A kind of lock water moisture-keeping composition with mousse quality
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, relate to a kind of compositions of mousse quality, more specifically, relate to a kind of compositions with 3 D stereo lock water moisture-keeping system.
Background technology
Human body skin is made up of epidermis, corium and subcutaneus adipose tissue, and every layer all contains moisture.Skin is directly exposed in atmospheric environment, both can discharge moisture from body to air, and also can absorb moisture from the external world.The general water content of the outmost horny layer of skin should be not less than 10%, and water content is that the skin of 10-20% is soft and moist, smooth, flexible, if lower than 10%, then keratodermatitis is too dry, even occurs squama or breaks.Dry skin is easily old and feeble in advance, and squama appears in skin or break skin will be made to lose barrier function, causes antibacterial and virus very easily to enter human body from rent, and then makes the various disease of human infection.Therefore, ensure that skin has sufficient moisture extremely important for the health maintaining body.
For the moisture making skin keep sufficient, be usually coated with at skin surface the cosmetics that one deck has a lock water moisture-keeping efficacy and come for replenish water for skin and stop moisture loss in skin.Traditional moisturizing class cosmetics, many is all by adding a large amount of mineral grease, makes it rest on skin surface, moisture of skin is not easily evaporated lost; Or add a large amount of polyhydric alcohol, can absorb water from surrounding, thus play the effect of moisturizing.
But mineral grease skin is difficult to absorb, and polyhydric alcohol is under the environment of drying, and difficulty has desirable moistening effect.Further, the polyhydric alcohol of these mineral greases and high concentration be all difficult to be absorbed by the skin and extended stationary periods at skin surface, cause use time feel thick and heavy, use rear skinfeel sticky, and easily block pore, cause allergy, rise the phenomenon such as pox, erythema.
Tradition moisturizing series products performance of keeping humidity is single, has at least a parameter not make us being satisfied with completely.Therefore, need one to have multiple moistening effect cosmetics, can keep the skin wet to skin continuously, and pin skin moisture, even if in the environment of drying, also can maintain the water profit of skin a whole day.
Macromolecule water absorbent material is three bit space networks of the low crosslinking degree containing a large amount of hydrophilic groups (as carboxyl, hydroxyl, carboxylate group, amide groups etc.).The water of its Absorbable rod and maintenance own wt 1,100 times, is also not easy dehydration simultaneously under heating pressure environment.Macromolecule water absorbent material is applied in various aspects: 1) daily life and hygienic article, as diaper, detergent; 2) industrial goods, as industrial dehydrant, encapsulant; 3) medical and health, as imitated cartilage, artificial skin; 4) agriculture articles for use, as Nursery stock transplanting water-retaining agent etc.Above-mentioned application make use of high-hydroscopicity and the water-retaining property of macromolecule water absorbent material mostly.
At cosmetic field, also often use macromolecule water absorbent material, but general as thickening agent for improving the character of mastic, become mousse quality as made cosmetics.In Chinese patent CN201510030499, disclose and add macromolecule water absorbent material sodium polyacrylate graft starch in eye shadow, allow aqueous gelled, oiliness powder is wrapped up simultaneously, the skinfeel that silk is sliding is provided.
So far, at cosmetic field, the unmanned macromolecule water absorbent material that uses releases water for skin moisturizing substantially.The present invention mainly utilizes macromolecule water absorbent material, especially sodium polyacrylate graft starch, as the important component releasing water moisturizing in cosmetics.
Summary of the invention
An object of the present invention is to provide one and there is 3 D stereo lock water moisture-keeping composition;
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of and have the compositions of admiring silkiness quality, said composition can smooth skin instantaneously, provides best skinfeel.
Object of the present invention is realized by following technological means:
The invention provides and a kind ofly have the lock water moisture-keeping composition admiring a quality, said composition contains:
I) macromolecule water absorbent material is used for releasing water;
Ii) film forming polymer is used for water conservation;
Iii) ceramide is used for deep layer reparation moisturizing.
Described macromolecule water absorbent material is polymer hyaluronic acid sodium, polyglutamic acid, the one or more combination in sodium polyacrylate graft starch; Optimization polypropylene acid sodium graft starch.
Described film forming polymer is polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, the one or more combination in polyquaternary ammonium salt-51; Preferred polyquaternary ammonium salt-51.
Described ceramide is the one or more combination in Cer EOS, Cer NS, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, Cer EOS A, Cer AP II; One or more combination in preferred Cer EOS, ceramide 3, Cer AP II.
Macromolecule water absorbent material
Macromolecule water absorbent material is containing a large amount of hydrophilic groups (as carboxyl, hydroxyl, carboxylate group, amide groups etc.), therefore the moisture of own wt thousand times can be absorbed, simultaneously, because it has micro-cross-linked three D cyberspace result, molecule can be hindered to expand further, make to add pressure in heating and be also not easy dehydration, and possess water retaining function.
In the compositions of the present invention, the parts by weight of macromolecule water absorbent material are 0.05-10 part; Preferred 0.5-5 part.
As a kind of preferred version, the present invention's preferred macromolecule water absorbent material sodium polyacrylate graft starch.
Sodium polyacrylate graft starch is in acrylic or methacrylic acid alkali and carries out graft copolymerization with starch and a kind of polymer-function material of obtaining afterwards.
Sodium polyacrylate graft starch is used for thickening agent and filler at cosmetic field, and making product become half mousse shape is that the art personnel are known.But it is used in cosmetics, releases water for water conservation, still belongs to the first time.
Inventor finds after deliberation, when the raising content of sodium polyacrylate graft starch in cosmetics, and composite with film forming polymer, ceramide after, sodium polyacrylate graft starch has the function that water conservation releases water.The addition releasing water function for water conservation be generally for thickening function addition 2-5 doubly.
But when improving content in cosmetics of sodium polyacrylate graft starch, sodium polyacrylate graft starch is easily united in water, not easily disperses.
Study discovery through inventor, by sodium polyacrylate graft starch first with after propylene glycol or butanediol dispersion, then add in aqueous phase, be then easy to dispersion, the homogeneous exquisiteness of the cosmetics prepared.
Further, the particle diameter of described sodium polyacrylate graft starch is 0.6-60 μm, preferred 0.6-25 μm, more preferably 1.0-12 μm.
It is most preferred that sodium polyacrylate graft starch is dispersed in glycerol or propylene glycol or butanediol, form pre-composition; Preferably propylene glycol; And the viscosity of pre-composition at 28 DEG C described is thus less than 6000mpa.s, is preferably less than 3000mpa.s.
Preferred sodium polyacrylate graft starch can pin the pure water of own wt hundred times and even several thousand times, can give skin a whole day long-acting release water moisturizing.
The more important thing is that particle diameter is that the sodium polyacrylate graft starch of 0.6-25 μm is dispersed in water, imbibition and form small soft particle, these small soft particles give the quality as mousse of system uniqueness, skin can be smoothed instantaneously, cover microgroove, modify pore, keep dressing more natural, lasting.
Film forming polymer
In cosmetics, film forming polymer is often utilized to carry out the moisturizing of lock water.Phospholipid polymer in film forming polymer can be filled between corneocyte to layered, forms water barrier, prevents loss of moist.
In the compositions of the present invention, the parts by weight of film forming polymer are 0.01-0.5 part; Preferred 0.05-0.5 part.
In an embodiment of the present invention, preferred film forming polymer is polyquaternary ammonium salt-51.
Polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 is a kind of polymer with superpower holding moisture that imitation cell membrane designs, and its molecular formula is: C
19h
36nO
8p, structural formula as shown in Figure 1.
Polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 had both had the filming function of the hydrated gel film of phospholipid polymer, prevented water loss; Also have the seizure effect to pungent produced by hydrophobic group from butyl methyl acrylate, both complement each other, thus have given play to more preferably skin effect.Polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 imitates human skin cell's film and designs, and has better moisture retention, more can pin the moisture of skin than hyaluronic acid, gives more permanent moistening and smooth sense.Meanwhile, polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 is good with skin affinity, and safety is high.
Ceramide
In the compositions of the present invention, the parts by weight of ceramide are 0.01-0.5 part; Preferred 0.05-0.5 part.
In an embodiment of the present invention, preferred ceramide is Cer EOS, ceramide 3, Cer AP II.
Ceramide is the main composition composition (> 50%) being present in lipoid between human body skin outermost corneocyte.It can form the molecular complex of stratiform by hydrogen bond, promote the hydration of epidermis, thus improve the ability of the maintenance moisture of skin.
Ceramide can strengthen the cohesiveness of epidermis cell, repair cell barrier function, it and skin affinity is good, can rapid osmotic skin, deep layer reparation is carried out to skin, and assists in removing the wrinkle of skin.
The present composition adopts the sodium polyacrylate graft starch with SuperPro outlet capacity to do water conservation and releases water preparation, to the moisturizing that skin a whole day is long-acting; Polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 imitation cell membrane is adopted to stop the loss of moisture of skin; Adopt, energy rapid osmotic cutaneous nerve amide deep layer maintenance skin good with skin affinity, keep responsive skin to dewater.Be combined with skin by above-mentioned three, in guarantee system, all moisturizing ingredient are enclosed system by polymer, and keep and the connecting of skin surface, thus formation sodium polyacrylate graft starch water conservation releases water, polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 surface filming lock water, the 3 D stereo lock water moisture-keeping system of ceramide deep layer maintenance moisturizing.
As a kind of preferred version, the present composition is also containing hyaluronate sodium, and the parts by weight of described hyaluronate sodium are 0.02-0.2 part, preferred 0.05-0.1 part.
All the other elements of compositions
Composition comprises water soluble component of the present invention and oil-soluble constitents, be therefore suitable for the carrier preferred water oil-in cream frost of this compositions, emulsion or gel, and can contain other nonessential components many.
These described nonessential components are acceptable at cosmetic field, or their additional results of use are provided, precondition is these nonessential components is compatible with solvent described herein and preparation method physically and chemically, and too can not weaken the stability relevant with the present composition, effect or other purposes.
The nonessential composition of these routines well known to a person skilled in the art, they include, but is not limited to emollient, thickening agent, buffer agent, cosmetic astringents, film former, wetting agent, spice, pigment, antiseptic, permeation-promoter, solvent, suspending agent, emulsifying agent, cleaning agent, solubilizing agent, sunscreen, antioxidant or free radical scavenger, chelating agen, and natural extract and inorganic particle are as silicon dioxide and boron nitride.
Carrier
Be applicable to the carrier preferred water oil-in cream frost of compositions of the present invention, emulsion or gel.Oil-in-water type cream frost, emulsion or gel are made up of aqueous phase and oil phase.Wherein oil phase, such as: lipid, oil or oily material, exists with the form of small particle or droplet, and is suspended in aqueous phase as aqueous phase is surrounded.General oil phase 1%-50%, preferred 5%-30% and continuous print aqueous phase 1%-99%, preferred 50%-90% containing dispersion in oil-in-water type cream frost, emulsion or gel.
Preferred cream frost, emulsion or gel, have enough denseness or yield point to prevent the deposition of granule.Carrier itself can be inertia, or himself can have the benefit on Dermatology, carrier should be also physically and chemically with necessary component compatibility of the present invention, and should not weaken the stability relevant with the present composition, effect or other application benefit inadequately.
The carrier being preferably suitable for this compositions has the apparent viscosity of about 5000 to about 200000mpa.s, such as: preferred cream frost has the apparent viscosity of about 30000 to about 150000mpa.s; Preferred emulsion has the apparent viscosity of 5000 to about 30000mpa.s.Apparent viscosity can by using Brookfield DVIIRV viscometer, and rotating shaft TD, measures under 5rpm, or uses its equivalent way to measure.Treat (usually, after preparing carrier, under 25 DEG C and ambient pressure, at least to leave standstill 24 hours) by after the carrier stabilizes prepared, viscosimetric analysis is carried out to carrier.At 25 DEG C, after rotating shaft rotates 30 seconds, precision determination is carried out to carrier.
As a rule, it is 8.5 or lower that the carrier being applicable to compositions of the present invention is mixed with pH, and common pH scope is 5.0-8.0, more preferably some oil-in-water type cream frost, emulsion or gels of 5.5-7.5.
Accompanying drawing explanation
The structural formula of Fig. 1 polyquaternary ammonium salt-51
Fig. 2 A20-25 year age level skin moisture content rate of increase change
Fig. 2 B25-30 year age level skin moisture content rate of increase change
Fig. 2 C30-35 year age level skin moisture content rate of increase change
Fig. 3 uses the skin moisture content rate of increase containing different active ingredient composition to change
Detailed description of the invention
Further illustrate technical scheme of the present invention below by way of specific embodiment, specific embodiment does not represent limiting the scope of the invention.Some nonessential amendments that other people make according to theory of the present invention and adjustment still belong to protection scope of the present invention.
Compositions containing different component
The embodiment of table 1 different component
Preparation method:
1. the sodium polyacrylate graft starch in A phase component, HANSHENGJIAO, hyaluronate sodium propylene glycol are added aqueous phase pot after being uniformly dispersed, then add other components in A phase successively, dissolve dispersion and mix and be heated to 75-80 degree Celsius.
2. B phase component is added successively heating for dissolving in oil phase pot even, be warming up to 75-80 degree Celsius.
3. evacuation, by A phase suction emulsifying pot, starts agitator, then takes out B phase and enter emulsifying pot, homogenizing 10 minutes, is incubated 75-80 degree Celsius and stirs 15 minutes.
4. open cooling water temperature, add C phase each composition when 40 degrees Celsius successively, stir.
5. stir and be cooled to 37 degrees Celsius, discharging.
Embodiment 4
Different age group human body skin moisture test under dehumidifier environment
Choose the tested volunteer of 20-35 year women 15, wherein 20-25 year 5, be numbered 1-5, as First Year age group experimenter 25-30 year 5, be numbered 6-10, as Second Year age group experimenter; 30-35 year 5, be numbered 11-15, as the 3rd age group experimenter.Choose two regions of face's symmetry, respectively as the test zone of matched group and test group, test in dehumidifier environment [temperature 20 DEG C, humidity 50%], test event is moisture test.The lock water moisturiser of test group prepared by embodiment 1, the common moisturiser prepared by matched group comparative example 1, the two does same test under the same conditions.Moisture test is in the interval drafted, and test period is 8 hours.
Moisture content of skin is tested:
Adopt the test of capacitance method principle, moisture measurement probe vertical is pressed in tested skin surface, and probe top is pushed back a segment distance, and probe is inner has a spring to make probe top keep the pressure of 0.16N to be pressed in skin surface, in one second, main frame demonstrates result, and provide voice prompt.
Clean skin of face, after experimenter sits quietly 30 minutes in constant environment, uses skinanalysis apparatus (German CK, LutomerMPA580) to carry out the measurement of recipient site blank value.According to the facial zone subregion of test group and matched group, lock water moisturiser prepared by the embodiment 1 of smearing equivalent respectively at cheek antimere and common moisturiser prepared by comparative example 1, the moisture in test two regions, is respectively 30 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours interval time.Record the skin moisture content of three groups of experimenters in test group and matched group region, record each test data.The result of skin moisture content is represented, between 0-150 by the humidity measurements (MoistwreMeasurementValue, MMV) of setting.Each test data is deducted the change that its blank value is this period MMV value, more namely draws the rate of increase of MMV value divided by blank value.
Skin moisture content Growth Rate Calculation formula is:
Skin moisture content rate of increase %=[MMVt-MMVo]/MMVo × 100%
MMVo-smear front skin MMV
MMVt-smear rear t period skin MMV
Shown in the result of the test table 2 of embodiment 1 (EG) and comparative example 1 (CG) moisture rate of increase and Fig. 2 A-2C:
Table 2 skin moisture content rate of increase
According to above test data, draw following result of the test:
1, due to the difference at skin age, all in all, older group is in longer interval, and skin moisture content declines comparatively obvious, and matched group comparatively test group is more obvious.
2, in the grouping of all age group, test group is in longer interval, and skin still has good moisture, and under equal conditions then comparatively test group is obviously low for matched group.
In addition, according to above-mentioned test method, according to the lock water moisturizer prepared by embodiment 2 and the common moisturizer prepared by comparative example 2 as test and contrast, lock water moisturizing gel prepared by embodiment 3 and the common moisturizing gel prepared by comparative example 3 are as test and contrast, carry out the test of skin moisture content rate of increase change, the result drawn is: the skin care item containing compositions of the present invention, even if in the environment of dehumidifier, still can provide permanent lock water performance of keeping humidity highly for the skin of Different age group crowd, keep the whole day of skin to moisten.
Table 3 is containing different active ingredient composition
Preparation method: with embodiment 1-3
Embodiment 5
Containing the mensuration of different combination of active principles to skin moisturization:
Choose Second Year age group 25-30 year 5 experimenters in embodiment 4, be numbered 1-5, choose arm five regions, respectively as the test zone of embodiment 1, comparative example 4, comparative example 5, comparative example 6, comparative example 7, numbering A, B, C, D, E respectively.Test in dehumidifier environment [temperature 20 DEG C, humidity 50%], test event is moisture test.Do same test under the same conditions.Moisture test is in the interval drafted, and test period is 8 hours.
Moisture content of skin method of testing is with embodiment 4.The result of the test of moisture rate of increase is as shown in table 4 and Fig. 3:
Table 4 uses the skin moisture content rate of increase containing different active ingredient composition to change
According to above test data, draw following result of the test:
A: containing sodium polyacrylate graft starch+polyquaternary ammonium salt-51+ ceramide
B: containing sodium polyacrylate graft starch+polyquaternary ammonium salt-51
C: containing sodium polyacrylate graft starch+ceramide
D: containing polyquaternary ammonium salt-51+ ceramide
E: containing sodium polyacrylate graft starch:
Use the moisture content of skin decrease speed of E far away faster than other groups, especially the phase after the test, only more obvious containing sodium polyacrylate graft starch combination E decrease speed, be probably because, sodium polyacrylate graft starch in E does not only release water water conservation, absorbs moisture on the contrary to skin.Illustrating and only add sodium polyacrylate graft starch, is very little for moistening effect.
Use the moisture content of skin decrease speed of A lower than other 4 kinds combinations, to the moisturizing intensity of skin and persistency want far away be better than not containing or contain the product of one or both above-mentioned effective ingredient.In the present composition, the performance of keeping humidity of three kinds of effective ingredient to skin has the effect of Synergistic.
Even if the present composition in a dry environment, also have and there is significant moisturizing lock water effect, and the quality as a kind of mousse can be provided, there is during use unique skinfeel, flesh can be smoothed instantaneously.