CN102534938A - Wool spinning natural weft elastic tweed fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a wool spinning natural weft elastic tweed fabric which is woven by 100% wool or wool-terylene blended yarn. The main yarn of the fabric is stranded twisted yarn Z*S and/or stranded countertwisted yarn Z*Z yarn, the auxiliary yarn is four-stranded twisted yarn Z*S*S yarn, and the decorative yarn is 135 metric number stranded terylene yarn. The fabric has 12 warp-weft interweaving combination modes, the textile weave is one of 1/1 plain weave, rib weave and derivative weaves thereof, 2/1 twill and derivative weaves thereof, 2/2 twill and derivative weaves thereof, and 3/1 twill and derivative weaves thereof. The product has the advantages of unique design concept, proper texture and color, variable patterns, good real object quality and perfect service performance. The development of the product enriches the product design skills, widens the product design concept, is well received by consumers at home and abroad, and has obvious economic benefit.

Description

The spinning natural latitude of a kind of hair wool fabric of fluffing cotton

(1) technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of fabric of field of textiles, particularly relate to the spinning natural latitude of a kind of hair wool fabric of fluffing cotton.

(2) background technology

Along with the raising of science and technology development and people's living standard, people are superior, personalized to the increasing demand of garment material.And at present, the fabric style on the market is lacking individuality characteristics generally, can't satisfy this demand trend of people.Design colored type, color is various, the lining that the dress ornament effect is unique adapts to the demand in market, home and abroad, is to be badly in need of the problem that solves in the industry.

(3) summary of the invention

The present invention is in view of above-mentioned purpose, and the spinning natural latitude of a kind of hair wool fabric of fluffing cotton is provided.

Technical scheme of the present invention is to realize like this.

The spinning natural latitude of the hair wool fabric of fluffing cotton of this programme adopts the blended yarn of 100% wool or wool and terylene to weave.

The main body yarn of this lining is the positive twist yarn Z*S of plying and/or 100% wool of plying reverse lay yarn Z*Z or the blended yarn of wool and terylene; Auxiliary yarn is 100% wool of the positive twist yarn Z*S*S of four plying or the blended yarn of wool and terylene, and decorative thread is 135 public plying spun polyester threads;

This lining is one of following 12 kinds through, the weft yarn compound mode that interweaves:

(1), warp thread (Z*S) interweaves with weft yarn (Z*S);

(2), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*S*S), arrange on request with weft yarn (Z*S) and (Z*S*S) arrange on request and interweave;

(3), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges on request with weft yarn (Z*S) (Z*S*S) to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(4), warp thread (Z*Z) and weft yarn (Z*Z), interweave;

(5), warp thread (Z*Z), (Z*S*S), arrange on request and weft yarn (Z*Z), (Z*S*S), arrange on request and interweave;

(6), warp thread (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(7), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), arrange on request and weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), arrange on request and interweave;

(8), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) arrange on request with weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) and arrange on request and interweave;

(9), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(10), warp thread (Z*S) adds decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(11), warp thread (Z*Z) adds decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*Z) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(12), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z) add decorative thread, arranges on request with weft yarn (Z*S) (Z*Z) to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

After forming fabric, yarn demonstrates sth. made by twisting to, color, vitta, look lattice, the changeable colored type effect of color dot;

The fabric tissue of this lining is: any in 1/1 plain weave, heavily flat and alternative construction, 2/1 twill and alternative construction thereof, 2/2 twill and alternative construction thereof, 3/1 twill and the alternative construction thereof.

Usefulness of the present invention is: the design concept of this product is unique, the quality color is in good time, the variation of flower type is colourful, quality in kind is meticulous, serviceability is perfect.The product design skill has been enriched in the research and development of this product, has expanded the product design design, at home, outer market all receives consumer's consistent favorable comment, obtained remarkable economic efficiency.

(4) specific embodiment

Below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is described further.

One, product design

1, proportioning raw materials: selected 5 kinds of proportioning raw materials.

2, yam count, sth. made by twisting are to, number of share of stock specification: spinned 3 kinds of yam counts and 4 kinds of yarn specifications.

3, through, weft yarn interleaving scheme: the design layout identical interweave compound mode and multiple warp, the weft yarn compound mode that interweaves inequality of 12 kinds of warps, weft yarn.

4, fabric structure: used 14 kinds of fabric tissues.

5, spend type to arrange loop number: to design 245 colored types.

Two, product design main points

1, yarn raw material, ratio is selected:

Product design is in line with principle low-cost, environment-friendly type; It is outer wool top or state's wool top of 64 (fineness is 21.6～23 microns) that raw material is selected quality count for use; Fiber number is 2.5D (fineness is 15.9 microns) stoste or primary colors terylene bar, selectedly respectively produces by five kinds of proportioning raw materials such as wool 100%, wool 50% terylene 50%, wool 55% terylene 45%, wool 60% terylene 40%, wool 70% terylene 30%.Sneaking into of polyster fibre can make spinning property improve significantly.

2, yam count is selected:

(1), different proportion raw material; Through reasonably mixing and design radical, enough combing drawing-down road number, different stretching oneself and yawn the twisting requirement; Be spun into 60 public, 72 public, 80 public single thread respectively; Again through doubling, twist thread synthetic strand of yarn or four folded yarns, use yarn basically as the product different batches respectively.

(2), the flower type is worked the decorative thread of the effect of interspersing, selected 135 public Zhi Dilun colo(u)r streaks, the high bar of yarn count are done evenly, the powerful good broken end that is difficult for.

3, yarn specifications design design:

(1), under the prerequisite that does not add elastomer; Make full use of fiber twisting embrace with after stretch and the effect that contracts, exploitation, innovation are developed the spinning natural latitude of hair and are fluffed cotton and use yarn, except that the pure wool yarn; Wool and blend polyester resultant yarn; Spinnability to fine spining machine can improve significantly, but can bring certain influence to the effect of product nature bullet, this will the design of the yarn count twist with selected on remedy.

(2), once manufacture experimently incorgruous folded yarn before this and played product naturally; Through practice; Spin incorgruous folded yarn and can strengthen the difficulty of processes process; And quality problems and two kinds of measurement problems that yarn can not be used up simultaneously of wrong yarn appear mixing again in doubling easily, and incorgruous plying scheme is not prepared to adopt in this product design.

(3), think that through the tackling key problem discussion nature bullet product should be main with the latitude bullet mainly; Elastic force effect for outstanding finished product weft yams; This time the ratio of ply twist coefficient and single twist multiplier all is selected in more than the routine, about the reached twice that has, form fabric like this after the elastic force effect can be more abundant.

4, warp and weft interweaving conceptual design:

Arrange for adapting to multiple colored type; Spin plying positive twist yarn (Z*S) and plying reverse lay yarn (Z*Z) respectively and be the main body of fabric yarn; Spinned the four positive twist yarns of plying (Z*S*S) especially and be the auxiliary yarn of fabric, having selected 135 public plying Polyester Yarns especially for use is the decorative thread of fabric.

With the yarn of above four kinds of different sizes, design arranges through identical 12 kinds of the compound modes of interweaving of weft yarn, because too big through the weft yarn compound mode randomness that interweaves inequality, the form kind that can design layout is a lot, does not state here.

(1), warp thread (Z*S) interweaves with weft yarn (Z*S).

(2), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*S*S), arrange on request with weft yarn (Z*S) and (Z*S*S) arrange on request and interweave.

(3), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges on request with weft yarn (Z*S) (Z*S*S) to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave.

(4), warp thread (Z*Z) and weft yarn (Z*Z), interweave.

(5), warp thread (Z*Z), (Z*S*S), arrange on request and weft yarn (Z*Z), (Z*S*S), arrange on request and interweave.

(6), warp thread (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave.

(7), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), arrange on request and weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), arrange on request and interweave.

(8), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) arrange on request with weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) and arrange on request and interweave.

(9), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave.

(10), warp thread (Z*S) adds decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave.

(11), warp thread (Z*Z) adds decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*Z) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave.

(12), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z) add decorative thread, arranges on request with weft yarn (Z*S) (Z*Z) to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave.

No matter fabric interweaves in the compound mode; Used is identical or inequality through weft yarn; After forming fabric, yarn demonstrates sth. made by twisting to, color, vitta, look lattice, the changeable colored type effect of color dot, wherein: vitta can be coarse to fine, Se Ge can far can be near; Color dot is changeable, sets off marvellous colored type effect incisively and vividly.

5, yarn color is selected:

The color of plying that (1), various colored types circulate, various fabric tissue is used and four plying filling yarns; Be main with colors such as black, indigo plant, ash, coffees how, every kind of color derives the color of the different depths and different color light again, and quantity is various; Can not measure meter, approximately estimation can reach kind more than 100.

(2), the decorative thread color is many is main with countenance, light tone, gorgeous look.

6, fabric tissue is selected:

(1), in more than 200 that have gone into operation batches, used 14 kinds of fabric tissues.

(2), in selected fabric tissue; 1/1 plain weave, heavily flat and alternative construction, 2/1 twill and alternative construction thereof, 2/2 twill and alternative construction thereof, 3/1 twill and alternative construction thereof are arranged; And other multiple alternative construction, every kind of fabric tissue base area organizes situation to select corresponding limit tissue for use.

7, fabric construction design:

(1), the finished product total tightness degree washs the plumetis total tightness degree with reference to hair, grasp by about 80.

(2), be outstanding Weftwise stretch and feel; Selected the big twist when pooling capital except that yarn; Elite near 1 super large latitude through than (being the weft yarn tightness and the ratio of warp thread tightness), selected super large latitude through than purpose be the centre distance that strengthens between the warp thread, such fabric structure design; The optimum efficiency that not only helps grain cross elastic force has improved fabric feeling simultaneously again.This is the main key and the innovative point of fabric structure design, in the finished product quality in kind, has obtained manifesting fully.

8, density and shrinkage is selected

(1), after the filling yarn number is confirmed; Warp count and weft count, length contract and wide contract selected just becomes in the fabric specification design; The technology essential factor of most critical; Because the height of these design considerations, what, size variation can directly have influence on the variation of fabric construction, and the variation of fabric construction can directly have influence on quality in kind effects such as the face, feel, gloss of finished product.

(2), according to the requirement of trimmed size; With reference to the relevant process data of wool blend plumetis, length contract (through contracting), wide the contracting (looped weft) of reasonable selection fabric knitting and arrangement process are determined machine specification on the grey cloth through adjusting: be 182cm at the machine fabric width wherein; Effectively weaved width near loom; Belonging to the ultra wide scope of weaving, can bring immeasurable difficulty and problem to the loom running though the super large fabric width is weaved, is that certain otherwise effective technique guarantees to unfolding of Weftwise stretch and recovery.

(3), for guarantee the finished product latitude through than design object, elite to fix on machine warp count and weft count radical equal, penetrates with close reed double joint and weave; Warp thread and weft yarn are woven into behind the grey cloth rational in infrastructure by fabric tissue, through the rear portion arrangement of some operations, the finished product face is smooth; Feel is sliding glutinous; The final finished Weftwise stretch has reached about 12%, and the product Expected Results is remarkable, is the first-selection of current fashion women's dress.

9, color flower type effect design

(1), according to finished product face overall color, the flower type requirement; The product design personnel fully catch yarn raw material, number, sth. made by twisting to, number of share of stock, color design factor all inequality; Through repeatedly designing and screening, selected multiple new and original colored type and arranged circulation.

(2), the various colored types of design selected are arranged circulation time; The order that yarn is selected for use is: positive twist yarn is that three, decorative yarn are the position, end for the first, reverse lay yarn for time position, four strands of yarns; Utilize yarn radical what and shade contrast; Arrange colored type and arrange circulation, in more than 200 batches of having put into production, different colored types is arranged circulation and has been reached 245.

(3), process through the rear portion arrangement of multiple working procedure again behind the machine under the grey cloth; The finished product face demonstrates the color matching that vitta interval, the light and shade depth, floating-point replace and touches the line effect; Flower type color effects demonstrates elegance, uniqueness, solid, active vision behind the ready-made clothes; Also very also unreal, give people to wear the sensation of enjoying.

Three, the selection process flow process, crack production difficulty, research technological parameter, reasonable process condition:

What 1, slub dyeing was generally selected for use is environmental protection type dye, and the dyeing course strictness is undertaken by process conditions and dying operation rules, thoroughly after backwashing, removes clean loose colour, guarantees fastness, and the dyeing qualification rate is all more than 98%.

Requirement when 2, matching colors can will preferentially use with the black terylene of stoste.Join mao ratio at the high one grade hair of will use below 10%.The used hair number of colorant match is few more good more.

3, silver mixing mixes vast scale after requiring to mix small scale earlier, mixes three times before mixed five times of Mao Diqian, the pure wool, is no more than one in card nailing neps one gram of trying hard to keep after the recombing, returns comb when surpassing again.After quality index such as the wool top bar is dried are up to standard, just can pay spinning department.

4, spin combing, the drawing-down situation of each operation before the quality personnel note checking, guarantee little light of rove, circle, tight respond well.

5, spin each operation after and must choose the special train board, outstanding employee carries out not only good but also fast operation, spins out the excellent yarn that satisfies the weaving process requirement, weaves excellent cloth.

6, warping process is to guarantee the not amiss qualifying point of flower type arrangement; Carry out top cylinder, threading yarn color, twist with the fingers to the checking on of, number of share of stock, confirmation; Every reeled yarn line by root look into, every yarn is by looking into, axial plane is smooth, tension force will be always, intact yarn, do not have and touch the pillow.

7, requiring on the beam of a loom machine time will lack, go up the machine fault will lack, hand over car after the spinner want the scrutiny cloth cover, strengthen touringly, do not let slip any fault, on board, hundred meters scorings of grey cloth have reached below 210 minutes, group is below 1.5 the fault elimination.

8, the technological difficulties of most critical in the dressing of rear portion are exactly repeatedly the oven dry procedure under the wet condition, not only can not stents, but also the width of cloth that will contract, and oven dry chain road is parallel and advance, and the spinner will observe place, chain road at any time, in case off-clip.

The product design skill has been enriched in the exploitation and the production of four, fluffing cotton through the spinning natural latitude of hair, has expanded the product design design; This product stub Japan; Utilize the multiple blending rate of wool and terylene, the product of multiple colored type, multiple color, multiple dress ornament effect is weaved out in design, starts out the new way of wool spinning stockinette outlet; Because product quality is superior, clothing is comfortable, receive consumer's consistent favorable comment behind the outlet Japanese market.So far exported myriametre more than 70, the outlet rate has obtained certain economic benefits more than 98%.

The design concept of this product is unique, the quality color is in good time, the variation of flower type is colourful, quality in kind is meticulous, serviceability is perfect; Won the height praise of international market; Qualified through expert appraisal and quality supervision department's detection each item index, reach domestic, international most advanced level.

Claims (1)

1. the spinning natural latitude of hair wool fabric of fluffing cotton adopts the blended yarn of 100% wool or wool and terylene to weave, and it is characterized in that:

The main body yarn of this lining is the positive twist yarn Z*S of plying and/or 100% wool of plying reverse lay yarn Z*Z or the blended yarn of wool and terylene; Auxiliary yarn is 100% wool of the positive twist yarn Z*S*S of four plying or the blended yarn of wool and terylene, and decorative thread is 135 public plying spun polyester threads;

This lining is one of following 12 kinds through, the weft yarn compound mode that interweaves:

(1), warp thread (Z*S) interweaves with weft yarn (Z*S);

(2), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*S*S), arrange on request with weft yarn (Z*S) and (Z*S*S) arrange on request and interweave;

(3), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges on request with weft yarn (Z*S) (Z*S*S) to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(4), warp thread (Z*Z) and weft yarn (Z*Z), interweave;

(5), warp thread (Z*Z), (Z*S*S), arrange on request and weft yarn (Z*Z), (Z*S*S), arrange on request and interweave;

(6), warp thread (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(7), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), arrange on request and weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), arrange on request and interweave;

(8), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) arrange on request with weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) and arrange on request and interweave;

(9), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) add decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*S), (Z*Z), (Z*S*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(10), warp thread (Z*S) adds decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*S) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(11), warp thread (Z*Z) adds decorative thread, arranges with weft yarn (Z*Z) on request to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

(12), warp thread (Z*S), (Z*Z) add decorative thread, arranges on request with weft yarn (Z*S) (Z*Z) to add decorative thread, arrange on request to interweave;

After forming fabric, yarn demonstrates sth. made by twisting to, color, vitta, look lattice, the changeable colored type effect of color dot;

The fabric tissue of this lining is: any in 1/1 plain weave, heavily flat and alternative construction, 2/1 twill and alternative construction thereof, 2/2 twill and alternative construction thereof, 3/1 twill and the alternative construction thereof.