The din of cicadas, the southern French accent, a glass of Pastis at a table outside a café: this is Aix-en-Provence, one of France’s most delightful towns.

I still remember the first time I wandered through its streets.

The old town, with its elegant squares and meandering lanes, instantly captivated me.

There was something about the golden-hued stone, the trickling fountains, and the lively yet relaxed atmosphere that felt unmistakably Provençal.

Aix has long been the capital of Provence, a legacy visible in its grand architecture, its wealth of private mansions, and the ever-present traces of its flourishing past.

The city of the painter Cézanne, Aix is a fascinating place, watched over by the iconic Sainte-Victoire mountain, which rises to 1,011 metres.

If you’re planning a visit, here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your time in Aix-en-Provence!

What about Aix-en-Provence?

Nestled in the heart of historic Provence, Aix-en-Provence has all the charm of a small town despite its size.

With a population of around 150,000, Aix is relatively modest for a sous-préfecture in France.

Yet, unlike its sprawling neighbour Marseille—the vast, bustling port metropolis—Aix-en-Provence has managed to preserve its unique character.

Here, time seems to flow differently.

Cobbled streets wind through an old town where cars are unwelcome, fountains grace nearly every square, and a distinct air of refinement lingers in its shaded courtyards.

Aix has long been associated with water and art, and it continues to live up to this reputation.

The city’s residents, known as Aixois or Aquisextains, form a fascinating mix.

Many are retirees drawn to Aix for its relaxed lifestyle and enviable climate.

Summers can be scorching, but the famous Mistral wind, sweeping down from the Rhône Valley, helps to temper the heat.

It’s no wonder that Aix is often described as a haven for those seeking sunshine, culture, and an unhurried pace of life.

A Historic University Town

At the same time, Aix is also a dynamic university town.

It belongs to the largest académie (educational district) in France, surpassing even Paris.

In 2012, the city was home to 41,000 students, a number that has grown significantly following the merger of its three universities—Provence University, Mediterranean University, and Paul Cézanne University—into Aix-Marseille University.

Today, the académie d’Aix-Marseille counts around 75,000 students, giving the city a youthful energy that balances its more traditional, refined atmosphere.

Dolce Vita in Aix

But beyond the sunshine and the dolce vita, Aix holds countless secrets.

To truly experience its essence, one must venture beyond the main streets.

Take an unassuming alleyway, step through a hidden passage, and you might find yourself in front of the former home of a celebrated painter, a lavish hôtel particulier, or one of the 140 sites classified as Historic Monuments.

Aix is a city that rewards the curious.

All you have to do is look a little closer—and prepare to be amazed.

Where to stay in Aix-en-Provence?

You can choose from a great range of accommodation in Aix-en-Provence, from hotels to B&B and campsites!

My recommendation is to book your accommodation near the city centre.

Although it’s a more pricey option, you’ll save time on transportation and can access most of the 10 things to see within walking distance.

Also, when possible, don’t wait until the last minute to book as finding hotel rooms can be a problem, especially on weekdays.

To book your accommodation in Aix, click on this affiliate link which will redirect you to our partner booking.com… or use the interactive map below:

Things to See in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is a city best explored at a leisurely pace. It’s not a place to rush from one attraction to another but rather to wander, soak up the atmosphere, and let the city reveal its treasures. That being said, there are a few must-sees that capture the essence of Aix.

Cours Mirabeau – The Beating Heart of Aix

No visit to Aix would be complete without a stroll along the Cours Mirabeau.

This grand boulevard, shaded by towering plane trees, separates the historic old town from the more modern Mazarin quarter.

Flanked by elegant 17th and 18th-century townhouses, lively cafés, and fountains, it’s the perfect spot to people-watch over a coffee or an apéro.

The famous Deux Garçons, once frequented by Cézanne and Hemingway, is the most iconic of these cafés.

📸 Discover Cours Mirabeau on the blog.

The Old Town – A Labyrinth of Charm

Step away from the Cours Mirabeau, and you’ll find yourself in the enchanting Vieil Aix, a maze of narrow, cobbled streets filled with artisan boutiques, traditional bakeries, and charming squares where locals gather.

Keep an eye out for the Place d’Albertas, a small yet striking square with a Baroque fountain that feels like a hidden gem straight out of a painting.

📸 Discover the Old Town on the blog.

The Cathedral of Saint-Sauveur – A Journey Through Time

Aix’s Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur is an architectural patchwork reflecting the city’s long history.

Built on the site of an ancient Roman forum, it blends Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements.

Inside, don’t miss the Triptych of the Burning Bush, a masterpiece by Nicolas Froment that dates back to the 15th century.

Step into the cloister for a moment of serenity away from the bustling streets.

📸 Discover Aix Cathedral on the blog.

The Fountains – Aix, the City of a Thousand Fountains

Aix-en-Provence is famous for its fountains, and while it may not have a thousand, there are over a hundred scattered throughout the city.

Some are grand and imposing, like the Fontaine de la Rotonde at the entrance to the Cours Mirabeau, while others are small and tucked away, waiting to be discovered.

The Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins, in the elegant Mazarin district, is particularly photogenic.

Mazarin Quarter – The Refined Side of Aix

For a quieter, more elegant side of Aix, explore the Mazarin district.

Built in the 17th century for the city’s aristocrats, it is home to some of Aix’s most beautiful mansions.

The Hôtel de Caumont, now an art centre, is a highlight.

Not only does it host excellent exhibitions, but its tea room and gardens offer a peaceful retreat.

Markets – A Feast for the Senses

Aix’s markets are among the finest in Provence.

The Place Richelme market, held daily, is a paradise of local produce: sun-ripened tomatoes, fragrant herbs, honey, cheeses, and of course, the region’s famous olives.

On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the city hosts larger markets, filling the streets with the scent of lavender, freshly baked bread, and an irresistible mix of colours and textures.

Atelier Cézanne – In the Footsteps of a Master

For art lovers, a visit to the Atelier Cézanne is a must.

This modest studio, preserved as it was when Cézanne worked here, offers an intimate glimpse into the daily life of the father of modern art.

You’ll find his easel, brushes, and even the objects that appear in some of his still-life paintings.

It’s a touching reminder of his deep connection to Aix and its surroundings, particularly the Montagne Sainte-Victoire, which he painted obsessively.

Montagne Sainte-Victoire – Cézanne’s Muse

If you have time to venture just outside the city, Montagne Sainte-Victoire is an essential excursion.

This dramatic limestone ridge, so often painted by Cézanne, offers some of the most breathtaking views in Provence.

Whether you drive to a scenic viewpoint or take a hike along its trails, you’ll quickly understand why this mountain fascinated the artist.

📸 Discover Montagne Sainte-Victoire on the blog.

Things to Do in Aix-en-Provence

Looking for activities and things to do in Aix and its surroundings? Check out the offers from our partner Get Your Guide:

The Major events in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is a vibrant city… there will certainly be an event organised during your visit!\

Festival international d’art lyrique

The most important cultural event in the city is undoubtedly the International Festival of Lyric Art.

Its programme is regularly broadcast by several national television stations.

It is an opera and classical music festival created in 1948 and held every summer. It is one of the great European opera festivals, with a particular affinity for the operas of Mozart.

The performances are now spread over several sites: the courtyard of the former archbishop’s palace, the Théâtre de l’Archevêché, the Grand Théâtre de Provence, the Théâtre du Jeu de Paume and the Hôtel Maynier d’Oppède.

Other festivals and cultural events

Other notable cultural events include:

• the Easter Festival,
• the Festival de la Chanson Française du Pays d’Aix,
• the literary festival “Le Printemps des lettres méditerranéennes”,
• the Zic Zac Festival and
• the Rencontres du neuvième art, devoted to comic strips and organised annually since 2004.

How to get there

By car

Aix-en-Provence is easily accessible by car from Paris, Lyon and Marseille, via the A5, A6, A7 and A51 autoroutes (French for motorways).

For your parking convenience, there are park-and-ride facilities (€2.20/day + free bus) all around the city. Find out more here.

By air

The closest airport is the Aéroport International Marseille-Provence which is 25 km from the city centre of Aix with a shuttle bus every 30 minutes.

If you travel from America or Australia, you might prefer to take a flight to Paris Charles de Gaulle. Then, travel by TGV from the airport station straight to Aix-en-Provence. There you can catch a shuttle bus downtown (18km).

By train

The Aix TGV station is 15 km from the city centre. It reaches Paris in less than 3 hours and Lyon in 1 hr. Shuttle bus every 30 minutes.

The town also has a train station in the city centre which serves Marseille, Gardanne, Manosque, and Sisteron.

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Aix-en-Provence: Find out more!

All our pages about Aix-en-Provence on the blog:

• Aix History: A Brief Account
• Aix Old Town: A Discovery Guide
• Cours Mirabeau
• Aix Cathedral: A Discovery Guide
• Place de l’Hôtel de Ville of Aix
• Place d’Albertas: an elegant square in Aix
• The Calissons of Aix: a Specialty Candy from Provence
• Montagne Sainte-Victoire: the iconic mountain of Aix
• Around Aix-en-Provence: 10 Beautiful Places to Visit

More info about Aix-en-Provence:

• Discover the historic and cultural region of Provence on the blog
• Visit the Tourist office board of Aix-en-Provence
• Book your accommodation in Aix-en-Provence