15104

FASHION
BUYING AND
PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT

FARID HOUNKPONOU
i
 contents
SECTION A: VISUAL TREND & RANGE PLAN, RATIONALE AND CONSUMER/ BRAND IDENTIFICATION. 4

A.1 VISUAL RANGE PLAN 5

A.2 RANGE PLAN RATIONALE 19

A.3 CUSTOMER PROFILE 31

SECTION B: SUPPLY CHAIN AND PRODUCTION PROCESS 41

B.1 PRODUCTION FLOW CHART 42

B.2 SUPPLY CHAIN REPORT 43

SECTION C: VISUAL CRITICAL PATH 49

MINI PROJECTS 53

REFERENCING 59

1 2
 introduction

trend concepts and visual

The purpose of this document is a propose range plan for Raf Simons based on three different concepts that will eventually impact on the
Autumn/Winter season 2018-2019.
The range selection is also justified by a rationale showing directives undertaken to put the range together.
Additionally, research methodologies are put in evidence to determine the target consumer and his psychographic profiling.
An analysis of the supply chain and the production process , is explored furthermore within this report. This section highlights the key ethical
and sustainable aspects of the supply chain related to a garment within the range.
Problems represented in the supply chain and production process are discussed with the aim to suggest new alternatives or answers to improve
the sustainable and ethical impact of the garment.

part a: section 1

range plan
3 4
 The most important message Raf Simons wants to
communicate is:

PRIDE IN INDIVIDUALITY.

Always at the core of his universe (and as essential as

the clothes themselves) are attitudes, moods and
statements about individuality and independence.-
RAFSIMONS.COM(2017)

Born in 1968 ,Raf Simons is a Belgian fashion designer

who graduated in industrial design and furniture in
INTRODUCTION 1991.
Following a great amount of acclaims from fashion
industry experts, he was later encouraged to pursue a
career as a fashion designer and founded his
eponymous label Raf by Raf Simons in 2005 which he
later changed to Raf Simons. Driven by his long desire
and love for rebellious youth culture, the brand is a
story tale of the Simons’ s youth where garments are

A.1 VISUAL RANGE PLAN used as vessels to portray the modern youth
personality within its influential surrounding. Art,
music, mood statements are juxtaposed all together on
garments that aim to redefine masculinity and its ideal
representation of silhouette.
The brand offers products ranging from mens and
womens clothing to footwear and accessories.
The label counts only two stores,which are located in
Japan and sell most of its products over 100 stockists
including department stores and online luxury
retailers.

5 6
 DARK AMERICANA

RANGE PLAN 1
AUTUMN/WINTER 2018-2019

7 8
 RAF
RAF

DARK AMERICANA Tee Shirt MENSWEAR A/W 18-19

TRUMPISM
MISIPMURT
TREND CONCEPT
AW18-19

This trend explores the dark

reality of the current world
following the public outcry Short sleeve cotton t-shirt with Short sleeve cotton t-shirt with graphic printed Short sleeve cotton t-shirt with
front graphic written prints. on cut out panel detailings. front Russian print
resulting from the past
100% Cotton 100% Cotton 100% Cotton
American presidential
election. The outcome had been LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK

for most, synonym to darkness.

‘Make American great again’ WEEK 36 1200 pcs WEEK 1 WEEK 36 1200 pcs WEEK 1 WEEK 36 1200 pcs WEEK 1
could also be translated as COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD
make America dark again, with
the word dark symbolizing €32 £225 85.6% 8 WEEKS €36 £285 87% 8 WEEKS €31 £225 85% 8 WEEKS
oppression,pain and division.

Pantone TCX/TPX:
19-4006

Pantone TCX/TPX:
18-3908

Pantone TCX/TPX:
12-4302

Pantone TCX/TPX:
11-0601
Short sleeve cotton t-shirt with Short sleeve cotton t-shirt with
graphic printed detailings. graphic printed detailings.
100% Cotton 100% Cotton

LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK

WEEK 36 1200 pcs WEEK 1 WEEK 36 1200 pcs WEEK 1

COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD

A/W 18-19 €30 £185 83% 8 WEEKS €33 £255 86% 8 WEEKS
9 10
 CONCRETE BRITAIN

RANGE PLAN 2 AUTUMN/WINTER 2018-2019

11 12
 CONCRETE BRITAIN OUTERWEAR MENSWEAR A/W 18-19

TREND CONCEPT
AW18-19

This trend narrates the story

of Britain’s working class by
highlighting key elements that
embodies the reality of the
proletarian culture through
its visuals. In the wake of the
Brexit, this trend also
examines the distinct feel Utility bomber jacket with
that enriches the British digital print
culture in comparison to Made in Italy
80% Nylon 20% Elastane
its European neighbours.
LAUNCH OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK

WEEK 35 1550 WEEK 1

COST PRICE RETAIL INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD
Oversized Wool Chesterfield
Coat with quilted front lapels and €110 £550 86% 15 WEEKS Covert coat with
patchwork detailings digital print patch
Made in Italy Made in Italy
Pantone TCX/
60% Wool,20% Cotton 80% cotton 10% Nylon,
TPX:19-3911
20% Viscose 10% Viscose
Pantone TCX/TPX: LAUNCH OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK
14-1107 LAUNCH OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK
WEEK 40 700 WEEK 1
WEEK 44 500 WEEK 1
Pantone TCX/TPX: COST PRICE RETAIL INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD

18-0510 COST PRICE RETAIL INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD

€160 £1050 20 WEEKS
84%
Oversized sleeve hunter jacket €200 £1499 86.4% 20 WEEKS
Pantone TCX/TPX: with front fastening
Made in Italy Limited edition Raf coat with
17-3914 digital print patches
95% Nylon 5% Elastane
Made in Italy
Pantone TCX/TPX: 80% Nylon 20% Viscose
LAUNCH OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK

WEEK 37 1500 WEEK 1 LAUNCH OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK

Pantone TCX/TPX: WEEK 44 100 WEEK 1

COST PRICE RETAIL INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD
15-1153
€140 £899 84.6% 20 WEEKS COST PRICE RETAIL INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD

Pantone TCX/TPX:
18-1659 A/W 18-19 CONCRETE BRITAIN €290 £3460 91% 20 WEEKS

13 14
 CLEAN GEOMETRY

RANGE PLAN 3
AUTUMN/WINTER 2018-2019

15 16
 A/W 18-19
CLEAN GEOMETRY FOOTWEAR MENSWEAR

TREND CONCEPT
AW18-19

This trend explores from a perspective

the visual geometry that derives from Hi top Velcro I leather sneaker in black Hi top Velcro II sneaker in black leather
and grey leather panel with red contrast Hi top Slim leather sneaker in black and with contrast panel and red rubber front
different elements borrowed in our beige leather panel with contrast panel
front rubber sole 100% sole
modern day. our comtemporary era are 100% Leather 100% Leather
Leather
defined by clean and refined silhouettes Made in Italy Made in Italy Made in Italy
that reminds of a mix of Bauhaus and
monotone Mondrian. LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK

WEEK 36 3750 prs WEEK 1 WEEK 39 6050 prs WEEK 1 WEEK 36 3750 prs WEEK 1
COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD

€105 £470 77 % 15 Weeks €39 £155 74 % 13 WEEKS €110 £470 76% 15 WEEKS

Pantone TCX/
TPX:19-3911

Pantone TCX/TPX:
14-1107

Pantone TCX/TPX:
18-0510

Pantone TCX/TPX:
17-3914
CLEAN GEOMETRY
This range was essentially designed as a
collaboration bewteen Raf Simons and multi
disciplinary artist Farid Hounkponou with the sole
Ski Boot in black and beige leather with Velcro Boot in leather black and grey leather panel with
aim to convey the current youth appeal for sneakers
padded patches and embossed logo fastening on padded ankle and front closure
Pantone TCX/TPX: through a the young artist lens.
100% Leather rubber sole 100%
15-1153 Leather
Made in Italy
Made in Italy
Pantone TCX/TPX: LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK LAUNCH WEEK OPTIONS QUANTITY INCOME WEEK
18-1659
WEEK 44 2520 prs WEEK 3 WEEK 44 1400 prs WEEK 3
A/W 18-19 COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE INTAKE MARGIN SELLING PERIOD

17 €113 £655 82% 20 WEEKS €140 £835 83% 20 WEEKS 18

 A.2 RANGE PLAN RATIONALE
SELLING PERIOD & LAUNCHING PERIOD

The selling period of this range will vary according to the products.
HI-TOPS VELCRO The hi-top Slim sneaker meant to be released early Autumn in the FASHION TRIANGLE
week 39 and the Hi-top boots are due for week 44. The hi-tops
Velcro are released slightly after the summer break to create a
GARMENT SELECTION: transition into the autumn season. In countries with longer
summer period, these Hi-tops will be key items to possess for their
original and contrasting soles. This style in particular will fit any
According to Mintel: “Men are willing to pay trends of this transitional season. The Hi-top sneakers Velcro I and
more for better quality shoes, with almost II will be displayed for selling period of 20 weeks with a 10 week
seven in 10 (68%) males agreeing with target.
this.” (Mintel 2016) The selling time takes for account the early hype around the release of
(http://academic.mintel.com.gcu.idm.oclc.org/ the sneakers during Paris Fashion Week scheduled for late
display/779954/). With this growing January. The prospects are to observe early adopters longing to hit the
interest in quality among men consumers, store within the first week of release. The Hi-top Slim sneaker being
our made in Italy footwear range will cater the most affordable within the range and is due for release
beyond expectation through the quality and the during week 40. The date was determined based on the early HIGH FASHION
aesthetic of our products. Our footwear release of the two Hi Tops Velcro.
are crafted in real leather which is comfortable As the first two will gather more hype on social media, it
HI-TOP SLIM
and also accommodates perfectly with the is predicted to sell out quick and for great fans missing out
Autumn/Winter weather. The footwear range based on their price tag, this Hi top Slim will be the answer. It
remains true to the values of Raf Simons by is an affordable sneaker and therefore expect to sell out
incorporating art with a twist of freshness and within 8 weeks as it will be a great opportunity for many to
elements capturing the zeitgeist of the own a Raf Simons pair of sneaker. Furthermore it is clear
modern youth culture. The range comprises of that early adopters will be hunting for fresher release to separate STAPLE FASHION
a selection of three Hi-tops sneakers and two themselves. In this instance the Ski and Velcro boots late and CORE
boots inspired sneakers. Hi-tops footwear HI-TOP BOOTS limited release are to create more intensive publicity among the loyal
remains an essentials for A/W. and prominent customer base .The boot will be portrayed as the
highly fashionable piece for the Winter season. These boots will
re highlight the particularity of the Raf Simons sneaker by focusing
on reinvented modern silhouettes and shapes through a visual of
craftsmanship. These boots will be displayed for a period of 15 weeks
and beyond.

BASICS

19 20
 LAUNCH WEEK FOR HI-TOP VELCRO BOOT
HI-TOP VELCRO BOOT UK SELLING PERIODS

Launch week dates slightly varies depending on

the market, weather forecast and consumer
behaviours. This example illustrates the launch
week period for the Hi Top Velcro Boot. As
observed the product is first released in Japan. 100
UK This decision was based on the overall
EUROPE outperforming Far-East market where demands
WEEK: 44 (excluding UK) for luxury products have been rising significantly
WEEK: 45 Also due to currency fluctuation, the current
weakness of the Yen represents an appeal factor
for luxury hunters living in the neighboring
countries such as Hong-Kong, China, South
Korea.
In Europe, the market have been considerably
volatile following the Brexit, where it has been a 75
roller-coaster for the pound. Thus attracting
luxury shoppers from the globe.
The Velcro Boot will be considered as a high
fashion piece during the winter period, during
the launch the sales are expecting to rise due to
JAPAN innovators and the following week will see
further sell performance when early adopters
WEEK: 43 and luxury tourist shoppers will arrive in stores.
US & CANADA
50
WEEK: 44

CHINA &
SOUTH KOREA
WEEK: 44

25

WEEK: 44 WEEK: 45 WEEK: 64

21 22
 FINAL QUANTITY= INITIAL QUANTITY + BUFFER

QUANTITY BOSTON MATRIX

RAF SIMONS is a high end labels with a growing cult following that resulted HIGH SHARE LOW SHARE
from the expansion of social media and the celebrity culture influence. The Label

?
is sold within roughly 100 stockist including online stores. The label’s only two
stores including the flagship store, are located in Japan. The majority of the
products are available at department stores and online retailers. Raf Simons
sneakers has successfully maintained an high profile among sneaker heads for
the past 10 years. Hence why any further release from the brand will always draw

QUICK SELLER
attentions from the consumer base. With over 100 stockists worldwide,
retailers will be offered a limited quantity according to the products. For instance
the Hi-top Slim will be released in more quantity based on their lower price tag
and considering that the style have a great probability of being trendy even past
their release season. The two Boots shall be considered as high fashion items and
will therefore observe a limited release.
At high end level, designer sneakers offered roughly 11 different sizes. Every
products in the range will be made in these 11 sizes, however some retailers will
be having more sizes available than others.

A breakdown of the quantity of each product per store shall be:

1200 Pairs 66 Pairs
Hi Top Velcro I & II = 33 pairs per retailer and an extra 110 pairs for both the DOG CASH COW
Flagship and the second store.
Hi-Top Slim = 55 pairs per retailers, with the same number for the Flagship and 100 RETAILERS FLAGSHIP + STORE
the second store.
Ski Boot= 22 pairs per retailer with an extra 88 pairs for the two stores.
Velcro Boot= 11 pairs per retailer with an extra 66 pairs for the two stores.
+
The quantity of pairs per store is estimates based on the style of the product and 10% BUFFER

SLOW SELLER
its selling weeks. Also considering that each products are expected to sell at least
1 pair from each size every weeks during peak selling period which is for some
considered as half their selling period.
For instance the Velcro Boot, which is considered to be an high fashion product,
necessitates to be released in limited quantity. Hence why we only offered 1 pair FINAL QUANTITY= 1400 Pairs
per size to each retailer and 3 pairs per size to the two stores. The calculation
below will be demonstrating the rough quantity evaluated for the Velcro Boot.
LOW DISCOUNT HIGH DISCOUNT
INITIAL QUANTITY= 100 Retailers (1 Pair x 11 sizes ) + (2 Stores x 3 pairs x 11 sizes) = 1266 Pairs

23 24
 COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE COST PRICE RETAIL PRICE
As hunt for quality continue to be a great factor within mens footwear, it is essential for
the brand to maintain its position as High end by offering quality sneakers hand made MADE IN
in Italy for most. The Boots and the Velcro sneakers will be made in Italy and the Hi- ITALY The retail price of certain sneakers such as the Velcro Boot
Top Slim which is the discounted option will be made in Portugal for the low cost of The retail price could be worked out either by considering Some products necessitates a high production cost due to
takes account the scarcity of the product in consideration
production. Even tough the Hi Top Slim are designed to be a more accessible product, it our initial pricing and competitors price, or by considering their challenging level of construction. The Velcro Boot
MADE IN with its complexity of construction. In this case the factor is
was important to carefully consider the country of production in order to maintain the ITALY the country of production factor. appears as a clear example to illustrate this case.
multiplied by 1.8 or 2.
brand high status intact. Production in Italy is a lot more expensive than anywhere else , Made in Italy is highly sought after and therefore the
Therefore based on a factor of 9 , the retail price could be
however it helps to reinforce the UPS of the label by suggesting high quality and making production factor could be estimate at 5.
worked out as follow:
the label attractive. Every sneakers is made in leather and all components and trims are FINAL COST PRICE Therefore based on our production factor, The retail price
provided within the country of origin. The final cost of production will be including a could be worked out as follow: FINAL COST PRICE
10% uplift destinated for road tranportation.
Cost of production could be calculated based on the composition, materials and CMT
Below is the breakdown of the costing price for each products.
COST PRICE + 10% UPLIFT
COST PRICE + 10% UPLIFT
VELCRO HI-TOP I RETAIL PRICE
VELCRO BOOT RETAIL PRICE

Components: €20 Cost Price: €95 Leather Cost : €47

Leather Cost : €40 Components: €40 Cost Price: €127
+ Cost Price: €105 Cost Price: €140
+
Leather Cost : €40 x x x
Leather Cost : €47 x
+ COUNTRY PRODUCTION FACTOR
COUNTRY PRODUCTION FACTOR
5
+ 7
CMT: €35 0.1 x
x CMT: €40 0.1
Exchange rate at 1€= 0.85£
Exchange rate at 1€= 0.85£
COST PRICE = €95 + 9.5 UPLIFT
COST PRICE = €127 + 12.7
CMT: €35
RETAIL PRICE = £ 449 CMT: €40 RETAIL PRICE = £ 835
Components: €40
Components: €20
FINAL COST PRICE= €105
FINAL COST PRICE= €140
25 26
 INTAKE MARGIN
The Net Margin calculation is determined using the following
formula:

(RETAIL PRICE /VAT - COST PRICE) x 100

RETAIL PRICE /VAT
In reference to the retail, it is also important to analyze current pricing
architecture of Raf Simons or its closest competitors. In this case, a close
observation on Raf Simons pricing architecture from the Edited app
demonstrates that sneakers/trainers from Raf Simons have price tags INTAKE MARGIN FOR HI-TOP VELCRO I
ranging between £234 and £1853. These figures eventually back up our
initial retail price set for the sneaker range “Clean Geometry”.
This Intake Margin is evaluated according to a VAT estimated at
20%.

(EDITED 2017)
[£405/1.2)- £93] x 100
= 76%
405 / 1.2

RAF SIMONS PRICING ARCHITECTURE

The gross margin indicating 76%, demonstrates the lucrative aspects

of the sneaker range. This margin takes in consideration the Vat rate ,
giving a better option for customers not based locally and therefore will
allow them to claim a VAT refund when leaving the UK /EU zone.

27 28
INTAKE MARGIN INTAKE MARGIN
The Net Margin calculation is determined using the following
formula: The Net Margin calculation is determined using the following
formula:
(RETAIL PRICE /VAT - COST PRICE) x 100
RETAIL PRICE /VAT (RETAIL PRICE /VAT - COST PRICE) x 100
RETAIL PRICE /VAT

INTAKE MARGIN FOR HI-TOP VELCRO BOOT

INTAKE MARGIN FOR HI-TOP SLIM

This Intake Margin is evaluated according to a VAT estimated at 20%.

This Intake Margin is evaluated according to a VAT estimated at 20%.

[£835/1.2)- £119] x 100

= 83% [£155/1.2)- £33] x 100
835 / 1.2 = 74%
155 / 1.2

The gross margin indicating 83%, demonstrates the lucrative aspects of

the Boot section within the range. This margin takes in consideration Overall the sneaker range displays good figures within its margins, with
the Vat rate , giving a better option for customers not based locally and the high certainty that these sneakers will be hugely sought after, the
therefore will allow them to claim a VAT refund when leaving the UK / company will plan for a further collaborations in order to follow the
EU zone. path of the Clean Geometry range which has been a collaboration
between multi disciplinary designer Farid Hounkponou and
Raf Simons.
Theses margins take in consideration the Vat rate , giving a better option
for customers not based locally and therefore will allow them to claim a
VAT refund when leaving the UK /EU zone.

29 30
 CONSUMER PROFILE

31 32
 PRIMARY RESEARCH

HASHTAG RAF SIMONS TRENDY

-What do you love about
Raf Simons ?

T he primary research was first

conducted within the store,
Instgram was the
primary social media app that came in mind
-Age ?
- Cop the last Yeezy ?
-Profession ?
precisely at Selfridges , where a set of based their functional use of image sharing - Comfort, Quality or
questions has been answered by sale to display lifestyle/personality/style or Aesthetics ? pick one
- Nationality ?
assistants who described the Raf promote diversity. Using instagram was an
Simons consumers as young, rich easy way of echoing our consumers profile - 2 or 3 designers items
and highly pretentious. following the store trip. bought in the last 6 month ?
Another trip to the Dover street These images displayed on this page were the
market concession, appeared crucial outcome of the Hashtag Raf Simons. There -Countries visited in the
in the initial research. There, it was are many common signs and connotations past year.
revealed that 7 out of 10 consumers on these images that could summerise their
were Asian and the other 3 being personalities as wealthy young rebel - Top 3 cities in Europe?
GLOBE-TROTTER
rich domestic kids. The majority of fashionistas. INDIVIDUALITY
these customers dress in a very
casual and street like attire composed FASHION FORWARD INNOVATOR
of other high end designer brand.
-Music genre?
Their style could be described as
high end streetwear.
-Favorite artist?
Approaching these consumers for
questionnaire was a particular
-Style influencer?
experience, knowing that they are
all wealthy and mostly young, the
- 3 favorite colours?
best option was to start an informal
conversation by asking their opin-
-How often do you shop - Weekend activities?
ions regarding the label followed by
couple of other questions regarding for designer sneakers?
- Concert or Festival?
their personality and shopping
habit. Based on informations - 3 words to describe
your style. - Hobbit? music/gym/sport
received from 5 out of 6 customers
and the sale assistant, it is revealed
- -Top 3 designer sneak- - Favorite magazine ?
that most consumers knew the
products they were buying in ers?
advance. This indicates that these
consumers had previous research - In-store or Online
carried about the wanted items Shopping?
through a medium which could AFFLUENT SHOW OFF
inevitably be social media. REBELLIOUS
33 PRETENTIOUS 34
SECONDARY RESEARCH

HASHTAG RICH KIDS

The Sixth Continent Luxurians reported in LSN

examines this wealthy tribe for which traveling is an
Report from forecasting sites such as LSN highlight- essential part of their lifestyle. Their engagement in the
discovery of new culture mainly the western culture.
ed the rise of affluent millennial who most are entre- remains a driving factor for European luxury brands.
preneurs and shops for luxury goods all across the These consumers are highly affluent and therefore buy
globe. The majority of them come from Asia, which out of pleasure and satisfaction.
emphasize the steady economic growth of the Asian
market. These consumers have in the past years double
their Europeans flight inbounds which point out their
fondness of the western culture. They mainly come
from a wealthy social background which empowers
their buying habits and tendency for niche and high
end products.
In this sense, they appear as potential consumers in
the luxury market.
Luxury brands have recently taken notice of this new
Overall, these two tribes show many similarities with the
Raf Simons consumers. They are in majority born in
wave of consumers and aim high to connect with them nouveau rich family which instead of being snob and formal,
by improving their social media presence and are rather casual with an informal dressing style that boast of
redefining their online shopping site. high end designer products with an excessive sense of indi-
vidualism.
below is a visual interpretation of the consumer profile.

35 36
 STATUS SYMBOL

MOOD

YOUTH

SUBVERSIVE
STATEMENT

URBAN

CONSUMER PROFILE
37 38
 CREATIVE INDUSTRY JOB
DEMOGRAPHIC DEMOGRAPHIC PSYCHOGRAPHIC PROFILE

LIVES IN BIG CITIES SUCH AS TOKYO,SEOUL, BEIJING, PARIS,LONDON

Teens 20 Yo Young Adults

RICH KIDS
MILLENIAL
SINGLE
EUROPEAN

29 Yo
D.C CHINA
NY SOUTH
LA KOREA

INNOVATOR
JAPAN

STUDENTS
EARLY LATE LATE LAGGARD
AGE ADOPTER
13.5%
ADOPTER
34%
MAJORITY
34%
16%

SDN

THESE CONSUMERS ARE EITHER INNOVATOR OR EARLY ADOPTERS

LIVES IN THE CITY -OWNS AT LEAST TWO DESIGNERS SHOES

75% -BOUGHT AT LEAST ONE LUXURY PRODUCT IN THE LAST 6 MONTH
-SHOPS FOR DESIGNER SHOES ONLINE

-SHOPS FOR DESIGNER SHOES ONLINE

HIGH DISPOSABLE
INCOME
60%
80% DISLIKES FAST FASHION LABELS
-LISTEN TO RAP/TRAP MUSIC
-LOVES GOING TO CONCERTS
GRADESABC1

60% -SHOPS FOR LABELS WITH EXTRAVAGANT BRANDINGS

-MIX MATCH BRANDS SUCH AS YEEZY, GOSHA, VETEMENTS
39 40
 B.1 PRODUCTION PLAN FLOW CHART

Supply Chain and Production

GARMENT
YARN MILLS TEXTILE COMPANIES MANUFACTURERS DISTRIBUTION SALES
RAF
RAF

This section examines the process of the production plan of a t-shirt from
NATURAL YARN SINGLE KNIT FINISHED RETAIL OUTLETS
GARMENT SHIPPING, STORAGE
the Americana range plan. It also explains through a visual chart all steps JERSEY FABRIC
and efforts accomplished through transparency from our initial material
FIBRES Spinning Weaving & knitting Dyeing, Printing &
Designing, cutting, & DISTRIBUTION Air or Sea Freight
Cotton,Wool, Silk etc... sewing, ironing & Air, Sea Freight,Warehousing &
finishing
sourcing to the final product delivery. button holing Distribution HARVEY NICHOLS
Egyptian Spinning & Egyptian Spinning &
100% Cotton Weaving Company
Miroglio Textiles Srl MAESTRAMI DHL Department Store
Weaving Company
Egypt Bologna, Italy
SELFRIDGES
Giza Egypt Giza, Egypt Valle Tanaro,Italy
BOLOGNA, ITALY
Department Store
IMPORT IMPORT IMPORT IMPORT
MR PORTER

TESTING REQUIRED Online Department Store

TESTING REQUIRED Charlton Gate
Business Park FARFETCH
London, UK
MAN-MADE Online Department Store

FIBRES SSENSE

Process
Rayon, Polyester,
Nylon etc...
Online Department Store
WATER COLOUR MAX IRON CARE STRETCH/

part b
RESISTANCE FASTNESS TEST CODES RECOVERY
BS 4339 BS 1006 BS 7305 BS EN 23758 BS 4952 PPK Logistics THEOUTNET
Resistance of fabric Colour fastness of tex- Determination of the Textiles care labelling Stretch & recovery of
to water absorption tiles & leather maximum safe ironing
temperature of fabrics
code using symbols fabrics
London, UK Discount Retailer

RAW MATERIAL NETWORK IMMEDIATE GOODS NETWORK PRODUCTION NETWORK EXPORT NETWORK MARKETING NETWORK

41 42
 FABRIC PRODUCTION COUNTRY
B.2 SUPPLY CHAINS REPORT:
The Dark Americana range consists essentially of “The country of origin is one factor in value
creation” Hines (2015, p136)
jersey T-shirts made from 100% cotton. This cotton
has been carefully sourced in Egypt, specifically in
Giza where it was spinned and single knitted in all its Selecting Italy as the country for production was

ETHICAL
splendour. The use of a single raw material, being decisive, despite the high costs of production
cotton derives from its insulating capability along with offered, Made in Italy provide in return a good
its rich character compared to other materials. number of selling points. Italy has long been
SHORT SLEEVE RAF Cotton is an insulator, which allows the garment to referred as a country where designs and
fully adapt to diverse seasons. The common perception
GRAPHIC PRINT for seasonal use of a T-shirt could mainly be attributed
craftsmanship have constantly forged a history
along with a rich culture based on the love and quest
to summer or warm weather. However releasing this for perfection. The quality and the distinct finish on
T-shirt range for autumn can highlight the potential a made in Italy product triggered a large interest for
use of a well-constructed T-shirt made from 100% luxury brands to outsource goods from Italy.
quality Egyptian cotton.
RAF
RAF The Raf Simon label has identified theimportance
Overall, Egyptian cotton is notorious for its silky grade to reiterate the brand position among other
and rich texture. It also boasts from its great luxury brands by offering uniqueness, longevity,
character due to its mechanical properties. However, safety and quality to its consumers. It is also
not only the range is made from 100% essential as a luxury brand to keep track of the
Egyptian cotton, the main particularity is the type supply chain by producing within the continent,
of cotton fibre being utilised in our range. GIZA 45, thus facilitating the supply chain management and
known in other terms as the Queen of cotton and listed also reducing various risks during the process. The
as one of the most sought after graded Cotton in the high cost of production also ensures that labour
world, stands by a long mile within distance to other costs are covered efficiently within the production
varieties. The Giza 45 benefits from its valuable process thus complying with ethical policies.
extra-long staple Furthermore, this range entirely made in Italy will
fibre often reaching 50 mm. In Addition to its superior

SUSTAINABILITY
offer retail price with high markups, simply due to
qualities, the Giza 45 is composed of fine fibre along their undisputed quality of the products.
with a high uniformity index with micronaire value as Consumers perceive the Raf Simon label as status
low as 2.95-( Truthaboutthreadcount.com.) symbols, therefore it is deemed vital to provide in
This highly graded cotton enjoys attributes that evoke term of quality, tailoring, and accurate finish
premium quality, finesse, comfort and durability. mconsidering the large presence of graphic prints
Raf Simon as a luxury brand remains dedicated to around this range.
providing high-quality products to its consumers by
underlining the uniqueness of the fabric origin.

43 44
 CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR TO SUSTAINABILITY BY RAF SIMONS
SALES STRATEGY METHODS

SUSTAINABILITY/ETHICAL ANALYSIS CONSUMER

TRANSPORT MODE SALE METHODS In addition to the sustainable life cycle of the Raf
Simon’s garments, the initial fabric sourcing is mainly to
be considered as effective for the brand ethical aspect.
“ In the supply chain products should flow as if
With the growing concern regarding climate change The Giza 45 is a rare type of Egyptian cotton, produced
According to Mintel, the luxury market continues and the impact it have on our lifestyles and eco-systemes, in small scale, thus demanding less to no pesticides and
passing through a pipeline.” Virginia Grose (2012,
to enjoy a steady growth, rising by 10.4% in 2015. the fashion industry have been comprised to address water consumption in comparison to other varieties of
p116). RETAIL WHOLESALE
Luxury brands are expanding to new emerging these issues and raise thE awareness of sustainable cottons. Considering its scarcity, this type of cotton is
DISTRIBUTION DISTRIBUTION fashion. According to Forbes magazine : “The apparel
market such as the Far East, Russia and the high in value due to the cost of hard larbour to maintain
As mentioned earlier on, outsourcing our Middle East. These regions have observed over the industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions cultivation. The company aims to encourage the
products in Italy will help monitor the supply chain past few years a remarkable economic growth and remains the second largest industrial polluter, continuity of this cycle by complying to the high price
with a better visibility. In this perspective, resulting in a rise of High net income individuals. second only to oil.” which assures a good remuneration for farmers.
investing in an efficient logistic will remain a These individuals have long shown a great appetite Nowadays, consumers mainly millennial tends to be BRAND DEVOTION
The cost of production in Italy similarly touches on the
priority to maintain the great functioning of the for Western luxury brands. The Raf Simons aware of the ongoing pollution generated by the fashion UNIQUE POSSESOR ethical aspect where working conditions and labour
FLAGSHIP DEPARTMENT
supply chain. For these reasons, the company’s label takes account their targets consumers in STORE industry. wages are fairly met to the expectation. Artisans and
STORE STATUS SYMBOLS
mission is to partner along with a company order to design a sale and marketing strategy, that By assessing millennial as the main consumers, the Raf skilled workers within Italian factories are mostly locals
established in logistic expertise such as DHL, to will be profitable and flexible to operate. The brand’s Simon company aims to tackle this scourge being textile who has been trained within the factory to master the
pollution by primarily reducing the label’s carbon INNOVATOR
deliver on the promises set from the critical path. initial idea is to retain its luxury and conceptual craft of garment construction. Raf Simons cherishes
Based on the geographic location of the factory, the status by offering very limited edition products. footprint and invest in an efficient supply chain this slow fashion cycle where humans are the makers of
transportation of the products will be effectuated The brand is to adopt a retail and wholesale management model. greatness. This slow fashion promotes sufficient
within a favourable lead time by road trucks and distribution. The retail distribution focus on the STORE ONLINE researches in eco-friendly fabrics and a demand for a
additionally allow the possibilities of backloading flagship and mid-store in Japan, which is the
BRAND DEPARTMENT “The apparel industry accounts for 10% of meticulous attention to details.
when necessary. EMBASSADORS STORE
perfect location for the high number of the brand’s global carbon emissions and remains the The garment is constructed using a cotton 205 GSM fit to
Tracking during the delivery process will be made consumers living in the Far-East. The two Japan’s suit both A/W and S/S to advise consumer of the
easy as road deliveries within Europe are not second largest industrial polluter, second possibilities of the garment reuse inbewteen season.
stores will be the ideal spot for consumers
subject to customs duty and complex border interested in in-store experience. On the contrary, only to oil.” - Forbe 2015
controls until reaching the UK. Moreover , returns the wholesale distribution appears as a guarantee With no disregard to the reality that conventional
of garments will be handled with all transparency CONCESSION Raf Simons carters to consumers with a considerable

INFLUENCE
to liquidate 3/4 of the initial order volume. Accord- CARE LABEL methods in the supply chain means high costs, the
DEPARTMENT EXCLUSIVE USE
either from the distribution center to the factory NICHE knowledge of high fashion who seek unique products TREATMENT
ing to Mintel: “department stores are the retailer of STORE company seeks to continue complying with ethical
or vice versa. Inventories of products will be made STORE that evokes the founder’s ideal perception of policies and also innovating in new alternatives to
choice for luxury goods, attracting more
by DHL with the target of reducing any preventing consumers than stand-alone brand stores”. individualism through mix elements captured from the LOW LAUNDERING
HIGHLY VALUED promote sustainable fashion.
cost. (Mintel 2016) youth culture, art and music. The garments appear more
With the label studio based in Paris, the first In order to capitalise on the wholesale model, it is as conceptual than everyday fashion. It falls in the slow Furthermore, the company plans to invest in “Made in
samples made are scheduled to arrive on time as CONSUMER fashion category for the faculty to provide fashion with a
essential to target luxury department stores Britain’ following the Brexit outcome. This future plan
Italy and France share an open land border, sharing the same appeal as the Raf Simons label. feel of deep longing. will help reducing the brand’s carbon footprint caused
ENERGY SAVING
facilitating free movement of goods with no This strategy also favours global promotion By creating an emotional bridge between the consumer through its logistic distribution. Also considering both
restrictions. In addition to the sudio location, through the clearer coverage of the brand being and the product, the Raf Simon label achieves to incite the possible changes of EU laws on intellectual properties
truckloads of products coming from France to sold via department stores. Although wholesale consumer to use products only when necessary due to and also the growing demand of Made In Britain within
London precisely in Charlton will find the margins tends to be lower compare to direct their high cost and scarcity. the continent, this future plan has a target to maximise
warehouse easily accessible via the A2 and the A20 retailing, the advantage is the cost reduction These achievements are mainly observed through the profits while embracing the sustainable and ethical
motorway. prevented by minimising overheads. cycle life of a Raf Simon product (right image). possibilities of creating a new supply chain within the
45
SUSTAINABILITY UK.
46
 FUTURE INITATIVES

In order to improve the ethical and sustainable aspect of supply chain, the Raf
Simon brand endeavours to move part of its production to the UK.
The UK has the potential to develop a green and more transparent textile indus-
SENSE OF POSSESSION
try solely focusing on ethical and sustainable issues. With the government help,
Britain can attract new investors if its textile industry is restored and promotes
ethical fashion. Following the industrial revolution, Britain has been the world
largest manufacturer. Nowadays, the kingdom have lost its status, following the
emergence of the Asian market where competitive production costs have
attracted the world attention.
However a growing interest in Made in Britain within Europe, could be the
opportunity for Britain to re position itself.

ETHICAL
In this perspective, the brand Raf Simons plans to create a new line ‘Raf by ES’
that focus solely on ethical & sustainable Made in Britain T-shirt. The company
also has an aim to collaborate with councils in order to address ethical &
sustainable issues and provide apprenticeships within mini-factories(where the
shirts are made) for job-hunters and young unemployed. This project will set a 5
years targets with huge ambitions and expectations in order to impact on social
and economical views regarding ethics and sustainability.

PERSPECTIVES
SLOW FASHION
47 48
 This section proposes a visual analysis of the critical path for the Utility Bomber Jacket.
It visually pin points all the steps undertaken from the research, production to the period the garment arrived in
the store. It is important for buyers to relate to their critical path in order to assure that garment arrives in store as
scheduled.

CRITICAL PATH
parT C
49 50
ILLUSTRATED CRITICAL PATH Total Lead Time: 46 Weeks
UTILITY BOMBER JACKET

TREND RANGE BUILDING CAD RANGE GARMENT GARMENT LAB - DIPS

RESEARCHING & DESIGN SIGN OFF COSTING SPECIFICATIONS COLOUR DECISIONS

UTILITY BOMBER JACKET

Competitor shopping, international The designer’s design Once the range is designed the Once the range is designed the buyer Once the range is ‘signed off ’ and Final colours are decided and
buying trips, trade show visits, best ‘The Range’ designer presents it to the buyers starts liaising with factories to ‘costings’ are in, detailed lab-dips are received in house
& worst seller analysis,WGSN & while constantly liaising with buyers on paper at a negotiate ‘costings’ for ‘spec sheets’ are sent out to ready to finally confirm colours
Perclers researching to create for their feedback on previous best ‘CAD sign-off ’. production. Once they have factories to get initial ready for production.
‘Trend Boards’ & worst sellers etc... narrowed down possible factories ‘samples’ of garments.
to present to buyers & suppliers. they send them ‘specs’ for ‘sampling’.
Start Date: 14th August 2017 Start Date: 3rd Oct 2017 Sign Off Date: 17th November 2017 Cost Factory : Maestrami Start Date: 20th November 2017 Final Colour Decision:
Complete by: 2nd October 2017 Complete by: 15th November 2017 Weeks: 14 Sent by: 27th November 2017 29th November 2017
Weeks: 1-8 Weeks: 8-14 Weeks: 14-15 Weeks: 15

RANGE GARMENT PO NUMBERS GOLD SEAL FINAL CUT/KNIT

SAMPLING FITS RAISED SAMPLE SIGN-OFF START DATE

The buyer communicates with The garment tech does detailed fits Once the garment is about to Once everyone is happy with the Once all the “Gold Seal’ samples Once the ‘Gold Seal’ sample has
factories and sends them detailed throughout the sample stage to make approach ‘Gold Seal’ standard a sample received it is given are back in house they are racked received final ‘Sign Off ’ and is
‘Tech Packs’ for costing. Samples sure the range is perfect. Feedback is ‘PO number’ is raised to help track ‘Gold Seal’ approval and presented up & presented to the designers, ready to go into production
are developed of the range until relayed to the factory until everything is the manufacturing, shipping, freight at ‘Final Sign-Off ’. buyers & merchandisers at ‘Final factories are given the go ahead to
they are perfect and ready for perfect and the buyer is ready for ‘Gold etc... process. Sign Off ’ ready for factory to start cut fabrics/start knitting!
‘Gold Seal’ approval. Seal’ sampling. cutting/knitting.
Start Date: 1st December 2017 Start Date: 13 Jan 2018 PO’s Raised: Gold Seal Sample Deadline: Sign Off Date: 26th Februrary 2018 Start Date: 28th February 2018
Complete by: 12th Jan 2018 Complete by: 16th Jan 2018 20th February 2018 23rd February 2018
Weeks: 15-21 Weeks: 22 Weeks: 23 Weeks: 23 Weeks: 24 Weeks: 24

RANGE DATE THE ORDER TRUCK ROAD WAREHOUSE UK IN-STORE

PRODUCTION LEAVES THE FACTORY RECEIVED DISTRIBUTION DATE

The factory now bulk In order for the garments to arrive in The most economical way of getting Stock arrives in the UK and is The order is received and then At the end of the processed the
manufactures the whole range store for the planned time, the order goods delivered to the UK is to have stored in a warehouse ready for sorted in the warehouse before garment/range enters in-store and
according to deadlines the buyers must leave the factory on-time. It’s them shipped. If you are working on distribution to each store. being distributed to each UK store must be displayed on the shop
and merchandises have important this date is met so it is a a tighter lead time it may be ready for sale. floor on-time ready for sales. This
implemented. major deadline. necessary to get them delivered by is the final date in the
air which is more expensive. ‘Critical Path’
Start Date: 2nd March 2018 Ready to leave Factory: Shipped: 6th August 2018 Received in Warehouse: Leaves Warehouse: In-Store Date: 51 52
Complete by: 1st August 2018 4th August 2018 Due In UK: 17th August 2018 18th August 2018 25th August 2018 1st September 2018
Weeks: 24-45 Weeks: 45 Weeks: 46-47 Weeks: 47 Weeks: 48 Weeks: 46
 GARMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET
GARMENT: JERSEY POLO SHIRT STYLE NO: RP233 FACTORY: BAM - Sri Lanka

SEASON: SPRING DATE REQUIRED: 22/04/2017 LAUNCH WEEK: 16

QUANTITY: 2000 OPTIONS: 3 colour options BUYER: Gabriel Frith
MINI PROJECT A MINI PROJECT B SAMPLE SIZE: GARMENT TECH: Emily Randles
M
BRIEF DESCRIPTION: Polo Shirt jersey with flat knit collar and front Letter print

COLOURED FRONT VIEW

GROUP F:
You are a new Athletics brand positioned in a mid high street
sector of the market
KEY COMPETITORS:
Adidas, Puma, Nike
RUNNING
SPORTS BRA YOGA TOP
TROUSER
FACTORY TO PLACE ORDER WITH: FACTORY TO PLACE ORDER WITH: FACTORY TO PLACE ORDER WITH:
Flat knit tipped cuffs with
MAS FACTORY MAS FACTORY SQUARE Lycra

CROSS COST CROSS COST CROSS COST CROSS COST CROSS COST CROSS COST
FACTORY 1: FACTORY 2: FACTORY 1: FACTORY 2: FACTORY 1: FACTORY 2:
HIRDRAMANI WEARWELL HIRDRAMANI WEARWELL MAS FACTORY WEARWELL

EST. QUANTITY ESTIMATED ESTIMATED EST. QUANTITY ESTIMATED ESTIMATED EST. QUANTITY ESTIMATED ESTIMATED
YOU WOULD TOTAL COST YOU WOULD TOTAL COST YOU WOULD TOTAL COST
ORDER LEAD PRICE: ORDER LEAD PRICE: ORDER LEAD PRICE:
PER PRODUCT: TIME: PER PRODUCT: TIME: PER PRODUCT: TIME:

15 15 15 MAIN FABRIC: -60/ 2 PIQUE JERSEY 170 - 180 GSM LINING: Cotton
25,000 WEEKS
£202,500 25,000 WEEKS
£202,500 40,000 WEEKS
£101,000
ARTWORK:
WASH: Garment softening wash PRINT
TRIMS: -18L BRANDED MATT BUTTONS
-3X BUTTONS, GROWN ON PLACKET

COLOURS: Stitching Buttons Neck Rib

53 54

18-4247 tpx 19-4024 tpx 19-4024 tpx 18-4247 tpx INITIAL COLOURS FOR LAB DIPS
 GARMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET GARMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET
GARMENT: JERSEY POLO SHIRT STYLE NO: RP233 FACTORY: BAM - Sri Lanka GARMENT: JERSEY POLO SHIRT STYLE NO: RP233 FACTORY: BAM - Sri Lanka

X 2nd SAMPLE: 3rd SAMPLE: GOLD PRODUCTION AP-

ARTWORK DETAILS
BLACK & WHITE FRONT VIEW

artwork width 13 cm

artwork length 25 cm

1. FULL 68 cm SAMPLE M OTHER SIZE: XS, S, M, L, XL

2. CHEST 48.5 cm FIT & SILHOUETTE DESCRIPTION: ARTWORK/EMBELLISHMENT DESCRIPTION:
E.G Basic fit, slim silhouette younger boys t-shirt. with 3 Colours sublimation placement print to centre front of t-shirt.
3. WIDTH AT WAIST- 52 cm

4. NECK 9 cm TESTING REQUIREMENTS:

All fastenings, artwork, chemical treatments etc to comply with EU menswear safety regulations
- see retailers handbook for guidance. Full xray and quality control measures to be carried out at
5. ARM- 26 cm factory before shipping. ARTWORK COLOURS:
ARTWORK PLACE- PRINT 55 56

STITCHING: Twin needle DTM stitching to all FASTEN- 3 buttons on placket 18-2328 tpx 11-4202tpx 19-4305 tpx
MINI PROJECT D

product thumbnail Date specification sent Supplier Product name Fabric Colour Cost price RP Country of Origin Factory code Station Total Buy Qty Order Number

Utility
80% Nylon 20% Natural Cream
27 November 2017 Maestram Bomber € 121 £550.00 Italy MSTRM Bologna 2,000 BHS2016
Elastane) Slub
Jacket

Oversized
Sleeve 95% Nylon
27 November 2017 Maestrami Leaden Gray € 140 £890 Italy MSTRM Bologna 1,500 RFM1802
Hunter 5% Elastane
Jacket

60% Wool
Chesterfield
27 November 2017 Maestrami 20% Cotton Dun grey wool € 200 £1,490 Italy MSTRM Bologna 500 RFM1803
Coat
20% Viscose

80% Cotton
27 November 2017 Maestrami Covert Coat 10% Nylon Camel Brown € 160 £1,050 Italy MSTRM Bologna 700 RFM1804
10% Viscose

Limited Raf 80% Nylon

27 November 2017 Maestrami Dusty Mustard € 290 £3,460 Italy MSTRM Bologna 100 RFM1805
Coat 20% Viscose

58
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