Durumagi

The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times.^[3][4][5][6] This form of paofu (Chinese robes) was mid-calf in length and had binding which were similar to those used in the jeogori.^[3] Such form of robes looked similar to the zhiju (Chinese: 直裾) which was developed since Shang dynasty. Two unearthed examples of the zhiju can be found in Mawangdui (马王堆) BC 206–24 and Mashan chumu (马山楚墓) BC 770–476.^[7][8]

Tomb murals from Goguryeo were primarily painted in two regions, Ji'an (集安) and Pyeongyang, which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.^[9]: 15 The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty, including figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.^[9]: 15

According to Samuel Lee, the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:^[3]

"[Goguryeo] Murals also show that both men and women wore chima. The type worn by both for formal occasions was sang and that worn only by women was goon, which had long and wide dimensions. The origin of durumagi, the long outer coat worn over a jeogori, goes back to the Goguryeo period. The durumagi emanates form the long coat worn by northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times. The long coat [worn by northern Chinese] reached mid-calf and had bindings similar to those used for jeogori. Later, this [long coat] was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals, and the modified form worn by the general populace came to be known as durumagi.^[3]

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:^[10]

Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from Gamsinchong (龕神塚), the ancient durumagi worn by the owner of Gamsinchong tomb was red (or purple) in colour:^[11]: 16

[The tomb of the owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.

The Gamsinchong murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.^[11]: 16 The ancient durumagi was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.^[12]

During the Goryeo period, Mongolian influences caused the durumagi to change in appearance.^[12] Not only was the waist belt changed into a goreum, the traditional po's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.^[13]

During the Joseon dynasty, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.^[14] However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.^[12]

The durumagi is an overcoat, which is closed all around,^[2] lacking side and back vents.^[1]: 120 It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.^[1]: 120

Different fabrics and materials are used in making durumagi: calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.^[2] White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.^[15]

 

 

There are various types which include the hotedan durumagi (홑단 두루마기; lit. single-layer durumagi), gyup durumagi (겹 두루마기; lit. double-layer durumagi), som durumagi (솜 두루마기; lit. cotton durumagi), kkachi durumagi (까치 두루마기; lit. magpie durumagi), and obangjang durumagi (오방장 두루마기; lit. five-colour durumagi) for children.^[16]

The durumagi was a unique type of brigandine that resembled a robe or overcoat with an open front scale armor glued, woven, or nailed, forming dots on the outside. According to the "Goryeodogyeong" (高麗圖經) written by the Song dynasty envoy Xu Jing (徐兢), the armor of Goryeo soldiers was described as "similar to a durumagi [逢掖] that is connected at the top and bottom." Thus, from the Goryeo period to the late Joseon period, the durumagi-style [袍形] armor continued as a unique armor style of Goryeo. Though light infantry wore regular durumagi, they commonly had scales or overlapping plates made from leather, paper, or iron. The materials of the scales (찰) that make up the armor, such as Su-eun-gap (수은갑, mercury armor), Yu-yeop-gap (유엽갑, willow leaf armor), Pi-gap (피갑, leather armor), and Ji-gap (지갑, paper armor) are different. Still, they all share the common feature of having holes punched in the scales, laced with deer leather. Therefore, the original text depicts them with the single character '갑' (armor). They preferred the durumagi-style armor with an open front because this type of armor is the most comfortable for shooting arrows. In traditional archery (국궁), archers fully open their chest, a technique called "splitting the chest," to shoot arrows effectively, which would be hindered if the front were closed. Consequently, most armors throughout the Joseon period were in the form of a durumagi. The square piece on the right side of the armor protects the armpit and is called Ho-aek (護腋), while the long strap at the top protects the neck and is called Ho-hang (護項). Examining the materials of the scales, Su-eun-gap involves plating iron scales with mercury to make them shiny, Yu-yeop-gap has iron scales lacquered in black, Pi-gap is made by crafting scales from raw pig leather, and Ji-gap is made by layering paper and then lacquering it in black.^{[citation needed]}

 

The durumagi is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,^[17] but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful durumagi were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 APEC Summit in Busan.^[18]

• Dopo
• Gonryongpo
• Hanbok
• Jeonbok
• Kkachi durumagi
• Po
• Sagyusam

• Lee Ho-jeong (7 May 2007). "Clothing with stories of fertility and faith". JoongAng Daily.

• Owner of Gamsinchong tomb wearing a purple (or red) durumagi from the National Museum of Korea
• Korea National Heritage online from the Cultural Heritage Administration
• (in Korean) Hanbok Story

 

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