CN101046025A - High cover factor double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric and its weaving process - Google Patents
High cover factor double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric and its weaving process Download PDFInfo
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- CN101046025A CN101046025A CN200710068162.9A CN200710068162A CN101046025A CN 101046025 A CN101046025 A CN 101046025A CN 200710068162 A CN200710068162 A CN 200710068162A CN 101046025 A CN101046025 A CN 101046025A
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Abstract
The present invention is one kind of high tightness double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric and its weaving process, and belongs to the field of fabric technology. The high tightness double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric includes one surface layer, one inside layer and one connecting structure in between. The weaving process adopts high counts fiber material to reach high warp density in both the surface layer and the inside layer, converts the patterns of the fabric into various structural figures input into the jacquard machine, has the war yearns for both the surface layer and the inside layer through the same steel reed, and makes the electronic jacquard machine cooperate with dobby. The present invention has high fabric quality and high fabric grade.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to a kind of weaven goods and weaving method thereof, refer in particular to a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color fabric and weaving method thereof.
Background technology
Down products on the market is mainly clothes and bedding two big classes now, the quality of its quality, and the height of quality depends primarily on quality and its anti-suede performance of the content and the lining of suede.Even also accomplished frivolous softness but existing lining has met anti-suede requirement, but the plain fabric that adopts chemical fibre raw material to make mostly aspect material adds coating to be handled, in appearance except change color, almost do not have big jacquard weave look to knit the anti-high tightness lining of suede, so that the raising of the quality of down products and class be restricted.Small part down products lining also has the employing jacquard fabric, but often is filled with one deck DOWN PROOF fabric at down products lining liner, and the high tightness lining of anti-suede under this patent not only has the yarn-dyed jacquard fabric face but also has the characteristic of DOWN PROOF.
The requirement of the anti-high tightness lining of suede at first is the tightness of fabric, and the total tightness degree that generally requires fabric is more than 80%, and this feasible weaving of this product produced is brought very big technical difficulty.Next is the control to fabric Gram Mass amount, and is along with down products is required to improve day by day, more and more lower to the Gram Mass amount requirement of its lining at present, promptly requires lining frivolous.The final requirement of high tightness and low Gram Mass amount is to need to adopt high-count fine-denier yarn raw material to carry out weaving, has improved woven difficulty greatly, is difficult to reach under common fabric structure and weaving technology.Traditional anti-velvet fabric generally all adopts the coating aftertreatment technology, though this can improve anti-suede performance, all is disadvantageous to feel and fabric class.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is directed to deficiency of the prior art, propose a kind of fabric rational in infrastructure, can effectively realize the fabric of light weight, anti-suede effect, and its implementation is easy.
The present invention is achieved by following technical proposals:
A kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, it has comprised top layer, nexine, conjunctive tissue, it is characterized in that the top layer is the jacquard weave layer through close 55~110/CM, 60~100/CM of filling density, nexine is to be 1~5 points/CM through close 55~110/CM, the plain weave layer of 60~100/CM of filling density, link node
2
As preferably, in order to reach good effect, above-mentioned high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, described top layer are the jacquard weave layers of 60~90/CM, 65~80/CM of filling density, and nexine is to be 2~3 points/CM through close 60~90/CM, the plain weave layer of 60~80/CM of filling density, link node
2
As optimal selection, above-mentioned high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, described top layer is the jacquard weave layer of 80/CM, 65/CM of filling density, nexine is to be 2 points/CM through close 90/CM, the plain weave layer of 80/CM of filling density, link node
2
In order to realize the weaving method of above-mentioned a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, it is undertaken by following step:
(1) knitting technology specifications design: be to realize the high tightness of double-decker, low Gram Mass, must adopt high-count fine-denier fiber, high sley and high filling density process specification in the design, two-layer up and down warp thread always through close be 110~220/CM;
(2) raw material is prepared: adopt to meet 13/15
D~/27/29
DFine count fiber, and the height of 100S/2~210S/2 props up material;
(3) spend type grain pattern, tissue design: the structure of the pattern of top layer fabric, conjunctive tissue is changed into the figure of textura epidermoidea, access node organization chart, dobbies looming draft, jacquard by CAD/CAM weave the ground portion organization chart of file, the expansion complex tissue figure that fabric ground, top layer portion organizes, two groups of openings of the electronic jacquard machine of loom and dobbies, penetrate the two-layer warp thread up and down of jacquard and dobbies respectively and penetrate same reed jointly, total quantity of warps is 24860~49720, and penetrating the warp thread number in the reed is 6~12/every reed;
(4) face weave: adopt two openings, the special-purpose loom of two warp let-off axle to weave, in two feeding system of warp, following feeding system of warp is finished the warp let-off control of plain weave layer, last feeding system of warp is finished the warp let-off control of jacquard weave layer, two groups of warps inweave single fell after two groups of opening actions, and the strict synchronous coordination of maintenance, the warp thread of jacquard layer fabric: weft yarn is than being n: m, wherein, n, m are integer, and the opening number of times ratio of design consideration jacquard and dobbies is knitted in 1≤n≤3,1≤m≤8, line, gives corresponding line and knits file;
(5) put in order behind the lining: lining is carried out conventional treatment, standby to do.
As preferably, the weaving method of above-mentioned a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, described thin dawn material, a high material are the composite material of mulberry silk, cotton, hair, suede, synthetic fiber or above-mentioned material.
As preferably, the weaving method of above-mentioned a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, described two-layer warp thread up and down always through close be 150~160/CM.
As preferably, the weaving method of above-mentioned a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, described shedding by dobby system finishes that nexine is tabby to be weaved, this moment, jacquard participated in weaving the formation access node of multi-arm plain weave opening except small part line pin descends, all the other line pins are all mentioned, and realize that lower floor is tabby to weave; The electronic jacquard machine opening is finished weaving of top layer jacquard fabric, and this moment, the dobbies heald frame all sank, and realized weaving of upper strata jacquard fabric.
As preferably, the described total quantity of warps of weaving method of above-mentioned a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric is 36160, and penetrating the warp thread number in the reed is 8/every reed.
Because clothes and bedding are the articles for use that contact closely with human body, employing real silk, Gao Zhimian etc. can significantly improve the comfort level of product for the natural fabric of representative, and outward appearance is magnificent, has the speciality of expensive goods.
When the real silk specification: (1/20/22D 8T/S * 2) 7T/Z
1/20/22D 2.5T/S
A high cotton yarn specification: during the 120S/2 mercerized cotton, the gained fabric has good performance and comfort level.
The key of patent of the present invention all is that theoretical foundation and corresponding calculated are as follows by China's " mensuration of textile fabric gas permeability " standard:
Anti-velvet fabric is represented with air penetrability R: R=qv/A * 1.67 (mm/s)
In the formula: qv---mean air flow amount, dm
3/ min (L/min);
A---test area, cm
2
167---by dm
3/ min * cm
2Be converted into the conversion coefficient of mm/s;
Anti-velvet fabric is according to above air penetrability test number, its permeability can be divided into 5 grades, 1 grade is best, 5 grades the poorest, promptly can be considered qualified less than 3 grades, but consider that in use the permeability index of lining might descend, so enterprise's internally controlling requirement is qualified (traditional anti-velvet fabric can be less than 2 grades, but needs to handle through coating) less than 2 grades.
What at first consider when the inventive method adopts mulberry silk 20/22D raw material to test is that what tightness fabric when reaching, air permeability is qualified (<2 grades), consider from the histology angle, plain weave be in the fabric tissue the most closely, 7T/Z does warp with (1/20/22D 8T/S * 2), through close 110/CM, 1/20/22D 2.5T/S does parallel, 90/CM of filling density, the employing plain weave is weaved, the gas permeability of lining can reach 1.6 grades, so far realized that the plain weave lining that is made into the real silk raw material satisfies the requirement of anti-velvet fabric air permeability, but the plain weave lining can't be realized jacquard effect, now adopt the layering weaving technology to address this problem, nexine is the plain cloth of control air permeability, the top layer is for embodying figurative jacquard attractive in appearance, but also must solve following two problems this moment: be that two-layer fabric is by the anti-suede of nexine, top layer principle attractive in appearance realizes that layering is weaved and mutual access node, otherwise will be two linings rather than double-layer fabric, also feel and the air permeability with lining is relevant for what of binding place, binding place very little, the globality of lining can be too poor, binding place is too much, the gas permeability of lining can descend, because each binding place all is weakness when identical tightness (because tabby gas permeability index best) of gas permeability on the plain weave, have only appropriate binding place could guarantee the globality of fabric and the gas permeability index of two-layer fabric (for example: make warp with (20/22D 8T/SX2) 7T/Z is increased than plain weave lining, through close 80/CM, 2/20/22D 2.5T/S makes parallel, 65/CM of filling density, the gas permeability of plain weave woven is 3.5 grades; And make nexine with this plain cloth, and warp is made with (20/22D 8T/SX2) 7T/Z in top layer access node one deck again, and through close 80/CM, 2/20/22D 2.5T/S makes parallel, the jacquard fabric of 65/CM of filling density, its air permeability of the double-layer fabric that is made into can reach 1.3 grades).Conventional wealthy width of cloth jacquard weave Rapier looms through close generally all 120/below the CM, by above-mentioned two-layer fabric reached 160/CM through close, can not weaving on common jacquard weave Rapier looms.
The shedding by dobby system finishes that nexine is tabby to be weaved, this moment jacquard except small part line pin descend (not mentioning) participate in weaving of multi-arm plain weave opening and form the access node, all the other line pins are all mentioned, and realize that lower floor is tabby to weave; The electronic jacquard machine opening is finished weaving of top layer jacquard fabric, and this moment, the dobbies heald frame all sank, and realized weaving of upper strata jacquard fabric.
Beneficial effect is: adopt natural fabric, high tightness look is knitted the anti-velvet fabric that big jacquard weave two-layer weave technology is produced, equal both at home and abroad beyond example, can improve the class of anti-velvet fabric greatly, and solved technical barrier between high tightness and the low weight per unit area, and can prevent suede, be again light-weight fabric.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 grain pattern figure
The figure of Fig. 2 textura epidermoidea
Fig. 3 access node organization chart
Fig. 4 dobbies looming draft
Fig. 5 jacquard is weaved the ground portion organization chart of file
The expansion complex tissue figure of Fig. 6 grain pattern ground portion tissue
The structural representation of Fig. 7 double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, implementation process of the present invention is specified:
Embodiment one: with pattern shown in Figure 1 is example, chooses employing (1/20/22
D8T/S * 2) 7T/Z makes warp, always through close 160/CM, 1/20/22
D2.5T/S make parallel, total 160/CM of filling density according to pattern shown in Figure 1, is designed to Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, organization chart shown in Figure 6, structure chart etc. to grain pattern again.Again corresponding warp thread, weft yarn are loaded onto loom, adopt two feeding system of warp.With the single-warp single-abb is example, and jacquard is consistent with the opening number of times ratio of dobbies, gives corresponding line and knits file, and is smooth and easy to guarantee woven coordination, can weave at last.Venting quality is 1.34 (cm after measured
2/ cm
2/ sec), the mass area ratio grammes per square metre is 91g/m
2, using method is JISL 1096A.
Embodiment two: adopt different patterns, select (1/20/22 for use
D8T/S * 2) 7T/Z makes warp, always through close 160/CM, 2/20/22
D2.5T/S make parallel, total 130/CM of filling density weaves according to example one described process, can get fabric, can get the fabric venting quality after testing is 1.30 (cm
2/ cm
2/ sec), the mass area ratio grammes per square metre is 110g/m
2
Embodiment three: according to above-mentioned enforcement one, two described methods, to different selection, different always under the situation of close, total filling density, through similar technical process, can get following result:
Sequence number | Warp | Always through number (root/CM) | Every reed penetrates number (root) | The jacquard fabric type | Throughput | Gram weight |
Parallel | Total filling density (root/CM) | |||||
1 | (1/20/22
D 8T/S×2)7T/ | 120 | 6 | Single-warp single-abb | 2.50 | 65 |
1/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 130 | |||||
2 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 130 | 6 | Single-warp single-abb | 2.30 | 72 |
1/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 150 | |||||
3 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 160 | 8 | Double ends list latitude | 1.30 | 87 |
1/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 180 | |||||
4 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 180 | 10 | The double ends double weft | 1.15 | 95 |
1/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 180 | |||||
5 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 210 | 10 | Double ends three latitudes | 1.04 | 102 |
1/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 160 | |||||
6 | (1/20/22
D 8T/S×2)7T/ | 120 | 6 | Single-warp single-abb | 2.4 | 84 |
2/20/22
D 2.5T/ | 120 | |||||
7 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 130 | 6 | Single through double weft | 2.01 | 98 |
2/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 150 | |||||
8 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 160 | 8 | Double ends list latitude | 1.25 | 108 |
2/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 150 | |||||
9 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 180 | 10 | The double ends double weft | 1.12 | 119 |
2/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 160 | |||||
10 | (1/20/22 D 8T/S×2)7T/Z | 210 | 10 | Double ends three latitudes | 1.09 | 130 |
2/20/22 D 2.5T/S | 160 |
Claims (8)
1, high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, it has comprised top layer, nexine, conjunctive tissue, it is characterized in that the top layer is the jacquard weave layer through close 55~110/CM, 60~100/CM of filling density, nexine is to be 1~5 points/CM through close 55~110/CM, the plain weave layer of 60~100/CM of filling density, link node
2
2, high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described top layer is the jacquard weave layer of 60~90/CM, 65~80/CM of filling density, nexine is to be 2~3 points/CM through close 60~90/CM, the plain weave layer of 60~80/CM of filling density, link node
2
3, high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that described top layer is the jacquard weave layer of 80/CM, 65/CM of filling density, and nexine is to be 2 points/CM through close 90/CM, the plain weave layer of 80/CM of filling density, link node
2
4, a kind of weaving method of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric, it is undertaken by following step:
(1) knitting technology specifications design: be to realize the high tightness of double-decker, low Gram Mass, must adopt high-count fine-denier fiber, high sley and high filling density process specification in the design, two-layer up and down warp thread always through close be 110~220/CM;
(2) raw material is prepared: adopt to meet 13/15
D~/27/29
DThe height of thin dawn material and 100S/2~210S/2 props up material;
(3) spend type grain pattern, tissue design: the structure of the pattern of top layer fabric, conjunctive tissue is changed into the figure of textura epidermoidea, access node organization chart, dobbies looming draft, jacquard by CAD/CAM weave the ground portion organization chart of file, the expansion complex tissue figure that fabric ground, top layer portion organizes, two groups of openings of the electronic jacquard machine of loom and dobbies, penetrate the two-layer warp thread up and down of jacquard and dobbies respectively and penetrate same reed jointly, total quantity of warps is 24860~49720, and penetrating the warp thread number in the reed is 6~12/every reed;
(4) face weave: adopt two openings, the special-purpose loom of two warp let-off axle to weave, in two feeding system of warp, following feeding system of warp is finished the warp let-off control of plain weave layer, last feeding system of warp is finished the warp let-off control of jacquard weave layer, two groups of warps inweave single fell after two groups of opening actions, and the strict synchronous coordination of maintenance, the warp thread of jacquard layer fabric: weft yarn is than being n: m, wherein, n, m are integer, and the opening number of times ratio of design consideration jacquard and dobbies is knitted in 1≤n≤3,1≤m≤8, line, gives corresponding line and knits file;
(5) put in order behind the lining: lining is carried out conventional treatment, standby to do.
5, the weaving method of a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric according to claim 4 is characterized in that described thin dawn material, a high material are the composite material of mulberry silk, cotton, hair, suede, synthetic fiber or above-mentioned material.
6, the weaving method of a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric according to claim 4, it is characterized in that described up and down two-layer warp thread always through close be 150~160/CM.
7, the weaving method of a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric according to claim 4, it is characterized in that described shedding by dobby system finishes that nexine is tabby to be weaved, this moment, jacquard participated in weaving the formation access node of multi-arm plain weave opening except small part line pin descends, all the other line pins are all mentioned, and realize that lower floor is tabby to weave; The electronic jacquard machine opening is finished weaving of top layer jacquard fabric, and this moment, the dobbies heald frame all sank, and realized weaving of upper strata jacquard fabric.
8, the weaving method of a kind of high cover factor double-layer jacquard color knitted fabric according to claim 4 is characterized in that described total quantity of warps is 36160, and penetrating the warp thread number in the reed is 8/every reed.
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