CN117813078A

CN117813078A - Composition for caring skin

Info

Publication number: CN117813078A
Application number: CN202180101080.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 吴小蒙; 翁小闽
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-07-29
Filing date: 2021-07-29
Publication date: 2024-04-02
Also published as: FR3125713B1; FR3125713A1; EP4376803A1; WO2023004674A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising A) a natural polysaccharide having a molecular weight of 50,000-500,000, B) an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of amphoteric or anionic surfactants; and C) a wax. The composition may be used for caring for keratin materials such as skin, in particular sensitive skin.

Description

Composition for caring skin

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular for the skin. Furthermore, the invention relates to the use thereof, in particular as an emulsion for caring for sensitive skin.

Background

It has been an ultimate goal in the cosmetic field to provide consumers with efficient products having skin benefits such as moisturizing, whitening, cleansing, etc.

For effective delivery, various forms of product are used. Among these, emulsions are of interest. For example, US 2014/0100276 discloses an emulsion composition which allows water to remain in the skin for a long period of time, wherein the emulsion assumes a layered structure, in particular in the form of an alpha-gel. The cosmetic composition is capable of providing good water retention to the skin due to the layered structure, i.e. the repeated bilayer structure, and thus provides long lasting moisturization. Various types of surfactants are used to stabilize the alpha-gel structure and provide a moisturizing effect to the skin.

Many people have sensitive skin. For application on sensitive skin, various technical solutions have been developed, most of which rely on the selection of specific active agents to reduce skin discomfort. At the same time, high levels of active agents in the formulation can also pose a potential risk to skin-sensitive consumers.

Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a new form of cosmetic composition for delivering a desired ingredient to sensitive skin.

Summary of The Invention

The inventors have found that specific compositions comprising specifically selected sugars, emulsifiers and waxes can form liquid crystal emulsions, which are particularly useful for delivering active substances to sensitive skin.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises the following components:

a) A natural polysaccharide, which is a natural polysaccharide,

b) An emulsifier selected from amphoteric or anionic surfactants; and

c) And (3) wax.

A subject of the present invention is thus a liquid-crystal emulsion formed from the composition according to the invention, for example by adding a solvent.

A further subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin. The use may manifest itself in a method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the steps of compounding the composition in a predetermined weight ratio and then applying the mixture thus obtained to said keratin materials.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following specification and examples.

Brief description of the drawings

FIG. 1 shows the results according to example 2; and

fig. 2 shows the results according to example 3.

Detailed Description

Throughout the specification, including the claims, unless the context requires otherwise, the term "comprise/comprise" shall be understood to be synonymous with "comprising/comprising at least one". Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Throughout the specification, including the claims, embodiments defined by "comprising" and the like should be understood to include preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of …" and preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of …".

Preferably, the "keratin material" according to the invention is skin. By "skin" we mean whole body skin. For example, the keratin material may be the face or neck.

In this application, unless explicitly mentioned otherwise, amounts, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," having a meaning conventionally known in the art, such as within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% -11%, and about "2%" means 1.8% -2.2%).

Component A), natural polysaccharide

In general, natural polysaccharide refers to a polysaccharide obtainable from nature. However, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "natural polysaccharide" is intended to also cover "polysaccharides of natural origin", which represent polysaccharides obtained by modification of polysaccharides obtainable from nature.

In general, the natural polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides, such as levan, dextran, galactan and mannan, or heteropolysaccharides, such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides, such as pullulan, or branched polysaccharides, such as gum arabic and pullulan, or mixed polysaccharides, such as starch.

In general, the polysaccharide may be selected from polysaccharides made by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, like polysaccharides (homogeneous polysaccharides), in particular cellulose and its derivatives or fructans, heteropolysaccharides (heterogeneous polysaccharide), such as gum arabic (gum arabics), galactomannans, glucomannans and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of fructans, gellans (gellans), glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, cellulose and derivatives thereof, such as methylcellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, mannans, xylans, lignin, arabinans, galactans, galacturonans (galacturonans), chitins, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglycans (glycosaminoglycans), gum arabic (gum arable), gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, locust bean gum, galactomannans, such as guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin (biopoly saccharide gums), in particular scleroglucan or xanthan, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof. These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, in particular with urea or urethane groups, or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphorylation, amination, amidation or alkylation reactions, or by several of these modifications.

The resulting derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Advantageously, the polysaccharide may be selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, such as scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Rather, these polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention can be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, derived from algae or derived from higher plants, and are described in detail below.

Polysaccharide prepared from microorganism

Xanthan gum

Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium xanthomonas (Xanthomonas campestris). Like cellulose, its structure consists of a backbone of beta (1, 4) -linked beta-D-glucose. One of the two glucose molecules has a trisaccharide side chain consisting of α -D-mannose, β -D-glucuronic acid and terminal β -D-mannose. The internal mannose residues are typically acetylated at carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues have pyruvate groups attached in chelate form between carbon 4 and carbon 6. Charged pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid are ionizable and are therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the strain, fermentation method, conditions after fermentation and purification steps. These groups can be used in commercial products with Na ⁺ 、K ⁺ Or Ca ²⁺ Ion neutralization (Satia, inc., 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acidic form by ion exchange or by dialysis from an acidic solution.

Xanthan gum has a molecular weight between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 ℃ on a brookfield viscometer of the LVT type (Brookfield viscometer) at 60 rpm).

Representative of xanthan gum are, for example, rhodia Chimie under the name Rhodicare, cargill Texturizing Solutions under the name Satiaxane ^TM Named (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), ADM company Novaxan ^TM For name and CP-Kelco companyAnd->Products sold for the name.

Pullulan polysaccharide

Pullulan is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units, known by the name α (1, 4) - α (1, 6) -glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are linked via an alpha (1, 4) glycosidic bond, while successive maltotriose units are linked to each other via an alpha (1, 6) glycosidic bond.

Pullulan is produced, for example, by the Hayashibara group of japan under the designation Pullulan PF 20.

Dextran and dextran sulfate

Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide without any charged groups, which is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of sugar beet sugar containing only hydroxyl groups. Dextran fractions of different molecular weights can be obtained from natural dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may be in particular in the form of dextran sulfate.

Dextran is represented by, for example, the products sold by the company Phacosmos under the names Dextran or Dextran T, or by the company Meito Sangyo Co., under the names Dextran 40Powder or Dextran 70 Powder. Dextran sulfate is sold by PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.

Succinoglycan

Succinoglycan is a high molecular weight extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, consisting of eight sugar repeating units (8 sugar repeats). Succinoglycans are sold, for example, by Rhodia under the name Rheozan.

Scleroglucan

Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide consisting of β -D-glucan units. The molecule consists of a linear backbone formed of D-glucose units linked via β (1, 3) bonds, and wherein one third is linked to a pendant D-glucose unit via β (1, 6) bonds.

A more complete description of scleroglucan and its preparation can be found in patent US 3 301 848.

Scleroglucan is, for example, named by Alban Miiller under the name Amigel or by Cargill under the name Actigum ^TM CS is sold under the name.

Polysaccharide isolated from algae

Alternaria alternata (L.) Gaertn

Furcellaran is commercially available from red algae furcellaran (Furcellaria fasztigiata). Furcellaran is produced, for example, by Est-Agar corporation.

Polysaccharides from plants

Polysaccharides of this class can be divided into homopolysaccharides (only one saccharide) and heteropolysaccharides (consisting of several types of saccharides).

a) Homopolysaccharide and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be selected from cellulose and derivatives or levan.

Cellulose and derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be cellulose or a derivative thereof, in particular a cellulose ether or ester (e.g. methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

The present invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer.

According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based compound" refers to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a linear sequence of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGU) linked together via β (1, 4) bonds. The repeating units are cellobiose dimers. AGU is in a chair conformation and has 3 hydroxyl functional groups: 2 secondary alcohols (positions 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (position 6). The polymers thus formed are assembled together via intermolecular bonds of the hydrogen bonding type, thus providing the cellulose with a fibrous structure (about 1500 molecules per fiber).

Depending on the source of the cellulose, the degree of polymerization varies greatly; the value thereof may be several hundred to several tens of thousands.

The hydroxyl groups of cellulose may be partially or fully reacted with various chemical reagents to produce cellulose derivatives having inherent properties. The cellulose derivative may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, alkyl celluloses, such as methyl cellulose and ethyl cellulose, can be mentioned; hydroxyalkyl celluloses such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose; and mixed hydroxyalkyl alkyl celluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkyl celluloses and salts thereof. For example, carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl methylcellulose and carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and sodium salts thereof may be mentioned.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or uncrosslinked quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose.

The quaternizing agent can be, in particular, glycidyl trimethylammonium chloride or fatty amines, such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium.

Quaternized cellulose derivatives are in particular:

quaternized cellulose modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl groups carried by the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose described above preferably contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl preferably means phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthracyl.

Pointed out to contain C _8-30 Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose of the fatty chain include the products Quattrisoft LM 200, quattrisoft LM-X529-18-A, quattrisoft LM-X529-18B (C) ₁₂ Alkyl) and Quattrisoft LM-X529-8 (C) ₁₈ Alkyl), and products sold by Croda company Crodacel QM, crodacel QL (C) ₁₂ Alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C ₁₈ Alkyl).

Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

cellulose modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, in particular C _8-22 Alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl modified hydroxyethylcellulose, e.g. Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C ₁₆ Alkyl), and

cellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol.

Among the cellulose esters are cellulose inorganic esters (cellulose nitrate, cellulose sulfate, cellulose phosphate, etc.), cellulose organic esters (cellulose monoacetate, cellulose triacetate, cellulose amidopropionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate, cellulose acetate trimellitate, etc.), and mixed inorganic/organic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate and ethylcellulose sulfate may be mentioned.

The cellulose-based compounds of the present invention may be selected from unsubstituted cellulose and substituted cellulose. Representative of cellulose and derivatives are, for example, FMC Biopolymers Inc. to(microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose), akzo Nobel under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose), dow under the name Methocel ^TM (cellulose ether) and Ethocel ^TM (ethylcellulose) is named and Hercules Aqualon company>(carboxymethyl cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose), -a group of amino acids>(methyl cellulose), blance ^TM (carboxymethyl cellulose), ->(methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), ->(hydroxypropyl cellulose), ->(cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose) and +.>CS (hydroxyethyl cellulose) is a product sold under the name.

Levan

The polysaccharides according to the invention may in particular be fructans selected from inulin and derivatives thereof, in particular dicarboxylic inulin and carboxymethyl inulin.

Fructans or Fructans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally in combination with several sugar residues other than fructose. Levan may be linear or branched. Levan may be a product obtained directly from a plant or microbial source, or the following: its chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular by enzymatic methods. Levan generally has a degree of polymerization of 2 to about 1000 and preferably 2 to about 60.

Three classes of levan are distinguished. The first class corresponds to products in which the fructose units are mostly linked via β (2, 1) linkages. These are essentially linear fructans, such as inulin.

The second class also corresponds to linear fructose, but the fructose units are essentially linked via β (2, 6) linkages. These products are levans (levans).

The third class corresponds to mixed levans, i.e., containing β (2, 6) and β (2, 1) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans such as gram-sugar (graminans).

The preferred levan in the composition according to the invention is inulin. Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke (Jerusalem artichoke), preferably from chicory.

In particular, polysaccharides, especially inulin, have a degree of polymerization of 2 to about 1000, and preferably of 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.

Representative of inulin for use in the present invention are, for example, those available from Orafti Inc. as Beneo ^TM Inulin is named and Sensus CorpProducts sold for the name.

b) Heteropolysaccharide and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharide which may be used according to the invention may be a gum such as cassia, karaya, konjac, gum tragacanth, tara, acacia or gum arabic.

Gum arabic

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide in the form of a mixture of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric elements of the free acids (Arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, tara gum) and derivatives (guar phosphate esters, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.)

Galactomannans are nonionic polyglycosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, which constitute storage carbohydrates.

Galactomannans are macromolecules composed of a backbone of β (1, 4) -linked D-mannopyranose units with side branches composed of a single D-galactopyranose unit with α (1, 6) linked to the backbone. The various galactomannans differ firstly in the proportion of alpha-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer and secondly in the significant differences in the distribution of the galactose units along the mannose chains.

Guar gum has a mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio of about 2, tara gum of 3, and locust bean gum of 4.

Guar gum

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose/galactose ratio of about 2/1. Galactose groups are regularly distributed along the mannose chains.

Guar gum that can be used according to the invention can be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the present invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar can be used.

Unmodified nonionic guar gum is, for example, from Unipektin under the names Vidogum GH, vidogum G and Vidocrem and from Rhodia under the name Jaguar from Danisco Guar is named and is available from Cargill corporation as Viscogn ^TM For name and Aqualon company +.>Guar gum is a product sold under the name guar gum.

Representative of hydrolyzed nonionic guar gum that can be used in accordance with the present invention are, for example, danisco Inc.Products sold for the name.

The modified nonionic guar usable according to the invention is preferably C ₁ -C ₆ Hydroxyalkyl modifications, among which mention may be made of, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl.

Such nonionic guar optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by Rhodia corporationGlue) or Aqualon companyHP (hydroxypropyl guar) is sold under the name.

The cationic galactomannan gum preferably has a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq/g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq/g. The charge density can be determined by Kjeldahl method. Which generally corresponds to a pH of about 3 to 9.

Generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" refers to any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups which can ionize into cationic groups.

Preferred cationic groups are selected from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gum used typically has a molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 x 10 ⁶ Between, and preferably about 10 ³ Up to 3X 10 ⁶ Weight average molecular mass in between.

Cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, those comprising tri (C _1-4 ) A gum of alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% of the hydroxyl functional number of these gums has trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, i.e. guar gum modified with 2, 3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, for example.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums, modified with cationic groups are products known per se and are described, for example, in the patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307. Furthermore, these products are known in particular from Rhodia under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, jaguar C13S, jaguar C15, jaguar C17 and Jaguar C17Jaguar CI 62 (guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), available from Degussa Corp Guar (Guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) is named and +.>3000 (guar hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride) is sold under the name.

Anionic guar useful according to the present invention is a polymer comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenamic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acids. The anionic groups are preferably carboxylic acid groups. The anionic groups may also be in the form of acid salts, in particular sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salts.

The anionic guar which can be used according to the invention is preferably a carboxymethyl guar derivative (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Locust bean

Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree (carob bean, ceratonia siliqua).

Unmodified locust bean gum which can be used in the present invention is for example produced by Cargill company as Viscobium ^TM Named by Unipektin, vidogum L, and DaniscoLBG is sold under the name.

Representative of chemically modified locust bean gum useful in the present invention can be, for example, cationic locust bean gum sold by the company Toho under the name of Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride).

Tara adhesive

Tara gums useful in the context of the present invention are sold, for example, by Unipektin under the name Vidougum SP.

Other polysaccharides

Among the other polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of chitin (poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, beta (1, 4) -2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethyl chitin, etc.), such as those sold by franke-Chitine company; glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylan (or arabinoxylan) and derivatives.

Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, both classified under the pentosan name. Xylan consists of a main chain and side chains of β (1, 4) -linked D-xylose units, and three substituents are present on the main chain (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, alpha-L-arabinofuranose units, said side chains may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

Carrageenan is an anionic polysaccharide constituting the cell wall of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the following families: the families of the family of the genus Cephalophyceae (Gigartinaceae), sha Caike (Hypneaceae), furcelliaceae (Furcelliaceae), and Polyideaceae (Polyideaceae). They are typically obtained by extraction (hot aqueous extraction) from hot aqueous solutions in the natural plants of the algae. These linear polymers formed from disaccharide units consist of two D-galactopyranose units, alternately linked by alpha (1, 3) and beta (1, 4) linkages. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α -D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3, 6-anhydro form. Several types of carrageenan are distinguished by the number and position of sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, namely: kappa-carrageenan having one sulfate group, iota-carrageenan having two sulfate groups, and lambda-carrageenan having three sulfate groups.

Carrageenan consists essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts of polysaccharide sulfate.

Carrageenan is especially manufactured by SEPPIC companyIs named by Gelymar Inc. in +.>And->For name, by Cargill corporation as Satiagel ^TM And Satiagnum (Satiagnum) ^TM Is named and +.>And->Is sold for the name.

Agar is a galactose polysaccharide contained in the cell walls of some of the red algae (rhodophyceae) of these species. They are formed from polymer groups whose basic backbones are β (1, 3) D-galactopyranose and α (1, 4) L3-6 anhydrogalactose chains, these units being repeated regularly and alternately. Differences within the agar family are attributed to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are typically present in variable percentages, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season.

Agar-agar is used at a concentration of 40,000 to 300 g.mol ^-1 A mixture of high molecular mass polysaccharides (agarose and sepharose). It is obtained by: algae extracts are made, typically by autoclaving and by treating these liquids containing about 2% agar-agar to extract the latter.

Agar is for example named by the B & V Agar generators group under the name Gold Agar, by Hispar company under the names Agarite and Grand Agar, and by Setexam company under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (quick dissolving Agar, quick Soluble Agar) and Puragar.

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyglycoside based on an oligoglycoside unit (tetraglycoside) consisting of 4 sugars. The proportion is 2:1:1, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid are present in the gellan gum in the form of monomeric elements.

According to the present invention, although various natural polysaccharides may be used, it is preferable to use natural polysaccharides having a relatively low or medium molecular weight. For example, among the above natural polysaccharides, preferred natural polysaccharides have a molecular weight of 5,000 to 500,000, preferably 10,000 to 200,000, or preferably 30,000 to 100,000.

The natural polysaccharide may be present in an amount of, for example, 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt% and more preferably 0.2 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Component B), emulsifier

It is thus a subject of the present invention to provide liquid-crystal emulsions formed from the compositions according to the invention. The composition according to the invention may preferably be in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. Thus, the composition preferably comprises an emulsifier selected from amphoteric or anionic surfactants.

Amphoteric surfactants

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amphoteric surfactant" is intended to encompass those surfactants conventionally referred to as both "amphoteric surfactants" and "zwitterionic surfactants".

The amphoteric surfactant may be selected from (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines (also known as ultraines), (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) Alkylbetaines, e.g. cocamidopropyl betaine, and (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines, amino acids such as glycine, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl amphoacetates, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl amphodiacetates, lecithins, salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

As (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine, such as those described by Cognis as DEHYTON, may be mentionedProducts sold for the name; lauryl betaines, e.g. by Clariant as GENAGEN->Products sold for the name; oxyethylenelauryl betaine (10 EO), e.g. from Shin Nihon Rica as LAURYLETHER (10 EO)>Products sold for the name; stearyl oxyethylenebetaine (10 EO), e.g. by Shin Nihon Rica as STEARYLETHER (10 EO)>Is a product sold by name.

At (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) Among the alkyl betaines, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaines, such as those described by Sanyo under the LEBON 2000Products sold for name, by Albright&Wilson with EMPIGEN->Products sold under the names Tego Betain F50 and CK D by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT; or further, other products sold as a mixture with glycerol laurate, such as the commercial name Tego Betain HS or anti HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT; lauramidopropyl betaines, e.g. by Witco in REWOTERIC Is a product sold by name. In a particular embodiment, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) The alkyl betaines are preferably selected from (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamidopropyl betaine.

As sulfobetaines (sultains), there may be mentioned (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines; alkyl (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Amidoalkyl (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) SulfobetainesAlkyl (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Amidoalkyl (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) Hydroxysulfobetaines, e.g. cocoamidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine, e.g. as crosultaine by CrodaIs a product sold by name.

As (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl Polyaminocarboxylates (APAC) may be mentioned sodium cocoyl polyaminocarboxylates, such as those obtainable from Akzo Nobel as AMPHOLAK 7And AMPHOLAK 7->Products sold for the name; sodium stearoyl polyamidocarboxylate, such as the product sold by akzo nobel under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX/C; sodium carboxymethyl oleyl polyallylamine, e.g. as AMPHOLAK by akzo nobel>Is a product sold by name. As C ₈ -C ₂₀ Alkylamphoacetates, for example N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-disodium salt (CTFA name: cocoyl amphodiacetate disodium salt), such as those described by Rhodia Chimie as MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE>Products sold for the name; and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl amphoacetate), such as the product sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Rewoteric AM C.

As C ₈ -C ₂₀ Alkyl amphodiacetates, mention may be made of disodium cocoyl amphodiacetate, disodium lauroyl amphodiacetate, disodium caproyl amphodiacetate, disodium capryloyl amphodiacetate, disodium cocoyl amphodipropionate, disodium lauroyl amphodipropionate, and caproyl amphodiylDisodium dipropionate, disodium octanoyl amphodipropionate, lauroyl amphodipropionic acid, and cocoyl amphodipropionic acid. Examples which may be mentioned include the products available from Rhodia IncC2M Concentrate is cocoyl amphodiacetate sold under trade name.

Among lecithins, phospholipids and lysophospholipids can be mentioned. Mention may be made in particular of lecithins, such as the products sold by the NIKKKOL group (Lecinol series) or other egg phosphino lipids sold by CARGIL/LUCAS MEYER (EMULMITIKS series).

In particular, lecithin derivatives may be preferably used. Hydrogenated lecithins can be used particularly advantageously.

Anionic surfactants

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound having a hydrophobic portion and a hydrophilic portion, wherein the hydrophilic portion carries only anionic groups in the form of ionic groups or ionizable groups, with a cationic counterion, typically metallic (alkali metal such as Na or K) or ammonium, which is capable of dissociating to provide anions in aqueous solution.

More particularly the anionic groups of the anionic surfactant belong to the group selected from: c (O) OH, -C (O) O ^- 、-SO ₃ H、-S(O) ₂ O ^- 、-OS(O) ₂ OH、-OS(O) ₂ O ^- 、-P(O)OH ₂ 、-P(O) ₂ O ^- 、-P(O)O ₂ ^- 、-P(OH) ₂ 、＝P(O)OH、-P(OH)O ^- 、＝P(O)O ^- 、＝POH、＝PO ^- The counter anion (counter) is typically selected from organic cations such as ammonium salts, amine salts, or amino alkoxides, such as alkali metals, such as sodium, or alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, or counter anions.

As anionic surfactants there may be mentioned surfactants comprising: carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, hydroxyethylsulfonate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactoyl lactate or taurate anionic groups, salts of fatty acids, salts of galactose iduronic acid (galactosiduronic acids), salts of ether carboxylic acid surfactants and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the anionic surfactant according to the invention is selected from:

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl sulphates, (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl ether sulphates, (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl amide ether sulfate, alkyl aryl polyether sulfate or monoglyceride sulfate; for this type of anionic surfactant preferably (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates or mixtures. Mention may be made of the sulphates of ethers of lauryl alcohol and alkylene oxides, containing from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups.

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl sulfonate, (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkylamide sulfonate, (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl phosphates;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl sulfosuccinates (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates or (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl amide sulfosuccinates;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl sulfoacetates;

·(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Acyl sarcosinates;

·(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Acyl glutamate;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic acid ether (alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers);

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Alkyl sulfosuccinamates;

·(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Acyl isethionates, e.g. lauroyl methyl sulfonateSodium isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate (sodium cocoyl isthionate); mention may be made of sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, which is under the trade nameLQ-CLR-SB is sold by Innospec Active Chemicals company;

·N-[(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Acyl group]Taurine salts;

salts of fatty acids;

·(C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Acyl lactyllactate;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Salts of alkyl-D-galactose iduronic acid;

·(C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Salts of alkyl polyoxyalkylene ether carboxylic acids, (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Salts of alkylaryl polyoxyalkylene ether carboxylic acids or (C) ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Salts of alkylamide polyoxyalkylene ether carboxylic acids;

and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl or acyl groups of these various anionic surfactants preferably contain 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

In addition, the oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylene anionic surfactant preferably comprises from 1 to 50 oxyalkylene groups, more preferably from 1 to 4 oxyalkylene groups, in particular oxyethylene groups.

According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the one or more anionic surfactants may comprise at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof, including, for example, at least one C-based ₁₆ -C ₂₂ A chain of hydrocarbons.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the one or more anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function are selected from (C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ ) Alkyl sulfonate, (C) ₁₆ -C ₂₂ ) Alkylamide sulfonate, (C) ₁₆ -C ₂₂ ) Alkylaryl sulfonates, (C) ₁₆ -C ₃ ) Alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl (C) ₁₆ -C ₂₂ )-N-(C ₁ -C ₆ ) Alkyl taurates, (C) ₁₆ -C ₂₂ ) Acyl isethionates (C) ₁₆ -C ₂₂ ) Alkyl sulfolaurates and mixtures thereof

Preferably, the one or more anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function are selected from:

-acyl isethionates, linear or branched acyl groups containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

-N-acyl-N-alkyl taurates, linear or branched acyl groups containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and linear or branched alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic groups containing from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl group,

-and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition may be free of any sulfate salt used as an anionic surfactant. For example, the anionic surfactant may be a taurate salt, such as sodium methyl stearyl taurate.

N-acyl-N-alkyl taurates may also be preferred, mention may be made of the N-acyl-N-alkyl taurates available from Nikkol company as NikkolSodium palmitoyl methyl taurate sold under the name; sodium N-stearoyl N-methyltaurine sold by Nikkol under the name Nikkol SMT.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the one or more acyl glutamates are selected from acyl glutamates wherein the acyl group comprises 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

Examples of acyl glutamate which may be mentioned in particular include palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoyl glutamate, behenoyl glutamate, olive glutamate and salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts of the acids, such as Na, li or K salts and preferably Na or K salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as Mg salts or ammonium salts.

Mention may be made, for example, of compounds named sodium stearyl glutamate, sodium olive glutamate and mixtures thereof.

As acyl glutamate, mention may also be made of sodium stearyl glutamate, such as the product sold by the company Ajinomoto under the designation Acylglutamate HS 11, and disodium stearyl glutamate hydride, such as the product sold by the company Ajinomoto under the designation Acylglutamate HS-21.

Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that the use of both an amphoteric surfactant and an anionic surfactant may be particularly advantageous in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention. In particular, its simultaneous use may be particularly beneficial for the stability as well as the heat resistance of the formulated composition. Further to this additional advantageous object, the amphoteric surfactant and the anionic surfactant may be used in a ratio of from 2:8 to 8:2, preferably from 4:6 to 6:4 by weight.

The emulsifier may be present in an amount of, for example, 0.1 to 3 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 3 wt% and more preferably 0.2 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solvent(s)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solvent. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be provided, for example, in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase.

Preferably, both component a) (i.e. the natural polysaccharide) and component B) (i.e. the emulsifier) are introduced into the aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase may contain water and hydrophilic adjuvants (co-solvents, actives and additives). The water preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises water in an amount of 55% to 95% by weight, preferably 70% to 90% by weight and preferably 50% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water used may be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lyme flower water (lime blossom water) and/or natural spring water or mineral water, for example: vittel water, vichy basin water, uria water, roche Posay water, bourbule water, enghien-les-Bains water, saint Gervais-les-Bains water, naeris-les-Bains water, allevar-les-Bains water, digne water, maizires water, neyrac-les-Bains water, lons-le-Saunier water, eaux Bonnes water, rochefort water, saint Christ water, fumades water, tercis-les-Bains water, and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., which reconstituted spring water has the characteristics of.

Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25 ℃), such as monohydric alcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol; the polyols have in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), for example mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the water-miscible polyol at room temperature is present in a content of 1% to 15% by weight, and preferably 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preservative agent

For use in the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one preservative. Preferably, the preservative may be present in the aqueous phase. The preservative useful according to the present invention may be any of those conventionally used in cosmetics, particularly in facial masks.

For example, preservatives that may be used in accordance with the present invention include methyl chloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives such as DMDMH, parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorobenzeneglycolether, benzoic acid and salts thereof such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino acid-based preservatives, sorbitan octoate (sorbitan octanate), glyceryl octoate, and the like.

Preferably, the preservative is present in an amount of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 3%, preferably 0.3% to 1%, based on the weight of the composition.

Component C), wax

The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax as component C).

Waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds which are solid at room temperature (25 ℃) and have a state change which is reversible in solid/liquid, a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ℃, preferably greater than or equal to 40 ℃, which can be up to 200 ℃ and in particular up to 120 ℃.

Wherein the waxes in the composition according to the invention preferably have a regular long carbon chain structure, such as in particular C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ Fatty alcohols.

Preferably, available C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ The fatty alcohol may be a saturated fatty alcohol having a hydrocarbon-based chain.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "saturated" fatty alcohol refers to any alcohol comprising a chain based on a linear saturated (without covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon, in particular a linear alkyl group, said chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based chain" refers to an organic group consisting essentially of or even consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

Advantageously, C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ The fatty alcohol is selected from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ Fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ Fatty alcohols.

One or more saturated C's as used in the context of the present invention ₁₆ -C ₂₂ The fatty alcohol is chosen in particular from cetyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol (C) ₁₆ ) Stearyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol (C) ₁₈ ) Or behenyl alcohol (C) ₃ ) Which is solid at room temperature and advantageously carries a chain end-OH group.

Particularly preferably, one or more alcohols selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof will be used, such as cetostearyl alcohol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises C ₁₆ And C ₁₈ A mixture of fatty alcohols; in particular, the composition comprises cetostearyl alcohol.

More preferably C ₁₆ And C ₁₈ Mixture of fatty alcohols at 2080 to 80/20C ₁₆ /C ₁₈ Mass ratio and advantageously at a C equal to 50/50 ₁₆ /C ₁₈ The mass ratio is used.

The wax may be present in an amount of, for example, 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 5 wt% and more preferably 1 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the emulsifier and the wax are used in a ratio of 1/2 to 1/15, preferably 1/3 to 1/10, or 1/3 to 1/5 by weight.

Oil phase

As described above, for example, the composition according to the present invention may be provided in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase. Thus, component C) (i.e. the wax) is preferably present in the oil phase.

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one oil in an oil phase.

Oil (oil)

According to the invention, the term "oil" refers to any fat body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips in less than 1 hour at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

More specifically, the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has a concentration of 0.01mg/em ² Per min to 200mg/cm ² Evaporation rate/min (inclusive).

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

More particularly, the non-volatile oil has a content strictly lower than 0.01mg/cm ² Evaporation rate per min.

To measure the evaporation rate, 15g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer having a diameter of 7cm, the crystallizer beingIs placed at a temperature of 25 ℃ and a humidity of 0.3m with a relative humidity of 50% ³ On a balance in a large chamber of (a). The liquid was free to evaporate by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) which was located vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades facing the crystallizer and at a distance of 20em from the bottom of the crystallizer, without stirring. The mass of oil retained in the crystallizer was measured at regular intervals. In units of surface area (cm) ² ) And milligrams of oil evaporated per time unit (minutes) represent the evaporation rate.

Oils suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one (at least on) si—o group.

The term "fluorooil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that contains primarily hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

In particular, the volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ Alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example under the trade nameOr->Oil sold. />

As volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may also be made of straight-chain C ₉ -C ₁₇ Alkanes, e.g. respectively under the name12-97 and->Dodecane (C) sold by 14-97 (Sasol) ₁₂ ) And tetradecane (C) ₁₄ ) And alkanes obtained according to the method described in International application WO 2007/068371 A1, e.g. under the name +.>Undecane (C) sold by UT (Cognis) ₁₁ ) And tridecane (C) ₁₃ ) And (3) a mixture.

The non-volatile oil may be chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of:

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydro squalene,

-hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as plant sterol esters, for example plant sterol oleate, plant sterol isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/plant sterol glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS 203); diesters, such as diisopropyl sebacate; triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular wherein the fatty acids may have C ₄ To C ₃₆ And in particular C ₁₈ To C ₃₆ Chain lengths in the range, these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may be in particular heptanoic or caprylic triglyceride, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candelilla oil, passion flower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, monkey oil, barre oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil (hemp oil), rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, white pool seed oil, holjohnella oil, gardenia oil, seed oil, almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, safflower oil, hemp seed oil (hemp oil)Blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio seed oil, pumpkin oil, winter pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by STEARINERIES DUBOIS company or by DYNAMIT NOBEL company under the name MIGLYOL And->Those that are sold are offered for sale,

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam, squalane;

-synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters, e.g. of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ Wherein R is ₁ Represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ Or R is ₂ Greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen in particular from esters of fatty acids and alcohols, for example: cetyl octanoate, isopropyl octanoate (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate), ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters (e.g., isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate), diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate (and especially isostearyl heptanoate), alcohol or polyol octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate (e.g., propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate), 4-diheptanoate 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C benzoate ₁₂ -C ₁₅ Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, pivalates (e.g. isodecyl pivalate, isotenth pivalate)Trialkyl esters, isostearyl pivalate or octyldodecyl pivalate), isononanoate esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate), hydroxylated esters (e.g., isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate);

polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxy stearate/tetraisostearate,

esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, for example Lusplan sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338 And Lusplan->

Copolymers of diol dimers and diacid dimers and esters thereof, for example copolymers of dilinol diol dimer/dilinol acid dimer and esters thereof, for example Plandol-G,

copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA, or copolymers of dilinoleic acid/butanediol,

fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and have branched and/or unsaturated carbon chains having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

-C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and

-a dialkyl carbonate having the following formula (I):

wherein R is ₁ And R is ₂ Identical or different, each represent a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to one embodiment, in formula (I), R ₁ And R is ₂ And, similarly, represents a straight hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the dialkyl carbonate is dioctyl carbonate.

In one embodiment, the carbonate is dioctyl carbonate. The two alkyl chains may be identical, e.g. by COGNIS under the name CETIOLDioctyl carbonate is sold.

-an oil having a relatively high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass in the range of about 400g/mol to about 10,000g/mol, in particular about 650g/mol to about 10,000g/mol, in particular about 750g/mol to about 7500g/mol and more in particular in the range of about 1000g/mol to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of higher molar mass which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of oils selected from the group consisting of:

a lipophilic polymer, which is a polymer of the formula,

linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70,

a hydroxylated ester of the hydroxyl group of the polyester,

an aromatic ester of the formula (I),

·C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols,

An oil of vegetable origin,

-and mixtures thereof: and

Mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises dioctyl carbonate and/or octyldodecanol as oil.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention is free of silicone oil.

As described above, for the purposes of the present invention, "oil" is distinguished from "wax". To formulate the emulsion, it is advantageous to use both wax and oil in the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one oil (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Method and use

The composition according to the invention may be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. However, it is to be understood that the skilled person may choose a preparation method based on his general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the ingredients used, such as their solubility in the vehicle and the envisaged application for the composition or compositions.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be used for caring keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular sensitive skin. The use may manifest itself in a method of caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular sensitive skin, comprising the steps of compounding the composition and subsequently applying the composition thus obtained to said skin.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not thereby limiting in scope.

Examples

The amounts/concentrations of ingredients in the following compositions/formulations are expressed in weight percent relative to the total weight of each composition/formulation.

Example 1

Inventive compositions A1 to A3 and comparative compositions B1 to B3 were prepared.

TABLE 1

The procedure for preparing the compositions in table 1 included:

1) Mixing the components of the aqueous phase, adding the aqueous phase to a main kettle at room temperature and heating to 80 ℃, and stirring until uniform; and

2) The oil phase components were introduced into the main kettle, heated to 85 ℃, and mixed until uniform.

Example 2

The properties of inventive compositions A1 to A3 and comparative compositions B1 to B3 were determined.

The compositions were subjected to the skin irritation (Epi-skin) test. In this in vitro test, compositions A1 to A3 and comparative compositions B1 to B3 were each applied to the Epi-skin model in an amount of 5 grams. A stimulus (lactic acid, conventionally used in the art as a stimulus) was then added to the model. For comparison, individual stimuli were also applied, as well as a simple combination of water and stimuli in a weight ratio of 1:9, each in an amount of 1 g.

After 24 hours, cell viability of the Epi-skin model was assessed. The results are shown in fig. 1.

In fig. 1 and 2, samples labeled "ex.1" to "ex.3" in the figures represent compositions A1 to A3, and samples labeled "ce.1" to "ce.3" in the figures represent compositions B1 to B3.

In FIG. 1, compositions A1, A2 and A3 showed good cell viability (both greater than 50%) in the Epi-skin model, while compositions B1, B2 and B3 showed poor performance in terms of cell viability in the Epi-skin model.

Example 3

To further observe the structure of the compositions, cryo-SEM was used to study compositions A2 and B2.

Referring to fig. 2, it is clearly seen that in composition A2, both liquid crystals and natural polysaccharides can be observed, whereas in composition B2 only the liquid crystal structure is found. No network structure was observed in composition B2.

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present disclosure. In addition, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments of the disclosure, but as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of modification or variation within the scope of the concepts as expressed herein commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The above description is further intended to explain the best modes known for practicing the disclosure and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses disclosed herein. Accordingly, this description is not intended to limit the disclosure to the form disclosed herein. It is also intended that the appended claims be construed to include alternative embodiments.

All publications, patents, and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference and for any and all purposes as if each individual publication, patent, or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of inconsistencies, the present disclosure will control.

Claims

1. A composition comprising the following components:

a) Natural polysaccharides having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 500,000;

b) An emulsifier selected from amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants; and

c) And (3) wax.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the natural polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides made by microorganisms and polysaccharides from higher plants, preferably from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, such as scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the natural polysaccharide has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 200,000, or preferably 30,000 to 100,000.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising an amphoteric surfactant, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaines, such as (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) Alkylbetaines, e.g. cocamidopropyl Betaine, and (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₁ -C ₆ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines; amino acids such as glycine, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl polyaminocarboxylates; (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl amphoacetates, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl amphodiacetates; lecithin; salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, such as hydrogenated lecithin.

5. The composition according to claim 4, further comprising an anionic surfactant.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts of: carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactoyl lactate or taurate.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifier is present in an amount of from 0.1 to 3 wt%, preferably from 0.2 to 3 wt% and more preferably from 0.2 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the wax is selected from C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ Fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ Fatty alcohols, or preferably C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ Fatty alcohols.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the wax is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol, for example at a C of 20/80 to 80/20 ₁₆ /C ₁₈ Mass ratio.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax is present in an amount of from 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt% and more preferably from 1 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifier and wax are used in a ratio of from 1/2 to 1/15, preferably from 1/3 to 1/10, or from 1/3 to 1/5 by weight.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is provided in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase comprising component a) and component B) and an oil phase comprising component C).

13. Use of a composition according to any of the preceding claims for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular sensitive skin.