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Prepared by:
Quoc Huynh Le
Sopron, 2008
The University of West Hungary 1 Doctoral thesis
Table of content
1. Antecedents ............................................................................................................ 2
2. Purposes of the study.............................................................................................. 2
3. Materials of the study ............................................................................................. 3
4. Methods of the study .............................................................................................. 3
5. Achievements ........................................................................................................ 3
First thesis: Technical drawing of shoe design ................................................... 3
Second thesis: Selection of the method of forme making ................................... 4
Third thesis: Application of the thickness of material into upper design ............ 6
Fourth thesis: Determination of a ball line ........................................................... 9
Fifth thesis: Determination of the long parameter in grading ............................ 11
Sixth thesis: Economic analysis of operate of the shoe design equipments ...... 12
6. Applications of the results ................................................................................... 14
7. Acknowledgements .............................................................................................. 16
8. List of publications ............................................................................................... 17
9. List of references .................................................................................................. 18
1. Antecedents
The Vietnamese shoe industry has a very young story, look back upon about 20
years. In the last years of the 20-th century, the shoe industry has been a main growing
power for economic of the country, because it requires low level of technologies and
trained labors.
As well as the garment industry, the shoe industry has quickly been developed,
and for only a short time, the Vietnamese shoe export turns over second in Asia.
However, the shoe industry is facing with many problems, because of shortage of
professional education and skillful employees. Many shoe enterprises therefore could
not increase their production and export. Vietnamese shoe training course have not
been started until 1998.
During the period of Vietnam’s developing certain economy, the local trainers
was proposed to develop particular shoe training courses, which was assumed to
suitable for local persons. Many institutes have endeavored to solve this mission;
however, late all of them had to stop. The wrong application of different foreign
textbooks to practice made the students fail to get their job late.
The writer luckily worked with many shoe technologies, and obtained a
Hungarian study material, whose theory is as perfect as practice. In 2001, he started
teaching at a college, His teaching is based on Hungarian shoe technology, which help
to correct wrong points under standing of Vietnamese specialists of shoe production,
he has also been successful in equip students with good knowledge and skill necessary
for their further works.
2. Purposes of the study
- First, writer would like to introduce the Hungarian shoe technology in Vietnam,
and then apply it to all of country. At the beginning, the leader of the college had
sought for shoe technologies of other Asia countries such as many Korean and
Taiwanese shoe factories. The writer however convinced them to learn from
original materials, which is actually the Hungarian shoe technology.
- Second, he compares current shoe technology in the world to point out
disadvantages and advantages each.
- Third, he analyzes the application of machinery and establishes optimum
operation for design process.
- Lastly, he develops special plan for teaching weak students, who came from
undeveloped province of country so that they can obtain necessary knowledge
and skill to job.
3. Materials of the study
- First, the materials include different technical literature, namely textbooks,
lecture notes, company’s technical documents adapting to shoe industry.
- Second, the materials are collected the lesson of course that are presented by
foreign expert, when a new factory starts to production or new technology is
applied and delivered.
- Third, materials are the experiments done by technical department of shoe
manufacturing companies. Shoe samples, which are made by shoe companies to
test the customer’s satisfaction on technical standard, give us usefully solution
and knowledge.
- Lastly, the very important materials are result where we analyze an application to
the lecture of courses and receive opinion/ comment of learners.
4. Methods of study
- Diagram method helps to explain the different technical solutions numerically
and expertly. Many local shoe technicians have used this method for long time,
however they can explain with experiences only.
- Mass experiment method uses to correct the diagram formula and technical data.
After teaching of each solution, the writer review whole work of the learners and
he treat different results, through they came in similar way.
5. Achievements
In 1987, the writer began work in shoe factories, he earned many experience in
this time. From year of 2001, he teaches in the college, and he start study the shoe
technology systematically. The result of study has summarized below.
First thesis: Technical drawing of shoe design
The writer applies standards of mechanical drawing for design of shell pattern.
This solution takes the drawing to useful for cutting rooms as well as for upper
closing department / Illustration 1. /
Outer Lining Reinforcement Symbols
Main parts (golosh) Toe lining Upper reinforcement Normal parts
CD’/F’A’/JJ’ CD’/NN’ CD’/F’A’ 1 axis parts
Inside parts JJ’F’A’ Counter lining
F”A/NN’
⊕ 2 axis parts
because in this position we can allow the cover to shrivel as equal as expanding. To
get this flat we must made one cut / about 10-15mm/ in cover at place of the toe and
of the heel / at the convex place/ . / Illustration 2 /
If we flatten out the cover to the Close flat, the girth of the forme not changes /
don’t cut anywhere/, then the convex and concave area are maximums, and the area-
shortage is also largest, we must retrieve it from somewhere./ Illustration 3a./
If we flatten out the cover to the Open flat, the girth of the forme will grow at
the place of cutting /through cut/, and the convex disappears / Illustration 3b/, because
of the through cut, the excess of area rise, we must correct some thing on it.
The above solutions are extremists, those are difficult to apply at school, the
writer choice a neutral proposal that we flatten out the cover to the middle flat. To this
flattening, we cut the cover on half only. The cover can expand and shrivel at once.
The area-shortage remains, but it will be retrieved from a stretch of leather during
process of upper lasting. Therefore, the pattern no needs to correct. / Illustration 3c/
The cutting and flattening of cover although determines, the forme making need
appropriate practice because materials are different.
a) b) c)
Table 1.The ratio of shriveling and expanding of last’s cover after flattening
The table 1 shows that the flattening to middle flat reduces the area-shortage
much, but it made a few increasing of area. Summary we have advantage, because
changes of the area are minimums.
Third thesis: Application of the thickness of material into upper design
Majority of designer handle well in forme making, but many of them do not pay
enough attention to use the thickness of material for design.
The thickness of material could take consequence for the fitting of upper to the
last, especially in training shoe, which has sponge tongue and sponge collar. Some
time, instead of increase the material thickness to the pattern, designer increase a
lasting allowance, as result, all of the upper slip to back, and they must correct all of
piece of the pattern.
The writer always pays attention to a thickness of material in design when he
holds connecting with the last’s measurements. The thickness contains the self-
material thickness of the part and the thickness of under covered layers of it.
a) Handling on design of heel curve by material-thickness
The heel curve concerns with length of upper, a material-shortage of it causes
deformation of toe and collar of the upper, the handling is follows:
In the normal upper, the heel curve follows the sharp of the back of the forme,
and the F point is 3mm inside of forme. This handling regains a lost curve of the forme
during flattening. If the collar has sponge, the F point is addition by the sponge
thickness outside along of forme / Illustration 4. a, b /
In the upper of training shoe, the sponge is thicker than the normal uppers, and
lining has sponge too. In this case, the heel curve must be place outside along the
forme by thickness of the sponge. The F point is outside of the forme by about 10-15
of mm, the A point is by 2-3 of mm yet. / Illustration 4.c/
a) b) c)
Illustration 4 .Design the heel curve, a) normal upper; b) normal sponge upper; c) training upper
c) b)
Illustration 7 .a) Design of sandal bar; b), c) Design of shoe bar
The last always shows the dimensions of our foot. In practice, 10 mm are added
to the too end of the last, this addition is so-called safe for the heel-to-toe rocking
motion of foot movement.
In surface of the last, anatomy of the foot is not often recognized, this weak
point could make trouble for designers, same time a shoes become unusable, because a
designer determine wrongly the anatomy of the foot. Many technical literatures in
different countries endeavored to find a way to reestablish the anatomy of foot on the
last, further on to determine the ball line. In this region, the Hungarian textbook give a
best developing, that provides the technicians with valuable method for their designing
work.
However, the existing procedures including of ways on graphic and experience
are still missing in fashion last which has a long toe. The long toe last give a longer
forme, but its anatomy remains. In the longer toe last, the formula to seek the ball line
of the normal forme is not applied. The writer introduces a new way to seek the ball
line that based on formula of Professor J. P. Zibin and that avoid a toe changing of the
last. The formula is follows: / Illustration 8 /
Draw the forme into a system of XOY coordinates, in the way that the A point
laying in Y line and the OA distance equal to heel height of last /hh /. The X line
crosses between the two bottom lines of the forme. Measure AB line /raised line/ with
followed formula
AB (mm) = Nõ . A + W . B + C
Where: Nõ: Number of the length (point and size)
W: Number of width
A, B, C: Coefficients, can be seen in the table
The table of coefficient
Grading systems A B C
EUR 4 0.5 8-16
UK I 5 0.5 71-79
UK II 5 0.5 136-144
CM 6 0.5 8-16
Quoc Huynh Le Shoe technology
The University of West Hungary 9 Doctoral thesis
For example:
The length of last is 36 point and the width of last is 6
AB36/6 = 36 . 4 + 6 . 0.5 + 8 = 155 mm
From AB line draw up a ball angle ABD = 980 + heel height /hh /, this line
cuts the cone at D point. The BD line will be the ball line that shows a widest place of
the last.
According the formula, change of the size of last made also a change in the
raised line. So the change of raised line depend from the A coefficient.
For example: AB37/6 = 37 . 4 + 6. 0.5 + 8 = 159 mm
Thus: AB37/6 = AB36/6 + A = 155 + 4 = 159mm
The B co-efficient give a change in raised line, if the last changed in the width
For example: AB36/7 = 36 . 4 + 7. 0.5 + 8 = 155.5 mm
Thus AB36/7 = AB36/6 + B = 155 + 0.5 = 155.5mm
/ Illustration 9 /
Illustration 10.
Reviewing of the upper measurements
For example, the length of forme of the H42 = 295 mm, and of the H46 = 322
mm. The relative grading parameter of length is.
Hn H 46 322
β= = = x100 = 109, 2 %
Ho H 42 295
Period of
Period of manual
mechanical steps
No. Steps steps (minute) Note
( minute)
New Developed New Developed
pattern pattern pattern pattern
1. Model drawing 8 5 15 5
2. Prepare color
20 20 12 6
combination for models
3. Prepare a last 3D
45 0 60 0 equipment
4. Prepare a forme 3D
8 0 25 0 equipment
5. Prepare a mean forme 3D
5 0 1 0 equipment
6. Design an auxiliary
4 4 15 0
lines
7. Design a shell pattern 20 25
8. Design a developed
20 8
pattern
9. Design pattern of parts 35 15 5 5
10. Prepare a cutting
60 40 10 10
pattern
11. Pattern grading 240 160 15 15
12. Pattern storing 15 15 1 1
Minute 460 279 184 50
Sum
Hour 7.67 4.65 3.01 0.83
The table 2.estimate a necessary work time of each shoe style. With condition, a
cost of manual of working hours are 1.5 US$; a cost of using hours of machinery is 3.9
US$; a price of 2D computer and software is 26,800 US$; 3D computer and software
is 70,800 US$ and amortization is 10 years, the sum of cost of design process is
following:
K =E+R+G
Where:
K: Sum of costs
Quoc Huynh Le Shoe technology
The University of West Hungary 12 Doctoral thesis
Minute 90 43 5 45
Sum Hour 1.5 0.72 0.083 0.75
133 minutes / 2.22 hours 50 minutes / 0.83 hours
The combined process is not necessary to apply the 3D machines, therefore the
cost of amortization of machinery has been reduced to 1,07 US$. The sum of cost is
below
* In case of design the new pattern
K= (1.5 x 1.5) + (0.72 x 1.5) + 1.17 + (0.72 x 1.07) = 5.27 US$;
* In case of design the developed pattern
K= (0.083 x 1.5) + (0.75 x 1.5) + 0.44 + (0.75 x 1.07) = 2.49 US$.
The successfully prepared technology reduces the sum cost by 33.39% in the
new pattern design and it earn a half of sum cost of reducing in the developed pattern
design. In spite of the calculation, some shoe manufacturing enterprises could not
assemble the optimum design process, because understanding of machinery’ technical
features are difficult to apply for their production.
In Vietnam, the mechanization of shoe design for manufactures is not easy
arranged, because machine offers of foreign producer are as disorderly as jungle.
Beside of mechanization of shoe design, the manual shoe design is important trained
for technician. Like that, they are faster to grasp the machines’ functions.
According to the optimum shoe design process, following formula show scale
of mechanization
Gg =
∑ Tg
∑T
Where:
Gg = mechanization’s scale
7. Acknowledgements
The writer expresses gratitude and appreciation to the all people who have
provided invaluable assistance for his graduate study:
To thank Prof. Dr. István Patkó, college professor, his supervisor, who is
advised to select a theme of the dissertation, helped and encouraged him on area of the
study’s estimating, publishing of articles and correction of the dissertation;
To thank Prof. Dr. Sándor Molnár, Doctor of Science for Dean Works and
encouragement;
To thank Prof. Dr. András Winkler, Doctor of Science for Program directing
works and encouragement;
To thank Mr. András Horváth , associate professor for advices of professional
knowledge and helping of study on practical area;
To thank Mr. Ákos Simon, HVG newspaper editor, his university friend for 30
years of unceasing helping from Hungary;
To thank Ms. Khánh Phạm Thị , M.Ed., the rector of TEIC for the permission
of the study and encouragement & her constructive works of cooperation between the
two Colleges;
To thank all Teachers and Employees, who working in RKK, TEIC and CFT
for their constructive works of cooperation between the two Colleges and approval of
the study;
To thank all Family relations for pleasant environment of the study and
encouragements
8. List of publications
Articles:
[1]. Prof. Dr. Patkó István – Huynh Le Quoc: A cipõ ipari gépek és berendezések
ũzemeltetésének a kõrnyezet védelmi elemzése . Industrial Review of Vietnam.
3/2006.
[2]. Docens Horváth András – Huynh Le Quoc: A kaptafamásolás módszerei.
Industrial Review of Vietnam. 4/2006.
[3]. Prof. Dr. István Patkó – Quoc Huynh Le: The ratio of application to machine and
equipment (mae) on the shoeindustry. Industrial Review of Vietnam. 4/2006.
[4]. Prof. Dr. Patkó István – Huynh Le Quoc: A cipõipari anyag – elõirányzat
meghatározása. Industrial Review of Vietnam. 6/2006.
[5]. Prof. Dr. István Patkó - Quoc Huynh Le – Docens András Horváth: Determining
of the auxiliary lines for the shoe upper design. Industrial Review of Vietnam.
4/2007.
[6]. Prof. Dr. István Patkó - Quoc Huynh Le – Docens András Horváth: Describing of
diagram for shoe pattern. Industrial Review of Vietnam. 5/2007.
[7]. Prof. Dr. István Patkó - Quoc Huynh Le – Docens András Horváth: A way to
grading by computer. Industrial Review of Vietnam. 8/2008.
9. List of references
Textbooks, lecture notes and technical literatures:
[1] Megyei Endre: Bevezetés a gazdaságossági vizsgálatok módszereibe II. Kézirat.
Tankõnyvkiadó, Budapest, 1979
[2] Szabados Anna: Mít értũnk termelési kapacitás alatt? Kézirat. Tankõnyvkiadó,
Budapest, 1979
[3] Megyei Endre: Gazdaságosság és jõvedelmezõség I. Kézirat. Tankõnyvkiadó,
Budapest, 1973
[4] Káldor Mihály: Képletgyũjtemény. Kõzgazdasági és Jogi Kõnyvkiadó, Budapest,
1978
[5] Dr.Patkó István: Mũszaki ábrázolás és gépszerkezetek I-II.Kõnnyũipari mũszaki
fõiskola 1993
[6] Benkõ László: Gyártmánytervezés és méretezés I – II. Kõnnyũipari mũszaki
fõiskola 1986
[7] Dr. Beke János: Cipõgyártás. Mũszaki kõnyvkiadó, Budapest , 1981
[8] Péterfi János – szemenyei Zoltán – Várnai Imre: Cipõ szerkesztése I. Mũszaki
Kõnyvkiadó, Budapest, 1982
[9] Péterfi János – szemenyei Zoltán – Várnai Imre: Cipõ szerkesztése II. Mũszaki
Kõnyvkiadó, Budapest, 1977
[10] Kováts Julianna:Cipõfelsõrész-készitõ technologia I. Mũszaki Kõnyvkiadó,
Budapest, 1976
[11] Schmél Ferenc: Cipõfelsõrész-készitõ szakmai ismeret II. Mũszaki Kõnyvkiadó,
Bp, 1986
[12] Dr.Nádasdi Ferenc: Cipõfelsõrész-készitõ szakmai ismeret III.Mũszaki
Kõnyvkiadó, Bp, 1980
[13] Alan H : Understanding footwear. The clothing and Footwear Institute. London
[14] A.Wilhelm: Tip for shoe production. Volume 1: Design
[15] Michael H.Sharp:The pattern cutter’s handbook. SATRA Footwear Technology
Centre 1994
[16] H.J.Patrick: Modern pattern cutting and design. Mobbs & Lewis limited .
England
[17] Jan Pivecka & Siegfried Laure: The shoe last. ISMS. Zlin. Czech Republic 1995
[18] Jarmila Zobacova & Stanislav Velikovsky: Designing and styling of
shoes .ISMS. Zlin 1995