The Passionate Foodie: salem

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Tuesday, August 13, 2024

Hummingbird Muffins: Some History & Lulu's Bakery

While perusing the offerings at Lulu's Bakery & Pantry in Salem (one of my favorite bakeries), I saw a small sign stating "Hummingbird Muffins." That's the first time I've seen them at the bakery. I was unfamiliar with the term but the sign stated the muffins were made with pecans, bananas, pineapple and coconut. That greatly appealed to me so I bought a few of the muffins to take home.

When I got home, I also did some online searching, to learn more about "Hummingbird Muffins," and the results were quite intriguing. The Hummingbird Cake originated on Jamaica, where it was caused the Doctor Bird Cake. The Doctor Bird, a nickname for the swallow-tail hummingbird, is endemic to Jamaica and is also their National Bird. Why it's called the Doctor Bird is unknown. In addition, why the cake was called Doctor Bird Cake is also unknown.

Around 1968, the Jamaica Tourist Board exported the recipe for Doctor Bird Cake to the United States, and it soon became popular, especially in the South. Basically, it's a banana-pineapple spice cake, and the more modern recipes commonly top it with a cream cheese frosting although the original recipes did not call for any type of frosting.

The first printed recipe I found in the newspapers for Doctor Bird Cake was in The News (NJ), March 19, 1969. It was referred to as a Banana-Pineapple Cake, and noted the recipe was named after a hummingbird in Jamaica. It did not include any type of frosting. This same recipe would be repeated in numerous newspapers over the next 15 years, and beyond, including in North Carolina, Mississippi, Missouri, South Carolina, Illinois, Pennsylvania, Ohio, NY, Vermont, Texas, and Alabama. This can be seen as the traditional recipe for this cake.

The first appearance of the term "Hummingbird Cake" was in an advertisement in 1972, only three years after the first appearance of "Doctor Bird Cake." Miss Hulling's mentioned that their bakery offered "Hummingbird Cake" for $2.85. With all the multiple mentions of Doctor Bird Cake at this period, it's clear that "Hummingbird Cake" had been adopted by some people although the reason for the name change is unclear. Maybe they felt "hummingbird" sounded more appealing than "doctor bird."

The Star-Herald (MS), June 1, 1972, published the above recipe for Hummingbird Cake, which contained the first significant differences in the traditional recipe. First, this recipe added a 1/2 cup of pecans. A number of later recipes would also call for pecans, or walnuts. Second, this recipe was the first to include a glaze to top the cake. The glaze was made from confectioners sugar, oleo, and pineapple or orange juice.

The Advocate Messenger (KY), December 22, 1974, then offered the first recipe with a cream cheese frosting. This would eventually become the norm, even though the original recipe didn't call for any type of frosting at all.

The Herald (SC), July 30, 1975, provided a slightly different recipe for Doctor Bird Cake, with a main difference of adding a cup of chopped nuts. Again, there was no frosting on the cake. It's interesting that the recipes for "Hummingbird Cake" were the first to alter the traditional recipe.

The Orlando Sentinel (FL), November 8, 1975, also provide a variation of the Doctor Bird Cake recipe, adding chopped pecans as well as 1/2 cup of candied cherries.

Frosting appears! The Times-News (ID), April 26, 1976, provided a usual recipe for Doctor Bird Cake, except it added information for a cream cheese icing. However, into the early 1980s, other Doctor Bird recipes in other newspapers didn't include the use of a frosting. It took time for the frosting to be more commonly adopted by others.

The Kingsport Times (TN), January 23, 1978, had a recipe with a Glaze for Doctor Bird Cake, made from pineapple juice, melted butter and confectioner's sugar.

As for "Hummingbird Muffins," one of the first mentions was in the Asheville Citizen-Times, October 1, 1987. In a review of a restaurant and bakery, there was a mention of hummingbird muffins, made with banana, pineapple and walnuts.

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As for Lulu's Hummingbird Muffins, their addition of coconut is not traditional, however it's a natural pairing for pineapple and banana. The muffin seemed heavy but that's not a negative, especially as it was quite moist, especially with the addition of the pineapple. It was delicious, with a nice blend of fruits and spices, and the added texture and taste of the pecans. The muffin was sweet, but not overly so, and the flavors were well balanced. I greatly enjoyed the muffins, and would definitely buy them again at Lulu's Bakery. Highly recommended!

And if you visit Lulu's Bakery, you also have to get some of their superb Whoopie Pies!

Friday, April 8, 2022

Lulu's Bakery & Pantry: A Scrumptious Salem Site

Corn bread and cupcakes, biscuits and croissants, chocolate desserts and pepperoni rolls, an epic Whoopie Pie, and so much more!

In February, Lulu’s Bakery and Pantry opened at 285 Derby Street in Salem, close to Pickering Wharf, and it's open every day from 7am-7pm. This new bakery is owned by Nikki and Jim Economides, both who have been involved in the food and restaurant industry for many years. I was initially invited to visit the bakery as a media guest, and I've also returned two more times to buy and taste more of their baked goods and desserts. I plan to return there often as I've impressed with their delicious products.

Nikki is originally from West Virginia, and the bakery pays homage to her roots in a number of ways, while Jim is from Ipswich. Nikki graduated from Johnson & Wales, worked for the Finale Restaurant Group, and eventually launched her own confectionary, Fixx Chocolates. Jim graduated from the New England Culinary Institute, worked at a number of Boston area restaurants, and co-founded the All Star Sandwich Bar.

Nikki and Jim initially wanted to open a candy shop, to sell the Fixx chocolates, but that concept evolved over time, as they decided to enlarge the scope of their endeavor. Around 2019, they opted to open a bakery and as they worked toward that goal, the pandemic struck, causing all sorts of difficulty. They persevered though, battling the significant obstacles that arose, trying to make their dreams a reality. In January 2021, they finally found the Salem location, and decided that it would fit all their needs.

The location required plenty of work to make it business ready, and Nikki and Jim ended up doing a significant amount of work on their own, from painting to laying down the floor. High construction costs and the unavailability of contractors were still obstacles they had to overcome. They had originally hoped to open prior to Thanksgiving, but were delayed until this past February. Opening any food service business during the pandemic is a risky proposition, but Nikki and Jim wanted to see their dream come true.

On my first visit to the bakery, I spoke with Nikki and found her to be personable, passionate and down-to-earth. I've also met Jim and he seems just as nice. Nikki grew up on farms in West Virginia, and there are numerous aspects of the bakery which pay homage to these roots, from pepperoni rolls to the decor. Some of those touches are more subtle, but add to the overall ambience. Nikki's objective with the bakery was to make it a comfortable and approachable place, less fancy than the former Finale's Desserterie.

All of the recipes in the bakery are Nikki's, some inspired by recipes from her grandmother. Nikki has a myriad of new baked goods and desserts, such as more cakes with a Southern influence, she wants to create and try out, but she's had to restrain her desires a bit. As they have only been open a couple months, adding many more items to their menu would make it tough on the staff, who would have to learn how to prepare all of those new items. It's still too soon to add too many new products, so, additional items will be added, but more slowly over time, to ease the learning curve for her staff.

If you examine their displays, you'll find they already offer a wide variety of items, so there's no immediate need to add a large number of additional items. Everyone who stops at the bakery should find plenty of tempting treats. Your biggest problem might be trying to decide which items to buy, but that just means you'll need to return to buy different items on future trips. I'll also note that if you purchase 6 or more items, you get a discount of 10% off your order. And it's easy to find six items you'll want to try.

Have you ever had a Pepperoni Roll? It's an iconic West Virginia food, available in nearly every gas station and convenience store in West Virginia. It's alleged that the pepperoni roll was invented by Giuseppe Argiro at the Country Club Bakery in Fairmont, West Virginia, in 1927. They became a common lunch option for coal-miners, especially as they didn't require refrigeration. It's a relatively simple dish, a soft roll with a layer of pepperoni baked inside. They are usually eaten as is, although sometimes they are topped with a tomato sauce with roasted peppers.

The bakery sells Pepperoni Rolls, Pepperoni & Cheese Rolls, and Vegetarian Rolls ($1.95 each). I've tasted the first two, and enjoyed the soft, fresh rolls and the thin layer of slightly spicy pepperoni, with some of the oil soaked into the interior of the bread. They are fine as is, although I've also warmed them up and that's tasty as well. A very good value for a easy snack.

Corn bread and Biscuits! The Corn Bread is made with creamed corn and cheddar, and is a little sweeter than many other Southern versions. I found it very moist, with little pieces of corn adding a nice textural element, and it wasn't overly sweet. It had a rich corn flavor, and adding some butter atop it was absolutely delicious. I've gotten some corn bread on each of my visits.

The Biscuits are light and fluffy, and not as brittle as some biscuits, so they should hold up better in their Biscuit sandwiches. A Biscuit can be ordered with Lulu's Jam, Honey & Sea Salt, Apple Butter or Molasses Butter. The Apple Butter, which is made on the premises (and can be purchased by the jar), was an excellent topping for a Biscuit, with a rich apple flavor and a balanced sweetness.

They also sell Biscuit Egg Sandwiches, starting at $4, and to which you can add meat, cheeses, and/or veggies. If you don't want a biscuit, they have other bread options like a croissant, hot roll, wheat bread, or crusty sourdough. Other breakfast options include a Yogurt Bowl and Oatmeal.

Their Cinnamon Rolls are based on a recipe from Nikki's grandmother, and they have that home-made vibe. With lots of cinnamon, a soft roll, and a creamy frosting, it's all well-balanced and delicious, especially when warmed. These are a fine comfort treat, perfect for breakfast or an after-dinner snack.

I was thoroughly impressed with their Whoopie Pies, one of the best I've ever tasted. The chocolate was essentially a moist and rich brownie, a great choice. The creamy filling was also quite tasty, not overly sweet, and well complemented the taste of the brownie. It's very large as well, big enough that two people could easily share it, unless one person was especially hungry. I can't wait to return to buy more Whoopie Pies. Highly recommended!

They sell a variety of Muffins, such as Blueberry Crumble, Apricot Ginger and Banana Nut.

There's also numerous Cookies available, including Chocolate Chip, Oatmeal Raisin, Peanut Butter, Double Chocolate, and Butter Pecan. The types of muffins and cookies that are available are likely to change day to day, dependent on ingredient availability and seasonality.

For example, check out these Shamrock Sugar Cookies for St. Patrick's Day.

A couple varieties of Scones: Roasted Pepper & Feta and Mixed Berry & Chocolate Chip. These aren't the usual type of scones you find at many other bakeries.

Croissants and Fruit Tarts. They also sell some other breads, including Whole Wheat Loaf, Sourdough Loaf, Hot Rolls, and Gluten-Free Focacia Rolls. The Sourdough is an excellent choice, with large slices with a crusty exterior and soft, flavorful interior. Great for toast or sandwiches, and I used a couple slices for a cheeseburger. I definitely will be buying more sourdough in the near future.

The Macaroons are either covered with milk chocolate or dark chocolate, and my preference is dark chocolate. The moist, coconut-rich macaroons were enhanced by the dark chocolate, with its slight bitter edge counteracting the sweetness of the coconut.

The case of chocolate and other desserts is visually appealing, offering much more to tempt your palate, such as the chocolate Indulgence cake. They also make cakes and cupcakes to order, and have even recently created a wedding cake for a customer. Need a birthday cake? Consider ordering one here.

Individual Chocolate Cream and Creme Brulee. If you're making dinner at home, you could pick up some of these for dessert.

Coconut Creme. This is one of the items I'll order on my new visit.

They sell a variety of Cupcakes, including a selection of Vegan ones.

Fruit Tarts and individual chocolate Indulgences.

You can buy jars of their Butters and Jellies, including their Hot Pepper Butter, which in West Virginia is often used as a spread on sandwiches.

Some of Nikki's Fixx chocolates are also available. In general, her Fixx chocolates business has been largely on pause as they establish the new bakery.

As I mentioned, there are numerous nods to West Virginia at the bakery, including their Potato Chips. They sell Mister Bee Potato Chips, which are made in from West Virginia. Local people may not be familiar with this brand, and may not realize their origin.

For lunch or dinner, you can also order a variety of Sandwiches, generally either half or full-sized, and priced from $4-$9.50. Some of the options include Tuna Salad, Hot Dog, PB&J, Ham & Cheese, and Falafel Burger. There are also Salads, Soups, and Sides. Their Chili is based on a recipe from Nikki's grandmother, although with some changes. For example, her grandmother's chili used venison and didn't have beans. Nikki doesn't use venison and does add beans.

There's also a lengthy list of Drinks available, from various kinds of Coffee to Tea, Hot Chocolate to Juice. Their unsweetened Iced Tea is very good.

Against the front windows is a wooden pew, in front of a couple tables, and that pew actually came from a church in West Virginia.

On the back wall are a number of cooking pans, including some family pans from West Virginia. It's cool to see all of these subtle nods to Nikki's heritage, and it adds to the homey vibe of the bakery.

Nikki's sister sells painted shells, which are displayed at the bakery. You can also buy a Lulu's Bakery t-shirt.

In addition, they sell Roughly a Cup, by Aunt Chelle, which is their family cookbook.

The bakery has been busy since its opening, and they have already been receiving catering orders. Their current top three best sellers have been Biscuits, Fruit Twists, and the Everything Bagel Croissant (available only on the weekend). They have also been selling many cupcakes, and recently added vegan cupcakes to their line-up. On all my visits, the bakery was doing a very steady business. It's easy to understand all their customers due to the quality of their food.

Overall, I'm very impressed with Lulu’s Bakery and Pantry, and each visit I've tried something new, as well as buying some favorites. Their food is fresh, often amply sized, visually appealing, and delicious. I love all the nods to Nikki's West Virginia background, and that adds a unique flair to the bakery. The bakery is dynamic, adding new items on a regular basis, and it will be fascinating to watch its slow evolution. This bakery will be a regular stop for me anytime I'm in the Salem area, and I highly recommend that my readers check it out as well.

Monday, March 28, 2022

Bambolina & Kokeshi in Salem: A Quick Review

On Derby Street in Salem, two restaurants, Bambolina and Kokeshi. under the same ownership, currently share space in the same location. Bambolina opened in 2015 while Kokeshi opened in 2017, although at a different location in Salem. At some point during the pandemic, they merged together, presenting an intriguing option for diners, Italian cuisine & pizza as well as Asian cuisine, including ramen.

The Bambolina menu is relatively small, with Antipasto (8 choices, priced $8-$24, such as a Cheese Board, Charcuterie, Marinated Feta, and Grilled Caesar Salad), Neapolitan Pizza (8 choices, priced $12.50-$17.50) and three Pasta Dishes (about $19 each, including Fettuccine Bolognese, Mushroom Fettuccine, and Rigatoni Arrabiata).

They imported a wood-burning stove from Italy, which cooks their pizzas at 925 degrees, so it takes only 90 seconds to finish. They use Italian "00" flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and fresh mozzarella, as well as any other ingredients that you order for your pizza. You can order a variety of pizzaz such as the Pastrami & Potato, Forest Mushroom, Hot Pepper & Pepperoni, and Margherita.

Kokeshi doesn't serve traditional Asian cuisine, but rather takes a more creative approach, although still paying respect to the foundation of the Asian dishes. As one example of their creativity, in the past, they used to sell Octopus Hotdogs. Some of their Ramen dishes use nontraditional ingredients, but they still attempt to be respectful to Asian culinary traditions.

The Kokeshi menu is also relatively small with 6 Starters (priced $5-$9, such as Tamari Marinated Cucumbers and Edamame), 6 Noodles (priced $16-$17, such as Back Alley Bacon Ramen and Vietnamese Noodles), Ahi Tuna Poke ($19), and Crispy Chicken Sandwich ($14).

Even though both menus are relatively small, there's still plenty of choices which will interest diners. And as I've mentioned before, smaller restaurants menus are generally better than massive tomes, and their ingredients may be fresher as well.

Last week, while visiting Salem, I decided to have lunch at Bambolina & Kokeshi, my first time dining at these restaurants. I was intrigued by the idea of being able to sample both menus, and there was plenty on those menus which appealed to me.

I began with the Chicken & Lemongrass Dumplings ($9), which have sweet chili sauce, scallions, and sesame. The fried dumplings had a nice crunchy exterior, and the filling was tasty and flavorful, enhanced by the slight heat and mild sweetness of the sauce. They also had an appealing aroma, enhanced bt the lemongrass. A nice way to start my lunch and I'd definitely order them again.

Of course I had to order a pizza, opting for the Soppressata ($16.50), with crushed tomato, fresh mozzarella, Italian cured salami, fresh oregano, and pecorino tomato. A beautiful pizza, with a nice char to the crust, it was also delicious. The crust was thin, but not overly so, and as it thickened near the edges, it had a nice chewy texture to it. The toppings were tasty, with thin and flavorful slices, with crispy edges, of the salami. Definitely an excellent Neapolitan pizza and highly recommended.

I also opted for the Col. Sanders Ramen ($16), made with a spicy pork broth, fried chicken, Tokyo wavy noodle, corn, wakame, Vermont butter, and scallions. The broth was spicy with a nice depth of flavor, and the fried chicken had a crunchy coating and was moist and tender inside. The noodles were cooked just right, with a nice firm texture, and there was a light sweetness to the dish with the corn and butter. It was an ample dish, full of flavor, and very pleasing. Another dish I'd highly recommend.

First impressions can sometimes make a big difference, and my first experience at Bambolina and Kokeshi was extremely positive. I'll be returning again soon to try more dishes on their menu, and expect they will probably be as delicious too. Service was very good as well. I strongly recommend my readers dine here as well.

I'll also note that one of the owners, Larry Lebowittz, will soon open Common Craft, a craft beverage spot and restaurant, at the Burlington Mall. I've seen the preliminary menu and it looks intriguing. Based on the quality of Bambolina and Kokeshi, I have high hopes for the food at Common Craft as well.

Wednesday, December 19, 2018

2018: Favorite Restaurants & Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted my three Top Wine lists, my Favorite Wine-Related Items, and my Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes, and now I want to address my Favorite Restaurants of the past year as well as some of my other Favorite Food-Related Items

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable restaurants and food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Hot New Restaurants: This category includes several restaurants that have opened in the last few months, which have already impressed me, but which I haven't yet written a review. In early 2019, I'll likely review these worthy restaurants (after additional visits).
Tonno in Wakefield: This is the second location of Chef Anthony Caturano's Italian Seafood restaurant. I eagerly anticipated its opening and it easily lives up to my high expectations.
Kamakura in Boston: Chef Youji Iwakura has brought Japanese Kaiseki cuisine to Boston and the restaurant is aesthetically cool and the food is killer.
Feng Shui in Burlington: The sixth location of this Chinese restaurant opened near the Burlington Mall and their lunch buffet is compelling, and their cocktails are quite good.
Home Taste in Arlington: A second location of this Chinese restaurant, they specialize in delicious hand-pulled noodles. hand-made dumplings, Chinese casseroles and more.
Aaron's Taco Cart'el in Stoneham: A small, casual and tasty spot for tacos, burritos and nachos, where customization rules.

Favorite New Haitian/Dominican Restaurant: From delightfully flaky Paté to Jerk Beef Sliders, from savory Griot to a Cream Corn Souffle, Infused Kreyol in Malden is making delicious and compelling food. It's a tiny spot that once was home to a bakery but it's well worth seeking out. This isn't a cuisine you often see in the Malden+ area and thus there was a need for such a restaurant. Prices are very reasonable, service is usually very good, and the freshness of their dishes is impressive. And their Paté was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Suburban Italian Restaurant: Il Casale, with locations in Belmont and Lexington, is killing it, especially with their wine dinners. Such professional service, exquisite food, and interesting drinks, from wine to cocktails. Their popularity, judged by how they can sell out an entire restaurant for a wine dinner when most other places are lucky to fill a table or two, is indicative of how well they are received in their community. And their Ragu Bianco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite South American Restaurant: In Watertown, the former owners the famed Cambridge restaurant Salts, have started a new restaurant, La Bodega By Salts, which reflects owner Analia Verolo's homeland of Uruguay. Much of the menu consists of small plates, a great way to experience a number of dishes, which either have Uruguayan or Spanish roots. The food is fantastic, the wine list has plenty of Uruguayan wines, and their cocktails are stellar. Service is excellent and the restaurant itself is cool, especially where they have reused an old railroad car. And their Chivito was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: Chef Chris Chung is rocking it in Inman Square in Cambridge at Momi Nonmi, a casual Japanese izakaya with some Hawaiian influence. The food is amazing, with ingredients that are fresh and high quality, including rarities not commonly found in the area. The cuisine is also inventive and innovative, with plenty of special dinner events. Chef Chung's culinary skills are top notch. They also have an impressive Sake, Shochu and cocktail program. Again, this is another small restaurant but one you should not miss. And their Teppanyaki Loco Moco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Tasting Menu: Around since 2016, The Table at Season To Taste, located in North Cambridge, offers a four-course tasting menu each evening which changes every 4-6 weeks. You have two options for each course and the food is delicious and inventive, supported by an excellent wine program. It is a small and cozy restaurant, with an open kitchen, and you receive very professional service. And their Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Brunch: At Ledger Restaurant & Bar, in Salem, they have an excellent Brunch Menu, from a 22-ounce Bloody Mary to their home-made Donuts, from Eggs Benedict to Banana Bread. Excellent service, a patio during the summer, and a menu of enticing dishes. Have a breakfast dish or a more lunch dish, such as a Fried Chicken Thigh Sandwich or a Breakfast Burger. And their Chicken & Waffles was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Fusion Cuisine: Though it was only available for several days around Cinco de Mayo, the "Grexico" menu, a combination of Mexican and Greek cuisine, at Committee was fusion cuisine at its best. The various dishes seamlessly blended ingredients from both cuisines, creating delicious and inventive dishes that thoroughly impressed me. Grecomole, Guajillo Hummus, Churros with Merenda, and much more. I hope they will hold this event again in 2019, and I could easily see this fusion cuisine centering a new restaurant. And their Lamb Barbacoa Tacos was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Chef's Return: Famed Chef Marisa Iocco returned to Spiga in Needham, transforming their Italian menu but maintaining some of his well-known specialties. You'll find dishes like Guazzetti, a unique Italian stew and Spiga might be the only local restaurant serving this item. Their Pizza is excellent and their Pasta dishes are killer. A cozy spot, it is open for lunch and dinner, and is worth the journey to Needham. And their Timballo was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Restaurant Dessert: After enjoying the savory options from Chef Marisa Iocco at Spiga, you can peruse their Dessert menu but I think your best option is her famed Bread Pudding, which I first enjoyed several years ago. I've even recommended people start their meal with the Bread Pudding so you ensure you aren't too full after dinner to enjoy it. Every spoonful is absolutely delicious, a hedonistic treat which I cannot recommend enough. Great texture to the bread, a nice blend of sweet and salty in the sauce, and nice hints of vanilla. We really need a bakery that specializes in Bread Pudding.

Favorite Hidden Restaurant City: Malden has plenty of interesting restaurants, especially Asian ones, but you wouldn't suspect that some fascinating dishes are "hidden" within rather ordinary appearing spots. From its storefront, you'd think Classic Pizza is your typical pizza and sub shop however they also have a small, but delicious menu of Indian dishes, including a killer Chicken Tikka Masala. Jay's Pizza also appears to be a normal pizza and sub joint, but they also sell Nepalese Momos, dumplings. In 2019, I'll be checking out other pizza joints in Malden to see if any others are hiding more unique and tasty dishes.

Favorite Food Book: Written by Gabriella Opaz & Sonia Andersson Nolasco, with photography by Ryan Opaz, the compelling Porto: Stories From Portugal's Historic The Bolhão Market succeeds on many levels. It discusses the history of Portuguese cuisine while also telling intimate stories of the various vendors at the Bolhão Market. This is not some dry travelogue but rather a seductive lure intended to convert you into a culinary lover of northern Portugal. It will work well as a reference guide as well, something to turn to from time to time to better understand Portuguese cuisine. Highly recommended.

Favorite Culinary School: NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, having recently celebrated its 5th Anniversary. I continue to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand.

Favorite Food Trade Event: Once again, I have selected the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. The Seafood Show is an engaging event and you can read my latest articles here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3. The Seafood Show is compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next SENA in March 2019. Hope to see you there too.

Favorite Food History Article: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, "Water Doughnuts": Some Bagel History. I found numerous fascinating newspaper articles, dating back as far as 1930, about bagels. There were Recipes for making bagels at home, information about various flavored bagels, canned bagels, pizza bagels and more. More writers need to use old newspaper archives in their research as you never know what intriguing information you will find.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

Tuesday, December 18, 2018

2018: Top Ten Restaurant Dishes

What were some of my favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted three Top Wine lists and my Favorite Wine-Related Items. Now I want to move onto food and showcase my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of the past year.

This list includes ten dishes which I not only enjoyed immensely, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious or something more unique, but all stand out for some particular reason, above the other dishes I have tasted this past year. These are the type of dishes I would order again and again, and which I would highly recommend. And I'll note that all of these restaurants are located in Massachusetts.

This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable dishes I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. It is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This list is not in any order of preference, so all receive equal accolades. For more of my favorite restaurant dishes, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Ragu Bianco at Il Casale (Belmont)
At a San Felice wine dinner, I was thoroughly impressed with their Fusilli fatti in casa con ragù "bianco" di carne e salamino di cinghiale (Handmade fusilli with "white" meat ragù and diced wild boar salami). This "ragu bianco" is traditional mostly in northern Italy, including Tuscany, and it is made with cream rather than tomatoes. This was simply a perfect dish, with homemade pasta cooked just right, plenty of savory and tender meat, a touch of earthiness, and a cream sauce that added plenty of flavor. The sauce was neither cloying or overly heavy, and I could easily have devoured a couple more plates. It is rare to see a ragu bianco at local restaurants, and that really needs to change if this dish is an example of what can be created. The Chef even provided me a copy of the Recipe, and we've made it at home successfully.

Paté at Infused Kreyol (Malden)
Infused Kreyol serves Haitian and Dominican dishes and one of their Small Bites is the Paté, a flaky pastry filled with shredded chicken, ground beef, cod fish or veggie. I've tasted three of the four, excluding the veggie, and loved them! They are made fresh each day, and the pastry is light, flaky and buttery, exactly what you want it to be. The ample fillings have intense and tasty flavors, spiced well. And at only $2.50 each, they are a great value too. The Paté are kept near the register to it is easy to stop by and pick up a few to enjoy at home.

Shrimp Marsala at Island Creek Oyster Bar (Burlington)
This compelling dish is made with Casarecce pasta, roasted mushrooms, and Marsala cream. As I love a good Marsala sauce, I knew I had to try this dish and it was absolutely delicious, a rich dish which was well balanced, the key to the dish's success. The creamy Marsala sauce wasn't overly sweet and the pasta, cooked perfectly, and was an excellent vessel for the sauce. The plump shrimp, coated with the creamy Marsala, were exquisite and the roasted mushrooms added some earthiness and umami to the dish. It was comfort food, a hearty portion of Sicilian-inspired seafood.

Lamb Barbacoa Tacos at Committee (Boston)
To honor Cinco de Mayo, Committee created a special "Grexico" menu, fusing Greek and Mexican cuisines. My favorite dish of the evening were the Lamb Barbacoa Tacos, made with braised lamb, tzatziki, and Fix beer (a Greek beer) guajillo, atop grape leaf-corn tortillas. Grape leaves were crumbled into the mixture of the corn tortillas, providing its different color and texture. They were unique and delicious, such a delightful fusion of cuisines. Who would have thought such a combination could be so tasty? The lamb was moist and tender, just exquisitely prepared, and the entirety of the taco worked so well. I could easily see a Greek-Mexican Taco joint doing very well in the Boston area.

Timballo at Spiga (Needham)
This hearty dish is made with crespelle (kind of an Italian crepe), meat ragú, and locally sourced dried mozzarella. What an amazing dish, such excellent comfort food! It reminded me in some respects to a lasagna, though the crespelle is softer. The ragú contained plenty of flavorful meat in a superb red sauce, and there was lots and lots of gooey cheese. It is an amply portioned dish so bring your appetite. So much flavor in a superb dish, perfect for a chilly winter evening.

Chivito at La Bodega By Salts (Watertown)
Chivito, which literally means "small goat," is a popular sandwich in Uruguay, and generally is a steak sandwich with a variety of toppings. The Chivito al Pan is sliced beef tenderloin, country ham, bacon, and a fried egg. It is quite a large sandwich, and a bit messy to eat, but it was also quite tasty, with plenty of tender meats. The soft roll enhanced the sandwich, which is large enough to make its own meal. An excellent comfort food and I understand its popularity in Uruguay.

Teppanyaki Loco Moco by Momi Nonmi (Cambridge)
Speaking of comfort food, the Teppanyaki Loco Moco hits the spot. It is composed of a bed of rice, topped by a grilled grass-fed beef patty and a fried egg. Tableside, a sizzling gravy is then added to the dish. Wow, this would be the perfect hangover food! The rich and savory gravy was a superb addition to this dish, enhancing the flavor of the beef and egg. The yolk also added its own richness to the dish, and eating the gravy soaked rice was pure pleasure. I certainly didn't need or want a bun for this burger. You probably wouldn't expect to find a burger here, but you need to check it out as I bet you'll place it on your list as one of the best burger dishes in the Boston+ area.

Jhol Momos at Jay's Pizza (Malden)
Who would have suspected that your typical pizza, subs, and ice cream shop would also carry Nepalese Momos? Their Jhol Momo dish consists of 10 hot Momos in a cold broth. The dichotomy between the hot and cold was initially a little jarring, as it isn't a usual combination you find in many cuisines. However, after the initial trepidation, I found that the combination actually worked well. The momos themselves possessed a fairly thin dumpling wrapper that had just the right amount of consistency, and they were filled with an ample portion of a tasty pork and spice mixture. On their own, the momos make an excellent dumpling. Now, the cold broth was intriguing, with a strong and complex curry taste, and it added to the flavor of the momos. The broth seemed to have lowered the temperature of the momos, transforming the hot dumplings into a dish that worked well on a hot summer day.

Chicken & Waffles at Ledger Restaurant (Salem)
The Brunch menu at Ledger is compelling, from their Cinnamon Rolls (pictured at the very top of this article) to their Home-made Donuts. Their Chicken & Waffles entree includes buttermilk fried chicken, a corn waffle, green chile butter, hot honey, and a side of pickles. The fried chicken was superb, with a great, crisp and clean coating, moist chicken with an added sweetness from the honey. The waffle too was very good, with only a mild corn flavor, enhanced by a subtle spice from the green chile butter. One of the best Chicken & Waffles dishes I've enjoyed in some time, and it is highly recommended.

Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee at The Table At Season To Taste (Cambridge)
The Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was made with wild boar sausage, Matsutake mushrooms, pine nuts, and Szechuan chili. Congee is basically an Asian-type of rice porridge, and there are many variations in the various Asian countries. This dish impressed me with its depth of flavor, varied textures, and it was perfect for a chilly fall evening. There was plenty of moist, tender wild boar, chunks of sweet potatoes, and crunchy pine nuts, There was a mild spiciness to the dish which built over time, and it was also an ample-sized dish. Pure comfort food and highly recommended.

What were some of your favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?