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FMS-1 Module 3 Knitting

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Fashion Material Studies –I

Module-III
Fabric Types & Constructions in the markets-
Knitted

By: Pratibha Malik


Amity University, NOIDA
Content…
• Fabric yarn count system & Construction
• Commonly used Fabric Types & constructions
prevalent in the market.
• Rare Fabric constructions
• Recognizing Various fabric types
• Sourcing various fabric types
• Recognizing the various types of dyeing and
printing methods used on the fabrics
• Costs associated with the dyeing or printing
method
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Topic-I

• Introduction to knitting
• Types of yarn used in Knitting
• Warp knitting
• Weft knitting

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Introduction to Knitting

• The term knitting describes the


technique of constructing
textile structures by forming a
continuous length into
vertically intermeshed loops.
• Knitted fabric consists of
consecutive loops, called
stitches.
• It can be done using machine
or by hand.
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Yarn Requirements for
Knitting
• Yarn count and machine gauge
• Yarn Twist
• Uniformity
• Coefficient of friction
• Flexural Rigidity
• Tenacity and Elongation
• Yarn hairiness
• Elasticity
• Moisture content
• Yarn winding

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Classification of Knits

Knitted
fabrics

Weft Warp
Knitting knitting

Tricot Raschel

Single
Purl Rib Interlock
jersey

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Warp Knitting
In a warp knitting structure each loop in the vertical direction is made from
different thread.
Weft Knitting
In a weft knitting
structure a horizontal
row of loops can be
made using one
thread and the thread
runs in the horizontal
direction. Most of the
knitting fabric are
produced by weft
knitting
DIFFERENCE
Warp knitting Weft knitting

The loops are produced to the length of The loops are produced to the width of
fabric . fabric.

Elastic to the length Elastic to the width

Elasticity less than weft knitting Elasticity higher than warp knitting

Shrinkage properties is less Shrinkage properties is higher

At least one yarn is required for each Any number of yarn


needle

Yarn are supplied from beam Yarn are supplied from cone

Any design is done easily All types of design is complex.


Basic Stitches

Knit/Plain
Tuck Stitch
Stitch

Float/ Miss
Stitch
PLAIN STITCH

PLAIN STITCH IS THE BASIC KNITTING STITCH.IT IS ALSO CALLED


THE KNIT STITCH.
Knit stitch is formed when the needle carries out a complete stroke,
reaching the maximum height on the looping plane.
TUCK STITCH

A TUCK STITCH IS FORMED WHEN A


KNITTING NEEDLE HOLDS ITS OLD
LOOP AND THEN RECEIVE NEW
YARN, TWO LOOPS WILL THEN
COLLECT IN ONE NEEDLE HOOK.
 Tuck stitch
A tuck stitch is formed when a knitting needle holds its old loop and then
receives a new yarn. Two loops then collect in the needle hook. The
previously formed knitted loop is called the held loop and the loop which
joins it is a tuck loop.

The resultant stitch is elongated. Tuck stitches appear on the back of a


fabric and may be recognised as an inverted V, sometime elongated for
two or more courses, depending on how many times the stitched was
tucked.

The tuck stitch is used in knitted fabric to create design effects in colour,
raised surface texture, or a hole or eyelet effect
MISS STITCH

A MISS IS CREATED WHEN ONE OR


MORE KNITTING NEEDLES ARE
DEACTIVATED AND DO NOT MOVE
TO ACCEPT YARN. YARN MERELY
PASSED BY NO STICH IS FORMED.
Knit, tuck and miss stitches can be used in any of the four
fabric types – single jersey, rib, purl or interlock – to produce
a wide range of structural effects. 
WARP KNITTING

• Warp knitted fabric is produced from a set of warp yarn. It is parallel knitted to
each other down the length of the fabric.

• More resistant to laddering than weft knits.


Warp Knitting
• Second major category of knit fabrics
• Characterized by vertical loops
• More resistant to laddering than weft knits
• Usually done on flat knitting machine
• Two main types of warp knitting machine
1. Tricot
2. Rachel
Tricot Knits

• The right side of the fabric has fine lengthwise ribs while the reverse has
crosswise ribs.

• A soft and 'drapey' texture with some lengthwise stretch and almost no
crosswise stretch.

• Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant.

• Tricot is very common fabric for making lingerie.


TRICOT KNIT
• Good elasticity
• Best of warp knits
• Inexpensive and quick to produce
• Good air and water permeability
• Soft
• Crease resistant
• Good drapeability
End Uses of TRICOT
• Lingerie
• Nightwear
• Dresses
• Used as a backing fabric in multi-component
structures
RASCHEL KNIT
• Similar to Tricot Knits
• Greater diversity in design
• More texture
• Open spaces
• Made from heavier yarns
End uses of Raschel
• Fine laces and nets
• Heavy carpets
• Thermal underwear with a waffle effect
• Power-net fabrics for swimsuits and foundations
• Heavy blankets
References

• https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/02
/yarn-quality-parameters-for-knitting.html
• https://www.academia.edu/12875039/19_Y
arn_Requirement_for_Knitting
• https://textechdip.wordpress.com/
contents/welcome-to-knitting/

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