CN111542305A - Composition for caring for keratin materials, method and use thereof - Google Patents
Composition for caring for keratin materials, method and use thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
- A61K2800/242—Exothermic; Self-heating; Heating sensation
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Abstract
The present disclosure relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: a) at least 20% by weight of at least one catalyst containing 4 to 30-CH2CH2Polyethylene glycol of O-group; and b)10 to 30% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant.
Description
Technical Field
The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide good cleansing and good feel to the skin. In particular, the composition provides a warming effect to the skin and is therefore useful for deep cleansing of the skin.
Background
Cleansing the skin is an essential step for caring for keratin materials, in particular facial skin. It must be as efficient as possible, since greasy residues, such as dust, excess sebum and residues of cosmetic and make-up products used daily, can lead to an unpleasant greasy appearance. Several types of skin cleansing products are known, such as flushable anhydrous cleansing oils and gels, foaming creams, milks and gels, and non-foaming compositions.
In the field of deep cleansing, consumers are looking for cleansers that gently cleanse the pores and improve the texture and tone of the skin. Such products are expected to provide good foaming conditions, as well as adequate viscosity for ease of application. In addition, it is also desirable that the cleanser itself provide a good skin feel, such as a smooth, moist feel (hydration sensory), after application.
Therefore, mild surfactants, such as amino acid surfactants, are more commonly used. Amino acid based surfactants are known for their mildness to the skin and eyes, conditioning benefits to the hair and skin, and lather generating properties. Furthermore, these surfactants are environmentally friendly because they are derived from naturally occurring renewable resources such as vegetable oils and amino acids. However, it is still unsatisfactory in deep pore cleansing. In addition, amino acid surfactants are not easily formulated because they are difficult to thicken to a desired viscosity that enables controlled handling and dispensing of the product during use. Rheology modifiers are used for this purpose. However, the product itself is often found to be unsatisfactory in terms of skin feel during and after application.
On the other hand, warm cleansers are popular due to their ability to open pores and thus deeply cleanse the skin. One of the main technologies of warm detergents on the market is the use of inorganic salts or zeolites, which decompose on contact with water to produce an exothermic reaction. However, the reaction is generally so violent that it overheats instantaneously and does not last over time.
The above-mentioned prior art fails to provide mild and mild cleansers that produce a mild, long lasting warming effect to deeply cleanse the skin.
Furthermore, the above-mentioned prior art fails to provide a cleanser as mentioned above having an appropriate viscosity and good skin feel after application.
There is therefore a need to formulate compositions for caring for keratin materials, in particular for cleansing keratin materials, which have an improved mild and deep cleansing effect.
Such deep cleaning effect is made possible and perceptible by the warming effect of the product when applied.
Furthermore, there is a need to formulate compositions as mentioned above having a suitable viscosity so as to be easy to use, without affecting the skin feel after application, i.e. smoothness and moisturized feel (hydration sensor).
Furthermore, there is a need to formulate compositions as disclosed above having good foaming properties and the desired stability.
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for caring for keratin materials which overcomes the technical problems described above.
The present invention aims to provide a deep cleansing effect for compositions for caring for keratin materials, in particular for cleansing the skin.
The present invention aims to provide a composition for cleansing keratin materials which provides good skin feel after application.
Thus, the inventors have found that the combination of at least 20% by weight of at least one specific polyethylene glycol and 10% to 30% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant in an anhydrous composition achieves the objects of the present invention.
The present invention provides a warming effect. By "warming effect" is meant the temperature increase perceived on the keratin material when the composition of the present invention is applied as a cleanser. This warming effect is mild and gentle with a lasting effect.
By "skin feel" is meant a fresh, moist (water) and mild feel after application of the composition of the present invention. More particularly, skin feel refers to a smooth, moist (hydrated) feel after application.
The term "keratin material" as used herein is understood to mean skin, nails or mucous membranes, and in at least one embodiment, skin.
The present invention provides a composition having the above properties and an appropriate viscosity to enable good use without dripping.
The viscosity is generally measured with a viscometer RHEOMAT RM 180 at 25 ℃ with spindles (mobile) 2,3 or 4 adapted to the viscosity of the tested composition (spindles are selected to have a measurement between 10 and 90 UD, unit deviation), within the composition after 10mn rotation of the spindles, using 200s-1Shear level (cisaillement). The UD values are then converted to poises (1 poise =0.1Pa · s) using a correspondence table.
More particularly, the present invention also aims to provide a composition for cleaning keratin materials having good foaming properties.
The present invention also aims to provide such compositions having good storage stability. By "stability" is meant a composition that does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month, particularly for at least two months, after its manufacture.
Preferably, the composition of the invention may further provide a cooling sensation after application to keratin materials, in particular the skin, provided that an additional cooling active ingredient is present in the composition.
The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular for cleansing the skin, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following specification and examples.
In the following, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more", and the limits of the numerical ranges are included in the range, unless otherwise specified.
Description of the drawings
Figure 1 shows the temperature rise and the duration of the temperature rise when water is mixed with PEG-8, glycerol and propylene glycol, respectively.
Figure 2 shows the temperature rise and the duration of the temperature rise when water is mixed with formulations 4 and 5 of the present invention, respectively.
Detailed Description
The composition according to the invention is therefore an anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) at least 20% by weight of at least one catalyst containing 4 to 30-CH2CH2Polyethylene glycol of O-group; and
b)10 to 30% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant.
Polyethylene glycol
The compositions according to the invention therefore comprise at least 20% by weight of at least one additive containing from 4 to 30-CH2CH2Polyethylene glycol of the O-group.
According to the present invention, polyethylene glycol (also referred to as PEG) is a polyether compound having the structure of formula (A),
H-(O-CH2CH2)n-OH formula (A)
Wherein n is an integer from 4 to 30.
As polyethylene glycols there may be mentioned, for example, PEG-4 sold under the trade name Breox PEG 200 by BP, PEG-6 sold under the trade name Carbowax Sentry PEG 300 by Dow chemical, PEG-6 sold under the trade name Pluracare by BASF®PEG-8 sold by E400 (or Polyethylene Glycol 400 (Polyethylene 400)), PEG-12 sold by Dow Chemical under the name Carbowax Sentry Polyethylene Glycol 600NF, FCC Grade, PEG-20 sold by Dow Chemical under the name Carbowax Sentry Polyethylene Glycol 1000 NF, FCC Grade, or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the polyethylene glycol suitable for use in the present invention comprises 6 to 20, more preferably 8 to 12, -CH2CH2An O-group.
According to a most preferred embodiment, PEG-8 is used in the present invention.
According to the invention, the polyethylene glycol is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amino acid surfactants
The composition of the invention comprises at least one amino acid surfactant in an amount of from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the amino acid surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of an amino acid, wherein the amine group located on the α -carbon or β -carbon of the amino acid salt is substituted with a C8To C22Acylation of the fatty acid derivative.
The amine group at the α -carbon or β -carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acid halide) in the presence of a base by the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction to produce an amide, thereby forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e., an amino acid surfactant8To C22Fatty acids are prepared by reaction with thionyl halides (bromine, chlorine, fluorine and iodine). Representative acid halides include, but are not limited to, acid chlorides selected from the group consisting of decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chloride), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleanoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixtures thereof. Other acid halides include bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the above fatty acids. Methods for preparing acid halides and alternative methods for acylating amino acids are described in U.S. patent application publication No. 2008/0200704, published on 21/8/2008, which is incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, the amino acid surfactant is represented by formula (I):
Wherein:
z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
x is hydrogen or a methyl group,
n is a number of 0 or 1,
y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3、-CH(CH3)2、-CH2CH(CH3)2、-CH(CH3)CH2CH3、-CH2C6H5、-CH2C2H4OH、-CH2OH、-CH(OH)CH3、-(CH2)4NH2、-(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2、-CH2C(O)O-M+、-(CH2)2C(O)OH、-(CH2)2C(O)O-M+And is and
m is a salt-forming cation, wherein COO is a counter anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
According to one embodiment of the invention, in formula (I):
z represents saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8To C22An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,
x is hydrogen or a methyl group,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
y is selected from hydrogen, - (CH)2)2C(O)OH、-(CH2)2C(O)O-M+And is and
m is a salt-forming cation, wherein COO is a counter anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
Examples of amino acid surfactants are salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine and any mixtures thereof. More specifically, the following amino acid surfactants may be mentioned: such as dipotassium octanoyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium octanoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium octanoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olive oleoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl methyl beta-alaninate, lauroyl methyl beta-alaninate, myristoyl beta-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl beta-alaninate, sodium cocoyl beta-alaninate, sodium lauroyl beta-alaninate, sodium coco, Sodium and sodium myristyl methyl β -alaninates, palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartates, sodium myristoyl aspartates, sodium cocoyl aspartates, sodium caproyl aspartates, disodium lauroyl aspartates, disodium myristoyl aspartates, disodium cocoyl aspartates, disodium caproyl aspartates, potassium lauroyl aspartates, potassium myristoyl aspartates, potassium cocoyl aspartates, potassium caproyl aspartates, dipotassium lauroyl aspartates, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium myristoyl aspartates, sodium lauroyl aspartates, sodium, Dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium hexanoyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, in formula (I):
z represents a saturated or unsaturated linear C8To C22An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,
x is hydrogen or a methyl group,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
y is selected from hydrogen or- (CH)2)2C (O) OH, and
m is a salt-forming cation, wherein COO is a counter anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
As commercially available amino acid surfactants there may be mentioned, for example, acyl sarcosinates, for example Sarkosyl NL 97 from Ciba®Sold under the name Oramix L30 by SEPPIC®Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Galsoft nals (P) by Galaxy Surfactants, Nikkol sarcosine N by Nikkol®Sodium Sarcosinate myristoyl sold under the name Nikkol or Nikkol Sarcosinate PN by the company Nikkol®Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name; alanine salts, for example Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 from Nikkol®Sold under the name Alanone ALE by Kawaken®Sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylaminopropionate sold under the name Kawaken, and Alanone Alta by Kawaken®Sold under the name of N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine; n-acyl glutamates, e.g. Amisoft by Ajinomoto®LS 11 is sodium lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12 by Ajinomoto®Triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto®Triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name,; glycinates, e.g. Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto®Sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the name sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate sold under the name Eversoft YCK-100K by Sino Lion company; aspartate, for example from Mitsubishi as Asparack®Is a mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate sold under the name Triethanolamine; citrate salts, and any mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid surfactant is selected from acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl glutamates, glycinates or mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate or mixtures thereof.
According to the invention, the amino acid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Anhydrous compositions
The purpose of the anhydrous medium is to carry the exothermic heating agent without activating it prior to exposure to water.
The term "anhydrous" as used herein refers to compositions containing 5% by weight or less of water based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the composition has 3% or less water. In one embodiment, the composition has 1% or less water.
The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that no water is added to the composition and that the water is contained only in the form of structured water, which in some cases is unavoidable and is introduced in minute amounts as part of the ingredients.
Viscosity of the oil
The compositions of the present invention provide suitable viscosity to enable good use without dripping. According to the invention, the viscosity is generally measured with a viscometer RHEOMAT RM 180 at 25 ℃ with rotors (mobile) 2,3 or 4 adapted to the viscosity of the composition under test (rotors are chosen so as to have a measurement between 10 and 90 UD, unit deviation), the measurement being carried out after rotating the rotors within the composition by 10mn, using 200s-1Shear level (cisaillement). The UD values are then converted to poises (1 poise =0.1Pa · s) using a correspondence table.
Preferably, the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention is from 3000 to 6000 mPas (M3) or from 2500 to 25000 mPas (M4), more preferably from 3000 to 13000 mPas (M4).
Warming effect
The compositions of the present invention provide a perceived warming effect when applied to keratin materials, such as skin.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention is configured to provide a minimum temperature rise of at least 1.5 ℃ by warming upon exposure to water and mixing energy. For example, in one embodiment, by a brush head (e.g., Clarisonic)®Brush head) and manual mixing can activate the composition according to the invention to produce a temperature rise of about 2-3 c.
In one embodiment, the composition is configured to warm for at least 40 seconds upon exposure to water and manual mixing energy. Such a time frame is achieved in the following examples and is necessary to provide a lasting effect to the user.
Additional polyol
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one C-containing polymer different from the polyethylene glycol as described above2-C8A polyol having a carbon chain.
The term "polyol" as used herein refers to a compound comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.
Non-limiting examples of polyols other than the aforementioned polyethylene glycols are glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the polyols suitable for use in the present invention are selected from glycerol, propylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the additional polyol, when present, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cooling the active ingredient
Preferably, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one cooling active ingredient.
Cooling the active ingredient can provide a cooling sensation to the keratin materials, particularly the skin. The cooling active ingredient is selected so as not to compromise the above warming effect of the present composition.
Cooling active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art of active ingredients in the cosmetic field. Cooling actives generally provide a cooling effect to keratin materials, particularly the skin. The cooling effect of menthol derivatives and menthoxypropanediol derivatives is well known for their neurosensory mechanism. In one embodiment, the one or more cooling actives are selected from substituted cyclohexanols and their esters, carboxamides, menthone ketals, menthoxypropanediols and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the one or more cooling actives are selected from menthol and menthol derivatives (e.g., L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol, neoisomenthol, neomenthol), menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1, 4-dioxaspiro (4,5) decane-2-methanol), N-ethyl-3-p-menthanecarboxamide (WS-3), 2-isopropyl-N, 2, 3-trimethylbutanamide (WS-23), N-ethoxycarbonylmethyl-3-p-menthanecarboxamide (WS-5), Monomenthyl glutarate, monomenthyl succinate, 2-hydroxymethyl-3, 5, 5-trimethylcyclohexanol, isopulegol, and mixtures thereof. Preferred cooling actives include menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidone carboxylic acid and mixtures of these substances, especially menthyl lactate and menthoxypropanediol.
When present, the additional cooling active ingredient is present in an amount of from 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 20 to 90 wt% PEG-8; and
b) 15 to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant selected from sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof.
More preferably, according to one embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 40 to 60% by weight of PEG-8;
b) 15 to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant selected from sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof; and
c) 10 to 35% by weight of at least one polyol selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, or mixtures thereof.
Application method
In another aspect, a cleaning method is provided comprising applying mixing energy to a mixture of water and a composition as disclosed herein.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition is used for cleansing, such as cleansing the skin. The cosmetic composition is delivered to the area to be cleaned, such as a portion of the skin. Water may then also be applied. In other embodiments, manual energy is applied to a mixture of water and a composition of the invention (e.g., rubbing, scrubbing, massaging, washing, buffing (abrading), etc., against the skin).
In one embodiment, a mixture of water and the composition is applied to the skin.
In one embodiment, cleansing the skin portion further comprises exfoliating the skin.
In one embodiment, cleansing the portion of skin further comprises removing color cosmetic from the skin.
The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, embodiments of the disclosure.
As used herein, all percentages are by weight (wt.%) of the total composition.
All numerical ranges include narrower ranges; the upper and lower limits of the described (deleted) ranges may be interchanged to create additional ranges not expressly described. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, and so forth.
The terms "comprising," "having," and "including" as used herein are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
The terms "a" and "an" and "the" are to be understood as including the plural as well as the singular.
The phrase "at least one" means "one or more" (and vice versa) and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of a discrepancy between the present disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure controls.
The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present disclosure. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only exemplary embodiments, but as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the disclosed concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described hereinabove are further intended to explain best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by their particular applications or uses. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. It is also intended that the appended claims be construed to include alternative embodiments.
Examples
The following examples are provided for illustration only and are not intended to be limiting.
In each of the following examples, the amounts of the components given are in terms of Active Material (AM).
TABLE 1 compositions of formulations 1 to 3 of the invention
Procedure for preparing the formulations of the invention:
First, the ingredients in the above table were mixed and homogenized at 80 ℃ until all ingredients were completely dissolved.
Then, the mixture obtained above was cooled to room temperature in an ice bath at a stirring speed of 200 rpm.
TABLE 2 compositions of inventive formulations 4 and 5
Procedure for preparation of the formulations of the invention:
first, the ingredients in phase A were mixed and homogenized at 80 ℃ for 30 minutes at a stirring speed of 800 rpm.
Then, phase A obtained above was cooled to 50 ℃ in a dispenser at a stirring speed of 500 rpm.
The ingredients in phase B were mixed and then phase B was added to phase a and the final mixture was cooled to 30 ℃ with an ice bath and stirring was stopped until crystallization occurred.
The various properties of the above-mentioned formulations were evaluated.
TABLE 3 compositions of comparative formulations 6 to 8
The comparative formulation contains other surfactants than the claimed amino acid surfactant b).
Procedure for preparation of comparative formulations:
First, the ingredients in the above table were mixed and homogenized at 80 ℃ until all ingredients were completely dissolved.
Then, the mixture obtained above was cooled to room temperature in an ice bath at a stirring speed of 200 rpm.
The above-listed formulations were then evaluated for foaming, viscosity, feel, and warming effects. Some aspects are scored by a trained scientist or consumer.
The foaming and skin feel effects of the formulations 1 to 5 of the invention and of the comparative formulations 6 to 8 were evaluated by 5 trained scientists according to the following procedure:
0.5 g of the above-mentioned formulation was placed in the palm of a hand, respectively;
mix the formulation with 1 gram of water with a pipette;
rub between palms for 15 seconds (4 cycles per second);
gathering foam in the palm to prevent dripping;
evaluating the volume and density of the resulting foam;
the foam was rinsed off with water and skin feel was evaluated.
In addition, the skin feel of formulation 5 of the present invention was evaluated by 10 consumers between 20 and 40 years of age as a facial foam cleanser according to the following instructions:
formulation 5 of the present invention was applied to the dry face as a cleanser cosmetic;
massaging the face by lightly looping;
wetting the face with water to generate foam for better cleansing;
rinsed off with water and evaluated for skin feel.
Fraction of blisters and skin feel:
a score of 5: at least 80% of scientists/consumers deem to be good and expected;
a score of 4: 60% to 80% (excluding 80%) of scientists/consumers deems to work well and as expected;
a score of 3: at least 50% of scientists/consumers deem to be good and expected;
a score of 1: more than 80% of scientists/consumers deems the effect poor and unacceptable.
The viscosity of the formulations was evaluated according to the following method.
The warming effect of PEG-8, propylene glycol, glycerin and formulations 4 and 5 of the present invention was measured. 2 grams of PEG-8, propylene glycol, glycerin, and formulations 4 and 5, respectively, were placed on a silicone substrate, and 2 milliliters of room temperature (20 ℃) water was added to the formulation using a syringe. A thermocouple (Jinko Handheld meters JK802, China) was then placed on the silicone substrate to record the temperature. The formulation and water were mixed using a brush head at a force of 100-200g, 2 rev/sec for 1 minute. The results are shown in fig. 1 and 2.
The evaluation results were as follows:
skin feel of inventive formulation 5 by consumer testing:
dry & tight skin finish (5); a smooth skin finish (5); a brighter skin preparation (5); a clean skin preparation (5); a moist skin finish (4); when in finishing, the people feel cool (4)
As shown in the above results, the formulations 1 to 5 of the present invention had the intended viscosity to ensure easy use without dripping, good foaming effect and excellent skin feel after application, compared to the comparative formulations 6 to 8. Comparative formulation 6 was unstable (phase separated) within 24 hours, comparative formulation 7 could not be formulated (insoluble system), and comparative formulation 8 was too liquid to be applied.
Regarding the warming effect, according to the results shown in fig. 1, the mixture with water shows excellent warming effect when PEG-8 is present, increasing the temperature more than 2 ℃ for more than 60 seconds. It is evident that formulations 1 to 3 of the present invention have a good thermogenic effect due to PEG-8. Furthermore, according to fig. 2, formulations 4 and 5 of the present invention exhibit excellent thermogenic effects, increasing the temperature by at least 1.5 ℃ for more than 60 seconds.
Claims (13)
1. An anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) at least 20% by weight of at least one catalyst containing 4 to 30-CH2CH2Polyethylene glycol of O-group; and
b)10 to 30% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyethylene glycol is a compound of formula (a)
H-(O-CH2CH2)n-OH formula (A)
Wherein n is an integer from 4 to 30;
preferably, n is 6 to 20;
more preferably, n is 8 to 12;
even more preferably, the polyethylene glycol is PEG-8.
3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyethylene glycol is present in an amount of from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the amino acid surfactant is a compound of formula (I)
Wherein:
z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
x is hydrogen or a methyl group,
n is a number of 0 or 1,
y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3、-CH(CH3)2、-CH2CH(CH3)2、-CH(CH3)CH2CH3、-CH2C6H5、-CH2C2H4OH、-CH2OH、-CH(OH)CH3、-(CH2)4NH2、-(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2、-CH2C(O)O-M+、-(CH2)2C(O)OH、-(CH2)2C(O)O-M+And is and
m is a salt-forming cation, wherein COO is a counter anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine;
preferably, in formula (I),
z represents saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8To C22An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,
x is hydrogen or a methyl group,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
y is selected from hydrogen, - (CH)2)2C(O)OH、-(CH2)2C(O)O-M+And is and
m is as defined above;
more preferably, in formula (I),
x is hydrogen or a methyl group,
n is a number of 0, and n is,
y is selected from hydrogen or- (CH)2)2C (O) OH, and
m is as defined above.
5. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 4 wherein the amino acid surfactant is selected from glutamate, glycinate, sarcosinate or mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof.
6. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the amino acid surfactant is preferably present in an amount of from 12% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one C-containing compound different from polyethylene glycol a)2-C8Additional polyols of carbon chain.
8. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or mixtures thereof; the polyol is preferably selected from glycerol, propylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the polyol, when present, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. An anhydrous composition for the cleansing and/or exfoliating of keratin materials, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 40 to 60% by weight of PEG-8;
b) 15 to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant selected from sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof; and
c) 10 to 35% by weight of at least one polyol selected from glycerol, propylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
11. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one cooling active, preferably selected from menthol derivatives, menthoxypropanediol derivatives or mixtures thereof; preferably selected from menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidone carboxylic acid and mixtures of these substances; particularly a mixture of menthyl lactate and menthoxypropanediol.
12. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the cooling active ingredient, when present, is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Process for caring for keratin materials, in particular for the cleansing and/or exfoliating of keratin materials, comprising the application of mixing energy to a mixture of water and a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2017/118562 WO2019126998A1 (en) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | Composition for caring for keratin materials, method and use thereof |
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| CN111542305A true CN111542305A (en) | 2020-08-14 |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2022165696A1 (en) * | 2021-02-04 | 2022-08-11 | L'oreal | Composition for improving the appearance of keratin materials |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN117377459A (en) * | 2021-05-26 | 2024-01-09 | 莱雅公司 | Composition for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6162775A (en) * | 1998-08-14 | 2000-12-19 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Anhydrous liquid cosmetic compositions comprising glycerin and polyalkylene glycol |
| CN102076325A (en) * | 2008-06-30 | 2011-05-25 | 金伯利-克拉克环球有限公司 | Polysensorial personal care cleanser |
| US20140031305A1 (en) * | 2011-01-04 | 2014-01-30 | L'oreal | Anhydrous foaming composition |
-
2017
- 2017-12-26 CN CN201780097982.2A patent/CN111542305A/en active Pending
- 2017-12-26 WO PCT/CN2017/118562 patent/WO2019126998A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6162775A (en) * | 1998-08-14 | 2000-12-19 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Anhydrous liquid cosmetic compositions comprising glycerin and polyalkylene glycol |
| CN102076325A (en) * | 2008-06-30 | 2011-05-25 | 金伯利-克拉克环球有限公司 | Polysensorial personal care cleanser |
| US20140031305A1 (en) * | 2011-01-04 | 2014-01-30 | L'oreal | Anhydrous foaming composition |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2022165696A1 (en) * | 2021-02-04 | 2022-08-11 | L'oreal | Composition for improving the appearance of keratin materials |
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