CN115369545B - Double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and a preparation method thereof. The preparation of the woolen fabric comprises the following steps: (1) weaving: warp yarn: rough spinning; weft yarn: rough yarn and loop yarn; selecting double-sided surface and inner surface layers for organization, and weaving to obtain double-sided lattice woolen cloth; (2) post-finishing: and (3) sequentially performing blank inspection, raw repair, brushing, barrel sewing, primary washing, dehydration, wool shrinking, fine washing, dehydration, softening, drying, fluffing, thorn drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the wool fabric obtained in the step (S01) to obtain the double-sided lattice type wool/grain surface staggered wool fabric. The invention uses the non-steel needle to fuzzing, only the thorn fruit to fuzzing, the part of the loop yarn is convex and has small twist, the loop yarn is fully and uniformly woven, the yarn twist of the part of the wool yarn is large, the wool is compact, no wool is produced, and the style of interweaving along the wool texture surface is formed on the fabric.

Description

Double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of wool weaving, in particular to a double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The double-sided tweed fabric is a fabric for female clothing, is produced by using a traditional ring spinning process, and has simple process and strong spinnability. After weaving by a loom, the double-layer structure slub fabric is finished by subsequent procedures such as napping, shearing and the like, and has a certain wool height but no open bottom, and the wool on the surface of the double-layer structure slub fabric is along one direction, so the double-layer structure slub fabric is called as a tweed. The forward facing fabric is softer, attractive in appearance and convenient to clean. The most of the existing double-sided wool fabric is semi-worsted to obtain double-sided heterochromatic wool fabric, for example, the application number is: 201610857469.6 discloses a semi-worsted double-sided different-color smooth corrugated woolen and a production process thereof; the application number is: 2010105555578.5 discloses a processing method of semi-worsted ultra-thin double-sided cis-wool fabric.

In addition to the smooth surface fabric, the styles of products in the market at present are the grain surface, woolen surface, raised surface and the like, but two styles of products do not appear on the same surface fabric at the same time, if the double surfaces of the products are all made into the smooth/grain surface interwoven lattices on the same surface fabric, the problem of single style of the surface fabric is solved, and the surface fabric which is elegant in style and suitable for daily wear is formed. The novel style is developed for the development of the fabric.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the prior art, the invention aims to provide a double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and a preparation method thereof. The invention designs the fabric, and then carries out post-finishing design according to the characteristics of the fabric. In the design of the woven fabric, the warp yarn adopts the rough yarn, and the weft yarn is the rough yarn and the loop yarn 1:1, arranging; and then the steel needle is not used for fuzzing, only the thorn fruit is used for fuzzing, the part of the loop yarn is raised and has small twist, the loop yarn is fully and uniformly woven, the yarn twist of the part of the wool yarn is large, the wool is compact, no wool is produced, and the interweaving style along the wool texture surface is formed on the fabric.

In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

The invention provides a preparation method of woolen fabric, which comprises the following steps:

s01, weaving: warp yarn: rough spinning; weft yarn: rough yarn and loop yarn; the roving yarn comprises a roving yarn A and a roving yarn B; the loop yarn comprises loop yarn C and loop yarn D; the heddle is X;

through the row: 1B1A; weft rows: (1 A1B1D 1B) n+ (1B 1A1C 1A) n; drafting: (1, 2, … …, X/2) n+ (X/2+1, … …, X) n;

selecting double-sided surface and inner surface layers for organization, and weaving to obtain double-sided lattice woolen fabric;

s02, after-treatment: and (3) sequentially performing blank inspection, raw repair, brushing, barrel sewing, primary washing, dehydration, wool shrinking, fine washing, dehydration, softening, drying, fluffing, thorn drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the wool fabric obtained in the step (S01) to obtain the double-sided lattice type wool/grain surface staggered wool fabric.

When weaving, every four grids are in a cycle, namely, warp rows: 1B1A; weft rows: and (1A 1B1D 1B) n+ (1B 1A1C 1A) n, weaving to obtain the four-lattice fabric, wherein the four-lattice fabric is formed by the following steps of: cis Mao Ge, land grid, cis Mao Ge. n is the number of cycles, and n is about large, the larger the area of each lattice obtained.

Preferably, in the step S01, the spun yarn is 11-16S yarn woven from 66-100S all wool or blended wool; the twist coefficient is 13 to 13.5.

The usable range of the yarn count is 11-16 counts, so that different gram weight requirements of the fabric are met; the raw materials are widely used, and 66 to 100 wool can be used; can be used for all-wool or blended spinning; the fabric can be rough and fine. The setting of the twist coefficient makes the yarn twist slightly larger, and the yarn is not easy to be napped.

The spun yarn is preferably 14S yarn, i.e. 14/1 yarn.

Preferably, in the step S01, the decorative yarn in the loop yarn is made of 64S Su Libei Bei Yang camel hair, and the fixed yarn and the core yarn are made of 100-150D polyester filaments; the twist of the decorative yarn is 240-280 twists/m; the specification of the loop yarn is 7-10S.

The decorative yarn is mainly alpaca (the alpaca is soft, smooth and gorgeous), the weft yarn is arranged to be arranged in a ratio of 1:1 between the woolen yarn and the loop yarn, and the problem that the whole loop yarn is not good to be woven is solved; the loop yarn is raised and is easy to be napped.

Preferably, in step S01, 2/2 double-sided outer/inner layer is selected as the double-sided outer/inner layer; the heddle is 16.

Preferably, the primary washing is rope-shaped washing, 3wt% of anti-staining agent is additionally added except for adding a lotion, a light shrinking machine is used for shrinking the wool, the shrinking time is controlled within 15min, the hand feeling of the shrinking wool is realized, and the problems of staining, yarn winding felt combination and the like are avoided.

Preferably, the fluffing-piercing is finished by a piercing machine after the woolen blank is pressed with water. The fuzzing is carried out without moving a steel needle, the fuzzing is carried out on thorns, the fuzzing force reaches to the contact surface of the thorns from small, the loop yarns are pulled open, the fuzzing is carried out to be smooth, and meanwhile, the pulled fuzzing is pulled thoroughly, uniformly and smoothly by a thorn fruit machine; the yarn twist of the slub yarn part is large and compact, and the fuzzing force is insufficient to pull the part out of fuzz, thus laying a foundation for the smooth fuzz/grain surface style. The pressure of the water pump is set to be 6kg, and the speed of the water pump is set to be 10m/min; before thorn pulling, the thorn fruits are thoroughly irrigated and slowly pulled for 8-10 times.

Preferably, in step S02, the shaping includes: wet brushing, pressing water, drying, shearing, steaming continuously, and steaming woolen cloth; the time of the wet brushing is 20-24 hours; the temperature of the drying is 120-130 ℃; the steam ratio of the continuous steaming is 90%, the air suction expanding is 100%, and the vehicle speed is 10m/min; the wrapping pressure of the steamed woolen is 4kg, the pressing bar pressure is 2kg, and the choke plug time is 200s.

Preferably, in step S02, the speed of the preshrinking is 8m/min, the steam pressure is more than or equal to 3.5kg, the temperature of hot air shaping is 110 ℃, the width of the beating is 158cm, and the overfeeding is 8%.

Preferably, in step S02, the temperature of the ironing light is 220-240 ℃. The long wool pulled out of the alpaca raw material of the loop yarn part is subjected to ironing, so that the surface of the fabric is smooth and straight, and the glossiness is good; the grain surface lattice part is clearer and the style contrast is obvious.

In a second aspect of the invention, a double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric prepared by the preparation method is provided.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) The double-sided lattice type smooth/textured surface staggered woolen fabric prepared by the invention has one side of smooth/textured surface lattice type staggered and the other side of textured surface/smooth Mao Ge type staggered. Through the spinning design, the warp adopts the rough spinning, and the weft is rough spinning yarn and loop yarn 1:1, the smooth surface fabric is obtained through ring yarn napping, the grain surface style is obtained through slub yarn spinning, and the double-sided lattice product with the same surface having the smooth surface style and the grain surface style is obtained, so that the style and the grade of the fabric are further improved, and the application of the woolen fabric is widened.

(2) The invention uses the non-steel needle to fuzzing, only the thorn fruit to fuzzing, the part of the loop yarn is convex and has small twist, the loop yarn is fully and uniformly woven, the yarn twist of the part of the wool yarn is large, the wool is compact, no wool is produced, and the style of interweaving along the wool texture surface is formed on the fabric.

(3) The double-sided lattice type product technology of the woolen fabric simultaneously solves the problem of single same-sided style, and can also be used for manufacturing various lattice type products so as to meet the requirements of different customers on different groups on the style, thickness and fineness of the fabric.

Drawings

Fig. 1: schematic diagrams of the front and back sides of the product in the same position.

Fig. 2: the knitting design of the single-sided single stitch of the present invention is schematically represented.

Detailed Description

It should be noted that the following detailed description is illustrative and is intended to provide further explanation of the application. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs.

As described in the background section, the common woolen fabric on the market is generally double-sided common Mao Maone, and common woolen cloth is generally used for women's clothing fabric; in order to widen the application range of the cis-Mao Maone, a new cis-wool fabric needs to be designed.

Based on the above, the invention aims to provide a double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric and a preparation method thereof. The invention designs the fabric, and then carries out post-finishing design according to the characteristics of the fabric. In the design of the woven fabric, the warp yarn adopts the rough yarn, and the weft yarn is the rough yarn and the loop yarn 1:1, the wool fabric is obtained by ring yarn napping, the grain surface style is obtained by spinning the slub yarn, and the double-sided lattice type product with the two styles of wool and grain surface on the same surface is obtained (see figure 1). When weaving, every four grids are in a cycle, namely, warp rows: 1B1A; weft rows: and (1A 1B1D 1B) n+ (1B 1A1C 1A) n, weaving to obtain the four-lattice fabric, wherein the four-lattice fabric is formed by the following steps of: cis Mao Ge, land grid, cis Mao Ge. n is the number of cycles, with n being approximately greater, the greater the area of each cell obtained (see fig. 2). 2/2 double-sided surface-to-inner layer exchange is adopted, and the warp and weft tissues on the back surface are opposite to those on the front surface.

In the post-finishing design, the raised looped yarns are raised and evenly twisted by using the non-steel needle fuzzing and the only thorn fuzzing, and the yarn twist of the looped yarns is large and compact, so that the fuzzing is avoided, and the interweaving style of the fuzzing surface is formed on the fabric.

In order to enable those skilled in the art to more clearly understand the technical scheme of the present application, the technical scheme of the present application will be described in detail with reference to specific embodiments.

The test materials used in the examples of the present invention are all conventional in the art and are commercially available.

Examples

(1) Woven cloth

The warp yarn is 14/1 yarn; the weft yarn is 9S loop yarn;

Let A:14/1 black, B:14/1 red, C: loop yarn 9S red, D: the loop yarn 9S is black.

Through the row: 1B1A/2, weft rows: (1A 1B1D 1B) n+ (1B 1A1C 1A) n,

16 Brown yarns are selected and used for drafting: and (1 234 56 7 8) n, (9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16) n, selecting 2/2 double-sided surface and inner surface layers for organization, and weaving to obtain the woolen fabrics with different front and back colors.

As can be seen from fig. 2, in square 1, the front warp yarn shows B:14/1 red, weft yarn shows A:14/1 black and D: the loop yarn 9S is black and smooth; the reverse warp yarn shows a:14/1 black, weft yarn shows B:14/1 red, is a striated surface.

In pane 2, the front warp yarn shows a:14/1 black, weft yarn shows B:14/1 red, is a grain surface; the reverse warp yarn shows B:14/1 red, weft yarn shows A:14/1 black and D: the loop yarn 9S is black and is smooth.

In pane 3, the front warp yarn shows B:14/1 red, weft yarn shows A:14/1 black, is a grain surface; the reverse warp yarn shows a:14/1 black, weft yarn shows B:14/1 red and C: the loop yarn 9S is red and is smooth;

grid 4: front warp yarn display a:14/1 black, weft yarn shows B:14/1 red and C: the loop yarn 9S is red and is smooth; and displaying B on the back warp yarn: 14/1 red, weft yarn shows A:14/1 black, is a textured surface.

N is 55.

The warp yarn was made of 66S wool with a twist multiplier of 13. The 9S loop yarn is made of 100D polyester filaments as core-spun yarn, the decorative yarn is 64S Su Libei Bei Yang camel hair, and the twist of the decorative yarn is 240 twists/m.

(2) Post-finishing

Blank inspection: checking process, namely checking the surface fabric defects and yarn defects of the woolen blanks.

And (3) repairing: various defects caused by spinning on the surface of the woolen blank are removed, the quality of the woolen blank is improved, and the surface of the woolen blank is ensured to be smooth and clean.

Brushing: removing floating hair, thread ends or sundries floating on the surface of the fabric, flattening the woolen surface and providing quality guarantee for the next working procedure.

And (3) sewing a barrel: and sewing two sides of the woolen blank into a bag shape along the warp direction. When the woolen blank is tidied, a certain amount of air (10-20 vt%) can be kept in the middle of the bag shape, and defects such as crease, curled edge, weft skew and the like can be prevented when the woolen blank is washed and shrunk.

Primary washing: in order to avoid staining of different colors, the rope-shaped washing woolen is additionally added with 3 percent of staining-proof agent besides the lotion,

Dehydrating: the washed woolen blanks enter a dehydrator to dehydrate for 8-9 minutes, and the dehydration rate reaches more than 80%.

Milling: the shrinking machine is used for shrinking the woolen cloth, the shrinking time is controlled within 15 minutes, the hand feeling of the shrinking woolen cloth is achieved, and the problems of staining, yarn winding felt doubling and the like are avoided. The shrink agent used was FK-616A (available from Beijing midspin chemical Co., ltd.).

And (3) fine washing: warm water at 35-40 ℃ is used for cleaning materials in the process, and the washing machine is fully filled with water for 2-3 times.

Dehydrating: the washed woolen blanks enter a dehydrator to be dehydrated for 10 minutes, so that the woolen blanks are convenient to transport and process in the next working procedure.

Softening: 1% of super-soft finishing agent is added into the water tank, and the woolen blanks after the seam is broken down and the yarns enter the water mangle in an open width manner, so that wrinkles can be eliminated, and the smoothness of the woolen surfaces is ensured.

And (3) drying: and (5) turning 160cm, overfeeding 8% to keep the fabric to be certain moisture regained, and removing wrinkles in the previous working procedure.

Fuzzing-piercing: the pressing of the woolen blanks is completed in a fruit needling machine. The fuzzing is carried out without moving a steel needle, the fuzzing is carried out on thorns, the fuzzing force reaches to the contact surface of the thorns from small, the loop yarns are pulled open, the fuzzing is carried out to be smooth, and meanwhile, the pulled fuzzing is pulled thoroughly, uniformly and smoothly by a thorn fruit machine; the yarn twist of the slub yarn part is large and compact, and the fuzzing force is insufficient to pull the part out of fuzz, thus laying a foundation for the smooth fuzz/grain surface style. The pressure of the water pump is set to be 6kg, and the speed of the water pump is set to be 10m/min; before thorn pulling, the thorn fruits are thoroughly irrigated and slowly pulled for 8-10 times.

Shaping: comprising the following steps: wet brushing, pressing water, drying, shearing, steaming continuously, and steaming woolen cloth; the pressurized water is added with 30g of novel environment-friendly setting agent MD-190 (purchased from Shanghai Mei Dajia chemical industry Co., ltd.) and the wet brushing setting time is 20-24 hours; the drying temperature is 120-130 ℃; the environment-friendly setting agent with the weight ratio of 3% is added in the front and back of the groove of the water pressing machine during water pressing; the steam pressure of the continuous steam is 4kg, the steam ratio is 90% (the steam ratio refers to the amount of steam pumped in unit time of two high-power air-cooling blowers of the continuous steam, the required steam pressure is not lower than 4 kg), the air suction and the amplitude expansion are 100%, and the vehicle speed is 10m/min; the steaming woolen adopts a WPF-900AB efficient decating machine, the wrapping pressure is 4kg, the pressing bar pressure is 2kg, and the stuffiness is 200 seconds.

Preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 8m/min, the steam pressure is 3.5kg and above, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 110 ℃, the width of the vehicle is 158cm, and the overfeeding is 8%.

Scalding: the ironing temperature is 220-240 ℃, and long wool pulled out of the alpaca raw material of the looped yarn part is subjected to ironing to lead the surface of the fabric to be smooth and straight, and the glossiness is good; the grain surface lattice part is clearer and the style contrast is obvious.

Shearing: the naps with uneven lengths are sheared, so that naps on the woolen surface are level, the appearance is improved, and pilling can be reduced.

Obtaining the double-sided lattice product with the same surface texture and the same wool.

The product quality index is shown in Table 1:

TABLE 1

	Tearing strength	Breaking strength	Shrink water	De-seaming	Vapor shrinkage rate
						Standard requirements	≧15N	≥157	≥-3.0	≦6	-1.0～+1.5
Examples	16	220	-2.3	4	-0.5

As shown in Table 1, the woolen fabric prepared by the invention has the characteristics of excellent style, and the comprehensive indexes of the woolen blank such as tearing strength, breaking strength, shrinkage, seam release, steam shrinkage, pilling, color fastness and the like all meet the requirements of national standard GB/T26378 superior products.

The above description is only of the preferred embodiments of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application, but various modifications and variations can be made to the present application by those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present application should be included in the protection scope of the present application.

Claims (1)

1. The double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric is characterized by being prepared by the following method:

s01, weaving: warp yarn: rough spinning; weft yarn: rough yarn and loop yarn; the roving yarn comprises a roving yarn A and a roving yarn B; the loop yarn comprises loop yarn C and loop yarn D; the heddle is X;

through the row: 1B1A; weft rows: (1 A1B1D 1B) n+ (1B 1A1C 1A) n; drafting: (1, 2, … …, X/2) n+ (X/2+1, … …, X) n;

selecting double-sided surface and inner surface layers for organization, and weaving to obtain double-sided lattice woolen cloth;

The slub yarn is 11-16S yarn woven by 66-100S full wool or blended wool; the twist coefficient is 13-13.5;

The decorative yarn in the loop yarn is made of 64S Su Libei Bei Yang camel hair, and the fixed yarn and the core yarn are made of 100-150D polyester filaments; the yarn count of the decorative yarn is 13-16 counts, and the twist is 240-280 twists/m; the specification of the loop yarn is 7-10S; 2/2 double-sided surface-to-inner layer exchange is adopted; the heddle is 16;

S02, after-treatment: sequentially performing blank inspection, raw repair, brushing, barrel sewing, primary washing, dehydration, wool shrinking, fine washing, dehydration, softening, drying, fluffing, thorn drawing, shaping, preshrinking, ironing and shearing on the wool fabric obtained in the step S01 to obtain a double-sided lattice type wool/grain staggered wool fabric;

The fluffing-piercing is finished by a piercing machine after the woolen blank is pressed with water; fuzzing is fuzzing without steel needles and fuzzing with thorn fruits; the pressure of the water pump is set to be 6kg, and the speed of the water pump is set to be 10m/min; before thorn pulling, the thorn fruits are thoroughly irrigated and slowly pulled for 8-10 times;

the shaping comprises the following steps: wet brushing, pressing water, drying, shearing, steaming continuously, and steaming woolen cloth; the time of the wet brushing is 20-24 hours; the temperature of the drying is 120-130 ℃; the steam ratio of the continuous steaming is 90%, the air suction expanding is 100%, and the vehicle speed is 10m/min; the wrapping pressure of the steamed woolen is 4kg, the pressing bar pressure is 2kg, and the choke plug time is 200s;

the speed of the preshrinking is 8m/min, the steam pressure is more than or equal to 3.5kg, the temperature of hot air shaping is 110 ℃, the width of the driving is 158cm, and the overfeeding is 8%;

the scalding temperature is 220-240 ℃.