid red 35, acid red 51, acid red 52, acid red 73, acid red 87, acid red 95, acid red 184, acid red 195, acid violet 43, acid violet 49, acid violet 50, acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25 Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 7, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Orange 4, D & C Green 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C Violet 2 and / or D & C Brown 1.

For certain dye combinations of this group, the prior application of the agents (G), (O), and optionally (K) has a particularly pronounced effect, i. In these dye combinations, the gray coverage and the washing resistance can be greatly improved if the application of the previous agents according to the invention takes place before the application of the colorant (F).

A further very particularly preferred method according to the invention and a very particularly preferred kit according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the colorant (F) comprises at least one of the following combination of substantive acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 3 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 9 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 17 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 23 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 36 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 121 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 14 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 18 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 27 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 33 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 35 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 51 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 52 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 73 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 87 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 95 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 184 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 195 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 43 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 49 / Acid Orange 7 or Acid Violet 50 / Acid Orange 7.

A particularly preferred method of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one of the following combination of substantive acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 3 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 9 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 17 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 23 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 36 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 121 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 14 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 18 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 27 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 33 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 35 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 51 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 52 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 73 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 87 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 95 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 184 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 195 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 43 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 49 / Acid Orange 7 or Acid Violet 50 / Acid Orange 7.

A very particularly preferred kit of the second subject of the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one of the following combination of substantive acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 3 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 9 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 17 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 23 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 36 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 121 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 14 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 18 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 27 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 33 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 35 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 51 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 52 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 73 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 87 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 95 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 184 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 195 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 43 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 49 / Acid Orange 7 or Acid Violet 50 / Acid Orange 7.

The acid dye or dyes may preferably be used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 4.7% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.4% by weight. % and more preferably from 0.3 to 1.8 wt .-% in the colorant. The basis for calculating the total amount of acid dyes is the total weight of the colorant (F).

Furthermore, a process of the first subject of the invention or a kit of the second subject of the invention is therefore particularly preferred, characterized in that the coloring agent (F) contains the substantive acid dye (s) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 0 , From 08 to 4.7% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - contains.

Also particularly preferred is a process of the first subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) or the substantive acid dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.08 to 4.7 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.4 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.8 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - contains.

Furthermore, a kit of the second subject of the invention is therefore particularly preferred, characterized in that the colorant (F) contains the substantive acid dye (s) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 4.7 Wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.4 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.8 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - contains.

To further intensify the paint lift, the colorant (F) may additionally contain one or more solvents. Suitable solvents are ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol. Particularly suitable are benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol. Preferred solvents are propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol. The strongest intensification of the color lift could be observed when the colorants (F) contained both benzyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol.

Further particularly preferred is therefore a method of the first subject of the invention or a kit of the second subject of the invention, characterized in that the coloring agent (F) at least one solvent from the group ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1 ol, preferably at least one solvent from the group of benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol contains.

Further particularly preferred is therefore a process of the first subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) at least one solvent from the group ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethan-1-ol, preferably at least one solvent from the group benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol.

Further particularly preferred is therefore a kit of the second subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) at least one solvent from the group ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol, preferably at least one solvent from the group benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol.

Further particularly preferred is therefore a method of the first subject of the invention or a kit of the second subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) contains as solvent benzyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol.

Also particularly preferred is therefore a process of the first subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) contains as solvent benzyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol.

Further particularly preferred is therefore a kit of the second subject of the invention, characterized in that the colorant (F) contains as solvent benzyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol.

The smoothing agent (G), the oxidizing agent (O), the optional conditioning agent (K) and the colorant (F) may further contain additional active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives to improve the dyeing performance and to adjust other desired properties of the agents.

Preferably, the agents are provided as a liquid preparation and the agents therefore optionally additionally added a further surfactant, said surfactants depending on the field of application as surfactants or as emulsifiers: They are preferably selected from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers ,

Agents suitable according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one anionic surfactant. Preferred anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule. The anionic surfactants are used in proportions of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.

Agents suitable according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Agents suitable according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one amphoteric surfactant. Preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the agents contain other, nonionic surfactants. Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide adducts of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in proportions of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of ready-to-use agents.

It has also proved to be advantageous if the agents contain at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used. Suitable thickeners are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, and cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickening agents, in particular phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite.

The agents (G), (O), (K) and / or (F) may also contain anionic polymeric thickeners. Suitable compounds are selected, for example, from the crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers which contain at least two different monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters of methacrylic acid. Particularly preferred anionic copolymers are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters, which are marketed under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer. Particularly preferred is the combination of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and optionally crosslinking, multifunctional monomers. A preferred commercial product for example Aculyn ^® 33 and 33A, which is available from Rohm & Haas.

In addition, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example fatty alcohols, nonionic polymers, for example vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes; additional silicones, such as volatile or nonvolatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones or cyclomethicones), polyarylsiloxanes and / or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, in particular polysiloxanes with organofunctional groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted amines (amodimethicones), carboxyl, Alkoxy and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethicone copolyols), linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers, grafted silicone polymers; cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, quaternary group polysiloxanes, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallyl-ammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers, and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers; anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, lecithin and cephalins; Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; Dyes for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolysates on animal and / or vegetable basis, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; Sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; Ceramides or pseudoceramides; Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; Plant extracts; Fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate; Pigments and propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art. The additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

It has been found that the multicomponent packaging units of the second subject of the invention are very well suited for low-damage smoothing and dyeing of keratin fibers, wherein additionally the color intensity, the wash fastness and the gray coverage of the dyeings can be improved.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a multi-component packaging unit (a kit) of the second subject of the invention for obtaining dyeings having improved washability.

Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of a multi-component packaging unit (a kit) of the second subject invention to obtain dyeings with improved paint lift.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a multi-component packaging unit (a kit) of the second subject of the invention to obtain dyeings with improved gray coverage.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the method and kit according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Examples

The following formulations were prepared - all data are given in weight percent unless otherwise stated. 1. smoothing agent (G) Smoothing agent (G) Wt .-% HEDP 60% (1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, 60% aqueous solution, etidronic acid) 0.3 ammonium thioglycolate 9.4 ammonium thiolactate 3.9 Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 5.6 ammonium 5.0 Dehyton AB 30 (cocobeatin, 29-33% aqueous solution) 2.00 Eumulgin L (INCI: PPG-1-PEG-9 LAURYL GLYCOL ETHER) 1.00 Polyquaternium-7 3.00 Water (dist.) ad 100 2. Oxidizing agent (O) Oxidizing agent (O) Wt .-% methylparaben 0.04 Dimethyl-kokosalkylaminoxid 1.00 Hydrogen peroxide, 50% aqueous solution 4.00 Dehyquart A-CA (INCI: CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, 24-26% aqueous solution) 0.20 85% phosphoric acid 0.27 Antara 430 (vinylpyrrolidone, styrene copolymer, 38-42% aqueous solution) 0.40 Gluadin W 40 (hydrolyzed wheat protein) 0.25 Water (dist.) ad 100 3. Konditiniermittel (K) Conditioning agent (K) Wt .-% methylparaben 0.30 Dehyquart A-CA (INCI: CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, 24-26% aqueous solution) 1.00 Dicaprilylcarbonat 1.00 Ethylene glycol 2.00 Polyquaternium-7 1.50 glycerin 0.7 Water (dist.) ad 100 4. Colorants (F) Colorants (F) Wt .-% Ceteareth-12 2.6 phenoxyethanol 0.81 Etidronic acid (60% solution in water) 2.1 xanthan 1.35 Sepigel 305 ^[2] 0.45 benzyl alcohol 4.00 D & C Red 33 0.20 D & C Orange 4 0.10 Silica, pyrogenic 0.25 olive oil 0.05 potassium hydroxide 0.01 Perfume qs water Ad 100 ^[2] Sepigel 305, Seppic, INCI: POLYACRYLAMIDE, C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, LAURETH-7 (solids 45-49%)

4. Application

Process (E) according to the invention: hair strands (Kerling 6-0) were measured colorimetrically using a Datacolor Spectraflash 450 colorimeter. Then, the smoothing agent (G) was placed on the strands of hair, left there for 30 minutes and then rinsed with water. Thereafter, the oxidizing agent (O) was added to the strands, left there for 20 minutes and rinsed with water. Thereafter, the conditioner (K) was applied to the strands, left there for 10 minutes and rinsed out again. Thereafter, the tresses were each treated with a colorant (F) for 40 minutes. After the treatment, the colorant was rinsed out again and the tresses were dried. After drying, the strands were again measured colorimetrically.

Comparative method (V): Hair strands (Kerling 6-0) were measured colorimetrically using a Datacolor Spectraflash 450 colorimeter. Then, the stain (F) was put on strands of hair (Kerling 6-0), left there for 40 minutes, and then rinsed with water. In the comparative experiment, no pretreatment with the smoothing agent (G), no treatment with the oxidizing agent (O) and no treatment with the conditioning agent (K). After drying, the strands were again measured colorimetrically.

5. Determination of color intensity

The ΔE value used for the assessment of the color intensity results from the L · a · b · colorimetric values as follows: ΔE = [(L _i -L ₀ ) ² + (a _i -a ₀ ) ² + (b _i -b ₀ )] ^1/2 L ₀ , a ₀ and b ₀ are the color readings before dyeing
L _i , a _i and b _i are the color readings after staining

The ΔE value indicates the color difference that exists between undyed and dyed hair. The larger the dE value, the greater the color difference (ie, the color distance) between the undyed and the dyed hair, and the more intense the coloring on the hair. before dyeing after dyeing L a b L a b AE V 27.71 6.48 10.87 20.56 15.56 6.01 12.53 e 27.71 6.48 10.87 18.30 13.97 4.42 13.65 V: Dyeing method, comparison (V)
E: Inventive dyeing process (E)

With the dyeing process (E) according to the invention, a higher ΔE value (higher color distance to undyed hair) could be achieved than with comparison process (V). With the dyeing process (E) according to the invention, therefore, more intensive dyeings were achieved.

6. Determination of the gray coverage

To determine the gray coverage, the dyeing procedures (V) and (E) described in section 3 were performed on buffalo belly hair and Kerling hair (6-0).

Here, both the buffalo belly hair (corresponding to the gray hair) and the Kerling hair (6-0) (corresponding to the pigmented hair) were measured colorimetrically before and after the dyeing. From the colorimetric data obtained in this way, the gray coverage index (GAI) was determined according to the following formula.

dY:

Farbmetrikwerte des gefärbten (dyed) Büffelbauch-Haars

dH:

Farbmetrikwerte des gefärbten (dyed) Kerling-Haars

uY:

Farbmetrikwerte des ungefärbten Büffelbauch-Haars

Where:

dY:

Colorimetry values of dyed buffalo belly hair

dH:

Colorimetry values of the dyed Kerling hair

uY:

Colorimetric values of unstained buffalo belly hair

The respective ΔE values (dE values) were again calculated according to the above-mentioned formula.

The higher the gray cover index, the less the difference in color between the dyed unpigmented hair (buffalo belly hair) and the colored pigmented hair (Kerling hair), and the better the gray coverage.

The following values were obtained Dyeing process (V) Dyeing process (E) Gray Coverage Index (GAI) 46.39 64.62 V: Dyeing method, comparison (V)
E: Inventive dyeing process (E)

With the dyeing process (E) according to the invention, a higher gray coverage index (GAI) and thus better gray coverage than with the comparative process (V) could be achieved.

7. Determination of wash fastness

The process (E) according to the invention and the comparative process (V) were applied to hair strands (Kerling 6-0) as described under point 4.

To determine the wash resistance, a 2% standard shampoo solution was filled to the top fill in an ultrasonic bath. In it, the hair strands to be treated were completely immersed and sonicated. After the period corresponding to the equivalent of a 24 times repeated manual hair wash, the strands were removed from the ultrasonic bath and dried in a cold air stream. Thereafter, each strand of hair was again measured colorimetrically.

F

= Farberhalt in Prozent

dE

= Farbabstand, Berechnung analog der Formel unter Punkt 5

u

= unbehandeltes Haar

c

= coloriertes Haar (vor der Wässche)

g

= gewaschenes Haar (coloriertes Haar nach 24 Haarwäschen)

From the obtained L · a · b · values, the color retention of the strands was determined by means of the following formula. The color retention is given as a percentage. The higher the color retention, the better the washfastness of the respective dyeing

F

= Color retention in percent

dE

= Color difference, calculation analogous to the formula under point 5

u

= untreated hair

c

= colored hair (before the wash)

G

= washed hair (colored hair after 24 washes)

Wash fastness after 24 washes V (in%) E (in%) color retention 87.02 91.43 V: Dyeing method, comparison (V)
E: Inventive dyeing process (E)

The hair strands which were treated by the process (E) according to the invention had a higher color retention and thus a higher wash fastness after 24 hair washes compared to the hair strands treated with the comparison process (V).

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 2013/098335 A2 [0007]

Claims (10)

 A method of smoothing and coloring keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given A) treating the fibers with a smoothing agent (G), B) treating the fibers with an oxidizing agent (O), C) optionally treating the fibers with a conditioning agent (K), D) treating the fibers with a colorant (F), in which The smoothing agent (G) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - The oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and - The colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye.  The method of claim 1, comprising the following steps in the order given A1) application of a smoothing agent (G) to the fibers, A2) exposing the smoothing agent (G) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes, A3) rinsing out the smoothing agent (G), B1) Application of an oxidizing agent (O) to the fibers B2) exposing the oxidizing agent (O) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes, B3) rinsing the oxidizing agent (O), C1) application of a conditioning agent (K) to the fibers, C2) exposing the conditioning agent (K) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes, C3) rinsing out the conditioning agent (K), D1) application of the colorant (F) to the fibers, D2) exposing the staining agent (F) to a period of 30 seconds to 45 minutes, D3) Rinse the stain (F).  Multi-component packaging unit (kit), comprising at least three separately formulated cosmetic compositions (G), (O) and (F), wherein The smoothing agent (G) contains at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid, thioglycollic acid, cysteine and / or their physiologically acceptable salts, - The oxidizing agent (O) contains hydrogen peroxide and - The colorant (F) contains at least one substantive acid dye. Multi-component packaging unit (kit) according to claim 3, comprising at least four separately formulated cosmetic compositions (G), (O), (K) and (F), wherein - The conditioning agent (K) contains at least one cationic polymer and / or a cationic surfactant, and - The conditioning agent (K) has a pH of 2.0 to 7.5, preferably from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 6.5 and particularly preferably from 3.5 to 5.5 has. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2 or kit according to one of claims 3 to 4, characterized in that - the smoothing agent (G) has a pH of 6.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 10.0 and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0, the oxidizing agent (O) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.0, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0 and particularly preferably from 3.0 to 4 , 0, - the colorant (F) has a pH of 1.5 to 6.0, preferably from 1.6 to 5.2, more preferably from 1.7 to 4.0 and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 2.5 has. A method or kit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the smoothing agent (G) - (I) at least one reducing agent selected from the group of thioglycolic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, and - (II) at least one reducing agent from the group of thiolactic acid and / or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of thiolactic acid, wherein the weight ratio of all in the smoothing agent (G) reducing agents from group (I) to all in the smoothing agent (G) reducing agents from the group (II), ie, the weight ratio (I) / (II), at a value of 1.0 to 5.0, preferably from 1.5 to 4.0, more preferably from 1.8 to 3.0 and particularly preferably from 2.2 to 2.8 lies. A method or kit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the smoothing agent (G) as a reducing agent - ammonium thioglycolate in an amount of 2.5 to 12.5 wt .-%, preferably from 4.5 to 11.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 6.5 to 10.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.0 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the smoothing agent (G) - contains - and ammonium thiolactate in a Amount of 0.5 to 5.5 wt .-%, preferably from 1.3 to 5.1 wt .-%, more preferably from 2.1 to 4.7 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 2.9 to 4.3 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the smoothing agent (G) - contains. A method or kit according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the colorant (F) at least one substantive acid dye from the group Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36 Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3 , Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid D & C Orange 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Orange 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33 , D & C Violet 2 and / or D & C Brown 1 contains. A method or kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one of the following combinations of substantive acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 3 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 9 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 17 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 23 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 36 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Yellow 121 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 14 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 18 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 27 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 33 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 35 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 51 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 52 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 73 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 87 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 95 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 184 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 195 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 43 / Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 49 / Acid Orange 7 or Acid Violet 50 / Acid Orange 7. A method or kit according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the colorant (F) or the substantive acid dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.08 to 4.7 Wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.4 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.8 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - contains.