CN114272150A

CN114272150A - Cutin stripping composition for cutin layer tissue and cutin stripping product

Info

Publication number: CN114272150A
Application number: CN202111597606.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 李嘉欣; 杨翠兰; 周家灵; 邱太龙
Original assignee: Nox Bellcow Cosmetics Co Ltd
Current assignee: Nox Bellcow Cosmetics Co Ltd
Priority date: 2021-12-24
Filing date: 2021-12-24
Publication date: 2022-04-05

Abstract

The invention discloses a cutin stripping composition and a cutin stripping product aiming at cutin layer tissues. The cutin stripping composition mainly comprises a solvent, polyhydric alcohol, a soothing agent, a cutin isolate and an excipient, wherein the cutin isolate is a compound of mandelic acid and sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine, the excipient is sphingosine mycophenolate mofetil which is an extract from fermentation, and the cutin stripping composition endows the product with the shape and has the moisturizing effect. The cutin stripping composition has stable structure, is matched with a local membrane sleeve, and can be used for gently and effectively stripping cutin aiming at a local position.

Description

Cutin stripping composition for cutin layer tissue and cutin stripping product

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a keratolytic composition and a keratolytic product for cutin layer tissue; more specifically, the present invention relates to a keratolytic composition and a keratolytic product having a good effect using sphingosine bacteria gum as an excipient.

Background

Keratinous care is a non-negligible part of human care. Normal exfoliation of keratinocytes in the stratum corneum is essential, which not only maintains the healthy appearance of the skin but also gives the skin a very good protection against physical, chemical and physiological insults, and with prolonged rubbing and pressure, the skin is prone to develop dead skin calluses, especially dead skin calluses at the heel, elbow, finger joints, knee, etc. and increase in weight.

Several techniques for exfoliating dead skin are disclosed in the prior art, for example:

chinese patent 202010266326.4 discloses a dead skin removing device, which comprises a shell, an oil drum and a dead skin removing structure, wherein the shell is divided into a working end and an oil drum mounting end, the working end is used for contacting skin and removing dead skin, and the oil drum mounting end is used for mounting the oil drum; wherein, the working end is an inclined plane and is provided with a sheet-shaped peeler which is connected with the shell in a sliding way; the dead skin removing structure comprises a plurality of rollers and an annular dead skin removing belt, the inside and the outside of the dead skin removing structure are respectively contacted with the corresponding rollers, and a plurality of small bulges used for cleaning the dead skin are arranged on the outer surface of the dead skin removing belt. The Chinese utility model 201920170137.X discloses a skin dead skin removing and foot rubbing device for dermatology, which comprises a first handheld piece, a second handheld piece and a bolt; wherein, first handheld piece passes through bolt and the handheld cross bolted connection of second, and the one end of first handheld piece is fixed to bond has corase grind layer (4), and the other end is fixed to bond has the brush layer, and the one end of second handheld piece is fixed to bond has the grindstone layer, and the other end is fixed to bond has the fine grind layer. These techniques belong to purely physical exfoliating techniques.

Chinese patent application 202110423717.7 discloses a hand-held device for exfoliating skin in dermatology, which comprises a shell, a driving chamber and a waste scrap chamber, wherein the upper part of the shell is provided with the waste scrap chamber; wherein, the biax that is equipped with first drive shaft and second drive shaft has been installed in the driving chamber and has been stretched the motor, is equipped with fan blade in the first drive shaft, is equipped with the buffing mechanism in the second drive shaft, and the buffing mechanism includes liquid medicine container and friction plate, and liquid medicine container and second drive shaft key-type connection are equipped with a plurality of atomising heads on the friction plate. This technique removes thicker and harder cutin by a physico-chemical method of softening with a liquid and polishing cutin with a rubbing plate. But it does not disclose a liquid drug formulation.

Chinese patent application 201510893699.3 discloses a nourishing type dead skin removing cream suitable for neutral skin, comprising stearic acid, white oil, cetyl alcohol, lanolin ether, glyceryl monostearate, propylene glycol, jojoba oil, polyethylene powder, talcum powder, Carbopol-940, KOH, pepper extract, tremella extract and deionized water; 201510896793.4 discloses a nourishing dead skin removing paste suitable for dry skin, which comprises jojoba oil, white oil, isopropyl myristate, Sepigel305, propylene glycol, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene powder, pulvis Talci, Carbopol-940, KOH, Capsici fructus extract, Tremella extract and deionized water; 201510896361.3 discloses a nourishing exfoliating scrub for foot, which comprises sea salt, white oil, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether succinate xanthate, lanolin ether, glyceryl monostearate, propylene glycol, jojoba oil, polyethylene powder, talcum powder, Carbopol-940, KOH, hot pepper extract, white fungus extract and deionized water; these techniques belong to the removal of dead skin by chemical means.

The dead skin cutin of the skin is mainly composed of keratin, which is insoluble in water and oil, but can be decomposed by strong acid, strong base and proteolytic enzyme. However, the traditional strong base or strong acid can cause some damage and irritation to the skin. In addition, some cutin peeling products can be decomposed to soften the dead skin cutin, but the dead skin cutin cannot fall off, and a cutin removing scrub or even an instrument is added to assist in removing the dead skin, so that the cutin peeling products are troublesome and easy to injure; still another part of cutin peeling products need to be used for a plurality of times to be effective, so that the efficiency is low, and the trust of consumers to the products is low. Although the product on the market at present has efficacy, the experience feeling is poor, the material is rare, the product can easily flow to other places, and the product is unstable when being made into thick material.

Thus, there is a need to provide a keratolytic product that works well.

Disclosure of Invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide a highly effective exfoliating composition that is milder, more effective, and more targeted than commercial products;

another object of the present invention is to provide a keratolytic product using the above-mentioned keratolytic composition, which enables the targeted exfoliation of the cutin of the dead skin calluses such as heel, elbow, finger joints, knee, etc. by consumers. The cutin stripping product comprises a cutin stripping composition and a film sleeve, wherein the matching of the cutin stripping composition can achieve mild and effective effect of Xian, the system is stable, and dead skin can be specifically removed by matching with a local film sleeve.

In one aspect, to achieve the object of the present invention, the present invention provides a keratolytic composition for keratinous layer tissue, comprising the following components in weight percent:

solvent: 10 to 30 percent

Polyol: 1-10%, preferably 2-6%

Keratinous isolate: 4 to 10 percent of

A soothing agent: 0.5 to 2 percent

Excipient: 0.1 to 1 percent

And the balance: water (W)

Wherein the adopted cutin isolate is a compound of mandelic acid and sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine;

the adopted solvent is lower alcohol which can increase the solubility of mandelic acid;

the polyol can disperse the excipient and bring the moisturizing effect;

the adopted soothing agent can relieve the irritation caused by the solvent and the keratin isolate;

the polyol used is at least one of the following group: glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and sorbitol;

the excipient used can control the viscosity of the keratolytic composition to be between 1000 and 20000 mPa.s.

The inventors of the present invention have found through experiments that mandelic acid is relatively mild compared to other various fruit acids, and thus in the exfoliating composition of the present invention, the keratolytic substance used is a combination of mandelic acid and sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine. The combination is mild, effective and strong in pertinence, wherein mandelic acid is also called mandelic acid, is the only benzene ring type lipophilic tartaric acid at present, has highest affinity with skin, is mild and is not irritant. Mandelic acid is widely used in organic synthesis and pharmaceutical industry due to its specific bactericidal ability, and its whitening and acne-removing effects are generally applied in the aspect of beauty. The mandelic acid has been found to interfere with the intercellular junctions of the stratum corneum, to help remove aged cells that accumulate in the outer layer, to have a exfoliating effect at reasonable acidity and to be much more mild than traditional fruit acids. According to the invention, mandelic acid is matched with strong alkali sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine, so that the pH value of the product can be improved, and the separation and dissolution of cutin can be promoted, so that the composition is a better cutin separation composition.

Preferably, in the exfoliating composition of the present invention, the keratolytic composition comprises 4 to 9% mandelic acid and 0.2 to 2% sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine.

As one embodiment of the present invention, the pH of the exfoliating composition of the present invention can be controlled to be between 3.5 and 4.5. According to the investigation of the applicant on the commercial products, the pH of the effective products can only be below 3.5, and rarely reaches 3.5-4.0, while the pH of the product of the invention can be above 4.0, and under the condition of relatively high pH, the product still keeps effectiveness and has the effect only once use. Due to the relatively high pH of the product of the invention, the user's acid-irritating sensation can be significantly reduced.

Preferably, in the exfoliating composition of the present invention, the solvent used is at least one of the following group: ethanol and isopropanol. Mandelic acid is dissolved in hot water, ethanol and isopropanol, but has low solubility in normal temperature water; the ethanol and/or isopropanol are/is used as the solvent of the mandelic acid, so that the solubility of the mandelic acid can be increased and the content of the mandelic acid can be higher. Ethanol and isopropanol are penetration enhancers, which have the effect of drying the skin, dissolving phospholipids. The inventor of the invention finds that besides the above functions, the ethanol and the isopropanol also interact with the mandelic acid, so that the pH value of the product can be improved, and meanwhile, the arrangement of the mandelic acid and the ethanol or the isopropanol enables cutin to be more easily peeled off.

In the exfoliating composition of the present invention, the soothing agent used is preferably at least one of the following group: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, bioglycan-1 and citrus fruit extract to alleviate irritation associated with solvents and keratolytic products. Wherein, the adopted dipotassium glycyrrhizinate has the efficacies of bacteriostasis, inflammation diminishing, allergy resistance and the like because of containing the liquorice component; the adopted biological carbohydrate gum-1 is a multifunctional active substance, is an excipient and is an active substance, can endow the skin with double effects, can form a film on the surface of the skin on the aspect of physical action, and brings a moisturizing effect to the skin; the citrus fruit extract is preferably an extract of green tangerine peel, and more preferably, the green tangerine peel selected is immature fruit obtained by picking citrus in 5-6 months, and the green tangerine peel is a raw material with higher activity; and the ratio of flavone and alkaloid in the green tangerine peel is about 1: 1, can inhibit the expression, activation and effect of keratinocyte TRPV1 and inhibit the activation of nerve cell TRPV1, and has instant relieving effect and lactic acid tolerance relieving effect in a lactic acid test.

Preferably, in the exfoliating composition of the present invention, the polyol used is a combination of butanediol and 1, 2-hexanediol. The use of the polyhydric alcohol not only greatly reduces the dry feeling of the skin but also effectively disperses the used excipient.

In the exfoliating composition of the present invention, the excipient used is preferably sphingosine. Sphingosine bacteria gum (INCI: sphingomonas fermentation product extract) is polysaccharide from microbial fermentation, has non-astringent and non-sticky silky skin feeling, has a structure similar to xanthan gum, is a double-helix secondary structure, is more resistant to shearing, high temperature and acid-base, and has the effect of moisturizing. The invention applies the extract from fermentation to the cosmetics under harsh conditions, which not only endows the product with viscosity form, but also can increase the stability of the product and provide the efficacy of moisturizing. The inventor finds that in a high-acid, high-alcohol and low-pH peeling keratin system, the skin feel is good, the viscosity is high, the structure is stable, and the difficulty is high. The inventors have found through experiments that under such harsh conditions, if the carbomer series is chosen, it is not suitable for such harsh systems; if xanthan gum is selected, the xanthan gum becomes thicker and thicker along with the increase of time and temperature, and even the phenomenon of water-gel separation can occur; if hydroxyethyl cellulose is selected, there is a tendency for the viscosity to decrease with temperature and time; if non-ionic or cationic polymers such as poloxamer and the like are selected, the non-ionic or cationic polymers are not natural, the preparation process is complex, the modern environmental protection concept is not met, and in the combination of mandelic acid and sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine, the phenomenon of crystallization in the system is easy to be caused; the sphingosine zoogloea can just ease the phenomenon, and a stable structure is provided. The sphingosine bacteria glue is applied in the system, and the viscosity and the pH value of the sphingosine bacteria glue are stable through the test of accelerated stability of 45 ℃, minus 15 ℃, 5 ℃ and normal temperature for half a year; the sphingosine bacteria gum is used as a carrier, and besides a stable structure, the sphingosine bacteria gum has unique smooth and non-sticky skin feel, is layered unique smooth feel which cannot be achieved by other thickeners such as poloxamer and carbomer, and can provide better skin feel and embodiment for products. The present invention also found that sphingosine gum as an excipient, in addition to providing a stable structure, can impart moisturizing effect to the product, neutralizing solvent and dry and astringent feeling brought by mandelic acid, and thus it has both the function of an excipient and is an effective ingredient.

In the exfoliating composition of the present invention, sphingosine gum is used as an excipient to impart different viscosity profiles to the product. The application of the sphingosine bacteria gel can make experiences with different viscosities, the viscosity can be liquid or gel between 1000-.

In the exfoliating composition of the present invention, other functional ingredients may also be added, but the addition of these additional functional ingredients is provided without affecting the performance of the entire exfoliating system.

In another aspect, to achieve the above object of the present invention, the present invention also provides a keratolytic product for removing dead skin tissue, comprising a film cover and the keratolytic composition as described above, wherein the film cover comprises an absorbent inner layer and a barrier outer layer, and the absorbent inner layer is capable of absorbing the keratolytic composition.

For the keratin release product, in addition to the essence, a film cover is important to obtain a good effect.

Because of the constitution and living habits of human body, the parts with the thickest cutin in human body are the heel, the knee, the elbow and the finger joint, especially the heel part is the most serious part contacted and rubbed with the ground. Although all-foot wrapped exfoliating products are available in the market, other products are rare or even invisible, the pertinence is not strong, the safety needs to be considered, and products which are not directed to local parts can exfoliate the cutin, keep good skin appearance and do not damage unnecessary parts.

In the exfoliating product of the present invention, the film cover used is preferably a partial cover film for a partial site. Since the keratin-exfoliating compositions of such commercial exfoliating products are relatively dilute, if a topical film is used, it will flow to areas where exfoliation is not necessary, causing unnecessary damage. Therefore, in the invention, the cutin stripping product aiming at local parts is realized by matching the thicker cutin stripping composition with the local film sleeve.

In the exfoliating product of the present invention, the topical film applied is preferably a heel film, an elbow film, a knee film, or a finger film.

Preferably, in the exfoliating product of the present invention, the topical film applied comprises a net-like absorbent inner layer made of PE material capable of absorbing the exfoliating composition and a soft barrier outer layer made of PE material.

According to the invention, the PE material is made into a reticular adsorption inner layer capable of adsorbing essence by utilizing the acid resistance, alcohol resistance and alkali resistance of the PE material, and also made into a soft outer layer with good sealing property to isolate the cutin stripping composition from flowing outside. The same material inside and outside, but different effect, internal absorption and external separation.

The cutin stripping product provided by the invention can achieve the effects of mildly stripping cutin, removing dead skin and calluses, wherein mandelic acid is relatively mild, the content of mandelic acid in the product can be increased by solvent ethanol and isopropanol, the combination of the two can ensure that the product has better stripping effect, the soothing agent can relieve discomfort and enhance the mildness, and the structure matched with sphingosine bacteria adhesive as a carrier can improve the stability of the product and enhance the moisturizing effect, provides higher viscosity, is matched with the form of local covering film, only aims at necessary parts but not other parts, has strong pertinence, and endows the product with good skin feel and shape.

The exfoliating composition of the present invention also has the following advantages:

(1) the pH value of the product is relatively high, and the stripping effect is obvious;

(2) the product has various forms and stable structure. The product adopts sphingosine bacteria gel as an excipient, can endow the product with different viscosity forms, can promote the permeation of essence and a mantle carrier, and can enable a system to reach a stable structure;

(3) the product is mild, the use mode is various, and the pertinence is strong. The product can be freely and pertinently designed according to the wanted part, thereby effectively removing dead skin and cutin aiming at the target part and avoiding the cutin of the unnecessary part from being removed or damaged.

The present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments, which are illustrative of certain specific embodiments of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the invention. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made without departing from the principles of the invention, and it is also considered to be within the scope of the invention.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the results of the detection of red blood filaments based on image capture (VISIA-CR) in examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4;

FIG. 2 shows the results of stratum corneum moisture content measurements of examples 1 and 3 and comparative examples 1-4;

FIG. 3 shows the results of the transdermal water loss measurements of examples 1 and 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4;

FIG. 4 is a comparison of human exfoliating effectiveness test of example 1 and comparative examples 2 and 3;

FIG. 5 is a chart showing the onset time of human trial of example 1 and comparative examples 2 and 3

Detailed Description

Some of the starting material sources used in the following experiments were as follows:

preparation examples 1 to 3

The exfoliating compositions of the present invention were formulated according to the formulations in table 1; then, the prepared cutin stripping composition is absorbed in a net-shaped absorption inner layer made of PE materials of a partial heel covering film or a full-foot covering film, and a cutin stripping product is prepared. Please note that the partial heel covering or the full foot covering further includes a soft, isolating outer layer made of PE.

TABLE 1

Example 4

Essentially the same as in example 2, except that: the concentration of butanediol was 1.7%, the concentration of sphingosine could be 0.50%, and 0.55% sodium hydroxide was replaced by 0.70% potassium hydroxide.

Example 5

Essentially the same as in example 3, except that: the concentration of 1, 2-hexanediol was 2%, the concentration of sphingosine could be 0.80%, and 2.0% triethanolamine was used instead of 0.40% sodium hydroxide.

Comparative example 1

Essentially the same as in example 1, except that: the sphingosine bacteria gum is not used as excipient.

Comparative example 2

Essentially the same as in example 1, except that: glycolic acid was used instead of mandelic acid and the concentration of sodium hydroxide was changed from 0.55% to 0.75%.

Comparative example 3

Essentially the same as in example 1, except that: the 3% lactic acid + 0.2% salicylic acid + 1% glycolic acid was used instead of 4% mandelic acid and the concentration of sodium hydroxide was changed from 0.55% to 0.60%.

Comparative example 4

Essentially the same as in example 1, except that: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate was not added.

Test experiments

It was found that the exfoliating effect of examples 1-5 was comparable without relatively large differences.

The stability tests of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were carried out, and the stability of example 1 and comparative examples 2 to 4 was passed, the viscosity and pH were in stable ranges, the appearance odor was not abnormal, and only comparative example 1 exhibited crystallization, thus indicating that sphingosine could promote the stability of the product.

FIG. 1 shows the comparison of red blood filaments by image capture (VISIA-CR) after human trials in examples 1,2 and comparative examples 1-4; FIGS. 2 and 3 show the measurement of stratum corneum moisture content (Corneometer CM825) and the measurement of transepidermal water loss (Tewameter TM 300) after human trials in examples 1 and 3 and comparative examples 1-4, respectively.

1. Before the product is tried, the condition of red blood silk in a trial area is shot before VISIA, the product is tried for 30 minutes, the absorption time is 20 minutes, the absorption is finished, and the product is shot under VISIA to compare the condition of the red blood silk:

as can be seen by comparing example 1, example 2, comparative example 1 and comparative example 4, the soothing agent has a soothing effect on the combination, which reduces the formation of red blood streaks.

2. Before the product is tried, the moisture content and the transdermal moisture loss of the human stratum corneum are tested firstly, then the product is used for 30 minutes, and after the product is absorbed in 30 minutes, the moisture content and the transdermal moisture loss of the stratum corneum are tested by an instrument probe:

as can be seen from FIGS. 2 and 3, the moisture contents of example 1 and comparative examples 2 to 4, to which sphingosine was added as an excipient, are not greatly different from each other, while the moisture content of comparative example 1, to which no sphingosine was added, is relatively low, indicating that sphingosine has a moisturizing effect on the stratum corneum; the higher water content of example 3 containing biosaccharide gum-1 indicates that it has more moisturizing effect. The difference between the transdermal water loss amount before and after use was as shown in example 3 and comparative example 4, and the transdermal water loss amount was slightly improved in example 1 and comparative example 1, whereas the transdermal water loss amount was increased in comparative example 4, and the improvement was not evident in any of the other comparative examples. The combination of the soothing agent and the mandelic acid is relatively friendly to the water loss amount and can improve the skin barrier, and the water loss amount is relatively high by using other acids or not adding dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.

Peel test

The human body trial test is carried out on the example 1, the comparative example 2 and the comparative example 3, 3 products pass 2 groups of comparison tests (15 persons in each group), 2 feet on the left and the right of the group A respectively try the example 1 and the comparative example 2, 2 feet on the left and the right of the group B respectively try the example 1 and the comparative example 3, the onset time (the time from the trial of the products to the falling off of the foot skin) is recorded and the using part is photographed after the trial of the products, and the test results are summarized in figures 4 and 5:

statistically, the exfoliating effect of example 1 is better than that of comparative examples 2 and 3, and fig. 4 is a partial subject image example. Example 1 was a full piece of the foot skin, while comparative examples 2 and 3 were small and different in size; the time taken for the keratin of the feet of the 2 groups of test subjects to begin to peel off is summarized in FIG. 5, and it can be seen that the onset time of exfoliation is shorter in example 1 than in comparative examples 2 and 3,

therefore, the cutin stripping effect of mandelic acid is better than that of glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid.

According to the using characteristics and the method of the product, a tested sample is directly used by a tested subject, the skin reaction of the tested subject is observed or followed by a telephone after the tested subject is used, the adverse skin reaction condition of the human trial test is recorded, and the result is shown in table 2. The human body test result of the embodiment 1 of matching the local heel foot membrane with the complete set of foot membrane by comparison shows that the condition that an individual test person turns red and itches at fragile skin positions such as instep can appear in the trial of the complete set of foot membrane, but the problem can not appear by using the cover membrane of a local heel department, and the essence at the local heel part is more concentrated and the cutin stripping effect is better.

TABLE 2

Claims

1. A cutin peeling composition for cutin layer tissue comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

solvent: 10 to 30 percent

Polyol: 1-10%

Keratinous isolate: 4 to 10 percent of

A soothing agent: 0.5 to 2 percent

Excipient: 0.1 to 1 percent

And the balance: water (W)

Wherein the keratolytic substance is a compound of mandelic acid and sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine;

the solvent is lower alcohol which can increase the solubility of mandelic acid;

the polyols used disperse the excipients and bring about a moisturizing effect;

the soothing agent can relieve the irritation caused by the solvent and the keratin isolate;

the polyol is at least one of the following substances: glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and sorbitol;

the excipient can control the viscosity of the keratolytic composition to be between 1000 and 20000 mPa.s.

2. The exfoliating composition of claim 1 wherein the pH of said exfoliating composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.

3. The exfoliating composition of claim 1 wherein the solvent is at least one member of the group consisting of: ethanol and isopropanol.

4. The exfoliating composition of claim 1 wherein the soothing agent is at least one member of the group consisting of: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, biological carbohydrate gum-1 and citrus fruit extract.

5. The exfoliating composition of claim 1, wherein the excipient is sphingosine.

6. The exfoliating composition of claim 4 wherein the keratolytic composition comprises 4-9% mandelic acid and 0.2-2% sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or triethanolamine.

7. A keratolytic product for removing dead skin tissue, comprising a film cover and the keratolytic composition of any of claims 1-6, wherein said film cover comprises an absorbent inner layer and a barrier outer layer, said absorbent inner layer being capable of absorbing said keratolytic composition.

8. The exfoliating product of claim 7 wherein the film cover is a topical cover for a topical application.

9. The exfoliating product of claim 8 wherein the topical mask is a heel mask, an elbow mask, a knee mask, or a finger mask.

10. The exfoliating product of claim 8 wherein said topical film comprises a net absorbent inner layer of PE material adapted to absorb said exfoliating composition and a soft release outer layer of PE material.