Cutting Room
Cutting Room
Cutting Room
costs
The cutting room has a greater effect on
excessive manufacturing costs than any other
department concerned with the actual
production of garments.
Internal costs those incurred in the cutting
room itself.
External costs those incurred by other
departments as a result of the malfunctions of
the cutting room.
Internal costs
Efficiency
Pattern accuracy
Marker waste
Spreading waste
External costs
Coordination
Defects
Matching
Accuracy
Sewing
Shading
Quality
Markers
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Machine
Cutting
Die Press
Computer
Shade marking
Preparation
for sewing
Ticketing
Bundles
Results of
Cut Order Planning
Cutting Orders
Leads to
Marker planning
Lay planning
Marker Making
Marker Making
Manually produced
Dimensions of marker
Types of Markers
Open marker Marker made with full
pattern pieces
Closed Marker marker made with half
garment parts pieces for laying along the
folds of the tube (tubular knit)
Marker Modes
Is determined by the symmetry and
directionality of fabric.
Nap either way (N/E/W)
Nap one way (N/O/W)
Nap up and down (N/U/D)
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
Minimum waste
Plotting
The process of drawing or printing pattern
pieces or markers on paper so they can
be reviewed or cut.
Duplications of marker
Spreading
Spreading is the processes of
superimposing lengths of fabric on a
spreading table cutting table or specially
designed surface in preparation for the
cutting process
A spread or lay-up is the total amount of
fabric prepared for a single marker .
Spreading mode
Spreading mode is the manner in which
fabric plies are laid out for cutting
Direction of the fabric: it may be positioned
in two ways face-to-face (F/F) or with all
plies facing-one-way (F/O/W)
Direction of the Fabric Nap: it may be
positioned nap-one-way (N/O/W) or napup-down
Spreading modes
F/O/W
N/O/W
F/F
N/O/W
F/F
N/U/D
F/O/W
N/U/D
Requirements of Spreading
process
Methods of spreading
Spreading by hand
Spreading using a travelling machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)
Spreading costs
Labour cost
Fabric Waste
Splicing
marks
End loss occurs when the spreader reaches the end
of the marker and fabric must be cut from the roll or
folded back for the return lap
Width loss occurs when the fabric is wider than the
marker and the extra fabric is not used
Equipment purchase
Number of sizes
Marker Type
Contract details
MARKER UTILISATION
Fabric Properties
ECONOMIC CUT
QUANTITIES
Quality constraints
Equipment constraints
Labour costs
Material availability
Production rates
Delivery deadlines
Disruptions
CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS
10 12 14 16 18
Quantity
40 90 80 25 25
The constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 50 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
The limit of four garments marked may seem rather
contrived but it allows the concepts to be explained
more easily
Lay 1
Lay 2
The contract details
Size
Quantity
10
40
12
90
14
80
18
12
12
Lay 1 25 plies
10
14
14
12
Lay 2 40 plies
16
25
18
25
12 14 16 18
Quantity
100 160 120 60
the constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 60 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
16
16
14
18
Lay 1- 60 plies
Lay 2
12
12
14
14
Lay 2 50 plies
Lay 1- 60 plies
Lay 2 - 75 plies
Lay 3 - 75 plies
Lay 4 - 50 plies
2
2.0
4
2.2
2
2.4
1
2.5
1. Determine targets:
Theoretical minimum no. Of lays is a little more
complicated as the maximum no. of garments
must be inferred. Since the average length is
about 2.3 m per garment, the maximum
number marked will be 4
Theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1200/4X100
=3
Since quantities are not in multiples of 100 three
lays is an impossibility consequently, the
target must be four lays
2. Consider options
3. Make decision
Lay 1- 60 plies
Lay 2- 80 plies
C
C
D
D
Lay 3 - 80 plies
Lay 4 - 80 plies
4. Calculation of material
Marker for lay 1
Ply lengths
Ply length for lay 1
Ply length for lays 2-4
Lay lengths
Lay length for lay 1
Lay length for lays 2-4
8.770 X 60 = 526.20 m
9.055 X 80= 724.40 m
Material costs
Total length
Total cost