Isparta
Isparta is a city in the Lakes District (Göller Yöresi) of Mediterranean Turkey, best known for its production of rose oil. In 2022 the population was 247,600.
Understand
[edit]Isparta in antiquity was Baris (Σπάρτη). It stands at an altitude of 1065 m, chilly in winter, but the climate and volcanic soil suits roses. In 1887 many refugees fled here from Bulgaria, especially from Kazanlak, when the decaying Ottoman Empire was yet again trounced in war by expanding Russia. They brought with them the secret of preparing Attar of Rose perfume, and a stock of rose cultivars. This is now the city's main industry: even with the advent of synthetics, this oil remains the basis for rose-scented perfumes, and a valuable byproduct of its extraction is rose water. Petals are harvested at dawn May to June before the sun's warmth opens the buds and releases the oil, a labour-intensive task as 100 kg of petals yields only 25 g of oil. The oil is sold in bulk to the perfume manufacturers with none on sale locally to tourists (and the pure oil is irritant) but there are plenty of rose water products.
The city was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1914. A few mosques were repaired but almost everything else was re-built anew. Isparta is therefore a modern town and doesn't have an old quarter.
Visitor information is available online from the Turkish Tourism Ministry.
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]1 Isparta Süleyman Demirel Airport (ISE IATA), ☏ +90 246 559 2008. Turkish Airlines fly from Istanbul IST several days a week, taking 75 min. And that's all, apart from an occasional seasonal flight from Teheran. This low footfall means scanty airport facilities. It's 31 km northwest of town with no public transport so you need to arrange a ride. 
Antalya Airport (AYT IATA) has a wide range of flights from Europe and within Turkey. It's 125 km south of Isparta.
By bus
[edit]Buses from Istanbul run six times a day and take 10 hours via Gebze, Izmit, Kütahya and Afyon. They continue to Antalya, another 2 hr 30 min.
From Ankara is 6 hours via Afyon. Some continue to Izmir, another 6 hr 30 min.
Bus lines are Pamukkale, Metro Turizm and Flixbus.
2 Isparta Otobüs Terminali is the inter-city bus station. Opened in 2024, it's 5 km north of downtown with no public transport link (duh?) so you need a taxi.
By train
[edit]From Izmir, Göller Ekspresi or Lakes Express runs once daytime and once overnight, taking 10 hours via Izmir Airport, Selcuk (for Ephesus and Kuşadası), Aydın, Nazilli and Denizli (for Pamukkale). These trains only have seating, no sleeper berths.
A connecting train shuttles between Isparta and Burdur.
3 Isparta railway station is central, at the T-junction of Doğan Kımıllı Cd and Istasyon Cd.
Get around
[edit]The town sights are all within walking distance. You need your own wheels for outlying sights.
See
[edit]
- Isparta Museum near the railway station has been "temporarily closed" since about the outbreak of the Trojan Wars.
- 1 House of Said Nursî, Kemer Altı Sk, ☏ +90 505 775 8863. Daily 08:30-19:30. Said Nursî (1877-1960) was a a Kurdish Sunni Muslim theologian who wrote extensive commentary on the Koran, and advocated a synthesis of science and religious faith. Inevitably he was persecuted, jailed and almost executed by sundry authorities, without them waiting to see if his prediction of Doomsday for 1530 AH / 2106 AD was correct. He spent his later years in Isparta, where his home is a shrine-cum-museum.
- 2 Kutlubey Mosque or Grand Mosque is the city's oldest, built in 1429. It was wrecked in the earthquake of 1914 and restored in 1922. Further renovation from 2022 has plonked an underground car park entrance in front of it.
- Firdevs-Bey Mosque is from 1561. It's 200 m north of Kutlubey Mosque, at Mimar Sinan Cd 24.
- 3 Ethnography and Carpet Museum, Mehmet Eröz Sk, ☏ +90 246 242 3200. Daily 08:30-17:30. Large display of kilims, Turkish traditional carpets. It's on the 10th floor, with city views. Free.
- Cankaya Museum is shown on maps northwest edge of town but is a hoax, it's just a pumpkin patch.
Further out
[edit]- 4 Sagalassos
is the substantial ruins of a Roman / Byzantine city, abandoned in the 7th century after earthquakes and other calamities. It's 21 km south of Isparta by a hairpin mountain road and open daily 09:00-17:30.
- 5 Davraz
- 6 Eğirdir is a small town near the south end of freshwater Lake Eğirdir, 37 km east of Isparta. The oldest part of town is on a peninsula, with the ruins of a Byzantine castle.
Do
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- Hamams - traditional Turkish baths - are found in a dozen locations. One of the most central is Karaağaç on Firdevs Cd, 500 m south of the railway station, open daily 09:00-01:00.
- Football: Isparta 32 SK play soccer in TFF 2 Lig, the third tier. Their home ground Atatürk Stadium (capacity 4300) is 500 m southwest of the railway station. The town's other club Ispartaspor folded in 2014.
Buy
[edit]- Lots of small supermarkets, Bim is the main chain, mostly open daily 09:00-21:00.
Eat
[edit]- Most eating places are north of the centre, in the streets near Barida Hotels. The old bus station stood here so it's a question how many will survive now that clientele has gone.
- A smaller group is southwest of the railway station at the foot of Istasyon Cd.
Drink
[edit]- Near the intersection of Atatürk Cd and Istasyon Cd are Barcelona, Huni Cafe Bar and Beygir Pub.
Sleep
[edit]
- 1 Ramada by Wyndham, Süleyman Demirel Cd 57/1, ☏ +90 246 220 2000. Decent central hotel, clean and spacious rooms, but poor a/c and sound-proofing. B&B double 3000 TL.
- 2 Barida Hotels, Süleyman Demirel Cd 102, ☏ +90 246 500 2525. Clean and spacious but poor a/c and some noise. B&B double 3000 TL.
- 3 Hilton Garden Inn, Atatürk Blv 73/1, ☏ +90 246 220 7000. Boxy edge-of-town hotel at the junction of D685 and D330, convenient for motorists though the basement car park is dingy. B&B double 3000 TL.
Connect
[edit]Isparta and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Nov 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.
Go next
[edit]- Akşehir is best known as the home of Nasruddin Hoca.
- Burdur has a good museum.
- Konya, origin of the "dancing dervishes", has fine Seljuk architecture.
- Antalya is a large lively beach resort.
| Routes through Isparta |
| Kütahya ← Sandıklı ← | N  S |
→ Burdur → Antalya |
| Muğla ← Burdur ← | W  E |
→ Beyşehir → Konya |