CN117084953A - 毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物 - Google Patents
毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或者皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物。本发明涉及毛发护理和毛发清洁组合物以及皮肤护理和皮肤清洁组合物,其包含具有天然来源且从植物获得的纤维材料。所述纤维材料包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物。该组合物在施用期间和之后显示出令人愉快的皮肤感觉和舒适性,以及快速干燥并快速吸收到皮肤中。所获得的组合物还特别良好地适用于将化妆品和药物活性物质表面递送到皮肤中。此外,公开了用于获得所述毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或者所述皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物的方法。
Description
本申请是申请号为201880023172.7、发明名称为“个人护理组合物”的中国专利申请的分案申请,该母案申请是2018年4月5日提交的PCT国际专利申请PCT/EP2018/058749进入中国国家阶段的申请。
技术领域
本发明涉及毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或者皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物形式的个人护理组合物以及用于产生这样的个人护理组合物的方法。这样的个人护理组合物例如以凝胶、乳膏-凝胶、肥皂、洗发香波、化妆品、凝胶面膜等形式使用。
背景技术
已知大量多种的用于皮肤和毛发护理的个人护理组合物。个人护理组合物通常出于化妆品、药妆品(cosmeceutical)或药物目的而表面地施用。个人护理组合物的期望特性尤其包括在施用期间和在施用之后令人愉快的皮肤感觉和舒适性,以及快速干燥特性。因此,通过皮肤的快速吸收和优异的成膜(film-forming)特性是个人护理组合物的一些重要特征。
许多个人护理组合物包含天然和/或合成纤维,这是由于其众多有益的感官特征,例如对于皮肤的令人愉快的施用、最小的润湿感觉、轻微的凉爽效果、没有油腻以及没有发黏的感觉。此外,纤维可用作粘合成分并且通常具有良好的干燥特性,并且在许多情况下对皮肤具有抗刺激性作用。
EP 1 243 250公开了纤维作为抗刺激性成分在化妆品或皮肤病学组合物中的用途。提出了广泛的选择,包括合成纤维和具有天然来源的纤维。
US 6,342,237 B1公开了一种化妆组合物,其中纤维与至少一种成膜聚合物的水性分散体组合。
WO 99/20241A1、US 6,534,071 B1、EP 1 245 223A1和WO 2016/166179A1也各自公开了纤维素原纤(fibril)在个人护理组合物中的用途。存在于这些组合物中的原纤被各自分离且彼此分开,这需要通过高剪切或高压匀浆化装置将组合物匀浆化。
此外,已知包含微晶纤维素的个人护理组合物。微晶纤维素是通过使纤维素进行纯酸水解而产生的。微原纤化纤维素的无定形区(amorphous region)被选择性水解,这是因为与结晶区域(crystalline domain)相比,它们更容易被酸攻击。因此,这些微原纤分解成具有高结晶度的较短结晶部分。相比之下,微原纤化纤维素仍然由无定形区和结晶区组成(Adv.Nat.Sci.:Nanosci.Nanotechnol.7(2016),035004)。
实际上,在许多情况下和特别是当使用如上面列举的现有技术中所描述的原纤时,所获得的组合物在施用期间不能提供期望的皮肤感觉和舒适性,而是其特征在于当施用至皮肤时的润湿感觉、干燥时间长以及发生起球。这些不期望的特性使得天然原纤在个人护理中的实施缓慢且困难。
此外,EP 0819787 A2公开了具有确定长度和直径的纤维素原纤作为混合稳定剂在大量多种应用中的一般性用途。然而,在该文件中没有公开原纤在个人护理组合物中的用途。
发明内容
本发明的一个目的是提供个人护理组合物,其在其对皮肤和/或毛发的应用方面,特别是就使用者所感知到的感觉而言具有改进特性。
该目的通过如权利要求1所要求保护的毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或者皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物解决。该组合物的另一些优选实施方案在从属权利要求2至12中提供。用于产生这样的个人护理组合物的方法在权利要求13中要求保护,并且在从属权利要求14和15中提供了这种方法的另一个优选实施方案。
本发明提供了包含具有天然来源且从植物中获得的纤维材料的毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或者皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物形式的个人护理组合物,其中所述纤维材料包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物。
在个人护理组合物中提供包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料导致具有良好干燥特性的结构良好且无刺激性的个人护理组合物。
此外,已发现根据本发明的个人护理组合物显示出与广泛选择的已知化妆品和药物成分的良好相容性,并且这些化妆品和药物成分的配制可在不借助于高剪切转子-定子或高压匀浆器的情况下进行,并且在配制过程中的任何时间都不需要加热。
纤维材料包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,这意味着原始纤维素材料的独立纤维和特别是微原纤被粉碎,并且至少部分或完全地彼此分离而存在,其中分离的微原纤由于相互联合而特别形成原纤附聚物。这些附聚物的平均长度在下面进一步表明。存在于原纤附聚物内的微原纤与纤维素的原始纤维结构完全分离,并且由于相互黏附而彼此互相连接,使得它们形成共同的结构,特别是网状物。
在微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物内,独立的微原纤强烈地相互作用,这意味着构成附聚物的原纤彼此解离将需要使用例如高压匀浆器,通常通过使液体(优选为水性介质)和包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的分散体数次通过所述高压匀浆器。在本发明的上下文中,这样的高压匀浆器条件通常不应用于个人护理组合物。
如已提及的,由于微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的存在,个人护理组合物具有良好的干燥特性。具体地,注意到组合物是快速干燥的,并且正在发生快速吸收。此外,个人护理组合物通常具有良好的成膜特性。在“快速干燥”的情况下优选意指这样的干燥过程,其足够快以至于在组合物被施用至皮肤之后对润湿皮肤感觉的感知在约30秒内消失,更特别地在约20秒内消失。在“快速吸收”的情况下优选意指该组合物在约20秒之后,更特别地是在约10秒之后不会在皮肤上留下任何明显的残余物,其中残余物的存在通常与油腻感、脂肪感、发黏感或皮肤上物质堆积的感觉相关。在“成膜特性”的情况下优选意指组合物在干燥后形成膜的能力,所述膜赋予皮肤或毛发以光滑、丝滑的外观,并且为使用者提供该组合物针对环境公害的增强的保护作用的印象。
在本发明的进一步发展中,微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,更优选地纤维材料,并且甚至更优选地个人护理组合物,基本上不含可见的分离原纤,特别是完全不含可见的分离原纤。已发现,通过在微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物中,更优选地在纤维材料中,并且甚至更优选地在个人护理组合物中不存在可见的分离原纤,可实现个人护理组合物在皮肤上的特别丝滑的感觉。这样的感觉也可在用于毛发护理的组合物中(例如当用手将该产品在毛发中散开时)注意到。使用者具有该组合物针对环境公害的增强的保护作用的印象。
优选地,如果个人护理组合物中基本上所有可能存在的原纤被关联成微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,则意味着该个人护理组合物“基本上不含可见的分离原纤”。具体地,如果可见的分离原纤优选地代表个人护理组合物的可见颗粒的总数的不多于百分之五,更优选地不多于百分之一,则意味着该个人护理组合物“基本上不含可见的分离原纤”。
优选地,如果纤维材料中基本上所有可能存在的原纤被关联成微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,则意味着该纤维材料“基本上不含可见的分离原纤”。具体地,如果可见的分离原纤优选地代表纤维材料的可见颗粒的总数的不多于百分之五,更优选地不多于百分之一,则意味着该纤维材料“基本上不含可见的分离原纤”。
优选地,如果微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物中的基本上所有可能存在的原纤被关联成微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,则意味着该微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物“基本上不含可见的分离原纤”。具体地,如果可见的分离原纤优选地代表可见的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的总数的不多于百分之五,更优选地不多于百分之一,则意味着该微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物基本上不含可见的分离原纤。
当通过电子显微镜(例如透射电子显微镜或扫描电子显微镜)在放大倍数为10’000倍以及分辨率为100纳米下观察材料时,如果分离的原纤本身可被容易地识别,则意味着其是可见的。
不受理论的束缚,认为上文中提及的显著的感官特征至少部分与组合物包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的事实相关联。如果组合物基本上不含可见的分离原纤,优选的完全不含可见的分离原纤,则这些感官特征将进一步增强。这样的组合物通常具有保水(water retention)和释水(water release)行为,这在许多情况下对于其在个人护理产品中的应用而言是有利的。
微米级原纤附聚物的平均长度优选为500nm至1000μm,更优选500nm至600μm,甚至更优选500nm至200μm。纳米级原纤附聚物的平均长度优选为10nm至500nm。微米级原纤附聚物的平均长度的评估优选地通过2006年11月1日的第1版的标准ISO 13322-2进行,其作为引用并入本文。包含这样的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
纤维材料的颗粒总数的优选至少1%,更优选至少10%,甚至更优选至少20%,甚至更优选至少40%,甚至更优选至少50%,甚至更优选至少60%,甚至更优选至少70%,甚至更优选至少80%,甚至更优选至少90%,最优选100%的平均长度为500nm至1000μm,更优选500nm至600μm,甚至更优选500nm至200μm。纤维材料的颗粒不但包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,而且可存在原纤以及纤维材料其他可能的组分。所述平均长度的百分比优选地通过2006年11月1日的第1版的标准ISO 13322-2确定。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
纤维材料的颗粒总数的优选至少1%,更优选至少10%,甚至更优选至少20%,甚至更优选至少40%,甚至更优选至少50%,甚至更优选至少60%,甚至更优选至少70%,甚至更优选至少80%,甚至更优选至少90%,最优选100%的平均长度为10nm至500nm。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料优选地包含40至450m2/g的表面积,更优选50至400m2/g的表面积,甚至更优选60至400m2/g的表面积,最优选80至350m2/g的表面积。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。对于所述表面的测量,优选地使用包括步骤“样品制备I”、“样品制备II”和“氮吸附性能的测量/包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的表面积的计算”的以下方法:
样品制备I
将约20g的包含2重量%的含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的纤维分散体称重到50ml Falcon管中。添加乙醇(94%)直到达到Falcon管的50ml体积。在此之后,通过涡旋混合器混合Falcon管的内容物。在此之后,将样品通过离心机(例如,TypHettich Rotina 380mit6-fach Winkelrotor 45°)在10分钟期间以5000l/分钟离心。在此之后,除去滤液并再次将乙醇(94%)填充到空体积中。在此之后,将Falcon管的内容物用玻璃棒搅拌。在此之后,通过涡旋混合器再次使样品松散并以与如上提及的相同的参数进行离心。该程序重复5次。
随后,通过在例如Tousimis Autosamdri 931的装置中的超临界CO2干燥样品来确定样品的残留水分。
样品制备II
将根据按照样品制备I的方法脱水的样品称重到玻璃管中。在将样品称重到玻璃管中之前,将玻璃管干燥并在其为空的时候称重。之后,将玻璃管所包含的样品在至少105℃下在至少24小时期间脱气。
氮吸附性能的测量/包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的表面积的
计算
包含脱气样品的玻璃管(其中通过样品制备II进行脱气)现在被布置在合适的测量装置(例如Micromeritics 3Flex版本3.01)中以确定氮吸附等温线。样品质量例如为0.0777g,但是由于测量装置的类型或由于具体的样品,样品质量可能偏离所述样品质量。用于进行测量的氮气和氦气的纯度为99.999%。测量结果以m2/g(m2/1g)计算至小数点后一位。结果的计算值基于本领域技术人员已知的根据Brunauer、Emmett和Teller的BET-方法。
由包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料所包含的颗粒的长度的D90值优选为1至200μm,更优选30至150μm,甚至更优选40至140μm。由纤维材料所包含的颗粒的长度的D90值指示了纤维材料的90%颗粒的最大长度。D90值的计算是本领域技术人员已知的。颗粒长度优选地通过2006年11月1日的第1版的标准ISO 13322-2确定。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
由包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料所包含的颗粒的厚度的D90值优选为0.5至20μm,更优选1至10μm,甚至更优选1至8μm。由纤维材料所包含的颗粒的厚度的D90值指示了纤维材料的90%颗粒的最大厚度。D90值的计算是本领域技术人员已知的。颗粒的厚度优选地通过2006年11月1日的第1版的标准ISO 13322-2确定。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的保水值优选为100至700重量%,更优选150重量%至600重量%,甚至更优选170重量%至500重量%,其中保水值根据在《T.Wolfinger,Dreidimensionale Strukturanalyse und Modellierung des Kraft-Dehnungsverhaltens von Fasergefügen,TU Dresden,Umweltwissenschaften,提交于2016年11月的论文》中提及的信息确定。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
在一个特别优选的实施方案中,包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料包含选自包含以下的组的特性中的至少一种,优选数种,更优选全部:微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的平均长度、纤维材料的表面积、纤维材料的颗粒的平均长度的百分比、纤维材料的保水值、纤维材料颗粒长度的D90值、纤维材料颗粒厚度的D90值。虽然没有明确提及组合的所有可能性,但其被认为是公开的。包含这样的纤维材料的个人护理组合物具有特别良好的特性。
优选地,具有天然来源的纤维材料是从植物中获得的,所述植物是例如多年生植物(例如树(包括带有果实的树及其部分、灌木及其部分)、海藻)和选自谷类作物、草和纤维蔬菜(例如豌豆和豆类(pulse))的一年生植物。
纤维材料和特别地微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物是甚至更优选地从硬木材(hardwood),更优选地从桉树(Eucalyptus tree),特别是从巴西桉树(EucalyptusUrograndis)树木,和/或从山毛榉树中获得的。已发现使用来源于桉树、特别是来源于巴西桉树和/或来源于山毛榉树的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料导致具有特别有益特性的个人护理组合物。由于在这些树木中的大量木糖,获得了具有特别令人愉悦、光滑和丝滑的皮肤感觉的个人护理组合物。此外,桉树和山毛榉树因其良好的可用性而非常适合。
优选地,纤维材料和特别地微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物分别包含相对于纤维材料总重量,特别是干纤维材料总重量,或相对于微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物总重量,特别是干微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物总重量的多于10重量%的木糖,更优选地多于15重量%的木糖,以及最优选地多于20重量%的木糖。出乎意料地发现,木糖在纤维材料中,特别是在微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物中的量,尤其是个人护理组合物的有利感官特征的原因。在这个背景下,已发现在纤维材料中,特别是在微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物中的大部分木糖导致组合物的特别光滑和丝滑的感觉。出乎意料的是,发现在微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物中较高的木糖含量比不含木糖或木糖含量低的各原纤附聚物为组合物(特别是为乳剂)提供了更好的稳定性。获得均匀的组合物导致更光滑和丝滑的感觉。与由微晶纤维素制成的组合物相比,还观察到更好的均匀性。纤维材料所包含的木糖的量优选地根据由《T.Wolfinger,Dreidimensionale Strukturanalyse und Modellierung des Kraft-Dehnungsverhaltens von Fasergefügen,TU Dresden,Umweltwissenschaften,提交于2016年11月的论文》提供的信息测量。
根据本发明的一个方面,包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料是从未经化学处理的植物浆(pulp)中获得的。未经化学处理的植物浆是指其中纤维素基团未被修饰的植物浆。
优选地,个人护理组合物包含液体。根据一个优选实施方案,所述液体包含水。更优选地,所述液体为水。
根据另一个优选实施方案,液体是质子液体。优选地,所述质子液体包含水,更优选地,所述质子液体为水。
优选地,纤维材料的至少一部分被布置在液体中,优选地分散在液体中,更优选地所有纤维材料均被布置在液体中,优选地分散在液体中。
优选地,纤维材料的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的至少一部分,更优选地纤维材料的所有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物均被布置在液体中,优选地分散在液体中。
当被布置在液体中,优选地分散在液体中时(该液体是例如水,或该液体例如是包含水的液体),独立的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物通常发生相互关联,即独立的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的吸引、黏附或相互作用,使得获得凝胶样(gel-like)材料。因此,微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,特别地如果它们被布置在包含水的液体中,更特别地如果它们被布置在为水的液体中,则实现了在许多个人护理组合物中所期望的结构(也被称为质地)。因此,个人护理组合物优选包含水和含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料,其中微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物是相关联的。相关联的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物特别良好地允许保留例如功能性成分。另一个特别有益的特征是,在添加广泛选择的化妆品、药物成分和电解质之后,这些质地保持不受影响。可以实现的材料从流体材料延伸到自立式(self-standing)凝胶样材料。
通常,如果将微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物布置在液体(其优选为水性介质,更优选为水)中,则独立的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物微弱地相互作用和相关联,这意味着它们可在中等剪切条件下(例如在20℃下以高于0.1s-1或高于1s-1的剪切速率、或在20℃下应力(stress)高于10或高于50或高于100Pa)彼此解离,这取决于组合物中的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之间的相互作用的强度和微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的水平。微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物彼此解离使得组合物在施加的应力下开始流动。
根据本发明的个人护理组合物为优选地在室温下(并且也例如在20℃或25℃或30℃下)的自立式凝胶样材料。
在本发明的上下文中,术语“自立式凝胶样材料”优选地用于描述当受到低剪切应力时基本不流动的材料。然而,当受到较高的剪切应力时,这样的材料可以流动。材料开始流动时的应力被称为屈服应力(yield stress)。屈服应力可使用叶片技术(vanetechnique)测量,其中4或6片刃状叶片(blade vane)浸入组合物中,保持恒温,并且旋转极其缓慢,通常低于0.5rpm,例如0.1rpm,同时使用流变仪将保持恒定旋转速度所需的应力测量为时间的函数。一旦组合物以施加的应力超过组合物的屈服应力的方式被叶片变形,组合物开始流动并且力减小。屈服应力在应力-时间曲线的最大值处确定。关于叶片方法的更多信息可见于A.Parker&F.Vigouroux,“Texture Profiling with the Vane:a generalmethod for characterizing the texture of soft food”,Proc.3rd Int.Symp.FoodRheol.Structure,P.Fischer,I.Marti和E.J.Windhab(编辑),131-136,2003中。适用于测量根据本发明的组合物的屈服应力的其他方法描述于J.R.Semancik,“Yield stressmeasurements using controlled stress rheometry”,TA-仪器文件RH-058,可在http://www.tainstruments.com/pdf/literature/RH058.pdf网站处和在国际标准ASTM D7836–13,“Standard Test Methods for Measurement of Yield Stress of Paints,Inks andRelated Liquid Materials”,2013中获得。
根据本发明的组合物在20℃下优选地具有约10Pa和更多,更优选地约50Pa和更多,并且最优选地约100Pa和更多的屈服应力。
根据本发明的个人护理组合物在约0.01s-1的剪切速率下,在20℃下优选地具有约100Pa·s和更多,更特别地约1000Pa·s和更多的黏度,并且当受到0.01s-1至100s-1的增加的剪切速率时,显示出黏度的至少一个数量级的明显下降。屈服应力和黏度可通过用配备有恒温器的流变仪(例如Thermo Scientific HAAKE RheoStress 6000或TAInstrumentsCSL2受控应力流变仪或等同物)进行流变性测量来测量。
有利地,个人护理组合物包含相对于组合物总重量的0.1至30重量%,优选0.5至20重量%,更优选1至10重量%的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料。本领域技术人员将容易理解,包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的水平可根据个人护理组合物的所期望的质地来选择。因此,例如,根据个人护理组合物的施用,可期望个人护理组合物是不太黏或不太液体的。优选地,个人护理组合物所包含的纤维材料的量通过标准ISO 4119,1995确定。
在本发明的上下文中,术语“个人护理组合物”优选地包括通用的皮肤护理和毛发护理产品,例如肥皂、清洁组合物、沐浴露(shower gel)、洗发香波、护发素等。它优选地还包括化妆品,例如乳膏、身体乳、面膜、化妆品和装饰产品等。术语“个人护理组合物”还包括通常表面施用的药妆品和药品。
在一个优选实施方案中,根据本发明的个人护理组合物用作凝胶、胶状物、乳膏-凝胶、精华(serum)、沙冰(sorbet)、酥膏(soufflé)或摩丝(mousse)。这些具体的物质状态与其他产品(例如乳膏、软膏和乳)的区别之处在于所述物质状态的特征在于不同的质地和外观。具体地,这些物质的状态的特征在于,随着时间的推移并且只要它们没有经受任何剪切应力,它们就能保持其形状和厚度,但是可在剪切应力的作用下(例如通过在皮肤或毛发上摩擦组合物)流动和扩散。静止时的自立式性能(behaviour)和在剪切应力下的流动性能在体系中可逆网状物形成中是典型的,而在剪切应力下的无流动性能的自立式凝胶在体系中不可逆网状物形成中是典型的。
优选地,根据本发明的个人护理组合物的物质状态的特征在于可逆的性能。
如果通过至少进行以下步骤获得包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料,则优选地实现了易于产生并且具有特别有利特性的个人护理组合物:
a.)通过机械手段粉碎干浆;
b.)使所述干的粉碎的浆分散在液体中;以及
c.)进一步粉碎在液体中的所分散的浆,以形成包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之纤维材料与液体的混合物,其特别是通过矿物材料的手段进行,其中所述混合物优选地基本上不含可见的分离原纤,更优选地完全不含可见的分离原纤。
通过至少进行步骤a.)、b.)和c.),可产生包含液体与含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之纤维材料的混合物,其优选地不含可见的分离原纤,更优选地完全不含可见的分离原纤。该混合物本身优选地用作产生具有良好干燥特性的结构良好且无刺激性的个人护理组合物的基础。
步骤a.)的干浆优选地是干浆片或经急骤干燥(flash-dried)的浆。
优选地,步骤a.)是在不添加液体的情况下进行的,即干浆,特别是干浆片或经急骤干燥的浆在不添加液体的情况下进行粉碎。
如果步骤a.)的浆所具有的含水量对于相应类型的浆是正常的,即没有大量添加水或任何其他液体,则认为该浆是干燥的。少量添加的水或另一种液体可以存在,只要它们不显著地影响浆材料总重量即可,即优选不多于15重量%,更优选不多于10重量%,甚至更优选不多于5重量%。特别在分散在液体中的情况下,浆材料不被认为是干的。干浆优选包含相对于干浆总重量的最大15重量%,更优选最大10重量%,甚至更优选1至9重量%,最优选5重量%至8重量%的水,其中含水量优选地通过1993年9月的标准EN 20638测量。
在步骤a.)中使用干浆的优点在于,在粉碎期间由于磨损可能出现的金属颗粒不会与液体一起进入到纤维中。结果是,在粉碎期间存在的可能的金属颗粒可容易地从获得的混合物中分离。混合物中的金属颗粒的存在是有问题的,尤其对于纤维材料的灰化和由此作为其结果的个人护理组合物的灰化。此外,特别是在药品、食品或化妆品中,产品中的金属颗粒的存在通常是不可接受的。
步骤c.)的进一步粉碎是例如通过机械手段例如高压匀浆化或用矿物的研磨石研磨(例如球磨(ball milling))进行的。
优选地,混合物的纤维材料总重量的至少10重量%,更优选至少20重量%,甚至更优选至少40重量%,甚至更优选至少60重量%,甚至更优选至少80重量%,甚至更优选至少90重量%,甚至更优选至少95重量%,最优选100重量%是由微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物形成的。
优选地,个人护理组合物包含一种或更多种功能性成分,其选自包含以下的组:清洁成分、质地化成分、软化成分、润肤剂、保湿成分、润滑成分、光滑成分、舒缓和放松成分、去角质成分、细胞更新和抗老化成分、除水成分、重塑成分、自由基清除剂、结构化成分、抗氧化剂;装饰成分、皮肤平整成分、脱毛成分、美白成分、除臭剂、抗细菌或细菌抑制性成分、生物防腐剂。
一种或更多种功能性成分有利地选自包含以下的组:合成聚合物、天然聚合物、溶剂、矿物和植物油、表面活性剂、脂肪酸和脂肪醇酯、C10-C24脂肪酸及其盐、C10-C24脂肪醇、α和β羟基酸及其盐、水杨酸及其盐、二羧酸及其盐、吡咯烷酮羧酸、蛋白质和肽、胶原蛋白、糖脂;磷脂;鞘脂、甾醇和类固醇、聚氧乙基甘油醚(glycerine ethoxylate)、葡糖酸钙、聚多卡醇(polidocanol)、尿素、尿囊素(allantoin)、咖啡因、吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐(pyroctone olamine)、乙酰肉碱、氨基酸及其衍生物、季胺、α-硫辛酸、碱性碱、类黄酮和异黄酮、多酚、花色素苷、矿物质、有机染料和色素、维生素及其衍生物、萜及其衍生物、倍半萜及其衍生物、三萜及其衍生物、泛醌、隔离成分(sequestering ingredient)、UV吸收成分、抗氧化剂、蜡和黄油、碳水化合物和糖醇以及它们的衍生物、除臭成分、矿物和植物颗粒、生物防腐剂、植物提取物、果汁、精油和香料。在下文中给出了功能性成分的更全面但仍不受限制的列表。
优选地,个人护理组合物包含至少一种合成或天然的亲水聚合物。所述至少一种合成或天然的亲水聚合物优选为选自包含以下的组的共聚物或三元共聚物:乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酸盐/酯共聚物、来源于(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯、(甲基)丙烯酸和丙烯酰胺基二甲基牛磺酸以及它们的盐的共聚物和交联聚合物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酰胺基烷基磺酸共聚物及其盐、黄原胶、脱氢黄原胶、瓜尔胶、阿拉伯胶、金合欢胶、菌核胶(Sclerotium gum)、长角豆胶(Ceratonia siliqua gum);短梗霉聚糖(pullulans)、聚糖、葡糖氨基聚糖(glycoaminoglycane)、卡拉胶、果胶、藻酸盐/酯、透明质酸及其盐、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、壳聚糖,及其混合物;并且其中聚合物在组合物中的水平特别地为相对于组合物总重量的0.05至10重量%,更特别地约0.1至约7重量%,还更特别地约0.25至约5重量%,例如约0.5重量%、约1重量%、约2.5重量%或约4重量%。
此外,个人护理组合物可包含一种或更多种表面活性剂。在一个优选实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物不含表面活性剂。
如已提及的,微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物和由其形成的可能存在的超结构通常与广泛选择的化妆品成分显著相容,以便这些成分的并入(特别是并入到包含附聚物的水性体系中)不需要使用高剪切混合装置(例如转子-定子混合器)或高压匀浆化装置,并且可在室温下(例如在20℃或25℃下)进行。出于相同的原因,还可通过使用这些微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物获得不含表面活性剂的组合物。根据本发明的个人护理组合物的其他成分可以是提供质地化、黏度控制、稳定性等的功能性制剂成分,和/或提供清洁;软化;润肤;保湿(hydration);润滑;平滑;舒缓;去角质;放松;细胞更新和抗老化作用;除水、重塑、自由基清除、结构化;造型(styling)、抗氧化作用;装饰效果,例如光泽,皮肤均匀度或毛发量;脱毛;美白;气味;除臭;抗细菌或细菌抑制性效果,生物保存等的化妆品成分。
下面列出了一些示例性的有用成分,其中这些成分中的一些可提供一种或更多种上述功能。
合成亲水聚合物是本发明的上下文中的有用的功能性成分,并且可选自包含以下的组:
-乙烯基和烯丙基单体的聚合物和共聚物,例如聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮;乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酸盐/酯共聚物;乙烯基吡咯烷酮/乙酸乙烯酯共聚物;聚乙烯基醇,更特别地具有85至92%水解度的水解聚乙酸乙烯酯;乙烯基酯均聚物和共聚物,例如新戊酸乙烯酯、叔碳酸乙烯酯;聚乙烯烷基胺,例如聚乙烯基甲胺;季铵化聚乙烯基烷基胺、乙烯基吡啶和季铵化乙烯基吡啶、乙烯基咪唑啉、乙烯基咪唑、乙烯基咪唑啉盐、二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵;以及乙烯基磺酸盐均聚物和共聚物;
-多胺和聚亚胺;
-乙氧基化多胺;
-来源于以下的聚合物、共聚物和交联聚合物:(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯(例如甲基丙烯酸甲酯、甲基丙烯酸乙酯、丙烯酸2-乙基己酯、甲基丙烯酸月桂酯、丙烯酸C10-C30烷基酯等)、(甲基)丙烯酸羟烷基酯(例如丙烯酸2-羟丙酯和甲基丙烯酸2-羟丙酯等);丙烯酰胺基二甲基牛磺酸盐/酯;(甲基)丙烯酸芳基酯(例如丙烯酸苯酯和丙烯酸苄酯)、(甲基)丙烯酸和丙烯酰胺基二甲基牛磺酸及其盐(例如(甲基)丙烯酸钠和(甲基)丙烯酸钾、丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠);(甲基)丙烯酰胺;N-烷基(甲基)丙烯酰胺,例如甲基丙烯酸N,N二甲基氨基烷基酯;季铵化N-烷基(甲基)丙烯酰胺,例如甲基丙烯酰胺基丙基-三甲基氯化铵;丙烯酰胺基乙基三甲基氯化铵;丙烯酰胺基月桂基三甲基氯化铵;以及(甲基)丙烯酰胺基烷基磺酸盐/酯;
-马来酸酐与乙烯基醚的共聚物,例如马来酸酐/甲基乙烯基醚共聚物;
-聚氨酯,例如阴离子、阳离子非离子和两性聚氨酯;聚脲;
-混合共聚物,例如聚氨酯与聚酯、聚丙烯酸盐/酯与聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮;聚酯;聚酯/聚酰胺共聚物;乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酰胺基烷基磺酸共聚物,例如乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酰胺基2-甲基丙烷磺酸共聚物;
-其混合物。
可用于本发明的天然亲水生物聚合物或经修饰的生物聚合物可选自包含以下的组:改性纤维素,例如羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素/月桂基二甲基氨环氧缩合物、羟丙基纤维素、阳离子纤维素(例如聚季铵盐-4)、纤维素胶、淀粉、改性淀粉(例如水解淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸盐/酯)、糊精、麦芽糖糊精、海藻糖、黄原胶、脱氢黄原胶、瓜尔胶、阿拉伯胶、金合欢胶、菌核胶、长角豆胶、瓜尔羟丙基三甲基氯化铵、短梗霉聚糖、聚糖、葡糖氨基聚糖、卡拉胶、藻酸盐/酯、透明质酸及其盐、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、糖胺聚糖(软骨素)、壳聚糖,及其混合物。
可用于本发明的疏水聚合物可选自包含以下的组:烷基二甲基硅氧烷;聚甲基倍半硅氧烷;乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物;亚烷基/乙烯基吡咯烷酮共聚物;聚乙烯;苯乙烯聚合物和共聚物,例如苯乙烯/乙烯/丁烯/苯乙烯、苯乙烯/乙烯/苯乙烯和苯乙烯/丁烯/苯乙烯嵌段弹性体共聚物;聚异丁烯;及其混合物。
可用于本发明的两亲聚合物可选自包含以下的组:聚乙二醇/蓖麻油共聚物;乙二醇/丙二醇二嵌段和三嵌段共聚物;失水山梨糖醇油酸酯烷基糖苷交联聚合物;用聚氧化烯或多胺部分修饰的聚二甲基硅氧烷聚合物,例如聚乙二醇/聚丙二醇二甲基硅氧烷;及其混合物。
可用于本发明的矿物结构成分可选自包含以下的组:黏土和硅酸盐/酯,例如膨润土和锂皂石(laponite)。
在一个优选实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物包含至少一种亲水共聚物或三元共聚物,其选自包含以下的组:乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酸酯共聚物、来源于(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯、(甲基)丙烯酸和丙烯酰胺基二甲基牛磺酸以及它们的盐的共聚物和交联聚合物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酰胺基烷基磺酸共聚物、黄原胶、脱氢黄原胶、瓜尔胶、阿拉伯胶、金合欢胶、菌核胶、长角豆胶;短梗霉聚糖、聚糖、葡糖氨基聚糖、卡拉胶、藻酸盐/酯、果胶、透明质酸及其盐、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、壳聚糖,及其混合物。
在一个优选实施方案中,聚合物在组合物中的水平特别地为相对于组合物总重量的0.05至10重量%,更特别地约0.1至约7重量%,还更特别地约0.25至约5重量%,例如约0.5重量%、约1重量%、约2.5重量%或约4重量%。
可用于本发明的溶剂是液体,其可选自包含以下的组:
-醇,例如乙醇、丙醇和异丙醇,及其混合物;
-多元醇,例如2-乙二醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、二丙二醇、1,4-丁二醇、甘油、季戊四醇(CAS:115-77-5)、1,4-丁二醇、1,2-丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,2-庚二醇、1,2-辛二醇等;
-乙二醇醚和酯,例如二丙二醇甲醚乙酸酯(CAS:88917-22-0)、三丙二醇甲醚(CAS:25498-49-1)、二丙二醇甲醚(CAS:34590-94-8)、二丙二醇正丁醚(CAS:29911-28-2)、3-甲氧基-3-甲基-1-丁醇(CAS:56539-66-3)等;
-异山梨醇二甲醚(CAS:5306-85-4)、(2,2-二甲基-1,3-二氧戊环-4-基)甲醇(CAS:100-79-8)等;
-其混合物。
在一个优选实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物包含至少一种多元醇,其中至少一种多元醇在组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的0.5至50重量%,更特别地约1至约25重量%,还更特别地约2至约10重量%,例如约2重量%、约4重量%或约6重量%。
可用于本发明的油是液体,其可选自包含以下的组:
-矿物油、矿脂(petrolatum)、氢化异链烷烃、氢化聚异丁烯和硅油(siliconeoil):
-植物油和藻类油,例如菜籽油、葵花油、橄榄油、摩洛哥坚果油(argan oil)、杏油(apricot oil)、霍霍巴油(jojoba oil)、芦荟油、蓖麻油、葡萄籽油、氢化蓖麻油等;
-酯,例如肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异硬脂酸甲基庚酯、异壬酸异壬酯。
在一个优选实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物包含至少一种油,其可具体为精油,其中至少一种油在组合物中的水平特别地为相对于组合物总重量的0.5至50重量%,更特别地约1至约25重量%,还更特别地约2至约10重量%,例如约2重量%、约4重量%或约6重量%。
特别适用于本发明的防腐剂可选自包含以下的组:苯甲酸及其盐;水杨酸及其盐;4-羟基苯甲酸及其酯和盐;山梨酸及其盐、甲醛和多聚甲醛;联苯-2-醇及其盐;吡硫锌(zinc pyrithione)(CAS:13463-41-7);氯代丁醇;甲酸及其盐,二溴六脒羟乙基磺酸盐(CAS:93856-83-8);硫柳汞(Thiomersal)(CAS:54-64-8);苯汞盐;十一碳-10-烯酸及其盐;海克替啶(Hexetidine)(CAS:141-94-6);5-溴-5-硝基-1,3-二氧六环(CAS:30007-47-7);2-溴-2-硝基丙烷-1,3-二醇(CAS:52-51-7);二氯苯甲醇(CAS:1777-82-8);三氯二苯脲(triclocarban)(CAS:101-20-2);对氯间甲酚(CAS:59-50-7);三氯生(Triclosan)(CAS:3380-34-5)、氯二甲苯酚(CAS:3380-34-5);咪唑烷基脲(CAS:39236-46-9);聚氨丙基双胍(CAS:32289-58-0/27083-27-8/28757-47-3/133029-32-0);苯氧乙醇(CAS:122-99-6);六亚甲基四胺(methenamine)(CAS:100-97-0);季铵盐-15(CAS:4080-31-3);氯咪巴唑(Climbazole)(CAS:38083-17-9);1,3-双(羟甲基)-5,5-二甲基咪唑烷-2,4-二酮(CAS:6440-58-0);苯甲醇;1-羟基-4-甲基-6-(2,4,4-三甲基戊基)-2-吡啶酮及其单乙醇胺盐(CAS:50650-76-5/68890-66-4);2,2’-亚甲基双(6-溴-4-氯酚)(CAS:15435-29-7);4-异丙基间甲酚(CAS:3228-02-2);5-氯-2-甲基-异噻唑-3(2H)-酮/2-甲基异噻唑-3(2H)-酮/氯化镁/硝酸镁混合物(CAS:26172-55-4、2682-20-4、55965-84-9);2-苄基-4-氯酚(CAS:120-32-1);2-氯乙酰胺(CAS:79-07-2);氯己定(CAS:55-56-1);氯己定二葡糖酸盐(CAS:18472-51-0);氯己定二盐酸盐(CAS:3697-42-5);1-苯氧基丙-2-醇;烷基(C12-C22)三甲基溴化铵和烷基(C12-C22)三甲基氯化铵(CAS:17301-53-0/57-09-0/112-02-7/1119-94-4/112-00-5/1120-02-1/112-03-8);4,4-二甲基-1,3-/>唑烷(CAS:51200-87-4);重氮烷基脲(CAS:78491-02-8);苯甲脒、4,4’-(1,6-己二酰双(氧))双-及其盐(包括异硫代硫酸盐/酯和对羟基苯甲酸盐/酯)(CAS:3811-75-4/659-40-5/93841-83-9);戊二醛;5-乙基-3,7-二氧杂-1-氮杂双环[3.3.0]辛烷(CAS:7747-35-5);3-(对氯苯氧基)-丙烷-1,2-二醇(CAS:104-29-0);羟甲基氨基乙酸钠(CAS:70161-44-3);苄索氯铵(CAS:121-54-0);苄烷铵卤化物和糖精酸盐/酯(CAS:8001-54-5/63449-41-2/91080-29-4/68989-01-5/68424-85-1/68391-01-5/61789-71-7/85409-22-9);苯甲氧基-甲醇(CAS:14548-60-8);3-碘代-2-丙炔基丁基氨基甲酸盐/酯(CAS:55406-53-6);2-甲基-2H-异噻唑-3-酮(CAS:2682-20-4);月桂酰基精氨酸乙酯盐酸盐(CAS:60372-77-2);柠檬酸、柠檬酸银;氯化银;无机亚硫酸盐和亚硫酸氢盐;及其混合物。
在一个优选实施方案中,防腐剂是经批准的防腐剂,其选自包含以下的组:苯甲酸钠、山梨酸钾、苯甲醇和乙二胺四乙酸二钠盐的多种混合物;辛酸甘油酯;对茴香酸;苯甲醇、水杨酸、甘油和山梨酸的混合物;山梨酸和山梨酸钾或者苯甲酸、苯甲酸钾和苯甲酸钠的组合;对羟基苯甲酸甲酯(CAS:99-76-3)、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯(CAS:94-13-3)和2-溴-2-硝基丙烷-1,3-二醇(Bronopol,CAS:52-51-7)的混合物;葡糖酸内酯(CAS:90-80-2)和苯甲酸钠;脱氢乙酸(3-乙酰基-2-羟基-6-甲基-4H-吡喃-4-酮;CAS;520-45-6)和苯甲醇;等等。
在一个优选实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物包含至少一种防腐剂,其中至少一种防腐剂在组合物中的水平特别地为相对于组合物总重量的0.0001至5重量%,更特别地约0.005至约2.5重量%,还更特别地约0.01至约1重量%,例如约0.05重量%、约0.1重量%或约0.5重量%。
在一个具体实施方案中,包含微米级原纤附聚物和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料,特别是混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物,与至少一种聚合物(其可以是合成的或天然的)、至少一种防腐剂、至少一种多元醇和任选的油组合。干混合物和湿润的混合物将在本文件中在下面进一步描述。根据该具体实施方案的组合物的特征在于增强的感官特性,例如坚硬的质地、令人愉悦的外观和改善的皮肤感觉。
其他功能性成分可包含选自包含以下的组的表面活性剂:
-阴离子表面活性剂,例如C10-C22烷基酯磺酸盐/酯,例如α-磺基脂肪酸甲酯和α-磺基脂肪酸乙酯;烷基硫酸盐/酯,例如十二烷基硫酸钠;通过烷基醇进行乙氧基化随后使用三氧化硫磺化而获得的烷基醚硫酸盐/酯;烷基羟乙基磺酸钠;烷酰基肌氨酸钠,例如十二烷酰基(甲基)氨基乙酸钠;月桂基葡糖苷羟丙基磺酸钠;月桂醇聚醚磷酸钾;
-阳离子表面活性剂,例如季铵化长链烷基卤化铵,例如二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵、二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、棕榈酰胺基丙基二甲基氯化铵;亚油酸酰胺基丙基乙基二甲基乙基硫酸铵、卵磷脂和溶血卵磷脂;
-阳离子表面活性剂,例如脂肪胺,例如月桂亚氨基丙基二甲基胺、十三烷基胺、N-油基-1,3-丙烷二胺,和乙氧基化脂肪胺,例如乙氧基化N-牛脂-1,3-丙二胺;
-两性离子表面活性剂,其来源于具有烷基季铵、或/>基团的化合物与具有羧基、磺酸盐/酯、硫酸盐/酯、琥珀酸盐/酯、磷酸盐/酯或膦酸盐/酯基团的化合物之间的反应,例如如椰油二甲基羧甲基甜菜碱、月桂基二甲基羧甲基甜菜碱、硬脂酰双-(2-羟乙基)羧甲基甜菜碱;酰胺基烷基甜菜碱、磺基烷基甜菜碱和烷基酰胺基磺基甜菜碱,例如椰油酰胺基丙基甜菜碱、椰油二甲基磺基丙基甜菜碱、月桂基二甲基磺基乙基甜菜碱和月桂基双-(2-羟乙基)磺丙基甜菜碱;
-两性表面活性剂,例如3-十二烷基亚氨基丙酸钠和3-十二烷基亚氨基丙烷磺酸钠。
-非离子表面活性剂,例如具有约1至25个环氧乙烷单元的C4-C22烷基乙氧基化物;乙氧基化/丙氧基化的烷基醇,例如[C10]癸醇聚醚-n、月桂醇聚醚-n和十三烷醇聚醚-n,其中n是表示乙氧基链中的环氧乙烷部分的数均数目的整数;蓖麻油乙氧基化物、烷基二烷基胺氧化物;烷酰基葡糖酰胺;乙氧基化山梨糖醇烷基酯,例如用油酸、肉豆蔻酸、硬脂酸、棕榈酸等酯化的具有3至30个乙氧基的山梨糖醇聚乙二醇醚;失水山梨糖醇烷基化物,例如失水山梨糖醇棕榈酸酯、失水山梨糖醇油酸酯等;聚氧乙烯失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯,例如聚山梨醇酯20、聚山梨醇酯60和聚山梨醇酯80;C10-C18烷基胺氧化物和C8-C12烷氧基乙基二羟基乙基胺氧化物,例如N,N-二羟基乙基-N-硬脂胺氧化物、乙氧基化月桂酰胺和月桂基二甲基胺氧化物;椰油酰胺二乙醇胺(CAS:68603-42-9)、烷基多葡糖苷(例如硬脂酸甘油酯、蔗糖月桂酸酯和蔗糖棕榈酸酯);乙氧基化烷基葡糖二烷基酯,例如聚乙二醇-120甲基葡糖二油酸酯;单烷基聚甘油酯和二烷基聚甘油酯,例如辛酸六甘油酯、蓖麻油酸六甘油酯、椰油酸四甘油酯和辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;乙氧基化氢化蓖麻油、山梨糖醇酐橄榄油酸酯、鲸蜡醇橄榄油酸酯;
-其混合物。
在上文中列出的表面活性剂可与C10-C24烷基醇(例如鲸蜡硬脂醇、硬脂醇及其混合物)混合。
优选地,表面活性剂是水溶性的或水分散性的。
其他功能性成分可包含:
-α-羟基酸,例如乙醇酸、乳酸、苹果酸、柠檬酸、酒石酸和β-羟基酸,例如水杨酸(这些酸在个人护理组合物中可部分或完全中和,这意味着质子化(未解离的)形式和未质子化(解离的)形式二者可共存于组合物中,其中未质子化形式的反离子(counterion)通常是钠、钾、钙等;相同的评论也适用于这些酸的盐;相同的评论也适用于在此之下和下文中提及的其它酸以及其盐);
-吡咯烷酮羧酸(CAS:149-87-1;CAS:98-79-3);
-茴香酸及其盐;
-二羧酸(例如癸二酸、乙酰丙酸)及其盐;
-蛋白质和肽,例如胶原蛋白、七肽-8、乙酰六肽-3(CAS:616204-22-9)、乙酰八肽-8(CAS:868844-74-0)、棕榈酰四肽、棕榈酰五肽(CAS:214047-00-4)、早衰蛋白(progerin);
-水解大豆蛋白、水解角蛋白;
-脂类,例如上文提及的油;糖脂;磷脂;鞘脂,例如神经酰胺;甾醇和类固醇,例如豆甾醇和β-谷甾醇;
-脂肪酸和羟基脂肪酸,以及它们的盐和酯,例如10-羟基癸酸、亚油酸、齐墩果酸(oleanolic acid)、硬脂酸、椰油酸钾、油酸钾、棕榈酸异丙酯、乙酸肉豆蔻酯;
-脂肪醇,例如二十二醇、2-辛基十二烷醇;
-聚氧乙基甘油醚,例如甘油聚醚-26(CAS:31694-55-0);
-葡糖酸钙(CAS:299-28-5);
-聚多卡醇(CAS:9002-92-0)和聚多卡醇衍生物;
-尿素、尿囊素(CAS:97-59-6)、咖啡因、吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐(CAS:68890-66-4)、氨基酸及其衍生物(例如L-精氨酸、麦角硫因(ergothioneine)和丙氨酸)、乙酰肉碱盐酸盐(CAS:5080-50-2)、脱羧基肌肽盐酸盐(CAS:57022-38-5)、葡糖胺盐酸盐(CAS:66-84-2);
-α-硫辛酸(CAS:1077-28-7);
-碱性碱,例如三乙醇胺和氢氧化钠;
-类黄酮和异黄酮,例如表儿茶素(epicatecine)和表儿茶素没食子酸酯、表没食子儿茶素(epigallocatecin)和表没食子儿茶素、芹菜素(pigenin)、木樨草素(juteolin)、槲皮素(quercetin)、芹菜苷(apiin)、异鼠李素(isorhamnetin)、藤菊黄素(patuletin)、染料木黄酮(genistein)、光甘草定(glabrindin)、大豆异黄酮和儿茶素;
-多酚,例如白藜芦醇(resveratrol)、四氢双去甲氧基姜黄素(CAS:113482-94-3);
-抗氧化剂,例如丁基化羟基甲苯;季戊四醇基四-二叔丁基羟基桂皮酸酯;
-花色素苷,例如橙苷色素(aurantinidin)、花青色素(cyanidine)、elphinidine、欧天芥菜色素(europinidin)、天竺葵色素(pelargonidin)、锦葵色素(malvidin)、芍药色素(peonidin)、牵牛花色素(petunidin)和松香色素(rosinidin);
-羟基苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸(CAS:697235-49-7);
-矿物质,例如钛氧化物、高岭土、云母、铁氧化物、锌、锌氧化物、锡氧化物、硼硅酸钠钙、云母、三异硬脂酸异丙氧钛酯(CAS:61417-49-0);
-有机染料和色素,例如Yellow 5(柠檬黄(Tartrazine),CAS:1934-21-0)、Red 33(5-氨基-4-羟基-3-(苯基偶氮)-萘-2,7-二磺酸二钠;CAS:3567-66-6);
-维生素和维生素衍生物,例如泛醇、生育酚和乙酸生育酚酯、柠檬酸二月桂醇酯、抗坏血酸、烟酰胺、抗坏血酸磷酸钠、抗坏血酸四己基癸酯、视黄醇、棕榈酸视黄酯、泛醇(维生素B,CAS:81-13-0);
-萜,包括它们的衍生物,例如薄荷醇、乳酸薄荷酯、薄荷烷甲酰乙胺、柠檬烯、桉树脑(eucalyptol)、桉油酚(cineol)、樟脑、冰片;
-倍半萜和三萜,包括它们的衍生物,例如红没药醇(bisabolol)、甘草次酸及其盐和酯、皂苷、甘草次酸及其盐和酯、硬脂基甘草亭酸酯(stearyl glycyrrhetinate)、甘草酸及其盐和酯、植物固醇;
-泛醌;
-芳香烃,例如
-隔离成分,例如谷氨酸三乙酸四钠、植酸钠(CAS:14306-25-3/34367-89-0)、乙二胺四乙酸及其盐;
-有机紫外线吸收成分,例如1-(4-甲氧基苯基)-3-(4-叔丁基苯基)丙烷-1,3-二酮(CAS:70356-09-1)、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(CAS:274-581-6)、水杨酸乙基己酯(CAS:118-60-5)、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯(CAS:5466-77-3)、2-羟基苯甲酸3,3,5-三甲基环己酯(CAS:118-56-9)、乙基己基甲氧基聚丙烯腈(ethylhexyl methoxycrylene)(CAS:947753-66-4)、甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷(Drometrizole trisiloxane)(CAS:155633-54-8)、(2-羟基-4-甲氧基苯基)-(苯基)甲酮(CAS:131-57-7)、二苯甲酮;
-美白成分,例如曲酸(5-羟基-2-(羟甲基)-4H-吡喃-4-酮,CAS:501-30-4)、氢醌;
-蜡和黄油,例如蜂蜡、地蜡(Ozokerite)、小烛树蜡(Candelilla wax)、巴西棕榈蜡(Carnauba wax)、乳木果油(Shea butter)、狭翅娑罗双籽脂(Shorea Stenoptera seedbutter)、可可籽油、木鲁星果棕籽脂(Astrocaryummurumuru seed butter);
-碳水化合物和糖醇以及它们的衍生物,例如核糖;熊果苷(CAS:497-76-7)、赤藓酮糖、异构化糖、山梨醇;
-除臭成分,例如乙基己基甘油、蓖麻油酸锌、水合氯化铝(aluminiumchlorohydrate)、铝锆四氢吡二氯乙醚甘氨酸(aluminium zirconiumtetrahydrochlorex glycine)(CAS:134910-86-4);
-颗粒,例如磨碎的坚果壳和籽壳,例如澳洲坚果(Macadamia)壳粉和杏仁壳粉、硅酸盐/酯、碳酸钙、尼龙-6和尼龙-12珠、聚乙烯珠、聚四氟乙烯珠、聚乳酸珠、褐煤酸乙二醇酯珠、高熔点蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、米糠蜡(rice bran wax),微晶纤维素、燕麦片(Oatmeal);
–来自以下的植物提取物、果汁和精油:金合欢(Acacia farnesiana)、阿萨伊(Acai)、伊谷草(Ahnfeltia)、美丽伊谷草(Ahnfeltia concinna)、翅菜(Alariaesculenta)、石栗籽(Aleurites moluccana seed)、苜蓿提取物、藻类、苦杏仁、芦荟叶、芦荟、交替单胞菌发酵产物(Alteromonas ferment)、蜀葵(Althaea rosea)、药蜀葵(Altheaofficinalis)、组囊藻(Anacystis nidulans)、菠萝(Ananas sativus)、大苦油楝(Andiroba)、山金车(Amica)、当归根(Angelica root)、胭脂树(Annato)、苹果、杏仁(Apricot kernel)、花生提取物(Arachis hypogaea extract)、牛蒡(Arctium)、熊果叶(Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf)、阿江榄仁树(Arjuna)、山金车(Arnica)、卤虫(Artemia)、蒿属(Artemisia)、泡叶藻(Ascophyllum nodosum)、刺海门冬(Asparagopsisarmata)、黄芪(Astragala)、苍术根(Atractyloydes lancea root)、燕麦(Avena sativa)、夏威夷白姜(Awapuhi)、巴巴苏(Babassu)、补骨脂酚(bakuchiol)、芭拉(Bala)、竹笋、香蕉、树皮树、大麦草(Barley grass)、甜菜、安息香、具芒小檗(Berberis aristata)、佛手柑(Bergamot)、巴西果(Bertholletia excelsa)、甜菜根(Beta vulgaris root)、白桦(Betula alba)、越橘(Bilberry)、桦树皮、桦树叶、黑升麻(black Cohosh)、黑醋栗(Blackcurrant)、黑接骨木(black Elderberry)、刺槐(black Loccust)、黑桑(blackMulberry)、黑胡椒、黑树莓(black Raspberry)、黑蛇根草(black Snakeroot)、红茶、黑莓、墨角藻(Bladderwrack)、蓝花马鞭草(blue Vervain)、黄细心根(Boerhavia diffusaroot)、琉璃苣籽(Borago seed)、美洲升麻(Bugbane)、柴胡属(Bupleurum)、牛蒡(Burdock)、假叶树(butcher’s broom)、金盏花(Calendula)、帚石楠花(Calluna vulgarisflower)、樟脑、番椒(Cayenne)、矢车菊(Centaurea cyanus)、积雪草(Centellaasiatica)、洋甘菊(Chamomile)、菊(Chrysanthemum)、桂皮(Cinnamon bark)、北美紫苑草(Cocash weed)、芫荽(Coriander)、矢车菊(Corn flower)、山茱萸(Cornus)、Coughweed、蔓越莓籽(Cranberry seed)、姜黄素(Curcumin)、柏(Cypress)、蒲公英(Dandelion)、山茱萸(Dogwood)、紫锥花(Echinacea)、接骨木花(Elder flower)、柳兰(Epilobiumangustifolium)、桉树(Eucalyptus)、吴茱萸(Evodia rutaecarpa)、茴香(Fennel)、小白菊(Feverfew)、红花蚊子草(Filipendula rubra)、火龙草(Fireweed)、亚麻籽(Flaxseed)、茯苓(Fu Ling)、龙胆属(Gentiana)、天竺葵(Geranium)、姜根、银杏、人参(Ginseng)、雷公根(Gotu kola)、葡萄籽提取物、绿茶、紫草(Gromwell)、蜂蜜、金银花(Honeysuckle flower)、七叶树(Horse chestnut)、巴拉圭茶(Ilex paraguariensis)、茉莉、杜松(Juniper)、枣、山楂、霍桑(Hawthorne)、向日葵(Helianthus)、茉莉、卡瓦胡椒(Kava kava)、卡瓦胡椒(Kawa)、楔基海带(Laminaria ochroleuca)、短柄野芝麻花(Lamium album flower)、牛蒡(Lappa)、熏衣草、高山火绒草(Leontopodium alpinum)、柠檬、柠檬皮、柠檬草(Lemongrass)、甘草(Licorice)、金色千里光(Life root)、酸橙树(Lime tree)、Lin、椴树花(Linden flower)、紫草(Lithospermum erythrorhizon)、忍冬(Lonicera)、莲子、锦葵(Mallow)、药蜀葵(Marshmallow)、万寿菊(Marigold)、马郁兰(Marjoram)、Mate、绣线菊(Meadow sweet)、海巴戟(Morinda citrifolia)、荨麻叶(Nettle leaf)、绿花白千层(Niaouli)、诺丽果(Noni)、燕麦麸(Oat bran)、燕麦仁(Oat kernel)、燕麦秸杆、月见草(Oenothera biennis)、柑橘、橙花(Orange blossom)、西番莲(Passion flower)、秘鲁香脂(Peru balsam)、松树、凤梨、报春花(Primrose)、Pancy、Panish鼠尾草(Panish sage)、紫苏(Perilla)、水蓼(Persicaria hydropiper)、余甘子果(Phyllanthus emblica fruit)、酸浆属(Physalis)、柳珊瑚(Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae)、挪威云杉(Picea abies)、茯苓(Poria cocos)、马齿苋提取物(Portulaca oleracea extract)、蜂胶、夏枯草(Prunellavulgaris)、刘寄奴属(Ragwort)、红车轴草(red Clover)、罗马洋甘菊(Roman chamomile)、玫瑰、迷迭香、Salici、白柳树皮(Salix alba bark)、无患子树皮(Sapindus mukurossipeel)、黄芩(Scutellaria baicalensis)、See whip、千里光属(Senecio)、并头草属(Skullcap)、赤榆树皮(Slippery elm bark)、加拿大水牛果(Soap berry)、榆绣线菊(Spiraea ulmaria)、云杉(Spruce)、美类叶升麻根(Squaw root)、美类叶升麻草(Squawweed)、金丝桃(St.John’s wort)、琼崖海棠(Tamanu)、茶树、百里香(Thyme)、姜黄(Turmeric)、石莼(Ulva lactuca)、绒毛钩藤(Uncaria tomentosa)、大果越橘果(Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit)、缬草根(Valerian root)、扁叶香果兰果(Vanillaplanifolia fruit)、紫罗兰、白桦(White birch)、野山药、冬青(Wintergreen)、金缕梅(Witch hazel)、苦艾(Wormwood)、西洋蓍(Yarow)、巴拉圭茶(Yerba mate)、依兰(YlangYlang)、育亨宾(Yohimbe)、丝兰(Yucca),和/或
–香料,例如萜醇和酯、环烷基酯和酮、烷基和芳族醛、氧化物、缩酮等。
其他功能性成分可见于个人护理产品委员会的国际化妆品成分命名(International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,INCI)的列表中,例如可在http://www.makingcosmetics.com/articles/INCI-list.pdf处获得,或在InternationalNomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients Handbook,第16版,J.Nikitakis和B.Lange(编辑),个人护理产品委员会,2016,ISBN 1-882621-55-7中获得。
根据本发明的个人护理组合物还可包含任何可溶解在或可悬浮在组合物中的用于人和兽医用途的表面药物成分。合适的药物成分包括但不限于:
-抗组胺药,例如盐酸苯海拉明、曲吡那敏(tripelennamine)和马来酸吡拉明、盐酸苯海拉明和马来酸氯苯那敏;
-皮质类固醇,例如氢化可的松(hydrocortisone)、地塞米松(dexamethasone)、氟米松(flumethasone)、泼尼松龙(prednisolone)、甲基强的松龙(methylprednisolone)、丙酸氯倍他索(clobetasol propionate)、苯甲酸倍他米松(betamethasone benzoate)、二丙酸倍他米松(betamethasone dipropionate)、醋酸双氟拉松(diflorasone diacetate)、醋酸氟轻松(fluocinonide)、糠酸莫米松(mometasone furoate)和曲安奈德(triamcinoloneacetonide);
-抗炎成分,例如卡洛芬(carprofen)、双氯芬酸(diclofenac)、二氟尼柳(diflunisal)、依托度酸(etodolac)、非诺洛芬(fenoprofen)、氟芬那酸(flufenamicacid)、氟轻松(fluocinolone acetonide)、氟比洛芬(flurbiprofen)、布洛芬(ibuprofen)、吲哚美辛(indomethacin)、酮咯酸(ketorolac)、甲氯灭酸盐/酯、甲灭酸、萘丁美酮(nabumetone)、萘普生(naproxen)、奥沙普秦(oxaprozin)、羟布宗(oxyphenbutazone)、保泰松(phenylbutazone)、吡罗昔康(piroxicam)、美洛昔康(meloxicam)、吡洛芬(pirprofen)、双水杨酸酯、舒林酸(sulindac)、替诺昔康(tenoxicam)、噻洛芬酸(tiaprofenic acid)、托美丁(tolmetin)、曲安奈德倍他米松戊酸盐/酯、塞来昔布(celecoxib)、醋酸氟轻松、氢化可的松和水杨酸钠、依托芬那酯(etofenamat)、肝素;
-抗生素,例如青霉素、四环素、头孢菌素、喹诺酮、林可霉素、大环内酯、磺胺、糖肽、氨基糖苷、碳青霉烯(arbapenem);
-抗微生物的或细菌抑制性成分,例如新霉素、庆大霉素、多黏菌素和克林霉素、苯佐氯铵(benzoxonium chloride);
-抗真菌药,例如硝酸咪康唑(miconazole nitrate)、克霉唑(clotrimazole)、制霉菌素(nystatin)和卤普罗近(haloprogin);
-麻醉剂成分利多卡因(lidocaine)、辛可卡因(dibucaine)、苯佐卡因(benzocaine)和盐酸普莫卡因(pramoxine HCl)、丙胺卡因(prilocaine);
-镇痛成分,例如水杨酸乙二醇酯、水杨酸甲酯、1-薄荷醇、d,l-樟脑和辣椒素(capsaicin);和/或
-类固醇和三萜,例如合成代谢类固醇、雄激素类固醇、皮质类固醇、糖皮质激素、促性腺激素、人生长激素、孕酮、孕激素,以及孕激素和雌激素、甘草次酸;
根据本发明的一个优选实施方案,在这种情况下优选为凝胶、凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜的所述个人护理组合物包含:
a.)相对于组合物总重量的0.1至30重量%,优选0.5至20重量%,更优选1至10重量%的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料;
b.)相对于组合物总重量的至多25重量%,优选至多10重量%的一种或更多种多元醇;
c.)相对于组合物总重量的至多5重量%,优选0.005至2.5重量%的一种或更多种防腐剂;
d.)不同于b.)中提及的一种或更多种多元醇且不同于c.)中提及的一种或更多种防腐剂的一种或更多种功能性成分;以及
e.)水,其优选去离子水,并且其有利地将组合物补全至100重量%。
在一个具体实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物是具有均匀、半透明和含水外观,并对皮肤吸收提供凉爽和轻微湿润的感觉的自立式凝胶,并且其可作为遮盖物(例如面膜)施用。根据这个具体实施方案的凝胶面膜非常适合于将上文中提及的功能性化妆品成分表面递送至皮肤,并且可用作用于治疗和调节面部区域皮肤的局部病症(例如过度的脂肪减少、静脉功能不全、牵张纹(stretch mark)、酒渣鼻(rosacea)、痤疮、丘疹、皮肤发红、皱纹、静脉曲张、脂肪团(cellulite)、老年斑、皮肤老化等)之成分和组合物的递送系统。凝胶面膜还可包含去角质成分和颗粒物质,并且用作磨砂膏(scrub)。或者,凝胶面膜可具有沙冰的外观,该沙冰具有不均匀的、细碎凹凸不平的质地、半透明的外观。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜中的水平优选为相对于凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜总重量的0.1至35重量%,例如0.5重量%、1重量%、1.5重量%、5重量%、10重量%、20重量%或30重量%。
在一个具体实施方案中,凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜包含:
a)相对于凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜总重量的0.1至30重量%,优选0.5至20重量%,更优选1至10重量%的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料;
b)相对于凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜总重量的至多25重量%,优选至多10重量%的一种或更多种多元醇;
c)相对于凝胶面膜或沙冰面膜总重量的0.0001至5重量%,优选约0.005至约2.5重量%的一种或更多种防腐剂;
d)一种或更多种功能性化妆品成分,优选地选自但不限于本文件中提及的组,并且不同于b)中提及的一种或更多种多元醇和不同于c)中提及的一种或更多种防腐剂;
e)将凝胶面膜或吸附剂面膜补全至100重量%的水。
在一个具体实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物是具有均匀、半透明乳白色外观,并对皮肤提供凉爽和丝滑感觉,并在施用时快速吸收到皮肤中的乳膏-凝胶。如在本文件中所描述的,这样的乳膏-凝胶可用作递送用于多种治疗的化妆品成分和组合物的外用制剂。乳膏-凝胶中的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的水平优选为相对于乳膏-凝胶总重量的0.1至10重量%,例如0.25重量%、0.5重量%、1重量%、2.5重量%、5重量%或7.5重量%。
在本发明的上下文中,术语“半透明乳白色的”用于描述这样的材料,其是基本上不透明的但仍允许一些光通过其薄的部分,例如靠近表面或当以层施加时。半透明的乳白色外观也被称为“乳色的”或“珠光的”。
根据本发明的另一个优选实施方案,在这种情况下优选地为乳膏-凝胶或精华的所述个人护理组合物包含:
a.)相对于组合物总重量的0.1至10重量%,优选0.5至10重量%,更优选1至5重量%的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料;
b.)相对于组合物总重量的至多25重量%,优选至多10重量%的一种或更多种多元醇;
c.)相对于组合物总重量的至多5重量%,优选0.005至2.5重量%的一种或更多种防腐剂;
d.)不同于b.)中提及的一种或更多种多元醇并且不同于c)中提及的一种或更多种防腐剂的一种或更多种功能性成分;以及
e.)水,其优选去离子水,并且其有利地将组合物补全至100重量%。
在一个具体实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物是乳膏-凝胶,其在静止时具有半透明至乳白色外观的透明度,并且在皮肤上施用时变得透明。
在一个具体实施方案中,本发明的个人护理组合物是由以下组成的极简制剂:
a)包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料;以及
b)任选的防腐剂;以及
c)不多于11种功能性成分,优选不多于9种功能性成分,更优选不多于7种功能性成分,甚至更优选不多于5种功能性成分,所述功能性成分选自包含以下的组:合成和天然聚合物、多元醇、溶剂、矿物和植物油、表面活性剂、脂肪酸和脂肪醇酯、C10-C24脂肪酸及其盐、C10-C24脂肪醇、α和β羟基酸及其盐、水杨酸及其盐、二羧酸及其盐、吡咯烷酮羧酸、蛋白质和肽、胶原蛋白、糖脂;磷脂;鞘脂、甾醇和类固醇、聚氧乙基甘油醚、葡糖酸钙、聚多卡醇、尿素、尿囊素、咖啡因、吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐、乙酰肉碱、氨基酸及其衍生物、季胺、α-硫辛酸、碱性碱、类黄酮和异黄酮、多酚、花色素苷、矿物质、有机染料和色素、维生素及其衍生物、萜及其衍生物、倍半萜及其衍生物、三萜及其衍生物、泛醌、隔离成分、紫外线吸收成分、抗氧化剂、蜡和黄油、碳水化合物和糖醇以及它们的衍生物、除臭成分,矿物和植物颗粒、植物提取物、果汁、精油和香料;以及
d)水。
根据本发明的另一个优选实施方案,个人护理组合物包含:
a)一种或更多种防腐剂;以及
b)不多于11种功能性成分,优选不多于9种功能性成分,更优选不多于7种功能性成分,甚至更优选不多于5种功能性成分,所述功能性成分选自包含以下的组:合成和天然聚合物、溶剂、矿物和植物油、表面活性剂、脂肪酸和脂肪醇酯、C10-C24脂肪酸及其盐、C10-C24脂肪醇、α和β羟基酸及其盐、水杨酸及其盐、二羧酸及其盐、吡咯烷酮羧酸、蛋白质和肽、胶原蛋白、糖脂;磷脂;鞘脂、甾醇和类固醇、聚氧乙基甘油醚、葡糖酸钙、聚多卡醇、尿素、尿囊素、咖啡因、吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐、乙酰肉碱、氨基酸及其衍生物、季胺、α-硫辛酸、碱性碱、类黄酮和异黄酮、多酚、花色素苷、矿物质、有机染料和色素、维生素及其衍生物、萜及其衍生物、倍半萜及其衍生物、三萜及其衍生物、泛醌、隔离成分、紫外线吸收成分、抗氧化剂、蜡和黄油、碳水化合物和糖醇以及它们的衍生物、除臭成分、矿物和植物颗粒、生物防腐剂、植物提取物、果汁、精油和香料;以及
c)水,其优选为去离子水。
在本发明的上下文中,个人护理组合物的感官特征可由专门小组成员例如通过主观回答感官测试查询表格根据本领域已知的方法(参见例如Peter Busch,ThomasGassenmeier,在“Cutaneous Biometrics”中的“Evaluation of Cosmetics by SensoryAssessment”,D.A.Schwindt和H.I.Maibach(编辑),Springer,2000,第65至80页)来评估。
本发明还涉及用于产生如上所示的个人护理组合物的方法。该方法至少包括以下步骤:
a.)通过机械手段粉碎干浆;
b.)将所述粉碎的干浆分散在液体中;以及
c.)进一步粉碎分散在液体中的浆以形成包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之纤维材料与液体的混合物,其中进一步粉碎优选通过矿物材料进行,其中混合物优选基本上不含可见的分离原纤,更优选完全不含可见的分离原纤。
该方法优选地包括以下另外的步骤:
d.)向混合物中添加至少一种功能性成分。
上面提及的方法允许产生基本上不含可见的分离原纤,特别是完全不含可见的分离原纤的个人护理组合物。这些个人护理组合物结构特别良好且无刺激性,且具有良好的干燥特性。
特别地,混合物可用作用于配制一般的个人护理组合物,特别是根据本发明的个人护理组合物的基础材料。如果混合物的液体包含水,特别地如果该液体为水,则情况尤其如此。
为了产生个人护理组合物,特别是根据本发明的个人护理组合物,特别优选的是使用液体和纤维材料的混合物,所述液体优选包含水,更优选为水,所述纤维材料包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,其中混合物优选基本上不含可见的分离原纤,更优选完全不含可见的分离原纤。基于这样的混合物产生的个人护理组合物结构特别良好且无刺激性,且具有良好的干燥特性。
如果步骤a.)的浆所具有的含水量对于相应类型的浆是正常的,即没有大量添加水或任何其他液体,则认为该浆是干燥的。少量添加的水或另一种液体可以存在,只要它们不显著地影响浆材料总重量即可,即优选不多于15重量%,更优选不多于10重量%,甚至更优选不多于5重量%。在浆材料分散在液体中的情况下,特别不认为浆材料是干燥的。干浆优选包含相对于干浆总重量的最大15重量%,更优选最大10重量%,甚至更优选1至9重量%,最优选5重量%至8重量%的水,其中含水量优选地通过标准EN 20638(1993年9月)测量。
优选地,步骤a.)在不添加液体下进行,即干浆,特别是经干燥的浆片或经急骤干燥的浆在不添加液体的情况下粉碎。
在一个优选实施方案中,混合物包含含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料,其中纤维材料在混合物中的水平为相对于混合物总重量的0.1至40重量%,优选1至30重量%,更优选1至20重量%,甚至更优选2至10重量%。
包含微米级原纤附聚物和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料优选地由植物制成,更特别地由植物的浆制成,还更特别地由木浆制成,还更特别地由硬木材的浆制成,还更特别地由桉树的浆制成,特别地由巴西桉树的浆制成,和/或由山毛榉树的浆制成。
在一个优选实施方案中,包含微米级原纤附聚物和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料优选地从硬木材的浆中获得,其中纤维材料含有低木质素(lignin)水平,例如相对于纤维材料总重量的少于2重量%或相对于纤维材料总重量的少于1重量%的木质素和/或相对于干纤维材料总重量优选多于约10重量%的木糖,更优选多于15重量%的木糖。纤维材料所含木糖的量优选地通过由《T.Wolfinger,Dreidimensionale Strukturanalyse undModellierung des Kraft-Dehnungsverhaltens von Fasergefügen,TU Dresden,Umweltwissenschaften,提交于2016年11月的论文》提供的信息来测量。
纤维材料的木质素水平可通过本领域已知的方法来评估,例如如根据2006年6月16日的标准TAPPI T222 om-02的方法,其通过引用并入本文。
用于分散干浆的液体优选在常压(101325帕斯卡)下具有低于100℃的沸腾温度,更优选在常压(101325帕斯卡)下具有50℃至低于100℃的沸腾温度,甚至更优选50℃至90℃的沸腾温度。低于100℃的沸腾温度提供了可从纤维材料中除去液体,而不会破坏微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的优点。至少50℃的沸点提供了降低液体着火的危险的优点。
根据一个优选实施方案,液体是丙酮、己烷、环己烷、氟利昂-11、二氧六环、叔丁基甲醚、二甲氧基甲烷、氯仿、二氯甲烷、乙酸乙酯、四氢呋喃、2-丁酮、1,2-二甲氧基乙烷、乙腈,及其混合物,或者非水性质子溶剂,例如乙醇、或异丙醇、或共沸混合物。使用这样的液体来产生混合物提供的优点是混合物可进一步用于制造个人护理组合物。
根据另一个优选实施方案,液体是质子惰性液体或质子液体,优选质子液体。
可用于本发明的的质子液体可选自包含以下的组:水、乙醇、异丙醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、双丙甘醇、甘油、季戊四醇(CAS:115-77-5),及其混合物。优选地,质子液体包含水。更优选地质子液体为水。
由于微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的状态对水中的少量离子不敏感的事实,因此去离子水和自来水二者均可用于产生用于个人护理组合物中的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的分散体,尽管对于化妆品用途,优选去离子水或蒸馏水。
然而,不含水的液体对于某些产品形式也是优选的,例如香脂(balm)、底漆(primer)、除臭棒、唇膏等。
在另外的步骤中,混合物优选为经干燥的以形成包含含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物纤维材料的干混合物。干混合物包含的固体含量优选为相对于干混合物总重量的70重量%至100重量%,更优选80重量%至97重量%,甚至更优选85重量%至95重量%。干混合物的液体含量,特别是含水量优选地通过标准EN 20638(1993年9月)确定。干混合物优选为粉末形式。此外,干混合物优选基本上不含可见的分离原纤,更优选完全不含可见的分离原纤。
根据一个优选实施方案,干混合物还如同这样地用于产生个人护理组合物。根据另一个优选实施方案,向干混合物中再次添加液体以形成湿润的混合物。液体可与用于使干浆分散的液体相同或是另一种液体。为了将干混合物分散在液体中,优选地使用低剪切混合器,例如桨式混合器或螺旋桨式混合器,这意味着干混合物在不使用高剪切混合设备(例如锯齿溶解器、转子-定子匀浆器或高压匀浆器)的情况下分散。根据另一个优选实施方案,湿润的混合物还用于产生个人护理组合物。
干混合物以及湿润的混合物允许产生结构良好且无刺激性的具有良好干燥特性的个人护理组合物。
如果干混合物或湿润的混合物基本上不含可见的分离原纤,特别是完全不含可见的分离原纤,则这样的混合物允许产生结构特别良好且无刺激性的具有良好干燥特性的个人护理组合物。
在一个优选实施方案中,混合物包含相对于混合物总重量的至多5重量%的防腐剂。
混合物优选为分散体,更优选为水性分散体。由于存在光漫射的微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,水性分散体通常是半透明的。
在本发明的上下文中,术语“半透明的”用于描述这样的材料,其允许光通过但使其漫射,使得布置在材料一侧的物体在相对侧不清晰可见。
优选地,通过进一步使用混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物作为基础材料来制备个人护理组合物,其中将待产生的个人护理组合物的所有其它成分混合到混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物中。
根据一个优选实施方案,通过在温和的温度条件下,优选室温下,并且不需要转子-定子或高压匀浆器装置,进一步向混合物、向干混合物或向湿润的混合物中添加至少一种功能性成分,特别是本文件中提及的任何功能性成分来产生个人护理组合物。
在一个优选实施方案中,将选择的功能性成分顺序添加至包含液体与含有微米级原纤附聚物和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之纤维材料的混合物中、干混合物或湿润的混合物。
在一个具体实施方案中,将功能性成分顺序添加到包含含有微米级原纤附聚物和/或纳米原纤附聚物之纤维材料与液体(其中液体优选包含水)的混合物中、顺序添加到干混合物或湿润的混合物中是通过优选地进行以下顺序的步骤来实现的:
1)如果需要,在温和搅拌下,将多元醇添加至混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物;
2)在温和搅拌下,将防腐剂添加至前述步骤的所述混合物之一;
3)如果需要,在温和搅拌下将亲水聚合物和/或水溶性或水分散性表面活性剂添加至前述步骤的混合物,直至所述聚合物和/或表面活性剂均匀分散在混合物中;
4)如果需要,将油和/或其它疏水成分添加到前述步骤的混合物中,并通过使用溶解器或分散器使所述油和/或疏水成分分散,直至获得均匀的预乳剂;
5)如果需要,在温和搅拌下将软化的水添加至前述步骤的混合物,直至获得所期望的产品稠度;
6)如果需要,将香料添加到任何前述混合物中。
上文提及的方法与现有技术的区别在于,在任何情况下都不需要高压匀浆装置或转子-定子匀浆装置来将功能性成分分散在混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物中。
本领域技术人员将容易理解,关于大量的不同功能性成分可被配制成混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物以提供根据本发明的个人护理组合物的方式存在一些自由度。因此,基于实验尝试和应用本领域已知的方法,本领域技术人员将能够得出针对落入本发明范围内的每种组合物的最佳工艺。例如,水溶性或水分散性成分可在添加疏水成分之前或之后添加,尽管优选地,在添加疏水成分之前添加亲水成分。固体水溶性或水分散性成分优选在添加疏水成分之前添加。在非极性介质中可溶或可分散的成分优选地与疏水成分混合,或在已添加这些疏水成分后添加。
本领域技术人员还将容易理解,如果混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物包含不含任何水的液体,则可能需要不同的功能性成分,并且将这些成分并入到混合物、干混合物或湿润的混合物中的方式与混合物、干混合物或包含含水液体的湿润混合物的情况相比也可能不同。
本领域技术人员还将容易理解,根据本发明的个人护理组合物可用于多种化妆品和个人护理应用(例如清洁、保湿、放松/舒缓、修复、填充、调理、修护、装饰)以及多种形式和产品,包括乳膏,例如皮肤修复乳膏、抗皱乳膏;精华;身体乳;沐浴时的身体乳液;乳膏-凝胶,例如保湿乳膏-凝胶、舒缓凝胶、凉爽的复苏凝胶(revival gel);凝胶面膜,例如面部面膜;沙冰;酥膏;胶状物;摩丝;凝胶水产品;乳膏水产品;按摩乳剂;酏剂;磨砂膏;基于水的装饰产品,例如基于水的睫毛膏和模糊遮瑕膏;面部和身体清洁凝胶;洗发香波;护发素;造型产品、毛发替代品、盆浴(bath)和淋浴(shower)凝胶;可喷雾乳液,例如防晒乳液;除臭组合物;止汗剂等。
本领域技术人员还将容易理解,在上述的个人护理组合物中的任何功能性化妆品成分的可能的水平将取决于功能性成分的性质、该成分所提供的所期望益处的强度、制剂决定性因素(例如溶解性和相互相容性),以及外部因素(例如价格和监管规定)。
此外,本发明还涉及以下项:
1.个人护理组合物,其包含液体和从植物获得的具有天然来源的纤维材料,其中所述纤维材料包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物,其中所述微米级原纤附聚物的平均长度为500nm至1000μm,优选500nm至600μm,并且甚至更优选500nm至200μm,并且其中所述纳米级原纤附聚物的平均长度为10nm至500nm,所述组合物的特征在于:所述纤维材料包含相对于所述纤维材料总重量的多于10重量%的木糖,特别是多于15重量%的木糖。
2.根据第1项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物基本上不含可见的分离原纤,优选完全不含可见的分离原纤。
3.根据第1项或第2项所述的组合物,其中所述纤维材料是从桉树,更优选从巴西桉树(Eucalyptus Urograndis)树木,或从山毛榉树获得的。
4.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其中所述纤维材料是从未经化学处理的植物浆获得的。
5.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其中所述组合物包含相对于所述组合物总重量的0.1至30重量%的所述纤维材料,优选0.5至20重量%的所述纤维材料,更优选1至10重量%的所述纤维材料。
6.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其包含:
a.)相对于所述组合物总重量的0.1至30重量%的所述纤维材料,优选0.5至20重量%的所述纤维材料,更优选1至10重量%的所述纤维材料;
b.)相对于所述组合物总重量的至多25重量%的一种或更多种多元醇,更特别地至多10重量%的一种或更多种多元醇;
c.)相对于所述组合物总重量的至多5重量%的一种或更多种防腐剂,更特别地0.005至2.5重量%的一种或更多种防腐剂;
d.)不同于b.)中提及的一种或更多种多元醇并且不同于c)中提及的一种或更多种防腐剂的一种或更多种功能性成分;以及
e.)用于补全至100重量%的水。
7.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其包含:
a.)任选地一种或更多种防腐剂;以及
b.)一种或更多种功能性成分,其选自:合成聚合物、天然聚合物、溶剂、多元醇、表面活性剂、完全或部分中和的α-羟基酸、完全或部分中和的β-羟基酸、完全或部分中和的二羧酸、完全或部分中和的透明质酸、C10-C24脂肪酸及其盐和其酯、C10-C24脂肪醇及其酯、聚氧乙基甘油醚、蛋白质和肽、胶原蛋白、糖脂、磷脂、鞘脂、甾醇和类固醇、尿囊素、咖啡因、氨基酸及其衍生物、季胺、碱性碱、类黄酮和异黄酮、多酚、花色素苷、有机染料、色素、维生素及其衍生物、萜及其衍生物、倍半萜及其衍生物、三萜及其衍生物、泛醌、蜡和黄油、碳水化合物和糖醇以及它们的衍生物、矿物和植物颗粒、膨润土、硅藻土、高岭土、二氧化钛;以及
c.)任选地一种或更多种植物提取物、一种或更多种植物汁、一种或更多种精油和/或香料;以及
d.)水。
8.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其包含至少一种合成或天然的亲水聚合物。
9.根据第8项所述的组合物,其中所述至少一种合成或天然的亲水聚合物是选自包含以下的组的共聚物或三元共聚物:乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酸盐/酯共聚物,来源于(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯、(甲基)丙烯酸和丙烯酰胺基二甲基牛磺酸以及它们的盐的共聚物和交联聚合物,乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酰胺基烷基磺酸共聚物;黄原胶、脱氢黄原胶、瓜尔胶、阿拉伯胶、金合欢胶、菌核胶、长角豆胶;短梗霉聚糖、聚糖、糖基氨基聚糖、卡拉胶、藻酸盐/酯、果胶、透明质酸及其盐、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、壳聚糖,及其混合物;并且其中所述聚合物在所述组合物中的水平为相对于所述组合物总重量的0.05至10重量%,更特别地约0.1至约7重量%,还更特别地约0.25至约5重量%,例如约0.5重量%、约1重量%、约2.5重量%或约4重量%。
10.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其包含至少一种多元醇,其中所述至少一种多元醇在所述组合物中的水平为相对于所述组合物总重量的0.5至50重量%,更特别地约1至约25重量%,还更特别地约2至约10重量%,例如约2重量%、约4重量%或约6重量%。
11.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其包含至少一种油,其中所述至少一种油在所述组合物中的水平为相对于所述组合物总重量的0.5至50重量%,更特别地约1至约25重量%,还更特别地约2至约10重量%,例如约2重量%、约4重量%或约6重量%。
12.根据前述项目之一所述的组合物,其包含一种或更多种表面活性剂。
13.用于产生根据前述项目之一所述的组合物的方法,其至少包括以下步骤:
a.)通过机械手段粉碎干浆(4);
b.)使所述粉碎的浆分散在液体中(5);以及
c.)进一步粉碎分散在所述液体中的浆,以形成包含所述液体与含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之纤维材料的混合物(6),其特别是通过矿物材料的手段进行;
其特征在于:所述纤维材料含有相对于所述纤维材料总重量的多于10重量%的木糖,特别是多于15重量%的木糖。
14.根据第13项所述的方法,其包括另外的步骤:
d.)向所述混合物中添加至少一种功能性成分。
15.根据第13项或第14项所述的方法,其中在步骤a.)中,所述干浆在基本不添加液体的情况下进行粉碎,优选在不添加任何液体的情况下进行粉碎。
16.根据第1至12项之一所述的组合物,其通过根据第13至15项之一所述的方法获得。
附图说明
下面参照附图和实施例描述本发明的一些优选实施方案,所述附图和实施例仅用于举例说明目的,而没有限制作用。在附图中示出了:
图1是通过电子显微镜在10’000倍的放大倍数下获得的分离微原纤的视图;
图2是通过电子显微镜在10’000倍的放大倍数下获得的不含可见的分离原纤的微米级原纤附聚物之一部分的视图;
图3是描述用于产生本发明的个人护理组合物的方法的流程图。
图4是根据本发明的个人护理组合物中包含的纤维材料所包含的微米级原纤附聚物的数个实施例;
图5是具有不含木糖(A)和含有不同木糖含量(B至D)的微原纤化纤维素的组合物的显微图像;以及
图6是与包含微晶纤维素的组合物相比的图5C的组合物的显微图像。
图3示出了流程图,其中举例说明了用于产生个人护理组合物的本发明方法的方法步骤。
根据本领域技术人员已知的常规方法,将选自木材1a或一年生植物1b或其组合的含纤维素材料加工成浆3a或3b。浆3a、3b优选为浆板或通过急骤干燥的浆的形式。如果使用木材,优选地使用桉树,特别是巴西桉树和/或山毛榉树。
特别地,浆也可从例如水果(例如柑橘类水果或苹果)、谷物(例如小麦或玉米)、草或含有纤维的蔬菜(例如豌豆、豆类或胡萝卜)中获得。本领域技术人员知晓如何基于这些起始物质加工浆。
如果木材1a被用作原始的含纤维素材料,则通常首先使其变成木片2a,然后例如通过纯机械手段或通过纯化学处理方法或通过其组合变成浆3a。因此,木材被脱木素和磨散,意味着纤维与原始木材结构分离。
然后,进行浆3a和/或3b(其优选以浆板或经急骤干燥的浆的形式,此后称为浆材料)的粗粉碎4。在这样做时,浆材料3a、3b优选地在其干状态下粉碎,意味着在粗粉碎4之前或在此期间,没有大量的液体,优选地没有液体被添加至浆材料3a、3b。在步骤4期间,浆材料3a、3b可例如具有相对于浆材料3a、3b总重量的约5至8重量%,例如7重量%的含水量。优选地,含水量通过标准EN 20638(1993年9月)确定。浆材料3a、3b的平均纤维长度优选为0.6mm至6mm。平均纤维长度优选地通过1991年的标准TAPPI T271 pm-91确定。
粗粉碎4可通过例如细网研磨机(干研磨机)、切割研磨机、锤磨机、混合器、粉碎机(shredder)和/或冲击研磨机进行。在粗粉碎步骤4之前或在此期间不需要使用碎浆机。
在粗粉碎步骤4之后,浆材料优选地以粉末(即松散材料)形式存在。在步骤4之后的浆材料的含水量仍然与浆材料3a、3b中的一种相同或至少不显著大于浆材料3a、3b中的一种。在粗粉碎4之后浆材料的平均纤维长度优选为0.025mm至6mm,更优选0.4mm至1.7mm。优选地,平均纤维长度优选地通过1991年的标准TAPPI T271 pm-91确定。
在粗粉碎4和预处理5之间,例如可通过TEMPO-氧化或羧甲基化来处理粗粉碎的浆材料。
然后对粗粉碎的浆材料进行预处理5。在预处理5期间,浆材料被分散在液体(例如上文中提及的那些)中。在预处理5期间也可使用酶,例如纤维素。包含浆材料和液体的这种分散体在精细粉碎步骤6中进一步粉碎。精细粉碎6可在例如精磨机、球磨机、匀浆器、超声装置、微流化器、喷射碰撞装置和/或低温冲刷装置中进行。特别优选的是包含由矿物材料(例如刚玉(corundum)、金刚石或碳化硅)制成的切割装置的精磨机。即使在切割装置磨损的情况下,矿物材料也总是具有微粗糙度。因此,由于它们永久的微粗糙度,由矿物材料制成的切割装置总是保持它们的切割能力。在现有技术中,使用由金属制成的切割装置。这提供了金属磨损的缺点。金属颗粒在根据本发明的个人护理组合物中是不期望的。
精细粉碎6的结果是包含液体与含有微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物之纤维材料的混合物。该混合物可用作用于制造本发明个人护理组合物的基础。
由纤维材料所包含的微米级原纤附聚物的平均长度为500nm至1000μm,更优选500nm至600μm,并且甚至更优选500nm至200μm,其中平均长度优选地根据2006年11月1日的第1版的标准ISO 13322-2确定,其通过引用并入本文。
由纤维材料所包含的纳米级原纤附聚物的平均长度为10nm至500nm。
如图4中示例性示出的,微米级原纤附聚物代表本发明个人护理组合物的组分。图2示出了存在于根据本发明的个人护理组合物中的微米级原纤附聚物之一部分的示例性视图。图2是通过电子显微镜在10’000倍的放大倍数下的获得的。可清楚地看到存在于微米级原纤附聚物内部的典型网状物结构。该网状物由多个粉碎的彼此相互连接的原纤形成。在图2的视图中,微米级原纤附聚物的一部分基本上不含可见的分离原纤,甚至完全不含可见的分离原纤,这是因为原纤仅以减小的尺寸存在,并且结合在形成微米级原纤附聚物的网状物中。为了比较,在图1中,根据现有技术方法产生的常规纤维素材料以相同的放大倍数示出。在此,独立的分离原纤明显可见并且不形成共同的网状物或结构。如图2所示,原纤之间不存在相互连接。由于通过这样的微米级原纤附聚物产生的个人护理组合物结构特别良好且无刺激性,并具有良好的干燥特性,所以这样的微米级原纤附聚物特别适合产生根据本发明的个人护理组合物。
混合物可以经干燥,例如热干燥,例如喷雾干燥,任选地在负压下和/或机械干燥,而不是直接使用混合物来制造个人护理组合物。干燥的这些类型是特别优选的,由于它们不会负面影响微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的质量,即例如微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物在干燥过程期间不会或仅轻微地自身附聚。特别地,如果用于产生微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的液体具有在常压(101325帕斯卡)下低于100℃的沸腾温度,更优选在常压(101325帕斯卡)下50℃至低于100℃的沸腾温度,甚至更优选50℃至90℃的沸腾温度,则干燥过程对微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的质量的负面影响可保持较低。低于100℃的沸腾温度,特别是低于90℃的沸腾温度提供的优点是可从混合物中除去液体而不会损坏微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物。至少50℃的沸点提供了在产生期间降低液体着火的危险的优点。干混合物优选包含相对于干混合物总重量的70重量%至100重量%,更优选80至97重量%,甚至更优选85至95重量%的固体含量。
这样的干混合物可直接用于制造根据本发明的个人护理组合物。或者,也可将干混合物再分散在液体中以形成再湿润的混合物。这种再湿润的混合物也可用于制造个人护理组合物。再润湿混合物优选包含相对于再润湿混合物总重量的多于0重量%至40重量%的固体含量。包含这样的固体含量的再润湿混合物允许产生结构良好且无刺激性的具有良好干燥特性的个人护理组合物。
图5示出了类似组合物与微原纤化纤维素的比较。微原纤化纤维素从不同的原料获得,并且不包含木糖、包含少量木糖或大量木糖。所有组合物含有相较于组合物总重量的1.51%的微原纤化纤维素。组合物的配方如下:46重量%的微原纤化纤维素混悬液(3.39%的微原纤化纤维素稠度,基于组合物总重量的1.51重量%的微原纤化纤维素)。2重量%的甘油(来自Interchimie),0.8重量%的防腐剂(来自Lonza的Mikrokill COS);4重量%的乳化剂(来自Seppic的Sepinov EMT10);46重量%的水、0.2重量%的香料和4重量%的摩洛哥坚果油。
将微原纤化纤维素、甘油、防腐剂和乳化剂的混悬液混合直至获得均匀的混悬液。在中等搅拌(500rpm)一分钟下添加摩洛哥坚果油。在高搅拌(1000rpm)下添加水,随后添加香料。
用Bresser LCD显微镜(9.8cm(3.5”)和500倍的放大倍数)记录显微镜图像。将组合物施加在显微镜载玻片上并用盖玻片覆盖。每个图像右下角指示的黑条等于5μm。图5A示出了具有不含木糖含量的微原纤化纤维素的相应图像。油滴清晰可见并且不均匀地分布在组合物中。此外,油滴具有不同的尺寸。图5B示出了具有含有8重量%木糖的微原纤化纤维素的组合物。与图5A相比,油滴更均匀地分布在水相中,但仍不是完全均匀的而且尺寸仍不相同。相比之下,图5C示出了根据本发明的微原纤化纤维素中木糖含量为15重量%的相应组合物,其显示出油滴以基本均匀的分布尺寸均匀分布在水中,导致均匀的混合物。图5D示出了具有20重量%的木糖的组合物,显示出如图5C所示的类似的均匀分布。图5A的组合物和图5C的组合物进一步经过19名专门小组成员的小组以评价皮肤感觉。在19名专门小组成员中16个小组成员偏爱组合物C超过A,相当于84.2%偏爱C超过A(15.8%)。
图6示出了图5C的组合物(图6A)和包含微晶纤维素(图6B)而不是微原纤化纤维素的组合物之间的比较。测量结果和浓度与关于图5A至D中限定的相同。如从图6B可得出的,微晶纤维素提供了油滴在水中分布较不均匀的组合物。油滴的尺寸也不同。因此,与具有微原纤化纤维素和木糖含量为15重量%的组合物相比,图6B的组合物较不均匀。
具体实施方式
在下文中,给出了如何获得根据本发明的期望的个人护理组合物的实施例。必须将这些实施例视为获得根据本发明的个人护理组合物的可能方式的非限制性举例说明。
实施例
在实施例中,水性分散体意指包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在包含水的液体中的分散体,其具有相对于水性分散体总重量的限定重量百分比的纤维材料。
实施例1:极简的凝胶基质
实施例1.1
将0.25重量%的山梨酸钾和0.25重量%的山梨酸添加至含有3.3重量%(相对于水性分散体)的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的95.5重量%的水性分散体。然后在用桨式搅拌器的温和搅拌下,将1重量%的乙醇酸、1重量%的乳酸和1重量%的(±)-2-羟基辛酸和1重量%的水溶性胶原蛋白溶解在保存的水性分散体中。然后使体系沉降直至形成半透明凝胶。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在总组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的3.15重量%。组合物中的所有成分的重量百分比总和为100重量%。
实施例1.2
在温和搅拌下,将0.4重量%的苯乐戊醇和0.2重量%的乙基甘油添加至含有3.3重量%(相对于水性分散体)的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的96.63重量%的水性分散体。然后,在用桨式搅拌器的温和搅拌下,将2重量%的水杨酸、1.3重量%的(±)-2-羟基辛酸和0.05重量%的透明质酸钠溶解在保存的水性分散体中。然后使体系沉降直至形成不含表面活性剂的半透明凝胶。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在总组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的3.19重量%。组合物中的所有成分的重量百分比总和为100重量%。
实施例1.3:用于面部面膜的极简凝胶基质
在温和搅拌下,将4重量%的甘油添加至含有3.3重量%(相对于水性分散体)的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的90.6重量%的水性分散体。在温和搅拌下,向该混合物中添加0.4重量%的苯氧基乙醇、0.2重量%的乙基甘油和0.4重量%的对羟基苯甲酸甲酯。然后将4重量%的聚(丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠-共-乙烯基吡咯烷酮)共聚物添加至前述混合物,并温和搅拌该体系直至获得均匀的团块。然后使体系沉降直至形成半透明的不含表面活性剂的凝胶。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在总组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的3.0重量%。组合物中的所有成分的重量百分比总和为100重量%。
实施例2:极简乳膏-凝胶基质
实施例2.1
在温和搅拌下,将2重量%的甘油添加至含有3.3重量%(相对于水性分散体)的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的46重量%的水性分散体。在温和搅拌下,向该混合物中添加0.3重量%的苯氧基乙醇、0.2重量%的乙基甘油和0.2重量%的对羟基苯甲酸甲酯。然后将1重量%的聚(丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠-共-乙烯基吡咯烷酮)共聚物添加至前述混合物,并温和搅拌该体系直至获得致密均匀的凝胶团块。然后在用溶解器的剧烈搅拌下将4重量%的摩洛哥坚果油添加至该团块,直至形成均匀的凝胶样乳剂。然后添加46重量%的水形成透明的不含表面活性剂的乳白色乳膏-凝胶。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在总组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的1.5重量%。组合物中的所有成分的重量百分比总和为100重量%。
实施例2.2
在温和搅拌下,用去离子水将含有10重量%(相对于浓缩的水性分散体)的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的浓缩水性分散体稀释3.85倍,以获得含有2.6重量%(相对于稀释的水性分散体)的包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的稀释水性分散体。将97.48重量%的稀释水性分散体放置在容器中。在温和搅拌下添加0.5g胶原蛋白直至获得均匀的团块。在温和搅拌下向该混合物中添加0.02重量%的BRONOPOL。然后,将0.5重量%的聚(丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠-共-乙烯基吡咯烷酮)共聚物添加至前述混合物,并温和搅拌该体系直至获得致密均匀的凝胶团块。最后,在用溶解器的剧烈搅拌下向该团块添加1.5重量%的摩洛哥坚果油直至形成均匀的凝胶样乳剂。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在总组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的2.53重量%。组合物中的所有成分的重量百分比总和为100重量%。
实施例3:身体乳
在温和搅拌下,将0.33重量%的苯氧基乙醇、0.25重量%的乙基甘油和0.3重量%的对羟基苯甲酸甲酯添加至含有3.3重量%包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料的28.5重量%的水性分散体中。然后将0.52重量%的聚(丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠-共-乙烯基吡咯烷酮)共聚物添加至前述混合物,并温和搅拌该体系直至获得致密均匀的凝胶团块。然后在用溶解器的剧烈搅拌下,将2.5重量%的油梨油(Avocado oil)和1.5重量%的异壬酸异壬酯添加至该团块,直至形成均匀的凝胶样乳剂。然后添加65.8重量%的水以形成透明的不含表面活性剂的乳白色乳膏-凝胶,向其中添加0.3重量%的香料。包含微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的纤维材料在总组合物中的水平为相对于组合物总重量的0.94重量%。组合物中的所有成分的重量百分比总和为100重量%。
实施例4:感官结果感官结果
将根据实施例2.2的乳膏-凝胶提交至16名专门小组成员的小组进行评价。该测试是严格单一的,并且没有给出关于应用该产品的特定方法的指导。给予每个专门小组成员从市场中选择基准的自由。每种感官属性的强度是根据0(最低)至5(最高)的尺度评价的。每种感官属性的愉悦度也是根据0(不愉快)至5(非常愉快)的尺度评价的。结果报告在表1和2中。
表1:在施用乳膏-凝胶期间的感官评估
属性 | 强度 | 愉悦度 |
样品均匀性 | 5 | 5 |
皮肤渗透 | 4 | 5 |
湿润的感觉 | 3 | 4 |
凉爽的效果 | 2 | 4 |
黏稠度 | 2 | 5 |
表2:在施用乳膏-凝胶之后的感官评估
属性 | 强度 | 愉悦度 |
皮肤上的残余物 | 2 | 5 |
皮肤外观 | 4.5 | 5 |
皮肤感觉 | 4 | 4 |
皮肤紧绷度 | 0 | 4 |
与化妆品的相容性 | 5 | 5 |
专门小组成员从市场中选择了以下基准:Nivea护手乳膏、Nivea乳液、Avène、Matis crème紧肤霜、Lancome Hyda Zen、Nuxe Nuxuriance Sérum Concentré、Redensifiant Antiage、Dexeryl crème。
如从表1和表2中的感官结果以及从由专门小组成员提出的基准的选择中明显的,根据本发明的乳膏-凝胶在化妆品领域中的定位是优异的。
参考数字
1a 木材 3b 浆材料
1b 一年生植物 4 粗糙粉碎
2a 木片 5 预处理
3a 浆材料 6 精细粉碎
Claims (16)
1.毛发护理或毛发清洁组合物或者皮肤护理或皮肤清洁组合物,其包含液体和从植物获得的具有天然来源的纤维材料,其中所述纤维材料包含以网状物结构相互连接并且联合成微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的微原纤,其中所述微米级原纤附聚物的平均长度为500nm至1000μm,其中所述纳米级原纤附聚物的平均长度为10nm至500nm,所述组合物的特征在于:所述微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物包含相对于所述纤维材料总重量的多于10重量%的木糖。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述组合物的可见颗粒的总数的不多于百分之五为可见的分离原纤。
3.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述纤维材料是从桉树,从巴西桉树(Eucalyptus Urograndis)树木,或从山毛榉树获得的。
4.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述纤维材料是从未经化学处理的植物浆获得的。
5.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述组合物包含相对于所述组合物总重量的0.1至30重量%的所述纤维材料。
6.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其包含:
a.)相对于所述组合物总重量的0.1至30重量%的所述纤维材料;
b.)相对于所述组合物总重量的至多25重量%的一种或更多种多元醇;
c.)相对于所述组合物总重量的至多5重量%的一种或更多种防腐剂;
d.)不同于b.)中提及的一种或更多种多元醇并且不同于c)中提及的一种或更多种防腐剂的一种或更多种功能性成分;以及
e.)用于补全至100重量%的水。
7.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其包含:
a.)任选地一种或更多种防腐剂;以及
b.)一种或更多种功能性成分,其选自:合成聚合物、天然聚合物、溶剂、多元醇、表面活性剂、完全或部分中和的α-羟基酸、完全或部分中和的β-羟基酸、完全或部分中和的二羧酸、完全或部分中和的透明质酸、C10-C24脂肪酸及其盐和其酯、C10-C24脂肪醇及其酯、聚氧乙基甘油醚、蛋白质和肽、胶原蛋白、糖脂、磷脂、鞘脂、甾醇和类固醇、尿囊素、咖啡因、氨基酸及其衍生物、季胺、碱性碱、类黄酮和异黄酮、多酚、花色素苷、有机染料、色素、维生素及其衍生物、萜及其衍生物、倍半萜及其衍生物、三萜及其衍生物、泛醌、蜡和黄油、碳水化合物和糖醇以及它们的衍生物、矿物和植物颗粒、膨润土、硅藻土、高岭土、二氧化钛;以及
c.)任选地一种或更多种植物提取物、一种或更多种植物汁、一种或更多种精油和/或香料;以及
d.)水。
8.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其包含至少一种合成或天然的亲水聚合物。
9.根据权利要求8所述的组合物,其中所述至少一种合成或天然的亲水聚合物是选自包含以下的组的共聚物或三元共聚物:乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酸盐/酯共聚物,来源于(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯、(甲基)丙烯酸和丙烯酰胺基二甲基牛磺酸以及它们的盐的共聚物和交联聚合物,乙烯基吡咯烷酮/丙烯酰胺基烷基磺酸共聚物;黄原胶、脱氢黄原胶、瓜尔胶、阿拉伯胶、金合欢胶、菌核胶、长角豆胶;短梗霉聚糖、聚糖、糖基氨基聚糖、卡拉胶、藻酸盐/酯、果胶、透明质酸及其盐、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、壳聚糖,及其混合物;并且其中所述聚合物在所述组合物中的水平为相对于所述组合物总重量的0.05至10重量%。
10.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其包含至少一种多元醇,其中所述至少一种多元醇在所述组合物中的水平为相对于所述组合物总重量的0.5至50重量%。
11.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其包含至少一种油,其中所述至少一种油在所述组合物中的水平为相对于所述组合物总重量的0.5至50重量%。
12.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其包含一种或更多种表面活性剂。
13.用于产生根据权利要求1所述的组合物的方法,其至少包括以下步骤:
a.)通过机械手段粉碎干浆(4);
b.)使所述粉碎的浆分散在液体中(5);以及
c.)进一步粉碎分散在所述液体中的浆,以形成包含所述液体与纤维材料的混合物(6),所述纤维材料包含以网状物结构相互连接并且联合成微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物的微原纤;
其特征在于:所述微米级和/或纳米级原纤附聚物含有相对于所述纤维材料总重量的多于10重量%的木糖。
14.根据权利要求13所述的方法,其包括另外的步骤:
d.)向所述混合物中添加至少一种功能性成分。
15.根据权利要求13所述的方法,其中在步骤a.)中,所述干浆在不添加任何液体的情况下进行粉碎。
16.根据权利要求1至12之一所述的组合物,其通过根据权利要求13至15之一所述的方法获得。
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US20140155301A1 (en) | 2012-11-30 | 2014-06-05 | Api Intellectual Property Holdings, Llc | Processes and apparatus for producing nanocellulose, and compositions and products produced therefrom |
FI126755B (en) | 2014-04-28 | 2017-05-15 | Kemira Oyj | A process for preparing a suspension from microfibrillated cellulose, microfibrillated cellulose and its use |
EP3792395A1 (en) * | 2014-05-30 | 2021-03-17 | Borregaard AS | Microfibrillated cellulose |
FI127904B2 (en) | 2014-08-13 | 2023-04-14 | Upm Kymmene Corp | Method for preparing nanofibrillated cellulose |
EP3081209A1 (en) | 2015-04-13 | 2016-10-19 | Borregaard AS | Skin care compositions comprising microfibrillated cellulose |
-
2018
- 2018-04-05 EP EP18715702.9A patent/EP3606500B1/en active Active
- 2018-04-05 US US16/603,289 patent/US11278475B2/en active Active
- 2018-04-05 EP EP23182858.3A patent/EP4265237A1/en active Pending
- 2018-04-05 ES ES18715702T patent/ES2965398T3/es active Active
- 2018-04-05 CN CN202310834383.1A patent/CN116919865A/zh active Pending
- 2018-04-05 PL PL18715702.9T patent/PL3606500T3/pl unknown
- 2018-04-05 CN CN201880023172.7A patent/CN110505868B/zh active Active
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CN110505868A (zh) | 2019-11-26 |
US11696876B2 (en) | 2023-07-11 |
US20210007941A1 (en) | 2021-01-14 |
EP3606500A1 (en) | 2020-02-12 |
CN116919865A (zh) | 2023-10-24 |
WO2018185230A1 (en) | 2018-10-11 |
EP3606500B1 (en) | 2023-10-04 |
US20220160591A1 (en) | 2022-05-26 |
ES2965398T3 (es) | 2024-04-15 |
EP4265237A1 (en) | 2023-10-25 |
PL3606500T3 (pl) | 2024-03-18 |
BR112019020927A2 (pt) | 2020-04-28 |
CN110505868B (zh) | 2023-07-28 |
EP4239124A2 (en) | 2023-09-06 |
US11278475B2 (en) | 2022-03-22 |
EP4239124A3 (en) | 2023-10-25 |
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