The Passionate Foodie

On our first day in Portugal, we traveled from the Porto Airport to the Vinho Verde region,ere we would sightsee in Ponte de Lima and visit Quinta do Ameal. We also stayed in that region over night at the Monverde Wine Hotel Experience, located in Teloes, and part of the Quinta da Lixa winery. The winery, established in 1986, is owned by the Meireles family, and the family now owns about 140 hectares of vineyards, although they also purchase grapes from local growers. They produce about 7 Million bottles a year, creating 26 different wines. About 52% of their wines are exported to about 35 different countries, with Brazil, the U.S. and Germany being their three top markets. 

"Krug is a real wine; most champagne is fizzy celebration drink."
--The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975, A quote from Remi Krug

As I mentioned yesterday, Krug & Co. was founded by Joseph Krug in 1843, and only six years later, his Champagne was available in the United States. Joseph's philosophy and beliefs about Champagne production still have a significant effect on Krug's current winemakers. The company has remained true to its roots, yet still has looked to the future, innovating when they feel it will lead to better Champagne. That may be an important reason why this House has such a stellar reputation.

Recently, I interviewed Julie Cavil (pictured above), the Wine Director at Krug, delving deeper into the world of Krug, gaining a better understanding of what lies behind the production of their esteemed Champagnes. Julie was personable, sharing numerous stories about her time at Krug, and her passion for Champagne and Krug was more than evident. To her, this is the best job ever and she is quite sincere in her love for Krug and Champagne.

Julie began her career working in customer relations for an advertising agency, but in 2001, desirous of a career change, she moved with her husband to Champagne. She studied winemaking at the University of Reims and worked during four harvests at Moët & Chandon. In 2006, she was hired as a winemaker at Krug. As the Wine Director, she works with four other team members, and she is involved in the production of all of their different Champagnes. She only has praise for her team members.

Compared to some of the other major Champagne Houses, production at Krug is relatively small, possibly around 600,000 cases as contrasted to the millions of cases produced by other Houses. Most of their production is for their Grand Cuvée. Julie stated that Krug possesses the autonomy of the small Grower but the means of a big House. Their production level is likely to remain relatively the same for years to come, with no desire to increase their output. They don't want to sacrifice quality for quantity.

As Julie put it, at Krug, they never blend an element they don't know. Currently, their winemaking team is able to handle the amount of wines and samples they possess, with the ability to properly understand each and every separate element. That is vital when you are blending wines to create Champagne. If they suddenly doubled the amount of samples, they would be overwhelmed, unable to properly devote sufficient time to each sample, Their understanding of the sample wines would suffer and they couldn't properly blend what was needed. They require a certain level of intimacy with the sample wines that cannot be achieved by them past a certain point.

It is a great challenge, as Julie mentioned, to make the very best Champagne, year after year, replicating the same quality. The object of Champagne is to pick and select grapes from all over to produce the desired blend. It is about the expression of the grapes and vineyards, despite annual variations due to vintage. For the blend, you "need strong voices in individual elements" and want to preserve individual typicity, what makes each plot unique.

However, at Krug, there is no compromise permitted when selecting the wines for their blends and Julie provided a fascinating example. Krug had produced about 12,000 bottles of 1999 Clos Mesnil, from one of their top vineyards. The tasting committee sampled this wine on numerous occasions, and Julie mentioned that though it was good, there was something missing from the middle of the palate. Their opinion was that the Champagne didn't meet their standards and they proposed to the President of Krug that the Champagne shouldn't be released. That is a huge statement! The President eventually agree with them, the Champagne wasn't released and most of it ended up being used as a reserve wine. Julie was extremely proud of her decision being backed by the President.

"Krug has body, you have something to eat in Krug, a roundness, a fairly strong bouquet. That's why you can even drink it after coffee."
--The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975, A quote from Remi Krug

Julie mentioned that one of the first lessons you learn at Krug is to have patience. The production process is a lengthy one, including at least 7 years of aging for their Grand Cuvée, and even longer, 0-12 years, for their Vintage champagnes. When you consider the addition of reserve wines to each blend, it is easy to see why they sometimes say that at least 20 years go into the production of each bottle of Krug.

Around 1848, Joseph Krug penned a notebook of his beliefs and philosophy on Champagne, giving a sense to what he was doing, one that is still used at Krug. Joseph wrote the notebook for his son, Paul, who was only six years old at the time. In time, Paul would assume the leadership at Krug, bringing an equal passion as his father. Joseph's first belief was that you need good elements for good champagne, and his second belief was that a good House should only create two cuvées of quality, a Good Cuvée and a Cuvée of the Circumstances. Currently at Krug, their first cuvée is their Grand Cuvée and the second is their Vintage. There isn't a hierarchy of quality between these two Champagnes, merely a difference in price.

Everything begins in the vineyard, where Krug seeks the best elements for their Cuvées. Each Clos is the best illustration of the House, presenting 1 plot, 1 year, 1 variation. Their vision of the cuvée is to push each unique plot. They are referred to as a soloist wine, and by the end of harvest they will have about 250 soloist wines. They must respect what they harvest, and fortunately have the luxury of being at the right time at the right plot during harvest. They sleep little during the pre-harvest, as they must taste all of the lots each day before harvest, to monitor the aromatics. Once they detect no more vegetal notes, when the taste of the grapes is fruity, they know they have about 24 hours to pick them all.

However, they will only use the best, as they don't want to make an average wine. For example, the Clos de Mesmil plot is only 1.84 hectares, yet there could be a difference as much as 1.5% alcohol in different parts of that small plot. As such, not all of the grapes are the same, and Krug must differentiate the best.

Everything will then be vilified separately, the preservation of their individuality, best reflective of the specific vineyard. This is a time of close attention to details, of intense monitoring, as a small mistake can ruin everything far too easily. They need a naturally clarified must and Krug is very demanding with all of their pressing houses, keeping them to a 24 hour deadline.

The musts are initially kept in casks, with an average age of 17 years, and Krug owns about 4700 casks. Sometime in November or December, the tasting committee, which is composed of six people, equally split between male and female, will taste all of the musts, which are still young, with an understated personality. Each of the six people has a different personality, and some are more sensitive to certain aromas than others. They know each other well, working as a collective for the blending process. At this point though, no decisions are made, simply initial observations.

Traditional racking is then done and the wines are isolated in small stainless steel vats. At this time, the tasting committee will also taste all of the reserve wines, about 150 in total from 15 different harvests. It won't be until the Spring that the tasting committee will return to the wines from the last harvest. The wines open up more in Spring, and they can witness the evolution of the wines from winter to spring. For one hour each day, they will taste about 15 wines, giving descriptions to each wine, including deciding whether the wine will go into the Grand Cuvée, the reserve wines, or even the Rosé.

Finally, they construct a blueprint for the Cuvée, based on their tasting notes only, and in the last week of March, they create their blend. This year, they will bottle the 174th edition of the Grand Cuvée, which won't be released until 2026. With all of the different wines they have available for blending, it isn't too difficult to make the Grand Cuvée. It is more difficult to decide on whether to bottle a Vintage or not. One of the toughest challenges is choosing whether to use a wine for a Vintage Champagne or to give it to the Reserve wines. There is a definite need to replace Reserve wines to preserve future creators of Grand Cuvée. For example, the 2012 vintage was great, but there was a small yield, and they made the touch choice not to make a Vintage that year and give all of the wine to the Reserve wines.


"Private Cuvee is Krug. A vintage Krug is a marriage between Krug and the year."
--The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975, A quote from Remi Krug

I tasted through three Krug wines, including the 2004 Vintage, the Grand Cuvée, and the Rosé. My personal favorite was the Rosé, though all three were excellent and I wouldn't be disappointed drinking any of them.

There is always a story to tell about a Vintage. At Krug, Vintage is how they tell the story of the tasting room after the harvest, how they personally felt about that year. Their Vintage Champagne is always a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. They also prefer to have two different Vintages available in the market for comparison purposes. Julie stated that her favorite more recent Vintage was 1988, which was an austere year. She loves that austerity, feeling it is a signifier of elegance and an excellent aging potential. 1988 is a Vintage for connoisseurs, and will become even better with more time. Julie is also a fan of the 2002 Vintage.

"...the 1928 vintage Krug, which many experts call the champagne of the century."
The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975
The 2004 Vintage (about $250) is part of a trilogy of excellent, consecutive years, from 2002 to 2004, and is only the second trilogy in the history, the other being 1988 to 1990. The 2002 to 2004 wasn't released in chronological order but in tasting order, so the 2003 Vintage was released first. The 2004 Vintage, which Julie has given the nickname "luminous freshness," is a blend of 39% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir, and 24% Pinot Meunier. I found this Champagne to be fresh, elegant and complex, with intriguing notes of citrus, brioche, and honey. Intensely aromatic, dry, refreshing, and with a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is an absolutely delicious Champagne, where each sip brings something new to your palate.

The Grand Cuvée (about $180) is usually a blend of about 150-250 wines, and at Krug, they like to use musical references to explain their Champagne. Sometimes they refer to the "music of the year," comparing specific vintages to types of instruments. For example, 1990, which was a hot year, is compared to brass instruments while 1998 is compared to a string quartet. Then, when they put together all of these varied ensembles, they can create a full symphony orchestra in their Grand Cuvée. 

This particular Grand Cuvée is the 167th edition, which is a blend of 48% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 17% Pinot Meunier. The blend also contains 191 different wines, including 13 vintages (the oldest from 1995, the newest from 2011), and 42% Reserve wines. Once again, this Champagne was fresh, elegant and complex, and seemed to possess even more complexity than the Vintage. Besides fascinating notes of citrus, tropical fruit, floral elements, candied fruit, and toast, there was a subtle earthiness as well. Excellent acidity, a powerful finish, and this is certainly a Champagne to slowly savor, enjoying each intriguing moment, bringing subtle differences with each sip.

Krug values transparency in most matters, so each bottle of Grand Cuvée now possesses a special ID code on their label, which can be used on the Krug website to provide information about that particular edition of the Grand Cuvée. One of the only pieces of information you won't find is the disgorgment date as they feel it gives the wrong message to consumers.

My favorite of the three Champagnes was the Rosé (about $300), which Julie stated is the toughest blend to produce. For a long time, Krug was opposed to producing a Rosé, as initially Rosé was seen as a simple wine, and not a high end product that would fit within the Krug portfolio. It was the 6th generation which decide to experiment with Rosé, using grapes from the 1976 harvest, which was a hot year. They kept the Rosé a secret as it aged in their cellar. Finally, during a Sunday lunch, they poured some of the Rosé, blind, for their father, Paul Krug, who had long opposed Rosé. He approved of it and Krug finally began to create this blend each year.

Julie stated that the Rosé doesn't possess the same depth as the other blends as it contains far less wines. A significant aspect of the difficulty of producing this wine is the addition of some red wine. Thus, they have to anticipate what the blend will offer after about seven years of aging. The red wine changes everything, making that anticipation more formidable. However, this Rosé was my favorite of the three Champagnes.

This Rosé is the 22nd edition, a blend of 51% Pinot Noir, 17% Chardonnay, and 32% Pinot Meunier. The blend also contains 22 wines, 5 vintages (2005-2010), 47% Reserve wines, and 9% macerated Pinot Noir. Elegant, complex, and subtle, it seduces your palate with its compelling melange of flavors, from red fruits to citrus. It is delicate and fresh, with crisp acidity and pure deliciousness. Each sip tantalizes and satisfies, and will make you yearn for another sip. While it might not possess the depth of the other two Champagnes, it still pleases on many levels. This is a Champagne of romance, a bottle to share with your significant other for celebrations, or simply to make any night even more special.

Krug doesn't produce inexpensive Champagnes, and for most people, they would be a significant splurge. If we look back almost fifty years, we can find a newspaper which addressed this very issue. The Pottstown Mercury, September 8, 1972 (PA) published an article, High Cost of Champagne Due to Process of Making Wine, and primarily used the example of Krug. As the article stated, "Krug is the champagne house that nearly every connoisseur ranks first, as one of three or four favorites, or in a class by itself." The article discussed a number of reasons why Krug incurred significant costs in producing their Champagne, such as the cost of its grapes to its small oak casks. The article concluded, "Such scrupulous rejection of everything but the best, vigilent control, retention of innumerable hand operations, and long years of cellar age result in superb champagne. Naturally it's expensive."

What is the future of Krug? At Krug, they are always questioning their methods, processes, and technology, seeking ways to optimize their work and bring more precision. Despite their strong foundation in the past, in the philosophy of Joseph Krug, they still value technology. However, their primary question when addressing new technology is, will it bring change for the best? And often, they need to wait seven years, when the Champagne ages in the cellar, before determining the effect of many changes. Sustainability is a priority to them and they are always learning more and more about this issue. They also have been accumulating mounds of data about each of their vineyard plots, a repository of information for future generations.

Finally, Julie also mentioned that a dream of hers would be to one day make her own type of Krug. To her, Champagne is charismatic, possessed of great expression. Her vision would be to "try to reconcile all the elements into one," to put the power, elegance and aromatics into "one sip." That sounds like quite the challenge and I hope that Julie gets that opportunity one day.

"Only by blending, do you get balance. It is like a symphony as opposed to a sonata. From beginning to end, we make choices of what fits with our quality."
--Chicago Tribune, August 26, 1976, quote from Remi Krug

It's difficult to find a compelling Pinot Noir for under $20. Most under that price point are too simple, wines without character. They may be drinkable but they won't bring a smile to your face or a twinkle to your eye. However, when you find a sub-$20 Pinot Noir of complexity and elegance, a wine that tasted blind would make you think of a $30-$40 wine, then you've struck vinous gold.

Last week, I struck that vinous gold.

I had the pleasure of meeting Matias Cruzat (pictured above), the winemaker for the 1865 label of Viña San Pedro in Chile, for a private tasting of several of his wines. Viña San Pedro is the second largest winery in Chile, having been founded in 1865 in the Curicó Valley by the Correa Albano brothers. The winery has a number of different labels, and in 1997, they created the 1865 label, a nod to the date of their founding. The concept behind that label is to produce single-varietal wines from different terroirs, those which best represent the grapes.

Currently, they produce seven wines under the 1865 Selected Vineyards label, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Syrah, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also two higher end categories under this label, including 1865 Special Editions and 1865 Limited Edition. The production of the 1875 wines often include use of concrete eggs (especially for the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc) and foudres (large wooden casks of French oak, from 1000 to 5000 liters).
Matias has been working for the winery for 4.5 years, and has prior experience working at wineries in California and South Africa. He was born in the U.S., to Chilean parents, as his father studied for his MBA in the U.S. and also worked for Proctor & Gamble in Cincinnati, Ohio. Overall, Matias is personable and engaging, upfront and intelligent. He is also a passionate advocate for his 1865 wines, as well as the wines of Chile.

The 1865 wines I tasted all cost under $20 retail, typically $17.99 at your local wine store, and are imported by United Liquors. At this price point, they are excellent values. Matias stated that as the cost of land and grapes are much lower in Chile, they are able to offer much better prices on their wines than you might find from other regions, such as California and Oregon.

The 2017 1865 Selected Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Santo Domingo vineyard in the Leyda Valley. The vineyard is only about 3.5 kilometers from the coast, one of the closest to the ocean. The vineyard also has primarily granitic soils and many fossilized shells have been found in the soil. The closeness to the ocean allows the grapes to ripen more slowly, leading to more aromatic wines with a strong mineral component. Only about 5000 cases of this wine were produced.

Fermentation takes about a month and about 20% of the grapes spent time in neutral French oak foudres, giving contact with the lees. The 2007 vintage was tough, a warmer vintage. The wine has a pale yellow color with the aroma of citrus and a touch of green pepper, the typical green of Leyda Valley. On the palate, Matias notes that the wine is unlike "New World explosive Sauvignon Blanc."  I found the palate to be complex, with intriguing citrus, including a touch of grapefruit, and mineral notes, a crisp acidity and a touch of green pepper. An interesting white wine with plenty of character at this price point.

The 1865 2015 Selected Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Las Piedras vineyard of the Valle Del Maipo. The Cabernet spent about 12 months in 95% French and 5% American oak, with 50% first use and 50% second use barrels. About 50,000 cases of this wine were produced, so you should be able to find this readily available.

The Cabernet possesses a dark red color with a fruity aroma with hints of spice and a touch of chocolate. On the palate, it is soft and elegant, with low tannins, and a delightful melange of cherry, plum, and blackberry with subtle spice notes and a lengthy finish. Matias mentioned that the Maipo Valley is well known for the soft tannins in its grapes, one of the most important aspects of that area. With its softer tannins, this Cabernet doesn't need a steak to tame its tannins, and can also pair well with everything from a burger to a Bolognese. It might also work with a rich fish like Salmon or Tuna. This is a Cabernet with plenty of character and complexity at this price point, making it a very good value.

And to me, the clear winner of the tasting was the 2016 1865 Pinot Noir. Matias mentioned that he is obsessed with Pinot Noir and it's clear that he has created a stunning example in this wine. He noted that though some Pinot Noir had been planted in Chile many years ago, it is only within the last 10-20 years that anyone has become serious about it. The grapes for this wine come from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui. About ten years ago, they planted their first vineyards in Elqui, starting with Sauvignon Blanc and then later planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyard is about 20 kilometers from the ocean and the region is both coastal and Andes, a cool climate region that once grew grapes primarily for producing Pisco.

The wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. It has a 13.5% ABV, as Matias stated he didn't want to make a high-alcohol Pinot Noir. Matias also stated that this wine was produced in the same fashion as he would produce a high-end Pinot Noir. As only 1500 cases of this wine were made, it won't be around too long and could be more difficult to find, but I highly recommend you seek it out.

This Pinot Noir has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

I could not rave enough about this wine. I tasted it without knowing the price and would have thought it easily cost $30-$40, and been worth that price. When I learned it cost less than $20, I was stunned. Initially, I was told it was less than $15, but later research indicated that was the wholesale price and it retails about $17.99. At that price, it is still a killer value and it receives my highest recommendation. I'm planning on stocking up on this wine and encourage all wine lovers to do the same.  

Kudos to Matias for producing such delicious and compelling wines at a great price point.

"Really, it is the Asturian cider makers who are calling the attention of Americans to your magnificent region and sidra is serving as an excellent ambassador."
--James Asbel

Besides my love for the diverse wines of Spain, from briny Manzanilla Sherry to aged Rioja, from crisp Albarino to fruity Mencia, I also enjoy their Ciders, from Asturias (which are known as Sidra) and the Basque region (which are known as Sagardoa). Cider may even have originated in Spain a few thousand years ago. Spanish ciders present their own unique flavor profiles and it's great to see more of them entering the U.S. market.

A Ciders of Spain tasting event, led by importer James Asbel, was recently held at Pemberton Farms in Cambridge, and two Sidra makers were in attendance, from Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra. I've previously enjoyed Sidra from both of these producers but I wanted the opportunity to meet and speak with the Sidra makers. Please check out my two prior posts for more background and history on Ciders of Spain, James Asbel, Sidra and some specific reviews: Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 1) and Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 2).

Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Viuda de Angelón (the "widow of Angelon"), which was founded in 1947 by Alfredo Ordoñez Onís at the orchards of La Alameda. In 1978 the cidery was moved to La Teyera, Nava, home of the annual Asturian Cider Competition and the Museo de la Sidra de Asturias. It remains a family-owned and operated artisan cidery and they also operate a sidrería, a cider pub, in the center of Nava.

Francisco is a 3rd generation Sidra maker and acquired an oenology degree from the University of Valencia. Though he worked in the wine industry first, he eventually gravitated back to the family cidery. There isn't a school in Spain for cider making, so an oenology degree is the closest educational degree you can acquire. Francisco has been able to apply his winemaking knowledge, bringing more scientific analysis to the Sidra production. Francisco produces a wide range of Sidra, four of which are currently imported into the U.S. He stated that his biggest challenge in Sidra making is growing the apples.

The Sidra Brut Viuda de Angelón (about $16) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Cider made from 5 varieties of cider apples, though the exact proportions of each will vary some year to year. They have some of their own orchards, which are organic though not certified, and they purchase some apples from other local, organic orchards. Their orchards are quite steep so they must be do all hand harvesting, which is certainly laborious work. They also raise some livestock, including sheep and cows, which graze in the orchard.

Like all of their Sidras, the initial fermentation for the Brut occurs in an open tank and using wild yeasts. The cider will be cold shocked so some residual sugar remains within it, meaning they don't need to add additional sugar for the second fermentation, which occurs in a sealed tank. In addition, before that second fermentation, the cider is matured for about eight months in large chestnut barrels. It is cold shocked for a second time during the second fermentation so a little residual sugar, about 9 grams/liter, remains in the bottle. With a mild sweetness, this bubbly has rich apple flavors and would make a nice summer drink. There isn't much of a history of how well this Brut will age, but James believes it has a good aging potential.

The 1947 Sidra de Neuva Expresion (about $13) is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months!  The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. Some of the vats are stored underground while others are at ground level. The chestnut provides a touch of sweetness to the cider.

How can the cider survive for 12 months in an open vat? First, the cider actually forms a type of flor atop it, like occurs with Sherry, protecting the cider from oxygen and bacteria. In addition, as they use higher acidity apples, that is another element protecting the cider. The cider is unfiltered, unfined and doesn't undergo any cold shock. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings. It has delicious apple flavors, with a lengthy pleasing finish, and was one of my Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

The Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera ($3.50/330ml) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Perry, made from several varieties of pears from their estate. Perry production might extend back to the ancient Romans and was popular in Asturias during the last couple hundred years though mostly it was made by families at home and there was little, if any, commercial production. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank.

This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami. Absolutely delicious, it was also one of my a Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

I had some concerns last week when I read a news article from La Sidra titled "The Spanish administration bans pear cider." The article states "So now this category, pear cider, turns to be illegal and prevents the sale of perry with its own name. In Asturies, as we said, pear cider is a traditional and historical product as apple cider, despite its production and consumption was decreaded lately. Only the cider mill Viuda de Angelón produced this product since 2011 and now it will have to stop its production and distributon of this beverage, while the shops and cider bars can still sell this."

Fortunately, I spoke with James Asbel who soothed my worries, as the La Sidra article apparently wasn't fully accurate. James stated that Spain had only banned the use of the term "sidra" in referring to a "perry." As such, it will have no impact on production and sales, and no impact on Viuda de Angelón's labeling in the U.S. Perry can certainly still be produced in Spain, just as long as you don't try to label it as a sidra. Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, of Viuda de Angelón, has indicated he might decide to change over to the use of perea, the traditional term for Perry.

Raul Riestra, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Guzman Riestra, which was founded back in 1906 by Robustiano Riestra and it eventually was passed on to his daughter, Etelvina Riestra. With her husband, Ricardo Riestra Hortal, they eventually implemented some modern advances. Today, the cidery is in the hands of Raul and Ruben Riestra, the great grandsons of the founder, and Raul, with a business degree, is the chief cider maker.

Raul does not have an oenology degree but has always worked at the family cidery so he has learned everything on the job. Riestra grows some of their own apples and also purchases some. About 40% of their apples are from the local area, 40% are from little further away, and about another 20% come from Normandy, France. The cidery has about 30 vats for their apples, including chestnut, stainless steel and fiberglass. When making Sidra, the same juice goes into 3-4 vats to maintain consistency and they don't fill the vats all the way, allowing room for expansion.

Like Angelón, they conduct open vat fermentations, with wild yeasts. After the October harvest, fermentation can take about six weeks, though during the colder months, fermentation takes longer, and can extend even as long as 9 months. This is not a problem, as it allows them to more evenly spread out their availability. Overall, they produce about 850,000 liters of Sidra annually. Their greatest challenge is trying to press so many apples in such a short time.

The Sidra Natural Riestra (about $9.50/700ml) is a dry, unfiltered Sidra and when you are pouring it into a glass, you hold the bottle high in the area, a practice known as escanciar, which helps to aerate the cider as well as make it fizzier. It possesses a very mild earthiness, with much more rich apple flavors and stronger tannins. It is dry with sour and bitter notes as well as good acidity. This too would be excellent with a variety of food pairings, including cheese. The U.S. imports about 50% of the total production of this Sidra.

The Guzman Riestra Sidra Brut Nature (about $16/750ml) is a sparkling dry Sidra made in the Methode Champenoise. They select 2-3 tanks specifically for this Brut, only the best of their Sidra. It is matured for about 4 months in the tank, is then filtered and fined, before receiving a dosage and undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle. It spends at least four months in the bottle, and usually longer, and is commonly released about five months after disgorgment. The U.S. imports about 30% of the total production of this Brut.

The Brut is clean and dry with moderate bubbles, a mild earthiness, a bright apple flavor, a hint of tropical fruit, and a pleasingly long finish. It has similar tannins to the other Riestra and this could stand up to stronger foods, like cured meats.

Asturian Sidra offers a compelling and more unique flavor profile, with a great sense of history and tradition. And the Sidras in this article, from Ciders of Spain, offer an excellent value as well. A number of local wine and liquor shops now stock these Sidras, and if they don't, you should ask them to carry them.

"Wine is the Georgians’ poetry and their folklore, their religion and their daily bread."
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

When planning for an American wedding, it's commonly suggested that you budget a 1/2 bottle of wine per guest. However, when planning for a Georgian (the country, not the state) wedding, they commonly budget 4 bottles of wine per guest, eight times as much wine as for American weddings. I think I'd rather attend a Georgian wedding.

Georgians drink prodigiously and wine is an integral aspect of their lives. For example, many people grow vines and make wine at home. Historically, many invaders ripped up Georgian vineyards so home owners would try to protect the vines, keeping them in their homes, leading to much home wine making. Like the French, Greeks, and Italians, Georgians also have a spiritual connection to wine, viewing it as far more than just a simple libation.

I've previously written a number of articles about Georgian wine, including Georgian Toast: A Taste of History; Boston Wine Expo: Georgian Toast; Boston Wine Expo: Khareba Winery From Georgia; Bagrationi 1882: Two Georgian Sparkling Wines; and Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia. I strongly believe more people should be drinking Georgian wines and I'm back to highlight more interesting Georgian wines, to give you another reason why you should be exploring the wines. Georgia may be the oldest wine region in the world but it also has a bright future. We just need to educate more consumers about the reasons why they should be drinking Georgian wine.

A media tasting of Georgian wines was recently held at Puritan & Co., led by Taylor Parsons, the sommelier at République in Los Angeles. With 12 years of experience, he is a working sommelier and stated he is not an expert in Georgia wines but visited the region earlier this year. He is approaching these wines as a potential buyer, coming at them with fresh eyes. He began the tasting discussing some of his thoughts and observations about Georgian wines.

Georgians are generally insular when it comes to wine, drinking only Georgian wines and it is hard to find any other wines in their country. There are a number of very large wineries in Georgia, some that may produce as much as 7 million bottles, and plenty of small wineries, making only a few thousand bottles. However, there are only a handful of medium-sized wineries, producing about 40K-60K bottles. With approximately 525 indigenous grapes, Georgians have much to work with though they are intrigued by international grapes as they are relatively new to them.

Unlike winemakers in most wine regions, Georgian winemakers don't talk much about the details of production. They expect their wines to stand on their own, to let their taste speak volumes. There is also little codification of terroir, though that is starting to change. In addition, there is no stratification of young and old vines, and it is rare to find old vines in Georgia. Georgians also do not have a trophy wine culture, so even their best wines are still relatively inexpensive compared to other wine regions. This means you can find some excellent values from this region.

".., their common toast, “Gaumarjos” — which means “To your victory” —"
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring
Qvevri, terracotta pots used for fermentation and aging, are important to many Georgian wine makers. Usually buried in the earth, qvevri are cheap to buy though they must be installed properly, which can add to the cost. Some qvevri are over 100 years old, and Georgians tend not to release wines until they have been aged properly. They are also serious about hygiene, keeping the qvevri very clean. Taylor stated you don't find the usual flaws of some natural wines in Georgian wines. It is intriguing that the source of the clay contributes its own terroir to the wine, with clay from the west side being darker in color, providing a different impact to the wine.

Taylor stated that an important question was how to lead consumers to these different wines, of which they generally do not have a frame of reference. It is an important question for many other niche wines, how to get consumers to take the chance on something different. From my own experiences, getting consumers to taste such wines is an important element in getting them to embrace these wines. They might hesitate to buy these wines on their own, so giving them the opportunity to taste the wines first can go a long way to showing them that they should drink and embrace these wines.

As an aperitif, before the event got started, we tasted the 2013 Lagvinari Tsolikouri, made from the indigenous Tsolikouri grape and which is primarily found in the Imereti region. Lagvinari is a small, organic winery and this wine was fermented in qvevri, wasn't fined or filtered, and is even vegan/vegetarian. With a 11.5% ABV, this is a dry, orange wine with intriguing flavors of bright citrus and apple, with hints of herbs, dried fruit, nuts, and some minerality. Delicious and complex, this was a fine way to begin the tasting event.

Our first flight of wines for the tasting were intended to highlight vindication choices. As you look at the color of wines, you'll note that only one looks like a traditional white wine, the others being orange or cloudy. Georgians like color in their wines, preferring darker reds, but their preference seems to extend to white wines as well. The coloration of these wines can seem strange to the average consumer who is not used to such different wines. If they can be persuaded to taste the wines though, they might be surprised at the fact that they enjoy them. However, they may have to get over their preconceptions over what a white wine should taste like.

The first flight of four wines were all made from the Rkatsiteli grape, an ancient, indigenous white grape, whose name means "red stem," and which is known for its high acidity. It does well with different vinification methods, is generally neutral in flavor and can be reiminscent of Ribolla Gialla. Some Rkatiseli is actually grown in the U.S., including in Massachusetts and New York.

The 2014 Niki Antadze Rkatsiteli is from a tiny winery, founded in 2006 in the Kakheti region, which organically farms about 3 hectares of vineyards, at a high elevation. They also ferment and age their wines in qvevri. This specific wine was fermented without any skin contact and is unfiltered. It possesses an intriguing taste, with notes of citrus, herbal elements and a bready aspect. It has lots of acidity and also seems bright and fresh. This would be a good pairing with seafood.

We then compared that wine with the 2014 Niki Antadze Rkatsiteli which had about six months of  skin contact. It presents a much different palate with notes of black tea, honey, salted nuts, and a floral element. It was recommended that this wine be paired with charcuterie, bacon, and other fatty foods.

The 2014 Our Wine Tsarapi Rkatsiteli is from one of the first Biodynamic wineries in Georgia and is located in the Kakheti region. It is produced from 60+ year old vines (blended with some new vines), fermented in qvevri, and macerated for 6 months. It is smoky and earthy, with an underlying minerality and subtle hints of citrus and pine. A very intriguing wine and one of my favorites of the tasting.

The 2014 Shumi Tsinandali is from a winery, founded in 2001, which is located in the Kakheti region and produces about 1.5 million bottles annually. Tsinandali is a small area within Kakheti and their wines are a blend of Rkatsiteli & Mtsvane, where the Rkatsiteli dominates. Mtsvane means "green." This wine is a blend of 85% Rkatsiteli and 15% Mtsvane, fermented in oak barrels. This is more of an international style wine, presenting as light and crisp, with bright citrus flavors and oaky notes.

The next flight centered on indigenous grapes beyond the two most popular Georgian grapes, Saperavi & Rkatsiteli.

The 2014 Giorgi Revazashvili Chinuri is from an organic winery in the Kartli region. It was mentioned that the term Chinuri means "of China" and might refer to the fact that Georgia was located on the Silk Road. However, other sources state that Chinuri is derived from the word "chinebuli" which means "excellent." This wine is fermented in qvevri and is a cloudy, pale white color. It possessed flavors of passion fruit accented with herbs. This wine is supposed to pair well with vegetables and might benefit from decanting.

The 2015 Pheasant's Tears Tsolikouri is made by a medium-sized organic winery, that produces about 60K bottles annually, and is located in the Imereti region, said to be the oldest wine region in Georgia. The name of the wine derives from an ancient Georgian legend about a wine so delicious that it could make a pheasant cry. This wine was fermented in qvevri with minimal skin maceration. It possesses an intriguing aroma, exotic fruits and herbs, and on the palate, the herbal notes dominate with undertones of exotic fruit and some minerality. A very intriguing wine.

The 2013 Orgo Kisi is from a small, artisan winery located in the Kakheti region. It is a joint endeavor between Gogi Dikishivili, a famous Georgian wine maker, and his son Temur Dakishvili. As Gogi is a pioneer in the revival of the use of qvevri, Orgo uses these earthenware vessels for all of their wines. Many of the grapes they source are from old vines, aged 50-80 years, and few other wineries are able to source such grapes. This wine is made from Kisi grapes from 50 year old vines, and was fermented and aged in qvevri for 6 months with skin contact for the entire time. Native yeasts are used, the wine is unfiltered and it possesses low sulfites. This was a delicious and aromatic wine, with an interesting and complex combination of black tea and ripe pear notes, with subtle hints of tropical fruit. Another of my favorite wines of this tasting.

The next flight were red wines, a comparison of west and east. The 2014 Amiran Otskhanuri Sapere is from a small winery in the Imereti region. The Otskhanuri Sapere grape is one of the oldest indigenous grape varieties in Georgia and its name means "Otskhana's colorful," related to the village of Otskhana. This grape is rare and Amiran has the largest contiguous plot of vineyards in Georgia. This wine was fermented on the skins in qvevri without added yeast and aged for 9 months. This was an impressive wine with an aroma of smoke and black fruit. The palate presented high acidity, delicious red and black fruit flavors, moderate tannins and a smoky finish, reminding me a little of Nebbiolo. Nicely balanced, with a lengthy finish, this was another of my favorites of the tasting.

The 2014 Kindzmarauli Marani Kindzmarauli Original is from a large winery in the Kakheti region. This off dry wine is made from the Saperavi grape and is smooth, lightly sweet and fruit with enough acidity to balance the sweetness. It is said to work well with food that possesses bitter flavors, and also be an excellent red wine for chocolate cake.

The final flight of four wines highlighted the Saperavi grape, the main red grape of Georgia, which is sometimes compared to Nebbiolo, possessing a good synergy of acidity and tannins. Saperavi is also commonly described as brambly and rustic.

We began with the 2012 Jakeli, Saperavi, which I have enjoyed before. Check out my prior review and I'll note that I highly recommend it.

The 2014 Orgo Saperavi 2014 is another wine which I have enjoyed before. Check out my prior review and I'll note that I also highly recommended this wine. 

The 2015 Pheasant's Tears Saperavi was brambly and earthy, with lush black fruit flavors but also a green vegetal taste that is not my preferred style. In some ways, it reminded me of some Cabernet Francs, and if you enjoy those type of wines, you would enjoy this one.

The 2013 Tbilvino Saperavi is from a large winery located in the Kakheti region. This wine spent four days on the skin before being pressed off to finish fermentation, and then underwent a secondary malolactic fermentation. It has been vinified in more of an international style and presents with rich red fruits, especially cherry, notes of vanilla and spice. It is more smooth and pleasant, without any rustic aspects.

I continue to highly recommend that you check out the wines of Georgia. Expand your palate and be open to the different wines this country produces.

Numerous consumers seem to believe that Argentina is primarily the place for inexpensive and delicious Malbec wines. When I see them at the wine shop, they most often ask for Malbec from Argentina, and not other varietals like Torrontes or Cabernet Sauvignon. Most often, they seek Malbecs costing $15 and under, though we have a fair share that will spend up to $25 for a better bottling. It is very rare that they come in seeking a high-end Malbec, or any high-end wine from Argentina.

I've traveled to Argentina, met numerous wine makers and winery owners, and tasted many of their wines. It was a fantastic trip, from great food to beautiful views, from compelling wines to interesting people. More people need to understand that Argentina is much more than inexpensive Malbec. Terroir is becoming more and more of an important concern in Argentina. They are paying careful attention to soil, altitude, microclimates, viticulture, and much more. Wine makers are trying to make more wines reflective of place, and they are succeeding.

At a recent media lunch at Mooo Restaurant, all of these issues once more rose to the surface as I dined with Jose Galante, Chief Winemaker at Bodegas Salentein, and Matías Bauzá Moreno, the Senior Brand and PR Manager for Salentein. Matias has worked for Salentein for about 13 years. In the photo above, Jose is on the left and Matias is on the right. Both men were very knowledgeable, had a clear passion for wine, and were excellent spokespeople for the wines of Argentina, as well as their own winery.

Bodegas Salentein is located in the Valle de Uco, the Uco Valley, a region to the southwest of Mendoza. It is considered one of the prime spots for quality vineyards in all of Argentina. The Uco Valley consists of about 75,000 hectares, with about one-third covered in vineyards, and the region produces about 6%-7% of all Argentina wines. In the future, the Uco Valley region may be broken down into smaller, distinctive regions, to better showcase specific terroirs.

The former owner of Salentein, who passed away a few months ago, was Mijndert Pon, who once worked in the family business of importing Volkswagens into the Netherlands. After retiring, Mijndert decided to sail around the world, but that dream ended near the Panama Canal. Afterwards, in 1992, Mijndert, at age 68, decided to purchase what would become the Salentein farm in Uco Valley.

He named the estate after his family farm back in the Netherlands. The property has historical roots, and one part of the estate was where Jesuits once made wine in the 17th century. At first, Mijndert just wanted to grow grapes, but it didn't take long for him to feel the desire to produce wine too, and his first vintage was in 1999. Currently, the Salentein estate consists of about 5,000 acres, with about 1700 aces being farmed.  

Jose Galante is relatively new to Salentein, as this has been only his fourth vintage, and he previously worked for about 34 years at Bodegas Catena Zapata, which is an admirable resume. Catena has long been on the cutting edge of vinous research in Argentina, so I'm sure Jose possesses great experience. In addition, his grandfather, who was from Italy, worked in a winery as did his father. Seems that wine is in his blood, and in addition, Jose spent about ten years teaching at a university. Upon moving to Salentein, Jose brought his lengthy experience and wine making philosophy with him, leading to some changes in the wines that have been made. To Jose, wine making is simply his way of life, and he wouldn't have it any other way.  

The prior winemaker at Salentein produced wines in a more classical wine style, while Jose chooses to use less oak and a less aggressive maceration. Barrels are now toasted in a more Burgundian style rather than a more aggressive Bordeaux style. In addition, Jose frequently tastes the wines in the barrels to assess when they need to be taken out of the barrels, trying to prevent issues with too much oak maturation.

He believes that the Uco Valley is the best region of all of Argentina, with plenty of high altitude vineyards. Those altitudes are very important, and the higher the altitude, the earlier the harvest, sometimes even by as much as an entire month. Different altitudes will also present different flavor profiles. For example, consider how altitude can affect Chardonnay. At low altitudes, you'll find more tropical fruit flavors while at medium altitudes, you'll get more apple and pear. And at high altitudes, you'll get a leaner wine with more mineral notes.

One of the most important keys to the region is acidity. The Uco Valley bring out acidity very well in wine, and there is no need to correct its acidity as you sometimes have to do in other regions. Jose believes that altitude may be a prime component in acidity. Acidity helps to make wines more food friendly.

Jose feels that the most important challenge he faces is to show all of the potential of Uco Valley, to make wines that reflect the terroir of their estate. They are still evaluating their soils, trying to determine the best areas for each type of grape. They never stop learning. Jose also wants use more restrained use of oak to showcase the flavors of the wine rather than overpower it. He doesn't want the oak to hide the terroir. In addition, he loves to visit the vineyards, taste the grapes, and feel closer to the land. He understands the importance of winemakers getting into the vineyards, to better understand how it will affect their wine making.

Vintage variation is not too great, though Jose stated that 2013 was one of their best vintages. As for the 2014 vintage, it had more rain and some issues at the end of the vintage. Despite that, Malbec did very well and Sauvignon Blanc was more mineral, though Cabernet Sauvignon suffered some. Most of the wines we  tasted were from 2012.

We began our lunch with the 2012 Kilka Torrontes ($14.99), which receives its name from an aboriginal world that means "opening" or "gateway." Jose stated that classical Torrontes possesses a bitter finish but this wine is intended to be different. Instead, it is easy to drink, a crisp and clean wine, with plenty of bright citrus flavors. It is very food friendly and elegant, lacking any bitterness on the finish. Pair with seafood, salads, and light chicken dishes. An excellent white wine choice.

Our first courses was a salad of roasted baby beets, goat cheese; and mache, topped by an apple cider & balsamic vinaigrette. With this course, we enjoyed a 2012 Chardonnay Reserve ($18.99), from medium altitude vineyards. With a pleasant aroma, it possessed tasty flavors of green apple and pear with a hint of smoke. It had a richer mouthfeel, partially due to having spent time on the lees and a partial malolactic fermentation. This white wine was also crisp and clean, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Another food friendly wine too.

Our main course was a choice of swordfish or beef, and I opted for the Broiled Petite Filet Mignon with horseradish whipped potato, green beans, marrow toast, & red wine jus. Matias though chose the swordfish, noting that he believes it pairs well with Malbec. That is a pairing I;ll have to try some time.

The 2012 Malbec Reserve ($18.99), made from 100% Malbec, is aged for about 12 months in French oak and spends another 6 months in the bottle before release. With a dark red color,it had an interesting nose of black fruit and spice. On the palate, there were tasty flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and blackberry with a spicy backbone and a lingering finish. There was a nice depth of flavor to this wine, with moderate tannins and good acidity. A good steak wine. This wine is going to please all those Malbec lovers out there.

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($18.99), made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, is aged for about 12 months in oak, 90% French and 10% American. There was a certain elegance to this wine, with ripe black fruit flavors and plenty of spice notes. It possessed moderate tannins, nice complexity and a pleasing finish. My personal preference of these two wines was for the Malbec, which I felt might have possessed a greater depth of flavor, but both were very good wines.

The 2012 Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Each varietal is vinified separately and then is aged separately in the barrel for about 6 months. Afterwards, the grapes are mixed and then spend an additional ten months in the barrel. The term "numina" means "spirit." Until 2007, this wine used to be a Malbec/Merlot blend but Jose brought changes to the cepage.

Jose feels that it is more exciting to make a blend rather than a single varietal, a sentiment I have heard before from other winemakers from Argentina.. I found this to be a fascinating wine, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip. An impressive and highly recommended wine.

The 2010 Primum Malbec ($65) is produced from 100% Malbec, 40% of the grapes from a high altitude vineyard, and it was aged for about 18 months in the barrel. This was such an elegant and delicious wine. Lots of violet and floral aroma, and a palate of cherry and plum flavors, with mild spicy accents, nice acidity, a touch of minerality and silky tannins. Another beautiful wine to slowly savor, with or without food. It well shows the potential of high-end Malbec, and is the type of high quality wine consumers need to understand can be produced from Malbec. Highly recommended.

All of these wines are now available throughout the U.S., and including in Massachusetts, So you have no excuse not to seek them out.