Cholatse
| Cholatse | |
|---|---|
 Cholatse from the east | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 6,440 m (21,130 ft)[1] |
| Coordinates | 27°55′05″N 86°46′00″E / 27.91806°N 86.76667°E |
| Geography | |
  Cholatse Location in Nepal | |
| Location | Khumbu, Nepal |
| Parent range | Khumbu Himal |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1982 by Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Bill O'Conner, and Peter Hackett |
| Easiest route | glacier/snow/ice climb |
Cholatse (also known as Jobo Lhaptshan) (Nepali: चोलात्से) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya. Cholatse is connected to Taboche (6,501m) by a long ridge. The Chola glacier descends off the east face. The north and east faces of Cholatse can be seen from Dughla, on the trail to Mount Everest base camp.[2]
There is a lake just below this pass to the east, and in Tibetan 'cho' is lake, 'la' is pass, and 'tse' is peak so Cholatse means literally "lake pass peak".[3] Cholatse was first climbed via the southwest ridge on April 22, 1982, by Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Bill O'Connor and Peter Hackett.[4] The north face was successfully scaled in 1984.
Notable ascents
[edit]- 1996 North Face - First ascent by a French team (Boris Badaroux, Philippe Batoux, Marc Challamel, Christophe Mora, Paul Robach (leader)). They climb took 3 days, the route (IV+, 90°, 1600m) started at the center of the north face, with sharp turns to the right at the beginning, then left at the middle and finally taking a turn to the right to join the northwest ridge that led the team to the summit.[5]
- 2005 North Face - first ascent in winter by Korean team (Park Jung-hun, Choi Gang-sik), January 16, 2005.
- 2005 North Face - first solo ascent by Ueli Steck, April 15, 2005.[6]
- 2005 Southwest Ridge - summit attained by Kevin Thaw, Conrad Anker, Kris Erickson, John Griber and Abby Watkins on May 12, 2005.[7]
- 2010 North Face (new variant) - A team (Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo) from St. Petersburg, Russia, made an ascent of a new variant of the north face at the end of the calendar winter, the route went through a huge rock buttress on the right of the French route of 1996, and joined them at ca.5,900m. Their route's difficulty (Russian 6B, VI+, A2, 80°, 1,600m).[8]
- 2021 North Face left flank - 5 members from an 8-member French expedition opened a new route on the left flank of Cholatse's north face-northeast face. After 5 days of climbing (25-29 October), the French reached the top. The route was named Brothers In Arms (ED, VI, M5+, WI5, 1,600m) and was dedicated to three of their colleagues (Thomas Arfi , Gabriel Miloche and Louis Pachoud) who went missing after an avalanche on Mingbo Eiger (6,070m) southeast of Ama Dablam on October 26.[9]
References
[edit]- ^ "Cholatse". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 14 April 2015.
- ^ Radek Kucharski (2023). Everest: A Trekker's Guide: Base Camp, Kala Patthar, Gokyo Ri. Trekking routes in Nepal and Tibet. Cicerone Press Limited.
- ^ "Cholatse". summitpost.org. Retrieved 10 May 2013.
- ^ Philip Parker (2012). Himalaya: The Exploration and Conquest of the Greatest Mountains on Earth. Anova Books. p. 598.
- ^ Robach, Paul (1996). "Cholatse North Face" (PDF). French Mountaineering Federation. Archived from the original on 2023-08-16. Retrieved 28 Nov 2021.
- ^ MacDonald, Dougald (13 July 2005). "Solo on Cholatse and Tawoche". Climbing.com Hot Flashes. Climbing magazine. Archived from the original on 28 February 2009. Retrieved 1 Sep 2009.
- ^ "The Himalayan Cataract Project team Summits Cholatse!". MountEverest.net. ExplorersWeb. 12 May 2005. Archived from the original on 11 October 2008. Retrieved 1 Sep 2009.
- ^ Piunova, Anna (2011). "Cholatse North Face, Calendar winter ascent" (PDF). mountain.ru. Archived from the original on 2023-08-16. Retrieved 28 Nov 2021.
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