CN112210865B - Improved double-faced woolen goods production process - Google Patents
Improved double-faced woolen goods production process Download PDFInfo
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- CN112210865B CN112210865B CN202011097418.0A CN202011097418A CN112210865B CN 112210865 B CN112210865 B CN 112210865B CN 202011097418 A CN202011097418 A CN 202011097418A CN 112210865 B CN112210865 B CN 112210865B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
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Abstract
The invention discloses an improved double-faced woolen cloth production process which comprises the steps of spinning, weaving and after-finishing, wherein the after-finishing comprises the steps of washing woolen cloth, shrinking woolen cloth, drying and fixing for the first time, dissolving a connecting wire with hot water and drying and fixing for the second time in sequence; the double-layer weave connecting line of the double-sided wool is polyvinyl acetal fiber yarn, and the fiber composition of the double-layer weave contains wool fiber; the process temperature of the steps of washing and fulling is lower than the initial dissolving temperature of the polyvinyl acetal fiber yarns; the above-mentioned connecting threads dissolve while exerting a force on the tweed that causes felting of the wool. The production process arranges the double-faced woolen cloth into a double-layer structure without connecting wires, and the edges of cut pieces can be directly spread by using sewing needles in the sewing process of the double-faced woolen cloth, so that defects and loss generated in the edge cutting operation are completely avoided, and the sewing efficiency and the utilization rate of the fabric are improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to an improved double-faced woolen cloth production process.
Background
The upper layer and the lower layer of the double-faced woolen fabric are independent warp and weft structures, and the upper layer fabric and the lower layer fabric are connected in an interweaving mode through connecting lines or adhered through environment-friendly modified cloth adhesives in the weaving process. In order to meet the requirements of backstitch splicing, edge-covering splicing or corner sealing, the upper fabric and the lower fabric are peeled off, a double-faced woolen slitting machine is used for splitting the fabric, or a mode combining mechanical peeling and manual peeling is adopted.
The defects of the prior art are as follows: the connecting line is a solid line, defects and loss are easily caused when the cut edge of the fabric is cut, and the cutting process is generally adopted and trimmed until the edge of the cut piece is smooth and straight. The split sewing process is complicated, and the garment processing efficiency and the fabric utilization rate are low; the interlayer cavity at the connecting point of the double-faced woolen cloth is small, and the heat preservation effect is not good enough.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a production process of double-faced woolen cloth without splitting edges.
In order to realize the process effect, the technical scheme of the invention is as follows: an improved double-faced woolen cloth production process comprises the steps of spinning, weaving and after-finishing; the post-finishing comprises the steps of washing, shrinking, first drying and setting, dissolving a connecting line with hot water and second drying and setting in sequence;
the double-layer tissue connecting line of the double-sided wool is polyvinyl acetal fiber yarn, and the fiber composition of the double-layer tissue contains wool fibers;
the process temperature of the washing and fulling steps is lower than the initial dissolving temperature of the polyvinyl acetal fiber yarns;
the connecting thread dissolves while exerting a force on the tweed that causes felting of the wool.
The acting force of the wool felting comprises extrusion and kneading, the acting force can act on the double-faced woolen fabric by hands, or the acting force can act on the double-faced woolen fabric by machinery, and the large-scale mass production is usually realized by the machinery. The dissolving of polyvinyl acetal fiber connecting line is a process that is progressive, and the swelling process, the hydrone gets into inside the fibre, and the volume increases but not disintegrates, and along with the rise of temperature and the continuation of time, the solubility of connecting line constantly improves, and aftertreatment washing and milling process have a large amount of water to exist, and if the temperature is too high, the connecting line will swell earlier and dissolve. During the swelling and dissolving process of the polyvinyl acetal fibers, the wool fibers are extruded and kneaded to be mutually entangled and felted to form a double-layer fabric with stable interlaminar entanglement. Because the double-layer fabric utilizes the felting property of wool fibers, the fiber composition of the double-layer structure contains the wool fibers, and the wool fibers also comprise cashmere.
The dissolving time of the connecting wire needs to be matched with the felting degree of the wool, further, the fineness of the connecting wire is 50-120 s/2, preferably 80-120 s/2, the dissolving speed of the connecting wire is determined by the thickness of the connecting wire, the connecting wire is too thin, and the dissolving time of the connecting wire is too short; the connecting wire is too thick, and the dissolving time of the connecting wire is too long.
The insufficient adhesion of the double-layer tissue fabric and easy delamination can be caused by the low density of the initial connection points of wool felt and entanglement; the density of the connecting points is overlarge, the interlayer cavity at the connecting point of the double-faced woolen cloth is small, and the heat-insulating effect is not good enough. Further, in order to enable the upper layer and the lower layer of the double-faced woolen cloth to be connected more tightly, the preferable technical scheme is that the arrangement ratio of the connecting lines to the double-faced texture warp yarns is 1: 3 or 1: 4.
Preferably, the double-layer tissue is one of 1/1 double-layer tissue, 1/2 double-layer tissue, 2/1 double-layer tissue and 2/2 double-layer tissue. The double-layer weave corresponding to the arrangement ratio of the connecting line to the double-side weave warp yarn being 1: 3 is 1/2 double-layer weave or 2/1 double-layer weave, and the double-layer weave corresponding to the arrangement ratio of the connecting line to the double-side weave warp yarn being 1:4 is 1/1 double-layer weave or 2/2 double-layer weave.
Further, the content of wool is too low, the connection between the two layers of the double-faced woolen cloth is insufficient, and the preferable technical scheme is that the content of wool fibers in the fiber composition of the double-layer structure is more than 60%; further preferably not less than 80%.
The connecting wire dissolving step comprises: and (3) dipping the double-faced woolen cloth by using hot water in a washing machine, and dissolving the connecting wire by the operation of the washing machine, wherein the operation mode of the washing machine is a rotating-stopping interval.
Further, the washing machine is an industrial washing machine; in the heating process of the washing machine, at low temperature, the polyvinyl acetal fiber connecting line is basically insoluble or has small dissolving capacity in a water medium, and when the initial dissolving temperature is increased to high temperature, the connecting line shows a large-amplitude dissolving trend until the connecting line is completely dissolved; according to the molecular structure theory, atoms in a macromolecular chain of the macromolecular compound are combined by covalent bonds, and the covalent bonds are firm and are not easy to damage; at low temperature, the energy of molecular thermal motion is low, the elastic modulus of the synthetic fiber is very high, the deformability is very small, and the fiber is not easy to dissolve; when the temperature rises, the energy of the polymer synthetic fiber is increased, the 'constraint' between molecules is easy to overcome, and when the temperature rises to a certain degree, the molecular chain conformation of the synthetic fiber is changed, and the dissolution of the synthetic fiber is accelerated. The washing machine stops rotating at intervals, so that the double-faced woolen fabric reaches a proper felting degree, and the woolen surface effect and the finished product specification are ensured.
Furthermore, the contact area of the connecting line and the water molecules is ensured by the proper rotating speed of the washing machine, so that the water molecules can easily permeate into the fibers of the connecting line, the dissolution of the water molecules is accelerated, the time for the water molecules to completely dissolve is shortened, and the time requirement for forming a stable connection double-layer structure by tangling the wool fibers is met. In particular, the spin time of a commonly used industrial washing machine is a multiple of 6s, for example 12 s.
In order to reduce and control the dissolving amount of the connecting wire in the working procedure before the step of dissolving the connecting wire by hot water, further, the initial dissolving temperature of the connecting wire is 80 ℃, the process temperature of the steps of washing and milling is lower than 50 ℃, and the temperature of the hot water for dissolving the connecting wire is not lower than 95 ℃. The initial dissolution temperature of 80 ℃ means that the polyvinyl acetal fibers start to dissolve in hot water at 80 ℃. The process temperature in the steps of washing and milling the wool cloth is too high, so that the serious rough surface is caused, and the subsequent processing is influenced; a hot water temperature above 95 ℃ is helpful for complete dissolution of the connecting wire.
Further, the first drying temperature is 125-135 ℃, and the traveling speed of the double-faced woolen cloth is 8-10 m/min. The dewatering of the double-faced woolen goods is dried as much as possible before the first drying is fixed, the drying temperature is too low or the walking speed of the double-faced woolen goods is too slow, the water evaporation is untimely, the dissolution amount of the connecting line is increased, the partial dissolution and thinning of the connecting line are realized, the time for dissolving the connecting line by hot water is shortened, the time for the wool fibers to be tangled is shortened, and the mutual entanglement and felt combination of the wool are not facilitated.
Further, the process of the yarn dyeing step comprises the following steps: the yarn is dipped in the dye and the temperature is raised to the dyeing temperature. The common wool dyeing temperature is higher than the initial dissolving temperature of vinylon, and in order to avoid the dissolution of connecting lines while dyeing the double-faced woolen cloth, the preferable technical scheme is that the spinning step further comprises a fiber dyeing step before, namely the double-faced woolen cloth is woven by dyed yarns.
The invention also aims to provide the double-faced woolen cloth which is prepared by the production process of the double-faced woolen cloth.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that:
1. according to the invention, polyvinyl acetal fiber yarns are used as connecting lines, the solubility of the polyvinyl acetal fiber yarns in warm water and the characteristic that wool is tangled into felts under the action of external force are utilized to finish the double-faced woolen cloth into a double-layer structure without the connecting lines, the edges of cut pieces can be directly opened by a sewing needle in the sewing process of the double-faced woolen cloth, defects and loss generated in the edge cutting operation are completely avoided, and the sewing efficiency and the utilization rate of the fabric are improved;
2. the air layer between the two layers enables the heat generated by the human body not to be easily dissipated, the double-layer fabric has excellent heat insulation performance, and the whole fabric is fluffy, thick and light;
3. the polyvinyl acetal fiber solution can be recycled.
Detailed Description
The following further describes embodiments of the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.
Example 1
Example 1 production process of a double-faced woolen cloth, comprising the steps of spinning, weaving and finishing:
selecting 100% polyvinyl acetal fiber raw materials as raw materials, and spinning into 120s/2 by using semi-worsted equipment to be used as a double-faced woolen connecting line;
the weaving warp yarns and the weft yarns are all spun by using roving ring spinning yarns, the warp yarns adopt 15s/1 yarns, the weft yarns adopt 15s/1 yarns, and the connecting lines are connected with the double-layer weave warp yarns 1:4, arranging the fabric tissue by adopting 1/1 double-layer tissue, wherein the warp density of the double-layer tissue is 303/10 cm, the weft density of the double-layer tissue is 247/10 cm, the fiber composition of the double-layer tissue contains wool fibers, and the wool content is 100%;
the after-treatment comprises the following steps of washing, shrinking, drying and fixing for the first time, dissolving a connecting wire with hot water and drying and fixing for the second time in sequence:
the process temperature of the wool washing step is 40-45 ℃;
the process temperature of the fulling step is normal temperature;
the first drying temperature is 125-135 ℃, and the traveling speed of the double-faced woolen cloth is 8 m/min;
the hot water dissolving connecting wire comprises the following steps: soaking the fabric in water in an industrial washing machine, heating the fabric until the water temperature is 95-96 ℃, wherein the rotating speed of the washing machine is 37r/min, the operation modes of the washing machine are that the fabric is rotated for 12s for stopping for 10s in forward rotation, the fabric is rotated for 12s for stopping for 10s in reverse rotation, and the fabric is rotated for stopping for 10s … … in reverse rotation, wherein the total time of the operation interval between the fabric and the washing machine is 1100 s;
the process temperature for the second baking was 135 ℃.
The gram weight of the double-faced woolen cloth obtained by the after-treatment is 420g/m2。
Example 2
Example 2 the production process of the double-faced woolen cloth further comprises the steps of spinning, weaving and after-finishing:
selecting 100% polyvinyl acetal fiber raw materials as raw materials, and spinning into 80s/2 of double-faced woolen cloth connecting lines by using semi-worsted equipment;
the weaving warps and wefts are all spun by using roving ring spinning yarns, the warps adopt 14s/1 yarns, the wefts adopt 14s/1 yarns, and connecting lines are connected with the double-layer weave warps 1: 3, arrangement, wherein the fabric tissue adopts 2/1 double-layer tissue, the warp density of the double-layer tissue is 300/10 cm, the weft density of the double-layer tissue is 270/10 cm, the fiber composition of the double-layer tissue contains wool fibers, and the wool content is 80%;
the after-treatment comprises the following steps of washing, shrinking, drying and setting for the first time, decating, napping, shearing, dissolving a connecting wire by hot water and drying and setting for the second time in sequence:
the process temperature of the wool washing step is 40-45 ℃;
the process temperature of the fulling step is normal temperature;
the first drying temperature is 125-135 ℃, and the traveling speed of the double-faced woolen cloth is 8 m/min;
decating at 100 deg.C for 2 min;
napping and shearing: the napping enables the double-sided woolen cloth surface to be better, the shearing enables the long wool and the tangled wool balls on the surface to be clear, the decating enables the double-sided woolen cloth to be flat and smooth before napping, and the decating has a small amount of water, so that the dissolution of a connecting line is not influenced;
the hot water dissolving connecting wire comprises the following steps: soaking the fabric in water in an industrial washing machine, heating to the water temperature of 98-100 ℃, wherein the rotating speed of the washing machine is 37r/min, the operation modes of the washing machine are that the forward rotation is 12s and stops for 8s, the reverse rotation is 12s and stops for 8s, the forward rotation is 12s and stops for 8s, the reverse rotation is 12s and stops for 8s … …, and the total time length of the intermittent operation of the rotation and the stop is 1400 s;
the process temperature for the second baking was 135 ℃.
The gram weight of the double-faced woolen cloth obtained by the after-treatment is 450g/m2。
Example 3
Example 3 is based on example 1, except that the double-layer weave contains 272 warps/10 cm and 267 wefts/10 cm, the fiber composition of the double-layer weave contains cashmere fibers, the cashmere fiber content is 100%, the arrangement ratio of the connecting lines and the double-layer weave warps, the process parameters of post-finishing washing, milling, first drying, hot water dissolving of the connecting lines and second drying are the same as example 1;
in order to make the cloth cover have a full hand feeling, the post-finishing step of the embodiment 3 comprises the steps of decating, napping and shearing, and the technological parameters of decating, napping and shearing are the same as those of the embodiment 2. The napping process can be used for pulling the fibers on the upper layer to the surface of the fabric on the lower layer, and/or pulling the fibers on the lower layer to the surface of the fabric on the upper layer, so that connection points of the double-layer fabric can be further increased, the fiber entanglement effect of the double-face fabric double-layer structure can be further optimized, and the connection structure of the double-layer fabric is more stable.
The gram weight of the cashmere double-sided wool obtained by the post-finishing is 400g/cm2。
Comparative example
The comparative example is based on example 1, and is different in that the initial dissolution temperature of the connecting wire is 40 ℃, the process temperature of the tweed is 40-45 ℃, and the double-faced tweed double-layer structure after tweed is in a partial delamination state.
The double-layer fabrics of the double-faced woolen goods in the embodiment 1, the embodiment 2 and the embodiment 3 are stably connected, and the edges of the cut pieces can be directly separated by a sewing needle.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. An improved double-faced woolen cloth production process is characterized by comprising the steps of spinning, weaving and after-finishing; the post-finishing comprises the steps of washing, shrinking, first drying and setting, dissolving a connecting line with hot water and second drying and setting in sequence;
the double-layer tissue connecting line of the double-sided wool is polyvinyl acetal fiber yarn, and the fiber composition of the double-layer tissue contains wool fibers;
the initial dissolution temperature of the connecting wire is 80 ℃, the process temperature of the washing and milling steps is lower than 50 ℃, and the temperature of hot water for dissolving the connecting wire is not lower than 95 ℃;
applying a force to the tweed that causes felting of the wool while the connecting thread is dissolved;
during the swelling and dissolving process of the polyvinyl acetal fibers, the wool fibers are extruded and kneaded to be mutually entangled and felted to form a double-layer fabric with stable interlaminar entanglement.
2. The improved double-faced woolen cloth production process according to claim 1, wherein the arrangement ratio of the connecting lines to the double-faced weave warp yarns is 1: 3 or 1: 4.
3. The improved tweed production process according to claim 2, wherein the double-layer weave is one of 1/1 double-layer weave, 1/2 double-layer weave, 2/1 double-layer weave and 2/2 double-layer weave.
4. The improved tweed production process according to claim 1, wherein the content of wool fibers in the fiber composition of the double-layer weave is more than 60%.
5. The improved double-faced woolen cloth production process according to claim 1, wherein the connecting line dissolving step is as follows: and (3) dipping the double-faced woolen cloth by using hot water in a washing machine, and dissolving the connecting wire by the operation of the washing machine, wherein the operation mode of the washing machine is a rotating-stopping interval.
6. An improved double-faced woolen goods production process as claimed in claim 5, wherein the rotation speed of the washing machine is 30-40 r/min, the time of the rotation-stop interval is 10-14 s and 8-10 s, the total operation time of the rotation-stop interval of the washing machine is 1000-1500 s, and the rotation of the washing machine is a forward rotation interval and a reverse rotation interval.
7. The improved double-faced woolen cloth production process according to claim 1, wherein the first drying temperature is 125-135 ℃, and the traveling speed of the double-faced woolen cloth is 8-10 m/min.
8. The improved double-faced woolen cloth production process according to claim 1, characterized by further comprising a fiber dyeing step before the spinning step.
9. A two-sided woollen cloth, characterized in that it is produced by the improved two-sided woollen cloth production process of any one of claims 1 to 8.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN202011097418.0A CN112210865B (en) | 2020-10-14 | 2020-10-14 | Improved double-faced woolen goods production process |
| PCT/CN2020/131338 WO2022077712A1 (en) | 2020-10-14 | 2020-11-25 | Improved process for producing double-faced woolen fabric |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN202011097418.0A CN112210865B (en) | 2020-10-14 | 2020-10-14 | Improved double-faced woolen goods production process |
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| CN112210865B true CN112210865B (en) | 2022-05-06 |
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| IT202100009923A1 (en) * | 2021-04-20 | 2022-10-20 | Fabrica Tessuti S R L | PROCESS FOR THE CREATION OF A FABRIC FOR COATS AND THE FABRIC THUS OBTAINED |
| CN115233358A (en) * | 2022-07-20 | 2022-10-25 | 上海月猫科技有限公司 | Large twill texture color-mixed tweed and cashmere double-sided fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| JPH05287679A (en) * | 1992-04-03 | 1993-11-02 | Unitika Ltd | Setting of cloth having steric structure |
| JP2755361B2 (en) * | 1993-06-30 | 1998-05-20 | 徹 糸井 | Method for manufacturing multiple woven fabrics |
| JPH07109637A (en) * | 1993-10-06 | 1995-04-25 | Hiroyoshi Yamada | Gold/silver colored yarn for scouring and production of foil woven fabric using the same |
| JP4066063B2 (en) * | 2001-11-12 | 2008-03-26 | 株式会社三宅デザイン事務所 | Fabric product forming method from multiple fabrics |
| CN102121181B (en) * | 2010-01-11 | 2012-03-21 | 浙江纺织服装科技有限公司 | After-finishing process of water-soluble PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol) fiber carrier and animal fine hair chopped fiber knitted fabric |
| CN105350358A (en) * | 2015-11-30 | 2016-02-24 | 张家港市大新毛纺有限公司 | Dyeing method of double-faced wool fabric |
| CN105506963B (en) * | 2015-12-30 | 2017-07-21 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of two-sided preparation method of sandwich type felt proofing |
| CN106435916B (en) * | 2016-10-31 | 2018-12-18 | 安阳光辉纺织有限公司 | Water soluble vinylon zero twisted yarn or soft twist yarn Multilayer plus material and its method for weaving |
| CN108330589B (en) * | 2018-03-06 | 2020-12-08 | 浙江理工大学 | Connecting method of weaving waste edge |
| CN108486734B (en) * | 2018-03-20 | 2021-07-06 | 绍兴柯桥德沐服业有限公司 | Jacquard double-faced woolen fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN108677318A (en) * | 2018-07-21 | 2018-10-19 | 嘉善兴茂毛纺织染整有限公司 | A kind of anti-fold double-side wool fabric production technology |
| CN110820120A (en) * | 2019-11-19 | 2020-02-21 | 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 | Cashmere fluffy fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN112210865A (en) | 2021-01-12 |
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