CN102871863A - Whitening and water replenishing complex - Google Patents
Whitening and water replenishing complex Download PDFInfo
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- CN102871863A CN102871863A CN2012104090578A CN201210409057A CN102871863A CN 102871863 A CN102871863 A CN 102871863A CN 2012104090578 A CN2012104090578 A CN 2012104090578A CN 201210409057 A CN201210409057 A CN 201210409057A CN 102871863 A CN102871863 A CN 102871863A
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly discloses a whitening and water replenishing complex. The complex comprises from 0.05 to 0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, from 0.3 to 0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, from 0.5 to 1% of phenethyl resorcinol, from 1 to 5% of niacinamide, from 55 to 60% of tripropylene glycol, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol, from 0.02 to 0.05% of glycolic acid, from 0.05 to 0.1% of sodium bisulfite and from 32.75 to 41.58% of deionized water. The whitening and water replenishing complex is directly added into a whitening and water replenishing moisturizing product at the temperature lower than 50 DEG C and is uniformly stirred. The whitening and water replenishing complex realizes a whitening effect, and can suppress melanin secretion of melanocyte simulating cells of the surface of the skin of a user, so that the skin of the user is whitened. Besides, the whitening and water replenishing complex realizes an anti-wrinkle effect, can promote collagen and elastin secretion of fibroblasts and realizes effects of preventing ageing of the skin of the user and improving elasticity of the skin of the user.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, be specially a kind of whitening and moisturizing complex.
Background technology
Because the variation at age, variation and the poor environment Long Term Contact of physical function, particularly contact UVA, UVB and IR irradiation, change has occured at 26S Proteasome Structure and Function in skin, comprises that flexibility missing, wrinkle formation, water-holding capacity disappearance, sagging and microcirculation disturbance, mottle form.Especially the contact skin ultraviolet enlivens synthesis of melanin in the dermal melanin cell, and is discharged into epidermis.Melanin in the melanocyte is synthetic to be mediated by cheese ammonia enzyme.Specifically, cell tyrosine is the DOPA quinone by the enzymatic conversion of cheese ammonia, produces melanin from it by spontaneous enzyme reaction.Therefore, melanic generation can react to resist by some of blocking-up black attainment route of synthesis, and the typical case that this concept has been resisted skin darkening accepts extensively.As everyone knows, acne, abscess, the various dermatosis puzzlement of folliculitis youngster, existing also have a lot of efficacy cosmetic products for solving this type of skin problem.But finally descend pox seal, cicatrix, so also do not reached desirable therapeutic effect fully, because the effective component in the life-time service curative effect product has caused thinning of skin, sensitize, a series of skin problems such as pigmentation.
The Effect raw material that adds of skin-lightening cosmetic mainly includes one or more in the raw materials such as arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, mercury compound, fruit acid, retinoic acid, hormone, VC derivant, cell growth factor, glabridin, Azelaic Acid in the market, the skin-lightening cosmetic that contains above-mentioned raw materials, what have has also caused certain side effect to skin when producing white-skinned face function, have then be after having added the Effect raw material that safety has no side effect its effect time shorter, can't long preservation.Have the photosensitivity of height such as arbutin, need in product, to add a large amount of sunscreen, cause skin aging from face; Hydroquinone easily causes the rubescent or systemic side effects of local skin, easily causes skin carcinoma; Kojic acid and derivant thereof are that restraint of tyrosinase is active, but because itself is unstable, easy to change, need to add a large amount of antioxidant and UV absorbent in formula system; Vitamin C and derivant energy vat black pigment thereof and check melanin are synthetic, but DeGrain, itself is unstable, and use is restricted; Mercury compound has toxicity, and is huge to human body skin harm; Fruit acid is that soften cuticle and acceleration cutin pull-up fall to accelerating the composition that melanin excretes, without direct whitening function, and the whitening that can indirectly cooperate, but large to skin irritation; Retinoic acid is larger on anemia of pregnant woman's impact; Hormone easily causes thinning of skin, osteoporosis, easily bounce-back; When cell growth factor is added on cream, emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen cream, facial film, cosmetic water, eye cream, massage cream, hand cream or other and is used for the cosmetics of face, cervical region, hand and health, its active shelf-life is shorter, also difficulty obtains positive effect, and irritated rate is also high; The glabridin effect is poor, extremely expensive concentrate, and cost performance is not high; Azelaic Acid can reduce the generation of tryrosinase or synthetic, suppresses TRP-1,2 synthetic, but poorly soluble, compatibility is poor, zest is large.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is just for above technical problem, provide and to improve the pathological changes that applies some make up and cause because of age, long-term Exposure to Sunlight, because of the family of improper use, reach the skin appearance, the function that change because of factors such as smoking and malnutrition, have a kind of whitening and moisturizing complex of good synergy.
Technical scheme of the present invention is:
A kind of whitening and moisturizing complex, made by following composition, in the quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.05-0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.3-0.5%, Symwhite-337 0.5-1%, nicotiamide 1-5%, 1.3 propylene glycol 55-60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.02-0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.05-0.1%, deionized water 32.75-41.58%, each composition percentage composition sum is 100%.
The whitening and moisturizing complex consists of the following composition in the quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.5%, Symwhite-337 1%, nicotiamide 5%, 1.3 propylene glycol 60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.1%, deionized water 32.75%.
The whitening and moisturizing complex is used for the face of leave and the whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products at other position of health, and adding proportion is the 1-5% of whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products gross mass percentage composition.
The whitening and moisturizing complex is added directly in the whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products and stirs in the environment below 50 ℃.
Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid, HA) is the multiply-connected mucopolysaccharide that consists of that connects of a kind of disaccharidase unit weight by glucuronic acid and NAG, extensively is present in the pod membrane of matter and some antibacterial between the histiocyte of animal.It has HA extensively and unique using value in ceremonies such as medicine, cosmetics, food.Especially at cosmetic field, HA is widely used aspect skin care item with moisturizing activity and the film property of its impayable skinfeel, uniqueness.
In cosmetics, the HA consumption will produce molecular folding 0.1% when above, forms continuous three-dimensional network, produces various physiological effecies, so 0.1% is effective working concentration of HA.
Hyaluronic acid is uniquely in the naturally occurring mucopolysaccharide not have a Sulfated polysaccharide, and hydrophilic is strong, is unbranched linear molecule, is the naturally occurring component substances of skin, with histiocyte high affinity is arranged.Can promote fibroblasts to secrete collagen protein and elastin laminin, thereby the effect of the skin aging of preventing and increase skin elasticity is arranged.At present the theory of Transdermal absorption is to be based upon spherical molecule in theory, compares with hyaluronic acid, and the molecular shape that this theory adopts and organize affinity to have larger difference is not suitable for hyaluronic Transdermal absorption.
The unique hydrophilic character of HA and excellent histocompatibility, LMW HA is applied in cosmetic field, but the ectogenic HA of effective supply increases skin HA concentration to skin corium, and the content of raising deep skin moisture content, help to keep the desirable water content of skin, effectively improve gentle appropriateness and the elasticity of skin, can promote blood microcirculation, the regulation of skin metabolism, improve skin-nourishing, play anti-wrinkle cosmetic, prevent that skin aging from working in coordination with skin-whitening.
The molecular formula of glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium: C
42H
60K
2O
16, molecular weight 899.13.White fine powder, the tool sweet taste, water-soluble good, mouthfeel is pure.Glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium has the effects such as antiinflammatory, antiallergic, moisturizing.Glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium can be used for anti-freckle agent at cosmetic industry, anti-allergic agent.Stop the release of histamine, have detoxifcation, sterilization, anti-allergic effects, the effect of similar adrenal gland's sebum hormone, but life-time service also has no side effect.The several functions such as antibacterial, antiinflammatory, detoxifcation, antiallergic, deodorization are arranged.Be used for antiallergic, sun-proof, spot-removing ointment is white, emulsion etc., consumption 0.1%~0.5%.
Nicotiamide claims again vitamin B3, Niacinamide, and its molecular formula is C
6H
6N
2O is white crystals or crystalline powder, odorless or have little smelly, little acid of distinguishing the flavor of; Aqueous solution shows acid reaction.
Nicotiamide is the skin anti-aging composition that cosmetic field is generally acknowledged, its most important effect aspect skin anti-aging is to improve microcirculation, can make Marjoram Extract and blood capillary open, be conducive to local organization, cellular material exchange, keep the normal function of blood vessel in the body, colour of skin dimness, jaundice, the famished look that can alleviate and prevent skin to produce in the aging course in early days.Nicotiamide also can be repaired impaired Stratum corneum lipids barrier, improves skin resistance.Also have deep layer lock water effect, so, the skin care item of nicotiamide contained to extremely strong lock water, moisture-keeping efficacy are arranged.Certainly, these effects of nicotiamide all depend on enough concentration, and large-scale medicine clinical research proves: only have the concentration more than 5% just to have above-mentioned effect.With age, the skin dim Huang that becomes is unglazed, and the external nicotiamide can improve this dim Huang.Random research shows 2 uses every day nicotiamide stock solution, the 8th week plays a skin texture and significantly improves, and microgroove and wrinkle obviously reduce; The high resilience that becomes of the 12nd all skin, pigmentation and erythema significantly reduce, and dim Huang obviously alleviates, and skin seems to be rich in gloss.Old and feeble skin NADH and the content of NADPH are day by day decayed, and both are controlling overall process synthetic in the cell and that decompose.Nicotiamide can play a role by the balance of regulating level in both bodies as the precursor of NADH and NADPH.High-caliber NADPH brings into play powerful antioxidation, stops protein and sugar that spontaneous glycosylation occurs.The glycated protein that glycosylation produces is deposited on corium and presents yellowish-brown.Saccharifying product between 80 years old dermis of skin collagen is 5 times of 20 years old skin.Glycated protein presents in the dim yellow performance at old and feeble skin and plays an important role, and nicotiamide improves NADPH bringing into play anti-glycosylation, and then reduces the jaundice of old and feeble skin, alleviates facial famished look, improves skin quality.It is one of skin quality problem that pore increases.The external nicotiamide can reduce the generation of fatty acid and triglyceride in the sebum, thereby receives the fine, soft fur hole and reduce acne the order of severity when occuring.Ceramide is the important composition of skin barrier.Ceramide content significantly reduces in the horny layer of atopic dermatitis, old people's skin and winter dryness skin.Ceramide content strengthens skin barrier function to nicotiamide in the horny layer by increasing, and reduces percutaneous moisture content and runs off.
1,3-PD, its chemical formula are CH
2OHCH
2CH
2OH; 1; ammediol is as the dihydroxylic alcohols of emollient and wetting agent; in personal-care supplies, play important potentiation; it will be widely used in the articles for use such as skin detergents, skin cleansing cream, perfume, deodorant and cosmetics as carrier solvent; can promote skin metabolism, have that the xerosis cutis of preventing is coarse, an effect of delay skin aging, protection skin.
Symwhite-337 is the natural active matter that comes from green plants, collection " green plants; safe and reliable " and " efficient decolorizing " three close the humorous skin depigmentation component that is unified in one, it can infiltrate rapidly skin, when not affecting cell proliferation concentration, the activity that can effectively suppress the tryrosinase in the skin, block melanic formation, by self and the direct combination of cheese ammonia enzyme, accelerate melanic decomposition and drainage, thereby minimizing Skin pigmentation, dispelling stain and freckle, and melanocyte do not produced toxic, zest, the side effect such as sensitization also have sterilization simultaneously, the effect of antiinflammatory.It is current popular the most safely and effectively whitening raw material, also is the desirable skin-whitening and speckle eliminating activating agent of 21st century.
Whitening and moisturizing complex preparation method of the present invention may further comprise the steps:
(1) deionized water is heated to 95 degrees centigrade, insulated sterilizing half an hour,, it is for subsequent use to be chilled to room temperature;
(2) in proportion Symwhite-337 being dissolved in 1.3 propylene glycol adds phenoxyethanol again and stirs evenly for subsequent use;
(3) nicotiamide, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, sodium sulfite, glycolic acid, hyaluronate sodium are added successively the sterilization deionized water for stirring and be dissolved to dissolve complete;
(4) two kinds of materials in step (2) and the step (3) are mixed the filtration discharging that stirs.
The raw material that uses among the present invention, instrument, equipment, and aid all be commercially available.
Compared with prior art, beneficial effect is:
(1) has whitening function, can suppress the short black emiocytosis melanin of skin surface, reach the effect of skin whitening with this;
(2) have crease-resistant effect, can promote fibroblasts to secrete collagen protein and elastin laminin, thereby the effect of the skin aging of preventing and increase skin elasticity is arranged;
(3) have moisturizing effects, but the ectogenic hyaluronic acid of effective supply increases the skin hyaluronic acid concentration to skin corium, and improve the content of deep skin moisture content, help to keep the desirable water content of skin, effectively improve gentle appropriateness and the elasticity of skin;
(4) have the antiallergic effect, can stop the release of histamine, have detoxifcation, sterilization, anti-allergic effects and can improve skin immunization power;
(5) has repair: improve microcirculation, can make Marjoram Extract and blood capillary open, be conducive to local organization, cellular material exchange, keep the normal function of blood vessel in the body.Can carry out daily reparation to problem skins such as skin yellowing, tarnish, skin sore, damaging skin be had the effect of quick reparation.
(6) glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium that will have bioactive hyaluronic acid, has an antiallergic antiinflammatory effectively engages with the cosmetic industry raw material, and collaborative have good whitening and moisturizing effects to skin, and without any negative interaction, safety improves greatly to skin.
The specific embodiment
The present invention is described in further detail below in conjunction with the specific embodiment.
But this should be interpreted as that the scope of the above-mentioned theme of the present invention only limits to following embodiment.
Embodiment 1:
A kind of whitening and moisturizing complex, be that 0.05% hyaluronate sodium, 0.3% glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, 0.5% Symwhite-337,1% nicotiamide, 55% 1,3 propylene glycol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 0.05% glycolic acid, 0.1% sodium sulfite and quality percentage composition are that 42.5% deionized water is made by the quality percentage composition.
The preparation method of this whitening and moisturizing complex is:
(1), in proportion take deionized water, then deionized water is heated to 95 degrees centigrade, then carry out insulated sterilizing half an hour, it is for subsequent use to be chilled to room temperature;
(2), in proportion Symwhite-337 is dissolved in 1,3 propylene glycol, add again stir behind the phenoxyethanol for subsequent use;
(3), take by weighing in proportion below nicotiamide, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, sodium sulfite, glycolic acid, hyaluronate sodium are added successively the sterilization deionized water for stirring be dissolved to dissolve complete;
(4), above-mentioned steps (2) and step (3) are mixed the filtration discharging that stirs.
Embodiment 2:
The whitening and moisturizing complex, be that 0.1% hyaluronate sodium, 0.5% glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, 1% Symwhite-337,5% nicotiamide, 60% 1,3 propylene glycol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 0.05% glycolic acid, 0.1% sodium sulfite and quality percentage composition are that 32.75% deionized water is made by the quality percentage composition.
Consistent among its preparation method and the embodiment 1.
Embodiment 3:
The whitening and moisturizing complex, be that 0.08% hyaluronate sodium, 0.4% glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, 0.6% Symwhite-337,3% nicotiamide, 58% 1.3 propylene glycol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 0.04% glycolic acid, 0.08% sodium sulfite and quality percentage composition are that 37.3% deionized water is made by the quality percentage composition, consistent among its preparation method and the embodiment 1.
The whitening and moisturizing complex of above-mentioned 3 embodiment is added in the basic mastic by 3%, each 30 has carried out efficacy experiment to every patient, obtain the result such as following table: the data from table can be found out, the whitening and speckle dispelling effective percentage reaches more than 90%, crease-resistant moisturizing effective percentage reaches more than 86, and the skin repair rate reaches more than 76%.Therefore the present invention is a kind of whitening complex with whitening, crease-resistant moisturizing, repair function, and patient of the present invention uses rear without bad side effect.
In sum, use that to contain the quality percentage composition be 5% whitening and moisturizing complex 2 times every day, used continuously 28 days, can obviously improve the color of skin, can reduce melanic content.Melanic generation has inhibitory action to the whitening and moisturizing complex to the B16 cell.
Claims (6)
1. whitening and moisturizing complex, it is characterized in that being made by following composition, in the quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.05-0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.3-0.5%, Symwhite-337 0.5-1%, nicotiamide 1-5%, 1.3 propylene glycol 55-60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.02-0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.05-0.1%, deionized water 32.75-41.58%, each composition percentage composition sum is 100%.
2. whitening and moisturizing complex according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: consist of the following composition in the quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.5%, Symwhite-337 1%, nicotiamide 5%, 1,3 propylene glycol 60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.1%, deionized water 32.75%.
3. according to claim 1 or the preparation method of whitening and moisturizing complex claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that may further comprise the steps:
(1), in proportion take deionized water, then deionized water is heated to 95 degree, insulated sterilizing half an hour,, it is for subsequent use to be chilled to room temperature;
(2), in proportion Symwhite-337 is dissolved in 1,3 propylene glycol, add again stir behind the phenoxyethanol for subsequent use;
(3), take by weighing in proportion below nicotiamide, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, sodium sulfite, glycolic acid, hyaluronate sodium are added successively the sterilization deionized water for stirring be dissolved to dissolve complete;
(4), above-mentioned steps (2) and step (3) are mixed the filtration discharging that stirs.
4. according to claim 1 or the application of whitening and moisturizing complex claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that: described whitening and moisturizing complex is used for the face of leave and the whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products at other position of health, and adding proportion is the 1-5% of whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products gross mass percentage composition.
5. the application of whitening and moisturizing complex according to claim 4 is characterized in that: described whitening and moisturizing complex<under 50 ℃ the environment, is being added directly in the whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products and is stirring.
6. the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing complex shown in according to claim 3, it is characterized in that: the temperature of described insulated sterilizing is 95 degrees centigrade.
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