CN110284241B - Design method and production process of color-imitating textile fabric - Google Patents
Design method and production process of color-imitating textile fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110284241B CN110284241B CN201910609687.1A CN201910609687A CN110284241B CN 110284241 B CN110284241 B CN 110284241B CN 201910609687 A CN201910609687 A CN 201910609687A CN 110284241 B CN110284241 B CN 110284241B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
- D03D1/0035—Protective fabrics
- D03D1/007—UV radiation protecting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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Abstract
The invention discloses a design method and a production process of a color-imitating textile fabric, which comprises the following steps: spooling; warping; sizing; drafting; preparing weft yarns; and (5) weaving. The invention selects the purple/white chinlon filament to process into the coating silk, imitates the yarn-dyed fabric with color spinning effect, and can reduce the production cost; the interwoven fabric is snow-blue, so that the fabric is endowed with romantic tone; the nylon filament is anti-ultraviolet nylon which can shield more than 97% of ultraviolet rays; the coated yarn is used as weft yarn, so that the production difficulty can be reduced; the coating silk is not twisted, because the twisted coating silk can influence the color spinning effect of the fabric.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of fabric production, and particularly relates to a design method and a production process of a color-imitating textile effect fabric.
Background
There are two common production processes for dyed yarns, one is spinning first and then dyeing, which is a dyed yarn, commonly referred to as dyed yarn; the second is to dye the fiber first and then spin it, which is a spun-dyed yarn. The processing process flow of the colored spun yarn is long, the production cost is high, the inner color and the outer color of the yarn are consistent, and the fabric cannot fade along with washing and friction; the dyed yarn has short processing process flow and low production cost, and can fade gradually along with repeated washing of the fabric. The colored spun yarns and the dyed yarns are also obviously different in appearance, patterns formed by the colored spun yarns are fuzzy in boundary, the patterns have hazy feeling, and the visual effect has a fantasy effect which is similar to the existence of the patterns; and the pattern knitted by the dyed yarn has clear outline. The invention utilizes the dyed yarn, weaves the excellent spinning effect by selecting certain specific processes, shortens the process flow and reduces the production cost for enterprises.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to solve the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a design method and a production process of a color-imitating textile effect fabric.
The technical scheme is as follows: a design method of a color-imitating textile fabric comprises the following product design:
(1) design of the coated yarn: in the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect, a special covering yarn is needed; producing a novel air-covered yarn by utilizing the formation mechanism of the air-covered yarn, wherein the novel air-covered yarn is used for weaving the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect; the covered yarn is an air covered yarn formed by interlacing purple nylon filaments and white nylon filaments through air, and the covered yarn fiber has only one component and two colors; the same filament fiber is coated with different colors to form a novel composite yarn which is similar to a fancy yarn, a colored spun yarn and a single-dyed yarn, and is used for replacing colored spun yarn to produce a fabric with a color-imitating spinning effect;
the covering yarn for the color-imitating spinning effect does not need twisting; the untwisted covering yarn and two filaments with different colors are respectively provided with dozens of single fibers, the single fibers are fluffy and soft, the single fibers alternately and randomly appear at any part of the yarn, some fibers can turn over, appear on the surface layer of the yarn for a while, appear on the inner layer of the yarn for a while, appear on the fibers on the surface layer of the yarn, and can also appear on the front side and the back side of the fabric; the other fibers are not turned over and always appear on the surface layer or the inner layer of the yarn, so that the color of the special covered yarn on the surface of the fabric is uncertain, the surface color of the fabric generates a hazy effect if the color is not clear, and the effect is similar to that of the colored spun yarn, so that the effect of the colored spun yarn can be imitated;
(2) the ultraviolet resistance of the fabric is as follows: the dosage of the uvioresistant nylon filament yarn in the fabric is 24.8 percent, and the ultraviolet shielding rate is 97 percent;
(3) the comfort of the fabric is as follows: the fabric uses cotton fiber and viscose fiber, so that the requirement of the comfort of the fabric is improved; the shape retention and the wear resistance of the fabric are improved by using the nylon fiber; the cotton fiber accounts for 45.1 percent, the viscose fiber accounts for 30.1 percent, the nylon fiber accounts for 24.8 percent, and the official moisture regain of the fabric reaches 8.7 percent;
(4) the yarn is reasonably used, and the weavability is improved:
because the nylon filament is not twisted, the wear resistance is poor, and the nylon filament cannot be directly used as warp;
after sizing, the air-coated yarn can improve the weaving performance of the coated yarn, but the air-coated yarn is used as warp yarn, and has three side effects: firstly, PVA slurry is needed to be used when nylon filament is sized, so that the environmental protection performance of the fabric is affected, and secondly, when the nylon filament is sized, the air for wrapping the filament is compressed, the fluffiness of the fabric is affected, so that the hand feeling, the air permeability and the moisture permeability of the fabric are affected; and thirdly, the nylon filament is stretched during sizing, the fiber is straightened, and the probability of the alternate appearance of the purple/white fibers is reduced, so that the color spinning effect of the fabric is influenced. Therefore, the coated yarn is not suitable for being used as warp yarn through the analysis;
combed cotton/viscose blended yarns are used as warp yarns, the yarn count is 14.6tex, the color is whitening, the blending ratio is 60% of cotton, and the viscose is 40%; N70D purple/white nylon coated yarn is used as weft yarn;
(5) and (3) the color of the fabric is as follows: the warp yarns are white yarns, the weft yarns are purple/white coating yarns, the weave of the fabric is plain, the woven fabric is snow-blue, and the dreamy fabric with the colored spinning effect is woven;
(6) purple nylon filaments and white nylon filaments are consolidated together in an air interlacing mode to form the air-coated yarns, and the consolidation point is 110-130 points/m.
As an optimization: the specification of the finished product is as follows: the warp yarn is 14.6tex cotton/viscose blended yarn, the color is white, and the weft yarn is purple/white air-coated yarn of N70D; the width of the finished product is 147cm, the warp density of the finished product is 429 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 276 pieces/10 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 108.3g/m2。
As an optimization: the width of the grey cloth is 146cm, the warp density of the grey cloth is 429 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the grey cloth is 244 pieces/10 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 103.3g/m2(ii) a The finishing web shrinkage is 0, and the finishing long shrinkage is 11.4%; warp weaving shrinkage of 10 percent, weft weaving shrinkage of 6.4 percent, reed number of 201 teeth/10 cm, and loom reed width of 156 cm; the number of the warp yarns is 6264, the number of the edge yarns is 96, each edge yarn is 48, and the fabric weave is a four-page heald plain weave.
A production process of the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect comprises the following steps:
(1) spooling: rewinding by using a NO.21 winder, wherein the warp yarn is cotton viscose blended yarn, and the spooling speed is set to be 1100m/min and the spooling tension is 3 grades at a medium spooling speed;
(2) warping: the CGGA114B batch warping machine is used, the total number of warp is 6264, the warp is cotton-viscose blended yarn, the warping speed is 650m/min, 9 warp beams are formed by warping, and the warping matching shaft is as follows: 696 changing bobbins collectively during warping without additional tension setting;
(3) sizing: sizing by using an S432 bark sizing machine; the slurry formula comprises: 70% of modified starch and 30% of acrylic acid sizing agent; the sizing speed is 50 m/min: selecting a low sizing speed to reduce leasing resistance and prevent end breakage of leasing; the sizing rate is 13 percent, and the slashing moisture regain is controlled to be 9 to 9.5 percent;
(4) drafting:
the drafting sequence is 2, 3, 4, 1, 2 in each reed;
(5) preparation of weft yarns:
the weft yarn is a purple/white nylon air-coated yarn;
(6) weaving:
an air jet loom with a cam opening is selected for weaving, the type of the loom is GA708, the rotating speed of the loom is 620r/min, and the weaving process is as follows:
the opening is performed early, the opening time is 295 degrees, and the process of opening is performed early, so that the weft yarns are tightened;
the back beam is high, the height of the back beam is +1 scale, the back beam is high, the tension of the warp yarn at the upper layer is small, the tension of the warp yarn at the lower layer is large, the rebound force of the weft yarn during beating up is small, and the beating up of the weft yarn is facilitated;
high tension: the warp density of the fabric is large, the interweaving times of the warp and weft are large, the clear shed is facilitated, the large machine tension is required, and the machine tension is set to be 160kg during the production of the fabric;
the weft accumulator uses two weft accumulators to supply weft alternately, so that weft stopping caused by too late supply of the yarn on the yarn storage drum during weft supply of one weft accumulator can be avoided, and the problem that the motor of one weft accumulator is heated and damaged due to frequent starting of the weft accumulator can be prevented.
Has the advantages that: the invention selects the purple/white chinlon filament to process into the coating silk, imitates the yarn-dyed fabric with color spinning effect, and can reduce the production cost; the interwoven fabric is snow-blue, so that the fabric is endowed with romantic tone; the nylon filament is anti-ultraviolet nylon which can shield more than 97% of ultraviolet rays; the coated yarn is used as weft yarn, so that the production difficulty can be reduced; the coating silk is not twisted, because the twisted coating silk can influence the color spinning effect of the fabric.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
1. Product design:
1.1 design of the coated yarn: in the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect, a special covering yarn is needed.
The common covered yarn has two processing technologies, one is twisted covered yarn produced by mechanically twisting the covered yarn and spandex core yarn; the second method is to combine the spandex filament and the common filament together through air interlacing to make the air-covered yarn. Conventional covered yarns, therefore, typically consist of two component fibers and are both stretch yarns.
The novel air-covered yarn is produced by utilizing the formation mechanism of the air-covered yarn and is used for weaving the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect. The covered yarn is an air covered yarn formed by interlacing purple nylon filaments and white nylon filaments through air, the covered yarn has no elasticity, only one fiber component is available, and the color of the covered yarn is two.
The same filament fiber is coated with different colors to form a novel composite yarn which is similar to a flower type yarn, a colored spun yarn and a single dyed yarn, and is used for replacing colored spun yarn to produce the fabric with the effect of color-imitated spinning.
The covering yarn for the color-imitating spinning effect does not need twisting. The color of the yarn formed by twisting the filaments with two different colors appears on the cloth surface with a certain rule, and the twisted filaments are similar to the plied yarn formed by two single yarns, so that no special part exists. The untwisted covering yarn and two filaments with different colors are respectively provided with dozens of single fibers, the single fibers are fluffy and soft, the single fibers alternately and randomly appear at any part of the yarn, some fibers can turn over, appear on the surface layer of the yarn for a while, appear on the inner layer of the yarn for a while, appear on the fibers on the surface layer of the yarn, and can also appear on the front side and the back side of the fabric; and other fibers are not turned over and always appear on the surface layer or the inner layer of the yarn, so that the special covered yarn has uncertain colors appearing on the surface of the fabric, and the surface color of the fabric generates a hazy effect if the color is not clear, and the effect is similar to that of the colored spun yarn, so that the effect of the colored spun yarn can be imitated.
1.2, the ultraviolet resistance of the fabric is as follows: the colored spun fabric is mainly used for shirt or skirt fabrics for ladies in summer, the ultraviolet radiation in summer is strong, the skin is easily burnt, and the nylon filament yarns with the ultraviolet resistance function are selected as the nylon filament yarns in the coating yarns. The fabric has the advantages that the dosage of the anti-ultraviolet nylon filament yarn is 24.8%, the ultraviolet shielding rate is about 97%, and the fabric has a very good anti-ultraviolet function.
1.3 comfort of the Fabric
Although the special air-laid yarns are soft and fluffy, the woven fabric has good hand feeling and better air permeability and moisture permeability than yarns twisted by the same type of fibers, the special air-laid yarns are still not suitable to be used as the only raw materials.
If the warp and weft yarns are all made of the air-coated yarns, the color spinning effect is good, but all the fabrics are synthetic fibers, so the air permeability and the moisture permeability are poor, and stuffy feeling is generated when the fabric is worn, so the wearing requirements of underwear fabrics cannot be met.
If the viscose filament yarns are selected to replace the nylon filament yarns in the air-coated yarns, the fabric has good comfort performance and good color spinning effect, but the fabric has poor shape retention performance and poor wear resistance, and can not meet the requirements of high-grade garment fabrics.
The fabric uses cotton fiber and viscose fiber to improve the comfort requirement of the fabric; the shape retention and the wear resistance of the fabric are improved by using the nylon fiber. The cotton fiber accounts for 45.1 percent of the fabric, the viscose fiber accounts for 30.1 percent of the fabric, the nylon fiber accounts for 24.8 percent of the fabric, the official moisture regain of the fabric reaches 8.7 percent, and the fabric has very good comfort performance.
1.4 reasonable use of yarn, improved weavability.
As the nylon filament is not twisted, the abrasion resistance is poor, and the nylon filament cannot be directly used as warp.
After sizing, the air-coated yarn can improve the weaving performance of the coated yarn, but the air-coated yarn is used as warp yarn, and has three side effects: firstly, PVA slurry is needed to be used when nylon filament is sized, so that the environmental protection performance of the fabric is affected, and secondly, when the nylon filament is sized, the air for wrapping the filament is compressed, the fluffiness of the fabric is affected, so that the hand feeling, the air permeability and the moisture permeability of the fabric are affected; and thirdly, the nylon filament is stretched during sizing, the fiber is straightened, and the probability of the alternate appearance of the purple/white fibers is reduced, so that the color spinning effect of the fabric is influenced. Therefore, the coated yarn is not suitable for use as a warp yarn through the above analysis.
Combed cotton/viscose blended yarns are used as warp yarns, the yarn count is 14.6tex, the color is whitening, and the blending ratio is 60% of cotton and 40% of viscose. N70D purple/white nylon covered yarn is used as weft yarn. The configuration mode can reduce the production difficulty of the fabric and is beneficial to ensuring the smooth production.
1.5 color of Fabric
The warp yarns are white yarns, the weft yarns are purple/white coated yarns, the weave of the fabric is plain, the woven fabric is snow-blue, and the snow-blue is an associative fantasy tone. The color matching effect adds a dream fabric effect to the fabric, and is popular with women.
The fabric with the color-like textile effect is designed, the colors are not too complex, and if the colors are various, the hazy effect of vision is not obvious. In the design process of the fabric, the dream fabric with the colored spinning effect can be weaved only by using purple/white colors.
1.6 the purple nylon filaments and the white nylon filaments are solidified together in an air interlacing mode to form the air-coated yarns, and the solidifying point is 110-130 points/m. The number of consolidation points of the air-wrapped filaments also affects the performance of the fabric. The number of consolidation points in unit length is large, the cotton-shaped feeling of the fabric is good, and the hand feeling is hard; on the contrary, the binding points are less, the fluffy softness of the fabric is good, but the cotton-type feeling is poor.
2. Specification of the fabric:
2.1 finished product Specifications
The warp yarn is 14.6tex cotton/viscose blended yarn, the color is whitened, and the weft yarn is purple/white air-covered yarn of N70D. The width of the finished product is 147cm, the warp density of the finished product is 429 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 276 pieces/10 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 108.3g/m2。
2.2, a machine processing technology:
the width of the grey cloth is 146cm, the warp density of the grey cloth is 429 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the grey cloth is 244 pieces/10 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 103.3g/m2. The finishing web shrinkage is 0, and the finishing length shrinkage is 11.4%. Warp knitting shrinkage of 10 percent, weft knitting shrinkage of 6.4 percent, reed number of 201 teeth/10 cm, and loom reed width of 156 cm. The number of the warp yarns is 6264, the number of the edge yarns is 96, each edge yarn is 48, and the fabric weave is a four-page heald plain weave.
2. The production key points are as follows:
2.1, spooling: rewinding by using a No.21 winder. The warp yarn is cotton viscose blended yarn, the yarn is thin, the viscose wear resistance is poor, and the spooling speed is set to be 1100m/min at a medium spooling speed. The winding tension is 3 grades.
2.2 warping: the CGGA114B batch warping machine is used, the total number of warp is 6264, the warp is cotton-viscose blended yarn, the viscose abrasion resistance is poor, the warping speed is not too fast, the warping speed is 650m/min, 9 warp beams are formed, and the warping matching shaft is as follows: 696 x 9, during warping, the bobbins are collectively exchanged without additional tension setting.
2.3 sizing: sizing by using an S432 bark sizing machine,
the slurry formula comprises: 70% of modified starch and 30% of acrylic acid sizing agent. The warp mainly contains hydroxyl, and starch is selected as main sizing agent according to the principle of similarity and intermiscibility, and the dosage of modified starch is 70%. The size film of the modified starch is brittle and hard, the breaking elongation is small, the warp yarns are easy to break, 30% of acrylic size is added into the size formula, the acrylic size is good in flexibility and easy to separate and twist, and after the acrylic size is added, the broken ends of the separated and twisted yarns can be reduced, the integrity of the size film is kept, and the broken ends of the slashing yarns are reduced.
The sizing speed is 50 m/min: the lower sizing speed is selected to reduce the leasing resistance and prevent the end breakage of the leasing.
Sizing rate is 13%: in sizing, both impregnation and coating are required, and a high sizing ratio is required.
And (4) moisture regain. The moisture regain of the cotton fiber is 8.5%, the moisture regain of the viscose is 13%, the blending ratio is 60% of the cotton and 40% of the viscose, the official moisture regain of the yarn is 10.3%, and the moisture regain of the slashing is 1% -1.5% lower than the official moisture regain, so that the moisture regain of the slashing is controlled to be 9% -9.5%.
2.4 drafting:
the drafting sequence is 2, 3, 4, 1, 2 entries per reed.
2.5 preparation of weft yarns:
the weft yarn is a purple/white chinlon air-coated yarn, is designed by the factory according to the process requirements, is produced by a chemical fiber factory according to the specified requirements, and is directly used after being returned to the factory.
2.6 weaving:
the fabric weave structure is simple, the fabric is woven by an air jet loom with a cam opening, the type of the fabric is GA708, the rotating speed of the loom is 620r/min, and the weaving process is as follows:
early open with an open time of 2950And the early shedding process is favorable for tightening the weft yarns.
The back beam is high, the height of the back beam is +1 scale, the back beam is high, the tension of the warp yarn on the upper layer is small, the tension of the warp yarn on the lower layer is large, the rebound force of the weft yarn is small during beating-up, and the beating-up of the weft yarn is facilitated.
High tension: the warp density of the fabric is high, the interweaving times of the warp and weft are high, the clear shed is facilitated, the high machine tension is required, and the machine tension is set to be 160kg during production of the fabric.
The weft accumulator uses two weft accumulators to supply weft alternately, so that the situation that when one weft accumulator supplies weft, the weft is not timely replenished after the yarn on the yarn storage drum is used up, the weft is stopped, and the situation that the motor of one weft accumulator is heated and damaged due to frequent starting of the weft accumulator can be prevented.
According to the invention, the common dyed yarns are used as warp yarns, and the well-designed air-coated yarns are used as weft yarns, so that the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect is developed, has good comfort, is stiff, smooth and fashionable, and is deeply favored by women. In the development process, the following key points are mainly included: (1) the method is characterized in that a common dyed yarn or a dyed filament is utilized to imitate a colored textile, and the key point is that a special coating yarn capable of replacing a colored spun yarn needs to be designed; (2) the color matching of the fabric has great influence on the color spinning effect, after the purple/white yarns are interwoven, the fabric is snow cyan, and the snow cyan belongs to a romantic color, so that the fabric is endowed with the fantastic color spinning effect; (3) the fabric is used as a summer lady shirt or skirt fabric, the ultraviolet rays are strong in summer, and the ultraviolet-resistant chinlon is selected, so that the skin burn caused by the ultraviolet rays can be effectively avoided, and the internal quality of the fabric is improved; (4) twisted coating silk is not needed, and the regularity of alternate colors of the twisted coating silk is high, so that the color spinning effect is influenced; (5) the fabric is used as a close-fitting fabric, so that the comfort is better, and the comfort performance of the fabric is improved by adding the cellulose fiber with good skin-friendly performance into the fabric; (6) in order to improve the weavability of the fabric, the wrapping yarn is used as weft yarn, so that the production difficulty can be reduced, and the yield and the quality of the product can be improved.
Claims (3)
1. A production process of a color-imitating textile fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the fabric is designed as follows:
(1) design of the wrap yarn: in the fabric with the color-imitating spinning effect, a special covering yarn is needed; producing a novel air-covered yarn by utilizing the formation mechanism of the air-covered yarn, wherein the novel air-covered yarn is used for weaving a fabric with a color-imitating spinning effect; the covered yarn is an air covered yarn formed by air interlacing of purple nylon filaments and white nylon filaments, and the covered yarn has only one component and two colors; the same filament fiber is coated with different colors to form a novel composite yarn which is similar to a fancy yarn, a colored spun yarn and a single-dyed yarn, and is used for replacing colored spun yarn to produce a fabric with a color-imitating spinning effect;
the covering yarn for the color-imitating spinning effect does not need twisting; the untwisted covering yarn and two filaments with different colors are respectively provided with dozens of single fibers, the single fibers are fluffy and soft, the single fibers alternately and randomly appear at any part of the yarn, some fibers can turn over, appear on the surface layer of the yarn for a while, appear on the inner layer of the yarn for a while, appear on the fibers on the surface layer of the yarn, and can also appear on the front side and the back side of the fabric; the other fibers are not turned over and always appear on the surface layer or the inner layer of the yarn, so that the color of the special covered yarn on the surface of the fabric is uncertain, the surface color of the fabric generates a hazy effect if the color is not clear, and the effect is similar to that of the colored spun yarn, so that the effect of the colored spun yarn can be imitated;
(2) the ultraviolet resistance of the fabric is as follows: the dosage of the uvioresistant nylon filament yarn in the fabric is 24.8 percent, and the ultraviolet shielding rate is 97 percent;
(3) the comfort of the fabric is as follows: the fabric uses cotton fiber and viscose fiber, so that the requirement of the comfort of the fabric is improved; the shape retention and the wear resistance of the fabric are improved by using the nylon fiber; the cotton fiber accounts for 45.1 percent, the viscose fiber accounts for 30.1 percent, the nylon fiber accounts for 24.8 percent, and the official moisture regain of the fabric reaches 8.7 percent;
(4) the yarn is reasonably used, and the weavability is improved:
because the nylon filament is not twisted, the wear resistance is poor, and the nylon filament cannot be directly used as warp;
the air-covered yarn can improve the weaving performance of the covered yarn after sizing, but the air-covered yarn is used as warp yarn, and has three side effects: firstly, PVA slurry is needed to be used when nylon filament is sized, so that the environmental protection performance of the fabric is influenced, and secondly, when the nylon filament is sized, the air of the wrapping yarn is compressed, the fluffiness of the fabric is influenced, so that the hand feeling, the air permeability and the moisture permeability of the fabric are influenced; thirdly, when sizing is carried out, the nylon filament is stretched, the fiber is straightened, and the probability of the alternate appearance of the purple/white fibers is reduced, so that the color spinning effect of the fabric is influenced; therefore, the covering yarn is not suitable for use as a warp;
combed cotton/viscose blended yarns are used as warp yarns, the yarn count is 14.6tex, the color is whitening, the blending ratio is 60% of cotton, and the viscose is 40%; N70D purple/white chinlon covered yarn is used as weft yarn;
(5) and (3) the color of the fabric is as follows: the warp yarns are white yarns, the weft yarns are purple/white covered yarns, the weave of the fabric is plain, the woven fabric is snow-blue, and the dreamy fabric with the colored spinning effect is woven;
(6) the purple nylon filaments and the white nylon filaments are consolidated together in an air interlacing mode to form air-coated yarns, and the consolidation point is 110-130 points/m;
the production process of the color-imitating textile fabric further comprises the following steps:
(1) spooling: rewinding by using a NO.21 winder, wherein the warp yarn is cotton viscose blended yarn, and the spooling speed is set to be 1100m/min and the spooling tension is 3 grades at a medium spooling speed;
(2) warping: the CGGA114B batch warping machine is used, the total number of warp beams is 6264, the warping speed is 650m/min, 9 warp beams are formed, and the warping matching shaft is as follows: 696 changing bobbins collectively during warping without additional tension setting;
(3) sizing: sizing by using an S432 bark sizing machine; the slurry formula comprises: 70% of modified starch and 30% of acrylic acid sizing agent; the sizing speed is 50 m/min: selecting a low sizing speed to reduce leasing resistance and prevent end breakage of leasing; the sizing rate is 13 percent, and the slashing moisture regain is controlled to be 9 to 9.5 percent;
(4) drafting:
the drafting sequence is 2, 3, 4, 1, 2 in each reed;
(5) weaving:
an air jet loom with a cam opening is selected for weaving, the type of the loom is GA708, the rotating speed of the loom is 620r/min, and the weaving process is as follows:
the opening is performed early, the opening time is 295 degrees, and the process of opening is performed early, so that the weft yarns are tightened;
the back beam is high, the height of the back beam is +1 scale, the back beam is high, the tension of the warp yarn at the upper layer is small, the tension of the warp yarn at the lower layer is large, the rebound force of the weft yarn during beating up is small, and the beating up of the weft yarn is facilitated;
high tension: the warp density of the fabric is large, the interweaving times of the warp and weft are large, the clear shed is facilitated, the large machine tension is required, and the machine tension is set to be 160kg during the production of the fabric;
the weft accumulator uses two weft accumulators to supply weft in turn, so that weft stopping caused by too late replenishment of the yarn on the yarn storage drum during weft supply of one weft accumulator can be avoided, and the problem that the motor of one weft accumulator is heated to cause damage due to frequent starting of the weft accumulator can be prevented.
2. The production process of the color-imitating textile effect fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the specification of the finished product is as follows: the width of the finished product is 147cm, the warp density of the finished product is 429 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 276 pieces/10 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 108.3g/m2。
3. The production process of the color-imitating textile effect fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the width of the grey cloth is 146cm, the warp density of the grey cloth is 429 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the grey cloth is 244 pieces/10 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 103.3g/m2(ii) a The finishing web shrinkage is 0, and the finishing long shrinkage is 11.4%; warp weaving shrinkage of 10 percent, weft weaving shrinkage of 6.4 percent, reed number of 201 teeth/10 cm, and loom reed width of 156 cm; the number of the warp yarns is 6264, the number of the edge yarns is 96, each edge yarn is 48, and the fabric weave is a four-page heald plain weave.
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