The Professional Chef

essional chef
N IN TH EDITION
The Culinary Institute of America

ure
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CIN
STITUTE
ÂMERICAJ
T H E W O R L D 'S P R E M IE R
C U LIN A R Y C O LLEG E
This book is printed on acid-free paper. @

Copyright 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
THE C ULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

President
Vice-President, Dean of Culinary Education
Dr. Tim Ryan 1 1

Mark Erickson '77
Senior Director, Educational Enterprises
Susan Cussen
Director of Publishing
Nathalie Fischer
Editorial Project Managers
Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00
Editorial Assistants
Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell 08
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ISBN: 978-0-470-42 135-2 (cloth)
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Master Recipe List
v iii
Acknowledgments
xvi
Introduction
xv iii
PART ONE
essional
IN TRODUCTION TO THE/PROFESSION
M ENUS AND RECIPES
IB
THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE

FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY
23
31
PART TW O
tools and ingredients in the

professional kitchen
chap ter 5
E Q U IPM EN T IDENTIFICATIO N
Chapter 6
MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME ID ENTIFIC ATION
chapter 7
FISH AND SHE LLFISH ID EN TIFICATIO N
chapter 8
FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB ID EN TIFICATION
Chapter 9
D AIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND ID ENTIFIC ATIO N
chapter 10
DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION
43
199
69
99
181
127
PARTTHREE
stocks, sauces, and soups

c h a p te r !!
MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
chapter 12
STOCKS
253
chapter 13
SAUCES
267
chap ter 14
SOUPS
239
301
PART FO U R
meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish

chapter 15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SH ELLFISH
chapter 16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH
chapter 17 GRILLING, BROILING, AND ROASTING
375
423
Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING

chapter 19 STEAM ING AND SU BM ER SIO N COOKING
chaptei-2 0
BRAISING AND STEWING
361
487
531
571
P A R T F IV E
vegetables, potatoes, grains and

legumes, and pasta and dumplings
chapter 21
MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS
chapter 22
COOKING VEGETABLES
chapter 23
COOKING POTATOES
chapter 24
COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES
chapter 25
COOKING PASTA AND D U M P LIN G S
647
713
751
807
617

*' - t
: ,:k .
P A R T S IX
..
COOKING EGGS
Chapter 27
SALAD DRESSINGS AND S A LA D S
chapter 28
SAN DW ICH ES
chapter 29
HORS D'OEUVRE AND A PPETIZER S
chapter 30
C HARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER
847
#
7 t
fV V
- I P
Si g p
breakfast and garde manger

chapter 26
.4
S 1
.
* -
V -I
* 4
879
> / -
'
931
'* r .
^ '
945
t ' ^
i'*
f
985
- Txr,
JL
PART S EVEN
baking and pastry

chapter 31 BAKING MISE EN PLACE
chapter 32 YEAST BREADS
1015
%
1025
Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS
1047
r
Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES
1091
nr.:. d
chapter 35
FILLIN G S, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES
1107
;Q
chapter 36
PLATED DESSERTS
1161
Glossary
1167
J fl
Readings and R esources

Recipe Index
S u b je c tln d e x
1185
1191
1202
>>
1131
,
A pp en d ix
%"
T_
fS
p -
,< >.
master recipe list

chapter 12 stocks
Chicken Stock
Hollandaise Sauce
263
MALTAISE SAUCE
WHITE VEAL STOCK
263
WHITE BEEF STOCK
Beurre Blanc
263
Brown Veal Stock
263
BROWN GAME STOCK (JU S DE

G IB IE R ) 2 6 4
ESTOUFFADE
298
MOUSSELINE SAUCE
298
299
Puree of Lentil Soup
Pesto
Puree of Split Pea Soup 3 4 5
299
264
PIMIENTO BUTTER
BROWN PORK STOCK
264
GREEN ONION BUTTER
BROWN DUCK STOCK
DILL BUTTER
264
SHELLFISH STOCK
264
Vegetable Stock 2 6 5
Court Bouillon
Caribbean-Style Puree of
Black Bean Soup 3 4 5
30 0
300
Senate Bean Soup
300
Vichyssoise
BASIL BUTTER
Shrimp Bisque
30 0
Beef Consomme
CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE.
Royale Custard
Ichi Ban Dashi
Chicken Broth 3 3 4
333
333
chapter 13 sauces
293
293
JUS DE CANARD LIE
LAM B BROTH
293
JUS D'AGNEAU LIE:
FISH BROTH
293
Onion Soup
Espagnole Sauce 2 9 4
Chicken Veloute
FISH VELOUTE
294
SHRIMP VELOUTE
Bechamel Sauce
CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE

MORNAYSAUCE
CREAM SAUCE
CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE

CELER I) 3 3 9
296
297
M IN T SAUCE (P A L O I5 E S A U C E )
CHORONSAUCE
v iii
339
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME

A R G E N T E U IL ) 3 3 9
295
Bolognese M ea t Sauce
(Ragu Bolognese) 2 9 6
Bearnaise Sauce
33 6
297
M A S T E R REC IPE LIST
Vegetable Soup, Emilia

Romagna Style (Minestrone
alia Emiliana) 3 5 7
Minestrone
357
Cream of Broccoli Soup 33 9
295
295
Tomato Sauce 2 9 5
Tomato Coulis
33 5
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP W ITH

RICE 3 3 9
295
354
Tuscan W hite Bean and

Escarole Soup 3 5 5
335
Cream of Tomato Soup

294
Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut

M ilk and Galangal 3 5 3
W ontonSoup
335
Chicken Rice Soup (Canja)
294
VEG ETABLEVELOUTE
353
Thai Hot and Sour Soup

(Tom Yum Kung) 3 5 4
33 5
ONION SOUP GRATINEE
Tortilla Soup
294
334
334
WHITE ONION SOUP
294
SUPREME SAUCE
Spicy Beef Soup

( Yukkaejang) 351
Miso Soup
334
SHELLFISH BROTH
Demi-Glace 2 9 3
334
334
TURKEY OR GAME BROTH
293
JUS DE GIBIER LIE
334
HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH
JUS DE VO LAILLE LIE
348
Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian

Gazpacho) 34 9
Chinese Hot and Sour Soup

(Suan La Tang) 3 5 0
334
VEAL BROTH
Ju sd e V eau L ie
347
Ham Bone and Collard

Greens Soup 3 5 0
AM ISH CORN AND CHICKEN

SOUP 3 3 4
BEEF BROTH:
34 7
Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo
333
Poultry and M ea t Stock

(Brodo) 2 6 6
266
34 6
346
Lobster Bisque (Bisque

de Homard) 3 4 8
265
265
Potage Garbure
SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANO

BUTTER 300
chapter 14 soups
ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK
344
PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEA

SOUP 345
300
BROWN LAM B STOCK
Fish Fum et 2 6 4
34 2
M an h attan -S tyle Clam

Chowder 3 4 4
Red Pepper Coulis 2 9 9
TARRAGON BUTTER
264
341
Pacific Seafood Chowder
MaTtre dHotel B u tter 3 0 0
264
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
Corn Chowder
298
297
chapter 15 mise en place for

meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish
Garam Masala
368
Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese

and Beer Soup 3 4 0
Chinese Five-Spice Powder 3 6 8
New England-Style Clam

Chowder 3 4 0
Chili Powder
Conch Chowder
341
Barbecue Spice M ix
368
Curry Powder
369
Q uatre Epices
36 9
368
Fines Herbes
370
Green Curry Paste
37 0
Yellow Curry Paste
371
Barbecue M arinade
Fish M arinade
372
Brazilian Mixed Grill
372
SALT HERBS
457
Chicken Legs with Duxelles

S tu ffin g 4 8 2
Barbecued Chicken Breast with

Black Bean Sauce 4 5 8
373
Latin Citrus M arinade (Mojo) 3 7 3
BLACK BEAN SAUCE
Jerked Game Hens
Red W ine M arinade fo r

Grilled M eats 3 7 4
MU SH R OOM FORCEMEAT
440
Veal Shoulder Poele
442
465
467
469
MARS ALA SAUCE
MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE

(NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW
COU NTRY SAUCE)
469
447
Grilled Smoked Iowa

Pork Chops 4 4 8
Pork Butt with Coleslaw

448
CARAMELIZED APPLES
Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with

Sherry V inegar Sauce 4 5 0
SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE
450
BARBECUE SAUCE
FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY
475
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille

454
PERSILLADE
WARM CABBAGE SALAD
SAUCE ROBERT
50 5
506
508
SAUCE CHARCUTIERE
508
Red Snapper with

G rapefruit Salsa 5 0 9
Roast Leg of Lamb

Boulangere 47 6
453
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties
W INTER FR U IT SA UCE
Pork C utlet with Sauce

Robert 5 0 8
475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork
Ribs (Kao Paigu) 4 7 6
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh

Mango Chutney 4 5 3
Sauteed Medallions of Pork

with W in ter Fruit Sauce 50 5
NOISETTES OF PORK WITH RED

ONION CONFIT 50 6
CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST -STYLE

SAUCE
472-3
St. Louis-Style Ribs
Grilled Lamb Chops with

Rosemary, Artichokes, and
Cipollini Onions
451
504
Pork Medallions with Warm

Cabbage Salad 50 6
470
Smoked Brisket with

Sw eet Pickles 4 7 2
448
PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATO

SAUCE 5 0 3
N oisettes of Pork w ith Green

Peppercorns and Pineapple 5 0 4
NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN

BARBECUE SAUCE 4 6 9
BROILED LA M B KEBABS WITH

PIMIENTO BUTTER 4 4 7
501
Veal Scaloppine Marsala 5 0 3
467
NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT

SAUCE 4 6 9
Pork and Veal Skewers

(R a znjic i) 4 4 7
501
Emince of Sw iss-Style Veal 5 0 3
GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE
Carolina Barbecue
446
Chicken Provengal
500
BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL
Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs

446
Sauteed Chicken with Fines

HerbesSauce 5 0 0
FINES HERBES SAUCE
Cantonese Roast Pork

( C h a r S iu ) 4 6 6
Barbecued Steak w ith

Herb Crust 4 4 5
APPLE CIDER SAUCE
464
464
Pork Roast with Jus Lie
Beef Teriyaki 4 4 5
DILL SAUCE
486
chapter 18 sauteing, pan frying,

and deep frying
463
Baked S tu ffed Pork Chops 4 6 5
Grilled Rib Eye Steak
C H ES TNU TSTU FF IN G
Salmon F illet with Smoked Salmon

and Horseradish Crust 4 8 6
462
MADEIRA SAUCE 4 6 3
Standing Rib Roast au Jus
44 1
Skewered Beef and Scallions
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy

and Chestnut S tu ffin g 4 8 5
B eef W ellington 4 6 3
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with

Marchand de Vin Sauce 441
Seitan Satay
462
M AR SALA SAUCE
MARCHAND D E V IN SAUCE
461
M IN T AND YOGURT CHU TNEY
GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAK

WITH MAITRE DHOTEL BUTTER 4 4 0
MUSH R OOM SAUCE
459
Broiled Bluefish a I'Anglaise with

MaTtre d'Hotel B u tter 461
Fish Kebabs
484
Roast Duckling with Sauce

Bigarade 4 8 4 -5
459
Broiled S tu ffed Lobster
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak

with Mushroom Sauce 4 4 0
483
Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen

with Mushroom Forcem eat 4 8 3
459
P INEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA
chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and

roasting
Pan-Smoked Chicken
458
F illet of Mahi Mahi with

Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa
374
481
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy 48 2
HOT PEPPER S A U C E (M O LH O
API MENTADO)
457
372
Teriyaki M arinade
Roast Leg of Lamb with

M int Sauce 481
Grilled Paillards of Chicken

with Tarragon B u tter 4 5 5
Red W ine Game M arinade 3 7 2

Lamb M arinade
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots

Blancs (G ig o t a la Breto nne )
480
Grilled or Broiled Chicken

Breasts with Fennel 4 5 5
Seasoning M ix fo r Spit-R oasted

M eats and Poultry 371
Asian-Style M arinade
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and

Couscous (M e ch o u i)
478
Grilled or Broiled Chicken

Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato
and Oregano B u tter 4 5 4
369
Red Curry Paste
477
Trout Amandine
50 9
A ll
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with

Yellow Pepper Sauce 511
YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE
Vatapa
512
Shrimp Ticin-Xic
Bibimbap
513
513
514
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken
516
516
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets
518
518
PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK

CUTLET 5 1 8
Veal Cordon Bleu
518
55 5
520
REM OU LA D ESA U C E
520
561
GREMOLATA
5 6 2 -3
Crispy Tangerine-Flavored
Chicken 5 2 4
SWEET GARLIC SAUCE
524
563
Fried Fish Cakes
528
Farmhouse Chicken with

Angel Biscuits 5 6 4
Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo

Oaxaqueno 5 2 8 -9
Tinga Poblano
530
566
Bass and Scallops en

Papillote 5 5 3
606
Lamb Khorma
607
Irish Stew
569
chapter 20 braising and stewing
608
Couscous with Lamb and

Chicken Stew 6 0 9
Chicken Tagine
611
PRESERVED LEMONS
Chicken Fricassee
Korean Braised Short

Ribs (KalbiJjim) 5 8 2
61 2
Chicken and Prawn Ragout

(M a r i Muntanya) 6 1 2 -3
584
ROULADEN STUFFING
chapter 22 cooking vegetables

Boiled Carrots
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy

Sauce 5 8 4 -5
585
Yankee Pot Roast 5 8 6
Mole Negro
611
61 2
581
DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581
587
5 8 8 -9
Poached Sea Bass with Clams,

Bacon, and Peppers 5 5 3
Beef Stew
Poached Trout with

Saffron Mousse 5 5 5
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in

M ea t Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole
di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni) 5 9 0
Lamb Navarin
VEAL FRICASSEE
Sauerbraten
602
60 4
Curried Goat w ith Green

Papaya Salad 6 0 8
Seafood Poached in a Saffron

Broth with Fennel 5 7 0
Braised Short Ribs
chapter 19 steam ing and

subm ersion cooking
Braised Lamb Shanks
HERBED FORCEMEAT
STUFFING 6 0 5
Boiled Beef with Spatzle

and Potatoes (Gaisburger
Marsch) 5 7 0
Braised Oxtails
601
601
Portuguese S tu ffed
Leg of Lamb 6 0 5
Grandmother's Bean
Curd (M o Po Dofu) 5 2 7
Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha
Ca Thang Long)
527
599
Polish S tu ffed Cabbage
GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS
Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo)
TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 5 2 3
598
599
BEEF GOULASH
Corned Beef w ith W inter

Vegetables 5 6 6
Shrimp Tempura 5 2 3
597
Osso Buco Milanese
562
Udon Noodle Pot
522
59 6
Braised Veal Breast with

Mushroom Sausage 5 9 8
Pork Goulash
Boston Scrod with Cream,

Capers, and Tomatoes 561
Pan-Fried Brook Trout

with Bacon 5 2 2
522
Veal Blanquette
MUSHROO M SAUSAGE
New England Shore Dinner
Poule a u Pot (Chicken with

Vegetables) 5 6 5
Beer B a tter
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce
F illet of Snapper en
Papillote 5 5 8 -9
Cioppino
596
Szekely Goulash (Szekely

Gulyas)
597
557
Old-Fashioned Salt
Cod Cakes 521
Flounder a IOrly
Pork Vindaloo
Poached Chicken Breast with

Tarragon Sauce 5 6 4
519
Fishermans P la tte r
ROYALGLACAGE
59 5
New Mexican Green

Chile Stew 59 5
Poached Sole with Vegetable

Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 8
Pescado Veracruzana
Veal Piccata with Milanese

Sauce (Piccata di Vitello
alia Milanese)
519
Milanese Sauce
SALMON MOUSSELINE
593
594
D u ckC o nfit
555
Poached Sole Paupiettes

Veronique 5 5 7
Breast of Chicken with Duxelles

Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 5 1 5
WIENER SCHNITZEL
Cassoulet
Poached Trout Paupiettes

with Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 6
S tir-F ried Squid with

Thai Basil 5 1 5
COUNTRY GRAVY
SOLE MOUSSELINE
593
HOM EMA DE SAUERKRAUT
TROUT AND SAFFRON

MOUSSEL INE 5 5 5
51 1
Sauteed Trout a la M euniere
Choucroute
POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON

MOUSSE 555
58 9
681
Boiled Edamame 681

Steam ed Broccoli
681
BROCCOLI AND TOASTED

GARLIC 681
Glazed Beets
Creamed Corn
683
683
Pan-Steam ed Carrots 6 8 4
PAN-STEAMED HARICOTS
VERTS 6 8 4
PECAN CARROTS
684
Gingered Snow Peas and

Yellow Squash 6 8 4
Braised Sauerkraut
French-Style Peas
Green Beans with Walnuts

Glazed Carrots
712
Frijoles Puercos Estilo

Sinaloa 7 7 3
712
Middle Eastern Chickpeas
685
Rom an-Style Lima Beans
685
chapter 23 cooking potatoes
Grilled Vegetables
Proven<;al-Style 6 8 6
Whipped Potatoes
MARINATED GRILLED
VEGETABLES 6 8 6
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms

with Soy-Sesam e Glaze 6 8 6
Boiled Parsley Potatoes
689
CRANBERRY-ORANGE
COMPOTE 6 8 9
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
692
W ILD RICE PILAF
M arinated Roasted Peppers
695
695
Potato Pancakes
Potato Latkes
Sh rim p -S tuffed M irlitons
696
69 6
699
SU M M E R SQUASH SALSA
SHORT-GRAIN BROWN RICE

PILAF 78 1
740
Annatto Rice
743
781
Arroz Blanco 781
Potatoes Anna 7 4 4
Arroz Mexicano
744
Coconut Rice
French-Fried Potatoes
782
Arroz Brasileiro 7 8 2
Rosti Potatoes 7 4 4
699
780
Brown Rice P ilaf with Pecans

and Green Onions 7 8 0 -8 1
743
M acaire Potatoes
780
PEARL BARLEY PILAF
740
Hash Brown Potatoes
747
Risotto
782
783
Mushroom Quesadillas
with Two Salsas 7 0 0
Sw eet Potato Chips 7 4 7
PARMESAN RISOTTO
Seasonal Vegetable Tarts
Berny Potatoes
W ILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO
Sauteed Arugula
701
747
Souffleed Potatoes
702
S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy

(Qinchao Shanghai Baicai) 7 0 2
Summer Squash Noodles
German Potato Salad
704
Belgian Endive a la M euniere
704
748
749
Curried Sw eet Potato Salad
Risotto alia Milanese

749
Tortilla de Papas
Jardiniere Vegetables
chapter 24 cooking grains and

legumes
Vegetable Julienne
706
Macedoine of Vegetables
Spinach Pancakes
Pan-Fried Zucchini
Corn F ritters
750
Black Bean Mash
768
707
Black Beans with Peppers

and Chorizo 7 6 8
708
Vegetarian Black Bean

Crepes 771
707
Vegetable Tempura
Fried Plantain Chips
708
Vegetarian Risotto
Frijoles R efritos
771
783
784
Risotto with Mussels

Basic Boiled Rice
706
707
783
RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS

TIPS 7 8 3
748
Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot

Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli
con Aglio e Pepperoncino) 7 0 5
705
783
GREEN PEA RISOTTO (R /S /E

BIS/) 7 8 3
748
C roquette Potatoes
L o rette Potatoes
784
785
Steam ed Long-Grain
Rice (Lo Han) 7 8 5
Sushi Rice
785
Fried Rice with Chinese

Sausage 7 8 7
Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos
(Mamuang Kao Nieo) 7 8 7
Paella Valenciana
788
Saffron Rice 7 8 8
Corona Beans (Fagioli

all'Uccelletto) 7 7 2
Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya

BBQS PICE RUB
79 1
Creamed Pinto Beans

(Frijoles Maneados) 7 7 2
Rice C roquettes
79 2
Braised Fennel in B u tter 7 1 0

Braised Red Cabbage
Frijoles a la Charra
TOSTONES
Ratatouille
708
708
Braised Greens
Braised Romaine
710
711
711
78 0
780
WHEAT BERRY PILAF
740
Delmonico Potatoes
778
780
CONVERTED WHITE RICE PILAF
739
Chateau Potatoes
Curried Roasted Cauliflower 69 2
777
777
SHORT-GRAIN W HITE RICE PILAF

(VALENCIA) 7 8 0
738
Mashed Sw eet Potatoes

with Ginger 7 3 8
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Butternut Squash Puree 691
Poblanos Rellenos
Rice Pilaf
Potatoes au Gratin (Gratin

Dauphinoise) 7 3 9
691
Eggplant Parmesan
Boiled W hite Beans

Vegetarian Chili
Glazed Sw eet Potatoes
Baked Acorn Squash with

Cranberry-Orange Compote
776
Red Beans and Boiled Rice
Roasted Tuscan-Style
Potatoes 7 3 8
Asparagus with Lemony

Hollandaise 6 8 8 -9
Roasted Carrots
737
775
775
776
Rice and Beans
Baked Potatoes with DeepFried Onions 7 3 7
Zucchini Pancakes with

Tzatziki 6 8 8
Spaghetti Squash
F alafel
735
774
Southwest W hite Bean Stew

Stewed Black Beans
735
Duchesse Potatoes
774
773
Basic Polenta
791
792
POLENTA WITH PARMESAN
792
Grits with Corn and Hominy 7 9 5
Congee
795
Gnocchi di Semolina G ratinati
M illet and Cauliflower Puree 79 6
Gnocchi di Ricotta
Mixed Grain Pilaf
Gnocchi Piedmontese
79 6
Green Onion-Bulgur Pilaf
7 9 6 -7
Kasha with Spicy Maple

Pecans 7 9 9
831
Barley Salad with Cucumber

and M int 8 0 0
Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad
Cracked W heat and
Tomato Salad 8 0 3
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH

BRATWURST 8 7 2
835
Hush Puppies 8 3 7
SCRAMBLED EGGS GRATINE
Dim Sum 8 3 7
POTSTICKERS
800
SCRAMBLED EGGS, HUNTERSTYLE 8 7 2
835
Biscuit Dumplings
803
837
Steam ed Dumplings
(.S h a o - M a i) 8 3 8
Plain Rolled O m elet
804
Corn and Asiago Cheese

Risotto Cakes 8 0 5
CHEESE OMELET
84 1
Potato and C heddar-Filled Pierogi

with Caramelized Onions, Beurre
N oisette, and Sage 8 4 2
chapter 25 cooking pasta and

dumplings
819
WHOLE WHEAT PASTA

BUCKWHEAT PASTA
CITRUS PASTA
819
819
819
O recchiette with Italian Sausage,

Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan 821
821
866
JELLY OMELET
Tempeh Cashew Noodles
825
Lasagna di Carnevale
Napolitana 8 2 5
826
873
Farm er-S tyle O m elet
SAVORY CHEESE SOUFFLE
868
874
874
874
875
Warm Goat Cheese Custard

869
Quiche Lorraine
875
87 6
SPINACH QUICHE
POACHED EGGS WITH

MUSHROOMS 8 6 9
CARAM ELIZED ONION QUICHE

869
Poached Eggs with Corned

Beef Hash 8 6 9
876
SMOKED SALMON AND DILL

QUICHE 8 7 6
French Toast
871
878
871
POACHED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVER

CHASSEUR 871
POACHED EGGS WITH SMOKED
SALMON 871
Scrambled Eggs
876
BROCCOLI AND CHEDDAR

QUICHE 8 7 6
POACHED EGGS, AM ERICANSTYLE 871
Asparagus and W hite

Bean Lasagna 82 9
876
TOMATO AND LEEK QUICHE
POACHED EGGS MASSENA
Fried Eggs
873
Souffleed Cheddar O m elet
POACHED EGGS, FARMERSTYLE 8 6 9
Classic Bolognese Lasagna

with Ragu and Bechamel
(La sagna al Forno) 8 2 6
830
873
873
873
Spinach Souffle
868
EGGS FLORENTINE
822
Ravioli Bercy
866
868
Eggs Benedict
S tir-F ried Glass Noodles

(.J a p C h a e ) 8 2 2
x ii
866
DEVILED EGGS WITH GREENS
Poached Eggs M om ay
PUMPKIN, CARROT, OR BEET

PASTA 8 1 9
Couscous
DEVILED EGGS WITH TOMATO
Poached Eggs
873
WESTERN OMELET
SPANISH OMELET
RED PICKLED EGGS
819
Pasta alia Carbonara
873
SHELLFISH OMELET
866
873
873
Artichoke Souffle
RED PEPPER PASTA
Pad Thai
866
819
Basic Boiled Pasta
873
SEAFOOD OMELET
SOFT-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
Pickled Eggs
819
BLACK PEPPER PASTA 8 1 9
TOMATO PASTA
OMELET OPERA
866
DEVILED EGGS WITH CHEESE
819
HERBED PASTA
CODDLED EGGS
Deviled Eggs
819
819
CURRIED PASTA
Hard-Cooked Eggs
873
873
OMELET MARCEL
MEDIUM-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
819
SAFFRON PASTA
MEAT AND CHEESE OMELET

HERB OMELET
OMELET FLORENTINE
chapter 2 6 cooking eggs
SPINACH PASTA
873
CHEESE AND VEGETABLE

OMELET 8 7 3
TOMATO OMELET
Wild Rice Cakes 80 6
Fresh Egg Pasta
872
PLAIN ROLLED EGG WHITE

OMELET 8 7 3
GINGE R-S OY DIPPING SAUCE
Fontina Risotto F ritters 8 0 4
872
SCRAMBLED EGGS, GREEKSTYLE 8 7 2
Pan-Fried Dumplings
(G uoT ie ) 841
Amaranth Pancakes
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH

CHEESE 8 7 2
SCRAMBLED EGGS, SWEDISHSTYLE 8 7 2
832
834
Bread Dumplings
W heat Berry Salad with Oranges,

Cherries, and Pecans 7 9 9
Saigon Crepes
Spatzle
831
871
chapter 27 salad dressings and

salads
Red Wine V in a ig re tte
896
W HITE WINE VINAIGRETTE
896
MUSTARD-HERB VINAIGRETTE
EGGS OVER EASY, MEDIUM , OR

HARD 871
872
SCRAMBLED EGG WHITES
LEMON-GARLIC VINAIGRETTE
872
896
ROASTED GARLIC AND MUSTARD

VINAIGRETTE 8 9 6
LEMON-PARS LEY VINAIGRETTE
896
896
Taco Salad
Chipotle-Sherry V in a ig re tte 8 9 6
Almond-Fig V in aig rette
897
Apple Cider V inaig rette
897
Balsamic V inaig rette

Curry V inaig rette
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby

Greens with Robiola Cheese
and Walnuts 9 1 7
898
Honey-Poppy Seed-C itrus

Dressing 8 9 8
Fire-Roasted Tomato
V inaig rette 8 9 9
Truffle V in a ig re tte
899
900
901
Green Goddess Dressing
901
Catalina French Dressing
902
Peanut Dressing
Cucumber Dressing
903
903
904
Ranch-Style Dressing
Basil Oil
Paprika Oil
907
907
Thai Table Salad
907
908
Smoked Bean Curd and

Celery Salad 9 0 8
908
Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand

Island Dressing 90 9
Chefs Salad
909
Greek Salad
910
92 0
Tempeh Reuben
921
940
942
942
Cucumber Sandwich with

Herbed Cream Cheese 94 3
921
W atercress Sandwich with

Herb Mayonnaise 9 4 3
Apple Sandwich with Curry
Mayonnaise 9 4 3
Gorgonzola and Pear
Sandwich 9 4 4
Tomato Sandwich with
Oregano Sour Cream 94 4
923
924
chapter 2 9 hors doeuvre and

appetizers
924
925
Ham Salad
Mixed Green Salad
Caesar Salad
Tuna Salad
Egg Salad
907
Green Onion Oil
Three Cheese M elt
H ue-Style Chicken Salad 9 2 4

C RISPY SH ALLO TS
90 6
906
Orange Oil
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich

with Manchego Cheese 94 0
Cucumber and Wakame

Salad (Sunonomo) 9 2 2
Chicken Salad
905
Thousand Island Dressing
M A R IN ATED EGGPLANT
FILLIN G
939
Cucumber Yogurt Salad 9 2 3

905
937
Eggplant and Prosciutto

Panini 9 3 9
Cucumber Salad 92 2
Creamy Black Peppercorn

Dressing 9 0 4
Japanese Salad Dressing
903
93 6
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with

Sw eet and Sour Onions 9 3 7
Croque Monsieur
Sliced Daikon Salad

(Mu Chae) 9 2 2
904
Blue Cheese Dressing
918
Ji'cama Salad 921

Green Papaya Salad
GREEN MAYONNAISE
AToli
Corn and Ji'cama Salad
903
936
Reuben Sandwich
Moroccan C arrot Salad
903
934
Barbecued Beef
Coleslaw 9 2 0
902
ANCHOVY-CAPER M AYONNAISE
TARTAR SAUCE
Chicken Burger
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad

(Mizeria Klasyczna) 9 2 0
902
C aesar-Style Dressing
Mayonnaise
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and

G rapefruit Salad 9 1 8
Onion and Cucumber Salad

(Kachu mber) 9 1 9
W A L N U T O IL A N D RED WINE
VINAIGRETTE 901
934
Philly Hoagie
Summer Melon Salad with

Prosciutto 9 1 9
V inaig rette Gourmande
930
CIA Club
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad
901
930
Seafood Ravigote
Sherried W atercress and

Apple Salad 9 1 7
Chayote Salad with Oranges

(Salada de Xuxu) 9 1 9
Peanut Oil and M alt Vinegar

Salad Dressing 9 0 0
Curried Rice Salad
Smoked Salmon Mousse
925
Shrimp Salad
Blue Cheese Mousse
925
European-Style Potato Salad

Potato Salad
Pico de Gallo
953
92 6
92 6
95 3
Salsa Verde Asada 9 5 4

Salsa Verde Cruda
Eastern M editerranean Bread

Salad (Fottoush) 9 2 6
Salsa Roja
Panzanella
G rap efruit Salsa
954
954
Papaya-Black Bean Salsa
927
Tomato and M ozzarella Salad
953
GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE
Pasta Salad with Pesto

V in a ig re tte 9 2 5
953
928
955
95 5
Cumberland Sauce
955
Roasted Peppers (Peperoni

A rro stiti) 9 2 8
Asian Dipping Sauce
Endive Salad with Roquefort and

Walnuts (So/ode de Roquefort,
Noix, e t Endives) 9 1 0
Green Lentil Salad (Salade

des Lentilles du Puy) 9 2 8
Vietnam ese Dipping Sauce
Cobb Salad
Mixed Bean Salad
913
929
chapter 2 8 sandwiches
W aldorf Salad 9 1 8
HERB AND TRUFFLE

VINAIGRETTE 900
Pesto V inaig rette
Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad
914
W ilted Spinach Salad with Warm

Bacon V in a ig re tte 9 1 4
897
Guava-Curry V in a ig re tte
913
TACO SAUCE
VARIATION
95 6
Cilantro-Lim e Soy Sauce 956
Spring Roll Dipping Sauce
928
92 9
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce
956
95 7
95 7
Guacamole
958
Beef Satay with Peanut

Sauce 98 2
chapter 32 yeast breads
Hummus bi Tahini 9 5 8
Baba Ghanoush
V itello Tonnato
Basic Lean Dough
Harissa
95 9
Tapenade
Z'hug
958
959
96 0
983
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos,

Avocados, and Orange Oil 9 8 3
Baguettes
Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada

Gallega de Cerdo) 9 8 4
Focaccia
Spicy Mustard 9 6 0
Wasabi
960
chapter 30 charcuterie and garde

manger
Cranberry Relish 961

Seafood and Salmon Terrine
Spicy Mango Chutney 961

Curried Onion Relish
Pickled Ginger
FLOUNDER MOUSSELINE
961
Pate G rand-M ere
962
Aspic
Pickled Red Onions 9 6 2

Tortilla Chips
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco
963
Smoked Salmon P la tte r
96 3
Clams Casino
Venison Terrine
S tu ffed Shrimp
96 9
970
Tofu Cakes with Portobello

Mushrooms and Mango
Ketchup 971
Pescado Frito
1002
Duck Terrine with Pistachios

and Dried Cherries 1 0 0 2 -3
1004
Gravlax
1006
1008
10 11
Vietnam ese Salad Rolls

Beef Carpaccio
x iv
Simple Syrup
1023
Common Meringue
Swiss M eringue
982
1072
HAM AND CHEDDAR SCONES
1073
1073
1073
Italian Meringue
1024
1024
1024
10 73
1074
1075
P u ff Pastry Dough
1076
1076
Blitz P u ff Pastry Dough

Basic M u ffin Recipe
1077
1078
CRANBERRY-ORANGE
M U FFIN S 1 0 7 8
BLUEBERRY MUFFINS
Bran M uffins
Corn M uffins
CORNBREAD
1073
1073
1074
DESSERT CREPES
1023
10 72
1072
Fried Bread (Puri)
Crepes Suzette
Chantilly C ream /W hipped

Cream fo r Garnish 1 0 2 3
981
1070
1070
1072
Irish Soda Bread
Johnny Cakes
1023
LIQUEUR-FLAVORED SIMPLE
SYRUP 1 0 2 3
981
Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 )
OATMEAL PANCAKES
COFFEE SIM PLE SYRUP
98 0
chapter 33 pastry doughs and

batters
BLUEBERRY PANCAKES
Egg Wash
California Rolls
1045
1046
CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES
Grilled Shrimp Paste on

Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 9 7 7
Potato Om elet ( Tortilla

Espanola) 9 7 9
1044
S o ft Dinner Rolls 1 0 4 5
BANANA PANCAKES
1 0 11
chapter 31 baking m ise en place
978
Challah (3-Braid)
BASIC WAFFLES
Octopus "Fairground Style"

(Pulpo a Feira) 976
Black Bean Cakes
10 40
B utterm ilk Pancakes
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce

(Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean) 9 7 6
Mushroom Strudel with

Goat Cheese 9 7 8
BRIOCHE ATE TE
Raisin Bread with Cinnamon

Swirl 1 0 4 3
RAISIN SCONES
1006
Pate Spice
1039
1040
Cream Scones
Vegetable Terrine with

Goat Cheese 1 0 1 0
Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata

di Tonno e Fagioli) 9 7 5
1039
B utterm ilk Biscuits
Duck and Smoked Ham

Terrine 1 0 0 4 -5
Pate Dough
1037
1037
1001
Seafood Pate en Croute
Mussels with W hite Wine

and Shallots (M oules a
la Mariniere) 9 7 5
SPINACH P IZZA
1 0 01
SAFFRON PATE DOUGH
97 2
MARGHERITA P IZZ A
Sticky Buns
1000
Chicken Liver Pate
970
1037
Sw eet Dough
Chicken Galantine
FOIE GRAS ROULADE
Chesapeake-Style
Crab Cakes 9 6 9
999
99 9
Foie Gras Terrine
966
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic
99 6
996
Pork Tenderloin Roulade
96 6
Pita Bread
Semolina Pizza Crust 1 0 3 7
Brioche Loaf
MEAT BRINE
Coconut Macadam ia Shrimp
1036
1036
Cottage Dill Rolls
994
C ountry-Style Terrine (Pdte

de Campagne) 9 9 8
Tuna Carpaccio ( Crudo di

Tonno alia B attuta) 9 6 5
1034
Hard Rolls
Naan Bread
995
Shellfish Essence
96 2
993
993
Chicken and Crayfish Terrine
962
Seviche of Scallops
Spring Rolls
1034
Ciabatta
Roasted Red Pepper

Marm alade 9 6 0
Samosas
Boules
1033
1033
1078
1079
1079
1078
B anana-N utB read

Pumpkin Bread
Pound Cake
chapter 35 fillings, frostings, and

dessert sauces
1079
1 0 81
Italian Buttercream
Devil's Food Cake
1082
Apple Pie
1082
Vanilla Sponge Cake
Pecan Pie
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE
1083
1083
1084
1084
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS
1127
Sabayon
1085
1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough
CHERRY-CHOCOLATE CHUNK
COOKIES 1 0 8 8
Apple B u tter
1130
Nut Tuile Cookies
chapter 36 plated desserts

Warm Date Spice Cake with
Dates, Butterscotch Sauce, and
Cinnamon Ice Cream 1 1 3 5
1090
1098
1098
Pastry Cream fo r S ouffles
10 98
1099
1099
1103
CHOCOLATE IC EC REAM
COFFEE ICE CREAM
1103
1103
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM
1103
Diplomat Cream 1 1 0 3
Chocolate Mousse 1 1 0 4
Raspberry Mousse 1 1 0 4
Chocolate Souffle
1106
Bread and B u tter Pudding
1106
1135
1 1 51
GRAHAM CRACKER ICE

CREAM 11 51
1152
1152
CLASSIC CARAMEL SAUCE

W HITE SAUCE
1154
Pro fitero les
1157
MILK CHOCOLATE C INNAMON

STICKS 1 1 3 6
COFFEE ICE CREAM
DATE SPICE CAKE
CORN FLAKE CRUNCH
1137
1137
1153
1153
CHOCOLATE BEIGNET
BATTER 1 1 5 4
VANILLA ICE CREAM
1136
1157
1158
D U L C E D E L E C H E IC E CREAM
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
1159
VANILLA CARAMEL SAUCE
ORANGE-SCENTED CREME
CHANTILLY 1 1 3 8
CHOCOLATE PATE A CHOUX

CHOCOLATE STRAWS
1158
1159
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 1 1 3 7
CARAME LIZE D APPLES
1100
Vanilla Ice Cream
APPLE CHIPS
P H Y L LO T U B E S
CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM
Creme Caramel
1150
BEIGN ET TR UFF LE CENTERS
C INNAMO N IC E C RE A M
Creme Brulee
COCONUT FLANS
MA R S H MA LL OW
chapter 34 custards, cream s, and

mousses
Pastry Cream
1150
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST FOR

S MORES 1 1 5 2
1090
Fudge Brownies
1149
COCONUT CHIPS
CHOCOLATE GRAHAM DECOR
1130
Fruit Salsa 1 1 3 0
1089
1146
Mango and Passion-Poached

Pineapple with Coconut Flan
and Cilantro Sorbet 1 1 4 9
Smores
1130
1089
Oatm eal-Raisin Cookies
Vanilla Sauce
1129
1129
Dried Cherry Sauce

1088
1146
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1 1 4 6
CILANTRO SORBET
1129
Apricot Glaze
CREME CHANTILLY
MANGO AND PASSION-POACHED

PINEAPPLE 1 1 4 9
1129
Raspberry Coulis
1088
Chocolate Chunk Cookies
1128
1128
Classic Caramel Sauce

1086
1145
STRAWBERRY COULIS
1129
ZABAGLIONE
Almond-Anise Biscotti 1 0 8 6
Mudslide Cookies
1128
1128
Chocolate Sauce
1085
1145
KEY LIME TART 1 1 4 6
Frangipane Filling
POACHED PEARS
IC E C R E A M -F ILLE D
PROFITEROLES 10 85
Pecan Diamonds
1126
1127
Pear Frangipane T artlets
Eclairs 1 0 8 5
1145
LEMON CURD
Key Lime Tart 1 1 4 6
CRANBERRY-PECAN PIE
Hard Ganache
1144
BASIL SAUCE
BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
1126
Pumpkin Pie
1084
GOUGERES(GRUYERE CHEESE
PUFFS) 1 0 8 4
Profiteroles
1126
Lemon Meringue Pie
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
P a te a C h o u x
1125
1125
Cherry Pie
1083
Chocolate XS Cake
Cheesecake
1143
1144
TUIL ES
1081
Angel Food Cake
BASIL ICE CREAM

TARTLET SHELLS
1159
1160
1160
1138
Blackberry and Port-Poached

Pears with R icotta Cream
and Sable Cookies 1 1 3 9
BLACKBERRY AND PORT-POACHED
PEARS 1 1 3 9
SABLE COOKIES
1140
RICOTTA CREAM
1140
Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil

Ice Cream and Blueberry
Compote 1 1 4 3
xv
acknowledgments
THANK YOU to th e fo llo w in g fa c u lty and s t a f f a t The C ulinary In s titu te o f A m erica fo r
a ssistin g in the revision f o r th e ninth e d itio n o f The P rofe s sio n al Chef: Tim Ryan, CMC,
AAC; M ark Erickson, CMC; Brad Barnes, CMC, CCA, AAC; Lou Jones; Charlie Rascoll; Eve
Felder; Thomas L. Vaccaro.
The h e a rt o f th is book is th e d e ta ile d exp la n a tio n o f cooking m etho ds in w ords and
images, as w e ll as an am azingly diverse c o lle c tio n o f recipes. For th e ir d e d ica tio n to ex
cellence in several areas (reading and c ritiq u in g th e te x t, te s tin g and review ing recipes,
and being th e hands you see in th e ph otographs), th e fo llo w in g in dividu als are also to be
co n g ra tu la te d and thanked:
Mark Ainsworth '86, CHE, PC III, CEC
Martin Frei, CHE
Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE
Michael A. Garnero, CHE
David J. Barry '95, CHE
Lynne Gigliotti 88, CHE
Frederick C. Brash '76, CHE
Peter Greweling, CMB, CHE
Elizabeth E. Briggs, CHE
Carol D. Hawran '93
Robert Briggs
Marc Haymon '81, CMB, CHE
David J. Bruno '88, PC lll/CEC, CHE
James W. Heywood '67, CHE
Kate Cavotti, CMB, CHE
George B. Higgins '78, CMB, CHE
Dominick Cerrone
James Michael Jennings '93
Shirley Shuliang Cheng, CWC, CHE
Stephen J. Johnson '94
Howard F. Clark 7 1 , CCE, CWC, CHE
David Kamen '88, PC lll/CEC, CCE,

CHE
Richard J. Coppedge, Jr., CMB, CHE

Gerard Coyac, CHE
Phillip Crispo PC lll/CEC/CHE
Paul Delle Rose 94, CHE
Joseph DePaola '94, CHE
John DeShetler 68, CHE, PCII/CCC
Joseph W .D iP erri'77, CHE
Alain Dubernard, CHE, CMB
Stephen J. Eglinski, CHE, CMB
Anita Olivarez Eisenhauer, CHE
Mark Elia
Joseba Encabo, CHE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Morey Kanner '84, CHE

Cynthia Keller '83
Thomas K ie f 78, CHE
Joseph Klug '82, CHE
Todd R. Knaster, CMB, CHE
John Kowalski '77, CHE
Pierre LeBlanc, CHE
Xavier Le Roux, CHE
Alain L. Levy, CCE, CHE
Anthony J. Ligouri, CHE
Dwayne F. LiPuma '86, CHE
James Maraldo, CHE
Thomas Schneller, CHE
Hubert J. Martini, CEC, CCE, CHE,

AAC
Dieter G. Schorner, CMB, CHE
Bruce S. M a t t e l'80, CHE

Francisco Migoya, CMB, CHE
Darryl Mosher, CHE
Robert Mullooly '93
Tony Nogales 88, PCII, CEC, CHE
Michael Pardus '81, CHE
Robert Perillo '86, CHE
William Phillips '88, CHE
Johann Sebald, CHE

Michael Skibitcky, PCIII, CEC, CHE
David F. Smythe, CCE, CEC, CHE
Brannon Soileau '91, CHE
Rudolf Spiess, CHE
John J. S te in '80, CFBE, CHE
Scott Schwartz '89, CEC, CHE
Jurgen Temme, CMB, CHE
Alberto Vanoli, CHE
Katherine Polenz '73, CHE

Howard Velie, CEC, CHE
Heinrich Rapp, CHE
Gerard Viverito, CEC, CHE
Surgeio Remolina, CHE
Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE
John Reilly '88,CCC,CHE
Stephane Weber, CHE
Theodore R o e '91, CHE
Paul R. Sartory '78
Jonathan A. Zearfoss, CEC, CCE, CCP,

CHE
Giovanni Scappin
Gregory Z ifc h a k '80, CHE
Eric L. Schawaroch '84, CHE
For th e p ro fe ssio n a l ch e f th e re are m any s u b je cts to m aster. A special th a n k you to

th o se who helped develop and review ch a p te rs d e d ica te d to m anagem ent, fo o d safe ty,
and n u tritio n :
Marjorie Livingston, RD, CHE

Richard Vergili, CHE
The im ages in th is book w ere cre a te d in th e In s titu te 's stu d io s and kitchens. M any
tha nks to p h o to g ra p h e r Ben Fink w hose e x p e rtis e and a r tis tr y is the p e rfe c t com p le
m en t to th e te x t, tech niq ue s, and recipes.
Thanks to the book's designer, A lison Lew o f V e rtig o Design, who b ro u g h t it all t o
g e th e r b e a u tifu lly and to th e p ro d u c tio n e d ito r a t W iley, Alda Trabucchi, fo r her tire le s s
a tte n tio n to every d e ta il, large and sm all. And fin a lly , th a n k you to Pam Chirls, executive
e d ito r, fo r her ove rall guidance and vision.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
introduction
BECOMING A CHEF is a ca re e r-lo n g process. C ooking is a dynam ic p ro fe s s io n one th a t
pro vid es som e o f th e g re a te s t challenges as w e ll as som e o f th e g re a te s t rew ards. There
is always a n o th e r level o f p e rfe c tio n to achieve and a n o th e r s k ill to m aster. It is our hope
th a t th is book w ill fu n c tio n bo th as a sp rin g b o a rd in to fu tu re g ro w th and as a refere nce
p o in t to give b a lla s t to th e lessons s till to be learned.
By the na ture o f its en cyclo ped ic su b je ct coverage, th is te x t is su ite d to a v a rie ty
o f curricula , w h e th e r as p a rt o f an e x is tin g program or th ro u g h in de pen de nt study. An
in s tru c to r may choose to use all o r p a rt o f its c o n te n ts; th e s tu d e n t may use it to ad
vance his o r her learning by em p lo ying it as a broad, basic te x t o r as a re fe re n ce to o l to
answ er s p e c ific qu estio ns ab ou t a p a rtic u la r technique. The tech niq ue s as explained in
th is book have all been te s te d in th e In s titu te s kitche ns. Each re p re se n ts one o f many
po ssib le va ria tio n s. The fa c t th a t all v a ria tio n s are n o t included in th is te x t does not
im p ly th a t o th e r m etho ds are in co rre ct. E xperience w ill teach th e s tu d e n t many "tric k s
o f th e trade." The t it le o f th is w o rk should n o t p u t it in to th e ra rifie d ca te g o ry o f books
to be used only by th o se w o rk in g in re s ta u ra n t or h o te l kitche ns. The basic lessons o f
coo kin g are th e same w h e th e r one pre pa res fo o d f o r paying g u ests or fo r one's fa m ily
and frie n d s . T h ere fore, we hope th a t th o se who lo ok to coo kin g f o r a cre a tive o u tle t w ill
com e to reg ard th is book as a valuable to o l.
This book is su ite d to a v a rie ty o f te a ch in g s itu a tio n s because th e m a te ria l is a r
ranged in a logical, p ro gre ssive sequence. C h ap te r One covers th e h is to ry o f cooking as a
p ro fe ssio n and exam ines th e skills and a ttrib u te s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l che f and o th e r m em
bers o f th e f oo dse rvice p ro fe ssio n . (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab ou t ta b le service and dining
room op era tions, co n su lt A t Your Service o r R e m arkab le Service.)
Since f o o dse rvice is a business, som e o f th e e le m e n ta ry aspects o f fo o d c o s t
ing are discussed in C hapter Two, as is how to a d a p t re c ip e s fro m th is book or any
o th e r f o r use in a s p e c ific p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen. Know ing how to ad ap t recipes is useful
f o r scheduling, c o n tro llin g costs, and im p ro vin g q u a lity. (For m ore d e ta ils ab ou t c u li
nary m ath, co n su lt M a t h f o r the P rofe ssio n al Kitchen.) N u tritio n and fo o d science have
becom e p a rt o f th e everyday language o f th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and C hapter Three
review s som e basic con cep ts o f n u tritio n and science, p a rtic u la rly as th e y re la te to
cooking. (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab o u t n u tritio n a l cooking, co n su lt Techniques o f H ealthy
Cooking.) Food and kitch e n s a fe ty are o f in crea sing concern in all fo o d s e rv ic e op e ra
tio n s, and C hapter Four p re se n ts fu n d a m e n ta l con cep ts and procedures fo r assuring
th a t safe, w holesom e fo o d is pre pa red in a safe en viro nm en t.
Counted am ong th e basics in th e kitch e n is th e a b ility to seek o u t and purchase the
b e st po ssib le in g re d ie n ts. P art Two is a ca ta lo g o f th e to o ls and in g re d ie n ts used in the
p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and includes in fo rm a tio n re g ard ing p ro d u c t sp e c ific a tio n s , p u r
chasing, and such p ro cessing concerns as trim loss. There are sep ara te cha pters devoted
to m eats, p o u ltry , and game; fis h and sh e llfish ; fru its , veg etab le s, and fre s h herbs; dairy
p ro d u cts and eggs; and nonperishable goods such as oils, flo u rs , grains, and dried pastas.
C ooking is n o t alw ays a p e rfe c tly precise a rt, b u t a good grasp o f the basics gives
th e ch e f or s tu d e n t the a b ility not only to apply th e tech niq ue , b u t also to learn the s ta n
dards o f q u a lity so th a t th e y begin to develop a sense o f how coo kin g w orks. P art Three
is de voted to stocks, sauces, and soups. The p a rt opens w ith a ch a p te r covering such
x v iii
I N T R O D U C T IO N
basic m ise en place tech niq ue s as p re p a rin g and using seasoning and a ro m a tic com bina
tio n s (b o uq uet garni and sach et d'epices), m ire p o ix, and th icke n e rs (roux and starches).
P a rt Four p re se n ts th e tech niq ue s used to cook m eats, p o u ltry , fish, and she llfish .
This p a rt covers th e basic fa b ric a tin g m etho ds f o r fa m ilia r cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , and fish
and the n d e m o n stra te s how to g rill, ro a st, saute, pan fry , s tir- fr y , deep fry , steam , poach,
stew , and braise. These im p o rta n t lessons are p re se n te d in cle ar s te p -b y -s te p p h o to
graphs, w ith e x p la n a to ry te x t and a m odel recipe.
In P art Five, cha pters c o n c e n tra te on p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s fo r vegetables,
grains and legum es, pasta and dum plings, and p o ta to e s. P art Six covers b re a k fa s t and
garde manger, w ith ch a p te rs cove rin g eggs, salad dressings and salads, sandwiches,
and garde m anger ite m s such as pa tes and te rrin e s . (For fu r th e r in fo rm a tio n on these
sub je cts, co n su lt Garde M anger: The A r t an d C r a ft o f th e Cold Kitchen, Third E d itio n .)
Baking and p a s try is p re se n te d in P a rt Seven, w ith a tte n tio n paid to th e p re p a ra tio n o f
breads and rolls; cakes and cookies; p a s try doughs and crusts; a v a rie ty o f fillin g s , icings,
and glazes; and p la te d de sserts.
The recipes included in th is book are exam ples o f th e w ide range o f p o s s ib ilitie s
open to th e s tu d e n t once th e basics are m astere d. It should be no ted th a t these recipes
have bo th A m erican and m e tric m easurem ents. The recipe yie ld s re fle c t re a l-life coo k
ing s itu a tio n s : som e item s, such as sto c k s and soups, are p re pa red in large q u a n titie s,
w h ile oth ers, such as sautes and g rills , are p re pa red a la m inute, a fe w p o rtio n s a t a tim e.
La rge r roa sts, braises, stew s, and side dishes g e n e ra lly have yie ld s o f 10 servings; any
m arinades, sauces, o r co n d im e n ts included in th e recipes th a t are prepa red in advance
are n o rm a lly given in q u a n titie s to produce a yie ld o f 10 servings. These yie ld s may not
alw ays s u it th e s tu d e n t w ho is using th e book o u ts id e o f a p ro fe s s io n a l kitchen. In m ost
cases, th e y can be reduced o r increased in o rd e r to pre pa re th e c o rre c t num ber o f s e rv
ings. Baking recipe yie ld s are based on s p e c ific w e ig h t ra tio s, however, and m ust be f o l
lowed exactly.
The new lo o k in th is new e d itio n re fle c ts th e w ay we th in k ab ou t tea chin g cooking.
We learn b e st when we un de rsta nd n o t only how to do som ething, b u t why we should do
it th a t way. From th is grounded approach, s tu d e n ts a t any level can c o n fid e n tly ta ke new
d ire c tio n s in th e ir coo kin g careers.
I N T R O D U C T IO N
x ix
the culinary prof<

PART 1
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introduction to
the profession
Evolving into a professional culinarian is a lifelong journey/full of learned
details and years of experience. It is challenging and deraffiding. Specific
techniques and acquired knowledge are continually tested and improved
upon. The specialized training required is intricate am precise. Deciding
where to begin your study is just as important as tljfp ro c e s s of learning.
becoming a culinary professional

A sound and th o ro u g h e d uca tion em phasizing th e c u li
An e sta b lish e d n e tw o rk also makes it much easier fo r
nary fu n d a m e n ta ls is th e f ir s t ste p to becom ing flu e n t
you to fin d a new p o s itio n or q u a lifie d em ployees.
in the trade . A s p irin g p ro fe ssio n a ls w ill fin d fo rm a l
Learning new skills to gain a c o m p e titiv e stance
tra in in g a t an a c c re d ite d school an e xce lle n t beginning.
and encourage c re a tiv ity should be an ongoing p a rt o f
O th er tra in in g a lte rn a tiv e s include ta k in g p a rt in special
you r career de velopm ent. B e n e ficia l and rew arding o p
a p p re n tice sh ip program s o r s e lf-d ire c te d courses o f
p o rtu n itie s re s u lt fro m a tte n d in g con tin u in g education
study. The process involves advancing fro m kitche n to
classes, w orkshops, and sem inars. Remain up to date
kitch e n by learning a t th e side o f chefs who are involved
w ith th e fo llo w in g in fo rm a tiv e resources:
in th e d a y-to -d a y business o f running a p ro fe ssio n a l

kitchen. The goal is to ensure a th o ro u g h u n de rsta nd ing
o f basic and advanced cu lin a ry techniques, reg ard less o f
th e ty p e o f tra in in g received.
C re atin g a n e tw o rk o f p ro fe ssio n a l colleagues and
in d u s try c o n ta cts is im p o rta n t fo r fu tu re developm ent.
The avenue o f g ro w th th a t includes w o rk in g w ith others,
sharing in fo rm a tio n , and com m u nica ting re g u la rly w ill
Magazines
New sletters
Instructional videos
Web sites
Government publications
Books
help to keep your own w o rk fre s h and co n tem po rary.
the attributes of a culinary professional

Each m em ber o f a p ro fe ssio n is resp on sible fo r th e p ro
the degree to which they will succeed in providing
fessio n's image, w h e th e r he or she is a teacher, lawyer,
excellent service.
doctor, o r culinarian. Those who have made th e g re a te s t
SENSE OF R E S P O N S IB ILITY The responsibility
im pression know th a t th e card in al v irtu e s o f th e culinary
of a culinary professional includes respecting not
p ro fe ssio n are an open and in q u irin g m ind, an a p p re cia
just the customer and his or her needs but also the
tio n o f and d e d ica tio n to q u a lity w h ere ver it is found,
s ta ff, food, equipment, and facility.
and a sense o f re s p o n s ib ility . Success also depends on

several ch a ra cte r tra its , som e o f w hich are inherent,
some o f which are d ilig e n tly c u ltiv a te d th ro u g h o u t a
career. These include:
C O M M ITM E N TT O SERVICE The degree to which
SOUND JUDG M ENT The ability to judge what

is right and appropriate in each work situation is
acquired throughout a life tim e of experience; good
judgm ent is a prerequisite fo r becoming and re
maining a professional.
a foodservice professional can o ffe r a quality prod

uct, as well as thorough customer satisfaction, is
the chef as a businessperson

As you con tinu e you r career, you w ill move fro m p o s i
w ill be called on to learn and assum e ta sks and re sp o n si
tio n s where your te ch n ica l prow ess is your g re a te s t
b ilitie s th a t are m ore m anagerial, m arking a s h ift in the
c o n trib u tio n in to tho se where you r sk ills as an execu
e vo lu tio n o f your career.
tive , an a d m in is tra to r, and a m anager are m ore cle arly
Become a g o o d executive. E xecutives are th e in d i
in dem and. This does n o t mean th a t y ou r a b ility to g rill,
vid ua ls who develop a m ission o r a plan fo r a com pany
saute, or ro a s t fo o d s to th e exa ct p o in t o f doneness is
o r org an izatio n. They are also th e ones responsible
less im p o rta n t than it was b e fo re . It does mean th a t you
fo r de veloping a system to a llow th a t plan to come to
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
fru itio n . As an executive, you m ust sho ulder a large p o r
service or goods th a t you are o ffe rin g your custom er?
tio n o f re s p o n s ib ility f o r th e success or fa ilu re o f your
C o m p e titio n con tinu es to increase, and unless your
e sta b lish m e n t. E xecutives d o n't o p e ra te in a vacuum,
e s ta b lis h m e n t is d iffe re n t, b e tte r, fa s te r, or unique in
however. N or do th e y em erge fu ll blow n one day o u t o f
some way, th e re is every chance th a t it may n o t survive,
th e blue. Even b e fo re you w ear a ja c k e t e m b roid ere d
le t alone prosper.
w ith "E xe cutive Chef, you w ill have begun to exercise

your a b ilitie s as an executive.
Become a g o o d ad m in istra to r. Once an overall goal
or plan has been laid down, th e ne xt ta s k is to im p le
m en t and tra c k th a t plan. Now y ou r hat becom es th a t o f
an a d m in is tra to r. Som e a d m in is tra tiv e du tie s may not
sound a t all g la m o ro u s p re p a rin g schedules, tra c k in g
deliveries, c o m p u tin g costs, and so fo rth . If a re s ta u ra n t
is sm all, th e exe cutive and a d m in is tra to r w ill be the
same person. T hat same person also m ig h t be the one
who dons a u n ifo rm and w o rks th e line. The be st ad m in
is tra to rs are th o se who can cre a te a fe e lin g th ro u g h o u t
the e n tire s t a f f th a t each person has a stake in g e ttin g
th in g s done c o rre c tly . When you give people th e o p p o r
tu n ity to help make de cisions and pro vid e the m w ith the
to o ls the y need to p e rfo rm o p tim a lly , you w ill see th a t it
is easier to achieve th e goals you have e sta b lish e d on an
exe cutive level.
Learn to use the im p o rta n t to o ls o f your business;
budgets, acco un ting system s, and in v e n to ry c o n tro l
system s all play a role. M any org an izatio ns, fro m the
la rg e st chains to th e sm a lle st one-person ca te rin g
com pany, re ly upon s o ftw a re syste m s th a t allow the m
to e ffic ie n tly a d m in is te r a num ber o f areas: in ven to ry,
purchases, losses, sales, p ro fits , fo o d costs, cu sto m e r
com p la ints, re se rva tio n s, pa yroll, schedules, and bud
M ANAGING PHYSICAL ASSETS

Physical asse ts are th e e q u ip m e n t and supplies needed
to do business. In th e case o f a re sta u ra n t, these m ig ht
include fo o d and beverage in ven to ry, tab les, chairs, lin
ens, china, fla tw a re , glassw are, co m p u te rs and p o in t o f
sale system s, cash re g iste rs, kitch e n equipm ent, clean
ing supplies, and w a re-w a shing machines. When we ta lk
ab o u t m anaging physical assets, we are considering how
a n yth in g th a t you m ust purchase o r pay f o r a ffe c ts your
a b ility to do business w ell. The f ir s t ste p in bring ing the
expenses a sso cia te d w ith you r physical assets under
c o n tro l is to know w h a t your expenses a ctu a lly are. Then
you can begin th e process o f m aking the ad ju stm e nts
and in s titu tin g th e c o n tro l system s th a t w ill keep your
o rg a n iza tio n o p e ra tin g a t m axim al e ffic ie n c y . One o f
th e b ig g e s t expenses fo r any re s ta u ra n t w ill always be
fo o d and beverage costs. You o r your purchasing agent
w ill have to w o rk hard to develop and sustain a good
purchasing system . The in fo rm a tio n fo u n d in P art Two o f
th is book can help. Because each op e ra tio n has d iffe re n t
needs, th e re are no h a rd -a n d -fa s t rules, ju s t princip le s
th a t you w ill ap ply to you r own situ a tio n .
M ANAGING INFORMATION
gets. If you are n o t using a system capable o f tra c k in g all
You may o fte n fe e l th a t you can never keep cu rre n t in all
th is in fo rm a tio n and m ore, you cannot be as e ffe c tiv e as
th e im p o rta n t areas o f your w ork. Given the sheer v o l
you need to be.
ume o f in fo rm a tio n being ge n e ra te d each day, you are
Become a g o od manager. M anaging a re sta u ra n t, or
p ro b a b ly rig h t. The a b ility to ta p in to the in fo rm a tio n
any o th e r business, is a jo b th a t req uire s th e a b ility to
reso urce s you need, using all ty p e s o f m edia and te c h
handle fo u r areas e ffe c tiv e ly : physical assets, in fo rm a
nology, has never been m ore im p o rta n t. R estaurants,
tio n , people (human resources), and tim e . The g re a te r
menus, and tre n d s in dinin g room design have all been
your sk ills in m anaging any o f the se areas, th e g re a te r
d ra m a tic a lly im p a cte d by such s o c ie ta l tre n d s as busier,
your p o te n tia l f o r success. M any m anagem ent system s
o n -th e -g o life s ty le s and in crea sing in te re s t in w o rld
to d a y stre ss th e use o f q u a lity as a ya rd s tic k . Every as
cuisines. P re va ilin g ta s te s in p o litic s , a rt, fashion, m ov
p e ct o f your o p e ra tio n needs to be seen as a w ay to im
ies, and m usic do have an e ffe c t on w h a t people eat and
prove th e q u a lity o f service you p ro vid e your custom ers.
w here and how th e y w a n t to eat it. In fo rm a tio n g a th e r
As we look a t w h a t you m ig h t be e xp ected to do in o rd e r
ing can becom e a fu ll- tim e ta s k on its own. To make use
to manage e ffe c tiv e ly , th e fu n d a m e n ta l qu estio n you
o f th e in fo rm a tio n available, you m ust be able to analyze
need to ask, over and over, is th is: How w ould a change
and eva lu ate c a re fu lly to s if t o u t th e im p o rta n t m a te ria l
(or lack o f change) in a given area a ffe c t th e q u a lity o f
fro m useless data.
c h a p te r 1 IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
M A N A G I N G H U M A N RES OURCES
R e sta ura nt o p e ra tio n s re ly d ire c tly on th e w o rk and
d e d ica tio n o f a num ber o f people, fro m executives and
a d m in is tra to rs to line cooks, w a it s ta ff, and m a in te
nance and cleaning s ta ff. No m a tte r how large o r sm all
your s t a f f m ay be, th e a b ility to engage all your w o rke rs
in a tea m e f f o r t is one o f th e m ajor fa c to rs in d e te rm in
ing w h e th e r you w ill succeed o r not.
Your goal should be to cre a te an en viro n m e n t in
You m ust keep a p ro p e rly co m p le te d 1-9 fo rm on file

f o r every em ployee, and you should be fa m ilia r w ith the
re g u la tio n s th a t could a ffe c t you or th o se you employ.
The Im m ig ra tio n and N a tu ra liz a tio n Service (INS) w ilt
pro vid e th e necessary in fo rm a tio n .
M AN AG ING TIME
It may seem th a t no m a tte r how hard you w o rk or how
much planning you do, th e days arent long enough.
w hich all s t a f f fe e l th e y have a d is tin c t and m easurable
Learning new sk ills so th a t you can make the be st pos
c o n trib u tio n to make w ith in th e org an izatio n. The f ir s t
sible use o f th e tim e you have c e rta in ly ou gh t to be an
ta s k is e sta b lish in g clear c rite ria , o th e rw is e known as
ongoing p a rt o f you r care er developm ent. If you look
a jo b d e scrip tio n . Training is an o th e r key com ponent. If
over your op e ra tio n , you w ill see w here tim e is w asted.
you w a n t som eone to do a jo b w ell, you f ir s t have to both
In m o st op e ra tio n s, th e to p fiv e tim e w a ste rs are
explain and d e m o n stra te th e q u a lity sta n d a rd s th a t you
lack o f clear p rio ritie s f o r tasks; poor s t a f f train in g;
e xp e ct to see. You need to c o n tin u a lly re in fo rc e tho se
p o or com m u nica tion ; p o o r org an izatio n; and m issing or
stan dard s w ith clear, o b je c tiv e eva lu a tio n o f an em
inad equ ate to o ls to accom plish tasks. To com b at these
ployee's w o rk th ro u g h fee d b a ck, c o n s tru c tiv e c ritic is m ,
tim e w a ste rs, use th e fo llo w in g s tra te g ie s.
and, when necessary, a d d itio n a l tra in in g o r d is c ip lin a ry

m easures.
Invest tim e in reviewing daily opera tions. Consider

th e w ay you, you r cow orkers, and you r s t a f f spend the
The m anagem ent o f human resources includes
day. Does everyone have a basic un de rsta n d in g o f which
several legal re s p o n s ib ilitie s . Everyone has th e rig h t to
ta sks are m o s t im p o rta n t? Do th e y know when to begin
w o rk in an e n viro n m e n t th a t is fre e fro m physical haz
a p a rtic u la r ta s k in o rd e r to b rin g it to co m p le tio n on
ards. This means th a t as an em ployer, you m ust provide
tim e ? It can be an eye-opening experience to ta ke a hard
a w orkspace th a t is w ell lit, p ro p e rly v e n tila te d , and fre e
lo ok a t w here th e w o rkda y goes. Once you see th a t you
fro m obvious dangers such as im p ro p e rly m aintained
and your s t a f f need to w a lk to o fa r to g a th e r basic ite m s
equipm ent. Em ployees m ust have access to p o ta b le
o r th a t th e person who washes th e dishes is s ittin g idle
w a te r and ba th ro o m fa c ilitie s . Beyond th is bare m in i
fo r th e f ir s t tw o hours o f th e s h ift, you can ta ke steps
mum, you may o ffe r a lo cke r room , a laundry fa c ility
to re c tify th e problem . You can t r y to reorganize s to r
th a t pro vid es clean u n ifo rm s and aprons, or o th e r such
age space. You may decide to tra in the dishw asher to do
am enities.
W orkers' c om pensation, un em p loym e nt insurance,
som e prep w ork, or you can re w rite th e schedule so th a t

th e s h ift begins tw o hours later. U n til you are o b je ctive
and d is a b ility insurance are also you r re s p o n s ib ility . You
ab ou t w h a t needs to be done and in w h a t order, you can't
are re q u ire d to make all legal d e d u ctio n s fro m an em
begin th e process o f saving tim e.
ployee's paycheck and to re p o rt all earnings p ro p e rly to
Invest tim e in t rain in g others. If you exp ect som eone
s ta te and fe d e ra l agencies. L ia b ility insurance (to cover
to do a jo b p ro p e rly, ta ke enough tim e to explain the
any harm to your fa c ility , em ployees, o r guests) m ust be
ta s k ca re fu lly. W alk y o u rs e lf and you r s t a f f throu gh the
ke p t up to da te and a t adequate levels.
jo b s th a t m ust be done, and be sure th a t everyone un
You may also choose to o ffe r a d d itio n a l fo rm s o f as
de rsta nd s how to do th e w ork, w here to fin d necessary
sistan ce as p a rt o f an em ployee b e n e fits package. L ife
item s, how fa r each p e rsons re s p o n s ib ility extends, and
insurance, m edical and de n ta l insurance, assistance w ith
w h a t to do in case a q u e stio n o r em ergency com es up.
such th in g s as de pe nd ent care, a d u lt lite ra c y tra in in g ,
Give your s t a f f th e y a rd s tic k s th e y need to evaluate
and e n ro llm e n t in and s u p p o rt f o r tho se en ro lle d in sub
th e jo b and d e te rm in e if th e y have done w h a t was re
stance abuse program s are all ite m s o f w hich you should
quested, in th e a p p ro p ria te fashion, and on tim e . If you
be aware. In an in cre a sin g ly tig h t la bo r m arke t, a g e n e r
do n't in ve st th is tim e up fro n t, you may fin d y o u rs e lf
ous b e n e fits package can make th e d iffe re n c e in the
squandering precious tim e fo llo w in g your w o rkers
c alibe r o f em ployee you are able to a ttra c t and retain.
around, p ickin g up the slack and handling w o rk th a t

sho uldn't be ta k in g up you r day.
Learn to c om m u nic a te clearly. W h e th e r you are
adequate, e a sy-to -acce ss storag e space f o r common
tra in in g a new em ployee, in tro d u c in g a new menu item ,
ite m s such as w hips, spoons, ladles, and tongs. E le ctrical
or o rd e rin g a piece o f eq uipm en t, cle ar com m u nica tion
o u tle ts f o r sm all e q u ip m e n t ou gh t to be w ith in reach o f
is im p o rta n t. Be sp e cific, use th e m o st concise language
everyone. W hile you m ay be fo rc e d to w o rk w ith in the
you can, and be as b r ie f as po ssib le w ith o u t leaving o u t
lim its o f you r e x is tin g flo o r plan, be on the lo o ko u t fo r
necessary in fo rm a tio n . If ta s k s are handled by a num ber
p ro d u c ts o r sto ra g e s tra te g ie s th a t can tu rn a bad a r
o f people, be sure to w rite o u t each ta s k fro m th e f ir s t
ran ge m ent in to one th a t w o rks s m o o th ly and evenly.
step to th e last. Encourage people to ask qu e stio n s if
Purchase, replace, and m a in ta in all necessary tools.
the y d o n 't u n de rsta nd you. If you need help learning
A w e ll-e q u ip p e d kitch e n w ill have enough o f all the to o ls
com m u nica tion skills, con sid er ta k in g a w o rksho p or
necessary to p re p a re every ite m on th e menu. If you are
sem inar to stre n g th e n any w eak areas.
m issing s o m e th in g as basic as a sieve, your cream soups
Take s tep s to c re a te an o rd e rly w o rk environm ent. If
w ont have th e rig h t con sisten cy. If you have a menu w ith
you have to dig th ro u g h fiv e shelves to fin d th e lid to the
several sauteed a p p e tize rs, entrees, and side dishes,
storage c o n ta in e r you ju s t p u t th e s to c k in, you haven't
are you and you r line cooks w a itin g around w h ile the p o t
been using your tim e w isely. Planning w o rk areas ca re
w asher scram bles to g e t you re sto cke d w ith saute pans?
fu lly , th in k in g ab ou t all th e to o ls , in g re d ie n ts, and e q u ip
If you cant purchase new eq uipm ent, then th in k about
m ent you need f o r p re p a ra tio n and th ro u g h o u t service,
re s tru c tu rin g th e menu to even o u t the w o rkloa d. If you
and g ro up ing like a c tiv itie s to g e th e r are all tech niq ue s
can't rem ove a menu item , the n in ve st in th e to o ls you
th a t can help you organize you r w o rk b e tte r. Poor place
need to p re ve n t a slow dow n du rin g service.
m ent o f large and sm all to o ls is a g re a t tim e w aster. Use
planning your career path

W hether you are seeking an extern po sitio n or planning
your career upon graduation, understanding the various
Are you seeking a management training program, or

a direct hire position?
areas w ith in the h o s p ita lity in d u stry is im p o rta n t when
W hat is im portant to you the cuisine, management
laying the fo u n d a tio n fo r your career path. S e ttin g both
style, geographic location, number o f hours required
sh o rt- and lo ng -te rm goals w ill help you to realize the ca
per day/w eek, or working fo r a prominent chef?
reer th a t you are seeking. Knowing yo u rse lf and recogniz

ing your stre n g th s and weaknesses fa c to r in to th is equa
tio n as well. As a s ta rt, here are some general questions to
ask y o u rse lf as you begin to th in k about your career:
Are medical benefits, stock options, vacation time,

predictable schedule, or seasonal employment op
tions prerequisites fo r your choice?
Are additional skill sets or fu rth e r education re
W hat type of environm ent (corporate/business,

restaurant group/com pany, chain restaurant, inde
quired to reach your long-term goals?
pendent restaurant, fine/u p scale/casu al dining) do
Rank th e answ ers to the se qu e stio n s in o rd e r o f im p o r
you see yourself in?
tance to you and keep th e m in m ind as you se t goals fo r
Do you p refe r small or large volume?
you r career.
Do you p refe r fro n t of the house or back of the

house?
career opportunities for culinary professionals

C ulinary p ro fe s s io n a ls are needed n o t ju s t in h o te l d in
s o p h is tic a tio n , and fin a n c ia l and q u a lity c o n tro l means
ing fa c ilitie s and tra d itio n a l re s ta u ra n ts b u t in a v a rie ty
th a t all s e ttin g s , fro m th e w h ite -ta b le c lo th re s ta u ra n t
o f s e ttin g s pu blic and p riva te , c o n su m e r-o rie n te d
to th e fa s t-fo o d o u tle t, o ffe r in te re s tin g challenges.
and in s titu tio n a l. An increased em phasis on n u tritio n ,
Chapter 1 IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE PR O F E S S IO N
Some exam ples o f care er pa ths th a t are available
generally adhere to a M onday through Friday schedule.
to you are lis te d below, along w ith some general pros
Many corp ora tions operate executive dining rooms. The
and cons. As you con sid er a care er path, keep g ro w th in
degree o f s im p lic ity or elegance demanded in a p a rticular
m in d you m ay n o t be q u a lifie d f o r an exe cutive p o si
co rp ora tion determ ines w h at typ e o f foo d is o ffe re d , how
tio n im m e d ia te ly a fte r g ra du ation , b u t th o u g h tfu l pla n
it is prepared, and w h at s tyle o f service is appropriate.
ning can advance you r care er quickly.

R esorts, hotels, and spas o fte n have a num ber o f
Ca te rin g companies o ffe r a w ide range o f p o s s ib ili

tie s, fro m upscale event planning com panies to sm aller,
d iffe re n t dinin g fa c ilitie s , includ in g fin e -d in in g re s ta u
m ore casual menus. They p ro vid e a p a rtic u la r service,
rants, room service, c o ffe e shops, and banq ue t room s.
o fte n ta ilo re d to m ee t th e w ishes o f a special c lie n t fo r
The kitch e n s are large, and th e re w ill o fte n be separate
a p a rtic u la r event, such as a wedding, a c o c k ta il re ce p
butchering, catering, and p a stry kitchens on the prem ises.
tio n , or a g a lle ry opening. C a te rers may pro vid e o n -site
These e sta b lish m e n ts o fte n o ffe r a v a rie ty o f f r o n t- and
services (the c lie n t com es to th e cate re r's prem ises),
b a c k -o f-th e -h o u s e op tion s, upw ard and geographic m o
o ff- s ite services (the c a te re r com es to th e c lie n ts
b ility , and a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and many
prem ises), o r bo th. The v a rie ty o f o p tio n s depends on
have m anagem ent tra in in g program s.
th e size o f th e com pany and w h e th e r the y service on- or
Independent restaurants , such as b istro s, w h ite ta b le c lo th e sta blishm en ts, and fa m ily -s ty le re s ta u
rants, fe a tu re a fu ll menu, and the pa tro ns are served
o ff-p re m is e s events.
Home meal re p la c e m e n t (ca rryo u t) fo o d s e rv ic e
is g ro w in g in im p o rta n ce as m ore busy couples, single
by tra in e d w a it s ta ff. When seeking e m p lo ym e nt in th is
pro fe ssio n a ls, and fa m ilie s t r y to enjoy meals at home
realm, select a re s ta u ra n t based on cuisine type , chef,
w ith o u t having to spend tim e p re p a rin g them . These
and size. They are less like ly to o ffe r b e n e fits or a set
o p e ra tio n s prepare entrees, salads, side dishes, and
schedule.
d e sse rts th a t are packaged to be take n home. M any su
Bakeries and cafes o ffe r a sm a lle r e n viro n m e n t th a t

may specialize in s p e c ific areas (breads, w e dd ing cakes,
etc.). They may be less lik e ly to o ffe r b e n e fits .
R e s ta u ra n t g ro u p s/c o m p a n ie s o fte n have m u ltip le
concepts w ith in the group, and o fte n o ffe r the p o s s ib ility
p e rm a rk e ts now o ffe r th is service to th e ir custom ers.

In sales, com pany size ranges fro m larger, broadsp e ctru m d is trib u to rs to sm aller, specialized boutiques.
M any salespeople w o rk on com m ission, so wages can
flu c tu a te fro m pay pe rio d to pay period.
o f a m anagem ent tra in in g program a n d /o r geographic

m o b ility . M o s t have p a rtia l to fu ll b e n e fits packages.
P riv a te clubs g e ne rally pro vid e som e s o rt o f fo o d service. This may be as sim ple as a sm all g rill fe a tu rin g
sandw iches, o r it may be a co m p le te din in g room . The
d iffe re n c e is th a t th e gu ests are paying m em bers, and
th e fo o d costs are ty p ic a lly fig u re d d iffe re n tly than the y
w ould be f o r a pu blic re sta u ra n t.
Country club p o s itio n s m ay be seasonal, depending
A D V A N CE D O P P O R T U N I T I E S
The fo llo w in g o p tio n s m ay re q u ire e ith e r fu rth e r edu
catio n, s ig n ific a n t in d u s try experience, o r o th e r sk ill
sets. M o s t o f the se a lte rn a tiv e o p tio n s pro vid e a m ore
"n o rm a l o r "s e t w o rk schedule w ith a com prehensive
b e n e fits package.
TEACHING On a high school/vocational level, a
on lo catio n. C o un try clubs can range fro m very upscale
bachelors degree plus state certification is required.
fa c ilitie s to local g o lf clubs. M any have s e t hours and
At the college/university level, a minimum of a bach
provide b e n e fits. You m ust be ve ry w illin g to accom m o
elors degree in addition to significant industry ex
date the m e m b e rs'w a n ts.
perience (ACF certification is a plus) is required for
W ith con tra ct foodservice companies, many jobs
hands-on courses. A minimum of a m asters degree in
would be considered in s titu tio n a l cate ring (used in
addition to industry experience is required to teach
schools, hospitals, colleges, airlines, and corre ction al
liberal arts or business courses.
in stitu tio n s). This o fte n demands a single menu and a

cafe te ria where th e guests serve them selves, choosing
fro m the o ffe re d foods. Menu selections are based on the
needs o f the in stitu tio n 's guests, the o p era ting budget,
and the ad m inistration's expectations. These settin gs
ty p ic a lly o ffe r many fro n t- and back-of-the-house op
tio n s as w ell as a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and
C O M M U N IC A T IO N S /M E D IA /M A R K E T IN G /W R IT
IN G /FO O D S T Y LIN G M ost of these options will
require other education (a degree in marketing,
communications, or journalism ) in addition to ex
perience within the industry. Much of this work is
freelance. An entrepreneurial mind is an asset.
RESEARCH AND D E V E L O P M E N T -C o v e rs a wide
The ROAST CHEF (rotisseur) is responsible fo r all
range of em ploym ent opportunities th at may re
roasted foods and related jus or other sauces.
quire other degrees, such as food science, chemis

try, nutrition, or engineering, combined with indus
try experience.
The GRILL CHEF (grillardin) is responsible fo r all

grilled foods. This position may be combined with
th a t of rotisseur.
A REAL C H A L L E N G E
ENTREPRENEUR This is probably the most d if
ficu lt and most rewarding path, as you take all the
The FRY CHEF (friturier) is responsible fo r all fried

foods. This position may be combined with the
rotisseur position.
credit in good tim es and su ffer all the losses in hard
The VEGETABLE CHEF (entre metier) is responsible
tim es. A strong business mind and extensive plan
fo r hot appetizers and frequ en tly has responsibil
ning are required to be successful. Many businesses
ity fo r soups, vegetables, and pastas and other
do not turn a p ro fit fo r several years, so be ready to
starches. (In a full tradition al brigade system, soups
think long-term.
are prepared by the soup station or potager, and

vegetables by the legumier.) This station may also
THE K I TCHEN B RI G A D E S Y S T E M
be responsible fo r egg dishes.
The brigade system was instituted by Escoffier to
The RO UNDSM AN (tournant) or swing cook works
streamline and simplify work in hotel kitchens. It served
as needed throughout the kitchen.
to eliminate the chaos and duplication of e ffo rt that

could result when workers did not have clear-cut re
sponsibilities. Under this system, each position has a
station and defined responsibilities, outlined below. In
smaller operations, the classic system is generally ab
breviated and responsibilities are organized so as to
make the best use of workspace and talents. A short
The COLD-FOODS CHEF (garde manger), also

known as the PANTRY CHEF, is responsible for
preparation of cold foods including salads, cold
appetizers, pates, and the like. This is considered a
separate category of kitchen work.
The BUTCHER (boucher) is responsible fo r butch
age of skilled personnel has also made modifications in
ering meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. The
the brigade system necessary. The introduction of new
boucher may also be responsible fo r breading meat
equipment has helped to alleviate some of the problems
and fish items.
associated with smaller kitchen staffs.

The chef is responsible fo r all kitchen operations,
including ordering, supervision of all stations, and de
velopment of menu items. He or she also may be known
as the c h e f d e cuisine or executive chef. The sous c h e f
is second in command, answers to the chef, may be re
sponsible fo r scheduling, fills in for the chef, and assists
the station chefs (or line cooks) as necessary. Small
operations may not have a sous chef. The range of posi
tions in a classic brigade also include the following:
The SAUTE CHEF (saucier) is responsible fo r all
sauteed item s and th eir sauces. This position is
The PASTRY CHEF (patissier) is responsible for

baked items, pastries, and desserts. The pastry
chef freq u en tly supervises a separate kitchen area
or a separate shop in larger operations. This posi
tion may be fu rth e r broken down into the following
areas of specialization:
CONFISEUR (prepares candies and petits fours),
BOULANGER (prepares unsweetened doughs, as
fo r breads and rolls),
GLACIER (prepares frozen and cold desserts), and
o ften considered the most demanding, responsible,
DECORATEUR (prepares showpieces and special
and glamorous on the line.
cakes).
The FISH CHEF (poissonier) is responsible fo r fish
The EXPEDITER or ANNOUNCER (aboyeur) accepts
item s and th eir sauces, o ften including fish butch
orders from the dining room and relays them to
ering. This position is sometim es combined with the
the various station chefs. This individual is the last
saucier position.
person to see the plate before it leaves the kitchen.

In some operations, this may be eith er the chef or
sous chef.
ch a p te r 1 IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
The CO M M UN ARD prepares the meal served to

s ta ff at some point during the sh ift (also called the
fam ily meal).
OTHER O P P O R T U N I T I E S
In a d d itio n to th e kitch e n and dinin g room po sitio n s, a
g ro w in g num ber o f less tra d itio n a l o p p o rtu n itie s exist,
The CO M M IS or apprentice works under a station
many o f which do n o t involve th e actu al p ro d u c tio n or
chef to learn how the station operates and its
service o f foo ds.
responsibilities.
THE D I NI NG ROOM B R I G A D E S Y S T E M
The dining room , or fro n t-o f-th e -h o u s e , p o s itio n s also
have an e sta b lish e d line o f a u th o rity .
FOOD AND BEVERAGE MANAGERS oversee all food

and beverage outlets in hotels and other large estab
lishments.
CONSULTANTS and DESIGN SPECIALISTS will work
with restaurant owners, often before the restaurant
The MATTRE D'HOTEL, known in Am erican service
is even open, to assist in developing a menu, designing
as the dining room manager, is the person who holds
the overall layout and ambience of the dining room, and
the most responsibility fo r the fro n t-o f-th e-h o u se
establishing work patterns for the kitchen.
operation. The maTtre dhotel trains all service

personnel, oversees wine selection, works with the
chef to determ ine the menu, and organizes seating
throughout service.
The W INE STEWARD (chefde vin or sommelier) is
responsible for all aspects of restaurant wine service,
including purchasing wines, preparing a wine list,
assisting guests in wine selection, and serving wine
properly. The wine steward may also be responsible
W ELL-INFO RM ED SALESPEOPLE help chefs de

term ine how best to m eet th eir needs fo r food and
produce, introduce them to new products, and dem
onstrate the proper use of new equipment.
TEACHERS are essential to the g rea t number of
cooking schools nationwide. M ost of these teachers
are chefs who are sharing the b en efit of th eir experi
ence with students.
for the service of liquors, beers, and other beverages.
FOOD WRITERS and CRITICS discuss food trends,
If there is no wine steward, these responsibilities are
restaurants, and chefs. It will always mean more, of
generally assumed by the maTtre dhotel.
course, if the w riter is well versed in the culinary arts.
The HEAD WAITER (chefde salle) is generally in

charge of the service fo r an entire dining room. Very
often this position is combined with the position of
either captain or maTtre dhotel.
The CAPTAIN (chef d'etage) deals most directly
with the guests once they are seated. The captain
explains the menu, answers any questions, and takes
the order. The captain generally does any tableside
Some prominent members of the food media, such

as James Beard, Craig Claiborne, and Julia Child, have
been influential teachers and have w ritten landmark
cookbooks in addition to contributing to newspapers
and magazines and appearing on television.
FOOD STYLISTS and PHOTOGRAPHERS work with
a variety of publications, including magazines, books,
catalogs, and promotional and advertising pieces.
food preparation. If th ere is no captain, these re
RESEARCH-AND-DEVELOPMENT KITCHENS employ
sponsibilities fall to the fro n t waiter.
a great many culinary professionals. These may be
The FRONT W AITER (chefde rang) ensures th at the

table is properly set fo r each course, th at the food is
properly delivered to the table, and th at the needs of
the guests are promptly and courteously met.
The BACK W AITER or BUSBOY (dem i-c hefde rang
or commis de rang) is generally the firs t position
assigned to new dining room workers. This person
clears plates between courses, fills w ater glasses
and bread baskets, and assists the fro n t w aiter a n d /
or captain as needed.
run by food manufacturers who are developing new

products or food lines, or by advisory boards hoping to
promote their products. Test kitchens are also run by a
variety of both trade and consumer publications.
Challenges aside, th e fo o d s e rv ic e in d u s try is re w a rd
ing and spontaneous. It req uire s stam ina, drive, and
c re a tiv e in flue nce. Those who have m ade the g re a te s t
im p ressio n know th a t v irtu e s such as open com m unica
tio n , e ffic ie n t org an izatio n, p ro p e r m anagem ent, innova
tiv e m arke ting , and th o ro u g h a cco un ting are necessary to
prosper. In due tim e , your know ledge and experience w ill
gain w o rth y re co g n itio n .
the changing industry

T Y P E S OF A G RI CU L T UR E
SU STAIN ABILITY
Today chefs are more aware of the systems in place for
One current focus is on sustainability. In the world of
growing and producing the food we eat. It is im portant
food, "sustainability" refers to healthy ways of raising,
to be educated not only to answer questions th a t may
growing, and harvesting food and ensuring th at the land
arise from customers and diners, but also to be able to
can support both the grower and the crop into the future.
make educated choices fo r ourselves.
It is not simply healthy fo r consumers, but for plants, ani
Agriculture is a system involving cultivating the soil,
mals, and the environment as well. Sustainable farming
producing crops, and raising livestock. There are d iffe r
does not harm the environment through the use of harm
ent ways in which a farm er can approach this system; a
ful pesticides or genetically modified organisms (GMOs),
few options follow:
or through overfarming. Sustainable farms also take

care of their workers and are humane toward animals;
conventional agriculture
sustainable agriculture respects the farmers by paying
An industrialized agricultural system characterized by
them a fair wage. Sustainability is meant to support and
mechanization
monocultures (less biodiversity)
improve the community, especially the rural communities

where farms are based.
Consumers, chefs, and restaurateurs are all becom
synthetic inputs such as chemical fe rtilize rs and

pesticides
maximizing productivity and p ro fita b ility
organic agriculture
Agriculture involving
ing increasingly aware of the positive effe cts of sustain

ability and how to live a sustainable lifestyle. A restau
rant can support sustainability in a number of ways:
1. BUY LOCALLY. This allows the chef to know the qual
ity and conditions under which the food they are using
is raised, grown, or harvested. Buying locally increases
renewable resources and biological cycles, such as

composting
awareness of seasonality, and supports the local

economy items that have traveled far have often
no genetically m odified organisms
lost quality and freshness.This concept also appeals
no synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fe rtilize rs
to customers who are becoming more aware of the
no synthetic feeds, growth hormones, or antibiotics

heightened compassion fo r animal w elfare
importance of sustainability and use of local products.

2. USE HEIRLOOM PRODUCTS. Heirloom products are
d ifferen t from most available commercially. An "heir
biodynamic agriculture
loom plant is defined as any garden plant that has
Beyond organic, biodynamic agriculture considers the:
been passed down within a food family. Some heir
dynamic, metaphysical, and spiritual aspects of the

farm
loom seeds are from plants
50 to 100 years old (mak
ing them entirely free of GMOs), and have a unique

genetic composition compared with their commercial
balance between physical and nonphysical realms
counterparts. They may provide new textures, colors,
cosmic events, such as planting according to the
and flavors th at chefs can incorporate into any menu.
phases of the moon
The food industry is intrinsically woven into the fab
Heirloom products are

open-pollinated, yielding like offspring
ric o f culture. The industry and every profession within
a distinct variety of plant
it reflect cultural and societal changes, some superficial
generally not comm ercially grown
while others are foundational. These reflections can be

seen in almost every aspect of the industry, such as how
a product of tradition al methods
food is prepared, w hat kinds and types of food are eaten
usually grown on a small scale
more readily, and menu and recipe development.
o ften tied to a particular region
o ften has been in use fo r 40 to 50 years or more
ch a p te r 1 IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
3. BUILD A SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANT. Chefs and
meals. By ta k in g a look a t som e o f th e w o rld s m ajor re
restaurateurs can use the concepts of sustainability
ligions, it is easy to see th e ir in flue nce on cuisine. E dicts
in other ways in the restaurant going far beyond
fa v o rin g or p ro h ib itin g ce rta in foo ds, as w e ll as a calen
simply the food used on the menu. Using solar or wind
dar o f fe a s tin g , fa s tin g , and ce le b ra tin g ritu a ls, are o f
power, for example, decreases energy costs and the
te n w idesp rea d enough in an area to co lo r the way th a t a
use of fossil fuels. The chef can implement a recycling
cuisine evolves and w h a t is w id e ly held to be au then tic.
program that includes not only glass, plastic, or paper
For exam ple, w ith its p ro s c rip tio n against e a tin g m eat
but also waste oil that could be converted into biofuel.
f o r ce rta in castes, H induism has c o n trib u te d to a cuisine
Check for local and national resources to learn about
w ith a s tro n g tra d itio n o f m ea tless dishes.
the many ways to make a restaurant more sustain

able.
There has p ro b a b ly never been a tim e when th e m i

g ra tio n o f fo o d s fro m one p a rt o f the w o rld to an othe r
has n o t been a fa c to r in a developing cuisine. W hile
G L O B A L I Z A T I O N OF F LA VOR S
A n o th e r ever-changing asp ect o f th e fo o d in d u s try since
the beginning o f tim e is th e glo b a l sharing and blending
o f cuisines.
Cuisine, like any cu ltu ra l ele m e n t o f s o cie ty, has
geographic, religiou s, and m any o th e r in flue nces th a t
shape its de velopm ent. C onversely, a cu isin e once
de velope d e xe rts in flue nce on th e c u ltu re o f its land
o f origin as w ell as on any o u tsid e cu ltu re s w ith which it
may come in c o n ta ct. E lem ents o f th e cuisine may shape
events o r ce le b ra tio n s th a t becom e cu ltu ra l norm s, or
may be a ssim ila te d in to an o th e r cu ltu re , becom e in tr in
sic to it, and the n w o rk to shape or drive a g ric u ltu ra l de
mands and pra ctices.
In th is co n te xt, any meal is m ore than m ere s u s te
nance. For to d a y s ch e f o r s tu d e n t o f th e culina ry arts,
th is in fo rm a tio n can be o f value; id e n tify in g basic fo o d s
and p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s th a t tra n s la te across cui
sines, cultu res, and c o n tin e n ts is an im p o rta n t p a rt o f
the culina ry p ro fe ssio n . Any cuisine is a re fle c tio n o f
m ore than ju s t a c o lle c tio n o f in g re d ie n ts, coo kin g u te n
sils, and dishes fro m a geographic lo catio n. These e le
m ents are u n d o u b te d ly c ritic a l to e sta b lish in g a culinary
id e n tity . B ut th e y are not, all on th e ir own, a cuisine.
Shared tra d itio n s and b e lie fs also give a cuisine a
p a rtic u la r id e n tity . A cu ltu ra l cuisine is an im p o rta n t e le
m ent in de veloping and m a in ta in in g a g ro u p s id e n tity .
And perhaps m o st re le va n t fro m today's pe rspe ctive,
a system o f governance and tra d e th a t encourages the
"m igration" o f fo o d s and dishes fro m one place to another
s tro n g ly in flue nces cuisine. The presence or absence o f
a sho reline has a tre m e n d o u s im p a ct on a developing
coo kin g s tyle . C lim ate and soil co m p o sitio n , as w e ll as
fa rm in g techniques, also have a s tro n g influence.
A cuisine also gives us a way to express and e s ta b
lish custo m s fo r m eals (w h at is eaten, when, and w ith
whom), fro m sim p le m eals to ce le b ra tio n s and ritu a l
the se exchanges are m ore rapid and fre q u e n t in m odern

tim e s, th e y have always been ap pa rent. S om etim es
the se exchanges had a g re a t deal to do w ith th e con
q u e st o f lands by an invading fo rce . O th er tim e s, tra d e
and its asso cia te d a c tiv itie s played a m ajor role.
W h e th e r benign o r aggressive, a system o f culina ry
exchange is p a rt o f any cuisine's s to ry . New in g re d ie n ts
fin d th e ir w ay in to tra d itio n a l dishes. O ver tim e , the
new in g re d ie n t becom es so fir m ly entrenched, we may
even fo rg e t th a t th e dish w ould n o t be recognized as
a u th e n tic. A cle ar exam ple o f th is can be seen w ith the
a d o p tio n o f m any in g re d ie n ts th a t w ere na tive to the
A m ericas, such as th e to m a to . Today, who could im agine
Ita lia n cuisine w ith o u t th e to m a to ? It is so em bedded in
th e c o u n try s cuisine th a t anyone could easily m istake
Ita ly as its land o f origin.
Techniques are also a w indow in to the cooking o f a
spe cific cuisine. As you m ight expect, a technique can have
a d iffe re n t name as you tra ve l fro m one region to another.
C ertain cooking s tyles are popular in a given region o f the
w orld because they are suited to the life s ty le and living
conditions; oth ers may remain v irtu a lly unknown.
The stu d y o f any single cuisine is a m u ltifa c e te d
un de rta king . C uisines have never developed in a vacuum.
As you probe m ore deeply in to th e h is to ric a l origins
o f th e recipe in your hand tod ay, you may fin d in g re d i
ents th a t tra v e le d fro m E ast to W est or fro m th e Old
W orld to th e New W orld in place o f an e a rlie r op tion .
T ra d itio n a l m etho ds o f cooking a dish may have changed
w ith th e tim e s o r to m ee t th e special challenges o f
coo kin g f o r large groups o r in a re s ta u ra n t s e ttin g .
Know ing th e classic tech niq ue s and cuisine o f a cul
tu re (w h e th e r France, India, o r beyond) is always h e lp fu l
when you choose to m od ern ize o r change a tra d itio n a l
recipe. Read cookbooks, v is it re s ta u ra n ts and o th e r
cou ntrie s, and keep an open m ind in o rd e r to experience
a w ide v a rie ty o f w o rld cuisines.
menus and
recipes
Menus are used in the dining room to give both wait s ta ff arid guests
important information about what the establishment offers. Recipes give
detailed instructions to aid kitchen s ta ff in producing tpenu items. More
than that, carefully designed menus and comprehensive recipes can help
Jmi
the professional chef streamline kitchen operatiorwand control costs.
CHAPTER
menus
A menu is a p o w e rfu l to o l: It is a m a rk e tin g and m erchan
com p on ents o r to p la te and garnish it. The p re p a ra tio n
dising vehicle. It e sta b lish e s and re in fo rc e s th e to ta l
o f c e rta in garnishes, side dishes, sauces, o r m arinades
re s ta u ra n t con cep t fro m th e s ty le o f china and fla tw a re
may be organized so th a t all com p on ents o f a recipe are
to s t a f f tra in in g needs. It can a ssist th e ch e f in o rg a
p re pa red by th e ch e f o r cook fo r th a t sta tio n , o r it may
nizing th e day's w o rk, o rd e rin g fo o d , red ucing w aste,
be th a t prep cooks pre pa re som e o f the com ponents.
and increasing p ro fits . The w ay a menu is developed or

adapted, as w ell as th e w ay menu prices are esta blished ,
A la c a rte and ba nq ue t menus call fo r c e rta in typ e s

o f advance w o rk to help th e ch e f ad ju st to th e w o rkflo w .
are re fle c tio n s o f how w e ll th e o p era tion's con cep t or
Even if a w ritte n menu is n o t p ro vid ed to th e guest,
business plan has been de fine d. S om e tim es th e menu
some fo rm o f menu lis t in th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n is
evolves as th e business plan is re fin e d . In o th e r scenar
e sse n tia l to th e kitchen's sm oo th op e ra tio n . C onsult
ios, the con cep t comes f ir s t and th e menu com es later.
th e menu, d e te rm in e w hich ite m s you and each s ta ff
In s till oth ers, th e menu may be th e g u id in g p rin cip le
m em ber are resp on sible fo r, and the n read the recipes
th a t gives a p a rtic u la r stam p to th e way th e re s ta u ra n t
fo r th o se ite m s c a re fu lly so th a t you understand all the
con cep t evolves.
ta sks th a t m ust be p e rfo rm e d in advance o f service, as
Menus give th e kitch e n s t a f f v ita l in fo rm a tio n

such as whose re s p o n s ib ility it is to prepare th e dish's
w e ll as a t th e tim e o f p la tin g and serving the fo o d . In th is

way, service should proceed w ith o u t d iffic u lty .
recipes
A recipe is a w r itte n reco rd o f th e in g re d ie n ts and
ME A S UR I NG INGREDI ENTS ACCURATELY
p re p a ra tio n ste p s needed to make a p a rtic u la r dish. The

fo rm a recipe ta ke s depends on who w ill u ltim a te ly use
th e recipe and th e m edium in w hich th e recipe w ill be
presented.
B efo re s ta rtin g to cook fro m any recipe, the f ir s t
ste p is always to read throu gh th e recipe in its e n tire ty
to gain an un de rsta nd ing o f e xa ctly w h a t is required.
This ste p w ill a le rt you to any p o te n tia l surp rises the
recipe m ig h t contain, such as re q u irin g an unusual piece
o f eq uipm en t or an ove rnight coo lin g period. This is also
the p o in t at which you m ust decide if any m o d ific a tio n s
to the recipe are in order. Perhaps th e recipe makes only
te n p o rtio n s and you w a n t to make f if t y , o r vice versa.
You w ill have to co n ve rt th e recipe (see Using a Recipe
C onversion F actor (RCF) to C onvert Recipe Y ields, page
16). W hile increasing o r d ecreasing the yield, you may
discover th a t you need to make e q uipm en t m o d ific a tio n s
as w ell to accom m odate th e new volum e o f foo d. Or you
m ig h t decide th a t you w a n t to o m it, add, or s u b s titu te an
in gre die nt. A ll o f these decisions should be m ade b e fore
any in g re d ie n t p re p a ra tio n o r cooking begins.
Once you have read th ro u g h and evaluated or m o d i
fie d th e recipe, it is tim e to g e t your m ise en place t o
gether. In many recipes, th e in g re d ie n t lis t w ill in d ica te
how the in g re d ie n t should be p re pa red (e.g., p a rb o ilin g
or c u ttin g in to pieces o f a ce rta in size) b e fo re th e actual
cooking o r assem bling begins.
A ccura te m easurem ents are crucial to recipes. In o rd e r

to keep co sts in line and ensure con sisten cy o f qu al
ity and q u a n tity , in g re d ie n ts and p o rtio n sizes m ust be
m easured c o rre c tly each tim e a recipe is made.
In g re d ie n ts are purchased and used a c c o rd in g to
one o f th re e m easuring conventions: count, volum e, or
w e igh t. They m ay be purchased acco rding to one system
and m easured f o r use in a recipe a c c o rd in g to another.
C ount is a m ea sure m ent o f w hole ite m s as one
w ould purchase them . The te rm s each, bunch, and dozen
all in d ica te u n its o f cou nt measure. If the in dividu al ite m
has been processed, graded, o r packaged according to
e sta b lish e d stan dard s, co u n t can be a useful, accurate
w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts. It is less accurate fo r in g re
d ie n ts re q u irin g som e advance p re p a ra tio n or w ith o u t
any e sta b lish e d stan dard s f o r purchasing. G arlic cloves
illu s tra te th e p o in t w ell. If a recipe calls fo r tw o ga rlic
cloves, th e in te n s ity o f g a rlic in th e dish w ill change
depending upon w h e th e r th e cloves you use are large or
sm all.
Volume is a m easurem ent o f the space occupied by a
solid, liquid, o r gas. The te rm s teaspoon (tsp), tablespoon
(tbsp), flu id ounce (fl oz), cup, p in t (pt), q u a rt (qt), gallon
(gal), m illilite r (mL), and lite r (L) all indicate units o f volume
measure. Graduated containers (measuring cups) and
utensils for which the volume is known (such as a 2-ounce
readily accessible to all s ta ff members. Instruct kitchen
ladle or a teaspoon) are used to measure volume.
s ta ff to follow standardized recipes to the letter unless
Volume measurements are best suited to liquids,
instructed otherwise, and encourage service s ta ff to
though they are also used for solids, especially spices,
re fer to standardized recipes when a question arises
in small amounts. Tools used fo r measuring volume are
about ingredients or preparation methods.
not always as precise as necessary, especially if you
As you prepare a standardized recipe, be as precise
must often increase or decrease a recipe. Volume mea
and consistent as you can. Include as many of the follow
suring tools don't conform to any regulated standards.
ing elements as possible:
Therefore, the amount of an ingredient measured with
Name/title of the food item or dish
one set of spoons, cups, or pitchers could be quite d if

feren t from the amount measured with another set.
W eight is a measurement of the mass or heaviness
of a solid, liquid, or gas. The term s ounce (oz), pound (lb),
g ra m (g), and k ilo g ra m (kg) all indicate units of weight
measure. Scales are used to measure weight, and they
must m eet specific standards fo r accuracy. In profes
Yield inform ation, expressed as one or more of the

following: to ta l weight, to ta l volume, to ta l number
of portions
Portion inform ation fo r each serving, expressed as
one or more of the following: a specific number of
item s (count), volume, weight
sional kitchens, weight is usually the preferred type of

measurement because it is easier to attain accuracy
with weight than it is with volume.
ST A ND A RD I Z E D RECIPES
The recipes used in each professional kitchen are known
as s ta n d a rd iz e d recipes. Unlike published recipes,
standardized recipes are tailored to suit the needs of an
Ingredient names, expressed in appropriate detail,

specifying variety or brand as necessary
Ingredient measures, expressed as one or more of
the following: count, volume, weight
Ingredient preparation instructions, sometimes
included in the ingredient name, sometim es ex
pressed in the method its e lf as a step
individual kitchen. Preparing w ell-w ritten and accurate

standardized recipes is a big part of the professional
chef's work in all foodservice settings, as they include
much more than just ingredient names and preparation
steps. Standardized recipes establish to tal yields, por
tion sizes, holding and serving practices, and plating
information, and they set standards fo r cooking te m
Equipment inform ation fo r preparation, cooking,

storing, holding, and serving
Preparation steps detailing mise en place, cooking
methods, and tem peratures fo r safe food handling
(see Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points
[HACCP], page 36)
peratures and times. These standards help to ensure

consistent quality and quantity, perm it chefs to monitor
Service inform ation, describing how to finish and
the efficiency of their work, and reduce costs by elim i
plate a dish, add side dishes, sauces, and garnishes,
nating waste.
if any, and listing the proper service tem peratures
They also allow the w ait s ta ff to become fam iliar

with a dish so they can answer guests' questions accu
rately and honestly. For example, the type of oil used in
Holding and reheating inform ation, describing pro

cedures, equipment, tim es, and tem peratures for
safe storage
a dish may m a tter very much to a guest if it is an oil to

which he or she has an allergy.
Standardized recipes can be recorded by hand, or
Critical control points (CCPs) at appropriate stages

in the recipe to indicate tem peratures and tim es
electronically using a recipe management program or
fo r safe food-handling procedures during storage,
other computerized database. They should be recorded
preparation, holding, and reheating
in a consistent, clear, easy-to-follow form and should be
c h a p te r 2 M E N U S A N D RECIPES
recipe calculations
O fte n you w ill need to m o d ify a recipe. S om e tim es a re c
sim p ly m u ltip ly 5 chicken b re a sts by 10; no fu rth e r
ipe m ust be increased or decreased. You may be a d a p t
a d ju stm e n ts are necessary. O th e r in g re d ie n ts, such as
ing a recipe fro m a n o th e r source in to a stan dard ized
thicke ne rs, a ro m atics, seasonings, and leavenings, may
fo rm a t, o r you may be a d ju s tin g a sta n d a rd ize d recipe
no t m u ltip ly as sim ply, however. If a soup to serve fo u r
f o r a special event such as a banquet or a re ce p tio n . You
req uire s 2 ta b le sp o o n s o f flo u r to make a roux, it is not
may need to co n ve rt fro m volum e m easures to w eight,
ne cessa rily tru e th a t you w ill need 20 tab lesp oo ns (1V4
o r fro m m e tric m easurem ents to th e U.S. system . You
cups) o f flo u r to th icke n th e same soup when you p re
w ill also need to be able to tra n s la te be tw ee n purchase
pare it f o r fo rty . The only w ay to be sure is to te s t the
u n its and recipe m easurem ents. In som e circum stances,
new recipe and ad ju st it u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the
you may be called upon to increase or decrease th e sug
re s u lt and th e n be sure to reco rd th e measure!
g e sted p o rtio n size f o r a recipe. Or you may w a n t to de

te rm in e how much th e fo o d in a p a rtic u la r recipe costs.
O th e r co n sid e ra tio n s when c o n ve rtin g recipe yie lds

include th e e q u ip m e n t you have to w o rk w ith , the p ro
d u ctio n issues you face, and the s k ill level o f your s ta ff.
USING A RECIPE CONVERSION FACTOR (RCF)

TO CONVERTRECIPE YIELDS
To ad ju st th e yie ld o f a recipe to make e ith e r m ore
o r less, you need to d e te rm in e th e recipe conversion
fa c to r. Once you know th a t fa c to r, you f ir s t m u ltip ly
all the in g re d ie n t am ounts by it. Then you co n v e rt the
new m easurem ents in to a p p ro p ria te recipe u n its fo r
you r kitche n. This may req uire c o n v e rtin g ite m s lis te d
o rig in a lly as a cou nt in to a w e ig h t o r a volum e, o r ro u n d
ing m easurem ents in to reasonable q u a n titie s . In some
cases you w ill have to make a ju d g m e n t call a b o u t tho se
R e w rite th e ste p s to s u it your e s ta b lis h m e n t at th is

po in t. It is im p o rta n t to do th is now, so you can uncover
any fu rth e r changes to th e in g re d ie n ts o r m ethods th a t
th e new y ie ld m ig h t fo rce . For instance, a soup to serve
fo u r w ould be made in a sm all po t, b u t a soup f o r fo r ty
req uire s a la rg e r coo kin g vessel. However, using a la rge r
vessel m ig h t re s u lt in a higher ra te o f e va po ration , so
you may fin d th a t you need to cover the soup as it cooks
o r increase th e liquid to o ffs e t th e evaporation.
CONVERTING PORTION SIZES
in g re d ie n ts th a t do n o t scale up o r down e xa ctly, such as
S om e tim es it w ill happen th a t you also need to m o d ify
spices, salt, and thicke ne rs.
the p o rtio n size o f a recipe. For instance, say you have a
Desired yield
Origtnal yield
_ .
.
= Recipe Conversion Factor (RCF)
soup recipe th a t makes fo u r 8-ounce p o rtio n s, b u t you

need to make enough to have fo r t y 6-ounce p o rtio n s.
To make th e conversion:
NOTE: The de sire d yie ld and th e o rig in a l yie ld m ust

be expressed in th e same w ay b e fo re you can use the
fo rm u la . If your o rig in a l recipe says it makes fiv e p o r
tio n s, f o r exam ple, b u t does n o t lis t th e am o un t o f each
p o rtio n , you may need to te s t th e recipe to de te rm in e
w h a t size p o rtio n it a c tu a lly makes if you w ish to change
p o rtio n size as w ell. S im ila rly, if th e o rig in a l recipe lis ts
Determ ine the to tal original yield and the to tal de

sired yield of the recipe.
Number of portions x Portion size = Total yield
EXAMPLE:
4 x 8 fl oz = 32 fl oz (to ta l original yield)
the yie ld in flu id ounces and you w a n t to make 3 quarts,

you need to co n v e rt q u a rts in to flu id ounces b e fo re you
40 x 6 fl oz = 2 4 0 fl oz (to ta l desired yield)
can d e te rm in e the recipe conversion fa c to r.

The new in g re d ie n t am ounts usually need som e ad
d itio n a l fin e -tu n in g . You may need to round th e re s u lt or
co n ve rt it to th e m o s t lo gica l u n it o f m easure. For some
in gre die nts, a s tra ig h tfo rw a rd increase o r decrease is
all th a t is needed. For exam ple, to increase a recipe fo r
chicken b re a sts fro m fiv e servings to f if t y , you w ould
2 . Determ ine the recipe conversion factor and modify

the recipe as described above.
EXAMPLE:
Z = 7.5 (Recipe Conversion Factor)
Confusion often arises between weight and volume

measures when ounces are the unit of measure. It is im
portant to remember th at weight is measured in ounces,
but volume is measured in flu id ounces. A standard
volume measuring cup is equal to 8 fluid ounces, but the
contents of the cup may not always weigh 8 ounces. One
cup (8 fluid ounces) of cornflakes weighs only 1 ounce,
but one cup (8 fluid ounces) of peanut butter weighs 9
ounces. W ater is the only substance fo r which it can be
safely assumed th at 1 fluid ounce equals 1 ounce. For
all other ingredients, when the amount is expressed in
ounces, weigh it; when the amount is expressed in fluid
ounces, measure it with an accurate liquid (or volume)
measuring tool.
CONVERTING VOLUME MEASURES

TO WEIGHT
CONVERTING BETWEEN U.S. AND METRIC

MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS
The m etric system, used throughout most of the world,
is a decimal system, meaning th at it is based on m ulti
ples o f 10. The gram is the basic unit of weight, the liter
is the basic unit of volume, and the m eter is the basic
unit o f length. Prefixes added to the basic units indicate
larger or smaller units. For instance, a kilogram is 1 0 0 0
grams, a m illiliter is Viooo liter, and a centim eter is Vwo
meter.
The U.S. system, fam iliar to most Americans, uses
ounces and pounds to measure weight, and teaspoons,
tablespoons, fluid ounces, cups, pints, quarts, and gal
lons to measure volume. Unlike the metric system, the
U.S. system is not based on multiples of a particular
number, so it is not as simple to increase or decrease
quantities. Instead, either the equivalencies of the d if
You can convert a volume measure into a weight if you
feren t units of measure must be memorized or a chart
know how much 1 cup of an ingredient (prepared as
must be kept handy (see page 1166).
required by the recipe) weighs. This inform ation is avail
M ost modern measuring equipment is capable of
able in a number of charts or ingredient databases. (See
measuring in both U.S. and metric units. If, however, a
Weights and Measures Equivalents, page 11 66 .) You can
recipe is w ritten in a system of measurement for which
also calculate and record the inform ation yourself as
you do not have the proper measuring equipment, you
follows:
will need to convert to the other system.
1. Prepare the ingredient as directed by the recipe

s ift flour, chop nuts, mince garlic, grate cheeses,
and so fo rth .
2 . Set the measuring device on the scale and reset
the scale to zero (known as tore).
3 . Fill the measuring device correctly. For liquids,
use graduated measuring cups or pitchers and fill
CALCULATING AS-PURCHASED
COST (APC)
M ost food items purchased from suppliers are packed
and priced by wholesale bulk sizes such as by the crate,
case, bag, carton, and so on. Yet in kitchen production,
the packed amount is not always used for the same pur
pose and may often be broken down and used fo r several
to the desired level. To be sure th at you have mea
items. Therefore, in order to allocate the proper prices
sured accurately, bend down until the level mark
to each recipe, it is necessary to convert purchase pack
on the measure is at your eye level. The measuring
prices to unit prices, which are expressed as price per
utensil must be sitting on a level surface fo r an ac
pound, each, by the dozen, by the quart, and the like.
curate measurem ent. Use nested measuring tools
If you know the cost of a pack with many units, calcu
fo r dry ingredients measured by volume. O verfill
late the cost per unit by dividing the as-purchased cost
the measure, then scrape away the excess as you
of the pack by the number of units in the pack.
level o ff the measure.

4 . Return the filled measuring tool to the scale and
record the weight in either grams or ounces on your
standardized recipe.
APC
ADr
..
-------------------------- = APC per unit
Number of units
If you know the unit price of an item, you can d eter
mine the to tal cost by multiplying the as-purchased cost
(APC) per unit by the number of units.
APC per unit x Number of units = Total APC
ch a p te r 2 M E N U S A N D RECIPES
CALCULATING THE YI ELD OF FRESH FRUITS
CAL CUL ATI NG THE AS - P U RC H AS ED
AND VEGETABLES and D et e r m i n i n g Yi eld
Q U A N T I T Y (APQ) Using Yield Percent
Per cent
Because m any recipes assume th e in g re d ie n ts lis te d are
For m any fo o d item s, trim m in g is re q u ire d b e fo re th e
ready to cook, it is necessary to con sid er th e trim loss
ite m s are a ctu a lly used. In o rd e r to d e te rm in e an ac
when purchasing item s. In th is case, th e edible p o rtio n
cura te c o s t f o r the se item s, th e trim loss m u st be taken
q u a n tity m ust be c o n ve rte d to the as-purchased quan
in to account. From th is in fo rm a tio n , th e yie ld pe rce n t
t it y th a t when trim m e d w ill give the desired edible p o r
w ill be im p o rta n t in d e te rm in in g th e q u a n tity th a t you
tio n q u a n tity . The yie ld p e rce n t is used as a to o l when
need to order.
ord erin g.
F irst, reco rd th e as-purchased q u a n tity (APQ)

fro m th e invoice, o r w eigh th e ite m b e fo re trim m in g or
cu ttin g .
EPQ
= APQ
Yield percent
Exam ple: A recipe req uire s 20 pounds o f cleaned
EXAMPLE:
shredded cabbage. The yie ld p e rce n t f o r cabbage is 79
APQ = 5 lb ( = 8 0 oz) carrots
pe rcen t. When th e 20 pounds is d ivid e d by 7 9 pe rce n t
Trim th e ite m and c u t as desired, saving trim and ed

ib le p o rtio n q u a n tity in sep ara te con tain ers. W eigh each
se p a ra te ly and reco rd th e ir w e ig h ts on a co s tin g fo rm :
(0.79), th e re s u lt equals 2 5 .3 pounds, w hich w ill be the

m inim um am ount to purchase.
G enerally, th e as-purchased q u a n tity o b tain ed by
th is m ethod is rounded up, since the yie ld pe rce n t is
As-Purchased Q uantity (APQ) - Trim loss = Edible
an e stim a te . Some che fs increase th e fig u re by an ad
Portion Q uantity (EPQ)
d itio n a l 10 p e rce n t to account f o r human e rro r as well.
EXAMPLE:
M any processed o r re fin e d fo o d s have a 10 0 pe rce n t
It should be k e p t in m ind th a t n o t all fo o d s have a loss.
8 0 oz carrots (APQ) - 8.8 oz carrot trim = 7 1 .2 oz
yie ld, such as sugar, flo u r, or d rie d spices. O th er fo o d s

have a yie ld p e rce n t th a t depends on how the y are
sliced carrots
served. If, fo r exam ple, the in g re d ie n t is to be served by

N ext, d ivid e the EPQ by th e APQ:
th e piece (h a lf a cantaloupe), o r if a recipe calls f o r it by

co u n t (15 stra w b e rrie s), th e yie ld p e rc e n t is n o t co n sid
Edible Portion Q uantity _ y ie ld percent

As-Purchased Q uantity
ered; th e c o rre c t num ber o f ite m s m ust be purchased

in o rd e r to cre a te th e c o rre c t num ber o f servings.
However, if you are m aking a f r u it salad and you know
EXAMPLE:
you need 2 ounces o f cubed m elon and 1 ounce o f sliced

71 .2 oz sliced carrots (EPQ) _
gg
8 0 oz carrots (APQ)
s tra w b e rrie s per serving, you m ust con sid er th e yield

p e rce n t when ord erin g.
To convert the decimal to a percent, m ultiply by
CAL CUL ATI NG EDIBLE PORTION QU AN TI TY
100: Yield percent = 8 9 %
(EPQ) Using Yi eld Percent
NOTE: For m ore in fo rm a tio n on any o f the above
S om e tim es it is necessary f o r you to de te rm in e how
culina ry m ath to p ics, re fe r to M a t h f o r the Profe ssio n al
m any p o rtio n s can be o b ta in e d fro m raw p ro d u ct. For
Kitchen by Laura Dreesen, M ichael N othnagel, and Susan
exam ple, if you have a case o f fre s h green beans th a t
W ysocki.
w eighs 20 pounds and you need to know how many

4-ounce servings are in th e case, w h a t you need to do
f ir s t is d e te rm in e th e yie ld p e rce n t f o r green beans,
e ith e r by re fe rrin g to a lis t o f yie ld pe rce n t values or
by p e rfo rm in g a yie ld te s t. Once you know th e yield
pe rcen t, you can com p ute th e w e ig h t o f th e green beans
a fte r trim m in g .
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
EXAMPLE:
APQ x Yield percent = EPQ
4 oz tourneed carrots (EPQ) x S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed

EXAMPLE:
carrots (EPC) = $ 0 ,5 6 4 per serving (to ta l cost)
2 0 lb green beans (APQ) x 0 .8 8 (Yield percent) =

17.6 lb green beans (EPQ)
CAL CUL AT I NG THE VALUE OF
The edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (EPQ) w ould be 17.6

pounds. The second ste p w ould be to com p ute how many
4-ounce servings th e re are in 17.6 pounds. If necessary,
c o n ve rt th e p o rtio n size (here, 4 ounces) to th e same
u n it o f m easure as th e edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (here,
1 pound). There are 16 ounces in 1 pound; 1 p o rtio n is
equal to V\ (or 0.25) pound.
EPQ
U SABLE TRI M
O ften , som e o f th e trim m in g s fro m a fo o d may be
used to pre pa re o th e r fo o d s. For exam ple, i f you have
to u rn e e d a c a rro t, ra th e r than c u ttin g it in to dice or
rounds, you can use th e trim to prepare a soup, puree, or
o th e r dish. U sing th e in fo rm a tio n fro m your y ie ld te s t,
you can calcula te th e value o f th e trim . F irst, de term in e
= Number of servings
Portion size
th e use f o r th e trim , the n fin d th e co st per u n it and yield

p e rc e n t f o r th a t in g re d ie n t, as if you had to buy it to
pre pa re th e dish. For instance, if you use th e trim fro m
c a rro t to u rn e e s to pre pa re a soup, th e fo o d cost fo r
EXAMPLE:
th e c a rro t trim is th e same as f o r a c a rro t th a t has been

17.6 lb green beans (EPQ)
.
-----------
5
= 70 .4 servings
0.25 lb serving size
trim m e d and chopped.

EXAMPLE:
You w ould be able to o b ta in seve nty fu ll servings

fro m th e case o f green beans. You should round down
any p a rtia l num ber o f p o rtio n s since it w ould n o t be
plau sible to serve a p a rtia l p o rtio n to a guest.
SO.1 0 6 (As-purchased
cost of carrots per ounce) _ S 0.1 19 (value of
0 .8 9 (Yield percent fo r
chopped carrots)
usable carrot trim

fo r soup per ounce)
CALCULATI NG EDIBLE PORTION COST

As discussed earlier, recipes o fte n assume in g re d ie n ts
are ready to cook, so when it com es to co s tin g a recipe,
the edible p o rtio n co st (EPC) per u n it can be calcula ted
fro m th e as-purchased co s t (APC) pe r unit, as long as
the edible p o rtio n is expressed in th e same u n it o f m ea
sure as th e c o s t unit.
APC
Some p ro d u c ts produce trim th a t can be used in

a v a rie ty o f ways. For exam ple, a s trip loin produces
trim m in g s th a t can be used in several recipes. The chef
may use som e o f th e trim to prepare a c la rific a tio n th a t
m ig h t o th e rw is e re q u ire ground m eat, and m ore o f the
trim to make a fillin g f o r fa jita s . F inding a d d itio n a l uses
f o r trim reduces co sts and helps to e lim in a te w aste.
: EPC
Yield percent
EXAMPLE:
S 0 .1 0 6 /o z carrots (APC)
0.7 5 (Yield % fo r
= S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed
carrots (EPC)
tourneed carrots)
EPQ x EPC = Total cost
using recipes effectively

In th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, a recipe can be used to
a w hole b e e f te n d e rlo in and how much you are a ctu a lly
im prove e ffic ie n c y and o rg a n iza tio n and to increase
paying per pound f o r th e trim m e d m eat you serve, you
p ro fits . When you know th e a p p ro xim a te yie ld pe rce n t
can be m ore e ffe c tiv e a t reducing loss and decreas
f o r onions and ca rro ts, you can g e t th e rig h t am o un t fo r
ing th e o p e ra tio n s overall fo o d costs. Learning to read
a recipe in a single v is it to th e w a lk-in . If you un derstand
recipes c a re fu lly and using the m m ore p ro d u c tiv e ly is an
th e d iffe re n c e be tw ee n th e price you paid per pound fo r
im p o rta n t ste p in de veloping you r p ro fe ssio n a l skills.
the butchers yield test

The purpose of a butchers yield test is to find the accu
GENERAL PROCEDURES
rate costs of fabricated meats, fish, and poultry. This is
Select the item to be tested and record the as-purchased
done to determine the amount of usable meat and trim
weight. (Make sure you use the same scale for the entire
from a particular fabrication and to calculate the value
test.) Fabricate the item to desired specifications. Keep
of all edible cuts, including not only the portion of meat
all parts (bones, fat, usable cuts, usable trim) in separate
served to the guest but also the value of bones used for
tubs or trays, and record all weights.
stock and of trim used for ground meat, pates, soups, or
Use current prices for the meat item as purchased.
other dishes.
Use market values for fat, bones, and usable trim. For
instance, if you save the lean meat to make ground meat,
the value of that part of the trim is the price you would
have to pay to purchase ground meat.
1. Determ ine the As-Purchased Cost (APC).

As-purchased weight x As-purchased price per lb = APC
EXAMPLE:
2 8 lb x S I.3 0 /lb = $ 3 6 .4 0 (APC)
2. Fabricate the meat.
EXAMPLE:
trim m ed # 1 0 3 beef rib roast to # 1 0 9 beef rib (roast-ready)
3. Determ ine the to tal trim weight and to tal trim value.
Fat trim w eight
Total trim weight
20
x M arket p
per lb
= Trim value (fa t)
per lb
= Trim value (bones)
per lb
= Trim value (trim )

Total trim value
EXAMPLE:
3 lb Fat
x SO .lO /lb
= $ 0 .3 0
+ 4 lb Bones
x SO .30/lb
= S I . 20
+ 5 lb Usable trim
x S I.3 0 /lb
12 lb Total trim w eight
= S6.50
= S8.00 Total trim value
4. Determ ine the New Fabricated W eight (NFW).

As-purchased weight - Total trim w eight = NFW
EXAMPLE:
2 8 lb As-purchased w eight - 12 lb Total trim w eight = 16 lb (NFW )
5. Determ ine the New Fabricated Cost (NFC).
APC - Total trim value = NFC
EXAMPLE:
S 36 .40 - S 8.00 = S 28.40 (NFC)
6. Determ ine the New Fabricated Price per Pound (NFPP).
NFC
= NFPP
NFW
EXAMPLE:
^ ^ 5 = S 1 .7 7 /lb (NFPP)
16 lb
7. Determ ine the Cost Factor (CF).

NFPP
= CF
As-purchased price per pound
EXAMPLE:
= ! 36 (CF)
$ 1 .3 0 /lb
8. Determ ine the yield percent.

NFW
As-purchased weight
= Yield percent
EXAMPLE:
--6 = 0.5 7 = 5 7 % (Yield percent)
281b
21
9. Determ ine the number of portions of final product from the fabrication.
NFW x 16 oz = Total number of ounces
Total number of ounces

,
,
- = Number of portions
Portion size (in oz)
EXAMPLE:
How many 12-oz portions can be obtained from 16 lb of trim m ed meat?
16 lb x 16 oz = 2 5 6 oz
= 2 1 .3 3 (21 full portions)

12 oz
10. Determ ine the cost per portion.

NFPP
r
. f1
------- -- = Cost of 1 oz
16 oz
Cost of 1 oz x Portion size = Cost per portion
EXAMPLE:
W hat is the cost of one 12-oz portion?
1 .7 7 /l b _ 0 .1 1 0 6 (cost of 1 oz; = 1 1 .0 6 cents/oz)

16 oz
0 .1 1 0 6 x 12 oz = S I . 3 3 (cost per portion)
22
the basics of
nutrition and
food science
Nutrition refers to the study of diet and health. It is through the
comprehension of this study that we as foodservice proJfSsionals can
Jp
accommodate and enrich diners' dietary preferences a#id restrictions.

Meeting the dietary needs of today's lifestyles invol)fes an understanding
that people eat or dont eat certain foods for diffejgmt reasons. The
concerns of customers have moved beyond just t i p flavor and texture
of food and now extend to a healthy diet full o f jp t r it io u s highquality foods.
Mf
nutrition basics
Beyond o ffe rin g fla v o rfu l o p tio n s, th e fo o d s e rv ic e p ro
o th e r in co m p le te p ro te in s, can becom e com p le te p ro
fe s s io n a l w ill b e n e fit fro m u n d e rsta n d in g how energy
tein s. W hen fo llo w in g a ve g e ta ria n diet, th e fo llo w in g
and n u trie n ts w o rk. To begin, energy and n u trie n ts are
co m b in a tio n s o ffe r a sam ple o f n o n-m e at-base d com
used f o r g ro w th , m aintenance, and re p a ir o f our bodies.
p le te p ro te in s:
Energy, counted in calories, com es fro m carb oh ydrate s,

pro te in , fa t, and alcohol. The f ir s t th re e are considered
p rim a ry n u trie n ts , w h ile alcohol is not. Any fo o d source
th a t has a good sup ply o f n u trie n ts in re la tio n to the
num ber o f calorie s it con tain s is considered n u trie n t
dense.
C A R BO HY DR AT E S
C arbohydrates pro vid e energy f o r m uscle m ovem ent
and red blood cells, and play a role in th e re g u la tio n
o f fa t m etab olism . Com posed o f sm a lle r u n its known
Grains and legumes

Lentils and rice
Pasta and beans
Tortillas and beans
Tofu and rice
Hummus and whole w heat pita
FAT
as sim ple ca rb o h yd ra te s and com ple x carb oh ydrate s,
F at is o fte n a s ig n ific a n t concern o f th o se w a tch in g
the se are necessary f o r th e body to w o rk e ffic ie n tly and
w h a t th e y eat. W hile it is tru e th a t excess f a t in th e d ie t
to f u lf ill its energy needs. S im ple ca rb o h yd ra te s (gener
is un healthy because it raises th e ris k o f c oro na ry he art
ally sugars) are fo u n d in fr u its and ju ices, d a iry pro du cts,
disease, o b e sity, and c e rta in cancers, f a t is s till an es
and re fin e d sugars. Com plex ca rb o h yd ra te s (generally
s e n tia l n u trie n t th a t pro vid es energy and fu lfills b o dily
starche s) are fo u n d in pla n t-b a se d fo o d s such as grains,
fu n ctio n s.
legum es, and veg etab le s. Foods co n ta in in g com plex
C u rre n t d ie ta ry advice places em phasis on the typ e
ca rb o h yd ra te s are also usually good sources o f o th e r
o f fa t as w e ll as th e am ount o f f a t in th e d ie t. M o s t o f
im p o rta n t com p on ents o f a h e a lth y d ie t, in clud in g v ita
th e da ily in ta ke o f fa t should come fro m m ono- and p o ly
mins and m inerals.
u n sa tu ra te d sources. A ltho ug h consum ing m ore than

th e recom m ended lim it o f f a t is o fte n a sso cia te d w ith
PROTEIN
P ro te in is a n u trie n t e sse n tia l f o r th e g ro w th and m ain
tenance o f body tissue s, f o r horm one, enzyme, and
a n tib o d y p ro d u ctio n , and f o r th e re g u la tio n o f b o d ily
flu id s . The basic bu ild in g blocks are re fe rre d to as amino
acids. There are nine e sse n tia l am ino acids th a t m ust
be sup plied th ro u g h the d ie t because th e body does not
produce them . A ll p ro te in -ric h fo o d s con tain some or all
o f th e nine.
P ro te in fo o d s are ca te g o rize d as e ith e r c o m p le te
or in co m p le te , depending on th e presence or lack o f
e sse n tia l am ino acids. A co m p le te p ro te in is a fo o d
th a t pro vid es all nine am ino acids in the c o rre c t ra tio to
su p p o rt th e p ro d u c tio n o f o th e r p ro te in s by th e a d u lt
w e ig h t gain and o b e sity, excess to ta l calories are the

ro o t o f th a t problem .
C h o le ste ro l is a fa t-re la te d com pound; the tw o
ty p e s are d ie ta ry and serum . D ie ta ry ch o le s te ro l is only
fo u n d in anim al fo o d s. Serum o r blood ch o le s te ro l is
fo u n d in th e b lo o d stre a m and is e sse n tia l to life . It is not
necessary f o r ad u lts to consum e c h o le ste ro l, because
th e human body is capable o f m a n u fa ctu rin g all the cho
le s te ro l th a t it needs in te rn a lly. Foods high in ch o le ste ro l
te n d to have high am ounts o f fa t. R egardless o f how
many calorie s are consum ed daily, it is recom m ended
th a t ch o le s te ro l in ta ke n o t exceed 3 0 0 m illigram s.
V I T A M I N S AND M I N E R A L S
human body. M eat, p o u ltry , and fis h are good sources o f
Needed in sm a lle r q u a n titie s than pro te in , ca rb o h y
co m p le te p ro te in s.
drates, and fa t, vita m in s and m inerals are noncaloric
Inco m p le te p ro te in s, such as veg etab le s, grains,
e sse n tia l n u trie n ts . V ita m in s are c la s s ifie d as e ith e r
legum es, and nuts, do n o t con tain all th e e sse n tia l amino
w a te r-s o lu b le o r fa t-s o lu b le . W a te r-so lu b le vita m in s
acids. However, each o f the se fo o d s con tain s some o f
dissolve in w a te r and are easily tra n s p o rte d th ro u g h o u t
the e sse ntia l am ino acids th a t, when com bined w ith
the body in the blo o d stre a m . F a t-so lu b le vita m in s are
stored in fa t tissues. Both form s of vitamins, as well
composed of a variety o f foods is the healthiest way to
as minerals, are found in many d iffe ren t food sources.
m eet normal nutrient requirements. For a listing of vita
Because no food contains every essential nutrient in the
mins and minerals with their functions and food sources,
correct proportions and no single pill or supplement can
re fer to page 26.
compensate fo r a poor diet, eating a well-balanced diet
menu development and nutrition

M anage the amount of fa t used both as an ingredi
When the diet offers balanced nutrition, obtaining

the necessary amount of energy and nutrients is easy.
ent and as part of a preparation or cooking tech
Although it is impossible to know what a customer
nique.
has consumed before entering your establishment, by
Serve appropriate portions of food.
predicting the combinations of courses th a t your cus

tomers are likely to order, you can design your menus to
ensure they receive delicious, nutritious, well-balanced
meals.
As the recommended dietary guidelines continue to
change, one thing remains the same: portion control is
essential to maintaining a healthy weight. Optimum por
Use salt w ith care and purpose.

O ffe r a va riety of beverages, both alcoholic and
nonalcoholic, th a t complem ent the food menu.
HEALTHY SUBSTITUTIONS
tion size fo r any individual depends primarily on his or
By making simple modifications to existing recipes,
her daily caloric requirements based on age, size, build,
healthier versions are within reach.
and level of physical activity. Fats, oils, and sweets are

suggested in very lim ited quantities. O ffering a menu
rich in grain products, vegetables, and fruits, low in fat,
saturated fat, and cholesterol, and moderate in sugars,
ORIGINAL
MO DIFIED
le g g
2 egg whites
Saute in butter
Sweat in broth/stock
1 cup mayonnaise
V i cup mayonnaise plus V i cup
salt, and sodium will help customers follow a healthy

plan.
nonfat yogurt
Because consumers have grown increasingly con

scious of the need to make well-balanced meal choices,
1 cup sour cream
1 cup nonfat yogurt plus 1 to 2
the professional chef has been given the opportunity
tbsp butterm ilk or lemon juice
to make a difference. Developing healthy, flavorful, and
plus 1 tbsp flour per 8 oz yogurt
satisfying menu items is both easy and worthwhile.
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup evaporated skim milk
The following is a set of principles developed for

healthy cooking. The guidelines are meant as a reference
Your establishm ent will find it rewarding to o ffe r a
fo r food selection, cooking techniques, and beverage o f
variety of options. Continually striving to m eet the ex
ferings. They should be regarded as ways to explore the
pectations of those who walk through your door should
possibilities of flavor and healthy cooking.
be an ongoing challenge fo r you and your staff. Consult

The Culinary Institute of America's Techniques o f
Select nutrient-dense ingredients.
H e a lth y Cooking fo r a more thorough discussion of nu

Store and prepare all foods with the aim of preserv
trition, innovative recipes, and specialized techniques.
ing th eir best possible flavor, texture, color, and

overall nutritional value.
Incorporate a variety of plant-based dishes in all
categories of the menu.
c h a p te r 3 THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
VITAMINS AND MINERALS: THEIR FUNCTIONS 6 COMMON SOURCES

W A T E R -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
M IN E R A L S
Name: B-complex (thiamin, riboflavin, niacin,
Name: Calcium (bodys most abundant mineral)
folate, biotin, pantothenic acid, B6, Bn)
Function: Used in the development o f bones and
Function: Allow for proper release o f energy in
teeth; regulates blood pressure; aids in muscle
the body
contraction, transmission o f nerve impulses, and
Food Source: Grains; legumes; vegetables; animal
clotting o f the blood
protein (B12 only found in animal foods)
Food Source: Dairy products (milk, yogurt);
Name: Vitamin C
broccoli; green leafy vegetables
Function: Increases bodys absorption o f iron;
Name: Phosphorus
aids in growth and maintenance of body tissue;
Function: Plays a key role in energy-releasing
boosts immune system; contains antioxidant
reactions; used in conjunction with calcium for
properties
maintaining bones and teeth
Food Source: Fruits and vegetables (berries,
Food Source: Animal protein; nuts; cereals;
melons, tomatoes, potatoes, green leafy
legumes
vegetables)
F A T -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
Name: Sodium and potassium (electrolytes)

Function: Aid in the regulation o f bodily
Name: Vitamin A
functions; help to maintain the bodys normal
Function: Aids in proper vision, bone growth,
fluid balance; involved in nerve and muscle
reproduction, cell division and differentiation;
functions
regulates immune system; maintains surface
Food Source: Sodium is plentiful in many foods;
linings
potassium is found in virtually all fruits and
Food Source: Animal protein such as liver and
vegetables
eggs; the precursorbeta caroteneis found
Name: Magnesium
in orange, deep yellow, and dark green leafy

vegetables
Function: Promotes healthy teeth and bones,
muscle contractions, nerve transmission, and
Name: Vitamin D
bowel functions
Function: Aids in proper bone formation
Food Source: Green vegetables; nuts; legumes;
Food Source: Milk; some cereal and breads; fatty
whole grains
fish; egg yolks
Name: Fluoride
Name: Vitamin E
Function: Helps to prevent tooth decay; may help
Function: Protects body from damage by free
to prevent osteoporosis
radicals; contains antioxidant properties
Food Source: Community water; saltwater fish;
Food Source: Nuts; seeds; seed oils; avocados;
shellfish; tea
sweet potatoes; green leafy vegetables

Name: Vitamin K
Name: Iodine
Function: Essential for the normal functioning of
Function: Aids in proper blood clotting
the thyroid gland; helps to regulate metabolism,
Food Source: Dark green leafy vegetables such as
cellular oxidation, and growth
spinach, kale, broccoli
Food Source: Table salt; cod; grains

Name: Iron
Function: Helps to carry oxygen from the lungs to
cells; involved in cellular energy metabolism

Food Source: Liver and red meat; whole grains;
legumes; green leafy vegetables; dried fruit
food science basics

There are dozens o f s c ie n tific prin cip le s a t w o rk d u r
p o rtio n o f the gas o r liquid clo se st to the heat source
ing th e coo kin g process. As an in tro d u c tio n to th e to p ic
w arm s f ir s t and becom es less dense, causing it to rise
o f fo o d science, th is se ctio n pro vid es an ove rvie w o f
and be replaced by cooler, denser p o rtio n s o f the gas or
th e m o s t basic o f th e se p rincip le s. For m ore in fo rm a
liquid. C onvection, th e re fo re , is a com b in a tio n o f con
tio n on any o f th e fo llo w in g sub je cts, re fe r to Readings
d u ctio n and m ixing.
and Resources (page 1 1 8 5 ) f o r a lis t o f fo o d science
C onvection occurs b o th n a tu ra lly and throu gh m e

chanical means. N a tu ra l con vectio n is a t w o rk in a p o t o f
references.
w a te r placed on th e stove to boil. C onduction tra n s fe rs
HEATTRANSFER
he at fro m th e stove to th e p o t to th e w a te r m olecules in

c o n ta c t w ith th e in te rio r o f th e pot. As the se w a te r m ol
C ooking is th e a ct o f a p plying heat to fo o d s to prepare

the m f o r eating. W hen fo o d s are cooked, changes in f la
vor, te x tu re , arom a, color, and n u tritio n a l c o n te n t occur
du rin g th e process.
There are th re e ways th a t he at is tra n s fe rre d to
fo o d s. C onduction is the d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een
ad ja cent m olecules. An exam ple o f con du ction is co o k
ing on a f la tto p range. H eat is tra n s fe rre d fro m th e m o l
ecules o f th e h o t range surface to th e m olecules o f the
ad ja cent pan b o tto m , the n fro m th e pan b o tto m to the
pan sides and th e fo o d con tain ed w ith in th e pan. The pan
m ust be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith th e range f o r c on du ction
to occur.
ecules heat up, con vectio n causes the m to move away

and be replaced by co o le r m olecules. This continual
m ovem ent re s u lts in con vectio n cu rre n ts w ith in the
w a te r. If a p o ta to is added to th e w a te r, th e convection
cu rre n ts tra n s fe r he at to th e surface o f th e p o ta to , at
w hich p o in t co n d u ctio n ta ke s over to tra n s fe r heat to
th e in te rio r o f th e p o ta to .
M echanical con vectio n occurs when s tirrin g or a fan
is used to speed and equalize heat d is trib u tio n . When
you s tir a th ic k sauce to he at it fa s te r and keep it fro m
scorch in g on th e b o tto m o f th e pan, you are c re a tin g m e
chanical con vectio n. C onvection ovens use fans to rap
id ly c irc u la te h o t air, a llo w in g the m to cook fo o d s m ore
Some m a te ria ls are b e tte r co n d u cto rs o f heat than

o thers. G enerally, m o st m e ta ls are good con du cto rs,
w hile gases (air), liquids, and n o n m e ta llic so lid s (glass,
ceram ic) are not. Because it re lie s on d ire c t con tact,
con du ction is a re la tiv e ly s lo w m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r,
b u t th e slow, d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een ad ja cent
m olecules is w h a t allow s a fo o d to be cooked fro m the
o u tsid e in, re s u ltin g in a c o m p le te ly cooked e x te rio r
w ith a m o is t and ju ic y in te rio r.
q u ickly and evenly tha n con ven tion al ovens. (N atural

con vectio n occurs in con ven tion al ovens as air in c o n ta ct
w ith th e h e a tin g e lem e nt circu la te s, b u t th e m a jo rity
o f heat tra n s fe r in a con ven tion al oven is th e re s u lt o f
in fra re d rad ia tion.)
Ra d ia tio n is th e tra n s fe r o f energy th ro u g h waves
o f e le c tro m a g n e tic energy th a t tra v e l ra p id ly through
space. R adia tion does n o t re q u ire d ire c t co n ta c t be
tw ee n th e energy source and fo o d . When the waves
Co nve ction is th e tra n s fe r o f heat th ro u g h gases or

liquids. When e ith e r o f the se substances is heated, the
tra v e lin g th ro u g h space s trik e m a tte r and are ab

sorbed, th e y cause m olecules in th e m a tte r to vib ra te
SIX BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCIENCE

Understanding how food reacts under certain conditions is essential to becoming a profes
sional chef. From creating a flavorful dish to developing an innovative shortcut, chefs face
challenges every day. The six basic principles of food science are as follows:
Caramelization
Maillard reaction
Gelatinization
Denaturation
ch a p te r 3 THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SCIENCE
__________ ^
________________________________________________________
m ore rapidly, in crea sing th e te m p e ra tu re . Two typ e s
cannot brow n fo o d s, and m e ta l cannot be used in them
o f ra d ia tio n are im p o rta n t in th e kitche n: in fra re d and
because it re fle c ts th e m icrow aves, w hich can cause
m icrow ave.
fire s and damage th e oven.
Sources o f in fra re d ra d ia tio n include th e g low ing

coals o f a charcoal g rill o r th e g lo w in g coils o f an e lec
tr ic to a s te r, broiler, o r oven. W aves o f ra d ia n t energy
tra v e l in all d ire c tio n s fro m the se heat sources. Foods
and coo kw a re th a t absorb th e energy waves are heated.
Dark, dull, o r rough surface s absorb ra d ia n t energy b e t
te r than lig h t-c o lo re d , polished, o r s m o o th surfaces.
T ransparent glass p e rm its th e tra n s fe r o f ra d ia n t en
ergy, so con ven tion al oven te m p e ra tu re s should be lo w
ered by a p p ro x im a te ly 2 5 F /1 4 C fro m con vectio n oven
s e ttin g s to o ffs e t th e a d d itio n a l energy tra n s fe r th a t
occurs when using glass ba kin g dishes.
M icro w ave ra d ia tio n , produced by m icrow ave ovens,
tra n s fe rs energy th ro u g h s h o rt h ig h -fre q u e n cy waves.
When these m icrow aves are absorbed by fo o d , the y
cause the fo o d m olecules to v ib ra te fa s te r, c re a tin g
heat. M icro w ave ra d ia tio n cooks fo o d much fa s te r than
in fra re d ra d ia tio n because it p e n e tra te s fo o d s several
inches deep, whereas in fra re d is m ainly absorbed at the
surface. Depending on th e ir co m p o sitio n , fo o d s re a ct
d iffe re n tly to m icrow aves. Foods w ith high m oistu re,
sugar, o r fa t c o n te n t absorb m icrow aves b e st and heat
up m ore readily.
M icro w ave coo kin g has a fe w draw backs, however. It
is be st su ite d to coo kin g sm all batches o f fo o d s. M ea ts
cooked in a m icrow ave oven lose g re a te r am ounts o f
m o istu re and ea sily becom e dry. M icro w ave ovens also
EFFECTS OF HEAT ON SUGARS AND

STARCHES: Caramelization, Maillard Reaction,
and Gelation
As discussed e a rlie r in th is chapter, carb oh ydrate s come
in various fo rm s, and each fo rm re a cts d iffe re n tly when
exposed to heat. The tw o fo rm s o f c arb oh ydrate s (sim
ple and com plex) th a t are o f in te re s t fro m a basic fo o d
science p e rs p e c tiv e are sugar and starch.
When exposed to heat, sugar w ill a t f ir s t m e lt in to
a th ic k syrup. As its te m p e ra tu re con tinu es to rise,
th e sugar syrup changes c o lo r fro m clear to lig h t y e l
low to a p ro g re ssive ly deepening brown. This brow ning
process is called caram elizatio n. It is a co m p lica te d
chem ical rea ction , and in a d d itio n to co lo r change, it
also causes th e fla v o r o f th e sugar to evolve and ta ke on
th e rich c o m p le x ity th a t we know to be c h a ra c te ris tic
o f caram el. D iffe re n t typ e s o f sugar caram elize a t d if
fe re n t te m p e ra tu re s . G ranulated w h ite sugar m e lts at
3 2 0 F /1 6 0 C and begins to caram elize a t 3 3 8 F /1 7 0 C .
In fo o d s th a t are n o t p rim a rily sugar o r s tarch, a
d iffe re n t re a ctio n , known as th e M a illa r d reaction, is
resp on sible f o r brow ning. This re a ctio n involves sugars
and am ino acids (the bu ild in g blocks o f pro te in ). When
heated, the se com p on ents re a ct and produce num erous
chem ical b y-p ro d u cts, re s u ltin g in a brow n co lo r and
in te nse fla v o r and aroma. It is th is re a ctio n th a t gives
INDUCTION COOKING
Induction cooking is a relatively new cook
good contact with the cooktop, and it must
ing method that transfers heat through
be made of ferrous (iron-containing) metal
a specially designed cooktop made of a
such as cast iron, magnetic stainless steel,
smooth ceramic material over an induc
or enamel over steel. Cookware made of
tion coil. The induction coil creates a
other materials will not heat up on these
magnetic current that causes a metal pan
cooktops. Induction cooking offers the ad
on the cooktop to heat up quickly, yet the
vantages of rapid heating and easy cleanup
cooktop itself remains cool. Heat is then
because there are no nooks on the smooth
transferred to the food in the pan through
surface of the cooktop in which spilled
conduction. Cookware used for induction
foods can get stuck, nor does spilled food
cooking must be flat on the bottom for
cook on the cool surface.
c o ffe e , chocolate, baked goods, da rk beer, and ro a ste d
based starche s (corn and w heat, f o r exam ple) thicke n
m eats and nuts much o f th e ir rich fla v o r and color.
at high er te m p e ra tu re s and break down m ore slowly.
Though th e M a iila rd re a ctio n can happen a t room

te m p e ra tu re , b o th ca ra m e liza tio n and th e M a iila rd
High levels o f sugar o r acid can in h ib it g e la tion, w hile the

presence o f s a lt can p ro m o te it.
re a ctio n ty p ic a lly re q u ire re la tiv e ly high heat (above

B 00 F /1 49C ) to occu r ra p id ly enough to make an ap
p re cia ble d iffe re n c e in foo ds. Because w a te r cannot be
heated above 2 1 2 F /1 0 0 C unless it is under pressure,
fo o d s cooked w ith m o is t heat (boiling, steam ing, poach
ing, stew ing ) w ill n o t brown. Foods cooked using d ryheat m etho ds (sauteing, g rillin g , or ro a stin g ) w ill brown.
It is fo r th is reason th a t many stew e d and braised dishes
begin w ith an in itia l b ro w n ing o f in g re d ie n ts b e fo re liq
uid is added.
D EN AT U R I NG PROTEINS
A t th e m o le cu la r level, n a tural p ro te in s are shaped like
coils or springs. When n a tu ra l p ro te in s are exposed to
heat, salt, o r acid, th e y d e n a tu re th a t is, th e ir coils
unwind. When p ro te in s denature, the y ten d to bond t o
g e th e r (coagulate) and fo rm solid clum ps. An exam ple o f
th is is a cooked egg w h ite , which changes fro m a tra n s
p a re n t flu id to an opaque solid. As p ro te in s coagulate,
th e y lose som e o f th e ir c a p a city to hold w ater, which is
Starch, a com plex carb o h yd ra te , has p o w e rfu l th ic k

ening p ro p e rtie s . W hen sta rch is com bined w ith w a te r
or an o th e r liq u id and heated, in d ivid u a l sta rch granules
absorb th e liq u id and sw ell. This process, known as g e la
tion, is w h a t causes th e liquid to thicke n. G elation occurs
a t d iffe re n t te m p e ra tu re s f o r d iffe re n t typ e s o f starch.
As a general rule o f thum b, ro o t-b a se d starche s (p o ta to
and a rro w ro o t, f o r instance) th icke n a t low er te m p e ra
tu re s and break down m ore quickly, whereas cereal-
w hy p ro te in -ric h fo o d s give o f f m o istu re as the y cook,

even if th e y are steam ed o r poached. F o rtu n a te ly, some
he at-in duce d d e n a tu ra tio n is re ve rsib le th ro u g h c o o l
ing. This is w hy ro a ste d fo o d s should be allow ed to re st
b e fo re carving; as th e te m p e ra tu re fa lls, some o f the
w a te r ("juice") th a t was fo rc e d in to spaces betw een the
p ro te in s is rea bso rbed and th e fo o d becom es m oister.
D enatured p ro te in s are easier to d ig e s t than natural
p ro te in s.
EGG STRUCTURE AND USES

The egg is composed of two main parts, the
proper structure in many items such as
white and the yolk. Various membranes help
angel food cakes, souffles, and meringues.
keep the yolk suspended at the center of
Egg whites are a key ingredient in clarify
the white and help prevent contamination
ing stocks and broths to produce con
or weight loss through evaporation. Whole
somme. They may also be used as a binder
eggs, as well as whites and yolks separately,
in some forcemeats, especially mousselines
play a number of important culinary roles.
made from fish, poultry, or vegetables.
Whole eggs are used as the main compo
The yolk contains protein, a significant
nent of many breakfast dishes and can be
amount of fat, and a natural emulsifier
prepared by scrambling, frying, poaching,
called lecithin. The yolk also has the ability
or baking, or in custards. In baked goods,

whole eggs are used as a glaze and to add
to foam. This function, plus its ability to
nourishment, flavor, and color.
to the preparation of such items as may
The egg white consists almost exclu
form emulsions, makes egg yolks crucial

onnaise, hollandaise sauce, and genoise
sively of water and a protein called albu
(sponge cake). Yolks also provide addi
men. Its ability to form a relatively stable
tional richness to food, as when they are
foam is crucial to the development of
included as a liaison in sauces or soups.
c h a p te r 3 THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
FU NC T I ON OF COOKING FATS
D epending on th e ir m olecu lar s tru c tu re , som e fa ts are
solid a t room te m p e ra tu re , w h ile o th e rs are liq u id a t the
same te m p e ra tu re . Fats th a t are liq u id a t room te m p e r
atu re are known as oils. S olid fa ts s o fte n and eve ntua lly
m e lt in to a liquid s ta te when exposed to heat.
In a d d itio n to being a v ita l n u trie n t, fa t p e rfo rm s a
a d d itio n a l m a te ria ls in th e fa t (e m u lsifie rs, pre se rva

tive s, p ro te in s, carb oh ydrate s) low er th e smoke point.
Because som e breakdow n occurs a t m od era te te m
pe ra tu re s and fo o d p a rtic le s ten d to g e t le ft in th e fa t,
re p ea te d use o f fa t also low ers the smoke point.
F OR MI N G E M U L S I O N S
num ber o f c u lin a ry fu n ctio n s. It pro vid es a rich fla v o r
An em ulsion occurs when tw o substances th a t do not
and s ilk y m o u th fe e l or te x tu re th a t m o st people fin d
n o rm ally m ix are fo rc e d in to a m ix tu re in which one o f
very enjoyable and s a tis fy in g . F at also ca rrie s and
th e substances is evenly dispe rsed in the fo rm o f sm all
blends the fla v o rs o f o th e r fo o d s, and m akes available
d ro p le ts th ro u g h o u t th e other. U nder norm al con ditions,
to us fla v o r com pounds and n u trie n ts th a t are soluble
f a t (e ith e r liquid o il o r solid fa t) and w a te r do n o t mix,
only in fa t. F at pro vid es an ap pe aling visu al elem e nt
bu t the se tw o substances are th e m ost com m on in g re d i
when a fo o d appears, am ong o th e r things, to be m oist,
ents in culina ry em ulsions.
cream y, flu ffy , or shiny. D uring th e baking process, fa t

p e rfo rm s a m u ltitu d e o f chem ical fu n c tio n s such as
An em ulsion con sists o f tw o phases, the dispersed

phase and the con tinu ou s phase. A v in a ig re tte is an
te n d e rizin g , leavening, aiding in m o is tu re re te n tio n ,
exam ple o f an o il-in -v in e g a r em ulsion, m eaning th a t
and c re a tin g a fla k y o r cru m b ly te x tu re . In cooking, fa t
th e oil (the dispe rsed phase) has been broken up in to
tra n s fe rs heat to fo o d s and pre ven ts the m fro m s tic k
ve ry sm all d ro p le ts suspended th ro u g h o u t the vinegar
ing. It also holds th e heat in fo o d , e m u ls ifie s o r thicke ns
(the con tinu ou s phase). T em porary em ulsions, such as
sauces, and cre a te s a crisp te x tu re when used f o r fry in g .
v in a ig re tte s , fo rm q u ickly and req uire only the m echani
One im p o rta n t aspect o f fa t is its a b ility to be heated
cal actio n o f w hipping, shaking, or s tirrin g . To make an
to re la tiv e ly high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t b o ilin g or o th
em ulsion sta b le enough to keep th e oil in suspension,
erw ise bre aking down. This is w h a t allow s frie d fo o d s to
a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts, known as e m u lsifie rs, are neces
brown and cook quickly. If heated to high enough te m
sary to a ttra c t and hold to g e th e r both th e o il and liquid.
pe rature s, however, fa t w ill begin to bre ak down and de
C om m only used e m u ls ifie rs include egg yolks (which
velop an acrid flavo r, e ffe c tiv e ly ru inin g a n yth in g cooked
con tain th e e m u ls ifie r le cithin ), m ustard, and glace
in it. The te m p e ra tu re a t w hich th is occurs, known as the
de viande. N a tu ra l starche s, such as tho se in ga rlic, or
sm oke poin t, is d iffe re n t fo r each fa t. G enerally, veg
m o d ifie d starches, such as co rn sta rch o r a rro w ro o t, are
eta b le oils begin to sm oke around 4 5 0 F /2 3 2 C , w hile
also used.
anim al fa ts begin to sm oke around 3 7 5 F /1 9 1 C . Any
food and
kitchen safety
The importance of food and kitchen safety cannot be overemphasized.
Few things are as detrimental to a foodservice establishment as an
officially noted outbreak of a food-borne illness caused by poor sanitary
practices. In addition to providing a sanitary atmosphere and adhering
to procedures for safe food handling, it is also important to ensure
a safe working environment. This chapter covers jfte causes of foodborne illnesses and prevention procedures, and/ikludes checklists
to help the s ta ff achieve sanitary and safe kitjn en conditions.
food-borne illness
Foods can serve as ca rrie rs fo r many d iffe re n t illnesses.
an in fe c tio n . Som e fo o d -b o rn e illnesses have ch a ra c te r
The m o st com m on sym p to m s o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses
is tic s o f b o th an in to x ic a tio n and an in fe ctio n . E. coli is
include abdom inal cram ps, nausea, v o m itin g , and d ia r
an agent th a t causes such an illness.
rhea, p o ssib ly accom panied by fever. These sym ptom s

may appear w ith in a fe w hours a fte r con sum p tion o f the
a ffe c te d fo o d , alth ou gh in some cases several days may
elapse b e fo re onset. In o rd e r f o r a fo o d -b o rn e illne ss to
be declared an o ffic ia l o u tb re a k, it m u st involve tw o or
m ore people who have eaten th e same fo o d , and health
o ffic ia ls m ust c o n firm it.
F ood-borne illnesses are caused by a d u lte ra t e d
fo o d s (food s u n fit f o r human consum ption). The seve r
ity o f th e illne ss depends on th e am ount o f a d u lte ra te d
fo o d in ge ste d and, to a g re a t e xte n t, th e in d iv id u a ls sus
c e p tib ility . Children, th e elde rly, and anyone whose im
mune system is already under siege g e ne rally w ill have
much m ore d iffic u lty than a h e a lth y a d u lt in c o m b a tin g a
fo o d -b o rn e illness.
The source o f th e co n ta m in a tio n a ffe c tin g th e
fo o d supply can be chem ical, physical, o r biolo gical.
Inse cticide s and cleaning com pounds are exam ples o f
chemical c o n ta m in a n ts th a t may a c cid e n ta lly fin d th e ir
way in to foo ds. Physical c o n ta m in a n ts include b its o f
glass, ro d e n t hairs, and p a in t chips. C areless fo o d han
d ling can mean th a t even an e a rrin g or a p la s tic bandage
could fa ll in to the fo o d and re s u lt in illne ss or injury.
Bio lo gic a l c o n ta m in a n ts account f o r th e m a jo rity
o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. These include n a tu ra lly oc
cu rrin g poisons, known as toxins, fo u n d in ce rta in w ild
m ushroom s, rhubarb leaves, green p o ta to e s, and o th e r
plants. The p re d o m in a n t b io lo g ica l agents, however, are
disease-causing m icro orga nism s known as pa thogens,
which are resp on sible f o r up to 95 p e rc e n t o f alt fo o d borne illnesses. M icro o rg a n ism s o f m any kinds are
p re se n t v irtu a lly everyw here, and m o st are h e lp fu l or
harm less, if n o t esse ntia l; only ab o u t 1 p e rce n t o f m ic ro
organism s are a ctu a lly pathogenic.
Food-borne illnesses caused by b io lo g ica l con
ta m in a n ts fa ll in to tw o sub categ orie s: in to x ic a tio n and
in fe c tio n . I n to x ic a tio n occurs when a person consumes
fo o d c o n ta in in g to x in s fro m b a cteria , m olds, o r ce rta in
plan ts and anim als. Once in th e body, th e se to x in s a ct as
poison. B o tu lism is an exam ple o f an in to x ic a tio n .
In th e case o f an in fe ctio n, th e fo o d eaten by an in d i
vid ua l contains large num bers o f liv in g pathogens. These
pathogens m u ltip ly in th e body and g e n e ra lly a tta c k the
g a s tro in te s tin a l lining. S alm on ellosis is an exam ple o f
FOOD PATHOGENS
The s p e c ific ty p e s o f pathogens resp on sible f o r fo o d borne illne sses are fun gi, viruses, parasites, and bac
te ria . Fungi, w hich include m olds and yeast, are m ore
ad ap ta ble than o th e r m icro orga nism s and have a high
to le ra n ce f o r acidic co n d itio n s. They are m ore o fte n re
spo nsible f o r fo o d spoilage than f o r fo o d -b o rn e illness.
B e n e ficia l fu n g i are im p o rta n t to th e fo o d in d u s try in
th e p ro d u c tio n o f cheese, bread, wine, and beer.
Viruses do n o t a c tu a lly m u ltip ly in fo o d , b u t if
th ro u g h p o or s a n ita tio n p ra ctice a viru s con tam in ates
fo o d , con sum p tion o f th a t fo o d may re s u lt in illness.
In fe c tio u s h e p a titis A, caused by e a tin g sh e llfis h har
veste d fro m p o llu te d w a te rs (an ille g a l p ra ctice ) or poor
hand-w ashing p ra ctice s a fte r using th e re stro o m , is an
exam ple. Once in th e body, a viru s invades a cell (called
th e h o s t cell) and e s s e n tia lly rep rog ram s it to produce
m ore copies o f the virus. The copies leave the dead host
cell behind and invade s till m ore cells. The be st defenses
against fo o d -b o rn e viru ses are good personal hygiene
and o b ta in in g s h e llfis h fro m c e rtifie d w a te rs.
P ara sit es are pathogens th a t fe e d on and ta ke shel
te r in a n o th e r organism , called a host. The ho st receives
no b e n e fit fro m th e p a ra site and, in fa c t, s u ffe rs harm or
even de ath as a re su lt. A m ebas and variou s w orm s such
as Trichinella spiralis, which is a sso cia te d w ith pork, are
am ong th e p a ra site s th a t c o n ta m in a te foo ds. D iffe re n t
p a ra site s rep rod uce in d iffe re n t ways. One exam ple is
the p a ra s itic w orm th a t e xists in larval stage in m uscle
m eats. Once consumed, its life cycle and re p ro d u ctive
cycle continue. W hen th e larvae reach a d u lt stage, the
fe r tiliz e d fe m a le s release m ore eggs, which hatch and
tra v e l to th e m uscle tissu e o f th e host, and th e cycle
continues.
B a c te ria are resp on sible f o r a s ig n ific a n t p e rc e n t
age o f b io lo g ic a lly caused fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. In ord e r
to b e tte r p ro te c t fo o d du rin g s torage, p re p a ra tio n , and
service, it is im p o rta n t to un de rsta nd th e c la s s ific a tio n s
and p a tte rn s o f b a c te ria l g ro w th . Am ong th e d iff e r
ent con ven tion s f o r the c la s s ific a tio n o f ba cteria , the
m o st re le va n t to che fs are th e ir re q u ire m e n t fo r oxygen
(a e ro b ic /a n a e ro b ic /fa c u lta tiv e ), th e ir e ffe c ts on people
(p a th o g e n ic /u n d e s ira b le /b e n e fic ia l/b e n ig n ), and th e ir
A lth o u g h coo kin g fo o d w ill d e s tro y many o f the
s p o re -fo rm in g a b ilitie s . A e ro b ic b a c te r ia req uire the
m icro o rg a n ism s pre sen t, careless fo o d handling a fte r
presence o f oxygen to grow. A na e ro b ic b a c te r ia do not
coo kin g can re in tro d u c e pathogens th a t w ill g ro w even
req uire oxygen and may even die when exposed to it.
m ore q u ickly w ith o u t c o m p e titio n fo r fo o d and space
F a c u lta tive b a c t e r ia are able to fu n c tio n w ith or w ith o u t
fro m th e m icro o rg a n ism s th a t cause spoilage. A lthough
oxygen. It is also im p o rta n t to know a t which te m p e ra
s h o rtc u ts and carelessness do not always re s u lt in fo o d -
tu re b a cte ria gro w best. C ertain b a cte ria are able to
borne illness, in a tte n tio n to d e ta il increases the risk o f
fo rm endospores, w hich serve as a means o f p ro te c tio n
c re a tin g an o u tb re a k th a t m ay cause serious illness or
ag ainst adverse circu m sta nce s such as high te m p e ra
even death. The variou s kinds o f expenses re la te d to an
tu re or de hyd ration . E ndospores allow an in dividu al
o u tb re a k o f fo o d -b o rn e illness, such as negative p u b lic
b a cteriu m to resum e its life cycle if fa vo ra b le co n d itio n s
ity and loss o f p re stig e , are blow s fro m which many res
should recur.
ta u ra n ts can never recover.
B acte ria re q u ire th re e basic c o n d itio n s fo r g ro w th

and re p ro d u ctio n : a p ro te in source, re a d ily available
m oistu re, and tim e . The higher th e am ount o f p ro te in in
a fo o d , th e g re a te r its p o te n tia l as a c a rrie r o f a fo o d borne illness. The am o un t o f m o istu re available in a
fo o d is m easured on th e w a te r a c tiv ity (Aw) scale. This
scale runs fro m 0 to 1, w ith 1 re p re s e n tin g th e Aw o f
water. Foods w ith a w a te r a c tiv ity above 0.85 s u p p o rt
ba cte ria l g ro w th . A fo o d 's re la tiv e a c id ity o r a lk a lin ity
is m easured on a scale known as pH. A m od era te pH a
value betw een 4.6 and 10 on a scale th a t ranges fro m 1
to 1 4 is b e st f o r b a c te ria l gro w th , and m o st fo o d s fa ll
w ith in th a t range. A dd in g highly acidic in g re d ie n ts, such
as vin eg ar o r c itru s ju ice, to a fo o d can low er its pH and
exte nd its s h e lf life.
M any fo o d s p ro vid e th e th re e co n d itio n s necessary
fo r b a c te ria l g ro w th and are th e re fo re con sid ered to
be p o te n tia lly hazardous. M eats, p o u ltry , seafood, to fu ,
and da iry p ro d u cts (w ith th e exce ptio n o f some hard
cheeses) are all ca te g o rize d as p o te n tia lly hazardous
foo ds. Foods do n o t n e cessa rily have to be anim al based
to con tain pro te in , however; veg etab le s and grains also
contain pro te in . Cooked rice, beans, pasta, and p o ta to e s
are th e re fo re also p o te n tia lly hazardous foo ds. There
AV O I D I N G CROSS C O N T A M I N A T I O N
M any fo o d -b o rn e illne sses are a re s u lt o f u nsanitary
handling p ro ced ures in th e kitche n. Cross con tam in ation
occurs when disease-causing elem e nts or h a rm fu l sub
stances are tra n s fe rre d fro m one co n ta m in a te d surface
to another.
E xce lle n t personal hygiene is one o f the be st de
fen ses ag ainst cross co n ta m in a tio n . An em ployee who
re p o rts fo r w o rk w ith a con tagiou s illne ss or an in fe cte d
cu t on th e hand pu ts every cu sto m e r at risk. Any tim e
th e hands com e in c o n ta c t w ith a possible source o f con
ta m in a tio n (the face, hair, eyes, and m outh) the y m ust be
th o ro u g h ly washed b e fo re c o n tin u in g any w ork.
Food is a t g re a te s t ris k o f cross c o n ta m in a tio n d u r
ing th e p re p a ra tio n stage. Ideally, sep ara te w o rk areas
and c u ttin g boards should be used f o r raw and cooked
fo o d s. E quipm ent and c u ttin g boards should always be
cleaned and th o ro u g h ly sa n itize d betw een uses.
A ll fo o d m ust be s to re d c a re fu lly to pre ven t c o n ta ct
betw een raw and cooked item s. Place d rip pans beneath
raw fo o d s. Do n o t handle re a d y -to -e a t fo o d s w ith bare
hands. Instead, use s u ita b le u te n sils or single-use fo o d handling gloves.
are also o th e r u n like ly can didate s th a t are ripe f o r bac

te ria l g ro w th such as sliced m elons, sp ro u ts, and g a rlican d-o il m ixtu re s.
Food th a t con tain s pathogens in g re a t enough num
bers to cause illness may s till look and sm ell norm al.
D isease-causing m icro orga nism s are to o sm all to be
seen w ith th e naked eye, so it is usually im p ossib le to
a sce rta in visu a lly th a t fo o d is a d u lte ra te d . Because the
m icro o rg a n ism s p a rtic u la rly th e b a c te ria th a t cause
fo o d -b o rn e illne ss are d iffe re n t fro m th e ones th a t
cause fo o d to spoil, fo o d may be a d u lte ra te d and s till
have no " o ff" odor.
Cross contam ination icon
Hand-washing icon
c h a p te r 4 FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
PROPER HAND WASHING

To reduce the chances of cross contamina
hands at the beginning of each shift and
tion, wash your hands often and correctly.
each new task, after handling raw foods,
Hands and forearms should be washed us
after going to the bathroom, sneezing,
ing soap and noF/43C water for no less
coughing, and so forth, and after handling
than twenty seconds. Be sure to wash your
any nonfood item.
KEEPI NG FOODS O U T O F T H E
th e y arrive in s a n ita ry co n d itio n s. Check the am bient
D ANGER Z ONE
te m p e ra tu re inside the d e live ry tru c k to see th a t it is
An im p o rta n t w eapon against pathogens is th e ob

servance o f s tr ic t tim e and te m p e ra tu re co n tro ls.
G enerally, th e disease-causing m icro orga nism s fo u n d in
fo o d s, w ith th e exce ptio n o f E. coli 0 1 57 :H 7, need to be
pre se n t in s ig n ific a n t q u a n titie s in o rd e r to make som e
one ill. Once pathogens have e sta b lish e d the m se lve s in
a fo o d source, th e y w ill e ith e r th riv e or be d e stro yed ,
depending upon how lo n g fo o d s are in th e danger zone.
There are pathogens th a t can live a t all te m p e ra tu re
ranges. For m o st o f tho se capable o f c a u s in g fo o d -b o rn e
illness, the frie n d lie s t e n viro n m e n t pro vid es te m p e ra
tu re s w ith in a range o f 41 to 1 3 5 F /5 to 57C the
danger zone. M o s t pathogens are e ith e r d e stro ye d or
w ill n o t rep rod uce a t te m p e ra tu re s above 135F /57C .
S to rin g fo o d a t te m p e ra tu re s below 41 F /5 C w ill slow
o r in te rru p t the cycle o f re p ro d u ctio n . (It should also be
co rre c t. Check th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e p ro d u ct as w e ll as
th e e x p ira tio n dates. V e rify th a t fo o d s have the req uire d
go ve rn m e n t in sp e ctio n and c e rtific a tio n stam ps or tags.
R andom ly sam ple ite m s and re je c t any goods th a t do
n o t m ee t you r stan dard s. M ove th e ite m s im m e d ia te ly
in to p ro p e r sto ra g e con ditions.
R e frig e ra tio n and fre e z e r u n its should be m ain
tain ed on a reg ular schedule and equipped w ith th e r
m o m e te rs to a sce rta in th a t th e te m p e ra tu re rem ains
w ith in a safe range. A lth o u g h in m o st cases c h illin g w ill
n o t a ctu a lly k ill pathogens, it does d ra s tic a lly slow down
re p ro d u ctio n . In general, re frig e ra to rs should be kept
betw een 36 and 4 0 F /2 and 4C, b u t q u a lity is b e tte r
m a intained i f c e rta in fo o d s can be sto re d a t the se spe
c ific te m p e ra tu re s:
M ea t and poultry: 32 to 3 6 F /0 to 2C
noted th a t in to x ic a tin g pathogens may be d e stro ye d

du rin g cooking, b u t any to x in s th e y have produced are
s till there.)
When co n d itio n s are favo ra ble, b a cte ria can re p ro
duce a t an a sto n ish in g rate. T here fore, c o n tro llin g the
tim e du rin g w hich fo o d s rem ain in th e danger zone is
Fish and shellfish: 30 to 3 4 F /-1 to 1C

Eggs: 38 to 4 0 F /3 to 4 C
Dairy products: 36 to 4 0 F /2 to 4C
Produce: 40 to 4 5 F /4 to 7C
c ritic a l to th e p re ve n tio n o f fo o d -b o rn e illness. Foods

le ft in the danger zone fo r a pe rio d longer than fo u r
hours are considered a d u lte ra te d . A d d itio n a lly , the
S ep ara te re frig e ra to rs f o r each o f the above c a t

egories are ideal, b u t if necessary, a single u n it can be
fo u r-h o u r pe rio d is cum ulative, m eaning th a t th e m e te r

continues running every tim e th e fo o d en te rs th e danger
zone. Once th e fo u r-h o u r pe rio d has been exceeded,
heating or coo lin g cannot reco ver foo ds.
receive and store foods safely
* /
It is not unheard o f fo r fo o d s to be d e live red to a fo o d -
70 F
'2 1 C
41 F
5 C
service o p e ra tio n already co n ta m in a te d . To pre ve n t

th is fro m happening to you, in sp e ct all goods to be sure
135 F
' 57 C
135 F
57 C
Danger zone icon
41 F
5 C
Time and tem perature icon
d ivide d in to sectio ns. The fr o n t o f th e u n it w ill be the
unless you use th e tw o -s ta g e coo lin g m ethod. In the
w a rm e st area, th e back th e co ld e st. B e fo re s to rin g fo o d
f ir s t stage o f th is m ethod, fo o d s m ust be cooled to
in th e re frig e ra to r, it should be p ro p e rly cooled, sto re d
7 0 F /2 1 C w ith in tw o hours. In the second stage, foo ds
in clean con tain ers, w rapped, and labeled cle a rly w ith
m ust reach 4 1 F /5 C o r below w ith in an a d d itio n a l fo u r
the co n te n ts and date. S to re raw p ro d u cts below and
hours, f o r a to ta l c o o lin g tim e o f six hours. A ccording
away fro m cooked fo o d s to pre ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n
to FDA guidelines, using th e tw o -s ta g e m ethod quickly
by d ripp ing . Use th e p rin c ip le o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" (FIFO)
moves th e fo o d th ro u g h th e p a rt o f th e danger zone
when arra ng ing fo o d , so th a t o ld e r ite m s are in th e fro n t.
w here b a cte ria gro w m o st rapidly.
Dry sto ra g e is used f o r fo o d s such as canned goods,
The p ro p e r w ay to cool h o t liquids is to place them
spices, con dim ents, cereals, and sta p le s such as flo u r
in a m e ta l c o n ta in e r in an ice w a te r bath th a t reaches
and sugar, as w e ll as f o r som e fr u its and veg etab le s th a t
th e same level as th e liquid inside th e container. S tir the
do n o t re q u ire re frig e ra tio n and have low p e ris h a b ility .
liq u id in th e c o n ta in e r fre q u e n tly so th a t th e w arm er
As w ith all storag e, th e area m ust be clean, w ith p ro pe r
liq u id a t th e c e n te r m ixes w ith the coo le r liquid a t the
v e n tila tio n and a ir circ u la tio n . Cleaning supplies should
o u te r edges o f th e con tain er, bring ing down the overall
be sto re d in a sep ara te place.
te m p e ra tu re m ore rapidly.
S em isolid and solid fo o d s should be re frig e ra te d in
hold cooked or ready-to-serve

foods safely
fa ce exposure to th e cold air. For th e same reason, large
Keep h o t fo o d s h o t and cold fo o d s cold. Use h o t-h o ld in g
cuts o f m eat o r o th e r fo o d s should be cu t in to sm aller
e q uipm en t (steam ta b le s, double bo ile rs, bain-m aries,
p o rtio n s , cooled to room te m p e ra tu re , and w rapped be
heated cab in ets or draw ers, ch a fin g dishes, etc.) to keep
fo re re frig e ra tin g .
a single layer in shallow con tain ers to allow g re a te r su r
fo o d s a t or above 13 5 F /5 7 C . Do n o t use h o t-h o ld in g

eq uipm en t fo r coo kin g or reh ea ting. Use co ld -h o ld in g
reheat foods safely
e q uipm en t (ice o r re frig e ra tio n ) to keep cold fo o d s a t or
When fo o d s are pre pa red ahead and then reheated, they
below a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 1 F /5 C .
should move th ro u g h th e danger zone as ra p id ly as pos

sib le and be re h ea te d to a t le a st 1 6 5 F /7 4 C fo r a m in i
cool foods safely
mum o f fifte e n seconds. As long as all p ro p e r cooling
One o f th e leading causes o f fo o d -b o rn e illness is
and re h e a tin g pro ced ures are fo llo w e d each tim e, fo o d s
im p ro p e rly cooled fo o d . Cooked fo o d s th a t are to be
may be cooled and re h ea te d m ore than once.
sto re d need to be cooled to below 41 F /5 C as qu ickly

as possible. This should be co m p le te d w ith in fo u r hours,
Food should be b ro u g h t to th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re
over d ire c t heat (burner, fla tto p , g rill, or conventional
SAFE HANDLING OF EGGS

Todays consumer is well aware of the po
at a temperature o f at least 14oF/6oC for
tential for food-borne illness through eggs.
a minimum of^Vi minutes. The bacteria
Therefore, we will look at basic rules for safe
are also killed instantly at i6oF/yiC.
handling of eggs and foods containing eggs.

All eggs in the shell should be free from
cracks, leaks, and obvious holes.
Fried eggs or poached eggs with runny

yolks should be prepared only at customer
request.
Raw egg yolks are a potentially hazardous
Any food containing eggs must be kept at
food, due to the possible presence o f Sal
safe temperatures throughout handling,
monella enteritidis bacteria. Salmonella
cooking, and storage. Cooling and reheat
bacteria are killed when the eggs are held
ing must be done quickly.
c h a p te r 4 FOOD A N D KIT CHEN S A F E T Y
oven) or in a microwave oven. Do not use hot-holding
1 ASSESS THE HAZARDS. The firs t step in a HACCP
equipment for cooking or reheating. A steam table will
program begins with a hazard analysis of the menu
adequately hold reheated foods above 1 3 5F /57C , but
item or recipe. The process must be looked at by
it will not bring foods out of the danger zone quickly
designing a flow chart th a t covers every step in the
enough. Instant-read therm om eters should always be
period from "dock to dish."
used to check tem peratures.
2. ID E N T IFY T H E CRITICAL CONTROL POINTS.The

next decision to make, a fte r you have established
thaw frozen foods safely
a flow diagram and identified potential hazards,
Frozen foods may be thawed safely in several ways.
is to identify the critical control points (CCPs). A
Never thaw food at room tem perature. The best (though
critical control point is the place in the utilization
slowest) method is to allow the food to thaw under re
of the food at which you have the ability to prevent,
frigeration. The food should still be wrapped and should
eliminate, or reduce an existing hazard or to pre
be placed in a shallow container on a bottom shelf to
vent or minimize the likelihood th a t a hazard will
prevent possible cross contamination.
occur. To quote the 1 9 9 9 FDA Food Code, a critical
If there is not tim e to thaw foods in the refrigerator,
control point is "a point or procedure in a specific
covered or wrapped food may be placed in a container
food system where loss of control may result in an
under running w ater of approxim ately 7 0 F /2 1 C or
unacceptable health risk." One of the most difficu lt
below. Use a stream of w ater strong enough to circulate
aspects of putting to gether a HACCP program is not
the w ater around the food.
to overidentify these critical control points.
Individual portions th at are to be cooked immedi

ately may be thawed in a microwave oven. Liquids, small
ESTABLISH CRITICAL LIM ITS AND CONTROL
items, and individual portions may even be cooked w ith
MEASURES. Critical limits are generally standards
out thawing, but larger pieces th a t are cooked while still
fo r each critical control point; control measures
frozen become overcooked on the outside before they
are what you can do ahead of tim e to fac ilitate the
are thoroughly done throughout.
achievement of your critical limit. Many limits have

already been established by local health depart
H A Z A R D A N A L Y S I S C R I T I C A L CON T RO L
ments. For example, an established critical limit
PO I N TS ( HACCP)
fo r the cooking step in preparing chicken is a final
HACCP stands for Hazard Analysis Critical Control

Points, which is a scientific s ta te -o f-th e -a rt food safety
program originally developed fo r astronauts. HACCP
takes a systematic approach to the conditions th at are
responsible fo r most food-borne illnesses. It is preven
tive in nature, anticipating how food safety problems
are most likely to occur and taking steps to prevent
internal tem perature of 1 6 5 F /7 4 C . If you were to

hold this chicken on the line before actual service, it
would have to be kept at 1 4 0 F /6 0 C to prevent the
growth of pathogenic organisms. Holding would be
another critical step in this process.
4. ESTABLISH PROCEDURES FOR MONITORING

CCPs. Critical limits fo r each CCP have to be estab
them from occurring. The types of hazards of concern
lished to identify what is to be monitored. You must
are biological, chemical, and physical. Biological hazards
also establish how the CCP wilt be monitored and
are typically microbiological, which include bacteria,
who will do it. Monitoring helps improve the system
viruses, and parasites. Chemical hazards can be found in
by forcing identification of problems or faults at
the sanitation products used in the kitchen and physical
particular points in the process. This allows fo r more
hazards include glass, wood, stones, or other foreign
control or improvement in the system.
objects.
The HACCP system has been adopted by both food
processors and restaurants, as well as by the FDA and
USDA. At this time, there are no particular mandates
th at all foodservice establishments must use HACCP.
However, instituting such a plan may prove advanta
geous on many levels. The heart of HACCP is contained
in the following seven principles:
5. ESTABLISH CORRECTIVE ACTION PLANS. A plan of

action must be identified to deal with a deviation or
substandard level th at occurs fo r a step in the pro
cess. Specific corrective actions must be developed
fo r each CCP, because each food item and its prepa
ration can vary greatly from one kitchen to the next.
6. SET UP A RECORD-KEEPING SYSTEM. Keep docu

mentation on hand to demonstrate whether the sys
to u ch th e p a rts o f fla tw a re th a t come in c o n ta c t w ith

fo o d , and handle glassw a re by th e stem s or bases only.
tem is working. Recording events at CCPs ensures that
C arry plates, glasses, and fla tw a re in such a way th a t
critical limits are met and preventive monitoring is
fo o d c o n ta c t surface s are n o t touched. Serve all fo o d s
occurring. Documentation typically consists of tim e /
using th e p ro p e r utensils.
temperature logs, checklists, and sanitation forms.
7. DEVELOP A VERIFICATION SYSTEM. This step es
CLEANING AND SA NITIZING
tablishes procedures to ensure th at the HACCP plan
Cleaning re fe rs to th e rem oval o f soil or fo o d p a r
is working correctly. If procedures are not being
tic le s , whereas san itizin g involves using m o ist heat or
followed, make the necessary modifications to the
chem ical agents to k ill pa thog en ic m icroorganism s. For
system so th at they are.
e q u ip m e n t th a t can no t be im m ersed in a sink, o r fo r

e q u ip m e n t such as knives and c u ttin g boards em ployed
SE R VI N G FOODS SA F EL Y
The p o te n tia l to tra n s m it fo o d -b o rn e illne ss does not
end when th e fo o d leaves th e kitche n. R e sta ura nt s e rv
ers should also be in s tru c te d in good hygiene and safe
fo o d -h a n d lin g pra ctices. Hands should be p ro p e rly
w ashed a fte r using th e re stro o m , eating, sm oking,
to u ch in g one's face o r hair, and handling m oney, d irty
du rin g fo o d p re p a ra tio n , use a w ip in g c lo th soaked in a

d o u b le -s tre n g th sa n itiz in g s o lu tio n to clean and san itize
betw een uses. Iodine, chlorine, or qu a te rn a ry ammonium
com pounds are all com m on s a n itizin g agents.
Sm all eq uipm en t, to o ls , pots, and ta b le w a re should
be run th ro u g h a w a re-w a shing m achine o r washed
m anually in a th re e -c o m p a rtm e n t sink. A fte r sanitizing,
e q u ip m e n t and ta b le w a re should be allow ed to a ir-d ry
dishes, or soiled ta b le linens. W hen s e ttin g tab les, never
FOOD ALLERGIES
The way your body reacts when you eat a
major food allergens must identify them
food to which you are truly allergic can be
on the label, so you must be certain that
dramatic or even dangerous. An allergic
you have read the label on prepared foods
reaction to a food may also occur rapidly.
thoroughly.
The skin may become itchy and develop
It is also important to realize that de
hives or welts. Some people experience
pending on an individuals sensitivity, even
swelling of their throats or tongues. Severe
the very small amount of allergen left on
reactions require immediate medical
a piece of equipment and transferred to a
attention.
food could be enough to set off a reaction.
A true food allergy is nothing to fool

around with. As a chef, you cant assume
that a request for no garlic indicates an
unevolved palate or an unreasonable food
dislike. For the individual suffering from a
Some of the most common food aller

gies are to the following:
Peanuts
Tree nuts
food allergy, even the merest hint of garlic
Milk
in his or her soup can set off a reaction.
Eggs
People who suffer from an allergy

will ask about the menu in regard to the
food(s) that they cannot eat. It is impor
Wheat
Soy
tant that you and your staff know the
Fish
ingredients used in a dish. As of January
Shellfish
2006 all packaged foods that contain
c h a p te r 4 FOOD A N D K IT CHEN S A F E T Y
co m p le te ly, because using paper or c lo th to w e lin g could
to p re ve n t a p e st in fe s ta tio n . Take th e necessary steps
re s u lt in cross co n ta m in a tio n .
to p ro h ib it th e p o te n tia l ha rb o rin g o f various pathogens
C a reful s a n ita tio n procedures, p ro p e r handling o f
caused by pests.
foo ds, and a w e ll-m a in ta in e d fa c ility all w o rk to g e th e r
kitchen safety
In a d d itio n to th e p re ca u tio n s necessary to guard
and you r s t a f f f o r guidance. In s tru c t your kitche n s t a f f
a g ainst fo o d -b o rn e illness, care m ust also be take n to
in the c o rre c t w ay to handle a g rill fire and grease fire .
avoid accid e n ts to s t a f f and guests. The fo llo w in g
(Above all, make sure everyone knows never to t r y to p u t
s a fe ty m easures should be p ra cticed .
o u t a grease, chem ical, o r e le c tric a l fire by th ro w in g w a

te r on th e flam es.) Everyone should know where th e fire
HEALTH AND HY GI E N E
M a intain good general health w ith reg ular checkups. Do
n o t handle fo o d when ill. Keep any burn or break in the
skin covered w ith a clean, w a te rp ro o f bandage. Cover
d e p a rtm e n t num ber is posted.
DRESS I NG FOR S A F E T Y
The various p a rts o f the ty p ic a l c h e fs u n ifo rm play im
your face w ith a tissu e when coughing or sneezing and
p o rta n t roles in keeping w o rke rs safe as the y operate in
wash hands a fte rw a rd .
a p o te n tia lly dangerous en viro nm en t. The ch e fs ja cket,
Keep hair clean and neat, and con tain it if necessary.

Keep fin g e rn a ils s h o rt and w e ll m aintained, w ith no p o l
fo r instance, is d o ub le-b rea ste d to crea te a tw o -la ye r

clo th b a rrie r over th e che st to p ro te c t a gainst steam
ish. Keep hands away fro m hair and face when w o rkin g
burns, splashes, and spills. (The design also allow s the
w ith foo d.
ja c k e t to be re b u tto n e d on the o p p o site side to cover

any spills.) The sleeves o f the ja c k e t are long to cover as
FIRE S A F E T Y
It takes only a fe w seconds fo r a sim ple fla re -u p to turn
in to a fu ll-scale fire . Grease fire s, e le ctrica l fire s, or even
a w aste container fu ll o f paper catching fire when a match
is carelessly tossed in to it are easy to imagine in any busy
kitchen. A com prehensive fire sa fe ty plan should be in
place and a standard p a rt o f all employee training.
The f ir s t ste p to ta ke to avoid fire s is to make sure
th a t the e n tire s t a f f is fu lly aware o f p o te n tia l fir e dan
gers. Be sure th a t all e q u ip m e n t is up to code. Frayed or
exposed w ire s and fa u lty plugs can all to o ea sily be the
cause o f a fire . O verburdened o u tle ts are a n o th e r com
mon c u lp rit.
Have fir e e xtin g u ish e rs in easily accessible areas.
P rop er m aintenance o f e xtin g u ish e rs and tim e ly inspec
tio n s by your local fir e d e p a rtm e n t are v ita l. The exits
fro m all areas o f the bu ild in g should be easy to fin d ,
clear o f any o b s tru c tio n s , and fu lly op e ra tio n a l.
Thorough tra in in g is esse ntia l. Everyone should
know w h a t to do in case o f a fire . Your g u ests re ly on you
much o f the arm as possible. Pants should be worn w ith

o u t cu ffs, which can tra p h o t liquids and debris.
Be it a ta ll w h ite to q u e or a fa v o rite baseball cap,
chefs w ear hats to con tain th e ir hair and pre ven t it fro m
fa llin g in to th e fo o d . H ats also help absorb sw e at fro m
ove rhe ated brow s. N e ckerch iefs serve a s im ila r sw eata b so rb in g role.
The apron is worn only to p ro te c t th e ja c k e t and
pants fro m excessive staining. Side to w e ls are used to
p ro te c t th e ir hands when w o rk in g w ith h o t pans, dishes,
or o th e r eq uipm en t. Side to w e ls used to l i f t hot item s
m ust be d ry in o rd e r to pro vid e p ro te c tio n .
Hard le a th e r shoes w ith s lip -re s is ta n t soles are re c
om m ended because o f th e p ro te c tio n th e y o ffe r and the
s u p p o rt th e y give fe e t.
Jackets, pants, aprons, side tow e ls, and shoes can
h a rbo r b a cte ria , m olds, and p a rasite s. Use hot w ater, a
good d e te rg e n t, and a san itize r, such as borax or chlo
rine bleach, to rem ove grim e.
regulations, inspection, and certification

Federal, s ta te , and local go ve rn m e n t re g u la tio n s w o rk
en viro n m e n t. A m ong OSHA's re g u la tio n s is th e m andate
to ensure th e w holesom eness o f th e fo o d th a t reaches
th a t all places o f e m p lo ym e n t m ust have an adequate
the public. Any new fo o d s e rv ic e business should c o n ta c t
and ea sily accessible firs t-a id k it on th e prem ises. In
the local he alth d e p a rtm e n t w ell in advance o f opening
a d d itio n , i f any o rg a n iza tio n has m ore than ten em ploy
to a sce rta in necessary legal re q u ire m e n ts. Some s ta te s
ees, re co rd s m ust be ke p t o f all accide nts and in juries
and local ju ris d ic tio n s o ffe r s a n ita tio n c e rtific a tio n
to em ployees th a t re q u ire m edical tre a tm e n t. OSHA
program s. R e gu latio ns and te s tin g v a ry fro m area to
co n ce n tra te s its e ffo r ts on p ro v id in g services where the
area. C e rtific a tio n is o fte n available th ro u g h c e rta in
ris k to w o rk e r s a fe ty is g re a te s t.
academ ic in s titu tio n s .
AMERICANS WITH D ISABILITIES ACT (ADA)

THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH
ADM IN ISTR ATION (OSHA)
This a ct is in te n d e d to make pu blic places accessible
OSHA is a fe d e ra l o rg a n iza tio n , in s titu te d in 1970,
c o n s tru c tio n o r re m o d e lin g done to a re s ta u ra n t m ust
th a t fa lls under th e p u rvie w o f th e H e alth and Human
m e e t ADA stan dard s. This includes lo c a tin g telephones
and safe f o r th o se w ith a v a rie ty o f d is a b ilitie s . Any new
S ervices A d m in is tra tio n . Its re g u la tio n s help em ployers
so th a t a person in a w h ee lcha ir can reach the m and p ro
and w o rke rs e sta b lish and m a intain a safe, h e a lth y w o rk
v id in g to ile ts w ith handrails.
drugs and alcohol in the workplace

One fin a l to p ic th a t is o f g re a t im p o rta n ce in th e w o rk
are slowed, in h ib itio n s are low ered, and ju d g m e n t is
place is th e rig h t o f all w o rke rs to be fre e fro m the
im p aire d. The re s p o n s ib ilitie s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l w o rking
hazards posed by a co w o rke r w ho com es to w o rk under
in any kitch e n are to o g re a t to allow som eone s u ffe rin g
the in flue nce o f drugs o r alcohol. The abuse o f any sub
fro m a substance abuse pro blem to dim inish the resp ect
stance is a serious concern because it can a lte r or im p air
and tr u s t you have b u ilt w ith you r custo m e rs and s ta ff.
one's a b ility to p e rfo rm his o r her jo b . R eaction tim e s
ch a p te r 4 FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
tools
the pr<
V J
id ingredients in
essional kitchen
PART 2
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equipment
identification
Tools, large and small, make it possible fo r chefs to do their jobs well;
in fact, using the right tool for the job is one of the hallmarks of a
professional. Equally important is the ability to handle and care for each
tool, whether it is a cutting board, a knife, a mandoline, or a stockpot.
knives
A ssem b lin g a personal co lle c tio n o f knives is one o f
5. Use an appropriate cutting surface. Cutting directly
the f ir s t ste p s in becom ing a p ro fe ssio n a l. Just as an
on metal, glass, or marble surfaces will dull and even
a r tis t or c ra fts p e rs o n g a th e rs to g e th e r th e to o ls neces
tually damage the blade of a knife. To prevent dulling,
sary fo r pa in ting, scu lp tin g , o r draw ing, you w ill need to
always use wooden or composition cutting boards.
se le ct knives th a t allow you to do your w o rk in th e s a f

e st and m o st e ffic ie n t way. The knives you choose w ill
becom e as im p o rta n t to you as you r own fin g e rs qu ite
lite ra lly an exte nsio n o f your own hands.
1. Handle knives with respect. Knives can be damaged if
6. Keep knives properly stored. There are a number of

safe, practical ways to store knives, including in knife
kits or rolls, slots, or racks, and on magnetized hold
ers. Storage systems should be kept just as clean as
knives.
they are handled carelessly. Even though good-quality

knives are manufactured to last a lifetim e, they are
still prone to damage if not properly taken care of.
2. Keep knives sharp. Learn the proper techniques for
both sharpening and honing knives. A sharp knife not
THE P A R T S O F A KNIFE
To se le c t a k n ife o f good q u a lity th a t f it s your hand w e ll
and is su ita b le f o r th e in te nd ed task, you need a basic
know ledge o f th e variou s p a rts o f a knife.
only performs better, but is safer to use because less

effo rt is required to cut through the food. There are
blades
many ways to sharpen knives. Use a stone periodi
C u rrently, th e m o s t fre q u e n tly used m a te ria l f o r blades
cally, a sharpening machine, or send them to a profes
is high-carbon sta in le ss stee l. O th er m a te ria ls, such as
sional cutlery sharpener.
sta in le ss ste e l and carbon stee l, are also available.
3. Keep knives clean. Clean knives thoroughly immedi

ately a fte r using them. Sanitize the entire knife, in
cluding the handle, bolster, and blade, as necessary, so
that the tool will not cross contaminate food. Do not
clean knives in a dishwasher.
A ltho ug h carb o n -ste e l blades ta ke a b e tte r edge

than e ith e r reg ular o r high-carbon sta in le ss steel, they
ten d to lose th e ir sharpness quickly. Also, ca rb o n -ste e l
blades w ill d is c o lo r when th e y come in to c o n ta c t w ith
acidic foo ds. The m e ta l is b r ittle and can break easily
under stress.
4. Use safe handling procedures for knives. There are
Stain le ss ste e l is much s tro n g e r than carbon stee l
standards of behavior that should be remembered
and w ill n o t d is c o lo r o r rust. It is d iff ic u lt to g e t a good
when using knives. When you are passing a knife, lay it
edge on a s ta in le s s -s te e l blade, although once an edge
down on a work surface so that the handle is extended
is e sta blished , it te n d s to la s t longer than th e edge on a
toward the person who will pick it up. Whenever you
c a rb o n -ste e l blade.
must carry a knife from one area of the kitchen to
H igh-carbon stain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly rece nt
another, hold the knife straight down at your side with
d e velopm e nt th a t com bines the advantages o f carbon
the sharp edge facing behind you, and let people know
s te e l and sta in le ss stee l. The higher percentage o f c a r
you are passing by with something sharp. When you
bon allow s the blade to ta ke and keep a keener edge.
lay a knife down on a work surface, be sure that no

part of it extends over the edge of the cutting board
The m o st de sira ble ty p e o f blade fo r general use is

ta p e r-g ro u n d , m eaning th a t th e blade has been fo rg e d
or worktable. Also, do not cover the knife with food,
o u t o f a single she et o f m e ta l and has been ground so
towels, equipment, and the like. Be sure the blade is
th a t it ta p e rs sm o o th ly fro m th e spine to th e c u ttin g
facing away from the edge of the work surface. Do not
edge, w ith no a p p a re n t beveling.
attem pt to catch a falling knife.
H o llo w -g ro un d blades are m ade by com b in ing tw o

sheets o f m etal. The edges are then beveled or flu te d .
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
knives
tangs
TIP
The ta n g is a c o n tin u a tio n o f the blade th a t exte nds in to

th e knife 's handle. Knives used f o r heavy w ork, such as
c h e fs knives o r cleavers, should have a fu ll tang; th a t is,
th e ta n g is a lm o s t as long as th e e n tire handle. A ltho ug h
blades w ith p a rtia l tan gs are n o t as durable, th e y are
acce ptab le on knives th a t w ill be used less fre q u e n tly .
R a t-ta il tan gs are much n a rrow e r than th e spine o f the
blade and are encased in th e handle.
handles
CUTTING
EDGE
A p re fe rre d m a te ria l f o r k n ife handles is rosew ood,

because it is e x tre m e ly hard and has a very t ig h t or
SPINE
fin e grain, w hich helps p re ve n t s p littin g and cracking.

Im p re g n a tin g wood w ith p la s tic p ro te c ts th e handle
fro m damage caused by con tinu ed exposure to w a te r
and d e te rg e n ts. The handle should f i t y ou r hand com
fo rta b ly . A c o m fo rta b le f i t w ill reduce fa tig u e .
HEEL
rivets
BO LSTER
M e ta l riv e ts are usually used to secure th e ta n g to the

handle. The riv e ts should be co m p le te ly sm oo th and lie
flu sh w ith th e surface o f th e handle.
HANDLE
bolsters
RIVETS
In some knives, th e re is a c o lla r o r shank, known as a

b o lste r, a t th e p o in t w here th e blade m ee ts th e handle.
This is a sign o f a w e ll-m a d e kn ife . The b o ls te r helps to
balance th e k n ife and p ro te c t th e hand fro m accide ntal
slips. Some knives m ay have a c o lla r th a t looks like a
b o ls te r b u t is a ctu a lly a sep ara te piece a tta ch e d to
th e handle. These knives te n d to com e a p a rt easily and
PARTS OF A KNIFE
should be avoided.
c h a p t e r s E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
45
types of knives A wide array of knives is
knife, boning knife, paring knife, and sheerbut also a
available to suit specific functions. As you continue to
number of special knives. This list is intended as a guide
work in professional kitchens, your knife kit will grow
to the knives that may be found in nearly any well-
to encompass not only the basicschefs or French
outfitted knife kit.
SCIMITAR
SERRATED
SUCERS
(painted and
round tipped)
C LEA V ER
U TILITY KNIVES
F LE X IB LE SLICER
BONING KNIFE
FRENCH KNIVES
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
FLU TED -EDG E

SAN TO KU
PARING
KNIFE
TOURNE
KNIFE
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
chefs knife/
French knife
Blade 8 - 1 2 inches long
A ll-p u rp o s e kn ife : a v a rie ty o f chop

ping, slicing, and m incing chores
utility knife
Sm aller, lig h te r c h e fs k n ife w ith a blade
V arious c u ttin g chores
knives
Common Kitchen Knives
5 - 8 inches long
paring knife
Blade 2 - 4 inches long
P aring and trim m in g ve g e ta b le s and

fr u its
boning knife
Blade is th in n e r than th a t o f c h e fs kn ife ,

ab ou t 6 inches long, and rig id
S e p a ra tin g raw m ea t fro m bone
filleting knife
S im ila r in shape and size to a boning

kn ife , b u t th in n e r and w ith a m ore f le x
ible blade
F ille tin g fis h
slicer
Long blade w ith a round o r p o in te d tip ;

blade may be fle x ib le or rig id , ta p e re d or
round, o r have a flu te d edge
S lic in g cooked m eat; also s u ita b le fo r

s lic in g fo o d such as sm oked salm on
cleaver
Heavy enough to cu t th ro u g h bones;

re c ta n g u la r blade; va rie s in size a c c o rd
C hopping
ing to its in te n d e d use
tourne knife
S im ila r to a pa rin g kn ife ; has curved

blade to fa c ilita te c u ttin g curved s u r
fa ce s o f to u rn e e d ve g e ta b le s
T ourneeing veg etab le s
ch a p te r 5 E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
47
S H A R P E N I N G AND HONI NG
1. Assem ble your m iseen place.
The key to th e p ro p e r and e ffic ie n t use o f any k n ife is
2. Anchor th e stone to keep it fro m slipping as you work.
m aking sure th a t it is sharp. A k n ife w ith a sharp blade
Place carborundum or diam ond stones on a damp
always w o rks b e tte r and m ore s a fe ly because it cuts
clo th or rubber mat. A trip le -fa c e d stone is m ounted
easily. K nife blades are given an edge on a sharpening
on a ro ta tin g fram ew ork th a t can be locked in to posi
ston e and m aintained betw een sharpenings by honing
tio n so th a t it cannot move.
the m w ith a steel.

S harpening ston es are e sse ntia l to the p ro p e r m ain
3. Lubricate th e stone w ith m ineral oil or water. Be con

s is te n t about th e typ e o f lu brica nt you use on your
tenance o f knives. Sharpen th e blade by passing its edge
stone. W ater or m ineral oil helps reduce fric tio n as
over th e ston e a t a 2 0 -d e g re e angle. The g r it th e de
you sharpen your knife. The heat caused by fric tio n
gree o f coarseness or fine ne ss o f the stone's su rfa c e
may not seem sig n ifica n t, b u t it can eventually harm
abrades th e blade's edge, c re a tin g a sharp c u ttin g edge.
th e blade.
When sharpening a kn ife , always begin by using the

coa rsest surface o f the stone, and then move on to the
fin e r surfaces.
require. The du lle r th e blade, th e coarser th e g rit
A ston e w ith a fin e g r it should be used fo r boning

knives and o th e r to o ls on w hich an e sp e cia lly sharp
edge is req uire d. M o s t ston es may be used e ith e r dry or
should be.
5
Run th e e n tire edge over the surface o f the stone,

keeping th e pressure even on th e knife. Hold the knife
m oiste ne d w ith w a te r or m ineral oil.
a t th e co rre c t angle as you w ork. A 20-degree angle
C arborundum stones have a fin e side and a m edium
is suitable fo r c h e fs knives and knives w ith sim ilar
side. Arkan sas ston es are available in several grades
blades. You may need to adjust th e angle by a fe w
o f fine ne ss. Some co n sist o f th re e ston es o f varying
degrees to p ro p e rly sharpen th in n e r blades such as
degrees o f fine ne ss m ounted on a wheel. Dia m ond-
slicers, o r th ic k e r blades such as cleavers.
im p re g n a te d stones are also available. A lth o u g h the y

are expensive, som e chefs p re fe r the m because the y
Begin sharpening the edge on th e coarsest g r it you
fe e l the se stones give a sha rpe r edge.
Alw ays sharpen th e blade in th e same directio n. This

ensures th a t th e edge rem ains even and in proper
O pinion is s p lit ab ou t w h e th e r a k n ife blade should
alignm ent.
be run over a ston e fro m heel to tip or tip to heel. M o st

chefs do agree th a t con sisten cy in the d ire c tio n o f
th e stro k e used to pass th e blade over th e ston e is
on coarse stones. A fte r about te n strokes on each
im p o rta n t.
side o f th e blade, move on to the next fin e r g rit.
B e fo re using a stone, be sure th a t it is p ro p e rly s ta

bilized. No m a tte r which m ethod you use, keep th e f o l
low ing g uidelines in mind:
Make strokes o f equal num ber and equal pressure on

each side o f th e blade. Do not oversharpen th e edge
Finish sharpening on th e fin e s t stone then wash and

dry th e k n ife th o ro u g h ly b e fore using or sto rin g it.
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
knives
Sharpening method one
1.
Use fo u r fin g e rs o f th e g u id ing hand to m aintain
co n sta n t pressure on th e knife .
2.
3.
Draw th e k n ife o f f th e sto n e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.
Draw th e k n ife across th e ston e gently.
Sharpening method two
1 .
Push th e blade over th e stone's surface, using the
g u id ing hand to keep pre ssure even.
2.
3.
Push th e k n ife o f f th e ston e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.
C ontinue to push th e e n tire le ng th o f th e blade over
th e stone.
49
steels a steel should be used both immediately after
Steels come with coarse, medium, and fine grains,
sharpening the blade with a stone and also between
and some are magnetic, which helps the blade maintain
sharpenings to keep the edge in alignment. The length
proper alignment and also collects metal shavings. A
of the steels working surface can range from three inches
guard or hilt between the steel and the handle protects
for a pocket version to over fourteen inches. Hard steel
the user, and a ring on the bottom of the handle can be
is the traditional material for steels. Other materials,
used to hang the steel.
such as glass, ceramic, and diamond impregnated sur
When using a steel, hold the knife almost vertically,

with the blade at a 20-degree angle, resting on the inner
faces, are also available.
side of the steel. Draw the blade along the entire length
of the steel.
MULTISIDED OIL STONE (TRI-STONE)
DIAM OND-IM PREGNATED STONE
CER AM IC STONE
FLAT STEEL
HARD STEEL
DIAMONDIM PREGNATED
STEEL
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
CER A M IC STEELS
(BLU E AND WHITE)
GA
r+
(D
Keep the following guidelines in mind:
this could produce a curve in the edge. Keep the knife
Allow yourself plenty of room as you work, and stand
blade a t a 20 -d e g ree angle to the steel.
with your weight evenly distributed. Hold the steel with
Use a light touch, stroking evenly and consistently.
your thumb and fingers safely behind the guard.
Lay the blade against the steel; dont slap it. Listen for
a light ringing sound; a heavy grinding sound indicates
Draw the blade along the steel so th a t the entire edge
th a t too much pressure is being applied.
touches the steel. W ork in the same direction on each

side of the blade to keep the edge straight.
Repeat the stroke on the opposite side of the edge

to properly straighten the edge. If a blade requires
Be sure to keep the pressure even to avoid wearing
more than five strokes per side on a steel, it probably
away the m etal in the center of the edge. Over tim e,
should be sharpened on a stone.
Steeling method one
1.
S tart w ith the knife nearly vertical, with the blade
resting on the steel's inner side.
J .
Keep the blade in contact with the steel until the tip
is drawn o ff the steel. Repeat the process with the blade

resting on the steels outer side.
2.
Rotate the w rist holding the knife as the blade
moves along the steel in a downward motion.
Steeling method two
1.
Hold the steel in a near-vertical position with the
3.
Finish the firs t pass by drawing the blade all the way
tip resting on a nonslippery surface. S ta rt with the heel
along the shaft up to and including the tip. Repeat the
of the knife against one side of the steel.
entire action, this tim e with the blade against the steels
other side.
2.
Maintain light pressure and use an arm action, not a
w rist action, to draw the knife down the shaft of the steel
in a smooth continuous motion.
ch a p te r 5 E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
51
hand tools
The object of using a specialized tool
is to make the task at hand easier and more efficient. A
numerous to mention here. Particular preparations will

dictate to the chef what hand tools are necessary and
number of small hand tools other than knives belong
individual chefs will have their own particular likes and
in a knife kit. The potential number and kind are too
dislikes.
WIDE PERFORATED
O FFSET S PATU LA
FISH S PATU LA
FRENCH ROLLING PINS
S W IVEL-BLAD ED
PEE LER S
S AU CE W HISK
O FFSET PA LETTE KN IVES
B A LL-BE A R IN G
ROLLING PIN
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
t r
p
Common Hand Tools
p
Q -
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
rotary peeler/
swivel-bladed peeler
Blade m ay be m ou nted h o riz o n ta lly or

v e rtic a lly on th e handle. Blade is t y p i
cally 2 - 3 inches long
P eeling skin fro m ve g e ta b le s and
fru its . S w ivel a ctio n accom m odates

c o n to u rs o f in g re d ie n ts
in
parisienne scoop/
melon bailer
May have one scoop or tw o o f d iffe re n t

sizes, between A and 3A inch in d iam e te r
S coo ping o u t balls o r ovals fro m veg

e ta b le s and fr u its
kitchen fork
A fo rk w ith tw o long tin e s a p p ro xim a te ly

4 - 6 inches long
T esting doneness o f braised m eats

and veg etab le s; liftin g fin is h e d item s
to th e ca rvin g board o r plate; holding
an ite m being carved in place
palette knife/
metal spatula
F le xib le ro u n d -tip p e d to o l; may be f la t

o r o ffs e t. Blade is be tw ee n 4 and 5
inches long and V i- V i inch w ide
r+
In th e kitc h e n and bakeshop,

sp re a d in g fillin g s and glazes; placing
garnishes; p o rtio n in g ; and a v a rie ty o f
o th e r fu n c tio n s
whisks
Balloon w h isks are sphere shaped and

have th in w ire s to in c o rp o ra te a ir when
m aking foa m s. Sauce w h isks are n a r
ro w e r and fre q u e n tly have th ic k e r w ires
Beating, blending, and w h ipp in g
offset spatula
Blade is chisel edged, be tw ee n 9 and 10
Turning or lift in g fo o d s on g rills,

b ro ile rs , and g rid d le s
inches long and 3 - 4 inches w ide, s e t in a

s h o rt handle
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF ROLLING PINS

Rolling pins are made from hard, tight-
The two basic types of rolling pins are
grained woods, which prevent fats and
the French-style pin and the rod-and-bear-
flavorings used in rolled doughs from pen
ing (ball-bearing) pin. The French pin is a
etrating the pin. Rolling pins should never be
long cylinder of wood rolled over the dough
washed with water. Doing this could ruin the
with the palms of the hands. The second
integrity of the pin by warping or distorting
type is heavier and wider. It has a length

wise shaft at the center of the wooden cyl
the grain of the wood. Always use a dry cloth

to wipe the pin clean immediately after use.
inder through which runs a metal rod with
Damage to the surface of the pin will relay
two wooden handles at either end.
imperfections to the dough being rolled.
c h a p te r 5 E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
53
measuring equipment
Among the most common and useful measuring
Measurements
are determined in many different ways in a professional
equipment are the following: measuring pitchers (to
kitchen. This makes it important to have equipment for
measure liquid volumes); spring, balance beam, and
liquid and dry volume measures calibrated for both the
electronic scales (to weigh ingredients for preparation
U.S. and metric systems, as well as a variety of scales for
and finished items for portion control); instant-read,
accurate measurement by weight.
candy, and deep-fat thermometers (to measure internal

temperatures); and measuring spoons.
SPRING SCA LE
B A LA N C E B EA M SC A LE
ELECTRONIC
SCA LE
M EASUR ING PITCHERS
M EASUR IN G SPO O NS
C A N D Y/D EEP-FA T
TH ER M O M ETER
INSTANT-READ T H ER M O M ET ER S
PRO BE
TH ER M O M ETER
54
Sieves and strainers
pureeing food. The openings in the cone can vary in size

from very large to very small. The colander, available in
ties from dry ingredients. They are also used to drain or
a variety of sizes, is a stainless-steel or aluminum sieve,
puree cooked or raw foods. The delicate mesh of some
with or without a base, used to strain or drain foods. The
strainers is highly vulnerable to damage; never drop these
ricer is a device with a pierced hopper in which cooked
into a pot sink, where they could be crushed or torn.

The food mill is a type of strainer used to puree soft
food, often potatoes, is placed. A plate on the end of a

lever pushes the food through the holes in the hopper.
foods. A flat, curving blade is rotated over a disk by a
Cheesecloth is light, fine-mesh cotton gauze, frequently
hand-operated crank. Most professional models have
used with or in place of a fine conical sieve. It is essen
interchangeable disks with holes of varying fineness. The
tial for straining some sauces. It is also used for making
drum sieve ( tamis) consists of a tinned-steel, nylon, or
sachets. Before use, cheesecloth should be rinsed thor
stainless-steel screen stretched in an aluminum or wood
oughly in hot water and then cold water to remove any
frame. A drum sieve is used for sifting or pureeing. The
loose fibers. Cheesecloth also clings better to the sides of
conical sieve ( chinois) is used for straining and/or
bowls, sieves, and so forth when it is wet.
sieves and strainers
sieves and strainers
are used to sift, aerate, and help remove any large impuri
FOOD M ILL
CO NICAL S IEV ES
BLA N D ER
RICER
CHEESECLO TH
55
pots, pans, and molds

Various m aterials and com binations o f m aterials are used
o f heat, b u t it is o fte n used because it has o th e r advan
in the con stru ction o f pots, pans, and molds. Because fo rm
tages, includ in g easy m aintenance. O th er m etals, such
and fu n ctio n are closely related, it is im p o rta n t to choose
as alum inum or copper, are o fte n sandw iched w ith s ta in
the pro pe r equipm ent fo r the ta sk a t hand.

Pots m ade o f c op pe r tra n s fe r heat ra p id ly and
evenly b u t because d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith cop pe r w ill a f
fe c t th e co lo r and co n siste n cy o f m any foo ds, copper
less ste e l to im prove heat conduction. S tain le ss stee l

w ill n o t re a ct w ith foo ds; f o r exam ple, w h ite
sauces w ill rem ain pure w h ite o r ivory.
B lu e-stee l, b la ck-ste e l, p re sse d -ste e l, o r ro lle d -
p o ts are g e ne rally lined. (An e xce p tio n is a copper pan
ste e l pans are all prone to d is c o lo ra tio n b u t tra n s m it
used to cook jam s, je llie s , cho colates, and o th e r high-
heat very rapidly. These pans are g e ne rally th in and are
sugar item s, o fte n known as a p re se rvin g pan.) G reat
o fte n p re fe rre d f o r sau tein g foo ds.
care m ust be take n n o t to scratch linings made o f s o ft
A lum inum is also an e xce lle n t co n d u cto r o f heat.
m e ta l such as tin . If th e linin g becom es scratche d or
However, it is a s o ft m e ta l th a t wears down quickly.
w ears away, it may be re p a ire d by re tin n in g . Copper also
When a m e ta l spoon o r w hip is used to s tir a w h ite or
te n d s to disco lo r quickly; its p ro p e r upkeep requires
lig h t-c o lo re d sauce, soup, or s to c k in an alum inum pot,
s ig n ific a n t tim e and labor.
th e fo o d m ay ta ke on a gray color. Alum inum also rea cts
Cast iron has th e ca p a city to hold heat w e ll and
w ith acidic fo o d s. A nodized or tre a te d alum inum ten ds
tra n s m it it very evenly. The m e ta l is som ew hat b r ittle
no t to rea ct, and is one o f the m o st p o pu lar m etals fo r
and m ust be tre a te d c a re fu lly to p re ve n t p ittin g , sca r
p o ts used in c o n te m p o ra ry kitchens.
ring, and rustin g. Cast iron coa ted w ith enam el is easier
N o n stick coa ting s on pans have some use in p ro fe s
to clean b u t loses som e o f its n o n stick p ro p e rtie s and
sional kitche ns, e sp ecially f o r re s ta u ra n ts th a t o ffe r
cannot w ith s ta n d as high a te m p e ra tu re as u n tre a te d
fo o d s cooked w ith less f a t and oil. However, the se su r
ca st iron. S tain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly p o o r c o n d u cto r
face s are n o t as s tu rd y as m e ta l linings.
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF COPPER PANS

This technique for cleaning and shining
agent, and the flour provides the binder.
copper cookware has been used by chefs
Coat copper surfaces completely with this
for many years and is still favored because
paste, then vigorously massage them clean
it is fast, inexpensive, and efficient. Mix
with a cloth. Clean the interior cooking
equal parts of flour and salt, and then add
surfaces as you would other pots and pans,
enough distilled white vinegar to form a
with a gentle scouring pad and cleanser.
paste. The vinegar will react with the cop
NOTE: Delicate copper serving dishes
per to erase any discoloration caused by

oxidation and heat. Any other acid, such
and utensils should be cleaned with a com

mercial cream or polish without abrasives,
as lemon juice, would work equally well,
to avoid scratching.
but white vinegar is typically the most eco

nomical choice. The salt acts as a scouring
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
stockpot/marmite
Large po t, ta lle r tha n it is w ide, w ith s tra ig h t sides; m ay have a s p ig o t
saucepan
Has s tra ig h t or s lig h tly fla re d sides and a sin gle long handle
sauce pot
S im ila r to a s to c k p o t in shape, a lth ou gh n o t as large; has s tra ig h t sides and tw o

loop handles
rondeau
W ide, fa irly shallow p o t w ith tw o loop handles. W hen m ade fro m cast iron, f r e
q u e n tly known as a "g risw o ld "; may have a sin gle s h o rt handle ra th e r than tw o loop
handles. A b ra sie r is sim ila r; may be square in ste a d o f round
sauteuse/saute pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith slo p in g sides and a sin gle long handle
sautoir/fry pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith s tra ig h t sides and a single long handle
omelet pan/
crepe pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith ve ry sh o rt, s lig h tly slo p in g sides; m o st o fte n made o f ro lle d or
blue s te e l
bain-marie/double
boiler
N e stin g p o ts w ith single long handle. "B a in -m a rie " also re fe rs to s ta in le s s -s te e l

co n ta in e rs used to hold fo o d in a stea m ta b le
griddle
F la t w ith no sides; may be b u ilt d ire c tly in to th e stove
fish poacher
Long, n a rrow lid d e d p o t w ith s tra ig h t sides; includes a p e rfo ra te d rack f o r holding
fis h
steamer
P air o f sta cke d p o ts; lid d e d to p p o t has a p e rfo ra te d b o tto m . Also, bam boo basket
w ith t ig h t - f it t in g lid; can s it in a w ok
Stovetop Pots and Pans
SEASONING PANS
Chefs who use pans made of cast iron or
one hour. Remove the pan from the oven
rolled steel often season their pans to seal
and let it cool. Wipe away any excess oil
the pores. Seasoning preserves the cooking
with paper towels. Repeat the procedure
surface and essentially creates a nonstick
every so often to renew the seal. To clean a
coating. To season a pan, pour enough

cooking oil into the pan to evenly coat the
seasoned pan, use a bundle of paper towels

to scour salt over the surface of the pan un
bottom to a depth of about Va in/6 mm.
til the food particles have been removed.
Place the pan in a 3OO0F/i49C oven for
c h a p te r 5 E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
57
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
some applications, but these surfaces are not as sturdy
Pots and pans used on the stovetop may be made from
as metal, so another choice for nonstick cookery would
a variety of materials, but they must be able to with
be cast iron. Blue-steel and black-steel, pressed-steel,
stand direct heat from a flame. A poorly produced pot
or rolled-steel pans are often preferred for sauteing be
will have weak spots and will warp. Pans may be made
cause of their quick response to changes in temperature.

When choosing a pot or pan, consider the following
of many different materials, and selection in large part

weighs on preference. Heat conductivity and evenness
information:
of heat transfer are important to consider as well as the
l.
maintenance of the pan; for example, copper is great
Be familiar with the capacity of various pots, pans, and
for conductivity but requires significant time and labor
molds. If too many pieces of meat are crowded into a
for proper upkeep. Nonstick coatings may be useful for
sauteuse, for instance, the food will not brown properly.
Choose a size appropriate to the food being cooked.
S A U CE POT WITH LID

RONDEAU
S A U CEPAN WITH LID
NONSTICK S AU TEU SE
TWO NESTED STAIN LESSSTEEL SAU T EU SE S
58
that the pot transmit heat evenly and hold it well than
drippings from the meat) could scorch. If a small fish is
respond rapidly to changes in heat.
poached in a large pot, the cuisson (cooking liquid) will
3.
not have the proper intensity of flavor.
niques. Avoid subjecting pots to heat extremes and rapid
2. Choose material appropriate to the cooking tech
changes in temperature (e.g., placing a smoking-hot pot
Use proper handling, cleaning, and storing tech
nique. Experience has shown, and science has verified,
into a sinkful of water) because some materials are prone
that certain cooking techniques are more successful
to warping. Other materials may chip or even crack if al
when used with certain materials. For instance, sauteed
lowed to sit over heat when they are empty or if they are
foods require pans that transmit heat quickly and are sen
handled roughly. Casseroles or molds made of enameled
sitive to temperature changes. Braises, on the other hand,
cast iron or steel are especially vulnerable.
require long, fairly gentle cooking; it is more important
STOCKPOT WITH LID
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
If the sauteuse is too large, however, the fond (Maillard
BAM BO O S T EA M ER
FISH PO ACHER
SAUTOIR WITH LID
c h a p te r 5 E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
59
pans for oven cooking
Pans used in
they transfer heat more evenly. Regarding heat conduc
ovens are produced from the same basic materials used
tivity, some metals heat faster than others. Aluminum
to make stovetop pots and pans. Glazed and unglazed
heats quickly but is susceptible to burning food if it is a
earthenware, glass, and ceramics are also used. The heat
light gauge. On the other hand, stainless steel is a poor
of the oven is less intense than that of a burner, making
conductor of heat but works best for baking in a lighter
it possible to use these more delicate materials without
gauge. Tin is a good conductor of heat, while materials
risk of cracking or shattering. Metal pans are available
such as glass, ceramic, and earthenware hold heat well
in several gauges (gauge refers to the thickness of the
but transfer it poorly.
metal). Heavy-gauge pans are usually preferred because
SPRIN G FO RM PAN
STACKED FROM BOTTOM TO TOP:
M UFFIN TIN, LO OSE-BOTTOM ED TART PAN,
C A K E PANS
B U N D TPA N
LO AF PAN
pots and pans for oven coo
ROASTING PAN
PATE EN CROUTE MOLD
P U L LM A N LO A F PAN
GRATIN DISHES. RA M EK IN S
(NESTED IN THE GRATIN DISH)
F LE X IB LE SILICONE MOLD
6l
Oven Pans and Molds

1 NAME(S)
roasting pan
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
R e cta ng ula r pan w ith m ed iu m -h ig h sides;
R o astin g or baking
com es in va rio u s sizes
sheet pan
V ery sha llo w re c ta n g u la r pan; m ay be fu ll

or h a lf size
Baking; storag e
hotel pan/
steam table pan/
chafing dish
R e cta ng ula r pans, a va ila ble in a w ide range

o f sizes. C hafing dishes and h o te l pans are
usually o f sta n d a rd sizes, so m o st o f the m
w ill f i t to g e th e r p ro p e rly
O ccasionally f o r p re p a rin g fo o d s
b u t m ore o fte n to hold cooked
fo o d s in stea m ta b le s, h o t boxes,
o r e le c tric o r gas steam ers. F re
q u e n tly used to hold m eats being
m a rin a te d and f o r re frig e ra te d
fo o d storag e
pate mold
terrine mold
Deep re c ta n g u la r m e ta l m old, usually has

hinged sides to fa c ilita te rem oval o f the
pate. S pecial shapes may be ava ila ble
C ooking pate en cro u te
M ay be re c ta n g u la r or oval, w ith a lid.
C ooking o r m o ld in g te rrin e s
T ra d itio n a lly e a rth en w are , may also be

enam eled cast iron
gratin dish
S hallow oval baking dish; ceram ic, enam

eled cast iron, o r enam eled ste e l
ramekin
Round, s tra ig h t-s id e d ceram ic dish; comes

in variou s sizes
Baking g ra tin s
Baking s o u ffle s; som etim es fo r

m olding fro ze n s o u ffle s; sauce cups;
baked custard; baked or chilled pud
dings; g ra tins; and a v a rie ty o f o th e r
uses
timbale mold
Sm all m e ta l o r ceram ic m old
M o ld in g in d ivid u a l p o rtio n s o f
fo o d s
flexible silicone mold
A vaila ble in d iffe r e n t sizes and shapes
F orm ing fo o d s in to a v a rie ty o f

shapes; can be used a t high te m
p e ra tu re s and f o r fre e z in g
cake pan
S tra ig h t sided; a va ila ble in va rio u s sizes

and shapes. Can be used in a w a te r bath
Baking cakes, cheesecakes, and

som e ro lls
springform pan
S im ila r to cake pan, b u t w ith sep a ra te b o t

to m . Sides have s p rin g to release f o r easy
rem oval
Baking cakes
loose-bottomed
tart pan
S hallow pan w ith rem o vab le b o tto m . Sides

may be flu te d or s tra ig h t, and are g e n e r
a lly s h o rte r tha n th o se o f pie pans. M ay be
round, rectan gu lar, or square
B aking ta rts
pie pan
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
Round pan w ith fla re d sides; d e e p e r than
Baking pies and quiches
t a r t pan; a va ila ble in a v a rie ty o f sizes
loaf pan
Deep pan, usually rectan gu lar. Sides may
Baking breads and m eatloaves
be s tra ig h t o r s lig h tly fla re d
Pullman loaf pan
R e cta ng ula r pan w ith lid; pro du ces f la tto p p e d loaves
B aking s p e c ia lty bread
Pan w ith sm all, round de pre ssion s, w hich
B aking m u ffin s and cupcakes
'
muffin tin
com e in d iffe re n t sizes
Bundt pan
tube pan
Deep, round pan w ith tu b e in th e center.

M ay have o rn a te shapes
C re a tin g a s p e c ific shape o f cake,
Deep, round pan w ith s tra ig h t sides and

tu b e in th e center. Some are s im ila r to
s p rin g fo rm pans, w ith rem o vab le sides
B aking angel fo o d cake, pound

cakes, o r c h iffo n cakes
NAME(S)
in clu d in g c h iffo n and pound cakes
63
large equipment
When working with large equipment, safety precautions
CONVECTION STEAMER Steam is generated in a
must be observed and proper maintenance and cleaning
boiler, then piped to the cooking chamber, where
done consistently.
it is vented over the food. Pressure does not build
1. Obtain proper instruction in the machines safe

operation.
2. First turn o ff and then unplug electrical equipment
before assembling it or breaking it down.
up in the unit; it is continuously exhausted, which

means the door may be opened at any tim e w ithout
danger of scalding or burning.
DEEP-FAT FRYER This consists of a gas or electric
heating elem ent and a large stainless-steel res
3. Use all safety features: Be sure that lids are secure,
ervoir th a t holds the fa t. A th erm ostat allows the
hand guards are used, and the machine is stable.
user to control the tem perature of the fat. S tain
4. Clean and sanitize the equipment thoroughly a fter

each use.
5. Be sure that all pieces of equipment are properly re
assembled and left unplugged a fte r each use.
6. Report any problems or malfunctions promptly, and
alert coworkers to the problem.
less-steel w ire mesh baskets are used to lower and

lift foods into and out of the fat.
R AN GE S A N D OVENS
The stovetop is known as the range; the oven is usually
below the range. However, there are a number of varia
tions on this standard arrangement. Gas or electric
ranges are available in many sizes and with d ifferen t
KE T TL ES A N D S T E A M E R S
Kettles and steamers enable a chef to prepare large
amounts of food efficiently, since the heat is applied
over a much larger area than is possible when a single
burner is used. Cooking times are often shorter than
when using the stovetop.
combinations of open burners, flatto ps (not to be con

fused with griddle units), and ring tops. Open burners
and ring tops supply direct heat, which is easy to change
and control. Flattops provide indirect heat, which is
more even and less intense than direct heat. Foods th at
require long, slow cooking, such as stocks, are more
effectively cooked on a flatto p. Small units known as
STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE This freestanding
candy stoves or stockpot ranges have rings of gas jets
or tabletop ke ttle circulates steam through the
or removable rings under a flatto p, allowing for excel
double-sided walls, providing even heat. Units
lent heat control. Ovens cook foods by surrounding them
vary; they may tilt, may be insulated, and may have
with hot air, a gentler and more even source of heat than
spigots or lids. Available in a range of sizes, these
the direct heat of a burner.
kettles are excellent fo r producing stocks, soups,

and sauces.
OPEN-BURNER RANGE This type of range has

individual g rate-style burners th at allow fo r easy
TILTING KETTLE This large, relatively shallow
adjustm ent of heat.
freestanding unit (also known as a Swiss brasier,

tiltin g skillet, or tiltin g fry pan) is used fo r braising,
stewing, and sauteing large quantities of meats or
vegetables at one tim e. M ost tiltin g kettles have
lids, allowing fo r steaming as well.
PRESSURE STEAMER W ater is heated under
pressure in a sealed com partm ent, allowing it
to reach tem peratures above the boiling point,
FLATTOP RANGE This consists of a thick plate of

cast iron or steel set over the heat source. Flattops
give relatively even and consistent heat but do not
allow fo r quick adjustm ents of tem perature.
RING-TOP RANGE This is a fla tto p with plates th at
can be removed to widen the opening, supplying
more or less heat.
2 1 2 F /1 0 0 C . Cooking tim e is controlled by auto
INDUCTION COOKTOP This relies on the magnetic
matic tim ers, which open the exhaust valves at the
attractio n between the cooktop and steel or cast
end.
iron in the pan to generate heat. The cooktop itself

remains cool. Reaction tim e is significantly fas ter
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
P
i -i
than fo r traditional burners. Pans containing cop
as a setting in a gas or electric oven. If the broiler
per or aluminum may not be used.
is contained as a separate unit, it is known as a
CONVECTION OVEN Fans force hot air to circulate

around the food, cooking it evenly and quickly.
Some convection ovens have the capacity to intro
duce moisture.
C O NVEN TIO NAL/DECK OVEN The heat source is
located on the bottom , underneath the deck (floor)
of the oven. Heat is conducted through the deck
to the cavity. Conventional ovens can be located
below a range top or as separate shelves arranged
one above another. The la tte r are known as deck
salamander and is used prim arily to finish or glaze
SMOKERS
R EF R I G E R A T I O N E Q U I P M E N T
consist of two to four decks, although single-deck
storage must be evaluated and coordinated. All units

should be maintained property, which means regular and
thorough cleaning.
W ALK-IN This is the largest style of refrigeration
and convection oven. It can be used in steam mode,
unit and usually has shelves arranged around the
hot-air convection mode, or h eat/s te am (combi)
walls. It is possible to zone a walk-in to maintain
mode.
appropriate tem perature and humidity levels for
generate microwave radiation, which cooks or re

heats foods very quickly. Some models double as
convection ovens.
GR ID DL E S AND G R I L L S
Two other range/oven features, the griddle and the
grill, are part of the traditional commercial foodservice
setup.
GRIDDLE Sim ilar to a fla tto p range, a griddle has a
heat source located beneath a thick plate of metal,
generally cast iron or steel. The food is cooked di
rectly on the griddle surface.
G R ILL/B R O ILE R /S A LA M A N D E R In a grill, the
heat source is located below a rack; in a broiler or
salamander, the heat source is above. Some units
rD
evenly.
Maintaining adequate refrigerated storage is crucial to
MICROWAVE OVEN This oven uses ele ctricity to
13
operated at either cool or hot tem peratures. Smokers

generally have racks or hooks th at allow foods to smoke
any foodservice operation; therefore, the menu and the
either gas or electricity, is a combination steam er
i*
A true smoker will tre a t foods with smoke and can be
instead of on a wire rack. Deck ovens normally
COMBI OVEN This piece of equipment, powered by
n>
foods.
ovens, and the food is placed directly on the deck
models are available.
QTQ
ft)
storing various foods. Some walk-ins are large

enough to accomm odate rolling carts fo r addi
tional storage. Some have pass-through or reach-in
doors to fa c ilita te access to frequ en tly required
items. W alk-ins may be situated in the kitchen or
outside the facility.
REACH-IN A reach-in may be a single unit or part
of a bank of units, available in many sizes. Units
w ith pass-through doors are especially helpful for
the pantry area, where cold items can be retrieved
by the w ait s ta ff as needed.
O N-SITE REFRIGERATION R efrigerated drawers
or undercounter reach-ins allow ingredients to be
held on the line at the proper tem perature.
PORTABLE REFRIGERATION A refrigerated cart
can be placed as needed in the kitchen.
have adjustable racks th a t allow the food to be
DISPLAY REFRIGERATION Display cases are gen
raised or lowered to control cooking speed. Some
erally used in the dining room fo r desserts, salads,
grills burn wood, charcoal, or both, but units in
or salad bars.
restaurants are o ften either gas or electric fired,

with ceramic "rocks th at create a bed of coals to
produce the e ffe c t of a charcoal grill. Broilers radi
ate an intense heat from above and can be found
Chapter 5 E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
65
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment

Grinders, slicers, and pureeing equipment all have the potential to be extremely
dangerous. As these tools are essential for a number of operations, all chefs
should be able to use them with confidence.
FOOD PRO CESSO R
BLENDER
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment
IMM ERSION BLEN D ER
STANDING M IXER
AND ATTACHM ENTS
c h a p t e r s E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
67
Grinding, Slicing, Mixing, and Pureeing Equipment

NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
blender
C o nsists o f a base th a t houses th e m o

t o r and a rem o vab le lid d e d ja r w ith a
and e m u ls ify in g fo o d s
E xce lle n t f o r pureeing, liq u e fyin g ,
p ro p e lle r-lik e blade in its b o tto m . Speed

s e ttin g s f o r m o to r are in base. Jars
made o f sta in le ss stee l, p la stic, o r glass;
a va ila ble in several cap a citie s
food processor
immersion blender/
hand blender/stick
blender/burr mixer
M o to r housed in base, s e p a ra te ly fro m

rem o vab le bowl, blade, and lid. M ay have
G rinding, pureeing, blending, em u l

sify in g , crushing, and kneading. W ith
e xtra d isks f o r spe cia lize d c u ttin g
special disks: slicing, ju lie nn ing , and

shre dd ing
Long, sle n d e r one-piece m achine; like

an in v e rte d blender. Top houses m o
to r, w hich ge n e ra lly runs a t only one
Pureeing, liq u e fy in g , and e m u ls ify in g

large ba tches o f fo o d d ire c tly in the
co o kin g vessel
speed. P la stic handle w ith o n /o ff sw itch

exte n d s fro m to p o f housing. S ta in le sss te e l d riv e s h a ft exte n d s fro m m o to r and
ends w ith blade, w hich is im m e rsed in
th e fo o d
vertical chopping
machine (VCM)
food chopper/
buffalo chopper
M o to r in base is p e rm a n e n tly a tta ch e d

to bow l w ith in te g ra l blades. As a s a fe ty
p re ca u tio n , hinged lid m ust be locked in
place b e fo re u n it w ill op e ra te
G rinding, w h ip p in g em u lsifyin g ,
blending, crushing large q u a n titie s
Food is placed in a ro ta tin g bow l th a t

passes under a hood, w h ere blades chop
th e fo o d . Some have hoppers or fee d
C hopping large q u a n titie s o f foo d;

w ith special disks: slicin g or g ra tin g
o f fo o d
tu b e s and in te rch a n g e a b le disks. A v a il

able in flo o r and ta b le to p m odels
food sheer/
meat slicer
C a rrie r moves fo o d back and fo r th
mandoline
Blades o f high -carbo n stee l. Levers ad

ju s t blades to achieve cu t and th ickn e ss
de sire d. Guard p ro v id e s s a fe ty
S licing, ju lie n n in g , c u ttin g g a u fr e tte s
stand mixer
E le c tric m achine has large d e tacha ble

bow l o f v a ryin g ca p a citie s (5 -q u a rt,
1 0 -q u a rt, 2 0 -q u a rt, 4 0 -q u a rt, etc.). A t
ta ch m e n ts: whip, paddle, dough hook.
Bow l is locked in place and a tta c h m e n t
ro ta te s th ro u g h b a tte r o r dough
M ixing, be atin g, w h ipp in g, kneading
meat grinder
M ay be fre e s ta n d in g m achine o r a tta c h

m e n t f o r a sta n d in g m ixer. Should have
disks o f va ry in g sizes; in general w ill
have a fe e d tra y and a pusher
G rinding; s tu ffin g sausage casings

(w ith a tta c h m e n t)
S licin g fo o d s in even thickn esse s
ag ainst c irc u la r blade, g e n e ra lly made o f

carbon ste e l. Guard pro vid es s a fe ty
and b a to n n e ts
meat, poultry,
and game
identification
For most restaurants, the purchase, preparation, and service of meats is one of
the most expensive areas of the business but also one of the most potentially
profitable. In order to get the most value out of the meats purchased, it is imp
to understand how to select the right cut for a particular cooking method.
CHAPTER 6
meat basics
The m eat, p o u ltry , and game cuts th a t a re s ta u ra n t
V acuum -packed m eats can be sto re d d ire c tly in the
should buy w ill depend upon th e na ture o f the p a rtic u la r
package, as long as it has n o t been pu ncture d or ripped.
op era tion. A re s ta u ra n t fe a tu rin g p re d o m in a n tly a la
Once unw rapped, m eats should be rew rapped in a ir-p e r
m in ute p re p a ra tio n s e sp e cia lly one w ith a p re p o n d e r
m eable paper, such as butcher's paper, because a irtig h t
ance o f g rille d or sauteed ite m s w ill need to purchase
c o n ta in e rs p ro m o te b a c te ria l g ro w th th a t could re s u lt in
e x tre m e ly te n d e r (and m ore expensive) cuts. A re s ta u
spoilage or co n ta m in a tio n .
ran t th a t uses a v a rie ty o f tech niq ue s may be able to use
V a rie ty m eats, p o u ltry , and uncured po rk pro du cts,
some le ss-te n d e r c u ts fo r exam ple, th e veal shank in a
w hich have s h o rt s h e lf lives, should be cooked as soon
braise such as osso buco.
as po ssib le a fte r th e y are received. M e a t sto re d a t the
M ea ts can be purchased in a num ber o f fo rm s and at
p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re and under o p tim a l co n d itio n s can
va ryin g degrees o f readiness to cook. The ch e f should
be held f o r several days w ith o u t no tice a b le loss o f qual
con sid er several fa c to rs when de cid ing w h a t ty p e o f
ity. M e a t can also be fro z e n f o r longer storage.
m ea t to buy. S torage cap acity, th e e q u ip m e n t req uire d

to pre pa re a menu item , th e kitch e n s t a f fs a b ility to
fa b ric a te cuts, and th e volum e o f m ea t re q u ire d m ust
REFRIGERATED: 28 TO B 2 F /-2 T O 0C
FROZEN: 0 TO 2 0 F /- 1 8 TO -7C
all be take n in to con sid e ra tio n . Once th is in fo rm a tio n

is evaluated, th e ch e f can d e te rm in e w h e th e r it is m ore
econom ical to purchase large pieces, such as w hole legs
o f veal, or p re fa b ric a te d m eats, such as veal already cut
in to a to p round, o r p re c u t scaloppini.
M e a ts should be checked fo r w holesom eness and
freshness. Cut surface s should appear m o ist, b u t not
shiny. The m eat should have a good color, which varies
by ty p e as w ell as by cut. The m ea t should also sm ell ap
pealing. Packaged m eats should arrive w ith th e packag
ing in ta c t w ith no pu ncture s or tea rs.
The ta b le s accom panying th e fo llo w in g se ctio n s
con tain key pieces o f in fo rm a tio n ab ou t beef, veal, pork,
and lamb, ad ap te d fro m The M e a t Buyer's Guide by the
N o rth A m erican M e a t P rocessors A sso cia tio n (NAMP),
includ in g ite m num bers as assigned by th e N AM P and
an average range in size f o r a cut. A p p ro p ria te cooking
m ethods fo r v ariou s cuts have also been included.
STORAGE
I N S P EC TI ON AND GR AD IN G
G overnm ent in sp e ctio n o f all m eats is m andatory.
Insp ection s are re q u ire d a t various tim e s: a t th e slaugh
te rh o u se (a n te m o rte m ) and again a fte r b u tch e rin g
(po stm o rte m ). This is done to ensure th a t th e anim al is
fre e fro m disease and th a t th e m ea t is w holesom e and
f i t f o r human con sum p tion. Insp ection is a service paid
fo r by ta x dollars.
Some s ta te s have re linq uished the re s p o n s ib ility fo r
in sp e ctin g m eats to fe d e ra l in spe cto rs. Those sta te s
th a t s till a d m in is te r th e ir own in sp e ctio n s o f m eat
m ust at le a st m eet, if n o t exceed, the acce pted fe d e ra l
standards.
Q u a lity grading, however, is n o t m andatory. The
U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re (USDA) has developed
s p e c ific sta n d a rd s to assign grades to m eats and tra in s
graders. The packer may, however, choose n o t to hire a
USDA g ra de r and may fo rg o g ra ding in fa v o r o f the use
o f an in-house brand name instead. The costs involved
M eats, p o u ltry , and game should be w rapped and sto re d
in gra ding m ea ts are absorbed by th e in dividu al m eat
under re frig e ra tio n . W hen possible, th e y should be held
packer, n o t th e taxp ayer, since th is process is volun ta ry.
in a separate unit, o r a t le a st in a sep a ra te p a rt o f the

cooler. They should always be placed on tra y s to pre ven t
the m fro m d rip p in g o n to o th e r fo o d s o r th e flo o r.
The ch e f should sep ara te d iffe re n t kinds o f m eats;
Depending upon th e p a rtic u la r animal, th e grader w ill

consider overall carcass shape, ra tio o f fa t to lean, ra tio
o f m eat to bone, color, and m arbling o f lean flesh. The
grade placed on a p a rticu la r carcass is then applied to all
f o r exam ple, p o u ltry should n o t com e in to co n ta c t
the cuts fro m th a t animal. In beef, only a sm all percentage
w ith beef, or p o rk p ro d u c ts in to c o n ta c t w ith any o th e r
o f m eats produced is graded prim e. Choice and select
m eats. This w ill p re ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n .
are m ore o fte n available. Grades lower than select are
p o u ltry , and som e game are cu s to m a rily used fo r kosher
im portance to the re sta u ra n t (or re ta il) industry.
p re p a ra tio n s. Kosher m eats are bu tchere d fro m ani
Some m eats may also receive yie ld grades. This
m als s la u g h te re d by a shohet, o r by a spe cia lly train ed
grade is o f th e g re a te s t s ig n ifica n ce to w holesalers. It
rabbi. The anim al m ust be k ille d w ith a single s tro k e o f a
in dica tes th e am o un t o f salable m eat in re la tio n to the
kn ife , the n fu lly bled. A ll th e veins and a rte rie s m ust be
to ta l w e ig h t o f th e carcass. B utch ers re fe r to th is as
rem oved fro m th e m eat. This process w ould e sse n tia lly
"cu ta b ility." In o th e r w ords, it is a m easure o f th e yie ld o f
m u tila te th e fle s h o f loins and legs o f b e e f and veal;
edible m eat fro m each pound o f th e carcass.
th e re fo re , th e se are g e n e ra lly n o t sold as kosher.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF MEAT
OF F AL
A fte r sla ug hterin g, in spe ction, and grading, the anim al
O ffa l can b e s t be de scrib ed as th e ed ib le by-p ro d u cts
carcass is cu t in to m anageable pieces. Sides are p re
o f a m ea t carcass. Exam ples include organ m eats such
pared by m aking a cu t down th e length o f th e backbone.
as th e liver, kidney, he art, brain, trip e , ce rta in glands,
Each side is cu t in to tw o pieces to make qu a rte rs, d iv id
and in te s tin a l tra c ts . In a d d itio n , th e cheeks, ta il, and
ing th e sides betw een s p e c ific ve rte b ra e . Saddles are
ton gue are p a rt o f th e o ffa l cate gory. O ffa l is generally
made by c u ttin g th e anim al across th e belly, again a t a
inexpensive b u t re q u ire s some s k ill to cook properly.
s p e c ifie d p o in t. The exa ct stan dard s f o r in d ivid u a l an i
Organ m eats are com posed o f fib e rs th a t are d iffe re n t
mal typ e s govern w here th e carcass is to be divided.
fro m th o se o f lean m uscle. M em branes, blood vessels,
The ne xt ste p is to cu t th e anim al in to w h a t are re
and con ne ctive tissu e s need to be rem oved fro m livers
fe rre d to as p rim a l cuts. There are u n ifo rm stan dard s fo r
and kidneys. Organ m eats, such as th e live r and kidneys,
beef, veal, pork, and lam b prim als. These large cuts are
are high in iron, w hich tra n s la te s in to rich flavo r. The ta il
the n fu rth e r broken down in to sub prim a ls. S ubprim als
has some m ea t and a lo t o f collagen and is ty p ic a lly used
are g e ne rally trim m e d and packed as fo o d se rvice , value
fo r rich braises.
added, o r HRI (H o te l, R estaurant, and In s titu tio n ) cuts.
In m any cu ltu re s, o ffa l is considered a delicacy.
There m ay be even m ore fa b ric a tio n o r b u tch e rin g done
Some o ffa l is con sid ered th e e p ito m e o f high cuisine.
in o rd e r to pre pa re steaks, chops, roa sts, o r ground
An exam ple w ould be th e fa tte n e d duck o r goose liver
m eat. These cuts are re fe rre d to as p o rtio n c o n tro l cuts.
known as fo ie gras. This m ea t has a con sisten cy th a t
The am o un t o f b u tc h e rin g done in packing plan ts
resem bles b u tte r and a d is tin c tiv e flavo r. Foie gras is
has increased over th e pa st several years. W hile it is s till
an exce p tio n to th e general rule th a t organ m eats are
possible to purchase hanging m eat, m o st o p e ra tio n s w ill
inexpensive and can com m and a high price. A n o th e r ex
buy w h a t is re fe rre d to as boxed m eat. This in dica tes
ce p tio n to th is rule is th e sw e etbre ad, or thym us gland,
th a t th e m eat has been fa b ric a te d to a s p e c ific p o in t
o f veal. W hen p ro p e rly prepared, th is s o ft-s tru c tu re d
(prim al, subprim al, o r re ta il cut), packed in Cryovac,
gland can be eaten w ith a fo rk . S w e etbre ad s are in high
boxed, and shipped f o r sale to purveyors, butchers,
dem and and w a rra n t a high cost.
chain re ta il o u tle ts , and so fo rth .
meat basics
generally used fo r processed m eat and are o f no pra ctical
Organ m ea ts te n d to be highly perishable and th e re

fo re m ust be used fre sh , w ith in a w eek o f slaughter, or
KOSHER MEATS
Kosher m eats are s p e cia lly sla ug htered , bled, and
fa b ric a te d in o rd e r to com p ly w ith re lig io u s d ie ta ry
purchased fro ze n . Be sure to keep fro z e n ite m s below

32 and -4 F /0 and -1 8 C to ensure th e fo rm a tio n o f
sm all ice c ry s ta ls and m inim ize damage.
laws. In th is cou ntry, only b e e f and veal fo re q u a rte rs ,
c h a p te r 6 MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
71
beef Beef is essential to the foodservice industry,
the tougher the meat. Specialty beef such as Kobe beef
especially in the United States. A significant source of
from Japan, Limousin beef from France, and Certified
protein, beef is featured in an array of classic and con
Angus, natural, organic, and dry-aged beef from the
temporary dishes. This expensive product demands spe
United States are also available.

The eight grades of beef, in order of highest to low
cial care and training. Utilizing as much of each cut to

maximize the yield is an important practice to follow.
Cattle used for the beef industry are typically steers
(castrated males) over one year old and heifers (female
est quality, are as follows: Prime, Choice, Select, Stan

dard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Prime is
usually reserved for restaurants and butcher shops.
cows) not required for breeding. The older the bovine,
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the round: 1. hind shank, 2. shank
stew, 3. top round, 4. to p round tie d as a roast, 5. marrow bones
a>
rc>
i- h
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the loin: 1. short loin, 2. porterhouse steak cut
from the sho rt loin, 3. top sirloin bu tt, 4. flan k steak, 5. tenderloin PSMO, 6. trim m ed ten der
loin, 7. tenderloin steaks, 8. boneless s trip loin, 9. po rtio n -cu t s trip loin steaks
ch a p te r 6 MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
73
beef, continued
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the rib: 1. short loin, 2. po rtion -cut short ribs,
3, rib eye lip on, 4. po rtion -cut rib steaks
74
n>
<D
1 -h
These cuts are from the primal cut known as the chuck: 1. trim m ed shoulder clod, 2. top blade, 3. shoulder
stew, 4. chuck roll, 5. brisket, 6. s k irt steak, 7. trim m ed s k irt steak, 8. tripe , 9. oxtail
ch a p te r 6 MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
75
Bovine Beef Primal Cuts

COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARYUSES
SHANK
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
HEEL .
B raising, s te w in g
SUBPRIMAL
round primal cut
O fte n bra ise d or stew ed; prepa red as

goulash
KNUCKLE
Braising, ro a s tin g
O fte n p re pa red as kabobs
TOP ROUND
R oasting, pan fry in g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a roulade,

bra cio le, or London b ro il
EYE ROUND
R oasting, bra isin g
P ot ro a ste d ; oven ro a s te d and sliced

th in ; carpaccio; fon due
BOTTOM ROUND
B raising
O fte n p re pa red as a p o t ro a st or
sau erb raten
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as stea ks
TENDERLOIN, PSMO
PORTION-CUT
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n p re p a re d as Chateaubriand,
to u rn e d o s, m edallions, or f ile t
m ignon
FLANK STEAK
B roilin g, g rillin g , bra isin g
loin primal cut

SIRLOIN (TOP SIRLOIN
BUTT)
O fte n p re pa red as London b ro il, b u tte r flie d , o r s tu ffe d
STRIP LOIN, 175

BONE-IN (SHELL); 180
BONELESS
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t or stea ks

(New York s trip steak)
SHORT LOIN
B roilin g, g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as p o rte rh o u se or

T -bone ste a k
BONE-IN EXPORT RIB,

109D E X P O R T STYLE
R oasting, g rillin g
O fte n pre p a re d as prim e rib roa st,

bone-in rib stea k, or cow boy stea k
BONELESS LIP-ON RIB,

112A
R oasting, g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre p a re d boneless as rib eye

ro a s t o r D elm onico stea ks
SHORT RIBS
B raising
O fte n braised, s lo w -ro a ste d , or
rib primal cut
barbecued
chuck primal cut

SQUARE-CUT CHUCK
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d as chuck ro a s t or

ground
SHOULDER CLOD
Braising, ro a stin g , stew ing , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as ste a ks or ground
rD
<t >
l- h )
COMMON CULINARY USES
PLATE
B raising
O fte n pre p a re d as s h o rt ribs
BRISKET
B raising
O fte n pre p a re d corned and as
5UBPRIMAL
market forms
p a stra m i
FORESHANK
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red ground
S au tein g
O fte n p re p a re d as fo rc e m e a t
B raising or slow sim m e rin g in a b ro th or
S lo w -b ra ise d or stew ed
variety meats (offal)

LIVER
TRIPE
red sauce
KIDNEYS
S te w in g
O fte n baked in to a pie
TONGUE
S im m e ring
O fte n pre p a re d sm oked
OXTAILS
O fte n slow braised as a stew , soup,

or ragoO t
INTESTINES
D epends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used as casing f o r sausage
HEART
O fte n pre p a re d in ste w or added to

dishes in chopped fo rm
BLOOD
Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used to p re p a re coa gu late sausages
loin
round
l
sirloin
1
sho rt loin
1
rib
1
chuck
1
foreshank
Beef skeletal structure
c h a p te r 6 MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
77
Beef HRI Cuts

WEIGHT RANGE
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
103
Rib (prim al)
3 5 -4 0
109
Rib, ro a s t-re a d y
1 8 -2 2
109D
Rib, ro a s t-re a d y , cover o ff, s h o rt-c u t
1 6 -1 8
11 2
Rib, rib eye ro ll
8 -1 0
11 2 A
Rib, rib eye ro ll, lip on
1 1 -1 3
113
Chuck, sq u a re -c u t (prim al)
7 9 -1 0 6
11 4
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod
1 5 -2 1
11 6A
Chuck, chuck ro ll, tie d
1 5 -2 1
120
B riske t, boneless, de ckle o f f
1 0 -1 2
121C
P late, s k irt s te a k (diaphragm ), o u te r
2 and up
121D
P late, s k irt stea k, inner
3 and up
123
Rib, s h o rt ribs
3 -5
1 2 3B
Rib, s h o rt ribs, trim m e d
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
166B
Round, rum p and shank p a rtia lly rem oved, handle on (steam sh ip )
5 2 -7 0
167
Round, knuckle
9 -1 3
1 6 7A
Round, knuckle, peeled
8 -1 2
1 69
Round, to p (inside)
1 7 -2 3
1 70
Round, b o tto m (gooseneck)
2 3 -3 1
170A
Round, b o tto m (gooseneck), heel o u t
2 0 -2 8
17 1B
Round, b o tto m , o u ts id e round f la t
1 0 -1 6
171C
Round, eye o f round
3 and up
172
Loin, fu ll loin, trim m e d (prim al)
5 0 -7 0
174
Loin, s h o rt loin, s h o rt-c u t
2 2 -2 6
(POUNDS)
fD
a>
WEIGHT RANGE
PRODUCT NAME
(POUNDS)
175
Loin, s trip loin, bone-in
1 8 -2 0
180
Loin, s trip loin, boneless
7 -1 1
181
Loin, s irlo in
1 9 -2 8
18 4
Loin, to p s irlo in b u tt, boneless
1 2 -1 4
185A
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, fla p , boneless
3 and up
185B
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, ba ll tip , boneless
3 and up
185D
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, tr i- t ip , boneless, d e fa tte d
3 and up
189
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in
189A
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle on, d e fa tte d
5 -6
190
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, d e fa tte d
3 -4
190A
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, skinned
3 -4
191
Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in
2 -4
193
Flank ste a k
1 and up
134
B e e f bones
A m o u n t as sp e cifie d
135
Diced b e e f
13 5 A
B e e f f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as sp e cifie d
13 6
G round b e e f
B e e f p a tty m ix
-10
79
veal
Veal is the flesh of a young calf, generally four
to five months old. Because of its young, delicately ten
consume a special diet and are the standard type of veal

used today; this veal is up to four months old.
der flesh, it is considered by some to be the finest meat
Veal should be selected by color; it should be light
available. Classical preparations include, but are not
pink in color and tender. The five USDA grades of veal,
limited to, osso buco, vitello tonnato, cordon bleu, veal
in order of highest to lowest quality, are Prime, Choice,
piccata, and veal scaloppine.
Good, Standard, and Utility. Because the overall ratio of
Fine veal calves are fed mothers milk or formula.

Milk-fed veal is up to twelve weeks old and is believed
meat to bone is less than a full-grown bovine, there are

proportionately fewer cuts of veal.
to have the most tender meat. Formula-fed calves
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. bottom round, 2. shank, 3. osso buco, 4. to p round cap off,
5. po rtion -cut veal cutlets, 6. trim m ed loin, 7. po rtion -cut chops
<1
<D
These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. rack (chop-ready), 2. trenched rack chops, 3. breast,
4. trim m ed shoulder clod, 5. stew, 6. sweetbreads, 7. liver, 8. kidney
Chapter 6 MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
8i
Bovine Veal Primal Cuts

SUBPRIMAL
SHANK
O fte n pre p a re d osso buco
HEEL
S te w in g
TOP ROUND; KNUCKLE;

BOTTOM ROUND;
D ry he at saute, ro a stin g , ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red as scaloppine, c u tle ts

(V 2 in /1 cm), sc h n itz e l [ lA in /6 mm),
leg primal cut
EYE ROUND; BUTT
em ince, escalope, and kabobs. Usable

trim o fte n used f o r ste w in g or p re
pared as fo rc e m e a t
loin primal cut

TENDERLOIN; SIRLOIN
R oasting, sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as m edallions,

n o is e tte s , and as a w hole ro a st
TR IM M ED LOIN;
R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), sauteing,

b ro ilin g
O fte n p re pa red as chops (bone-in or
SPLIT BONELESS LOIN

(STRIP LOIN)
boneless), m edallions, scaloppine,

em ince, escalope
hotel rack primal cut

RACK; SPLIT CHOPREADY RACK;
R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), b ro ilin g ,

g rillin g , sau tein g
FRENCHEDRACK
O fte n p re pa red as fre n ch e d or crown,

chops (bone-in, french ed ), and m e d a l
lions, scaloppine, em ince, escalope
square-cut shoulder primal cut

SQUARE-CUT
SHOULDER, BONELESS
R o astin g (boneless), stew ing , b ra isin g
SHOULDER CLOD
S tew ing , ro a stin g , bra isin g
BREAST
B raising, ro a s tin g
O fte n pre p a re d s tu ffe d , b u tte rflie d ,

o r as bacon
FORESHANK
B raising, s te w in g
O fte n p re pa red ground
CHEEKS
Used in braises and stew s
TONGUE
B raising, sim m e ring
O fte n used in th e p re p a ra tio n o f

te rrin e s
market forms
<
( I
p
5UBPRIMAL
SWEETBREADS
Poaching the n sau tein g
O fte n served as an a p p e tiz e r o r hors

d'oeuvre b u t can be served as an
en tre e
LIVER
O fte n served sau teed w ith onions
S au tein g
and o th e r fla v o rin g s such as sherry,

herbs, o r lem on
HEART
O fte n p re pa red in ste w or added to

dishes in chopped fo rm
KIDNEYS
S au tein g
O fte n fo u n d sauteed; served in a pie
BRAINS
Poaching the n sa u te in g
O fte n fo u n d in sauteed dishes b u t can

also be deep frie d
S im m e ring
FEET
M o s t o fte n used in m aking s to c k o r in

cla ssica l cold fo o d p re p a ra tio n s like
Zam bone
Veal skeletal structure
Chapter 6 MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
83
Veal HRI Cuts
84
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
306
H o te l rack, 7 ribs
1 0 -1 2
30 6 B
C hop -re ad y rack
4 -5
307
Rack, rib eye, boneless
3 -4
309
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, bone-in (prim al)
2 0 -3 6
30 9 B
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, boneless
1 9 -3 3
30 9D
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, neck o ff, boneless, tie d
1 8 -3 2
310A
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless
4 -7
31 0 B
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless, ro a s t
4 -7
312
Foreshank
2 -4
313
B rea st
6 -1 0
331
Loin (prim al)
1 0 -1 8
332
Loin, trim m e d
8 -1 4
344
Loin, s trip loin, boneless
3 -6
346
Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in , d e fa tte d
I-IV 2
334
Leg (prim al)
4 0 -7 0
336
Leg, shank o ff, boneless
1 1 -1 9
337
Hindshank
2 -4
337A
Shank, osso buco
13
363
Legs, TBS, 4 p a rts
2 4 -3 2
363A
Leg, TBS, 3 p a rts
1 6 -2 4
349
Leg, to p round, cap on
8 -1 2
349A
Leg, to p round, cap o f f
6 -8
39 5
Veal f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d
39 6
G round veal
A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d
T 3
O
Pork, the meat of domesticated pigs, is among
Because USDA grading is not required for pork and
the most popular meat sold in the United States. Typi
federal grading must be paid for, packers will often use
cally high in fat, pigs have been specifically bred over
their own grading system. This does not necessarily
many generations to produce leaner cuts of meat. Pigs
mean that various cuts of pork are not of good qual
are commonly slaughtered under one year of age to en
ity, for the grading systems used by major packers are
sure a tender product.
clearly defined and are generally reliable. In the tables
Although quality grades are less frequently assigned

to pork, when applied, the USDA grades, in order of
i-s
that follow, BRT indicates boned, rolled, and tied. RTE

signifies ready to eat.
highest to lowest quality, are 1, 2, 3, 4, and Utility.
These cuts are from the rear ha lf o f the swine: 1. ham prepared by smoking, 2. fresh ham,
3. ham prepared by curing (prosciutto), 4. center-cut pork loin, 5. frenched rib end o f loin,
6. baby back ribs, 7. boneless tie d loin roast, 8. tenderloin, 9. center-cut pork chop fro m the
loin end, 10. cen ter-cut pork chop from the rib end
c h a p te r 6 MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
85
pork, continued
These cuts are from the fro n t half o f the swine: 1. Boston butt, 2. pork picnic, 3. spare ribs,
4. fo o t. The follow ing are examples o f prepared pork items: 5. Genoa salami, 6. sliced bacon,
7. kielbasa, 8. chorizo, 9. pancetta, 10. Italian sausage, 11. breakfast sausage
86
o
Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts
SHAN K/H O C K
S tew ing , b ra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d sm oked o r corned
HAM (BONE-IN OR
BONELESS)
For fre s h ham, ro a s t (bone-in, BRT),

ro a s t w hole, ro a s t as sm a lle r sectio ns,
P ro s c iu tto ham, sa lte d and d ry-cu red

long te rm ; S m ith fie ld ham, drycured and sm oked; inside ham RTE,
SUBPRIMAL
ham primal cut
o r c u tle ts
baked; th in -s lic e d sm oked ham (w e tcured, h a lf o r w hole, b u tt/s h a n k );

bo ile d ham (w e t-cu re d , cooked to
1 4 5 F /6 3 C )
TOP ROUND
S a u tein g
O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts
R oasting, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or
loin primal cut

CENTER-CUT PORK LOIN
boneless); fre n ch e d , sm oked, chops

(bone-in); o r C a na dia n-style bacon
(boneless)
BONELESS LOIN
(EYE MUSCLE)
G rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts , m ed al

lions, o r sch n itze l
TENDERLOIN
R oasting, sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as m ed allio ns or

ro a s te d w hole
boston butt primal cut

BOSTON BUTT
R oasting, stew ing , sa u te in g
O fte n pre p a re d (bone-in, boneless)

as fo rc e m e a t o r sausages
COTTAGE BUTT
R o astin g o r fry in g as bacon
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (fre sh ) or

sm oked (English bacon)
O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t o r bone

less (boneless, BRT, skin on, fresh);
sm oked and cured (picnic ham,
sm oked shoulder); as ta sso ham; as
fo rc e m e a t (used f o r co ld -c u t
p re p a ra tio n s)
picnic primal cut

PICNIC (BO NE-IN OR
BONELESS)
87
Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts, continued

SUBPRIMAL
S auteed or ro a s te d when fre sh ; o th e r

fo rm s frie d
T yp ica lly cured fo r bacon, pa nce tta,
SPARE RIBS, ST. LOUIS

RIBS (TRIM M ED)
B arbecuing, b ra isin g
S low cooked in barbecue; can be

stea m e d o r sim m e red to te n d e rize
BABY BACK RIBS
B arbecuing
S low cooked as barbecued w hole
market forms
BELLY
o r s a lt p o rk b u t can be slow ro a ste d

o r braised as fre s h p o rk be lly
racks; can be se ctio n e d , coated, and

cooked in d iv id u a lly
FATBACK
S auteed
Can be fre s h o r salted; o fte n p re

pared as lardons; in c o n fit, cassoulet,
and fo rc e m e a t
B raising
O fte n p re pa red as fo rc e m e a t and as

sausage

JOWL, SNOUT, NECK
BONES, LIVER, HEART,
FEET, TOES, TAIL,
INTESTINES, KIDNEYS,
CAUL FAT
Boston b u tt
loin
Pork skeletal structure
o
Pork HRI Cuts
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
401
Fresh ham
1 8 -2 0
402B
Fresh ham, boneless, tie d
8 -1 2
403
Shoulder, picnic
6 -8
405A
Shoulder, picnic, boneless
4 -8
406
Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, bone-in (prim al)
4 and up
406A
Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, boneless
4 and up
408
B elly
1 2 -1 8
410
Loin (p rim a l)
1 6 -1 8
412
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, bone-in
8 -1 0
412B
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, boneless
4 -6
412C
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 rib s, bone-in
1 0 -1 2
412E
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 ribs, boneless
5 -7
413
Loin, boneless
9 -1 1
415
T end erloin
1 and up
416
Spare rib s
2 1/ 2 - 5 1/2
416A
Spare ribs, S t. Louis s ty le
2 -3
417
S h o ulder hocks
3/ t a n d up
418
T rim m in gs
420
F eet, fr o n t
1/2 -3/4
4 21
Neck bones
422
Loin, back ribs, baby back ribs
l 1/2 -2 1/4
89
lamb and mutton
Lamb is the tender meat
old. Lamb that is allowed to age over sixteen months is
produced by young, domesticated sheep. Its texture is a
known as mutton. Mutton is considered to have a more
direct result of what it consumes and the age at which
pronounced flavor and texture than lamb. As with other
it is slaughtered. The milk-fed varieties of lamb are in
varieties of meat, lamb becomes tougher as it ages.
clined to yield the most delicate meat. Once a lamb be
Lamb tends to be fatty. Its unique flavor pairs nicely
gins to eat grass, the flesh loses some of its tenderness.
with intense seasonings and accompaniments. The five
However, most lamb produced in the United States
grades of lamb, in order of highest to lowest quality, are
is finished on a grain diet and is six to seven months
Prime, Choice, Good, Utility, and Cull.
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. leg, 2. leg BRT, 3. trim m ed loin, 4. loin chops, 5. noisettes
90
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
lamb and m utton
These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. sp lit and chined rack, 2. frenched rack, 3. double- and
single-rack chops, 4. square-cut chuck/shoulder, 5. shoulder BRT, 6. shanks
91
Ovine (Lamb) Primal Cuts

SUBPRIMAL
S te w in g (bone-in or boneless), braising,

ro a s tin g (m o st com m on)
O fte n pre p a re d as leg o f lam b or

ro a s t (bone-in, BRT, oven-ready,
fre n ch e d , sem i-bon eless)
R oasting, sau tein g, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n p re pa red as steaks, scaloppine, o r b u tte r f lied
TRIM M ED LOIN, SPLIT;

BO N ELESS(EYE
MUSCLE); SIRLOIN
R o astin g (rare), sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in,
TENDERLOIN
Sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as m ed allio ns o r

n o is e tte s
RACK (SPLIT AND

CHINED)
R oasting, sau tein g, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t (bone-in,

crow n roa st); chops: A m erican (sin
g le /d o u b le ) o rfre n c h e d
BREAST
O fte n pre p a re d as rib le ts or s tu ffe d
leg primal cut

SHANK, HEEL, KNUCKLE,
EYE ROUND, BOTTOM
ROUND
TOP ROUND
loin primal cut

boneless); c u t in to chops
hotel rack primal cut
shoulder square primal cut

FORESHANK
M ay be pre p a re d bone-in o r boneless
NECK
SQ UARE-CUTCHUCK,
BONELESS
B raising, stew ing , g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or

BRT) o r chops (round o r blade bone)

TONGUE
S im m e rin g
O fte n sm oked
LIVER
S a u tein g
O fte n pre p a re d as fo rc e m e a t
HEART
S m a lle r h e a rts are o fte n s tu ffe d and

sau teed o r ro a s te d f o r a single
p o rtio n
KIDNEYS
S tew ing, b ra isin g
O fte n stew e d and served w ith he arty

in g re d ie n ts such as bacon and
m ushroom s
INTESTINES
Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used as casing f o r sausage
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
204
Rack (prim al)
6 -8
204B
Rack, ro a s t-re a d y , single
2 -4
206
S ho ulder
2 0 -2 4
207
Shoulder, square cut
5 -7
208
Shoulder, square cut, boneless, tie d
6 -8
209
B re a st
7 -1 1
210
Foreshank
2 -3
231
Loin
9 -1 1
232
Loin, trim m e d
6 -8
232B
Loin, double, boneless
3 -4
233
Leg, p a ir (prim al)
1 9 -2 0
233A
Leg, single, t r o t t e r o f f
1 0 -1 2
234
Leg, boneless, tie d , single
8 -1 0
233G
Leg, hindshank
1 and up
233E
Leg, ste a m sh ip
7 -9
295
Lam b f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as needed
295A
Lam b f o r kabobs
296
G round lamb
Lamb and m utton skeletal structure
foresaddle
lamb and m utton
Lamb HRI Cuts
whole carcass
hindsaddle
93
venison and furred game
Free-
commonly refers to deer, other members of the venison
roaming and domesticated wild animals fall under the
family include moose, elk, and reindeer. Buffalo and
category of game. A variety of game meats have become
wild boar are other popular large game.
increasingly popular due in part to customer awareness
The most common of the small game is rabbit.
of lower fat and cholesterol content. Depending upon
Rabbit has mild, lean, tender, and fine-textured meat.
the area of the country, several types of furred game are
A mature rabbit ranges from three to five pounds, and
available.
young rabbit is generally two to three pounds. The loin
Game meats are categorized into two segments:

large and small. Venison is the most popular large
game, characterized by lean meat that is free from
is often sauteed or roasted, while legs are commonly

braised or stewed.
Commercial game meats are federally inspected.
intramuscular fat, generally dark red in color, and suit
The quality of the flesh is a direct result of age, diet, and
able for roasting, sauteing, and grilling. Though venison
the time of year that it was killed.
These cuts are from a variety o f game animals: 1. venison leg/haunch, 2. boneless venison
loin, 3. venison medallions, 4. venison saddle, 5. frenched venison rack, 6. venison shoulder,
7. boneless venison shoulder, 8. rabbit
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
poultry The word poultry refers to any domesti
Similar to other meats, poultry must undergo a
cated bird used for human consumption. Once reserved
mandatory inspection for wholesomeness. The grades
r+
i- i
for special occasions, chicken and other poultry have
of USDA A, B, or C depend on numerous factors, such
become commonplace in restaurants and homes. The
as carcass shape and the ratio of meat to bone. Once
subtle and familiar flavor of chicken lends itself well
inspected, the birds are plucked, cleaned, chilled, and
to a number of different cooking methods. Considered
packaged. They may be purchased whole or in parts.
very nutritious, poultry entrees are among the most
Poultry is classified by age. The younger the bird, the
popular on most menus.
more tender the flesh.
"< !
These birds are examples o f geese and ducks: 1. Buddhist duck (called Pekin duck if the head is
removed), 2. moulard duck breast, 3. goose, 4. moulard duck legs, 5. fo ie gras
95
poultry, continued
These birds are examples o f the chicken fam ily: 1 .6-pound roaster chicken, 2. turkey,
B. stew ing hen, 4 . 3-pound fry e r chicken, 5. pheasant, 6. bone-in quail, 7. squab, 8. guinea
fow l, 9. semi-boneless quail
96
^ 0
Classes of Poultry
TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
APPROX.
AGE
APPROX. WEIGHT
BROILER
4 - 6 w eeks
FRYER
6 -1 0
weeks
COMMON COOKING
METHOD
COMMON CULINARY
USES
1 -3
B ro ilin g , g rillin g ,
sau tein g
O fte n pre pa red

w hole o r s p lit
3 '/2 - 4 1/2
R oasting, g rillin g ,
bro ilin g , s a u te in g
(POUNDS)
O fte n pre pa red

whole, s p lit,
qu a rte re d , or
d is jo in te d
7 -9
Over 10
m onths
6 -8
S im m e ring
FEMALE)
M o s t o fte n prepared
in a soup, sto ck, or
stew
POUSSIN
3 weeks
R o astin g
w hole
ROCK CORNISH HEN,
5 - 7 weeks
Less tha n 2
R o astin g
w hole or s p lit
U nder 8
m onths
7 -9
R o astin g
R oasted whole,
carving
HEN TURKEY
(FEM ALE)
5 -7
8 -2 0
R o astin g
R oasted whole
TOM TURKEY (M ALE)
O ver 7
m onths
20 and up
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
BROILER DUCKLING
U nder 8
weeks
4 -6
R oasting, sauteing,
O fte n only b re a s t is
pre pa red. Legs o fte n
p re pa red as c o n fit
U nder 12
6 -8
R o astin g
Slow ro a s t w hole or
cu t in half; can be
cu t in to p a rts and
ro a ste d
6 m onths
and up
8 -1 6
R o astin g
Can be dry cooked,
2 5 -3 0
days
3/ 4 - l
FOWL (STEWING HEN,
R o astin g
3 -5
m onths
ROASTER
w hole
CORNISH CROSS
CAPON (CASTRATED
M ALE)
ROASTER DUCKLING
m onths
g rillin g
weeks
GOOSE
SQUAB
ro a s te d w hole or cut
in half, cu t in to p a rts
and ro a ste d
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
97
Classes of Poultry, continued

TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
APPROX.
AGE
APPROX. WEIGHT
(POUNDS)
COMMON COOKING
METHOD
COMMON CULINARY
USES
PIGEON
2 -6
3/ 4 -l
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
m onths
PHEASANT
6 - 8 weeks
2 -3
R o astin g
Can be cooked by
d ry - or m o is t-h e a t
m ethods; can be
ro a ste d w hole o r cut
in h a lf
QUAIL
6 - 8 weeks
V a-V2
R oasting, g rillin g ,
b ro ilin g
R oasted w hole
fish and shellfish

identification
Fish and shellfish were once plentiful and inexpensive; however, due to overfishing and
the development and degradation of many coastal areas, demand has begun to outstrip
supply. These factors have caused many countries to pass regulations limiting
commercial fishing in specific waters, as well as the rise of aquaculture (the farm raising
of fish), to ensure reliable sources. And as the health benefits of fish are increasingly
becoming widely known, many Americans who traditionally favored red meats both at
home and when they eat out are ordering fish entrees more often.
JM
fish basics
The increased value of seafood demands th a t a chef
PAVE A portion-sized square cut from a fille t. A
must be fam iliar with a wide variety of fish and shellfish,
pave is generally cut from a large fille t, fo r exam
and th eir sources; be able to select absolutely fresh
ple, salmon, halibut, mahi mahi, or tuna.
fish and shellfish of the best quality; and understand

the best cooking method or methods to use in their
preparation.
The firs t step in the selection process is assessing
the purveyor or market. The fishmonger should properly
handle, ice, and display the fish and should be able to
FRESHNESS CHECKS FOR FINFISH

To ensure th at fish are of the best quality, the chef
should carefully inspect them, checking for as many of
the following signs of freshness and quality as possible:
answer any questions regarding the fish's origin and
Fish should be received a t a tem perature of
its qualities: lean or oily, firm -textu red or delicate, ap
4 0 F /4 C or less.
propriate fo r m oist-heat method or able to withstand a

grills heat.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF FISH
The fish should have a good overall appearance

(clear slime, no cuts or bruising, pliable fins).
The scales should adhere tigh tly to the fish.
Fish can be purchased fresh in the m arket forms de
The flesh should respond to light pressure and not
scribed below, as well as in frozen, smoked, pickled, or
fee l soft.
salted forms.
WHOLE FISH This is the fish as it was caught, com
pletely intact. This is typically referred to as "in
the round.
DRAWN FISH The viscera (guts) are removed, but
head, fins, and scales are still intact.
The eyes should be clear, bright, and bulging.

The gills should be bright pink to maroon in color,
and if mucous is present, it should be clear.
There should be no "belly burn" evidence th at the
viscera (guts) were le ft in the fish too long, result
ing in bacteria and enzymes breaking down the
H 6 G (HEADED AND GUTTED) OR HEAD-OFF

DRAWN The head and viscera (guts) are removed,
but scales and fins are still intact.
DRESSED FISH The viscera (guts), gills, scales, and
flesh along the rib cage.

The fish should have a clean, sweet, sea-like smell.
STORAGE
fins are removed. The head may or may not be re

moved. Also known as pan-dressed, these fish are
usually appropriate fo r a single serving.
Under correct storage conditions, fish and shellfish can

be held fo r several days w ithout losing any appreciable
quality. Ideally, however, the chef should purchase only
STEAK This is a portion-sized cross section cut
the amount of fish needed fo r a day or two and should
from a dressed fish. Portion cuts from the fille ts
store it properly, as described below:
of large fish, such as tuna and swordfish, are also

commonly called steaks.
1. Always keep fish at a proper storage tem perature

and handle them as little as possible. Finfish: 28 to
FILLET This is a boneless piece of fish, removed
3 2 F /-2 to 0C; smoked fish: 32F/0C ; caviar: 28
from either side of the backbone. The skin may or
to 3 2 F /- 2 t o 0C.
may not be removed before cooking. Purveyors

often sell fille ts "pin-bone in," so it is im portant to
specify "pin-bone out" when ordering.
TRANCHE A portion-sized slice of a fille t th at is
cut at a 45 -d e g ree angle to expose a g rea ter sur
face area. A tranche is generally cut from a large
fille t, fo r example, salmon or halibut.
lo o
2 . Whole, drawn, H 6 G, and dressed fish may be rinsed

at this point; scaling and fabricating should be de
layed until close to service time.
3. Place the fish on a bed of shaved or flaked ice in
a perforated container (such as a hotel pan with a
draining pan), preferably stainless steel. The fish
the top layer of ice from the storage container, and

replace it with fresh ice.
4. Cover with additional ice. Fish may be layered, if
Fish purchased as fille ts or steaks should be stored in
necessary, with shaved or flaked ice; cubed ice can
stain le ss- stee l containers set on ice. They should not be
bruise the fish's flesh. It also will not conform as
in d ire c t c o n ta ct w ith the ice, however, because as it melts,
closely to the fish. Shaved or flaked ice makes a
much o f the fla v o r and te x tu re o f the fish w ill be lost.
tig h ter seal around the entire fish. This prevents

undue contact w ith the air, slowing loss of quality
and helping to extend safe storage life.
5. Set the perforated container in a second container.
In this way, as the ice melts, the w ater will drain
away. If fish is allowed to sit in a pool of water, flavor
and textu re loss will occur. The longer it sits, the
g reater the loss of quality.
6. Re-ice fish daily. Even when properly iced, fish will
fish basics
should be belly down, and the belly cavity should be

filled with shaved ice as well.
Frozen fish , includ in g ice-glazed w hole fis h (re p e a t

edly coa ted w ith w a te r and fro ze n so th a t the ice builds
up in layers, co a tin g th e e n tire fish), in d ivid u a lly quick
fro z e n (IQF), and fro z e n fille ts (which are o fte n tre a te d
w ith sodium trip o ly p h o s p h a te [stp] to p ro m o te added
w a te r re te n tio n ) should be sto re d a t -2 0 to 0 F /-2 9 to
-1 8 C u n til ready to be tha w ed and cooked.
Do n o t acce pt any fro z e n fis h w ith w h ite fr o s t on its
edges. This in d ica te s fre e z e r burn, the re s u lt o f im p ro p
er packaging o r th a w in g and re fre e z in g o f th e product.
gradually lose some quality. To slow this loss, skim
common fish types

The s k e le ta l s tru c tu re o f fis h is a use ful means o f sepa
Fish m ay also be ca te g o rize d by th e ir a c tiv ity level:
ra tin g fin fis h in to sm a lle r groupings. The th re e basic
low, m edium , o r high. The m ore a fis h swim s, th e darker
typ e s o f fin fis h are fla t, round, and nonbony. F la tfis h
its fle s h w ill be. D a rke r-fle sh e d fis h have a higher oil
have a backbone th a t runs th ro u g h th e ce n te r o f th e
c o n te n t and, th e re fo re , a s tro n g e r flavo r. When choosing
fis h w ith tw o up pe r and tw o lo w er fille ts , and bo th eyes
th e b e st coo kin g tech niq ue fo r a given fish, consider the
on the same side o f th e head. Round fis h have a m iddle
o il c o n te n t o f th e fle sh . Low - and h ig h -a c tiv ity fis h have
backbone w ith one f ille t on e ith e r side, and one eye on
lim ite d coo kin g m ethods, w h ile m e d iu m -a c tiv ity fis h are
each side o f th e head. N onbony fis h have c a rtila g e ra th
q u ite v e rs a tile . (See th e ta b le s on pages 1 0 6 to 113.)
er than bones. (See diagram s on pages 1 0 4 and 113.)
c h a p t e r y FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
lO l
flat fish
The characteristics of flat fish include the
following: one pigmented and one nonpigmented side;

either right- or left-eyed; continuous dorsal and anal
fins that stop before the caudal fin.
HALIBUT
TURBOT
PET R A LE
SO LE
LEM O N SOLE
B LA C K -B A C K FLO U NDER
(RIGHT-EYED)
F LU K E (LEFT -E Y ED FLOUNDER)
DOVER SOLE
102
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND

CULINARY USES
Found th ro u g h o u t th e G u lf o f M aine
Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
flat fish
Flat Fish
right-eyed
GRAY SO LE/W ITCH
FLOUNDER
W INTER F LO U N D ER /
BLACK-BACK
FLO U N D ER /
MUD DAB
PLAICE/ROUGH DAB
in d e ep er areas along G eorges Bank.

Averages 2 4 inches and 3 - 4 pounds,
w ith 4 - to 10-ou nce fille ts . Ligh t, s lig h tly
sw e et, d e lic a te fle s h
Found inshore du rin g w in te r m onths,
m o s tly in New York, M assa chu setts, and
Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
Rhode Island. Averages I V 2-2 pounds.

C olor ranges fro m re d d ish -b ro w n to deep
olive green; w h ite underside. D iam ond
shape. D elicate, m ild ly fla v o rfu l fle sh
Found on bo th sides o f th e A tla n tic ;
called European, Irish, Am erican, or
Baking, poaching, sauteing, steam ing
Canadian plaice depending on where it is

found; m em ber o f flo u n d e r fa m ily. Sm all
fla t fish; 1 - 3 pounds average size. Firm,
sweet, lean flesh ; considered good q u a lity
YELLO W TAIL
FLOUNDER
Found p rim a rily fro m L a b ra d o r to Rhode

Island, can be as fa r sou th as V irg in ia .
Averages 1 - 2 pounds. O live brow n w ith
ru s ty spots; ye llo w ta il; c o lo r m irro rs th e
ocean flo o r, p ro v id in g p ro te c tio n fro m
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
p re d a to rs . Lean, fla k y , sw e e t fle sh

LEMON SOLE
A w in te r flo u n d e r. M in im um o f 3V2
pounds, w ith 8-o un ce fille ts . W hite,

som e w h at firm , m ild ly sw e e t fle s h
ROCK SOLE
Found fro m th e B ering Sea to C a lifo rn ia

and as fa r w e s t as Japan. Averages less
than 5 pounds. Firm , cream y w h ite fle s h

PETRALE/PETRALE
SOLE
REX SOLE
Found in th e P a cific Ocean fro m
Poaching, sau tein g
A laska to M exico; th e m o s t im p o rta n t

co m m e rcia l W est C oast species. Sold
w h ole o r w ith head, ta il, and p igm e nted
skin rem oved. Averages 6 - 7 pounds.
Firm , w h ite fle sh ; s im ila r in e a tin g
q u a litie s to lem on sole
Found in cold w a te rs near and around
A laska. Averages 1 - 2 pounds. E longated
body. D e lica te , cream y, w h ite , som e w h at
s o ft fle sh ; d is tin c t in fla v o r
Poaching, sau tein g
ch a p te r 7 F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
103
Flat Fish, continued

CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
DOVER SOLE
Found only in European w a te rs. Pale

gray to brow n. Sm all, com p resse d head;
ve ry sm all eyes; e lon gate d body. Flesh is
Baking, b ro ilin g , poaching, sauteing,

ste a m in g
f a t tie r and fir m e r than o th e r m em bers

o f th e f la t fis h fa m ily. Dover sole is
ty p ic a lly served whole.
HALIBUT
Found in th e A tla n tic fro m G reenland to

so u th e rn New Jersey; m ust be labeled
P a cific h a lib u t if fro m P a cific Ocean. Can
be as large as 7 0 0 pounds, com m only
Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g ,

poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
1 5 -3 0 pounds. Gray skin w ith w h ite

m o ttlin g . Dense, sn o w -w h ite fle sh ; fin e
te x tu re ; m ild ta s te ; h ig h e st fa t c o n te n t
o f all lo w -a c tiv ity f la t fis h
left-eyed
FLU K E /S U M M E R
FLOUNDER
Found in co a sta l w a te rs fro m th e G ulf

o f M aine to th e Carolinas. Large m outh
exte n d s below and beyond its eyes.
W hite, fla k y fle sh ; d e lic a te fla v o r and
te x tu re
TURBOT
Found in th e N o rth Sea and European

N o rth A tla n tic , tho ugh m o s tly fa rm e d in
Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g ,

poaching, steam ing, sau tein g
th e Iberian Peninsula and Chile. Averages

3 - 6 pounds. D e lica te fla v o r; firm te x tu re
tail (caudal tin)
backbone
dorsal tin
Flat fish skeletal structure
104
operculum (gill co1
The character
sides of head; swim in upright position; firm gill plate;

low, medium, or high activity.
FISH
low-activity round fish
low-activity round fish
istics of round fish include the following: eyes on both
HADDOCK
PO LLO CK
WHITE HAKE
c h a p te r 7 F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
105
Low-Activity Round Fish

CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COD
S a ltw a te r fis h . P rovides w e ig h ty fille ts

w ith good s h e lf life . T hick, w h ite flesh ;
S hallow poaching, baking, pan fry in g ,
m ild fla v o r; roe, cheeks, and chins are

d e lica cie s in som e cu ltu re s
and d rie d
S a ltw a te r fish ; m em ber o f th e cod

fa m ily . Averages 2 - 5 pounds; s im ila r to
Poaching, baking, sauteing, pan

fry in g . S alte d and sm oked
HADDOCK
deep fry in g . Smoked, cured, salted,
cod, b u t sm a lle r m axim um size. A vaila ble

drawn o r as f ille ts and stea ks (when
buying fille ts , skin should be le ft on to
d is tin g u is h fro m A tla n tic cod). Low fa t;
firm te x tu re , m ild fla v o r
W HITE HAKE
S a ltw a te r fish ; m em ber o f th e cod
Pan fry in g , baking, sm oking
fa m ily . Averages 3 - 1 0 pounds, tho ugh

can be as large as 30 pounds. Com m only
sold w ith o u t th e head. S o ft flesh ;
s w e e te r and m ore fla v o rfu l than o th e r
m em bers o f th e cod fa m ily
POLLOCK
W O LFF IS H
S a ltw a te r fis h ; m em ber o f th e cod

fa m ily . Averages 4 - 1 0 pounds. M o s tly
sold as skin less fille ts . Reduced sh e lf
life because o f high er o il co n te n t. D arker
fle sh ; s tro n g e r and m ore d is tin c t fla v o r
tha n o th e r m em bers o f th e cod fa m ily
Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,

b ro ilin g , sm oking
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e N o rth A tla n tic
S hallow poaching, sauteing, pan

fry in g
(New England and Iceland); m em ber o f

th e c a tfis h fa m ily . Large head, p o w e rfu l
ja w s, and sharp canine te e th ; fe e d s on
m ollusks, clams, and w helks. Can be
up to 40 pounds. W hite, firm fle s h o f
va ryin g f a t c o n te n t
106
medium-activity round fish
ch a p te r 7 F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
Medium-Activity Round Fish

NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
W EAKFISH
S a ltw a te r fis h . Averages 2 - 6 pounds.

S w eet, o ff-w h ite d e lic a te fle s h

CULINARY USES
b ro ilin g , steam ing. Used to make
fo rc e m e a ts
W ALLEYED PIKE
F re sh w a te r fish . Spiny fin n e d . Averages

I V 2-3 pounds. M ild fla v o r; low f a t
co n te n t; firm te x tu re
BLACK SEA BASS
STRIPED BASS
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m New England to

F lorida. Averages 1 - 3 pounds. A vailable
drawn w h ole o r in fille ts . W hite, firm
fle sh ; d e lic a te te x tu re
Averages 2 - 1 5 pounds, can reach up to
50 pounds. Firm, fla v o rfu l fle sh ; large
fla k e
HYBRID B A SS/H YBR ID

STRIPED BASS
RED SNAPPER
B ro ilin g , sauteing, poaching,

steam ing, baking, stew ing . Used to
make fo rc e m e a ts , in soups
Poaching, baking, deep fry in g ,
sau tein g. C om m only served whole,
using ta b le s id e p re s e n ta tio n
B roilin g, g rillin g , poaching, baking,

deep fry in g , sauteing. Pickled;
e x tre m e ly v e rs a tile
F arm -raised fis h th a t h it th e m a rk e t in

th e 1 9 8 0 s; cross be tw ee n w h ite bass
and s trip e d bass. Averages 1 -2 pounds.
Flesh cooks v e ry w h ite ; som ew hat
e a rth y fla v o r
B roilin g, g rillin g , poaching, baking,

deep fry in g , sauteing. Pickled;
Found in th e G u lf o f M exico and ad ja cent

b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
A tla n tic w a te rs. R eef fis h ; buy a t less

than 5 pounds because o f cig ua te ra
to xin . D orsal red skin becom es lig h t red
e x tre m e ly v e rs a tile
or p ink on belly; red eyes; long p e cto ra l

fin s . Firm te x tu re
YELLO W TAIL SNAPPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish . Averages 1 -2

pounds, can be as large as 6 pounds;
buy at less than 5 pounds because o f
cig u a te ra to x in . G re e n ish -ye llo w s trip e

b ro ilin g , stea m ing
runs le n g th o f body. S lig h tly sw eet,

w h ite , fin e , fla k y fle sh ; good e a tin g fis h
SILK SNAPPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than

5 pounds because o f cig ua te ra to xin .
R e dd ish-p ink skin, ye llo w underside;
ye llo w eyes. S im ila r to red snapper;
ty p ic a lly less expensive

VERM ILIO N SN APP ER /

BEELINER/CARIBBEAN
S a ltw a te r re e f fish . Averages 2 pounds,

b u t can be as large as 5 o r 6 pounds;
buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f
cig u a te ra to xin . Pale red along its side.
O fte n s u b s titu te d f o r red snapper,
tho ugh sm aller, co m m e rcia lly less
valuable, and less fla v o rfu l
SNAPPER
108
DESCRIPTION
RED GROUPER

5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to x in .
R e dd ish-b row n color; b lo tch e s on the
CULINARY USES
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing,
deep fry in g . In chow ders
skin; black d o ts around th e eyes. Few, if

any, pin bones. Im p o rta n t com m e rcial
catch. S w eet, w h ite fle sh
BLACK GROUPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fis h , in deep w a te rs;
buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f

cig u a te ra to x in . B la ckish -b ro w n color.
Few, if any, pin bones. S w eet, o ff-w h ite

fle s h
GAG GROUPER

5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to xin .

L ig h t brow n w ith da rk brow n le o p a rd

like spo ts. Few, if any, pin bones. S w eet,
w h ite fle sh
TILEFISH
S a ltw a te r fish ; fo u n d along th e e n tire

East Coast. Averages 6 - 8 pounds, can be
NAME(S)
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , deep

fry in g , pan fry in g
as large as 30 pounds. A vaila ble w hole

and drawn, o r as fille ts . C o lo rfu l body.
B ass-like q u a litie s ; firm y e t te n d e r fle s h
c h a p t e r y F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
109
high-activity round fish
OFF)
FA RM -R AISED KING SALM O N

(PACIFIC S ALM O N )
ATLANTIC SALM O N
ARCTIC CHAR
RAINBOW TROUT
SPANISH M A C K ER EL
ATLANTIC M A C K ER EL
POMPANO
110

AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
ATLANTIC SALM O N
A vaila ble ye a r-ro u n d th ro u g h o u t th e U n ite d

S ta te s; because o f fa rm in g , no w ild catch
is co m m e rc ia lly available. Averages 6 -1 2
pounds. Deep pink fle sh ; high fa t; shiny and
S m oking, poaching, baking,

b ro ilin g , steam ing, g rillin g . In dips,
soups, sushi, and sashim i
m o is t
KING/PACIFIC SALMO N
COHO/SILVER SALM O N
Found fro m th e P a cific N o rth w e s t to A laska.

Ranges fro m 1 6 -2 0 pounds, la rg e s t o f
co m m e rcia l salm on. W ide bodied. M edium
to da rk red fle s h
Found th ro u g h o u t th e P a cific. S im ila r in
ta s te and te x tu re to A tla n tic salm on
S m oking, poaching, baking,

b ro ilin g , steam ing, g rillin g . In dips
and soups
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g ,

stea m ing , g rillin g , sm oking. In
High-Activity Round Fish
dips and soups

SO CKEYE/RED SALMO N
BROOK TROUT
Found in A laskan and B ritis h C olum bian

rive rs. Averages 5 - 7 pounds. G liste n in g
s ilv e r skin. D ark red fle sh
Poaching, baking, b ro iling ,

stea m ing , g rillin g , sm oking. In
F re s h w a te r fis h ; fo u n d in th e n o rth e a s te rn
U n ite d S ta te s and ea ste rn Canada; also
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g ,

g rillin g , stea m ing . S tu ffe d
dips, soups, sushi, and sashim i;

ideal f o r canning
fa rm raised. Averages 6 - 1 0 ounces. Dark,

o live -g re e n skin; cre a m -co lo re d spo ts.
D e lica te , b u tte ry fle s h
RAINBO W TR O U T
F re s h w a te r fis h ; fa rm raised. Averages

1 0 -1 4 ounces. G enerally sold head on. Dark
sp o ts on a lig h te r background. Firm , o f f -

g rillin g , steam ing. S tu ffe d
w h ite fle s h w ith m ild fla v o r

STEELHEAD TROUT
A nadrom ous species o f ra in b o w tr o u t; fa rm

raised in th e U n ite d S ta te s and Canada.
Averages less tha n 12 pounds. S im ila r

g rillin g , steam ing. S tu ffe d
m arkings to ra in b o w tro u t. Taste, te x tu re ,

and c o lo r s im ila r to A tla n tic salm on
ARCTIC CHAR
A nadrom ous; fo u n d in Europe, Canada,

and A laska; also fa rm raised. Averages 2 - 8
pounds. D ark red to rose o r w h ite fle sh ;
som e co n sid e r it su p e rio r to salm on

g rillin g , stea m ing . S tu ffe d
ALBACO RE/TO M BO
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m A tla n tic and P a cific

w a te rs. Valuable c o m m o d ity in U.S. canning
in d u s try , sold as "w h ite tuna. A verages 1 0 30 pounds. L ig h t red to pink fle sh ; o ff- w h ite
when cooked. M ild fla v o r
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
c h a p te r 7 F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
ill
H igh-Activity Round Fish, continued

NAME(S)
BIGEYE T U N A /A H I-B
BLUEFIN TUNA
DESCRIPTION

AND CULINARY USES
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l, te m p e ra te
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing.
w a te rs . Ranges fro m 2 0 - 1 0 0 pounds. Rich,

da rk fle s h
M uch so u g h t a fte r f o r sushi and

sashim i
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e A tla n tic and the

G u lf o f M exico. A m ong th e la rg e s t o f fish,
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing.

The m o s t sou gh t a fte r f o r sushi
and sashim i (c o n s is te n tly high
prices; m o s t is e xp o rte d )
can w eigh up to 1 ,5 0 0 pounds. D ark red to

re d d is h -b ro w n fle sh ; v e ry d is tin c t fla v o r
when cooked
YELLO W FIN TU N A /A H I
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l and
s u b tro p ic a l w a te rs. W id e ly a va ila ble in the

U n ite d S ta te s; less expensive than bigeye
and b lu e fin . Y ellow s trip e s down side and
on d o rsa l and anal fin s . Flesh d a rk e r than
alba core, lig h te r than b lu e fin
SKIPJACK T U N A /A K U
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e C e ntral P a cific and

Hawaii. O fte n canned, sold as "lig h t tu n a ;
o fte n m a rke te d fro ze n . Averages 7 - 1 2
pounds. S im ila r in c o lo r to y e llo w fin

SPANISH MACKEREL
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m V irg in ia to th e G u lf o f

M exico in s p rin g and w in te r. Averages 2 - 4
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing,

sm oking
pounds. B rig h t y e llo w -g o ld s p o ts along its

sides. Lean, d e lic a te fle s h
ATLANTIC MACKEREL
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e N o rth A tla n tic . B est

purchased in th e fa ll. Averages 1 -2 pounds.
S m o o th skin w ith v ib ra n t hues o f blue and
silver. O ily, da rk fle sh ; pung en t fla v o r

sm oking
KING MACKEREL
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m F lo rid a in w in te r
B roilin g, g rillin g , sm oking
m onths. Averages 1 0 - 2 0 pounds. C ontains

m ore f a t than Spanish m ackerel; w ell
fla v o re d
POMPANO
S a ltw a te r fish; fro m the Carolinas to Florida

and the G ulf o f M exico; m em ber o f the Jack
fam ily. Very expensive; highly regarded fish.
Averages 1 -2 pounds. Delicate, beige flesh,
tu rn s w h ite when cooked; com plex flavo r;
medium fa t con tent
Poaching, baking, b ro iling , g rillin g ,

fry in g , steam ing, en p a p illo te
PERMIT
S a ltw a te r fis h ; s im ila r to pom pano o n ly in

c o lo r and geography; m em ber o f th e Jack
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,

fry in g , ste a m in g
fa m ily . Averages 1 0 -2 0 pounds, can be as

large as 50 pounds. Drier, m ore gra n u la r
fle s h than pom pano (though if o ffe re d in the
same w e ig h t range, fle s h can be sim ila r)
112
GREATER AMBERJACK
n c c rm rv r, ,
DESCRIPTION

AND CULINARY USES
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m G u lf o f M exico, W est
Baking, b ro ilin g , sauteing,
A fric a , and th e M e d ite rra n e a n ; m em b er o f
sm oking
th e Jack fa m ily . Averages 1 0 -4 0 pounds.

Dark, o ily fle sh ; s tro n g fla v o r
LESSER AM BERJACK
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to th e
Baking, b ro ilin g , sauteing,
G u lf o f M exico and B razil; m em ber o f th e

Jack fa m ily . W eighs less tha n 8 pounds.
L ig h te r fle s h tha n g re a te r am berjack;
sm oking
s im ila r in q u a lity
MAHI M A H I/
DOLPHINFISH
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l

w a te rs. Ranges fro m 4 - 1 5 pounds; can be
as large as 50 pounds. Flesh is pink to lig h t
tan, tu rn in g beige to o ff- w h ite when cooked;
dense, sw eet, m o ist, and d e lic a te fle s h , w ith
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , pan

fry in g , sau tein g
NAME(S)
a large fla k e
BLUEFISH
Baking, b ro ilin g
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e A tla n tic coast.

Averages 4 - 1 0 pounds. Dark, oily, s tro n g ly
fla v o re d fle sh ; sm a lle r sizes have a m ild e r
fla v o r; fin e te x tu re d
SHAD
Anadrom ous; fro m F lorida to S t. Law rence

River. Fem ale (roe shad) averages 4 - 5
pounds; m ale is sm aller. O ff-w h ite , sw e et
fle sh ; high f a t co n te n t. Roe is co n sid e re d a

sm oking
de lica cy
backbone
dorsal fin
operculum
(gill cover)
tail (caudal fin)
pectoral fin
anal fin
vent
ribs
pin bones
fin
Round fish skeletal structure
113
nonbony fish
STURGEON (HEAD OFF)
11 4
Nonbony Fish
NAME(S)
SWORDFISH
DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m tro p ic a l, te m p e ra te
w a te rs and th e N o rth A tla n tic . S m ooth

skin, firm , dense fle sh . A vaila ble
!= b
is i
skin le ss and headless, in f ille t s or

stea ks. D is tin c tly fla v o re d
STURG EO N/
ATLANTIC STURG EO N/
W HITE STURGEON
P
o
A na dro m ous fis h . A tla n tic sturge on ,

fro m n o rth e rn F lo rid a to S t. Law rence
River, averages 60 to 8 0 pounds; w h ite
sturge on , fo u n d fro m C a lifo rn ia to
A laska and fa rm raised, averages 1 0 -1 5
pounds. H ighly re g ard ed f o r th e ir eggs,
fin e caviar. Firm , h ig h -fa t fle s h ; d e lic a te
13-
Baking, braised, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,

sau tein g, sm oking
fla v o r
M O N K F IS H /
ANGLERFISH
S a ltw a te r fis h . Averages 1 5 - 5 0 pounds,

w ith 2 - to 6-p ou nd fille ts . C om m only
sold as ta ils and fille ts ; low y ie ld when
sold head on. Firm , m ild w h ite fle s h
MAKOSHARK
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m w arm , te m p e ra te ,

and tro p ic a l w a te rs. Ranges fro m
3 0 - 1 0 0 pounds. One o f th e m o s t highly
reg ard ed species o f shark
DOG FISH/CAPE SHARK
S a ltw a te r fish . Averages 3 - 5 pounds.

S m oo th skin; bro w n ish o r gray to p s id e ;
w h ite underside; w h ite /g ra y s p o ts along
th e side o f th e body. S w e e t pink to
w h ite , firm fle s h
THRESHER SHARK
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m w arm , te m p e ra te ,

and tro p ic a l w a te rs. Averages 3 0 - 5 0
pounds. E asily id e n tifia b le by its
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g ,

sau tein g, pan fry in g . Livers are
po p u la r in Japan

sau tein g. S hark fin is po p u la r in Hong
Kong and Canton, China

fry in g , s a u te in g

sau tein g. Shark fin is p o p u la r in Hong
Kong and China
e x tre m e ly e lo n g a te d fin . S w e et pink

fle s h
SKATE/RAY
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fo u n d in w a te rs
th ro u g h o u t th e U n ite d S ta te s . F la t
c re a tu re s re la te d to th e shark. Fin is
e d ib le p a rt o f th e fish , called wings,"
p ro d u cin g 2 fille ts ; up pe r f ille t is
g e n e ra lly th ic k e r than lo w er one. W hite,
sw e et, fir m fle sh ; e x c e lle n t e a tin g fis h
Poaching, baking, fry in g , sau tein g
115
Other Fish
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
EEL
A na dro m ous fis h . A m erican eel is

s lig h tly sm a lle r European eel; fe m a le s
are la rg e r than m ales; fa rm raised in
China. S na ke-like shape. A vaila ble alive

CULINARY USES
B ro ilin g , fry in g , stew ing . E xcelle nt
sm oked
o r w hole; b e s t q u a lity ju s t b e fo re jo u rn e y
to spawn; H ig h -fa t, fir m fle s h
AM ERICAN CATFISH
F re s h w a te r fis h ; fo u n d m o s tly in
so u th e rn regions, though v a s t m a jo rity
is fa rm raised. C om m only sold headless

steam ing, stew ing , deep fry in g , pan
fry in g , sm oking
and skinless. F ille ts average 6 - 1 2

ounces. L o w -fa t, fir m fle sh ; m ild fla v o r
ANCHOVY
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m C a lifo rn ia , S outh

A m erica, th e M e d ite rra n e a n , and Europe;
over 20 species are recognized as
anchovies. B e st less than 4 inches in
length. S ilv e r skin. S o ft, fla v o r fu l fle s h
SARDINE
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m Spain, Portugal,

and Ita ly. S ardines are recognized as a
species o f sm all herring. A vaila ble w hole
o r dressed; b e s t less tha n 7 inches in
length. S ilv e ry skin. D e lica te f a t t y fle s h
JOHN DORY/ST. PETER'S

FISH (IN EUROPE)
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m th e ea stern

A tla n tic , Nova S cotia, the
Fresh w hole: deep fry in g , pan fry in g ,

sm oking, m a rin a tin g . A lso m arke te d
s a lt-cu re d , canned (packed in oil),
dried . Used as a fla v o rin g a d d itiv e
and garnish
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , deep fry in g ,
m a rin a tin g . A lso m a rke te d salted,
sm oked, o r canned
Poaching, g rillin g , sau tein g
M e d ite rra n e a n . B lack sp o ts w ith a

go ld en halo on each side o f body. Firm ,
b rig h t w h ite fle sh ; d e lic a te ly m ild fla v o r;
fin e fla k e
T IL A P IA /M U D FISH
N a tive to A fric a ; fa rm e d around the

w o rld . Four to 18 inches long; m a rke te d
around 1 to 2 pounds. H yb rid ize d to
achieve red, black, o r go ld en skin;
d is tin g u is h e d by th e in te rru p tio n along
its la te ra l line. O ff-w h ite to p in k fle sh ;
ve ry m ild fla v o r

ste a m in g
S h e llfish are a q ua tic anim als p ro te c te d by some s o rt

o f carapace (shell). Based on s k e le ta l s tru c tu re , the y
are segm ented in to fo u r d is tin c t cate gories: univalves
(sin gle -she lle d m ollusks), bivalves (m ollusks w ith tw o
shells jo in e d by a hinge), crustaceans (jo in te d e x te rio r
ske le to n s or shells), and cephalopods (m ollusks w ith
te n ta c le s a tta ch e d d ire c tly to th e head).
M A R K E T F OR MS
S h e llfish are ava ila ble fre s h and fro z e n in variou s fo rm s.
Fresh sh e llfis h are ava ila ble live, shucked as ta ils , cock
ta il claws, and legs and claws. Frozen sh e llfis h are also
available shucked as ta ils , c o c k ta il claws, and legs and
claws.
Shucking is th e rem oval o f a m o llu s k s m eat fro m
th e shell; th e shucked m a rke t fo rm is sold as m eat only,
along w ith n a tu ra l ju ic e s known as liquor. M ollusks
such as o yste rs, clam s, and m ussels may be available
shucked. S callops are nearly alw ays sold shucked, a l
though th e re is a g ro w in g m a rk e t f o r scallops th a t are
live and on th e h a lf-s h e ll w ith roe.
Q U A L I T Y I N D I C AT OR S
W hen purchasing live sh e llfish , look f o r signs o f m ove
shellfish
shellfish
m ent. L o b ste rs and crabs should move about. Clams,
mussels, and o y s te rs should be tig h tly closed, but as
th e y age, th e y w ill begin to open, and should close when
tou ched . Any shells th a t do not snap shut when tap ped
should be discarded; th is means th a t th e fis h are dead.
M olluska n s h e llfis h should have a sweet, sea-like aroma.
STORAGE
Crabs, lo b ste rs, and o th e r live sh e llfis h should be
packed in seaweed o r dam p paper upon delivery. If a
lo b s te r ta n k is n o t available, th e y can be sto re d d ire c tly
in th e ir sh ip p in g c o n ta in e rs o r in p e rfo ra te d pans a t 39
to 4 5 F /4 to 7C u n til th e y are to be prepared. Do not
allow lo b s te rs or crabs to come in to d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith
fre s h w a te r, as it w ill k ill them .
Clams, m ussels, and o yste rs purchased in the shell
should be s to re d in th e bag in w hich th e y w ere d e liv
ered o r in p e rfo ra te d pans. They should n o t be iced, but
should be s to re d a t a te m p e ra tu re betw een 35 and
4 0 F /2 and 4C. The bag should be closed tig h tly and
lig h tly w e ig h te d to keep th e sh e llfis h fro m opening.
c h a p te r 7 FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
117
molluskan shellfish
BELON O YS TER S
CH ER RYSTO N E C LA M S
TO PN ECK C LA M S
KUM AM OTO O YS TER S
CO CKLE C LA M S
RA Z O R C LA M S
S EA URCHINS
F A N N Y BAY O YSTER S
G EO DUCK CLAM
S EA S C A LLO P S
M A LPE Q U E O YSTER S
BAY S C A LLO P S
GREEN M U S S ELS
BLU E M U S S E L S
FLORIDA O YSTER S
118
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION

AND CULINARY USES
G a stro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d along th e P a cific
G rillin g , sauteing. M a rin a te d
univalves
ABALONE
coast; also fa rm raised in C a lifo rn ia , Chile,

and Japan. F arm -raised averages 3 inches in
diam e te r. Encased in side round, oval shell.
A vaila ble w h ole o r in stea ks; fre s h o r fro z e n
SEA U R CHIN/UN I
Found in oceans around th e w o rld ; o fte n

gro up ed w ith m o llu sks f o r m a rke tin g , b u t
are tru e echinoderm s. Hard, da rk pu rp le shell
Baking. In sushi; as fla v o rin g in
molluskan shellfish
Molluskan Shellfish
sauces
covered w ith spines. The green v a rie ty is

th e m o s t popular. H a rve ste d f o r in te rn a l roe
(uni), w hich ranges fro m b rig h t red to orange
to ye llo w in co lo r; fir m te x tu re th a t m e lts
in you r m outh; sw e e t fla v o r; co n sid ered a
de lica cy
CONCH/SCUNGILLI
G a stro p o d m ollusk; indigenous to th e

Caribbean and th e F lorida Keys, also fa rm
raised in th e Caribbean and F lorida. A vaila ble
o u t o f shell o r ground. Conch fro m w arm
In salads, ceviche, chowders,

f r it t e r s
w a te r is large and sw e et. S cu n g illi fro m cold

w a te r is sm all and n o t as sw e et
W H ELK/C H AN N EL
W HELK
G astro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te r

along East C oast fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to
n o rth e rn F lorida; large sea snail used m ainly
in Europe and Korea. A vaila ble fre s h or
M a rin a te d ; in salads and ceviche
cooked, pre se rve d in vinegar, and canned

LAND SNAIL/ESCARG OT
G a stro p o d m ollusk; ab un da nt in m o s t p a rts

o f th e w o rld ; fa rm raised in C a lifo rn ia . A ir
Baking, b o ilin g , b ro ilin g
b re a th in g . A vaila ble fre s h o r canned

PERIW INKLE
G a stro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d along A tla n tic

coa sts o f Europe and N o rth A m erica,
e sp e cia lly New England. S m ooth, conical
B oiling, sau tein g
s p ira l shell w ith 4 w h o rls; o u te r she ll is

gray to d a rk green w ith red dish bands th a t
e n circle it
c h a p te r 7 F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
119
Molluskan Shellfish, continued

NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION

AND CULINARY USES
bivalves
Q U AH O G C LA M
RAZO R/ATLANTIC
JAC KKN IFEC LAM
H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fro m cold n o rth e rn

w a te rs. Sizes include (s m a lle s t to la rg e st)
little n e c k , to p n e ck, c h e rrysto n e , chowder.
Sold as co u n t per 60 -p o u n d bushel
Baking, steam ing, stew ing. In

chow der; sm a lle r sizes eaten on
th e h a lf-s h e ll
H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te rs
Baking, stea m ing , stew ing , deep
along th e East Coast. Shaped like a razor

w ith sharp edges. D iffic u lt to s to re o u t o f
fry in g . In f r it te r s
w a te r; q u ickly dehyd rates, le avin g shells dry

and b r ittle
SO FT-SH ELLED /
IPSW ICH/HORSE C L A M /
STEAMER
GEODUCK CLAM
S o ft-s h e lle d clam; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te rs

in th e Chesapeake, M aine, M a ssa ch u se tts,
S team ing, bre a d in g and deep

fry in g
and e n tire P a cific coast. Le ng th y gray, s o ft,

b r itt le shell. Neck o r siphon covered by th in
skin. Can be sandy unless de p u ra te d . Sw eet
fla v o r
H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fo u n d along th e W est
C oast, also fa rm raised in th e P a cific
N o rth w e s t. Can reach 9 inches in length
Baking, stea m ing , sauteing. In

f r it te r s , chowder, sushi, and
ceviche
and 10 pounds, tho ugh m o st are m a rke te d

a t 3 - 4 pounds; la rg e s t clam fo u n d in N o rth
A m erica. G ra yish -w h ite , rin ge d shell. Neck is
e x c e p tio n a lly long in re la tio n to shell
M A N ILA /W E S T COAST
LITTLE N E C K C LA M
120
H a rd -sh e lle d clam ; fo u n d in th e P acific.
Baking, steam ing. In stew s
S lig h tly elon gate d, g ra y is h -w h ite shell w ith

d a rk black m arkings. Can g ro w up to 3 inches
in le ng th
COCKLE
C om m ercially valuable in Asia, the U nited

S tates, and Europe; large reso urce fro m
B ritis h Colum bia, G reenland, and F lorida.
Sm all; w h ite to green shell
Baking, steam ing; to o sm all to

be used shucked
BLUE M USSEL
Found in te m p e ra te w a te rs o f th e n o rth e rn
and so u th e rn hem ispheres; fa rm raised in
M aine, Nova S cotia , Prince Edw ard Island,
and Spain. Averages 2 - 3 inches long. Dark
blue shell. S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r
GREEN M USSEL
Found in coa stal, tro p ic a l w a te rs o f the

In d o -P a c ific region; also fa rm raised in
New Zealand. A vaila ble live, h a lf-s h e ll, and
shucked. Averages 3 - 4 inches long. Green
shell. S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r
DESCRIPTION
EAST COAST OYSTER
From th e N o rth e a s t, V irg in ia , and G ulf

coasts. A vaila ble w ild and fa rm raised;
grow n w h ile subm erged u n d e rw a te r. M o s t
com m o nly sold o y s te r in th e U n ite d S ta te s.
S m oo th h a lf-s h e ll; shell on to p and b o tto m .
V a rie tie s include M alpeque, C hincoteague,
Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g ,

sau tein g, steam ing, roa sting .
On th e to p h a lf-sh e ll. In soups,
stew s, s tu ffin g s , a p p e tize rs
and F lorida
JAPANESE/W EST COAST
Grown u n d e rw a te r a t high tid e and o u t o f
OYSTER
w a te r a t low tid e . S callo ped shell. K um am oto

is a p o p u la r v a rie ty
EUROPEAN FLAT
OYSTER
PACIFIC /O LYM PIA

OYSTER
BAY/CAPE COD/LONG
ISLAND SCALLOP

sauteing, steam ing. On th e h a lf
shell. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s ,
a p p e tize rs
N a tive to Europe; seen o f f c o a s t o f M aine.

A vaila ble w ild and fa rm raised. Round, f la t

sau tein g, steam ing, roa sting .
shell. P rized f o r its re m a rka b le fla v o r and

te x tu re . V a rie tie s include Belon, M arennes,
Belon o y s te rs should n o t be
cooked. On th e h a lf-sh e ll.
and H e lfo rd
In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s ,

a p p e tize rs
N a tive W est C o ast oyste r. Sm all; less tha n 3

inches in d ia m e te r; less cupped tha n ea ste rn

sauteing, steam ing. On h a lf
v a rie tie s . D is tin c t m in eral a fte rta s te
shell. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s ,

a p p e tize rs
Found fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to N o rth

C arolina. S m all com pared to sea v a rie ty . Bay
h a rve stin g in fa ll and w in te r; hand raking;
shucked on shore. S old fre s h (lim ite d live
molluskan shellfish

AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching,

stew ing , sau tein g
m a rke t), n o t fro ze n . C ream y iv o ry to pink.

Very sw eet; O fte n con sid ered th e be st
ta s tin g
SEA SC ALLO P/DIVER
SCALLOP
Found fro m th e G u lf o f M aine to N o rth

Carolina; also fa rm raised (lim ite d m arke t).

C om m only fro ze n ; fre s h a va ila ble year

round. Can be up to 8 inches in diam e te r.
Brow n shell. "D ive r sca llo p " in d ic a te s hand
h a rvestin g; m ore m o is tu re and less g r it than
th o se dredged; m ore u n ifo rm in size. S w eet,
m o is t fle sh , n o t as te n d e r as bay v a rie ty
CALICO SCALLOP
Found fro m C arolinas to S ou th A m erica, on

A tla n tic and G u lf o f M exico coasts. A vaila ble
yea r-rou nd. Sm all, less tha n 3 inches. Flesh is
d a rk e r than bay v a rie tie s ; fla v o r and te x tu re

in fe rio r to bay v a rie tie s
121
cephalopods
n
a>
Id
t r
Cephalopods
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
SQ U ID /C ALAM AR I
In v e rte b ra te ; fo u n d along th e East and

W est Coasts. Changes c o lo r o f skin fo r
CULINARY USES
p ro te c tio n ; ink used to con fuse p re d a to r.

A verages 7 inches in length. A vaila ble
fre s h , cleaned, in rings o r tub es, and fro ze n .
S lig h tly firm te x tu re when cooked p ro p e rly;
Baking, bo iling , b ro ilin g , deep

fry in g , pan fry in g , s tir-fry in g ,
sauteing. Ink used to co lo r pasta
and rice
o
id
o
CL
GO
m ild, sw e e t fla v o r
OCTOPUS
Found in shallow and deep w a te rs o f

C a lifo rn ia and A laska; also A tla n tic and
A rc tic regions fro m th e English Channel to
Berm uda. Ranges in size fro m a fe w ounces
(baby) to over 1 0 0 pounds. S o ft bodied;
bloo d is blue; eyes on b o th sides o f head; 8
arm s, w ith 2 row s o f su ctio n cups on each.
M ild fla vo r, te n d e r te x tu re when cooked
B oiling. W hen sm all, deep fry in g ,

g rillin g , sau tein g
p ro p e rly
CUTTLEFISH
Found in shallow co a sta l w a te rs fro m

Thailand, China, India, Spain, and P ortu gal.
E ig ht arm s, 2 long, n a rrow te n ta c le s . L ig h t
B oiling, steam ing, s tir-fry in g . In

sushi, sashim i
brow n w ith ze b ra -like s trip e s . S w eet, v e ry

te n d e r when cooked p ro p e rly ; b rig h t w h ite
fle s h
1 23
crustacean shellfish
124
DESCRIPTION

AND CULINARY USES
M A IN E /N O R T H E R N /
NORTH AM ERICAN
LOBSTER
Found o f f A tla n tic co a st o f n o rth e rn U n ite d

S ta te s, Canada, Europe (though sm aller).
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching,

steam ing, s tir -fry in g
SPIN Y/R O C K LOBSTER
Found o f f F lorida, so u th e rn C a lifo rn ia , New

M exico, A u stra lia , New Zealand, South
A fric a . A ll 10 legs are same size; has no
claws; fle s h is fo u n d in ta il. F irm fle sh , less
Can ta ke 8 years to reach m a rk e t size o f

1 -2 pounds. Flesh is b rig h t w h ite w ith
red dish s tre a ks; firm , sw e et, d e lic a te
Baking, g rillin g , poaching,
steam ing, s tir -fry in g
shellfish
NAME(S)
crustacean
Crustacean Shellfish
sw e e t than A m erican lo b s te r
CRAYFISH/CRAW FISH
Found in fre s h w a te r swam ps, creeks,

bayous; fa rm raised in Louisiana and F lorida;
im p o rte d fro m S o u th e a st Asia. A vaila ble
B oiling, stea m ing
shucked, cooked and picked m eats. Deep

red shells, b rig h t red when cooked. S w eet,
w h ite , firm fle sh
LA N G O U S TIN E/D U BLIN
Found in European, A tla n tic , and
BAY PRAW N/SCAM PI
M e d ite rra n e a n w a te rs ; re la te d to spiny

lo b ste r. S lig h tly sw e e t and fla v o rfu l fle s h
W ARM WATER SHRIMP
Found in tro p ic a l w a te rs; m a jo rity o f U.S.

catch ha rve ste d in South A tla n tic and G ulf
o f M exico. Sold by size co u n t pe r pound.
C la ssifie d by shell co lo r: p ink (sw eet,
te n d e r); brow n (briny, firm ); w h ite (sw eet,
Poaching, bo iling , steam ing,

b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,

en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing,
stea m ing , stew ing , poaching
m ild). C o lor va rie s w id e ly based on h a b ita t

COLD WATER SHRIMP
Found in th e N o rth A tla n tic and N o rth
P acific. Sold by size co u n t per pound.

C o nsid era bly sm a lle r and s o fte r tha n w arm
en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing,

stea m ing , ste w in g
w a te r v a rie tie s
FRESHWATER SHRIM P
Farm raised in H aw aii and C a lifo rn ia . Sold

by size cou nt per pound. Up to 12 inches
long. Very s o ft, m ild fle s h
TIGER SHRIM P

g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing
Found in th e South P acific, S o u th e a st
A fric a , India; fa rm raised in Asia. Sold by

size co u n t pe r pound. G rayish -bla ck s trip e s
on g ra yish -b lu e shells; shell s trip e s tu rn
b rig h t red when cooked. W h ite fle s h w ith
orange if cooked peeled; red if cooked in the
shell. M ild, briny, s lig h tly bland fla v o r
g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,

ste a m in g
125
Crustacean Shellfish, continued

NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
ROCK S H R IM P /H A R D SHELLED SHRIMP
Found fro m so u th e a s te rn U n ite d S ta te s

to th e G u lf o f M exico. Sold peeled and by
cou nt per pound. F lavo r and te x tu re m ore
like c ra w fish than o th e r shrim p

en p a p illo te , g rillin g , poaching,
sauteing, steam ing, ste w in g
BLUE CRAB
Found fro m Chesapeake Bay to th e G u lf

Coast. M ales have blue claws, fe m a le s have
re d d ish -b lu e ; b o th have long spine on each
Baking, broiling, deep frying ,

grillin g , poaching, sauteing,
AND CULINARY USES
steam ing, stew ing
side o f da rk green shell. Should be alive

ju s t b e fo re cooking. S w eet, ten der, m o ist,
b u tte ry fle s h
SO FT-SH ELLC R AB
Blue crab th a t sheds its shell and is

h a rve ste d when s till s o ft; in season fro m
A p ril to m id -S e p te m b e r, peak in June and
ea rly July. A fte r cleaning, th e e n tire crab
may be eaten
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan

fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing. In sushi
JONAH CRAB
Found fro m Prince Edw ard Island to Maine.

Oval in shape. Has 2 stro n g , b la c k -tip p e d
Baking, bro iling , deep frying ,

claws. S w eet, briny, s lig h tly s trin g y , firm

fle s h
steam ing, stew ing
Found in n o rth e rn P acific, m o st abundant
Baking, broiling, deep frying ,

steam ing, stew ing
K IN G /A LA S K A KING
CRAB
DUNGENESSCRAB
in A laska and Russia. Can reach 10 fe e t and

w eigh 1 0 -1 5 pounds. V a rie tie s include red,
b ro w n /g o ld e n , blue
Found along th e P a cific co a st fro m Alaska
to M exico. Averages l V i - 3 pounds.
R e dd ish-b row n shell, w h itish -o ra n g e
underside. Flesh is m ild and sw e e t
SNO W CRAB
Found in A laska and e a ste rn Canada.

A verages 5 pounds. Oval shaped; 4 pairs
o f sle n d e r legs, 2 s h o rte r claw s in fro n t.
W h ite fle s h tin g e d w ith pink; sw eet, s lig h tly
strin g y , less fla v o rfu l than king crab
126

steam ing, stew ing

steam ing, stew ing
fruit, vegetable,
and fresh herb
identification
Fruits, vegetables, and herbs have always been an important part of
the human diet, but today consumers are more aware than ever of the
important role these foods play in maintaining overall health and fitness
This chapter provides professional chefs with the information they need
to take full advantage of the abundance of fresh produce now a v a ila b ly
including tips on availability, determination of q u a l i t y . ^ ^ ^ H
proper storage, and culinary uses.
general guidelines
SELECTION
F ruits, vegetables, and herbs should be in good con di
tio n , tho ugh w h a t c o n s titu te s a fa vo ra b le appearance
varies fro m one ite m to another. In general, fr u its and
veg etab le s should be fre e o f bruises, m old, brow n or
s o ft spots, and p e st damage; th e y should have colors
and te x tu re s a p p ro p ria te to th e ir typ e ; and any a tta ch e d
leaves should not be w ilte d . F ru its should be plum p, not
shrivele d. S p e cific in fo rm a tio n on p a rtic u la r typ e s o f
produce is given in th e s e ctio n s below.
O rganic fo o d is produced w ith o u t th e use o f m ost

con ven tion al p e sticid e s, s y n th e tic fe rtiliz e rs , sewage
sludge, fe rtiliz e r, bioengineering, o r ionizing rad ia tion.
In o rd e r f o r a p ro d u c t to be labeled "organic," a g o vern
m en t-a p p ro ve d c e r tifie r m ust in sp e ct w here th e fo o d is
grow n and processed to ensure th a t USDA organic s ta n
dards are adhered to.
H yd rop onic crops are grow n in n u trie n t-e n ric h e d
w a te r ra th e r tha n soil. H ydroponic gro w in g ta ke s place
in do ors under re g u la te d te m p e ra tu re and light, so any
g ro w in g season may be d u plicated . Today, hyd rop oni-
PRODUCTION METHODS
F oodservice o p e ra tio n s w ie ld purchasing pow er th a t can
cally grow n le ttu ce s, spinach, herbs, and to m a to e s are

all re a d ily available. A ltho ug h th e y have th e advantage
o f being easy to clean, the se p ro d u cts may have a less
be used to s u p p o rt or discourage s p e c ific a g ric u ltu ra l
pronounced fla v o r than fr u its and veg etab le s grow n in
p ra ctices. You may w ish to con sid er several a g ricu ltu ra l
th e soil.
p ro d u c tio n and tre a tm e n t m etho ds when purchasing

in gre die nts.
AVAILABILITY AND SEASONALITY
A g ric u ltu ra l b io te ch n o lo g y includes a m u ltitu d e o f

s c ie n tific tech niq ue s th a t are used to crea te , im prove,
o r m o d ify plants. For hundreds o f years, s c ie n tis ts have
im proved pla n ts f o r human b e n e fit using con ven tion al
tech niq ue s such as se le ctive breeding. However, con
v e n tio n a l bre e d in g m ethods can be tim e consum ing and
inaccurate. Through g e n e tic engineering, s c ie n tis ts are
now able to is o la te genes fo r a d e sira ble t r a it and tra n s
fe r the m to o th e r organism s, re s u ltin g in g e n e tic a lly
m o d ifie d organism s (GMOs) th a t, fo r exam ple, have
higher re sista n ce to disease.
Irra d ia tio n is a fo o d s a fe ty te ch n o lo g y used to k ill
pa thog en ic organism s and exte nd s h e lf life . S im ila r to
the p a s te u riz a tio n o f m ilk and pressure p ro cessing o f
canned goods, tre a tin g fo o d s w ith io nizing ra d ia tio n
(also known as co ld p a s te u riz a tio n ) can k ill b a cte ria th a t
m ig h t o th e rw ise cause fo o d -b o rn e illness.
S ustainable a g ric u ltu re p e rta in s to a g ric u ltu ra l p ro
d u ction and d is trib u tio n system s th a t fo cu s on p ro v id
128
P rio r to th e increase in a g ric u ltu ra l p ro d u c tio n and d is

trib u tio n tech nolog y, chefs were lim ite d to lo cally grown
seasonal f r u its and vegetables. Though fo o d e s ta b lis h
m ents are no longer bound to buy local produce, it is s till
a fa vo ra b le p ra ctice if and when possible. It is im p o rta n t
to s u p p o rt th e local g row ers. M oreover, so-called bou
tiq u e fa rm e rs m ay have sp e c ia lty produce (such as w ild
le ttu ce s, golden beets, and ye llo w to m a to e s) th a t is not
available th ro u g h large com m e rcial purveyors. A n o th e r
advantage to buying lo ca lly is th a t the fla v o r and co n d i
tio n o f th e fo o d s are o fte n sup erior; lo cally grow n sw eet
corn, a p rico ts, peaches, and s tra w b e rrie s th a t have not
been shipped are ju s t a fe w exam ples. Conversely, th e re
are ite m s th a t ship p a rtic u la rly w ell. Exam ples include
asparagus, head le ttu ce s, bro ccoli, apples, and citru s
fru its .
STORAGE
ing a p ro fita b le fa rm incom e w h ile p ro m o tin g e n viro n
Once th e produce has been received, fo llo w in g certain
m en ta l stew a rdsh ip. Key p ra ctice s include renew ing and
storag e gu id eline s can ensure th a t its q u a lity rem ains
p ro te c tin g soil f e r t ilit y and th e n a tural resource base;
high. M o s t fo o d s e rv ic e e sta b lish m e n ts s to re produce
im p ro vin g the use o f o n -fa rm resources; and m in im izing
fo r no m ore than th re e o r fo u r days, although length o f
th e use o f nonrenew able resources. S ustainable fa rm in g
storag e depends on the businesss volum e, th e available
s triv e s to p ro m o te o p p o rtu n itie s in fa m ily fa rm in g and
storag e fa c ilitie s , and d e liv e ry frequ en cy. It is ideal to
fa rm com m u nitie s. S ustainable pra ctice s include im p le
le t th e pu rveyo r handle th e produce as long as possible,
m e n tin g s ystem s to stem soil erosion and m etho ds such
to help ensure th a t you use the fre s h e s t p ro d u c t pos
as in te g ra te d p e st m anagem ent and fie ld te rra cin g .
sib le and n o t overload you r valuable storag e space.
W ith a fe w exce ptio ns (bananas, to m a to e s, p o
C e rta in fru its , in clu d in g apples, bananas, and m el
ta to e s , d ry onions), rip e fr u its and veg etab le s should
ons, e m it high am ounts o f e th ylen e gas as th e y s it in
be re frig e ra te d . Unless o th e rw is e s p e cifie d , produce
storage. E thylene gas can acce le rate rip en ing in unripe
should be k e p t a t a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 0 to 4 5 F /4 to
fru its , b u t can also p ro m o te spoilage in fr u its and vege
7C, w ith a re la tiv e h u m id ity o f 8 0 to 90 pe rcen t. The
ta b le s th a t are alrea dy ripe. For th is reason, unless they
ideal s itu a tio n is to have a sep ara te w a lk-in o r reach-in
are being used d e lib e ra te ly as a rip en ing agent, high
re frig e ra to r fo r fr u its and vegetables.
e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its should be sto re d separately.
M o s t fr u its and ve g e ta b le s should be k e p t dry, be

cause excess m o is tu re can p ro m o te spoilage. T h ere fore,
m o st produce should n o t be peeled, washed, or trim m e d
When sep ara te sto ra g e space is unavailable, place

e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its in sealed containers.
Some fr u its and veg etab le s, including onions, garlic,
u n til ju s t b e fo re use. The o u te r leaves o f le ttu ce , fo r
lemons, and m elons, give o f f odors th a t can perm eate
exam ple, should be le ft in ta c t; c a rro ts should rem ain
o th e r fo o d s. D airy p ro d u c ts are p a rtic u la rly suscep
unpeeled. The exce ptio ns to th is rule are th e le a fy to p s
tib le to o d o r a b s o rp tio n and should alw ays be sto re d
on ro o t v eg etab le s such as beets, tu rn ip s , ca rro ts , and
away fro m fr u its and veg etab le s. C ertain fru its , such as
radishes. They should be rem oved and e ith e r discarded
apples and che rries, also absorb odors. They to o should
or used im m e d ia te ly, because even a fte r harvesting,
be w ell w ra pp ed or sto re d separately.
th e leaves absorb n u trie n ts fro m th e ro o t and increase

m o istu re loss.
M any f r u its and veg etab le s begin to d e te rio ra te a f

te r th re e o r fo u r days. A lth o u g h c itru s fru its , m ost ro o t
F ru its and ve g e ta b le s th a t need fu rth e r ripening,
veg etab le s, and hard squashes have a longer storage
n o ta b ly peaches and avocados, should be s to re d at
life , m o st re s ta u ra n ts do n o t hold even the se ite m s fo r
room te m p e ra tu re , 65 to 7 0 F /1 8 to 21C. Once the
m ore than tw o to th re e weeks.
produce is ripe, it should be re frig e ra te d so th a t it does

not becom e overripe.
fruits
F ruits are the ovaries th a t surround or contain the seeds
and g rille d pork chops. F ru it is w o nd erful served alone as
o f plants. C ustom arily used in sw eet dishes, fru its are
a refresh in g b re a kfa st or the fina le to a meal. Dried fru its
also excellent w ith savory item s, such as p o ta to latkes
fin d th e ir way in to com potes, s tu ffin g s, and sauces.
vegetables
Vegetables are th e ro o ts, tu b e rs, stem s, leaves, le a f
such as to m a to e s . T heir cu lin a ry a p p lica tio n is th e g u id
stalks, seeds, seedpods, and flo w e r heads o f pla n ts th a t
ing p rin c ip le f o r placin g the m in th is se ctio n ra th e r than
may be s a fe ly eaten. V egetables com m only include a
th e previous one.
num ber o f fo o d s th a t are b o ta n ic a lly c la s s ifie d as fru its ,
herbs
Herbs are th e leaves o f a ro m a tic plants, used p rim a rily
uncooked p re p a ra tio n s, fre s h herbs should be added
to add fla v o r to fo o d s. A rom a is a good in d ic a to r o f q u a l
w e ll in advance o f serving.
ity in b o th fre s h and d rie d herbs. They should have even
In general, herbs should be sto re d lo ose ly w rapped
color, h e a lth y -lo o k in g leaves and stem s, and no w iltin g ,
in dam p p a p e rto w e ls and re frig e ra te d . If desired, place
brow n spo ts, sunburn, or p e s t damage.
th e w ra pp ed herbs in p la s tic bags to help re ta in m ois
Fresh herbs should be m inced or cu t in c h iffo n a d e

as close to service tim e as possible. They are usually
tu re and reduce w iltin g and d is c o lo ra tio n o f leaves. It is

a good idea to label th e herbs, so th e y are easy to locate.
added to a dish to w a rd th e end o f the coo kin g tim e . For
c h a p te r 8 FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
apples
Apples are perhaps Americas favorite fruit.
According to surveys from the International Apple Insti
Apples can be held in climate-controlled cold storage

for many months without significant loss of quality.
tute, apples account for nearly 14 percent of all tree fruits
Dried apples, prepared applesauce, apple juice (bottled
sold in this country. Apples range in color from yellow to
or frozen concentrate), cider, spiced or plain pie fill
green to red, and colors in between. Different varieties
ings, and a host of other prepared items made from
of apples have particular characteristics. Some are best
apples can also be purchased.

The flesh of many apples will begin to turn brown
eaten out of hand, others are considered best for pies

and baking, and still others are selected for their ability
once they are cut open and come in contact with air.
to cook down into a rich, smooth puree for applesauce.
Dousing them in acidulated water (water with a little
For cider, a blend of apples is usually chosen, to give the
lemon juice) will help prevent browning but may not be
finished drink a full, well-balanced flavor.
desirable if a pure apple taste is important. The follow
Select firm apples that have a smooth skin with no
ing table covers a selection of apple varieties.
bruising, though rough brown spots are acceptable.
STAYM AN W INESAP
CAM EO
130
G ALA
MCINTOSH
NORTHERN S P Y
GOLDEN DELICIOUS
CO RTLAN D
G R A N N Y SMITH
H O N EYCRISP
M AC0UN
CO X ORANGE PIPPIN
Apples
VARIETY*
DESCRIPTION
CRABAPPLE
Sm all. Red. Y ellow or w h ite ve ry hard

fle sh . T art
Cooked in sauces, je llie s , jam s,

relishe s
GOLDEN DELICIOUS
Y e llo w ish -gree n skin w ith fre c k lin g .

Crisp, ju icy. S w eet. S tays w h ite a fte r
Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se
S "
in
c u ttin g lo n g e r tha n o th e r v a rie tie s

GRANNY SMITH
MCINTOSH
Green skin. E x tre m e ly crisp, fin e ly

te x tu re d w h ite fle sh . Tart. S tays w h ite
a fte r c u ttin g lo ng er tha n o th e r v a rie tie s
savory p re p a ra tio n s. In pies
P rim a rily red, s tre a k e d w ith ye llo w or
Eaten o u t o f hand. In sauces, cider.
Eaten o u t o f hand. In sw e et and
green. Flesh is v e ry w h ite . S e m i-ta rt

NORTHERN SPY
Red skin stre a ke d w ith yellow . Crisp,
E xce lle n t in pies
firm , ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt
RED DELICIOUS
B rig h t red spe ckle d w ith yellow . Flesh is

y e llo w -w h ite . Firm . S w e et ta s te
Eaten o u t o f hand
ROME BEAUTY
B rig h t red skin spe ckle d w ith yellow .

Flesh is firm . M ild, ta rt-s w e e t
G re a t f o r ba kin g w hole
D u sty red w ith w h ite spo ts. Flesh is firm
A ll-p u rp o s e . In pies, sauces. Baking.
STAYMAN W INESAP
and crisp. Tart, a ro m a tic

CORTLAND
S m ooth, shiny red skin. C risp te x tu re .

S w e e t-ta rt. S tays w h ite a fte r c u ttin g
lo ng er than o th e r v a rie tie s
A ll-p u rp o s e
HONEYCRISP
Yellow w ith good am o un t o f red blush.

Very crisp. Very sw e e t
Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se
Peachy-red, spe ckle d w ith yellow . Crisp
GALA
and ju icy. S w e et and z e sty

CAMEO
D ull red, sp lo tch y, w ith som e ye llo w brow n colorin g. S w e e t-ta rt fla v o r and
A ll-p u rp o s e
firm te x tu re
MACOUN
Ranges fro m m aroon to green w ith dull

red blush, som e w h ite spo ts. C risp and
ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt
Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o s e
COX ORANGE PIPPIN
G olden b ro w n ish-o rang e w ith green

tin g e . C risp and ju icy. S lig h tly ta r t
A ll-p u rp o s e
There are many varieties of apples available only within small regions. These apples share eating and cooking characteristics with
those described here. If you have any questions, ask your purveyor or other reputable source for the best use for a particular variety.
ch a p te r 8 FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
131
berries
Berries tend to be highly perishable (with
the exception of cranberries) and are susceptible to
When fresh berries are out of season, IQF (individu

ally quick frozen) berries are often a perfectly fine sub
bruising, molding, and overripening in fairly short
stitute. Dried berries are a delicious addition to winter
order. Inspect all berries and their packaging carefully
fruit compotes, stuffings, or baked goods. The following
before you accept them. Juice-stained cartons or juice
table covers a selection of berry varieties.
leaking through the carton is a clear indication that the

fruit has been mishandled or is old. Once berries begin
to turn moldy, the entire batch goes bad quickly.
B LU EB ER RIES
STRAW BERR IES
RA S PB ER R IE S
CR AN BE R R IE S
B LA C K B ER R IES
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
GO O SEBERRIES
(WITH AND WITHOUT H USK)
CU RR ANTS
VARIETY
BLACKBERRY
DESCRIPTION
Large. P u rp lish -b la ck. Juicy. C u ltiv a te d
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods,

ja m s
and w ild
BLUEBERRY
Sm all to m edium . B lu ish -p u rp le w ith

d u s ty s ilv e r-b lu e "bloom ." S m ooth,
round. Juicy fle sh . S w e et

jam s. D ried. To fla v o r vinegars
CRANBERRY
Sm all. Shiny red, som e w ith w h ite blush.

Hard, dry. Sour
G enerally cooked. In relishes, sauces,

je llie s , ju ices; in breads. Dried
GOOSEBERRY
Sm all to m edium . Yellow to green

a lm o s t tra n s p a re n t skin. Round, sm ooth.
Juicy. V ery t a r t
G enerally cooked; in je llie s , pies,

o th e r baked goods
RASPBERRY
C lu ste rs o f tin y f r u its (drupes), each
c o n ta in in g a seed; may have "h a irs on

surface. Red, black, or golden. Juicy.
S w eet. D e w b e rry is a ty p e o f ra sp b e rry
syrups, purees, sauces, cordials,

syrups. Jams. To fla v o r vinegars
Range o f sizes. Red. Shiny, h e a rtshaped; seeds on th e e x te rio r. S w e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith

sh o rtca ke s. In baked goods, purees,
STRAWBERRY
berries
Berries
jam s, je llie s , ice cream

CURRANT
Tiny, round fr u it. Range in co lo r fro m

w h ite to red to black; s m o o th skin.
S w e et
W h ite and red eaten o u t o f hand;

black c u rra n ts used to make jam s,
je llie s , syrups, and liq u o rs such as
cassis
133
citrus fruits
Citrus fruits are characterized by
with brightly colored skins, as they are often dyed.
extremely juicy, segmented flesh, and skins that contain
When selecting grapefruits, lemons, and limes, on the
aromatic oils. Grapefruits, lemons, limes, and oranges
other hand, look for brightly colored fruits with a finely
are the most common citrus fruits. They range dramati
textured skin. Citrus can be stored at room temperature
cally in size, color, and flavor.
for a short time, but should be refrigerated if being held

for an extended period. Citrus juice is available canned,
Select citrus that is firm and heavy in relation to

its size, with no soft spots. Green hues or rough brown
bottled, frozen, and as frozen concentrate. The table
spots generally do not affect the flavor or texture of the
that follows covers a selection of citrus varieties.
fruit. For oranges, it is not necessary to select fruits
PINK G R APEFRU IT
M E Y E R LEM O N
LEMON
PERSIAN LIME
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
NAVEL ORANGE
Orange skin, re la tiv e ly sm ooth.

Seedless. Sw eet
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested.

Peel may be candied
BLOOD ORANGE
Thin orange skin w ith blush o f red.

P ockets o f da rk red fle sh . A ro m a tic and
sw e e t and ta r t
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced. In sauces;

as fla v o rin g agent
M AND ARIN ORANGE
Several v a rie tie s , ranging in size fro m

ve ry sm all to m edium . S eedless o r w ith
seeds. T angerines and cle m e n tin e s are
citrus fruits
Citrus Fruits
M an da rin v a rie tie s

TANGERINE
Orange; lig h tly pe bb led skin. M any

seeds. Juicy. S w e et
E aten o u t o f hand. Juiced
TANGELO
Orange; s lig h tly pe bb led skin. S lig h tly

ta p e re d at to p . Juicy. Sw eet
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced
SEVILLE ORANGE
T hick, rough skin. M any seeds. Tart,

b itte r, a s trin g e n t
In m arm alade, sauce Bigarade,

lique urs. Peel may be candied
Y ello w -gre en to deep ye llo w skin. Seeds.

E x tre m e ly t a r t
Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent.

Peel may be candied
MEYER LEMON
Round. S m oo th skin. S w eeter, less

acidic ju ic e than re g u la r lem ons
Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. In

baked goods. Peel may be candied
PERSIAN LIME
D ark green, sm o o th skin. Seedless. T art
Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent.

Peel may be candied
KEY LIME
Sm all; round. Y ello w ish -gree n. T art
Juiced. As fla v o rin g agent. M o s t

fa m o u s use is Key lim e pie
W H ITE /R E D /P IN K
GRAPEFRUIT
Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith green

blush. Flesh ranges fro m pale ye llo w
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested. As

fla v o rin g agent. Peel m ay be candied
LEMON
to deep red. S w e e t-ta rt. Seedless

v a rie tie s ava ila ble
U N IQ /U G LI FRUIT
H yb rid citru s . Y ellow -green, th ic k , loose,
w rin k le d skin. Seedless. P in k-ye llo w

fle s h w ith ta n g y and sw e e t fla v o r
ch a p te r 8 FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
135
grapes
Technically, grapes are berries, but because
Store grapes, unwashed, in the refrigerator. Grapes
they include so many varieties and have so many differ
should be thoroughly washed and blotted dry just prior
ent uses, they are usually grouped separately. There are
to being eaten. Grapes are best served at room tempera
varieties of grapes, both with seeds and seedless, avail
ture. The following table covers a selection of grape
able for both eating and wine making.
varieties.
Grapes from California will come into season in late
Grapes vary greatly in color from pale green to deep

purple. Choose grapes that are plump and juicy, with
May for some red grapes, and June or July for Thomp
smooth skins that have a pale gray film (known as bloom).
son, and last into early December. Grapes in the eastern
Grapes should be firmly attached to their green stems.
United States have a shorter season, becoming available
There are varieties of grapes with skin that easily slips off
in August and then gone by November. Imported grapes
the fruit (Concord), and other varieties in which the skin
are generally available year-round; almost all imported
remains firmly intact (Thompson seedless). Grapes are
grapes come from Mexico and Chile.
also dried to make raisins and currants.
C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K
CORINTH
136
THOM PSON
S EE D LES S
RED EM PER O R
B LA C K
CONCORD
GTQ
P
Grapes
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
THOMPSON SEEDLESS
M edium size. Green, th in skin. Seedless.

Sw eet, m ild fla v o r
Table grape. A lso d rie d as raisins
CONCORD
B lue-black, th ic k skin slips ea sily fro m

fle sh . S w e et fla v o r
In ju ice s, jam s, je llie s , syrups, and

pre serve s
BLACK
Large. Deep p u rple skin. U sually w ith

seeds. V ery sw e et fla v o r
Table grape
RED EMPEROR
L ig h t to deep red, w ith green stre a kin g ;

th in , tig h tly a d he ring skin. S w e e t fla v o r.
U sually w ith seeds
Table grape
C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K
V i-in c h dia m e te r. Red to lig h t purple.

Seedless. Juicy and sw e e t
Table grape
RED FLAM E
H yb rid o f th e Thom pson grape. Seedless.

Round in shape. B rig h t, m e d iu m -re d
color. Firm crunch and sw e e t fla v o r
Table grape, fre s h f r u it ta r ts
RUBY RED
Seedless. E lo ng ated shape. Juicy and

sw e et
Table grape
RED GLOBE
Seeded. Large and round. Low in acid.

F a irly sw e e t
Table grape
TOKAY
Seeded. Elongated. Bland fla v o r
Table grape
EMPEROR
Seeded. Sm all and round. Low sugar,

bland, c h e rry -lik e fla v o r
Table grape
Sm all. Pale red to go ld en in color. Very
Table grape
CORINTH
RELIANCE
fla v o rfu l
BLACK BEAUTY
Seedless. Sm all and oblong. Rich, da rk

color. B rig ht, sw eet, spicy fla v o r
Table grape
VENUS
Seedless. Large and round. Rich, da rk

color. S w e et fla v o r; a s trin g e n t skin
Table grape
137
melons
These succulent, fragrant fruits are
that the melon ripened on the vine. When ripe, all
members of the gourd family, as are squashes and cu
muskmelons should become slightly soft at the stem
cumbers. They come in many varieties and range from
end and give off a sweet scent. Muskmelons must be
the size of an orange to that of a watermelon. The two
seeded before they are eaten.
major categories of melons are the muskmelon and the
The mildly flavored watermelon varieties should be

symmetrical. Avoid those with flat sides, soft spots, or
watermelon.
There are two kinds of muskmelons commonly
available, the cantaloupe type and the honeydew type.
Selecting melons and determining ripeness depends
damaged rinds. A ripe watermelon should have good

ground color, without any white on the underside. Un
ripe melons should be stored in a cool, dark place; ripe
greatly on the type. When selecting the cantaloupe-
or cut melon should be kept under refrigeration. The
type muskmelons, look for heavy fruits with a full
following table covers a selection of melon varieties.
slipthat is, a clean break from the stemsignifying
S E E D LE S S W ATERM ELON
HONEYDEW
CAN TALO U PE
138
CAVAILLO N
SANTA C LA U S
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
Beige n e ttin g o r veinin g over su rfa ce o f

skin. Flesh is pale orange, sm oo th , ju icy.
Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith cured

m ea ts and cheeses. In ch ille d f r u it
soups
m elons
Melons
muskmelons
CANTALOUPE
Very sw e et and fra g ra n t

PERSIAN
Large; ca n ta lo u p e -ty p e m uskm elon.

D ark green skin w ith ye llo w n e ttin g .
B rig h t sa lm o n -co lo re d fle sh . S lig h tly

sw e et
HONEYDEW
S om ew hat oval; ho ne yde w -typ e

m uskm elon. Cream y green rind, sm oo th
Eaten o u t o f hand. In chille d f r u it

soups; as garnish; de sserts
skin. P aste l green, ju ic y fle sh . V ery

sw e et
CASABA
H o ne ydew -typ e m uskm elon. L ig h t green

to ye llo w -g re e n skin w ith th ic k grooves.
C re am -colore d, ju ic y fle sh . M ild, clean,
re fre s h in g fla v o r
CRENSHAW
Large oval-shaped ho ne yde w -typ e

m uskm elon. Y ello w ish -gree n, sm ooth,
y e t rid g e d skin. S a lm o n -co lo re d fle sh ;
fra g ra n t, s p ic y . E x tre m e ly sw e e t
watermelons
WATERMELON
Ranges fro m a large o b lo ng shape to a

sm all round shape. Skin is green w ith
lig h te r s trip e s . Rind is w h ite ; w a te ry
fle s h ranges fro m re d -p in k to ye llo w
Eaten o u t o f hand. Rind is p ickled
to w h ite . Shiny black, brow n, o r w h ite

seeds; som e v a rie tie s are seedless.
S w e et and re fre s h in g
c h a p te r 8 FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
139
pears
with no scuffing, bruises, pits, or shriveling in the skin

or neck. Keep unripe pears at room temperature, but
red. Unlike many other fruits, pears ripen after they are
refrigerate them once they are ripe because the colder
picked. When pears are not fully ripened, they can have
temperatures will inhibit the ripening process. Like
granules in the flesh known as stone cells, which give
apples, cut pears turn brown once they are exposed
them an unpleasant sandy or gritty texture. This is a
to the air. Storing them in acidulated water will help
positive characteristic because ripe pears are extremely
prevent browning, but may alter the true flavor of the
fragile and otherwise would not ship well. When choos
pear. The best uses for several varieties are given in the
ing pears, look for fruit that is mature and aromatic,
following table.
BO SC
140
This fruit comes in many varieties, ranging
from round to bell shaped, spicy to sweet, and yellow to
RED B A R T LET T /
W ILLIAM
DANJO U
SECKEL
F O R ELLE
ASIAN
B A R T LET T /
W ILLIAM
13
0 )
p
l-i
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
B A R T LE TT /W ILLIA M
Large; bell shaped. Ranges fro m green to

red; sm o o th skin. Juicy. Sw eet
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached. In

preserves. To fla v o r co rd ia ls
BOSC
Large; long neck, sq u a t b o tto m . Dark,

ru sse te d skin. S w e e t-ta rt
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked,

canned
Large; sq u a t all over. G re e n -ye llo w skin
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked
DANJOU
w ith green speckles, can have a red

blush. S w e et
SECKEL
Sm all. G olden skin w ith red blush.

E x tre m e ly firm and crisp fle sh . S w e et
Poached, baked, canned
and spicy
FORELLE
M edium . G olden w ith red blush and red

speckles. Juicy, crisp fle s h w ith sw e et
fla v o r
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked
ASIAN
Round. G olden orange skin w ith w h ite
Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt in salads
speckles. Firm , crunchy, ju ic y fle sh . M ild

fla v o r
141
stone fruits
Peaches, nectarines, apricots,
Stone fruits are generally only available in the
plums, and cherries are often referred to as stone fruits
summer months, except for some imports from South
because they have one large central pit (stone). These
America. They will soften once picked but not gain any
fruits are usually divided into either freestone or
sweetness. Therefore, the fruit generally found in the
clingstone varieties. In a freestone fruit, as their name
marketplace will have been picked while still very firm
suggests, the seed, or stone, more easily separates itself
or hard to facilitate shipping without incurring damage
from the flesh, whereas the clingstone pit more tightly
to the soft, fully ripened fruit. Color is the best indica
adheres to the flesh of the fruit. Because of their ease of
tor of a fruit that is fully matured before picking; look
use, freestone varieties are more frequently utilized for
for full and vibrantly colored fruit with no hint of green.
cooking purposes that require the removal of the stone.
There should also be a full, sweet aroma indicative of
In addition to their fresh form, these fruits are also
the flavor when the fruit is softened. The following
commonly available canned, frozen, and dried. Many
table covers a selection of stone fruit varieties.
countries produce fruit brandies, wines, and cordials

flavored with peaches, cherries, and plums.
fS
w
W H ITE P E A C H
142
PEACH
N E C T A R IN E
PLUM
IT A LIA N P L U M
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
PEACHES
M edium to large. Fuzzy skin,

w h ite to ye llo w -o ra n g e to
red. Very ju ic y fle sh . Two
Eaten o u t o f hand. In jam s and

je llie s , ice cream , and de sserts.
Canned and d ried
c la s s ific a tio n s : fre e s to n e and

c lin g sto n e
APRICOTS
M edium . Skin is s lig h tly fuzzy,
Eaten o u t o f hand. In ja m s and
and ye llo w to g o ld -o ra n g e w ith

ro sy patches. D rie r tha n a peach.
je llie s , d e sse rts, ju ice. Dried
stone fruits
Stone Fruits
S w eet, s lig h tly t a r t

NECTARINES
Large. S m ooth ye llo w and red

skin. Firm b u t ju icy. S w e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. In salads and

cooked d e sse rts
CHERRIES
Sm all. Ranges in shades fro m

red to black; shiny skin. Firm
S w e e t v a rie tie s : eaten o u t

o f hand. In baked goods and
fle sh . A vaila ble b o th sw e e t and

sour
syrups. D ried
Sour v a rie tie s : in pies,
preserves, and syrups. Dried
Sm all to m edium ; oval to round.

Skin ranges fro m green to red to
purple. Juicy. Very sw e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked

goods, preserves. Some
v a rie tie s are d rie d as prunes
Sm all; oval. Purple skin. Y ellow -
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked

goods, pre serve s
PLUMS
ITALIAN PLUMS
green fle s h w ith ve ry sw e et

fla v o r and s lig h tly fir m fle s h
c h a p te r 8 FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
143
other fruits
A wide variety of fruits fall in the
fruits, such as the passion fruit, can be considered rare,
others group, as they do not fit cleanly into another
while others are as common as the banana. The follow
category. Some of these fruits are tropical, while others
ing table provides information on these uncategorized
are grown in more temperate climates. Many of these
fruits.
P IN EAPPLE
COCONUT
BANANAS
PAPAYA
AVOCADO
RH UBARB
KIWI
144
VARIETY
AVOCADO
DESCRIPTION
Pear shaped. Green to black le a th e ry skin,
In salads, dips (guacamole),

salsa. On sandw iches
sm oo th o r bum py. Y ello w ish -gree n, cream y,

b u tte r fle sh . M ild fla v o r
BANAN A
Y ellow or red in e d ib le peel. S w eet, cream y fle s h
Eaten o u t o f hand. In
puddings, baked goods, and
o th e r de sse rts
PLANTAIN
Larger, s ta rc h ie r re la tiv e o f th e com m on banana.

Hard green peel when unripe; ye llo w to m o ttle d
to a lm o st black when ripe. Flesh is p o ta to -lik e
fle s h when unripe; becom es in cre a sin g ly sw e et
Eaten cooked a t all stages

o f ripeness. E xcelle nt frie d ,
baked, mashed
other fruits
Other Fruits
and s o ft as it ripens
RHUBARB
Long red sta lks, tin g e d w ith green; leaves are
A lw ays eaten cooked. In pies,
poisonous. Crisp te x tu re ; s o fte n s when cooked.
ta rts , and preserves
Sour, t a r t fla v o r
COCONUT
Round. Hard, brown, ha iry husk. Firm , cream y,

w h ite m eat; th in , w a te ry liq u id in th e center.
P rocessed in to coco nu t oil, co co n u t m ilk. D rypackaged sw e eten ed or unsw eetened, shre dd ed
Eaten raw o r cooked. In sw eet

and savory p re p a ra tio n s such
as chutney, cake, curry
o r fla k e d
FIG
GUAVA
Sm all, round o r be ll shaped. S o ft, th in skin;

ranges fro m p u rp le -b la c k to lig h t green. Tiny
e d ib le seeds. E x tre m e ly sw eet. M o s t com m on
v a rie tie s are M ission and C alim yrna
O val shape. Thin skin; ranges fro m ye llo w to red
to a lm o s t black when ripe. Flesh ranges fro m
pale ye llo w to b rig h t red. E x tre m e ly sw e e t and
Eaten o u t o f hand. Dried. In

preserves. A ll fo rm s eaten
w ith cheese
E xce lle n t fo r jam s, preserves,

and sauces; guava paste
served w ith cheese
fra g ra n t. C om m only a va ila ble fre s h in green,

unripe s ta te ; also a va ila ble canned, fro ze n , as
paste
KIWI
Sm all, o b lo n g be rry. Fuzzy brow n skin. B rig h t

green fle sh , d o tte d w ith tin y ed ib le black seeds.
Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt

in sauces and so rb e ts
S o ft, sw eet, t a r t
MANGO
PINEAPPLE
Round to obtong-shape. Skin ranges fro m ye llo w
E xce lle n t f o r sw e e t sauces
to green and red. C ontains a single large f la t

seed. S w eet, s o ft, b rig h t y e llo w fle sh . A vaila ble
fre sh , canned, fro ze n , as puree, nectar, dried .
M o s t com m on v a rie ty is Tom m y A tk in s
and s o rb e ts as w e ll as in
chutneys. A lso used in its
unripe, green fo rm in salads
Large cylinder. Rough, d ia m o n d -p a tte rn e d yellow
Eaten o u t o f hand. G rilled.
skin; long, sw o rd -like leaves s p ro u t fro m to p .

Available fresh, frozen, canned, candied, dried.
Com m only available v a rie tie s have e xtre m e ly
Juiced. In baked goods
fra g ra n t, juicy, and sw e et b rig h t y e llo w fle sh
145
Other Fruits, continued

DESCRIPTION
Oval shaped; 3 - 5 inches long w ith 5 d is tin c tiv e
Eaten o u t o f hand. In f r u it
rib s th a t e xte nd o u tw a rd fro m end to end.

Yellow to green. C ro sscut slices resem ble
salads, de sserts. As a garnish
VARIETY
STAR F R U IT /
CARAM BOLA
stars. S w eet, so m e tim e s m ild ly sour fla vo r,

re m in is c e n t o f a co m b in a tio n o f pineapple, kiw i,
and apple. Firm te x tu re d fle sh
PAPAYA
POMEGRANATE
Pear-shaped; ab ou t 6 inches long. G old en -yellow

skin. C e nter c a v ity packed w ith black, round,
ed ib le seeds. B rig h t pin kish -o ra n g e fle s h when
ripe. F ragra nt, sw e et s ilk fle sh . A lso a va ila ble as
nectar, puree, dried
A pple -shap ed ; fra g ra n t. B rig h t red, le a th e ry
skin. C ontains hundreds o f tin y red fle s h covered ed ib le seeds, s e p a ra te d in to p a cke ts by
th in cre a m -co lo re d m em branes. Juicy. Very t a r t
and sw e et. A lso ava ila ble as ju ic e c o n c e n tra te
and m olasses
PASSION FRUIT
Egg-shaped; ab ou t 3 inches long. D im pled skin,

da rk p u rple when ripe. E x tre m e ly fra g ra n t
Eaten o u t o f hand, both

rip en ed and in its green
s ta te ; unripe, in Asian salads.
Enzyme (papain) used to
te n d e riz e m eat
Eaten o u t o f hand, seeds only.
O fte n a garnish or pressed
f o r ju ice
E xce lle n t in d e sse rts and

beverages
yellow , s w e e t-ta rt fle sh , fle c k e d w ith edible

black seeds. A vaila ble fre sh , pureed and frozen ;
also as canned n e cta r and co n ce n tra te
PERSIMMON
Tom ato-shaped. M o s t com m o nly ava ila ble
Eaten o u t o f hand. Hachiya
v a rie tie s : Hachiya and Fuyu. R ed-orange skin

and fle sh . S m ooth, cream y te x tu re when ripe
m u st be c a re fu lly ripened
b e fo re eaten; e x c e lle n t in
pies and puddings.
Fuyu eaten crisp or s o ft and
fu lly ripened; good in salads
(Hachiya); s o ftly y ie ld in g like a to m a to (Fuyu).

T angy-sw eet fla v o r. A vaila ble fre s h or pureed
and fro z e n
QUINCE
Looks and ta s te s s im ila r to an apple; has te x tu re

s im ila r to a pear. Y ello w -skin . F lora l arom a when
ripe. C risp w h ite d ry fle sh ; tu rn s pink when
cooked. A s trin g e n t raw; sw e e t cooked.
QUINCE
146
M u s t be cooked b e fo re
e ating. E xce lle n t in jam s,
je llie s , preserves, and baked
ite m s
cabbage family The cabbage (brassica) fam
form a head, but are prized for their roots. Turnips
ily includes a wide range of vegetables. Some members
and rutabagas are also members of the brassica family, but
of this family, such as cauliflower and green cabbage,
they are more commonly thought of as root vegetables.
are referred to as heading cabbages. Others, such as
The following table covers a selection of brassica varieties.
bok choy, form loose heads, while other varieties do not
m '
SA VO Y CABBAG E
RED CAB BAG E
B R U S S E LS SPROUTS
CAU LIFLO W ER
N A PA CA B BA G E
147
cabbage family, continued
O
O "
Cabbage Family
o "
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
BROCCOLI
Deep green flo re ts , som e have purple

cast. Pale green, crunchy stem s
Raw. S team ed, boiled, sauteed;
GTQ
rD
baked in casseroles
p
BROCCOLI RABE/R A PIN I
Deep green. Long, th in ste m s w ith sm all

flo re ts ; le afy. S tron g, b itte r fla v o r
S team ed, braised; sauteed w ith olive

oil, g a rlic, and crushed red pepper
fla k e s
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Round, cabbage shaped, sm all; a b o u t 1

inch in dia m e te r. L ig h t green. S tro n g fla v o r
S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed
BOK CHOY/CHINESE
W HITE CABBAGE
Loose head. Green to w h ite crisp stem s;

ten der, deep green leaves. M ild fla v o r
Raw in salads. S tir-frie d , steam ed,

b o ile d
GREEN CABBAGE
T ig h t, round heading cabbage. L ig h t to
Steamed, braised, sauteed. Ferm ented

in sa u e rk ra u t and kim chi. Raw in
m edium green. C risp te x tu re . S om ew hat

s tro n g fla v o r
RED CABBAGE
T igh t, round heading cabbage. Deep

p u rple to m aroon; ste m s on in d ivid u a l
"< !
salads and colesla w

S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in
leaves are w h ite , g ivin g m arbled

appearance when cut. C risp te x tu re .
S om ew hat s tro n g fla v o r
NAPA/CHINESE
CABBAGE
E lo ng ated heading cabbage. Broad

w h ite ste m s w ith lig h t to m edium green
tip s . S o ft, w rin k ly leaves. M ild fla v o r
S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in

SAVOY CABBAGE
M o d e ra te ly tig h t, round heading

cabbage. T extured, w rin k ly , da rk green
leaves. M ild fla v o r
Raw. S team ed, braised, sauteed
CAULIFLOW ER
W hite, green, o r purple flo w e rin g head

w ith green leaves. S om e w h at s tro n g
fla v o r
Raw. S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed,

ro a ste d ; baked in casseroles
KO HLRABI/CABBAGE
TURNIP
Round, tu rn ip -s h a p e d bulb w ith stem s

and leaves a tta ch e d . W h ite w ith purple
tin t. Tender. M ild ly sw e et
Raw. S team ed, boiled, s tir - fr ie d
KALE
Deep green, som e tim es w ith purple hues.

R u ffle d leaves. M ild cabbage fla v o r
S auteed, boiled, steam ed. In soups
COLLARD GREENS
Large, fla t, rounded green leaves.

S im ila r to cabbage and kale in fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, braised; boiled

w ith a ham hock
TURNIP GREENS
Broad, f la t green leaves. Tough, coarse

te x tu re . S tro n g ly fla v o re d
Steam ed, sauteed, braised
BROCCOLINI
B rig h t green, long s le n d e r s ta lk s w ith

sm all flo re ts . Crunchy. M ild, sw eet;
ta s te s like a cross be tw ee n asparagus
Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed, g rille d
and b ro c c o li
BABY BOK C H O Y/
PAKCH O Y
Sm all v a rie ty o f bok choy. L ig h t green,

te n d e r leaves. C risp sta lks
B raised, s tir- fr ie d , steam ed. In soups
149
soft-shell squash, cucumber,

and eggplant Soft-shell squash, cucumber,
varieties cook rather quickly, while cucumbers are most

often eaten raw. Select soft-shell squashes, eggplants,
and eggplant are all vegetables that are picked when
and cucumbers that are on the smaller side, firm,
they are immature to ensure a delicate flesh, tender
brightly colored, and without bruising. These varieties
seeds, and thin skins. Soft-shell squash and eggplant
should all be refrigerated.
CHAYOTE
B A B Y PATTYPAN SQUASH
ENGLISH CU CU M B ER
ZUCCHINI
JAPAN ES E
EG G PLAN T
S T A N D A R D /PU R P LE EG G PLA N T
YELLO W
SQUASH
SQ UASH
BLO SSO M
K IR B Y CU CU M B ER
WHITE EG G PLA N T
STAN D AR D /SLICIN G CU CU M B ER
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
USES
S m all to m edium d isk shape w ith scallop ed edge.

L ig h t green to yellow , so m e tim e s spe ckle d or
s tre a ke d w ith da rk green. Tender. M ild fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, frie d
M edium to large pear shape. Ligh t green w ith deep
S team ed, sauteed, s tir-frie d ,

s tu ffe d and baked, frie d
soft-shell squash
PATTYPAN
CHAYOTE/M IRLITO N
"puckers" between halves. W hite flesh surrounding

one seed. M ild fla v o r
CROOKNECK
Long, b e n t n a rrow neck a tta c h e d to a la rg e r base.
S team ed, sauteed, frie d
Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith bum ps. L ig h t ye llo w

fle sh . D e lica te fla v o r
YELLO W
E lo ng ated pear shape. Yellow skin. C re am -colore d

fle sh . M ild fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, frie d ,

g rille d
ZUCCHINI
N arrow , c y lin d ric a l shape. Green w ith fle c k s o f

ye llo w o r w h ite . Cream y fle s h w ith green hue. M ild
fla v o r
g rille d . In quick breads and
SQUASH BLOSSOM S
S o ft, ye llo w -o ra n g e flo w e rs w ith a green stem .

S qu ash -like fla v o r; m ild fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, frie d ,

f r it t e r s
Raw in salads. S tu ffe d , baked,
sauteed, frie d . In fritta ta s , as
garnish
cucumbers
STANDARD/SLICING
CUCUMBER
Long, narrow , ta p e rin g a t ends. Thin green skin,

so m e tim e s w ith pale green s p o ttin g . C ream y w h ite
fle sh ; seedy. C risp and re fre sh in g ; m ild fla v o r
KIRBY
S h o rte r tha n sta n d a rd cucu m be r b u t w ith same

dia m e te r. Green skin, so m e tim e s w ith w a rts . W h ite
fle sh . Very crunchy te x tu re . M ild fla v o r
E N G LIS H /B U R P LE S S /
HO THO USE/
SEEDLESS
P ickled or raw. In salads,

relish, and uncooked sauces
such as ra ita
Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt
p ickle d
Long, even c y lin d e r w ith som e rid gin g. V ib ra n t

green skin. C risp te x tu re ; no seeds. M ild fla v o r
P ickled. In salads and cru d ite s
Rounded o r e lon gate d pear shape. Deep p u rp le black skin w ith a sheen; green calyx a tta c h e d at
S tew ed, braised, roa ste d,

g rille d , frie d ; p o pu lar dishes
include ra ta to u ille , baba
eggplant
STANDARD/PURPLE
th e to p . O ff-w h ite fle sh . Can be s lig h tly b itte r,

e sp e cia lly la rg e r veg etab le s; o th e rw is e sw e e t
JAPANESE
W HITE
Long, narrow, cylinder; so m e tim es arched. Deep

pu rp le -b la ck s tria te d skin w ith a sheen; purple to
black calyx a tta ch e d a t th e to p . Tender flesh . M ild ly
sw eet
May be long, round, or egg shaped. M ilky w hite,
som etim es w ith purple streaks; tou ghe r skin. Firm,
sm ooth flesh. S ligh tly b itte r
ganoush, and eg gp lan t

Parm esan
S tew ed, braised, roa ste d,
g rille d , frie d
S tew ed, braised, roasted,

g rille d , frie d
soft-shell squash, cucumber, and eggplant
Soft-Shell Squash, Cucumber, and Eggplant
hard-shell squash
Hard-shell squashes,
also members of the gourd family, are characterized by
Select squashes that are heavy for their size, with a

hard, unblemished rind. Hard-shell squashes may be
their hard, thick skins and seeds. These thick skins and
stored in a cool, dark place for many weeks without de
yellow to orange flesh require longer cooking than their
teriorating in quality.
soft-shelled counterparts.
BLU E H UBBARD
RED KURI
SPAGHETTI
CARN IVAL
K ABO CH A
STRIPED EDDY
SW EET DUM PLING
DELICATA
WHITE AND ORANGE

JA C K BE LITTLE PU M PKINS
152
B UTTERNU T SQ UASH
VARIETY*
DESCRIPTION
ACORN
A corn shape w ith deep ridges. Dark

green, usually w ith som e orange. Deep
orange fle sh . S lig h tly s trin g y te x tu re .
S w e et fla v o r
Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed

w ith honey or m aple syrup. In soups
BUTTERNUT
E lo ng ated pear shape. Tan skin. B rig h t
orange, cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r
w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups
Large. D u sty green to b rig h t orange, can

also be blue. Very w a rty skin. Y ellow -

w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups
HUBBARD
hard-shell squash
Hard-Shell Squash
orange fle sh ; gra in y te x tu re . S lig h tly

sw e e t fla v o r
PUM PKIN
W ide v a rie ty o f pu m pkins w ith d iffe re n t

uses: pie (round, b rig h t orange, green
stem ); Jack Be L ittle o r m ini (m in ia tu re
versions, w h ite o r orange); cheese
(large, fla t, beige) are com m on v a rie tie s .

w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups,
pies, and qu ick breads. Seeds, known
as p e p ita s, are ro a ste d
Cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r

SPAGHETTI
W a te rm e lo n shape. B rig h t ye llo w skin

and fle sh ; a fte r it is cooked, th e fle s h
se p a ra te s in to strand s. M ild fla v o r
S team ed, ro a ste d
DELICATA/SW EET
O blong shape. Yellow skin w ith green

s trip e s . B rig h t ye llo w fle sh . E x tre m e ly
S team ed, ro a ste d
POTATO SQUASH
sw e e t fla v o r
* There are many varieties of hard-shell squashes available only within small regions.
See the photo on facing page for some harder-to-find varieties.
c h a p t e r s FRUIT. V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
153
lettuce
Each of the thousands of lettuce varieties
As with most greens, it is very important to thor
can be classified into one of the following categories:
oughly wash lettuce, as dirt and grit tend to hide between
butterhead, crisphead, romaine, or leaf. Select lettuce
the leaves. Never submerge lettuce in water for an
that is crisp, never wilted or bruised. Lettuce should not
extended amount of time, and be sure that it is dried
be washed, cut, or torn until just before service. Store
well after washing (a salad spinner is great for this).
lettuce in the refrigerator, covered loosely with damp
The following table covers several varieties of lettuce.
paper towels.
BOSTON
ICEBERG
RED LEAF
ROM AINE
' ^
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
L o ose ly fo rm e d heads. S o ft, ve ry te n d e r
In salads. Braised
lettuce
Lettuce
butterhead
BOSTON
leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild , sw eet,

d e lica te
BIBB
L o ose ly fo rm e d heads; sm a lle r tha n B oston.
In salads. Braised
S o ft, ve ry te n d e r leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild,

sw eet, d e lic a te
crisphead and romaine

ICEBERG
T ig h t heading le ttu c e . Pale green leaves.

Very m ild
In salads, shredded or served as

a wedge. G arnish f o r M exican
fo o d
ROMAINE
Long c y lin d ric a l head. O u te r leaves are ribbed;

da rk green leaves, becom ing lig h te r on th e
in te rio r. O u te r leaves are s lig h tly b itte r, inner
In salads, esp e cia lly Caesar

salad. Braised
leaves m ild and sw e et
leaf
RED LEAF/GREEN LEAF
Loose heading le ttu c e . M ay be green or red

tip p e d ; ten der, crisp leaves. M ild, becom ing
In salads, w ra ps in Asian cuisine
b itte r w ith age

OAK LEAF
Loose heading le ttu c e . S ca llo p in g on ten der,
In salads
crisp leaves. N u tty fla v o r
155
bitter salad greens
Bitter salad greens are
arugula to crimson heads of radicchio. Selection cri
tender enough to be eaten raw in salads, but may also
teria and handling practices for bitter salad greens are
be sauteed, steamed, grilled, or braised. There are many
similar to those for lettuce. The following table covers
varieties that fit into this category, from green, leafy
several varieties of bitter salad greens.
ESCA R O LE
FRISEE
RADICCHIO
BELGIAN ENDIVE
A R U G U LA
M A C H E /L A M B 'S LETTUCE
W ATERCRESS
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
ARU G U LA/RO CKET
Rounded " te e th on th e ends o f te n d e r

leaves; v ib ra n t green. P eppery fla v o r
In salads, pe sto, soups. Sauteed
BELGIAN ENDIVE
T ight, ob lo ng head. W hite, crisp leaves

w ith yellow ish -gree n or red a t tip s. M ild ly
b itt e r fla v o r
In salads. G rilled, roa ste d, braised
FRISEE
Thin, cu rly leaves; w h ite w ith ye llo w ish green tip s . M ild ly b itte r
In salads, le ttu c e m ixes such as

m esclun
ESCAROLE
H eading le ttu c e . Scalloped, c rin k ly edges

on green leaves. S lig h tly b itte r fla v o r
In salads and soups. Braised, stew ed
M A C H E /L A M B S
LETTUCE
Loose bunches. Thin, rounded dark green

leaves. Very tender, D elicate, sw e et fla v o r
In salads. S team ed
RADICCHIO
Round or o b lo ng heads. Firm , deep red to

p u rple leaves, w h ite veining. B itte r fla v o r
In salads. G rilled, sauteed, baked,

braised
WATERCRESS
Sm all, scallop ed d a rk-gre en, crisp
In salads, sandw iches, and soups. As

a garnish
leaves. M u s ta rd -lik e , p e p p e ry fla v o r
bitter salad greens
Bitter Salad Greens
157
cooking greens
Cooking greens are the ed
are similar to those for lettuce and bitter salad greens.
ible leaves of certain plants that are often too fibrous to
The following table covers several varieties of cooking
eat without first being sauteed, steamed, or braised. Se
greens. See the cabbage family table on page 149 for in
lection criteria and handling practices for cooking greens
formation on kale, collard greens, and turnip greens.
SW ISS CHARD
M USTARD GREEN S
BEET GREENS
BABY
SPINACH
DANDELION GREEN S
RAINBOW SW ISS CHARD
158
B A B Y SWISS CHARD
(WHITE AND RED)
O
O
Cooking Greens
FT
i*
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
BEETGREENS
F la t leaves; deep green, red rib bin g.

M ild, e a rth y fla v o r
Steam ed, sauteed, braised
DANDELION GREENS
Narrow , to o th -e d g e d leaves; tender,

crisp; b rig h t green. M ild ly b itt e r fla v o r
Salads, steam ed, sauteed, braised
Scalloped, n a rrow leaves; d a rk green;
S team ed, sauteed, sim m ered, braised
QTQ
GTQ
i-5
O)
CD
P
MUSTARD GREENS
co
crisp. P eppery, m u sta rd fla vo r. Also

ava ila ble fro z e n and canned
SPINACH
Leaves may be d e ep ly lobed o r fla t,

d e pe nd ing upon v a rie ty ; deep green.
M ild fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble fro z e n
In salads and sandw iches. Steam ed,

sauteed, braised
SWISS CHARD
Lobed, w rin k le d te n d e r da rk green
In soups. S team ed, sauteed, braised.

B oth s ta lk s and leaves are eaten
leaves. C risp sta lks; s ta lk s and rib s may

be w h ite , yellow , or red. M ild fla v o r
CHEF'S NOTES ON COOKING GREENS

Cooking greens are also known as pot
greens can also be eaten at any stage of
herbs. These vegetables are high in fiber,
development. If they are tender and young,
iron, calcium, and photochemicals, such
they may be cooked briefly or eaten raw.
as vitamins C and A, and folic acid. They
Always look for cool and moist greens
are considered a superfood, indicating
with a rich green color and no signs of
that they are one of the most naturally
dryness, yellowing, or wilted edges. Store
nutrient-rich foods. Most cooking greens
any green vegetables in a perforated plastic
are considered cool season vegetables,
bag, or wrapped in a cotton towel in the
making them a good choice for gardens in
refrigerator.
areas with shorter growing seasons. These
159
mushrooms
Mushrooms are a fungus that ex
a sign of age. Conversely, when selecting portobellos
ists in thousands of varieties. Cultivated mushrooms,
mature creminiit is desirable for the gills to be open
commonly available today, include the familiar white
signifying a concentration of flavor. Mushrooms that
mushroom and varieties such as portobello, cremini,
are to be cooked whole should be of equal size so that
shiitake, and oyster mushrooms. Wild mushrooms,
they cook evenly.

Mushrooms should be stored in the refrigerator, in
prized for their concentrated, earthy flavor, include

the cepe (porcini), chanterelle, morel, and the truffle.
a single layer, covered with damp paper towels. When
Knowing your purveyor is important when you have
you want to use them, wipe mushrooms with a damp
wild mushrooms on the menu, as many varieties Eire
paper towel, or very quickly rinse them in cold water
poisonous. Some varieties of mushrooms are available
and drain immediately. Mushrooms should never be
canned, frozen, and dried.
submerged in water, since they absorb it like a sponge
Select mushrooms that are firm, without blemishes

or breaks. If using varieties such as the white or crem
and will become mushy. See the following table for in

formation on varieties of mushrooms.
ini, the caps should be tightly closed, as opened gills are
O YSTER
M AITAKE
PO RTO BELLO
SHIITAKE
CREMINI
WHITE
LO BSTER
C H A N TE R ELLE
M ATSU TAKE
M O REL
160
J VARIETY
WHITE
DESCRIPTION
W h ite to b u ff colore d. Round cap, V i- 3

inches in dia m e te r; "b u tto n " re fe rs to the
Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In

sauces, soups, stew s; s tu ffe d and
baked
s m a lle s t o f th is v a rie ty . F irm te x tu re w ith

m ild, w oodsy fla v o r
CEPE/PORCINI
CHANTERELLE
Pale brow n, 1 -1 0 inches in d iam e te r.

S m ooth, m e a ty te x tu re . P ungent fla vo r.
A vaila ble d ried

sauces, soups, stew s
G olden to a p ric o t; tru m p e t shaped. Chewy
te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r
sauces, soups, stew s
CREMINI
D ark brown, round cap, V 2 - 2 inches in

diam e te r. Firm te x tu re
Raw or cooked. In sauces
ENOKI
W h ite to b u ff; long, slender, s ta lk -lik e
Raw o r cooked. In salads and

soups. As garnish
m ushroom s. Crunchy te x tu re . M ild, f r u ity

fla v o r
LOBSTER
Deep red, m o ttle d color. Large fungus w ith
m ushroom s
Mushrooms
S auteed. In sauces
very dense te x tu re and m eaty fla v o r

MOREL
Tan to ve ry da rk brow n; cone-shaped, ho llo w

cap; 2 - 4 inches in height. F irm b u t spongy
te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d
S auteed. In sauces and salads
PORTOBELLO
Dark brown; opened, f la t caps; 3 - 6 inches

in diam eter. Dense, m eaty te x tu re . S tro n g ly
fla vo re d
Sauteed, g rille d . In sandw iches

and salads
OYSTER
Cream y to s ilv e ry gray; c lu s te r o f fa n

shaped m ushroom s. D e lica te te x tu re .
P eppery fla v o r when raw; m ellow s when
cooked
Sauteed, b ro ile d
SHIITAKE
Tan to brow n; 3 - 6 inches in diam e te r. M e a ty

te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d
Sauteed, b ro ile d , g rille d . S tem s

used in s to c k
Black o r o ff-w h ite ; irre g u la rly shaped,
S erved raw over pasta. In sauces

and ris o tto s
TRUFFLE
w rin k le d . P e rfu m e y fragra nce ; ea rth y,

g a rlic k y fla vo r. A vaila ble canned, fro ze n , and
as fla v o re d oil
MATSUTAKE
Dark brow n. Dense, m e a ty te x tu re . N u tty ,

fra g ra n t fla v o r
Braised, g rille d , steam ed, frie d
M AITA K E /H E N -O F -T H E WOODS
G rayish-brow n. T ig h tly clu ste re d ,

ove rla pping , fa n -sh ap ed caps; w h ite stem s.
Chewy te x tu re . Deep fla v o r
S auteed
Chapter 8 FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
161
onion family Onions, invaluable to any kitch
Select dry onions, garlic, and shallots that are heavy
en, belong to the lily family. They fall into two main
for their size and have tight-fitting, dry, papery skins.
categories, reflecting the state in which they are used:
Green onions should be green with white bottoms. They
dry (cured) and green (fresh). Green onions include seal
should be crisp, not wilted. Dry onions, shallots, and
lions, leeks, and ramps. Dry onions are categorized by
garlic should be stored in a relatively cool, dry area of the
size and color. They can range in size from pearl to Span
kitchen in the bags or boxes in which they are received.
ish, and from white to yellow to red in color.
Green onions should be refrigerated and must be thor
Garlic, shallots, and onions (green and dry) all share a

pungent flavor and aroma. Dry onions make up half
oughly washed before they are used (leeks tend to have

dirt between each layer).
Chives are also a member of the onion family, though
of the most fundamental aromatic combination, mirepoix.

Green onions, whether cooked (leeks) or raw (scallions),
their main culinary application is similar to that of fresh
impart a sweetly subtle onion flavor. Shallots and garlic are
herbs. See the following table for more information on
the flavoring agents in innumerable preparations.
onions.
P EA R L
ONIONS
RED, WHITE,
AND GOLD
SPANISH ONION
- m
CIPOLLINI ONIONS
GARLIC
w
GREEN ONIONS
162
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
i*
Onion Family
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
dry
PEARL/CREAM ER
Sm all, W in c h -d ia m e te r, oval onion. M ay be w h ite

or red. M ild fla v o r
B oiled, pickled , brined; as garnish

in drinks. In ste w s and braises
BOILING
Sm all, 1 -in ch -d ia m e te r, round onion. W h ite or

ye llo w skin. M ild fla v o r
In ste w s and soups. P ickled
CIPOLLINI
Sm all, round, fla tte n e d onion. Yellow, p a pe ry skin.
R oasted, g rille d . In casseroles
S lig h tly sw e e t fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble pre se rve d in

o il
GLOBE
SPANISH /JU M BO
SWEET
M edium , round, 1 - 4 inches in diam e te r. M ay be

w h ite , yellow , or red. P ungent fla v o r
In stew s, soups, sauces;

c o m p o n e n t in m ire p o ix
Large, 3 -in ch or m ore dia m e te r, round; known

as C olossal when d ia m e te r exceeds 3V2 inches.
Yellow, red, or w h ite . M ild fla v o r
A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces,

braises, stew s; com p on ent o f
m ire p o ix
Large, so m e tim e s fla tte n e d . W h ite to yellow .
Raw in salads. G rilled, sauteed,

frie d
S w e e t fla v o r. V a rie tie s include W alla W alla,

V id a lia , M aui
GARLIC
Sm all bulb, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Papery w h ite

o r re d -s tre a k e d skin, encasing V 2- to 1-inchlong in d ivid u a l cloves, also covered w ith papery
A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces,

braises, stew s. R oasted and
pureed
skin. Pungent flavo r. E lephant ga rlic: m ore m ild ly

fla v o re d , bulb can be as large as a sm all g ra p e fru it.
G arlic greens are also available; m ild ly fla v o re d ;
used much like scallions
SHALLOTS
Small, 1 -2 inches in length; usually cloves bunched

to g e th e r. L ig h t brown papery skin. W h ite -p u rp le
A ro m a tic in soups, sauces, braises,

stew s. F ried as garnish
fle sh . M ild fla v o r
green
LEEKS
Long, th ic k c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem

end, g ra d u a lly becom ing dark green a t to p . Tender.
S u b tle onion fla v o r
A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces,

braises, stew s; com p on ent o f
w h ite m ire p o ix. S auteed, g rille d ,
stea m e d, braised, frie d as garnish
R A M P S /W ILD
Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem

end, so m e tim e s w ith a pu rp le hue, gra d u a lly
be com ing green a t to p . G a rlicky fla v o r. H ighly
seasonal
A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces,
Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith c y lin d ric a l leaves; w h ite

s te m end gra d u a lly becom ing green a t to p . M ild,
grassy onion fla v o r
A ro m a tic in s tir-fr ie s . Raw in

salads; as garnish
LEEKS
GREEN O N IO N S /
SCALLIONS
braises, stew s. Sauteed, g rille d ,

steam ed, braised, frie d as garnish.
P ickled
163
peppers
There are two basic types of peppers:
imperative to take precautions when handling chiles;
sweet peppers and chiles. Sweet peppers are sometimes
wear gloves, wash cutting surfaces and knives, and
called bell peppers because of their shape. Sweet pep
avoid contact with sensitive tissue such as the eyes.

Chiles are available fresh, canned, dried (whole,
pers of various colors have similar flavors, though red
flaked, and ground), and smoked. Frequently, dried and/or
and yellow varieties tend to be sweeter.

Chiles, an important ingredient in many cuisines,
are available in various sizes, colors, and levels of heat.
smoked chiles are given a name different than their fresh

counterpart (e.g., smoked jalapenos are called chipotles).
When selecting both categories, look for firm, heavy
Capsaicin is the compound that gives a chile its heat,

and it is most potent in the white ribs inside the pepper.
peppers, with tight, glossy skin, without puckering or
Generally, the hotter chiles are smaller in size. It is
wrinkling. The flesh should be relatively thick and crisp.
RED, YELLO W , AND

GREEN SWEET
M AN ZANA
RED AND
GREEN
HABANER0
FRESH AND DRIED

THAI BIRD CHILES
S ER RAN O
ANCHO
GUAJILLO
ANAHEIM
JA LA PEN O
FRESNO
POBLAN O
CHIPOTLE
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
VARIETY
SWEET PEPPERS
DESCRIPTION
Bell-shaped; 3 -5 inches long, 2 - 4 inches
In salads. Raw; sauteed, g rille d ,

ro a ste d , s tu ffe d and baked
w ide. Green, red, yellow , o r purple. Crisp,

ju ic y fle sh . M ild, sw e et fla v o r. R oasted
pe pp ers are a va ila ble canned and
b o ttle d
peppers
Peppers
chiles/hot peppers (listed in order from mild to hot)

A N A H E IM /C A LIFO R N IA
Long, narrow , ta p e re d . Green; red v a rie ty

is known as C olorado. S w eet, m ild fla vo r.
A lso a va ila ble dried , called m a riso l
In salsa. S tu ffe d
POBLANO
Large, ta p e re d , fla tte n e d cone; 4 -5

inches long, 3 inches w ide. Very dark
green, so m e tim e s w ith a black hue. M ild
fla v o r. A lso ava ila ble d ried , called ancho
o r m ulato
C om m only s tu ffe d , as chiles rellenos.

In soups and stew s
FRESNO
Sm all to m edium , ta p e re d ; 2 - 3 inches

long. Deep green o r red. Range fro m m ild
to m edium hot
In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups
JALAPENO
Sm all to m edium ; ta p e re d chile; 2 inches

long, 3/ t inch w ide. Deep green or red.
Range fro m h o t to v e ry hot. A vaila ble
In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups,

stew s, relish. S tu ffe d
canned and b o ttle d . Sm oked and d rie d

called c h ip o tle s
SERRANO
Sm all, skinny; I V 2 inches long. Dark
In sauces, salsa
green to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble

canned in o il o r p ickle d . D ried, in w hole
or po w d ered fo rm , called chile seco
THAI
Tiny, thin ; 1 inch long, V * inch w ide. Green

to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble dried,
In sauces, s tir-frie s , as garnish
called b ird chiles

HABANERO
Sm all; la n te rn shaped. Pale green to

orange. E x tre m e ly hot; a s im ila r v a rie ty
is th e S cotch bonnet. A lso a va ila ble
In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d

co n d im e n ts
d rie d
M ANZANA
Sm all, apple-shaped; I V 2 - 2 inches

long. Red, yellow , o r green; black seeds
in a pod th a t pull aw ay fro m th e fle sh .
S im ila r in he at to habanero pe pp ers
In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d

co n d im e n ts
165
pod and seed vegetables
This group
snap peas, snow peas, green beans, and wax beans. In
includes fresh legumes (peas, beans, and bean sprouts),
other cases, the peas or beans (such as limas, scarlet
as well as corn and okra. All varieties are best eaten
runners, and black-eyed peas) are removed from their
young, when they are at their sweetest and most tender.
inedible pods. Select vegetables that are crisp, brightly
If possible, purchase pod and seed vegetables from lo
colored, and free of discoloration. Peas, beans, and corn
cal growers to minimize the time between picking and
are also available dried, as discussed in Chapter 10.
serving. This is especially important with peas and corn.

Some fresh peas and beans are eaten whole, when
the pods are still fleshy and tenderfor example, sugar
GREEN BEAN
HARICOTS
VERTS
SNOW PEA
CHINESE LO N G /
YARD LONG BEAN
CORN
G R EEN /
EN G LISH /
G ARDEN PEA
FAVA BEAN
SU G A R
S N A P P EA
Y ELLO W ROM ANO BEAN

GREEN RO M AN O BEAN
ED A M A M E
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
CORN
Papery husk su rro u n d in g s ilk -lik e hair

and long, th ic k cobs. Y ellow a n d /o r w h ite
kernels. Juicy, sw eet. C om m only a va ila ble
canned and fro ze n
B oiled, steam ed, g rille d . O fte n cut

o f f th e cob f o r soups, cream ed
corn, succotash, and o th e r side
dishes
Long, th in , ed ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all
B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
beans
GREEN BEAN
seeds. D ull green; s im ila r v a rie tie s include a

pale ye llo w (wax bean) o r p u rp le (B urgundy
bean, w hich tu rn s green when cooked).
C om m only a va ila ble canned and fro z e n
HARICOTS V ER TS/
FRENCH GREEN BEAN
Long, v e ry th in , e d ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all

seeds. D ull green. V e lve ty skin
ROMANO BEAN
W ide, fla t- lo o k in g ed ib le pods. D ull green.

M ore pronounced fla v o r tha n green beans
CHINESE LONG B E A N /
D ull green, v e lv e ty skin; V * inch th ic k , 1 8 -3 6

inches long. Edible pods c o n ta in in g sm all
seeds. F le xib le te x tu re
Sauteed, s tir - fr ie d
LIM A BEAN
Long, large, in e d ib le pods; large, plum p,

kid ne y-shap ed beans. Green pods; lig h t
green beans. Known as b u tte r beans in th e
so u th e rn U n ite d S ta te s. A lso a va ila ble
fro ze n , canned, d ried
B oile d and sauteed; pureed.

Served h o t o r cold. In succotash
FAVA BEAN
Long, large, in e d ib le green pods; large, fla t,

kid ne y-shap ed beans. Tough lig h t green
YARD-LONG BEAN
pod and seed vegetables
Pod and Seed Vegetables

S erved h o t o r cold
skin m ust be peeled aw ay to reveal th e lig h t

green bean. A lso a va ila ble dried
CRANBERRY BEAN
Large, in ed ible, lig h t ta n pod, fle c k e d w ith

red. O ff-w h ite and re d -s p lo tc h e d beans.
N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble d ried

Served h o t o r cold. In soup
EDAM AM E/G REEN

SOYBEAN
Fuzzy, green in e d ib le pods, 1 - 2 inches long;

co n ta in green beans. S w e et fla v o r
B oile d and steam ed, as a snack or

a p p e tiz e r
GREEN PEA/ENG LISH

PEA/GARDEN PEA
Tapered, rounded, in e d ib le green pods.

Sm all, round, shiny, lig h t green peas. S w e et
fla v o r
S team ed, stew ed. Pureed in

soups; so m e tim e s chille d
SNOW PEA
Thin, fla t, edible, green pod, c o n ta in in g tin y
S team ed, s tir-frie d . Eaten raw
peas
seeds. Crisp. S w e et fla v o r

SUGAR SNAP PEA
Plump, e d ib le deep green pod co n ta in in g

sm all peas. Crunchy. S w e et fla v o r
S team ed, s tir -frie d . Eaten raw
167
root vegetables
Roots serve as a food storage
area for plants; therefore, they are rich in sugars,
Root vegetables should be stored dry and unpeeled.

If they come with greens attached, these should be
starches, vitamins, and minerals. Roots primarily move
healthy in appearance at the time of purchase and cut
nutrients and moisture to the tops of the plant. Veg
off as soon as possible thereafter. When properly stored,
etables such as beets, carrots, and turnips are directly
most root vegetables will retain good quality for several
attached to the plant via leaves or leaf stems.
weeks,
FRENCH RADISH
RED RADISH
B A B Y WHITE
TURNIPS
B A B Y CARRO TS
LAR G E RED BEET
B A B Y BEETS
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WHITE TU RNIPS
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B A B Y GOLD BEETS
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DAIKON
LAR G E GOLD BEET
HORSERADISH
169
Root Vegetables
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
CARROT
Long, th in , ta p e re d . Orange, yellow , or

purple; o fte n w ith green fe a th e ry to p s.
Crunchy, sw e et fle sh . Baby c a rro ts
com m o nly available
C om po nen t o f m ire p o ix. Boiled,

stea m e d, sauteed, roa ste d, glazed.
Round, bum py. L ig h t brow n skin; w h ite

fle s h
B oiled, ro a ste d . In soups, stew s,
C ylin d rica l w ith s lig h t ridges, 6 - 8 inches

long. R e dd ish-b row n skin; w h ite fle s h
B oiled, cream ed. In soups
CELERY ROOT
LOTUS ROOT
Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
casseroles
w ith large holes

M ALAN G A
B arre l-sha pe d. Rough brow n skin; w h ite ,
B oiled, cream ed. In soups and stew s
sta rc h y fle s h
C a rro t-sh a p e d . W h ite skin, fle c k e d w ith
C om ponent o f w h ite m ire p o ix. Boiled,
brown. W h ite fle sh . Cream y te x tu re .

S w e et fla v o r
stea m e d, sauteed, ro a ste d
S ALSIFY/O YSTER
PLANT
Long, th in , stick-sh a p e d . Black, dull skin.

W h ite fle sh . M ild o y s te r fla v o r
F la vo rin g f o r s tir -frie s , soups, sauces
TURNIP
Round. P urple to w h ite skin. W h ite fle sh .

Sharp fla v o r
S team ed, boiled, sauteed. In soups.
Round; 1 - 4 inches in d iam e te r. W h ite

skin w ith pu rp le to p . W h ite fle sh . M ild,
S team ed, boiled, ro a ste d , frie d .

P opular in Caribbean cuisine
PARSNIP
PURPLE-TOPPED/
W HITE TURNIP
Raw in salads
sw e e t fla v o r
R U TABAG A/YELLO W
TURNIP
Large, round; 3 - 5 inches in diam eter.

Yellow skin. Firm ye llo w fle sh . S w eet
S team ed, bo ile d; mashed, pureed.

P opular in C aribbean, L a tin Am erican,
and A fric a n cuisines
RADISHES
Round. Red skin. W h ite fle sh . Crisp.

P eppery fla v o r
B oiled, cream ed. In soups. Raw in

salads, c ru d ite s
STANDARD BEET
S m all to m edium ; round o r elongated.

Red, pink, purple, w h ite , gold, o r s trip e d ;
green, le a fy to p s (also a va ila ble ce llo packed w ith o u t to p s). E arth y and sw e et
B oiled, ro a ste d , glazed, pickled . In

salads, in soup (com m only bo rscht).
Served h o t and cold
DAIKON
C a rro t-sh a p e d ; up to 15 inches long,

3 inches w ide. W h ite skin. Crisp, ju ic y
w h ite fle sh . M ild fla v o r
Raw in salads; p ickle d . G rilled, baked,

boiled, cream ed. In soups, stew s
Tubers and rhi
The tuberous potato includes sweet potatoes/yams
zomes, which include a variety of miscellaneous vegeta
for culinary purposes (though of another botanical clas
bles such as the Jerusalem artichoke and jicama as well as
sification). Though potatoes are remarkably versatile in
the entire family of potatoes, are vegetables that are con
their cooking media, there are types that work best for
nected to the root system by an underground stem and
each cooking method. Potatoes are separated into cate
are not, therefore, connected directly to the plant, as are
gories based on starch content, and subsequently divid
roots. Tubers act to store nutrients and moisture for the
ed according to size (A, B, C) and skin color (white, red,
plants reproductive capability.
yellow, purple). Size A potatoes range from
Select tubers and rhizomes that are firm and the ap
inches; size B range from
1V 2
to
2V 4
i/ s
to
2V 4
inches; and size C
propriate size and shape to their type. To retain quality,
must be less than
tubers should be stored dry and unpeeled, away from
any color that are recently harvested and thin-skinned.
excess heat and light, in a well-ventilated area. When
Most size C potatoes are marketed as creamer potatoes.
1V 4
inches. New potatoes are those of
exposed to moisture or heat, tubers begin to sprout and

wrinkle.
tubers and rhizomes
tubers and rhizomes
RED POTATOES
RED C R E A M E R S
YU KO N GOLD
PU R PLE POTATOES
FINGERLINGS
Y E LLO W A POTATOES
R U S S ET POTATO
Y ELLO W B POTATOES
Y E LLO W C R EA M E R S
171
tubers and rhizomes, continued
172
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
CASSA VA/YU C C A/
S ix -1 2 inches long, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Wax-
MANIOC
coated dark brown skin. W hite flesh. Sw eet flavor.
S tir-frie s , soups, sauces,

d e s s e rts (tapioca). N ote th a t
Also available dried, ground as tapioca flo u r and as

tap ioca pearls in various sizes
b itt e r cassava is poisonous

unless p ro p e rly cooked
Gnarled, rough rhizom e. L ig h t brow n skin.

Y e llo w is h -w h ite fle sh . F ibrous, b u t ju ic y . Spicy,
w ith su b tle sw eetness. A lso a va ila ble dried,
ground, candied, pickled , and as b o ttle d ju ice
F la vo rin g f o r s tir -frie s , soups,

sauces, d e sse rts, and beverages
(tea, g in g e r ale). Candied,
p ickled
GALANGAL
Resem bles ginger, w ith lig h te r co lo re d fle sh . Very

p e p p e ry and spicy
F la vo rin g f o r s tir- fr ie s , soups,

sauces
JICAM A
Large, round; brow n skin. W h ite fle sh . C risp and

crunchy. M ild, sw e e t fla v o r
S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed

(rem ains crunchy). Raw in
salads, slaws, and c ru d ite s
SUN CHO KE/
S im ila r in appearance to g in g e r b u t in d ivid u a l
JERUSALEM
ARTICHOKE
knobs; brow n skin. W h ite fle s h . Crisp. S w eet, n u tty

fla v o r
Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed,

ro a ste d . In soups. Raw in salads
BONIATO
Large, up to 1 f o o t in length; o b lo n g shape.

R e dd ish-b row n skin. W h ite fle sh . M ild , sw e e t fle s h
like ch e stn u ts
Steam ed, bo ile d, roa ste d, frie d ,

pureed
Round; 2 V 2- 3 V 2 inches in dia m e te r, 3 - 4 inches

long. L ig h t ta n skin. Firm , o ff- w h ite fle sh ;
m o d e ra te m o is tu re and s ta rch co n te n t. S m ooth,
B oiled. In p o ta to salad
GINGER
tubers and rhizomes
Tubers and Rhizomes
potatoes
CHEF
sh a llo w eyes
R U S S E T/B A K IN G /
IDAHO
O blong, a b o u t 5 inches long, 3 inches in diam eter.

Brow n, coarse skin. W h ite fle sh . Low m o is tu re and
high sta rc h co n te n t; f lu f f y
Baked, frie d , pureed, mashed
RED
Round. Red skin. O ff-w h ite fle sh . H u c kle b e rry is an

he irlo o m v a rie ty w ith red fle s h
B oiled, ro a ste d . In p o ta to salad
YELLOW
Round. Y e llo w ish -ta n skin. B u tte ry go ld en fle sh .

Yukon G old and Yellow Finn are h e irlo o m v a rie tie s
Baked, pureed. In casseroles,

salads
WHITE
Large, round. Tan skin and w h ite fle s h
Baked, pureed. In casseroles,

salads
PURPLE
Small, round. Deep purple skin. O ff-w h ite or purple

flesh . Peruvian Purple is an heirloom v a rie ty
Salads, hom e frie s , o th e r

p re p a ra tio n s to showcase co lo r
and fla v o r
FINGERLING
Sm all, th in , fin g e r-le n g th . Skin c o lo r ranges fro m

tan to red. Flesh can be o ff- w h ite o r yellow .
Russian Banana and La R a tte are h e irlo o m
v a rie tie s
B oiled, ro a ste d
SWEET POTATO/
YAM
Long, ta p e re d a t b o th ends. Tan or lig h t to deep

orange skin, so m e tim e s deep red. M o is t o ff-w h ite
to deep orange fle sh ; dense te x tu re . Q uite sw e e t
R oasted, boiled, pureed. In

casseroles, soups, pies
173
shoots and stalks
This family consists of
plants that produce shoots and stalks used as vegetables.
cycle of a fern) are examples. The stalks should be firm,

fleshy, and full, with no evidence of browning or wilt
Artichokes (thistle-like plants, members of the aster
ing. Store these vegetables in the refrigerator, and wash
family), asparagus (another member of the lily fam
just prior to cooking them.
ily), celery, fennel, and fiddleheads (part of the growth

G LO BE
ARTICHOKE
BABY
ARTICHOKE
FEN N EL
WHITE A S PA R A G U S
CELERY
A S PA R A G U S
FIDDLEHEAD FERN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
ASPARAGUS
Tall, sle n d e r sta lk s . Green w ith p u rp le hued tip s , w h ite , o r purple. S kin n ie r
S team ed, sauteed, roa ste d, g rille d .

In soups, ris o tto
asparagus are usu ally m ore te n d e r

FENNEL
V ery pale green bulb, w ith s ta lk s and

b rig h t green fro n d s . Crunchy. Anise
fla v o re d
Raw in salads. S auteed, blanched,

ro a ste d . F ronds are used in salads or
as garnish
F ID DLEH EADFERN
Sm all, t ig h tly wound spirals. Deep green

color. Chewy te x tu re . S im ila r fla v o r to
Raw in salads; sauteed, steam ed,

b o ile d
shoots and stalks
Shoots and Stalks
asparagus
CELERY
Long s ta lk s , bunched to g e th e r w ith

leaves on to p . L ig h t green. Crunchy. M ild
b u t d is tin c t fla v o r
ARTICHOKES
Range in size fro m baby to jum bo.

Tough green o u te r leaves; h e a rt is
ten der, w ith a cream y te x tu re . S w e et
fla v o r. A rtic h o k e h e a rts are com m o nly
a va ila ble canned, packed in oil, and
fro z e n
C om po nen t o f m ire p o ix. Raw in

salads. In soups o r braised. Leaves
are used in salads o r as garnish
Jumbo artich o ke s: s tu ffe d or
stea m e d. Baby artich o ke s: sauteed,
frie d , ro a ste d , m a rin a te d and served
w hole
175
tomatoes
This universal vegetable is actually a
fruit. It is grown in hundreds of varieties, in colors from
Select brightly colored tomatoes, free of soft spots

and blemishes. They should be heavy for their size, but
green to yellow to bright red to purple. Basic types in
not overly firm. Tomatoes should not be refrigerated
clude small, round cherry tomatoes; oblong plum toma
because the cold makes the texture mushy, seizes the
toes; and large standard tomatoes. All are available in
flavor, and halts ripening.
various colors. All have smooth, shiny skin, juicy flesh,
Tomatoes may be purchased in numerous forms,
and small, edible seeds. Most tomatoes grown commer
including sun-dried and canned puree, paste, and diced.
cially are picked unripe and allowed to ripen in transit,
The following table covers several varieties of tomatoes,
though many chefs prefer to find locally grown varieties
including their relative, the tomatillo.
that are ripened on the vine. There has been a recent

surge in demand for the heirloom species, such as the
Cherokee Purple and Green Zebra.
HEIRLOOM AU N T R U B Y 'S G ER M A N GREEN
HEIRLOOM STRIPED G ER M AN
TOMATILLO
HEIRLOOM PU R PLE CHERO KEE
Y E LLO W G RAPE
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
STANDAR D/BEEFSTEAK
Large; round o r oval. Deep red o r yellow .

Juicy. Sw eet
Cooked in sauces, braises, stew s
Raw in salads and sandw iches.
P LU M /IT A LIA N P L U M /
ROMA
M edium , egg shaped. Red o r yellow .

G re a te r p ro p o rtio n o f fle s h ; dryish.
S w e et
In sauces, purees, soups, and o th e r

cooked dishes. Oven ro a ste d
CHERRY
Sm all, 1 inch in dia m e te r. Red o r yellow .

Juicy. Sw eet
S p e c ia lty item . Very sm all, V i - ^ A inch in
Raw in salads
CURRANT/CRANBERRY
tom atoes
Tomatoes
diam e te r. Red o r yellow . Crisp, sw e e t

PEAR TOMATOES
HEIRLOOM (BR AN D Y
W INE, M ARVEL
STRIPED, PURPLE
CALABASH, ETC.)
TOMATILLOS
Sm all, pear shaped; red o r yellow ; ju ic y ,

sw e et
Range in size and c o lo r fro m sm all w ith
Raw in salads; cooked in soups and

sauces
green s trip e s to large p in kish -p u rp le ;

b e a u tifu l, o fte n o d d ly shaped. Juicy and
sw e et
M edium , 1 to 2 inches in dia m e te r, round,
firm . Green o r p u rp le w ith brow n, papery
husk. T art, f r u it y fla v o r
Raw in salads and salsas. Cooked

in sauces. P opular in M exican and
S o u th w e s te rn cuisines .
P L U M /R O M A
Y E LLO W
S T A N D A R D /B EEF S T EA K
C H ER RY
PEAR
Y E L L O W PEAR
1 77
herbs
ROSEMARY
CHERVIL
O REGANO
TH YM E
LEM O N T H YM E
178
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
CILAN TRO
L EM O N G RA SS
CHIVES
FLA T -LEA F
PARSLEY
C U RLY P A R S L E Y
179
Herbs
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
BASIL
Sm all to large de lica te oval, p o in te d leaves. Green

or purple. Pungent, lico rice -like flavo r. V arieties
include opal, lemon, and Thai basil. Also available
F la vo rin g f o r sauces, dressings, in fu sed

oils, and vinegars. P esto sauce. P opular in
M e d ite rra n e a n and Thai cuisine
dried
Flavoring fo r soups, stews, stocks, sauces,
gra in dishes. Remove b e fo re serving
BAY LE A F /
LAUREL LEAF
S m ooth, oval green leaves. A ro m a tic . M o s t
CHERVIL
Sm all, cu rly green leaves; d e lic a te te x tu re . Anise

fla v o r. A lso a va ila ble dried
Garnish. C o m ponent o f fin e s herbes
CHIVES
Long, th in b rig h t green c y lin d ric a l leaves. M ild
F la vo rin g f o r salads and cream cheese.

As garnish. C om ponent o f fin e s herbes
com m o nly a va ila ble dried
onion fla v o r
CILANTRO/CHI
NESE PARSLEY/
CORIANDER
S im ila r shape to f la t - le a f parsley, b u t fr illie r ;

lig h te r green; d e lica te . Fresh, clean fla v o r
F la v o rin g fo r salsa and uncooked sauces
CURRY LEAVES
S m all to m edium p o in te d oval; da rk green. M ild,
S tir -fry , curry
a ro m a tic, s lig h tly b itte r fla v o r

DILL
LEMONGRASS
Long fe a th e r-lik e green leaves. D is tin c t fla vo r.
F la vo rin g f o r salads, sauces, stew s,
A lso a va ila ble d ried
braises
Long blades w ith rough surface; pale ye llo w

green; lem on fla v o r
stea m e d p re p a ra tio n s
MARJORAM
Sm all, oval pale green leaves. M ild fla v o r s im ila r

to oregano. C om m only ava ila ble dried
F la vo rin g f o r lam b and ve g e ta b le dishes
MINT
Pointed, te x tu re d pale green to b rig h t green

leaves; color, size, stre n g th depend on va rie ty.
Includes p e pp erm in t, spearm int, chocolate m in t
F la v o rin g fo r sw e et dishes, sauces, and

beverages. G arnish f o r d e sse rts. M in t
OREGANO
Sm all, oval pale green leaves. P ungent fla vo r.

M exican and M e d ite rra n e a n v a rie tie s are
ava ila ble. C om m only ava ila ble dried
PARSLEY
180
F la vo rin g fo r soups, stocks, s tir-frie s ,
je lly is an a cco m pa nim e nt to lamb

F la vo rin g f o r to m a to -b a s e d dishes. On
pizza
F la vo rin g f o r sauces, sto cks, soups,

dressings. As garnish. C om ponent o f
C urly o r f la t b rig h t green leaves; po in te d,

scallop ed edges. Clean ta s tin g ; F la t-le a f parsley
is also known as Ita lia n parsley. C om m only
ava ila ble d ried
fin e s herbes; in b o uq ue t garni and sachet

d'epices
ROSEMARY
Pine n e e d le -sh a p e d grayish, deep green leaves;

w o od y stem . S tro n g pine arom a and fla vo r.
C om m only ava ila ble dried
Flavoring fo r g rille d foo ds (especially lamb)

and marinades. Popular in M editerranean
cuisine. Branch-like stem s used as skewers
SAGE
Thin, oval, velvety grayish-green leaves. M usty

flavor. V arieties include pineapple sage. Comm only
available dried, both crum bled and ground
F la vo rin g f o r s tu ffin g , sausage, stew s
SAVORY
O blong da rk green leaves. S o ft, fu zzy te x tu re .

C om m only a va ila ble d ried
F la vo rin g f o r pates, s tu ffin g . C om ponent

o f p o u ltry seasoning
TARRAGON
Thin, p o in te d dark green leaves. D e lica te te x tu re .

Anise fla vo r. C om m only a va ila ble dried
F la vo rin g f o r bearnaise sauce.

C o m ponent o f fin e s herbes
THYM E
Very sm all deep green leaves; w o od y stem .

V a rie tie s in clud e garden thym e, lem on thym e,
w ild thym e. C om m only ava ila ble dried
F lavoring fo r soups, stocks, sauces, stews,

braises, roa ste d item s. C om ponent o f
bouquet garni and sachet d'epices
dairy and egg

purchasing and
identification
Concentrated sources of many nutrients, dairy products and eggs
can be found on almost any menu, both on their own and as key
ingredients in many preparations. Bechamel sauce, for example, has a
milk base. Cream, creme fralche, sour cream, and yogurt are used to
prepare salad dressings and many baked goods. Butter is used as a
chief ingredient in numerous baked goods and as a
cooking fat. Cheese may be served as a separate
course with fruit, or as part of another dish
Eggs appear on their own as well as in
breakfast dishes, dessert souffles, and
numerous sauces.
CHAPTER
purchasing and storage

D airy p ro d u cts and eggs are highly perishable; f o r these
W hen co n sid e rin g storag e arra ng em en ts fo r da iry
reasons, c a re fu l purchasing and storag e procedures are
p ro d u cts, fla v o r tra n s fe r is a p a rtic u la r concern. M ilk,
e x tre m e ly im p o rta n t.
M ilk and cream co n ta in e rs are c u s to m a rily dated
cream, and b u tte r should be sto re d away fro m fo o d s

w ith s tro n g odors, such as onions. Cheeses should be
to in d ica te how long th e c o n te n ts w ill rem ain fre sh . The
c a re fu lly w ra pp ed to m aintain m oistness, and to pre ven t
fre sh n e ss p e rio d s va ry betw een con tain ers; th e re fo re ,
fla v o r tra n s fe r to and fro m o th e r foo ds.
to avoid c o n ta m in a tio n , m ilk and cream fro m d iffe re n t
Eggs should be re frig e ra te d and th e s to c k ro ta te d to
con tain ers should never be com bined. U n fo rtu n a te ly ,
ensure th a t only fre sh , w holesom e eggs are served. A ll
d e te c tin g spoilage by sim p ly sm ellin g o r ta s tin g unheat
eggs should be in sp e cte d c a re fu lly upon delivery, m ak
ed m ilk is o fte n im p ossib le . W hen used in h o t dishes,
ing sure th a t shells are clean and fre e o f cracks. Eggs
m ilk o r cream should be b ro u g h t to a boil b e fo re adding
w ith broken shells should be discard ed because o f the
i t t o o th e r in g re d ie n ts. If th e m ilk curdles, it should not
high ris k o f co n ta m in a tio n .
be used.
dairy products
MILK
b e fo re and a fte r processing. Farm s and anim als (cows,
M ilk is a key in g re d ie n t in m o st kitche ns, w h e th e r it is

served as a beverage o r used as a co m p o n e n t in v a ri
ous dishes. U.S. fe d e ra l re g u la tio n s govern how m ilk is
produced and sold to ensure th a t it is clean and safe
to consume. M o s t m ilk sold in the U n ited S ta te s has
been pa steurized. In p a ste u riza tio n , th e m ilk is heated
to 1 4 5 F /6 3 C f o r 30 m in utes or to 1 6 1 F /7 2 C f o r 15
seconds, in o rd e r to kilt b a cte ria o r o th e r organism s th a t
could cause in fe c tio n o r c o n ta m in a tio n . M ilk p ro d u cts
sheep, and go ats) are also in spected, to ensure th a t san

ita ry co n d itio n s are upheld. M ilk th a t has been p ro p e rly
produced and processed is labeled Grade A.
M ilk com es in variou s fo rm s and is cla s s ifie d a cco rd
ing to its pe rcen ta ge o f f a t and m ilk solids. The ta b le
on th e ne xt page de scrib es ava ila ble fo rm s o f m ilk and
cream and th e ir com m on cu lin a ry uses.
CREAM
w ith a higher pe rcen ta ge o f m ilk f a t than w hole m ilk
M ilk, as it com es fro m th e cow, goat, or sheep, contains
are heated to e ith e r 1 5 0 F /6 6 C f o r 30 m in utes or to
a ce rta in pe rcen ta ge o f f a t known as m ilk f a t or but-
1 6 6 F /7 4 C f o r 30 seconds f o r u ltra p a s te u riz a tio n .

The da te stam pe d on m ilk and cream ca rto n s can be
t e r f a t . O rigina lly, m ilk was allow ed to s e ttle long enough

f o r th e cream, w hich is lig h te r than the m ilk, to rise to
seven, ten, o r s ixte e n days fro m th e p o in t o f p a ste u riza
th e surface. Today, a c e n trifu g e is used to spin the m ilk.
tio n . It is an in d ic a to r o f how long th e unopened p ro d u c t
The cream is driven to th e center, w here it can be easily
w ill rem ain fre s h and w holesom e, assum ing th a t i t has
draw n o ff, leaving th e m ilk behind.
been p ro p e rly s to re d and handled.

G enerally, m ilk is hom ogenized, w hich means th a t it
Cream, like m ilk, is hom ogenized and pasteurized,

and may also be sta b iliz e d to help extend s h e lf life .
has been fo rc e d th ro u g h an u ltra fin e mesh a t high p re s
Some chefs p re fe r cream th a t has n o t been sta b ilize d or
sure to break up th e f a t glob ule s it contains. This fa t is
u ltra p a s te u riz e d , because th e y believe it w ill w hip to a
then dispe rsed evenly th ro u g h o u t th e m ilk, p re ve n tin g
g re a te r volum e. Three fo rm s o f cream are used in m ost
it fro m ris in g to th e surface. M ilk may also be fo r t if ie d
kitche ns: heavy cream , w h ip p in g cream, and lig h t cream.
w ith vita m in s A and D. L o w -fa t and skim m ilk are a lm o st
H a lf-a n d -h a lf (a c o m b in a tio n o f w hole m ilk and cream)
always fo r tifie d , because rem oving th e f a t also rem oves
does n o t con tain enough m ilk fa t to be considered a tru e
fa t-s o lu b le vitam ins.
cream ; its m ilk f a t c o n te n t is a p p ro x im a te ly 10.5 p e r
S ta te and local go vern m ent stan dard s fo r m ilk are
cent. See th e ta b le on th e next page.
fa irly co n siste n t. M ilk p ro d u c ts are c a re fu lly in spe cte d
182
O *
P
I*
Forms of Milk and Cream
i-i
FORM
DESCRIPTION*
NONFAT OR SKIM M ILK
C ontains less tha n 0 .2 5 % m ilk fa t
As beverage. To enrich dishes. In

baked goods, de sse rts
REDUCED-FAT M ILK
C ontains 1% o r 2 % m ilk fa t, labeled

a cco rd in g ly
As beverage. To enrich dishes. In

baked goods, de sse rts
C ontains 3 .5 % m ilk fa t
In becham el sauce. As beverage. To

en rich dishes. In baked goods,
o
Q -
WHOLE M ILK
C
n
r+
in
d e sse rts
H A LF-A N D -H A LF
C ontains 10 .5% m ilk fa t
As ta b le o r c o ffe e cream. To enrich

soups and sauces. In baked goods,
d e s s e rts
LIG HTCREAM
C ontains 1 8 % m ilk fa t
As ta b le o r c o ffe e cream . To enrich

soups and sauces. In baked goods,
d e sse rts
W HIPPING CREAM
As w h ipp ed cream , cold m ousses. To

enrich soups and sauces. In baked
goods, d e sse rts
HEAVY CREAM
As w h ip p e d cream , cold m ousses. To

en rich soups and sauces. In baked
goods, d e sse rts
POWDERED OR DRY
M ILK
M ilk fro m w hich w a te r is c o m p le te ly

rem oved; made fro m e ith e r w h ole or
skim m ilk and labeled acco rd in g ly
In baked goods, ch a rcu te rie , and drink

m ixes
EVAPORATED M ILK
M ilk th a t has been he ated in a vacuum to

rem ove 6 0 % o f its w a te r; m ay be made
To enrich cu sta rd s and sauces. In

baked goods and d e sse rts
fro m w h ole o r s kim m ilk and is labeled

a cco rd in g ly
SWEETENED
CONDENSED M ILK
E vap ora te d m ilk th a t has been

sw eetened
In candies, pies, puddings, baked

goods, dulce de leche
YOGURT
L ig h tly fe rm e n te d w ith a b a c te ria l s tra in

o r cu ltu re d . C ontains less tha n 0 .2 5 % to
3 .5 % m ilk fa t, labeled a cco rd in g ly
W ith fr u it . In soups, sauces, baked

goods, d e sse rts
SOUR CREAM
T reate d w ith la c tic acid cu ltu re .

To en rich soups and sauces. In baked

goods, d e sse rts
"The fa t percentages given here are minimums required by FDA labeling regulations.
Some products, such as heavy cream, may contain a higher percentage of milk fat.
ch a p te r 9 D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
183
ICE CREAM
The b e s t-q u a lity b u tte r has a sw e e t flavo r, s im ila r to

very fre s h heavy cream. If s a lt has been added, it should
In o rd e r to m ee t g o ve rn m e n t stan dard s o f id e n tity , any

p ro d u c t labeled as ice cream m ust con tain a ce rta in
am ount o f m ilk fa t. For vanilla, it is no less than 10 p e r
cent. For any o th e r fla vo r, th e re q u ire m e n t is 8 percent.
S ta b iliz e rs can make up no m ore than 2 p e rc e n t o f the
ice cream . Frozen d a iry fo o d s th a t co n ta in less f a t m ust
be labeled as ice m ilk. Prem ium ice cream m ay contain
several tim e s m ore fa t tha n th e m inim um re q u ire d by
th e se stan dard s. The ric h e s t ice cream s have a custa rd
base (a m ix tu re o f cream a n d /o r m ilk and eggs), which
gives the m a rich, sm oo th te x tu re .
When ice cream m e lts a t room te m p e ra tu re th e re
should be no sep ara tion. The appearance o f "w eeping"
in m e ltin g ice cream in d ica te s an excessive am ount o f
s ta b ilize rs.
O th e r fro z e n d e sse rts s im ila r to ice cream include
ge la to , sh e rb e t, so rb e t, fro z e n yo g u rt, and fro z e n des
se rts made w ith soy o r rice m ilk. G elato is Ita lia n fo r
"ice cream"; tho ugh sim ilar, g e la to con tain s less air than
A m erican ice cream, g ivin g it a denser, cre a m ie r te x
ture. S he rbe t does n o t con tain cream , so it is fa r low er
in b u tte rfa t than ice cream ; however, it does con tain a
re la tiv e ly high pe rcentage o f sugar in o rd e r to achieve
th e c o rre c t te x tu re and co n siste n cy when fro ze n . Some
be b a rely d e te c ta b le . The c o lo r o f b u tte r w ill vary de

pending upon th e breed o f cow and tim e o f year, b u t it is
usually a pale yellow .
The de sig n a tio n sw e e t b u t t e r in d ica te s only th a t the
b u tte r is made fro m sw e e t cream (as opposed to sour).
If u n salte d b u tte r is desired, be sure th a t th e w ord un
s a lte d appears on th e package.
S alte d b u tte r may con tain a m axim um o f 2 pe rcen t
salt. The s a lt can aid in e xte n d in g b u tte rs sh e lf life , but
can also m ask a s lig h tly "o ld fla v o r or arom a. Old b u t
te r w ill ta ke on a very fa in t cheese fla v o r and aroma,
esp ecially when heated. As it con tinu es to d e te rio ra te ,
th e fla v o r and arom a can becom e q u ite pronounced and
e x tre m e ly unpleasant, much tike sour o r curdled m ilk.
The b e s t-q u a lity b u tte r, labeled Grade AA, is made
fro m sw e e t cream and has th e b e st flavo r, color, aroma,
and te x tu re . Grade A b u tte r also is o f e xce lle n t quality.
B oth grades AA and A con tain a m inim um o f 8 0 pe rcen t
fa t. Grade B may have a s lig h tly acidic ta s te , as it is
made fro m sour cream.
FERMENTED AND CULTURED MILK

PRODUCTS
sh e rb e ts con tain a percentage o f e ith e r eggs o r m ilk, or
Y ogurt, sour cream , crem e fratche, and b u tte rm ilk are all
bo th. A lth o u g h th e w ord "s h e rb e t is th e clo se st English
pro du ced by in o c u la tin g m ilk o r cream w ith a b a cte ria l
tra n s la tio n o f th e French w o rd sorbet, so rb e ts are com
s tra in th a t causes fe rm e n ta tio n to begin. The fe rm e n ta
m only un d e rsto o d to con tain no m ilk.
tio n process th icke n s the m ilk and gives it a ple a sa n tly
Frozen y o g u rt and soy and rice m ilk fro z e n de sserts

o fte n con tain sta b iliz e rs . They may be lo w er in to ta l fa t
sour flavo r.
Y ogurt is made by in tro d u c in g the p ro p e r cultu re
than ice cream, or even fa t-fre e , b u t som e brands are
in to m ilk (whole, lo w -fa t, o r n o n fa t may be used).
s till high in calorie s because o f a high sugar con tent.
A vailable in a v a rie ty o f c o n ta in e r sizes, y o g u rt can be
Test a v a rie ty o f th e se p ro d u cts to d e te rm in e which

brands o ffe r th e be st q u a lity fo r th e b e st price. R e fe r to
C hapter 3 4 f o r in fo rm a tio n ab ou t p re p a rin g fro z e n des
purchased plain o r fla v o re d w ith d iffe re n t fru its , honey,

c o ffe e , o r o th e r in gre die nts.
Sour cream is a c u ltu re d sw e e t cream th a t contains
se rts in your own kitchen.
ab o u t 18 p e rc e n t m ilk fa t. It com es in con tain ers o f v a ri
BUTTER
version s o f sour cream are available.
ous sizes, beginning w ith a h a lf p int. L o w -fa t and n o n fa t
Anyone who has a c cid e n ta lly ove rw h ipp ed cream has

been w e ll on th e w ay to pro du cing b u tte r. H is to ric a lly ,
b u tte r was churned by hand. Today it is made m echani
cally by high-speed m ixing o f cream th a t con tain s be
tw e e n 30 and 45 p e rce n t m ilk fa t. Eventually, th e m ilk
fa t clum ps to g e th e r, se p a ra tin g o u t in to a solid mass,
which is b u tte r; th e flu id th a t rem ains is re fe rre d to as
b u tte rm ilk (m o st b u tte rm ilk sold tod ay, however, is non
fa t m ilk th a t has been cultured).
184
Creme fra tch e is sim ita r to sour cream b u t has a

s lig h tly m ore rounded fla vo r, w ith less b ite . It is o fte n
p re fe ra b le in coo kin g because it te n d s to curd le less
re a d ily than sour cream when used in h o t dishes. This
p ro d u c t is made fro m heavy cream w ith a b u tte rfa t
c o n te n t o f a p p ro x im a te ly 30 pe rcen t. The high b u tte rfa t
c o n te n t helps account f o r its higher cost.
B u tte rm ilk , s tr ic tly speaking, is the b y-p ro d u ct o f
churned b u tte r. M o s t b u tte rm ilk sold to d a y is a ctu ally
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
Q -
n o n fa t o r re d u c e d -fa t m ilk to w hich a b a c te ria l s tra in
tra c e enzymes, and chem icals, which the n cause cu rd
has been added. U sually sold in p in ts o r quarts, b u tte r
ing. (The re m a in in g liquid is known as th e whey.) Some
m ilk is also ava ila ble as a d rie d pow der f o r baking uses.
P
i
i- i
^<1
cheeses are made w ith added acid, such as lemon juice.

The curds are the n processed in various ways, depend
CHEESE
The v a rie ty o f cheeses produced th ro u g h o u t th e w o rld is
extensive, ranging fro m m ild fre s h cheeses (p o t cheese
o r c o tta g e cheese) to s tro n g ly fla v o re d blue-veined
cheeses (R o q u e fo rt o r G orgonzola) and hard g ra tin g
cheeses (Parm igiano-R eggiano o r dry M o n te re y Jack).
Some cheeses are e xce lle n t f o r cooking, w h ile o th e rs
ing on th e ty p e o f cheese desired. They may be drained
and used im m e d ia te ly, as fre s h cheese, o r th e y may be
Q -
pressed, shaped, in o cu la te d w ith a special m old, and
aged.
n
c+
GO
T ra d itio n a lly made cheeses are considered "livin g"

in much th e same w ay th a t w ine is. The cheese w ill con
tin u e to develop o r age to m a tu rity (ripening), and fin a lly
spo il (overripening). Processed o r p a steurized cheeses
are b e st served on th e ir own.

The name o f a cheese can be de rive d fro m place o f
origin , m a n u fa ctu rin g process, o r ty p e o f m ilk or in g re
dien t. P ecorino cheeses are an e xce lle n t illu s tra tio n
o f how a cheese is named. Pecorino de no te s th a t the
cheese is made o f sheeps m ilk; P ecorino Romano and
Pecorino M ug ello are sheep's m ilk cheeses fro m nearby
Rome and M ugello, re sp e ctive ly.
M o s t cheeses are made th ro u g h th e fo llo w in g p ro
cedure: M ilk is com bined w ith th e a p p ro p ria te s ta rte r
(e ith e r rennet, w hich con tain s an enzyme, o r an acid such
as ta rta ric acid o r lem on ju ice), causing th e m ilk solids
to coa gu late in to curds o r causing th e c re a tio n o f acid,
and cheese fo o d s, on th e o th e r hand, do n o t ripen and

th e ir c h a ra cte r w ill n o t change.
Cheese is made fro m a v a rie ty o f d iffe re n t m ilk s
cow's m ilk, g o at's m ilk, sheep's m ilk, and even w a te r b u f
falo 's m ilk. The ty p e o f m ilk used w ill help to determ ine
th e cheese's u ltim a te fla v o r and te x tu re . Cheeses may
be gro up ed acco rding to th e ty p e o f m ilk fro m which
th e y are made, o r by te x tu re , age, or rip e n in g process.
This book ca te g o rize s cheese as fre s h cheeses; s o f t /
rin d -rip e n e d cheeses; s e m is o ft cheeses; hard cheeses;
g ra tin g cheeses; and blue-veined cheeses. See the
ta b le s on pages 1 8 7 to 197.
185
fresh cheeses
unripened, high in m o istu re , and g e ne rally have a fresh,
These cheeses are m o is t and
ve ry s o ft. They have a fla v o r th a t is g e n e ra lly te rm e d
cream y, clean fla vo r. They are ty p ic a lly th e m ost p e rish
mild, b u t fre s h cheese made fro m goat's o r sheep's m ilk
able o f cheeses and are som e tim es held in brines.
may be s lig h tly ta n g y and strong . Fresh cheeses are
SOFT ASH GOAT C H EESE
CH EESE CURD
QUESO FRESCO
M ASCARP0N E
COTTAGE CHEESE
RICOTTA
BOURSIN
F A R M E R S CH EESE
186
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
CHEVRE/GOATCHEESE
G o a ts m ilk. W h ite block, pyram id,
In spreads, fillin g s , salads
b u tto n , w heel, o r log. M ild to ta n g y

(depending on age); may be fla v o re d w ith
herbs or p e pp ercorn s. S o ft to crum b ly,
de pe nd ing on age. M o n tra c h e t is a
p o p u la r brand
COTTAGE CHEESE
W hole o r skim cow's m ilk. Packaged in

tu b s. W h ite curds. M ild. S o ft, m o is t
W ith fr u it . In dips
CREAM CHEESE
W hole cow's m ilk plus cream . W h ite
In spreads, dips. As cooking

in g re d ie n t. In baked goods and
d e s s e rts
block. M ild, s lig h tly tan gy. S o ft, cream y.

A lso known as N e u fc h a te l in m any
p a rts o f th e U n ite d S ta te s (w ith a low er
f a t c o n te n t), a lth ou gh N e u fc h a te l is a
d iffe r e n t cheese in France
FETA
Sheep's, goat's, o r cow s m ilk. W h ite

block. Tangy and sa lty. S o ft, cru m b ly
In salads. As a co o kin g in gre die nt.

Used in spa na kop ita
FR O M AG EBLAN C
W hole or skim cow's m ilk. W hite. M ild,

tan gy. S o ft, s lig h tly cru m b ly
As co o kin g in g re d ie n t
MASCARPONE
Cow's cream . Form less, packaged in

tu b s. Pale yellow . B u tte ry , sw eet, rich.
S o ft, sm oo th
W ith fr u it . In tira m is u .T o enrich

dishes
M O ZZAR ELLA
W hole o r skim cow's o r w a te r b u ffa lo 's

m ilk. Irre g u la r sphere. W h ite w ith
On pizza, pasta. W ith to m a to e s and

ba sil in a caprese salad. As a cooking
in g re d ie n t
g re e n is h -y e llo w tin t. M ild. S pring y to

te n d e r o r s o ft, de pe nd ing on age. M ay be
sm oked
RICOTTA
W hole, skim , o r lo w -fa t cow's m ilk.

Packaged in tub s. S o ft w h ite curds; m ild.
M o is t to s lig h tly dry. Grainy. O fte n a
b y-p ro d u ct o f cheese m aking, by adding
rennet, acid, o r both to whey a fte r heating
FARMER'S CHEESE
fresh cheeses
Fresh Cheeses
As co o kin g in g re d ie n t. In d e sse rts; as

a f illin g f o r cannoli. M akes e xce lle n t
cheesecake
Cow's m ilk. W hite. C urdless; firm enough

to cut. M ild. Grainy, spoonable
W ith fre s h f r u it and veg etab le s. In
BOURSIN
W hole cow s m ilk and cream . W h ite

round. F lavored o r herbed cream cheese
spread. S m ooth
In spreads, o r as a spread on its own
QUESOFRESCO
C ows m ilk. O ff-w h ite to w h ite rounds.

M ild, sa lty. S im ila r to ric o tta o r fa rm e r's
cheese. C rum bly, s lig h tly gra in y
As to p p in g o r f illin g f o r m any
M exican dishes
dips, d e sse rts, pasta
c h a p te r 9 D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
187
soft/rind-ripened cheeses
ripe, m o st s o ft cheeses should bulge (at room te m p e ra
S o ft/rin d -rip e n e d cheeses usually have a surface m old.
tu re ) when cut, and have a fu ll fla vo r. These cheeses are
This s o ft, v e lv e ty skin is edible, tho ugh som e people
ty p ic a lly sprayed o r du sted w ith a m old and the n allow ed
fin d it to o s tro n g to enjoy. M any o f the se cheeses have a
to ripen. S o ft ripened cheeses are available w ith v a ry
washed rind. These are p e rio d ic a lly w ashed w ith a liquid
ing degrees o f richness. For exam ple, single, double, and
such as beer, cider, wine, o r brandy durin g ripening. The
trip le cream cheeses have 5 0 ,6 0 , and 70 pe rce n t b u t
cheese ripens fro m th e o u tsid e to th e center. W hen fu lly
te rfa t, re sp e ctive ly.
TALEGGIO
PO N TL'E VE Q U E
REBLO CHO N
EX PLO R A T E U R
HUDSON V A L L E Y C A M E M B ER T
l8 8
VARIETY
BRIE
DESCRIPTION
P a ste u rize d w hole o r skim cow's o r
Table cheese. In sandw iches, salads
go at's m ilk, so m e tim e s cream . L ig h t

y e llo w w heels. B u tte ry , pungent.
S o ft, sm ooth, w ith ed ib le rind;
cream y
CAMEMBERT
Raw o r p a ste u rize d w h ole cow's
Table cheese. In sandw iches
o r goat's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w d isk o r

square. M ild, m u sh ro o m -like fla v o r.
S o ft, cream y, w ith ed ib le rind
EXPLORATEUR
W hole cow's m ilk and cream . Pale
Table cheese. E xce lle n t w ith Champagne
ye llo w ba rrels, disks, or w heels. Rich,

m ild; s o ft, cream y, sm oo th
LIMBURGER
W hole o r lo w -fa t cow's m ilk. L ig h t
Table cheese, w ith f r u it and veg etab le s
ye llo w block, brow n e x te rio r. V ery

s tro n g fla v o r and arom a, sa lty . S o ft,
sm oo th , w axy
PO NTLEVEQUE
W hole cow s m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w
Table cheese. In d e sse rts, crepes, salads
square. P iquant, s tro n g arom a. S o ft,

supple, w ith sm all holes and ed ib le
g o ld e n -y e llo w rind; washed rind
TALEGGIO
Raw cow's m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w square.

T art, sa lty , b u tte ry , and p o w e rfu l
(depending on age). Has som e sm all
holes; washed rind
Table cheese. In salads. As cooking

in g re d ie n t
EPOISSES
Cows m ilk. Blond, a lm o s t s tra w co lo re d disks. Rich, huge fla v o r;

p le a s a n tly sm elly, b a rn y a rd -lik e
arom a. S m ooth; washed rind
Table cheese. As dish accom panim ent
REBLOCHON
Cow's m ilk. Ivory disk. Sweet,
Table cheese, w ith f r u it o r bread
p o w e rfu l, n u tty . Cream y, ve lve ty;

w ashed rind
c h a p te r 9 D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
soft/rind-ripened cheeses
Soft/Rind-Ripened Cheeses
semisoft cheeses
Semisoft cheeses are
time, though not quite as long as hard or grating cheeses.
more solid than soft cheeses; while they do not grate
Semisoft cheeses may be ripened through one of three
easily, they are ideal for slicing. A significant character
processes: washed rind; natural rind cheeses are al
istic of these cheeses is their use as a melting cheese.
lowed to form a rind during ripening; and wax-rind
These cheeses are allowed to age for specific periods of
cheeses are sealed in wax prior to aging.
CARAW AY HAVARTI
CACIOTTA
M U EN STER
MORBIER
M O N T ER E Y JACK
190
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
CACIOTTA
W hole cow s m ilk cheese. S e m is o ft w ith
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
som e curd holes and a th ic k , ye llo w ish

wax. Aged f o r 2 m onths. M e llo w and
savory; ava ila ble fla v o re d w ith chiles or
herbs
FONTINA
W hole cow's or sheep's m ilk. M edium

ye llo w wheel. M ild, grassy, f r u ity , n u tty
Table cheese. In sandw iches. As

co o kin g in g re d ie n t. In fon due s. G reat
m e ltin g cheese
HAVARTI
C re am -en rich ed cow's m ilk. W h ite to

lig h t ye llo w blocks o r w heels. Very m ild,
Table cheese. G reat on sandw iches
semisoft cheeses
Semisoft Cheeses
b u tte ry , o fte n fla v o re d w ith herbs, spices,

or peppers. Cream y, w ith sm all holes
MORBIER
W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel

w ith in te rn a l ed ib le ash layer; brow n
cru st. Creamy, sm oo th . F ru ity , n u tty ,
Table cheese. As a coo kin g in gre die nt.

In o m e le ts, crepes
w ith h a y-like arom a

M O NTEREY JACK
W hole p a ste u rize d cow s m ilk. L ig h t

ye llo w w h ee l o r block. M ild ; m ay be
fla v o re d w ith ja la p e n o s
MUENSTER
W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel
o r block; rin d m ay be orange. M ild to

pungent, de pe nd ing on age. S m ooth,
w a xy w ith sm all holes
PORT-SALUT
W hole o r lo w -fa t cow s m ilk. Y ellow

block; orange rind. B u tte ry , m e llo w to
sharp. S m oo th w ith tin y holes
Table cheese, w ith raw onions and

beer. G re a t m e ltin g cheese
c h a p te r 9 D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
191
firm cheeses
Firm cheeses have a firm and
originated in England, but a variety of cheeses that
drier texture than semisoft cheeses and a firm consis
originated in the United States are made using the same
tency. They slice and grate easily. Cheeses that fall into
method. Some examples are Colby, Monterey Jack, and
this category are made by varying processes. One of
dry Jack cheeses.
the most common is Cheddar. The cheddaring process
M AN CH EGO
EM M E N TALE R
G R U YE R E
AGED
PROVOLONE
AGED GOUDA
RICOTTA SALATA
AGED CHEDDAR
AGED PECORINO
(ANTICO M UGELLO )
192
!= b
H-i
Firm Cheeses
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
CANTAL
W hole cow s m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w cylinder.

M ild, b u tte ry fla vo r. C rum bly, firm
Table cheese. In salads, sandw iches.

W ith f r u it
CHEDDAR
W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t to m edium

ye llo w w heels o r re cta n g le s. M ild to
sharp, de pe nd ing on age. S w e et gra ssy
arom a. B u tte ry , rich
EMMENTALER
Raw o r p a ste u rize d p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk.

L ig h t ye llo w w heel. Full fla v o re d , n u tty ,
fru ity . S m ooth, shiny, w ith large holes.
Table cheese, w ith beer. In

sandw iches. As coo kin g in gre die nt.
G reat m e ltin g cheese
O)
rt)
in
a>
m
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese.

In fon due s, sandw iches
C om m only called S w iss cheese

GOUDA
W hole cow s m ilk. W heel, usually coa ted

w ith red wax; ranges fro m go ld en to
am ber, de pe nd ing on age. M ild, cream y,
s lig h tly n u tty fla v o r. S m oo th, may have
tin y holes. M ay be sm oked
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese.

Aged Gouda can be g ra te d
JARLSBERG
P a rt-s k im cow s m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w wheel.

Sharp, n u tty fla v o r. Large holes. Very
po p u la r in th e U n ite d S ta te s
MANCHEGO
W hole sheep's m ilk. W h ite to ye llo w ish

w heel; bro w n ish -g ra y ba ske t-w e a ve rind.
S lig h tly briny, n u tty fla v o r. T iny holes
Table cheese. In salads. Can be gra te d
PROVOLONE
W hole cow s m ilk. Shaped like a pear,

sausage, o r round ball. Pale ye llo w w ith
ye llo w to g o ld e n -b ro w n rind. Sharp
Table cheese, w ith olives, bread, raw

veg e ta b le s, salam i. In sandw iches.
G re a t m e ltin g cheese
fla v o r. E lastic, oily. M ay be sm oked

RICOTTASALATA
W hole sheep's m ilk. Pure w h ite cylinder.

S alty, n u tty fla vo r. S m oo th b u t cru m b ly
In pasta, salads. Table cheese, w ith

salam i, fr u it, and veg etab le s
GRUYERE
W hole raw cow's m ilk. F la t beige w heels

w ith brow n rind. F ru ity , n u tty fla v o r.
In fon d u e , g ra tin s , soups, sandw iches.

As co o kin g in g re d ie n t
S m oo th; may have c ry s ta ls
Chapter 9 D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
193
hard cheeses
in large p a rt, to th e long aging process th a t ty p ic a lly
Hard cheeses are ty p ic a lly g ra t
la sts fro m tw o to seven years, alth ou gh some cheeses
ed or shaved ra th e r tha n cu t in to slices because o f th e ir

granular te x tu re . In Italy, th e se cheeses are known as
may be aged f o r lo ng er periods. They are ve ry hard, low-
granas (grainy cheeses) because o f th e ir gra n u la r te x
m o is tu re cheeses, m aking th e m less prone to spoilage
tu re . The c h a ra c te ris tic te x tu re o f hard cheeses is due,
than o th e r cheeses.
ASIAGO
PARM IGIANO -REGGIANO
PECORINO ROM ANO
G R A N A PADANO
' > * it
- .
.
jy
' * ' r '*
DRY M O N T ER E Y JACK
QUESO COTIJA
194
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
ASIAGO
W hole o r p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. L ig h t
In salads, pasta. Table cheese, w ith

f r u it and bread
ye llo w w heels w ith gra y rind. M ild to

sharp fla vo r, de pe nd ing on age
PARM IG IANOREGGIANO
P a rt-s k im cow s m ilk. Large drum s,

stra w -c o lo re d in te rio r w ith go ld en rind.
Sharp, n u tty , s a lty fla v o r. Very hard, dry,
crum b ly
Table cheese. G rated over pasta

or ris o tto . In salads. Rind is used in
ve g e ta b le s to c k s and soups
DRY M O NTEREY JACK
W hole o r p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. Pale

yellow . Rich, sharp, s lig h tly n u tty fla v o r
Table cheese. G rated over pasta.

Aged used in salads
PECORINO ROMANO
W hole sheep's m ilk. Tall cylin d e rs, w h ite

w ith th in , black rind. V ery sharp, sa lty,
p e p p e ry fla v o r. Dry, cru m b ly
Table cheese. G rated over pasta or

ris o tto . In salads
SAP S AG O /G LAR N ER
S kim cow s m ilk. L ig h t green fla tte n e d

cone. P iquant, sharp, sa g e -a n d -le ttu c e
fla vo r. Very hard, gra n u la r
G rated on noodles, salads, o r soups.

M ixe d w ith b u tte r o r y o g u rt in dips
Cows m ilk. Drum s, go ld en co lo re d . M ild

fla v o r. V ery hard
G rated. As a less-expensive
a lte rn a tiv e to P arm igiano-R eggiano
fo r coo kin g
SCHABZIGER
G RANAPADANO
Chapter 9 D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
hard cheeses
Hard Cheeses
195
blue-veined cheeses
B lue-veined
b e fo re ripening. A fte r being in je c te d w ith th e mold,
cheeses have con sisten cies th a t range fro m sm oo th and
the se cheeses are the n sa lte d or brine d b e fo re being
cream y to dry and crum bly. T h e ir blue veinin g is
allow ed to rip en in dark, cool, dam p con ditions.
th e re s u lt o f a special m old th e cheese is exposed to
ROQUEFORT
SPANISH BLUE
196
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
DANISH BLUE
W hole cow's m ilk. W h ite b locks or

drum s, no rind. S tron g, sharp, s a lty
fla v o r. Firm , cru m b ly
In dressings, salads, spreads. Sliced.

As a co o kin g in g re d ie n t
GORGONZOLA
W hole cow's a n d /o r g o at's m ilk. M edium

y e llo w w heel w ith blue m arb lin g. Tangy,
p iq u a n t fla vo r. S e m is o ft, cream y;
Table cheese, w ith fr u it. In salads,

pizza, spreads. As coo kin g in gre die nt.
Sliced
crum b les w e ll
ROQUEFORT
Raw sheep's m ilk. Ivory c y lin d e r w ith

blue -gree n m arb lin g. Deep, fu ll, spicy
fla v o r. S e m is o ft, cru m b ly
STILTON
W hole cow s m ilk. Tall cylinde r, iv o ry co lo re d pa ste w ith b lu e -gree n m arb lin g.
Full, rich; cheesy fla v o r, sp icy arom a.
Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking

in g re d ie n t.
blue-veined cheeses
Blue-Veined Cheeses

in g re d ie n t.
F irm y e t cru m b ly
SPANISH BLUE
Cow's, sheeps, o r go a t's m ilk. S tra w co lo re d c y lin d e r w ith p u rp lis h -b lu e

veins. S alty, sharp, ta n g y fla vo r. M o is t,
crum b ly. Com mon v a rie ty is Cabrales

in g re d ie n t
AM ERICAN ARTISANSTYLE BLUE CHEESE
Exam ples are P oint Reyes and M aytag.
Table cheese. In dressings, salads. As
Range in fla v o r and te x tu re , and ty p e o f

m ilk
a co o kin g in g re d ie n t
197
eggs
Eggs are one o f th e kitchen's m o st im p o rta n t item s.
eggs appearance is im p o rta n t. Large and extra -la rg e
From m ayonnaise to m eringues, soups to sauces, appe
eggs are g e n e ra lly used f o r coo kin g and baking, where
tiz e rs to de sserts, th e y are p ro m in e n t on any menu. The
th e w hole egg's appearance is less critic a l.
a b ility to se le c t th e rig h t egg f o r a p a rtic u la r dish (shell

egg, yolks only, w h ite s only, o r pa ste u rize d eggs) is c r it i
Eggs are also sold in several processed form s:

bulk or flu id w hole eggs (which so m e tim es includes a
cal to its success. To learn m ore a b o u t coo kin g eggs, see
pe rcen ta ge o f e xtra yolks to o b ta in a sp e c ific blend),
C h ap te r 26.
egg w h ite s, and egg yolks. P asteurized eggs are used in

p re p a ra tio n s such as salad dressings, eggnog, or des
GRADING, SIZES, AND FORMS

Eggs are graded by th e U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re
on the basis o f e xte rn a l appearance and freshness. The
to p grade, AA, in d ica te s th a t th e egg is fre sh , w ith a
w h ite th a t w ill n o t spread unduly once th e egg is broken,
and a yolk th a t rid es high on th e w h ite's surface. The yolk
should also be anchored in place by m em branes known
as th e chalazae.
Eggs come in a num ber o f sizes: jum bo, e xtra large,
large, m edium , sm all, and peewee. Younger hens, also
known as p u lle ts, produce sm a lle r eggs, w hich are o fte n
regarded as b e tte r q u a lity than la rg e r eggs. M edium
eggs are b e st f o r b re a k fa s t cookery, where th e cooked
serts, w here th e tra d itio n a l recipe may have in d ica te d

th a t th e eggs should be raw. These p ro d u cts ge ne rally
are available in liq u id o r fro z e n fo rm .
D ried pow dered eggs are also available, and may
be use fu l f o r som e baked goods o r in c e rta in circu m
stances. For instance, on board a ship, it may n o t be pos
sible to p ro p e rly s to re fre s h eggs fo r th e d u ra tio n o f a
voyage.
Egg s u b s titu te s may be e n tire ly e g g -fre e o r may be
produced fro m egg w h ite s, w ith da iry or v eg etab le p ro d
ucts s u b s titu te d f o r th e yolks. These s u b s titu te s are
im p o rta n t fo r people who req uire a re d u ce d -ch o le ste ro l
diet.
dry goods
identification
Dry goods include a wide range of ingredients that are essential to almost every
preparation in any foodservice operation. They must be chosen, purchased, and
stored with the same degree of care as required by fresh meats or produce
CHAPTER
10
mm#
SSSSS
I
purchasing and storage

Dry goods are also re fe rre d to as no nperishable goods.
S to re d ry goods in an area th a t is dry, p ro p e rly v en
However, like pe rish able goods, the se in g re d ie n ts lose
tila te d , and accessible. A ll goods should be placed above
q u a lity over tim e . Keeping an adequate s to c k on hand is
flo o r level on shelving o r p a lle ts. Some d ry item s, such
e sse n tia l to a sm o o th -ru n n in g o p e ra tio n , b u t having to o
as w hole grains, nuts and seeds, and c o ffe e ( if th e y are
much tie s up necessary space and money. R o ta tin g dry
n o t vacuum packed, and a fte r th e seals are broken), are
goods and o b se rvin g a rule o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" is ju s t
b e st s to re d in th e re frig e ra to r o r even th e freeze r.
as im p o rta n t f o r d ry goods as it is f o r m ore pe rish able

foo ds.
grains, meals, and flours

This broad ca te g o ry exte nds fro m w hole grains such
and th e re fo re should be purchased in am ounts th a t
as rice and ba rle y to cornm eal and p a s try flo u r. Grains
can be used in a re la tiv e ly s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e tw o
are v e rs a tile and universal fo o d s enjoyed w o rldw id e,
to th re e weeks. M ille d grains have been polished; th a t
in every cuisine and cu ltu re . W hile th e y are im p o rta n t
is, th e y have had th e germ , bran, a n d /o r hull rem oved.
sources o f n u tritio n , it is also th e ir su b tle b u t s a tis fy
A lth o u g h m ille d grains te n d to la s t longer, som e o f th e ir
ing fla v o rs and te x tu re s th a t give the m such culina ry
n u tritiv e value is lo s t du rin g th e processing.
im p ortan ce.
W hea t and corn are o f p rim a ry im p o rta n ce in
W estern c o u n trie s such as th e U n ited S ta te s and
M ille d grains th a t are broken in to coarse p a rticle s

may be re fe rre d to as cracked. If th e m illin g process
continues, m eals and cereals (cornm eal, fa rin a , Cream o f
Canada. Rice is fu n d a m e n ta l to m any Asian cuisines. In
Rice) are fo rm e d . Finally, th e grain may be ground in to a
fa c t, in many Asian languages, th e w ord f o r rice is the
fin e pow der known as flo u r.
same as th a t f o r fo o d . O th e r c u ltu re s re ly upon grains

such as oats, rye, and buckw heat.
G rains are th e fr u its and seeds o f cereal grasses. For
th e m o st pa rt, th e y are inexpensive and re a d ily a v a il
Various m etho ds are used f o r m illing: crushing be

tw e e n m e ta l ro lle rs, g rin d in g betw een stones, o r c u ttin g
w ith ste e l blades in an actio n s im ila r to th a t o f a fo o d
processor. S to n e -g ro u n d grains may be p re fe ra b le in
able, and pro vid e a valuable and co n ce n tra te d source o f
som e cases, because th e y rem ain a t a low er te m p e ra
n u trie n ts and fib e r. A lth o u g h grains d iff e r in appearance
tu re du rin g p ro cessing com pared to o th e r typ e s o f
fro m o th e r f r u its (apples and pears, f o r exam ple), th e ir
m illin g and so re ta in m ore o f th e ir n u tritiv e value. The
s tru c tu re is q u ite sim ilar.
fo llo w in g ta b le s de scrib e som e o f th e available fo rm s
W hole grains are grains th a t have n o t been m illed.
f o r several d iffe re n t grains.
They te n d to have a s h o rte r life span than m ille d grains
200
greatest amount of protein. Wheat is used in a variety of
been cultivated for thousands of years. It is by far the
savory and sweet dishes. It is versatile and flavorful.
most nutritious of all the staple grains, containing the
ch a p te r 10 DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
w heat
wheat Abundant and economical, wheat has
201
wheat flour
When milled into flour, wheat is
wheat, and soft white winter wheat. (Durum wheat is a
generally used to produce baked items. Gluten, the sub
particular type of hard wheat.) Winter wheat is planted
stance formed from wheats proteins, provides elasticity
in the winter and harvested the following summer;
and structure that aids in the development of baked
spring wheat is planted in the spring and harvested that
goods, specifically bread. Wheat is classified by season
summer. Generally, spring wheat produces the hardest
and color as follows: hard red winter wheat, hard white
flours and winter wheat the softest.
winter wheat, hard red spring wheat, soft red winter
W HOLE WHEAT FLO U R

SEM O LIN A FLO U R
DURUM
FLOUR
A L L-P U R P O S E FLOUR
CA K E FLO U R
BREAD FLO UR
202
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
BERRIES/W HO LE
U n re fin e d o r m in im a lly p ro cesse d w hole

kernels. L ig h t brow n to re d d ish -b ro w n .
S om e w h at chewy. N u tty fla v o r
As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads,

breads
CRACKED
C o arse ly crushed, m in im a lly processed

kernels. L ig h t brow n to re d d ish -b ro w n .
As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads,

breads
S om e w h at chewy. N u tty fla v o r

BULGUR
S team ed, dried , and crushed fin e , m edium , or

coarse. L ig h t brow n. Tender. M ild fla v o r
As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads

(tabb ou leh )
BRAN
S ep ara te d o u te r cove rin g o f w h e a t kernel.
As h o t and cold cereal. In baked

go od s (bran m u ffin s )
Brow n fla ke s. M ild ly n u tty fla v o r

GERM
S ep ara te d em bryo o f w h e a t kernel. Sm all,

goods
brow n, p e lle t-lik e . S tro n g n u tty fla vo r.

A vaila ble to a s te d and raw
FARINA
Polished, m e d iu m -g rin d w heat. W hite, f lo u r

like. Very m ild fla v o r
As h o t cereal
EBLY/TENDER
S o ft, p a rb o ile d durum w h ea t. R esem bles

plum p grains o f rice in raw s ta te . R esem bles
Soups, salads, side dishes,

en tre es, d e sse rts
wheat and wheat flour
Wheat and Wheat Flour
pe arl ba rle y when cooked. S u b tly m ild fla v o r;

a va ila b le raw o r cooked
WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR
Hard w heat. The e n tire ke rn e l is fin e ly m illed .

L ig h t brow n. Full, n u tty fla v o r. Graham flo u r is
In baked goods, pasta, pizza

dough
w h ole w h e a t f lo u r w ith a co a rse r grind

ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
BREAD/PATENT FLOUR
Blend o f hard and s o ft w h ea t. The en do spe rm

is fin e ly m illed . O ff-w h ite . U su ally enriched,
may be bleached
In baked goods, pasta. As

th ic k e n in g agent
Hard w h ea t. The en do spe rm is fin e ly m illed .
In bread, s o ft ro lls
O ff-w h ite . U sually enriched, may be bleached

CAKE FLOUR
S o ft w h ea t. The en dosperm is v e ry fin e ly
In cakes, cookies, dum plings
m illed . Pure w h ite . U sually en rich ed and

bleached
PASTRY FLOUR
S o ft w heat. The en do spe rm is ve ry fin e ly

m illed . Pure w h ite . U sually en rich ed and
bleached
In pie dough, m u ffin s , b iscu its,

p a s trie s
DURUM FLOUR
Hard w h ea t. The en do spe rm fro m th e durum

w h e a t kern el is fin e ly m illed . Pale ye llo w co lo r
In bread, pasta
SEM O LIN A FLOUR
Durum w h ea t. The en do spe rm is coa rsely

m illed . Pale ye llo w
In pasta, gnocchi, puddings.

Used to make couscous
ch a p te r
10 DRY GOODS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
203
r i C e A staple food to at least half of the worlds com
Rice is com m e rcially cla ssifie d by size (long, medium,
munities, rice is an invaluable and versatile ingredient.
and s h o rt grain). The tw o main typ e s o f rice are w h ite and
This starchy whole grain complements nearly any flavor
brown. W h ite rice is m illed, w hile brown rice is unm illed,
component with which its paired.
re s u ltin g in a m ore n u tritio u s and fib e r-p a cke d grain.
BH UT AN ESE RED RICE
CO NVERTED LONG-GRAIN RICE
JASM IN E RICE
204
LO NG-GRAIN BROWN RICE
POPCORN RICE
rice
Rice
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
BROWN
W hole grain, w ith th e in e d ib le husk
In p ila f, salads
rem oved. L ig h t brow n. Chewy te x tu re .

N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble as sh o rt, m edium ,
o r long grain
W HITE/PO LISHED
Husk, bran, and germ rem oved. W hite.

M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble as sh o rt, m edium ,
o r long grain
In p ila f, salads. S h o rt grain used to

make rice pudding
CO NVERTED/
PARBOILED
U nhulled grain soaked and stea m e d

b e fo re th e husk, bran, and ge rm are
In p ila f, salads
rem oved. V ery lig h t brow n color. F lu ffy ,

s e p a ra te gra in s when cooked
BASMATI
E x tra -lo n g grain. Fine, d e lic a te te x tu re .

A ro m a tic , n u tty fla v o r. Aged to reduce
In p ila f, salads
m o is tu re co n te n t. A vaila ble as brow n or

w h ite rice. Popcorn rice is a v a rie ty o f
b a sm a ti
JASMINE
A ro m a tic , d e lic a te fla vo r. Long grain.

W h ite
In p ila f, stea m e d, rice pudding
A R BO R IO /ITALIAN
Very sh o rt, v e ry f a t grain. O ff-w h ite .

High s ta rch co n te n t; cream y when
In ris o tto , pudding
cooked. V a rie tie s include C arnaroli,

P ie dm o ntese , and V ia lo ne Nano
CALASPARA
Very sh o rt, ve ry fa t grain. O ff-w h ite . High
In paella
sta rc h co n te n t; cream y when cooked

W ILD
M arsh grass, u n re la te d to re g u la r rice.

Long, th in grain. D ark brow n. Chewy
te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r
In salads, s tu ffin g , pancakes,

fo rc e m e a ts . O fte n com bined w ith
bro w n rice
S T IC K Y /P E A R L/
G LU TIN O U S/SU SH I
Round, s h o rt grain. Very s ta rch y; s tic k y

when cooked. S w eet, m ild fla v o r
In sushi, d e sse rts, and o th e r culina ry

uses
RICE FLOUR
W h ite rice th a t has been ve ry fin e ly

m illed . Pow dery, w h ite . M ild fla v o r
As th ic k e n in g agent. In baked goods
HEIRLOOM
V a rie tie s include Bhutanese Red,

F orbidd en Black, and K a lijira rice. Length
and c o lo r vary
In salads, s tu ffin g . O fte n com bined

w ith brow n rice
c h a p te r 10 DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
205
corn
Corn is popular in many cuisines throughout
the world in numerous forms. It is often eaten fresh (on
many by-products (bourbon, corn oil, cornstarch, corn

meal, corn syrup).
and off the cob) or dried, and used as the foundation of
GRITS
B LU E C O R N M E A L
C O R N M EA L
m
CORNSTARCH
206
corn
Corn
FORM
DESCRIPTION
H O M INY
D ried kernels, soaked in lye to rem ove

th e hull and germ . A vaila ble canned or
dried
In succotash, casseroles, soups,

stew s, side dishes. In M exican posole
GRITS
G round hom iny. A vaila ble in fine ,
As h o t cereal. In baked goods, side

dishes. P opular in th e sou thern
m edium , and coarse g rind s
U n ite d S ta te s
M ASA
D ried kernels, cooked and soaked in

lim ew a te r, the n ground in to dough. Pale
yellow . M o is t. V a ria tio n : masa harina,
d rie d and ground to a fin e flo u r. M u s t be
re c o n s titu te d to make a dough
CORNMEAL
D ried kernels, ground to fin e , m edium ,

o r coarse te x tu re . W hite, yellow , o r blue.
V a ria tio n s: corn flo u r (fin e ly ground);
Used to make to r tilla s , tam ales, and

o th e r M exican dishes. Masa harina
o fte n used in baked goods or as a
c o a tin g f o r pan fry in g or deep fry in g
As h o t cereal. In baked goods. To coat

ite m s f o r s a u te in g or pan fry in g
p o le n ta (coa rsely ground)

CORNSTARCH
D ried kernels, hull and germ rem oved,
As th ic k e n in g agent (slurry). In baked
g round to a powder. Pure w h ite
goods, coa ting s
CHEF'S NOTES ON CORN

Corn, also known as maize, is a grass that
uses as field corn; however, it is also best
is native to the Americas and has been
used for popping corn due to its starch
cultivated there for thousands of years. It
content. Flour corn has a kernel that is
was introduced to Europe in the fifteenth
easy to grind. It can be grown in different
century. Today it is widely cultivated
colors but is most typically white. It is the
throughout the world, with the United
most prevalent variety grown by Native
States producing about 40 percent of the
Americans. Finally, there is sweet corn,
worlds harvest. Corn is grown for use as
which contains more sugars than do other
livestock feed, as a source for biofuel, and
varieties. This is the best variety for eating
for human consumption.
off the cob. At the same stage of growth,
There are a few basic varieties of corn,
sweet corn will contain more than twice
which are grown for different uses. Field

corn, also known as dent corn, is grown
the amount of sugar contained in field

corn. Freshness is most important when
primarily for use as livestock feed, in in
buying sweet corn to be eaten off the cob
dustrial products, and to make processed
because approximately 50 percent of the
foods. Flint corn, which is also known as
sugar will be converted to starch within the
Indian corn, is grown for the same typical
first twenty-four hours after being picked.
Chapter 10 DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
207
oats
Oats are a valuable source of nutrients and fi
ber. They are readily available and inexpensive. Mainly

consumed as a hot or cold cereal, oats are also commonly
used as an ingredient in baked goods and side dishes.
208
oats
Oats
FORM
DESCRIPTION
GROATS
H ulled, usually crushed grain, esp e cia lly

oats, b u t can be w heat, b u ckw h e a t kasha
As h o t cereal. In salads, s tu ffin g , or

m ixed w ith o th e r cereals
R O LLED/O LDFASHIONED
G roats, stea m e d and fla tte n e d . Very pale
As h o t cere al (oatm eal). In granola,

baked goods
S T E E L-C U T/IR IS H /
SCOTCH
G roats, cu t in to pieces. Brow n, chewy
As h o t cereal. In baked goods
BRAN
O u te r cove rin g o f th e o a t

goods
FLOUR
G roats, m ille d in to a fin e pow der
In baked goods
brow n, a lm o st w h ite . Round, fla k e -lik e .

Tender. A lso ava ila ble as "q u ic k -c o o k in g "
and "in s ta n t"
CHEF'S NOTES ON OATS

Oats are grown in temperate climates and
starch, protein, vitamins, and minerals. It
can be cultivated easily in poor soil. The
is the groat, or the inner kernel of oats, that
oat plant is an annual grass with either a
is rolled into flakes and used as oatmeal in
fall planting and midsummer harvest or a
breakfast foods and baking. Oats may also
spring planting and late summer harvest.
be consumed raw and are used for prepar
Most of the cultivation of oats is used for
ing muesli and other cereals that may be
livestock feed. However, oats contain more
eaten cold. They are also commonly used
soluble fiber than any other grain, mak
for beer brewing, commonly in oatmeal
ing them a good choice for healthy eating.
stout where oats are used for a portion of
The bran also contains omega fatty acids,
the wort.
c h a p te r 10 DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
209
other grains
A wide variety of grains fall in the
others are rarely used. In recent years, however, chefs
others group, as they do not fit cleanly into another
have begun to experiment with many of these less com-
category. Some of these grains are quite common, while
mon varieties of grains.
>
KASH A
A M A R A N TH
M ILLET
QUINOA
PEA R LED B A R L E Y
B A R L E Y FLOUR
FARRO
210
NAME
DESCRIPTION
BUCKWHEAT
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. L ig h t brown.

M ild ly n u tty fla v o r
As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used

f o r pancakes, blinis, baked goods
KASHA
Hulled, crushed kernels (b u ckw h e a t

g ro a ts), ro a ste d . R edd ish-b row n . Chewy
te x tu re . T oasty, n u tty fla v o r
In p ila fs, salads, savory pancakes
M ILLET
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. Bland fla v o r
other grains
Other Grains
As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used

f o r puddings, fla tb re a d s , cakes
SORGHUM
C om m only bo ile d to a th ic k syrup
In p o rrid g e , fla tb re a d s , beer, syrup,

m olasses
RYE
W hole, cracked, o r m ille d in to flo u r.

Ranges fro m lig h t to d a rk brow n. Dense.
In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r

baked goods
P um p ern ickel flo u r is v e ry dark, coa rsely

ground rye
TEFF
W hole; e x tre m e ly tin y . L ig h t to re d d ish brow n. S w eet, c h e s tn u t-lik e fla v o r
In soups, casseroles. As th icke n in g

ag en t
AM AR AN TH
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. C o lor ranges

fro m w h ite to tan, gold, o r pink. S w e et
fla v o r
As h o t and cold cereal. In p ila f, salads,

soups
SPELT
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. M o d e ra te ly

n u tty fla v o r
In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r

baked goods
JOB'S TEARS
W hole; sm all, w h ite . S lig h tly chewy

te x tu re . G rass-like fla v o r
In p ila fs , salads
QUINOA
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. V ery tin y
In p ila fs , salads, puddings, soups, as

an a d d itio n to po le nta
circles. O ff-w h ite , red, o r black. M ild

fla v o r
BARLEY
H ulled and p e arl (hull and bran rem oved).

V a rie tie s: g rits , flo u r. Tan to w h ite . N u tty
fla v o r
In p ila fs , salads, soups. Used to make

w h iske y and beer
211
dried pasta and noodles
different flours and grains. Good-quality dried pastas
Dried pasta
is a valuable convenience food. It stores well, cooks
from wheat flour are customarily made from durum
quickly, and comes in an extensive array of shapes,
semolina. Pasta may be flavored or colored with spin
sizes, and flavors, as described in the table on pages 214
ach, tomatoes, beets, herbs, or squid ink.
to 215. Pasta and noodles are made from a number of
FUSILLI
ISRAELI CO USCOUS
TUBETTI
ORECCHIETTE
CO U SCO U S
ORZO
212

213
Dried Pasta and Noodles

NAME
DESCRIPTION
BUCATINI
H ollow , long strand s; s p a g h e tti-sh a p e d
S erved w ith th ic k e r sauces
BEAN THREAD
Slender, g e la tin o u s noodles. M ade fro m
NOODLES
m ung beans
In soups, s tir frie s , salads, de sserts,

drinks. Com m on in A s ia n -in flu e n ce d
dishes
CAPELLINI
FETTUCCINE
Thin, long strand s. T hin ne r version:

ca p e lli d'angelo (angel hair)
Served w ith b ro th , oil, o r ve ry lig h t
T hick, long stra n d s; fla t, rib bo n-sha pe d
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces,
sauces
s p e c ific a lly cream sauces

LASAGNE
T hick, long, fla t, w ide noodles; r u ffle d
In casseroles
edges
LINGUINE
RICE NOODLES
Thin, long, fla tte n e d strand s. Name
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t
com es fro m th e Ita lia n lingua, o r tongue
to heavy
V arious w id th s ; long strand s. M ade fro m
Com m on in A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes
rice flo u r
SO BANO O D LES
R ibbon-shaped, fin e , long stra n d s. M ade

fro m b u ckw h e a t flo u r
SPAGHETTI
V arious w id th s ; round, long strand s
In soups, s tir frie s . Common in A sianin flu e n ce d dishes

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t
to heavy
UDO N NO O D LES
Thick, long stra n d s
In soups, stew s, s tir frie s . Common in

A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes
VERM ICELLI
Thin, long stra n d s; s im ila r to s p a g h e tti
In b ro th s, soups. Served w ith lig h t

sauces
ACINI DEPEPE
Sm all, rice -shap ed
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles
CASARECCIA
S ho rt, ro lle d , tw is te d in to an S-shape

ELBOWS
S h o rt, narrow , curved tu b e s

FARFALLE
M edium , b o w tie -sh a p e d

FUSILLI
214
S h o rt, co rkscre w -sh a p e d

DESCRIPTION
ORECCHIETTE
Cupped, curved rounds
S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

ORZO
Sm all, grain -sh ap ed
PENNE
RADIATORE
S h o rt tub es, sm o o th o r ridged,

d ia g o n a lly cut
S ho rt, chunky w ith rip p le d edges
S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
RIGATONI
T hick, rid ge d tu b e s

SHELLS
S m all to large. Resem ble conch shells

soups, salads, casseroles; la rge r
NAME
she lls s tu ffe d
TUBETTI
Sm all to m edium , tu b e -sh a p e d
COUSCOUS
Sm all, irre g u la r shape; g ra in -lik e . S im ila r

to coarse sand
As h o t cereal. In p ila fs , salads
ISRAELI COUSCOUS
L a rge r than tra d itio n a l couscous. P earllike, sm oo th , round balls. Chewy te x tu re .
In p ila fs , salads, soups
S o m e tim e s to a s te d
ITALIAN CO USCOUS/
FREG O LASARD A
L a rge r tha n tra d itio n a l couscous;
In salads, fis h - o r to m a to -b a s e d
irre g u la r shape. S un-baked. G olden

brow n. Chewy te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r
soups
c h a p te r i o
DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
2 15
dried legumes
Commonly referred to as
used within six months of purchase. When purchasing
beans or peas, legumes are the dried seeds of pod-bear-
legumes, look for beans/peas that are bright and shiny
ing plants. Legumes are considered to be a staple food
and free of dust or mold.
to many cuisines throughout the world.

Legumes become drier and harder and require
a longer cooking time as they age, so they are best if
Always rinse them before preparing, to remove any

foreign, inedible debris. Discard any beans or peas that
appear moldy, damp, or wrinkled.
LENTILS
RED LENTILS
GREEN LENTILS
CH ICKPEAS
PIGEON PEAS
GREEN SPLIT PEAS
F LA G EO LETS
B LA C K BEAN S
LIM A B EAN S
C R A N B E R R Y B EAN S
216
K ID N EY B EA N S
GREAT NORTHERN BEAN S
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
Sm all. R e ddish-brow n. A vaila ble w hole
P opular in Japanese cuisine. Used

in c o n fe c tio n s as a sw e e t pa ste or
s u g a r-co a te d . In savory dishes
beans
ADZUKI
or pow dered. S w e e t fla v o r
BLACK/TURTLE
CANARY
In soups, stew s, salsas, salads, side
Large. Black e x te rio r, lig h t cream y

in te rio r. S w e et fla v o r
dishes
S lig h tly sm a lle r tha n p in to beans.

C anary-yellow . S w e et and n u tty fla v o r
s p e c ific a lly stew s
P opular in Peruvian dishes,
C A N N E LLIN I/IT A LIA N
M edium ; kidney-shaped. W h ite . N u tty
M in e s tro n e soup, salads, stew s, side
KIDNEY
fla v o r
dishes
CRANBERRY
Sm all, round. L ig h t ta n w ith m aroon

m arkings. N u tty fla v o r
In soups, stew s, salads, side dishes
FAVA/BROAD
Large, f la t oval. Tan. H erbaceous fla v o r

w ith a firm te x tu re
P opular in M e d ite rra n e a n and M id d le
FLAGEOLETS
G ARBANZO /C HICKPEAS
dried legumes
Dried Legumes
E astern cuisines. In fa la fe l, soups,

stew s, salads, side dishes
Sm all; kidney-shaped. Pale green to

cream y w h ite . D e lica te fla v o r
S erved w ith lamb. Braised and pureed

as a side dish
M edium , acorn-shaped. Beige. N u tty
P opular in m any e th n ic dishes. In

couscous, hummus, soups, stew s,
fla v o r
salads, side dishes
GREAT NORTHERN
KIDNEY
LENTILS
Large; s lig h tly rounded. W hite. M ild ly

d e lic a te fla v o r
M edium ; kidne y-shap ed . Pink to m aroon.
F u ll-b o d ie d fla v o r
Sm all; round. Brown; v a rie tie s include

French (gra y-gree n e x te rio r w ith pale
ye llo w in te rio r), red, yellow , s p lit w h ite .
In soups, stew s, casseroles, side

dishes
In c h ili con carne, re frie d beans,
beans and rice, soups, stew s,
casseroles, side dishes
Served w h ole or pureed as an
a cco m pa nim e nt. In soups, stew s,
salads, side dishes
P eppery fla v o r
LIM A /B U T TE R
M edium ; s lig h tly f la t kidney-shape.

W h ite to pale green. B u tte ry fla v o r
In succotash, soups, stew s, salads,

side dishes
MUNG
Sm all; round. Green. Tender te x tu re and

s lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r
S p ro u te d f o r bean spro uts. Ground

in to flo u r to make cellophane noodles
and bean th re a d s
N AVY/YAN KEE
Sm all; round. W hite. M ild fla v o r
In baked beans, chili, soups, salads
ch a p te r
10 DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
217
Dried Legumes, continued

NAME(S)
PINTO/RED MEXICAN
DESCRIPTION
M edium ; tu b u la r. Beige w ith brown
In chili, re frie d beans, stew s, soups
stre a k s
RICE
H e irlo o m bean. Very sm all, plum p,

capsule-shaped; resem bles rice grains.
M ild, s lig h tly b itt e r fla v o r
SOYBEANS
Sm all; pea- to che rry-sha ped ; d ried

ve rsio n is m ature bean. Red, yellow ,
green, brow n, black. Bland fla v o r
HEIRLOOM (CALYPSO,
TONGUES OF FIRE,
JACOB'S CATTLE,
MADEIRA, AND OTHERS)
Range tre m e n d o u s ly in size and color;

m any have s trip e s o r speckles
As s u b s titu te f o r rice. In soups,

stew s, casseroles, side dishes

dishes

dishes, salads
peas
BLACK-EYED
PIGEO N/G ANDULES
Sm all; kidney-shaped. Beige w ith black

"eye." E a rth y fla v o r
In h o pp in John, soups, side dishes
Sm all, n e arly round. Beige w ith orange
P opular in A frica n , C aribbean, and

Indian dishes
s p o ttin g . S w e et fla v o r s im ila r to lima

beans
SPLIT
Sm all, round. Green o r yellow . E arth y

fla v o r
In s p lit pea soup, salads, side dishes
Nuts are the fruits of various
Considering that nuts are somewhat expensive,

storing them properly is a must. They are susceptible to
underground in the root system of a leguminous plant.
turning rancid rather quickly. Nuts that have not been
Nuts are available in the shell, shelled and roasted,
roasted or shelled will keep longer. Shelled nuts may
blanched, sliced, slivered, halved, and chopped. Nuts
be stored in the freezer or refrigerator to allow for an
are also used to produce butters, such as the ever-popu-
extended shelf life.
lar peanut butter.
nuts and seeds
nuts and seeds
trees, with the exception of the peanut, which grows
ALM O N D S
PEC AN S
PEAN U TS
H A ZELN U T S
M A C A D A M IA S
CASH EW S
PINE NUTS
PU M PKIN SEEDS
PISTACHIOS
B LA C K S E S A M E S EED S
SU N FLO W ER SEEDS
WHITE S E S A M E SEEDS
PO PPYSEED S
c h a p te r 10 DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
2ig
Nuts and Seeds

|
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
T eardrop-shaped. Pale tan, w o od y shell.
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce
S w e et fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in shell;

shelled, blanched, slivered , sliced, s p lit,
chopped, ground (m eal and flo u r)
alm ond paste, alm ond b u tte r, and

alm ond oil. Used raw or to a s te d in
baked goods, co n fe ctio n s, granola,
cu rry dishes
nuts
ALM O ND
BRAZIL
Large, tria n g u la r nut. D ark brow n, hard

shell. W hite, rich nut
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or

to a s te d in baked goods
CASHEW
K idney-shaped. Tan nut. B u tte ry , s lig h tly

sw e et fla v o r. O nly sold hulled (its skin
con tain s oils s im ila r to th o se in poison
ivy)

cashew b u tte r. Used raw or to a s te d
in baked goods, co n fe c tio n s
CHESTNUT
F a irly large, round to te a rd ro p -sh a p e d .

Hard, glossy, da rk brow n shell; brown
Used cooked in sw e et and savory

dishes. R oasted, boiled, pureed
in te rn a l skin. O ff-w h ite nut. S w e et fla vo r.

A vaila ble w hole in shell; shelled canned
in w a te r o r syrup, fro ze n , dried, or
pureed
H AZELN U T/FILBER T
Sm all, ne arly round. S m ooth, hard shell.

Rich, sw e et, d e lic a te fla vo r. A vailable
w h ole in shell; she lle d w hole, blanched,
chopped
M AC AD AM IA
PEANUT
N e arly round; e x tre m e ly hard shell.
Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
G o ld e n -ye llo w nut. Rich, s lig h tly sw eet,

b u tte ry . A vaila ble shelled only
in baked goods, c o n fe c tio n s
Tan, p o d -lik e shell; pa pe ry brow n skin.

p eanut b u tte r and peanut oil. Used
raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t o r savory
O ff-w h ite nut. D is tin c tiv e , sw e e t flavo r.

A vaila ble w hole in shell or shelled,
skinned
PECAN
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d

in sw e e t o r savory dishes, baked
goods, salads, cereals
S m ooth, hard, thin , oval shell. Two-lobed,

b ro w n -skin n e d nut; cre a m -co lo re d
in te rio r. Rich, b u tte ry fla v o r. A vaila ble
dishes, baked goods, c o n fe ctio n s,

salads
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
in sw e et o r savo ry dishes, baked
goods, pie, co n fe c tio n s , salads
w h ole in shell; she lle d halved, chopped
220
PINE/PIG NO LI
Sm all, elo n g a te d kernel, ab o u t V 2 inch

long. L ig h t tan. B u tte ry , m ild fla v o r
Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t and

savo ry dishes, baked goods, salads,
p e sto
PISTACHIO
Tan shell opens s lig h tly when nut is

m ature ; shells so m e tim e s dyed red.
Green nut. S ub tle, sw e et fla vo r. A vailable
w h ole in shell, ro a ste d , usually salted.
A lso a va ila ble shelled, chopped
Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d

in sw e et and savory dishes
DESCRIPTION
W ALNUT
Thick o r th in lig h t brow n shell. Brow nskinned nuts grow in gnarled segm ents;
E aten o u t o f hand. Used to produce

w a ln u t oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in
sw e e t o r savory dishes. In baked
tender, oily. M ild flavo r. A vailable w hole in

shell or shelled, halved, chopped; pickled
goods, co n fe c tio n s , salads
seeds
POPPY
PUMPKIN
Very tin y , round b lu e -b la ck seeds.

Crunchy te x tu re . Rich, s lig h tly m u sty
fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground
As f illin g and to p p in g fo r baked
Sm all, f la t s o ft oval. C re am -colore d

hulls. G reen ish -brow n, o ily in te rio r.
Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e et or
savo ry dishes, baked goods. Popular
in M exican cuisine
D e lica te fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r hulled,

usually sa lte d
FLAX
Tiny, oval seeds. Golden or dark brown.

M ild ly n u tty. M ust be cooked b e fore eating
nuts and seeds
NAME(S)
goods. In salad dressings. Popular in

cuisines o f ce n tra l Europe and the
M id d le East
Used to produce linseed oil. In baked

goods, h o t and cold cereal
SESAME
Tiny, fla t, oval seeds. Black, red, o r tan.

Crunchy. S w eet, n u tty fla v o r
Used to produce o il and ta h in i

(paste). Used raw o r to a s te d in sw eet
and savo ry dishes, baked goods,
c o n fe c tio n s , as garnish
SUNFLOW ER
Sm all, som e w h at fla t, te a rd ro p -s h a p e d

seeds. W oody black and w h ite shell. L ig h t
tan seed. M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in
shell or shelled, usually sa lte d
Used to make su n flo w e r oil. Used raw

o r to a s te d in baked goods, salads
ch a p te r 10 DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
221
dried spices
Whole spices will generally keep longer than ground
Spices are aromatics produced
primarily from the bark and seeds of plants. They have
spices. Dried spices are best stored in sealed containers
long been used as flavor additives for savory and sweet
in a cool, dry environment, away from extreme heat and
dishes. Dried spices are available whole, ground, or as
direct light. For best results, purchase whole spices and
spice blends.
grind them just prior to using.
EPAZOTE
GUMBO FILE
TURM ERIC
M USTARD SEED
C E L E R Y SEED
JUNIPER BERRIES
CARAW AY SEED
CUMIN SEED
C LO VE S
CA RD A M O M PODS
STAR ANISE
222
FEN U G R E EK
CORIANDER
A LLS P IC E BERRIES
NUTMEG
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
ALLSPICE
D ried, unripened, pe a-sized b e rry o f

th e sm all evergreen p im ie n to tre e . Dark
In braises, fo rc e m e a ts , fish , de sserts
re d d ish -b ro w n . Tastes like cinnam on,

nutm eg, and cloves. A vaila ble w hole or
ground
ANNATTO
Dried, sm all a ch io te seeds. Deep red. N e arly

fla v o rle s s ; im p a rts y e llo w ish -o ra n g e c o lo r
to fo o d s. A vaila ble w hole
P opular in L a tin A m erican and

C aribbean cooking. In stew s, soups,
sauces
A N AR DANA
D ried po m eg rana te seeds. M u te d , deep red.

Sour fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole or ground
P opular in Indian cuisine as souring

ag en t
ANISE
D ried rip e f r u it o f th e herb Pim pin ella

anisum. L ig h t brow n. S im ila r fla v o r to fe n n e l
P opular in S o u th e a st Asian and

M e d ite rra n e a n cooking. In savory
seeds; sw e et, spicy, lic o ric e ta s te and

arom a
dishes, d e sse rts, baked goods,

lique ur
D ried f r u it o f th e a ro m a tic caraw ay plan t,

m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily . Sm all s trip e d
P opular in A u stria n , German, and
CARAWAY
cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds. D is tin c t fla v o r

s im ila r to , b u t s w e e te r than, anise seeds
CARDAMOM
D ried, unripened fr u it; m em b er o f th e gin g e r

fa m ily . Sm all round seeds in green, black, or
dried spices
Dried Spices
H ungarian cuisines. In rye bread,

pork, cabbage, soups, stew s, some
cheeses, baked goods, lique ur
(kiim m e l)
In curries, baked goods, pickles
bleached w h ite pod. S tro n g arom a; sw eet,

spicy fla v o r. A vaila ble as w hole pod, seeds,
o r ground
CAYENNE
D ried, rip en ed f r u it pod o f Capsicum
In sauces, soups, m eat, fis h , p o u ltry
frutesce ns. B rig h t red. H ot; spicy. A vaila ble

fre s h o r dried , w h ole o r ground
CELERY
CINNAM ON
CLOVES
D ried seed o f a w ild ce le ry (lovage). S tro n g
In salads, coleslaw , salad dressings,
ve g e ta l fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground
soups, stew s, to m a to e s , baked goods
D ried in ne r bark o f a tro p ic a l tre e . R eddishbrow n. A vaila ble in s tic k s or g round
In baked goods, curries, dessert

sauces, beverages, stews
D ried, unopened flo w e r o f th e tro p ic a l
In s to cks, sauces, braises, m arinades,

cu rrie s, pickles, d e sse rts, baked
goods
evergreen clove tre e . R e dd ish-b row n , spike

shaped. S w eet, pung en t arom a and fla vo r.
A vaila ble w hole or ground
CORIANDER
Dried, rip e f r u it o f th e c ila n tro plan t. Small,

round, ta n n is h -b ro w n seeds. Unique c itru s
like fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole
P opular in Asian, Indian, and M id dle

E aste rn cuisines. In curries, ground
fo rc e m e a ts , pickles, baked goods
CUMIN
D ried f r u it o f a p la n t in th e p a rsle y fa m ily .

Sm all, cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds; th re e colors:
amber, black, w h ite . N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble
w h ole o rg ro u n d
P opular in Indian, M exican, and

M id d le E astern cuisines. In curries,
c h ili
223
Dried Spices, continued

NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
DILL
D ried f r u it o f th e herb A ne th u m graveolens,
P opular in n o rth e rn and Eastern
m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily. Sm all tan

seeds. A vaila ble w hole
European cuisines. In pickles,

sa u e rkra u t, cheeses, breads, salad
dre ssin gs
EPAZOTE
An herb, Chenopodium a m b ro s io id e s.
M edium green leaves. D is tin c tiv e fla v o r and
P opular in M exican and Caribbean

cuisines; in chili, beans, soups, stew s
arom a. A vaila ble d rie d or fre s h

FENNEL
D ried, rip e f r u it o f th e p e ren nia l Foeniculum

vulgare. Sm all oval seeds, lig h t g re en ishbrow n. S w e et lic o ric e fla v o r and arom a.
A vaila ble w h ole or ground
FENUGREEK
Seed pods fro m an annual herb. Small, fla t,

re ctan gu lar seeds; yellow ish -brow n. B itte r
ta s te and pungent, hay-like, m aple-like
aroma. Available w hole or ground
P opular seasoning blends o f

M e d ite rra n e a n , Italian, Chinese, and
S candinavian cuisines. In sausages,
fish , sh e llfish , to m a to e s , baked
goods, m arinades, liqueurs
P opular in Indian cuisine. In curries,
m eat, m arinades, p o u ltry , chutneys,
spice blends, tea s
FILE POWDER
D ried leaves o f th e sassa fra s tre e . W oodsy

fla vo r, s im ila r to ro o t beer. A vaila ble ground
P opular in C reole cuisine. In gum bo
GINGER
P la nt fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l regions.

Tan, knobby, fib ro u s rhizom e. Sweet,
p e p p e ry fla v o r; spicy arom a. A vailable
fre sh , candied, pickled , o r ground
P opular in Asian and Indian cuisines.

In curries, braises, baked goods
HORSERADISH
Large, w h ite ro o t. M em b er o f th e m u sta rd

fa m ily . Sharp, in te nse fla v o r; pungent
In sauces, con dim ents, egg salad,

p o ta to e s , be ets
arom a. A vaila ble d rie d o r fre s h

JUNIPER BERRIES
Sm all, round d rie d b e rry o f ju n ip e r bush.

D ark blue. S lig h tly b itte r; m u st crush to
In m arinades, braises, m ea ts/g am e,

sa u e rkra u t, gin, liqueurs, teas
release fla v o r
M em brane cove rin g o f th e nu tm e g seed.
B rig h t red when fre sh ; ye llo w ish -o ra n g e
when dry. S tro n g n u tm e g ta s te and arom a.
A vaila ble w h ole or ground
In fo rc e m e a ts , pork, fish , spinach and

o th e r veg etab le s, pickles, de sserts,
MUSTARD
Seeds fro m p la n ts w ith in th e cabbage

fa m ily . Three type s: tra d itio n a l w h ite /y e llo w
(sm aller; less pu ng en t fla v o r), brow n, and
black (la rger; pungent, h o t fla v o r). A vaila ble
w h ole or pow dered
In pickles, m eats, sauces, cheese,

eggs, p re p a re d m ustard
NUTMEG
Large seed o f a f r u it th a t gro w s on the

tro p ic a l evergreen M y r is t ic a fragans. Sm all
egg shape; da rk brow n. S w eet, spicy fla v o r
and arom a. A vaila ble w hole or ground
MACE
224
baked goods
In sauces, soups, veal, chicken, aspics,

veg etab le s, d e sse rts, baked goods,
eggnog
DESCRIPTION
PAPRIKA
Dried, ground pods o f sw e et red peppers.
P opular in H ungarian cuisine. In

braises, stew s, goulashes, sauces,
garnishes
M any v a rie tie s. S up erior fro m Hungary;

colors range fro m orange-red to deep red.
M ild to intense fla v o r and aroma. Available
ground; also Spanish sm oked (sw e et and hot)
SAFFRON
D ried stig m a s o f flo w e rs o f Crocus so tivu s.

T h re a d -like ; ye llow -ora nge . One ounce
re q u ire s 1 4 ,0 0 0 stigm a s; expensive due
to la b o r-in te n s iv e process. A vaila ble as
th re a d s or pow dered
E ssen tial in paella, bo uilla ba isse,

r is o tto M ilanese. In p o u ltry , seafood,
rice p ila fs , sauces, soups, baked
goods
STAR ANISE
Dried 8 - to 1 2 -p o in te d pod fro m Chinese

evergreen, m em ber o f th e m agnolia fa m ily.
S ta r shape; da rk brow n. Intense lico rice
fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole o r g round
P opular in Asian dishes. Used

s p a rin g ly in pork, duck, baked goods,
tea s, liqueurs
TURMERIC
D ried ro o t o f th e tro p ic a l p la n t Curcuma

longa, re la te d to ginger. Shape s im ila r to
P opular in Indian and M id d le Eastern

cuisines. In curries, sauces, m ustard,
pickles, rice
ginger; b rig h t yellow . Intense spicy fla vo r.

A vaila ble pow dered
dried spices
NAME(S)
spice mixes
CHILI POWDER
Blend o f ground spices w ith d rie d chiles
P opular in S o u th w e ste rn and M exican
as th e base. Can include cum in, cloves,

coriander, g a rlic, and oregano. Degree o f
cuisines. In chili, c h ili con carne,

soups, stew s, sauces
spicine ss changes w ith v a rie ty o f chile

CHINESE FIVE-SPICE
CURRY POWDER
Blend o f g round spices; equal p a rts

Szechwan pe pp ercorn s, s ta r anise,
cinnam on, cloves, and fen nel. P ungent fla v o r
and arom a
Blend o f ground spices. Can include
P opular in Indian cuisine. In m eats,
cardam om , chiles, cinnam on, cloves,
sea food , veg e ta b le s, sauces, rice,

soups
coriander, cum in, fe n n e l seed, fe n u g re e k,

mace, nutm eg, red and black pepper, poppy
and sesame seeds, s a ffro n , ta m a rin d ,
tu rm e ric . Degree o f spicine ss and co lo r
change w ith v a rie ty
GARAM M ASALA
P opular in Chinese cuisine. In m eats,

fish , veg etab le s, m arinades, sauces
Blend o f d ry -ro a s te d spices; many

v a ria tio n s . Can include black pepper,
P opular in Indian cuisine. In fis h , lamb,

po rk, p o u ltry , c a u liflo w e r, p o ta to e s
cardam om , cinnam on, cloves, coriander,

cum in, d rie d chiles, fen nel, mace, nutm eg.
W arm fla v o r and arom a. W hole or ground
QUATRE EPICES
French te rm m eaning "fo u r spices''; re fe rs

to a v a rie ty o f ground spice m ix tu re s . Can
in clud e pepper, allspice, ginger, cinnam on,
cloves, nu tm eg
In stew s, soups, veg etab le s, pates,

te rrin e s
c h a p te r 10 DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
225
salt and pepper
Long valued for their pres
ervation qualities, both salt (sodium chloride) and
dry place. In humid weather, salt may cake together; to

prevent this, mix a few grains of rice in with the salt.
pepper have been prized for centuries. However, with
Peppercorns are berries grown on trees in tropi
refrigeration widely used today, they have become less
cal regions around the world. The type and flavor of
important as preservatives.
peppercorn depends on when it is harvested. Whole
Available in many forms, salt is a precious mineral
peppercorns will retain their flavor almost indefinitely,
that can be obtained from two different sources and
but they must be crushed or ground for the flavor to be
processes; it is either mined or evaporated from seawa
released.
ter. Free of shelf life concerns, salt is best stored in a
Salt and Pepper

DESCRIPTION
CURING
9 3 .7 5 % ta b le salt, 6.2 5% sodium n itra te .

S om etim es it is dyed pink to d iffe re n tia te
fro m o th e r salts
C uring m eats and fis h
KOSHER
Flaky, coarse grains. Iodine fre e .

D eveloped f o r p re p a ra tio n o f kosher
m eats. P re fe rre d over ta b le s a lt by m any
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer.
Table s a lt f o r t if ie d w ith iodine, a n u trie n t

s u p p le m e n t to re g u la te th y ro id . Can
im p a rt b itt e r ta s te . M ay re a ct w ith
c e rta in fo o d s
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer. In
Food a d d itiv e , de rive d fro m g lu ta m ic
Used in m any processed fo o d s
TYPE
salt
IODIZED
MSG (M O NO SODIUM
GLUTAMATE)
C ooking, canning, p ic k lin g
baked goods
acid. In te n s ifie s th e fla v o r o f savory

fo o d s
PICKLING/CANNING
S im ila r to ta b le salt. C ontains no

a d d itiv e s ; w ill clum p when exposed to
m o istu re . P rovides pure ta s te and cle ar
p ic k lin g /c a n n in g liq u id
P ickling, canning. S u b s titu te s fo r

ta b le s a lt as fla v o r enhancer
ROCK
Very coarse grains. Inexpensive
Used in crank ice cream machines.

P rovide s bed f o r sh e llfis h
226
SALT SU BSTITU TES/

LIGHT SALT
Some or all sodium ch lo rid e is replaced

w ith p o ta ssiu m ch lo rid e
S o d iu m -re s tric te d cooking.

S u b s titu te s f o r ta b le s a lt as fla v o r
enhancer
SEA/BAY
Thin, fla k y layers. Produced fro m

e va p o ra te d seaw ater. C ontains tra c e
m inerals. Intense fla vo r. F ine -gra in and
la rg e r c ry s ta ls available
F la vo r and te x tu re enhancer. Do n o t
use f o r p icklin g , canning, or baking
in
P
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
SEASONED
Table s a lt com b in ed w ith o th e r fla v o r

a d d itiv e s
F lavo r enhancer f o r s p e c ific

p re p a ra tio n s
P
2
0 -
1 3
TABLE
Sodium ch lo rid e . Two v a rie tie s : iodin e

fo r t if ie d and n o n fo rtifie d . C ontains
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer
C
D
13
13
added calcium s ilic a te f o r a n tic a k in g and

d e x tro s e to s ta b iliz e
0>
1 -i
pep p er
BLACK PEPPERCORNS
D ried, dark, sh rive le d be rry. Picked

un rip e and allow ed to dry. S trong,
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer.

Curing, p icklin g , sach et d'epices
p e p p e ry fla v o r. M o s t com m on o f all

peppers. Two v a rie tie s : T e llic h e rry and
Lam pong. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries,
cracked, o r ground
GREEN PEPPERCORNS
S o ft, un ripened b e rry. M ild , s lig h tly

b itin g fla v o r. S im ila r to capers in
appearance. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d , or
packed in vin e g a r o r brine
Seasoning, fla v o r enhancer
PINK PEPPERCORNS
D ried b e rry o f th e Baies rose plan t.

Rose colore d. Pungent; s lig h tly sw eet.
Expensive. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d or
packed in brine o r w a te r
Seasoning m ea t and fis h dishes,

sauces
SZECHW AN
D ried b e rry o f th e p ric k ly ash tre e .

R esem bles black p e pp ercorn s; deep red;
c on tain s a sm all seed. H ot, spicy fla vo r.
P opular in th e cuisines o f China's

Szechwan and Hunan provinces
PEPPERCORNS
A vaila ble w h ole o r pow dered

W HITE PEPPERCORNS
Ripened p e p p e rco rn w ith e x te rio r skin

rem oved. Beige. M ild fla v o r, flo w e ry
arom a. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries,
S easoning lig h t-c o lo re d sauces and

fo o d s
cracked, o r ground
c h a p te r i o
227
sweeteners
Sugar is responsible for the caramelization process,
Once a symbol of wealth and pros
perity, sugar is now widely used in all facets of the pro
balancing the acidity in foods, and contributing to the
fessional kitchen. Sugar is extracted from plant sources
appearance, flavor, and viscosity of glazes, sauces, and
(sugar beets and sugarcane) and refined into the desired
marinades. In the bakeshop, sugar adds sweetness,
form. Most varieties of syrup, such as maple, corn,
retains moisture, prolongs freshness/shelf life, aids in
molasses, and honey, are derived from plants as well.
the creaming process, and imparts color and flavor to
The flavor intensity of sweeteners typically corresponds
crusts. Selecting the proper sweetener will help deter
with the color the darker the sugar or syrup, the more
mine the desired end product.
concentrated the flavor.
H O N EY
M A P LE SU G A R
TURBINADO
228
LIGHT BROWN SU G A R
CO A RSE S U G A R
LIGHT CORN S Y R U P
DARK BROWN SU G AR
SU G A R CU BES
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
Sugar s u b s titu te s . N o n n u tritiv e values.

V a rie tie s include (b u t n o t lim ite d to):
Table use. N o t recom m ended f o r all

b a kin g and coo kin g uses
sugar
ARTIFICIAL
SWEETENERS
sw eeteners
Sweeteners
asp artam e , ace sulfa m e-k, saccharin,

stevia , and sucralose
BROWN
R efined, g ra n u la te d sugar w ith some

im p u ritie s rem a ining o r m olasses added.
S om ew hat m o ist. Two v a ria tio n s : lig h t
and dark; dark brow n has m ore in te nse
(m olasses) fla v o r
CONFECTIONERS'/
P O W D E R E D /lO X
Pure re fin e d sugar. W hite. Fine powder.

M in im a l am o un t o f c o rn s ta rc h added to
p re ve n t clu m pin g
G RANU LATED/W H ITE
Pure re fin e d cane or b e e t sugar. W hite.

G enerally sm all granules; ava ila ble
in va rio u s sizes: coarse (c ry s ta l/
d e co ra tin g ), s u p e rfin e , cubes, ta b le ts
M APLE
M aple sap boile d u n til near e va p o ra tio n .

Pale tan. Fine powder. M uch s w e e te r
PILONCILLO
In baked goods, p a stry, sauces,

savo ry dishes
In baked goods, p a stry, icings,

c o n fe c tio n s . As d e c o ra tiv e garnish
In baked goods, p a stry, sauces,

savo ry dishes
In baked goods and savory dishes.
than g ra n u la te d sugar
As sw e e t a d d itiv e to cereals, yog urt,

c o ffe e , tea
U n re fin e d , hard com p resse d sugar fro m

M exico. M edium to dark brow n. Cone
S u b s titu te f o r da rk brow n sugar. In

savo ry dishes
shaped; 3/t-o u n c e to 9-ounce cones. Two

v a rie tie s : bianco (lig h te r) and oscuro
(darker)
JAG GERY/PALM
RAW
U n re fin e d ; fro m palm tre e sap or

sugarcane. Dark. Coarse grains.
P opular in Indian cuisine. As

spread f o r breads. In baked goods,
A vaila ble in several fo rm s ; tw o m o st

popular: s o ft/s p re a d a b le and solid
c o n fe c tio n s
P u rifie d sugarcane residue. Several

v a rie tie s : D em erara (w h ite sugar
c ry s ta ls w ith th e added m olasses;
coarse grains), B arb a d o s/m u sco va d o
Coarse gra in s are b e st su ite d fo r

d e c o ra tin g and as a sw e et a d d itive .
F in e -te x tu re d grains used as
s u b s titu te f o r lig h t brow n sugar
(m oist, dark, fin e -te x tu re grains),

tu rb in a d o (steam -clea ned , lig h t brown,
coarse grains)
SUGARCANE
Source o f sugar; m em ber o f th e grass

fa m ily. M ade ed ib le by bo iling . A vaila ble
in sta lks. Less sw e e t tha n g ra n u la te d
sugar
As snack, garnish
229
Sweeteners, continued
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
syrup
CORN
L iq u e fie d sugar c re a te d by pro cessing
In baked goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s,
co rn sta rch . Three v a rie tie s : lig h t

(c la rifie d to rem ove color), dark (co lo r
added, caram el fla v o r), and high
spreads
fru c to s e . Less sw e e t than g ra n u la te d

sugar; th e d a rke r th e syrup, the
m ore in te nse th e fla v o r. In h ib its
c ry s ta lliz a tio n
FLAVORED
HONEY
In baked goods, p a stry, savory dishes,
Sugar o r o th e r syrup w ith added

fla v o rin g . F lavo r v a rie tie s include fr u it,
nut, spice, cho colate, caram el
beverages
Thick, sw e e t liq u id pro du ced by bees

fro m flo w e r nectar. Pale ye llo w to
da rk brow n. F lavor in te n s ifie s as co lo r
beverages, spreads
In baked goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes,
deepens. C ountless v a rie tie s . Named

acco rd in g to s p e c ific flo w e r. A vaila ble in
com b, ch u n k-style , liquid, w h ipp ed
MAPLE
B oile d m aple tre e sap. G olden brown.

Unique fla v o r. A vaila ble in grades A" or
"B. A is m ore re fin e d than B
As a cco m pa nim e nt to pancakes,

w a ffle s , French to a s t. In baked
goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s, savory
dishes
MOLASSES
L iq u id b y -p ro d u c t o f sugar re fin in g .
Three v a rie tie s : lig h t ( f ir s t boil), dark
A cco m p a n im e n t to pancakes,
w a ffle s , and French to a s t. In baked
goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes
(second boil), and b la c k s tra p (th ird boil,

d a rk e s t and th ic k e s t). F lavo r and arom a
in te n s ifie s as co lo r deepens
230
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
sweeteners
sweeteners, continued
PILONCILLO
S U G A R C A N E STICKS
PAL M S U G A R
231
fats and oils
The uses for fats and oils in the
While they are similar in many ways, fat is solid at
professional kitchen or bakeshop are innumerable. Fat
room temperature, while oil is liquid. Oils are produced
provides a rich flavor, silky mouthfeel and texture, and
by pressing a high-oil food, such as olives, nuts, corn, or
pleasing aroma. It also performs a multitude of chemi
soybeans. The liquid is then filtered, clarified, or hydro
cal functions such as tenderizing, leavening, aiding in
genated to produce an oil or fat (shortening).
moisture retention, and creating flaky/crumbly textures.

Fats and oils act as insulators for food, transfer heat to
The smoke point of a fat or oil greatly determines

its appropriate use. For example, the higher the smoke
food, prevent sticking, emulsify or thicken sauces, and
point, the better suited it is for frying because it can
create crisp textures when used for frying.
withstand higher heat ranges.
Fats and Oils

TYPE
DESCRIPTION
S olid f a t churned fro m m ilk; a m inim um o f

8 0 % m ilk fa t, 2 0 % w a te r and m ilk solids.
Q u a lity based on fla vo r, body, te x tu re , color,
C ooking, baking. In p a stry, sauces,

com pound b u tte rs (Sm oke p o in t
3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C )
fats
BUTTER,W HOLE
and s a lt co n te n t. Grades: AA (fin e s t), A, B, C

BUTTER,
C LA R IFIED /
DRAW N/GHEE
FRYING FATS
P u rifie d b u tte rfa t. U n salte d b u tte r w ith m ilk

so lid s rem oved. Longer s h e lf life than b u tte r.
In roux, w arm b u tte r sauces, Indian

cooking, savory dishes
High sm oke p o in t
(Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 F /2 5 2 C )
L iq u id or m allea ble a t room te m p e ra tu re .

Blended o ils or sho rte n in g s; based on
Deep fry in g
(Sm oke p o in t varies)
pro cesse d corn or pe anut oils. High sm oke

p o in t; long f r y life
LARD
SHORTENING
S olid. R endered p o rk fa t. M ild fla v o r if

processed. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. M o d e ra te
sm oke p o in t
S olid. M ade fro m v e g e ta b le oils, may con tain
anim al fa ts ; liq u id o il ch e m ica lly tra n s fo rm e d
th ro u g h h yd rog ena tion . F lavorless. Low
sm oke p o in t
F rying, baking, p a s try

(Sm oke p o in t 3 7 0 F /1 8 8 C )
Deep fry in g , baking

(Sm oke p o in t 3 6 0 F /1 8 2 C )
oils
CANOLA/RAPESEED
COCONUT
Ligh t. E x tra c te d fro m rapeseeds; s im ila r

to s a fflo w e r oil. G old en -colo red . Low in
s a tu ra te d fa t. N e u tra l fla v o r. F a irly high to
very high sm oke p o in t
C ooking. In salad dressings

(Sm oke p o in t 4 0 0 F /2 0 4 C )
Heavy. E x tra c te d fro m d rie d coco nu t m eat.
In co m m e rcia l packaged goods,

blended oils, sh o rte n in g s
(Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C )
N e arly co lo rle ss. N e u tra l fla v o r when

d e od orize d. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. High sm oke
p o in t
CORN
232
R e fine d oil. M edium ye llo w color. O dorless;

m ild fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t
Deep fry in g . In com m e rcial salad

d ressings, m argarine
(Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 F /2 3 2 C )
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COTTONSEED
Fleavy. E x tra c te d fro m c o tto n p la n t seeds.

Very lig h t to pale yellow . N e u tra l fla vo r.
M o d e ra te ly high sm oke p o in t
C om bined w ith o th e r oils to produce

ve g e ta b le and coo kin g oils, salad
dressings, m argarine, com m e rcial
p ro d u c ts
(Sm oke p o in t 4 2 0 F /2 1 6 C )
GRAPESEED
OLIVE
Lig h t. Pale color. N e u tra l fla v o r. High sm oke

p o in t
S auteing, fry in g . In salad dressings
Varies in viscosity. Pale yellow to deep green

(depending on typ e o f olive and processing).
Q uality based on a cid ity level, the fin e s t being
e xtra-virgin. Two d is tin c t classes: virgin and
Comm on to M e d ite rra n e a n cuisines.

Low - to h ig h -h e a t cooking, depending
on ty p e o f processing. In m arinades,
salad dressings
(Sm oke p o in t 3 7 5 -4 6 5 F /1 9 1 024 1C )
blended. The fla v o r o f olive oil varies g re a tly

depending on region: can range fro m m ild to
herbaceous to grassy to peppery. Low to high
smoke point
OIL SPRAYS
L ig h t v e g e ta b le oils. Blended. Packaged in

pum p o r ae roso l sprays. V a rie tie s include
(Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 F /2 5 2 C )
L ig h t co a tin g f o r pans and g rid d le s
ve g e ta b le , o live oil, and b u tte r-fla v o re d

PEANUT
Ligh t. R efined. Clear to pale yellow . S u b tle

s c e n t/fla v o r; le s s -re fin e d v a rie tie s have
s tro n g e r s c e n t/fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t
Deep fry in g , s tir-fry in g . In

com m e rcia l salad dressings,
m argarine, s h o rte n in g
(Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 F /2 3 2 C )
SAFFLOW ER
SALAD
L ig h t. R efined. E x tra c te d fro m s a fflo w e r

seeds. C olorless. F lavorless. Very high sm oke
p o in t
Blended v e g e ta b le oils. S u b tle fla v o r
Deep fry in g . In salad dressings

(Sm oke p o in t 5 1 0 F /2 6 6 C )
In salad dressings, m ayonnaise

SESAME
Two typ e s: one is lig h t and m ild w ith n u tty

fla v o r, th e o th e r is da rk w ith s tro n g e r fla v o r
and arom a. E x tra c te d fro m sesam e seeds.
Low to m o d e ra te sm oke p o in t, de pe nd ing on
ty p e
Frying, sauteing. In salad dressings,

fla v o r a d d itiv e
(Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 -4 1 0 F /
1 7 7 -2 1 0 C )
SOYBEAN
Heavy. L ig h t yellow . Pronounced fla v o r and

arom a. High sm oke p o in t
Com m on to Chinese cuisine. S tirfry in g . In com m e rcial m argarine,

s h o rte n in g
(Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 F /2 3 2 C )
SUNFLOW ER
L ig h t. E x tra c te d fro m s u n flo w e r seeds. Pale

yellow . S u b tle fla v o r. Low in s a tu ra te d fa t.
M e d iu m -lo w sm oke p o in t
A ll-p u rp o s e cooking. In salad

dressings
(Sm oke p o in t 4 4 0 F /2 2 7 C )
VEGETABLE
L ig h t re fin e d blended ve g e ta b le oils. M ild

fla v o r and arom a. High sm oke p o in t
A ll-p u rp o s e cooking, deep fry in g ,

baking
W ALNUT
Lig h t. U n re fin e d . Pale to m edium yellow .

D e lica te n u tty fla v o r and arom a. H ighly
pe rish able; re frig e ra te to p re v e n t ra n c id ity
F lavo r a d d itiv e in salad dressings,

m ea t dishes, pasta, de sserts. B est
used uncooked
(Sm oke p o in t 3 2 0 F /1 6 0 C )
c h a p te r i o
miscellaneous dry goods

CHOCOLATE
EXTRACTS
C hocolate is produced fro m cocoa beans, which gro w in
The ch e f uses a v a rie ty o f fla v o rin g e x tra c ts f o r coo k
a pod on th e cacao tre e . For th e an cie nt A ztecs, cocoa
ing and baking. Herbs, spices, nuts, and fr u its are used
beans served n o t only to produce d rin ks and as a com
to pre pa re e xtra c ts , w hich are alcohol based. Common
po nent o f various sauces, b u t also as currency. Today,
fla v o rs include vanilla, lemon, m int, and alm ond. E xtra cts
cho colate is usually fo u n d in a v a rie ty o f sw eets, in clu d
can lose th e ir p o te n cy if th e y are allow ed to come in
ing cakes, candies, and o th e r de sserts, although it is also
c o n ta c t w ith air, heat, o r light. To preserve flavo r, s to re
used in savory e n tre e s such as m ole poblano, a tu rk e y
e x tra c ts in tig h tly capped dark ja rs or b o ttle s away fro m
dish o f M exican origin.
heat or d ire c t light.
The cho colate e x tra c tio n process is le ng th y and has

undergone a g re a t deal o f re fin e m e n t since th e days o f
the A ztecs. The f ir s t stage involves crushing the kernels
in to a paste; a t th is p o in t it is c o m p le te ly unsw eetened
and is called ch o co la te liquor. The liq u o r is then fu rth e r
ground to give it a sm oother, fin e r te x tu re , and s w e e te n
ers and o th e r in g re d ie n ts m ay be added. The liq u o r may
be pressed, causing cocoa b u tte r to be fo rc e d out. The
cocoa solids th a t are le ft are ground in to cocoa powder.
Cocoa b u tte r may be com bined w ith cho colate liq u o r to
make e a tin g chocolate, o r it may be fla v o re d and s w e e t
ened to make w h ite chocolate. Cocoa b u tte r also has
num erous p h arm a ceutica l and co sm e tic uses.
C hocolate should be sto re d , w e ll w rapped, in a cool,
dry, v e n tila te d area. U nder m o st co n d itio n s, it should
n o t be re frig e ra te d , since th is could cause m o istu re to
condense on th e surface. S om e tim es s to re d cho colate
develops a w h ite "b loo m '; th e bloom m ere ly in dica tes
th a t som e o f th e cocoa b u tte r has m e lte d and then re
c ry s ta lliz e d on th e surface. C hocolate w ith a bloom can
s till be used safely. Cocoa pow der should be s to re d in
tig h tly sealed con tain ers in a d ry place. It w ill keep a l
m o st in d e fin ite ly .
LEAVENERS
Leaveners are used to give fo o d s a light, airy te x tu re .
Chem ical leaveners, such as baking soda (sodium b ic a r
bonate) and baking pow der (a com b in a tio n o f baking
soda, cream o f ta rta r, and corn sta rch), w o rk rapidly.
Baking p ow der is usually double acting, w hich means
th a t one re a ctio n happens in th e presence o f m oistu re,
when liquids are added to dry in g re d ie n ts, and a second
occurs in th e presence o f heat, as th e ite m bakes in the
oven.
Yeast leavens fo o d s by th e process o f fe rm e n ta tio n ,
which produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The gas is
tra p p e d by th e dough, c re a tin g a num ber o f sm all p o ck
ets, and th e alcohol burns o f f durin g baking.
Chem ical leaveners should be ke p t p e rfe c tly dry.
D ried yea st can be held fo r exte nde d periods, b u t fresh
ye a st has a s h o rt s h e lf life ; it w ill la st only a fe w weeks
under re frig e ra tio n .
THICKENERS
T hickeners are used to give liquid a ce rta in am ount o f
v isco sity. The process o f fo rm in g an em ulsion is one way
VINEGARS AND CONDIMENTS

V inegars and m o st con dim ents are used to in tro d u ce
sharp, piquant, sw eet, or h o t fla v o rs in to fo o d s. They
may be used as an in g re d ie n t o r served on th e side, to
to th icke n a liquid, as is th e process o f red uctio n. In ad

d itio n , various th ic k e n in g in g re d ie n ts can be used. These
include a rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, file powder, and gelatin,
to name a few.
be added acco rding to a guest's ta s te . A w e ll-s to c k e d

kitche n should include a fu ll range o f vinegars, m ustards,
relishes, pickles, olives, jam s, and o th e r condim ents. In
general, vinegars and con dim ents should be s to re d in
the same m anner as oils and shortenings.
234
W INES, CORDIALS, AND LIQUEURS
A good cup o f c o ffe e o r te a is o fte n th e key to a re s
A general rule o f th u m b f o r s e le c tin g wines, cordials, and
tau ra nt's re p u ta tio n . The ch e f should id e n tify brands
lique urs f o r use in co o kin g and baking is: If it is n o t s u it
and blends th a t b e s t serve th e e sta b lish m e n t's sp e c ific
able f o r drinkin g, it is n o t su ita b le fo r cooking.
needs. W hereas som e o p e ra tio n s p re fe r to se le ct whole
Brandies and cognacs, Champagne, d ry red and
c o ffe e beans, o th e rs m ay be b e tte r served by buying
w h ite wines, p o rt, Sauternes, sherry, s to u ts , ales, beers,
preground, p o rtio n e d , vacuum -packed co ffe e . M any
and sw e e t and d ry v e rm o u th are com m only used in the
re s ta u ra n ts serve brew ed d e c a ffe in a te d co ffe e , and
kitch e n . For baking purposes, th e ch e f should keep
som e o ffe r espresso and cappuccino, b o th reg ular and
on hand bourbon, crem e de cassis, f r u it brandies, gin,
d e ca ffe in a te d .
Teas com e in m any v a rie tie s , includ in g black tea,
Kahlua, rum , and scotch. Purchase w ines and cordials

th a t are a ffo rd a b ly p riced and o f good q u a lity. Table
green tea, and herbal teas. M o s t are blends and are
w ines (Burgundies, Chablis, and Chardonnays, fo r ex
available in sin g le -se rvin g bags or in loose fo rm .
am ple) lose th e ir fla v o r and becom e acidic once opened,
A lth o u g h c o ffe e and te a g e n e ra lly keep welt, the y
e sp e cia lly when s u b je cte d to heat, lig h t, and air. To
w ill lose a lo t o f fla v o r i f s to re d to o long o r under im
pre serve fla vo r, keep th e m in closed b o ttle s or b o ttle s
p ro p e r c o n d itio n s. W hole beans o r opened co n ta in e rs o f
f it t e d w ith po u rin g spouts, and re frig e ra te when not
ground c o ffe e should be placed in an a irtig h t co n ta in e r
needed. F o rtifie d w ines (M adeiras, sherries, and po rts,
and used as soon as po ssib le to keep fla v o r and nuances
f o r exam ple) are m ore sta b le than ta b le wines and can
a t th e ir peak; te a s should be sto re d in cool, dry areas,
be held in d ry storag e. The same also applies to cordials,
away fro m lig h t and m oistu re.
cognacs, and liqueurs.
miscellaneous dry good
COFFEE, TEA, AND OTHER BEVERAGES
Prepared m ixes (pow dered f r u it d rin ks o r cocoa

mixes, f o r exam ple) also should be k e p t m o is tu re -fre e .
Frozen ju ice s and o th e r beverages should rem ain s o lid ly
fro ze n u n til needed. Canned ju ice s should be ke p t in dry
storage. R em em ber to ro ta te stock, and check all cans,
boxes, and o th e r co n ta in e rs f o r leaks, bulges, rust, or
mold.
Chapter 10 DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
235
;auces, and soups

PART 3
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Good cooking is the result ofjggrefully developing the best possible

flavor and most perfect texture in each dish. Basic flavoring and aromatic
combinations constitute the flavor base; thickeners contribute a rich,
smooth mouthfeel; end liaisons lend body to stocks, sauces, and soups.
B oU Q. UE T GARNI, S A C H E T D'EPICES, A N D OIGNON B R U L E A R E T H R E E BASIC AR OM A TI C P R EP AR AT IO NS

C A L L E D F O R A G A I N A N D A G A I N IN R E C I P E S . T H E S E C O M B I N A T I O N S O F A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S , H E R B S ,
A N D S P I C E S A R E M E A N T TO E N H A N C E A N D S U P P O R T T H E F L A V O R S O F A D I S H . T H E Y A D D F L A V O R TO
S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S B Y G E N T L Y I N F U S I N G T H E LI Q. UI D W I T H T H E I R A R O M A .
bouquets, sachets
and oignon brule
A ll th re e o f the se a ro m a tic p re p a ra tio n s are added durin g the cooking process. Bouquets
and sachets are ty p ic a lly tie d to g e th e r fo r easy rem oval durin g cooking, a fte r th e desired
am ount o f fla v o r has been e xtra cte d , even b e fo re all o f th e o th e r in g re d ie n ts in a dish are
fin ish e d cooking.
A bo uq ue t garni is made up o f fre s h herbs and veg etab le s tie d in to a bundle. If leek is
used to w rap the o th e r bouq ue t garni ingre die nts, it m ust be th o ro u g h ly rinsed o f d ir t firs t.
Cut a piece o f s trin g long enough to leave a ta il to tie th e bouq ue t to th e p o t handle. This
makes it easy to pull o u t th e bouquet when it is tim e to rem ove it.
A sachet contains in g re d ie n ts such as peppercorns, o th e r spices, and herbs. The sea
sonings are o fte n tie d up in a cheesecloth bag f o r recipes th a t are n o t stra in e d a fte r c oo k
ing. A "loose" sachet, f o r w hich th e sachet in g re d ie n ts are added d ire c tly to a recipe w ith
o u t f ir s t being tie d , may be used when th e liquid w ill be stra in e d a fte r the dish has fin ish e d
cooking. A stan dard bouq ue t o r sachet can be m o d ifie d a little (add some c a rro t or a g a rlic
clove) o r a lo t (use cardam om , ginger, o r cinnam on) to produce d iffe re n t e ffe c ts . A sachet
in fu ses a liquid w ith flavo r, in the same w ay th a t a tea bag is used to make a cup o f tea.
For a sm all batch o f less than a gallon, add the sachet o r bouq ue t in the la st fifte e n to
th ir ty m inutes. For batches o f several gallons or m ore, add it ab ou t one hour b e fo re the
end o f th e cooking tim e . C onsult s p e c ific recipes and fo rm u la s fo r guidance. When you add
a bouquet or sachet to a s to ck or soup, ta s te the dish b e fo re and a fte r adding it to learn its
e ffe c t on th e dish's fla v o r p ro file . If the a ro m a tics have been com bined fo llo w in g a basic
fo rm u la and sim m ered long enough to infuse the dish w ith th e ir aroma, th e dish should be
fla v o re d b u t n o t ove rw h elm e d by them .
Oignon brule ("b urnt onion") and oignon pique ("pricked" or "stud de d onion") are fla v o r
ing in g re d ie n ts based on whole, halved, o r q u a rte re d onions. An oignon brule is made by
peeling and halving an onion and cha rring th e cu t faces in a dry s k ille t. It is used in some
stocks and consom m es to provide golden brow n color. An oignon pique is prepared by s tu d
ding an onion w ith a fe w w hole cloves and a bay leaf. It is used to fla v o r becham el sauce and
some soups.
240
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
Standard Bouquet Garni
Standard Sachet d'Epices
(1 bouquet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)
(1 sachet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)
1 sprig thyme
3 or 4 parsley stems
3 or 4 parsley stems
1 sprig thyme or 1 ts p /2 g dried
1 bay leaf
1 bay leaf
2 or 3 leek leaves and/or 1 celery

stalk, cut in half lengthwise
1 ts p /2 g cracked peppercorns
1 garlic clove (optional)
1 carrot, cut in half lengthwise (optional)

1 parsnip, cut in half lengthwise (optional)
1B
Ingredients fo r a standard bouquet garni
The finished bouquet garni
Ingredients fo r a standard sachet depices
The finished sachet d'epices
ch a p te r 11 M IS E EN PL A C E FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
bouquets, sachets, and oignon brule
BOUQUET GARNI AND SACHET D EPICES
241
M ir e p o ix
is
th e
F rench
n a m e
fo r
c o m b in a t io n
of
o n io n s
, c a r r o t s , a n d c e l e r y , b u t it is
NO T T H E O N L Y S U C H C O M B IN A T IO N , E V E N W IT H I N T H E F R E N C H C U L I N A R Y R E P E R T O IR E . M l R E P O I X A N D
S I M I L A R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E C O M B I N A T I O N S A R E I N T E N D E D TO P R O V I D E A S U B T L E B U T P L E A S I N G
BA CK G R O U N D FLA VO R , S U P P O R T IN G A N D IM P R O V IN G T H E FL A V O R OF TH E F IN IS H E D D ISH .
mirepoix
Onions, ca rro ts, celery (both pascal and celeriac), leeks, parsnips, garlic, to m a to e s, shal
lots, m ushroom s, peppers, and ging er are am ong th e in g re d ie n ts com m only re fe rre d to as
arom atics. They may be used in various com binations, as d ic ta te d by th e cuisine and the
dish its e lf. Even when used in re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts, a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts make a sig
n ific a n t c o n trib u tio n to a dish. For example, 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f m ire p o ix is enough to fla v o r 1
g a l/3 .8 4 L o f s tock, soup, sauce, stew, braise, o r m arinade.
To g e t the b e st fla v o r fro m m ire p o ix and s im ila r pre pa ration s, th o ro u g h ly rinse and
trim all th e veg etab le s f ir s t. Onion skin w ill give a sim m e ring liquid an orange o r ye llo w tin t,
which may not be desirable, so de te rm in e w h e th e r to peel onions. Scrubbing, b u t n o t pe e l
ing, c a rro ts and parsnips can cu t down on the prep tim e. N evertheless, some chefs peel all
vegetables on the prem ise th a t fla v o r is e xtra cte d in to th e dish m ore easily; oth ers peel
the m only when th e y are not strain ed o u t o f the fin is h e d dish.
W heth er or n o t th e vegetables are peeled, cut them in to pieces o f a re la tiv e ly un ifo rm
size, w ith th e dim ensions m atched to th e cooking tim e o f th e dish. The s h o rte r the sim m ering tim e , th e sm aller and th in n e r the cut; th e longer
the tim e , th e larger and th ic k e r th e cut. Make larger cuts
fo r lo ng -sim m erin g dishes such as p o t ro a sts or brown veal
stock. Cut m ire p o ix sm all or slice it f o r use in uncooked
marinades, pan gravies, and dishes th a t sim m er up to th re e
hours. Slice m ire p o ix ve ry fin e f o r fu m e ts and stocks th a t
sim m er less than one hour.
M ire p o ix w ill add a d is tin c t arom a to a dish, even
if the cut-up vegetables are sim p ly added to the p o t as
it sim m ers. Sweating, sm othe rin g, roa sting , or brow ning
the m in fa t s ig n ific a n tly changes th e ir flavo r. S ta rt by coo k
ing onions in ju s t enough fa t to coa t th e b o tto m o f the pan
and vegetables, then add th e ca rro ts, and fin a lly the celery.
W hite stocks o r cream soups ge ne rally call fo r cooking the
m ire p o ix over low heat in f a t u n til it s ta rts to give o f f some
o f its own natural m oistu re, known as sweating. If th e p o t is
covered as th e a ro m a tics sweat, th e tech niq ue is sm o th e r
ing. Pingage is a tech niq ue derived fro m th e French pincer,
"to s tiffe n or pinch; th is te rm describes w h at happens to
the to m a to e s as th e y cook in h o t fa t. For pingage, to m a to
STANDARD MIR EPOIX
WHITE MIR EPOIX
paste or o th e r to m a to p ro d u c t is added to the already

brow ned m ire p o ix and cooked u n til it tu rn s reddish brown.
242
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
basic formula
Standard Mirepoix
Asian Aromatics
Matignon
(1 lb /4 5 4 g)
(1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g)
(1 3 o z /3 6 9 g )
8 oz/227 g onion
8 oz/227 g garlic
3 oz/85 g ham
4 oz/113 g carrot
8 oz/227 g ginger
4 oz/113 g onion
4 oz/113 g celery
4 oz/113 g green onion
4 oz/113 g carrot
Note: The ratio is two parts onion to

one p a rt celery to one p a rt carrot.
Note: The ra tio is two parts

ginger to two parts garlic
to one p a rt green onion.
2 oz/57 g celery
1 sprig thyme
White Mirepoix
(1 lb /4 5 4 g)
4 oz/113 g onion
m irepoix
1 bay leaf
Cajun Trinity
(1 lb /4 5 4 g)
8 oz/227 g onion
4 oz/113 g celery or celeriac
4 oz/113 g celery
4 oz/113 g parsnip
4 oz/113 g bell pepper
4 oz/113 g leek
Note: The ratio is equal parts
onion, celery, parsnip, and leek.
Note: The ratio is two parts

onion to one p a rt celery to
one p a rt bell pepper.
method
at-a-glance
1. Brown the onions and
carrots.
2 . Add the celery and cook
until soft.
3. For pin<;age, add tom ato
paste and brown.
Standard mirepoix
is used to flavor a variety of stocks and soups.
Tomato paste or puree is often added to the mirepoix for brown stock, gravy,
stew, or soup for added flavor and color.
White mirepoix
is used to flavor white stocks and soups that should
have a mild flavor and/or pale ivory or white color.
Asian aromatics
are used in many Asian stir-fries, soups, and
sauces. Cook the aromatics until they are just fragrant as they burn easily.
Cajun tr in ity
is used in many Louisiana Creole and Cajun dishes such as
gumbo. Its usage varies widely by region and according to traditional recipes.
Matignon
is sometimes called edible mirepoix, and is used to garnish
a dish as well as to flavor it. It typically includes onions, carrots, celery, and
ham cut into very neat dice. Mushrooms and assorted herbs and spices may
be added as desired. Render the ham before adding remaining aromatics and
cook until softened. Use according to recipe.
c h a p te r 11 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
243
1. brown the onions and ca rro ts, then

add the celery. M ire p o ix can cook u n til it tu rn s a deep rich
brow n (so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as caram elized), e ith e r on
th e range or in th e oven. S ta rt by cooking onions in ju s t
enough f a t to co a t th e b o tto m o f th e pan and vegetables,
the n add th e c a rro ts , and fin a lly th e celery.
2. add tomato paste ( if using) once the

m ire p o ix in g re d ie n ts are p a rtly cooked, a fte r the celery
s o fte n s and c o lo r deepens. Tom ato pa ste or puree is o f
te n added to th e m ire p o ix fo r brow n stock, gravy, stew, or
soup f o r added fla v o r and color.
244
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
m irepoix
3. cook carefully
u n til deeply brow ned to
co m p le te pingage: cook th e to m a to pa ste u n til it tu rn s

ru s ty brow n and has a sw e et aroma.
c h a p te r n
M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SOUP S
245
R oux
TH IC KE NS S AUCE S, SOUPS, AND STEWS, AND LEND S THO SE DISHES A S PEC IAL FLAVOR. COOKING
F L O U R IN F A T I N A C T I V A T E S A N E N Z Y M E T HA T , IF N O T D E S T R O Y E D B Y H I G H H E A T , I N T E R F E R E S W I T H F L O U R S
T H I C K E N I N G A B I L I T Y . C O O K I N G F L O U R A L S O C H A N G E S T H E F L O U R ' S R A W C E R E A L T A S T E TO A T O A S T Y O R
N U T T Y FLAVOR. BO TH THE F LA V O R A ND THE COLOR B EC O M E D E EP E R THE L O N G ER THE RO U X COOKS.
roux
In a d d itio n to im p ro vin g raw flo u r's fla v o r and color, cooking flo u r in fa t helps to keep the
starch in the flo u r fro m fo rm in g long strand s o r clum ps when th e roux is com bined w ith
a liquid. However, keep in m ind th a t th e same w e ig h t o f w h ite roux has m ore thicke ning
pow er than a d a rker roux, because the brow ning process causes some o f th e starch in the
flo u r to break down, m aking it unavailable fo r thickening. T here fore, th e da rker the roux,
the less th icke n in g pow er it has.
A ltho ug h o th e r th icke n e rs are gra du ally sup plantin g roux in th e Am erican kitche n fo r
various reasons (including the longer cooking tim e req uire d to rem ove any ta s te o f raw
flo u r and because it creates a heavier sauce), it is s till used extensively, perhaps because
o f its European culinary h e ritag e and its several d is tin c t advantages. In a d d itio n to th ic k
ening a dish, roux w ill change th e co lo r o f a sauce and, if a dark roux is used, lend it a n u tty
or to a s te d flavo r. For exam ple, dark roux is p a rtic u la rly im p o rta n t in Creole and Cajun cui
sines, w here it gives gum bos and stew s th e ir unique character. A n o th e r advantage o f using
roux is th a t th e starches p re se n t in th e flo u r do not break down as easily as some others,
cre a tin g a m ore sta b le sauce.
Roux can be prepared w ith any ty p e o f w h ite w h ea t flo u r; however, th e m ost desirable
is all-pu rpo se flo u r due to its sta rch con tent. Flours va ry in th e ir s ta rc h -to -p ro te in ratio.
Cake flo u r, fo r instance, has a higher p ro p o rtio n o f sta rch to p ro te in than bread flo u r and
w ill, th e re fo re , have m ore th icke n in g pow er than a bread flo u r roux. A ll-p u rp o se flo u r has
a th icke n in g pow er betw een th e tw o. Roux called fo r in th is book was te s te d using a ll-p u r
pose flou r.
C la rifie d b u tte r is the m o st com m on fa t used fo r m aking roux, b u t w hole b u tte r, veg
eta b le oils, rendered chicken fa t, or o th e r rendered fa ts may also be used. Each fa t w ill
influence th e fin is h e d dish's flavo r.
Heat th e fa t over m edium heat and add the flo u r, s tirrin g to com bine. The basic fo rm u la
f o r a roux is 60 pe rce n t flo u r to 40 pe rcen t fa t (by w eight). The roux should be v e ry sm ooth
and m oist, w ith a glossy sheen n o t dry o r greasy. It should look like "sand a t low tide. A d
ju s t the roux's te x tu re by adding m ore flo u r or fa t. S tir th e roux as it cooks to keep it fro m
WHITE ROU X
246
BLOND
BROWN
DARK
roux
scorching, and con tinu e to cook it to th e de sire d color. To reduce th e chances o f scorching,
large q u a n titie s o f roux may be placed in a m od era te oven (35 0 to 3 7 5 F /1 7 7 to 191C)
to com p le te cooking.
The fo u r basic colors o f roux are w h ite (barely colored o r chalky), blond (golden stra w
c o lo r w ith a s lig h tly n u tty aroma), brown (deep brow n w ith a s tro n g n u tty aroma), and dark
(dark brow n w ith a pronounced n u tty fla v o r and aroma). Once the roux is cooked to its de
sired doneness, it is ready to use, o r it may be cooled and sto re d fo r later.
Roux can be com bined w ith liquid in th re e ways. Cool roux may be added to h o t liquid,
cool liquid may be added to h o t roux, o r w arm roux may be added to liquid o f th e same
te m p e ra tu re . For any approach, though, fo llo w the se general guidelines:
Avoid temperature extremes to prevent lumping.

Cool or room temperature roux can be incorporated into hot liquid more easily than icecold roux because the fat is not as solid.
Very cold liquid should not be used, as it will initially cause the roux to harden.
Extremely hot roux should be avoided, because it may spatter when combined with a
liquid and cause serious burns.
The fu ll th icke n in g actio n o f th e roux becom es e vid e n t when th e liquid has reached ap
p ro x im a te ly 2 0 0F /93C . Long-cooking sauces and soups are fu rth e r thicke ne d through
red uctio n.
PURE STARCH SLU RR IE S

A rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, and o th e r pure starche s have g re a te r th icke n in g power, ounce fo r
ounce, than flo u r and do n o t req uire an extended sim m e ring tim e like roux. They also lend
much less co lo r o r none a t all to a fin a l dish. However, keep in m ind th a t th e y break down
m ore qu ickly over tim e than does roux.
A rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, tap ioca , p o ta to starch, and rice flo u r are all pure starches. They
are made in to slu rrie s by d isp e rsin g them in cold liquid. T horoughly blend the sta rch and
liquid to ab ou t the con sisten cy o f heavy cream. S lu rries can be blended in advance and
held to use du rin g a la m in ute pre pa ration s. If n o t used im m e dia te ly, th e sta rch w ill s e ttle
o u t o f th e liquid and fa ll to th e b o tto m o f th e container. S tir th e s lu rry ju s t b e fo re use to
recom bine the starch evenly w ith th e liquid.
Pour or ladle th e s lu rry in to sim m e ring liquid w h ile s tirrin g c o n sta n tly. When added in
th is way, slu rrie s qu ickly th icke n the liquid, m aking it easy f o r th e ch e f to c o n tro l th e fin a l
con sisten cy o f th e dish. W hisk co n s ta n tly to pre ve n t lum ping and scorching. B ring the liq
uid back to a boil and cook ju s t u n til th e sauce reaches th e desired th ickn e ss and c la rity.
Dishes thicke ne d w ith slu rrie s have lim ite d holding periods. Be sure to check p e rio d i
cally f o r q u a lity if th e y m ust be held in a steam tab le. Various starche s have som ew hat
d iffe re n t q u a litie s b u t may be s u b s titu te d one fo r th e other, fo llo w in g th e fo rm u la on the
next page.
Chapter n
M IS E EN P L A C E FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
247
Q to substitute a pure starch for roux

BASIC EQUATION
EXAMPLE:
Weight of flour in roux [multiply weight o f roux

by 0.6 to determine weight of flour] x Thickening
power of replacem ent starch [see below] = Esti-
To substitute arrowroot in a recipe that calls for 10

oz/284 g of roux:
10 o z /2 8 4 g roux x 0.6 = 6 o z /1 7 0 g flour
m ated weight of replacem ent starch

required
6 o z /1 7 0 g flou r x 0.5
[arrowroot thickening power] = B o z /8 5 g
arrowroot
thickening
powers
Rice flour:
0.6
Arrowroot:
0.5
Cornstarch:
0.5
Tapioca/Cassava flo u r
0.4
Potato starch:
0.2
common thickening starches

and their characteristics
RICE FLOUR
Translucent. Relatively weak thickening power. Freezes well. Fairly expensive.
ARROWROOT
More translucent than cornstarch. Thickening power roughly equivalent to
cornstarch. Does not gel or weep when cooled.
CORNSTARCH
Translucent. Thickens when heated, but thickening power diminishes with ex
cessive heating. Gels and weeps upon cooling.
TAPIOCA/CASSAVA FLOUR
Translucent. Thickening power slightly greater than cornstarch. Available from
Asian food purveyors. Moderately priced.
POTATO STARCH
Translucent. More thickening power than cornstarch. Moderately priced.
248
m ixtu re of egg y o l k s a n d crea m
S O U P S IS C A L L E D A L I A I S O N .
THAT
is u s e d
TO
enrich
AND SLIGHTLY
thicken s a u c e s and
L I A I S O N IS N O T A T H I C K E N E R IN T H E S A M E W A Y T H A T R O U X A N D P U R E
S T A R C H S L U R R I E S A R E , B U T T H E C O M B I N A T I O N O F C R E A M A N D E G G S , W H E N P R O P E R L Y S I M M E R E D IN A
liaison
The
DISH, A D D S S H E E N , S M O O T H N E S S , B O D Y , A N D F L A V O R A S W E L L A S A L I G H T G O L D E N " ! V O R Y COL OR.
liaison
Egg yolks no rm ally begin to coagulate a t 149F /65C . The a d d itio n o f cream raises th e co
agulation p o in t to 18 0 to 1 8 5 F /8 2 to 85C. M ix th e cream and egg yolks to g e th e r u n til
evenly blended. Add a p o rtio n o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison to avoid a d ra stic heat change,
which could cause th e yolks to curdle. This process, known as te m p e rin g , reduces te m p e ra
tu re e xtre m e s so th e fin is h e d soup o r sauce rem ains sm ooth. G radually add ab o u t oneth ird o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison, a la d le fu l a t a tim e , w h iskin g c o n sta n tly. W hen enough
h o t liquid has been added, re tu rn th e te m p e re d liaison to th e soup o r sauce. Return th e p o t
to low heat and g e n tly w arm the m ixture , s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til it th icke n s slig h tly. Do
n o t allow th e m ix tu re to go beyond 18 5 F /8 5 C or th e egg yolks m ig h t curdle.
For reasons o f q u a lity, add th e liaison as close to service tim e as possible. Hold soups
and sauces th icke n e d w ith a liaison above 1 4 0 F /6 0 C f o r fo o d s a fe ty reasons b u t below
1 8 5 F /8 5 C to m aintain qu ality.
basic formula (by weight)

method
at-a-glance
Blend the cream and egg
yolks.
Temper the hot liquid into
the liaison.
Liaison
(IOV 2 fl oz/315 mL, to thicken 24 fl
oz/720 mL liquid)
8 fI oz/240 mL cream
2Vi f I oz/75 mL egg yolk
(about 3 large)
Note: The ratio fo r liaison is three
ports cream to one p o rt egg yolk.
3. Combine the tem pered
liaison w ith the dish.

Warm, s tirrin g frequently,
until slightly thickened.
Chapter 11 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
249
1. begin with a hot soup,
sauce, or
dish such as Veal B la n q u e tte (page 597). Blend the cream

and egg yolks to g e th e r u n til evenly com bined. Egg yolks
n o rm a lly begin to coa gu late a t 14 9 F /6 5 C . The ad d i
tio n o f cream raises th e coa gu latio n p o in t to 180 to
1 8 5 F /8 2 to 85C. S lo w ly add some o f th e h o t liquid to
th e liaison to te m p e r it. A dd in g a p o rtio n o f th e h o t liquid
to th e liaiso n avoids a d ra s tic heat change, w hich could
cause th e yolks to curdle. This process, known as te m p e r
ing, reduces te m p e ra tu re e xtre m e s so th e fin is h e d soup
or sauce rem ains sm ooth. G radually add ab ou t o n e -th ird
o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison, a la d le fu l a t a tim e, w h is k
ing co n sta n tly.
2. add the tempered liaison
back
to th e dish. W hen enough h o t liq u id has been added, re

tu rn th e te m p e re d liaison to th e soup or sauce. Return
th e p o t to low heat and g e n tly w arm the m ixture , s t ir
rin g fre q u e n tly , u n til s lig h tly thicke ne d. Do n o t allow the
te m p e ra tu re to go beyond 1 8 5 F /8 5 C or the egg yolks
m ig h t curdle. Add th e liaison as close to service tim e as
possible. Hold soups and sauces th icke n e d w ith a liaison
above 1 4 0 F /6 0 C f o r fo o d s a fe ty reasons, b u t below
1 8 5 F /8 5 C to m a intain q u a lity.
250
butter
is m a d e b y h e a t i n g w h o l e
butter
u n til the
b u tte rfa t and
m ilk s o lid s
s e p a r a t e . W h e n w h o l e b u t t e r is c l a r i f i e d , s o m e o f i t s v o l u m e is l o s t d u r i n g s k i m m i n g a n d
D E C A N TIN G : 1 L b / 4 5 4 G OF BU TTE R W IL L Y IE L D A P P R O X IM A T E L Y 1 2 O z / 3 4 0 G OF C L A R IF IE D BUTTER.
U s i n g s a l t e d b u t t e r f o r c l a r i f y i n g is n o t r e c o m m e n d e d b e c a u s e t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s a l t
in t h e r e s u l t i n g c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r is u n p r e d i c t a b l e . U n s a l t e d c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r c a n a l w a y s
be s a l t e d a s i t 's u s e d .
clarified butter
clarified butter
C la rifie d
Q basic formula
Clarified Butter
(12 oz/340 g)
1 lb/454 g butter
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
M e lt th e b u tte r.
S kim o f f th e fo a m .
D e c a n t th e c la rifie d b u tte r.
The purpose o f clarifying b u tte r
is to remove its milk
solids and water. This makes it possible to cook with butter at a higher tem
perature than is possible with whole butter. Clarified butter is commonly used
to make roux. Because it adds some butter flavor, it is often used for sauteing,
sometimes in combination with vegetable oil. Some chefs also prefer it for warm
butter sauces such as hollandaise and bearnaise. Ghee, which is used in some
Asian cuisines, is a type of clarified butter. It has a nutty flavor because the milk
solids are allowed to brown before they are separated from the butterfat.
c h a p te r n
M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
251
1. melt the butter and skim o f f the foam .

H eat th e b u tte r over low heat u n til fo a m rises to th e su r
face and th e w a te r and m ilk solids drop to the b o tto m o f
th e pot. The rem a ining b u tte r fa t becom es very clear. Skim
th e surface fo a m as th e b u tte r c la rifie s using a ladle,
screen skim m er, o r p e rfo ra te d spoon.
2. decant the clarified butter.
Pour
or ladle o f f th e b u tte r fa t in to a n othe r container, ca re fu lly

leaving all o f th e w a te r and m ilk solids in the pan b o tto m .
A f te r w hole b u tte r is c la rifie d , some o f its volum e is lo s t
due to skim m ing, decanting, and disca rd in g th e w a te r and
m ilk solids. One lb /4 5 4 g o f w hole b u tte r y ie ld s a p p ro x i
m a te ly 12 o z /3 4 0 g o f c la rifie d b u tte r.
252
stocks
Stocks are among the most basic preparations found in any professional
kitchen. In fact, they are referred to in French as fonds de cuisine, the
"foundations of cooking." A stock is a flavorful liquid prepared by simmering
meaty bones from meat or poultry, seafood, and/or vegetables in water
with aromatics until their flavor, aroma, color, body, and nutritive value
are extracted. The liquid is then used to prepare sauces, soups, and as a
braising and simmering cooking medium fo r vegetables and grains.
hite s t o c k s
bro w n
st o c k s
and
fu m et s a re the th ree
basic t y p e s
of st o ck
.W
hite st o cks
A R E M A D E B Y C O M B I N I N G A L L O F T H E I N G R E D I E N T S W I T H A C O O L LI Q. UI D ( T Y P I C A L L Y W A T E R ) A N D
S I M M E R I N G O V E R G E N T L E HEAT. B R O W N S T O C K S A R E M A D E B Y B R O W N I N G T H E B O N E S A N D M I R E P O I X
IN E N O U G H F A T TO P R O D U C E A R I C H M A H O G A N Y C O L O R , E I T H E R B Y R O A S T I N G IN T H E O V E N O R O N T H E
STOVETOP, B E F O R E S IMM ER IN G. F u M E T S ( S O M E T IM E S KN OW N A S E S S E N C E S ) C A L L FOR SWEATIN G
OR S M O T H E R I N G T H E M A I N I N G R E D I E N T S B E F O R E S I M M E R I N G , O F T E N W I TH T H E A DD IT I ON O F D R Y
W H I T E WI NE.
For good fla v o r and body, use m ea ty bones and fis h bones. They can be acquired as a by
p ro d u ct o f m eat and fis h fa b ric a tio n or purchased solely fo r stock. Bones fro m younger
anim als contain a high percentage o f ca rtila g e and o th e r connective tissue s th a t break
down in to g e la tin du rin g sim m e ring and give the s to ck body. Knuckle, back, and neck bones
are good f o r s to ck as well. Include any w holesom e trim fro m fa b ric a tio n , if available, to
fu rth e r b o ls te r flavo r. Cut bones in to B -in /8 -cm lengths f o r q u icke r and m ore tho ro ug h ex
tra c tio n o f flavo r, ge la tin, and n u tritiv e value. If bones are purchased frozen , th a w them
b e fo re sim m e ring fo r stock.
Rinse all bones, fre s h or frozen, th o ro u g h ly b e fo re p u ttin g the m in to the sto ckp o t, to
rem ove blood and o th e r im p u ritie s th a t can com prom ise th e q u a lity o f th e stock. For brown
stocks, prepare th e bones and trim by ro a stin g the m fir s t; fo r m ore in fo rm a tio n , see page
263. Trim and cut m ire p o ix to a size th a t w ill allow fo r good fla v o r e xtra ctio n . A 2 -in /5 -c m
rough cut or slice is good f o r a sim m e ring tim e o f one hour. Cut vegetables larger or sm aller
fo r longer o r s h o rte r sim m e ring tim e s. The m ire p o ix and to m a to paste called f o r in brown
stocks are roa ste d or sauteed u n til browned b e fo re the y are added to the stock.
S tocks also include a sachet depices or bo uq ue t garni co n ta in in g a ro m a tics su ite d to
th e typ e o f s to ck being made. Because th e s to ck w ill eve ntua lly be strain ed , some chefs
do n o t tie up sachet o r bouq ue t ingre die nts. However, ty in g makes it easy to rem ove the
a ro m a tics i f th e ir fla v o r becom es to o strong.
Pots used f o r stocks are usually ta lle r than th e y are wide. This ty p e o f p o t creates a
sm aller surface area so th e eva po ration ra te is m inim ized durin g sim m ering. Some sto ckp o ts have sp ig o ts a t th e b o tto m th a t can be used to rem ove th e fin is h e d sto c k w ith o u t
d is tu rb in g th e bones. C o urt bouillons, fu m e ts, and essences th a t do not have long s im m e r
ing tim e s can be prepared in rondeaus or o th e r wide, shallow pots. T iltin g or stea m -jackete d k e ttle s are o fte n used fo r large-scale pro du ction. Ladles o r skim m ers should be on
hand to rem ove scum fro m th e s to ck as it sim m ers. Cheesecloth, sieves, and colanders are
used to separate th e bones and veg etab le s fro m the stock. A th e rm o m e te r and m etal con
ta in e rs f o r cooling, as w ell as p la s tic con tain ers fo r s to rin g the stock, should be on hand.
Tasting spoons w ill also be needed.
254
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
basic formula
Meat or Poultry Stock
Fish Stock
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
8 lb/3.63 kg bones and trimmings
11 lb/4.99 kg nonoily fishbones
5 to 6 qt/4.80 to 5.76 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g White
Mirepoix (page 243)
10 oz/284 g mushrooms, sliced

3 '/i qt/3.36 L water
1 q t/9 6 0 mL white wine
1 lb/454 g Standard or White

Mirepoix (page 243)
4</2 qt/4.32 L water
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or

Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
I Standard Sachet
d'Epices (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet
dEpices (page 241)
2 tbsp/20 g salt (optional)
Vegetable Stock
Fish Fumet
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
5 lb/1.36 kg assorted
nonstarchy vegetables
I I lb/4.99 kg nonoily fish bones,

cut in 2-in/5-cm pieces
5 q t/4.80 L water
1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix

(page 243), sliced thin
1 Standard Sachet dEpices or
method
at-a-glance
1. Combine the major
flavoring ingredient and
liquid.
2. Bring to a simmer.
3. Skim as necessary
throughout cooking time.

4. Add the m irepoix
and aromatics at the

appropriate point.
5. Simmer the stock until it
develops flavor, body, and

color.
The flavor o f the stock
can be changed or deepened depend
ing on the ingredients used. Certain stocks generally use basic mirepoix
combinations (see page 243), but more ingredients can be added to produce
the desired flavor. This is also true of the standard bouquet garni and sachet
d'epices, whose ingredients can be expanded to produce deeper and more var
ied flavors. The flavor can also be affected by the use of fresh versus frozen
bones and trim.
For a healthier option:
sto ck is an excellent way to infuse flavor
into a dish without adding fat or excess calories. Use it to cook grains, veg
etables, meats, sauces, or soups.
6. Strain.
7. Use im m ediately or cool
and store.
ch a p te r 12 STOCKS
Ingredients fo r w hite stock
Ingredients fo r brown veai stock
256
stocks
Ingredients fo r fish fu m e t
Ingredients fo r vegetable stock
ch a p te r 12 ST OCKS
257
1. combine the bones w ith cool liquid to

cover by tw o inches and b ring the m slo w ly to a sim m er in
an a p p ro p ria te size s to c k p o t. Skim as necessary. For the
b e st fla v o r and c le a re s t stock, s ta r t w ith a cool liquid
(w a te r o r rem o uilla ge; see page 2 6 1 ) to g e n tly e x tra c t
fla v o r and body. M a in ta in a bare sim m er th ro u g h o u t the
coo kin g process. Bubbles should break the surface o f the
s to ck in fre q u e n tly . The French use the verb fre m ir,
m eaning "to trem ble," to de scrib e th e a ctio n o f the
bubbles as th e s to c k cooks.
m eth o d in d etail
2. skim the liquid c o n s is te n tly to produce
a clear stock, and re g u la te the p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re . The
French verb d e p o u ille r, lite ra lly "to skin o r peel," is used
to de scrib e th e skim m in g process. A p a rt fro m the
ae s th e tic s o f a cle ar stock, th e im p u ritie s th a t leave a
sto c k cloudy are th e same elem e nts th a t w ill q u ickly spoil
and sour a stock. T h e re fo re , th e cle a re r th e stock, the
lo ng er its s h e lf life .
258
vor. The rig h t tim e to add m ire poix to all stocks except fish
stocks
3. add the mirepoix to the s to ck a t the

a p p ro p ria te tim e to e x tra c t th e m axim um am ount o f f la
stocks, fu m e ts, and c o u rt bouillons is about tw o hours be

fo re the end o f cooking tim e. Adding m ire poix a t th is point
w ill allow enough tim e fo r th e be st fla v o r to be extracte d
bu t n o t so much tim e th a t the fla v o r is broken down and
destroyed. O th er arom atics, such as a sachet d'epices or
bouquet garni, should be added in the last 30 to 45 m inutes
o f cooking. Since fis h stocks, fum ets, essences, and court
bouillons do not have extended cooking tim es, the m irepoix
in gre die nts are no rm ally cut sm aller and added near the
beginning o f th e sim m e ring tim e, and they remain in the
sto ck th ro u g h o u t cooking.
NOTE FOR FISH STOCK: Combine the bones w ith the
cool w a te r and a ro m a tics and sim m er g e n tly fo r 3 5 to 45
m inutes. This is som etim es called the sw im m ing m ethod, to
disting uish i t fro m fu m e t made by the sw eating m ethod.
NOTE FOR FISH FUMET: S w e at the m ire poix and mush
rooms, fo llo w e d by the fis h bones p rio r to adding the water.
4. add a sachet ab ou t 45 m inutes b e fo re the

s to c k has fin is h e d s im m e rin g to o b ta in th e m ost flavo r.
S im m er u n til th e de sire d fla vo r, aroma, body, and color
are achieved. Sm ell and ta s te th e s to c k as it develops so
th a t you can begin to u n de rsta nd its stages and notice
when it has reached its peak. Once th e s to ck reaches th a t
p o in t, fu rth e r coo kin g w ill cause fla v o rs to becom e fla t.
Even th e co lo r o f th e s to c k may be s lig h tly o f f if it sim
m ers to o long.
c h a p te r 12 STOCKS
259
5. strain the stock and use it im m e d ia te ly

or cool it p ro p e rly. Pour o r ladle th e s to ck o u t o f the p o t
th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve or a colan der lined w ith rinsed
cheesecloth. D istu rb th e solid in g re d ie n ts as little as
po ssib le f o r th e cle a re s t sto ck. Once you have rem oved
as much s to c k as po ssib le by ladling, drain th e rem a in
ing s to c k th ro u g h a colan der in to a bowl. Then s tra in the
sto ck th ro u g h che ese cloth o r a fin e -m e sh sieve to rem ove
any rem a ining im p u ritie s , if desired. Reserve th e bones
and m ire p o ix to pre pa re a rem ouillage, i f desired (see
page 261).
6. cool the stock over an ice bath, s tirrin g

fre q u e n tly , u n til it reaches 40 F /4 C , if n o t using im m e d i
ate ly. Skim any fa t th a t rises to the surface or w a it un til
it has hardened under re frig e ra tio n and sim p ly li f t it away
b e fo re re h e a tin g th e sto c k fo r la te r use.
Evaluate th e q u a lity o f th e fin is h e d s to ck on th e basis
o f fo u r c rite ria : fla v o r, color, arom a, and c la rity . If th e c o r
re c t ra tio o f bones, m ire p o ix, and a ro m a tics to liquid has
been used and th e c o rre c t pro ced ure has been follow e d,
th e fla v o r w ilt be w e ll balanced, rich, and fu ll-b o d ie d , w ith
th e m ajor fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t d o m in a tin g and th e fla v o rs
o f th e a ro m a tics un ob tru sive. The co lo r o f s to cks w ilt vary
by typ e . Q u a lity w h ite sto c k s are clear and lig h t to golden
when hot. Brown sto cks are a deep am ber or brow n due to
th e p re lim in a ry ro a s tin g o f th e bones and m ire poix. Veg
e ta b le sto c k s va ry in co lo r acco rding to main in gre die nt.
260
M aking stocks take s bo th tim e and money. If y ou r kitch e n prepares stocks, you should be
sure you fo llo w th e c o rre c t procedures fo r coo lin g and s to rin g them . S elect a s to ck to use
in a dish based upon e ith e r recipe req u ire m e n ts or th e e ffe c t you hope to achieve, and al
ways check a s to ck b e fo re using it to make sure it is s till fla v o rfu l and w holesom e. Boil a
sm all am ount and ta s te it. The arom a should be appealing, n o t o ve rly pungent or sour.
REMOUILLAGE
T ranslated fro m th e French as "rew etting,'' rem o uilla ge is made by re se rvin g th e sim m ered
stock guidelines
general guidelines for stocks
bones and m ire p o ix fro m a s to ck and sim m e ring th e m a second tim e . Rem ouillage may also
be made fro m the c la rific a tio n r a ft used to prepare Consomme. This secondary sto c k o f
w eaker s tre n g th can be used as th e liquid f o r s to cks and b ro th s o r as a cooking m edium, or
reduced to a glace.
GLACE
Glace is a highly reduced s to ck or rem ouillage. As a re s u lt o f con tinu ed red uctio n, the
s to c k acquires a je lly -lik e o r syrupy con sisten cy and its fla v o r is highly co n cen tra te d. When
chilled, a glace becom es ru b b e ry because o f th e high co n ce n tra tio n o f g e la tin. Glaces are
used to b o o st th e fla v o r o f o th e r foo ds, p a rtic u la rly sauces.
W hen th e y are re c o n s titu te d w ith w ater, th e y m ay also serve as a sauce base in much
th e same w ay as a com m e rcially prepared base. Glaces are made fro m d iffe re n t kinds o f
stock; th e m o st com m on is glace de viande, made fro m brow n veal stock, b e e f stock, or
rem ouillage.
COMMERCIAL BASES
N o t all kitche ns prepare stocks tod ay, e ith e r because m ea ty bones and trim are n o t rea d
ily available on a co n s is te n t basis or because the y do n o t have the space o r m anpow er to
succe ssfully prepare and hold stocks. C om m ercially pre pa red bases are the n used in place
o f stocks. Even in kitche ns th a t do prepare stocks, bases are h e lp fu l to have on hand to
deepen and im prove the s to c k s flavo r.
Bases are available in highly reduced fo rm s (sim ila r to th e classic glace de viande) and
de hyd rated (pow dered or cubed). N o t all bases are crea te d equal, however. Read th e labels
ca re fu lly. Avoid bases th a t re ly on high-sodium in g re d ie n ts f o r fla vo r. Q ua lity bases are
made fro m m eats, bones, vegetables, spices, and aro m atics. Prepare th e m according to
th e package in s tru c tio n s and ta s te each one. Judge th e base on its flavo r, saltiness, ba l
ance, and depth.
A fte r de cid ing th a t a base m eets your stan dard s f o r q u a lity and cost, learn how to
make any a d ju stm e n ts necessary. For exam ple, you m ig h t sw e at o r ro a s t m ore vegetables
and sim m er th e m in a d ilu te d base, perhaps along w ith brow ned trim , to make a rich brown
sauce.
c h a p te r 12 STOCKS
261
COOKING TIMES FOR STOCKS

The following cooking times are approximate; the times will vary according to numerous
factors such as ingredient quality, total volume, and the cooking temperature.
W HITE BEEF STOCK
8 to 10 hours
W HITE AND BROWN VEAL AND
6 to 8 hours
GAME STOCKS
W HITE POULTRY AND GAME BIRD
B to 4 hours
STOCKS
262
FISH STOCK AND FUMET
35 to 45 m in utes
VEGETABLE STOCKS
45 m in u te s to 1 hour, de pe nd ing on th e s p e c ific

in g re d ie n ts and th e size o f th e v e g e ta b le cut
Brown Veal Stock
Makes l gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8 lb /3.63 kg chicken bones, cut in 3-in /8-cm lengths
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
5 to 6 q t/4 .8 0 to 5.76 L cold water
8 lb /3.63 kg veal bones, including knuckles and trim
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
6 q t/5 .7 6 L cold water
1 Standard Sachet dEpices (page 2 4 1)
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix

ingredients (page 243), separate
1 . Rinse the bones under cool running water and place

them in an appropriate size stockpot.
stock recipes
Chicken Stock
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste

1 Standard Sachet dEpices (page 241)
2 . Add the cold water to cover the bones by about 2

in/5 cm- Slowly bring to a simmer. Skim the surface
as necessary.
3 . Simmer for 3 to 4 hours at approximately

i8oF/82C.
4 . Add the mirepoix and sachet and continue to sim

mer the stock 1 hour more, skimming as necessary
and tasting from time to time.
5 . Strain the stock. It may be used now (degrease by

skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored
for later use.
NOTES: Replace 2 lb/907 g o t the chicken bones w ith chicken
necks fo r an extra-rich, gelatinous stock.
Add or replace arom atic ingredients to achieve a
particular flavor. For an Asian-flavored chicken stock,
add ginger, lemongrass, and fresh or dried chiles. Juniper
berries can be added to game bird stocks along with
strongly flavored herbs, such as tarragon or rosemary,
or wild mushroom stems. Since these ingredients are
very strong, use discretion when adding so as not to
overflavor the stock.
W h ite Veal S tock: Replace the chicken bones w ith an equal
amount o f veal bones and simmer fo r 6 to 8 hours.
W hite B ee f S tock: Replace the chicken bones w ith an equal
amount o f beef bones and simmer fo r 8 to 10 hours.
1 . Condition the roasting pan: Heat the pan with

enough oil to lightly film it in a 4250 to 45oF/2i8 to
232C oven. If the bones are extremely fatty, no oil
is necessary. The fat will render during the roasting
process and the pan will be lubricated. Adding oil
at the beginning could be a waste. Spread the bones
in the pan and return to the oven. Roast the bones,
stirring and turning from time to time, until they are
deep brown, 30 to 45 minutes.
2 .. Transfer the bones to a stockpot large enough to ac

commodate all of the ingredients. Add 5V2 qt/5.28 L
of the water and bring to a simmer at i8oF/82C.
3 . Discard the excess fat from the roasting pan but

reserve some for making the pipage. Return the
roasting pan to the oven or place it on the range,
depending on the stove space available. Caramelize
the carrots and onions. When they have attained a
rich brown color, add the celery and cook it until it
begins to wilt and shrivel, 10 to 15 minutes. (Celery
will not brown very much because of its high water
content.)
4 . Once the proper color of the mirepoix has been at

tained, add the tomato paste and continue to cook
slowly until the pinâge has a rich brick reddishbrown color. Once the tomato paste has been
cooked, remove the mixture from the pan. Add the
remaining water and deglaze the fond off the bottom
of the pan. Reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency.
It is now ready to be added to the stock.
5 . After the stock has simmered for about 5 hours, add

the mirepoix mixture, reduced deglazing liquid, and
the sachet.
6 . Continue to simmer the stock at 180 to i 85F/82 to
85C, skimming as necessary and tasting from time
to time, until it has developed a rich flavor, notice
able body, and rich brown color, about 1 hour more.
ch a p te r 12 STOCKS
263
7 . Strain the stock. It may be used now (degrease by

Fish Fumet
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
for later use.

2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
Brown Game S to ck (Jus de G ibier): Replace the veal bones
and trim w ith an equal amount o f game bones and trim.
Include fennel seeds and/or ju nip er berries in a standard
sachet d'epices.
E stou ffad e: Replace half the veal bones and trim w ith beef
bones and trim and add an unsmoked ham hock.
Brown Lamb S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an
equal amount o f lamb bones and trim . Add one or more
of the follow ing herbs and spices to the sachet d'epices:
I lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced White Mirepoix (page 243)

10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced white mushrooms
I I lb /4.99 kg nonoily fish bones
4'/2 q t/4 .3 2 L cold water
1 q t/ 9 60 mL white wine
m int stems, juniper berries, cumin seeds, caraway seeds,

or rosemary.
1 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau and sweat the mire
Brown Pork S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an
equal amount o f fresh or smoked pork bones and trim.
Add one or more o f the follow ing herbs and spices to
Cover the pot and smother over medium heat until
a sachet d'epices: oregano stems, crushed red pepper,

caraway seeds, or mustard seeds.
Brown Chicken S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim with
an equal amount of chicken bones and trim.
Brown Duck S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an
equal amount o f duck bones and trim (or bones o f other
game birds, such as pheasant). Include fennel seeds and/
or juniper berries in the sachet d'epices, if desired.
poix and mushrooms followed by the fish bones.

the mirepoix is soft and the bones are opaque, 10 to
12 minutes.
2 . Add the water, wine, and sachet and bring to a sim

mer at 180 to i85F/82 to 85C.
3 . Simmer uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes, skimming

the surface as necessary.
4 . Strain the fumet. It may be used now (degrease by

for later use.
S he llfish S tock: Replace the fish bones w ith an equal
amount o f crustacean shells (shrimp, lobster, or crab).
Saute the shells in hot oil until the color deepens. Add
a standard mirepoix (page 243) and saute until tender.
If desired, add 3 oz/85 g tom ato paste and cook until
it takes on a deep red color, about 15 minutes. Add
enough w ater to cover the shells and simmer at 180 to
185F/82 to 85C fo r 40 minutes, skimming throughout
STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
Court Bouillon
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
5 lb /2.27 kg nonstarchy vegetables

(leeks, tomatoes, mushrooms, etc.)

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine vinegar

2 lb /9 0 7 g sliced onion
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced carrot
1 . Place all the ingredients into an appropriate size

stockpot.
stock recipes
Vegetable Stock
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced celery
2 . Bring to a simmer at 180 to i85F/82 to 85C,

skimming as necessary.
3 . Simmer until a balanced fresh vegetable flavor is

attained, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4 . Strain and cool to room temperature. Store in the

refrigerator until use.
1 . Combine all of the ingredients in a stockpot large

enough to accommodate them and simmer at 180
to i85F/82 to 85C for 1 hour.
2 . Strain the court bouillon. It may be used now or rap

idly cooled and stored for later use.
Roasted Vegetable Stock: Combine the vegetables with

2 fl oz/6 0 mL vegetable oil and roast in a large pan at
400F/204C ,turning to make sure all sides are evenly
browned, 15 to 2 0 minutes. Combine the roasted
vegetables w ith the w ater and sachet and simmer fo r 45
minutes to 1 hour.
c h a p te r 12 ST OCKS
265
Poultry and Meat

Stock (Brodo)
Makes l gal/3.84 L
Ichi Ban Dashi

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 pieces kombu, 3-in/8-cm squares
1 g al/3 .8 4 L cold water
1 stewing hen (about 6 lb /2.72 kg),

excess skin and fa t removed
2 to 3 o z/5 7 to 85 g dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi)
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg beef shank

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg chicken wings
1 . Slash the kombu with a knife in a few places and

wipe it with a damp cloth to remove sand; do not
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg turkey bones, cracked
remove any of the flavorful white powder. (Undesir
8 o z/2 2 7 g chicken feet
able flavors and a gooey, gelatinous texture develop if
I V 2 gal /5 .7 6 L cold water

3 lb /1.36 kg roughly chopped
Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
5 garlic cloves, crushed
the center of kombu is exposed or boiled.)
2 . Combine the cold water and kombu in large stain

less-steel stockpot. Bring to just below a boil over
medium heat. Before it begins to boil, remove the
kombu; reserve if desired (see Note).
2 bay leaves
6 parsley stems
V 2 bunch thyme
3 . Add the dried bonito and turn off the heat. Steep 2
minutes.
4 . Skim carefully. Gently strain the dashi and reserve

the solids. The dashi may be used now or rapidly
1 . Rinse all of the meat and bones twice with hot water.
cooled and stored for later use.
Drain.
2 .. Place the meat and bones in a large stockpot and

cover with water by 6 in/15 cm- Bring to a simmer at
kombu and drained bonito w ith 1 q t/9 6 0 mL water,

simmer fo r 2 0 minutes, and strain. Use the second dashi
180 to i85F/82 to 85C over medium heat, skim
in dipping sauces, dressings, stews, or braises, or for
ming as necessary.
cooking vegetables.
3 . Add the mirepoix, garlic, bay leaves, parsley, and

thyme. Continue to slowly simmer over medium-low
heat for 6 hours, skimming often. Take care not to
let the broth boil, as boiling will make it cloudy.
4 . Strain the broth. It may be used now (degrease by

for later use.
266
NOTE: For niban dashi (second dashi), combine the reserved
sauces
Sauces are often considered one of the greatest tests o f a chef's
skill. The successful pairing of a sauce with a food demonstrates
technical expertise, an understanding of the food, and the ability
to judge and evaluate a dish's flavors, textures, and colors.
At
one
tim e
espagnole
the
and
term
brown
sauce
dem i-glace. Today
it
was
equated
may a ls o
e x clu sive ly
indicate
jus
w ith
de v e a u
the
cla ssic
lie,
pan
sauces
sauces,
or
re d u c tio n -s ty le sauces based on a brow n o r fo r tifie d stock.
brown sauce
Espagnole sauce is prepared by b o ls te rin g a brow n veal s to ck w ith a d d itio n a l roasted
m irepoix, to m a to pingage, and a ro m a tics and th icke n in g it w ith brow n roux. Classically,
dem i-glace is com posed o f equal p a rts espagnole and brow n s to c k and reduced by h a lf
or to a nappe consistency. These days, it may be made o f brow n sto c k w ith a d d itio n a l
brow ned trim and m ire poix, and reduced to a nappe con sisten cy and o p tio n a lly thicke ne d
w ith a starch slu rry. Jus lies are made by reducing brown sto cks o r f o r tifie d sto cks (w ith
added fla vo rin g s, if desired) and th icke n in g the m w ith a pure sta rch slu rry. Pan sauces
and re d u ctio n sauces are produced as p a rt o f th e ro a s tin g or sau tein g cooking process;
th icke n in g can be accom plished by re d u ctio n or th e a d d itio n o f roux o r pure s ta rch slurries.
Regardless o f th e approach taken, th e end goal is the same; to make a basic brow n sauce
th a t is fla v o rfu l enough to be served as is b u t can also be used as the fo u n d a tio n f o r o th e r
sauces.
The u ltim a te success o f the brown sauce depends d ire c tly on the base stock, usually
Brown Veal S to ck (page 26 3). The sto c k m ust be o f e xce lle n t q u a lity, w ith a rich and w ellbalanced fla v o r and aroma, and w ith o u t any s tro n g notes o f m ire poix, herbs, or spices th a t
m ig h t overw helm th e fin ish e d sauce.
Bones and trim , cut in sm all pieces fo r fa s te r e x tra c tio n , are added to the base sto ck to
im prove its flavo r. M ire p o ix, cut in to large dice, may also be added. However, if th e s to ck is
e xtre m e ly fla v o rfu l, a d d itio n a l bones, trim , and m ire p o ix m ay n o t be necessary. M ushroom
trim , herbs, garlic, or sh a llo ts may also be added to the sauce as it develops.
Roux (see page 2 4 6) is one th ick e n in g op tion . It m ay be prepared ahead o f tim e or
may be prepared as p a rt o f the sauce-m aking process. The th icke n e r o f choice f o r jus lie is
cornstarch, although a n othe r pure starch, such as p o ta to s ta rch o r a rro w ro o t, m ay be used.
C ornstarch is p re fe ra b le because it re su lts in a tra n slu ce n t, g lossy sauce.
Jus lie is ge ne rally prepared in a saucepan o r p o t th a t is w id e r than it is ta ll. This is the
m o s t e ffe c tiv e means o f e x tra c tin g fla v o rs fu lly and qu ickly in to th e fin ish e d sauce. You
w ill also need a kitche n spoon, ladle, or skim m e r to skim th e developing sauce, and ta s tin g
spoons, fin e -m e sh strain ers, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d sauce. A d d itio n a l co n ta in
ers are necessary fo r bo th coo lin g and s to rin g the sauce.
268
STOCKS, SA U C E S , A N D SO U P S
basic formula
Brown Sauce
Oil, for browning bones,
Jus Lie
(1 ga 1/3.84 L)
trim, and mirepoix
(1 gal/3.84 L)
4 lb/1.81 kg additional
5 to 6 oz/142 to 170 g
2 lb/907 g veal trim
bones and trim
tomato paste or puree
1 lb/454 g large-cut Standard

Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb/454 g Standard
brown sauce
Mirepoix (page 243)
5 qt/4.80 L Brown Veal Stock

(page 263)
2 oz/57 g tomato paste

5 qt/4.80 L Brown Veal

Stock (page 263)
1 lb 2 oz/510 g Brown Roux

(see page 246)
method
at-a-glance
3 to 4 oz/85 to 113 g
cornstarch or arrowroot
Cold stock or water as needed to
bring the slurry mixture to the
Brown Sauce
consistency of heavy cream
Brown the bones, trim , and

mirepoix.
2. Add the tom ato product;
saute to pingage.
3. Incorporate the stock.
expert tips
Simmer 2 V 2 to 3 hours;
skim as necessary. Add the
sachet d'epices or bouquet
garni during the last hour
o f simmering.
To improve the flavor:
A d d itio n a lin g re d ie n ts such as the f o l
low ing m ay be added as th e sauce develops:

BONES A N D T R IM / M IR E P O IX , C UT INTO S M A L L PIEC ES / M U S H R O O M T R IM ,
C U T IN TO LARGE DICE / HERB S / GA R LIC / S H A LLO TS
Whisk in the roux and

simmer fo r 30 minutes.
To thicken the sauce
6. Strain and use or cool and

store properly.
The textureand to some extent the
color of a brown sauce depends on the type of thickener used. Any one of the
following may be used for thickening, depending on your desired results:
Jus Lie
R O U X / PUREED M IR E P O IX / R E D U C TIO N (D E M I-G L A C E ) / PURE STARCH

(ARR O W RO O T, POTATO STA R CH , OR C O R NSTAR C H)
Brown the trim , mirepoix,

and tom ato paste.
Finishing
2. Add the liquid and bring to
Some ingredients may be added to the simmering sauce after
it has finished cooking:
a boil.
W IN E TH A T HAS R EDUCED FROM D E G LA ZIN G OR HAS S IM M E R E D W ITH
3. Reduce the heat and
A R O M A T IC S / F O R T IFIE D W IN E S SUCH AS PORT, M A D E IR A , OR S H E R R Y / W HOLE

B UTTE R , COLD OR AT R OOM TE M P E R A TU R E
simmer; skim as necessary.

Add the thickening agent.
G a m i s h i n g A garnish of precooked high-moisture ingredients may be
5. Strain.
added before serving:
6. Finish, garnish, and use.
M U S H R O O M S / SH A L LO T S / TO M ATO ES
c h a p te r 13 SA UCES
269
1. brown the bones,
trim , and m ire poix
in a ro a s tin g pan or h e a v y -b o tto m e d s to c k p o t. The fla v o r

o f th e base s to c k is usually f o r t if ie d w ith w e ll-b row n ed
m ea ty bones, lean trim m eat, and m ire poix, or a com
m ercial base. B row ning the se in g re d ie n ts w ill enrich the
fin is h e d sauce and help darken its color. Brown them by
ro a s tin g in a litt le o il in a h o t oven (425 to 4 5 0 F /2 1 8
to 232C ) o r over m edium to high heat on the sto v e to p
in th e same large s to c k p o t th a t w ill be used to sim m er
the sauce. L e t th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix reach a
deep golden brown. A llo w th e to m a to paste to "cook out"
(pince) u n til ru s t colore d to reduce excessive sweetness,
a cid ity, and b itte rn e s s . This m etho d also encourages the
d e velopm e nt o f th e sauce's overall fla v o r and aroma. If
b ro w n ing th e m ire p o ix in the oven, add th e to m a to p ro d
u ct to th e ro a s tin g pan w ith th e vegetables. If brow ning
th e m ire p o ix on th e s to ve to p , add th e to m a to p ro d u ct
when th e veg etab le s are nearly brow ned. Be c a re fu l not
to le t th e to m a to paste burn, as it cooks o u t v e ry qu ickly
on th e sto ve to p .
If you brow ned the bones, trim , and m ire p o ix in the
oven, tra n s fe r the m to th e s to c k p o t. Discard any excess
fa t, deglaze th e ro a s tin g pan, and add the deglazing liquid

to the sauce. O therw ise, deglaze th e s to c k p o t w ith some
o f the stock.
Add th e rem a ining brow n s to c k to th e bones, trim , and
m ire p o ix and sim m er f o r 2 to 4 hours, skim m ing as neces
sary th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . (See photog rap h on
page 25 8.) L e t th e sauce base sim m er long enough fo r the
ric h e s t po ssib le fla v o r to develop. S kim th e surface o fte n
th ro u g h o u t sim m e rin g tim e . P ulling th e p o t o f f ce n te r on
th e bu rne r encourages im p u ritie s to c o lle c t on one side o f
th e pot, w here th e y are easier to collect.
2. add the sachet
a n d /o r o th e r a ro m a tics
as th e fla v o r develops, ab o u t an hour b e fo re straining.

S im m e ring develops fla v o r in tw o ways: e x tra c tin g fla v o r
fro m th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix and reducing th e v o l
ume o f liq u id to co n ce n tra te the flavo r. Taste th e sauce
base fre q u e n tly as it develops and ad ju st th e seasoning
as necessary by adding o r rem o ving aro m atics, such as a
sachet, or adding seasonings. Remove fro m the heat once
th e de sire d fla v o r is achieved, 3 to 5 hours.
O ptional: Add a pre pa red brow n roux now and sim m er
f o r 15 to 20 m inutes, if desired, to prepare an espagnole
sauce. For ju s lie, add a pure sta rch s lu rry e ith e r b e fo re or
a fte r stra in in g , if desired, and sim m er u n til thicke ne d, 2 to
3 m inutes.
270
brown sauce
3. strain the sauce using a fin e -m e sh sieve

or a double th ickn e ss o f cheesecloth. It is now ready to
fin is h f o r service o r may be cooled ra p id ly and sto re d . The
te x tu re , and to som e e xte n t, th e co lo r o f a brow n sauce
depend on th e ty p e o f th ic k e n e r used. A rou x-th icke ned
brown sauce (espagnole) is opaque w ith a th ic k body. A
sauce thicke ne d w ith pureed m ire poix is also th ic k and
opaque but w ith a s lig h tly rougher, m ore ru s tic te x tu re . A
sauce thicke ne d w ith bo th roux and red uctio n (dem i-glace)
is tra n slu ce n t and highly glossy, w ith a noticeable body,
although it should never fe e l ta cky in the mouth. A pure
sta rch -th icke n e d sauce (jus lie), as shown in the accom pa
nying photograph, has a g re a te r degree o f c la rity than oth er
brown sauces, as w ell as a lig h te r te x tu re and color. How
ever, it cannot be cooled and reheated like a roux thickened
sauce because the starch w ill lose its thicke ning power.
Finish as desired and hold a t 16 5F /74C fo r service.
If th e sauce base has been cooled, re tu rn it to a s im
m er and make any necessary a d ju s tm e n t to its fla v o r or
consistency. If th e sauce req uire s a d d itio n a l thicke ning,
e ith e r reduce it by s im m e rin g over m edium heat to the
de sire d th ickn e ss o r nappe or add a sta rch s lu rry now. If
th e sauce has alrea dy been th icke n e d w ith a roux or by
red uctio n, no a d d itio n a l th ic k e n e r is necessary.
Brow n sauces can be fin is h e d fo r service by adding
red uctio ns, f o r t if ie d wines, garnishes, a n d /o r w hole b u t
ter. Brown sauces so m e tim e s develop a skin when the y
are held uncovered. To avoid th is , use a f it te d cover fo r
th e b a in -m a rie or a piece o f pa rchm e nt paper o r p la s tic
wrap cu t to f i t d ire c tly on th e surface o f th e sauce.
4. a brown sauce o f e xce lle n t q u a lity has a

fu ll, rich fla vo r. The in itia l ro a s tin g o f bones, trim m in g s,
and m ire p o ix gives th e fin is h e d sauce a plea sant roa ste d
or caram el arom a, re a d ily d isce rn ib le when th e sauce is
heated, and a p re d o m in a n t fla v o r o f ro a ste d m ea t or veg
etables. The m ire p o ix, to m a to , and a ro m a tics should n o t
ove rpo w er th e main fla v o r. There should be no b itte r or
b u rn t fla vo rs.
Good brow n sauces have a deep brow n co lo r w ith o u t
any dark specks o r debris, as shown on rig h t. The color
is a ffe c te d by th e c o lo r o f th e base sto ck, th e am ount
o f to m a to p ro d u c t used (to o much w ill give a red cast to
th e sauce), th e am ount o f c a ra m e liza tio n on th e trim and
m ire poix, p ro p e r skim m ing, and th e length o f sim m e ring
tim e (re d u ctio n fa c to r), as w e ll as any fin is h in g o r g a rn ish
ing in g re d ie n ts.
ch a p te r 13 SAUCES
271
Examples of Brown Sauce Derivatives

NAME OF DERIVATIVE
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING
TYPICALLY SERVED WITH
BIGARADE
C aram elized sugar d ilu te d w ith vinegar,

ora n g e ju ice , and lem on ju ices. Finish
w ith blanched fin e ly ju lie n n e d orange
and lem on zests
F eath ered game, duck
BORDELAISE
Red wine, sh a llo ts, pe pp ercorn s, thym e,

and bay leaf. Finish w ith lem on ju ice,
m ea t glaze, and diced or sliced poached
bone m arro w
G rille d red m eats, fis h (in

c o n te m p o ra ry cooking)
BOURGUIGNONNE
Red w ine, sh a llo ts, thym e, parsley, bay

leaf, and m ushroom s. Finish w ith w hole
b u tte r and a pinch o f cayenne pe pp er
Eggs o r b e e f
BRETONNE
Onions, b u tte r, w h ite wine, to m a to e s ,

and g a rlic. Finish w ith a pinch o f
Green Beans a la B retonne
co a rse ly chopped parsley

CHARCUTIERE
Sauce R o b e rt fin is h e d w ith ju lie n n e d

cornichons
Sm oked pork
CH ASSEUR/
M ushroom s, s h a llo ts, w h ite wine,
B e e f and fu rre d game
H U N T S M A N S
brandy, and to m a to e s . Finished w ith

b u tte r and herbs (tarrag on , che rvil, a n d /
o r parsley)
CHERRY
P o rt wine, pa te spice, orange ze st and

ju ice , red cu rra n t je lly , and che rries
Duck o r venison
P oivrade Sauce w ith bacon in the
B eef, fe a th e re d o r fu rre d game
CHEVREUIL
m ire p o ix, red wine. (Use game trim m in g s

in place o f bacon fo r fe a th e re d game.)
Finish w ith a pinch o f sugar and cayenne
DIANE
M ire p o ix , game trim , bay leaf, thym e,
F eath ered o r fu rre d game
parsley, w h ite wine, and pe pp ercorn s.

Finish w ith b u tte r, w h ip p e d cream , and
sm all cre sce n ts o f t r u f fle and cooked
egg w h ite
272
FINANCIERE
M adeira w ine and t r u f f le essence
B ee f
GENEVOISE/GENOISE
M ire p o ix , salm on trim , and red wine.

Finish w ith anchovy essence and b u tte r
Salm on and tr o u t
GRATIN
W h ite wine, fish , sh a llo ts, and parsley
Sole or o th e r w h ite fis h
ITALIENNE
T om atoes and ham. (When p re p a rin g fo r

fish , o m it ham.) Finish w ith ta rra g o n ,
che rvil, and parsley
P o u ltry o r fis h
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING
MATELOTE
Red wine, m ushroom s, fis h trim , parsley,

and cayenne
Eel
M USHROOM
M ush roo m s and b u tte r
B eef, veal, p o u ltry
POIVRADE
M ire p o ix, gam e trim , bay leaf, thym e,

parsley, w h ite wine, and pe pp ercorn s.
Finish w ith b u tte r
F urred game
REGENCE
Red wine, m ire p o ix, b u tte r, and t r u f fle
S auteed live rs and kidneys
ROBERT
Onions, b u tte r, and w h ite w ine. Finish

w ith a pinch o f sugar and English dry
G rille d p o rk
brown sauce
NAME OF DERIVATIVE
m ustard , d ilu te d
ZIN G AR A
S h a llo ts, bread crum bs, and b u tte r.

Finish w ith p a rsle y and lem on ju ice
Veal o r p o u ltry
c h a p te r 13 SAUCES
273
The
w hite sa u c e
FAMILY
includes
TH E C L A S S I C S A U C E S V E L O U T E A ND B E C H A M E L , BOTH P R O DU CE D
BY THI CK E N IN G A LIQUID WITH ROUX . A
CLASSIC VELOUTE, WHICH TR A NSLA TES FROM FREN C H AS
" V E L V E T Y , S O F T , A N D S M O O T H TO T H E P A L A T E , " IS P R E P A R E D B Y F L A V O R I N G A W H I T E S T O C K ( V E A L ,
CH ICKEN, OR
fish
) W I T H A R O M A T I C S A N D T H I C K E N I N G IT W I T H B L O N D R O U X . I n E S C O F F I E R S T I M E , A
B E C H A M E L S A U C E W A S M A D E B Y A D D I N G C R E A M TO A R E L A T I V E L Y T H I C K V E L O U T E S A U C E . T O D A Y , IT IS
M A D E BY T H I CK E NI NG MI L K ( S O M E T I M E S IN FU S ED WITH A R O M A T I C S FOR F LA V O R ) WITH A PA L E ROUX.
white sauce
S tock (veal, chicken, fish, or vegetable) or m ilk used to make w h ite sauces may be bro ug ht to
a sim m er and, if desired, infused w ith aro m atics and fla vo rin g s to produce a special fla v o r
a n d /o r color in the fin ish e d sauce. Blond roux is the tra d itio n a l th icke n e r fo r veloutes; blond
or w h ite roux may be used fo r a bechamel (the darker the roux, th e m ore golden th e sauce
w ill be). The am ount o f roux d e term in es the thickness o f a w h ite sauce (see page 246).
A d d itio n a l m ire poix, m ushroom trim , o r m em bers o f th e onion fa m ily are som etim es
added, e ith e r to stre n g th e n the fla v o r o f th e sauce or to cre a te a sp e c ific fla v o r p ro file .
Cut the m in to sm all dice or slice them th in ly to encourage rapid fla v o r release in to the
sauce.
W hite sauces scorch easily, and th e y can ta ke on a grayish cast if prepared in an alu
m inum pan. Choose a heavy nonalum inum p o t w ith a p e rfe c tly f la t b o tto m f o r th e best
results. S im m er w h ite sauces on a fla tto p fo r gentle, even heat, o r use a heat d iffu s e r if
available.
The liquid used to make a w h ite sauce is d iffe re n t depending on the desired use and
w h e th e r it is a ve lo u te or a bechamel. Liquids used to make ve lo u te include w h ite veal
stock, chicken stock, fis h stock, or veg etab le stock. The liquid used to make becham el is
ty p ic a lly m ilk.
274
STOCKS, SAUCES, A N D SO U P S
White Sauce
Butter or oil, as needed
1 lb/ 454 g White or Blond

Roux (page 246)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
Aromatics (white mirepoix,
minced onions or oignon
pique, or mushroom trim;
meat trim), as needed
5 q t/4.80 L flavorful liquid

(white stock for veloute;
1 Standard Sachet dEpices or
milk for bechamel)

Seasonings, as appropriate,
as needed
method
at-a-glance
Sweat aromatics, if
necessary. Make or soften
roux.
Combine liquid and roux.
white sauce
Q basic formula
expert tips
Additional seasonings
may be added depending on the desired
flavor profile and the richness of the stock. Mirepoix and vegetable trim from
mushrooms or onions would be added at the beginning of the cooking process,
while aromatics such as a sachet should be added during the last 30 minutes
of simmering. When adding cheese, it should be grated and stirred in after the
Bring to a boil.
sauce has been thickened, and simmered before straining.
Pull the pot o ff center of

the heat.
ADDITIONAL SEASONINGS
A SA C H E T D 'E P IC ES OR B O U Q U E T G A R NI / R O ASTED TO M ATO PR OD UC T /
Skim and s tir frequently.

Simmer. Add seasonings as
needed.
GRATED CHEESE
Using d iffe re n t amounts o f roux vary the consistency of

sauce, which is necessary depending on the desired use. The following amounts
Strain.
are based on 1 gal/3.84 L liquid.
Finish, garnish, and use, or

cool and store.
For a light consistency fo r soups, add 10 to 12 o z /2 8 4 to 3 4 0 g blond or

white roux.
For medium consistency fo r most sauces, increase the amount of roux to 12
to 14 o z /3 4 0 to 3 9 7 g.
For heavy consistency as a binder fo r croquettes, fillings, stuffings, or baked
pasta dishes, increase the amount of roux to 1 lb 2 oz to 1 lb 4 o z /5 1 0 to 5 6 7 g.
A heavy bechamel
should be strained by the wringing method us
ing cheesecloth because it is too thick to pass through a fine-mesh strainer.
c h a p te r 13 SAUCES
275
1. sweat the aromatics in a sm all

am ount o f b u tte r o r oil. A ny m ea t trim included should be
g e n tly cooked w ith th e m and n o t brow ned a t all. There are
several m etho ds o f in c o rp o ra tin g th e roux in to the w h ite
sauce. The f ir s t is to add flo u r to th e f a t and aro m atics
in th e p o t and cook, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . The roux is then
cooked in th e pot, as p a rt o f th e sauce-m aking process
("singer"). Add m ore o il o r b u tte r as needed to produce a
roux o f th e a p p ro p ria te consistency. L e t th e roux cook fo r
ab ou t 4 to 5 m in u te s o r to a lig h t blond co lo r (as shown in
th e accom panying photograph).
A n o th e r m etho d is to add a pre pa red roux to th e s o f t
ened a ro m atics. A fin a l m ethod is to add th e liquid to the
a ro m a tics and b rin g it to a sim m er; later, w h isk a prepared
roux in to th e sim m e rin g liquid. In e ith e r case, the roux
should be w arm when it is added to th e h o t stock.
Add th e liquid to th e roux gradually. M any chefs add
cool or ro o m -te m p e ra tu re s to c k o r m ilk to the roux. O th
ers p re fe r to b rin g th e liq u id to a sim m er separately,
which allow s the m to ad ju st th e seasoning w ith salt,
pepper, o r o th e r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts. If th e liquid is
preheated, it should be rem oved fro m th e heat so th a t its
te m p e ra tu re dro ps s lig h tly , m aking it coo le r than the hot

roux. Add th e liq u id in stages, w h iskin g u n til very sm ooth
betw een ad d itio n s.
2. add the sachet, seasoning, or

o th e r a ro m a tics and sim m e r fo r 30 m in utes on low to m e
dium heat, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly and ta s tin g th ro u g h o u t the
cooking tim e . V ery rich sto c k s may n o t req uire a d d itio n a l
a ro m atics. If desired, e ith e r in fu se the liquid w ith them
when p re h e a tin g o r add a sach et o r bouq ue t garni once
th e sauce re tu rn s to a sim m er. A sim m e ring tim e o f at
le a st 30 m in utes is long enough to cook away any raw f la
v o r fro m th e roux. Use a wooden spoon to s tir the sauce
occa sio nally w h ile it sim m ers. Make sure th a t the spoon
scrapes th e b o tto m and corners o f the pot, to prevent
scorching. (S corching is o f m ore concern w ith becham el
than w ith velou te , because m ilk solids ten d to se ttle .)
Taste th e sauce fre q u e n tly as it develops, a d ju stin g
th e seasoning as necessary. To te s t th e te x tu re , hold a
sm all am ount o f th e sauce on y o u rto n g u e and press it
a g ainst th e ro o f o f your m outh. If the sauce is ad eq ua te ly
cooked, th e re w ill be no ta cky, gluey, o r g r itty sensation.
276
white sauce
3. strain the sauce. As the sauce sim m ers,

it a lm o st in e v ita b ly develops a th ic k skin on its surface as
w e ll as a heavy, gluey layer on th e b o tto m and sides o f the
pot. S tra in in g th e sauce rem oves any lum ps and develops
a very sm oo th te x tu re . The sauce is ready to use now, or it
may be cooled and s to re d f o r la te r use. Finish as desired
and hold th e sauce a t 1 6 5 F /7 4 C f o r service.
If th e sauce has been cooled, re tu rn it to a sim m er
over low heat, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . M ake any necessary ad
ju s tm e n ts to th e con sisten cy, and add any fin is h in g in g re
dients. For w h ite sauce d e riv a tiv e s , th e base sauce may
be fla v o re d w ith a re d u ctio n or essence and garnished.
W h ite sauces are also o fte n fin is h e d w ith cream.
W h ite sauces may develop a skin i f held uncovered. To
avoid th is, use a f it t e d cover on th e bain -m a rie or place a
piece o f p a rchm e nt paper o r p la s tic w rap d ire c tly on the
surface o f th e sauce. An e xce lle n t w h ite sauce m eets sev
eral c rite ria . The fla v o r re fle c ts th e liq u id used in its p re p
aration. The sauce should be tra n slu ce n t, w ith a d e fin ite
sheen. A good w h ite sauce is p e rfe c tly sm ooth, w ith no
tic e a b le body and no graininess. It is th ic k enough to coa t
th e back o f a spoon y e t s till easy to pour fro m a ladle.
277
Examples of Sauce Veloute Derivatives

NAME OF DERIVATIVE
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND

FINISHING
ALBUFERA
Sauce Suprem e, m ea t glaze, and

p im ie n to b u tte r
Poached and braised p o u ltry
ALLEM AN D E/PAR ISIEN N E
M ushroom s, egg y olks, and

lem on
P o u ltry
AMERICAINE
Anchovies, fis h trim , and b u tte r
Fish
AURORE
Tom ato puree
Eggs, w h ite m eat, and p o u ltry
AURORE MAIGRE
Fish trim and b u tte r
Fish
AUXCREVETTES
Fish trim , cream, shrim p shells,

and b u tte r
Fish and ce rta in egg dishes
BERCY
S ha llots, w h ite wine, fis h trim ,
Fish
b u tte r, and chopped parsley

BONNEFOY
W h ite B ord elaise w ith w h ite

wine and ve lo u te in ste a d o f
espagnole. Finish w ith ta rra g o n
G rille d fis h and w h ite m eats
BRETONNE
Fish trim , cream , leeks, celery,
Fish
onions, and m ushroom s

CHIVRY
W h ite wine, che rvil, parsley,

ta rra g o n , s h a llo ts, chives, and
Poached and b o ile d p o u ltry
fre s h young salad b u rn e t

DIPLOMATE
Fish trim , b u tte r, lo b s te r m eat,
W hole large fis h
and t r u f fle
NORMANDE
Fish trim , m ushroom s, mussels,

le m o n ju ic e , and egg yolks
Sole N orm ande and a w ide range

o f o th e r fis h dishes. A lso used
as base
SUPREME
M ushroom s, cream , and b u tte r
P o u ltry
VILLERO Y
M ushroom s, egg yolks, lemon,

ham, and t r u f fle
Used to co a t ite m s to be
breaded
VIN BLANC
Fish trim , egg yolks, and b u tte r
Fish
N A M E OF D E R IVA TIVE
FLAVOR A D D IT IO N S AND
F I N I S H IN G
T Y P IC A L L Y S ER VED W IT H
BOHEMIENNE
Tarragon. Served cold
Cold fis h , poached salm on
CARDINAL
T ru ffle s and lo b s te r
Fish, tr u ffle s , and lo b s te r
ECOSSAISE/SCOTCH EGG
Eggs
Eggs
H O M A R D A L A N G LA IS E /
A nchovy essence. G arnished w ith
Fish
LOBSTER
diced lo b s te r m e a t and cayenne
HUITRES/OYSTER
O yster. G arnished w ith sliced poached

o yste rs
Poached fis h
MORNAY
G ruyere and Parm esan. Finish w ith

b u tte r
Poached fis h
SAUCE A L'AN G LAISE/ EGG
Eggs and nutm eg
D e sse rt sauces
chapter 13 S A U C E S
white sauce
Examples of Sauce Bechamel Derivatives
279
To m
ato
s a u c e s
of
a l l
so rts
fro m
fr esh
and
sim ply
s e a s o n e d
to
c o m p l e x
and
highly
S E A S O N E D , A R E F E A T U R E D IN C U I S I N E S A R O U N D T H E W O R L D . T O M A T O S A U C E IS A G E N E R I C T E R M U S E D
TO D E S C R I B E A N Y S A U C E B A S E D M A I N L Y O N T O M A T O E S . T O M A T O S A U C E S C A N B E M A D E S E V E R A L W A Y S .
Th
e y m a y be raw or c o o k e d
,a
n y w h e r e f r o m t e n m in u t e s to s e v e r a l h o u r s
O L I V E O I L IS T H E O N L Y C O O K I N G FAT. F
or
. In
so m e v e r s io n s
O T H E R S , R E N D E R E D S A L T P O R K O R B A C O N IS R E Q U I R E D . S O M E
RE CI PE S C A L L FOR RO AS TE D V E A L OR PO R K BONES; OT HE R S AR E M A D E ST RI CT L Y F R O M TO MA TO ES AND

OTHER V E G E T A B L E S . S O M E TOMATO S A U C E S A RE P U R E ED UNTIL S MOO TH W H I L E OT HE RS ARE LEFT
CH U N K Y . E S C O F F I E R 'S TOMATO S A U C E RE LIE D ON R O U X AS A TH IC KE NE R .
tomato sauce
Good to m a to sauce can be made fro m fre s h or canned to m a to e s. When fre s h to m a to e s
are a t th e ir peak, it may be a good idea to use them exclusively. A t o th e r tim e s o f the year,
g o o d -q u a lity canned to m a to e s are a b e tte r choice. Plum to m a to e s, som etim es re fe rre d
to as Romas, are gene rally p re fe rre d fo r to m a to sauces because the y have a high ra tio o f
fle s h to skin and seeds. Fresh to m a to e s may be skinned and seeded f o r sauce, or the y may
be sim p ly rinsed, cored, and qu a rte re d or chopped. Canned to m a to e s come peeled and
whole, crushed or pureed, o r a com b in ation o f th e tw o. Tom ato paste is som etim es added
to th e sauce as well.
There are many choices fo r a d ditiona l fla v o rin g ingredients. Some recipes call fo r a sta n
dard m ire poix as the aro m atic vegetable com ponent, w hile oth ers rely on ga rlic and onions.
Choose a heavy-gauge p o t made o f nonreactive m a te ria ls such as stain le ss stee l or
anodized alum inum , because to m a to e s have a high acid con te n t. Because o f the high sugar
co n te n t o f some to m a to e s, you w ill need to e sta blish an even heat w ith o u t h o t spo ts so
the sauce w ill not scorch. Use a fo o d m ill to puree th e sauce. For a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re , you
may w ish to use a blender, im m ersion blender, or fo o d processor.
A good to m a to sauce is opaque and s lig h tly coarse, w ith a co n ce n tra te d fla v o r o f t o
m atoes and no tra ce o f b itte rn e s s or excess a c id ity or sw eetness. The in gre die nts selected
to fla v o r th e sauce should provide only su b tle underpinnings. Tom ato sauces should pour
easily. The sauce on th e rig h t was not pureed w hile the sauce on th e le ft was pureed using
the fin e opening o f a fo o d m ill.
280
S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
Tomato Sauce
(1 gal/3.84 L)
2 f I oz/60 mL oil or other cooking fat
12 oz/340 g minced onion
2 tbsp/18 g garlic, minced
10 to 12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg
fresh tomatoes or 5 qt/4.80 L
canned tomatoes with liquid
smoked meats, stock, thickener

(roux or pure starch slurries)
Salt, as needed
Additional ingredients or
preparations (depending on
Ground black pepper, as needed
tomato sauce
Q basic formula
formula or intended use): tomato

puree and/or paste, carrots or
mirepoix, fresh and/or dried herbs,
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Sweat the onion and garlic.

2. Add the remaining
ingredients and bring to a

simmer.
3. S tir frequently.
Simmer.
To develop d iffe re n t flavors,
add any of the following ingre
dients at the appropriate time. Some are added early in the cooking process,
while others are added near the end so they retain their individual flavor and
fresh taste. Onions and other aromatics added at the very beginning of the
cooking process may be sauteed until lightly browned rather than until just
Puree, if desired.
Finish, garnish, and use, or
cool and store.
tender for additional depth of flavor.

FRESH A N D /O R D RIED HERBS / S M O K ED M E A TS / S M O K E D H AM BONE OR PORK
BONE / TO M ATO PASTE OR PUREE / O N IO N S A ND C ARROTS, SW EATED AND
C H O P P E D /S T O C K
When appropriate,
a tomato sauce may be thickened with any of
the following:
R O U X / PURE STARCH S LU R R IE S
The type o f tom a to product
used will have a definite effect
on the final product. Any of the following may be used, alone or in combination:
FRESH TO M ATO E S / C AN N ED TO M ATOES: W H O LE, PEELED, D IC E D , PUREED, OR
C R U S H E D /T O M A T O PASTE
Depending on
the desired finished consistency of the tomato sauce,
it may be pureed.
281
1. cook the onions and garlic w ith

oil in a heavy-gauge n o nre active s to c k p o t o r saucepot
u n til te n d e r and to th e desired color. Sw eat or saute the
a ro m a tic veg etab le s g e n tly to release th e ir fla v o r in to
th e f a t to help th e fla v o r pe rm e a te the sauce. The way
th e veg etab le s are cooked in flue nces th e fla v o r o f the
fin is h e d sauce: th e veg etab le s are usually sw eated in a fa t
u n til th e y becom e tender, b u t f o r a m ore com plex ro a ste d
flavo r, th e y may be sauteed u n til lig h tly browned.
2 .
add the tomatoes and any rem aining
in g re d ie n ts and sim m e r u n til th e fla v o r is fu lly developed.

S tir fre q u e n tly , skim m ing and ta s tin g th ro u g h o u t the
coo kin g tim e . If desired, add fre s h herbs ju s t b e fo re the
sauce has fin is h e d cooking. (A fre s h c h iffo n a d e o f basil
can be added a t th is point.)
C ooking tim e varies, depending on th e ingredients.

B ut in general, th e less coo kin g tim e , th e b e tte r f o r any
sauce based on fr u its or veg etab le s. E xtended cooking d i
m inishes th e fre s h fla v o rs . M o s t to m a to sauces should be
cooked ju s t long enough fo r the fla v o rs to m eld tog ether.
If a to m a to sauce th a t is n o t go in g to be pureed is to o
w a te ry, s tra in it and reduce th e excess liquid sep ara te ly
to avoid overcooking.
S tir to m a to sauce fre q u e n tly th ro u g h o u t pre pa ration ,
and check th e fla v o r occasionally. If it becom es necessary
to c o rre c t a harsh or b itte r fla vo r, sw e at a sm all am ount
o f chopped onion and c a rro t and add the m to the sauce. If
th e fla v o r is weak, add a sm all am ount o f reduced to m a to
pa ste or puree. Too much sw eetness may be c o rre cte d by
adding stock, w a te r, or m ore to m a to e s.
Puree th e sauce, i f desired, using a fo o d m ill. If using a
blender, a sm all am o un t o f o il added durin g p ureeing w ill
e m u ls ify th e sauce, c re a tin g a lig h te r y e t th ic k e r con sis
tency. Pureeing the sauce w ith a blen der w ill lighte n the
co lo r o f the sauce, changing it fro m red to orange, which
may n o t be desirable.
Check the balance and seasoning o f th e sauce and
make any necessary a d ju stm e n ts to its fla v o r and con sis
te n cy by adding s alt, pepper, fre s h herbs, or o th e r in g re
d ie n ts as in d ica te d in the recipe. A t th is po in t, th e sauce
is ready to be served. It may be fin is h e d f o r service as
desired (see recipes), o r it may be cooled and stored .
282
N O T O N L Y O N S K I L L F U L L Y C O M B I N I N G EG G Y O L K S , W A T E R , A C I D , A N D B U T T E R I N T O A R I C H , S M O O T H S A U C E ,
B U T A L S O O N T H E Q U A L I T Y O F T H E B U T T E R I T S E L F . H O L L A N D A I S E S A U C E IS P R E P A R E D B Y E M U L S I F Y I N G
M E L T E D OR C L A R I F I E D B U T T E R A N D W A T E R ( i N T H E F O R M O F A N A C I D I C R E D U C T I O N A N d / o R L E M O N J U I C E )
W I T H P A R T I A L L Y C O O K E D EG G Y O L K S .
hollandaise sauce
hollandaise sauce
S i n c e t h e l a r g e s t p a r t o f h o l l a n d a i s e is b u t t e r , t h e s u c c e s s o r f a i l u r e o f t h e s a u c e d e p e n d s
A num ber o f sim ila r w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauces, as th is group o f sauces is som etim es
known, can be prepared by varying the in g re d ie n ts in the re d u ctio n o r by adding d iffe r
e n t fin is h in g and garnishing in g re d ie n ts such as tarrag on . The group includes bearnaise,
choron, and m ousseline sauces. H ollandaise can also be com bined w ith w hipped cream
a n d /o r ve lo u te to prepare a glagage, and used to coa t a dish th a t is then lig h tly browned
under a salam ander o r b ro ile r ju s t b e fo re service.
M e lte d w hole b u tte r or c la rifie d b u tte r may be used in a hollandaise. Some chefs like
m e lte d w hole b u tte r f o r th e rich, cream y fla v o r it im p a rts to a sauce b e st f o r m ost meat,
fish, vegetable, and egg dishes. O thers p re fe r c la rifie d b u tte r, f o r a s t if fe r sauce, o f par
tic u la r advantage if the sauce is to be used in a glagage. W hate ver th e approach, the b u tte r
m ust be q u ite w arm (about 14 5F /63C ) b u t n o t to o h o t f o r th e sauce to come to g e th e r
successfully.
In general, th e ra tio o f egg to b u tte r is 1 egg yo lk to every 2 to 3 o z /5 7 to 8 5 g b u tte r. As
th e volum e o f sauce increases, th e am ount o f b u tte r th a t can be e m u lsifie d w ith 1 egg yolk
also increases. A hollandaise made w ith 20 yolks, fo r instance, can usually to le ra te m ore
than 3 o z /8 5 g b u tte r per yolk. P asteurized egg yolks may be used f o r hollandaise, if de
sired. However, the m ethod o u tlin e d here cooks th e yolks enough th a t salm onella bacteria,
a m ajor concern w ith eggs, are rendered harm less.
An acidic in g re d ie n t is included in hollandaise bo th f o r fla v o r and f o r the e ffe c t it has
on th e p ro te in in th e egg yolks. The acidic in gre die nt, w hich can be e ith e r a vinegar red uc
tio n a n d /o r lem on juice, also provides the w a te r necessary to fo rm an em ulsion. W hether
to use a re d u ctio n or lem on ju ice is de te rm in e d by the desired fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d sauce.
A re d u ctio n w ill im p a rt a m ore com plex fla vo r, p a rtic u la rly i f lem on ju ice is also used as a
fin a l seasoning.
One o f the keys to
successfully making
hollandaise sauce is
having all o f the mise
en place prepared. This
fragile sauce, unlike many
other sauces, is prepared
in a single operation.
283
basic formula
Hoilandaise Sauce
2 fl oz/60 mL water, to refresh
20 fl oz/600 mL
and cool the reduction
12 fl oz/360 mL melted whole

butter or clarified butter
2 fl oz/60 mL reduction made
4 egg yolks or an equivalent
Lemon juice, as needed
from white wine, white wine

or cider vinegar, minced
shallots, and peppercorns
quantity of pasteurized
egg yolks (3'A oz/99 g)
Salt, as needed
Hot sauce or cayenne, as needed
method
at-a-glance
x. Make the reduction.
2. Add the egg yolks and
blend.
3. Place the bowl over
simmering water.
Melted whole b u tte r or clarified butter may be used in a hollandaise. Melted whole butter provides a richer, creamier texture, while clarified
butter provides a stiffer, more stable sauce.
The acidic ingredient
can be varied when making the sauce, de
pending on the desired flavor, such as:
4. Whip.
5. Gradually add warm bu tte r
and whip.
V IN E G A R R E D U C TIO N / LEM O N JUICE
A number o f
similar warm butter emulsion sauces, as this group of
6. Strain.
sauces is sometimes known, can be prepared by varying the ingredients in the
7. Adjust seasoning and
reduction or by adding different finishing and garnishing ingredients:
serve, or hold.
LEM O N JUICE / C AYEN N E / M IN C E D H ERBS / FIN E LY D ICED TO M ATO OR C ITR U S

S U P R E M E S / M EAT GLAZE (GLACE DE V IA N D E ), TO M ATO PUREE, ESSENCES, OR
JUICES
Hoilandaise
can also be combined with whipped cream and/or veloute
to prepare a glai;age.
hollandaise sauce
1. make the standard reduction

fo r hollandaise. Reduce dry w h ite w ine o r cid e r vinegar,
sha llo ts, and cracked p e pp ercorn s over m od era te d ire c t
heat u n til nearly d ry (au sec) in a sm all, n o n re a ctive sauce
pot. Cool and m o iste n the re d u ctio n w ith a sm all am ount
o f w ater, the n s tra in it in to a m edium s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl.
2. add the egg yolks
to th e re d u ctio n and
w h isk over b a re ly sim m e rin g w a te r u n til th icke n e d and

w arm (14 5F /63C ). Be sure th a t th e w a te r is b a rely sim
m ering, w ith no v is ib le signs o f surface action, ju s t p le n ty
o f steam ris in g fro m th e surface. As the yolks becom e
warm , th e y w ill increase in volum e. If the yolks seem to be
g e ttin g to o h o t and c o a g u la tin g s lig h tly around th e sides
and b o tto m o f th e bowl, rem ove th e bow l fro m th e heat.
S et th e bow l on a cool surface and w h isk u n til the m ix tu re
has cooled ve ry s lig h tly . Place back on th e w a te r bath and
continue cooking. R eturn to coo kin g over ba rely sim m e r
ing w ater.
W hen th e yolks have trip le d in volum e, fa ll in ribbons
in to th e bowl, and th e w h isk leaves "tra ils " in them , rem ove
the m fro m th e s im m e rin g w a te r. Do n o t ove rcoo k the
yolks or th e y w ill lose th e ir a b ility to e m u ls ify th e sauce.
285
3. stabilize the bowl by s e ttin g it on a

to w e l o r in a p o t th a t has been draped w ith a tow e l, to
keep the bow l fro m slipping . Add th e b u tte r slo w ly in a
th in stream , w h iskin g c o n s ta n tly as it is in co rp o ra te d . The
sauce w ill begin to th icke n as m ore b u tte r is blended in. If
the sauce becom es to o th ic k , add a b it o f w a te r o r lemon
ju ice. This makes it po ssib le to fin is h adding the co rre c t
am ount o f b u tte r w ith o u t b re aking th e sauce.
If th e sauce becom es to o hot, th e egg yolks w ill begin
to scram ble. To c o rre c t th is problem , rem ove th e sauce
fro m th e heat and add a sm all am ount o f cool w ater.
W hisk th e sauce u n til it is sm oo th and, if necessary, stra in
it to rem ove any b its o f overcooked yolk.
Add seasonings such as lem on ju ice, salt, pepper, and
cayenne as desired, when the sauce is nearly finishe d.
Lemon ju ice w ill lighte n the sauce's fla v o r and te x tu re , but
do n o t le t it becom e a d o m in a n t ta s te . Add ju s t enough to
li f t th e fla vo r. If th e sauce is to o th ick, add a little warm
w a te r to regain th e desired lig h t te x tu re .
4. butter is the predominant fla v o r

and arom a o f a good hollandaise sauce. The egg yolks con
trib u te a g re a t deal o f fla v o r as w ell. The re d u ctio n in g re
d ie n ts give the sauce a balanced ta s te , as do the lemon
ju ice and any a d d itio n a l fin is h in g seasonings. H ollandaise
should be a le m on -ye llow co lo r w ith a sa tin y sm oo th te x
ture. (A gra in y te x tu re in d ica te s th a t th e egg yolks are
overcooked o r scram bled.) The sauce should have a lu ste r
and n o t appear oily. The co n siste n cy should be lig h t and
pourable.
Serve im m e d ia te ly or hold hollandaise a t or near
14 5F /63C fo r no m ore than 2 hours. M o st kitchens have
one or tw o spo ts th a t are the p e rfe c t te m p e ra tu re fo r hold
ing hollandaise, usually above the stove or ovens o r near
(but not d ire c tly under) heat lamps. Holding hollandaise
presents an unusual challenge, however. The sauce m ust be
held below 15 0F /66C to keep the yolks fro m curdling, but
a t th is te m p e ra tu re the sauce hovers ju s t above the danger
zone fo r ba cteria l g row th. The acid fro m the reduction
a n d /o r lemon ju ice help keep some bacteria a t bay, but the
sauce should never be held longer than 2 hours.
286
N A M E OF D E RIVA TIVE
FL A V O R A D D I T I O N S A N D
T Y P I C A L L Y S ER V E D W IT H
FIN I S H IN G
BAVAROISE
C ra yfish b u tte r, w h ipp ed cream,

and diced c ra y fis h ta il m ea t
Fish
BEARNAISE
Tarragon re d u ctio n . G arnish w ith

fre s h ta rra g o n and ch e rvil
G rille d m eats
CHORON
Bearnaise and to m a to
G rille d m e a t and p o u ltry
FOYOT/VALOIS
Bearnaise and glace de viande
G rille d m ea ts and o ffa l
MALTAISE
B lood oranges
A sparagus
MOUSSELINE
W hipped heavy cream
B oile d fish , asparagus
PALOISE
M in t re d u ctio n and fre s h m in t
G rille d m eats
ROYAL
Equal p a rts ve lo u te , hoilandaise,
Poached w h ite m eats and
and w h ip p e d heavy cream
sha llo w -p oach ed fis h
hoilandaise sauce
Examples of Hoilandaise Derivative Sauces
FIXING AND FINISHING HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

F IX IN G A H O L L A N D A IS E
liquid ingredients to the sauce gradually to
If the hoilandaise sauce does start to break,
avoid thinning it too much. If using clari
try adding a small amount of water and
fied butter to make the hoilandaise, save
whisking until the sauce is smooth before
the milk solids and use them to adjust the
adding more butter. If that doesnt work,
consistency of the finished sauce and add
cook another egg yolk and 1 tsp/5 mL wa
flavor. Including flavoring ingredients may
ter over simmering water until thickened,
mean that other seasonings and flavorings
and then gradually whisk the broken hoi
need to be adjusted again.
landaise into the new egg yolk. Note, how
Some hollandaise-style sauces are
ever, that a sauce restored in this manner
finished with minced herbs. Herbs should
will not have the same volume as a sauce
be properly rinsed, dried, and cut into
that did not have to be rescued, and it will

not hold as well.
uniform mince or chiffonade with a very

sharp knife to retain color and flavor.
Finely diced tomato or citrus supremes
F IN IS H IN G A H O L L A N D A IS E
may also be added to certain hollandaise-
Specific ingredients may be added to pro
style sauces; these garnishes should be
duce a derivative hoilandaise sauce after it
properly cut and allowed to drain so that
is made. Add glace de viande, tomato puree,
excess moisture does not thin the sauce.
essences or juices, or other semi-liquid or
ch a p te r 13 S A U C ES
287
Tr
a d itio n a lly
p r o c e s s
pr epa re
using
b eu r r e
the
red uction
b la n c
reduction
is
pr epa red
cooking
sepa ra tely
and
as
liquid
m a k e
the
an
(c
integral
u is s o n
b eu r r e
). A
part
of
n o ther
b la n c
the
c o m m o n
in a l a r g e r
U S ED A S A G R A ND S A U C E ON WHICH DE RIV ATIVE S A U C E S A R E BASED.
As
s h a l lo w
-po
aching
practice
batch
so
is
to
it c a n
be
WITH H O LLAN D AISE , B EU RR E
B L A N C D E R I V A T I V E S A R E P R E P A R E D B Y E I T H E R V A R Y I N G T H E I N G R E D I E N T S IN T H E R E D U C T I O N O R
A L T E R I N G T H E G A R N I S H I N G R E D I E N T S . B E U R R E R O U G E , F O R I N S T A N C E , IS M A D E B Y U S I N G R E D W I N E IN
THE REDUCTION.
beurre blanc
The q u a lity o f th e b u tte r is c ritic a l to the success o f a beurre blanc. U nsalted b u tte r is best
because th e s a lt level can b e tte r be co n tro lle d la te r on. Check th e b u tte r ca re fu lly fo r a
cream y te x tu re and sw e et aroma. Cube the b u tte r and keep it cool.
A standard red uctio n fo r a beurre blanc is made fro m d ry w h ite wine and shallots. (When
prepared as p a rt o f a shallow -poached dish, the cooking liquid becom es the red uctio n used
in the sauce; see page 540.) O ther in gre die nts o fte n used in the red uctio n include vinegar or
citru s juice; chopped herbs including tarragon, basil, chives, or chervil; cracked peppercorns;
and som etim es garlic, ginger, lemongrass, s a ffro n , and o th e r fla v o rin g ingredients.
A sm all am ount o f reduced heavy cream is occasionally added to sta b ilize the emulsion.
To use cream, reduce it by h a lf separately. C a refully sim m er the cream u n til it thicke ns and
has a rich, ivo ry-ye llo w color. The m ore reduced th e cream, th e g re a te r its s ta b iliz in g e f
fe c t. The m ore sta b le th e sauce, the longer it w ill la st during service. However, th e fla v o r o f
cream w ill overpow er th e fre sh ta s te o f the bu tte r.
Be sure th a t th e pan is o f a nonreactive m aterial. B i-m e ta l pans, such as copper or an
odized alum inum lined w ith stain le ss steel, are e xce lle nt choices f o r th is sauce.
A w hisk may be used to in co rp o ra te th e b u tte r in to the sauce, b u t many chefs p re fe r
to allow th e m o tio n o f the pan sw irlin g over the burner o r f la tto p to in co rp o ra te the bu tte r.
S train in g is o p tio n a l fo r th is sauce, b u t if you choose to s tra in e ith e r th e re d u ctio n or the
fin is h e d sauce, you w ill need a sieve. Once prepared, th e sauce may be kep t w arm in the
c on tain er used to prepare it, or it may be tra n s fe rre d to a clean bain -m a rie in sert, ceram ic
vessel, or w ide-necked vacuum b o ttle .
288
beurre blanc
Q basic formula
Beurre Blanc
1 lb 8 oz/680 g bu tte r
Ground white pepper, as needed
6 to 8 f l oz/180 to 240 mL
heavy cream (optional)
(1 qt/9 6 0 mL)
Reduction made from 8 fl oz/240
mL dry white wine, 3 to 6 f l oz/90
to 180 mL vinegar, 2 f l oz/60 mL
minced shallot, and peppercorns
Salt, as needed
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Make the reduction.

2. Whisk in the b u tte r and
cream, if using.
3. Season.
Strain.
Adjust the seasoning and
serve, or hold.
Additional ingredients
may be added to the reduction fo r
flavor:
V IN E G A R / C ITR U S JUICE / RED W IN E / CHO PPED HERBS / CRACKED PEPPER
CORNS / GA R LIC / G ING ER / LE M O N G R A SS / S A FFR O N
A small amount
of reduced heavy cream is occasionally added to
stabilize the sauce. If cream is used, reduce it by half separately. The more the
cream is reduced, the greater its stabilizing effect.
Straining is optional
fo rth is sauce, as the reduction ingredients
can be le ft in the sauce fo r texture and garnish.
289
1. prepare the initial reduction

o f wine, vinegar, sha llo ts, and peppercorns, which gives
th e sauce much o f its fla vo r, in a m edium nonreactive
sauce pot. O th er a ro m atics, such as bay leaves, may be
added as re q u ire d by th e recipe. Com bine th e re d u ctio n
in g re d ie n ts and reduce over fa irly brisk heat to a syrupy
con sisten cy (au sec). If p re p a rin g the sauce as an in te g ra l
p a rt o f a shallow -poached dish, sim p ly reduce th e cuisson
(see page 543).
Reduce th e heat to low. G radually in co rp o ra te the
b u tte r w ith a w h isk (as shown here) or by keeping the pan
in c o n s ta n t m otio n. The actio n is s im ila r to th a t used in
fin is h in g a sauce w ith b u tte r (m o n te r au beurre).
If the sauce looks oily ra th e r than creamy or if it ap
pears to be separating, it has g o tte n to o hot. Im m ediately
pull the pan o f f the heat and set it on a cool surface. C ontin
ue to add the b u tte r a little a t a tim e, w hisking u n til the m ix
tu re regains the pro pe r cream y appearance. Then continue
to in corp orate the rem ainder o f the b u tte r over low heat.
If th e b u tte r ta ke s a very long tim e to becom e in c o r
po ra te d in to th e sauce, increase th e heat under th e pan
ve ry s lig h tly .
2 .
make the necessary fin a l
a d ju stm e n ts to fla v o r and te x tu re by checking th e sea

soning and strain in g, i f desired. A lte rn a tiv e ly , the red uc
tio n in g re d ie n ts can be le ft in th e sauce f o r te x tu re and
garnish. If you did n o t s tra in the re d u ctio n earlier, you now
have th e o p tio n o f s tra in in g the sauce. If you do choose to
strain , w o rk q u ickly to keep th e sauce warm . Serve im m e
d ia te ly o r keep warm .
To prepare a large batch o f beurre blanc and hold it
th ro u g h a service period, use th e same holding techniques
de scrib ed f o r hoilandaise (see page 286). The sauce may
d e te rio ra te over tim e , however, and m ust be m o n ito re d
fo r qu ality.
The fla v o r o f beurre blanc is th a t o f w hole b u tte r w ith
p iq u a n t accents fro m th e re d u ctio n . The fin is h in g a n d /o r
ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts also in flue nce the flavo r. A good
beurre blanc is cream y in color, although garnishes may
change th e color. The sauce should have a d is tin c t sheen.
The body should be light. If the sauce is to o thin , it p ro b
ably does n o t contain enough b u tte r. Conversely, a beurre
blanc th a t is to o th ic k includes to o much b u tte r or cream.
The te x tu re should be fro th y , and th e sauce should not
leave an o ily o r greasy fe e lin g in th e m outh.
290
M o s t sauces have m ore than one fu n c tio n in a dish. A sauce th a t adds a c o u n te rp o in t flavor,
fo r exam ple, may also in tro d u ce te x tu ra l and visual appeal. Sauces gene rally serve one or
m ore o f th e fo llo w in g purposes.
INTRODUCE COMPLEMENTARY OR COUNTERPOINT FLAVORS

Sauces th a t are cla ssically paired w ith p a rtic u la r fo o d s illu s tra te th is fu n ctio n . Suprem e
sauce is based on a re d u ctio n o f chicken ve lo u te w ith chicken s to c k and fin ish e d w ith cream.
This ivo ry-co lo re d sauce has a deep chicken fla v o r and ve lv e ty te x tu re . When served w ith
chicken, the color and fla v o r o f th e sauce com p le m e nt the de lica te m ea t and help in te n s ify
its fla vo r. The cream in th e sauce rounds o u t th e fla vo rs.
purpose of sauces
purpose of sauces
C h arcu tiere sauce is made w ith m ustard and corn ich ons.T his sauce is pungent and f la
vo rfu l. When served w ith pork, the sharpness o f th e sauce in tro d u ce s a c o u n te rp o in t f la
vor, c u ttin g th e m e a ts richness and p ro vid in g a c o n tra s t th a t is pleasing b u t n o t s ta rtlin g
to th e palate. The sauce brings o u t the pork's fla v o r b u t m ig h t overw helm a m ore de lica te
m eat like veal.
A sauce th a t includes a fla v o r co m p le m e n ta ry to a fo o d enhances th e fla v o r o f th a t
fo o d . Tarragon heightens th e m ild sw eetness o f p o u ltry. A pungent green peppercorn
sauce hig h lig h ts th e rich fla v o r o f b e e f by deepening and enriching th e overall ta ste .
G astriques can add depth and com plexity to a finished sauce. G astriques are typica lly
made fro m equal parts sugar and acid and reduced by half over heat fo r use in sauces, soups,
and stews. They can be added either at the beginning o f cooking or the end. If the gastrique is
added at the beginning o f cooking, when m aking a reduction sauce, the appropriate sugar fo r
the dish is added a fte r the arom atics are cooked, and may even be caramelized, if appropri
ate, before the acid is added and reduced to sec. This is usually follow ed by the wine (if used),
which is also fu lly reduced, then the stock or demi-glaze, and reduced to taste. If the gastrique
is added a t the end o f cooking, as in a stew, it is made separately and added by the tablespoon
until a balance is perceived on the palate. A classic example o f a gastrique is the caram elization
o f sugar which is deglazed w ith orange juice and then reduced before adding duck demi-glaze
in Canard a Iorange. Examples o f sugars used in gastriques are granulated sugar, raw sugar,
honey, or red current jelly. Examples o f acids include vinegars, verjus, or acidic fr u it juice.
ADD MOISTURE OR SUCCULENCE

A sauce can add m o istu re to n a tu ra lly lean fo o d s (e.g., p o u ltry or fish ) o r when the cooking
tech niq ue used te n d s to have a d ryin g e ffe c t, such as g rillin g o r sauteing. G rilled fo o d s are
fre q u e n tly served w ith a w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauce like bearnaise, or a com pound butter,
salsa, or chutney. Beurre blanc is o fte n served w ith shallow -poached lean w h ite fis h to add
a b it o f succulence to the dish.
ADD VISUAL INTEREST

A sauce can enhance a dish's appearance by adding lu s te r and sheen. L ig h tly co a tin g a sau
te e d m edallion o f lamb w ith a jus lie creates a glossy fin is h on the lamb, g ivin g th e e n tire
p la te m ore eye appeal. Pooling a red pepper coulis beneath a g rille d s w o rd fish ste a k gives
th e dish a degree o f visual e xcite m e n t by adding an e lem e nt o f color.
ADJUSTTEXTURE
M any sauces include a garnish th a t adds te x tu re to the fin is h e d dish. A sauce fin ish e d w ith
to m a to e s and m ushroom s enhances chicken chasseur, w h ile a sm oo th sauce adds a te x
tu ra l c o n tra s t to p a n -frie d s o ft-s h e ll crab.
291
sauce pairing
C ertain classic sauce co m b in a tio n s endure because the
duces flavo rfu l drippings (fond), such as roasting
co m p o sitio n is w e ll balanced in all areas: ta s te , te x tu re ,
or sauteing, with a sauce th a t makes use of those
and eye appeal. When choosing an a p p ro p ria te sauce, it
drippings. Similarly, beurre blanc is suitable for
should be:
foods th a t have been shallow-poached because the

cooking liquid (cuisson) can become a part of the
SUITABLE FOR THE STYLE OF SERVICE. In a ban

quet setting or in any situation where large quanti
ties of food must be served rapidly and at the peak
sauce.
APPROPRIATE FOR THE FLAVOR OF THE FOOD
of flavor, choose a sauce th a t may be prepared in
W ITH W HICH IT IS PAIRED. Dover sole is p erfectly
advance and held in large quantities at the cor
complem ented by a delicate cream sauce. The
rect tem perature w ithout affe ctin g quality. In an
same sauce would be overwhelmed by the flavor
a la carte kitchen, sauces prepared a la minute are
o f grilled tuna. Lamb has its own strong flavor th at
more appropriate.
can stand up to a sauce flavored with rosemary.
MATCHED TO THE M AIN ING REDIENTS COOKING

TECHNIQUE. Pair a cooking technique th a t pro
The same sauce would com pletely overpower a

delicate fish.
guidelines for plating sauces

M AINTAIN CORRECTTEMPERATURE. Check
There should be enough sauce fo r every bite of the
sauced, and of the plate. Be sure th a t hot sauces
sauced food but not so much th at the dish looks
are extrem ely hot, warm emulsion sauces are as
swamped. Too much sauce disturbs the balance be
warm as possible w ithout danger of breaking, and
tw een the item s on the plate and makes it d ifficu lt
cold sauces remain cold until they come in contact
fo r the w aiter to carry the food from the kitchen
with hot foods.
to the guest's table w ithout at least some of the
C O N S ID E R T H E T E X T U R E O F T H E FOOD BEING
SERVED. Pool the sauce beneath the food, spread
ing it in a layer directly on the plate if the food has
a crisp or otherwise interesting texture. Spoon or
ladle the sauce evenly over the top of the food if it
could b en efit from a little cover or if the sauce has
visual appeal.
292
SERVE AN APPROPRIATE PORTION OF SAUCE.
the tem perature of the sauce, of the food being
sauce running onto the rim, or worse, over the edge

of the plate.
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 lb /9 0 7 g lean veal trim
Jus de Volaille Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock with

Brown Chicken Stock (page 264) and replace the veal
trim w ith an equal amount o f chicken trim.
Jus de Canard Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock w ith Brown
Duck Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim with an
equal amount o f duck trim .

2 o z/5 7 g tomato puree
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
3 to 4 o z/8 5 to 113 g arrowroot or cornstarch,
diluted with cold w ater or stock to make a slurry
Jus d'Agneau Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock with Brown
Lamb Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim w ith an
equal amount o f lamb trim.
sauce recipes
Jus de Veau Lie
Jus de G ibier Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock w ith Brown
Game Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim with an
equal amount o f venison trim .
Salt, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a small rondeau over medium heat.

Add the veal trim and mirepoix and saute, stirring
from time to time, until the veal, onions, and carrots
have taken on a rich brown color, 25 to 30 minutes.
Demi-Glace
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
2.. Add the tomato puree and continue to cook over

medium heat until it turns a rusty brown and has a
sweet aroma.
3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Continue to

simmer, skimming as necessary, until a good flavor
develops, 2 to 3 hours. Add the sachet during the last
hour of cooking time.
4 . Return the sauce base to a simmer. Stir the slurry to
1 . Combine the stock and espagnole sauce in a heavy

medium sauce pot and simmer over low to medium
heat until reduced by half, about 45 minutes. Skim
the sauce frequently as it simmers.
2 . Strain the sauce. The sauce is ready to serve now, or

it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later
use.
recombine if necessary and gradually add it to the

sauce base, adding just enough to achieve a good
coating consistency (nappe). The amount of slurry
needed depends on the batch itself and its intended
use. For example, a very rich stock may have signifi
cant body prior to thickening with the slurry and
will require less.
5 . Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper.

6 . Strain the sauce. The sauce is ready to serve now, or
it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
293
Espagnoie Sauce
Chicken Veloute
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 mL
2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243), separate
o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263), hot

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g Brown Roux (see page 246)
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Blond Roux (see page 246)

5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Heat the butter or oil in a saucepan over medium

heat. Add the mirepoix and cook, stirring from time
1 . Heat the oil in a rondeau over medium heat and sau
to time, until the onions are limp and have begun to
te the onions until translucent. Add the remaining
release their juices into the pan, about 15 minutes.
mirepoix ingredients and continue to brown, about
They may take on a light golden color but should not
10 minutes.
be allowed to brown.
2 . Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a rusty

brown and has a sweet aroma, 1 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the stock to deglaze the pan and bring it to a

simmer.
4 . Whisk the roux into the stock. Return to a simmer
2 . Add the roux to the mirepoix and cook until the roux
is very hot, about 2 minutes.
3 . Warm the stock and add to the pan gradually, stir

ring or whisking to work out any lumps. Bring to a
full boil, then lower the heat to establish a simmer.
and add the sachet. Simmer for about 1 hour, skim
Add the sachet and continue to simmer, skimming
ming the surface as necessary.
as necessary, until a good flavor and consistency de
5 . Strain the sauce. Taste the sauce and season with salt
and pepper. The sauce is ready to serve now, or it
may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
velop and the starchy feel and taste of the flour have
cooked away, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. Strain

a second time through a double thickness of rinsed
cheesecloth, if desired, for the finest texture.
5 . Return the sauce to a simmer. Taste the sauce and

season with salt and pepper. Finish the sauce as
desired.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled
rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
Suprem e Sauce: Add 1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream and 2
lb/907 g sliced mushrooms. Simmer the sauce, stirrin g
and skimming the surface frequently, until it coats the
back o f a spoon. If desired, the sauce may be finished
w ith 6 oz/170 g butter. Season w ith salt and pepper.
Fish Veloute: Replace the Chicken Stock w ith Fish Fumet
(page 26 4).
Shrim p V eloute: Replace the Chicken Stock with Shellfish
Stock (page 264), made w ith shrimp shells.
V egetable V eloute: Replace the Chicken Stock with
Vegetable Stock (page 265).
294
Tomato Sauce
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
2 flo z /6 0 m L o liv e o il
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onion
1 lb /4 5 4 g White Roux (see page 246)
5 q t/4 .8 0 L milk
5 q t/4 .8 0 L cored and chopped

plum tomatoes with liquid
Salt, as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
tb s p /1 8 g minced or thinly sliced garlic
sauce recipes
Bechamel Sauce
3 o z/8 5 g basil chiffonade

Salt, as needed
1 . Heat the butter or oil in a heavy bottomed, medium

sauce pot and add the onions. Saute over low to me
1 . Heat the oil in a medium nonreactive rondeau or
dium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are
wide shallow pot over medium-low heat. Add the
tender and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they
2 .. Add the roux to the onions and cook until the roux is
very hot, about 2 minutes.
3 . Warm the milk and add it to the pan gradually,

whisking or stirring to work out any lumps. Bring
the sauce to a full boil, then reduce the heat and sim
take on a light golden color, 12 to 15 minutes.
2 . Add the garlic and continue to saute, stirring fre

quently, until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1
minute.
3 . Add the tomatoes. Bring the sauce to a simmer and
mer on low heat until the sauce is smooth and thick
cook over low heat, stirring from time to time until a
ened, about 30 minutes. Stir frequently and skim as
good sauce-like consistency develops, about 45 min
necessary throughout the cooking time.
utes (exact cooking time depends on the quality of
4 . Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if using.

Strain through a fine-mesh strainer or a double
the tomatoes and their natural moisture content).
4 . Add the basil and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes more.
thickness of rinsed cheesecloth using the wringing
Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper if
method (see page 329).
necessary.
5 . Return the sauce to a simmer on low heat. Taste and
5 . The sauce may be pureed through a food mill fitted
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Finish the
with a coarse disk, broken up with a whisk to make a
sauce as desired.
rough puree, or left chunky.


NOTE: If desired, substitute 9 lb/4.08 kg canned whole plum
Cheddar Cheese Sauce: Add 1 lb /4 5 4 g g ra te d sharp

Cheddar.
M ornay Sauce: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g each grated Gruyere and
Parmesan. Finish w ith up to 8 oz/227 g whole butter, if
tom atoes fo r the fresh tomatoes. With canned tomatoes,

it m aybe necessary to drain o ff some o f the liquid first.
If desired, the canned whole tomatoes can be pureed in a
food mill before preparing the sauce.
desired.
Cream Sauce: Add 16 fl o z/4 80 mL heated heavy cream to
the finished bechamel and simmer fo r 4 to 5 minutes.
295
Bolognese Meat
S auce(Ragu
Bolognese)
Makes
6 . Stir in the cream just prior to service and return the

sauce to a simmer. Do not allow the sauce to boil.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

qt/ 9 6 0 mL
2 o z/5 7 g finely diced pancetta

1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
'/ 2
0 z /1 4 g butter
Tomato Coulis
Makes
qt/ 9 6 0 mL
5 o z/1 4 2 g fine-dice onion

2 o z/5 7 g fine-dice carrot
l
'/ 2
o z/4 3 g fine-dice celery
o z/2 2 7 g lean ground beef
o z/2 2 7 g lean ground pork
I V 2 o z/4 3 g tomato paste

8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
Salt, as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
8
fI o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, heated
1 . Combine the pancetta with the oil and butter in a

medium nonreactive stockpot. Cook over medium-
tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion

2
tsp / 6 g minced garlic
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL tomato puree

6
fl o z/1 8 0 mL red wine
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g peeled, seeded, and

medium-diced plum tomatoes
5 basil leaves
1
thyme sprig
bay leaf
Tomato water, as needed (optional)

Salt, as needed
low heat, stirring frequently, until the pancetta is

golden brown and the fat is rendered, about 15
minutes.
2 . Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the onions,
1 . Heat the oil in a small nonreactive sauce pot and

saute the onions until they are translucent, 6 to 8
minutes.
carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently,
2 . Add the garlic and saute it briefly until aromatic.
until the vegetables are softened and the onions are
3 . Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns a rusty
translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the beef and pork. Cook, stirring continuously,

until the meat is browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the
fat if necessary.
4 . Stir in the tomato paste and cook until lightly cara
brown and has a sweet aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the red wine, tomatoes, stock, basil, thyme, and

bay leaf. Simmer until a good sauce-like consistency
develops, about 45 minutes.
5 . Remove and discard the herbs. Pass the mixture
melized, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and reduce
through a food mill fitted with the coarse disk. Ad
the mixture until nearly dry.
just the consistency if necessary with tomato water,
5 . Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add the
if using, or more stock.
stock, bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat to
6 . Taste and season with salt and pepper. The sauce is
low, and simmer uncovered until the mixture has
ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and
reduced and the flavors have concentrated. Add ad

ditional stock if necessary to avoid scorching.
refrigerated for later use.
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
vinegar; replace the chopped tarragon and chervil with 3

tb s p /9 g chopped fresh m int leaves.
B f I o z/9 0 mL tarragon vinegar

3 tarragon stems, chopped
1
M in t Sauce (P aloise Sauce): Replace the tarragon stems

w ith m int stems; replace the tarragon vinegar with cider
tsp / 2 g cracked black peppercorns
Choron Sauce: S tir V/ 2 oz/43 g cooked tom ato puree into

the finished sauce. Adjust the sauces consistency with
w ater or lemon juice as needed.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry white wine
sauce recipes
Bearnaise Sauce
3 fl o z/9 0 mL water
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL egg yolks (about
fresh or pasteurized
),
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL melted whole or clarified butter, warm

3 tb sp /9 g chopped fresh tarragon
V / 2 tb sp /4 .5 0 g chopped fresh chervil
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the peppercorns, tarragon stems, and

vinegar in a small nonreactive pan. Reduce over
medium heat until nearly dry.
2 . Add the wine and water to the reduction and strain

it into a medium stainless-steel bowl.
3 . Whisk the egg yolks together with the reduction and

place them over simmering water. Cook, whisking
constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form
ribbons when they fall from the whisk.
4 . Gradually add the butter in a thin stream, whisking

constantly, until all the butter is added and the sauce
is thickened.
5 . Add the chopped tarragon and chervil and season

with salt. The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be
Choron Sauce
held warm for up to 2 hours.
chapter 13 SA UCES
297
Hollandaise Sauce
Beurre Blanc
Makes 28 fl 0Z/840 mL
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
tb sp /1 8 g chopped shallot
V A o z/3 5 g minced shallot
tsp / 2 g cracked black peppercorns
to
3 f I o z/9 0 mL cider or white wine vinegar
f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
3 f I o z/9 0 mL water
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL egg yolks (about 6 ),

fresh or pasteurized
3 fl o z/9 0 mL cider or white wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
black peppercorns
fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, reduced by half (optional)
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed butter, chilled
18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL melted whole or clarified butter, warm

1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /9 g grated lemon zest (optional)
Hot sauce or cayenne, as needed (optional)
1 . Combine the shallots, peppercorns, wine, lemon

1 . Combine the shallots, peppercorns, and vinegar in
a small nonreactive saucepan and reduce over me
dium heat until nearly dry.
2 . Add the water to the reduction and strain it into a

stainless-steel bowl.
3 . Whisk the egg yolks together with the reduction and
juice, and vinegar in a nonreactive saucepan. Reduce

over medium-high heat until nearly dry.
2.. Add the reduced heavy cream, if using, and simmer

over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes to reduce slightly.
3 . Add the butter a few pieces at a time, whisking con

stantly to blend the butter into the reduction. The
place them over simmering water. Cook, whisking
heat should be quite low as you work. Continue add
constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form
ing the butter until the full amount has been
ribbons when they fall from the whisk.
incorporated.
4 . Gradually add the butter in a thin stream, whisking
4 . Taste and season with salt and pepper. Finish the
constantly, until all the butter is added and the sauce
sauce by adding the lemon zest, if using. The sauce
is thickened.
may be strained, if desired.
5 . Taste the sauce and add the lemon juice, salt, pep
per, and hot sauce or cayenne, if desired. The sauce
is ready to serve now. It may be held warm for up to
2 hours.
M ousseline Sauce: Whip 5 f l oz/150 mL heavy cream to
medium peaks and fo ld it into the batch o f hollandaise,
or fo ld whipped cream into individual portions at the
tim e o f service.
M a lta ise Sauce: Add 2 fl oz/6 0 mL blood orange juice to the
reduction, or finish the hollandaise w ith 2 ts p / 6 gg rated
orjulienned blood orange zest and V / 2 f\ oz/45 mL blood
orangejuice.
STOCKS. SA UCES . A N D SO UPS
5 . The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be held warm

for up to 2 hours.
Pesto
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
Makes about 1 qt/960 mL
2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted pine nuts
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, deribbed,

and chopped red peppers
garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
tb s p /lO g s a lt
Salt, as needed
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil

8
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine

8
o z/2 2 7 g basil leaves
sauce recipes
Red Pepper Coulis
o z/2 2 7 g grated Parmesan
Salt, as needed
fl o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 to 3 fl o z/6 0 to 90 mL heavy cream (optional)
1 . Rinse the basil leaves well, dry thoroughly, and

coarsely chop. Transfer them to a food processor or
1 . Heat the oil over medium heat in a small sauce pot
use a mortar and pestle. Grind the basil, pine nuts,
and sweat the shallots until they are tender, about 2
garlic, and salt together, adding the oil gradually to
minutes. Add the peppers and sweat until they are
form a thick paste.
very tender, about 12 minutes. Season with salt and

pepper.
2 . Deglaze the pan with the wine and let the wine re
2 . Stir in the cheese and add salt as needed. The sauce

is ready to use now, or it may be refrigerated for
later use.
duce until nearly cooked away.
3 . Add the stock and simmer until reduced by half.

4 . Puree the sauce using a food mill for a coarse con
NOTE: Blanching the basil in boiling salted water will help

prevent the pesto from oxidizing during storage and
make the color more pronounced.
sistency or, in a food processor or blender for a

smoother consistency. Add the heavy cream, if using,
to the pureed sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper.

299
MaTtre d'Hotel B utter

Makes 1 lb/454 g
Tarragon B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount

o f minced tarragon.
P im iento B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, room temperature

2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley
V / 2 tb sp /22.50 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
o f minced pimiento.
Green Onion B u tte r: Add 1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce, V2 ts p /
1.5 g minced garlic, and replace the parsley with an equal
amount o f minced green onions.
D ill B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount of
minced dill.
Sun-D ried Tom ato and Oregano B u tte r: Add 1 tbsp /3
1 . Work the butter by hand or with an electric mixer

fitted with the paddle attachment until it is soft. Add
the remaining ingredients and blend well. Taste and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
g minced oregano and 1 o z /2 8 g minced sun-dried

tomatoes.
Basil B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount of
minced basil.
2 . The compound butter is ready to use, or it may be

rolled into a log or piped into shapes and chilled for
later use.
Rolling MaTtre d'Hotel B u tte r
300
Tarragon B utter
A well-prepared soup always makes a memorable impression. Soups offer

a full array of flavoring ingredients and garnishing opportunities. Soups
also allow the chef to use trimmings and leftovers creatively, an important
profit-making consideration for any foodservice establishment.
to cks
A N D B R O T H S A R E S I M I L A R IN T E C H N I Q U E A N D C O O K I N G T I M E . M E A T , P O U L T R Y , F I S H , T R I M M I N G S ,
OR V E G E T A B L E S , W H I C H M A Y BE R O A S T E D OR S E A R E D , A R E S L O W L Y S I M M E R E D A L O N G WI TH A R O M A T I C
V E G E T A B L E S , S P IC E S , A N D H E R B S TO P R O D U C E A C L E A R A N D F L A V O R F U L L IQ UI D WI T H S O M E B O D Y . T h E
M A J O R D I S T I N C T I O N B E T W E E N B R O T H S A N D S T O C K S IS T H A T B R O T H S C A N B E S E R V E D A S IS, W H E R E A S
S T O C K S A R E U S E D IN T H E P R O D U C T I O N O F O T H E R D I S H E S .
broth
M e a t and p o u ltry b ro th s have a m ore pronounced fla v o r than th e ir s to ck c o u n te rp a rts be
cause th e y are based on m ea t ra th e r than bones. Fish and veg etab le b ro th s are made fro m
the same basic in g re d ie n ts as fis h and veg etab le stocks, so th e d iffe re n c e betw een them
is re a lly one o f inte nd ed end use and w o rd choice.
If a broth's cooking te m p e ra tu re is ca re fu lly reg ulated so th a t it is never m ore than an
even, ge n tle simm er, and if the surface is skim m ed as necessary, a b ro th can be as clear, fu ll
bodied, and rich as any consom m e, w ith o u t c la rific a tio n .
Choose m eat cuts fro m more exercised parts o f the animal because the more fu lly devel
oped the muscle, the m ore pronounced the flavor. The same is tru e o f p o u ltry broths, fo r which
stew ing hens or m ore m ature game birds are the best choice fo r deep flavor. Frequently, the
m eat or p o u ltry used to prepare a b ro th can w ork fo r o th e r preparations if they are cooked
only un til fu lly ten der b ut no longer. The m eat can be julienned or diced to use as a garnish.
It is be st to use lean w h ite -fle s h e d fish , such as sole, flou nd er, halibut, or cod. Richer,
o ilie r typ e s o f fish, such as b lu e fish or m ackerel, te n d to lose th e ir fla v o r when th e ir d e li
cate oils are sub je cte d to high te m p e ra tu re s fo r even s h o rt periods. S h e llfish and c ru s ta
ceans cooked in th e shell in a sm all am ount o f liquid produce exce lle nt bro th . It m ust then
be stra in e d ve ry c a re fu lly to rem ove all tra ce s o f g r it or sand.
For veg etab le bro th s, com bine w holesom e trim fro m several vegetables to make a
bro th , o r fo llo w a sp e c ific recipe. C onsider th e stre n g th o f th e vegetable's fla v o r and how
th a t m ig h t a ffe c t th e bro th 's balance. Cabbage and o th e r fa m ily m em bers such as cauli
flo w e r can becom e overw h elm ingly strong.
Many bro th s begin w ith th e sim p le s t o f all liquids: cool, fre s h w ater. Using a stock, re
m ouillage, or b ro th as th e base liquid w ill produce w h a t is so m e tim es re fe rre d to as a "dou
ble broth." S elect a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts to add flavo r, aroma, and co lo r to a bro th . A ro m a tic
herb and veg etab le com b in ation s such as m ire poix, sachet d'epices, o r bouquet garni are
tra d itio n a l. C o ntem p orary bro th s may call fo r such in g re d ie n ts as dried tom ato es, lem ongrass, w ild m ushroom s, or ging er to give th e b ro th a unique character.
G arnishing b ro th s adds visual and te x tu ra l in te re s t. Sim ple garnishes, such as a fin e
brunoise o f veg etab le s o r ch e rvil pluches, are tra d itio n a l. O th er choices include diced or
ju lie nn ed m eats, pieces o f fis h o r she llfish , croutons, dum plings, quenelles, and w ontons,
noodles, and rice.
S e le ct a p o t large enough to accom m odate the b ro th as it cooks. There should be s u f
fic ie n t room a t th e to p o f th e p o t to allow some expansion du rin g cooking, as w e ll as to
make it easy to skim away any im p u ritie s fro m th e surface. The p o t should be ta ll and nar
row ra th e r than s h o rt and wide. If available, se le ct a p o t w ith a s p ig o t to make it easier to
decant th e bro th . You w ill also need skim m ers and ladles, storag e or holding containers,
strain ers, ta s tin g spoons and cups, and a kitche n fo rk to rem ove any large pieces o f meat.
302
STOCKS, S A U C ES , AND SO U PS
broth
D basic formula
Meat or Poultry Broth
Using Water
Meat or Poultry Broth

Using Stock
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L]
10 lb/4.54 kg meat or
3 lb/1.36 kg meat or poultry
shellfish, including bones or shells
5 qt/4.80 L stock
5 q t/4.80 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix

(page 243; may include
mushroom trimmings)
Fish or Shellfish Broth

(1 gal/3.84 L)
10 to 12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg fish or
poultry, including bones

5 qt /4.80 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
1 Standard Sachet
dEpices (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet
d'Epices (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices and/or

method
at-a-glance
expert tips
1. Combine the meat and

liquid.
To intensify the flavor o f a broth,
the amount of meat or
vegetable may be increased. The meat may also be cooked in stock for a stron
2. Bring to a simmer.
ger, richer flavor. To further enhance the flavor and color of a broth, brown the
3. Add the m irepoix and/or
major flavoring ingredients (meat and/or vegetables) before adding the liquid.
bouquet garni.
4. Simmer and skim.
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
5. Strain.
process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later on so that they retain their
individual flavor and/or texture:
6. Coot and store, or finish

and garnish fo r service.
SA C H ET D 'E P IC ES OR B O U Q U E T G A R N I / O IG N O N BRULE / FRESH OR D RIED

HERBS / A R O M A T IC VEG ETA B LE S
Garnishing
abroth is yet another way to introduce and influence fla
vor. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are
added at the very end of the cooking process:
VEG ETAB LE S / MEAT, POULTRY, OR F IS H / FRESH HERBS / COOKED PASTA /
COOKED G R A IN S SUCH AS RICE OR B A R LE Y
chapter 14 S O U P S
303
1. combine major flavoring

in g re d ie n ts, a p p ro p ria te seasonings, and cool liquid to
cover th e in g re d ie n ts co m p le te ly. G en tly b rin g the liquid
to a sim m er, skim m in g as necessary. G entle sim m e ring ex
tra c ts m axim um fla v o r and e sta blishes a n a tural c la rific a
tio n process th a t encourages im p u ritie s (fa t and scum) to
c o lle c t on th e surface, w here th e y can be skim m ed away.
The process o f blanching m ea t o r p o u ltry b e fo re m aking a
b ro th w ill also help to rem ove im p u ritie s .
Avoid a hard b o il when coo kin g b ro th s, w hich could
cook th e fla v o r o u t o f th e in g re d ie n ts. V ig oro us b o ilin g
a ctio n also causes f a t and im p u ritie s to be m ixed back in,
th e re b y clo ud ing th e bro th .
2. add the remaining ingredients

and a ro m a tics a t a p p ro p ria te in te rva ls. Sachet d'epices
and b o uq ue t ga rni in g re d ie n ts release th e ir fla v o rs qu ickly
and are added n e a rth e end o f c oo kin g tim e . R ather than
in te n s ify in g th e fla vo r, con tinu ed cooking could a ctu a lly
cook away th e de lica te, v o la tile oils th a t hold th e ir fla v o r
essence. S im m er u n til flavo r, color, and body are fu lly de
veloped. Since th e cooking tim e s fo r b ro th s va ry w idely,
co n su lt s p e c ific recipes f o r guidance.
Taste th e b ro th fro m tim e to tim e as i t sim m ers to be
sure th a t it is de veloping p ro p e rly, and make c o rre ctio n s
if necessary. For exam ple, if a clove in th e sachet d'epices
th re a te n s to overw helm th e bro th , rem ove it. If th e re is a
lack o f rich, ro a ste d fla v o rs , add an oignon brute (see page
24 0). Final seasoning and fla v o r a d ju stm e nts, however, are
g e ne rally done a fte r th e m ajor fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts have
given up th e ir m axim um fla vo r. M e a t and p o u ltry should be
cooked u n til f o r k tender. Fish, sh e llfish , and crustaceans
should be sim m ered b rie fly u n til ju s t cooked through.
V egetables should be e x tre m e ly s o ft b u t n o t cooked in to
shreds.
304
STOCKS, SAUCE'S, A N D SO U P S
broth
3. ladle, don t pour, th e b ro th o u t o f the

pot. To keep th e soup clear, f ir s t li f t th e m eat or chicken
and veg etab le s fro m th e b ro th b e fo re stra in in g . Line a
sieve or colan der w ith rinsed doubled cheesecloth. A
fin e -m e sh sieve or a pa pe r f ilt e r can also be used. S kim as
much f a t fro m th e surface as po ssib le b e fo re g a rnishin g
and serving or b e fo re ra p id ly co o lin g and sto rin g .
B ring th e b ro th to service te m p e ra tu re and garnish as
desired. If th e b ro th has been chilled, l i f t away any con
gealed fa t and re tu rn th e b ro th to a simmer. Prepare and
heat th e garnish.
4. a good broth is clear, golden in color,

rich ta s tin g , and a ro m a tic, w ith good fla v o r and no tice a b le
body. The se le ctio n o f fre sh , h ig h -q u a lity in g re d ie n ts, th e
rig h t p ro p o rtio n o f fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts to liquid, c a re fu l
te m p e ra tu re re g u la tio n , th o ro u g h skim m ing, adequate
coo kin g tim e , and a d ju stm e n ts to th e b ro th 's seasoning
th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e re s u lt in th e high est q u a lity
b ro th possible. P rop er handling o f th e b ro th du rin g s to r
age and re h e a tin g assures th a t it m aintains its q u a lity.
B roth s ty p ic a lly have a fe w d ro p le ts o f fa t on th e surface,
a sign o f a rich, fu ll-fla v o re d soup.
c h a p te r 14 SO U P S
305
CONSOMME
IS A P E R F E C T L Y
CLEAR
BROTH. C O N S O M M E S
ARE
E X C E P T IO N A L L Y
RICH
IN
FLAVOR
A N D A R E C R Y S T A L C L E A R , A N E F F E C T A C H I E V E D B Y C O M B I N I N G A H I G H - Q U A L I T Y S T O C K OR B R O T H
W IT H A C L A R IF IC A T IO N M IX T U R E .
To
ASSURE A H IG H -Q U A L IT Y CO NSO M M E, THE CHEF M UST CHOOSE
I N G R E D I E N T S C A R E F U L L Y , K E E P T H E C L A R I F I C A T I O N M I X T U R E V E R Y C O L D U N T I L I T IS T I M E TO C O O K
T H E C O N S O M M E , A N D M O N IT O R T H E T E M P E R A T U R E O F T H E C O N S O M M E AS IT C O O K S AT A S L O W S I M M E R .
O n c e t h e c o n s o m m e h a s d e v e l o p e d a r ic h f l a v o r a n d c o l o r , it m u s t be c a r e f u l l y s t r a in e d
A N D D E G R E A S E D TO P R O D U C E A C R Y S T A L - C L E A R S O U P , W I T H N O T R A C E S O F FAT, A N D A N I N T E N S E A N D
S A T IS FY IN G FLAVOR.
consomme
S to ck fo r consom m e should be o f high q u a lity and very fre sh . To check fo r qu ality, bring a
sm all am ount to a boil, then sm ell and ta s te it. If th e re is any d o u b t a b o u t the q u a lity o f the
stock, use a fre s h e r batch o r prepare new stock.
The c la rific a tio n is a com b in ation o f lean ground m eat, egg w h ites, m irepoix, herbs and
spices, and to m a to or o th e r acidic ingre die nts. A ll o f the se in g re d ie n ts serve m u ltip le fu n c
tio n s in pre p a rin g a w ell-balanced consomme. This m ixtu re o f in g re d ie n ts produces a crysta l-c le a r fla v o rfu l soup by rem oving im p u ritie s fro m the sto c k and b o ls te rin g its flavor.
W henever possible, grind the m eat along w ith the m ire p o ix vegetables fo r the be st fla v o r
and q u a lity in th e fin is h e d consom m e. W heth er o r n o t you grind th e m eat in-house, be sure
to keep it and th e egg w h ite s re frig e ra te d so th a t the y rem ain w holesom e and fla v o rfu l.
M ire p o ix veg etab le s should be cu t sm all or ground so th a t th e y becom e p a rt o f th e ra ft
and release th e ir fla v o rs quickly. A v a rie ty o f a ro m atic vegetables such as onions, carro ts,
celery, ga rlic, leeks, parsnips, and m ushroom s are typ ica l. M ix the c la rific a tio n in gre die nts
(except th e acid) th o ro u g h ly and if tim e p e rm its, chill fo r several hours or overnight. The
acidic in gre die nt, such as to m a to e s, is added ju s t b e fo re the s to ck is blended in to th e c la ri
fic a tio n to help th e r a ft fo rm p ro pe rly, as w e ll as fo r its flavo r. Lemon ju ice o r vinegar is an
acidic o p tio n fo r a fis h o r veg etab le consom m e. An oignon brule may also be included to
give a d d itio n a l fla v o r and color. O th er fla v o rin g ite m s are used as necessary to achieve a
special flavo r.
Herbs and spices are also included in th e c la rific a tio n m ixtu re : sprigs o r stem s o f t a r
ragon, parsley, chervil, dill, thym e, or o th e r fre sh herbs; cloves, bay leaves, peppercorns,
ju n ip e r berries, o r s ta r anise; and ginger and lem ongrass.
The eq uipm en t needs f o r m aking consom m es are the same as tho se described ea rlie r
fo r broths, w ith the fo llo w in g special considerations: The p o t should have a heavy b o tto m
to help pre ven t the c la rific a tio n in gre die nts fro m s tic k in g and scorching, and it should be
ta lle r than it is wide. The even heat o f steam k e ttle s and fla tto p ranges, if available, are
ideal f o r m aking consom me.
306
consom m e
basic formula
Consomme
10 oz/284 g chopped tomatoes
Note: For fish consomme,

lemon juice, vinegar, a n d /o r
(1 g a l / 3 . 8 4 L)
2
tbsp/ 2 0 g salt
wine may be substituted fo r
CLARIFICATION INGREDIENTS
the tom atoes to prevent dark

coloration. The amounts will
vary depending on the acid level
o f the individual ingredient.
1 lb/454 g Standard Mirepoix

(page 243), minced or ground
qt/5.76 L cool liquid

(stock or broth)
3 lb/1.36 kg lean ground

meat, poultry, or fish
Seasonings and flavorings, such as

salt and pepper, Standard Sachet
d'Epices (page 241), oignon brule
12
egg whites
(see page 240), or others as desired
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
1. Combine m ire po ix, meat,

and egg w hites. Add acid
and s a lt to th e c la rific a tio n .
To enhance the flavor and color o f a consomme,
2. Sim m er the sto ck and
double the amount of ground meat in the recipe. This is known as a double
c la rific a tio n , s tirrin g
consomme.
fre q u e n tly .
3. S top s tirrin g a t 120 to

1 2 5 F /4 9 to 52C and
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time:
allow the r a ft to fo rm .
SA CH ET D 'EP IC E S OR B O U Q U ET G A R N I / O IG N O N BRClLE / FRESH OR DRIED
4. Simmer, b astin g th e r a ft
H ERBS / A R O M A T IC VEGETAB LES
fre q u e n tly . Add o ptio na l

a d d itio n a l ing re d ie nts, if
Use d iffe re n t acids
desired.
color:
5. S train.
in a consomme to produce a desired flavor or
TO M ATO / LEM O N JUICE / D R Y W IN E / V IN E G A R
6. Degrease.
Garnishing consomme
7. Cool and sto re , or fin is h
will introduce and influence flavor. Gar
nishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are added at
the very end of the cooking process:

VEG ETAB LES / C USTARD / M E A T / P O U LTRY
307
1. clarification ingredients
should
be ve ry cold (below 40 F /4 C ) a t th e s ta r t o f cooking

tim e . Som e che fs p re fe r to g rin d th e c la rific a tio n m ix tu re
th e day b e fo re m aking th e consom m e to allow it p le n ty
o f tim e to chill. Add the acid (such as to m a to e s or lem on
ju ice ) ju s t b e fo re c o o k in g th e consom m e. Add enough cold
sto c k to loosen th e c la rific a tio n . For large q u a n titie s, th e
re s t o f th e s to c k can be b ro u g h t to a sim m er s e p a ra te ly
to sh o rte n th e overall coo kin g tim e o f th e consom me.
method in detail
2. bring to a simmer,
s tirrin g fre q u e n tly ,
u n til th e r a ft begins to fo rm . Continue to s tir th e consom

me so th a t th e c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts do n o t s tic k to the
p o t o r scorch. As it heats up, the c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts
begin to tu rn gray and coalesce in to a large s o ft mass,
w hich is known as a ra ft. This occurs a t a te m p e ra tu re
range o f a p p ro x im a te ly 14 0 to 1 4 5 F /6 0 to 63C. S top
s tirrin g th e consom m e a t th is te m p e ra tu re and adjust
th e heat u n til only a fe w sm all bubbles break the surface.
If th e re is a s tro n g sim m e rin g o r b o ilin g a ction, th e r a ft
m ig h t break a p a rt b e fo re it has s u ffic ie n tly cleared and
fla v o re d th e consom m e. On the o th e r hand, if th e heat is
to o low, im p u ritie s may n o t rise fro m th e b o tto m o f the
p o t to th e to p , w here th e y can be tra p p e d by th e ra ft. Add
an oignon brule if desired.
308
consom m e
3. simmer without stirring
once the
c la rifica tio n ingredients cook to g e th e r in to a ra ft. Basting

assures th a t the fu lle s t fla v o r w ill develop and prevents the
ra ft fro m drying out and p o te n tia lly breaking. As the con
somme continues to simmer, the m eat and eggs w ill naturally
coagulate, fo rm in g the ra ft. The sim m ering action o f the
soup carries im p u ritie s fro m the b o tto m o f the p o t to the
raft, where they are trapped. This action cla rifie s the soup.
The sim m e rin g a ctio n may also cause a sm all hole to
fo rm in th e ra ft. If a sm all opening does n o t fo rm on its
own, use a spoon o r ladle to g e n tly poke th ro u g h th e ra ft
so th a t you can ta s te th e consom m e as it develops and
make any necessary seasoning a d ju stm e n ts. The hole
should be ju s t large enough to accom m odate a sm all ladle.
Sim m er g e n tly u n til the flavo r, color, and body are fu lly
developed. Recipes usually provide a cooking guideline
(generally 1 to V / 2 hours) long enough to f o r t if y the soup's
fla v o r and c la rify it properly. Baste the ra ft fre q u e n tly as
the consomme sim mers. When the r a ft begins to sink s lig h t
ly, assuming th a t th is happens a fte r a reasonable cooking
tim e ra th e r than because the heat wasn't adjusted properly,
the consomme is p ro p e rly sim m ered. Pour a sm all am ount
in to a soup bowl or plate to assess its c la rity visually.
S tra in th e consom m e using a fin e -m e sh sieve, a con i
cal sieve lined w ith a c o ffe e filte r , o r c a re fu lly rinsed
cheesecloth. Avoid b re aking up th e r a ft as you s tra in the
consom m e and d o n 't pour th e consom m e and r a ft in to a
strain er, because th is w ill release im p u ritie s . A d ju s t sea
soning as necessary.
4. carefully degrease th e consom m e. B lo t

th e consom m e w ith a b so rb e n t paper o r re frig e ra te it. Any
fa t w ill congeal and be easy to l i f t away b e fo re re h e a t
ing. It should be c o m p le te ly fa t fre e . The consom m e is
now ready f o r g a rnishin g and service o r to be cooled and
stored .
A consom m e o f e x c e lle n t q u a lity has a w ell-balanced,
rich fla v o r re fle c tin g th e m ajor in g re d ie n t, and a d isce rn
ib le body. It is p e rfe c tly clear, c o m p le te ly f a t fre e , and
aro m atic. The s e le c tio n o f fre sh , h ig h -q u a lity in gre die nts,
very cold c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts, th e p ro p e r ra tio o f
fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts and a ro m a tics to liquid, adequate
cooking tim e , c a re fu l te m p e ra tu re re g u la tio n , c a re fu l
skim m ing, and seasoning a d ju stm e n ts th ro u g h o u t co o k
ing tim e re s u lt in th e high est q u a lity consom m e. C areful
handling o f th e consom m e du rin g sto ra g e and re h e a tin g
assures th a t it m aintains its q u a lity.
c h a p te r 14 SO UPS
309
GARNISHING CONSOMME
Hundreds of classically codified garnishes
it is important that it be as well prepared
for consommes exist, ranging from such
as the consomme.
humble items as neatly diced root veg-
Vegetable cuts should be neat and pre-
etables to the esoteric edible gold leaf
cise. Royales should be delicately set, soft,
featured in a recipe found in Escoffiers Le
and supple in the mouth. The seasoning
Guide Culinaire. They draw on influences
selected for the garnish should enhance
as diverse as Asian cuisines, Caribbean
the flavor of the consomme, not distract
dishes, and Italian provincial cooking
from it.
styles. No matter what the garnish may be,
NAME
CLASSIC COMPOSITION
CONSOMME A LA
Consom m e garnished w ith sm all cubes o f c a rro t,

tu rn ip , celery, leek, and ch e rvil
BRUNOISE
CONSOMME CELESTINE
Consom m e lig h tly th icke n e d w ith ta p io c a and

garnished w ith ju lie n n e d crepes m ixed w ith chopped
t r u ffle s o r herbs
CONSOMME JULIENNE
Consom m e ga rnished w ith ju lie n n e d c a rro ts , leeks,

tu rn ip s , celery, and cabbage, plus green peas and a
c h iffo n a d e o f s o rre l and c h e rvil
CONSOMME
C onsom m e ga rnished w ith balls o f c a rro t and
PRINTANIER
tu rn ip s , peas, and ch e rvil
CONSOMME ROYALE
Chicken consom m e garnished w ith cubes, rounds, or

lozenges o f Royale (custard )
CONSOMME AU
CHASSEUR
Game consom m e garnished w ith ju lie n n e d

m ushroom s and gam e qu en elles o r p ro fite ro le s
s tu ffe d w ith gam e puree
310
CONSOMME
DIPLOMATE
C hicken consom m e lig h tly th icke n e d w ith ta p io ca

and garnished w ith ju lie n n e d tr u ffle s and ron de lle s
o f chicken fo rc e m e a t blended w ith c ra y fis h b u tte r
CONSOMME GRIM ALDI
Consom m e c la rifie d w ith fre s h to m a to puree;

garnished w ith diced Royale (cu sta rd ) and ju lie n n e d
ce le ry
CONSOMME MIKADO
Chicken consom m e w ith to m a to , garnished w ith

diced to m a to and chicken
t r
rD
CD
H
earty broths are based on c lea r broths or stock a n d h ave m o re fla v o r
,t
e x t u r e
,an
d body
|-^
T H A N C L E A R B R O T H S . V E G E T A B L E S A R E C U T I N T O U N I F O R M S I Z E A N D S I M M E R E D IN T H E S O U P U N T I L
t e n d e r
. M
eats
THE CLARITY
of
g r a in s
and
pasta
are
fr e q u e n t ly
included
to
add
b o d y
. Th
ese
so u ps
lack
BROTH OR C O N S O M M E B E C A U S E OF TH E A D D IT IO N A L I NGR ED IEN TS C O O K E D DIRE CTL Y
IN T H E B R O T H . H E A R T Y B R O T H S M A Y A L S O B E M A D E F R O M A S I N G L E V E G E T A B L E ( e .G., O N I O N S O U p ).
o
t r
hearty broths
in
H e a rty b ro th s include vegetables chosen bo th f o r th e ir own fla v o rs and f o r th e ir a ro m atic

q u a litie s. Prepare each veg etab le by trim m in g , peeling, and c u ttin g it in to neat and evensize pieces so th a t th e y cook u n ifo rm ly and have an a ttra c tiv e appearance.
Some h e a rty bro th s also include m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish . Trim and cu t m eat, p o u ltry, or
fis h to s u it th e s ty le o f soup you are preparing. A fte r cooking in th e soup, the se in gre die nts
are o fte n diced o r julie nn ed and re tu rn e d to the soup ju s t b e fo re it is finishe d.
O th er in g re d ie n ts m ig h t include beans, w hole grains, o r pasta. For a re la tiv e ly clear
soup, cook the se sta rch y in g re d ie n ts se p a ra te ly and add the m to th e soup as a garnish. A
m ore ru s tic approach calls f o r these in g re d ie n ts to be cooked in th e b ro th as p a rt o f the
soup-m aking process. Such soups ten d to have m ore body and are som e tim es re fe rre d to
as h e a rty v eg etab le soups.
Clear bro th s, g o o d -q u a lity stocks, w ater, veg etab le essences, o r ju ices are all used as
th e liquid base f o r v eg etab le soups. Be sure to ta s te th e liquid and add seasonings as nec
essary fro m th e s ta r t o f cooking tim e up to and includ in g ju s t b e fo re service. R efer to spe
c ific recipes fo r in g re d ie n t suggestions. B ring the liquid to a sim m er over low heat while
p re pa ring th e o th e r ingre die nts, along w ith seasonings and a ro m a tics as needed. This w ill
im prove th e fla v o r o f the fin ish e d b ro th and help reduce overall coo kin g tim e , since the
soup w ill come to the c o rre c t cooking speed m ore quickly.
G arnishes are as varied as the soups them selves. C routons are common, and th e y may
be an in te g ra l p a rt o f th e pre pa ration , as in Onion Soup G ratinee (page 335). Add o th e r
garnishes, such as pesto, g ra te d cheese, or even beaten eggs, to veg etab le soups ju s t be
fo re service. Purees o f red peppers, chiles, to m a to , o r so rre l m ay also be added a t th e last
m om ent f o r a dash o f color and flavo r. F o rtifie d w ines (such as sherry), vinegar, or citru s
ju ices may be used fo r la st-m in u te fla v o r a d ju stm e nts.
M o s t veg etab le soups cook fro m s ta rt to fin is h in a single pot. The p o t should be ta lle r
than it is w ide to allow th e soup to cook g e n tly and evenly at a co n sta n t sim m er. S kim m ers,
ladles, and spoons are all used th ro u g h o u t the p re p a ra tio n tim e . T asting spoons and cups
should be on hand so th a t you can m o n ito r th e soup's fla v o r developm ent. S torage o r hold
ing c on tain ers w ill also be needed.
ch a p te r 14 SO U P S
311
Q basic formula
Hearty Broth
Onion Soup
Clear Vegetable Soup
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
4 lb/1.81 kg of one or more

main flavoring ingredients, such
as vegetables, meat, poultry,
5 lb/ 2.27 kg onions
4 lb/1.81 kg vegetables
1 gal/3.84 L stock
1 gal/3.84 L vegetable stock or

broth if for nonvegetarian soup
fish, legumes, or pasta

1 gal/3.84 L stock or broth
salt and pepper, 1 Standard Sachet
d'Epices or Standard Bouquet
Garni (page 241), oignon brule (see
page 240), or others as desired
method
at-a-glance
1. Sweat the aromatics and
vegetables. Add additional
main ingredients if using.
2. Add the liquid.
3. Bring to a boil and skim.
4. Add the bouquet garni or
sachet depices.
5. Simmer and skim.
6. Add the remaining

ingredients at proper
intervals.
7. Discard the bouquet garni
or sachet depices when the

proper flavor is reached.
To intensify the flavor o f a broth, theamount of meat or

vegetable may be increased. To further enhance the flavor and color of a broth,
brown the major flavoring ingredients (meat and/or vegetables) before adding
the liquid.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
process to infuse flavor. Add others later on so that they retain their individual
flavor and/or texture.
SA CH ET D 'EPICES OR B O U Q U E T G A R N I / O IG N O N BRClLE / FRESH OR D RIED
H ERBS / A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES
To add body
to a hearty broth, any one of the following may be used,
depending on the desired results:

M EATS / G R A IN S / PASTA / S TA R C H Y VEG ETA B LE S / LEG UM ES
8. Cool and store, or finish

G a m i s h m g a hearty broth is yet another way to introduce and influ

ence flavor. Add garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired
shape at the very end of the cooking process or just before service:
MEAT, POULTRY, OR FIS H / G R A IN S OR PASTA / VE G ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS,
OR HERB PASTES SUCH AS PESTO / C RO UTO N S / CHEESE / P LA IN OR FLAVORED
OILS / F O R T IFIE D W IN E S , OR OTHERS AS D E SIR ED
1. Cllt VGgetableS in u n ifo rm shapes and

sizes. Cook th e a ro m a tic ve g e ta b le s in f a t to th e desired
stage, adding th e m a t in te rv a ls to develop th e b e st flavo r,
te x tu re , and color. Onions, ga rlic, leeks, celery, ca rro ts,
and parsnips are basic a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts o f many
veg etab le soups. S w e atin g th e m in a sm all am ount o f
f a t begins th e process o f re lea sing th e ir fla v o rs in to the
soup. C ooking v e g e ta b le s such as onions to a deep golden
brow n w ill develop a ric h e r fla v o r in th e fin is h e d bro th .
Some te n d e r veg etab le s, such as b ro c c o li flo re ts ,
asparagus tip s , and o th e r d e lic a te ty p e s are n o t allow ed
to sweat. They are added a t sta g g e re d in te rva ls, acco rd
ing to in d ivid u a l co o kin g tim e s. C onsult recipes fo r spe
c ific in s tru c tio n s on co o kin g th e vegetables.
2. add the liquid and b rin g to a sim m er, s t ir

ring, skim m ing, and a d ju s tin g seasoning th ro u g h o u t the
coo kin g tim e . Add m ain fla v o rin g ingredients a t a p p ro p ri
ate intervals. Depending upon the fla v o r o f the broth, ap
p ro p ria te seasoning may also be added a t th is point. Bear in
mind th a t the soup w ill sim m er fo r about 30 m inutes longer.
A slow sim m e r is th e b e st coo kin g speed f o r m o st
soups. The veg etab le s and m eats w ill release th e be st
flavo r, and th e appearance o f veg etab le s w ill be m ore
a ttra c tiv e when cooked a t a sim m er. A hard b o il te n d s to
cook fo o d to shreds.
C ontinue to add in g re d ie n ts a t th e a p p ro p ria te p o in t
so th a t th e y cook p ro p e rly and develop a good flavo r. A d
d itio n a l a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts, such as a sachet depices or
bo uq ue t garni, are also added to w a rd th e end so th a t the y
w ill cook ju s t long enough to release fla v o r in to th e soup.
Skim th e surface as needed th ro u g h o u t p re p a ra tio n . The
scum th a t develops on th e soup needs to be rem oved fo r
the b e st fin is h e d q u a lity and appearance. Taste th e soup
fre q u e n tly as it cooks and make a d ju stm e n ts as neces
sary. Once th e soup has reached its peak fla vo r, it is ready
fo r fin a l seasoning, garnishing, and service, or it may be
cooled and sto re d .
ch a p te r 14 SO UPS
313
3. the finished soup should have a rich

color, fla vo r, and arom a. "C lear" veg e ta b le soups are not
as cle ar as b ro th o r consom m e. U nlike stra in e d soups, the
v eg etab le s are p a rt o f th e soup its e lf and give it te x tu re
and body. W hen p ro p e rly cooked, veg etab le s should have
appealing colors. M eats, p o u ltry , fish , and sta rch y in g re d i
ents, such as p o ta to e s and beans, should hold th e ir shape
b u t have a ve ry s o ft te x tu re .
NOTE: Beans should be cooked s e p a ra te ly and added
to the soup la te r a t a s p e c ifie d tim e. I f the beans are a d d
ed a t the sam e tim e as o th e r veg etab le s, the beans w ill
s t ill rem a in h a rd and u n de rcooke d by the tim e the o th e r
ve g e ta b le s are tender.
ADDITIONS FORTHE BROTH

MEATS, POULTRY, A N D FISH
GREEN VEG ETABLES
Cuts of meat that are more mature and less
Add peas, green beans, and leafy vegetables
tender should be added to the soup early in
such as spinach or kale during the final 15 to 20
the cooking process so that they will flavor
minutes of simmering time for the soup. Some
the broth properly and finish cooking at the
chefs prefer to blanch these vegetables to help
same time as the other ingredients. Add fish
set the colors before adding them to a soup.
or shellfish to hearty broths close to the end

of cooking time to prevent overcooking.
In some cases, tomatoes may be added at the
G R A I N S A N D PASTA
beginning of the cooking time, along with the
Allow grains and pasta a little more time than
aromatic ingredients, to act as a broth flavor
would be necessary to cook in boiling salted

water.
ing. A tomato garnish may be added during

the final 5 to 10 minutes of simmering time.
LEGUMES
HERBS AND SPICES
Add lentils and black-eyed peas to the soup
Add dried herbs and most spices to the soup
along with the stock to cook fully. Other
along with the aromatics to flavor the broth
beans may need to be cooked separately.
throughout the cooking time. Fresh and dried
D E N S E OR S T A R C H Y V E G E T A B L E S
Roots and tubers cut to small dice typically

require 30 to 45 minutes to cook fully.
314
TOMATOES
herbs and spices may also be added in the

form of a sachet or bouquet during the final
15 to 20 minutes of simmering time, or before
service for the freshest flavor.
ccording
to
c la s s ic a l
definitions
cr ea m
so u p
is
based
on
b e c h a m e l
sa u c e
(m
ilk
cream
T H I C K E N E D W I T H R O U x ) A N D IS F I N I S H E D W I T H H E A V Y C R E A M .
V E L O U T E S O U P IS B A S E D O N A L I G H T
V E L O U T E S A U C E ( S T O C K T H I C K E N E D W I T H R O U x ) A N D IS F I N I S H E D W I T H A L I A I S O N O F H E A V Y C R E A M
F R E Q U E N T L Y S U B S T I T U T E A V E L O U T E B A S E F O R T H E B E C H A M E L IN C R E A M S O U P S O R E V E N U S E T H E
T E R M C R E A M TO R E F E R TO A P U R E E S O U P T H A T H A S S I M P L Y B E E N F I N I S H E D W I T H C R E A M .
soup
A N D E G G Y O L K S . C O N T E M P O R A R Y C H E F S NO L O N G E R D R A W A D I S T I N C T I O N B E T W E E N T H E TWO; T H E Y
cream soup
The main fla v o rin g fo r som e cream soups is o fte n a single in gre die nt, such as broccoli,
asparagus, chicken, o r fish . When sim m e ring p o u ltry o r fis h in th e soup to give fla v o r and
body, be sure to trim , truss, or cu t tho se in g re d ie n ts as a p p ro p ria te . Vegetables, w h e th e r
used as main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts or as arom atics, should be w e ll rinsed, then peeled,
trim m e d , and cu t in to small, un ifo rm pieces so th e y cook evenly.
Use a w ell-seasoned, fu ll-b o d ie d bro th , s to ck, o r lig h t veloute. M ilk o r a lig h t bechamel
is som e tim es a p p ro p ria te . Bring the liquid up to a sim mer, along w ith seasonings, a ro m a t
ics, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts m eant to pro vid e flavo r. R e fe r to s p e c ific recipes f o r guidance.
T hickeners including prepared roux, flo u r o r p o ta to e s, o r th e natural th icke n in g o f the
pureed main in g re d ie n t give cream soups th e ir te x tu re . However, added th icke n e rs are un
necessary i f the base liquid is a prepared veloute.
A ssem ble fin is h in g ingre die nts, fin a l fla v o rin g and seasonings, and garnishes ahead o f
tim e to be ready to add a t the p ro p e r tim e. B ring cream to a sim m e r b e fo re adding it to
sim m e ring soup. Blend liaisons and te m p e r the m ju s t b e fo re serving th e soup.
Pots w ith heavy f la t b o tto m s, made o f no nre active m a te ria ls such as stain le ss s te e l or
anodized alum inum , are a good choice fo r cream soups. S im m er cream soups on fla tto p s or
a heat d iffu s e r to pre ven t h o t spo ts fro m de veloping and scorch in g th e soup. Have w o od
en spoons, ladles, and skim m ers available th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process. Use blenders
(c o u n te rto p or im m ersion) and fo o d m ills singly o r in com b in ation to puree th e soup. For a
v e lv e ty te x tu re in the fin ish e d soup, you may also need fin e -m e sh stra in e rs o r cheesecloth
to stra in the soup a fin a l tim e.
315
basic formula
Cream Soup
(1 gal/3.84 L)
1 lb/454 g White
Mirepoix (page 243)
1 gal/3.84 L Chicken
Veloute or other veloute
Finishing and garnishing ingredients

as appropriate (Liaison [page
(page 2 9 4 ), thin nappe
249], diced or julienned main

flavoring ingredient, or mince
Seasonings and flavorings

(salt and pepper, or Standard
or chiffonade of herbs)
4 lb/1.81 kg of one or more main

flavoring ingredients, such as
Sachet d'Epices, page 241)
vegetables, meat, poultry, or fish
16 fl oz/480 mL heavy cream
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
expert tips Q
1. Cook the m irepoix or other

aromatics.
2. Add the main flavoring and
cook gently over low heat.
To thicken,
any one of the following may be used, depending on the de
sired results:
3. Add the veloute. Bring to
a boil.
BLOND R O U X / W H IT E R O U X / FLO U R / POTATOES
4 . Establish a simmer.
Additional ingred ients may be added to develop more flavor.
5. Add the bouquet garni or
Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
sachet d'epices.
6. Simmer and skim.

process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they retain their
individual flavor and/or texture.
SA C H ET D 'E PIC E S / B O U Q U ET G A R NI
Garnishing
a cream soup is yet another way to introduce and influence
flavors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape
8. Puree the soup and strain if

necessary.
9. Adjust consistency if
necessary.
10.
Simmer, adjust seasoning,

and add cream.
11 . Cool and store, or finish
are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service. Any of
the following may be used:
LIA IS O N / H E A V Y CREAM / D ICED OR JULIEN NED M A IN FLAVORING IN G R ED IE N T /
M IN C E OR C H IFFO N A D E OF HERBS
Use pureed vegetables (especially those
high in starch) to thicken the soup in place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace
cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.
cream
1. cook the aromatic vegetables

to develop a good fla v o r base. W h ite m ire p o ix is a com
mon a ro m a tic co m b in a tio n f o r cream soups. Here it is
soup
used f o r th e a ro m a tic base to pre serve th e soups lig h t

green color.
2. add the main flavoring

in gre die nt(s) in th e f ir s t stages o f cooking. Here, th e b ro c
coli and a ro m a tics are sw eated u n til tra n s lu c e n t b e fo re
adding the velou te . Cook g e n tly over low heat in o il or
c la rifie d b u tte r u n til th e veg etab le s are te n d e r and tra n s
lu cen t and begin to release th e ir ju ices. When using a p re
made ve lo u te or becham el, use only enough f a t to sm o th e r
th e a ro m a tics and keep th e m fro m burning. A lte rn a tiv e ly ,
include a p o ta to to th icke n th e soup.
S lo w ly s tir in th e ve lo u te o r becham el. B rin g th e soup
ju s t up to a sim m er, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . Check th e soups
seasoning and make any necessary a d ju stm e n ts. Add
ce rta in in g re d ie n ts to th e soup a t in te rva ls, depending
upon how dense th e y are and th e e ffe c t th a t exte nde d
coo kin g m ig h t have on them . Tender new peas w ill becom e
gray and p a sty i f allow ed to cook f o r to o long. A sachet
d'epices le ft in th e soup to o long may lose its fre s h flavo r.
C onsult in d ivid u a l recipe s f o r s p e c ific in s tru c tio n s on
when to add in g re d ie n ts.
S im m er u n til th e m ain in g re d ie n t is fu lly cooked and
te n d e r and th e soup has a good fla vo r, s tirrin g , skim m ing,
and a d ju s tin g th e seasoning th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e .
Cream soups usually need 3 0 to 45 m in utes o f s im m e r
ing tim e to develop fla v o r and th icke n p ro p e rly. S tir f r e
q u e n tly to p re ve n t scorching. S kim m ing th e soup rem oves
excess f a t and im p u ritie s to cre a te good fla vo r, color, and
te x tu re in th e fin is h e d soup. Pull th e p o t s lig h tly to the
side o f th e burner; th e fa t and im p u ritie s w ill c o lle c t on
one side o f th e pot, w here it is easy to skim the m away.
Taste the soup o fte n as it develops and add a d d itio n a l
seasonings and a ro m a tics as needed.
317
3. puree the soup (if necessary) and stra in

it. The soup m u st be s tra in e d and any so lid s rem aining
in th e s tra in e r should be discarded. A fte r th a t, the soup
base should be added back to th e p o t and sim m ered a t
1 8 5 F /8 5 C u n til th e desired co n siste n cy is achieved.
V egetable soups m ust be strain ed ; cream soups based
upon m eat, fish , o r p o u ltry are n o t n e cessa rily pureed.
Use a fo o d m ill, blender, im m e rsion blender, or fo o d p ro
cessor to puree ve g e ta b le cream soups.
Pureed cream soups need to be stra in e d using e ith e r
a fin e -m e sh sieve o r rin sed doubled cheesecloth. If using
a fin e -m e sh sieve, push th e solids against th e sides to
e x tra c t th e puree. S tra in in g produces th e v e lv e t-s m o o th
te x tu re o f a good cream soup by rem o ving all fib e rs .
The soup should have th e de sire d fla v o r and consis
te n cy a t th is p o in t. M ake any necessary a d ju stm e n ts to
co n siste n cy now. The soup is ready to fin is h now, o r it may
be ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d fo r la te r service (or to
serve as a chille d soup).
4. simmer the soup, checking fo r flavo r,

con sisten cy, and seasoning b e fo re adding the cream. For
a h o t cream soup, re tu rn th e soup to a sim m er over m e
dium heat and add enough h o t cream to enrich the soup,
w ith o u t o ve rw h elm ing th e main in g re d ie n t's fla vo r. Return
th e soup to a sim m e r and a d ju s t seasoning, if necessary.
318
cream
5. garnishes must be very hot

when added to h o t soup. Reheat the m in fla v o rfu i liq u id
to fu r th e r enhance th e soup's fla v o r. Cream soups can be
soup
fin is h e d and garnished by in d ivid u a l p o rtio n o r by batches,

acco rding to th e kitche n's needs. Cook th e garnish fu lly
and season it w ell. This m ust be done as a sep a ra te op e ra
tio n since garnish in g re d ie n ts d o n 't a c tu a lly sim m e r in the
soup as it cooks. Add th e heated and seasoned garnish to
th e soup, if desired, and serve a t once in heated bow ls or
cups.
To fin is h a cold cream soup, add chille d cream to the
soup. A d ju s t seasoning i f necessary (cold fo o d s o fte n
need m ore seasoning tha n th e same dish served hot), and
add th e chille d and seasoned garnish. If desired, serve a t
once in chille d bow ls o r cups.
6. good cream soups
have a rich flavo r,
balancing th e main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t(s) and s u p p o rt

ing a ro m a tic and fin is h in g fla v o rs , v e lv e ty te x tu re , and
a lig h tly th icke n e d con sisten cy, s im ila r to heavy cream.
Very th ic k cream soups o fte n have a p a sty fe e l and ta s te
due to e ith e r to o much th ic k e n e r o r to overcooking. D is
a p p o in tin g fla v o r and c o lo r in d ic a te th a t n o t enough o f
th e m ain fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t(s) was used, in g re d ie n ts
w ere overcooked, o r to o much liq u id was added. Too much
cream can d e tra c t fro m th e m a jo r fla v o r o f th e soup,
m asking th e p rim a ry ta s te .
319
CHOWDER
Chowders get their name from the French
loute. For this reason, more fat is necessary
made their stews. Classically, chowders
when cooking the aromatics; this is critical
were made from seafood and included
to successfully making any soup using the
pork, potatoes, and onions, though it is not
singer method.
uncommon for any thick, rich, and chunky
It is precisely because of this that the
soup to be called a chowder. There is also
singer method can be an unreliable way
a group of chowders, of which Manhattan-
to make chowder. The results vary widely
Style Clam Chowder (page 344) may be the
because the fat traditionally comes from
most widely known, that are prepared more
a rendered pork product and it is hard to
like a hearty broth. The main flavoring
predict how much fat will render out; it
ingredients for chowder are often shellfish,
is then difficult to determine how much
fish, or vegetables, such as corn. Vegetables,
additional fat is needed. The amount of fat
whether used as main flavoring ingredients
released can create an unreliable ratio of
or as aromatics, should be well rinsed, then
fat to flour, creating either too much roux
peeled, trimmed, and cut into small and
or not enough roux to thicken the quantity
uniform pieces so they cook evenly.
of chowder being made.
Use a well-seasoned, full-bodied broth
In addition, the vegetables release
or stock, or water. Bring the liquid up to a
moisture during the sweating period,
simmer, along with seasonings, aromatics,
which can interfere with the formation of
or other ingredients meant to provide fla
the roux. Using the proper amount of roux
vor. Refer to specific recipes for guidance.
made separately ensures the success of the
Thickeners, including flour and potatoes,
chowders thickness and consistency.
give chowders their texture.

Assemble the finishing ingredients, fi
For more control over the finished

product, a veloute-based soup should be
nal flavoring and seasonings, and garnishes
made. See the method in detail on page 317
ahead of time to be ready to add at the
for more detailed instructions. Because the
proper time. If adding cream, bring it to a
roux will be hot, make sure the liquid to be
simmer before adding it to the simmering
added is cool or at room temperature, oth
chowder.
erwise the roux will become lumpy. Add
Traditionally, chowder is made em
320
aromatics, rather than separately as for ve
word chaudiere, a kettle in which fisherman
the liquid slowly while stirring constantly
ploying the singer method, in which the
to further ensure that the finished liquid
flour for thickening is cooked with the
for the chowder will be smooth.
u r ee so u ps a re slig h tly thicker th an crea m

ften
based
entirely
interest
so u ps
h e r b s
p u r e e d
.A
are
on
dried
th o u g h
lthough
often
l e g u m e s
potatoes
o c ca sio n a lly
not n e c e s s a r y
g a rn ished
or v e g e t a b l e
w ith
so u ps an d h ave a s o m e w h a t co arser t e x t u r e
or s t a r ch y
so m e
finishing
cro uto n s
of
the
v e g e t a b l e s
so lids
le ft
are
ingredients m a y
or s m a l l
dice
of
pu r ee
include
a
so u p s a re
w h o le
for
t e x t u r a l
milk or c r e a m
c o m p l e m e n t a r y
u s u a lly
m eat
.P
,
uree
fresh
puree soups
P
O
puree soups
M any puree soups are based on dried beans: G reat N o rth ern , navy, or black beans, le ntils,
and s p lit peas, fo r example. Beans o th e r than le n tils and s p lit peas may be soaked f o r sev
eral hours b e fo re cooking. The beans absorb some liquid, th e overall c oo kin g tim e is s h o rt
ened, and th e beans cook m ore evenly and absorb less liquid du rin g th e cooking process.
R e la tive ly sta rch y veg etab le s such as p o ta to e s, squash, o r ce le ry ro o t are o fte n the
base f o r o th e r puree soups. These have to be peeled and diced o r sliced. Even though these
in g re d ie n ts are pureed, re la tiv e u n ifo rm ity o f cu t size is necessary f o r th e in g re d ie n ts to
cook evenly.
A ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as onions, ga rlic, ca rro ts, and celery are o fte n fo u n d in puree
soups. Vegetables may be ro a ste d or g rille d beforeh an d fo r e xtra flavo r. C onsult sp e cific
recipes fo r p re p a ra tio n and c u ttin g in stru ctio n s.
W ater, b ro th , and s to ck are th e m o st fre q u e n tly used base liquids. Check th e freshn ess
o f b ro th s o r s to cks th a t have been sto re d b e fo re using the m in a soup.
M any puree soups based on a legume call fo r a b it o f rendered s a lt pork, sm oked
ham, bacon, o r o th e r cured po rk p ro d u cts. In som e instances, th e se in g re d ie n ts should be
blanched f ir s t to rem ove any excess salt: cover the m w ith cool w ater, b rin g the w a te r to a
sim m er, and then drain and rinse. C onsult s p e c ific recipes fo r m ore guidance. An a lte rn a
tiv e is to use a ham -based bro th . Besides cured pork, in g re d ie n ts used to season puree
soups are as diverse as chiles, d ried m ushroom s, h o t sauce, c itru s ze st or ju ice, and vinegar.
G arnishes include chopped herbs, croutons, diced m eats, to a s te d o r frie d to rtilla s , salsas,
and d o llo p s o f sour cream.
E quipm ent re q u ire m e n ts f o r m aking puree soups are q u ite s im ila r to tho se f o r cream
soups. Look f o r po ts w ith heavy b o tto m s, to avoid scorching and developing h o t spots.
If available, a heat d iffu s e r o r o th e r s im ila r device should be used to keep th e heat even.
Keep ta s tin g spoons and cups on hand so th a t you can check th e fla v o r o f th e soup th ro u g h
o u t th e cooking tim e . Have wooden spoons, ladles, and skim m e rs available th ro u g h o u t the
cooking process. Pureeing e q uipm en t such as a fo o d m ill or blender is necessary to fin ish
th e soup. You w ill also need con tain ers f o r c oo lin g o r ho ld ing th e soup.
321
b asic fo rm u la
Puree Soup
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg vegetables, such
(1 gal/3.84 L)
as potatoes and/or squash or
Note: This form ula varies based

on the starch content o f the
VA to 2
main ingredient being used.
Flavorings such as salt pork,
lb /6 8 0 to 9 0 7 g dried
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 )
Dried legumes have diffe re nt

starch contents from starchy
vegetables such as butternut
squash or potatoes. The amount
Seasonings and other flavorings,
o f stock being used and the time

allo tte d fo r proper cooking w ill
such as salt and pepper, tomatoes,
vary based on starch content.
legumes, such as lentils
smoked ham, or bacon

1 lb /4 5 4 g Standard or White
Mirepoix (page 2 4 3 ) or other
aromatic vegetables
1 g a l/3 .8 4 L stock or broth for
lemon juice, or vinegar
soups made with potatoes or

starchy vegetables;
Finishing and garnishing
or 5 q t/4 .8 0 L stock or broth
ingredients such as croutons,
for soups made with legumes
fresh herbs, or diced ham
method
at-a-glance
ex p ert tips Q
1. Sweat the vegetables.

2. Add the liquid.
3. Establish a simmer.
4 . Add the main ingredient, if
the pureed soup. Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early
can be added to heighten the flavor of
in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they
not added in step 1.
retain their original flavor.
5. Add the sachet depices or
bouquet garni.
M IR E P O IX / SA CH ET D 'E P IC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / S M O K E D H A M OR SALT
P O R K /T O M A T O E S

Garnishing a puree soup is yet another way to introduce and influence

flavors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shapes
7.
Strain.
are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service.
8. Puree the solids.

9.
10.
C RO U TO N S / S M A L L -D IC E H A M / S M A L L D IC E OR W H O LE PIEC ES OF THE M A IN
Reincorporate the liquid to

the proper consistency.
FLAVO RING IN G R E D IE N T / FRESH HERBS
Cool and store, or finish

or sole garnish.
322
Reduce or remove additions that will add
excess fa t and calories, such as m eat products. Use vegetables as the primary
puree soups
1. render the salt pork,
if using, to be
gin th e process o f bu ild in g a fla v o r base. It also pro vid es

th e fa t necessary to sw e at or brow n th e a ro m atics. If the
recipe calls f o r m inced s a lt p o rk o r bacon, re n d e r it over
low heat to release th e fa t. You can also use b u tte r or
oil f o r a m ea tless soup. L ig h tly brow n th e a ro m a tic veg
eta ble s. Cook ove r low to m edium heat, s tirrin g fro m tim e
to tim e , u n til a rich arom a develops o r u n til th e y ta ke on a
rich golden hue, anyw here fro m 20 to 30 m inutes.

and th e liq u id a t th e a p p ro p ria te in te rva ls. Add dry, dense,
tough, fib ro u s , o r s ta rc h y in g re d ie n ts (dry beans, ro o t
vegetables, w in te r squash, f o r instance) a t th e beginning
o f cooking tim e , usually as soon as th e s to ck o r b ro th
has reached a sim m er. Since th e soup is pureed b e fo re
service, it is less c ritic a l tha n in a h e a rty b ro th th a t these
in g re d ie n ts n o t overcook; th e re th e in g re d ie n ts are in
te n d e d to re ta in th e ir shape du rin g coo kin g and service.
S im m er u n til th e soup is w e ll fla v o re d and all th e in g re
die n ts are ve ry ten der, 25 to 3 0 m in u te s f o r soups made
w ith sta rch y v e g e ta b le s o r p o ta to e s or 45 m in utes to 1
hour f o r soup m ade w ith d rie d legumes.
S tir th e soup fre q u e n tly as i t cooks to p re ve n t sta rch y
in g re d ie n ts fro m s tic k in g to th e b o tto m o f th e po t. Add
m ore s to c k o r o th e r liq u id as necessary du rin g th e co o k
ing tim e . The sta rc h y o r d ry in g re d ie n ts used in many
puree soups w ill absorb d iffe re n t am ounts o f liq u id as
th e y cook, de pe nd ing upon th e ir m a tu rity . S kim th e soup
as it cooks to rem ove any im p u ritie s o r scum, and ad ju st
seasoning as necessary. Add a sach et d'epices or bouq ue t
garni du rin g th e fin a l 3 0 m in utes o f c oo kin g tim e.
Puree soups based on legum es m ay call f o r a ham
hock o r s im ila r sm oked p o rk cut. Sm oked ham hocks are
e x tre m e ly tou gh and re q u ire long, slow coo kin g in o rd e r
f o r the m to be te n d e r enough to use in puree soups.
T ypically, a ham hock b ro th is cooked f o r 3 to 5 hours in
advance o f p re p a rin g th e puree soup. Once th e hocks are
cooked, the re s u ltin g b ro th can be used as th e liquid base
f o r th e soup. Remove th e p o rk fro m th e soup once it has
added th e de sire d fla v o r. C ut th e lean m ea t in to ne at dice
and reserve to add as a garnish.
323
3. strain out a small portion
o f the
coo kin g liquid and reserve f o r a d ju stin g th e fin a l con sis

te n cy o f th e soup. Puree th e rem a ining solids and liquid
and ad ju st seasoning and con sisten cy. D iffe re n t ty p e s o f
pu ree ing e q u ip m e n t w ill produce d iffe re n t te x tu re s in th e
fin is h e d soup. R ustic o r h o m e -style purees may be re la
tiv e ly coarse and may even re ly sim p ly upon th e sta rch in
th e main in g re d ie n t to give th e soup its th icke n e d te x tu re .
A fo o d m ill f it te d w ith a coarse disk can also be used
f o r a te x tu re d puree. B lenders and im m e rsion blenders
produce ve ry sm oo th soups w ith a ve ry fin e consistency.
As h o t puree soups s it, th e sta rc h y m ain in g re d ie n ts may
con tinu e to absorb liq u id and th icke n th e soup. Check the
co n siste n cy in te r m itte n tly and ad ju st as necessary. A t
th is p o in t, th e soup is ready to be fin is h e d and garnished
f o r service o r ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d .
4. puree soups are som ew hat th ic k e r and have

a s lig h tly coa rser te x tu re tha n o th e r th ic k soups, b u t the y
should s till be liquid enough to pour easily fro m a ladle
in to a bowl, w ith a co n siste n cy s im ila r to heavy cream.
A p ro p e r balance betw een solid in g re d ie n ts and liquid
re su lts in a soup w ith a pleasing, ro b u s t flavo r. O ptionally,
fo r e xtra richness, a b it o f s o fte n e d b u tte r can be sw irled
on to p o f th e soup ju s t b e fo re it leaves th e kitche n f o r the
d in in g ro o m .
324
in
Tr a d it i o n a l l y , b is q u e s a r e b a s e d o n c r u s t a c e a n s s u c h a s s h r im p , l o b s t e r , or c r a y f is h , a n d
t h ic k e n e d w it h
r ic e , r ic e f l o u r , or b r e a d .
T h e c r u s t a c e a n s h e l l s a r e u s u a l l y PULVERIZED
ALONG WITH THE OTHER INGREDIENTS BEFORE A F IN A L STRAININ G. T h e END RESULT IS A SOUP WITH A
1 -0
^
fD
CONSISTENCY LIKE THAT OF A CREAM SOUP.
bisque
C o ntem p orary bisques may be based on in g re d ie n ts o th e r than crustaceans and may rely
on a veg etab le puree or roux as th e thickener. Added th icke n e rs are unnecessary i f using
a prepared velou te . A veg etable-based bisque is pre pa red in the same m anner as a puree
soup. If th e main v eg etab le does n o t contain enough starch to act as a thickener, rice, roux,
o r a sta rch y veg etab le such as p o ta to may be used to provide a d d itio n a l thickness. When
th e veg etab le s are tender, th e soup is pureed u n til sm ooth. C onsequently, the d is tin c tio n
betw een a puree and a bisque is n o t always clear.
C rustacean m eat and shells fo r bisque should be rinsed well, the n coarsely chopped.
S h e llfish should be scrubbed clean. Check the q u a lity o f s to re d fu m e ts , stocks, or bro th s
used to prepare a bisque b e fo re use. B ring a sm all am ount to a bo il and ta s te it fo r any sour
o r o f f odors. Peel, trim , and chop any veg etab le s to be used in th e bisque. Chopped onion,
m ire poix, o r g a rlic is ge ne rally a p a rt o f th e soup. O th er in g re d ie n ts fre q u e n tly used to add
fla v o r and co lo r include to m a to paste, sw e et paprika, brandy, and wine.
Cream and she rry are fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts f o r m o st bisques. Diced cooked pieces o f
the main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t com m only garnish a bisque.
The eq uipm en t re q u ire m e n ts fo r m aking bisque are id e n tica l to th o se fo r m aking cream
soup (see page 3 1 5) and include a heavy-gauge pot, pureeing e q uipm ent, and a s tra in e r or
cheesecloth, as w e ll as eq uipm en t fo r holding, serving, and sto rin g .
325
basic formula
Bisque
Tomato paste or puree
A thickening agent such as Blond
salt and pepper, paprika, Standard

Sachet d'Epices or Standard
Bouquet Garni (page 241)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
2 lb/907 g of one or more main
Roux (see page 246), flour, or

rice (whole grains or flou r), if
flavoring ingredients, such as

crustacean shells (shrimp, crab,
lobster, or a combination)
not using a prepared veloute

1 gal/3.84 L liquid (shellfish stock,
fumet, broth, or shellfish veloute)
1 lb/454 g Standard or White

Mirepoix (page 243)
Finishing and garnishing

ingredients, such as 16 fl
oz/480 mL heavy cream, diced
or other cuts of cooked shrimp,
lobster, or crab; sherry
method
at-a-glance
expert tips Q
Sear the crustacean shells

in a fat. Remove the shells
from the pan.
To thicken,
Add the m irepoix and

sweat.
any one of the following may be used depending on the de
sired results:
V E LO U T E / BLOND R O U X / FLO U R / RICE OR R IC E FLOUR
Add the tom ato product

and pingage.
Add the alcohol, if using,

and reduce au sec.
Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they retain their
5. Incorporate the roux, if
individual flavor and/or texture.
using.
M IR E P O IX / SA C H E T D 'E P IC E S / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / TO M ATO PASTE
Add the liquid and sachet

d'epices or bouquet garni.
Add the shells back to the
pan.
Garnishing
abisque is yet another way to introduce and influence fla
vors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are
added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service.
7. Simmer and skim.
H E A V Y CREA M / S H E R R Y / D ICED COOKED S H RIM P, LO BSTER, OR CRAB
Discard the bouquet garni

or sachet d'epices when the
proper fla vor is reached.
high in starch) to thicken the soup in place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace
cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.
9. Strain.
10. Puree the solids.
Reincorporate the liquid to

12. Strain.
13. Cool and store, or finish

j
c r
I*
1. rinse the shells well
and chop la rge r
h Q
shells, such as crab o r lo b ste r. Drain and d ry th e m well.
T ra d itio n a l bisques g e t th e ir c o lo r and fla v o r fro m shrim p,
rt>
lobster, crab, o r c ra y fis h shells. Use one ty p e o f c ru s ta

cean or a co m b in ation . Brow n th e shells in th e coo kin g fa t,
s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til th e y tu rn a b rig h t pink o r red and
rem ove th e m fro m th e pan.
m eth o d in detail
2. add the mirepoix to th e pan and cook
it over m edium he at f o r 2 0 to 30 m inutes, o r u n til th e
veg etab le s are te n d e r and th e onions are lig h t brown.
Tom ato pa ste is o fte n added a t th is p o in t and allow ed to
cook u n til it has a sw e et arom a and a deep ru s t color. Add
spices such as pa prika to th e shells and o th e r a ro m a tics
to cook in th e fa t.
c h a p te r 14 SO UP S
327
3. add a prepared roux
to the shells and
cook long enough to s o fte n th e roux. W hisk in the liquid to

fo rm a velou te .
A g o o d -q u a lity s to c k o r b ro th is as im p o rta n t to the
fla v o r o f a bisque as the shells are. If available, a prepared
lig h t v e lo u te made fro m a s h e llfis h o r fis h stock, th ic k
ened w ith a blond roux, may be used. Bring the ve lo u te to
a sim m e r w h ile coo kin g th e a ro m a tic veg etab le s to make
coo kin g m ore e ffic ie n t. A m ore tra d itio n a l rice -th icke n e d
sto c k may also be used as th e base f o r th e soup. In th a t
case, th e re is no need to add e ith e r flo u r or a prepared
roux.
A t th is p o in t, add w ine and a d d itio n a l herbs or a ro
m atics, such as a sachet d'epices o r b o uq ue t garni.
4. taste the soup and make m o d ific a tio n s to

the seasoning o r c o n siste n cy du rin g cooking. Add m ore
liquid, if necessary, to m aintain a good balance betw een
th e liquid and solids as th e soup cooks. Skim the bisque
th ro u g h o u t. S tir fre q u e n tly and m o n ito r th e heat. A
bisque, like any o th e r soup w ith sta rch y in g re d ie n ts, can
scorch q u ickly i f le ft un a tte n d e d f o r even a fe w m inutes.
A bisque ta ke s 45 m in utes to 1 hour to cook p ro pe rly.
A t th a t p o in t, all in g re d ie n ts (except, obviously, the shells)
should be re la tiv e ly tender, so th e y w ill puree easily. Re
move and discard th e sachet o r bouq ue t b e fo re pureeing
the bisque. Use a blen der (im m e rsion o r c o u n te rto p ) to
puree it to a fa irly sm oo th and even consistency. P ulveriz
ing th e shells and pureeing the a ro m a tic veg etab le s helps
to release m ore fla v o r in to th e soup. If tim e allow s, re tu rn
th e pureed bisque to a sim m e r f o r several m in utes and
make any a p p ro p ria te a d ju stm e n ts to th e soup's season
ing o r c o n siste n cy b e fo re strain in g.
328
5. strain a shellfish bisque th ro u g h
h Q
rinsed doubled cheesecloth. C heesecloth rem oves all
tra ce s o f th e shell and gives th e bisque a ve ry fin e , d e li-
CD
cate te x tu re . This is a tw o -p e rs o n ta sk. F irst, se t a sieve

o r colander in a clean po t. Drape th e rinsed cheesecloth
in th e sieve and pour th e bisque th ro u g h it. M o s t o f the
bisque w ill pass th ro u g h th e cheesecloth. Each person
holds tw o corners o f th e che ese cloth and then lift s the
corners up in an a lte rn a tin g sequence (known as th e m ilk
ing m ethod). W hen only so lid s rem ain in th e cheesecloth,
each person g a th e rs his o r her corners to g e th e r and
tw is ts in o p p o s ite d ire c tio n s to fin is h s tra in in g th e bisque
(known as th e w rin g in g m ethod). Be ve ry c a re fu l when
using th e w rin g in g m etho d so as n o t to burn yo u rse lf. A
fin e mesh sieve lined w ith che ese cloth can also be used to
stra in th e soup. The bisque is ready to fin is h now, o r may
be ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d f o r la te r service.
6. finish the bisque and add any garnish

in gre die nts. R eturn th e bisque to m edium heat and bring
it to a sim m er. Taste th e soup and make any seasoning
ad ju stm e n ts. If using, b rin g th e cream to a sim m e r sepa
ra te ly and g ra d u a lly add it to th e bisque. There should be
enough cream to enrich th e soup and add a sm oo th fla v o r
and m o u th fe e l, b u t n o t so much th a t th e cream m asks the
main in gre die nt.
A good bisque re fle c ts th e fla v o r o f th e main in g re
dien t. A ll bisques are s lig h tly coarse or grainy, w ith a
con sisten cy s im ila r to heavy cream . A crustacean bisque
ranges fro m pale pink o r red to ivo ry in co lo r and a veg
eta b le bisque, a pa le r shade o f th e m ain vegetable.
329
general guidelines for soup

COOKING
Add v egetables at stag gere d in te rvals, according to cooking tim e s. S tir th e soup fro m tim e to
tim e th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process, to pre ven t s ta rch y in g re d ie n ts fro m s tic k in g to th e b o t
to m o f th e p o t and f o r th e be st fla vo r, te x tu re , and appearance. When th e fla v o r is fu lly devel
oped and all o f th e in g re d ie n ts are tender, th e soup may be fin is h e d o r garnished and served
rig h t away, o r cooled and re frig e ra te d . A ltho ug h some soups develop a m ore rounded, m ellow
fla v o r if served the day a fte r th e y are prepared, no soup b e n e fits fro m hours on th e stove. N ot
only w ill th e fla v o r becom e dull and fla t, b u t the n u tritiv e value w ill g re a tly dim inish as well.
ADJUSTING CONSISTENCY
Thick soups, esp ecially tho se made w ith sta rch y veg etab le s o r d ried beans, may continue to
th icke n durin g cooking, storage, and re h e a tin g or holding. As a rule, cream s and bisques are
ab ou t as th ic k as cold heavy cream and liquid enough to pour fro m a ladle in to a bowl. Purees
are som ew hat thicker.
For a soup th a t is to o thin , a sm all am ount o f sta rch slu rry may be added. Have th e soup at
a sim m e r o r slow bo il when th e slu rry is added, then s tir c o n s ta n tly and continue to sim m er fo r
2 or 3 m inutes.
ADJUSTING FLAVOR AND SEASONING

Season soups th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process. M e a t o r p o u ltry glaze may be added to b o ls te r
a w eak b ro th o r consom m e, b u t th is w ill a ffe c t th e cla rity. Chopped fre s h herbs, a fe w drops
o f lemon ju ice, Tabasco sauce, W o rce ste rsh ire sauce, or g ra te d c itru s ze st may be added to
b rig h te n a soup's flavo r.
DEGREASING
Some soups, especially bro th -b a se d ones, may be prepared in advance, then cooled and re
frig e ra te d . It is then easy to rem ove the fa t, which congeals on th e surface, b e fo re reh ea ting
th e soup. If th e soup is to be served ju s t a fte r it is prepared, skim as much fa t as possible fro m
th e surface. Clear soups may be b lo tte d w ith s trip s o f paper to w e l or unwaxed brown butcher
paper to rem ove any tra ce s o f fa t b e fo re serving. F lo a t th e s trip s on th e surface, then care
fu lly l i f t the m o ff. Consommes should be c o m p le te ly fa t fre e , b u t b ro th s and clear vegetable
soups c h a ra c te ris tic a lly have some d ro p le ts o f f a t on th e surface. It is always b e st to s ta rt
w ith th e sm a lle st am ount o f f a t possible to pre ve n t the need f o r excess degreasing.
FIN ISH IN G
Some soups may be prepared to a sp e c ific p o in t and the n cooled and re frig e ra te d . Garnish
clear soups ju s t b e fo re service to pre ven t the m fro m becom ing cloudy and to keep th e garnish
fresh.
Some garnishes are added, p o rtio n by p o rtio n , to heated cups o r bow ls ju s t p rio r to se r
vice. In o th e r cases, such as fo r b u ffe t service, th e garnish m ay be added to th e e n tire q u a n tity
o f soup.
Finish cream and liaison soups ju s t p rio r to service. Do th is f o r tw o reasons: th e soup w ill
have a fre s h e r flavo r, and its s h e lf life w ill be longer. B ring cream to a bo il b e fo re adding it to
soup to check freshn ess and pre ven t it fro m low ering th e soups te m p e ra tu re . Temper a lia i
son to pre ven t cu rd lin g (see pages 2 4 9 to 250). Make fin a l seasoning ad ju stm e nts a fte r the
soup is finishe d. Alw ays check the seasoning im m e d ia te ly b e fo re service.
330
in
c
T3
G ARNISHING
Garnishes may provide c o n tra sts o f fla v o r and te x tu re o r th e y may in tro d u ce a com plem en
ta ry fla vo r. They m ay also provide a d d itio n a l o r c o n tra s tin g color. In all cases, th e y should be
th o u g h tfu lly s elected , w ell prepared, and w ell seasoned.
Shape large garnishes, such as dum plings, w ontons, o r quenelles, to a size th a t does not
QPQ
allow the m to overw helm the soup cup o r p la te se le cte d f o r service. It is equally im p o rta n t
th a t th e y n o t be to o d iffic u lt f o r th e gu est to eat. They should be s o ft enough to cut throu gh
J U I*
w ith th e edge o f a soup spoon.
Since service te m p e ra tu re is e xtre m e ly im p o rta n t f o r all soups, rem em ber to bring the garnish to service te m p e ra tu re be fore adding it to the soup. There are several ways to do this:
Heat the garnish in a steam er or in a small quantity of broth or consomme and hold it in a
steam table.
Cut delicate items into shapes th at will allow the heat of the soup to warm them thoroughly.
If they are small and relatively thin, they will not cause the soup's tem perature to drop too
severely.
Keep large items like dumplings, wontons, or quenelles warm and lightly moistened in a
steam table or on the shelf over the range, covered to prevent dehydration of the product.
SERVING
H ot soups should be served very hot. The th in n e r the soup, th e m ore im p o rta n t th is is. Since
consom m es and bro th s lose th e ir heat rapidly, th e y should be nearly at a boil b e fore the y are
ladled in to heated cups. The m ore surface area exposed to th e air, th e quicker the soup w ill
cool. This is one reason th a t consom m es and o th e r b ro th -s ty le soups are tra d itio n a lly served
in cups ra th e r than in the fla tte r, w id e r soup p lates o r bowls o fte n used fo r cream soups and pu
rees. S erving th in soups in cups also makes it easier fo r servers to tra n s p o rt the soup w ith o u t
spilling. Cold soups should be th o ro u g h ly chilled and served in chilled cups, bowls, or glasses.
Take th e tim e to explain to anyone involved in serving soups th e im p ortan ce o f keeping
ho t soups ve ry h o t and ta k in g the m q u ickly fro m th e kitche n to th e guest. Show all servers or
line cooks th e w ay th a t a soup should look when it is served to th e guest, w ith garnishes and
a d d itio n a l elem ents such as g ra te d cheese or fin e oils to pass o r serve a t tab leside.
REHEATING
If a soup has been prepared in advance, reheat only th e am ount needed fo r a p a rtic u la r service
period. M aintainin g fo o d a t high te m p e ra tu re s fo r extended periods o fte n has undesirable e f
fe c ts on fla v o r and te xtu re . One good way to m aintain o p tim um q u a lity and m inim ize w aste
is to reh ea t in dividu al p o rtio n s to order. Som etim es, however, th is approach is n o t practical.
Learn the be st way to make use o f the eq uipm ent available fo r service to de term in e how to g e t
fo o d s to service te m p e ra tu re . G e ttin g fo o d s throu gh the danger zone quickly is im p o rta n t.
B ring clear soup ju s t up to a boil. Check seasoning and con sisten cy and add the a p p ro p ri
ate garnishes b e fo re serving. Reheat th ic k soups g e n tly. Reheat th e soup over low heat at
fir s t, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly u n til it so fte n s s lig h tly . Then increase th e heat s lig h tly and bring the
soup to a simmer. If a soup has already been fin is h e d w ith cream , sour cream, o r esp ecially a li
aison, do n o t le t it com e all th e w ay up to a bo il o r it may curdle. A te m p e ra tu re o f 18 0F /82C
is adequate f o r bo th q u a lity and fo o d s a fe ty concerns. Check seasoning and con sisten cy and
add any garnishes ju s t b e fo re serving.
Check th e te m p e ra tu re re g ularly f o r soups held in a steam tab le. If the y co n siste n tly fa ll
s h o rt o f a desirable te m p e ra tu re (at least 1 6 5F /74C fo r m o st soups and sauces), then ad ju st
th e th e rm o s ta t on the steam tab le, have it repaired, or learn to com pensate by qu ickly bringing
in dividu al servings to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re over d ire c t heat o r in a m icrowave.
331
Beef Consomme
with paper towels, or lift the fat from the surface of
Makes l gal/3.84 L
the refrigerated consomme.

/ . Taste the consomme and adjust seasoning with salt.
CLARIFICATION
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced or ground Standard
Mirepoix (page 2 4 3)
3 lb /1.36 kg lean ground beef
12
1
egg whites, beaten
o z/2 8 g salt
10 o z/2 8 4 g fresh or canned tomatoes, chopped

1 Standard Sachet dEpices (page 241), plus
1 clove and 2 allspice berries (see Notes)
q t/5 .7 6 L White Beef Stock (page 263), cold
2 oignons brules (see page 240; optional)
1. Blend the mirepoix, ground beef, egg whites, salt,

tomatoes, and the sachet ingredients. Allow to m ac
erate for 1 to 2 hours if time permits.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish as desired.

I
NOTES: The aromatics can be added as a sachet (which will
b e tte r control the flavo r o f the finished product), or as
rt>
loose ingredients.
If the firs t cla rificatio n was less than successful,

c la rify a second tim e by combining 1 gal/3.84 L cold
consomme w ith no more than 12 beaten egg whites,a
small amount o f mirepoix, and 1 tb sp /1 5 mL chopped
tomatoes. Bring the consomme slowly to a boil. As the
egg whites coagulate, the im purities w ill be trapped.
This emergency measure, however, tends to remove not
only the im purities but some flavo r as well.
Chicken Consomme Royale: S ubstitute an equal amount
o f W hite Mirepoix (page 243) fo r the standard mirepoix,
ground chicken fo r the ground beef, and Chicken
Stock (page 263) fo r the w hite beef stock. Simmer
at approxim ately 180F/82C fo r 1 hour to 1 hour 15
minutes. Garnish the consomme w ith Royale Custard
(recipe follows).
Heat the stock to approximately iooF/38C in a

stockpot sized to accommodate all the ingredients.
Add the clarification mixture to the stock. Stir to
combine thoroughly.
3. Bring the mixture to 145F/63C, stirring frequently

until the raft just begins to form, 8 to 10 minutes.
Look for the proteins to start to float and form small
quarter-size clumps with lighter, unclarified broth
between them. Once raft forms, firmly create a small
Royale Custard
Makes ninety i-in/3-cm rounds
3 egg yolks
l e gg
fl oz /1 8 0 mL Chicken or White
Beef Stock (page 263)
hole in part of the raft. If using, add the oignons

brules to the stock near the hole.
4. Simmer slowly at approximately i8oF/82C until

the appropriate flavor and clarity is achieved (see
page 3 0 9 ), 1 to 1V2 hours. Baste the raft occasionally
V* tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed

Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed
1. Mix all the ingredients together and pour the cus
through the opening. Always taste to make sure the
tard into a buttered half hotel pan. The custard
consomme has developed full flavor before straining.
should be no more than Ys in/9 mm thick.
5. Strain the consomme through a damp paper filter
2 . Set the pan in a hot water bath and bake it in a
or rinsed doubled cheesecloth: Use a ladle to push
3 00F /i49C oven until just firm throughout, about
down on the raft carefully at the hole and allow the
30 minutes.
broth to flow into the ladle before pouring through

the filter. Repeat until the raft hits the bottom of the
3. Using a i-in/3-cm round cutter, cut the custard into

circles. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
pot. Carefully tilt the broth into the ladle and do not
break the raft. Adjust seasoning with salt as needed.
The consomme is now ready to finish, or may be
rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. De
grease the hot consomme by skimming or blotting
NOTES: To ensure that the custard has a uniform thickness,

select a hotel pan that has a com pletely fla t bottom and
be sure th a t the rack inside the oven is level.
The royale may be cut into various shapes, such as
diamonds or squares. The yield w ill vary depending on
the shape and size o f the c utters used.
333
Chicken Broth
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
1 stewing hen ( 8 lb /3.63 kg), or two 4-lb /1 .8 1-k g hens
5 q t/4 .8 0 L water
B ee f B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount

o f beef shank, chuck, bottom round, oxtail, or short ribs.
Veal B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount
o f veal shank or shin, chuck, bottom round, or calf's head.
Ham or Sm oked Pork B roth : Replace the stewing hen with
an equal amount o f ham hocks (fresh or smoked), meaty
ham bones, or Boston butt.

Salt, as needed
1 . Cut the hen in half and place in an appropriate size

stockpot. Add enough cold water to just cover the
chicken. Bring the liquid to a simmer over medium
heat. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to sim
mer 3 to 5 hours until the hen is very tender and a
deep flavor has been achieved. Skim the surface as
necessary.
2 . Add the mirepoix and simmer for 30 minutes. Add

the sachet to the broth and continue to simmer until
the broth has a rich flavor and good body, another 30
to 40 minutes.
3 . Remove the hen from the broth when it is fully

cooked and tender. Discard the bones, skin, and
tendons. Reserve the meat to use as a garnish for the
broth or for other applications, if desired.
4 . Taste the broth and season with salt and pepper.

Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve or cheese
cloth and degrease, if necessary. It is ready to garnish
and serve in heated bowls or cups (see Notes), use
as an ingredient in another dish, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later use.
NOTES: As shown on page 314, chicken broth can be
garnished w ith 10 o z/2 84 g of the reserved chicken
meat, diced; 10 oz/2 84 gH erbed Pasta (page819), cut
into l-in /3 -c m squares and cooked; and 6 oz/170 g each
of paysanne-cut carrot and celery, cooked until tender.
Other options fo r garnishing chicken broth include
julienned meat, diced or fin e ly julienned vegetables,
barley, or Spatzle (page 834).
Am ish Corn and Chicken Soup: S ubstitute Chicken Stock

(page 263) fo r water when making the broth. Add !4
ts p /0 .2 0 g crushed saffron threads w ith the sachet. Dice
or shred the reserved chicken meat and add it to the
broth along w ith 6 oz/170 g cooked fresh or frozen corn
kernels, 6 oz/170 g cooked egg noodles, and 2 oz/57 g
chopped parsley.
Lamb B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount

o f lamb shank, leg, shoulder, or neck.
Turkey o r Game B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an
equal amount o f necks, backs, or legs o f turkey, guinea
hen, duck, pheasant, goose, or other poultry or game
birds.
Fish B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount
o f lean white fish, such as cod, halibut, hake, flounder, or
pike. Use White Mirepoix (page 243) to keep a light color.
S h e llfish B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal
amount o f shrimp, lobster, crayfish, and/or crab.
C/3
o
Onion Soup
Tortilla Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
|_^
ro
^
5 lb /2.27 kg thinly sliced onions
12
2 o z/5 7 g clarified or whole butter
1 white onion (about 10 o z/2 8 4 g), halved and peeled
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Calvados or sherry (see Note)
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken or White Beef

Stock (page 263), warm
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL canola oil
plum tomatoes (about
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g), cored

|
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Broth (page 263)

12
epazote sprigs, tied with a string
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . In a large sauce pot or rondeau, caramelize the on
4 pasilla chiles
2 4 corn tortillas, cut into julienne
avocados, cut into medium dice
ions in the butter over medium-high heat, stirring
occasionally, until browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Do not
2 cups/480 mL crumbled queso fresco
add any salt at this time, to prevent the extraction of

moisture and allow for optimum caramelization.
2 . Deglaze the pan with the Calvados and reduce over
1 . Dry roast the tomatoes, onion, and garlic on a comal or

in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until the
medium-high to high heat until it reaches a syrupy
tomatoes begin to soften and their edges char. Once
consistency.
the garlic skin begins to brown, remove it from the
3 . Add the stock and the sachet and simmer until the
onions are tender and the soup is properly flavored, 30
to 35 minutes. The soup is ready to finish now, or may
be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Sea

son with salt and pepper and serve in heated bowls
or cups.
heat and peel.
2 . Puree the roasted tomatoes, onion, and garlic in a

blender until smooth.
3 . Heat 4 fl oz/120 mL oil in a stockpot over mediumhigh heat and fry the pureed mixture, stirring fre
quently, until it deepens in color, about 5 minutes. Add
the chicken broth and epazote. Season with salt and
bring the soup to a simmer. Simmer for 45 minutes.
NOTE: If sherry is used, add it to the soup at the end of

cooking time. Adding sherry at step 2 can cause the wine
4 . Meanwhile, slice the pasilla chiles crossways into
flavor to dissipate. Sweet wines like sherry are best
%-in/i-cm rings. Shake the rings to remove the seeds.
added when soup is finished.
Discard the stems and seeds.
5 . Heat the remaining 6 fl oz/i8o mL oil in a medium

W h ite Onion Soup: Gently cook the onions in bu tte r over
low heat until they are limp but not colored. If desired,
add up to 6 oz/170 g flo u r as a thickener. The onions may
also be pureed and added back to the soup.
Onion Soup G ratinee: Portion the soup into flam eproof
bowls or crocks. Garnish each portion o f the soup with
a th in ly sliced, oval crouton (see page 889). Top each
crouton generously w ith grated Gruyere (2 tb sp /3 0 mL
per serving) and brown under a salamander or broiler
until lightly b row ned, 3 to 5 minutes.
sauteuse over medium-high heat until very hot but

not smoking. Add the chile slices and immediately
turn off the heat; transfer the slices at once with a
slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate. This step
needs to be done very fast to prevent the chiles from
burning.
6 . Return the heat to medium. Working in small batches,
fry the tortilla strips in the chile-infused oil until golden
and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on
paper towels.
7 . Remove the epazote sprigs from the soup prior to

serving. Serve the soup in heated bowls or cups and
garnish each serving with a generous portion of fried
tortillas, pasilla chiles, avocado, and queso fresco.
335
Chicken Rice Soup
7 . Heat the palm oil and garlic in a soup pot over medi
um heat just until fragrant. Do not allow the garlic to
brown. Add salt, pepper, the strained stock, and the
( C a n jo )
rice and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and
Makes l gal/3.84 L
simmer until the rice is just al dente but still slightly

1 stewing hen (about 3 lb /1.36 kg), cut into
pieces
2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil

8
o z/2 2 7 g rough-cut Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped ginger

2
bay leaves
or
rosemary sprig
malagueta chiles or jalapenos, chopped
Salt, as needed
1 g al/3.84 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
ltb s p /1 5 m L palm oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 o z/8 5 g long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained
1 lb /4 5 4 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen
I V 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro, roughly chopped
1 . Blot the chicken pieces dry with a paper towel. Heat

the olive oil in a medium soup pot over medium
heat. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, and
brown until golden on all sides, 12 to 14 minutes.
Remove the chicken from the pot.
2 . Add the mirepoix, ginger, bay leaves, and chiles.

Saute over medium^high heat, stirring frequently,
until lightly colored and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
3 . Return the chicken to the pot and add the rosemary,

salt, pepper, and stock. Bring the soup to a simmer
at i85F/85C, stirring and scraping the bottom of
the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the
chicken is tender, 40 to 45 minutes.
4 . Remove the soup from the heat. Remove the chicken

pieces and reserve until cool enough to handle.
Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve and dis
card the solids.
5 . Let the strained stock sit for a few minutes to allow

the fat to rise to the surface. Degrease the stock and
discard the fat.
6 . Remove and discard the skin and bones from the
chicken. Cut the meat into medium dice. Reserve it
to garnish the soup later.
STOCKS, SA U C E S , A N D SO UP S
undercooked, about 15 minutes.

8 . Add the chicken meat and corn and simmer until
the corn is tender and the chicken is heated through,
5 minutes more.
9 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish the

soup with the cilantro and serve in heated bowls or
cups, or rapidly cool and refrigerate for later use.
CO
Cream o f Tomato Soup

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice bacon (optional; see Notes)
Cream of Broccoli Soup * c0

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
i-i
rt>
4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
2 lb /9 0 7 g chopped plum tomatoes,

fresh when in season or canned
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot

2
24 f 1o z/7 2 0 mL tomato puree

1 Standard Sachet dEpices (page 241), plus 2 cloves
tbsp / 2
'
g salt, or as needed
V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed


4 ts p /1 2 g salt, or as needed
V A ts p /2 .5 g ground white pepper, or as needed
GARNISH
8
o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Remove the florets from the broccoli and reserve

about 1 lb/454 g fr garnish. Peel and dice the stems.
2.. Heat the butter or oil in a large sauce pot over medium
heat and add the mirepoix. Sweat until the onions are
translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the unreserved broc
coli and sweat until the stems are slightly tender, 10 to
1 . Render the bacon, if using, in a large sauce pot over

medium heat, about 10 minutes. Add the mirepoix
and garlic. Sweat the vegetables over medium-high
heat until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the roux;

blend well. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, and
sachet. Simmer at i85F/85C until the tomatoes are
cooked through, about 25 minutes.
3 . Remove and discard the sachet. Puree the soup until

it is smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return
it to a simmer slowly over medium-low heat and sim
mer for 8 to 10 minutes to adjust the consistency.
4 . The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly

cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85F/85C for ser

vice. Add the cream and season with salt and pepper.
15 minutes.
3 . Add the veloute and bring to a simmer at i85F/85C.

Add the sachet. Reduce the heat and simmer until
the vegetables are fully cooked, about 35 minutes. Stir
frequently and skim as needed.
4 . Cut the reserved florets into bite-size pieces, keeping

their shape, and blanch in boiling salted water until
tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Shock the florets in an ice bath
and reserve for service.
5 . Discard the sachet. Puree the soup until smooth.

Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and discard any
fibers remaining in the strainer. The soup is ready to
finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger
ated for later service.
6 . Return the soup to a simmer at i 85F/85C. Add the
cream and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Heat
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv
the broccoli florets in simmering stock or water and
ing with croutons.
garnish individual portions or the entire batch. Serve

in heated bowls or cups.
NOTES: If not using bacon, sweat the mirepoix and garlic in

3 f l o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil.
If using a blender to puree the soup, the finished color
w ill be s lightly more orange than a soup pureed using
another method.
Cream o f Tom ato Soup w ith Rice: Add 1 lb /4 54 g cooked
long-grain w hite rice to the tom ato soup im m ediately
before serving.
Cream o f Asparagus (Creme A rg e n te u il): Replace the

broccoli w ith an equal amount o f asparagus spears,
reserving some o f the asparagus tip s fo r garnishing.
Cream o f Celery (Creme de C e leri): Replace the broccoli
w ith an equal amount o f celery or celeriac. Garnish with
blanched small-dice celery.
ch a p te r 14 S O U P S
339
Wisconsin Cheddar
Cheese and Beer Soup
New England-Style
Clam Chowder
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
fI o z/1 8 0 mL clarified butter
60 chowder clams, scrubbed
o z/1 7 0 g minced onions
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255), or as

needed, or water to make clam broth
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced mushrooms

8
o z/2 2 7 g salt pork, minced to a paste
o z/2 2 7 g minced onions
3 o z/8 5 g rough-cut celery

1
o z/2 8 g minced garlic
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice celery

1 lb /4 5 4 g russet potatoes, peeled, small dice
8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL beer (lager or brown ale)

2 lb /9 0 7 g grated Cheddar cheese

'A o z/1 4 g dry mustard

V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed
f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot
1 ts p /5 mL hot sauce, or as needed

1 ts p /5 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed

2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
V A tsp /2.5 g ground black pepper, or as needed
GARNISH
8
o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965), made from rye bread
1 . Steam the clams in the stock or water in a covered

rondeau until they open, about 10 minutes.
2.. Decant and strain the broth through a filter or dou

ble layer of cheesecloth and reserve. Pick the clams
1 . Melt the butter in a large soup pot or rondeau over me

dium heat. Sweat the onions, mushrooms, celery, and
garlic until the onions are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and heat to i85F/85C. Whisk in the

roux and thicken. Simmer at i85F/85C until the soup
has good flavor and a velvety texture, 30 minutes.
3 . Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the

solids. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.

Shortly before service, add the beer and cheese and
continue to heat the soup gently until the cheese
melts. Do not boil.
5 . Blend the dry mustard with enough water to make a
3 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot or rondeau

over medium heat until the fat has melted and the
meat is crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the onions and
celery and sweat until translucent, 6 to 7 minutes.
4 . Combine the reserved clam broth with enough ad

ditional stock or water to make 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid.
Add the liquid to the aromatics and bring to a sim
mer. Gradually add the roux to the stock and whisk
to incorporate completely, working out any lumps.
5 . Simmer at i85F/85C for 30 minutes, skimming the

surface as necessary.
6 . Add the potatoes and sachet. Simmer until the pota
toes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. The soup is ready
paste. Add the mustard mixture and the cream to the
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig
soup and bring the soup back to a simmer. Adjust the
erated for later service.
consistency with stock, if necessary. Season the soup

with hot sauce, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper.
6 . Serve in heated bowls or cups with the croutons on
the side.
340
and chop and reserve the meat.
7 . Return the soup to a simmer for service. Add the

reserved clams and cream. Season the soup with salt,
pepper, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Serve
in heated bowls or cups.
in
Conch Chowder
Corn Chowder
Makes l gal/3 . 8 4 L
Makes
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg conch meat, ground

through a '/8-in/3-m m die
gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
^
-i
o z/2 2 7 g salt pork or bacon, minced
o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onions
o z/1 7 0 g small-dice celery
n>
n
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

^
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
4o z/11 3g sm a ll-d ic eg re en p e p p ers
2 lb /9 0 7 g medium-dice Standard or
White Mirepoix (page 243)
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice red peppers
1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonwaxy potatoes,

peeled, medium dice
2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Fish Stock (page 255)
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and
1
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste

2
bay leaves
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonstarchy
potatoes, peeled, small dice
1
bay leaf
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot

2
tbsp / 2
2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /3 g chopped fresh thyme
2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce
Salt, as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce
1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medi1 . Combine the conch with the lemon juice in a large
nonreactive bowl and marinate for 30 minutes.
2 . Melt the butter in a large sauce pot over medium

heat. Add the mirepoix and sweat until the vegetables
are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the Scotch bonnet
and potatoes and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer.
3 . Add the water, stock, marinated conch, tomato

products, bay leaves, and thyme and simmer at
um-low heat until the lean portions of salt pork are

slightly crisp, about 6 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, and peppers and sweat until

softened, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer at i85F/85C.

Whisk in the blond roux, working out any lumps.
Simmer until lightly thickened.
4 . Puree half of the corn and whisk it into the soup.
i85F/85C until the potatoes are very tender and
Add the potatoes, the remaining whole corn, and the
the soup is well flavored, about 25 minutes.
bay leaf, and simmer at i 85F/85C until the corn
4 . Season with salt. Pepper may not be needed because

Scotch bonnet peppers are extremely hot. Remove
and potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
5 . Add the cream and stir to combine. Heat just until
and discard the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or
it begins to simmer, about 10 minutes. Remove and
cups.
discard the bay leaf. The soup is ready to finish now,

or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later
service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a sim
mer. Season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, and
Worcestershire sauce and serve in heated bowls or
cups.
341
Pacific Seafood
Chowder
Makes l gal/3.84 L
4 . Mix the cornstarch with some water to the consis

tency of heavy cream and add this to the soup. Add
enough slurry to produce a light body. Cook until the
soup thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove the sachet.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL dry white wine

8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL water
1 Sachet dEpices (see page 2 4 1) containing

B cloves crushed garlic; 1 o z/2 8 g peeled
ginger; 4 stalks lemongrass, cut into 1-in /
3-cm pieces; and 5 kaffir lime leaves
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer

at i85F/85C. Add the diced fish and the shrimp and
cook until the seafood is cooked through, about 5
minutes. Add the roasted chayote and heat through.
6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt.
2 q t/1 .9 2 L clam juice

I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L coconut milk
8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot
2 o z/5 7 g Red Curry Paste (page 370)

1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, medium-diced taro root
chayote, pitted and cut into medium dice
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
1
o z/2 8 g cornstarch
1 lb /4 5 4 g firm-fleshed fish, such as sea

bass, skinned, cut into medium dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (2 1 /2 6 count), peeled,
deveined, cut into medium dice
Juice of 1 lemon
GARNISH
4 fI o z/1 4 g basil leaves, chiffonade
1 . In a large nonreactive pot, combine the wine, water,

and sachet and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the clam
juice, coconut milk, and cream; return to a simmer
at i85F/85C and mix in the curry paste.
2 . Add the taro and simmer until tender, about 15

minutes.
3 . Meanwhile, toss the chayote with the oil and season

with salt and black pepper. Roast the diced chayote
in a 35oF/i77C oven until tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Reserve.
342

ing with basil.
Manhattan^Style Clam
Chowder
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Puree o f Lentil Soup

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8
o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

10 lb /4.54 kg chowder clams, washed
3 o z/8 5 g salt pork, minced to a paste
2 lb /9 0 7 g brown lentils, rinsed and sorted

4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice leeks, white parts only

2
tbsp / 2
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice green peppers

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
12 o z/3 4 0 g russet potatoes, peeled,
cut into medium dice

GARNISH
bay leaf
o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
thyme sprig
o z/2 8 g chopped chervil
oregano sprig
1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, peeled,

seeded, cut into medium dice
Salt, as needed
1 . Render the bacon in a large stockpot over low heat

until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp,
about 10 minutes. Reserve the bits of bacon for gar
nish or leave in the soup for additional flavor.

/2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce
V 2 ts p /2.50 mL Worcestershire sauce
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g Old Bay seasoning
2 .. Add the mirepoix and cook over medium heat until

tender and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
3 . Add the lentils and allow them to lightly toast before

adding the stock. Add the stock and sachet to the
pot. Bring to a simmer at i85F/85C and skim as
1 . In a covered pot, steam the clams in 1 gal/3.84 L water

until they open, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the
4 . Simmer the soup until the lentils are tender, 30 to
clam meat from the shells; chop and reserve. Strain
40 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the
and reserve the clam broth.
sachet. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medium
5 . Strain the mixture, reserving the soup broth. Puree
heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly
the solids in a food mill or with an immersion blend
crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the mirepoix, leeks, and
er. Add enough of the reserved soup broth to achieve
peppers and sweat until softened, about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute, until aromatic.

Add the reserved clam broth, potatoes, bay leaf,
thyme, and oregano and simmer over medium to medium-low heat until all of the vegetables are tender,
about 25 minutes.
4 . Remove and discard the herbs. Add the tomatoes.

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer at

i85F/85C. Degrease the soup. Add the reserved clams
and season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, Worces
tershire sauce, and Old Bay. Serve in heated bowls or
cups.
344
needed.
6 . Season with lemon juice. The soup is ready to finish

now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
later service.
7 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85F/85C for ser

vice and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve
in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving
with the reserved bacon, croutons, and chervil.
Puree o f Split Pea

Soup
Makes l gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
8
11*
M akes 1 g a l/ 1 .8 4 L
rD
3 o z /8 5 g small-dice salt pork

8

1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green split peas
o z/2 2 7 g nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, large dice
ham hock
bay leaf
tbsp / 2
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, or as needed
o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard or
2
Caribbean-Style
Puree o f Black Bean
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans, soaked overnight

V / 2 g al/5 .7 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
smoked ham hocks
I
5 ' / 2 f I o z /1 6 5 mL dry sherry
2
GARNISH
1 lb /4 5 4 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Render the bacon in a large sauce pot over medium

crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bits of bacon
and reserve for garnish.
V 2 tsp / 1 g ground allspice

Salt, as needed
GARNISH
13 o z/3 6 9 g sour cream
o z/1 5 6 g peeled, seeded, and
5 '/ 2
o z /2 8 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
2 . Add the mirepoix to the rendered fat and saute until

the onions become transparent, 8 to 10 minutes.
* Add the garlic and saute for another minute until
fragrant; do not brown the garlic.
3 . Add the stock, split peas, potatoes, ham hock, and

bay leaf and bring to a simmer at i85F/85C. Sim
mer the soup until the peas are tender, about 45
minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Remove the ham hock
and dice the lean meat, if desired, and reserve for
finishing.
4 . Puree the soup until smooth using a food mill or

immersion blender. Add back the ham hock meat,
1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over low

crisp, about 10 minutes.
2 . Add the mirepoix and sweat until the onions are

3 . Add the beans, stock, sachet, and ham hocks. Sim

mer until the beans are very tender, 3 to 4 hours.
4 . Remove the ham hocks and dice the lean meat to

add as garnish, if desired.
5 . Puree half of the beans using a food mill or food

processor. Return the bean puree to the soup. Stir in
if desired. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
the sherry and allspice. Season with salt and pepper.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
at i85F/85C. Serve it in heated bowls or cups and
garnish each serving with croutons and bacon, if
ing with the diced ham hock meat, if using, the sour
desired.
cream, tomatoes, and green onions.
Puree o f Yellow S p lit Pea Soup: Replace the green sp lit

peas w ith an equal amount o f yellow sp lit peas.
345
Senate Bean Soup
Potage Garbure
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight
I V 2 g al/5.76 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

2
smoked ham hocks
2 ft o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

6
o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onions
o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice carrots
o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice celery
garlic cloves, minced
2 o z/5 7 g ground salt pork

2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil
8
o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped onions
o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped carrots
12 o z/3 4 0 g finely chopped leeks,

white and pale green parts
12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced nonwaxy potatoes
12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced green cabbage

12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes
6
to
drops hot sauce

Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed

GARNISH
1 . Combine the beans, stock, and ham hocks in a stock-
o z /2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
pot. Simmer over medium heat until the beans are

almost tender, about 2 hours.
2 . Strain the broth and reserve. Reserve the beans

separately. Dice the lean meat of the ham hocks and
reserve for garnish.
1 . Render the salt pork with the olive oil in a soup pot
over medium heat until the fat melts from the pork,
12 to 15 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, carrots, and leeks and stir until the
3 . Heat the oil in the same stockpot. Add the onions,
vegetables are coated with fat. Cover the pan and
carrots, and celery and sweat over medium heat
smother over low heat, stirring from time to time,
until the onions are translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add
until the vegetables are tender and translucent, 10 to
the garlic and saute until it is aromatic, about 1
12 minutes.
minute.
4 . Return the beans and broth to the pot. Add the
3 . Add the stock, potatoes, cabbage, and tomatoes and

simmer over low to medium heat until the potatoes
sachet. Simmer at i85F/85C until the beans are
are just starting to fall apart, 20 to 25 minutes. Skim
tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove and discard the
the surface of the soup as needed during cooking
sachet.
time. Taste the soup periodically to monitor the
5 . Puree half of the soup in a blender or with a food

mill. Combine the puree and reserved ham with the
remaining soup. Adjust the consistency with addi
cooking time and adjust seasoning as the soup sim

mers.
4 . Puree the soup to a coarse texture. The soup is ready
tional broth or water if necessary. The soup is ready


Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper.
over low heat until heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.
Season with hot sauce, salt, and pepper.
ing with a crouton.
in
Vichyssoise
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream, hot
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined
CD
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g finely chopped leeks, white parts only
o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped onions
3 lb /1.36 kg nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, medium dice

1
tbsp / 1
g salt, plus more as needed
V 2 t s p / l g Old Bay seasoning

V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed
V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry sherry
1 . Rinse the shrimp shells thoroughly and drain.

Saute the shrimp shells in 2 oz/57 g f the butter in
a medium stockpot over medium-high heat until
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL half-and-half
the shells turn bright pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove
2 o z/5 7 g snipped chives
the shells from the pot and reserve.
2 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions.

1 . Heat the oil in a medium stockpot. Add the leeks
and onions and sweat over medium-low heat until
2 . Increase the heat to high. Add the potatoes, stock,

sachet, 1 tablespoon salt, and white pepper. Bring to
a full boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and sim
Saute until the onions are translucent, about 2

minutes.
3 . Add the garlic, paprika, and tomato paste and cook

until there is a sweet, cooked-tomato aroma, about
2 minutes.
4 . Deglaze with the brandy and reduce until nearly
mer until the potatoes are soft, about 30 minutes.
dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Add back the cooked shrimp
Remove and discard the sachet.
shells.
3 . Puree the soup in batches using a blender or food

mill. Rapidly cool the soup and refrigerate until
service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, stir in the half-andhalf and chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and white
pepper. Serve in chilled bowls or cups.
5 . Add the veloute and simmer over medium-low

heat, until the bisque is intensely rust colored and
has thickened slightly, about 45 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper as the bisque simmers.
6 . Strain the bisque through a fine-mesh strainer, or
use the wringing method (see page 329).
7 . Return the bisque to a simmer and add the cream.

8 . Cut the shrimp into small dice and saute in the
Shrimp Bisque
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
remaining 1 oz/28 g butter over medium-high heat,

until cooked through and pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add
the shrimp to the bisque and simmer for 5 minutes.
9 . Add the Old Bay, hot sauce, and Worcestershire

1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g shrimp shells
3 o z/8 5 g butter
1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, minced
1
sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap
idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
10. To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.

Add the sherry and serve in heated bowls or cups.
tbsp / 6 g paprika, or as needed

3 f I o z/9 0 mL brandy
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish or Shrimp Veloute (page 2 9 4)
Salt, as needed
347
Lobster Bisque
8 . Whisk in the roux and cook until the soup thick

ens, 10 minutes more, stirring out any lumps.
( B is q u e
d e
H o m a r d )
9 . Add the cream. Reduce at a simmer to the desired

consistency. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon
M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L
juice. Pass it through a strainer again, if necessary.

3 flo z /9 0 m L o liv e o il
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice onions
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice carrots

Add the tarragon and serve in heated bowls or
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice celery

8
cups.
o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced leeks
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg small-dice fennel

6
garlic cloves, crushed
4 o z /1 13 g tomato paste
Chicken and Shrimp

Gumbo
2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL brandy
M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L
lb 5 o z/2.86 kg lobster shells,

cleaned, roasted, and crushed

3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255)
r / 2 q t / 1 .4
L water
4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, small dice
4 o z /1 13 g Italian rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)
o z/2 2 7 g boneless, skinless

chicken breast, medium dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice green peppers
Salt, as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice celery
Cayenne, as needed
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
3 'A o z/9 9 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
o z/2 8 g tarragon leaves, chopped
o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped garlic
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced okra
1 . Heat the oil in a large soup pot or rondeau over

medium heat. Add the onions and sweat for 5
o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and

minutes. Add the carrots, celery, leeks, fennel, and
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, baked until dark brown
garlic and sweat for 5 minutes longer.
2 . Add the lobster shells and sweat until the shells are
very fragrant, about 10 minutes.
3 . Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it

turns a rusty brown color.
bay leaves
tsp / 2 g dried oregano
tsp / 2 g onion powder
4 . Add the brandy and flambe.
V 2 tsp / 1 g dried thyme
5 . Add the wine and reduce it by half, about 5 minutes.
V i t s p /l g dried basil
6 . Add the stock and water and bring to a boil. Re
Salt, as needed
duce to a simmer, add the rice, and cook, covered,

until the rice is very soft, about 45 minutes.
7 . Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer,

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped
13 o z/3 6 9 g cooked long-grain white rice
return it to a clean pot, and bring it to a boil.

1 tb sp /9 g file powder
1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot over
Gazpacho Andaluz
medium-high heat and add the andouille. Saute, stir

ring occasionally, until the sausage starts to become
( A r id a lu c ia n
a>
firm, about 1 minute.
2 . Add the chicken and sear until it begins to lose its

raw appearance, 2 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the onions, peppers, celery, jalapenos, green

onions, garlic, okra, and tomatoes. Saute, stirring
occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and the
onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
4 . Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring con
n
1*
G a z p a c h o ,
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
lb /3.63 kg peeled, seeded, and
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced green peppers

1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced, peeled cucumbers
stantly. Add the stock and stir constantly to work out
garlic cloves, crushed
any lumps.
f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
5 . Add the bay leaves, oregano, onion powder, thyme,

basil, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes.
6 . Add the shrimp and rice and simmer for 2 minutes
rt>
m
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil

Salt, as needed
more. Whisk in the file powder. Be sure to blend

well, and do not allow the soup to return to a boil.
GARNISH
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice tomatoes
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers

4 o z /1 1 3 g small-dice cucumbers
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.

Remove the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or
cups.
1 . Combine the tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, garlic,

vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive con
tainer. Cover, refrigerate, and marinate overnight.
2 . Puree the marinated ingredients in a blender or food

mill, working in batches if necessary. Strain through
a fine-mesh sieve. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper.
3 . Chill the soup thoroughly.

4 . Serve the soup in chilled bowls or cups and garnish
each serving with diced tomatoes, peppers, and
cucumbers.
349
Ham Bone and Co Hard

Greens Soup
Chinese Hot and Sour

Soup (Suan La Tang)
Makes l gal/3.84
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced salt pork
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
3A o z/21 g thinly sliced green onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice celery
o z/2 2 7 g medium-ground pork butt
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour
o z/2 8 g black fungus, soaked, short julienne
I V 2 o z/4 3 g lily buds, soaked, short julienne
3 ham hocks
o z/2 2 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice firm tofu
1 lb /4 5 4 g trimmed collard greens, chopped, blanched
3Yz q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark soy sauce
fl o z/2 4 0 mL rice vinegar
tb s p /lO g s a lt
1 . Render the salt pork in a stockpot over medium heat

until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp,
5 to 7 minutes.
2 . Add the butter, onions, and celery, and sweat until

the onions are translucent, about 6 minutes.
3 . Add the flour and cook for several minutes to make a

pale roux, stirring frequently.
4 . Gradually add the chicken stock, whisking out any
3/4 o z/21 g ground black pepper

2 'A o z/6 4 g cornstarch
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil
GARNISH
1
o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions
lumps.
5 . Add the ham hocks and sachet, bring to a simmer,
1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or soup pot over
and cook for 1 hour. Add the greens to the soup. Sim
medium-high heat. Add the ginger and green onions
mer until tender, about 30 minutes.
and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
6 . Remove the hocks and sachet. Remove the lean meat

from the hocks and cut it into small dice. Return
the diced meat to the soup and season with salt and
pepper. The soup is ready to serve now, or it may be

Serve in heated bowls or cups.
2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until it is cooked through, 4

to 5 minutes.
3 . Add the black fungus, lily buds, and cabbage and stirfry until the cabbage is tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Add the tofu, stock, soy sauce, vinegar, salt, and pep
per and bring the soup to a boil.
5 . Mix the cornstarch and water together. Slowly add

the slurry to the boiling soup, stirring constantly.
Slowly stir the eggs into the soup.
6 . Hold hot, but do not boil.
7 . Add the sesame oil. Serve in heated bowls or cups

and garnish each serving with green onions.
350
C/3
Spicy Beef Soup
U . Add the green onions, red pepper paste, soybean
paste, soy sauce, cabbage, and reserved beef. Return
a n g
Makes
gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
the soup to a boil, stirring occasionally.
In a separate heavy skillet, heat the sesame oil over

medium heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until aro
7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg beef bones

1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g beef flank, trimmed, fa t reserved
1 gal 16 fl o z/4 .3 2 L water

1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, peeled and quartered
1 o z/2 8 g ginger, peeled, cut into '/8 -in /3 -m m slices
i-i
CD
n
1*
matic, about 30 seconds. Add the bean sprouts and

stir-fry until cooked, but still firm, about 3 minutes.
n>
C/3
Add the cooked sprouts to the soup.

8 . Add the eggs to the soup and stir very gently to cre
ate long ribbons. Taste and season with salt and pep
per. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
2 o z/5 7 g beef fat

1
o z/2 8 g all-purpose flour
tbsp / 6 g thinly sliced green onions
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Korean red pepper paste

8
fI o z/2 4 0 mL Korean soybean paste
1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce

10 o z/2 8 4 g green cabbage chiffonade
V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil
3 o z/8 5 g bean sprouts, cut into l-in /3 -c m lengths
2
eggs, lightly beaten
Salt, as needed
1 . Blanch the beef bones in a large stockpot. Drain and

rinse.
2 .. Return the bones to the stockpot and add the beef

and water. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer.
Simmer over medium-low heat until the beef is ten
der, about 1 hour 15 minutes. When the beef is ten
der, remove it from the pot and plunge it into cold
water for 15 minutes. Pull the beef into i-in/3-cm
strips. Refrigerate, covered.
3 . Add the onions and ginger to the broth and sim

mer over medium-low heat for about 1 hour. At this
point, the broth can be strained, rapidly cooled, and
refrigerated for service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, skim the broth and

return it to a boil.
5 . Render the beef fat in the reserved fat, browning

slightly. Strain the melted fat and transfer 2 tbsp/30
mL to a stockpot. Add the flour to create a roux, stir
ring over low heat for 5 minutes. Gradually add the
hot broth, stirring frequently, and bring to boil.
351
Miso Soup
Makes l gal/3.84 L
V 2 o z/1 4 g dried wakame seaweed
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266)
fl o z/2 4 0 mL miso (use aka [red] miso for
summer and shiro [white] for winter)
8
Thai Chicken Soup

w ith Coconut Milk and
Galangal
^
Q.
T3
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
c
"d
rD
cn
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice tofu

3 'A o z/9 2 g minced shallots
GARNISH
V A o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
1 . Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes.
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
2 o z/5 7 g minced lemongrass
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Thai chili paste
Drain it, pour boiling water over it, and plunge it
V A o z/4 3 g galangal, sliced 'A in/ 6 mm thick
into very cold water (no ice). Drain well. Trim off
18 kaffir lime leaves, bruised
any tough parts. Chop the remaining seaweed roughly
V A q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
(V2 in/i cm maximum). Wrap in doubled rinsed

cheesecloth and twist to extract excess moisture.
2 . Place the dashi in a large stockpot or wok. Temper
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar, or as needed
6
f I o z/1 8 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed
the miso into the dashi gradually, whisking
2 q t/1 .9 2 L coconut milk
constantly to combine completely.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken

thighs, cut into thin strips
3 . Bring the dashi to a simmer, add the tofu and
V 2 o z/1 8 4 g drained canned straw mushrooms, halved
chopped wakame and simmer for 1 minute. The
soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, seeded, and medium-dice tomatoes

ing with green onions.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed

1
tbsp / 1
GARNISH
40 cilantro sprigs
1 . Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat and add
the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and chili paste. Cook
until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
2 . Add the galangal, lime leaves, stock, sugar, fish

sauce, and coconut milk. Bring to a boil, reduce the
heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.
3 . Strain the broth into a pot and discard the solids.

Add the chicken, mushrooms, and tomatoes. Sim
mer until the chicken is cooked, 3 to 5 minutes.
4 . Add the lime juice and salt and adjust seasoning with
sugar and fish sauce. The soup is ready to finish now,
or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated.

ing with cilantro sprigs.
353
Thai Hot and Sour

Soup (Tom Yum Kung)
Wonton Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
WONTONS
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
o z/2 2 7 g medium-grind pork
o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Red Curry Paste (page 370)
1
1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (3 1 /3 6 count), peeled,

deveined, halved lengthwise; reserve the shells
tsp / 6 g minced ginger
1 tbsp / 8 g minced Thai bird chiles
1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
4 stalks lemongrass, bruised, cut

into 3-in/8-cm lengths
V2 ts p /1 .5 g salt, or as needed
1
1 o z/2 8 g galangal, sliced V b in /3 mm thick

12
kaffir lime leaves, bruised
14 o z/3 9 7 g plum tomatoes, cut into
tb sp /1 5g su g a r
V* tsp /0.5 g ground white pepper, or as needed

48 wonton wrappers, 3-in/8-cm squares
wedges each
1
egg, slightly beaten
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g drained canned straw

mushrooms, halved
SOUP
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable or peanut oil
o z/2 8 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger
V/2 o z/4 3 g cilantro leaves
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

2
I . Heat the oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat.

Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute;
do not let the paste brown.
2 . Add the reserved shrimp shells, chiles, stock, lem
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL dark soy sauce
'A tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed

Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed
6
o z/1 7 0 g stemmed spinach
ongrass, galangal, and lime leaves. Simmer for 10
4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, f ine julienne
minutes.
OMELET
3 . Strain the broth into a clean pot and discard the sol
ids. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, fish sauce, and
sugar and bring to a boil.
4 . Mix in the lime juice and adjust seasoning with fish

sauce. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be
5 . Poach the shrimp in some of the broth until they are

opaque and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove
the shrimp from the liquid and cool on a sheet pan.
(The poaching liquid can be added back to the soup.)
Toss the cooled shrimp with the cilantro and reserve
for service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add
the shrimp and cilantro mixture to a heated bowl or
cup and ladle the broth on top. Serve immediately.
STOCKS, S A U CES, AND S O U P S
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable or peanut oil

4 eggs, beaten
1 . To make the wonton filling, combine the pork, cab

bage, green onions, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil,
salt, sugar, and pepper and mix well with a spoon
or work by hand until thoroughly combined. Keep
chilled until ready to fill the wontons.
2 . To make the wontons, spoon 1 tsp/5 mL of the filling

mixture into the center of each wrapper and brush
the edges of the wrapper lightly with the beaten egg.
Fold the wonton in half to make a triangle and then
overlap the points, pressing them in place. Keep
wontons covered as they are being prepared.
ga
3 . Cook the wontons in batches in boiling salted water

until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and re
serve, covered.
o z/2 2 7 g escaroie, finely chopped
O)
o z/2 2 7 g tubettini pasta
n
i*
and saute, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1
Olive oil, as needed
minute.
l 3/ f o z/5 0 g sliced garlic
5 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Season with soy
i- i
4 . To make the soup, heat the oil in a soup pot over

medium-high heat. Add the green onions and ginger
Salt, as needed
"d
o>
GARNISH
sauce, salt, and pepper. The soup is ready to finish

later service.
20 Croutons (page 965)

V / i o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan
6 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.

Add the spinach and blanch for 30 seconds. Drain
1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy sauce pot over medium-
and rinse in cold water until chilled. Drain again,
high heat and add the pancetta. Cook until lightly
squeeze out the excess water, and chop coarsely.
browned, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Re
Reserve.
move the pancetta with a slotted spoon and drain on
7 . To make the omelet, heat the oil in a medium sauteuse or omelet pan. Cook the eggs, stirring con
stantly, until they are set. Flatten the eggs into an
paper towels; reserve. Pour off and reserve all but 1

tbsp/15 mL of the fat.
2 . Reduce the heat to low, add the onion and shallot,
even layer and roll the omelet out of the pan. Allow
and cook until softened and slightly golden in color,
it to cool slightly and then cut into a fine julienne.
5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the drained beans, tomatoes, stock, sachet, and
Add the spinach, ham, and omelet. Simmer just long
cooked pancetta. Simmer until the beans are almost
enough to heat, about 2 minutes.
tender, about 1 hour.
9 . Reheat the wontons if necessary and place three in
4 . Add the carrot and cook until both the beans and
a heated bowl or cup. Ladle the hot soup over the
carrots are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt
wontons and serve at once.
and pepper and reserve warm. The soup is ready to

finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger
5 . Blanch the escaroie in boiling salted water about 1
Tuscan White Bean

and Escaroie Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
minute, shock in ice water, and reserve.

6 . Cook the tubettini to al dente in boiling salted water.
Shock in ice water, drain well, and toss lightly with
olive oil.

2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il
Brown the garlic in the reserved pancetta fat in a
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice pancetta
sauteuse over medium-high heat, 2 to 3 minutes.
o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onion
o z/2 8 g minced shallot
Add to the soup. Add the escaroie and pasta and

cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Adjust
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried navy beans,

soaked overnight and drained
1
seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in heated

bowls or cups and garnish each serving with crou
tons and grated Parmesan.
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g canned tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 V i q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

4 o z /1 13 g small-dice carrot
355
Vegetable Soup,
Emilia-Romagna
Style (Minestrone alia
Emiliana)
Makes l gal/3.84 L
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced onions
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice celery
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g russet potatoes,
peeled, cut into small dice
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice zucchini
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice green beans
2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded savoy cabbage
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Brodo (page 266)
2 pieces Parmesan rind, 3-in/8-cm squares, cleaned
1 lb /4 5 4 g canned plum tomatoes, with juices
Salt, as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 g Great Northern or navy
beans, cooked (see page 1161)
GARNISH
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil and

remove the Parmesan rinds, if desired. Taste and
season with salt and pepper. Add the beans and serve
H i
with grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
^
I
T 3
Minestrone
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 o z/5 7 g salt pork, minced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g paysanne-cut onion
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut celery
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut carrot
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green pepper
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green cabbage
V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
1 lb /4 5 4 g tomato concasse
Salt, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas (see page 1161)
6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked black-eyed peas (see page 1161)
6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked ditalini (see page 815)
GARNISH
5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan, or as needed

4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
1 . Render the salt pork with the oil in a large sauce pot
over medium heat until the fat has melted but the
1 . Melt the butter with the oil in a large soup pot over
low heat. Add the onions and sweat until wilted and
meat has not browned, about 10 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, carrots, peppers, cabbage,
soft, about 15 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for
and garlic and sweat until the onions are translucent
3 minutes.
about 15 minutes.
2 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence, al
3 . Add the tomato concasse, stock, salt, and pepper.
lowing each to soften before adding the next: celery,
Simmer until the vegetables are tender, 25 to 30
potatoes, zucchini, green beans, and cabbage. Do not
minutes. Do not overcook.
let the vegetables brown.
3 . Add the brodo, cheese rind, and tomatoes with their

juices. Partially cover and cook at a low simmer until
the vegetables are just cooked, 20 to 25 minutes. Add
4 . Add the chickpeas, black-eyed peas, and ditalini.

cooled and stored for later service.
more broth as necessary. The soup is ready to finish
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish indi
vidual portions with grated Parmesan.
later service.
357
meats, poultry
PART 4
mise en place for

bieats, poultry,
sh, and shellfish
Bringing out the best flavor in meats, poultry, and fish is a skill that
seems to come naturally to a professional chef. Another hallmark of the
professional is an ability to cook meats, poultry, and fish to the perfect
degree of doneness. These skills develop through concentration, practice,
and a basic understanding of seasoning and cooking techniques.
CHAPTER
15
dding
dish
sea so n in g s
the
fu l l e s t
at th e
proper
po ssible
b len d s of h erbs and spices

as
o n io n s
g a r lic
m e a n t to e n h a n c e
fr esh
fla v o r
fla v o r
,an
or
point
. Th e
in t h e
a r r a y
cooking
of
pr o c ess
s e a so n in g s
d m a rin a d es that m a y include o ils
dried
h e r b s
not detract
or
fro m
spices
. In
e v e r y
or o v e r w h e lm
is k e y
r u n s
,a
c a s e
the
to
fro m
cid s
,an
t h o u g h
dish
giving
sim ple
finished
to
c o m ple x
d a ro m atics such
s e a so n in g s
are
. LI Q. UI D M A R I N A D E S
m a y
C H A N G E T H E T E X T U R E O F F O O D S IN A D D I T I O N T O F L A V O R I N G T H E M .
seasonings
S a lt and pepper are take n so much fo r gra n te d th a t some beginning cooks fa il to apply
these tw o seasonings ea rly enough durin g cooking o r in enough q u a n tity to bring o u t the
b e st fla v o r in cooked fo o d s. S a lt and pepper added b e fo re cooking b ring o u t th e in he rent
fla v o rs in foo ds. If these seasonings are added only a fte r th e cooking is com plete, th e sa lt
and pepper may ta ke on to o much sig nifica nce in th e fin is h e d dishs flavo r. It is generally
b e tte r to apply s a lt and pepper separately. Using your fin g e rtip s to apply s a lt and pepper
is a good w ay to c o n tro l th e am ount added and to apply a m ore even coat.
S a lt and p e pp er are fun dam e ntal, b u t blends th a t com bine various spices, herbs, and
o th e r a ro m a tics can cre a te a p a rtic u la r fla v o r p ro file . Like s a lt and pepper, th e y may be
ap plied d ire c tly to raw m eat, p o u ltry, o r fis h . To in te n s ify th e fla v o r o f seeds and spices,
to a s t the m e ith e r on th e s to v e to p o r in a m od era te oven ju s t b e fo re grinding. Be sure to
pay close a tte n tio n . They can go fro m p e rfe c tly to a s te d to scorched very quickly.
To to a s t seeds o r spices in the oven, spread them o u t on a dry sheet pan in a m oderate
oven ju s t u n til a plea sant arom a is apparent. S tir o fte n to ensure even browning. Remove
im m e d ia te ly and tra n s fe r to a fre s h pan o r p la te to cool.
To to a s t spices and seeds on th e stove to p, spread them in a shallow layer in a preheated
dry saute pan and toss, shake, o r s w irl th e pan u n til a rich, p e n e tra tin g aroma arises. Trans
fe r them to a cool pan to avoid scorching.
Fresh herbs and o th e r in g re d ie n ts such as garlic, fre s h o r dry bread crum bs, o r g ra te d
cheeses can be blended in to a paste or coating. They are som e tim es m oiste ne d w ith oil,
prepared m ustard, or sim ila r in g re d ie n ts to crea te a te x tu re th a t can easily adhere to a
fo o d o r make it easier to blend it in to a dish as a fin a l seasoning. Fresh herbs may have d irt
in th e ir leaves, so rinse th e m w e ll to rem ove sand o r g rit. Thorough d ryin g im proves th e f la
vo r and te x tu re o f the blend by pre ve n tin g w a te r clinging to th e herb's leaves fro m d ilu tin g
flavo r.
When a spice blend is used as a d ry rub (also called a d ry m arinad e) to coa t foo d, the
fo o d is re frig e ra te d a fte r a p p lica tio n to allow it to absorb th e fla vo rs. Very o fte n , these
rubs con tain some s a lt to help in te n s ify all the fla v o rs in th e dish. Dry rubs may be le ft on
th e fo o d durin g cooking o r th e y may be scraped away fir s t. Spice blends may also be added
to a ro m a tic veg etab le s as th e y cook during th e in itia l stages o f p re pa ring a braise o r stew.
The f a t used to cook th e veg etab le s releases th e fla v o r o f th e spices and in fu ses th e dish
m ore e ffe c tiv e ly than i f th e spice blend w ere s im p ly added to a sim m e ring dish. Barbecued
b e e f and Jamaican je rk e d po rk are classic exam ples o f dishes th a t may be prepared using
a dry rub. The Jerked Game Hens on page 4 5 9 are m arinate d using a paste to add flavor.
362
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
in
O)
P
M arinades g e ne rally contain one or m ore o f th e fo llo w in g : oil, acid, and aro m atics
(spices, herbs, and vegetables). Oils p ro te c t fo o d fro m in te nse heat du rin g cooking and
help hold o th e r fla v o rfu l in g re d ie n ts in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d . Acids, such as vinegar, wine,
yo g u rt, and c itru s ju ices, fla v o r th e fo o d and change its te x tu re . In some cases, acids firm
o r s tiffe n fo o d s (e.g., the lim e ju ice m arinade th a t "cooks" th e raw fis h in seviche).
M a rin a tin g tim e s vary according to the foo d's te x tu re . Tender or d e lica te fo o d s such as
QTQ
fis h o r p o u ltry b re a sts req uire less tim e . A to u g h e r c u t o f m ea t m ay be m arinate d f o r days.

The ra tio o f acid to o th e r in g re d ie n ts may also a ffe c t tim in g . H igh-acid m arinades, such
as th o se used to prepare seviche, produce th e desired e ffe c t w ith in 15 o r 20 m inutes o f
applying the m to a foo d. O thers are b e st le ft in co n ta c t w ith fo o d s f o r several hours, w hile
som e req uire several days.
Some m arinades are cooked b e fo re use; o th e rs are not. S om e tim es th e m arinade is
used to fla v o r an accom panying sauce o r may its e lf becom e a d ip p in g sauce. M arinades
th a t have been in co n ta c t w ith raw fo o d s can be used in these ways p ro vid ed th a t the y are
boile d f o r several m inutes f ir s t to k ill any linge rin g pathogens.
To use a liquid m arinade, add it to the in g re d ie n t and tu rn th e in g re d ie n t to coa t evenly.
Cover and m arinate, re frig e ra te d , fo r the length o f tim e in d ica te d by th e recipe, the ty p e o f
m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish, and th e desired resu lt. Brush o r scrape o f f excess m arinade b e fore
cooking and p a t dry, p a rtic u la rly if th e m arinade contains herbs o r o th e r aro m atics th a t
burn easily.
A cut o f m eat w ith the proper amount o f dry
Brush marinade on the ingredient or dip
rub.
the ingredient in the marinade to coat it

thoroughly.
Chapter 15 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
363
t u ffin g s
add
f la v o r
m o istu r e
an d
t e x t u r e
to
dish
. The
sim ple st
st u ffin g s
are
m ade
F R O M O N L Y H ER B S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D F RUI TS; O P T I O N S I N C L U D E Q U A R T E R E D OR H A L V E D O NI O NS ,
G AR LI C CL OVES, L E M O N S OR O RA N G ES , AN D SPRIG S OR B U N C H E S OF F R E S H HER BS. A L T H O U G H T H E S E
A R E U N CO M PL I CA TE D , T H E Y CA N HA V E A DRAM ATI C IMPACT ON FLAV OR.
stuffings
Bread and p a rtic u la rly fo rc e m e a t s tu ffin g s are m ore com plex op tion s. Prepare bread
s tu ffin g s by cubing or bre aking breads (pe asa nt-style, corn, French, o r Ita lia n -s ty le ) in to
sm all pieces. S tu ffin g s are generally fla v o re d w ith a ro m a tic veg etab le s (ty p ic a lly cooked
in some fa t to develop th e ir fla vo r), herbs, and spices. Some bread s tu ffin g s are m oistened
w ith sto cks o r bro th s. O ptio nally, eggs may be included to bind the s tu ffin g . A d d itio n a l
in gre die nts, such as cooked sausage, seafood, o r m ushroom s, may also be included.
Grain-based s tu ffin g s are based upon rice, barley, kasha, or o th e r grains th a t have been
cooked un til ju s t te n d e r (use the p ila f or sim m ering m ethods; see pages 761 and 754). Once
cooked, cool the grains com p le te ly b e fore the s tu ffin g is added to meat, poultry, or fish.
These s tu ffin g s can be seasoned, m oistened, and bound sim ilarly to bread-based s tu ffin g s.
F orcem eat s tu ffin g s can be prepared using any o f th e fo rc e m e a t m ethods o r recipes
included in C hapter 3 0 (pages 98 5 to 1011). These m ixtu re s m ust be handled c a re fu lly to
keep them w e ll chille d and w holesom e. Keep fo rc e m e a ts over an ice bath fo r q u a lity as w ell
as fo o d s a fe ty. They are o fte n used to f ill d e lica te cuts o f m eat and fis h (e.g., to spread
on to fis h fille ts b e fo re the y are ro lle d in to p a u p ie tte s and shallow-poached).
A n o th e r im p o rta n t co n sid eratio n w ith s tu ffin g s , along w ith fla v o r and q u a lity, is
p ro p e r handling f o r fo o d s a fe ty. Any s tu ffin g in g re d ie n ts th a t req uire p re coo king should
be cooled to below 40 F /4 C b e fo re th e y are com bined w ith o th e r s tu ffin g elem ents. The
fin ish e d m ix tu re should also be chilled w e ll b e fo re s tu ffin g . D uring fin a l cooking, s tu ffin g s
m ust reach th e m inim um safe te m p e ra tu re fo r the fo o d the y were s tu ffe d into. S tu ffin g
in a chicken b re a st or leg, fo r instance, m ust reach 165F /74C . For th is reason, whole
chickens and tu rke ys are ra re ly s tu ffe d in p ro fe ssio n a l kitchens. By the tim e the s tu ffin g
reaches the necessary te m p e ra tu re , th e m eat w ould be overcooked. Instead, s tu ffin g s
f o r w hole roa ste d birds are m ore o fte n baked sep ara te ly, in which case th e y are known as
dressings.
364
It
is p r e p a r e d b y c o a t i n g f o o d s w i t h
T H E M O S T E F F IC IE N T W A Y TO COAT A N U M B E R OF IT E M S , U S IN G A C O N S IS T E N T S E d U E N C E .
standard breading
Be sure to season th e fo o d b e fo re ap plying any coating.
Use flo u r and sim ila r meals o r powders, such as corn sta rch, to lig h tly dredge o r du st
standard breading
B r e a d i n g is d o n e t o c r e a t e a c r i s p c r u s t o n f r i e d f o o d s .
F L O U R , EG G W A S H , A N D B R E A D C R U M B S O R O T H E R C O A T I N G S . T h e S T A N D A R D B R E A D I N G P R O C E D U R E IS
fo o d s b e fo re th e y are dipped in an egg wash.

M ake an egg wash by blending eggs (whole, yolks, o r w h ite s) and w a te r or m ilk. A gen
eral guid eline calls fo r ab ou t 2 f l o z /6 0 mL m ilk f o r every 2 w hole eggs. Some item s are
dipp ed in to m ilk o r b u tte rm ilk b e fo re th e y are breaded, ra th e r than in egg wash.
Bread crum bs may be dry or fresh. Fresh w h ite bread crum bs (called m ie de pain in
French) are prepared by g ra tin g or p rocessing fin e ly te x tu re d bread, such as w h ite Pullman
bread w ith the cru s t rem oved. Dry bread crum bs (called chapelure in French) are prepared
fro m s lig h tly stale bread th a t may be fu rth e r d ried o r to a s te d in a w arm oven. Panko (Japa
nese bread crum bs) has becom e very popular. These breadcrum bs are coarser than sta n
dard bread crum bs and cre a te a crunchy c ru s t when frie d .
O th er in g re d ie n ts may be used in place o f o r in a d d itio n to bread crumbs. O ptions in
clude nuts, seeds, shredded coconut, c orn flake s, p o ta to flake s, shredded p o ta to e s, gra te d
cheese, ground spices, g a rlic paste, and chopped herbs.
B lo t th e fo o d dry w ith paper to w e ls and season as desired. Hold it in one hand and dip
it in flo u r. Shake o f f any excess flo u r and tra n s fe r th e fo o d to th e co n ta in e r o f egg wash.
S w itch hands, pick up th e foo d, and tu rn it if necessary to coa t it on all sides. T ransfer it to
the co n ta in e r o f bread crum bs. Use your dry hand to pack bread crum bs evenly around the
fo o d . Shake o f f any excess, then tra n s fe r the fo o d to a rack s e t over a holding tray. S tore
breaded fo o d in single layers, b u t if you m ust sta ck th e pieces, use pa rchm e nt or waxed
paper to separate th e layers.
D iscard any unused flo u r, egg wash, and bread crum bs. The presence o f juices, d rip
pings, or p a rtic le s o f the fo o d you ju s t coa ted w ill con ta m in a te the se pro du cts, m aking
the m unsafe f o r use w ith o th e r foo ds. Even s iftin g th e flo u r o r crum bs o r s tra in in g th e egg
wash w ill n o t be s u ffic ie n t to pre ven t cross co n ta m in a tio n and e lim in a te th e p o te n tia l fo r
fo o d -b o rn e illness.
Standard
breading
procedure
setup
365
general guidelines for determining

doneness in meats, poultry, and fish
Chefs m ust re ly n o t only on a th e rm o m e te r, b u t also on th e ir senses when cooking. Those
senses are p u t to a g re a te r te s t in d e te rm in in g doneness in a la m in ute cooking because
chefs can't a ctu a lly ta s te w h a t th e y are serving, th e w ay th e y can ta s te a soup o r a sauce.
Follow the se guidelines:
THE WAY IT SMELLS. As fo o d s near doneness, th e ir sm ells change. Arom as in te n s ify

and becom e easier to id e n tify . Each cooking m ethod produces a p a rtic u la r aroma.
G rilled and b ro ile d fo o d s should have a pleasing sm oky, charred arom a, in d ic a tin g rich,
deep flavo r.
THE WAY IT FEELS. Foods should be easy to cu t and chew. Touch fo o d s (w ith a gloved
fin g e r) to gauge resistance. The less w ell-done a piece o f m eat is, th e s o fte r and m ore
yie ld in g it w ill fe e l. Keep in m ind th a t te x tu re varies in d iffe re n t cuts o f meat.
THE WAY IT LOOKS. As m eat cooks, th e e x te rio r w ill change color. The in te rio r colors
also change, an im p o rta n t fa c to r when d e te rm in in g doneness in m eats cooked to cus
to m e r p re fe re n ce (rare, m edium , o r w ell done). If th e m ea t appears pale or even gray,
it has n o t been p ro p e rly cooked. The ju ice s th a t run fro m th e m eat, although m inim al,
should be th e c o rre c t color; th e ra re r th e m eat, th e re d d e r th e ju ice s w ill appear.
Appearance is also an im p o rta n t fa c to r in know ing when to tu rn a piece o f m eat. When
th e m eat's up pe r surface begins to appear ve ry m o is t (there may even be m o istu re beads),

the m eat should be turne d. Thin pieces may s ta rt to change co lo r a t th e edges when the y
are ready fo r turning.
The te m p e ra tu re s in th e fo llo w in g ta b le are fin a l re s tin g tem p e ra tu re s, based on the
USDA's safe cooking guidelines. M o st m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h need to be rem oved fro m the
pan, g rill, o r oven b e fore the y reach th e ir fin a l te m p e ra tu re to avoid overcooking and drying
out. Heat is retained by fo o d s even a fte r they are rem oved fro m th e heat source. That re
sidual heat causes th e fo o d to keep cooking, a phenomenon re fe rre d to as ca rryo ve r c oo k
ing. Internal te m p e ra tu re s taken ju s t as th e fo o d is rem oved fro m the oven and again a fte r
re s tin g w ill show a te m p e ra tu re d iffe re n c e o f anywhere fro m a fe w degrees to ten, fifte e n ,
or more. F actors th a t play a role in changes in in te rna l te m p e ra tu re during re stin g include
the mass o f the fo o d being prepared and the presence o r absence o f s tu ffin g and bones.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
FINAL RESTING
TEMPERATURE
DESCRIPTION
RARE
1 3 5 F /5 7 C
In te rio r appearance shiny
M EDIUM -R ARE
1 4 5 F /6 3 C
Deep red to pink
M EDIUM
1 6 0 F /7 1 C
Pink to lig h t pink
W ELL-DONE
1 7 0 F /7 7 C
L ig h t p in k w ith g ra yin g on th e edges f o r m edium -w ell; no pink f o r w e ll done
M ED IU M
1 6 0 F /7 1 C
M e a t opaque th ro u g h o u t; s lig h t give; ju ice s w ith

fa in t blush
W ELL-DONE
1 7 0 F /7 7 C
S lig h t give; ju ic e s cle ar
FRESH HAM
1 6 0 F /7 1 C
S lig h t give; ju ic e s w ith fa in t blush
PRECOOKED
(TO REHEAT)
1 4 0 F /6 0 C
M e a t a lre a d y fu lly cooked
WHOLE BIRDS
(CHICKEN, TURKEY, DUCK, GOOSE)
1 8 0 F /8 2 C
Leg easy to move in so cke t; ju ic e s w ith only

blush
POULTRY BREASTS
1 7 0 F /7 7 C
M e a t opaque; fir m th ro u g h o u t
PO ULTRYTHIGHS, LEGS, WINGS
1 8 0 F /8 2 C
M e a t releases fro m bone
STUFFING (COOKED ALONE OR IN

BIRD)
1 6 5 F /7 4 C
The appearance o f th e fu lly cooked s tu ffin g w ill

depend on th e recipe
TURKEY, CHICKEN
1 6 5 F /7 4 C
O paque th ro u g h o u t; ju ic e s cle ar
BEEF, VEAL, LAM B, PORK
1 6 0 F /7 1 C
DEGREE OF DONENESS
fre sh beef, ve al, a nd la m b
general guidelines
Temperatures and Descriptions of Degrees o f Doneness
fresh p o rk
h am
p o u ltr y
g ro u n d m e a t a n d m e a t m ix tu re s
Opaque, m ay have blush o f red; ju ice s opaque,

no red
seafood
FISH
1 4 5 F /6 3 C
S till m o ist; se p a ra te s e a sily in to segm ents. Or

u n til opaque
SHRIMP, LOBSTER, CRAB
S hells tu rn red, fle s h becom es p e arly opaque
SCALLOPS
Turn m ilk y w h ite o r opaque; firm
CLAM S, MUSSELS,
OYSTERS
S hells open
c h a p te r 15 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
367
Garam Masala
Barbecue Spice Mix
M akes 2 oz /5 7 g
M akes 2 oz /57 g
12 to 13 green or black cardamom pods
V2 o z/1 4 g Spanish paprika
4 ts p /7 g coriander seeds
V2 o z/1 4 g Chili Powder (recipe follows, or purchased)
4 ts p /8 g c u m in seeds
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
2 ts p /4 g ground cumin
V A
ts p /2.50 g cloves
ZV 2 ts p /5 g black peppercorns
'A
ts p /0.50 g ground nutmeg
2 or 3 bay leaves (optional)
2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r
l t s p / 2 g dry mustard
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /2 g dried thyme
1 ts p /2 g dried oregano
1 . Break open the cardamom pods and remove the

seeds. Combine the cardamom, coriander, cumin,
cinnamon, cloves, and peppercorns. Roast in a
1 ts p /3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)

V 2 ts p / 1 g cayenne
350F/i77C oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes.

Remove and cool slightly.
2.. Combine the roasted spices with the nutmeg and
Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con

tainer and use within 1 month.
bay leaves (if using) in a clean spice grinder and

grind to a medium-fine powder.
3 . Store in a tightly sealed container and use within 1

month.
Chili Powder
M akes 2 oz /57 g
/2
o z/4 3 g dried chiles, ground
Chinese Five-Spice
Powder
V2 o z/1 4 g ground cumin
M akes 2 oz/57 g
'A ts p /0.50 g ground coriander
5 star anise pods

2 or 3 cloves
V2 tsp /1 g garlic powder
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves (optional)
Combine all the spices including the cloves, if de
4'/2 ts p /9 g Szechwan peppercorns
sired. Store in a tightly sealed container and use
1 tb sp /7 g fennel seeds
within 1 month.
'A
cinnamon stick (about 1 in /3 cm cinnamon stick)
NOTES: Remove the seeds from the chiles if a less spicy

blend is desired.
1 . Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and

grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly
Some commercially prepared chili powder is actually a

blend sim ilar to this one.
sealed container and use within 1 month.
2 . When needed, measure the appropriate amount and

lightly toast the powder in a dry saute pan until you
can smell the aromas of the spices. Quickly transfer
the toasted powder to a cool pan or container so that
it does not continue to cook and burn.
This chili powder should not be confused w ith the

ground chiles called fo r in some recipes.
Fines Herbes
Makes
Makes
oz/s7 g
oz/ 5 7 g
V A o z/4 3 g cumin seeds
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped chervil leaves
V 2 o z/1 4 g coriander seeds
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives
'A o z/1 4 g ground turmeric
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley leaves
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g chopped tarragon leaves
2 tb s p /1 2 g ground ginger
Combine all the herbs and mix well. Store in a
2 ts p /8 g mustard seeds
tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 1 to 2
8 dried red chiles
days or use as needed.
1 . Combine all the spices. Roast in a 350F/i77C oven
NOTES: Add marjoram, savory, lavender, or watercress to the
until fragrant, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and
herb m ixture to adjust the flavor, if desired.
cool slightly. Split the chiles and remove and discard
Fines herbes should be added near the end o f cooking

tim e because they do not hold th e ir flavo r long.
the stems and seeds.
2.. Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and

grind them to a medium-fine powder. Store in a
mise en place recipes
Curry Powder
Typical uses include flavoring fo r omelets or crepes, or

as the fina l addition to soups and consommes.
tightly sealed container and use within 1 month.

NOTE: Add paprika, cloves, or fresh curry leaves to the blend,
if desired.
Quatre Epices
Makes
oz/5 y g
V A o z/3 5 g black peppercorns

'A o z/1 4 g ground nutmeg
1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon
2 ts p /4 g cloves
Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and

grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly
sealed container and use within 1 month.
c h a p te r 15 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M EAT S, POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
369
Red Curry Paste
Green Curry Paste
Makes 2 oz/57 g
Makes
OZI5 7 S
V 2 o z/1 4 g red bird chiles
1A ts p /0 .5 0 g cumin seeds
4 dried New Mexico or guajillo chiles,

stemmed, cut into several pieces
V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds

V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
'A ts p /0.50 g white peppercorns
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
1 tb sp /9 g thinly sliced lemongrass
V / 2 ts p /4.50 g thinly sliced galangal
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest
1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped
V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems
5 white peppercorns
1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
5 green Thai chiles, stems and seeds removed
V 2 o z/1 4 g thinly sliced lemongrass
V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems
V 2 tsp /1 g sliced galangal
V 2 ts p /1.50 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available
1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped
V 2 tsp /1 g shrimp paste
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
1 ts p /2 g Thai shrimp paste

V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
2 f I o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed
1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute

pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra
grant, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
1 . Soak the dried chiles in hot water for 15 minutes.

Drain and set aside.
2 . Combine the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in

a small saute pan. Toast over medium heat until fra
grant, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool.
3 . Using a clean spice grinder, grind the toasted spices

to a medium-fine powder and set aside.
4 . Place the chiles, garlic, shallots, lemongrass, ga

langal, lime zest, lime leaves, cilantro root, shrimp
paste, salt, and water in a blender and grind into a
fine paste.
5 . Add the ground spices and blend together until

smooth, adding more water if necessary.
6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for
up to 1 week or use as needed.
370
2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same

manner. Combine with the cumin and coriander.
3 . Grind the toasted spices a clean spice grinder to a

medium-fine powder and reserve until needed.
4 . Place the shallots, garlic, chiles, lemongrass, cilantro

root, galangal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and
salt in a blender and grind into a fine paste.
5 . Add the ground spices and blend until smooth.

V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
Seasoning Mix fo r
Spit-Roasted Meats
and Poultry
2 white peppercorns
Makes 2/4 oz/64 g
Makes 2 oz/57 g
V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds
V 2 o z/1 4 g Thai chiles, stemmed, split, and seeded
1 o z/3 5 g salt
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 tb s p /1 2 g dry mustard
2 medium shallots, sliced
2'/z ts p /5 g ground black pepper
V A ts p /3 g ground turmeric
V/2 ts p /3 g dried thyme
V/2 ts p /4 .5 0 g thinly sliced galangal
V/2 ts p /3 g dried oregano
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available
V/2 tsp / 3 g ground coriander
1 or 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped
V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g celery seed
Yellow Curry Paste
1 ts p /2 g shrimp paste
1 ts p /3 g salt
Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vegetable oil
tainer and use within 1 month.
1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute

pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra
grant. Transfer to a small bowl.
2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same

manner. Add to the cumin and coriander.
3 . Toast the chiles very lightly in the same pan, just

until dark spots begin to appear. (Do not let them
blacken.) Remove from the pan and set aside.
4 . Toast the garlic and shallots in the same manner. Set

aside.
5 . Grind the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in a

clean spice grinder to a medium-fine powder and
reserve until needed.
6 . Combine the chiles, garlic, shallots, turmeric, ga
langal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and salt in a
blender and grind into a fine paste.
7 . Add the ground spices and oil and blend until

smooth.
c h a p te r 15 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
371
Asian-Styie Marinade
Fish Marinade
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL hoisin sauce
12 f I o z /3 6 0 mL olive oil
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL dry sherry
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL lemon juice, dry w hite

wine, or w h ite verm outh
2 f I o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar

V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic
2 f I o z /6 0 mL soy sauce
2 t s p / 1 0 g s a lt
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as
needed.

needed.
Barbecue Marinade
10 f l o z /3 0 0 mL vegetable oil
Red Wine Game

Marinade
5 f I o z /1 5 0 mL cider vinegar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL W orcestershire sauce
6 f l o z /1 8 0 mL dry red wine
1 tb s p /1 5 g brown sugar
5 o z /1 4 2 g diced onions
2 ts p / 6 g minced garlic
V / 2 o z /4 3 g diced celery
2 t s p / 4 g dry m ustard
I V 2 o z /4 3 g diced carro ts
1 ts p /5 mLTabasco sauce
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
1 ts p / 2 g ga rlic powder
2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar
1 ts p / 2 g onion powder
1 ts p / 2 g dried thym e

needed.
V2 ts p /1 g ju nip er berries
V 2 ts p /1 g dried savory
V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
1 to 2 parsley sprigs
1 bay le a f

container and refrigerate or 2 to 3 days or use as
needed.
372
Makes 16 fl
0Z/480
Latin Citrus Marinade
mL
( M o jo )
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry red wine
Makes
1 6 f l 0Z/480
mL
4 f l o z /1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar

9 f l o z /2 7 0 mL orange juice
2 f l o z /6 0 mL olive oil
41/> f l o z /1 3 5 mL lemon juice
lt b s p / 1 5 g sugar
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lim e juice
l t b s p / 6 g dried m int
A 'A ts p / 8 g ground annato seeds
lt s p / 3 g s a l t
r / 2t s p / 5 g s a lt
1 ts p / 2 g ju n ip e r berries
1 ts p /3 g chopped garlic
2 bay leaves
2 onion slices, V 2 in /1 .5 cm th ick
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g dried oregano
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin
Lamb Marinade
1 parsley sprig
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves
1 thym e sprig
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon
1 ga rlic clove, minced
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
Pinch ground nutm eg

container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as
needed.

needed.
c h a p te r 15 M IS E EN PLACE FOR M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
373
Red Wine Marinade

fo r Grilled Meats
Teriyaki Marinade
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL soy sauce
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL peanut oil
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine

1 ts p /3 g salt
3 f I o z/9 0 mL dry sherry

1 o z/2 8 g honey
2 tb s p /1 8 g grated orange zest (optional)
2 ts p /6 g grated ginger
Combine all the ingredients, including the orange

zest, if desired. Store in a tightly sealed container
and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.
needed.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
abricating meats,
oultry, and fish

Meat, poultry, and fish are the most costly part of the food budget of a
foodservice operation, no matter the establishment's scale. Generally, the size
and scope of the operation determine the form in which it purchases meats,
poultry, and fish. For operations with limited labor and storage resources, quality
prefabricated boxed meats, poultry, and fish are an acceptable purchasing form.
CH A P T E R 1 6
C h efs w it h t h e m e a n s to do so o f t e n
TO C O N T R O L
P O R T IO N
e s t a b l i s h m e n t 's
S IZE A N D
prefer
to
p er fo r m
m a n y
f a b r ic a t io n
Q .U A L IT Y IM P O R T A N T C O N S ID E R A T IO N S W H E N
tasks
in
-house
I T C O M E S TO T H E
REPU TATIO N.
meat fabrication
Depending on th e p re va ilin g local m a rke t rates fo r fo o d and labor, in-house fa b ric a tio n
may be less expensive than buying p re fa b ric a te d menu cuts. As a fu rth e r econom ic ben
e fit, trim and bones can be used to prepare o th e r dishes (e.g., stocks, soups, sauces, and
forcem e ats).
General s im ila ritie s e x is t betw een cuts o f beef, veal, lamb, venison, and po rk if they
come fro m the same p a rts o f th e butchered animal. M uscle sections th a t are used more
fre q u e n tly or p e rfo rm arduous ta sks w ill be to u g h e r than m ore se d e n ta ry m uscle groups.
M uscles th a t are located along th e back are used less fre q u e n tly than m uscles th a t are at
the e x tre m itie s . T here fore, the rib and th e loin contain the m o st te n d e r cuts. They ten d to
co st m ore than cuts fro m th e shoulder, which are o fte n m ore exercised and tougher. The
leg may contain te n d e r cuts as w e ll as cuts th a t are q u ite tough. The age and m ethod o f
raising the anim al also de te rm in e a level o f tenderness. W hat may be considered a q u a lity
cut in one species can be q u ite tou gh in an othe r animal.
P roper handling during fa b ric a tio n prepares m eats fo r subsequent cooking. The basic
techniques include trim m in g , boning, p o rtio n cu ttin g , ten derizing , grinding, and tyin g . M ost
o f the techniques described here do n o t req uire any special know ledge o f th e bones in a
cut o f m eat or o f th e anim als overall anatom y, although reference to sections o f C hapter 6 ,
M eat, P oultry, and Game Id e n tific a tio n , w ill be helpful.
376
fabricating m eat
Trimming a tenderloin
A whole pork loin often costs less per pound than a trimmed boneless loin.
Removing the fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim
can then be roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take
some time at first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or
cutlets.
1.
L ift and pull aw ay th e chain o f an u n trim m e d te n d e rlo in . This chain pulls
away easily; use th e blade o f a boning k n ife to ste a d y th e te n d e rlo in as the

chain is pulled away. If necessary, use the boning k n ife to help rem ove it fro m
th e te n d e rlo in .
2.
C o m p le te ly rem ove th e m em brane, collagen, and silverskin . W ork so
th a t your cu ts move to w a rd th e head (the la rg e r end o f th e te n d e rlo in ). This

tough m em brane, w hich g e ts its name fro m its som ew hat silv e ry color, ten ds
to shrink when exposed to heat and causes uneven cooking. W ork th e to p o f
a boning k n ife under th e silve rskin and hold it t ig h t against the m eat. Glide
the k n ife blade ju s t underneath, angling the blade upward s lig h tly ag ainst the
silverskin . A te n d e rlo in o f b e e f is shown here, b u t the same tech niq ue s can be
ap plied to pork, veal, and lam b te n d e rlo in , as w ell as to o th e r cuts o f m ea t w ith
silverskin , includ in g to p round o f b e e f and veal and loin cuts o f venison and
o th e r large game.
c h a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
377
Shaping a medallion
Boneless cuts from the tenderloin of beef and the loin or tenderloin of veal,
lamb, or pork may be called medallions, noisettes (so named because they are
like little nuts of meat), or grenadins (large cuts from the loin). The terms
noisette and medallion are often used interchangeably to refer to a small, bone
less tender cut of meat weighing from 2 to 6 oz/57 to 170 g. Tournedos and
Chateaubriand are special terms generally used only for beef tenderloin cuts.
Tournedos are typically cut from the thinner end of the tenderloin to weigh 5
oz/142 g. Chateaubriand serves two and is cut from the center of the tender
loin; it typically weighs 10 oz/284 g.
After the medallions or similar boneless cuts are portioned, they may
then be wrapped in cheesecloth and molded to give them a compact, uniform
shape. Not only does this give the meat a more pleasing appearance, it also
helps the medallion cook evenly. Gather the cheesecloth together and twist
to tighten it around the meat. As you twist the cloth with one hand, press
down on the meat firmly, with even, moderate pressure, using the broad side
of a knife blade or a similar flat object. The medallions on the left have been
shaped and are of a more uniform size.
378
MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH
Fabricating boneless meats

Meats to be sauteed or pan fried, grilled, or stewed are often fabricated from
larger boneless cuts such as rounds, loins, and/or tenderloins. These cuts are
typically composed of more than one muscle. Each muscle has its own grain
(direction) in which the meat fibers are arranged. Breaking a larger cut into
individual sections allows the chef to cut each piece of meat properly for the
recipe or menu item.
1.
To d ivid e la rg e r cuts (veal to p round shown here), fo llo w th e na tural
m uscle seam s th e y a ct as a roadm ap to d e fin e s p e c ific cuts. This makes it

possible to c u t each m uscle across the grain and ea sily trim o u t any connec
tiv e tissu e o r fa t.
2.
Using th e same tech niq ue as de scrib ed fo r a b e e f te n d e rlo in , trim away
th e f a t and silve rskin . Pay a tte n tio n to th e angle o f the k n ife blade. It should
be angled upw ard to p re ve n t rem o ving edible m eat.
3.
C u ttin g th e m ea t across th e grain produces a cu t o f m ea t th a t is less
tou gh than a piece cu t w ith the grain.
ch a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
379
Shredding and mincing
Cutting and pounding cutlets
The French word for this cut is
A meat cutlet or scallop is a thin boneless cut of meat prepared from the loin,
emince, or cut into slivers. Meat is
the tenderloin, or any other sufficiently tender cut of meat such as the top
cut across the grain into thin strips
round. Cutlet, scaloppine in Italian, and escalope in French are different words
of a length and width appropriate for
for the same cut and are used depending on a menus particular style. Cutlets
the dish. Since the meat is generally
are typically cut across the grain and on the bias.

Cutlets are often pounded to ensure an even thickness over their entire
sauteed, the cut should be one of the

most tender. This technique can be
area so that they can be rapidly sauteed or pan fried. A paillard is a pounded
used for beef, lamb, and even pork.
cutlet that is grilled rather than sauteed or pan fried. Adjust the weight of the
Be sure to trim the meat completely
mallet and strength of the blow to match the delicacy of the meat. Turkey cut
before cutting it into emince. Once
lets (slices of turkey breast), for example, require a more delicate touch than
cut, the emince may be pounded, if
pork cutlets. Be careful not to tear or overstretch the meat while pounding it.
appropriate, using the same tech

nique as for pounding cutlets. Blot
1 .
the pounded emince dry before
cum ference. Using a s c im ita r k n ife is n o t a b s o lu te ly necessary, b u t w ill help
cooking.
to p re ve n t te a rs in th e m eat when c u ttin g .
2.
Cut pieces o f the same w e ig h t (ge ne rally 1 to 4 o z /2 8 to 113 g) and c ir
Place th e m ea t in betw een layers o f p la s tic wrap. Use a pounding and
pu llin g m o tio n to evenly th in th e c u tle t. Increased surface area and decreased

th ickn e ss p ro m o te rapid cooking.
fabricating m eat
Cutting bone-in chops

Chops and steaks are made from bone-in cuts from the rib or loin. Large
bones can be difficult to saw through, but the bones of cuts from the rib and
loin of pork, lamb, venison, and beef are more manageable.
1.
Cut away th e backbone, o fte n re fe rre d to as th e chine bone, using a
handsaw. C o m p le te ly sever th e bone fro m th e rib bones w ith o u t c u ttin g in to

the m eat muscle.
2.
Using you r g u id in g hand to hold th e chine bone away fro m th e m eat, w o rk
w ith th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make sm oo th stro k e s along th e fe a th e r bones,

c u ttin g the m ea t cleanly away fro m the bones.
3.
Cut betw een each rib bone w ith a s c im ita r or c h e fs k n ife to make in d i
vid ua l chops. W hen c u ttin g th ro u g h th e m eat, use even pressure to cre a te a

sm oo th surface on th e chops.
381
Trimming a strip loin and cutting boneless steaks

Steaks cut in-house can keep the kitchens food cost down. Cuts must be
made evenly to guarantee even cooking time.
1.
The s trip loin has a ta il, so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as a lip, running along
one edge o f th e m uscle. C ut away th is heavy layer o f fa t fir s t, ta k in g care not

to cut th e in te rio r loin muscle. Hold th is fa t cover ta u t as you run th e kn ife
blade down the le ng th o f th e loin, angling th e blade up s lig h tly . Remove I V 2
to 2 in /4 to 5 cm o f th e fa t cover.
2.
A s trip loin m ay have a se ctio n known as th e chain. Once th e fa t cover is
trim m e d to the desired thickn ess, rem ove th e chain. Reserve it fo r a n othe r
use.
3.
The ch e f is c u ttin g steaks fro m th e rib end o f th e s trip loin. The ste a k on
the le ft has been cu t fro m th is end. The V -shaped s tre a k o f collagen was re
moved and the ste a k on th e rig h t was cu t fro m th e s irlo in end. W hile stea ks cut
fro m th is end are as te n d e r as th o se cu t fro m th e rib end, th e collagen its e lf is
tough, and can give th e im p ressio n th a t th e ste a k is tough. These stea ks are
som e tim es re fe rre d to as vein steaks.
A d ju s t th e th ickn e ss o f th e cu t to produce equal-size stea ks o f th e desired
w e igh t. R e frig e ra te c u t stea ks u n til ready to cook.
382
fabricating m eat
Trimming and boning a pork loin

A whole pork loin often costs less than a trimmed boneless loin. Removing the
fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim can then be
roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take some time at
first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or cutlets.
1 .
The novice should c u t s lo w ly and sto p to exam ine the loin betw een cuts.
The f ir s t s te p when w o rk in g w ith a p o rk loin is to rem ove th e te n d e rlo in , if

it is s till in ta c t. N ext, c u t aw ay th e fa t cover to th e de sire d th ickn e ss. Make
sm oo th s tro k e s along th e rib bones to fre e the m eat, as shown here. Pull the
bones away fro m th e m ea t w ith your g u id in g hand to make it easy to see and
pre ve n t cuts in to th e edib le m eat. Pass th e k n ife close to th e bones, scraping
the m clean so th a t as litt le m ea t as po ssib le is le ft on th e bones.
2.
Use th e tip o f th e k n ife to cu t around jo in ts and be tw ee n bones, and use
th e f la t p a rt o f th e blade f o r longer, sw eeping s tro ke s. Near th e b o tto m o f the

rib bones is a knob-shaped ridge o r ste p th a t m u st be cu t around to c o m p le te
ly rem ove th e m ea t fro m th e bone. It has a lm o st a rig h t angle th a t m u st be cut
around. Take care n o t to cu t in to th e ed ib le m e a t when c u ttin g around th e step.
Once th e loin has been trim m e d and boned, it can be used to pre pa re a
w ide v a rie ty o f menu cuts in clud in g m edallions, c u tle ts , and em ince.
c h a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
383
Boning a leg of lamb

Although this procedure may look difficult, it is possible to do it successfully
by following the steps shown in the accompanying illustrations.
The leg is covered with a layer of fat and a membrane known as the fell.
The fat and membrane should be removed carefully, leaving as much edible
meat intact as possible.
A leg of lamb can be boned out to use in a number of different ways. It
can be butterflied and grilled, or rolled, tied, and roasted. The meat can be
divided along the natural seams to make small roasts, or sliced into cutlets or
cubes.
1.
The leg con tain s th e hind shank bone, the pe lvic bones (co n sistin g o f
the hip bone and th e aitch bone), a p o rtio n o f th e backbone and ta il, and the
leg bone (also known as th e fem ur).
2.
W ork the tip o f th e k n ife around th e pe lvic bone. As you cu t in to th e m eat
to rem ove the bones, use an overhand g rip to hold your boning k n ife and cut
w ith the tip o f the blade as you w o rk around bones and jo in ts . W ork the kn ife
tip along th e bone to rem ove as much m ea t as possible fro m th e bone.
384
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3 .
When th e m ea t has been fre e d fro m th e p e lvic bone, l i f t th e bone up
and away fro m th e leg.
4.
Make a cut down th e shank bone and cu t th e m ea t cleanly away fro m
th e bone.
5 .
A fte r fre e in g th e m ea t fro m th e shank bone, cu t around th e fe m u r to
rem ove th e bones fro m th e m eat.
385
Frenching a rack of lamb

This technique is one of the more complicated fabrication techniques, but it
is not especially difficult to master. Trimmed and frenched racks or chops can
be ordered from a meat purveyor, of course, but the chef can exercise greater
control over trim loss if the work is done in the kitchen. The same technique
can be used to french individual rib chops of lamb, veal, or pork. Any lean
trim can be used to prepare jus or a stock.
1 .
Make an even cu t th ro u g h th e fa t cove rin g all the way down to th e bone.
The cut should be ab ou t 1 in /3 cm fro m th e m eat's eye.
2.
S et th e rack on one end and make a sta b b in g cut betw een each p a ir o f
bones, using th e in itia l cut as a guide.
386
MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH
fabricating m eat
3.
Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to score th e th in m em brane cove rin g the
bones. This w ill allow th e bones to break th ro u g h th e m em brane easily.
4.
Push th e bones th ro u g h th e m em brane. Use your fin g e rs to s ta b iliz e the
b o tto m o f th e rack w h ile p e eling away th e cu t m em branes and pushing th e

bones o u t w ith you r thum bs.
5 .
Lay th e rack so th a t th e bones are fa cin g down. M ake an even cu t to sever
th e fa t cap and m e a t su rro u n d in g th e bone ends. It should pu ll away easily.
ch a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
387
Tying a roast
Tying a roast with secure knots that have the right tension is one of the simplest
and most frequently required types of meat fabrication. It ensures that the
roast will cook evenly and that it will retain its shape after roasting. As long as
the string is taut enough to give the roast a compact shape, without being too
tight, the result will be fine. Leave the string very long so that it will wrap easily
around the entire diameter and length of the meat. Or leave the string attached
to the spool and cut it only when the entire roast has been tied.
te c h n iq u e o n e
For this technique, the string is left attached to the spool rather than cut into
lengths. To start tying the roast, tie the end of the string around the thicker
end of the meat (any knot that holds securely may be used).
1.
Pass th e s trin g around your o u tsp re a d fin g e rs and th u m b so th a t the
s trin g crosses its e lf and m akes an X.
2.
Spread your hand open to enlarge th e loop.
3.
C ontinue to enlarge the loop u n til it is w ide enough to pass ea sily around
th e th ic k e r end o f th e m eat, co m p le te ly e n circlin g it.
4.
Encircle th e m eat w ith th e loop, m aking sure th a t the kn o ts are spaced
evenly a p a rt fro m one another.
388
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
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Pull th e loose end o f th e s trin g u n til th e loop is secu rely tig h te n e d around
the m eat. N o te th a t th e s trin g has fo rm e d a h a lf h itch kn o t a t th is p o in t. Con

tin u e u n til th e e n tire piece o f m ea t has been secured w ith loops.
6 .
Turn th e piece o f m ea t over. Pass th e loose end o f th e s trin g th ro u g h the
loop, then pass it back around and underneath the loop. Pull th e s trin g tig h t
and con tinu e down th e le ng th o f th e m eat.
7.
Once th e s trin g has been w ra pp ed around each loop fro m one end to th e
other, tu rn th e m ea t back over. Cut th e loose end and tie th e s trin g secu rely to
the f ir s t loop.
te c h n iq u e t w o
For this tying technique, cut several lengths of string. Each piece should be
long enough to wrap completely around the meat with sufficient additional
length to tie a series of double knots.
There are other methods used for tying roasts than the two shown here.
If you have the chance to learn other methods, you will be better able to
adapt to tying different cuts of meat with ease.
Both techniques illustrated here work for both boneless and bone-in
roasts. The choice of technique is a matter of personal preference.
Technique tw o
c h a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H
389
variety meats
In re ce n t years, as A m ericans have becom e less squea
the tongue in a fla v o rfu l b ro th or bouillon, and it w ill be
m ish ab o u t organ m eats, th e dem and f o r p ro p e rly
come very tender. L e t th e tongue cool in the cooking liquid
pre pa red liver, kidneys, tongue, sw e etbre ads, and o th e r
to b o ls te r its flavor. Once the tongue is cooled, care fu lly
kinds o f v a rie ty m eats has grow n. Because the se cuts
peel it to remove the skin. You can peel it away easily
are d iffic u lt to fin d in a g ro ce ry s to re o r even a butcher's
fro m the tip o f the tongue using ju s t your fingers. The skin
shop, many people are u n c o m fo rta b le w ith o r unsure o f
clings m ore tig h tly near the base o f the tongue, so it may
p ro p e r p re p a ra tio n techniques.
be necessary to use a paring kn ife to remove the rem ain

ing skin fro m the base and underside o f the tongue.
liv e r
Once peeled, tongue can be used in a v a rie ty o f ways:
Prepare live r b e fo re coo kin g by rem o ving any silverskin ,
It can be cu t in to ju lie nn e o r dice and used as a garnish
to u g h m em branes, veins, and g ris tle . W hen su b je cte d to
f o r sauces, soups, o r pates. It m ay be sliced th in ly and
in te nse heat, silve rskin shrinks m ore ra p id ly tha n m eat,
served h o t o r cold, o r used as a liner fo r te rrin e molds.
m aking th e liv e r pu cker and cook unevenly.
m a rro w
k id n e y s
M a rro w the s o ft inner substance o f bones is o fte n
The unique fla v o r o f kidneys w ill com e th ro u g h as long
used as a garnish f o r soups, sauces, and o th e r dishes.
as th e y are p e rfe c tly fre s h and p ro p e rly handled. Soak
C ertain bones, known as m a rro w bones, have a s ig n ifi
kidneys in sa lte d w a te r f o r 12 hours, the n rinse w e ll and
can t am ount o f m arro w th a t is re la tiv e ly easy to rem ove
soak in m ilk f o r a n o th e r 12 to 2 4 hours. Rinse th e k id
using th e fo llo w in g technique: Subm erge th e m arro w
neys, the n cu t the m in h a lf and rem ove all o f th e fa t and
bones in cold, sa lte d w a te r f o r a fe w hours to remove
veins. In some cases, recipes may in d ica te th a t th e k id
th e excess bloo d and im p u ritie s . A fte r th e y have soaked,
neys be blanched fir s t. Peel th e kidneys by pu llin g away
push th e m arro w o u t w ith your thum b.
th e m em brane covering them .
s w e e tb re a d s
to n g u e
S w e etbre ad s are th e thym us gland o f veal. It is a s o ft-
Tongue is quite a tough muscle. This cut o f m eat may be
s tru c tu re d gland th a t can be cu t w ith a fo rk , when
sold w ith the skin or may be smoked. It is easier to remove
p ro p e rly prepared. This p a rtic u la r o ffa l is considered a
the skin fro m the cooked sm oked tongue. G ently sim m er
de lica cy and w a rra n ts a high cost.
Tongue
390
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Sweetbreads need to be thoroughly rinsed in cold water to remove all traces

of blood. They are then blanched in a court bouillon, peeled, and pressed to
give them a firmer, more appealing texture. The sweetbreads can then be pre
pared a la meuniere (floured and sauteed). Sweetbreads are used to prepare
terrines.
1 .
S w e etbre ad s need to be th o ro u g h ly rinsed in cold w a te r to rem ove all
tra ce s o f blood. Blanch th e m in enough c o u rt bo u illo n to cover.
2.
A fte r blanching th e sw e etbre ads, le t the m cool enough to handle easily.
Pull away the m em brane cove rin g th e m eat.
3.
R oll th e peeled lobes tig h tly in che ese cloth to give th e sw e e tb re a d s a
firm e r, m ore ap pe aling te x tu re . Place th e sw e etbre ads in a p e rfo ra te d h o te l

pan (as shown), place w e ig h t on to p o f them , and press th e sw e e tb re a d s under
re frig e ra tio n f o r several hours.
4.
The pressed sw e e tb re a d s should be firm , com pact, and able to be sliced
easily. The s w e e tb re a d s can be p re pa red a la m euniere (flo u re d and sauteed)

or used in te rrin e s and o th e r pre p a ra tio n s.
Chapter 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H
391
FROM LEFTTO RIGHT:

Grinder housing or grinder body, worm,
blade, d iffe re n t size dies, collar.
Meats ground w ith d iffe re n t-size dies

FROM LEFTTO RIGHT:
Meats ground w ith a coarse die,
medium die, and fine die.
Grinding meat
Grinding meat calls for scrupulous attention to safe food handling practices
(see page 31). This fabrication technique applies to poultry and fish as well as
meats. Observe the following procedures for best results:
Unplug th e g rin d e r b e fo re asse m bling o r disassem bling.
Clean th e g rin d e r w e ll and p u t it to g e th e r c o rre c tly . M ake sure th a t the
blade is s ittin g flu s h ag ainst th e die. In th is p o s itio n , th e blade cuts the
fo o d neatly, ra th e r than te a rin g or sh re d d in g it.
Cut th e m e a t in to dice o r s trip s th a t w ill f i t ea sily th ro u g h th e g rind er's
fe e d tube.
C hill m ea ts th o ro u g h ly b e fo re g rind ing . C hill all g rin d e r p a rts th a t w ill come
in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d by e ith e r re frig e ra tin g th e m or sub m erg ing the m
in ice w ater.
Do n o t fo rc e th e m ea t th ro u g h th e fe e d tu b e w ith a tam per. If th e y are th e
c o rre c t size, th e pieces w ill be drawn e a sily by th e worm .
Be sure th a t th e blade is sharp. M e a t should be cu t cleanly, never m angled
or mashed, as it passes th ro u g h th e grinder.
For all b u t v e ry d e lic a te m ea ts (salm on o r o th e r fish , f o r exam ple), begin
w ith a die w ith large openings. The m ea t w ill ap pe ar q u ite coarse.
G rind th ro u g h p ro g re s s iv e ly sm a lle r dies u n til th e de sire d co n siste n cy is
achieved.
A fin a l pass th ro u g h a fin e die gives th e ground m ea t a m ore re fin e d te x
tu re , and fu rth e r blends th e lean m ea t and fa t.
392
o u ltr y
a lw a y s
p o p u la r
a n d
readily a v a ila b le
is a m o n g
the
le a s t c o stly meats
used
for
E N T R E E S A N D O T H E R M E N U I T E M S . F A B R I C A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S A R E D E M O N S T R A T E D H E R E ON A C H I C K E N ,
T H E B I R D M O S T C O M M O N L Y U S E D IN R E S T A U R A N T S . T H E S E T E C H N I Q U E S C A N B E A P P L I E D TO V I R T U A L L Y
A L L PO U LT R Y T Y P E S , NOT O N L Y CHI CK E N BUT SQ UA B , DUCK, P H E AS A N T, T U R K E Y , AN D QUAIL, WITH S O M E
M O D I F I C A T I O N F O R S I Z E ( S M A L L E R BI RDS R E Q U I R E M O R E D E LI C A T E , P R E C I S E CUTS; L A R G E R OR O L D E R
B I R D S , A H E A V I E R B L A D E A N D G R E A T E R P R E S S U R E TO B R E A K T H R O U G H T O U G H J O I N T S A N D S I N E w ) .
poultry fabrication
fabricating poultry
The goose is ty p ic a lly la rge r than the duck o r chicken, b u t th e bone s tru c tu re is simitar. The
d iffic u lty in fa b ric a tio n lies in th e fa c t th a t th e goose is v e ry fa tty , m aking th e d e fin itio n o f
w here to cut a little challenging.
The younger the bird, the easier it is to cut up. Young birds are usually much sm aller
and th e ir bones have n o t com p le te ly hardened. The size and breed o f the b ird w ill also
have som e bearing on how easy or d iffic u lt it is to fa b ric a te . Chickens are ge ne rally fa r
sim p le r to cu t up, fo r exam ple, than are pheasant. The ten don s and ligam e nts in chicken
are less w ell developed, exce pt in the case o f fre e -ra n g e birds, which move fre e ly ab ou t an
enclosed pen or yard.
When fa b ric a tin g , pay close a tte n tio n to fo o d s a fe ty reg ulation s. Some kitche ns use
co lo r-co d e d c u ttin g boards to avoid cross c o n ta m in a tio n betw een m eat, p o u ltry , fish, and
vegetables. Regardless o f th e m a te ria l th a t c u ttin g boards are made o f (wood or p lastic
resin), th e y w ill rem ain sa n ita ry if p ro p e rly cleaned.
393
Preparing a supreme
A supreme is a semiboneless poultry breast half, usually from a chicken,
pheasant, partridge, or duck, so named because it is the best (supreme) por
tion. One wing joint, often frenched, is left attached to the breast meat.
If
the skin is removed from the supreme, it may be referred to as a cotelette. Supremes may be sauteed, poached, or grilled.
To prepare a chicken supreme from a whole chicken by this technique,
you must cut away the wing tip and remove the legs. The breast meat and the
first joint of the wing are then cut away from the birds carcass. Reserve the
carcass for stock or broth.
1 .
Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make a cu t th a t circles around th e sec
ond jo in t o f th e w ing bone. M ake sure to c u t th ro u g h th e web skin as well.

Bend th e w ing bone at th e second jo in t to snap it. C ontinue to c u t th ro u g h
th e jo in t u n til th e w ing tip and w ing fla p are rem oved, leaving th e d ru m e tte
a tta ch e d to th e breast.
2.
Cut th ro u g h the skin betw een th e th ig h and the breast.
3.
Bend th e leg backw ard, away fro m the body, to expose th e ba ll socket.
M ake a cu t th a t runs along th e backbone to th e ball and socket, as shown. Hold

th e chicken sta b le w ith th e heel o f you r kn ife , and pu ll th e leg away fro m the
body firm ly and evenly. This w ill rem ove th e leg and th e o y s te r cleanly fro m
the backbone s tru c tu re . Repeat on th e o th e r side.
4.
W ith th e b re a s t fa c in g up, cu t along e ith e r side o f the keel bone w ith a
kn ife . Use your g u id in g hand to s te a d y th e bird.
394
fabricating poultry
5.
Remove th e b re a s t m ea t fro m
th e rib cage w ith d e lic a te cuts. Use

the tip o f th e k n ife to fre e th e m eat
fro m th e bones, running th e t ip along
th e bones f o r th e b e s t yield.
6 .
Trim excess skin away fro m the
breast, m aking sure to keep enough

skin in ta c t to cover the chicken breast.
7.
Use the blade to scrape the
m eat o f f th e rem a ining w ing bone to

expose th e bone co m p le te ly. This is
known as fre n ch in g th e bone. It is not
a b s o lu te ly necessary to fre n c h the
bone o f a suprem e.
8 .
The suprem e on th e le ft does
n o t have a fre n ch e d bone w h ile the
suprem e on th e rig h t does have the

excess m ea t rem oved.
c h a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H
395
Trussing poultry
The object of trussing or tying any bird is to give it a smooth, compact shape
so that it will cook evenly and retain moisture. Several different methods for
trussing poultry exist, some involving trussing needles, some requiring only
string. One simple way of tying with string is shown here.
1.
Cut away th e w ing tip and w ing fla p . Pass the m id dle o f a piece o f s trin g
u n derneath th e jo in ts a t th e end o f th e d ru m sticks, and cross th e ends o f the

s trin g to make an X. Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g down to w a rd th e ta il to loop
th e s trin g around the jo in ts .
2 .
Pull bo th ends o f th e s trin g tig h tly across the jo in t th a t connects the
d ru m s tic k and th e th ig h and con tinu e to pull th e s trin g along th e body to w a rd

th e bird's back, ca tch in g th e w ing u n derneath the string .
3.
Flip the bird over and pu ll th e s trin g tig h t. M ake an X across th e w ings to
hold the m tig h tly against the bird.
396
fabricating poultry
5
4.
Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g un derneath th e backbone a t th e neck opening.
Tie the tw o ends o f th e s trin g w ith a secure knot.
5 .
The fr o n t and re a rv ie w s o f a p ro p e rly tru s s e d bird.
ch a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH
397
Halving and quartering poultry

Chicken and other birds may be halved or quartered before or after cook
ing. Smaller birds, such as Cornish game hens and broiler chickens that are
to be grilled are often halved. These birds are small enough to cook through
completely before the skin becomes scorched or charred. If the bones are left
intact during grilling, they provide some protection against shrinkage.
In many restaurants, the ducks needed for an evenings service will be
roasted in advance, then halved and partially deboned; then at service it is
necessary only to reheat the duck and crisp the skin in a hot oven.
1 .
Cut fro m th e ta il to th e neck opening down e ith e r side o f th e backbone.
Pull upw ard s lig h tly w hile c u ttin g down, e x e rtin g enough pressure to cut
th ro u g h th e rib bones.
2.
Lay o u t th e w hole bre ast, w ith th e bones fa cin g up. Use th e tip o f a bon
ing k n ife to cu t th ro u g h the w h ite c a rtila g e a t th e ve ry to p o f th e keel bone.
398
fabricating poultry
3.
Open th e b re a s t like a book. This bending a ctio n w ill expose th e keel
bone. Grab th e keel bone fir m ly and pull it and th e a tta ch e d c a rtila g e away
fro m th e b re a s t m eat. The c a rtila g e may break away fro m th e keel bone. Be
sure to rem ove th e e n tire s tru c tu re .
4.
Cut th e chicken in to halves by m aking a cu t down th e c e n te r o f th e bird.
5 .
S ep ara te th e leg and th ig h fro m th e b re a s t and w ing by c u ttin g th ro u g h
th e skin ju s t above w here th e b re a s t and th ig h m eet.
399
Disjointing a rabbit
The technique for disjointing a rabbit is similar to that for a chicken. Rabbit
is a relatively lean, mildly flavored meat. The loin and rib sections are leaner
than the legs, in much the same way that chicken breast is leaner than the
legs. By removing the legs and shoulder, you can apply two different cook
ing methods to one rabbitmoist heat for the legs, dry heat for the lointo
achieve the most satisfactory results.
1 .
Spread open th e be lly c a v ity o f th e ra b b it and pull o u t th e kidneys and
liver. Sever any m em brane a tta c h in g th e liv e r to th e cavity. Reserve th e live r

fo r an o th e r use, if desired.
2.
Remove th e hind legs by c u ttin g th ro u g h th e jo in t and the n th ro u g h the
m eat to sep ara te th e hind leg fro m th e loin.
3.
To sep ara te th e fr o n t legs and sho ulder fro m th e re s t o f th e body, pull
th e leg away fro m the body and cut th ro u g h th e jo in t.
400
fabricating rabbit
5
4.
Cut away the hind and f r o n t p o rtio n s o f th e loin to produce th e saddle.
5 .
A fu lly d is jo in te d ra b b it is shown here, includ in g th e hind legs (top), sad
dle, liver, kidneys, and fo re le g /s h o u ld e r sections.
401
uch
of
the
fish
pu r c h a sed
by
c h e fs
is
filleted
either
by
han d
or
w ith
specialized
FIL LE TI N G M A CH IN E S . T H E S E FISH F IL L ET S HA V E B E C O M E SO C O M M O N P L A C E THAT W H O L E FISH A RE

O F T E N M O R E D I F FI C U L T A N D E X P E N S I V E F OR T H E A V E R A G E C O M M E R C I A L F O O D S E L L E R TO OBTAIN A N D
T R A N S P O R T TO T H E L O C A L R E S T A U R A N T O R R E T A I L O P E R A T I O N . W H E N P U R C H A S I N G S E A F O O D F O R A
R E S T A U R A N T , W H O L E S A L E S E A F O O D S E L L E R S A R E M U C H B E T T E R E Q . U I P P E D TO H A N D L E W H O L E F I S H
A N D U N D E R S T A N D I TS Q . U A L I T Y .
fish fabrication
M o s t fis h fa ll in to one o f tw o categories: round o r fla t. Time, pra ctice, and experience w ill
help de te rm in e w hich o f a num ber o f techniques to use to fa b ric a te a p a rtic u la r fish . D if
fe re n t m ethods can achieve v irtu a lly the same resu lts, and th e m ethods shown here are
n o t always the only way to proceed. The re a lity is th a t f ille tin g fis h is a messy process th a t
take s tim e , space, and skill, b u t freshn ess in d ica to rs such as clear eyes, aroma, b rig h t gills,
and firm n e ss o f th e fle sh cannot be evaluated if th e fis h is n o t whole. A long w ith evalua
tio n o f th e q u a lity and freshness, it is much easier to d e te rm in e the species by lo okin g a t a
w hole fis h as opposed to fille ts , w ith th e added advantage th a t th e le fto v e r bones can be
used to make valuable fis h stock.
The basic procedure f o r scaling th e f ir s t ste p in p re pa ring the fis h b e fo re any fu rth e r
fa b ric a tio n is done applies to all typ e s o f fish. M etho ds d iffe r slig h tly, however, fo r g u t
tin g round fis h and f la t fish. S im ilarly, the tech niq ue fo r fille tin g a round fis h is d iffe re n t
fro m th a t used fo r a f la t fish. In d e te rm in in g how to fa b ric a te a fis h , know ledge o f th a t p a r
tic u la r fish's sp e c ific p ro p e rtie s is im p o rta n t (see C hapter 7, Fish and S he llfish Id e n tific a
tion ). O th er seafood, including crustaceans (lo bster, shrim p, crayfish , and crab), m ollusks
(clams, oysters, and mussels), and cephalopods (squid and octo pus) also m ust be ca re fu lly
handled to m aintain q u a lity and wholesom eness.
402
c r
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P
QTQ
C/3
13-
Scaling and trim m ing fish
Gutting round fish
Most fishthough not allhave
Fish viscera (guts) are typically re
scales that must be removed as a first
moved soon after the fish is taken
step in fabrication. The best way to
from the water, right on the fishing
remove scales is with a fish scaler;
boat. The enzymes in the viscera
but other tools (such as the dull side
can begin to break down the flesh
of a knife, a table crumber, a spoon
rapidly, leading to spoilage. If a fish
handle) can be used if a scaler is not
has not been gutted, this step should
available. The fins and tails can be
be performed right after it has been
cut away at this point, or later when
scaled.
the fish is gutted.

To scale a fish, work from the
To gut a round fish, make a slit

in the fishs belly and pull out the
tail toward the head, gripping the
guts. Rinse the belly cavity thorough
fish by the tail, and allow water to
ly under cold running water to re
flow over the fish to help keep the
move all traces of viscera and blood.
scales from flying around. Do not

pinch the fish too tightly as this
could bruise the flesh.
ch a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
403
Filleting round fish: straight-cut method

Fillets are one of the most common fabrications for fish. These boneless
and (usually) skinless fish pieces can be sauteed, grilled, baked, formed into
paupiettes, or cut into tranches or goujonettes.
Round fish are fabricated into two fillets, one from each side of the fish.
There are two techniques for filleting a round fish. The first technique is used
on soft-boned, round fish like the salmon and trout family and Spanish mack
erel. The name of the technique for soft-boned round fish is the straight-cut
method. The second, for use on hard-boned round fish, is called the up and
over technique.
1.
Lay th e fis h on a c u ttin g board w ith the backbone p a rallel to th e w o rk
surface and th e head on th e same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Using a fille tin g
knife , cut behind th e head and g ill plates. Angle th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g
m o tio n is down and away fro m th e body. This does n o t cu t th e head o f the
fis h away fro m th e body.
2.
W ith o u t rem o ving th e kn ife , tu rn it so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is p o in tin g
to w a rd th e ta il o f th e fis h . P o sitio n th e k n ife so th a t th e handle is lo w er than

th e tip o f th e blade. This w ill im prove the yie ld by keeping th e knife 's edge
aim ed a t the bones, ra th e r than th e fle sh . Run the blade down th e length o f the
fish , c u ttin g a g ainst the backbone. Avoid saw ing th e blade back and fo rth .
3.
By c u ttin g evenly and sm oo th ly, you w ill s p lit the ta il, as shown. Lay the
f ille t skin side down on th e w o rk surface o r in a h o te l pan.
404
P
c r
i *
n
p
2
QTQ
CA
4.
Turn th e fis h over and re p e a t th e previous step s to rem ove th e second
fille t.
5 .
Remove th e be lly bones by m aking sm oo th stro k e s ag ainst th e bones to
cut the m away cleanly. If necessary, cu t away th e rem n an ts o f th e backbone

by running th e blade ju s t un derneath th e line o f th e backbone.
6 .
To rem ove th e skin, lay th e f ille t p a rallel to the edge o f the c u ttin g su r
face. Hold th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is ag ainst th e skin; pu ll th e skin

ta u t w ith you r g u id ing hand as you cu t th e f ille t free.
7.
Lo cate th e pin bones by running a fin g e rtip over th e fille t. Use needle-
nose p lie rs o r tw e e ze rs to pull o u t th e bones. Pull the m o u t in th e d ire c tio n o f

the head o f th e f ille t (w ith th e grain) to avoid rip p in g th e flesh .
c h a p te r 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH
405
Up and over technique fo r round fish

The up and over technique may be used only on hard-boned round fish. A
filet knife with a flexible blade should be used for this technique.
1.
Lay th e fis h on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e b e lly away fro m you and the
head to w a rd your dom inant, c u ttin g hand. C ut th ro u g h th e belly, under the

p e c to ra l fin , and around th e g ill plate, m aking sure to g e t in to th e head.
2.
Score th ro u g h the skin fro m th e head to ta il using one long s troke.
Continue m aking long, s tra ig h t stro k e s along th e back u n til you reach the
ce n te r bone.
3.
Flex y ou r k n ife up and over th e c e n te r bone, c u ttin g th ro u g h the pin
bones.
4.
Continue c u ttin g close to th e b e lly bones u n til the f ille t is fre e fro m the
carcass. S kinning is th e same as f o r th e s tra ig h t-c u t m etho d (see page 405).
406
c r
*-s
I**
n
p
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Eft
C/3
Gutting fla t fish

Fish are typically gutted before they are shipped to market. If a fish has not
been gutted, this step should be performed immediately after scaling.
1 .
To g u t a f la t fish , cu t around th e head, m aking a V -shaped notch.
2.
Pull th e head away fro m th e body w h ile tw is tin g it s lig h tly . The g u ts w ill
come away w ith th e head. Rinse th e be lly c a v ity th o ro u g h ly under cold running
w a te r to rem ove all tra c e s o f visce ra and blood.
407
Filleting fla t fish: making full fille ts

Flat fish can be fabricated into two fillets, one from the top and one from the
bottom of the fish.
1.
To make tw o fille ts fro m a f la t fish , use a fille tin g k n ife to cut the fle s h
away fro m th e bones, s ta rtin g on an o u te r edge and w o rk in g fro m th e ta il

to w a rd th e head.
2.
A d ju s t th e d ire c tio n and le ng th o f you r stro k e s to go over th e rid ge o f
bones in th e c e n te r o f th e fille t. Hold th e f ille t up and away fro m th e bones as

you w o rk to see th e bone s tru c tu re . Continue c u ttin g to th e o th e r edge and
rem ove th e to p f ille t in a single piece. Repeat on th e o th e r side.
408
Making four (or quarter) fille ts of fla t fish

Flat fish can be fabricated into four fillets by removing the fillet from each
side of the backbone on the top and again on the bottom.
1.
P o sitio n th e fis h w ith th e head fa cin g to w a rd you. Cut to one side o f the
ce n te r ridge.
2.
M ake cuts along th e bones, w o rk in g fro m the ce n te r to th e edge.
3.
A fte r th e f ille t is rem oved, you can see th e roe sack and th e b e lly p o rtio n .
These should be trim m e d away fro m the f ille t as p a rt o f its p re p a ra tio n fo r

cooking.
409
Cutting fish into steaks

Fish steaks are simply crosscuts of the fish, and are relatively easy to cut. The
fish is scaled, gutted, and trimmed of its fins and gills. Steaks can be of virtu
ally any thickness. Dames, a French term, are thick steaks. There are few flat
fish large enough to cut into steaks; however, round fish like salmon are gen
erally fabricated in this fashion.
Starting with a scaled, gutted, and trimmed fish (in this case salmon),
use a chefs knife to make crosswise cuts through the fish to yield steaks of
the desired size. Pan-dressed fish are smaller, dressed fish that are usually not
cut into steaks and are served whole.
410
MEATS. POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH
fabricating fish
Tranche
Paupiette
Goujonette
A tranche is simply a slice of the
A paupiette is a rolled thin fillet,
The name for this cut is derived from
fillet. It is cut by holding the knife
oftenbut not necessarilyfilled
the French name for a small fish,
at an angle while cutting to expose
with a forcemeat or other stuffing.
the goujon. Goujonettes are small
more surface area and give the piece
Properly prepared, it resembles a
strips cut from a fillet; they are of
of fish a larger appearance. A tranche
large cork. Paupiettes are generally
ten breaded or dipped in batter and
can be cut from any relatively large
made from lean fish such as flounder
deep-fried. This cut has about the
fillet of fishfor example, salmon or
or sole, although they may also be
same dimensions as an adults index
halibut. Though this cut is normally
made from some moderately fatty
finger. Goujonettes are normally cut
associated with sauteed or pan-fried
fish such as trout or salmon. The
from lean white fish such as sole or
dishes, a tranche is often grilled or
most common preparation technique
flounder.
broiled.
for paupiettes is shallow poaching.
Using a very sharp slicer, slice

across the fish at approximately a
Make even, finger-size cuts from

the prepared fillet by cutting at an
angle across the grain of the flesh.
45-degree angle. The greater the

angle of the knife, the more surface
area will be exposed.
Chapter 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S. POULTRY. A N D FISH
4 11
2
Dover sole
Dover sole is handled in a special way. Many chefs like to skin the fish before
filleting it. The skin is freed from the tail with a filleting knife, then simply
pulled away.
1 .
Cut away th e fin s w ith kitche n scissors.
2 .
M ake an in itia l cu t to fre e th e skin fro m the fle s h o f th e ta il. Hold th e ta il
firm ly and pull the skin away b e fo re fille tin g .
412
crustaceans
, w i t h j o i n t e d s k e l e t o n s ON T H E
E X T E R I O R OF T H E I R BODI ES; M O LLUSK S, WI TH A S I N G L E ( U N I V A L V E ) OR A H I N G E D ( B I V A L V E ) S H E L L ;

A N D CEPHALOPODS, WI TH T E N T A C L E S . L O B S T E R , S H R I M P , C R A Y F I S H , A N D C R A B A R E A L L C R U S T A C E A N S ;
M O L L U S K S INCLUDE CLAMS, OYSTERS, AND MUSSELS; SQUID AND OCTOPUS ARE CEP H A LO P O D S .T H E Y
ARE A L L PREPARED BEFORE COOKING USING A VARIETY OF FABRICATION TECHNIQUES.
shellfish
fabrication
fabricating shellfish
The m ain s h e l l f i s h c a t e g o r i e s a r e a s f o l l o w s :
Working with live lobster

Lobster is best when purchased alive.
The first step in preparing a lobster
to boil or steam is to kill it. Lobsters
can also be split before they are
broiled or baked.
1.
Leave th e bands on th e lo b
ster's claws and lay it, stom ach side

down, on a w o rk surface. In se rt the
tip o f a chef's k n ife in to the base o f
the head. Pull th e k n ife all th e way
down th ro u g h th e shell, s p littin g the
head in half.
2.
S p lit th e ta il by re ve rsin g th e d i
re c tio n o f th e lo b s te r and p o s itio n in g

th e tip o f th e k n ife a t th e p o in t w here
you made you r in itia l cut. Then cut
th ro u g h th e shell o f th e ta il section.
413
Cooked lobster
The flesh of a lobster or other crustacean adheres tightly to the shell until it
has been cooked. Lobster that will be served out of the shell or used in salads,
stuffings, or as a garnish can be cooked whole by steaming, grilling, or deep
poaching. Once the lobster is cool enough to handle, the meat can be re
moved from the shell easily.
The edible meat can be removed from a lobster, as shown, to produce a
large tail portion and intact claw sections as well as smaller pieces from the
knuckles and legs. The lobsters tomalley (liver) and coral (eggs; only in fe
males) are removed and used as ingredients in stuffing, sauce, or butter.
1.
Hold th e ta il sectio n secu rely in one hand and hold th e body o f th e lo b
s te r w ith th e other. T w ist your hands in o p p o s ite d ire ctio n s, p u llin g th e ta il

away fro m th e body.
2.
Use scisso rs to cut down bo th sides o f the underside o f the lo b s te r ta il.
Pull the ta il m ea t o u t o f th e shell. It should come away in one piece.
414
M EATS, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
D.
Use th e heel o r back o f a c h e fs k n ife to crack th e claws.
4.
Use you r fin g e rs to p ry th e shell aw ay fro m th e m eat. The claw m eat
should also com e o u t in a single piece, re ta in in g th e shape o f th e claw.
5.
Use th e k n ife to cu t th ro u g h th e knuckles. Pull o u t th e knuckle m eat.
Chapter 16 F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
415
Shrimp
To clean shrimp, remove the shell and the vein that runs along the back of
the shrimp either before or after cooking. Shrimp that have been boiled or
steamed in the shell are moister and plumper than shrimp that were peeled
and deveined before cooking. Shrimp that will be served coldin appetizers
or salads, for examplecan be cooked in the shell. Shrimp dishes that are
sauteed or grilled usually call for the shrimp to be peeled and deveined before
cooking. The shells can be reserved for other uses, such as making shrimp
stock, bisque, or shellfish butters.
1.
To devein a shrim p, lay th e shelled shrim p on a w o rk surface, w ith the
curved o u te r edge on the same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Slice in to the
shrim p w ith a parin g or u tility kn ife ; make a shallow cu t f o r deveining o r a
deeper cu t f o r b u tte r f lying th e shrim p.
2.
Use th e t ip o f th e k n ife to scrape o u t th e "vein" (in te s tin a l tra c t).
3.
As an a lte rn a tiv e , to rem ove th e vein w ith o u t c u ttin g th e shrim p, hook it
w ith a to o th p ic k o r skew er and pu ll it o u t com p le te ly.
416
Cleaning soft-shell crab

A seasonal favorite, soft-shell crabs are considered a great delicacy. They are not
especially difficult to clean once their various parts are identified.
Soft-shell crabs are commonly prepared by sauteing or pan-frying, and
the shell may be eaten along with the meat.
1 .
Peel back th e p o in te d shell and scrape away the g ill fila m e n ts on each
side.
2 .
Cut the eyes and m outh away fro m the head ju s t behind the eyes, and
squeeze g e n tly to fo rc e o u t the green bubble, which has an unpleasant flavor.
3.
Bend back th e ta il fla p (or apron) and pu ll w ith a s lig h t tw is tin g m otion.
The in te s tin a l vein is drawn o u t o f th e body a t th e same tim e .
4.
The cleaned crab w ith th e ta il fla p , head, and g ill fila m e n ts removed.
417
Crayfish
Oysters
Open oysters by prying open the hinge holding the two shells together. When
Crayfish share many similarities with
opening oysters (and clams), be sure to reserve any juices, which are some
lobster, but they are much smaller. If
times referred to as liquor. The liquor adds great flavor to soups, stews, and
live, pick through them and discard
stocks.
any dead ones. (They can also be pur

chased frozen whole, or as just tails.)
1.
W ear a w ire mesh glove to hold the oyster, po sitio n e d so th a t the hinged
side is fa cin g outw ard. W ork the tip o f an o y s te r kn ife in to the hinge holding the
upper and low er shells to g e th e r and tw is t the kn ife to break open th e hinge.
2.
It is relatively simple to remove the

vein from the crayfish before cook
ing, though this may be done after
ward, if preferred.
Once open, slide the k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to release the
o y s te r fro m the shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e o y s te r fro m the

b o tto m shell.
Crayfish may be boiled or

steamed in the shell. They can be
served as is, whole, or they can be
peeled after cooking to pick out the
tail meat.
418
M EAT S. POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Clams
Mussels
Wear a wire mesh glove to protect the hand holding the clam. Work the side
Mussels are rarely served raw, but
of a clam knife into the seam between the upper and lower shells.
the method for cleaning them before
1.
steaming and poaching is similar to

Place th e clam in your hand so th a t the hinged side is to w a rd th e heel o f
that used for clams. Unlike clams
your hand. The fin g e rs o f you r gloved hand can be used to bo th help guide the
and oysters, mussels often have a
k n ife and give it e xtra fo rc e . T w ist th e blade s lig h tly , like a key in a lock, to
dark, shaggy beard. It is normally
p ry open th e shell.
removed before cooking.
2 .
shell. Removing the beard kills the
Pull the beard away from the

Once th e shell is open, slide th e k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to
release the clam fro m th e shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e clam fro m
mussel, so perform this step as close
th e b o tto m shell.
to service as possible.
419
Cleaning squid
Octopus and squid belong to a category of shellfish known as cephalopods.
They must be properly cleaned and cut to make the most of their flavor and
texture in any cooked dish. Small squid and octopi are tender and moist when
properly handled, even when cooked quickly and at high temperatures. Larger
ones are better prepared by braising or stewing.
The squid mantle can be cut into rings to saute, pan fry, or deep fry; or
the squid may be left whole to grill or braise, with or without a stuffing. If
desired, the ink sac can be saved and used to prepare various dishes, which
will turn a dramatic black color.
1.
Pull the mantle and the tentacles apart. The eye, ink sac, and intestines w ill
come away w ith the tentacles.
2.
Pull th e tra n s p a re n t q u ill fro m th e m an tle and discard.
3.
Pull away as much o f th e skin as po ssib le fro m th e m antle. D iscard the
skin.
420
cleaning octopus and squid
4.
Cut th e te n ta c le s away fro m th e head by m aking a cut ju s t be lo w the eye.
If desired, reserve th e ink sac. D iscard th e re s t o f the head.
D.
Open the te n ta c le s to expose th e beak. Pull it away and discard. The te n
ta cle s may be le ft w hole if th e y are sm all or cu t in to pieces if th e y are large.

Once th e squid is cleaned, rinse it in cold w ater.
421
Cleaning octopus
Octopus is typically sold already cleaned. However, you may occasionally
need to remove the viscera and beak (sometimes known as the eye). If the
octopus you purchase has already been cleaned, simply cut the head away
from the legs, and cut each piece into the appropriate size. Baby octopi are
typically cooked whole.
1.
Use a pa rin g k n ife to cu t around the eye" (beak) and l i f t it fro m the
octopus.
2.
Peel th e skin away fro m th e body by p u llin g firm ly .
3.
Pull the su ctio n cups away fro m the te n ta c le s if desired. The octo p u s is
ready to use.
422
roasting
Some cooking methods rely on dry heat without fats or oils. The food is
cooked either by a direct application of radiant heat (grilling and broiling)
or by indirect heat in an oven (roasting and baking). The result of these
cooking methods is a highly flavored exterior and a moist interior.
rilling
a n d
broiling
size or s m a l l e r
a re
quick
pieces of m eat
cooking
p o u ltr y
tec h n iq u es
or fish
By
u sed
for
c o n tra st
n a t u r a lly
ten d er
roasting and
a lo n g e r c o o king tim e an d a r e f r e q u e n t l y u sed w ith la r g e r cuts of m eat
,w
baking
portion
require
h o le birds
and
D R E S S E D FISH.
grilling, broiling,
and roasting
G rillin g cooks fo o d w ith rad ia nt heat fro m a source lo cated below it. Some o f th e ju ices are
reduced d ire c tly on the fo o d w hile th e re s t drip away. G rilled fo o d s have a s lig h tly sm oky
flavo r, re s u ltin g fro m th e ju ices and fa ts th a t are rendered and lig h tly charred as th e foo d
cooks, as w ell as fro m d ire c t co n ta ct w ith th e rods o f the g rill rack.
B ro ilin g is sim ila r to g rillin g b u t uses a heat source lo cated above th e fo o d ra th e r than
below it. The sauce th a t accom panies a g rille d o r b ro ile d ite m is prepared separately.
Tender p o rtio n -s iz e cuts o f p o u ltry, cuts o f m eat fro m the loin, rib, o r to p round, and
fille ts o f such f a t ty fis h as tuna, sw o rdfish , and salm on are su ite d to g rillin g and broiling.
Lean fis h or w hole sm all fis h such as Dover sole or sm all flo u n d e rs may also be g rille d or
b ro ile d i f th e y are coated w ith oil or an oil-based m arinade and cooked in a hinged hand g rill
to pre ven t them fro m bre aking a p a rt durin g th e cooking process. D elicate fo o d s like lean
w h ite fis h are brushed w ith b u tte r o r oil, put on a heated, oiled sizzler p la tte r, and placed
on the rack below th e b ro ile r's heat source. Some le ss-te n d e r cuts o f m eat, such as hanger
or fla n k steak, may also be used if the y are cut very thin.
When p re pa ring fo o d s fo r g rillin g o r broiling, all m ea t and fis h should be o f an even
thickness. Cut to an even thickn ess and pound lig h tly if necessary to fu rth e r even th ic k
ness. Very th ic k cuts o f m eat or fis h may also be b u tte r f lied so th a t the ite m may be cooked
fro m s ta rt to fin is h on the g rill or in the broiler. M ea t should be trim m e d o f excess fa t and
all silverskin and g ris tle . Some fo o d s are cu t in to strip s , chunks, o r cubes and the n th re a d
ed on to skewers. The fo o d its e lf should be seasoned and in some cases, lig h tly oiled.
D iffe re n t p a rts o f th e g rill or b ro ile r are h o tte r than others. D ivide th e g rill in to zones
o f varying heat in te n s ity , including a ve ry h o t sectio n fo r q u ickly searing fo o d s and cooking
them to a rare doneness, an area o f m od era te heat fo r cooking fo o d s to a m edium -rare or
m edium doneness, and an area o f low heat fo r slow cooking to a m edium -w ell or well. Low
heat can also be used to keep fo o d s warm . (If the g rill is w ood- or ch a rco a l-fire d , set aside
an area f o r ig n itin g the fue l; th is p a rt is to o h o t and sm oky to use to cook fo o d s d irectly.)
Zones may also be a lloca ted fo r d iffe re n t typ e s o f foo ds, to pre ven t an undesirable tra n s
fe r o f fla v o rs . D eveloping a system fo r placing fo o d s on the g rill or in th e broiler, w h e th e r
by fo o d ty p e or by range o f doneness, helps speed up w o rk on th e line.
W oods such as m esquite, hickory, o r apple are fre q u e n tly used to im p a rt special f la
vors. H ardw ood chips, herb stem s, grapevine trim m in g s, and o th e r aro m atics can be put
in a sm oker box (a s te e l box w ith holes) or w rapped in alum inum fo il w hich should be punc
tu re d w ith a fe w holes. E ith e r o f these m ethods w ill allow th e sm oke to perm ea te th e g rill
w ith o u t allow in g th e aro m atics to ignite.
G rills and b ro ile rs m ust be w ell m aintained and kep t clean to produce a g o o d -q u a lity
g rille d or broiled entree. Take the tim e to prepare the g rill before, during, and a fte r service.
424
Grilling or Broiling
Seasonings, including salt and
(1 en tree portion)
pepper or marinades, rubs, glazes,

or barbecue sauce, if desired
1 portion
(6
to
oz/170 to 227
Other accompaniments, including

compound butters, brown sauces,
vegetable coulis, or salsas
g) meat, poultry, or seafood
'I
method
at-a-glance
grilling and broiling
Q basic formula
expert tips
Thoroughly clean and

preheat the g rill or broiler.
Season the g rill with a light
coating o f oil.
To season the main ingredient, there aremanyoptions.

Apply each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking.
Season the main item and

marinate or brush it w ith
oil if necessary to prevent
sticking.
M A R IN A D E S (E x c e s s m a r in a d e s h o u ld be w ip e d o f f t h e it e m b e f o r e g r illin g
t o p r e v e n t f la r e u p s ) SPIC E R UBS / PRESALTING (M a s s a g e t h e s a lt o r ru b in to
t h e it e m . A llo w i t t o s e t o v e r n ig h t a n d t h e n r in s e a n d t h o r o u g h ly d r y b e f o r e
g r il lin g )
4. Place the main item on the
To add additional flavor,
g rill or broiler rods; use

a hand g rill fo r delicate
foods such as fish.
add items to the grill fire to create an
aromatic smoke, such as:

H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S
Turn the item 90 degrees

to produce crosshatch
marks, if desired.
6. Turn the item to complete
cooking to the desired
doneness.
A
Chapter 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
425
1. turn on the grill
or b ro ile r in advance
and allow th e heat to burn away old p a rtic u la te s fro m the

rods. Once any p a rtic u la te s have tu rn e d to w h ite ash, the y
may be brushed away w ith a w ire brush or w iped away w ith
a w e t cloth. W hen cleaning th e g rill w ith a clo th dipped in
oil be ca re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill cre
ate excess sm oke and fla re -u p . Clean and o il m etal skew
ers b e fo re use; soak wooden skew ers in w a te r to prevent
the m fro m cha rring to o much o r catch ing on fire . Hand
racks f o r d e lica te fo o d s or th o se th a t m ig h t be aw kw ard
to tu rn easily should also be cleaned and oiled between
uses to pre ve n t m ea t skin fro m s tic k in g and tearing.
S izzler p la tte rs , ton gs, o ffs e t spatulas, fle x ib le sp a tu
las, and brushes to ap ply glazes, m arinade, or barbecue
sauces should be p a rt o f th e g rill sta tio n 's eq uipm en t
m ise en place, as w e ll as all ite m s necessary fo r service
(heated plates, spoons, o r ladles).
It is necessary to keep th e rods clean during cooking.
A g rill brush should be on hand along w ith a damp to w e l fo r
w ipin g th e rods. If a fo o d is m arinate d in an oil-based m a ri
nade, excess o il should be drained o f f p rio r to g rillin g to
pre ve n t fla re -u p s. A ny fla re -u p w ill im p a rt an undesirable
fla v o r and p o or appearance to th e fo o d being cooked.
2. let the food cook undisturbed

on th e f ir s t side b e fo re tu rn in g it over. This develops b e t
te r fla v o r and also le ts th e fo o d s n a tural fa ts ( if any) help
release th e fo o d fro m th e g rill w ith o u t tea ring .
Place the seasoned fo o d on the pre he ated g rill or
b ro ile r rods to s ta rt coo kin g and to m ark it. The b e tte rlo o kin g (p re s e n ta tio n ) side always goes down on th e g rill
rods fir s t. W hen th e fo o d comes in to c o n ta c t w ith the
heated g rill rods, m arks are charred on to th e surface o f
th e fo o d . To m ark fo o d s w ith a crossh atch on a g rill, g e n tly
w o rk th e spa tula o r to n g s under th e fo o d , lift , and give it
a q u a rte r-tu rn (90 degrees). This is o fte n re fe rre d to as
th e 1 0 :0 0 / 2 :0 0 ' m arking m ethod, alluding to how tho se
tim e s are placed on a clo ck's face.
Because m any barbecue sauces con tain sugar and
burn easily, it is usually a good idea to p a rtia lly cook the
fo o d b e fo re a p plying th e sauce. T hat way, as th e fo o d
fin ish e s cooking, th e sauce glazes and caram elizes lig h tly
w ith o u t burning. A single co a t o f sauce m ay be applied
to each side o f th e fo o d , o r to build up a th icke r, s lig h tly
cru s ty co a t o f sauce, th e fo o d m ay be brushed re p e a te d ly
w ith lig h t coa ts o f sauce.
426
ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
3. turn the food over and con tinu e co o k

ing to th e de sire d doneness. Since m o st fo o d s cooked by
g rillin g o r b ro ilin g are re la tiv e ly th in and tender, th e y do
n o t req uire much m ore coo kin g tim e once th e y have been
tu rn e d over. T h icke r cuts or th o se th a t m ust be cooked to
a higher in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re m ay need to be moved to
a coo le r p o rtio n o f th e g rill o r b ro ile r so th a t th e y don't
develop a charred e xte rio r. (The b u tte r fly m ethod fo r
fa b ric a tin g s m a lle r cuts o f m ea t o r fis h may be ap plicab le
in th is case.) A n o th e r s o lu tio n is to rem ove th e th ic k e r
cuts fro m th e g rill o r b ro ile r a fte r th e y are m arked on
b o th sides and fin is h th e coo kin g in th e oven. For ban
quets, fo o d s can be q u ickly m arked on th e rods o f a g rill
or broiler, ju s t b a re ly c o o kin g th e o u te r layers o f th e fo o d .
They can the n be laid o u t on racks over she et pans and
fin is h e d in th e oven. This approach allow s you to expand
th e p o te n tia l o u tp u t o f th e g rill or bro ile r. For fo o d s a fe ty
reasons, exercise e xtre m e care in c h illin g p a rtia lly cooked
fo o d q u ickly if it is to be held fo r any length o f tim e.
Remove th e m ea t o r fis h when it is s till s lig h tly un d e r
done, so it does n o t end up overcooked by th e tim e it is
served. Even th in pieces o f m eat or fis h w ill re ta in some
heat, a llow in g th e m to cook a fte r th e y have been rem oved
fro m th e heat.
P ro p e rly pre pa red g rille d and b ro ile d fo o d s have
a d is tin c tly sm oky fla vo r, w hich is cre a te d by a lim ite d
am ount o f c h a rrin g and enhanced by th e a d d itio n o f h a rd
w ood o r herb sprigs to th e g rill. This sm oky fla v o r and
arom a should n o t ove rpo w er th e fo o d 's na tural flavo r, and
th e ch a rrin g should n o t be so exte nsive th a t it gives the
fo o d a b itte r o r c arbonized ta s te . Any m arinades or glazes
should s u p p o rt and n o t m ask th e fo o d s n a tural flavo r.
PAN GRILLING
Pan grilling involves cooking foods on the
consider, however, that pan grilling will
stove over intense heat in a heavy cast-iron
not impart the same flavor as will tradi
or other warp-resistant metal pan with a
tional grilling. Grills and broilers must be
ridged interior bottom. The thick ridges

create marks similar to a grill and hold
well maintained and kept clean to produce

a good-quality grilled or broiled entree.
the food up and away from any juices or
Take the time to prepare the grill before,
fat that might collect. It is important to
during, and after service.
c h a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
427
The
fla v o r
a nd
a r o m a
of
fo o d
th a t
has
BEEN w e l l
r o a sted
c o n t r ib u t e
to
an
o v e r a ll
S E N S A T IO N O F F U L L F L A V O R , R IC H N E S S , A N D D E P T H . T h e CO LO R H A S A D IR E C T B E A R IN G ON T H E FL A V O R
AS W E L L AS A P P E A R A N C E . F O O D S TH A T A R E TOO PALE LACK E Y E A P P E A L A N D D E P T H OF FLA V O R . W E L L R O A S T E D F O O D S A R E T E N D E R A N D M O I S T . T h E S K I N , I F L E F T O N T H E F O O D , S H O U L D BE C R I S P , C R E A T I N G
A C O N T R A S T W IT H T H E T E X T U R E OF T H E MEAT.
roasting
Roasting, w h ethe r by pan roasting, baking, sm oke-roasting, or poeleing, is a way o f cooking
by in d ire c t heat in an oven. The te rm baking is o fte n used interchangeably w ith roasting; how
ever, it is m ost ty p ic a lly used in relation to breads, cakes, pastries, and the like.
S p it-ro a s tin g and ro tis s e rie cooking are m ore like g rillin g or bro iling . Cooking involves
placing the fo o d on a rod, which is tu rn e d e ith e r m anually or w ith a m otor. The ra d ia n t heat
given o f f by a fire or gas je t cooks the fo o d w hile co n sta n t tu rn in g creates a b a stin g e ffe c t
and ensures th a t th e fo o d cooks evenly.
R oasting is more sim ilar to baking than it is to s p it-ro a s tin g or ro tisse rie cooking. In an
oven, roasted fo o d s are cooked through con tact w ith dry heated air held in a closed environ
ment. As the o u te r layers become heated, the food's natural juices tu rn to steam and pen
e tra te the fo o d more deeply. The rendered juices, also called pan drippings or fond, are the
fou nda tion fo r sauces prepared w hile the roa st rests.
S m o ke -ro a stin g is an a d a p ta tio n o f ro a stin g th a t allow s fo o d s to ta ke on a rich, sm oky
flavo r. The fo o d cooks in a tig h tly closed en viro nm en t or in a sm oking setup. This can be
done over an open fla m e or in the oven.
R oasting com m only re fe rs to cooking large, n a tu ra lly tender, m u ltip o rtio n m eat cuts,
whole p o u ltry, and dressed fish . Tender m eats fro m the rib, loin, and leg give th e be st re
sults. Trim away any excess f a t and silverskin . A layer o f fa t o r p o u ltry skin helps to baste
fo o d s n a tu ra lly as th e y roast. Season m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h b e fo re ro a stin g to fu lly de
velop th e ir flavo r. For a d d itio n a l fla v o r during roasting, fre s h herbs or a ro m a tic vegetables
may be used to s t u f f th e c a vity o f b irds or fis h or in se rte d under p o u ltry skin.
A good ro a stin g pan has re la tiv e ly low sides to allow hot air to c ircu la te fre e ly . S elect a
pan th a t holds the fo o d c o m fo rta b ly b u t is not so large th a t th e pan ju ice s scorch. Food to
be roa ste d may be se t on a ro a stin g rack or elevated by aro m atics, which p e rm its the hot
air to co n ta c t all o f the fo o d s surfaces. The pan should rem ain uncovered.
The oven should be preheated. There are d iffe re n t techniques regard ing oven te m p e r
atu re s fo r roa sting . Some ite m s are ro a ste d very qu ickly a t high te m p e ra tu re s. O thers are
begun a t low te m p e ra tu re s, then fin ish e d a t a higher te m p e ra tu re . S till o th e rs are s ta rte d
at a high te m p e ra tu re , then fin ish e d at a low er te m p e ra tu re . Roast large cuts such as prim e
rib a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t roa sting . S ta rt sm aller or m ore de lica te
fo o d s a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re (30 0 to 3 2 5 F /1 4 9 to 163C) and then brown
the m a t th e very end o f ro a stin g by increasing th e oven to 3 5 0 to 3 7 5 F /1 7 7 to 191C.
You may need butcher's tw in e or skewers, as w ell as an in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r and
a kitche n fo rk . Have an a d d itio n a l pan to hold the roa ste d fo o d w hile a sauce is made fro m
the pan drippings. S tra in e rs and skim m ers or ladles are needed to prepare the sauce. Have
a carving board and an e xtre m e ly sharp carving k n ife nearby fo r fin a l service.
428
roasting
b a sic fo rm u la
Roasting Meat,
Poultry, or Seafood
l o z / 2 8 g Mirepoix (page
PAN GRAVY
2 4 3 ),p e r l l b / 4 5 4 g m e a t
Stock (fo rtifie d or regular)
(1 roast)
Seasonings
Mirepoix or other
1 roast meat, poultry, or seafood

trimm ed as desired, trussed or tied
aromatic vegetables
2 fl o z /6 0 mL prepared pan
sauce, pan gravy, or other sauce
A thickener such as roux or pure
as appropriate per portion
starch slurry; in some cases, the

pureed mirepoix may be used
to thicken, and reduction is also
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
used to thicken pan sauces
ex p ert tips
j . Season, s tu ff, m arinate,

bard, or lard th e main item ,
and sear it over d ire c t heat
or in a h ot oven, i f desired.
2. Elevate th e ite m in a
ro a stin g pan so th a t h o t air
can reach all sides.
To develop additional flavo r and color,
sear the item
before roasting. Once the foods have been seasoned and tied or trussed, they
may be seared in hot fa t on the stovetop, under a broiler, or in a very hot oven.
Searing is an effective way to develop flavor and color in longer, slower cook
ing methods.
3. R oast th e ite m uncovered

u n til the desired in te rn a l
Basting is a technic|ue
te m p e ra tu re is reached. Be
food is lean and does not release enough fa t of its own for basting, any one of
sure to allow fo r carryover
the following may be used:
th a t both adds flavor and moisture. If the
cooking.
M ELTED B U TTE R / OIL / M A R IN A D E S
4 . Add the m ire p o ix to the

ro a stin g pan fo r pan gravy
during th e fin a l h a lf hour o f
ro a stin g tim e , i f desired.
5. L e t th e roa sted ite m re st
b e fo re carving.
Pan sear items th a t are sma Her or have a smooth fia t sur
face such as a striploin. Oven sear items th a t have an irregular shape. Oven
tem perature fo r searing should be set at 4 2 5 to 4 5 0 /2 1 8 to 232C
If roasts are drastically trim m ed , an alternative "skin"

should be added in the form of a coating or crust. D iffe ren t ingredients may be
6 . Prepare the pan gravy in
combined with a small amount o f fa t and used to form this crust, such as:
th e ro a stin g pan.
BARDING: T y in g t h in s h e e ts o f f a t b a c k , b a c o n , o r c a u l f a t a ro u n d a fo o d
7. Carve th e main ite m

and serve it w ith th e
SEA S O N ED D RIED POTATO FLAK ES / RICE FLA K ES / C O R N FLA K E S /
a p p ro p ria te gravy or sauce.
C O R N M E A L / FIN E L Y G R O U N D D RIED M U S H R O O M S
Items may also beglazed
to add flavor. To do this, use a stock-
based or fruit-based liquid.
Foods such as whole birds , chicken breasts, and chops may

be stuffed before roasting. Season the stuffing and chill it to below 4 0F/4C
before combining it with raw meat, fish, or poultry. Allow enough tim e for the
seasonings to interact with the food before roasting.
chapter 17 GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OA S TI NG
429
COOKING SLOW AND LOW: SMOKING AND BARBECUING

These techniques continue to grow in pop
other ingredients that can bum easily.
ularity with diners and can be a profitable
Such sauces should be added at the end of
addition to a menu for any chef, presum
the cooking process or applied to the fin
ing they have the correct equipment and
ished product or served on the side.
use the proper techniques.

SMOKING
The technique of smoking cooks meat at
a low temperature for a lengthy period of
time, infusing it with flavor from the smoke
and making it very tender by the end of
the cooking process. Chefs can use tough
cuts of meat for smoking, as the length of
the cooking will break down the connec
The type o f wood used during the smoking

process will affect the final flavor o f the
meat. It is important to remember that
different types of wood will impart different
flavors into the meat, and some woods may
overpower certain cuts o f meat. Commonly
used woods include mesquite, cherry,
hickory, alder, pecan, and apple.
The correct spacing of the meat in the
tive tissues in the meat. Some cuts that are
smoker is crucial to even cooking. Be cer
ideal for smoking include beef brisket, pork
tain that there is enough space between
shoulder, and beef or pork ribs.
pieces o f meat so that air and smoke can

circulate evenly around the meat as it
TIPS FOR SM OKING AND

BARBECUING
cooks.
A smoke ring is a sign o f well-smoked
Most recipes call for excess fat and gristle
meat. It is created by a buildup o f nitric
to be trimmed from meat prior to cooking.
acid on the surface o f the meat, which is
However, it is important not to remove too
then absorbed into the meat. After cooking,
much fat from cuts o f meat that are to be
a ring, slightly pink in color, can be found
used for smoking and barbecuing. The fat
just under the outer crust. It can range in
present (especially the fat cap on the sur
thickness, but it is generally desired to be
face o f the meat) will keep the meat moist
Va to 14 in/6 to 12 mm.
during cooking. If too much fat is trimmed

from the meat, the meat will easily dry out
REGIONAL STYLE DIFFERENCES
over the length of cooking time required for
Smoking, barbecuing, and other slow-and-
these methods.
low cooking styles are popular throughout
Dry rubs are ideal for this type of cooking,

because they season the meat and provide
excellent flavor without burning during
cooking. Barbecue sauces and marinades,
while flavorful, tend to contain sugar and
430
the world. Countries across Asia, Europe,

and the Caribbean have a wide range of
barbequing techniques as unique as the
regions themselves. In North America,
there are seven primary regional styles.
Texas: B eef and sausages. Known for a
the primary choice o f meat for barbecue,
thick, smokier sauce flavored with chiles
and sauces are thin and flavored
and spices such as cumin.
primarily with vinegar and ketchup or
St. Louis: Pork ribs. A mild tomato-based
another tomato product.
sauce. Not as thick as Kansas City-style,
South Carolina: Also pork, and sauces are
and not as spicy as Texas-style.
also thin and vinegar-based, but flavored
Memphis: Pork shoulder. Thin, tomato-
heavily with mustard and other spices.
based sauce that is often poured over ribs
Kansas City: Both beef and pork are
after cooking.
popular, and the sauces are thick, sweet,
Kentucky: Mutton. Known for its
and tomato-based.
distinctive black sauce, which is
roasting
North Carolina: Porkthe whole hogis
flavored with bourbon, Worcestershire

sauce, and molasses.
The interior o f a commercial smoker
This smoked brisket exhibits a distinct smoke

ring, the pink ring ju s t under its outer crust.
Chapter 17 GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D ROA S TI NG
431
1. use the fat and juices
released by
th e fo o d its e lf f o r a tra d itio n a l b a stin g liquid. However, a

sep ara te b a s tin g liquid, such as a m arinade, glaze, o r f la
vore d o r plain b u tte r, may also be used.
Once th e fo o d has been seasoned and tie d or tru sse d ,
if necessary, it may be seared in h o t fa t on the s to ve to p ,
under a b ro ile r, o r in a ve ry h o t oven. Some fo o d s are not
seared, e sp ecially large cuts, since an extended ro a stin g
tim e w ill produce a de ep ly colore d e x te rio r even w ith o u t
an in itia l searing.
A rrange th e fo o d on a w ire rack in a s tra ig h t-s id e d
ro a s tin g pan. (The rack w ill help im prove air circu latio n.)
There should be enough room in th e pan so th a t fo o d f it s
c o m fo rta b ly and has enough space around it to allow fo r
th e a d d itio n o f aro m atics.
Place it in a pre he ated oven. Roast, a d ju sting oven
te m p e ra tu re as necessary. Baste as necessary th ro u g h o u t
cooking tim e (as shown in photograph).
B astin g re tu rn s som e m o is tu re to th e fo o d , p re v e n t
ing it fro m d ryin g out. The b a stin g liquid also im p a rts ad
d itio n a l flavo r. A lte rn a tiv e b a stin g liquids such as m elte d
b u tte r, oil, o r m arinades are p a rtic u la rly use ful if the fo o d
is lean and does n o t release enough f a t o f its own fo r
basting. For a pan sauce o r gravy, add m ire p o ix o r o th e r
a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e ro a s tin g pan, if desired.
2. use an instant-read
th e rm o m e te r to
de te rm in e doneness in ro a ste d fo o d s. To g e t th e m ost

accu rate read, th e th e rm o m e te r m ust be in se rte d a t least
as fa r as th e sm all d im ple on th e stem . N o tice th a t the
ste m is in se rte d in to th e ite m s th ic k e s t pa rt, away fro m
any bones.
R oast fo o d s to th e c o rre c t doneness and le t them
re s t b e fo re serving. M eats, fish, p o u ltry , and game are
g e n e ra lly cooked to a s p e c ifie d in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re
(see page 36 7). When th e fo o d is nearly done, rem ove it
fro m th e pan and allow it to rest. Cover the fo o d loosely
w ith fo il to keep it m o is t and place it in a w arm s p o t to
re st. R esting plays a key role in ca rryo ve r cooking, which
should be th o u g h t o f as th e la s t stage o f cooking. A llo w a
re s tin g pe rio d o f a b o u t 5 m inutes f o r sm all item s, 15 to
20 m in utes f o r m edium item s, and up to 45 m in utes fo r
ve ry large roa sts. This is done because as fo o d s roast,
th e ir ju ice s becom e co n ce n tra te d in th e center. A re stin g
p e rio d b e fo re c u ttin g in to th e fo o d gives th e ju ice s tim e
to re d is trib u te evenly th ro u g h o u t. R esting also le ts the
te m p e ra tu re o f th e fo o d equalize, which b e n e fits te x tu re ,
arom a, and fla vo r.
432
roasting
3. serve roasted foods w ith a pan sauce

based on th e accu m ulated drip p in g s fro m th e fo o d . Jus
and pan gra vy are th e m o st fre q u e n tly p re pa red pan
sauces. Onions, ca rro ts , celery, g a rlic, o r o th e r a ro m a tic
veg etab le s o r herbs added to th e pan du rin g ro a stin g
w ill have brow ned and ro a ste d in the dripp ing s. They w ill
have a deep c o lo r and w ill have absorbed som e o f the
fla v o r fro m th e drip p in g s, so th a t th e y can p ro p e rly fla v o r
and co lo r th e fin is h e d pan sauce. B e fo re p re p a rin g any
pan sauce, be sure th a t th e drip p in g s are n o t scorched.
Scorched d rip p in g s re s u lt in a b itte r, unpa lata ble sauce.
To make a pan gravy, place th e ro a s tin g pan on th e
s to v e to p and cook th e drip p in g s over m edium heat u n til
th e m ire p o ix is brow ned and th e f a t is tra n s p a re n t and
clear. The ju ice s w ill have sep ara te d fro m th e f a t and
cooked down to a fo n d on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. For a pan
gravy, pour o f f th e fa t, b u t leave enough to pre pa re a roux
by coo kin g th e f a t and som e flo u r to g e th e r. If p re p a rin g a
jus, flo u r is n o t used.
4. after the roux browns, gradually

add the sto ck to the pan and s tir c on stantly to w ork out any
lumps. Be sure the liquid is n o t to o hot or it may spatter.
Add th e s to c k and sim m e r th e pan g ra vy o r jus. Cook
a pan gra vy u n til th icke n e d and th e fla v o r has developed,
b u t f o r a m inim um o f 2 0 m in u te s to ensure th e sta rch in
the flo u r is s u ffic ie n tly cooked. To prepare a jus, pour o f f
all o f th e rem a ining f a t and deglaze th e pan, if desired,
w ith w ine o r a n o th e r liquid. A dd a s to c k th a t s u its the
ro a ste d fo o d . S im m e r u n til th e fla v o r is w e ll developed,
15 to 20 m inutes. S kim th e ju s as it sim m ers to rem ove
f a t and p a rtic le s fro m th e surface. A jus m ay be cooked
down u n til th icke n e d , o r to pre pa re a ju s lie, th icke n the
ju s w ith an a rro w ro o t o r co rn sta rch s lu rry ju s t b e fo re
strain in g.
C hapter 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
433
5. use a fine-mesh sieve
to stra in
th e pan gra vy or ju s in to a clean h o ld ing co n ta in e r fo r

storag e o r in to a pan to keep w arm f o r service. Hold the
fin is h e d pan gra vy o r jus in a steam ta b le or w a te r bath
like any o th e r sauce. Hold a ju s by covering it w ith a tig h tly
f it t in g lid.
BARDING AND LARDING

Two traditional preparation techniques
will not have the same moisture-retention
for roasted foods that are naturally lean
effect as the fatback, but it will add plenty
are barding (tying thin sheets of fatback,
of flavor.
bacon, or caul fat around a food) and lard
434
Today, due to increased concerns over
ing (inserting small strips of fatback into
the amount of fat in diets, often every trace
a food). The extra fat provides additional
of visible fat or skin is removed in an effort
flavor and also helps keep the meat tender
to reduce fat in the fined dish, even though
and juicy. Venison, wild boar, game birds,
the amount of fat released from skin or fat
and certain cuts of beef or lamb are candi
layers as foods roast does not penetrate
dates for barding or larding.
far into the meat. Fat and skin provide
Variations using different products are

also employed to give different flavors to
of an oven without dramatically changing
roasted foods. For example, rather than
the amount of fat in the meat, and foods
being larded with fatback, a roast may be
stripped of their natural protection of fat
studded with slivers of garlic. The garlic
or skin can become dry and lose flavor.
some protection from the drying effects
it e m
. T h e t h r e e it e m s c a r v e d o n t h e f o l l o w i n g p a g e s a w h o l e d u c k , a r ib r o a s t o f b e e f ,
A N D A H A M S H O U L D BE C O N S I D E R E D P R O T O T Y P E S F O R O T H E R M E A T S . F O R E X A M P L E , B E C A U S E T H E Y
A R E S I M I L A R I N S T R U C T U R E , A L E G O F L A M B W O U L D BE C A R V E D IN T H E S A M E M A N N E R A S T H E H A M .
carving
techniques
carving techniques
L a r g e r o a s t e d f o o d s m u s t be c a r v e d o r c u t in t o p o r t io n s c o r r e c t l y to m a k e t h e m o s t o f
th e
Carving a roast duck

When a guest orders duck, this pre
sentation is the most user friendly.
Most of the bones are removed so
that the leg portion has only the
drumstick bone and the breast por
tion has a single wing bone. The two
are nestled together so that the bone
less breast and thigh meat overlap.
The guest can simply cut into the
meat without having to work around
bones.
1 .
Cut th e legs away fro m the
body a t th e p o in t w here th e leg

m ee ts th e bre ast. Pull th e leg away
fro m th e body to reveal th e jo in t;
cut th ro u g h th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t
jo in t to sever it c o m p le te ly.
2.
Use th e boning k n ife to cut
along e ith e r side o f th e keel bone.
chapter 17 GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OAS TI NG
435
Carving a roast duck, continued
3.
Carve th e b re a s t away fro m th e rib cage w ith as litt le trim loss as pos
sible by m aking th e edge o f th e blade run as close to th e bones as you can.
4.
Pull th e th ig h bone up and aw ay fro m th e th ig h m eat. Use th e k n ife as
shown to sep ara te th e bone a t th e leg jo in t.
5 .
To nest th e leg and b re a s t p o rtio n s fo r p re se n ta tio n , p o s itio n th e leg p o r
tio n on th e b o tto m and th e b re a s t p o rtio n ove rla p p in g th e leg, w ith th e d ru m

s tic k bone and th e w ing bone on o p p o s ite sides.
436
carving techniques
Carving a beef rib roast
Carving ham in the dining room
A beef rib roast is a large cut and is
This carving method may also be
2.
easiest to handle when turned on its
used for legs of lamb and steamship
large, begin to cu t th e m ea t a t a s lig h t
side. This carving method can also
rounds.
angle, f ir s t fro m th e le ft side, then
be used for a rack of veal or venison.

These smaller roasts need not be
W hen th e slices becom e very
fro m th e rig h t side, a lte rn a tin g u n til

1 .
A fte r th e end piece has been
turned on their sides, and cuts are
cu t away, make p a ra lle l cuts fro m
made from top to bottom between
th e shank end down th e bone. Con
the bones. The meat can be cut away
tin u e c u ttin g slices o f m ea t fro m
from the bones to make slices or the
th e leg, c u ttin g aw ay fro m th e bone
bones may be left in place to produce
to make even slices. The in itia l cuts
chops.
are made v e rtic a lly , u n til th e bone
th e leg is e n tire ly sliced.
is reached.
1 .
Lay th e rib ro a s t on its side.
Using a slicin g kn ife , make p a rallel

cuts fro m th e o u te r edge to w a rd
the bones. Use th e k n ife tip to cut
th e slices o f m ea t away fro m the
bone. S to re cu t side up if necessary
to pre ve n t ju ic e loss.
437
Carving a ham in the kitchen

1.
Stand th e ham on end, w ith th e s irlo in end re s tin g on th e board. Hold
th e shank end w ith your g u id ing hand to keep th e ham stab le. M ake a cut
in to th e lean m eat ju s t below th e s tifle jo in t on th e shank end and fo llo w the
n a tural curve o f th e fem ur. Cut close to th e bone f o r th e b e st yield.
2.
A t th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t jo in t, cu t around the jo in t. This f ir s t cut w ill not
co m p le te ly cu t th e m eat away fro m th e bone. Remove th e to p piece o f m eat

fro m th e aitch bone.
3.
Repeat th e same sequence o f cuts on th e second side o f th e bone to
c o m p le te ly fre e th e m eat. The m ea t w ill appear to have a V-shaped notch

where it was cu t aw ay fro m th e bone.
438
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4.
C ut aw ay th e m ea t fro m th e back side o f th e fem ur. Try to keep the
pieces o f m ea t as in ta c t as possible.
5 .
Cut th e la rg e r pieces o f ham in to m anageable pieces th a t can be sliced
in to p o rtio n s.
6 .
Carve th e ham in to slices w ith a s lice r as shown. The ham could also be
sliced on an e le c tric m ea t slicer.
439
Grilled or Broiled
Sirloin Steak with
Mushroom Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks
1
tb s p /lO g s a lt
Makes 32 fl
0Z/960
mL
V/2 o z/4 3 g minced shallot

2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sliced white mushrooms
8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g whole butter, diced
Salt, as needed
20 ft o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.

2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper.
3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis
turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the
1 . Sweat the shallots in the clarified butter in a small

rondeau over medium heat.
2 . Add the mushrooms and saute over high heat, stir

ring often, until the juices have cooked away.
3 . Add the wine to deglaze the pan. Cook until the

wine is reduced by two-thirds.
4 . Add the demi-glace and simmer until the sauce has a
desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare
good consistency and flavor, about 5 minutes. Finish
(internal temperature of i35F/57C), 6V2 min
the sauce with the whole butter (monte au beurre).
utes for medium-rare (i45F/63C), 8 minutes for
5 . Season with salt and pepper. The sauce is ready to
medium (i6oF/7iC), 9 minutes for medium-
serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger
well (i65F/74C), and 11 minutes for well-done
ated for later use.
(i7 0 0F/77C).
5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl

oz/6o mL sauce.
G rilled o r B roiled S irlo in S teak w ith M a itre dH o te l
B u tte r: Replace the mushroom sauce w ith 10 oz/2 84
g Maitre dHotel B utter (page 300), piped or sliced into
ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings. Top each cooked steak w ith the
butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the
bu tte r begins to melt. Serve at once.
440
Mushroom Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Marchand de Vin Sauce

2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot
2
thyme sprigs
bay leaf
Ten 1 0 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks
V2 tsp / 1 g cracked black peppercorns
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper
Salt, as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Marchand de Vin

Sauce (recipe follows)

2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Brush lightly
with oil.


(internal temperature of 135F/57C), 6V2 min
4 o z /1 13 g butter, diced
1 . Combine the shallots, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns,

and wine in a small rondeau. Bring the mixture to a
boil and reduce to a syrupy consistency, about 5 min
utes.
2.. Add the demi-glace and reduce to a nappe consis

tency, 8 to 10 minutes.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce. Finish

with butter.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be rapidly


medium (i6oF/7iC), 9 minutes for medium-
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled or Broiled
Sirloin with Marchand
de Vin Sauce
well (i65F/74C), and 11 minutes for well-done

(i70F/77C).
5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl

oz/6o mL sauce.
c h a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
441
Seitan Satay
Makes 10 servings
SEITAN
2 o z/5 7 g diced shallot
V 2 o z/1 4 g seeded and minced jalapeno
'/ 2
V2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL soy sauce
5 . For the peanut sauce, heat the peanut oil in a me

dium saute pan over medium heat. Stir in the curry
paste and turmeric until the mixture bubbles slight
ly, about 1 minute.
6 . Stir in the peanut butter, coconut milk, stock, lime
juice, and chili sauce and reduce the heat to low.
Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. When the
liquid begins to bubble, remove from the heat and
continue to stir for 1 minute. Add the peanuts, and
reserve for service.
7 . Thread the marinated seitan onto the skewers. Grill

the seitan until nicely browned and heated through,
2 V2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice

2 o z/5 7 g honey
2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 lb 14 o z/851 g seitan, cubed or
cut into V 4-in /6-m m strips
SPICY PEANUT SAUCE
2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil
V2 o z/1 4 g Red Curry Paste (page 370)
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric
9 o z/2 5 5 g peanut butter
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL coconut milk
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)
3 tb sp /4 5 mL lime juice
2 'A f I o z/7 5 mL sweet Thai chili sauce
6 o z /1 7 0 g peanuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
1 . For the seitan, heat the olive oil in a small saute pan
over low heat. Add the shallots and jalapenos and
saute until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic
and ginger and saute until aromatic, about 1 minute
more. Transfer to a blender or food processor.
2 . Add the soy sauce, lime juice, sesame oil, honey, and
cilantro. Pulse until smooth. If the mixture is too
thick and pasty, add water 1 tbsp/15 mL at a time to
create a thick marinade.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a shallow hotel pan, and add

the seitan. Turn to coat each piece. Marinate, cov
ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to
overnight.
4 . Soak wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.
442
3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve with spicy peanut

sauce.
Makes 10 servings
8 . Remove the steaks from the grill and allow them to

rest for 5 minutes in a warm place. Slice each steak on
the bias into 5 pieces.
MARINADE
9 . Serve immediately with the vegetables.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sake
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL mirin
3 3/4 o z /1 0 6 g sugar
21/4 o z/6 4 g grated apple
Barbecued Steak with

Herb Crust
Makes 10 servings
10 beef skirt steaks (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g each)

1 lb /4 5 4 g snow peas
HERB CRUST
6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs
20 medium white mushrooms caps
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, melted
1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts
V 2 o z/1 4 g parsley, chopped
l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt
lt s p /3 g s a lt
1 . To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, sake,
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
mirin, and sugar in a medium sauce pot and bring to

a boil. Remove from the heat, add the apple, and mix
STEAKS
well. Cool completely.
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks
2 . Pour the marinade over the steaks in a hotel pan.

Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
up to overnight.
Beef Teriya
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
3 . Cut the snow peas diagonally in 2 or 3 pieces.

4 . Heat the oil in a saute pan or wok over medium-high

heat. Add the mushroom caps, bean sprouts, and
snow peas and saute until just tender. Season with
salt. Reserve warm.
5 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade

from the steaks; blot dry if necessary.

(internal temperature of i35F/57C), 6V2 min
medium (i6oF/7iC), 9 minutes for mediumwell (i65F/74C), and 11 minutes for well-done
(i70F/77C).
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475; o p tio n a l)
2.. Combine all of the ingredients for the herb crust and
blend well. Reserve.
3 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper, rub with gar
lic, and lightly brush with oil.

rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil the steaks
undisturbed for about 2 minutes.
5 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de

sired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal
temperature of 135F/57C), 6V2 minutes for mediumrare (i45F/63C), 8 minutes for medium (i6oF/7iC),
9 minutes for medium-well (i65F/74C), and 11 min
utes for well-done (i70F/77C).
6 . Top the steaks with the herb crust and brown the top
ping under a salamander or broiler. Serve the steaks at
once, with barbecue sauce if desired.
445
Skewered Beef and

Scallions
Makes
10
servings
Grilled Rib Eye Steak

Makes
10
servings
MARINADE
MARINADE
2 f I o z/6 0 mL sesame oil
V 2 o z/1 4 g ground black pepper

1 bunch rosemary, roughly chopped
l'/2 o z/4 3 g sugar

BEEF
'/2
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g minced ginger
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g boneless rib eye steaks

1 o z/2 8 g salt
V 2 o z /1 4 g ground black pepper
BEEF
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg beef flank steak, cut
1 by 4 b y/s in /3 by 10 cm by 3 mm
6 bunches green onions, cut into
pieces 3'/2 in /9 cm long
1 . Preheat the grill.

2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a
hotel pan. Add the steaks and marinate, covered, in
the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

hotel pan. Add the beef and marinate, covered, in
the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.
2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the

beef on the skewers, alternating with the green
onions.

4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the
grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un
disturbed for about 1 minute. ( Optional: Give each
skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the

desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera
ture of i45F/63C.
6 . Serve immediately.
3 . Wipe excess marinade from the steaks. Season with

salt and pepper. Place the steaks presentation side
down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill
or broil undisturbed for about 2 minutes.
( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve
grill marks.)
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de

sired doneness, or a minimum internal temperature
o f i45F/63C.
Dill Sauce
(Raznjici)
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
Makes 10 servings
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 294)

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
MARINADE
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lemon juice
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil
3 tb s p /9 g chopped dill
Salt, as needed
4 o z /1 1 3 g s lic e d onion
P /4 o z/5 0 g thinly sliced garlic

2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
In a medium sauce pot, warm the veloute to a gentle

simmer, about i 85F/85C. Temper the sour cream
and add it to the veloute.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless veal top round,

cut into l /2-in /4-c m cubes
Stir in the dill. Return to just below a simmer, about
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin, cut

into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes
warm for service.
i8oF/82C. Season with salt and pepper. Hold
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
l
'/2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
GARNISH
12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced onion
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Dill Sauce (recipe follows)

hotel pan. Add the meats. Marinate, covered, in the
Pork and Veal Skewers
refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.
2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the

meats onto the skewers. Allow any excess marinade
to drain from the meat before grilling or broiling;
blot if necessary. Season with salt and pepper.

4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the
disturbed for 3 to 4 minutes.
5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking, 3 to 4

minutes more, or to a minimum internal tempera
ture of 145F/63C. Brush the meat with additional
marinade as it broils or grills.
6 . Serve immediately with the sliced onions and dill
sauce.
B roiled Lamb Kebabs w ith P im iento B u tte r: Replace the
veal and pork w ith an equal to ta l amount o f boneless
lamb leg. Replace the dill sauce w ith Pimiento Butter
(page 300).
c h a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G . A N D RO AS TING
447
Grilled Smoked Iowa

Pork Chops
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider
Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /3 0 mL applejack brandy
10 loin pork chops (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g each)
l
/ 2
tsp/B g ground black pepper

20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Apple Cider Sauce (recipe follows)
10 servings Caramelized Apples (recipe follows)
2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg Braised Red Cabbage (page 7 1 1)
3 thyme sprigs
5 black peppercorns, crushed
1 bay leaf
Slurry (see page 247), as needed
1 . Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Heat the
oil in a large sauce pot over medium-high heat. Add
1 . Heat 6 charcoal briquettes on a rack over the direct

flame of a burner until red hot.
2 . Place the pork on a wire rack on a sheet pan in a cold

oven.
the pork and cook until evenly browned on all sides.

Remove the meat from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook until caramel

ized.
3 . Carefully transfer the coals to a half hotel pan. Sprin

kle them with wood chips to create smoke.
4 . Place the pan of smoking wood chips indirectly
3 . Deglaze with the cider and applejack. Reduce by half.

4 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the stock, thyme, pep
percorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer (between
under the pork. Close the oven door and smoke the
i8oF and i85F/82C and 85C) and cook until
pork for at least 10 but no more than 15 minutes. Do
reduced by half, skimming as necessary, 25 to 30 min
not oversmoke.
utes.
5 . Remove the pork and refrigerate, covered, until

needed. Pour water over the coals to extinguish
5 . Thicken with a slurry, if necessary. Strain and hold

hot for service.
them. Dispose of them when cold.

6 . Preheat the grill. Season the pork with salt and pep
per and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops
presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill un
disturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each
chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
7 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to

an internal temperature of 145F/63C.
8 . Heat the apple cider sauce, caramelized apples, and
Caramelized Apples
Makes 10 servings
8 seasonal apples
Juice of 2 lemons
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
Salt, as needed
braised red cabbage. Serve each chop with 4V2 oz/128

g cabbage, 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce, and about 6 apple
1 . Peel and core the apples. Cut each apple into 8

wedges. Sprinkle half of the lemon juice over the
wedges.
apples to prevent oxidation.
Apple Cider Sauce

Makes 32 fl
0Z/960
mL
8 o z/2 2 7 g lean pork trim, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes

l t s p /3 g s a lt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
448
2 . Combine the sugar with the remaining lemon juice

in a large saute pan and mix well. Caramelize the
sugar over high heat.
3 . Carefully add the apple slices and coat with the cara
melized sugar. Season lightly with a pinch of salt.
Reserve warm.
Grilled or Broiled Pork

Chops with Sherry
Vinegar Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Sherry Vinegar Sauce

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL sherry vinegar
3 o z/8 5 g dark brown sugar
26 fl o z/7 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page
2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
10 bone-in pork chops (about 12

o z/3 4 0 g each, 2 in /5 cm thick)
Salt, as needed
V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, diced

20 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar
1 . Prepare a gastrique as follows: Cook the vinegar and

sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat
until the mixture comes to a boil and the sugar is

2 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and lightly
brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation
side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods.
Grill or broil undisturbed for 8 to 10 minutes. (Op
tional: Give each chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill
marks.)
3 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to a

minimum internal temperature of i45F/63C.
4 . Remove the pork chops from the grill or broiler and

allow them to rest for about 5 minutes.
5 . Heat the sherry vinegar sauce. Top each pork chop

with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce and serve at once.
450
completely dissolved, 4 to 6 minutes.
2 . Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the jus
lie to the gastrique. Stir to combine and return to a
simmer over medium heat. Reduce the sauce to a
nappe consistency, about 15 minutes.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce and

finish with whole butter (monte au beurre). The
sauce is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled
and refrigerated for later use.
Makes
10
servings
the fibrous choke from the center of the artichoke.

Halve each of the halves and store in the lemon
water to prevent browning.
4 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the extra-virgin olive oil, or

more as needed, in large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. (Use more oil than a saute, but less than
a pan fry.) Thoroughly drain the artichokes. Brown
lightly, without overcrowding the pan. (Work in
batches if necessary.) When lightly golden, season
MARINADE
with salt and pepper, remove from the pan, and
6 black peppercorns
drain on paper towels. Reserve.
1 bay leaf
2 o z/5 7 g parsley leaves
V 2 o z/1 4 g thyme leaves
/ 2
o z/1 4 g rosemary leaves
1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves

5 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the

onions until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Shock in cold
water, peel, and cut in half lengthwise. Heat 2 fl
oz/6o mL of the extra-virgin olive oil in a large sau
te pan over medium heat. Saute the onions until
lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove from
the pan, cool, and reserve.
6 . Cook the garlic slices in the remaining 2 tbsp/30
20 lamb rib chops (about 4 oz/1 IB g each), frenched
mL olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat

until the edges begin to brown. Add the onions, ar
ARTICHOKES AND ONIONS
tichokes, parsley, and oregano, and adjust season
Juice of 3 lemons
ing with salt and pepper. Add the stock and reduce
30 baby artichokes
the liquid by three-quarters. Stir in the butter and

cook until the vegetables are glazed. Reserve warm
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

while grilling the lamb.
from the lamb chops; blot dry if necessary. Season
30 cipollini onions
with salt and pepper. Wrap the bones with alumi
2 o z/5 7 g sliced garlic

num foil, if desired.

8 . Place the chops presentation side down on the grill
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, diced
Grilled Lamb Chops

with Rosemary,
Artichokes, and
Cipollini Onions
9 . Turn the chops over and complete cooking to the

1 . Combine the peppercorns, bay leaf, parsley, thyme,

rosemary, and garlic in a blender. Add 2 fl oz/6o
mL of the olive oil and blend until smooth. Gradu
ture of 145F/63C.
1 0 . Serve the ragout of vegetables in the middle of the

plate with 2 chops on top.
ally blend in the remaining oil.
2 . Pour the marinade over the lamb chops in a hotel

pan and refrigerate, covered, for a minimum of 45
minutes to overnight.
3 . Combine 1 gal/3.84 L water with the lemon juice.

Peel the stems and remove the tough outer leaves
of the artichokes, and split them in half length
wise. With a spoon or parisienne scoop, remove
c h a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
451
Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the

ture of i45F/65C.
Serve 3 or 4 skewers per person with 2 fl oz/6o mL
of the chutney.
M akes 1 0 servings
6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg, broken down

into subprimal cuts (see page 384)
Fresh Mango Chutney

M akes 32 fl o z/g6o mL
M A R IN A D E
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mangos
1 ts p /2 g ground green cardamom
V 2 tsp /1 g ground nutmeg
3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic
3A oz/21 g minced ginger
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice

4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 ts p /3 g minced jalapeno (optional)
Salt, as needed

4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt
Combine all the ingredients, including the minced

jalapeno, if using. Let the chutney rest in the refrig
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Fresh Mango
Chutney (recipe follows)
erator for up to 2 hours to allow the flavors to marry.

Adjust seasoning before serving, if necessary, with
additional lime juice, salt, or pepper.
1 . Trim the lamb and separate it into individual mus

cles. Remove all interior fat and gristle. Cut the meat
into long, thin strips, 1 by 4 by Vs in/3 by 10 cm by 3
Indian Grilled Lamb

with Fresh Mango
mm.
2.. To make the marinade, toast the cardamom and

cumin lightly in a dry saute pan. Add the nutmeg,
onions, garlic, ginger, and pepper and toast until
fragrant. Let cool. Add to the yogurt.
3 . Pour the marinade over the lamb in a hotel pan and

turn to coat evenly. Marinate the lamb, covered, in
the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
4 . Preheat the grill. Thread the lamb onto metal skew

ers and allow the excess marinade to drain away.
5 . Place the lamb presentation side down on the grill

rods. Grill undisturbed for about 1 minute. (Optional:
Give each skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill
marks.)
c h a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TIN G
453
Grilled or Broiled
Chicken Breasts with
Sun-Dried Tomato and
Oregano Butter
Makes 10 servings
Pakistani-Style Lamb
Patties
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g fresh white bread crumbs
Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg ground lamb
V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g toasted pine nuts
2 eggs, beaten
Butter, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g ta h in i
10 o z /2 8 4 g Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter

(page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g
servings
1 ts p /2 g ground coriander
2 . Pound the chicken breasts to even the thickness.
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cumin
1 ts p /2 g ground fennel seed
2 tb s p /1 8 g grated ginger
Season with salt and pepper and lightly brush

with oil.
3 . Place the chicken presentation (skin) side down on

the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil
1 . Cook the onions in the oil in a small saute pan over

medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add the garlic and saute 1 minute. Remove from the
heat and let cool.
2.. Soak the bread crumbs in water. Squeeze out any ex

cess moisture. Combine with the onions and garlic.
3 . Combine the bread crumb mixture with the lamb,

pine nuts, eggs, tahini, parsley, salt, pepper, spices,
and ginger. Mix gently but thoroughly. Shape the
mixture into ten patties and chill.
4 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Place the patties on the

grill or broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for
about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each patty a quar
ter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
5 . Turn the patties over and complete cooking to the

desired doneness, or to a minimum internal tem
perature of 145F/63C.
454
undisturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give

each breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the chicken over and complete cooking until

the chicken is cooked through (minimum internal
temperature of i65F/74C), 6 to 8 minutes.
5 . Top each chicken breast with a serving of the sundried tomato and oregano butter. Place under a
broiler or salamander until the butter begins to melt.
Serve at once.
Makes
10
servings

Grilled Pai I lards of

Chicken with Tarragon
Butter
Makes
10
servings
10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

(5 to 6 o z/1 4 2 to 170 g each)
3A ts p /2 g cracked fennel seeds
MARINADE
3/t ts p /2 .5 g s a lt
10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 o z/1 42

to 170 g each), pounded to an even thickness
2 ts p /2 g chopped tarragon
FENNEL
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
2 o z/5 7 g butter
10 o z /2 8 4 g Tarragon Butter (page 300),

piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g fennel, cut into julienne

2 tb sp /3 0 mL Pernod
10 fennel pluches (optional)
1 . Trim and pound the chicken into paillards (see page

380).

1 . Combine the oil, garlic, fennel seeds, V2 tsp/1.5 g of
the salt, and V4 tsp/0.50 g of the pepper in a hotel
pan. Add the chicken and marinate, covered, in the
refrigerator for 30 minutes.

from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.
B. Place the chicken presentation side down on the
hotel pan, add the chicken, and marinate, covered,

in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.
4 . Place the chicken presentation side down on the

disturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.) Turn
disturbed for about 2 minutes.
the chicken over. Continue to cook the chicken until
4 . Brush with the marinade and turn the chicken

over. Continue to cook the chicken, brushing with
the marinade periodically, until the chicken is
cooked through (minimum internal temperature of
Grilled or Broiled
Chicken Breasts with
Fennel
cooked through (minimum internal temperature of

i65F/74C), 3 to 5 minutes.
5 . Top each paillard with a serving of the tarragon but

ter and serve immediately.
i65F/74C), 6 to 8 minutes. Reserve warm.
5 . For the fennel, heat the butter in a medium sauce

pan over medium-high heat. Saute the shallots until
translucent, about 1 minute.
6 . Add the fennel and cover the pan. Cook until the
fennel is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan
from the heat and add the Pernod. Ignite the Pernod
and cook until the flame burns itself out. Adjust sea
soning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve on a bed of fennel and garnish with fennel

pluches.
455
Makes 10 servings
MARINADE
Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho

Apimentado)
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion
V2 o z/1 4 g minced malaguetas or habaneros
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice peeled plum tomatoes
1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme
3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley
V 4 ts p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic
2 '/2 ts p /8 .5 g s a lt
3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
MIXED GRILL
Malagueta oil or hot pepper sauce, as needed
5 whole chicken legs (about 8

o z/2 2 7 g each), separated
Salt, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin

2 lb /9 0 7 g flank steak
Combine the onions, tomatoes, parsley, and garlic in
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Hot Pepper Sauce (recipe follows)
a small bowl. Mix in the vinegar and oil and season

with the pepper oil or sauce, salt, and pepper.
1 . To make the marinade, combine the oil, peppers,
Cover and chill at least 1 hour prior to service. Adjust
thyme, garlic, V2 tsp/1.5 g of the salt, and V2 tsp/i g
seasoning with salt, pepper, and pepper oil or sauce,
of the pepper in a hotel pan. Marinate the chicken,
if necessary.
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
2.. Preheat the grill.

3 . Season the pork with 1 tsp/3 g f the salt and V2 tsp/i
g of the pepper. Season the steak with the remain
Brazilian Mixed Grill
ing salt and pepper. Drain excess marinade from the

chicken; blot dry if necessary.
4 . Grill the pork until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes per

side. Transfer the pork to a 35oF/i77C oven and
cook to an internal temperature of i55F/68C, about
10 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove from
the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
5 . Place the steak and chicken presentation side down

on the grill rods. Grill the chicken until cooked
through (internal temperature of i65F/74C), 8 to
10 minutes per side. Rotate as necessary to ensure
even browning.
6 . Meanwhile, grill the steaks undisturbed for about 2
minutes. Turn the steaks over and complete cooking
to the desired doneness, or to a minimum internal
temperature of 145F/63C.
7 . Slice the pork into Vi-in/i-cm portions. Thinly slice

the beef across the grain. Serve 1 chicken drumstick
or thigh, 2 slices of pork loin, and 2 slices of flank
steak. Serve with hot pepper sauce.
457
Barbecued Chicken
Breast with Black
Bean Sauce
Makes 10 servings
MARINADE
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider
2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar
1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
Black Bean Sauce

9 Y2
o z /269
g dried black beans, soaked overnight
50 fl o z/1.50 L Chicken Stock (page 263 )

V 2 o z/1 4 g diced bacon
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced onion
'A ts p /0.25 g chopped oregano
V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin
V 2 ts p /1 .5 g chopped jalapeno
1 dried chile
CHICKEN
Salt, as needed
10 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts (6 o z/1 7 0 g each)
IV2ts p /3 g ground black pepper
V i o z/1 4 g chopped sun-dried tomato

1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475)

1 ts p /5 mL sherry vinegar
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Black Bean Sauce
(recipe follows), warm
1. Com
binealltheingredientsforthemarinadeina
hotelpan.Addthechickenandturntocoatitevenly.
Marinatethechicken,covered,intherefrigerator
for1to2hours.
2 . Preheatthegrillorbroiler. Drainexcessm
arinade
fromthechicken;blotdryifnecessary.Seasonwith
saltandpepper.
3. Placethechickenpresentationsidedow
nonthe
grillrodsoruponthebroilerrods.Grillorbroilun
disturbedforabout2minutes. (Optional:Giveeach
breastaquarter-turntoachievegrillmarks.)
4 . Brushw
iththebarbecuesauceandturnthechicken
over.Continuetocookthechicken,brushingperi
odicallywithalightcoatofbarbecuesauce,untilthe
chickeniscookedthrough(internaltemperatureof
i65F/74C), 6to8minutes.
5. Servethechickenonheatedplateswiththeblack
beansauce.
1. Sim
merthebeansinthestockinamediumsauce
panovermediumheatuntiltender,about1hour.
Drainthebeansandreserveabout8floz/240mLof
thecookingliquid.
2 . Inasecondm
ediumsaucepan,renderthebacon
overmediumheatuntilitreleasesitsfatandbe
comescrisp,about5minutes.Addtheoil,onions,
garlic,oregano,cumin,jalapenos,anddriedchile.
Sauteovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,until
theonionsarelimpandtranslucent, 6to8minutes.
3.A
ddthecookedbeanstothesauteedvegetablesand
heatallingredientsthoroughly.Seasonwithsaltand
pepperandcookfor10to15minutesmore.
4 . Pureeone-thirdofthebeans.A
ddthetomatoesand
pureeuntilsmooth.Adjustthepureeconsistency
withreservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Addthe
pureebacktothebeans.Adjusttheconsistencywith
thereservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Seasonwith
lemonjuiceandvinegar.
5.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Thesauce
isreadytoservenow,ormayberapidlycooledand
refrigeratedforlateruse.
Makes 10 servings
JERK SEASONING
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g roughly chopped onion
2 'A o z/71 g roughly chopped green onion
2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark rum

2 f I o z/6 0 mL soy sauce
1 tb sp /6 g ground allspice
Fillet of Mahi Mahi

with PineappleJi'cama Salsa
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg mahi mahi fillet, cut
into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings
l
'/ 2
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
4 ts p /4 g th y m e
I V 2 ts p /5 g salt
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Pineapple-Ji'cama
Salsa (recipe follows)
V h ts p /3 g ground nutmeg
1 ts p /2 g ground cloves
1 or 2 Scotch bonnets, stems and seeds

removed, roughly chopped
2.. Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lime juice.
10 game hens, butterflied

1 o z /2 8 g coarse salt
Brush the fillets lightly with the oil.
3 . Place the fish presentation side down on the grill

turbed for about 2 minutes.
4 . Turn the fish over and complete cooking until the

1 . Combine all the jerk seasoning ingredients in a
blender. Puree to a smooth, thick paste.
flesh is opaque and firm, 3 to 5 minutes.
5 . Serve immediately with pineapple-jicama salsa.
2 . Wearing gloves, rub the jerk seasoning onto both

sides of the game hens. Marinate, covered, in the
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Season each hen with

Vz tsp/2.50 g coarse salt. Place the hens presenta
Jerked Game Hens
Pineapple-Jfcama Salsa
tion (skin) side down on the grill rods or up on the

broiler rods. Grill or broil for 12 minutes. Turn the
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lime juice
hens over, and cook to an internal temperature of
Salt, as needed
i65F/74C, about 12 minutes more.

6 o z/1 7 0 g ji'cama, cut into fine julienne
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice pineapple
4 V a o z/1 2 0 g minced red onion
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice red pepper

V 2 o z /1 4 g minced jalapeno
Mix together the oil, lime juice, salt, pepper, and ci

lantro. Add the remaining ingredients and toss to coat.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is
ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
ch a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
459
Makes
10
servings
Ten 1 lb 8 -o z /6 8 0 -g lobsters
B'/z o z / 9
Broiled Bluefish a
i'Angiaise with MaTtre
d'Hotel Butter
Makes
10
servings
g butter
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skinless bluefish fillet,

cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced celery
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced red pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper
2 'A f 1o z/7 5 mL lemon juice
1 o z/2 8 g fresh bread crumbs
/2
l ' A o z/3 5 g bread crumbs

3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry sherry
/2
10 o z /2 8 4 g MaTtre d'Hotel Butter (page 300),

piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings
2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted
1 . Preheat the broiler.

2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the
lobsters and parboil for 7 minutes. Allow the lobsters
to cool slightly.
3 . Detach the claws from the bodies. Remove the meat

from the claws and dice. Reserve. Split the lobster
bodies. Remove the coral and tomalley and reserve
to add to the stuffing, if desired.
4 . Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium-high
2 . Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

Brush the fillets lightly with the butter. Dip in the
bread crumbs, and gently press down on the surface.
3 . Place the fillets on a broiler rack. Broil until barely

cooked through (flesh should be opaque and firm), 3
to 4 minutes.
4 . Top each fillet with a serving of the maitre dhotel
Broiled S tu ffe d
Lobster
butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the

butter begins to melt. Serve at once.
heat. Add the onions, celery, and peppers and cook

until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Sea
son with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
Add the reserved coral and tomalley, if using, the
diced claw meat, bread crumbs, and sherry. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper, if needed.
5 . Spoon the stuffing into the body cavity of each lob

ster. Do not place stuffing over the tail meat. Season
the tail meat with salt and pepper and brush lightly
with melted butter.
6 . Place the lobsters on a broiler rack, shell side down,
and broil until the stuffing begins to crisp and turn
golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve at once.
C hapter 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTING
461
Fish Kebabs
Mint and Yogurt Chutney
Makes 10 servings
MARINADE
10 fl oz/BOO mL sour cream
4 o z/1 1 3 g cashew nut paste
B o z/8 5 g chickpea flour
V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped Thai chiles
4'/2 ts p /9 g freshly ground white pepper
lt b s p /9 g garlic paste
5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g cilantro stems and leaves

5V2 o z / 1 5 6 g mint leaves
2 ts p /4 g cumin seeds
16 Thai bird chiles
1 o z /2 8 g sugar
Salt, as needed
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL plain yogurt, drained overnight
1 tb sp /6 g ground fennel seed

2 ts p /4 g ajwain, crushed
1 . Combine the cilantro, mint, cumin, and chiles in a

blender and puree until smooth. If necessary, add 2
1 ts p /3 g ground ginger
tbsp/30 mL of the lemon juice when blending. The
Salt, as needed
mixture should not be watery; drain if necessary.
2 . Combine the herb puree with the remaining lemon

3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg black cod fillet,
cut into 3-in/8-cm cubes
juice, the sugar, salt, and yogurt. Adjust seasoning,
Salt, as needed
sweet, and salty.)

2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, melted
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Mint and Yogurt
Chutney (recipe follows)
2 . . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a

hotel pan. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and
additional chiles, if necessary.
3 . Season the fish with salt and lemon juice. Let it

stand for 15 minutes.
4 . Blot with paper towels to remove the excess mois

ture. Add the fish to the marinade. Marinate, cov
ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to
overnight.
5 . Place the fish on a rack over a sheet pan and baste

with the butter. Make sure there is sufficient mari
nade on each piece.
6 . Cook the fish under a broiler on high until the top
of the fish is dark brown with spots of black, 12 to 15
minutes.
7 . Serve immediately with the mint and yogurt chutney.
462
if necessary. (The chutney should be minty, spicy,
3 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be refrig

erated for later use.
Madeira Sauce
Makes
Makes
10
servings
4 to 5 lb/1.81 to 2.27 kg beef tenderloin

2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g foie gras pate
2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped tru ffle peelings
1 sheet Puff Pastry Dough (page 1076)
3 f I o z/9 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (recipe follows)
32
f l oz/g6o mL
40 fl o z/1.20 L Jus de Veau Lie (page

12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Madeira
Salt, as needed
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, medium dice
1 . Bring the jus lie to a simmer over medium heat and

reduce by half.
2 . Add the Madeira and simmer until the sauce has a

good flavor and consistency, 2 to 3 minutes more.
1 . Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper. Heat the

butter in a large saute pan over high heat. Sear the
Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Whisk in the butter over low heat just before serving.
tenderloin on all sides. Remove from the pan and let

cool.
M arsala Sauce: Replace the Madeira w ith Marsala.
2 . Spread the surface of the tenderloin with the pate

and sprinkle with the truffles.
3 . Roll the dough out to 3/16 in/5 mm thick. Place the

tenderloin in the center of the dough. Wrap the
dough around the tenderloin. Fold the ends under
and roll over so the seam is on the bottom. Brush
with egg wash.
Beef Wellington
4 . Place the beef, seam side down, on an oiled sheet

pan in a 400F/204C oven. Bake until the puff
pastry is lightly browned, and the meat reaches a
minimum internal temperature of 145F/63C, about
20 minutes. (Use a convection oven if possible.)
Remove from the oven and let rest 15 minutes.
5 . Cut into %-in/2-cm slices. Serve immediately with

the Madeira sauce on the side.
463
Standing Rib Roast

au Jus
Makes 25 servings
Veal Shoulder Poele

Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal shoulder
r
14 lb /6.35 kg bone-in beef rib roast (see Note)

V A o z/3 5 g salt
1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g rough-cut Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
/2
ts p /5 g salt

]A ts p /0 .2 5 g finely chopped rosemary
V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade
'/2
ts p /0.50 g finely chopped thyme
V 2 ts p /0.50 g finely chopped marjoram

1 . Season the beef with salt and pepper.
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, plus more as needed
2 . Place the beef on a rack in a roasting pan and roast
2 o z/5 7 g diced slab bacon or smoked ham
in a 350F/i77C oven until it reaches an internal

temperature of 125F/52C.
3 . Add the mirepoix about 30 minutes before the roast

is done and let it brown.
4 . Remove the roast from the pan and allow it to rest

for 30 minutes.
5 . While the roast is resting, place the roasting pan

on the stovetop. Cook until the mirepoix is well
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste (o p tio n a l)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
2 bay leaves
1 ts p /3 g cornstarch, diluted in water
or stock to make a slurry
browned, the fat is clear, about 5 minutes, and the

pan drippings have reduced. Degrease as needed.
1 . Butterfly the veal. Season it with salt and pepper.
Deglaze the roasting pan with the stock. Adjust sea
2 . Mix together the rosemary, basil, thyme, marjoram,
soning with salt and pepper. Strain and reserve in a
and garlic. Spread this mixture evenly over the in
bain-marie. Hold hot for service.
side of the veal. Roll and tie the veal roast.
6 . Slice the beef and serve immediately with the jus.

NOTE: A standard rib roast can range from 14 lb/6.35 kg to
as much as 22 lb/9.97 kg.
3 . To make the matignon, melt the butter in a lidded

sauteuse over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook
for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mirepoix. Cook until a
light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the to
mato paste, if desired, and cook briefly.
4 . Place the veal on top of the matignon and baste with

some additional butter.
5 . Cover the pan and place in a 300F/i49C oven, bast

ing every 20 minutes, for about 1 hour. Remove the
lid for the last 30 minutes to allow the veal to brown.
6 . Check for doneness: the meat should be tender
when pierced with a fork. Remove the veal from the
pan and keep warm.
7 . Add the stock, wine, and bay leaves to the pan and
simmer for 20 minutes. Degrease if necessary.
8 . Thicken with the slurry and reduce, if necessary.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
9 . Slice the veal into portions and serve with the sauce.
Makes 1 0 servings
4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 kg bone-in pork loin roast
Baked S tu ffe d Pork

Chops
Makes 1 0 servings
1 ts p /1 g minced rosem ary
V/ 2
10 ce n te r-c u t pork chops (8 to 1 0 o z /2 2 7

to 2 8 4 g, I V 2 in /4 cm thick)
STUFFING

2 fl o z /6 0 mL vegetable oil
JUS LIE
8 o z /2 2 7 g m edium -dice
S tandard M irepo ix (page 2 4 3 )
4 o z /1 1 3 g minced onion
3 o z /8 5 g minced celery
2 tb s p /3 0 mL to m ato paste
4 fl o z /1 2 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs

1 tb s p /3 g chopped parsley
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Brown Veal S to ck (page 2 6 3 )

2 thym e sprigs
1 bay leaf
1 ts p /1 g rubbed sage
2 t s p /6 . 5 g s a l t
1 t s p /2 g ground black pepper
2 t b s p /3 0 mL a rro w ro o t slurry, or as needed

6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
1 . Trim the pork loin and tie. Rub the roast with the
2 4 fl o z /7 2 0 mL D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 )
garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place the pork loin

on a rack in a roasting pan of appropriate size.
2 . Roast at 375F/igiC for 1 hour, basting from time to

time. Scatter the mirepoix around the pork and con
tinue to roast until an instant-read thermometer in
1 . Cut a pocket in each chop and refrigerate until the

stuffing is prepared and properly cooled.
2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a saute pan over medium

heat. Add the onions and cook until golden brown, 8 to
serted in the center of the meat registers 145F/63C,
10 minutes. Add the celery and garlic and cook until the
30 to 45 minutes more.
celery is limp, 8 to 10 minutes more. Spread out on a
3 . Remove the pork from the roasting pan and allow it

to rest for 20 minutes before carving.
4 . To prepare the jus lie, place the roasting pan on the
sheet pan and allow to cool completely.
3 . Combine the onion mixture with the bread crumbs,

parsley, and sage. Season with the salt and pepper. Add
stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and
enough of the stock to make a stuffing that is moist but
the fat is clear, about 5 minutes. Pour off all the fat.
not wet. Chill the stuffing until it reaches 40F/4C.
Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently,
4 . Divide the stuffing into 10 equal portions and place 1
until it has a sweet aroma and brick-red color, 30 to
portion into the cavity of each pork chop. Secure the
45 seconds. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. Re
chops closed with skewers.
duce the wine slightly to cook off the alcohol flavor.
5 . Add the stock, stirring to release the fond completely.
5 . Season the chops with salt and pepper. Heat the re

maining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a large saute pan over
Add the thyme and bay leaf, and simmer the jus for
high heat. Sear the pork chops until golden brown on
20 to 30 minutes, or until it reaches the proper con
both sides. Transfer to a sheet pan and finish cooking
sistency and flavor. Add slurry to thicken the sauce
in a 350F/i77C oven to an internal temperature of
enough to coat the back of a spoon. Degrease and
145F/63C.

6 . Strain the jus lie through a fine-mesh sieve and keep
it hot for service. Carve the pork loin into portions
and serve immediately with the jus lie.
Pork Roast with Jus Lie
(5 . Meanwhile, pour off any excess oil from the saute pan.
Add the demi-glace and bring to a simmer. Degrease the
sauce if necessary. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve the stuffed pork chops with the sauce.
465
Cantonese Roast Pork

( Cha r Si u)
Makes 10 servings
5 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients.

Pour the marinade over the pork in a hotel pan and
massage it into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8
hours or overnight, turning the meat occasionally.
6 . Remove the pork from the marinade and wipe off
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt
the excess (reserve excess marinade for glazing).
BRINE
Place the pork on a wire rack in a roasting pan.
1 g al/3.84 L water
4 o z /1 1 3 g s a lt
4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
7 . Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of

the oven, and set the oven to 325F/i63C.
8 . Place the pork in the oven and roast, glazing ev
ery 30 minutes with the reserved marinade, until
Peel of 1 orange
it reaches an internal temperature of 145F/63C,
1 cinnamon stick
about 1V2 hours.
1 tb sp /6 g black peppercorns
1 tb sp /6 g Szechwan peppercorns
9 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to rest

for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve garnished with
green onions or chop and use to fill pork buns.
3 star anise pods

V i o z/1 4 g ginger, crushed
10 dried Chinese chiles
1 bunch green onions, bruised
MARINADE
3 f I o z/9 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
or Brown Pork Stock (page 264)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing)
I V 2 o z/4 3 g brown sugar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL mushroom soy sauce
4 ts p /2 0 mL hoisin sauce
1 tbsp brown bean paste
1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil
1 ts p /3 g Chinese Five-Spice Powder (page 368)
5 o z /1 4 2 g sliced green onions
1 . Cut the pork into rectangles 3 by 8 by 3 in/8 by 20 by

8 cm. Refrigerate until the brine is ready.
2 . Bring the water for the brine to a boil and add the re
maining brine ingredients. Stir to dissolve the sugar
and salt. Cool the brine to room temperature.
3 . Place the pork in the cooled brine, cover, and refrig

erate for 8 hours or overnight.
4 . Remove the pork from the brine, pat dry, and discard
the brine.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Guava Barbecue Sauce

Makes 32 fl oz/960 ml
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g guava marmalade
MARINADE
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine vinegar
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped onion
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped cilantro
2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g ground cumin

10 garlic cloves
13 lb /5.90 kg pork baby back ribs

24 fl o z /7 2 0 mL Guava Barbecue

1 o z/2 8 g molasses
1 o z/2 8 g dry mustard
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin
3/ t o z/2 1 g minced garlic
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry
1 Scotch bonnet, minced
Salt, as needed
4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice
1 . In a medium saucepan, combine the marmalade, to

1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients
in a blender and puree.
2 .. Place the ribs in a large, nonreactive container and

coat with the marinade. Marinate, covered, in the
3 . Transfer the ribs and marinade to a rondeau or kettle
mato paste, molasses mustard, cumin, garlic, sherry,

Scotch bonnet, and water. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 . Simmer the sauce for 30 minutes. Remove from the

heat and set aside to cool.
3 . Add the lime juice when the sauce has cooled. The
and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain off the liquid and
sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for
allow the ribs to cool.
later use.
Guava-Glazed Pork
Ribs
4 . Place the ribs on roasting racks on sheet pans. Roast

the ribs for 20 to 25 minutes in a 350F/i77C oven.
Brush the barbecue sauce on both sides of the ribs
and roast for 8 to 10 minutes more. Brush the ribs
with sauce again, turn so the meaty side is up, and
roast the ribs for 8 to 10 minutes more, until they are
well glazed.
ch a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
467
Makes 10 servings
North Carolina Western

Barbecue Sauce
12 lb /5.44 kg pork butt
1 o z /2 8 g s a lt
V i o z/1 4 g ground black pepper
4/ 2 t s p /9 g paprika
10 sandwich buns, split and toasted
472 ts p /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina

Piedmont Sauce (recipe follows)
4'/z ts p /9 g dry mustard
/2
o z/4 3 g brown sugar
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina Western
Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Mustard Barbecue
3/ t ts p /1 .50 g cayenne
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Worcestershire sauce
6 fl o z/2 4 0 mL white vinegar
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL ketchup
1 . Season the pork butt with the salt and pepper. Roast
in a 300F/i49C oven until tender, about 5 hours.
2 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to cool

slightly. When cool enough to handle, shred or chop
the pork.
3 . For each portion, serve about 6 oz/170 g of the pork

on a toasted bun with the sauces on the side.
2 flo z /6 0 m L w a te r
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust sea

soning with salt and cayenne, if necessary. The sauce is
ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
North Carolina Piedmont

Sauce
Mustard Barbecue Sauce

(North Carolina Eastern Low
Country Sauce)
15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL white vinegar
15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL cider vinegar
1 lb /4 5 4 g chopped onion
3'/> ts p /7 g red pepper flakes
I V 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic
3 tb sp /4 5 mLTabasco sauce
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white vinegar
l 3/ t o z /50
11 f I o z/3 3 0 mL spicy brown mustard
g sugar
Carolina Barbecue
2 ts p /4 g celery seed
3/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. The

sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for
later use.
Salt, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the

onions and saute until translucent, about 4 minutes.
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute.
2 . Add the remaining ingredients and bring the mixture

to a simmer to melt the sugar. Remove the pan from
the heat and allow the flavors to blend, about 30 min
utes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated

for later use.
469
Pork Butt with

Coleslaw
l / 2 o z/4 3 g sugar
l
'/ 2
ts p /3 g celery seed
1 tb s p /1 5 mL hot sauce
Makes 10 servings
2 3/t o z /7 8 g s a lt
2'A
o z/6 4 g coarsely ground black pepper
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g shredded green cabbage
13A
o z/5 0 g adobo spice
7 '/* o z/2 0 6 g shredded carrots
13 lb 10 o z/6.18 kg bone-in pork butt

l
/ 2
q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (page 475)
1 . Combine the salt, pepper, and adobo spice in a
small bowl to create a dry rub.

MAYONNAISE
3 tb s p /4 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks

1 tb s p /1 5 mL water
Locate and remove the gland on the pork butt lo

cated opposite the blade bone.
3 . Rub the spice mixture over the pork butt. Mari
1 tb sp /1 5 mL white wine vinegar
nate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight or up to
'A o z/7 g Dijon mustard
24 hours.
4 . Allow the meat to rest at room temperature for at
/4 ts p /1 .2 5 g sugar
least 1 hour before smoking.

1 ts p /3 g salt
Place the pork butts in the smoker fat side up, leav
7 . Smoke the pork until very tender, with an internal

temperature of 170F/77C, 10 to 12 hours. Final
COLESLAW
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL sour cream
2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar
'/2
ing no more than 1 in/3 cm between the butts.
2 pinches ground white pepper
5 . Preheat the smoker to i95F/9iC.
ts p /7 g dry mustard
smoking time will depend on the size of the butts.

Remove the pork from the smoker and remove the
bone. Allow the pork to rest for 45 minutes.
9 . Use your fingers or two forks to pull apart the

meat. Warm the barbecue sauce. Combine the
meat with just enough sauce to coat. Hold the
meat and sauce warm, separately, for service.
To make the mayonnaise, combine the yolks, wa
ter, vinegar, mustard, and sugar in a medium bowl.
Whisk until slightly foamy.
Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly
beating with the whisk until the oil is incorporated
and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick. Season
with the salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
To make the coleslaw, combine the prepared
mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, mustard, sugar,
celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl and mix
until smooth. Season with the salt and pepper.
Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly
When the b u tt is smoked
properly, the bone w ill slide
out easily.
470
The smoked meat should be

tender enough to easily pull
apart w ith your fingers.
M EAT S, P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
coated.
Serve 10V2 oz/297 g of the finished sauced pork
with 4 oz/113 g f the prepared coleslaw and some
of the barbecue sauce.
Smoked Brisket with

Sweet Rickies
1 . Remove excess fat from the cap, leaving only V2 to %

in/i to 2 cm on the surface of the meat. Do not re
move the deckle.
2.
Makes 10 servings
Combine the salt, chili powder, paprika, pepper, gar

lic powder, and onion powder in a small bowl. Rub
20 lb /9.07 kg beef brisket, cap on
the spice mixture evenly over the brisket. Rest the
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g salt
brisket overnight in the refrigerator, covered.
2 o z/5 7 g dark chili powder
3 . Let the brisket sit out at room temperature for 1 hour

prior to smoking.
l 3/ i o z/5 0 g paprika
V A o z/3 5 g coarsely ground black pepper
4 . Preheat smoker to i95F/9iC (see Note).
3A o z/21 g garlic powder
5 . Place the brisket into the smoker fat side up, leaving
about 1 in/3 cm between pieces of meat. Smoke the
3/ * o z/21 g onion powder
meat until very tender, 10 to 12 hours (about 1 hour per

pound).
SWEET PICKLES
2 lb /9 0 7 g cucumbers (Kirby)
6 . To make the sweet pickles, wash the cucumbers and
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions
slice them about lA in/6 mm thick. Slice the onions %
12 f 1o z/3 60 mL cider vinegar
in/6 mm thick.
7 . Combine the cucumbers, onions, cider vinegar, salt,
V A ts p /5 g salt
mustard seeds, 1 tbsp/15 g of the sugar, and the water

'/> ts p /2 g mustard seeds
in a large nonreactive sauce pot. Simmer for 10 min
14 o z /3 9 7 g sugar
utes. Drain and transfer to a storage container.
1 q t/9 6 0 m L water
8 . Bring the white vinegar, celery seed, allspice, turmeric,

and the remaining sugar to a boil in a medium pot.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 g white vinegar

1 tb s p /1 4 g celery seed
9 . Pour the vinegar mixture over the cucumbers and

onions. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days before
V/2 ts p /5 g allspice, crushed
serving. The pickles can now be stored, refrigerated,
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Chef Clark's SouthwestStyle Sauce (recipe follows)
for up to 1 week.
1 0 . Serve the brisket with the sweet pickles and some of

the Southwest-style sauce.
NOTE: Keep the smoker tem perature around 195F/91C. At
this tem perature the fa t on the surface w ill melt, rather
than boil, as it can do at higher temperatures.
Chef Clark's Southwest-Style

Sauce
Makes 20 fl oz/6oo mL
2 o z/5 7 g butter
4 3/ * o z/1 3 5 g diced onion
'/ 2
0 z /1 4 g garlic
1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles

1 o z/2 8 g Chili Powder (page 36 8 or purchased)
It is vita l to apply the
spice rub evenly.
472
Ideally the finished brisket

should have a smoke ring o f V a to
V 2 in/6 to 13 mm.
4 o z /1 13 g strong brewed coffee

4Y4 o z/1 2 8 g Worcestershire sauce
2 fl o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar

l 3/4 o z/5 0 g brown sugar
V 2 o z /1 4 g cornstarch
J . Stir in the chili powder and continue to cook until

the flavor of the chili powder is developed, 2 to 3
minutes more.
4 . Stir in the coffee, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup,

vinegar, and sugar. Simmer until good flavor devel
ops, about 45 minutes.
5 . Whisk the cornstarch with the water in a small bowl

1 . Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat.
Add the onions and sweat until translucent, 4 to 5
minutes.
2 . Add the garlic and chiles and cook until the mixture is
aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes more.
until it is smooth.
6 . Stir the slurry into the sauce to adjust the thickness.
Bring the sauce back to a boil before cooling.
7 . The sauce is now ready to use or can be stored, re

frigerated, for up to 1 week.
473
Barbecue Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Makes lVi qt/1.44 L
2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
1 q t/9 6 0 mL ketchup
9 o z/2 5 5 g white wine vinegar
1 tb sp /6 g coarsely ground black pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g water
3 tb s p /1 8 g celery seed
3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g dark brown sugar
4 tb s p /2 4 g paprika
2 '/2
3 tb sp /31 g onion powder
3/ t o z/21 g paprika
27 lb /1 2 .2 5 kg St. Louis-style spare ribs
V * o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
3/ t o z/21 g dry mustard
/2
q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Coleslaw (page 470)
St. Louis-Style Ribs
f I o z/7 5 mL Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp /6.5 g salt

l / 2 t s p /3 g cayenne
1 . Combine the salt, thyme, pepper, celery seed, pa

prika, and onion powder in a medium bowl. Rub
Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and pro
the mixture evenly over the spare ribs. Rest the ribs,
cess until smooth. Use immediately or refrigerate.
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
The sauce can be stored for up to 3 weeks.
2 . Preheat the smoker to i95F/9iC (see Note).

3 . Smoke the ribs until the meat pulls away from the
rib tips by 3/s to Vi in/9 t0 13 mm>about 4V2 hours.
The meat should easily remove from the bone and
the bone should appear dry within 10 to 15 seconds.
4 . Remove the ribs from the smoker. Brush both sides

with some of the barbecue sauce. Place the ribs pre
sentation side down on the rods of a hot grill. Grill
undisturbed until the sauce begins to caramelize.
Turn the ribs over and grill until the sauce on the
second side begins to caramelize.
5 . Portion the ribs and serve with the barbecue sauce

and coleslaw.
NOTE: Many types o f wood can be used; the traditional
choices are hickory, cherry, or mesquite.
Cut the finished ribs into

individual portions.
ch a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G
475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork
Ribs (Kao Paigu/
Roast Leg of Lamb

Boulangere
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 tb sp /4 5 mL dark soy sauce
9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note)
3 tb s p /4 5 m L sherry
I V 4 o z/3 5 g salt
5 pork spare rib racks, trimmed
1 tb sp /6 gground black pepper
MARINADE
1 o z/2 8 g slivered garlic
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL hoisin sauce
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes,

sliced Ve in /3 mm thick
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Chinese black bean sauce

1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
/ 2
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing)

8 o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced onion

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Brown Lamb Stock (page 264)
or Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed
1 . Season the lamb with some of the salt and pepper

and stud it with the slivered garlic.
2 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast at
400F/204C for 1 hour, basting from time to time.
3Vz o z/9 9 g sugar
Remove the lamb from the pan and pour off the fat.
LACQUER COATING
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL honey
1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil
3 . Layer the potatoes and onions in the roasting pan,

seasoning the layers with the remaining salt and
pepper. Add enough stock to moisten well.
4 . Place the lamb on the potatoes. Continue to roast

until the desired doneness, or to a minimum inter
1 . Combine the soy sauce and sherry and brush on the

ribs.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour

over the ribs in a deep hotel pan and massage it into
the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or over
night, turning occasionally.
3 . Remove the ribs from the marinade and wipe off the
excess. Place the ribs on a wire rack in a roasting pan.
nal temperature of 145F/63C. The potatoes should

be tender.
5 . Remove the roasting pan from the oven and allow

the lamb to rest before carving.
6 . Heat the jus de veau lie over medium heat while the
lamb rests.
7 . Carve the lamb into slices. For each portion, place 3
Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of
oz/85 g potatoes and onions on a heated plate. Top

with 6 oz/170 g roasted lamb and ladle 2 fl oz/6o mL
the oven, and set the oven to 325F/i63C.
sauce over the lamb. Serve at once.
5 . Place the ribs in the oven and roast until they reach
an internal temperature of 150F/66C, about 1V2
hours.
6 . To make the lacquer coating, combine the honey and
sesame oil. During the last 20 minutes of roasting,
brush the ribs with the mixture.
7 . Remove the ribs from the oven and allow them to

rest for 10 minutes. Cut the racks in half, or into in
dividual ribs, before serving.
NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44

kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.
Makes 8 servings
Persillade
Makes 12 oz/340 g
5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs
2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
Two 2 -lb /9 0 7 -g frenched racks of lamb

V A o z/3 5 g chopped parsley
3V2 o z/9 9 g butter, melted
2 ts p /6 .5 g s a lt
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper
1 tsp /1 g chopped rosemary
Mix all the ingredients together to make an evenly
moistened mixture. Place in a tightly sealed con
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
tainer and refrigerate or use as needed.
V A q t/1 .2 0 L Brown Lamb Stock (page

264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
12 o z/3 4 0 g Persillade (recipe follows)
1 . Lightly brush the lamb with oil, season with salt and
pepper, and rub with the chopped rosemary and
thyme. Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan.
2 . Roast at 400F/204C for 15 minutes, basting pe

riodically with rendered juices and fat. Scatter
the mirepoix around the lamb, reduce the heat to
325F/i63C, and continue to roast to the desired
internal doneness. Transfer the lamb to a sheet pan
and keep warm.
Roast Rack o f kamb

Persille
3 . To make the jus, place the roasting pan on the

stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned
and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Deglaze with
the stock, stirring to release the fond completely.
Simmer until it reaches the desired consistency and
flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and adjust season
ing with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh
sieve and keep warm.
4 . Spread half of the persillade on top of each rack of

lamb. Return the lamb to the oven until the persil
lade is lightly browned.
5 . Cut the lamb into chops and serve with the sauce.
c h a p te r 17 G R IL L IN G , BR O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G
477
Roasted Shoulder o f
Lamb and Couscous
5 . Cover the lamb and continue to cook until the meat

is extremely tender, 2 to 3 hours. Check the waterand-oil level every 30 minutes and add water if it
appears too low.
( M e c h o u i )
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, soft
2 o z/5 7 g garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt
6 . Remove the meat and keep it warm. Place the roast

ing pan on the stovetop.
7 . Degrease the liquid in the pan. Gradually add the

slurry, whisking constantly. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper.
3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley
8 . Combine all the ingredients for the condiment mix.
3/ t o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro
9 . Thinly slice the lamb and serve immediately with
1 tb sp /6 g dried thyme
1 tb sp /6 g paprika
10 lb /4.54 kg lamb shoulder, square cut,
excess fa t and silverskin removed
1 o z /2 8 g salt
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water, or as needed
1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, mixed with 1
tb s p /1 5 mL water to make a slurry
CONDIMENT
1 tb s p /1 0 g coarse salt
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg Couscous (page 826), hot
1 . Mix the butter with the garlic, parsley, cilantro,

thyme, cumin, and paprika.
2 . Season the lamb with about l tsp/3 g of the salt and

Vi tsp/0.50 g of the pepper. Coat the lamb with the
seasoned butter.
3 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Add

enough of the oil and water to cover the bottom of
the pan but not touch the lamb. (The amount need
ed will depend on the size of pan used.)
4 . Roast uncovered in a 350F/i77C oven, basting ev

ery 15 minutes, until a deep caramel color develops,
about 45 minutes.
the couscous and condiment mix.
Roast Leg of Lamb

with Haricots Blancs
beans are tender but not mushy, about 30 minutes

more. Remove the bay leaves and parsley sprigs and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Set
aside to keep warm.
( G i g o t
lo
B r e t o n n e )
Makes 10 servings
4 . While the beans are cooking, heat the butter in a

heavy-bottomed saute pan and add the remaining
onions and chopped garlic. Saute over low heat, stir
HARICOTS BLANCS
ring, until golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the toma
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried haricots blancs
toes and thyme. Cook over medium heat, stirring
from time to time, for 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning

with salt and pepper, and add to the beans.
5 . Make some incisions into the leg and slip in the sliv
3/ t o z/21 g chopped garlic
ers of garlic. Rub with the oil and season with salt
2 bay leaves
and pepper.
2 parsley sprigs
1 tb sp /10 g salt
r
/2
6 . Sear the lamb on all sides in a roasting pan on the

stovetop.
7 . Place in a 400F/204C oven. After 15 minutes, add

the boiling water to the roasting pan. Roast, basting
1 o z/2 8 g butter
the lamb with the pan juices from time to time, until
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and

medium-diced tomatoes
an instant-read thermometer registers a minimum of
V 2 ts p /0.50 g thyme leaves
roasting pan and let it rest in a warm spot.
LAMB
9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note)
V t. o z/1 4 g slivered garlic
ltb s p /1 5 m L olive oil
145F/63C, about 1 hour. Remove the lamb from the

8 . Degrease the roasting pan. Deglaze with the white
wine and reduce by half. Stir the pan juices into the
beans. If necessary, bring the beans back up to serv
ing temperature.
9 . Slice the lamb and serve it on a bed of the beans.
r
/2
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL boiling water

1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short soak method (see
page 753). Drain the soaked beans.
2 . Cover the beans with water in a large soup pot and

bring to a boil. Skim off all the scum that rises to the
top, remove from the heat and drain. In the same
pot, heat the oil and add 4 oz/113 g of the onions and
2 tsp/6 g of the chopped garlic. Cook over low heat
until the onions begin to soften. Return the beans to
the pot and add enough cold water to cover by 2 in/5
cm. Bring to a boil, add the bay leaves and parsley
sprigs, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes.
3 . Add the salt and an additional 2 tsp/6 g of the

chopped garlic. Cover and continue to cook until the
NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44

kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.
Makes 10 servings
Salt Herbs
Makes 2 oz/57 g
V A o z/3 5 g salt
4 ts p /4 g rosemary leaves
6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg

4 ts p /4 g thyme leaves
3/ t oz/21 g Salt Herbs (recipe follows)
1 ts p /2 g black peppercorns
'/ 2

6 bay leaves
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed

4 o z /l l B g medium-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
Combine all the ingredients in a clean spice grinder
M IN T SAUCE
tight container and let rest for 12 hours before using.
and grind to a medium-fine powder. Put in an air
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)

2 o z/5 7 g mint stems or sprigs
V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
1 o z/2 8 g mint chiffonade
1 . Rub the lamb on all sides with the salt herbs and gar
lic. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight.
2 . Roll and tie the roast. Rub it with oil and place it on
a rack in a roasting pan.
3 . Roast at 350F/i77C for 45 minutes, basting from

time to time.
Roast Leg o f Lamb

with Mint Sauce
4 . Scatter the mirepoix around the lamb and continue

to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted
in the center of the meat registers a minimum of
145F/63C, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Remove the
lamb from the roasting pan and allow it to rest.
5 . To make the mint sauce, place the roasting pan on

the stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned
and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Add the demiglace, stirring to release the fond completely. Add
the mint stems and simmer until the sauce reaches
the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes.
Degrease and season with salt and pepper. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve. Finish with mint
chiffonade.
6 . Carve the lamb into portions and serve it with the
mint sauce.
481
Roast Chicken with

Pan Gravy
Chicken Legs with

Duxelles S tu ffin g
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each),

wing tips removed and reserved
Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g chicken leg quarters

DUXELLES STUFFING
2 o z/5 7 g salt
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced shallot
2 o z/5 7 g butter
5 thyme sprigs
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mushrooms
5 rosemary sprigs
5 bay leaves
5 f 1o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil
12 o z/3 4 0 g large-dice Standard or
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream that

has been reduced by half
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour

V/ 4 q t/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3), hot
1 . Season the cavity of each chicken with salt and pep

per. Place l sprig each of thyme and rosemary and l
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)
bay leaf inside each cavity.
2 . Rub the skin of the chickens with butter and truss

each chicken with twine.
3 . Place chickens, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting

pan in a 450F/232C oven. Scatter the wing tips in
the pan. Once the chickens have developed a golden
brown appearance, turn down the temperature to
3 5 0 F /i7 7 C .
4 . Roast for 45 minutes, basting from time to time.

Scatter the mirepoix around the chickens and con
tinue to roast until the thigh meat registers an inter
nal temperature of i65F/74C.
5 . Remove the chickens from the roasting pan and al

low them to rest. Hold warm.
6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un
til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour
off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the fat.
1 . Bone out the chicken legs. Lay the meat between

sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Pound
the legs flat with a mallet. Refrigerate until needed.
2 . To make the duxelles stuffing, sweat the shallots in

the butter in a sautoir over medium-high heat until
translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and
saute them until dry to create a duxelles. Season the
duxelles with some of the salt and pepper.
3 . Add the cream, bread crumbs, and parsley and mix

well. If desired, the duxelles can be chilled now and
reserved for later use.
4 . Season the chicken legs with the remaining salt and

pepper. Portion 3 oz/85 g of the duxelles onto each
chicken leg. Fold the meat over the stuffing and
place the stuffed legs on a rack in a roasting pan with
the seam side down.
5 . Brush the chicken legs with the melted butter.
7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 2 minutes,
Roast in a 375F/i9iC oven, basting occasionally,
Whisk in the stock until completely smooth.
until a thermometer inserted in the center of the
8 . Simmer the gravy at about i 8 oF/82C until it
legs reaches a temperature of i65F/74C, 25 to 30
reaches the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30
minutes. The chicken legs should be a light golden
minutes. Degrease and adjust seasoning with salt
brown.
and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
9 . Cut the chickens in half and serve them immediately

with the pan gravy.
6 . Serve each chicken leg on a heated plate with 2 fl

oz/6o mL of the sauce.
Makes 10 servings
Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skinless chicken breasts
/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
MARINADE
Breast o f Rock
Cornish Game Hen
with Mushroom
Forcemeat
Makes 10 servings
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider

Ten 1 lb 4 -o z /5 6 7 -g Rock Cornish game hens
V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom
Forcemeat (recipe follows)
l
1 . Rinse the chicken, pat dry, season with salt and pep
per, and place in a shallow hotel pan.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade and
'/ 2
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter, melted

2 0 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463)
pour over the chicken, turning to coat evenly. Mari

nate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or up to
overnight.
3 . Place the chicken on a rack over lightly dampened

hardwood chips in a roasting pan. Cover tightly and
heat in a 450F/232C oven until the smell of smoke
1 . Remove the breasts from the hens and make them

into supremes. Refrigerate until needed. Remove the
leg and thigh meat and prepare the mushroom force
meat.
2 . Loosen the skin from the breast meat. Season the
is apparent, 6 to 8 minutes. Smoke for 3 minutes
breasts on all sides with salt and pepper. Pipe about
from that point. Transfer the chicken to a baking pan
2 oz/57 g f the forcemeat between the skin and
and finish roasting (without smoke) in a 350F/i77C
meat of each breast. Smooth the surface to spread
oven until cooked through (i65F/74C), 10 to 12
the forcemeat evenly.
minutes more.
4 . Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate until

needed.
Pan-Smoked Chicken
3 . Place the stuffed breasts in a baking dish. Brush

lightly with butter. Roast in a preheated 35oF/i77C
oven to an internal temperature of i65F/74C, 20 to
25 minutes. Baste with additional butter or any pan
juices during baking time.
4 . Heat the Madeira sauce and serve 2 fl oz/6o mL with

each breast (2 supremes).
NOTE: Optional plating: slice each breast on a slight diagonal
into 4 slices and fan the slices out on a warm plate.
483
Mushroom Forcemeat
Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg
12 o z/3 4 0 g Rock Cornish game hens leg
and thigh meat, small dice (see Note)
Roast Duckling with

Sauce Bigarade
Makes 10 servings
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
Five 5 lb 8 -o z/2 .5 0 -k g ducklings
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
T/2
oz/ 7
1 g minced bacon
1 o z /2 8 g butter
25 parsley stems
5 thyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, minced
5 bay leaves
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced white mushrooms
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced morels
SAUCE BIGARADE
1 thyme sprig
3A o z/2 1g su g a r
1 bay leaf
ltb s p /1 5 m L water
4 sage leaves
2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Madeira
2 tb sp /3 0 mL cider vinegar
le g g
3 fl o z/9 0 mL blood orange juice
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream

1 . Season the meat with salt and pepper and refrigerate

until needed.
2 . Place the bacon and butter in a saute pan over me

dium heat. Render the bacon until crisp. Add the
Salt, as needed
5 blood oranges
shallots and garlic and saute until aromatic. Add all

the mushrooms and sweat until barely tender. Add
the thyme, bay leaf, sage, and Madeira. Reduce until
1 . Rinse and trim the ducklings, removing the fat from

the body cavity (reserve for another use, if desired).
almost dry. Remove and discard the bay leaf, thyme,
Place the ducklings, breast side up, on a rack in a
and sage. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
roasting pan. Season them with salt and pepper.
Chill the mixture to below 40F/4C.
Place 5 parsley stems, 1 thyme sprig, and 1 bay leaf
3 . Process the diced meat and egg to a paste in a food

processor, scraping down the bowl periodically. Add
the cream and pulse the machine on and off until
into the cavity of each bird.
2 . Roast the ducklings at 425F/2i8C until the

juices run barely pink and the thigh meat registers
the cream is just incorporated. Transfer to a bowl.
i65F/74C, about 1 hour. Remove the ducklings
Fold in the cooled mushroom mixture. Hold chilled
from the pan and rest for at least 10 minutes before
until ready to use.
carving.
NOTE: This forcem eat can be prepared using any lean diced
poultry meat to replace the leg and thigh meat from the
game hens.
3 . Degrease and deglaze the pan with the stock. Strain

and reserve the drippings.
4 . While the duck is roasting, make the sauce. Combine

the sugar and water in a saucepan. Cook over me
dium heat until the sugar melts and caramelizes to a
deep golden brown, about 1 minute.
well and simmer over medium-high heat until re

duced by half, about 1 minute. Stir to dissolve any
lumps.
6 . Add the demi-glace and stock and bring the sauce to
a boil. Add the reserved pan drippings. Reduce the
with Pan
Gravy and Chestnut
S tu ffin g
Makes 10 servings
heat and simmer over medium heat until a good fla

vor and consistency develops, about 15 minutes. Sea
13 lb /5.90 kg whole turkey
son with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through
cheesecloth and reserve warm.
7 . Remove the zest from the blood oranges, cut it into

julienne, and blanch. Cut the flesh of the oranges
into supremes.
8 . Carve the duck for service by cutting away the breast
from the rib and cutting the leg away from the body.
Place the duck pieces on a sizzler platter, overlap

2 onions, peeled and quartered
12 to 15 parsley stems
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix
(page 243)
ping the leg and breast portions, skin side facing up.
Brush the duckling with a small amount of the sauce
40 fl o z/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
and reheat in a 45OF/2320C oven until it is crisp,

about 5 minutes.
9 . Pool 2 fl oz/6o mL of the sauce on each plate and

place the duckling on the sauce. Garnish with the
blanched orange zest and orange segments.
2 lb 12 o z/1 .2 5 kg Chestnut Stuffing (page 486)
1 . Season the cavity of the turkey with salt and pepper.

Place the quartered onions and parsley stems inside
the cavity.
2 . Rub the skin of the turkey with the butter and truss
with twine.
3 . Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in a roast
5 . Add the wine, vinegar, and blood orange juice. Mix
ing pan.
4 . Roast at 350F/i77C for 3 hours, basting from time

to time.
5 . Scatter the mirepoix around the turkey and continue

to roast until the thigh meat registers an internal
temperature of i65F/74C, 30 to 40 minutes longer.
Remove the turkey from the roasting pan and allow
it to rest.
6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un
til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour
off all but 2 tbsp/30 mL of the fat.
7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 4 to 5 minutes,

until golden. Whisk in the stock until completely
smooth.
8 . Simmer the gravy until it reaches the proper consis
tency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and ad
just seasoning with salt and pepper. Strain through
a fine-mesh sieve. Carve the turkey in portions and
serve it with the pan gravy and chestnut stuffing.
485
4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon fat or butter
Salmon Fillet with

Smoked Salmon and
Florseradish Crust
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed day-old bread
Makes 10 servings
Chestnut Stuffing
Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot

!e g g
1 tsp /1 g chopped sage
8 o z/2 2 7 g shelled, peeled, roasted
chestnuts, chopped
1 ts p /3 g salt
Saute the onions in the bacon fat until tender.

Combine the bread, stock, and egg and add to the
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg salmon fillet, cut

into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
2 ts p /6 g minced shallot
2 ts p /4 g crushed black peppercorns
CRUMB MIXTURE
I V 2 ts p /4.50 g minced shallot
V ats p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic

3 o z /8 5 g butter
onion. Add the parsley, sage, chestnuts, salt, and
pepper. Mix well.
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced smoked salmon
Place the stuffing in a buttered hotel pan and cover
1 o z/2 8 g prepared horseradish
with parchment paper. Bake at 350F/i77C for 45
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Beurre Blanc (page 298)
minutes.
Serve immediately.
1 . Rub the salmon fillets with the lime juice, garlic,

shallots, and peppercorns. Refrigerate while making
the crumb mixture.
2 . To make the crumb mixture, saute the shallots and

garlic in the butter until aromatic, about 1 minute.
3 . Combine the sauteed shallots and garlic, bread

crumbs, smoked salmon, and horseradish in a food
processor and process to a fine consistency.
4 . Portion about 1 oz/28 g of the crumb mixture onto

each fillet.
5 . Bake the salmon in a 350F/i77C oven until it is

opaque pink on the outside and just beginning to
flake, 6 to 7 minutes.
6 . Serve the salmon on heated plates with the beurre
blanc.
sauteing,
The cooking techniques presented in this chapter rely on a fat or oil as the
cooking medium. As the amount of fat varies from a thin film to enough
to completely submerge foods, different effects are achieved.
auteing
ertain m e n u
is a t e c h n i q u e t h a t c o o k s
items listed a s s e a r e d
ess e n t ia lly s a u t e e d
. (Th
traditio nal
.) S
(f
o n d
s a u t e
l e f t in t h e p a n
,a
food
pan
rapidly
-s
e a r e d
in a l i t t l e
,c
h a r r e d
fat o ver
pan
-c
r elatively
h a r r e d
,or
pan
high
-bro
heat
iled are
o s e t e r m s h a v e c o m e to s u g g e s t t h a t e v e n l e s s o i l is u s e d t h a n f o r
a u t eed
dishes
n d a r e co o ked
t y p ic a lly
include
in a n a l a m i n u t e o r
sa u c e
"j u
m a d e
s t in t i m e
"
w ith
the
fa sh io n
drippings
sauteing
Searing may be a f ir s t ste p f o r some roasted, braised, or stew ed foo ds; the y are cooked
q u ickly in a sm all a m ount o f o il over d ire c t heat. The d iffe re n c e betw een searing and s a u te
ing is n o t how the tech niq ue is pe rfo rm e d , b u t th a t tho se fo o d s are n o t cooked co m p le te ly
as a resu lt. Searing is used w ith tho se cooking m ethods as an e ffe c tiv e way to develop
fla v o r and co lo r in con ju nction w ith longer, slo w er cooking.
S tir-fry in g , associated w ith Asian cooking and succe ssfully adapted by innovative
W estern chefs, shares many s im ila ritie s w ith sauteing. Foods are c u sto m a rily cut in to sm all
pieces usually s trip s, dice, or shre ds and cooked rap id ly in a little oil. They are added to
th e pan in sequence; th o se re q u irin g th e lo ng est cooking tim e s are added fir s t, tho se th a t
cook q u ickly only a t the la st m om ent. The sauce fo r a s tir-fry , like th a t o f a saute, is made
or fin is h e d in the pan to cap ture th e dish's e n tire flavo r. Typically, a th in -w a lle d w ok is used
fo r a s tir - fr y w h ile a saute pan is used in th e sauteing m ethod.
Choose cuts fo r sautes o f beef, veal, lamb, pork, and large game animals fro m the rib
or loin, and some p o rtio n s o f the leg. These cuts are the m ost tender. P ou ltry and game bird
breasts are o fte n p re fe rre d fo r sauteing. Firm or m oderately te x tu re d fis h are easier to sau
te than very delicate fish . S hellfish, in and out o f the shell, also saute well. S elect the cooking
fa t according to the fla v o r you w ant to create, fo o d cost, a va ila bility, and smoke point.
The base f o r a pan sauce fo r a saute may va ry to s u it the fla v o r o f the main item . Brown
sauces such as dem i-glace or ju s lie, veloutes, glace (reduced stocks), veg etab le coulis, or
to m a to sauce may be used. C onsult sp e c ific recipes.
A saute pan (also called a sauteuse) has sho rt, sloped sides and is w id e r than it is ta ll
to encourage rapid evaporation. It is made o f a m e ta l th a t responds qu ickly to rapid heat
changes. W oks are used to prepare s tir frie s . Pan-seared and p a n -b roiled ite m s are o fte n
p repared in heavy-gauge pans th a t re ta in heat, such as ca st-iro n sk ille ts .
Have ton gs o r spatulas available to tu rn fo o d s and rem ove the m fro m the pan, holding
pans to reserve fo o d s w h ile a sauce is prepared or finishe d, and all a p p ro p ria te service
ite m s (heated plates, garnishes, and accom panim ents).
basic formula
Sauteing
Small amount of cooking fat or oil
(1 entree portion)
2 tbsp/30 mL liquid, for

deglazing the pan
Salt and pepper, plus other

1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170
to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood
(adjust portion size to account
for bones, skin, or shells)
seasoning as required
2 fl oz/60 mL prepared sauce

base, as appropriate
Aromatics and/or garnishes,

for the pan sauce
Finishing ingredients,
as appropriate
method at-a-glance
Sauteing
Saute the item on both
sides in a hot pan and hot
oil until properly browned.
2. Remove the main item
and finish it in an oven, if

necessary.
3. Deglaze the pan.
4 . Add the liquid fo r the
sauce.
Reduce the sauce.
Add the finishing
ingredients (except butter),
if appropriate.
Adjust seasoning to taste.
Return the main item to
the pan to reheat it, if
necessary.
S tir-fry in g
Heat the oil in a wok or
large saute pan.
Add the main item.
To develop additional
flavor, season the item with
S tir-fry , keeping the food

in constant motion.
additional ingredients prior to
Add additional
ingredients, including
aromatics, in the proper
sequence (longestcooking firs t, shortestcooking last).
Add the liquid fo r the
sauce; add the thickener.
6. Serve the food
immediately.
sauteing:
M A R IN A D E S / SPIC E RUBS / D RIED
SPIC ES
Add additional
i n g r e d i e n t s depending on the
desired result, after sauteing can
further develop the flavor of the item:
W HOLE B U TTE R / SAUCES / GLAZES
use
healthier fats such as olive oil to cook

the main item.
Monte au beurre, if desired.
Chapter 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
1. season the food w ith sa lt and pepper,

as w ell as spice blends or rubs i f a p pro pria te , ju s t b e fore
cooking. Seasoning b e fo re cooking is more e ffe c tiv e than
adding s a lt and pepper a t the end. D usting is op tion al and
should be done ju s t b e fo re adding th e ite m to the pan. Flour
w ill help to absorb excess m oistu re and prevent the item
fro m stic k in g to the pan, and it w ill produce a good surface
color fo r lig h t or w h ite m eats, p o u ltry, and fish. If done, be
sure to coat th e ite m evenly and shake o f f any excess.
S e le ct a pan o f th e a p p ro p ria te size; it should be large
enough so th a t all pieces o f th e main ite m w ill ju s t cover
th e b o tto m o f th e pan w ith o u t overlapping.
H eat th e pan b e fo re adding the fa t; th is is re fe rre d to
as co n d itio n in g th e pan. Add enough f a t to lig h tly film the
pan. The m ore n a tural m a rb lin g o r f a t pre sen t in the foo d,
the less fa t you w ill need in th e pan. W ell-seasoned or
no n stick pans may n o t req uire any fa t beyond th a t which
is already p re se n t in the fo o d . Bring the pan and th e cook
ing fa t to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re b e fo re adding th e food.
To saute red m eats a n d /o r ve ry th in m eat pieces, heat the
cooking f a t u n til th e surface rip p le s and looks hazy. Less
intense heat is req uire d fo r w h ite m eats, fish , and she llfish
as w ell as th ic k e r cuts.
Im m e d ia te ly add th e fo o d to th e pan. Place the food's
p re s e n ta tio n side down o n to th e heated pan f ir s t fo r
th e b e s t-lo o k in g s auteed foo ds. Cook on th e p re se n ta
tio n side u n til brow ned or golden. L e t th e fo o d cook
u n d istu rb e d f o r several seconds up to a m in ute or tw o to
develop th e p ro p e r fla v o r and co lo r in th e fin is h e d saute.
The fo o d may s tic k to th e pan a t f ir s t, b u t it w ill release
its e lf by the tim e it is ready to be turned.
Turn sauteed fo o d s only once to develop good fla v o r
and color. Each tim e th e m eat is turne d, the te m p e ra tu re
o f th e m ea t and pan drops. Sauteed fo o d s are also usually
tu rn e d only once so th a t th e fo n d can develop in th e pan,
although th e re are exceptions. Sauteed shrim p, m ea t cut
in to emince, o r v eg etab le s, f o r exam ple, may be re p e a t
edly to sse d o rtu rn e d .
A d ju s t th e heat under th e saute pan if necessary to
co m p le te coo kin g on th e s to ve to p . In som e cases, sau
te e d fo o d may be fin is h e d in th e oven, e ith e r in th e saute
pan or in a baking dish, sizzle r p la tte r, o r sheet pan.
P rop er doneness depends upon th e fo o d its e lf, safe
fo o d handling, and cu sto m e r p re fe ren ce. Be sure to allow
fo r som e ca rryo ve r coo kin g so th a t fo o d s are not ove r
done by th e tim e you are ready to p u t the m on a plate. For
m ore in fo rm a tio n , review G eneral G uidelines fo r D e te r
m ining Doneness (see page 366). Remove the fo o d fro m
th e pan and to a holding pan in a w arm area w hile p re p a r
ing a sauce d ire c tly in th e saute pan.
490
such as s to c k or w ine to
release th e brow ned drip p in g s, o r fon d, and to give the

sauce a deep and cu sto m ize d fla vo r. To make a sauce
in c o rp o ra tin g th e fo n d in th e saute pan, f ir s t rem ove any
sauteing
2. add a liquid
excess fa t. Add a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts or garnish item s

th a t need to be cooked. Then deglaze th e pan, releasing
th e reduced dripp ing s. W ine, sto ck, o r b ro th are com
m only used f o r th is step.
3. reduce wine or stock u n til nearly dry

(au sec). The sauce base (such as a se p a ra te ly pre pa red
sauce, ju s lie, reduced s to ck, o r ve g e ta b le puree o r coulis) should be added to th e pan and b ro u g h t to a simm er.
Cream, if called fo r, should be added along w ith th e sauce
base so th a t it can reduce p ro p e rly along w ith th e base.
Some sauces may need to be th icke n e d b e fo re th e y are
served; i f so, add a sm all am o un t o f a pure starch s lu rry
u n til th e c o rre c t co n siste n cy is reached.
c h a p te r 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
491
4. finish and garnish a pan sauce in one

o f several ways. It may be stra in e d th ro u g h a fine -m esh
s tra in e r f o r a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re b e fo re adding any
fin is h in g or ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts. S im m er fin is h in g and
g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts in th e sauce long enough fo r them
to be p ro p e rly heated. A d ju s t seasoning w ith sa lt, pepper,
fre s h herbs, ju ices, essences, purees, o r s im ila r item s.
A fte r a fin a l check to be sure th e seasoning is co rre ct,
chefs o fte n o p t to re tu rn th e main ite m (a chicken bre ast
o r veal scallop, f o r exam ple) to th e fin is h e d sauce b rie fly
to co a t and g e n tly re h e a t it. If desired, a sm all am ount o f
w h ole b u tte r may be added ju s t b e fo re serving (m o n te r
au beurre) to add b o th fla v o r and body. The sauce may be
spooned in a pool on th e p la te and th e fo o d se t on top,
o r th e sauce m ay be spooned over th e fo o d (nappe) or
spooned around th e fo o d (cordon). Be sure to w ipe away
any d rip s on th e p la te w ith a clean clo th w ru ng o u t in hot
w a te r b e fo re th e p la te is sen t to th e dinin g room .
The ob je ct o f sauteing is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r
th ro u g h p ro p e r brow ning, w hich serves to in te n s ify the
fo o d 's fla vo r. W eak fla v o r and co lo r in d ica te th a t th e fo o d
was sauteed a t to o low a te m p e ra tu re or th a t th e pan was
to o crow ded. "Good co lo r" depends on th e ty p e o f fo o d .
When sauteed w ell, red m eats and game should have a
deep brow n e xte rio r. W h ite m eats (veal, pork, and p o u ltry )
should have a golden or am ber e xte rio r. Lean w h ite fis h
should be pale go ld when sauteed as skinless fille ts , w hile
firm fis h steaks, like tuna, should ta ke on a d a rker color.
O nly n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s should be sauteed, and a f
te r sau tein g th e y should rem ain te n d e r and m oist. Exces
sive dryness is a sign th a t th e fo o d was overcooked, th a t
it w as cooked to o fa r in advance and held to o long, or th a t
it w as sauteed a t a te m p e ra tu re higher than necessary.
492
Pa
a
-fried
dish
of
fo o ds
h ave
intriguing
is p a i r e d w i t h
the
richly t e x t u r e d
c o n tr a sts
dish
cru st
in t e x t u r e
the e ffec t
can
and
ran g e
and
moist
fla v o r
fro m
. W
h o m e
-s
fl a v o r f u l
hen
t y l e
interio r
c a r e f u ll y
to h a u t e
producing
selec t ed
cuisine
. Pa
sau ce
-fried
F O O D IS A L M O S T A L W A Y S C O A T E D ' D R E D G E D IN F L O U R , C O A T E D W I T H B A T T E R , O R B R E A D E D . F O O D IS
F R I E D IN E N O U G H O I L TO C O M E H A L F W A Y TO T W O ' T H I R D S U P I TS S I D E , A N D IS O F T E N C O O K E D O V E R
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L E S S I N T E N S E H E A T T H A N IN S A U T E I N G .
pan frying
The p ro d u c t is cooked m ore by th e o ils heat than by d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith the pan. In pan f r y
ing, th e h o t oil seals th e foo d's coa ted surface, th e re b y lo cking in th e n a tural ju ice s inside.
Because no ju ice s are released and a la rg e r am ount o f o il is involved, sauces accom panying
p a n -frie d fo o d s are usually made separately.
The o b je c t o f pan fry in g is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r w ith a crisp, brow n c ru s t th a t
acts as a b a rrie r to re ta in ju ice s and flavo r. The actu al co lo r depends upon th e coating, its
thickn ess, and the foo d.
P a n -fried fo o d is usually p o rtio n -s iz e or sm aller. S elect cuts th a t are n a tu ra lly tender,
as you w ould f o r a saute. Rib or loin cuts, to p round, o r p o u ltry b re a sts are all good choices.
Lean fish , such as sole or flou nd er, are also w e ll su ite d to pan fry in g . Trim away any fa t,
silverskin , and g ris tle . Remove th e skin and bones o f p o u ltry and fis h fille ts if necessary
or desired. You may w a n t to pound c u tle ts f o r an even th ickn e ss and to sho rte n cooking
tim e . This means th a t th e e x te rio r w ill brown w ith o u t ove rcoo king in th e same tim e th a t
th e m eat cooks through.
Ing re dients f o r breading include flo u r, m ilk a n d /o r beaten eggs, and bread crum bs or
cornm eal. For in s tru c tio n s on standard breading, see page 365.
The fa t f o r pan fry in g m ust be able to reach high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t breaking down
or sm oking. V egetable oils, olive oil, and sho rte nings may all be used fo r pan fry in g . Lard,
goose fa t, and o th e r rendered anim al fa ts have a place in c e rta in regional and eth n ic dishes.
The choice o f f a t m akes a d iffe re n c e in the fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d dish.
The pan used fo r pan fry in g m ust be large enough to hold fo o d pieces in a single layer
w ith o u t touching. If th e fo o d is crow ded, th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e fa t w ill drop q u ickly and
a good c ru s t w ill n o t fo rm . Pans should be made o f heavy-gauge m e ta l and should be able
to tra n s m it heat evenly. The sides should be higher than tho se a p p ro p ria te f o r sautes, to
avoid splashing h o t o il o u t o f th e pan as fo o d is added to th e o il o r tu rn e d durin g cooking.
Have on hand a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t away surface f a t fro m frie d foo ds. Tongs
or s lo tte d spatulas are ty p ic a lly used to tu rn foo ds. S elect shallow, w ide con tain ers to hold
coatings, breading, o r b a tte rs.
493
b a sic fo rm u la
Pan-Fried Items
(1 en tree portion)
Enough cooking fat or oil to

cover half to two-thirds of
the item being pan fried

seasonings as required
2 to 3 fl oz/60 to 90 mL
Standard breading, batter,

or other coating
prepared sauce
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat the cooking medium.
2. Add the main item (usually
breaded or batter-coated)
to the pan in a single layer.
Depending on the desired result,
different crusts can be
achieved depending on the type of coating used on the item. These coatings
3. Pan fry the food on the
presentation side until well

browned.
4. Turn the food and cook it to
the desired doneness.
include:
BATTERS / BREAD C RU M B S / C O R N M E A L / FLO U R
To develop additional flavor,
season the item with addi
tional ingredients prior to pan frying. These ingredients can also be added to
5. Remove the food and finish
the coating or batter that will be used to cover the item:
it in an oven, if necessary.
FRESH HERBS / D RIE D SPIC E S
6. Drain the food on paper

towels.
7. Season and serve it with
an appropriate sauce and

garnish.
494
1. bread the food using th e sta n d a rd bre a d

ing pro ced ure de scrib ed on page 36 5. F irs t b lo t the fo o d
dry w ith paper to w e ls. Any m o is tu re le ft on th e surface
could make the coating to o m oist. It w ill also break down
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the cooking fa t m ore quickly and cause it to splatter. Sea
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son b e fore coating the food. Foods are usually dipped in

flo u r or a meal, then in egg wash, fo llo w e d by a coa ting o f
bread crumbs. Egg wash is a m ixtu re o f beaten eggs and
water, m ilk, or cream. For best results, w hisk the eggs well
un til they are hom ogeneous in color and the re are no v is
ible clumps o f albumen. Rem em ber to shake o f f any excess
bread crumbs be fore placing th e ite m in the hot fa t. S tan
dard breading can be applied 20 to 25 m inutes in advance.
The pan and th e coo kin g fa t m ust reach th e c o rre c t
te m p e ra tu re b e fo re th e fo o d is added. O therw ise, the
c ru s ts d e ve lo p m e n t w ill be slowed, and it may never
achieve th e de sire d crisp te x tu re and golden brow n color.
As a rule o f thum b, add enough fa t to com e o n e -h a lf to
tw o -th ird s o f th e w ay up th e fo o d ; th e th in n e r th e fo o d ,
the less fa t is req uire d. W hen a fa in t haze or s lig h t shim
m er is n o ticea ble , th e f a t is usually h o t enough. To te s t the
te m p e ra tu re , dip a co rn e r o f th e fo o d in th e fa t. If th e fa t
is a t ab o u t 3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C , it w ill bubble around th e foo d,
m eth o d in detail
and th e co a tin g w ill s ta r t to brow n w ith in 45 seconds.
2. add the food carefully
to th e hot
f a t and cook on th e p re s e n ta tio n side u n til good c ru s t and

c o lo r develop. Exercise e xtre m e cau tion a t th is p o in t to
p re ve n t burns. G e ttin g p a n -frie d fo o d s evenly brow ned
and crisp req uire s th a t th e fo o d be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith
th e h o t fa t. Be sure n o t to ove rcrow d th e pan, o r th e fo o d
may n o t develop good c o lo r and te x tu re . If th e re is n o t
enough fa t in th e pan, th e fo o d may s tic k to th e pan and
tear, o r th e co a tin g m ay com e away. W hen pan fry in g
large q u a n titie s , skim or s tra in away any loose p a rtic le s
betw een batches. Add m ore fre s h f a t to keep th e level
c o n s ta n t and to p re ve n t sm oking o r foam ing.
ch a p te r 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F RYING , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
495
3. turn the food once
and continue to
cook it u n til th e second side is golden and th e fo o d is

p ro p e rly cooked. It is d iff ic u lt to give precise in s tru c tio n s
fo r d e te rm in in g doneness in p a n -frie d foo ds. In general,
th e th in n e r and m ore de lica te th e m eat, the m ore qu ickly
it w ill cook. P a n -frie d item s, like sauteed and d e e p -frie d
item s, even th in pieces, are su b je ct to carryo ver cooking.
It is thu s b e st to s lig h tly undercook. For m ore in fo rm a
tio n , review General G uidelines f o r D e te rm in in g Doneness
on page 366.
Some fo o d s, because th e y are th ic k or include bones
o r a s tu ffin g , may need to be rem oved fro m th e f a t and
placed in th e oven to fin is h cooking. If th e y do need to
go in to th e oven, be sure th a t th e y are n o t covered. A lid
could tra p steam to s o fte n th e crisp coating.
Drain or b lo t p a n -frie d fo o d on clean paper or clo th
tow e ls. The fo o d is ready to serve now. Do n o t hold frie d
fo o d s fo r m ore tha n a very b rie f pe rio d b e fo re serving.
They te n d to g e t soggy quickly. Do n o t cover frie d fo o d s if
th e y need to be held fo r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e ; hold in dry
heat on an open rack. Serve sauces fo r p a n -frie d fo o d s
under th e fo o d or se p a ra te ly to preserve th e crust.
496
Q rt>
D e e p - f r ie d
a
c r is p
cooked
fo o ds
have
m a n y
of
th e
s am e
c h a r a c t e r is t ic s
as
pan
- f r ie d
fo o d s
, in c l u d in g
, b r o w n e d e x t e r io r a n d a m o is t , f l a v o r f u l in t e r io r . H o w e v e r , d e e p - f r ie d f o o d s a r e
in e n o u g h
fat or o il to c o m p l e t e l y s u b m e r g e t h e m
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T3
. In d e e p f r y in g , s ig n if ic a n t l y m o r e
FA T IS U S E D T H A N F O R E I T H E R S A U T E I N G O R PAN F R Y I N G .
i*<
deep frying
Orq
The fo o d is a lm o st always coated w ith a stan dard breading, a b a tte r such as a tem pu ra or
beer b a tte r, o r a sim ple flo u r coating. The co a tin g a cts as a b a rrie r betw een the fa t and the
fo o d and also c o n trib u te s fla v o r and te x tu re . Deep fry in g is also su ita b le fo r c ro q u e tte s
and s im ila r dishes made fro m a m ix tu re o f cooked, diced m eats, fish , o r p o u ltry , bound w ith
a heavy becham el and breaded.
To cook ra p id ly and evenly, fo o d s m ust be trim m e d and cu t in to a u n ifo rm size and
shape. S e le ct cuts th a t are n a tu ra lly te n d e r; some ty p ic a l choices include p o u ltry, seafood,
and vegetables. Remove the skin and bones o f p o u ltry and fis h fille ts i f necessary o r de
sired. Be c e rta in to season th e fo o d b e fo re adding a coating.
Breadings and coatings are com m on fo r d e e p -frie d foo ds. S tandard breading can be
done 20 to 25 m inutes ahead and the item s re frig e ra te d b e fo re fry in g , b u t id ea lly bre ad
ing should be done as close to service as possible. For stan dard bre ad ing in stru ctio n s, see
page 365. A b a tte r o r plain flo u r co a tin g is applied im m e d ia te ly b e fo re cooking.
E le c tric o r gas deep fry e rs w ith baskets are ty p ic a lly used f o r deep fry in g , although it
is also fe a s ib le to f r y fo o d s on th e s to v e to p in a large pot. The sides should be high enough
to pre ven t f a t fro m fo a m in g over or splashing, and th e p o t w ide enough to allow th e chef
to add and rem ove fo o d s easily. Use a d e e p -fa t fry in g th e rm o m e te r to check th e fa t's te m
perature , reg ard less o f w h e th e r you use a fry e r o r a pot. Become fa m ilia r w ith the frye r's
reco very tim e (the tim e needed fo r th e fa t to regain th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re a fte r fo o d is
added). The fa t w ill lose te m p e ra tu re f o r a b rie f tim e when fo o d is added. The m ore food,
th e m ore the te m p e ra tu re w ill drop and th e longer it w ill ta ke to com e back to th e p ro pe r
level.
K itchens th a t m ust fr y m any kinds o f fo o d o fte n have several fry e rs to help p re ven t f la
vo r tra n s fe r. Have a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t frie d fo o d s b e fo re th e y are served.
Tongs, spiders, and baskets help add fo o d s to the fry e r and rem ove the m when p ro p e rly
cooked.
ch a p te r 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP F R Y IN G
497
basic formula
Deep Frying
Enough cooking fat or oil to
(1 entree portion)
completely submerge the food
Standard breading, batter,

or other coating


seasonings as required
2 to 3 f I oz/60 to 90 mL
prepared sauce
method
at-a-glance
H eat the fa t to th e proper
te m p era ture .
Add the main ite m (usually
Depending on the desired result, different crusts canbe
breaded or b a tte r-c o a te d )
achieved depending on the type of coating used. These coatings include:
to the h ot fa t, using the

a p p ro p ria te m ethod.
B ATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / FLO U R
Turn the fo o d during fryin g ,
i f necessary.
season the item with addi
tional ingredients prior to deep frying. These ingredients can be added to the
Remove th e fo o d and fin ish
coating or batter used to cover the item:
i t in an oven, if necessary.
FRESH HERBS / D RIED SPIC E S
5 . B lo t th e fo o d w ith paper
tow els.
Season and serve it w ith
th e a p p ro p ria te sauce and
garnish.
o a>
1. heat the cooking fat
to th e p ro p e r
te m p e ra tu re (ge ne rally 3 2 5 to 3 7 5 F /1 6 3 to 191C).
CD
T5
The fa t m ust reach and m a intain a ne arly ste a d y te m p e ra

tu re th ro u g h o u t th e fry in g tim e to pre pa re crisp, fla v o rfu l,
and nongreasy frie d fo o d s. P rop er m aintenance o f o il w ill
help e xte nd its life . Old fa ts and oils have a d a rke r color
and m ore pronounced arom a than fre s h oil. They may also
i*<
CTQ
sm oke a t a lo w er te m p e ra tu re and foa m when fo o d s are

added. Be sure to s tra in or f ilt e r th e o il p ro p e rly a fte r
each m eal period. Replenish th e fry e r's oil to th e a p p ro p ri
ate level if necessary.
The sw im m ing m e th o d o f fry in g is generally used fo r
b a tte re d foo d. To coat prepped fo o d w ith ba tte r, du st it
f ir s t w ith flou r, then shake o f f th e excess b e fo re dropping
it in to th e ba tte r. Remove the fo o d w ith tongs and b rie fly
le t any excess b a tte r d rip o ff. C a refully low er the b a t
te re d fo o d halfw ay in to the h o t oil w ith the tongs, or w ith
your fing ers, using extra caution. When it s ta rts to bubble,
release it; it w ill n o t sink. The b a s k e t m e th o d is generally
used fo r breaded item s. Place th e breaded fo o d in a fry in g
basket and then low er b o th the fo o d and the basket in to
the hot fa t. Once th e fo o d is cooked, use the ba sket to lif t
o u t the foo d. Foods th a t w ould tend to rise to the surface
to o rap id ly are held down by s e ttin g a second basket on to p
o f the fo o d ; th is is known as th e doub le-b aske t m ethod.
The choice betw een the tw o m ethods o f deep fry in g
depends on th e foo d, th e coating, and the intended result.
Use all your senses as w ell as a th e rm o m e te r to accurately
judge in te rn a l doneness. For m ore in fo rm a tio n , review Gen
eral G uidelines fo r D e te rm ining Doneness on page 366.
2. fry food until it is fully cooked

and th e co a tin g is a lig h t golden brown. Drain on paper
to w e ls b e fo re serving. E valuate th e q u a lity o f the fin ish e d
d e e p -frie d fo o d . D e e p -frie d fo o d s should ta s te like the
fo o d , n o t like th e fa t used (or like o th e r fo o d s p re vio usly
frie d in th e fa t). Foods served ve ry hot, d ire c tly fro m the
fry in g k e ttle , have a b e tte r, less g re asy ta s te . If th e fo o d
ta s te s heavy, greasy, o r s tro n g ly o f a n o th e r fo o d , th e fa t
was n o t h o t enough, th e f a t was to o old, o r a s tro n g ly f la
vored fo o d such as fis h was frie d in th e same fa t.
W ell-prepared de e p -frie d fo o d has a m o ist and ten der
interior, w ith a crisp, delicate crust. If the crust has become
soggy, the fo o d may have been held to o long a fte r cooking
or, again, the o il was n o t a t the co rre ct tem pe rature .
499
Sauteed Chicken with

Fines Herbes Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Fines Herbes Sauce

2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter
3/4 oz/21 g minced shallots
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g
boneless chicken supremes
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
6 o z/1 7 0 g Fines Herbes (page 369)
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Jus de Volaille Lie (page 293), Jus

de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)

2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
3A o z/21 g minced shallot

Salt, as needed

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Fines Herbes Sauce (recipe follows)
4 o z/1 1 3 g Fines Herbes (page 369)
1 . Heat the butter in a small sauce pot over mediumhigh heat. Add the shallots and sweat until translu
cent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and fines herbes
1 . Blot the chicken dry and season with salt and pep
per. Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Saute the chicken
and simmer at 180 to i85F/82 to 85C until nearly

dry.
2 . Add the jus lie, bring back to a simmer, and reduce

slightly. Add the cream and continue to simmer the
on the presentation side until golden brown, about
sauce to reach a good flavor and consistency, skim
3 minutes. Turn the chicken and continue to saute
ming as necessary.
until cooked through ( i 8 oF/82C). Remove the
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce.
chicken from the pan and keep warm while complet
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
ing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute them
cooled and refrigerated for later use if using demiglace.
until translucent, about l minute.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine. Reduce it until

almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the fines herbes
sauce, simmer briefly, and reduce to a nappe
consistency.
5 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in the

fines herbes.
6 . Serve the chicken immediately with the sauce or
hold hot for service.
NOTE: For banquet production of sauteed items, the sauce
can be prepared in advance. The quality o f the sauce
can vary because the pan drippings cannot always be
incorporated into a premade sauce.
500
NOTE: This sauce can also be prepared a la minute using

1 tbsp /1 5m L glace de volaille fo r each chicken breast.
B ee f Tournedos Provencal: Substitute ten 6-oz/170-g

beef tournedos fo r the chicken and red wine fo r the
Makes 10 servings
w hite wine. Season the beef w ith salt and pepper and
saute to desired doneness follow ing the above method:
2 minutes per side fo r rare (135F/57C), 3 minutes per
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g chicken supremes
side fo r m edium-rare (145F/63C), AV2 minutes per

side fo r medium (160oF/71C), 6 minutes per side for
medium-well (165F/74C), and 7 minutes per side fo r
well-done (170F/77C). Remove the beef from the pan
and reserve warm while finishing the sauce follow ing
the above method. Tender cuts of meat should never be
simmered in the sauce as it may cause them to toughen.
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
PROVENCAL SAUCE
3 anchovy fillets, mashed to a paste
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Jus de Volatile Lie (page 293), Jus
12 o z/3 4 0 g tomato concasse
4 o z/1 1 3 g black olives, sliced or cut into julienne
1 . Blot the chicken dry and season with salt and pep
per. Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 .. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Saute the chicken
on the presentation side until golden brown, about
3 minutes. Turn the chicken and continue to saute
until cooked through ( i 65F/74C). Remove the
chicken from the pan and keep warm while complet
ing the sauce.
3 . Pour off the excess fat from the pan and add the
garlic and anchovies; saute for 30 to 40 seconds to
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Chicken Provengal
release their aroma. Add the wine to deglaze the pan

and simmer until almost dry.
4 . Add the jus lie and any juices released by the

chicken. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency.
Add the tomatoes, olives, and basil. Adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper as needed.
5 . Return the chicken to the oven to reheat. Serve im

mediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
NOTE: You may elect to use d iffe re n t kinds o f olives in this
dish, introduce some capers, or add other herbs, either
in addition to or as a replacement fo r the basil. Oregano,
marjoram, chives, chervil, and thyme are all good choices.
501
wttm
Veal Scaloppine
Marsala
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg veal top round or

tender leg cut, cut into emince
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round,

cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
4 ts p /1 3 g s a lt
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
3 o z/8 5 g chopped shallot
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced mushrooms
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Marsala Sauce (page 504)

5 o z /1 4 2 g butter, diced (optional)
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/6
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper.

Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
1 . Blot the veal dry and season with salt and pepper.
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the veal to
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Working in batches,
saute the veal, stirring from time to time, until the
the desired doneness, about 2 minutes per side for

medium (i65F/74C). Remove the veal from the pan
and keep warm while completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute until
desired doneness (i65F/74C), about 3 minutes.

Remove the veal from the pan and keep warm while
translucent, about 1 minute.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost
completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and mushrooms
dry, about 3 minutes. Add the Marsala sauce and

simmer briefly.
and saute until softened and translucent, about 3
Emince o f Swiss-Style
Veal
5 . Return the veal to the sauce to reheat. Return the
minutes.
sauce to a simmer and adjust seasoning with salt and

pepper as needed. Swirl in the butter to finish the
dry, about 3 minutes.
sauce, if desired.
5 . Add the jus lie, cream, brandy, and any juices re

leased from the veal. Reduce until a good flavor and
6 . Serve the veal immediately with the sauce or hold

hot for service.
consistency is achieved, 1 to 2 minutes.

6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt
and pepper, if necessary.
7 . Serve the veal immediately with the sauce or hold
Pork S caloppine w ith Tom ato Sauce: Substitute boneless

pork loin fo r the veal and Tomato Sauce (page 295) fo r
the Marsala sauce.
hot for service.
Chapter 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
503
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced mushrooms
Noisettes of Pork with

Green Peppercorns
and Pineapple
Makes 10 servings
Marsala Sauce
24 f I o z/7 20 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page

3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork leg or loin,

cut into twenty 3 -o z/8 5 -g noisettes
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Marsala
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt
Salt, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, diced (see Notes)
3/ t o z/21 g minced shallot

1 . Saute the shallots and mushrooms in a saucepan

until the mushrooms are tender and the shallots are
translucent. Add Marsala and reduce by half.
2 . Add the jus lie and simmer at 180 to i85F/82 to

85C until the sauce has developed a good flavor and
consistency.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce into a
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 264), Jus

1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
1 o z/2 8 g drained green peppercorns
clean saucepan.
4 . Whisk in the butter. Adjust seasoning with salt and
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
pepper. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be
rapidly cooled, refrigerated, and reheated for later
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork to
use if using demi-glace.
145F/63C, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the

pork from the pan and keep warm while completing
NOTES: As an option, 8 f l o z/2 40 mL heavy cream may be

substituted fo r the butter. The sauce may need to be
reduced slightly to achieve the proper consistency.
Whisk in the bu tte r only if using the sauce immediately.
If storing fo r later use, whisk in the bu tte r ju st before
using.
If using the sauce fo r Veal Scaloppine Marsala, om it the
butter.
the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute them

until translucent, about 1 minute.

dry, about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the stock, cream, and any juices released by the

pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Strain
into a clean saucepan and return to a simmer.
6 . Add the mustard, pineapple, and peppercorns and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Return the pork to the sauce to reheat.
7 . Serve 2 noisettes per serving with the sauce immedi

ately, or hold hot for service.
504
Winter Fruit Sauce

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL semidry white wine
3'/2 o z/9 9 g dried apricots (sulfur free)
Makes 10 servings
P /4 o z/5 0 g dried cherries
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork loin, cut

into twenty 3 -o z/8 5 -g medallions
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
5 o z/1 4 2 g peeled, small-dice Red Delicious apples
4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, small-dice B artlett pears
2 fl o z/6 0 mL apple-flavored brandy
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 264), Jus

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL W inter Fruit Sauce (recipe follows)
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
Salt, as needed
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork to

145F/63C, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the
1 . Heat the wine in a small saucepan to just below
pork from the pan and keep warm while completing
a boil. Remove from the heat and add the dried
the sauce.
apricots and cherries. Let the fruit soak in the wine
3 . Degrease the pan. Deglaze the pan with the wine;
(macerate) for 30 minutes. Drain the fruit and re
reduce until almost dry, about 3 minutes.
serve the wine separately.
4 . Add the fruit sauce and any juices released by the
2 . Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium
pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Ad
heat and add the shallots. Saute until translucent,
just seasoning with salt and pepper.
1 to 2 minutes. Add the apples and pears and saute

until lightly browned.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce or hold

hot for service.
3 . Add the brandy to deglaze the pan and reduce until

almost dry. Add the reserved wine and bring to a
simmer. Add the stock and bring to a simmer again.
sauteing, pan trying, and deep trying recipes
Sauteed Medallions
o f Pork with W inter
Fruit Sauce
Simmer until reduced to a good flavor and con

sistency. Add the macerated fruit and season with
lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

ch a p te r 18
S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
505
Pork Medallions with

Warm Cabbage Salad
Makes 10 servings
Warm Cabbage Salad

Makes 10 servings
l 3/ t o z/5 0 g minced bacon
1 o z/2 8 g butter
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg pork tenderloin, cut

into thirty 2 -o z/5 7 -g medallions
3 '/ 2
o z/9 9 g small-dice red onion
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V i o z/1 4 g minced garlic
2 lb /9 0 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade
l 3/ t f I o z/5 3 mL sherry vinegar
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar Sauce (page 450)
1 ts p /2 g caraway seeds
10 servings Warm Cabbage Salad (recipe follows)
Salt, as needed
2 !. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork 2 to
1 . Cook the bacon in a saute pan over medium heat un
3 minutes per side to i6oF/7iC. Remove the pork
til the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp. Remove
from the pan and keep warm while completing the
the bacon with a slotted spoon, allowing the fat to
sauce.
drain back into the pan. Reserve the bacon.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the wine to deglaze the

pan; reduce until almost dry.
4 . Add the sherry vinegar sauce and any juices released

by the pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce and

warm cabbage salad or hold hot for service.
2 . Add the butter to the pan. Add the onions and

garlic and saute until translucent and tender, 2 to 3
minutes.
3 . Add the cabbage, toss to coat evenly with the fat, and
saute until limp, stirring frequently, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the vinegar, sugar, and caraway seeds, and bring

to a simmer. Cook until the cabbage is very hot and
tender, 3 to 4 minutes more. Add the parsley. Season
N o ise tte s o f P ork w ith Red Onion C o n fit: Saute the pork
follow ing the above method. Replace the warm cabbage
salad w ith red onion confit. To make the red onion confit,
simmer 2 lb /9 0 7 g sliced red onions w ith 4 fl oz/120
mL honey, 4 f I oz/1 20 mL red wine, and 5 f I oz/150 mL
red wine vinegar until the mixture is the consistency
o f marmalade, about 40 minutes. Adjust seasoning
w ith salt and pepper. Keep warm fo r service or cool and
refrigerate fo r later service. See the accompanying
photo fo r this variation.
with salt and pepper.
5 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
Pork Cutlet with

Sauce Robert
Makes 10 servings
Sauce Robert
2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped shallot
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork leg or

loin, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Dijon mustard
Salt, as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Sauce Robert (recipe follows)

4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, diced
1 . Pound each portion of pork between sheets of parch

ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/
6 mm.
2 . Blot the cutlets dry and season with salt and pepper.
3 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Working in batches,
saute the pork on the presentation side until golden
1 . Heat the clarified butter in a medium saucepan over

medium-low heat. Add the shallots and saute until
2 . Add the wine and peppercorns, bring to a simmer,

and reduce by half.
3 . Stir in the demi-glace, return to a simmer, and cook

for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the flavors
brown, about 3 minutes. Turn the pork and continue
of the aromatics have infused and the sauce has
to saute until done (i45F/63C), 2 to 3 minutes. Re
thickened. Strain the sauce into a clean pan and re
move the cutlets from the pan and keep warm while
turn to a simmer.
completing the sauce.
4 . Degrease the pan and deglaze with the wine; reduce

until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the sauce
Robert and any juices released from the pork. Cook
until heated through, stirring constantly. Adjust sea
4 . Add the mustard and lemon juice. Season with salt

and pepper.
5 . Finish the sauce by swirling in the diced butter. The

sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled
soning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce or hold

hot for service.
Sauce C harcutiere: Add V/ 2 oz/43 gjulienned cornichons to

the sauce along w ith the mustard and lemon juice.
Trout Amandine
Makes 10 servings
Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g trout fillets
Makes 10 servings
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skin-on red snapper
fillets, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk, or as needed (optional)
Pinch ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole butter
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Grapefruit Salsa (page 955)
5 o z/1 4 2 g slivered almonds

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL lemon juice
1 . Season the snapper with the salt and pepper. Dredge
the flesh of the snapper, but not the skin, in the

flour, shaking off the excess.
1 . Blot the trout fillets dry and season with salt and
2 . Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat.

Saute the snapper until golden brown and cooked
through, 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on
thickness of the fillet.
3 . Serve immediately with the salsa.
pepper. Dip the trout fillets into milk, if desired, and

dredge with flour, shaking off any excess.
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over

medium heat. Saute the trout for 2 to 3 minutes
on each side, or until the flesh is opaque and firm
(i45F/63C). Remove the fish from the pan and
keep warm while completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the whole butter. Cook the
butter over medium-high heat until lightly browned
with a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the almonds, stir to coat them evenly, and toast

lighly until golden brown. Add the lemon juice and
swirl to deglaze the pan. Add the parsley.
5 . Serve the trout immediately with the sauce or hold
sauteing, pan trying, and deep trying recipes
Red Snapper with

Grapefruit Salsa
hot for service.
509
Ancho-Crusted Salmon w ith Yellow Pepper Sauce, Stewed Black

Beans (page 775), and Summer Squash Noodles (page 704)
Yellow Pepper Sauce

Makes 32 fl oz/ 9 6 0 mL
2
t b s p /3 0 mL olive oil
12 o z /3 4 0 g sliced onion
Makes 1 0 servings
1 t s p /3 g sliced garlic
2 ancho chiles
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g yellow peppers, seeded and chopped
1 tb s p /6 g cumin seeds
5 o z /1 4 2 g chopped fennel
1 tb s p /6 g fen n el seeds
One 2 -in /5 -c m cinnamon stick
4'/> ts p /7 .5 0 g coriander seeds
'A ts p /0 .5 0
1 tb s p /6 g black peppercorns
V/ 2
1 tb s p /6 g dried thym e
3A
1 tb s p /6 g dried oregano
8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r
l '/ 2 o z / 4 3 g s a l t
3 o z /8 5 g tom atillos, q uartered
1 tb s p /6 g dry m ustard
2 t b s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed
3 lb 12 o z /1 .7 0 kg salmon fille t, cut

into ten 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g portions
Salt, as needed
g ground allspice
ts p /3 g dried epazote
o z /2 1 g sugar
1 . Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-
3 tb s p /4 5 mL clarified b u tte r or oil

2 0 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Yellow Pepper Sauce (recipe follow s)
high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until
translucent, about 8 minutes.
1 . Remove and discard the stems and seeds from the
2.. Add the peppers, fennel, cinnamon, allspice, epa

zote, sugar, and water.
chiles. Roughly chop the chiles.
2.. Toast the chiles, cumin, fennel, and coriander seeds

on a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven until fragrant,
about 5 minutes. Remove and cool to room
3 . Cover the pot and simmer on low heat until the pep
pers are soft, about 25 minutes.
4 . Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree with the
temperature.
tomatillos until very smooth. Strain through a large-
3 . Combine the toasted spices with the peppercorns,

thyme, and oregano in a spice grinder. Grind to a
holed strainer.
5 . Season with the lime juice and salt. The sauce is
coarse powder. Stir in the salt and dry mustard.
Ancho-Crusted
Salmon with Yellow
Pepper Sauce
ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and
4 . Lightly coat each portion of salmon with the spice
rub. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over

medium-high heat. Saute the salmon on the pre
sentation side until the spices start to brown, l to 2
minutes.
5 . Flip the salmon over and cook over medium heat or

in a 350F/i77C oven for 4 to 6 minutes (depending
on thickness of cut), until desired doneness.
6 . Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
c h a p te r 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
511
Vatapa
Makes 10 servings
4 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the tomato

paste. Saute for 1 minute. Deglaze with the wine.
Add the stock and reserved coconut water and bring
1 whole coconut (about 1 lb 14 o z/8 5 0 g)

to a boil. Reduce the mixture by half, about 10 min

utes. Reduce the heat to low, whisk in the roux, and
simmer for 15 minutes longer.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count),

peeled and deveined, shells reserved
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL brandy
5 . Add the cream and reduce over medium heat to a

nappe consistency, 1 to 2 minutes. Strain the sauce
through a fine-mesh sieve.
6 . Season the monkfish with the salt and pepper and

dredge in flour. Saute the monkfish in the remain
2jalapenos, small dice
ing oil over high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, then add
2 'A o z/71 g chopped unsalted peanuts
the shrimp. Saute both until cooked through, 2 to 3
21/2 o z/71 g grated ginger

minutes. Add the sauce. Check the consistency and

seasoning of the vatapa.
7 . Serve immediately, garnished with the tomatoes, the
toasted coconut, peanuts, and cilantro, or hold hot
l / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Shellfish Stock (page 264), Fish

Fumet (page 264), or Chicken Stock (page 263)
for service.
3 o z/8 5 g White Roux (page 246)

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg monkfish, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
'A ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper
4 o z /1 13 g all-purpose flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and small-diced tomato
4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted unsalted peanuts
3 tb sp /9 g cilantro leaves
1 . Split the coconut in half and reserve the water. Re

move the flesh, peel off the brown skin, and shred
the flesh. Toast 4 oz/113 g of the shredded flesh in
a 350F/i77C oven until a light golden brown; re
serve. Reserve the remaining shredded coconut for
the sauce.
2 . Heat 3 tbsp/45 mL of the oil in a large saute pan over

high heat. Saute the reserved shrimp shells until
pink and slightly caramelized, 45 seconds to 1 min
ute. Add the brandy and flambe the shells.
3 . Add the onions, garlic, jalapenos, the reserved shred

ded coconut, chopped peanuts, and ginger to the
shrimp shells and saute for 3 minutes.
Shrimp Ticin-Xic
Makes 8 servings
33A o z/1 0 6 g achiote paste
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g chopped white onion

Ten 9 to 1 0 -o z /2 5 5 to 2 8 4 -g pan-dressed trout
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g cloves
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
6 garlic cloves
Pinch ground allspice
l
'/2
ts p /5 g salt

4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL Seville orange juice
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white vinegar
B tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
3 3/ t f l o z/1 1 3 mL lime juice
1 . Blot the trout dry and season with salt and pepper.
3A o z/21 g serrano chiles, stems removed

2 lb /9 0 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined
Dredge in flour.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil (optional)

medium heat. Working in batches, saute the trout
until lightly browned and cooked through, 3 to 4
2 banana leaves, cut into 6 -in /

15-cm squares (optional)
minutes per side. Remove the trout from the pan

and keep warm while completing the sauce.
1 . In a food processor or blender, puree the achiote
3 . Degrease the pan and add the whole butter. Cook the
paste, onions, cloves, garlic, allspice, black pepper,
butter over medium-high heat until lightly browned
salt, orange juice, vinegar, lime juice, and chiles until
with a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
smooth.
4 . Add the lemon juice to the pan and swirl to deglaze
2.. Place the shrimp in a shallow dish and pour the
it. Add the parsley and pour or spoon the sauce over
puree over. Marinate for 1 hour, refrigerated, before
the trout. Serve immediately.
cooking.
3 . The shrimp can be cooked in two ways. Saute the

shrimp in the olive oil over high heat until cooked,
2 to 3 minutes. Alternatively, place 4 shrimp in the
Sauteed Trout a la
Meuniere
middle of each banana leaf square and fold the cor

ners of the leaf over the shrimp to make a package.
Secure the package with butchers twine or a strip
of banana leaf. Heat a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet
over medium heat. Working in batches as necessary,
cook the shrimp for 4 minutes and flip the packages
over. Cook the shrimp for another 4 minutes or until
the shrimp is just cooked through. Unwrap from the
banana leaves before serving.
ch a p te r 18 S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
513
Bibimbap
Makes10servings
MARINADE
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Korean soy sauce
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
3A o z/21 g minced green onion, green and white parts
1 tb sp /6 g sesame seeds, toasted and ground
1 ts p /5 mL dark sesame oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g beef skirt steak, cut into julienne

8 o z/2 2 7 g red radish, cut into julienne
8 o z/2 2 7 g daikon, cut into julienne
8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, cut into julienne
8 o z/2 2 7 g English cucumber, cut into julienne
10 shiso leaves chiffonade
8 o z/2 2 7 g iceberg lettuce chiffonade
2 V i f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
10 eggs
4 lb 6 o z/1.98 kg Steamed Long-Grain Rice (page 785)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Korean red pepper paste
1. Com
binethesoysauce,sugar,greenonions,garlic,
ginger,sesameseeds,sesameoil,andpepperina
hotelpan.Addthebeef,stirtocoat,cover,andre
frigeratefor24hours.
2.. Tosstogethertheradish,daikon,carrot, cucum
ber,
shiso,andlettuceandrefrigerateuntilservice.
3. Heat2floz/6om
Lofthevegetableoilinawokover
medium-highheat.Drainthebeefandstir-fryuntil
barelycookedthrough,3to4minutes. Removefrom
thepanandreservewarm.
4.H
eattheremaining1tbsp/15mLoftheoilinalarge
nonsticksautepanovermedium-highheat. Frythe
eggssunny-sideup.
5. Foreachportion,tossabout1V2oz/43gofthestir-fried
beefwithabout4oz/113gfrawvegetablesandserve
themontopof7oz/198goftherice.Slideafriedegg
outofthepanontopofthebeefandvegetables.
6. Serveimmediatelywith2tbsp/30mLpepperpaste
ontheside.
Breast o f Chicken
w ith Duxelles S tu ffin g
and Supreme Sauce
Makes 10 servings
I V 2 o z/4 3 g sliced garlic
Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped cilantro root

1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 lb /9 0 7 g squid tubes and tentacles,

cut into large bite-size pieces
2 lb /9 0 7 g Duxelles Stuffing (page 482)

8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
3 o z/8 5 g green onion, green and

white parts cut into julienne
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL oyster sauce
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL clarified butter or o il, or as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL fish sauce
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
1 . Trim the chicken supremes and remove the skin,
if desired. Butterfly each breast portion and pound

1 o z/2 8 g Thai basil leaves
between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap

to even thickness.
1 . Combine the garlic, cilantro root, chiles, and pep

percorns in a blender and process to a paste.
blot dry the chicken and season with salt and pep
2 . Heat the oil in a wok over high heat, add the paste,
and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
Overlap the edges to form a seam.
brown on the edges, 3 to 4 minutes.
3 . Apply a standard breading: Dredge the chicken in
4 . Add the peppers and stir-fry about 1 minute more.

5 . Add the green onions, oyster sauce, fish sauce, sugar,
and stock. Cook until the squid is just cooked, 2 to 3
6 . Add the basil and toss well. Serve immediately or

per. Spread each breast with a portion of the dux

elles stuffing and roll the breast around the stuffing.
3 . Add the squid and stir-fry until half cooked and
minutes.
2 . At the time of service or up to 3 hours in advance,
flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs.

(Refrigerate, seam side down, on a wire rack over a
sauteing, pan trying, and deep frying recipes
Stir-Fried Squid with

Thai Basil
sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
4 . Heat about Vz in/i cm butter to about 35oF/i77C

in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the
chicken to the butter, seam side down first, and pan
fry until golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes.
Turn once and finish pan frying on the second side
until the chicken reaches an internal temperature
of 170F/77C, about 3 minutes more. (Finish cook
ing in a 350F/i77F oven once the crust is properly
browned, if preferred.)
5 . Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve

immediately with the heated sauce.
5 15
B utterm ilk Fried

Chicken
Makes 10 servings
Country Gravy
3 o z/8 5 g minced slab bacon, rind removed
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter
Four 3 lb 8 -o z/1 .5 9 -k g chickens,

cut into 10 pieces each
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL buttermilk
4 tb sp /1 2 g minced tarragon
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Dijon mustard
r
/2
ts p /2 g poultry seasoning

2 o z/5 7 g minced celery
I /2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
21/ o z/71 g all-purpose flour

I /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb /4 5 4 g chicken wings, browned
2 lb /9 0 7 g all-purpose flour
1 bay leaf
l 1/t s p / 3 g cayenne
Salt, as needed
V 2 o z/1 4 g Old Bay seasoning
2 q t/1 .9 2 L peanut oil, or as needed

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Country Gravy (recipe follows)
1 . Render the bacon in the butter over medium-low

1 . Combine the chicken pieces with the buttermilk,
tarragon, mustard, poultry seasoning, and 2 tbsp/
20 g salt. Mix well and marinate, covered, in the re
frigerator overnight.
2 . Combine the flour with the cayenne, Old Bay, and

the remaining salt. Mix well.
3 . Drain the chicken and discard the marinade. Dredge

in the flour and let sit for at least 30 minutes on a
wire rack.
4 . Heat the oil in a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over

medium-high heat. Dredge the chicken in the flour
again. When the oil reaches 350F/i77C, pan fry the
chicken in batches until golden brown on both sides,
about 15 minutes.
5 . Finish the chicken on a roasting rack placed over a

sheet pan in a 350F/i77C oven until it reaches an
internal temperature of i8oF/82C.
6 . Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve
immediately with the country gravy or hold hot for
service.
heat until crisp, about 8 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, and garlic and sweat until the
onions are translucent, 4 to 6 minutes.
3 . Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat to make

a pale roux.
4 . Add the stock, wings, and bay leaf. Season with salt
and pepper.
5 . Simmer the gravy until good flavor and consistency

develop, 1V2 to 2 hours, skimming as necessary. Add
the cream and return the gravy to a simmer.
6 . Strain the gravy. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper.
7 . The gravy is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly

B utterm ilk Fried Chicken w ith Country Gravy, Whipped

Potatoes (page 735), and Braised Collards (page 710)
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets
Veal Cordon Bleu
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings

cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions

cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g salt
1 ts p /3 g salt
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced ham
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced Gruyere
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil or clarified

butter or lard, or as needed

ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/
6 mm.
8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs, or as needed

2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil or clarified
butter or lard, or as needed
2 0 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce
(page 440), or as needed
2 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad

vance, apply a standard breading: Blot the veal dry,
season with salt and pepper, dredge in flour, dip in
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of % in/6
egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs. (Refrigerate on a
wire rack over a sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
3 . Heat about Vs in/3 mm f fat t0 about 35oF/i77C in
2 .. Top each scaloppine with V2 oz/14 g each of the ham

and cheese. Roll the veal around the ham and cheese
a large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan over medium
to form a half-moon shape. Carefully pound the
heat. Working in batches, add the breaded veal to the
open ends between parchment paper or plastic wrap
hot oil and pan fry on the presentation side for about
to seal the cordon bleu.
2 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Turn

once and finish pan frying on the second side until it
reaches an internal temperature of i6oF/7iC, 1 to 2
minutes more.
4 . Drain the veal briefly on paper towels and serve im

mediately or hold hot for service.

vance, apply a standard breading to the veal: Dredge
the veal in flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread
crumbs. (Refrigerate on a wire rack over a sheet pan
if breaded in advance.)
4 . Heat about V2 in/i cm oil to about 35oF/i77C in a

large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan over medium
W iener S chnitzel: Prepare and cook the cutlets as directed

above. Heat 4 o z /1 13 g b u tte r in a'large saute pan,
sautoir, org risw o ld until it sizzles, a b o u t2 minutes. Add
the pan-fried veal to the hot bu tte r and turn to coat on
both sides. Serve at once on heated plates w ith lemon
wedges or slices and parsley sprigs.
Pan-Fried Breaded Pork C u tlet: S ubstitute an equal
amount o f boneless pork loin fo r the veal. Prepare the
cutlets as directed above.
heat. Add the veal to the hot oil and pan fry on the
presentation side for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden
brown and crisp. Turn once, and finish pan frying on
the second side until it reaches an internal tempera
ture of i6oF/7iC, about 2 minutes more. (Optional:
Finish cooking in a 350F/i77C oven, if preferred.)
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately

with the mushroom sauce or hold hot for service.
Milanese Sauce
Makes 32 fl
0 Z/960
mL
3 fl o z/ 90 mL clarified butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g white mushrooms, cut into julienne
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL dry red wine
Makes 10 servings
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)

3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg boneless veal top round,
cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)

4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, cut into julienne
4 eggs, beaten
2 o z/5 7 g beef tongue, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan
4 ts p /4 g chopped parsley
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 ts p /3 g salt

1 . Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium
20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Milanese Sauce (recipe follows)
heat. Add the mushrooms and shallots and saute

until the shallots are just translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.

ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of % in/
6 mm.
2 . Add the wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the
tomato sauce and jus lie. Simmer until the sauce has
reduced by about one-quarter to one-half, depending
2 . Combine the eggs and Parmesan in a bowl, mix well,

and reserve.
on desired consistency.
3 . Add the ham, tongue, and parsley and simmer un
3 . Heat about V2 in/i cm oil in a large sautoir, griswold,

or saute pan to about 350F/i77C over medium
til all the ingredients are hot. Season with salt and
pepper.
heat.
4 . Blot the veal dry, season with salt and pepper, dredge
in flour, dip in the egg mixture, and dredge again in

flour. Add the veal to the hot oil and pan fry on the
Veal Piceata with

Milanese Sauce
(Piccata di Vitello alia
Milanese)
presentation side for about 2 minutes. When golden

brown and crisp, turn once, and finish pan frying on
second side until it reaches an internal temperature
of i6 o cF/7iC, 2 minutes more.

with the Milanese sauce or hold hot for service.
NOTE: Do not place the veal in the egg mixture if not cooking
immediately, as the ba tte r w ill run o ff the veal and it will
need to be dipped again before frying.
519
Fisherman's Platter
Remoulade Sauce
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g flounder fillets, cut

into l-o z/28-g g o u jo n ettes
20 littleneck clams, shucked
20 oysters, shucked
20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined
10 o z/2 8 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 ts p /3 g salt
28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)

2 o z/5 7 g chopped drained capers
3 tb sp /9 g minced chives
3 tb sp /9 g chopped tarragon
1 ts p /5 mL anchovy paste
Salt, as needed
Worcestershire sauce, as needed
Tabasco sauce, as needed
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed

seasoning with salt, pepper, Worcestershire, and
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Tabasco. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be
20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows)

vance, blot dry the fish, clams, oysters, shrimp, and
scallops and season with lemon juice, salt, and pep
per. Apply a standard breading: Dredge each piece
in flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs.
(Refrigerate if breaded in advance.)
2.. Heat about V2 in/i cm oil to about 350F/i77C in a

large sautoir, saute pan, or griswold over medium
heat. Add the fish and seafood to the hot oil and pan
fry on the presentation side until golden brown and
crisp, about 2 minutes. Turn once and finish pan fry
ing on the second side until each variety reaches an
internal temperature of 145F/63C, 1 to 2 minutes
more. (Finish cooking in a 350F/i77C oven once
the crust is properly browned, if preferred.)
3 . Drain the fish and seafood briefly on paper towels

and serve immediately. Serve 2 goujonettes, 2 clams,
2 oysters, 2 shrimp, and 1 scallop per serving with 2
fl oz/6o mL remoulade sauce.
520
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust
6 . Combine the potatoes with the salt cod. There

should still be small flakes of the cod visible
throughout the potato mixture.
Makes 10 servings
7 . Combine the eggs, mustard, Worcestershire sauce,

parsley, and chilled onions and garlic with the cod
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g salt cod fillets
mixture and season with the salt and pepper. Chill

thoroughly.
2 q t/1 .92 L water
8 . Portion the cod mixture into 3-oz/85-g cakes ap
1 q t/9 6 0 mL milk
proximately 2V2 in/6 cm in diameter and 1 in/3 cm
3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes
thick.
9 . Lightly coat the cakes in the panko. Wrap a piece
4 ts p /1 2 g minced garlic
of bacon around the outside of each cod cake and
2 o z/5 7 g butter
secure the bacon with a toothpick. Refrigerate the
3 eggs
assembled cod cakes for 30 minutes prior to pan
4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL mustard
frying.
10 . Heat about 4 fl oz/120 mL of the oil in a large sau
4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce
toir over medium-high heat until it shimmers but

V i o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
is not smoking. Pan fry the cod cakes until golden
2 ts p /6.50 g salt
brown, crisp, and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes
per side. Add clean oil to the pan when necessary.
11 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately or
3 o z /8 5 g p a n k o
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced slab bacon, rind removed

1 . Rinse the salt cod in several changes of water. Soak

overnight, refrigerated, in the fresh water.
2 .. The next day, remove the salt cod from the water,
cut into large chunks, and simmer in the milk over
medium low heat for about 15 minutes.
3 . Discard the milk and rinse the salt cod under cold
Old-Fashioned Salt
Cod Cakes
water. Taste the cod; it should not be salty. If it

is still salty, repeat as necessary with fresh milk.
Remove and discard any bones or skin and shred
or chop the cod into fine pieces. Refrigerate until
thoroughly chilled.
4 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.

Cook the potatoes by boiling or steaming until
tender enough to mash easily. Drain and dry them
over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 3ooF/i49C
oven until no more steam rises from them. While
the potatoes are still hot, puree them through a
food mill or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
5 . While the potatoes are cooking, sweat the onions

and garlic in the butter in a medium saute pan over
medium heat until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes.
Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
521
Pan-Fried BrookTrout
with Bacon
Makes 10 servings
15 slices bacon
10 brook trout (6 to 10 o z/1 7 0 to 2 8 4 g
each), pan dressed and boned
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL buttermilk, or as needed
2 lemons, cut into wedges
1 . Lay the bacon in a single layer on parchment paper

on a sheet pan. Cook in a 375F/i9iC oven until
crisp, about 15 minutes. Cut each slice in half cross
wise and reserve.
2 . Season the interior of each trout with salt and pep

per. Lay in a hotel pan and pour over the buttermilk.
3 . Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet or saute pan

over medium-high heat until it shimmers but is not
smoking. Lightly dredge the trout in flour and shake
off excess.
Flounder a 1'Orly
Makes 10 servings
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg flounder fillet, cut
into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g salt
All-purpose flour, as needed
22 f I o z/6 6 0 mL Beer Batter (recipe follows)
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
20 parsley sprigs
10 lemon wedges
1 . Heat the oil to 350F/i77C in a deep fryer or tall

pot.
2 . At the time of service, blot the fish dry and season

with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Dip in flour,
shake off any excess, then dip into the beer batter.
Place the flounder into the oil, and deep fry until
golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.

with 2 fl oz/6o mL of tomato sauce, 2 parsley sprigs,
and 1 lemon wedge.
4 . Pan fry the trout until cooked through, 4 to 5 min

utes per side; lower the heat as needed to avoid
scorching.
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels.

6 . Lay 3 slices of bacon on top of each trout and serve
immediately with a lemon wedge, or hold hot for
service.
Beer Batter
Makes 22 fl oz/6o mL
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g baking powder
1 ts p /3 g salt
1 egg, separated
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL beer
1 . Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

Add the egg yolk and the beer all at once, and whisk
until very smooth. Keep chilled until service.
2 . At the time of service, whip the reserved egg white

to soft peaks. Fold the white into the batter and use
at once.
Tempura Dipping Sauce
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg shrimp (1 6 /2 0
count), peeled and deveined

8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266)

5 o z/1 4 2 g finely grated daikon
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sesame oil
1 tb sp /9 g finely grated ginger
TEMPURA BATTER
3 eggs, beaten
Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and warm
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water
slightly over low heat. The sauce is ready to serve

now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
8 o z/2 2 7 g crushed ice
later use.
13 o z/3 6 9 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Tempura Dipping
1 . If desired, make a couple of incisions on the stomach

side of each shrimp so that it stays straight. Refriger
ate until service.
2 . Combine the vegetable, peanut, and sesame oils in a

heavy deep pot or fryer. Heat to 350F/i77C.
3 . To make the batter, combine the eggs, water, and ice.

Add the flour and mix gently. Do not overmix.
4 . Lightly dredge the shrimp in flour. Pick up the

shrimp by their tails and dip the bodies only in the
batter to coat lightly. Immediately deep fry until
crisp and white or light golden brown.
5 . Drain the shrimp on paper towels and serve immedi

ately with the dipping sauce.
chapter 18 S A U T E I N G , PAN FR Y IN G , A N D D E E P FR Y IN G
ShrimpTempura
523
Crispy TangerineFlavored Chicken

Makes 10 servings
5 . At service, heat the peanut oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, green onions,
tangerine skin, and chiles and stir-fry until aromatic,
15 to 30 seconds.
6 . Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add
MARINADE
the red peppers and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add the
2 tb sp /3 0 mL light soy sauce
broccoli and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes.
'/ 2
ts p /4.50 g minced garlic
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken

thighs, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
7 . Add the fried chicken and stir-fry to reheat, 1 to 2

minutes.
8 . Slowly add the sweet garlic sauce, stirring constantly
to coat the chicken and vegetables in the sauce.
Sweet Garlic Sauce
COATING
1 egg, beaten
2 /2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g cornstarch
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
2 f I o z/6 0 mL peanut oil
V A o z/3 5 g minced green onion, green and white parts
2 ts p /1 0 mL hot bean paste
o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onion,

green and white parts
2'/2 fl o z/7 5 mL Shaoxing wine
'/2
'/2
o z/1 4 g dried tangerine skin, rehydrated and minced
2 ts p /7 g chopped dried red chiles

8 o z/2 2 7 g white mushrooms, quartered
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into l-in /3 -c m squares
8 o z/2 2 7 g broccoli florets, blanched
2'/2 fl o z/7 5 mL rice wine vinegar

5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g sugar
2 ts p /1 0 mL sesame oil
2'/2 o z/7 1 g cornstarch, mixed with
water to make a slurry
14 fI o z/4 2 0 mL Sweet Garlic Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add

1 . Combine the soy sauce, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pour
the marinade over the chicken and refrigerate for 20
minutes.
2 . Heat the vegetable oil to 350F/i77C in a heavy,

deep pot.
3 . To make the coating, mix the egg, water, and corn
aromatic, 15 to 30 seconds.
2 . Add the bean paste and stir-fry for 15 to 30 seconds

more.
3 . Add the soy sauce, rice wine, vinegar, and stock and
bring the mixture to a boil.
starch to a smooth paste. Drain the chicken and
4 . Stir in the sugar and sesame oil and return to a boil.
combine it with the coating.
5 . Gradually add the cornstarch slurry to the sauce un
4 . Deep-fry the chicken until golden brown, crisp, and

cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain briefly on pa
per towels and reserve warm.
524
the ginger, garlic, and green onions and stir-fry until
til it becomes medium thick.

Hanoi Fried Fish with

Dill (Cha Co Thong
Long)
Makes 10 servings
Vegetable oil as needed
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg firm bean curd, cut

into V H n /l-c m -th ic k triangles
4 o z /1 1 3 g ric e flo u r
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 tb sp /11 g green onion, green and

white parts, thinly sliced
3 lb /1.36 kg catfish fillet, cut into 2-in/5-cm squares

2 tb s p /3 0 mL peanut oil
3 tb sp /71 g hot bean paste

3 tb sp /71 g Chinese black bean sauce
4 o z/1 1 3 g green onion, green and

white portions, cut into julienne
1 tb sp /6 g Korean chili powder
30 Thai basil leaves, halved lengthwise
10 o z/2 8 4 g shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
60 cilantro leaves
8 o z/2 2 7 g snow peas, strings removed,

cut in half on the diagonal
60 dill sprigs, stemmed

1 lb /4 5 4 g rice noodle vermicelli, cooked
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into batonnet
2 'A o z/7 1 g pan-roasted peanuts
8 o z/2 2 7 g bean sprouts
16 f I o z /4 8 0 mL Vietnamese
Dipping Sauce (page 9 5 6)
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetarian oyster sauce

2 tb sp /3 0 mL dark sesame oil
1 . Combine the rice flour, turmeric, and salt in a large
2 tb sp /6 g minced cilantro
bowl. Heat the vegetable oil to 375F/igiC.
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 . Toss the fish in the flour mixture, shake off excess,
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
and immediately deep fry until golden and crisp, 2 to
1 ts p /2 g ground Szechuan peppercorns
3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and reserve warm.
3 . Heat the peanut oil in a wok. Stir-fry the green on

1 . Heat the oil to 35oF/i76C in a heavy pot. Working
ions for about 5 seconds. Add the basil, cilantro, and
in batches if necessary, deep fry the bean curd until
dill and stir-fry just until the herbs wilt, 30 to 45 sec
golden brown, about 5 minutes. Drain well on paper
onds. Remove immediately.
towels and reserve.
Grandmother's Bean
Curd (Ma Po Dofu)
4 . Serve the fish on a bed of the noodles topped with
2 . Heat the peanut oil in a wok. Add the ginger, garlic,

and green onions and stir-fry until aromatic, about
the herb mixture. Garnish with the peanuts and

serve with Vietnamese dipping sauce.
1 minute. Add the bean paste, black bean sauce,

and chili powder and stir-fry 1 minute more. Add
the mushrooms, snow peas, red peppers, and bean
sprouts and stir-fry until the vegetables are tender, 6
to 8 minutes.
3 . Add the bean curd, oyster sauce, sesame oil, cilantro,

salt, and pepper. Stir-fry to heat through, about 3
minutes. Finish with the ground peppercorns.
NOTE: For a traditional Ma Po Dofu, add 1 lb /4 54 g cooked
ground beef to the wok w ith the bean curd in step 3.
527
Fried Fish Cakes

Makes 10 servings
10 Thai chiles
l
'/2
Chiles Rellenos con

Picadillo Oaxaqueno
Makes 10 servings
o z/4 3 g shallots
2 garlic cloves
V i o z/1 4 g cilantro root or stems
1 tb sp /9 g minced galangal
3 kaffir lime leaves
1 ts p /3 g salt
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g white-fleshed fish fillets, minced
2 tb sp /3 0 mL fish sauce
4 o z/1 1 3 g long beans, sliced into paper-thin rounds
1 q t/9 6 0 mL peanut oil
2 0 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Cucumber Salad (page 922)
1 . Grind the chiles, shallots, garlic, cilantro, galangal,

lime leaves, and salt to a paste in a food processor.
2 . Combine the spice paste, fish, fish sauce, and beans
PICADILLO OAXAQUENO
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork shoulder,
cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice white onion
2 ts p /6 g roughly chopped garlic
I / 2 tb sp /1 5 g salt, plus more as needed
3 tb s p /4 5 mL canola oil
14 o z/3 9 7 g diced white onion
2 tb s p /1 8 g minced garlic
2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, diced
2 tb sp /2 0 g raisins, chopped
2 ts p /8 g drained capers, chopped
2 o z/5 7 g pitted green olives
2 tb s p /2 5 g chopped almonds
and knead until well combined and the consistency
2 o z/5 7 g parsley
is slightly tacky.
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g cloves
3 . Shape into 2 1/ 2 -o z lr/ i- g round, flat pucks. Refrigerate

until ready to cook.
4 . Heat the oil to 350F/i77C in a deep fryer or tall

pot. Deep fry the cakes until golden brown on the
outside and they float to the top of the oil, about 3
minutes.
5 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g black peppercorns
1 ts p /2 g Mexican cinnamon
2 ts p /1 0 mL white vinegar
2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r
CALDILLO
2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes
the cucumber salad, or hold hot for service.

4 o z/1 1 3 g diced white onion
r
/2
tb sp /2 2.50 mL canola oil
2 bay leaves
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
CHILES RELLENOS
2 lb /9 0 7 g poblanos
3 /2
o z/9 9 g all-purpose flour
5 eggs, separated
Salt, as needed
2 q t/1 .9 2 L vegetable oil
To make the picadillo, in a large pot combine the

pork, medium-dice onion, and chopped garlic.
1 2 . Lightly beat the egg yolks, just to combine. Whip

the egg whites to stiff peaks in an electric mixer.
Cover with water and season with salt as needed.
Fold the remaining V2 oz/14 g flour into the egg
Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to
yolks and season with salt. Lighten the mixture by
low and simmer until the meat is tender, about 1V2
folding one-third of the beaten egg whites into the
hours.
yolks. Fold in the remaining egg whites.
Drain the pork and discard the broth, onion, and
1 3 . Heat the vegetable oil to 350F/i77C in a heavy
garlic. Allow the pork to cool. Use your fingers or
pot. One at a time, dip the chiles into the egg mix
two forks to shred the pork.
ture and fry until golden brown. Drain on paper
3 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau over medium
towels and keep warm.
1 4 . Serve the chile rellenos with the caldillo sauce.
heat. Saute the diced onions until tender, 3 to 4

minutes. Add the garlic and saute until aromatic,
about 1 minute more. Add the tomatoes and saute
until cooked through, stirring occasionally, 8 to
10 minutes. Stir in the raisins, capers, olives, al
monds, and parsley.
4 . In a spice grinder, grind the cloves, peppercorns,

and cinnamon. Stir into the tomato mixture. Re
duce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.
5 . Remove from the heat and stir in the pork, vinegar,

sugar, and 1V2 tbsp/15 g salt. Mix well. Allow the
picadillo to cool completely before stuffing the
chiles.
To make the caldillo, place the tomatoes in a me

dium stockpot. Add the water and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until
the tomatoes are fully cooked, 10 to 12 minutes.
7 . Drain the tomatoes and reserve the cooking liquid.

Puree the tomatoes with the onion and garlic in a
food processor or blender to make a smooth sauce.
8 . Heat the oil in a large pot and cook the tomato
1 .
sauce, stirring frequently, until it deepens in color

and turns a rust-red color. Add the bay leaves and
enough cooking liquid to create the desired sauce
consistency. Simmer the sauce over low heat for 30
minutes.
9 . Remove the bay leaves and season with salt. The

caldillo is ready to use now or may be cooled rap
idly and refrigerated for later use.
10 . To make the chiles rellenos, stuff the poblanos

with the picadillo, taking care not to overstuff.
Close the seam of the chiles around the filling.
1 1 . Dredge the stuffed chiles in 3 oz/85 g of the flour,

shaking off any excess.
529
Tinga Poblano
Makes 10 servings
7 . Saute the diced onion in the reserved fat over

medium-high heat until just turning brown, about
5 minutes. Add the pork and saute until golden and
3 lb /1.36 kg boneless pork shoulder,

slightly crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes
V/ 2 medium white onions, peeled
potatoes, chorizo, chipotles, vinegar, 1 tbsp/10 g salt,
2 garlic cloves
and cook to heat through, about 3 minutes. Add the

and the sugar and heat through. Taste and add more
chipotles if the tinga is not spicy enough.
8 . Garnish the tinga with avocado and onion slices.

12 o z/3 4 0 g red-skin potatoes, peeled
2 f I o z/6 0 mL canola oil
12 o z/3 4 0 g Mexican chorizo
V / 2 white onions, finely diced
2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, diced
8 canned chipotles in adobo sauce,
cut into '/4-in/6-m m strips
4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL apple cider vinegar
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar
2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and thinly sliced
V 2 white onion, very thinly sliced
1 . Place the pork in a i2-in/30-cm sautoir and cover

with water. Bring just to a boil, drain, and discard
the water.
2 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the whole onion,

garlic, and water to cover. Season with 1V2 tsp/5 g
salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer
and cook until the pork is tender, about 45 minutes.
3 . Drain the pork and discard the broth, onion, and

garlic. Allow the pork to cool. Use your fingers or
two forks to finely shred the pork. Reserve.
4 . Boil the potatoes in salted water until cooked al

dente, about 15 minutes.
5 . Drain the potatoes and allow to cool. Cut into me

dium dice and reserve.
6 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat
and fry the chorizo until cooked through, 5 to 7 min
utes. Drain off the excess fat and reserve the chorizo.
530
NOTE: The tinga poblano can be served with boiled rice or

black beans and tortillas.
teaming ar
ubmersion
Moist-heat techniques steaming, cooking foods en papillote, shallow poaching,
deep poaching, and simmering rely on liquid and/or water vapor as the
cooking medium. Monitoring cooking temperatures and times vigilantly and
determining doneness accurately are key to a mastery of moist-heat methods.
o o ked s u r r o u n d ed
by w ater va po r
in a c l o s e d c o o k i n g v e s s e l
st ea m e d fo o d s have c le a n
CLEAR FLAVORS. S T E A M CIRCULATING AROUND THE FOOD PROVIDES AN EVEN, MOIST ENVIRONMENT.
S
team in g
po u ltr y
m uch
.P
is a n
efficient
an d
r o per ly st ea m e d
o ft h e ir
highly
effectiv e
fo o ds a re p l u m p
original v o l u m e
w a y
moist
to
,an
pr epare
d t e n d e r
n a t u r a lly
;t
ten d er
fish
and
h e y g e n e r a l l y do not lose
steaming
They o fte n re ta in m ore in trin s ic fla v o r than fo o d s cooked by o th e r m ethods because the
cooking m edium does not ge ne rally im p a rt much fla v o r o f its own. Colors also stay true.
The be st fo o d s fo r stea m ing are n a turally te n d e r and o f a size and shape th a t allow
them to cook in a s h o rt am ount o f tim e. Cut fo o d in to the a p p ro p ria te size, if necessary.
Fish is ge ne rally cooked as fille ts , though th e re are some ty p ic a l p re se n ta tio n s o f whole
fish . S im ilarly, boneless, skinless p o u ltry bre asts (suprem es) steam well. S he llfish can be
le ft in th e shell, unless o th e rw ise in dica ted; f o r exam ple, scallops are c u sto m a rily rem oved
fro m the shell. Shrim p may also be peeled b e fo re steam ing.
M any d iffe re n t liquids are used fo r steam ing. W ater is com mon, b u t a fla v o rfu l b ro th
or stock, c o u rt bouillon, wine, or beer can also be used, esp ecially if the stea m ing liquid is
served along w ith th e foo d. A dding a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as herbs and spices, citru s
zest, lem ongrass, ginger, garlic, and m ushroom s to th e liquid bo osts its fla v o r as w e ll as
th a t o f th e fo o d being steam ed. S om etim es fo o d is steam ed on a bed o f vegetables in a
closed vessel; th e veg etab le s' natural m oistu re becom es p a rt o f the steam bath cooking
the fo o d . Fillings, m arinades, and w ra pp ers can all be used in p re pa ring steam ed foods.
Fish is som e tim es w rapped in th is w ay to keep it e x c e p tio n a lly m oist.
Sm all am ounts o f fo o d can be steam ed using a sm all in sert. Larger q u a n titie s, or fo o d s
th a t req uire d iffe re n t cooking tim es, are b e tte r prepared in a tie re d steam er. It is im p o r
ta n t to allow enough room fo r steam to circu la te com p le te ly around fo o d s as th e y cook to
encourage even, rapid cooking.
Pressure steam ers, which reach higher te m p e ra tu re s than tie re d steam ers, and con
vectio n steam ers are good choices fo r stea m ing large q u a n titie s. The ch e f can then p re
pare a p p ro p ria te ly sized batches th ro u g h o u t a meal perio d or handle th e m ore intense
demands o f a banquet o r in s titu tio n a l meal situ a tio n .
532
tn
r+
0 )
basic formula
Steamed Items
(1 entree portion)
1 portion-size cut (6 to 8 oz/170 to
227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood
Enough steaming liquid to last
Salt and other seasonings

for both the main item and
2 to 3 f I oz/60 to 90 mL
prepared sauce
QTQ
the steaming liquid

Additional finishing and
garnishing ingredients
throughout the cooking time
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Bring the liquid to a boil.

2. Add the main item to the
steamer in a single layer on

a rack.
3. Cover the steamer.
4. Steam the food to the
correct doneness.
For additional flavor,
replace some or all of the water with:
BROTH / F R U IT JUICES, SUCH AS O R ANG E, A P PLE, C R A N B E R R Y / STOCK
Depending on the desired result, the liquidcanbe

flavored with aromatic vegetables:
5. Serve the food
im m ediately w ith the

appropriate sauce and
garnish.
CAR R OTS / C E LE R Y / O N IO N S
Depending on the desired result, the liquidcanbe

flavored with herbs and spices:
BAY LEAF / CHO PPED GA R LIC / CHO PPED P A R S L E Y / CHO PPED T H Y M E / C O R I
A N D E R SEEDS / CRACKED PE P PE R C O R NS / C U M IN SEED S / GRATED GING ER
ch a p te r 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N COOKING
533
1. bring the liquid
and any
a d d itio n a l a ro m a tics to a fu ll b o il in a covered vessel.

Add enough liq u id to th e b o tto m o f the stea m e r to la st
th ro u g h o u t cooking. A dd in g m ore liquid to th e p o t during
coo kin g low ers th e coo kin g te m p e ra tu re and lengthens
th e tim e needed to pre pa re steam ed foo ds. If you m ust
add liquid, pre h e a t it.
2. place the main item
in th e stea m e r
in a single layer. If c oo kin g m ore than one layer o f fo o d at

a tim e , use a tie re d steam er. Foods may be placed on the
rack on p la te s or in shallow dishes to c o lle c t any ju ices
th a t m ig h t escape.
A d ju s t th e heat to m a intain even, m od era te heat. L iq
uids do n o t need to be a t a ro llin g b o il in o rd e r to produce
steam . In fa c t, rapid b o ilin g may cause th e liquid to cook
away to o fa s t.
Replace th e lid and steam u n til done. Since stea m ing
is done in a closed coo kin g vessel, it can be m ore d iffic u lt
than o th e r m etho ds to gauge how lo n g fo o d needs to
cook. Recipes may te ll how long to steam fo o d s fo r the
c o rre c t doneness. S till, it is im p o rta n t to s ta r t checking
fo r doneness a t th e e a rlie s t p o in t a t which th e fo o d m ig ht
be done.
R em em ber to t i l t th e lid away fro m you as you open
it so th a t th e stea m w ill sa fe ly v e n t away fro m your face
and hands.
534
in
3. cook steamed foods u n til th e y are ju s t

done and serve im m e d ia te ly. S team ed fo o d s can easily
becom e ru b b e ry and dry, so be c a re fu l n o t to overcook
them . Any ju ice s fro m th e fo o d should be nearly colorle ss.
When done, th e fle s h o f fis h and s h e llfis h loses its tra n s lucency, ta k in g on a ne arly opaque appearance. The shells
o f m ollusks (m ussels, clam s, and oyste rs) open, th e fle s h
tu rn s opaque, and th e edges curl. C rustaceans (shrim p,
crab, and lo b s te r) have a b rig h t pink or red co lo r when
done. P o u ltry tu rn s opaque, and the fle s h o ffe rs litt le re
sistance when pressed w ith a fin g e rtip .
Serve th e fo o d im m e d ia te ly on heated pla te s w ith
an a p p ro p ria te sauce, as desired, o r as in d ica te d by the
recipe. R e m e m b e rth a t stea m e d fo o d con tinu es to cook
a fte r it com es o u t o f th e steam er.
Because no in itia l b ro w n ing o f th e fo o d ta ke s place,
th e fla v o r rem ains d e lica te . Any a ro m a tics a p p ro p ria te to
th e foo d's fla v o r should n o t be so in te nse as to overw helm
th e main item . W hen p ro p e rly done, th e foo d's surface
appears q u ite m o ist. Fish, e sp ecially salmon, should not
have d e p o sits o f w h ite album in on th e fle sh , w hich in
dica te s th a t it has been overcooked a n d /o r cooked to o
quickly.
ch a p te r 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
535
In t h is v a r ia t io n
of
s t e a m in g
, w h i c h t r a n s l a t e s l i t e r a l l y a s " i n p a p e r , t h e M A I N I T E M A N D
A C C O M P A N Y I N G I N G R E D I E N T S A R E W R A P P E D IN A P A R C H M E N T P A P E R P A C K A G E A N D C O O K E D I N T H E
STEAM
PRODUCED
BY T H E IR O W N JU IC E S . E n PA PILLO TE IN D IC A T E S A S P E C IF IC
P R E P A R A T IO N , BUT
TH ER E ARE S IM IL A R D IS H E S , K N O W N BY R E G IO N A L N A M ES, T H R O U G H O U T TH E W O R LD .
joking en papillot
The classic w ra pp er f o r a dish en p a p illo te is pa rchm e nt paper, b u t the e ffe c t is sim ila r
when alum inum fo il, le ttu ce , plantain, grape o r banana leaves, corn husks, o r sim ila r w ra p
pers are used to enclose fo o d s as th e y c oo k th e w ra p p e r tra p s th e steam driven fro m the
fo o d as it heats up. The dish is o fte n p re sen te d to th e gu e st s till in its wrapper, and when
th e packet is opened, it releases a cloud o f a ro m a tic steam.
Foods prepared en p a p illo te should be cooked u n til ju s t done. This is d iffic u lt to gauge
w ith o u t experience, because you cannot open the package to see or fe e l fo r doneness. If
the fo o d has been cu t to the c o rre c t size or i f it has been p a rtia lly cooked in advance, it
should be done when th e package is very p u ffy and the paper is brown. P e rfo rm in g a fe w
te s t runs o f an en p a p illo te dish w ill help esta blish a re liab le cooking tim e fo r th e dish, p ro
vid ed th a t th e in g re d ie n ts are c o n s is te n tly prepared beforehand.
Cooking en pa p illo te , like steam ing, is su ite d to n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s like chicken,
fish , and she llfish . Trim and p o rtio n fo o d as req uire d by th e recipe. It may be m arinate d or
seared as an in itia l step, if a p p ro p ria te . A m arinade can add fla v o r and color; searing helps
to assure th a t th ic k e r cuts cook m ore qu ickly and deepens bo th the fla v o r and color o f the
seared item . Some fo o d s may be fille d or s tu ffe d .
Include veg etab le s f o r m o istu re as w e ll as flavo r, color, and te x tu re . Cut th e vegetables
sm all, usually in to th in slices, a fin e julienne, o r tin y dice, and sw e at o r blanch them , if nec
essary, to ensure th a t th e y w ill be fu lly cooked. Leave herbs in sprigs, cu t the m in to a c h if
fonade, or mince them . A lso have available a prepared sauce, reduced heavy cream , wine,
or citru s ju ice s as req uire d by the recipe.
To cook en p a p illo te , you w ill need parchm ent paper (or o th e r w ra pp ers as required
by the recipe), sizzler p la tte rs o r baking sheets, and service item s. Cut the w ra pp er large
enough to allow th e fo o d and any a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts to f i t c o m fo rta b ly w ith o u t over
crow ding.
Cooking en Papillote
(1 entree portion)
1 portion (4 to 6 oz/113 to 170 g)
prepared meat, poultry, or seafood
Up to 2 tbsp/30 mL of a
cooking liquid (stock, sauce,
wine) or enough naturally moist

vegetables to produce steam
Additional finishing and garnishing

ingredients, as desired
method
at-a-glance
Cut parchment paper
into a heart shape o f the
appropriate size and bu tter
or oil it.
2. Place a bed o f aromatics,
vegetables, or sauce on one

half o f the paper, then top
the bed w ith main item.
3. Fold the paper in half; fold
and crimp the edges.

4. Place the paper packet on a
hot sizzler platter.
cooking en papillote
Q basic formula
expert tips
choose well-seasoned liquids
to produce the steam that will cook the main item:

STOCK / BROTH / W IN E / SAUCES
Adding them directly into the packages will infuse flavor throughout the cook
ing process. Certain ingredients, such as moist vegetables, can also create
additional steam:
M IR E P O IX / VEG E TAB LE S / FRESH HERBS
5. Bake the packet until it is
puffed and browned.

6. Plate the packet and serve
it immediately.
c h a p te r 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
537
1. assemble the packages, cut the

p a rchm e nt or o th e r w ra p p e r in to h e a rt o r o th e r shapes
large enough to hold th e fo o d on one h a lf w ith a l- in /3 - c m
m argin o f paper all th e w ay around.
L ig h tly o il or b u tte r th e w ra p p e r on both sides to
p re ve n t it fro m burning. Arrange a bed o f vegetables, a ro
m atics, or sauce on one h a lf o f the w ra p p e r and to p it w ith
th e main item .
2. fold over the other half,
then
crim p th e edges o f th e paper or fo il, or tie th e pa cket se

cu re ly to seal it. Sealing th e edges o f th e package keeps
in th e steam so th a t it can p ro p e rly cook th e food.
538
th e package is p u ffe d and th e paper is brow ned. C a re fu lly

m o n ito r th e oven te m p e ra tu re , because d e lic a te fo o d s
such as fis h f ille t s can ove rcoo k quickly.
As th e package cools, it w ill begin to d e fla te , so serve
en p a p illo te dishes as soon as possible. For a d ra m a tic
p re se n ta tio n , have th e se rve r cu t open th e package in
fr o n t o f th e guest.
M eats, fish , and p o u ltry pre pa red en p a p illo te or
by s im ila r tech niq ue s should be cooked acco rding to
doneness stan dard s f o r th e kitch e n o r to gu est p re fe r
ence (see T em peratures and D e scrip tio n s o f Degrees o f
Doneness, page 36 7). Sauces, coo kin g liquids, and o th e r
cooking en papillote
3. place the package on a sizzler

p la tte r o r baking she et and bake in a m edium oven u n til
in g re d ie n ts should also have a fu ll fla v o r and be p ro p e rly

cooked.
Chapter 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
539
S h a l l o w P O A C H I N G , L I K E S A U T E I N G A N D G R I L L I N G , IS A N A L A M I N U T E T E C H N I Q . U E . F O O D S A R E C O O K E D
IN A C O M B IN A T IO N
OF STEAM
AND S IM M E R IN G
LIQ.UID. S h A L L O W P O A C H E D
FO O D S ARE P A RTIALLY
S U B M E R G E D IN L I Q . U I D , W H I C H O F T E N C O N T A I N S A N A C I D ( w i N E O R L E M O N J U I C E ) . A R O M A T I C S , S U C H
A S S H A L L O T S A N D H E R B S , A R E A D D E D F O R M O R E F L A V O R . C O V E R T H E PA N T O C A P T U R E S O M E O F T H E
S T E A M R E L E A S E D B Y T H E LIQ.U ID D U R I N G C O O K I N G .
shallow poaching
A s ig n ific a n t am ount o f fla v o r is tra n s fe rre d fro m the fo o d to the cooking liquid. For m axi
mum flavo r, th e cooking liquid (cuisson) is usually reduced and used as th e base fo r a sauce.
The acids give th e sauce a b rig h t, balanced flavo r. B u tte r can be easily e m u lsifie d in the
sauce; beurre blanc is o fte n the sauce o f choice f o r shallow -poached foo ds.
As f o r steam ing, n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s o f a size and shape th a t allow fo r quick cook
ing w o rk best. Fish, s h e llfish , and chicken bre asts are am ong th e m o st com m on o p tio n s fo r
th is cooking m ethod. Trim th e main ite m as a p p ro p ria te . Remove bones o r skin fro m fis h
to make fille ts o r fro m p o u ltry to make suprem es or boneless, skinless b re a s t po rtion s.
Fish fille ts may be ro lle d o r fo ld e d around a s tu ffin g to fo rm p a u p ie tte s (see page 411),
w ith the bone side o f the fis h show ing on the e xte rio r. Remove sh e llfish fro m th e shell, if
desired.
The poaching liquid c o n trib u te s fla v o r to th e fo o d as w e ll as to th e sauce prepared
fro m it. Choose rich bro th s o r stocks and add wine, vinegar, o r c itru s ju ice as a p pro pria te .
Cut aro m atics fin e or m ince them . O th e r in g re d ie n ts to be served along w ith th e sauce
as a garnish should be cu t n e a tly in to s trip s , dice, julienne, or ch iffo n a d e . These in gre die nts
are o fte n sw eated or parcooked f ir s t to develop the b e st possible fla v o r as w ell as to make
ce rta in th a t all p a rts o f the fin is h e d dish are fu lly cooked a t the same tim e.
The sauce may be a beurre blanc or sauce vin blanc (page 298), or sim p ly th e reduced
cooking liquids. R e fe r to sp e c ific recipes fo r a d d itio n a l suggestions o r guidance.
Use a s a u to ir o r o th e r shallow cooking vessel, such as a h o te l pan, to shallow poach.
S e le ct the pan o r baking dish ca re fu lly; if th e re is to o much or to o little space le ft around
th e fo o d , it may over- or undercook, o r th e re may be to o much o r to o litt le liquid f o r the
sauce. B u tte re d o r oiled pa rchm e nt paper o r a lo o s e -fittin g lid is used to cover th e pan
loosely as th e fo o d cooks. It tra p s enough o f th e steam to cook the unexposed p a rt o f
th e fo o d , b u t n o t so much th a t the cooking speed rises. You may req uire a s tra in e r fo r the
sauce. You w ill also need u te n sils f o r handling th e poached fo o d , such as a s lo tte d spatula,
and heated plates fo r service.
540
shallow
Q basic formula
Shallow Poaching
1 oz/28 g butter
Salt and other seasonings for both

the food and the poaching liquid
V i oz/14 g shallots
1 portion (4 to 6 oz/113 to
170 g) boneless, skinless
fish or chicken breast
Additional finishing
1 fl oz/30 mL white wine and 1 fl
oz/30 mL white stock, according
to the portion being cooked
ingredients, including prepared

sauce and garnishes
'I
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Heat b u tte r in a sauteuse.
Smother the aromatics in the

pan and make a level bed.
ing liquids:
Add the main item and the

poaching liquid.
4. Bring the liquid to a simmer.
5. Cover the sautoir with
parchment paper.
choose well-seasoned poach
STOCK / BROTH / W IN E / SAUCES
A cuisson
can also be used in a way that does not require reduction but
as a broth-type liquid in which to serve the main item. This method is some
times refered to as "a la nage."
Depending on the desired result, thecookingliquidcan
6. Finish the food over direct

heat or in an oven.
be used to create a sauce to finish the poached item.
7. Remove the main item,
upy. It may be strained into a separate pot at this point, if desired. With the re
moisten it, and keep it

warm.
Reduce the cuisson and
prepare a sauce as desired.
9. Serve the main item
with the sauce and the

appropriate garnish.
poaching
(1 entree portion)
To make a beurre blanc:
Reduce the cooking liquid until it is syr
duced cooking liquid at a simmer, add pieces of cold butter a few at a time. Keep
the pan in motion as you add the butter, swirling it into the sauce as it melts.
To make a sauce vin blanc:
Reduce the cooking liquid and add
the desired aromatics and an appropriately flavored veloute. Strain the sauce
if necessary and finish with cream or a liaison and any additional garnishes.
For more inform ation
about preparing sauces for shallow-
poached items, refer to specific recipes.
Chapter 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
541
1. make sure
th e level o f the liquid goes no
higher than o n e -th ird to h a lfw a y up th e fo o d ; generally,

less is req uire d. If to o much liq u id is used, e ith e r a g re a t
deal o f tim e w ill be needed to reduce it p ro p e rly or only
p a rt o f it w ill be usable in th e sauce.
L ig h tly b u tte r a shallow pan and add a ro m a tics to give
th e cooking liquid and fin is h e d sauce a good flavo r. If the
a ro m a tics can cook co m p le te ly in the tim e required, they
can be added raw; o th e rw ise , cook the m sep ara te ly be
fo re h a n d by sw e a tin g lig h tly in th e b u tte r.
Season and place th e m ain ite m on to p o f the a ro m a t
ics, the n pour th e liq u id around th e item . It is n o t neces
sary in m o st cases to pre h e a t th e liquid, though fo r large
q u a n titie s , it may be h e lp fu l to do so. Be ca re fu l n o t to
bring it to a fu ll boil.
2. cover the paupiettes w ith b u tte re d

pa rchm e nt paper (cartouche) b e fo re p u ttin g the m in the
oven. It is b e st to fin is h poaching fo o d s in th e oven be
cause oven heat is m ore even and g e n tle than d ire c t heat.
It also fre e s b u rne r space f o r o th e r purposes.
B rin g th e liquid u p to poaching te m p e ra tu re (16 0
to 1 8 0 F /7 1 to 82C) over d ire c t heat, loosely covered
w ith pa rchm e nt paper, and fin is h in a m od era te oven.
On som e occasions, however, it is p re fe ra b le to p e rfo rm
th e e n tire cooking o p e ra tio n in th e oven. The q u a n tity o f
fo o d pre pa red and th e ava ila ble e q uipm en t w ill d ic ta te
w h a t is m o s t logical. Do n o t allow th e liquid to boil a t any
tim e . A rapid bo il w ill cook th e fo o d to o quickly, a ffe c tin g
th e q u a lity o f th e dish, and may cause all o f the liquid to
eva po rate fro m th e pan, p o ssib ly scorching th e pro te in .
542
M EATS, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
shallow
3. cook shallow-poached foods

u n til ju s t done. Fish and s h e llfis h should appear opaque
and fe e l s lig h tly firm ; th e fle s h o f o yste rs, clam s, and
m ussels should curl around th e edges. Chicken suprem es
poaching
should appear opaque and o ffe r s lig h t re sista n ce when

pressed w ith a fin g e rtip .
T ransfer th e p a u p ie tte s to a ho ld ing dish and m oisten
w ith a sm all am ount o f th e cooking liquid to keep them
fro m d rying o u t w h ile th e sauce is prepared. Cover the
fo o d tig h tly to hold in th e heat and pre ven t dehydration.
Add the a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts f o r th e sauce to th e coo k
ing liquid as d ire c te d in th e recipe. When w ell prepared,
shallow -poached dishes re fle c t th e fla v o r o f bo th the fo o d
and th e cooking liquid, and th e sauce adds a rich, com ple
m en ta ry flavo r. In general, fo o d s appear m oist, opaque,
and re la tiv e ly lig h t in color. Fish should n o t have d e p o sits
o f w h ite album in, w hich in dica tes th a t it has been over
cooked o r cooked to o quickly. P ro p e rly cooked shallow poached fo o d s are very te n d e r and e x c e p tio n a lly m oist.
And because th is tech niq ue is m o st o fte n used w ith d e li
cate foo ds, th e y have an a lm o st fra g ile te x tu re . If th e y are
fa llin g a p a rt o r dry, however, the y have been overcooked.
4. simmer the cooking liquid

(cuisson) over d ire c t heat to c o n c e n tra te th e fla v o r and
th icke n th e liquid. A p re pa red fis h ve lo u te has been added
to th e reduced cuisson here. O th e r o p tio n s include re
duced cream, veg e ta b le purees, o r b u tte r.
543
D e e p p o a c h in g
a nd
s im m e r in g
call
for
fo o d
to
be
c o m p le te ly
s u b m e r g ed
in
l i q .u i d
at
C O N S T A N T , M O D E R A T E T E M P E R A T U R E . T h e A I M O F D E E P P O A C H I N G A N D S I M M E R I N G I S T H E S A M E TO
PRODUCE FO OD S TH AT ARE M O IS T A N D E X T R E M E L Y T E NDE R. T h e D IS T IN G U IS H IN G FACTORS BETW EEN
T H E T W O M E T H O D S A R E D I F F E R E N C E S IN C O O K IN G T E M P E R A T U R E A N D A P P R O P R IA T E T Y P E S O F F O O D .
D e e p p o a c h in g
is
d o n e
at
lo w er
t e m p e r a tu r e
a nd
is
b etter
s u it e d
to
n a tu r a lly
ten d er
CUTS OF MEAT, PO ULTRY, OR FISH .
deep poaching and

simmering
S im m ering occurs at s lig h tly higher te m p e ra tu re , so th a t th e to u g h e r cuts can becom e te n
der and m o ist during cooking. Item s to be deep poached should be n a tu ra lly ten der; those
to be sim m ered need not be since the sim m e ring process w ill te n d e rize them . Though
p o rtio n -s iz e cuts are o fte n used chicken qu arters, fo r exam ple poached and sim m ered
ite m s also include dressed fish, w hole birds, or large pieces o f meat.
W rap dressed fis h in cheesecloth to p ro te c t it fro m breaking a p a rt during cooking.
S tu ff the p o u ltry, if desired, and tru s s it to help re ta in its shape. S tu ff m eats, i f desired,
and tie them to m aintain th e ir shape.
The liquid used in deep poaching and sim m e ring should be w ell fla vo re d . For m eat and
p o u ltry, se le ct a w ell-d eve lop ed sto ck o f th e a p p ro p ria te flavo r. For fis h and she llfish , use
fis h stock, fu m e t, wine, or a c o u rt bouillon. A ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as herbs and spices,
wine, vegetables, veg etab le juices, or c itru s ze st may be added to th e cooking liquid to
enhance th e fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d dish. The arom atics, seasonings, and fla vo rin g s should
e ith e r b o ls te r or com p le m e nt th e fla v o r o f the fo o d in a balanced way. See sp e c ific recipes
f o r in s tru c tio n s on p re pa ring and adding these ingredients.
Deep-poached and sim m ered fo o d s are o fte n served w ith a sauce th a t is prepared
separately. "B o ile d" beef, fo r instance, is tra d itio n a lly served w ith a horseradish sauce, and
poached salmon is o fte n served w ith a w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauce, such as bearnaise or
m ousseline. See sp e c ific recipes fo r sauce suggestions.
The p o t used fo r deep poaching or sim m ering should hold the food, liquid, and arom atics
co m fo rta b ly, w ith enough room to allow the liquid to expand as it heats. There should also be
enough space so th a t the surface can be skim m ed if necessary th ro u g h o u t cooking. A tig h tf it tin g lid may be helpful fo r bringing the liquid up to tem pe rature . Leaving a lid on throu gh
out the cooking process may actually cause the liquid to become h o tte r than desired.
O th er h e lp fu l eq uipm en t includes ladles or skim m ers, holding con tain ers to keep the
fo o d warm , carving boards, and slicers. An in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r is h e lp fu l to m o n ito r
th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e cooking liquid; it can be d iffic u lt to see th e d iffe re n c e betw een a
liquid a t a p e rfe c t poaching te m p e ra tu re and one th a t is a degree o r tw o away fro m a slow
boil. The d iffe re n c e to th e fo o d can be q u ite im p o rta n t.
544
basic formula
Deep Poaching
(1 entree portion)
One portion (6 oz/170 g)
About 10 fl oz/300 mL court

bouillon, stock, or other liquid
Salt and other seasonings for

both the food and the liquid
Assorted vegetables
Additional ingredients, including
fish, chicken, or meat
prepared sauce and garnishes
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Bring the cooking liquid to

a simmer.
2. Add the main item, using
a rack if necessary. Make

sure the item is fully
submerged.
ing liquids:
STOCK /B R O T H /W I N E
3. Cover the food if directed
by the recipe.
deep poaching and sim m ering
Adding them directly to the poaching liquid will infuse flavor throughout the
4. Finish the food over direct
cooking process.
heat or in an oven.
M IR E P O IX / VEG E TA B LE S / FRESH HERBS
5. Remove the main item,
moisten it, and keep it

warm while preparing a
sauce, or cool it in liquid, as
appropriate.
The poaching liquid
can be strained depending on the desired
result.
545
1. lower the food into fumetthat

has been b ro u g h t to the a p p ro p ria te poaching te m p e ra
tu re (1 6 0 to 1 8 5 F /7 1 to 85C). Be sure th a t the pan
is n o t overcrow d ed o r th e fo o d w ill cook unevenly. Some
fo o d s are s ta rte d o f f in cool liquid.
Poaching liquid should be a t 16 0 to 1 8 5 F /7 1 to
85C. The surface o f th e liquid may show some m otion,
som e tim es called shivering, b u t no a ir bubbles should
break th e surface. S im m e ring liquid w ill have sm all bub
bles g e n tly b re aking th e surface and should be betw een
1 8 5 and 2 0 0 F /8 5 and 93C. The poaching liquid can be
stra in e d de pe nd ing on th e desired resu lt.
method in detail
2. submerge the food completely
in th e liquid. If a p a rt o f th e fo o d is above th e level o f
th e coo kin g liquid, th e coo kin g w ill be uneven and th e f in
ished p ro d u c t w ill n o t have th e p ro p e r d e lica te color. The
fo o d may also look raw w here th e liquid did n o t cover it
co m p le te ly.
M a in ta in th e p ro p e r coo kin g speed th ro u g h o u t the
poaching o r sim m e rin g process u n til th e fo o d is done.
S kim as necessary and ad ju st seasoning th ro u g h o u t the
co o kin g tim e .
If a cover is used, m o n ito r th e cooking te m p e ra tu re
reg ularly. Covering a p o t cre a te s pressure, w hich raises
the te m p e ra tu re o f th e liquid. S e ttin g th e lid s lig h tly ajar
is a good p re ca u tio n to be ce rta in th a t th e liquid does not
in a d v e rte n tly com e to a boil.
546
poached o r sim m e red ite m is to be served cold, it may be

desira ble to s lig h tly un de rcook it. Remove th e p o t fro m
th e heat and le t th e fo o d cool in th e poaching liquid, which
w ill re ta in enough heat to co m p le te th e cooking process.
Cool th e liq u id in an ice w a te r bath to p re ve n t b a c te ria l
g ro w th . Once it has reached room te m p e ra tu re , rem ove
th e fo o d f o r any fu rth e r p re p a ra tio n . The liquid may be
used to poach o r sim m e r o th e r item s.
P ro p e rly deep-poached o r sim m ered p o u ltry and
m eats are fo rk ten der, and any ju ice s fro m p o u ltry are
nearly colorle ss. P o u ltry fle s h ta ke s on an evenly opaque
appearance and o ffe rs litt le re sista n ce when pressed
w ith a fin g e rtip . W hen w hole birds are fu lly cooked, the
legs move ea sily in th e sockets.
When p ro p e rly cooked, th e fle s h o f f is h and sh e llfis h
is s lig h tly firm and has lo s t its transluce ncy, ta k in g on a
ne arly opaque appearance. S h e llfish open and th e edges
o f th e fle s h curl. Shrim p, crab, and lo b s te r have a b rig h t
pink or red color.
deep poaching and simm ering
3. poach the food u n til p ro p e rly done. Tests

fo r doneness va ry fro m one fo o d ty p e to another. If a
547
sous vide
Though its beginnings are a lm o st 40 years old, the
The vacuum th a t sous vide p ro d u cts are sub je cte d
p o p u la rity and w idesp rea d use o f sous vide has grow n
to rem oves any re sista n ce th e p ro d u cts have to co u n te r
en orm o usly in re ce n t years in th is c o u n try and abroad.
th e fo rc e s fro m th e a ir around them . This, in e ffe c t, cre
The French te rm m e a ning"und er vacuum " has m orphed
ates a pressure on th e e x te rio r o f th e bag and p ro d u ct
in to som e th in g th a t encom passes a m odern con cep t and
th a t n o t only fo rm s th e p ro d u c t in to an a ttra c tiv e shape
approach to cooking. It can be sum m arized as the a p p li
b u t encourages it to absorb any a ro m a tics th a t may
catio n o f h e a t t o a f o o d p r o d u c t t h a t is v acuum -seale d
be included along w ith it in th e a irtig h t area. This same
in a v ir t u a lly -im p e rv io u s -to -a ir p la s t ic ba g and cooked
vacuum also low ers th e b o ilin g p o in t o f w a te r th a t is
f o r a r e la tiv e ly long p e r io d o f tim e a t a pre cis e low t e m
p re s e n t in th e p ro du ct's cells, w hich w ill cause i t to boil
perature. This c o m b in a tio n o f fa c to rs allow s th e ch e f to
and ru p tu re th e cells i f th e p ro d u c t is to o w arm when
achieve rem a rkab le re su lts th a t can be rep rod uced e f
processed. For th is reason, p ro d u cts pre pa red f o r sous
fic ie n tly a t a high level o f p re cisio n and accuracy.
vide m ust be k e p t v e ry cold p rio r to packaging.
BASIC FOOD SCIENCE OF SOUS VIDE

COOKING
tem p e ra tu re s to sous vide applications can also be ap
The heating hardw are th a t norm ally delivers precise
plied to non-sous vide item s, w ith the in te ntio n o f p ro vid

ing th a t same precision and stable heat source fo r lo w -
L o w -te m p e ra tu re cooking has long been e sta b lish e d as

th e p re fe rre d m ethod f o r to u g h cuts o f m eat w ith large
am ounts o f c onnective tissue . W ith p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re ,
ap plied in a m o is t-h e a t en viro nm en t, all th e fib ro u s t is
sue w ill slo w ly d issolve in to g e la tin and c o n trib u te to a
tem p e ra tu re cooking to products th a t are not in bags. An

excellent example o f th is approach is the technique o f
cooking eggs in th e shell w ith a the rm a l circulator, wherein
the coagulation tem pe rature s o f the eggs d iffe re n t pro
tein s can be ta rg e te d and atta in e d to one's liking.
m o ist fin a l pro du ct. This w ould n o rm ally e n ta il cooking

th e p ro d u c t f o r a long perio d o f tim e and su b je ctin g it
to th e degrading e ffe c ts o f o x id a tio n as w e ll as unsafe
m ic ro b io lo g ic a l co n d itio n s. So, ty p ic a lly , th e tra d itio n a l
The basic goal o f any ty p e o f c oo kin g th a t one may em
te m p e ra tu re s em ployed render the p ro d u c t safe but
ploy, tra d itio n a l or sous vide, is to m axim ize the org an o
also d e na tu re th e m uscle fib e rs , causing th e m to in itia lly
le p tic q u a litie s (color, ju icin ess, tenderness, flavo r, etc.)
toughen and release all th e ir w a te r, and th e re b y p ro d u c
o f th e fin is h e d pro du ct, w h ile g u ara ntee ing its s a fe ty
ing a d ry and fla v o rle s s overcooked p ro d u c t w ith a poor
and s h e lf life . Though tra d itio n a l and sous vide coo k
n u tritio n a l p ro file .
ing m etho ds have many th in g s in common, and s im ila r
But by p re cise ly c o n tro llin g th e te m p e ra tu re in
re s u lts are achievable w ith e ith e r m ethod, sous vide
the sous vide process, th e tou gh con ne ctive tissu e can
pro vid es o p p o rtu n itie s to th e ch e f to in co rp o ra te the
be tra n s fo rm e d , over tim e , in to silky g e la tin w h ile the
be st o f bo th the o rg a n o le p tic q u a litie s and s a fe ty and
m uscle fib e rs are n o t d e na tu red and all th e ir in he rent
s h e lf life in one approach. And even though it should not
ju ices are retaine d. The e n viro n m e n t w ith in th e bag also
be considered a p re s e rv a tio n tech niq ue per se, p ro p e rly
e lim in a te s o x id a tio n and p re ven ts any in h e re n t m o istu re
cooked sous vide fo o d s do have an increased sh e lf life.
in th e p ro d u c t fro m evaporating.
This ty p e o f te m p e ra tu re c o n tro l can be applied to
red m eats th a t re q u ire va ryin g degrees o f doneness
as w ell. C e rta in p ro te in -te n d e riz in g enzym es, n a tu ra lly
fo u n d in th e tissue , are a c tiv a te d a t th e low sous vide
te m p e ra tu re s and c o n trib u te s u b s ta n tia lly to producing
a m ore te n d e r p ro d u c t even if cooked rare.
Some o f th e b e n e fits are as fo llo w s:

JUICINESS: due to the retention of inherent mois
ture and reabsorption of cooking juices (exudates)
and the complete gelation of connective tissue in
meats.
INCREASED YIELD: due to reduced shrinkage from
The gentle cooking cycle, coupled w ith an equally
no evaporation or moisture loss, as well as reduced
gentle cooling phase and pressure created by the vacuum,
fa t loss fo r low -fat m elt-point items like foie gras.
ensures th a t any juices, called exudates, are ste a d ily reab

sorbed in to the product, thus increasing its juiciness.
548
KEY PROCESSES AND BENEFITS OF USE
CONSISTENCY: o f color and tex tu re throughout the
m uscular connective tissu e and its con dition. As w ith
product no "averaging"; this indicates there is no
any a p p lica tio n o f heat to pro te in , th e re is an im m ediate
range of doneness throughout the product: all is of
re tra c tio n o f m uscle fib e rs th a t re su lts in a hardening o f
one doneness. A t this point it is up to the individual
th a t p ro te in and eventual w a te r loss if the te m p e ra tu re
if they w ant to sear the product to add M aillard
becom es extrem e . In o rd e r to cou nter these e ffe c ts , it is
browning.
ENHANCED FLAVOR AND NUTRITION: achieved by
having the liquid cooking medium not come in direct
contact with the food, thereby assuring that no flavor
or nutrients are lost to the cooking liquid; aromatics
and marinades are more pronounced and effective;
freshness is retained and no oxidation occurs.
necessary, eventually, to render the tissu e m ore soluble

by th e process o f hydrolysis, or breaking down o f the
tissu e by re a ctin g w ith w ater. And as anyone who has
cooked a braised piece o f m eat knows, th is takes tim e.
The c o n ce p t o f Sous Vide versus T ra d itio n a l cooking
can be reduced to tw o sim p le te rm s: C o nce ntration and
D ilu tio n .
D ry-h e a t and m o is t-h e a t tra d itio n a l cooking have
UN IFO RM SHAPE: especially when bags with
b e n e fits , b u t th e y com e a t a price. The intense searing
shrinkable properties are used, or gentle pressure
o f p ro te in in o rd e r to develop a pleasing "cru st" w ith
fo r delicate items.
accom panying M a illa rd fla v o r p ro file does so at the
TEXTURE MODIFICATION: delicately textured

foods can also be compressed or altered fo r pleas
ing e ffe cts and fla v o r/te x tu re shifts.
expense o f m o is tu re and w ith re q u is ite shrinkage and

reduced yie ld. Even th e g e n tle s t a p p lica tio n o f heat
in a m o is t-h e a t tr a d itio n a l coo kin g approach ten ds to
ove rcoo k th e e x te rio r o f m o st fo o d s tu ffs over tim e
SAFETY: in-package pasteurization avoids recon
by d ra w in g o u t all th e m o istu re w h ile oxid izin g it. Even
tam ination, equating to a microbiologically safe
g e n tle sim m e rin g draw s o u t th e in h e re n t m o istu re o f a
product w ith extended shelf life.
p ro d u ct, as w ell as ce rta in v ita l fla v o r com ponents and
GREEN MERITS: reduced energy use as well as

savings in labor, equipment, cleanup, and chem ical/
biological waste. Processing and storage space is
minimized; service to customer is sim plified, e f
ficien t, and precise/accurate.
A braised piece o f m eat w ill ta ke several hours to
n u tritio n a l vatue. This is d ilu tio n . And though stea m ing is

a h e a lth y technique, even it is to o extre m e a heat source
f o r c e rta in d e lic a te ite m s like seafood.
In technical term s, the d iffe re n ce between the applied
cooking te m p e ra tu re and the finished core tem pe rature
o f a pro d u ct is known as delta T or sim ply AT. The larger
th is num ber is, the m ore energy m om entum the product
becom e a cce p ta b ly tender, and a ro a ste d ite m w ill also
has, which relates to the am ount o f carryover cooking th a t
req uire its p ro p e r am ount o f tim e in o rd e r to achieve the
is probable once energy is applied, the m olecules are ex
c o rre c t core te m p e ra tu re . The ro a ste d piece w ill yie ld a
cited, and the in te rio r o f the pro d u ct begins to accumulate
rosy c e n te r w ith a som e w h at w e ll-d o n e and dry e xte rio r.
heat. Since the size o f the w indow fo r e rro r is reduced due
The braise w ill re s u lt in an oxidize d gray p ro d u c t void o f
to th e use o f high tem pe rature s, the slig h te st abuse in this
liquid and w ith dim inishe d n u tritio n a l value th a t req uire s
regard w ill re su lt in a dry a n d /o r tough product. The re
its b ra isin g ju ice s to p ro vid e th e re q u is ite fla v o r f o r a
verse then is also true, and accounts fo r the accuracy th a t
s a tis fy in g dish.
can be achieved w ith a low te m p e ra tu re and small AT ap
But w h at if the f ir s t aspect o f th is cooking could be
proach. The la tte r m ethod allows the chef a w ider margin
achieved w ith o u t the second ta kin g place? This is possible
o f e rro r th a t m ight prevent any overshoot in tem pe rature
w ith sous vide. It allows you to cook an en tire piece o f p ro
and overcooking o f the product.
tein w ith con sisten t and un iform color and te xtu re , while
retaining all o f its juiciness, enhanced flavor, and n u tritio n .
The "averaged co lo r o f m ost cooked m eat is o b v i
By em ploying a v irtu a lly im p erm ea ble-to-air plastic

pouch, sous vide cooking tra p s all o f the essential flavo rs
and even concentrates them to a certain point. The very
ously de pendent on th e te m p e ra tu re it is sub je cte d to
low cooking tem pe rature s, coupled w ith the vacuum bag,
and re su lts desired. Its tenderness, on th e o th e r hand,
produce te n d e r fo o d s tu ffs th a t are juicy, evenly cooked
is a b it m ore com plex o f an issue. This in he rent q u a lity
through, w ith high yield and a ttra c tiv e color and shape
in m eat is d ire c tly re la te d to th e species and m a tu rity
(and even rosy braises if desired). The "crusting" th a t is
o f the animal, which in tu rn is linked to th e am ount o f
highly appreciated on the surface o f proteins subjected
c h a p te r 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
PROCEDURES
It is important to deliver consistent heat to all
necessary to cook the product to the desired done
parts of the product for reasons of even cooking
ness, and to pasteurize and render it safe for stor
and pasteurization. Therefore, since water is up
age and later reheating and service.
to a hundred times more efficient in transferring
After the cooking is completed, the bag is
heat energy than air is, the water bath is a preferred
submerged in an ice and water bath (at least 50
cooking medium. A precise and accurate heat
percent ice) until a 37-4F/ 3C core temperature is
source is required as well, so most chefs employ
reached within two hours. This temperature must
a thermal circulator, monitored with a digital ther
be achieved or the product should be discarded.
mometer fitted with needle probe, for delivering the
The bag is then labeled with product, date, time,
best performance.
and discard date. It is stored in a 3740F/3C or low
Raw or marked (seared/grilled) product that
er refrigerator (or frozen) with electronic logging
is thoroughly chilled to 42.8F/6C or less is intro
capabilities for a prescribed amount of time (see
duced to a laminated and extruded plastic bag. It is
your local HACCP Food Code); at which point it
lined up, and adjusted with spacer blocks, to cen
must be served or discarded. When reheating for
ter the bag edge with the sealing bar of the cham-
service, the bag is dropped into an appropriately
ber-type vacuum machine. The machine is then pro
heated water bath until the core temperature is
grammed for the amount of vacuum desired (type
achieved, and then opened and promptly served.
of product, shape, etc.), any post evacuation time

required (if product is porous), and the amount of
During the entire process from start to finish,

scrupulous log-keeping must be employed regard
sealing time, which depends on the thickness and
ing the cooking, chilling, storage, and reheating
characteristics of the plastic used.
temperatures and times, as well as discard dates,
The sealed bag is briefly chilled and then

placed in the appropriate-temperature bath
and kept on record for a minimum amount of time

(see local HACCP Food Code).
and kept there for the requisite amount of time
The equipment necessary fo r immersion cooking. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: vacuum sealer,
immersion thermocirculator, digital thermometer, needle probe, vacuum bags
550
sous vide
Do not overcrowd the vacuum

bag. Food items inside the bag
should never be touching.
Be sure to place the vacuum bag

onto the vacuum sealer carefully
with enough of the bag over
hanging the edge of the sealer
to create a clean seal.
When the thermocirculator is set in the water bath, it is

absolutely essential fo r the level of the water surrounding the
vacuum bag to be kept above the level of the return pipe at all
times. If the water level falls below the return pipe, the machine
could possibly be damaged.
A properly sealed vacuum bag.
To prevent air and moisture

from escaping the sealed bag,
apply a piece of closed cell foam
tape to the area where you will
insert the thermometer probe.
Gently insert the thermometer
probe through the tape and into
the piece of meat.
Submerge the bag in an ice bath composed of at least 50% ice.
The texture of a meat is determined by the structure of its muscle

fibers and the connective tissues that harness the individual mus
cle fibers into bundles. A t left, muscle fibers encased by sheets of
connective tissue. At right, a cross-section of fiber bundles.
551
to dry-h ea t cooking m ethods can be applied quickly eith er
tim e /te m p e ra tu re ta b le s th a t th e FDA publishes in its
be fore or a fte r the the rm a l processing o f the product. In
Food Code as gu id eline s th a t m ust be fo llo w e d in ord e r
th is manner the fo o d be n e fits fro m the tenderness and
to re n de r cooked and raw fo o d safe fo r con sum p tion to
juiciness o f g e n tly applied heat, as w e ll as th e ro b u st
th e pu blic (FDA.gov). HACCP is a ris k assessm ent th a t
fla v o rs achieved fro m M a illa rd re a ctio n com pounds.
is im p o rta n t to th e consumer, chef, and th e pro du ct. It
O bviously, only p ris tin e and a b s o lu te ly fre s h p ro d
is th is "ris k " th a t is a t th e h e a rt o f sous vide s a fe ty and
ucts should be u tiliz e d fo r sous vide tre a tm e n t, since
req uire s a c e rta in am ount o f know ledge and tra in in g on
th e process n o t only m a g n ifie s and co n ce n tra te s th e in
th e p a rt o f the ch e f em p lo ying it.
he ren t fla v o rs , b u t any undesirable ones as w ell. It is fo r
The sous vide en viro n m e n t (w ith in the bag) creates
th is "co n ce n tra tio n " reason th a t th e a d d itio n o f calcu
a zone th a t p re ven ts o x id a tio n and in h ib its th e g ro w th
la te d dosages o f seasonings and a ro m a tics be ju d icio u s
o f e x is tin g spoilage and pa thog en ic aerobic ba cte ria by
and tig h tly c o n tro lle d . Raw g a rlic and u n re fin e d oils
d e p riv in g bo th o f oxygen. A t th e same tim e it is a place
som e tim es te n d to produce ve ry pronounced and stro n g
conducive to anaerobic spoilage and pathogenic bac
o f f fla v o rs due to th e ir breakdow n du rin g long cooking
te ria , e sp ecially i f th e p ro d u c t is te m p e ra tu re abused.
tim e s .1The na ture o f veg etab le s also poses a problem
Though m any o f th e se organism s could be co n tro lle d
when th e y are cooked a n d /o r used as a ro m atics, since
w ith adequate ph and sa lt, sous vide processing does so
th e ir sta rch and cellulose -bou nd p e ctin is soluble a t a
m ainly w ith th e c o n tro ls o f te m p e ra tu re and tim e .3
te m p e ra tu re w e ll above th o se used fo r coo kin g p ro te in s.
It is im p e ra tiv e then th a t fo o d s tu ffs o f im peccable
So, i f used as aro m atics, th e y m ust be a lte re d b e fo re
q u a lity be used fo r sous vide processing, since th e risk
th e y are in tro d u ce d to the package.
fo r surface c o n ta m in a tio n is g re a tly reduced. If s u f f i
O riginally, fo o d s packaged and cooked in a ir-fre e or
cie n t heat tre a tm e n t is supplied to pa ste u rize th e p ro d
m o d ifie d -a ir packages were done so a t high te m p e ra
u ct du rin g processing, the n all ve g e ta tiv e (active) fo rm s
tu re s in ord er to ensure m icrobiological safe ty, b u t w ith
o f p a thog en ic and spoilage b a cte ria w ill be de stro yed
dim inished resu lts in color, flavor, and te xtu re . The m od
or s ig n ific a n tly in a c tiv a te d . The only real th re a ts to
ern m ethod, re fe rre d to as "rig h t-te m p e ra tu re cooking"2
th e process are th e ce rta in s p o re -fo rm in g ba cte ria like
utilizes low tem pe rature s coupled w ith extended cooking
C lo s trid iu m p e rfrin g e n s and Botulinum, whose spores
tim es th a t are calculated to produce the m ost desirable
are, to a large degree, heat re s is ta n t. But th e ir g ro w th
sensory results while being pasteurized and m icro bio lo gi-
can be sa fe ly c o n tro lle d if th e p ro d u c t is sto re d a t less
cally safe. In th is regard, sous vide is as much a cooking
than 3 7 .4 F /3 C , fo r no m ore than a sp e cifie d perio d o f
technique as it is a process th a t increases stable s h e lf life.
tim e , a fte r processing.
The basic Sous V ide coo kin g p rocesses can be
For the se reasons, then, it is im p o rta n t to un
sep ara te d in to CCRS (cook, chill, reheat, serve) co o k
d e rsta n d th a t sous vide is n o t in te nd ed as a storage
ing: re fe rrin g to where the p ro d u c t is m arked (g rille d
system , nor should it be con sid ered solely as a means
or seared; o p tion al), bagged, th e rm a lly processed (to
o f in d e fin ite ly e xte n d in g th e s h e lf life o f packaged
cook and p a steurize the pro du ct), chille d o r frozen , and
fo o d s tu ffs . Each unique p ro d u c t w ith its own p ro ce ss
then reh ea te d (m arked; again, o p tio n a l) f o r im m e d ia te
ing p a ra m e te rs (tim e and te m p e ra tu re ) w ill have c o rre
service; and CS (cook, serve) cooking: w here a p o rtio n e d
sponding s h e lf life and sto ra g e p a ram e te rs (again, tim e
p ro d u c t is bagged, cooked to o rd e r and served im m e
and te m p e ra tu re ) th a t m ust be resp ected and s tr ic tly
dia te ly. The la tte r is a p re fe rre d m ethod nowadays fo r
adhered to. O th erw ise, th e sous vide process becom es a
many chefs when cooking seafood.
p o te n tia lly dangerous coo kin g and storag e m ethod. For

th is reason alone, sous vide is no b e tte r or w orse than
SAFETY
As anyone tra in e d in fo o d s e rv ic e s a fe ty knows, ba cte ria
are never c o m p le te ly e lim in ated , b u t m ust be ke p t a t an
"a ccep ta ble level.
Through e xp e rim e n ta tio n , fo o d s c ie n tis ts have
analyzed the g ro w th and death ra te s o f all fo rm s o f
ba cte ria sub je cte d to a v a rie ty o f c o n d itio n s over tim e.
The re su lts o f th is e x p e rim e n ta tio n are expressed in the
any tra d itio n a l coo kin g m ethod, but, if the p ro p e r co n d i

tio n s are m et, it is a s a fe r storag e m ethod since th e re is
no ris k f o r re co n ta m in a tio n .
1J.M. Farber and K.L. Dodds, eds.. P rincip le s o fM o d ifie d -A tm o s p h e re
a nd Sous Vide P ro d u c t Packaging, pages 5,94,106, 111, 119,153,
199,243, and 253 (Lancaster, PA: Techomic, 1995).
2Ibid.
3Ibid.
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g sea bass fillets, cut into
ten lV 2-o z/4 3-g portions
Poached Sea Bass

with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, cold
2 o z/5 7 g butter
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg sea bass fillets, cut

into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry vermouth
2 lb /9 0 7 g celeriac, cut into julienne
1 lb /4 5 4 g Red Bliss potatoes, thinly sliced
10'/2 o z/3 1 5 g carrot, cut into julienne
IO V 2 o z/3 1 5 g cucumber, cut into julienne
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Gremolata (page 601)
1 ts p /2 g crushed black peppercorns
50 littleneck clams, thoroughly scrubbed

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clam juice
Salt, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g green pepper, cut into julienne, blanched
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced bacon, rendered crisp and drained
1 . Cut 10 heart shapes out of parchment paper, large
1 tb s p /3 g minced chives
enough to enclose the fish, scallops, and vegetables.

Lightly butter both sides of the paper.
2 . Combine the stock and vermouth in a large sauce

pan and bring to a simmer (i85F/85C). Separately
blanch the celeriac, potatoes, and carrots in the
1 . Lightly butter a shallow pan with 1 oz/28 g of the

butter. Add the fish (skin side down), clams, wine,
stock, and clam juice.
2 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (160 to
stock mixture until tender. Drain the vegetables and
i8oF/7i to 82C) over direct heat. Place a piece
toss with the cucumber.
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
3 . Arrange a bed of about 7 oz/198 g of the vegetables

on one half of each paper heart. Top the vegetables
with 1 portion of the bass and 1V2 oz/43 g of the scal
lops. Top with about 1 tbsp/15 mL of the gremolata
and sprinkle with the peppercorns.
4 . Fold the other half of the heart over the fish and veg
etables. Crimp the edges of the paper to seal tightly.
Refrigerate until needed.
5 . For each serving, place 1 parchment package on a
fish and clams to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a

35oF/i77C oven.
3 . Poach until the fish is slightly underdone and the

clams are barely open, 10 to 12 minutes.
4 . Transfer the fish and clams to a half hotel pan, add

a small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic
wrap, and hold warm.
5 . Place the pan with the cuisson over medium-high

heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-thirds.
preheated sizzler platter or sheet pan and bake in a
Whisk in the remaining butter to lightly thicken the
425cF/2i8C oven for 7 minutes. The package should
sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
be puffy and the paper brown. Serve immediately.
steaming and submersion recipes
Bass and Scallops en

Papillote
6 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a
For a dramatic presentation, cut the package open in
clean saucepan or bain-marie. Finish the sauce with
front of the diner.
the peppers and bacon.
7 . Serve the fish and clams immediately with the sauce,

garnished with the chives, or hold hot for service.
C hapter 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO O KING
553
Makes 10 servings
/. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a

clean saucepan or bain-marie, if desired. Finish the
sauce with half each of the tomatoes and chives.
8 . Blot the paupiettes dry on paper towels. Serve imme
diately with the sauce on a bed of sauteed baby spin
Twenty 3 to 4 -o z /8 5 to 1 1 3 -g skinless trout fillets

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt, plus more as needed
ach or hold hot for service, no more than 10 minutes.
9 . Repeat steps 2 through 8 for the second batch.
3A tsp /1.50 g ground white pepper, plus more as needed

NOTE: Adding lemon juice when finishing a sauce w ill add a
10 o z/2 8 4 g Trout and Saffron
Mousseline (recipe follows)
1 o z/2 8 g butter
3 medium shallots, minced
nice layer o f complexity to the dish.

Poached Sole w ith S a ffro n Mousse: S ubstitute an equal
amount o f sole fille t fo r the trout.

10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
Trout and Saffron Mousseline
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
Makes 10 oz/284 g

2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives
10 o z /2 8 4 g sauteed baby spinach
1 . Season the trout with the salt and pepper. Spread Vi
2 pinches saffron threads, pulverized

1 lb /4 5 4 g trout fille t trim
1 ts p /3 g salt, plus more as needed
oz/14 g of the mousseline in an even layer over the
1 egg white
skin side of the fillets and roll each piece up to make
Pinch freshly ground white pepper
Poached Trout with

Saffron Mousse
a paupiette, skin side in. Place in a hotel pan, seam

side down, and refrigerate until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a i2-in/30-cm sautoir and sprinkle the

bottom evenly with half of the shallots. Place half
1 . Combine the saffron and cream in a medium sauce

pan and heat to a simmer. Remove from the heat and
let steep for 30 minutes. Chill well.
of the paupiettes, seam side down, on top. Add half
2 . Place the trout trim and salt in a food processor. Pro
of the wine and half of the fumet to reach no more
cess to a fine paste, scraping down the sides of the
than halfway up the paupiettes.
bowl as needed. Pulse in the egg white until incorpo
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (160 to

i8oF/7i to 82C) over medium heat. Place a piece
rated. Add the saffron-infused cream, salt, and pep

per, pulsing the processor on and off until blended.
3 . Test the mousseline by poaching a small amount in
paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300
simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces
to 325F/i49 to i63C oven.
sary before proceeding.
4 . Poach the paupiettes until the trout is opaque and

gives under slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes.
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a half hotel pan, add a
4 . Push through a fine-mesh sieve, if desired.

5 . The mousseline is ready to use now, or may be refrig
small amount of cuisson, cover with plastic wrap,

and hold warm.
6 . Place the pan with the cuisson over medium-high
heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-thirds.
Reduce the heat to medium, add half of the veloute,
NOTE: Garnish w ith 1 tb s p /3 g chopped chives, or other

herbs th a t can be folded in a fte r blending.
Sole M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount o f sole fo r
the tro u t. Omit the saffron.
and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. The sauce should be

reduced to a nappe consistency. Adjust seasoning
with salt and white pepper.
Salm on M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount o f salmon

fo r the trout. Omit the saffron.
555
Poached Trout
Paupiettes with Vin
Blanc Sauce
1 . Season the trout with the salt and pepper. Spread the
mousseline in an even layer over the trout fillets and
roll each piece up to make a paupiette. Place them
in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate until
ready to poach.
2.. Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle evenly
Makes 10 servings
with the shallots. Place the parsley stems, chive

Twenty 3 to 4 -o z /8 5 to 1 1 3 -g skinless trout fillets
stems, and peppercorns on top. Place the paupiettes,
1 ts p /3 g salt
seam side down, on the bed of shallots. Add the wine
and fumet.
1 lb /4 5 4 g Salmon Mousseline (page 555)
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o to

1 o z/2 8 g butter
5 parsley stems
4 . Poach until the trout flesh is opaque and gives under
5 chive stems
]A ts p /0.50 g coarsely cracked white peppercorns
slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes.
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a half hotel pan, add a
small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic

10 fl o z/3 00 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)

6 . Place the pan with the remaining cuisson over medi
um-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed (optional)
thirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add the veloute,

and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and
reduce to a nappe consistency. Add lemon juice, if de
sired, and adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper.

clean saucepan or bain-marie large enough to hold
the finished sauce.
8 . Blot the paupiettes dry on paper towels. Serve im
mediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
le ft:
A fte r the fille ts are gently flattened between plastic
wrap to ensure even cooking, pipe a cold fillin g down the

length of each fille t. Spread the fillin g evenly over the entire
surface fo r paupiettes. Fillings are optional, but if used, they
should be kept very cold until cooked,
rig h t:
Fillings need to
be completely encased to ensure they w ill be fully retained

during cooking and not leak out. The fish is rolled completely
around the filling before the paupiettes are transferred to a
holding container fo r later use.
Makes 10 servings
Royal Glagage
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL poaching liquid, if
available, or Fish Fumet (page 264)
Ten 5 to 6 -o z /1 4 2 to 1 7 0 -g flounder fillets
1 ts p /3 g salt
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298)
'/ 2
tsp /1 g ground white pepper
10 o z/2 8 4 g Sole Mousseline (page 555)

1 o z/2 8 g butter
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallots
8 parsley stems, chopped
1 . Reduce the poaching liquid by two-thirds. Strain

into a bowl.
2 . Have the veloute and hollandaise at the same tem

perature (about 170F/77C). Add them to the re
duced cuisson and fold together.
3 . Whip the cream to medium peaks.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Royal Glagage (recipe follows)
4 . Fold the whipped cream gently into the veloute-
10 o z /2 8 4 g green seedless grapes, peeled

and heated (about 4 per serving)
hollandaise mixture until combined. Keep warm and

use as needed.
1 . Season the sole with the salt and pepper. Spread the
mousseline in an even layer over the skin side of
the fillets and roll each piece up to make paupiettes.
Place them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and re
Poached Sole
Paupiettes Veronique
frigerate until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle it evenly

with the shallots. Place the parsley on top of the
shallots. Place the paupiettes, seam side down, on
the bed of shallots. Add the wine and fumet.

4 . Poach until the sole is opaque and gives under slight

pressure, 10 to 12 minutes. (Reserve the cuisson for
the glaâge.)
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a plate and coat with the

glaâge. Brown under a salamander or broiler.
6 . Serve immediately, garnished with grapes, or hold
hot for service.
NOTE: The grapes can be placed on top o f the paupiettes
before glazing w ith glagage and browning.
557
Poached Sole with

Vegetable Julienne
and Vin Blanc Sauce
Makes 10 servings

fillets to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300 to
325F/i49 to i 63C oven.
4 . After 6 minutes, add 3 shrimp per portion to the

pan. Poach for 4 to 6 minutes more, or until the
flesh of the fish and shrimp is opaque and gives un
der slight pressure.
Ten 5 to 6 -o z /1 4 2 to 1 7 0 -g flounder fillets
5 . Transfer the sole and shrimp to a half hotel pan, add
1 ts p /3 g salt
a small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic
V i tsp /1 g ground white pepper
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne, blanched

8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, cut into julienne, blanched
8 o z/2 2 7 g yellow squash, cut into julienne, blanched
8 o z/2 2 7 g zucchini, cut into julienne, blanched
1 o z/2 8 g butter
5 parsley stems
6 . Place the pan with the remaining cuisson over medium-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by twothirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add the veloute,
and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and
reduce the sauce to a nappe consistency. Add lemon
juice, if desired, and adjust seasoning with salt and
white pepper.

clean saucepan or bain-marie. Mix the chives and
5 chives
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g coarsely cracked white peppercorns
parsley into the sauce.

8 . Blot the sole rolls and shrimp dry on paper towels.
Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
service.
l i b 8 o z /6 8 0 g shrimp (2 1 /2 5
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed (optional)
Fillet o f Snapper en
Papillote
Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped parsley

Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g red snapper fillets
1 . Place the fillets skin side up on a work surface and

season with salt and white pepper. Combine the pep
pers, carrots, squash, and zucchini. Place a generous
portion of vegetables across each fillet, leaving the
1 ts p /3 g salt
vegetables extending over the edge of the fillets on
both sides. Roll or fold the fillets tail to head. Place
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate
2V i o z/71 g minced shallots
until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle it evenly

with the shallots. Place the parsley stems, chives,
and peppercorns on top of the shallots. Place the
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced green onions

5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced white mushrooms
5 fl o z /1 5 0 mL dry white wine
rolled sole portions, seam side down, on the bed of

shallots. Add the wine and fumet.

M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
1 . Cut 10 heart shapes out of parchment paper, large

enough to enclose the fillets. Lightly butter both
sides of the paper, using about 2 oz/57 g f the butter.
F ille t o f Snapper en Papillote
4 . Foldtheotherhalfoftheheartoverthefish.Crim
p
theedgesofthepapertosealtightly.Refrigerateun
tilneeded.
5. Foreachserving,place1parchm
entpackage
onasizzlerplatterorsheetpanandbakeina
425F/2i8Covenfor7minutes.Thepackageshould
bepuffyandthepaperbrown.Serveimmediately.
Foradramaticpresentation,cutthepackageopenin
frontofthediner.
Heattheremainingbutterinasautepanovermedi
um-highheat.Seasonthefilletswiththesaltandpep
per,dredgeinflour,andsearbrieflyonthefleshside
only,3to5minutes.Removethefishfromthepan.
Place1tbsp/15mLofthevelouteononesideofeach
parchmentheart. Sprinkle2tsp/6gshallotsonthe
veloute. Placethefillets, skinsidedown,ontheshal
lots. SprinkleV2 oz/14ggreenonionsontopofeach
fillet. ShingleV2 oz/14gslicedmushroomsoverthe
greenonions. Drizzlewith1tbsp/15mLwhitewine.
559
IN*
New England Shore Dinner
Boston Scrod with

Cream, Capers, and
Tomatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 1 3 g b u tte r
Makes 10 servings
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g sm all-dice onions
Vi o z /1 4
3 lb 1 2 o z /1 .7 0 kg scrod fille ts , cut

into ten 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g portions
g minced garlic
1 t s p /2 g dried thym e
1 t s p /3 g salt
2 bay leaves
/2
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock
(page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
4 o z /1 1 3 g b utter, cold
3 tb s p /9 g minced shallot
5 ears corn on th e cob, husked and q uartered

4 o z /1 1 3 g sliced mushrooms, sauteed
5 lobster tails, halved
10 f I o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
6 0 little n e c k or cherrystone clams, scrubbed
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Fish F um et (page 2 6 4 )
6 0 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL heavy cream
2 lb /9 0 7 g Red Bliss potatoes
4 o z /1 1 3 g to m ato concasse
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g cod fille ts , cut into
ten r /2 - o z /4 3 - g portions
2 t b s p /3 0 mL drained capers
2 t b s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
5 leeks, w hite and light green parts

only, split and washed
3 0 pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs rem oved
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g zucchini, cut into thick b atonnet
1. H
eatthebutterinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
theonionsandcook,stirringfrequently,untilthe
onionsaretenderandtranslucent, 2to3minutes.
Addthegarlicandsweatuntilaromatic, 1minute.
2 .A
ddthethyme,bayleaves,andstockandbringtoa
simmeroverlowheat.
3.Arrangethenextteningredientsontopoftheonion
mixtureinthefollowingsequence: corn,lobster,
clams,mussels,potatoes,cod,leeks,pearlonions,
scallops,andzucchini.
4 . Coverthepotw
ithatight-fittinglidandsteamover
mediumheatuntilalloftheingredientsarecooked
through,about25minutes.
5.Arrangethefish,seafood,andvegetablesonaplat
ter,orservedirectlyfromthepot. Garnishwithpars
ley.Strainthebrothandserveseparately,ifdesired.
I . Seasonthescrodwiththesaltandpepper.
2 . Lightlybutterasautoirw
ith1oz/28gofthebutterand
sprinkleitevenlywiththeshallotsandmushrooms.
Placethescrodontop.Addthewineandfumet.
3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim
mer(160to
i8o0F/7ito82C)overdirectheat. Placeapieceof
butteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)overthescrod
tocover.Transfertheentirepantoa35oF/i77C
oven.
4 . Poachuntilthescrodisopaqueandgivesunderslight
pressure, 10to12minutes. Transferthefishtoahalf
hotelpan,addasmallamountofthecuisson,cover
withplasticwrap,andholdwarm.
5. Reducethecreambyhalfoverm
ediumheat.Atthe
sametime,placethepanwiththeremainingcuisson
overmedium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreduce
bytwo-thirds.Reducetheheatunderthecuissonto
medium,addthecream,andsimmerfor1to2minutes.
6. Addtheconcasseandcapersandsimmerlongenough
forthesaucetoreachanappeconsistency,3to4min
utes.W
hiskorswirlintheremainingbutter,addthe
lemonjuice,andadjustseasoning.
7. Servethescrodandm
ushroomsimmediatelywith
thesauceorholdhotforservice.
New England Shore

Dinner
561
Pescado Veracruzana
M akes 10 servings
1 0 red snapper fille ts (about 6 o z /1 7 0 g each)
5. Poachthefishuntilcookedthrough(i40F/60C), 6
to8minutes.
6. Servethefishimmediatelywiththesaucespooned
overthetop.Garnisheachservingwithparsley.
1 ts p /3 g salt
Vi ts p /1
g ground black pepper
6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL lime juice
SAU C E
Cioppino
M akes 10 servings
3 f I o z /9 0 mL olive oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced onion
12 o z /3 4 0 g fin e ly diced onion
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg peeled, seeded, m edium -dice tom ato es
1 bunch green onions, green and w hite

portions, thin ly sliced on the bias
1 5 large green olives, p itte d and chopped

12 o z /3 4 0 g sm all-dice green pepper
4
Vi t s p /1 4
g drained capers, rinsed

12 o z /3 4 0 g sm all-dice fennel
5 pickled jalapenos, drained and cut into julienne

ltb s p /lO g s a lt
3 bay leaves
'/t ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
l
/' 2
ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped m arjoram or oregano
/2
ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped thym e
4 ts p /1 2 g minced garlic
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg to m ato concasse
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Fish Fum et (page 2 6 4 ), or as needed
8 f I o z /2 4 0 mL dry w hite wine
G A R N IS H
4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped parsley
1 .CutashallowXintheskinofthefilletsw
ithabon
ingknife. Seasonthefishwiththesaltandpepper
andmarinateitinthelimejuice, refrigerated,forat
leastlhourorovernight.
2 .Tom
akethesauce,heat2floz/6omLoftheoilin
asaucepanovermedium-highheat.Addtheonions
andgarlicandsauteuntiltheystarttoturngolden.
Addthetomatoes,olives,capers,jalapenos,bay
leaves,marjoramororegano,thyme,andstock.Bring
thesaucetosimmerandcookuntilthetomatoesare
softandtheflavorshaveblended.Adjustseasoning
withsaltandpepper,ifnecessary.Reserve.
3. Lightlygreaseashallowpanw
iththeremainingoil.
Placethesnapperinthepan,skinsidedown.Pour
thesauceoverandaroundthefish.
4 . Bringthesaucetojustunderasim
mer(i6oto
i8oF/7ito82C)overdirectheat.Placeapieceof
butteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)overthefishto
cover.Transfertheentirepantoa350F/i77Coven.
1 6 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Tom ato Sauce (page 2 9 5 )

2 bay leaves
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Fish Fum et (page 2 6 4 )
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg M anila clams, scrubbed
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g shrimp ( 1 6 /2 0
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg cod fille t, large dice
12 o z /3 4 0 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
10 G arlic-Flavored Croutons (recipe follow s)
3/ t o z /2 1 g basil chiffonade
1. H
eattheoilinalargesouppotovermediumheat.
Addtheonions,greenonions,peppers,andfennel
andseasonwithsaltandpepper. Sauteuntiltheon
ionsaretranslucent, 7to8minutes.Addthegarlic
andsauteuntilaromatic, 1minutemore.
2 .A
ddtheconcasse,wine,tomatosauce,bayleaves,
andfumet. Coverthepotandsimmerslowlyfor
about20minutes.Addmorefumetifnecessary.Re
moveanddiscardthebayleaves.
andscallopsarecookedandtheclamsandmussels
areopened,7to8minutes.
4 . Servethecioppinoim
mediately.Garnisheachserv
ingwithacroutonandsomebasil.
Makes10servings
Garlic-Flavored Croutons
Ten 7 to 8 - o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g
Makes10servings
Salt, as needed
1 0 thin slices French bread, cut on the diagonal
Ground w hite pepper, as needed
5 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
2 o z /5 7 g b u tte r
2 f I o z /6 0 mL olive oil
2 o z /5 7 g minced shallot
Salt, as needed
1 0 f I o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 )
1 .Arrangethebreadslicesonabakingsheet. Rubeach
slicewithgarlicandbrushlightlywithoilonboth
sides. Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
2 .Brow
nthebreadunderasalamanderorbroiler;turn
andbrownonthesecondside.Reserveuntilneeded.
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4 )

1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL heavy cream
1 tb s p /3 g chopped tarragon
1 . Seasonthechickenw
ithsaltandpepper.
2 . Lightlybutterashallowpanandsprinkleitevenly
withtheshallots. Placethechickenontop(skinside
up).Addthewineandstock.
mer(160to
i8oF/7ito82C)overdirectheat. Placeapiece
ofbutteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)over
thechickentocover.Transfertheentirepantoa
350F/i77Coven.
4 . Poachthechickenuntilcookedthrough
(i65F/74C), 12to14minutes.
5. Transferthechickentoahalfhotelpan,addasm
all
amountofthecuisson,coverwithplasticwrap,and
holdwarm.
6. Placethepanwiththeremainingcuissonovermedi
um-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreducebytwothirds. Reducetheheattomedium,addtheveloute,
andsimmerfor1to2minutes. Stirinthecreamand
reducetoanappeconsistency.Adjustseasoningwith
saltandwhitepepper.
7. Strainthesaucethroughafine-m
eshsieveintoa
cleansaucepanorbain-marielargeenoughtohold
thefinishedsauce. Stirthetarragonintothesauce.
8. Blotthechickendryonpapertowels. Serveimmedi
atelywiththesauceorholdhotforservice.
Poached Chicken
Breast with Tarragon
Sauce
3.A
ddtheseafoodandsimmeruntilthecod,shrimp,
563
Farmhouse Chicken
with Angel Biscuits
M akes 10 servings
Ten 7 to 8 - o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g boneless,
skinless chicken supremes
Salt, as needed
Ground w hite pepper, as needed
4 o z /8 5 g b u tte r
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g sliced w hite mushrooms
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock
(page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4 )
3 0 baby carrots, peeled and blanched
3 0 w hite turnip batonnet, blanched
3 0 rutabaga batonnet, blanched
1 5 Brussels sprouts, halved and blanched
2 0 Biscuit Dumplings (page 8 3 5 )
4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped dill
1. Seasonthechickenw
iththesaltandpepper.
2 . Lightlybutterashallowpanw
ithhalfofthebutter
andsprinkleevenlywiththeshallotsand8oz/227
gofthemushrooms. Placethechickenontop
(skinsideup).Addthewineandstock.
mer(160to
i8oF/7ito82C)overdirectheat. Placeapiece
ofbutteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)over
thechickentocover.Transfertheentirepantoa
350F/i77Coven.
4 . Poachthechickenuntilcookedthrough
(i65F/74C), 12to14minutes.
5. Transferthechickentoahalfhotelpan,adda
smallamountofthecuisson,coverwithplastic
wrap,andholdwarm.
6. Placethepanwiththeremainingcuissonover
medium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreduce
bytwo-thirds. Reducetheheattomedium,addthe
veloute,andreducetoanappeconsistency.Adjust
seasoningwithsaltandwhitepepper.
M EAT S, POULTRY. FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
7. Strainthesaucethroughafine-m
eshsieveintoa
cleansaucepanorbain-marie. Reservewarm.
8. Heat1oz/28goftheremainingbutterinasaute
panovermedium-highheat.Addtheremaining
mushroomsandsauteuntiltender. Seasonwith
saltandpepper.Reservewarm.
9. H
eattheremainingbutterinanothersautepan
andreheatthecarrots,turnips, rutabagas,and
Brusselssprouts.Addalittlestock,ifnecessary.
Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
10 .Servethechickenim
mediatelywiththesauce,
vegetables, andbiscuits. Garnishwithapinchof
choppedparsleyanddill.
M akes 8 servings
7.Arrangethechicken(abreastportionandeithera
drumstickorthigh)ineachbowlwithvegetables,
ladlebrothintothebowl,andfinishwiththechives.
Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
2 broiler chickens (about 3 lb /1 .3 6 kg

each), w ith giblets except livers
3'/2 q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 )
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 )
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 2 4 1 )
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice potatoes
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrots
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice celeriac
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice parsnips
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice leeks, w hite
and light green portions
1 t b s p /1 0 g salt
1 o z /2 8 g minced chives
1 . Rem
ovethebackbonesfromthechickensandreserve.
Cutthebirdsintoquarters,thenhalvethebreasts.
2 . Bringthestocktoasim
mer(i8otoi85F/82to
85C)inalargepot. Placethechickens,backbones,
necks, hearts,andgizzardsinanotherpotandadd
enoughsimmeringstocktocoverbyi to1V2in/3to
4cm.Returnthestocktoasimmeroverlowheat.
Skimcarefullythroughoutthecookingtime.
3.A
ddthebouquetgarniandsachet. Simmerforap
proximately45minutes.Transferthechickenlegs
andbreaststoacleanpot. Strainthebrothoverthe
chickenanddiscardthebouquetgarni, sachet,back
bones,necks, heart,andgizzards. Returnthebroth
toasimmerandcookoverlowheatfor30minutes
more.
4 .A
ddthevegetablestothebrothinastaggeredse
quencecookingeachforjustaminuteortwobefore
addingthenext: potatoes, carrots, celeriac,parsnips,
andtheleekslast.
5. Continuetosim
mer,skimmingasnecessary,until
thechickenisfork-tenderandallofthevegetables
aretender,20to25minutes.
6. Removethechickenandseparatethedrumsticks
fromthethighs. Cutthebreasthalvesinhalfagain,
onabias. Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
ch a p te r 19 S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
Poule au Pot (Chicken

with Vegetables)
565
Udon Noodle Pot

Makes10servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g dry udon noodles
Corned Beef with

Winter Vegetables
Makes12to14servings
10 lb /4 .5 4 kg corned b ee f brisket, trim m ed
1 g a l/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 2 6 6 }
2 0 little n e c k clams, scrubbed
3 q t/2 .8 8 L cold W h ite B eef Stock

(page 2 6 3 ) or w ater, or as needed
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g boneless, skinless chicken

thighs, cut into b ite-size pieces
2 lb /9 0 7 g green cabbage, cut into 1 2 to 1 4 wedges

1 4 new potatoes, halved
2 0 shrimp ( 3 1 /3 6 count), peeled, deveined, blanched

3 0 baby carrots, peeled
2 lb 3 o z /9 9 2 g shiitake mushrooms, stem m ed
1 4 baby turnips, peeled
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g baby bok choy,
halved and cored, blanched
1 lb /4 5 4 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1 lb /4 5 4 g spinach, chiffonade
S alt, as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g carrots, cut into coins, blanched
8 o z /2 2 7 g snow peas, strings rem oved, blanched

10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL soy sauce
2 tb s p /3 0 mL mirin
2 green onions, thin ly sliced on the bias
1. Bringalargepotofsaltedw
atertoaboil. Cookthe
noodlesuntiljusttender,6to8minutes. Drainthe
noodlesandrinseundercoldwater. Drainagain,
tosswiththeoil, andreserve.
2 . Bringthedashitoasim
merinalargepot.
3. Placetheclam
s,chicken,shrimp,andshiitakesin
aseparatepotandladlethesimmeringdashiover
thetop.Returntoasimmerandpoachuntilthe
clamsovermediumheatareopenandthechickenis
cookedthrough(i65F/74C).
4 . Servetheclam
s,chicken,shrimp,andshiitakesin
abowlonabedofthenoodleswiththebokchoy,
spinach,carrots,andsnowpeas. Ladlethedashiover
thetopandserveimmediately.Garnishwiththesoy
sauce,mirin,andgreenonions.
1 . Splitthebrisketalongthenaturalseaminto2pieces.
2 .Placethem
eatinadeeppotandaddenoughstock
orwatertocoverthemeat. Bringtoasimmer(180
toi85F/82to85C), skimmingthesurfaceasnec
essary.Reducetheheattoestablishaslowsimmer,
cover, andcontinuesimmeringuntilthemeatis
nearlyforktender, about2V2hours.
3.A
ddthevegetablestothecornedbeefandcontinue
tosimmeruntiltheyaretenderandflavorfulandthe
cornedbeefisfork-tender,35to45minutes. Season
withsaltandpepperasneededthroughoutthecook
ingtime.
4 . Rem
ovethecornedbeeffromthecookingliquidand
carveintoslices. Serveimmediatelywiththeveg
etablesorholdhotforservice.
J.Addthecinnamon,staranise,andclovestothe
brothandcontinuetosimmeruntiltheirflavoris
apparent,about30minutes. Strainthebrothand
seasonwithsaltandpepper. Reserve.
6. Removethebeefshoulderfromthewater,sliceit
intothinpieces, andreserve.
atertoaboil.Addthe
noodlesandcookuntiljusttender. Serveimmedi
atelyorrinseuntilcool,drainwell,andreheatat
service.
8. Bringthebrothtoaboil. Foreachportion,place
noodlesinabowl.Placesomebeansproutsandon
ionslicesoverthenoodles, followedbyafewslices
ofthebeefshoulder. Lay2or3slicesoftherawbeef
overthecookedshoulder.Ladletheboilingbroth
intothebowl.Thebrothshouldcoverthemeatby1
in/3cm9 . Serveim
mediately,garnishedwiththegreenonions,
herbs,andchiles. Servealimewedgeandchilisauce
ontheside.
Makes10servings
1 0 lb /4 .5 4 kg b ee f m arrow bones
2 lb /9 0 7 g b e e f shoulder clod
3 g a l/1 1 .5 2 L w a te r
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g ginger, cut in h alf lengthwise, dry roasted
1 0 medium shallots, peeled, dry roasted
8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL fish sauce
6 cinnamon sticks
1 2 s ta r anise pods, lightly toasted
6 cloves, lightly toasted
Salt, as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g rice noodles, Vs in /3 mm wide
6 o z /1 7 0 g bean sprouts
1 medium onion, sliced paper thin
Beef Noodle Soup

(Pho Bo)
8 o z /2 2 7 g b ee f strip loin, slightly

fro zen , sliced paper thin
4 green onions, sliced thin
3 0 Thai basil leaves
3 0 cilantro leaves
3 0 m int leaves
3 0 rau ram leaves
5 Thai chiles, sliced paper thin
1 0 lime wedges
5 f l o z /1 5 0 mL V ie tn a m es e chili sauce
1. Blanchthebonesandbeefshoulder. Drain.
2 . Inalargepot,coverthebonesandshoulderw
iththe
water.Addtheginger,shallots,fishsauce,andsugar.
Bringtoaboil.
3. Sim
meruntiltheshoulderistender,about1V2hours,
skimmingthesurfacethroughoutthecookingtime,
asneeded.
4 . Rem
ovetheshoulderfromtheliquidandsubmerge
itinabowlofcoolwaterfor15minutes.
569
Boiled Beef
with Spatzle
and Potatoes
Seafood Poached in
a Saffron Broth with
Fennel
(G aisburger Marsch)
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)

1 ts p /1 .5 0 g saffron threads, crushed
4 lb/1.81 kg beef shank meat,

cut into V i-in /l-c m cubes
1 gal 2 q t/5 .7 6 L White Beef Stock (page 263)
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Pernod
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg medium-dice onion
2 bay leaves
1 lb /4 5 4 g fennel, cut into julienne
1 clove
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg assorted seafood (see Note)
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice potatoes
1 lb/454 g tomato concasse
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice leeks,

white and light green portions
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley or fennel fronds
3 o z/8 5 g butter
2 lb /9 0 7 g Spatzle (page 834), cooked in beef
broth or salted water, drained, and cooled
1 . Combine the fumet, saffron, sachet, Pernod, wine,

and fennel in a large sautoir. Simmer at 180 to
i85F/82 to 85C until the fennel is barely tender
and the broth is well flavored, about 12 minutes.
Remove the sachet. Season with salt and pepper. Use
1 . Blanch the beef. Drain.

2 . Combine the beef with the stock, 12 oz/340 g of
the onions, the bay leaves, and clove in a large
pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer
until the beef is tender. Skim as necessary and
season with salt and pepper as needed throughout
the cooking time.
3 . After 45 minutes to 1 hour, remove enough of

the beef broth to cover the potatoes in a medium
saucepan. Cook the potatoes until tender, 10 to
15 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool slightly.
Add the leeks to the broth and parcook for 3 min
utes; remove and cool.
4 . Meanwhile, saute the remaining onions in the

butter in a medium-large saute pan until golden
brown.
5 . Add the potatoes and spatzle and heat through.

Add the leeks and parsley. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper. Serve immediately with beef or
570
immediately or cool rapidly and store for later use.
2.. At the time of service, bring the broth and fennel to

a bare simmer. Add the seafood and poach until it is
just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the toma
toes and continue to cook until heated through.
3 . Serve immediately with the broth, or hold hot for

service. Garnish with parsley.
NOTE: A variety o f seafood may be used, including shrimp,
monkfish, squid, shark, scallops, and lobster.
praising
Itewing
Braises and stews have a robust, hearty flavor and are often considered
fall and winter meals. They are often thought of as peasant dishes because
they frequently call for less tender (and less expensive) main ingredients
than other techniques. However, by replacing traditional ingredients with
poultry, fish, or shellfish, braises and stews can be faster to prepare,
lighter in flavor and color, and appropriate for contemporary menus.
To
B R A I S E M E A T , F I R S T S E A R IT IN H O T F A T T O T H E D E S I R E D C O L O R , T H E N S I M M E R IT IN A C O V E R E D
V E S S E L IN S T O C K O R A N O T H E R C O O K I N G LI Q. UI D. T H E A M O U N T O F LI Q. UI D U S E D
C R U C I A L TO T H E S U C C E S S O F T H E F I N I S H E D D I S H .
Be S U R E
IN T H E B R A I S E IS
T O H A V E E N O U G H LI Q. UI D TO K E E P T H E F O O D
M O I S T E N E D T H R O U G H O U T T H E C O O K I N G T I M E A N D T O P R O D U C E A N A D E Q U A T E A M O U N T O F S A U C E TO
S E R V E W I T H T H E F I N I S H E D I T E M . T Y P I C A L L Y , O N E T H I R D TO O N E H A L F O F T H E M A I N I T E M S H O U L D B E
S U B M E R G E D IN T H E C O O K I N G M E D I U M .
braises
One o f the b e n e fits o f b ra isin g is th a t tou gh cuts o f m eat becom e te n d e r as th e m o ist heat
g e n tly p e n e tra te s th e m eat and causes th e connective tissue s to so fte n . A n o th e r b e n e fit
is th a t fla v o r is released in to th e cooking liquid to becom e th e accom panying sauce; thus
v irtu a lly all th e fla v o r is retained. The sauce re s u ltin g fro m a braise also has exceptional
body, as th e slow cooking breaks down th e tou gh connective tissu e s and causes them to
tra n s fo rm in to gelatin.
Tender foo ds, even de lica te fis h and she llfish , can also be braised. To p ro p e rly braise
these kinds o f foo ds, use less cooking liquid and cook th e fo o d a t a low er te m p e ra tu re fo r
a s h o rte r perio d o f tim e.
The less te n d e r cuts o f m eat to be braised come fro m m ore m ature and m ore exercised
anim als. These cuts are m ore deeply fla v o re d than th e te n d e r fo o d s used fo r sauteing and
steam ing. Braised fo o d s are o fte n le ft in a single large piece th a t can be sliced or carved.
It's a good idea to tru s s o r tie the m eat in o rd e r to m aintain th e p ro p e r shape.
Food may also be w rapped in le ttu c e leaves or o th e r coverings to help m aintain the
shape and pre ven t th e fo o d fro m breaking a p a rt du rin g cooking.
The cooking liquids usually co n sist o f rich sto c k o r a com b in ation o f a s to c k and a sauce
(such as espagnole, dem i-glace, o r veloute) suited to th e main item 's flavor. B roths, essences,
or veg etab le ju ices may also be used. W ine is o fte n used to deglaze th e pan b e fo re the
braising liquid is added.
A ro m a tic vegetables, o r herbs, are so m e tim es added f o r m ore flavo r. If th e y are to be
stra in e d o u t o f the sauce o r pureed and added back to th e sauce, u n ifo rm cuts are n o t so
im p o rta n t. However, when a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts w ill be used as a garnish in th e fin ish e d
dish, th e y should be peeled, cu t to a u n ifo rm size and shape, and added to the dish in the
pro pe r sequence, so th a t all com ponents fin is h cooking a t th e same tim e.
Tom ato pro du cts may be included to give th e fin is h e d dish a d d itio n a l fla v o r and color
i f m aking a brown braise. Tom ato concasse, to m a to puree, o r to m a to paste can all be used.
Prepare a sachet d'epices or bouq ue t garni includ in g spices, herbs, and o th e r a ro m a tic in
g re d ie n ts as desired o r re q u ire d by th e recipe. A w hole g a rlic head can be ro a ste d w ith a
little o il and added to give a deeper, s w e e te r fla v o r to th e dish.
To th icke n th e braising liquid f o r a sauce, use roux, ro u x-th icke n e d sauces, reductions,
beurre manie, or, as a la st re s o rt, a pure starch slurry. M ire p o ix may also be pureed and
added back to th e sauce to th icke n it.
Choose a heavy-gauge braising pan or rondeau w ith a lid o f a size and shape th a t best
f it s the m eat or p o u ltry f o r slow, even cooking. Use a kitche n fo rk to te s t doneness and a
spoon to rem ove the fo o d fro m th e sauce. Also have a carving k n ife and o th e r eq uipm ent
to fin is h the sauce, such as a s tra in e r a n d /o r im m ersion blender.
572
braises
basic formula
Braising
(4 entree portions)
32 to 40 oz/850 g to 1.13
kg meat, poultry, or fish
2 q t/1 .9 2 L cooking liquid (brown

stock, brown sauce, and/or other
(sachet depices or bouquet
fla vo rfu l liquids, such as wine)
garni, fo r example)
4 oz/113 g prepared aromatics

(mirepoix and/or other vegetables)
A dditional finishing or garnishing
ingredients as appropriate
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Sear the main item on all

sides in hot fat.
Remove the main item.
To thicken the sauce,
any one o f the follow ing may be used, de
Add the m irepoix and sweat

it.
pending on your desired results. Flour may be added either by dusting the main
Add the roux, if it is being

used.
a sauce, cook it over medium heat to a good consistency.
item or by adding it directly to the pan w ith the aromatic vegetables. To reduce
FLO U R (R O U X ) / STARCH S L U R R Y / PU REED A R O M A T IC V EG ETAB LES /

R E D U C TIO N / BEURRE M A N IE
Return the main item to the

bed of m irepoix in the pot.
6 . Add the liquid.
Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added
Bring it to a simmer over

direct heat.
later on so th a t they retain th e ir individual flavor and/or texture:

R O ASTED G A R LIC / SA C H E T D 'E PIC E S OR B O U Q U ET G A R NI / A D D IT IO N A L
Cover; finish the braise in

the oven until it is fo rk tender.
VEG ETAB LES
The sauce fo r the braise
9 . Add the sachet depices or
may be served unstrained, containing
ingredients th a t are cooked along w ith the main item, such as potatoes and
bouquet garni and garnishes

at the appropriate times.
other vegetables. In other instances, the sauce is strained before it is served

and any additional finishing or garnishing ingredients are added ju s t before
serving.
10 . Remove the main item and
keep it warm.
Prepare the sauce: strain,
reduce, thicken, and garnish
it as desired.
Slice or carve the main item
and serve it w ith a sauce and
an appropriate garnish.
ch a p te r 20 B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
573
1. trim fabricated cuts of meat of

all excess f a t and g ris tle . M e a t o r p o u ltry should be sea
soned w ith s a lt and fre s h ly ground pepper, spice blends,
o r m arinades b e fo re searing.
P ro p e rly fa b ric a te d m eat im proves th e q u a lity and
fla v o r o f th e dish. B raising c o n ce n tra te s th e n a tural f la
vors o f th e main item , co o kin g liquid, and added in g re d i
ents, b u t it is s till im p o rta n t to season th e fo o d b e fo re be
ginn ing to cook. Long sim m e ring tim e s reduce th e volum e
o f liquid and make re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts o f seasoning
m ore intense. Taste and ad ju st seasoning th ro u g h o u t the
e n tire coo kin g process.
2. sear the meat to develop fla v o r and a rich

brow n color. H eat th e pan and oil and sear th e seasoned
main ite m on all sides to a deep brown. Cook th e main
ite m on high heat, tu rn in g it as o fte n as necessary, ju s t
u n til each side is w e ll colored. For a pa le r dish, som etim es
re fe rre d to as a w h ite braise, som e fo o d s are cooked only
u n til th e ir e x te rio r seizes, w ith o u t brow ning. A fte r s ea r
ing, th e main ite m should be rem oved, the heat lowered,
and the m ire p o ix should be cooked to th e desired color.
574
braises
3. after browning the mirepoix,

cook th e to m a to pa ste u n til it tu rn s a deep ru s t c o lo r and
sm ells sw eet. Onions are ty p ic a lly added to th e pan f ir s t
and allow ed to cook to th e a p p ro p ria te color: te n d e r and
tra n s lu c e n t f o r a lig h t-c o lo re d braise, o r deep golden fo r
a brow n braise. A llo w enough tim e to cook th e se in g re d i
ents p ro p e rly. A dd o th e r v eg etab le s, herbs, and spices to
th e pan in sequence.
A cid ic in g re d ie n ts such as to m a to e s o r w ine are o fte n
added to a braise. In a d d itio n to deglazing th e pan and
relea sing th e fon d, th e liq u id a n d /o r acid helps to s o fte n
th e tou gh tissu e s o f som e braised fo o d s and adds a d e s ir
able fla v o r and c o lo r to th e fin is h e d dish.
4. add enough Stock to th e pingage to

cover th e ite m by o n e -th ird to on e-h alf. B ring to a sim m er.
Add th e main ite m back to th e sim m e rin g liquid, along
w ith any a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts. Cover th e p o t and braise
in th e oven.
The am o un t o f liq u id should be ad ap te d to s u it the
c h a ra c te ris tic s o f th e m ain item . B rin g th e liquid ju s t up to
a sim m e r (n o t a tru e boil), s tirrin g w ell, e sp e cia lly if flo u r
was added to th e a ro m a tic vegetables.
Add the a ro m a tics (such as ro a ste d ga rlic, a sachet
o r bouquet, a d d itio n a l veg etab le s, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts)
a t th e a p p ro p ria te tim e . Add som e a ro m a tics ea rly in the
cooking process to in fu se th e dish w ith th e flavo r. O th
ers may be added la te r in th e process so th e y re ta in th e ir
fla v o r or te x tu re .
c h a p te r 20 B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
575
5. braise until the main item is

fu lly cooked and tender. E stab lish a slow sim m er over d i
re c t heat, cover th e po t, and fin is h coo kin g the braise in a
m e d iu m -lo w oven (a p p ro xim a te ly 2 7 5 to 3 2 5 F /1 3 5 to
163C ) o r over low d ire c t heat. S tir, skim , and ad ju st the
seasoning and am ount o f liq u id th ro u g h o u t th e cooking
tim e . Baste o r tu rn th e fo o d s fro m tim e to tim e to keep
all surface s evenly m oiste ne d w ith the cooking liquid. This
helps to ensure th a t the fo o d cooks evenly.
Remove th e lid du rin g th e fin a l p a rt o f th e cooking
tim e . This w ill cause th e coo kin g liquid to reduce ade
q u a te ly so th a t th e sauce w ill have a good con sisten cy and
flavo r. Also, if th e main ite m is tu rn e d fre q u e n tly a fte r
the lid has been rem oved and is thus exposed to h o t air,
a glaze w ill fo rm on th e surface, p ro vid in g a glossy sheen
and good fla vo r. F o rk -te n d e r braised fo o d s slide easily
fro m a kitch e n fo rk or may be cut w ith the side o f a fo rk .
Even tho ugh ca rryo ve r coo kin g is n o t as big a fa c to r
f o r the se dishes as it is f o r roa sts, g rills , and sautes, it is
s till easier to carve fo o d s a fte r the y are allow ed to re s t
f o r several m inutes. T ransfe r th e m ain ite m to a pan and
keep it w arm w h ile fin is h in g th e sauce.
As th e braised fo o d rests, th e sauce can be fin ish e d
in a num ber o f ways. Remove and discard the sachet
depices o r b o uq ue t garni. R eturn the bra isin g liquid to a
sim m er and degrease the sauce by skim m ing away any
surface fa t. Once it reaches th e c o rre c t consistency,
a d ju st seasoning as needed. M any braises include veg
etables, p o ta to e s, or o th e r com ponents th a t are cooked
along w ith th e main item . Serve the se sauces unstrained.
In o th e r instances, th e sauce is stra in e d b e fo re it is
served.
The braise may be cooled ra p id ly and sto re d in the re
fr ig e ra to r f o r la te r use, i f desired. Add any fin a l fin is h in g
or g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts ju s t b e fo re serving the braise.
W ell made braises have an intense fla vo r, as a re s u lt
o f th e long, g e n tle cooking, and a s o ft, a lm o st m e ltin g te x
ture. The main item 's n a tural juices, along w ith th e cooking
liquid, becom e con ce n tra te d , p ro vid in g bo th a deep fla v o r
and a fu ll-b o d ie d sauce. Braised fo o d s have a deep color
depending on th e ty p e o f fo o d . They should re ta in th e ir
n a tural shape, although a s ig n ific a n t am ount o f volum e
is lo s t du rin g cooking. When done, braised fo o d s are ex
tre m e ly tender. They should not, however, be dry o r fa ll
in to shreds. This w ould in d ica te th a t the fo o d has been
overcooked or cooked to o ra p id ly a t a high heat.
576
tew s
the
s h a re
m a n y
FINISHED
sim ilarities w ith b r a is e s
dish
.Th
e y
fr o m
the
cuts of m eat ch o sen
to th e t e x t u r e
D I F F E R F R O M B R A I S E S IN T H A T T H E F O O D S A R E C U T I NT O B I T E ' S I Z E P I E C E S
stews
OF
A N D A R E C O O K E D IN M O R E LIQ. UI D. S T E W S A R E O F T E N T H O U G H T O F A S O N E D I S H M E A L S , P R O D U C I N G A
T E N D E R A N D H I G H L Y F L A V O R E D DI SH I N C L U D I N G NO T O N L Y MEAT, P O U L T R Y , OR S E A F O O D , B U T A L S O A
V A R I E T Y O F V E G E T A B L E S IN A R E D O L E N T A R O M A T I C S A U C E .
The sauce its e lf ta ke s on a deeper fla v o r and body during ste w in g as fla v o rs m ig rate fro m
the o th e r ingre die nts. It is also possible to fin is h a ste w w ith cream, herbs, o r a liaison o f
eggs and cream.
Stew s are based on th e same cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , o r fis h as a braise. These cuts o fte n
req uire extended m o is t-h e a t cooking in o rd e r to becom e te n d e r and palatable. Trim the
fo o d o f e x te rio r and in te rio r fa t, g ris tle , and sinew. D ivide la rge r cuts along seam lines to
make it easier to cu t across th e grain f o r a m ore te n d e r fin is h e d stew. The size o f th e cut
w ill vary acco rding to th e s ty le o f stew, b u t ty p ic a lly the y are 1 in /2 .5 cm cubes. If the y are
cu t to o sm all, to o much o f th e surface area w ill be exposed and th e m eat w ill dry out.
Season fo o d s fo r ste w in g b e fo re cooking, using salt, pepper, m arinades, o r d ry rubs to
give th e fin is h e d dish a com plex and dynam ic fla vo r. S e le ct th e coo kin g liquid according to
th e fo o d being stew ed or th e recipe's recom m endation. F la vo rfu l sto c k s o r com binations
o f s to cks and sauces, v eg etab le o r f r u it ju ices, o r w a te r m ay be used. S tew s o fte n include
vegetables, bo th as an a ro m a tic com ponent and as an in te g ra l com p on ent o f th e dish.
Rinse, peel, and cu t vegetables in to un ifo rm shapes so th a t th e y w ill cook p ro pe rly. Keep
th e veg etab le s separated so th a t th e y can be added to the ste w in th e p ro p e r sequence.
Choose a heavy-gauge braising pan or rondeau w ith a lid f o r slow, even cooking. Have
a ladle o r skim m e r available to skim th e ste w as it cooks. To te s t f o r doneness, use a tab le
fo rk to cut a piece, or b ite in to a sm all po rtio n .
Some stew s call fo r the main m eat o r p o u ltry to be du sted w ith flo u r and then cooked
in h o t oil ju s t u n til i t s ta rts to s tiffe n , w ith no brow ning. O th e r stew s call f o r th e main item
to be cooked to a deep brown. Once th e m eat, p o u ltry , or fis h is p ro p e rly colored, rem ove
it fro m th e pan and keep it w arm w hile sw eating, sm othe rin g, o r bro w n ing th e a ro m atic
vegetables, if required.
W hite stew s such as blanquettes do not call fo r the main ite m to be seared b e fore the
cooking liquid is added. Instead, a seasoned cooking liquid is added d ire c tly to the uncooked
meat. O therw ise, the stew ing liquid is added to the pan w ith th e arom atics and the main item
is return ed to the stew.
M eats, p o u ltry, and fis h should be trim m e d and seasoned. It m ay be a p p ro p ria te to
d u st the se ite m s w ith flo u r. Peel and cu t fr u its and veg etab le s as necessary. Beans and
grains may req uire soaking or parcooking.
c h a p te r 20 B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G
577
basic formula
Stewing
(1 entree portion)
1 portion (8 to 10 oz/227 to
284 g) meat, poultry, or fish
1 oz/28 g prepared aromatics

(mirepoix and/or other vegetables)
Additional flavoring or garnishing

ingredients (see individual recipes)

(sachet d'epices or bouquet
garni, for example)
8 to 10 fl oz/240 to 300 mL cooking

liquid (stock, sauce, and/or other
flavorful liquids such as wine)
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
expert tips Q
1. Sear or blanch the main

item.
2.
Remove the main item

from the pot; drain the
blanching liquid, if used.
3. Brown or sweat the
To thicken the stew,
any one of the following may be used, de
pending on your desired results. Flour may be added either by dusting the main
item or by adding it directly to the pan with the aromatic vegetables. To reduce
the sauce, cook it over medium heat to a good consistency.
mirepoix.
FLO U R (R O U X ) / STARCH S L U R R Y / PUREED A R O M A T IC V EG ETAB LES /
4 . Return the main item to the
R E D U C TIO N / BEURRE M A N IE
bed o f mirepoix in the pot.

5. Add the liquid.
6 . Bring the liquid to a simmer

over direct heat.
7. Cover the pot; finish the
stew in the oven until it is

tender to the bite.
8. Add the sachet d'epices
or bouquet garni
and garnishes at the
appropriate times.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.

Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added
later on so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture.
SA C H ET D EPIC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R N I / G ARLIC
FOP a healthier option:
high in starch) to thicken the stew in place of roux or a slurry.
9. Reduce the sauce, if
necessary. (Remove the

main item firs t.)
10. Garnish the stew as
appropriate, and serve.
stews
1. heat the pan and o il and s e a rth e seasoned

m ain ite m on all sides to th e de sire d color, o r com bine the
main ite m w ith th e co o kin g liquid. B rin g th e coo kin g liquid
to a sim m e r s e p a ra te ly b e fo re po uring it over th e p re
pared m eat. This w ay th e co o kin g liquid can be seasoned
and th e overall coo kin g tim e sho rte ne d. It also im proves
the te x tu re o f th e dish.
S earing th e m ain ite m assists in de veloping c o lo r and
fla vo r. In o rd e r to develop a good color, th e main ite m
should n o t be added to th e p o t in q u a n titie s so large th a t
th e pieces are to u c h in g one another. If th e y to u c h , the
pan's te m p e ra tu re w ill be low ered s ig n ific a n tly , hind erin g
p ro p e r coloring. Instead, sear th e ite m in batches, and
rem ove each batch when it has developed good color.
The am o un t o f liq u id re q u ire d v a rie s fro m one c u t o f
m ea t o r p o u ltry to another. D e lica te or te n d e r foo ds, such
as fis h o r sh e llfish , may re q u ire ve ry litt le added m o istu re
to ste w succe ssfully.
Tougher cu ts may need p ro p o rtio n a te ly m ore liquid
f o r a lo ng er co o kin g tim e as w e ll as to s o fte n to u g h t is
sues. C onsult s p e c ific recipe s f o r guidance.
2. cover the meat or main item

co m p le te ly in th e cooking liquid. S kim m ing im proves the
flavo r, color, and te x tu re o f th e fin is h e d dish by rem oving
im p u ritie s and pa rticle s. Keep a sm all bowl nearby to hold
the skim m ed scum.
B ring th e liq u id to a sim m e r over low heat, cover the
pot, and fin is h th e s te w in a m edium oven or over low
d ire c t heat, uncovered. S tir, skim , and a d ju s t th e am ount
o f liq u id and seasoning th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . Add
any a d d itio n a l a ro m a tics and ve g e ta b le garnish in the
p ro p e r sequence th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e f o r a rich
com plex fla v o r and p e rfe c t te x tu re . In som e dishes, some
o r all o f th e garnish is pre pa red s e p a ra te ly to m aintain
color. Add parcooked, blanched, or qu ick-co o kin g in gre
d ie n ts as close to service tim e as reasonable. Be sure to
ta s te th e coo kin g liq u id b e fo re d e cid ing w h a t aro m atics,
if any, are needed. If th e s to c k is ve ry fla v o rfu l already, a
b o uq ue t g a rni o r sach et may n o t be necessary.
chapter 20 B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI NG
579
3. before removing the meat
or main
ite m to fin is h th e sauce, check a fe w pieces to be sure th a t

th e y are fu lly cooked and ten der. P ro p e rly cooked stew ed
fo o d s should be easy to cu t w ith th e side o f a ta b le fo rk .
(Texture co n tra s t, when desired, may be pro vid ed by a
fin a l garnish o r side dish.) D iscard th e sach et d'epices or
bo uq ue t garni. S tew s m ay be prepa red to th is po in t, then
cooled and s to re d f o r la te r service. C ooling the s te w makes
it easy to l i f t any f a t fro m th e surface.
Finish the stew ing liquid in to a sauce. F irst, remove the
solid ingredients w ith a s lo tte d spoon or skimmer. M oisten
them w ith a little o f the cooking liquid, cover, and keep warm.
Strain the sauce if necessary and thicken by reducing it over
d ire c t heat. Add any a d ditiona l thickeners, such as a prepared
roux or a starch slurry, and continue to cook, skim m ing as nec
essary, u n til the sauce has good fla v o r and consistency.
R eturn th e solid in g re d ie n ts to th e sauce and re tu rn
th e ste w to a sim m er. M any stew s include a d d itio n a l com
ponents, such as veg etab le s, m ushroom s, p o ta to e s, or
dum plings. When th e se in g re d ie n ts are cooked along w ith
th e m ain in g re d ie n t, th e ir own fla v o rs are im proved as w ell
as th e fla v o r o f th e e n tire stew.
method in detail
4. make the final adjustments
to
th e stew 's fla v o r and consistency. The fin is h e d stew should

have a v e lv e ty sauce, and each in g re d ie n t is fu lly cooked
b u t s till re ta in s its shape. Add heavy cream o r te m p e r a lia i
son (see page 2 4 9 ) in to th e ste w as a fin is h in g and e n rich
ing s tep . A d ju s t th e co n siste n cy by a d d itio n a l sim m e ring if
necessary. Season w ith sa lt, pepper, lem on ju ice, o r o th e r
in g re d ie n ts. Add a d d itio n a l garnish in g re d ie n ts to th e stew
e ith e r in batches o r by in d ivid u a l servings.
Evaluate th e q u a lity o f th e stew. A w ell-m a de ste w has
a rich fla v o r and a s o ft, a lm o st m e ltin g te x tu re . The natural
ju ic e s o f th e in g re d ie n ts, along w ith th e cooking liquid, be
come co n ce n tra te d and p ro vid e bo th good fla v o r and a fu llbodied sauce. The m ajor com p on ents in a ste w re ta in th e ir
na tural shape, alth ou gh a ce rta in am ount o f volum e may be
lo s t du rin g cooking. W hen done, a ste w is e x tre m e ly tender,
a lm o st to th e p o in t w here it can be cu t w ith a fo rk b u t not
to w here it fa lls in to shreds. This w ould in d ica te th a t the
fo o d has been overcooked. S tew s o fte n ta s te b e tte r a day
or tw o a fte r p re p a ra tio n . R eheating can ta ke place on low
d ire c t heat o r in th e oven o r m icrow ave.
580
Makes 10 servings
7 . Transfer the oxtails and vegetables to a hotel pan or

other holding container and moisten with some of
the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the
10 lb /4.54 kg oxtails, cut into 2-in /5-cm cross

sections
sauce.
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt, or as needed
and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the
l 3/ t ts p /3 .5 0 g ground black pepper, or as needed
sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
strain.
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

2 f I o z/6 0 mL tomato puree
9 . Serve the oxtails immediately with the sauce and

vegetables or hold hot for service. Garnish with the
deep-fried onions.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL dry red wine

Deep-Fried Onions
Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, tourne or cut in batonnet

6 o z/1 7 0 g celeriac, tourne or cut in batonnet
6 o z/1 7 0 g white turnips, tourne or cut in batonnet
12 o z/3 4 0 g onion, cut in julienne or thin rings
6 o z/1 7 0 g rutabaga, tourne or cut in batonnet
10 o z /2 8 4 g Deep-Fried Onions (recipe follows)
Salt, as needed
1 . Season the oxtails with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the oxtails
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all
sides. This may need to be done in batches so that
the rondeau is not overcrowded. Transfer the oxtails
braising and stewing recipes
Braised Oxtails
1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fryer or a deep pot to

375F/i9 iC.
2 . Dredge the onions in the flour and shake off any ex

cess. Deep fry until golden brown.
3 . Drain on paper towels, season with salt, and hold

warm until ready to serve.
to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the mirepoix to the

011 and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden
brown. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about l
minute.
4 . Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine to

the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Re
duce the wine by half. Return the oxtails to the pan
along with any juices they may have released. Add
the stock to cover the oxtails by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and

add the sachet. Cover the pot and transfer to a
350F/i77C oven. Braise the oxtails for 2 hours.
6 . Add the carrots, celeriac, turnips, and rutabaga.
Continue to braise until the meat is fork-tender and
the vegetables are fully cooked, about 30 minutes,
turning the oxtails occasionally to keep them evenly
moistened.
chapter 20 B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI NG
581
Korean Braised Short

Ribs (Kalbi Jjim)
Makes 10 servings
6 . Meanwhile, heat half of the vegetable oil in a saute

pan. Cook the egg whites to make a thin omelet.
Repeat with the remaining oil and egg yolks. Cut
both the egg white and egg yolk omelets into lozenge
shapes. Reserve.
10 dried shiitake mushrooms
7 . Remove and discard the ginger from the cooking
2 0 beef short ribs pieces (about 10 lb /4.54 kg),

3-in/8-cm lengths
liquid. Add the sugar and adjust seasoning with soy
oil and cook until heated through.
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce, or as needed

8 o z/2 2 7 g onions, cut into 2-in /5-cm pieces
sauce, if necessary. Stir in the pine nuts and sesame

8 . Serve the short ribs immediately with the sauce, or
hold hot for service. Garnish with the omelet
lozenges.
2 o z/5 7 g ginger, peeled and lightly crushed

6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 V i o z/71 g Chinese red dates (jujubes)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced daikon
1 lb /4 5 4 g oblique-cut carrots
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
2 tbsp/BO mL vegetable oil
4 eggs, separated
Sugar, as needed
1 . Rehydrate the mushrooms in cool water overnight or

in warm water the day of service. Cut off the stems
and halve the mushrooms. Strain the rehydration
water and reserve.
2 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the short

ribs for 6 to 8 minutes to remove any impurities.
Skim the scum that forms on the surface; drain and
rinse.
3 . Place the blanched short ribs in a large pot and add

the mirin, soy sauce, onions, ginger, garlic, dates,
and enough reserved mushroom-infused water to
just cover the short ribs.
4 . Simmer over low heat until the short ribs are forktender, about 2 hours, turning occasionally to keep
the beef evenly moistened.
5 . When the meat is fork-tender, add the mushrooms,

daikon, carrots, and salt and simmer until the veg
etables are tender, about 10 minutes more.
Braised Short Ribs

Makes 10 servings

and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the
sauce. Adjust seasoning with the remaining salt and
pepper and strain. Stir in the Madeira or sherry and
10 beef short ribs pieces (about 8 lb 8 o z/3 .8 5 kg),

2-in/5-cm lengths
bring to a simmer to cook out some of the alcohol
flavor to finish the sauce.
/2
tb sp /1 5 g salt
l 3/ t ts p /3 .5 0 g ground black pepper

9 . Serve the short ribs immediately with the sauce, or

8 o z/2 2 7 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry red wine
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293), or
Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
Beef Rouiaden in
Burgundy Sauce
Makes 10 servings
2 bay leaves
Pinch dried thyme
3 lb /1.36 kg boneless beef bottom round,

trimmed and cut into twenty 2 -o z/5 7 -g pieces
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Madeira or sherry
1 . Season the short ribs with l tbsp/io g salt and 1V2

tsp/3 g pepper.
2.. Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Rouiaden Stuffing (recipe follows)

20 gherkins
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
the short ribs carefully in the oil and sear until deep
brown on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onions
short ribs to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the mirepoix to

the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until
4 o z /1 1 3 g tomato puree
golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Burgundy or other dry red wine
and cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a
l 3/ t q t/1 .6 8 L Demi-Glace (page 293)

or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip

pings. Reduce the wine by half, about 3 minutes.
1 . Pound each piece of beef between sheets of parch
Return the short ribs to the pan along with any
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/6
juices they may have released. Add enough stock and
demi-glace to cover the short ribs by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
2 . Center 1 tbsp/15 mL of the stuffing on each piece,

top with a gherkin, roll the beef around the stuffing,
Cover the pot and transfer to a 350F/i77C oven.
and secure with toothpicks or string. Dredge the
Braise the short ribs for 45 minutes.
beef in the flour and shake off any excess.
6 . Add the bay leaves and thyme and degrease the liq
3 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over
uid if necessary. Finish braising the short ribs until
fork-tender, about 1 hour 30 minutes more.
the beef rolls carefully in the oil and sear until deep
7 . Transfer the short ribs to a hotel pan or other hold

ing container and moisten with some of the cooking
liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
ME A T S . POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer the

beef rolls to a hotel pan and reserve.
time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
Rouladen S tu ffin g
Makes 1 lb 8 oz/68o g
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, 1 minute

more. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped bacon
minute.
3 o z/8 5 g minced onions

pings. Reduce by half. Return the beef rolls to the
4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped lean ham
pan along with any juices they may have released.
2 o z/5 7 g ground beef
Add enough demi-glace to cover the rolls by
2 eggs, beaten
two-thirds.
3/2 o z/9 9 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed

Cover and braise in a 325F/i 63C oven until forktender, 1 to 1V2 hours, turning occasionally to keep
1 ts p /3 g salt
the beef evenly moistened.
7 . Transfer the beef rolls to a hotel pan, moisten with

some of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid over medium heat to
a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to
degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper and strain the sauce.
9 . Serve the rouladen immediately with the sauce, or

1 . Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat.

Add the bacon and render until foamy and browned.
Add the onions and saute until tender and translu
cent, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let the
4 . Add the onions to the oil and cook, stirring from
bacon and onions cool.
2 . Add the ham, beef, and eggs to the onion mixtureand mix until evenly combined.
3 . Add enough bread crumbs to tighten the stuffing;

the mixture should hold together but still be moist.
Season with parsley, salt, and pepper.
4 . The stuffing is ready to use now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
chapter 20 B R A I S I N G A N D STEWI NG
585
Yankee Pot Roast

Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the potatoes, turnips, carrots, and pearl onions

and finish braising until the beef is fork-tender and
the vegetables are fully cooked, 35 to 45 minutes
4 lb/1.81 kg beef shoulder clod, bottom

round, or eye round, trimmed
more.
7 . Transfer the beef and vegetables to a hotel pan or
4 ts p /1 2 g s a lt
other holding container and moisten with some of
the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the

sauce.
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid over medium heat until it
has a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato puree

l 3/ t q t/1 .6 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 262)
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
10 new potatoes (4 lb 4 o z/1.92 kg), halved
10 baby turnips (8 o z/2 2 7 g), halved
20 baby carrots (8 o z/2 2 7 g), peeled
60 pearl onions (1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g), blanched and peeled
1 . Season the beef with 2 tsp/6.50 g salt and V2 tsp/i g

pepper and tie it.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef
sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the beef to a
hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions to the

011 and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden
brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato puree and
cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any

pan drippings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the
beef to the pan along with any juices it may have
released. Add enough stock and demi-glace to come
about halfway up the beef.

Cover the pot and transfer it to a 3250 to 350^/163
to 177C oven. Braise the beef for 1V2 hours, turning
occasionally to keep it evenly moistened. Add the
sachet and degrease the liquid if necessary.
to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with the re

maining salt and pepper, if necessary.
9 . Remove the string from the beef, slice it into serv

ings, and serve immediately with the sauce and veg
etables, or hold hot for service.
Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from

time to time, until golden brown. Add the tomato
paste and cook until it turns a deeper color and
MARINADE
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r
gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
7 . Add the reserved marinade to the pan, stirring to

release any drippings. Add the marinade solids sa
chet to the pan. Reduce the marinade by half.
8 . Add the flour to the butter in a small saute pan
12 o z/3 4 0 g sliced onions
to make a roux. Cook the roux until golden, 4 to
8 black peppercorns
5 minutes. Cool slightly before whisking into the
10 juniper berries
reduced marinade.
2 bay leaves
2 cloves
9 . Whisk in the stock and bring to a simmer. Return

the beef to the pan along with any juices it may
have released. Cover the pan and simmer over low
heat until the beef is tender, 3V2 to 4V2 hours.
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless beef bottom round
1 0 . Transfer the beef to a hotel pan or other holding

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt, or as needed
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper, or as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
4 o z /1 1 3 g tomato paste
container and moisten with some of the cooking

1 1 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good fla

vor and consistency, 30 to 35 minutes. Skim thor
oughly to degrease the sauce.
1 2 . Add the gingersnaps and cook until the gingersnaps dissolve, about 10 minutes. Strain the sauce
3 tb sp /5 g clarified butter
through cheesecloth. Adjust seasoning with salt
3 o z/8 5 g gingersnaps, pulverized
Sauerbraten
1 3 . Remove the string from the beef, slice into serv

ings, and serve immediately with the sauce, or
1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients
in a medium nonreactive saucepan and bring to a

boil. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate.
2 . Season the beef with salt and pepper and tie it.
Place the beef in the marinade. Refrigerate for 3 to
5 days, turning it twice per day.
3 . Remove the meat from the marinade. Dry thor

oughly and season again with salt and pepper.
4 . Strain the marinade and reserve the liquid and

solids separately. Bring the strained marinade to a
simmer and skim off the scum. Place the solids in
cheesecloth and tie as for a sachet d epices.
5 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau or brasier over

the beef carefully in the oil and sear until deep
brown on all sides. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan
and reserve.
chapter 20 B R A I S I N G A N D S TE WI N G
587
Mole Negro
Makes 10 servings
3 . Dry roast the reserved chile seeds in a 6-in/i5-cm

cast-iron skillet over medium heat until black
ened, but not burned, 15 to 20 minutes. (This step
2 'A o z/6 4 g guajillo chiles, seeds and

veins removed, seeds reserved
should only be undertaken with good ventilation

or in an outdoor area.)
V/2 o z/4 3 g ancho chiles, seeds and

veins removed, seeds reserved
4 . Soak the seeds in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain
V 2 o z/1 4 g chipotle meco chiles, seeds

and veins removed, seeds reserved
5 . Dry roast the onions, tomatoes, and tomatillos in
and discard the water.

the large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Keep
1 lb 3 o z/5 39 g white onions

1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes
8 o z/2 2 7 g tomatillos
1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves, unpeeled
8
'A o z/2 3 4 g lard, or as needed
9 o z/2 5 5 g peeled, sliced ripe plantain
turning until blistered and soft, about 15 minutes.

Remove and reserve.
6 . Dry roast the garlic in the small cast-iron skillet
over medium heat until the papery skin begins to
brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and
discard the papery skin.
7 . Heat the lard in a 6-in/i5-cm saute pan over me
2 'A o z/6 4 g brioche
dium heat and fry the plantain until dark brown,
V2 o z/1 4 g whole almonds
about 5 minutes. Drain the plantains in a strainer
3/ * o z/21 g pecans
and reserve the strained lard.
V2 o z/1 4 g peanuts
2 tb s p /1 8 g raisins
8 . Repeat the same procedure with the following

ingredients, frying each separately until golden
brown and straining to remove as much lard as pos
2 o z/5 7 g sesame seeds
sible: brioche, almonds, pecans, peanuts, raisins,
1 ts p /2 g ground Mexican cinnamon
and sesame seeds.
5 black peppercorns
3 cloves
V 2 tsp /1 g Mexican oregano
V2 tsp /1 g dried marjoram
9 . Dry roast the cinnamon, peppercorns, cloves,

oregano, marjoram, and thyme in a small saute pan
over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.
10 . Puree the chiles and chile seeds in a blender with

about 16 fl oz/480 mL water, or as needed to form
V2 tsp /1 g dried thyme
a smooth paste. Pass the paste through a fine-mesh
3 avocado leaves
strainer and set aside.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Chicken Broth (page 334)

5 o z/1 42 g Mexican chocolate, broken into pieces
11 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the reserved lard in a ron

deau or brasier over medium heat. Reduce the heat
to medium-low and fry the chile puree until most
of the liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes. (You
Sugar, as needed
should be able to see the bottom of the pan when
4 whole chicken legs, poached
stirring.)
4 chicken breasts, skinless, boneless, poached
12 . Puree the roasted vegetables, spices, and all the

fried ingredients in a blender with water as needed
1 . Dry roast guajillos, anchos, and chipotles in a

i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over medium heat until
blackened but not burned.
2 . Soak the toasted chiles in hot water for 15 minutes.

Drain and discard the water.
to form a smooth puree. Pass the mixture through

a fine-mesh strainer and set aside.
1 3 . Add the pureed vegetable mixture to the chile pu

ree when you can see the bottom of the pan when
scraped and the oil rises to the top of the puree.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the mole
covers the back of a spoon and you can see the bot
tom of the pan when scraped, about 30 minutes.
M E A T S , P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
medium heat until fragrant. Add the whole leaves

to the mole.
1 5 . Add 16 fl oz/480 mL of the broth and keep stirring

on a low simmer for 1 hour.
1 6 . Add the chocolate and stir until dissolved. Season

with the salt and sugar.
1 7 . Continue simmering and stirring occasionally for

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g carrots, large dice
or batonnet, blanched
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g white turnips, large
dice or batonnet, blanched
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g rutabaga, large
dice or batonnet, blanched
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g green beans, cut into
l-in /3 -c m pieces, blanched
1 hour more. Add more water or broth if the mole

becomes too thick.
1 8 . Add the poached chicken to the mole and cook to

heat through, about 5 minutes.
1 9 . Adjust seasoning with salt, sugar, and chocolate.

Remove and discard the avocado leaves. The mole
is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled and
NOTES: Serve the mole negro w ith arroz bianco and warm
V 2 o z /1 4 g chopped parsley
1 . Season the beef with the salt and pepper.
2.. Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as
many sides as possible. This may need to be done in
batches. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions to the
corn tortillas.
oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until cara
Mole negro sauce w ill keep up to two weeks,

refrigerated, but should be reheated and diluted with
melized. Add the garlic and tomato paste, if using,
warm w ater every three days. Mole negro w ill keep fo r up

to two months frozen.
and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
1 4 . Toast the avocado leaves in a dry saute pan over
and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper color

pings. Reduce the wine by three-quarters. Return
the beef to the pan along with any juices it may have
Beef Stew
Makes
10
servings
released.
5 . Add the veal stock, espagnole sauce, sachet, and bou

quet garni. Bring to a gentle simmer over mediumlow heat. Cover the pot and stew the beef until ten
7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg boneless beef shank

or chuck, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
der, about 2 hours. Add more stock during cooking,

if necessary. Skim and degrease the stew as it cooks.
6 . Remove and discard the sachet and bouquet garni.
7 . At service, heat the butter and chicken stock in a
large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the car
rots, turnips, rutabaga, and green beans and toss to
coat until the stock has reduced and the vegetables

are hot. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
2 f I o z/6 0 mL tomato paste (optional)
8 . Serve the stew immediately with the vegetables or

hold hot for service. Garnish with the parsley.
40 fl o z/1.20 L Brown Veal Stock

2 'A q t/2 .4 0 L Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
2 o z/5 7 g butter
chapter 20 B R A I S I N G A N D STEWI NG
589
Braised Pork Rolls

and Sausage in Meat
Sauce with Rigatoni
2.
To make the filling, soak the bread in the milk un

til soft. Squeeze the bread to remove excess mois
ture. Combine the bread with the pine nuts, 1V2
oz/43 g of the parsley, the minced garlic, 1V2 oz/
43 g of the Parmesan, 1V2 oz/43 g of the pecorino,
and the raisins. Season with salt and pepper.
( B r o c i o l e
d i
M a i a l e
a l
3 . Cover each slice of pork with a small piece of pro

sciutto. Spread the filling over the slices, leaving
R a g u
Makes
10
R i g a t o n i )
servings
5 lb /2.27 kg pork butt, thinly sliced

9 o z/2 5 5 g crustless bread, dried,
cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
12 o z/3 6 0 mL milk
V / 2 o z/4 3 g toasted pine nuts
about V2 in/i cm at the edge. Lay a batonnet of

provolone over the filling on each piece.
4 . Roll the pork over the filling and tie into bundles
with twine. Season the outside of the rolls with salt
and pepper.
5 . Heat half of the oil in a rondeau or brasier over

the pork rolls carefully in the oil and sear until
deep brown on all sides. Transfer the pork rolls to a
hotel pan and reserve.
2 o z/5 7 g finely grated Parmesan
6 . Reduce the heat to low, add the crushed garlic to

the oil, and cook, stirring from time to time, until
2 o z/5 7 g finely grated pecorino

2 3/4 o z /7 8 g raisins
1 ts p /3 g salt, or as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g thinly sliced prosciutto
4 o z/1 1 3 g provolone, cut into thin batonnets
golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and discard

the garlic.

pings. Reduce until almost dry, about 8 minutes. Add
the tomatoes and bring the mixture to a simmer.
Return the pork rolls to the pan along with any juices
they may have released. Add the red pepper flakes
and bay leaves. Adjust seasoning with salt and
2 o z/5 7 g garlic, peeled and crushed
pepper.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL red wine

12 lb 8 o z/5 .6 7 kg peeled plum tomatoes,
passed through a food mill, with liquid
1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes
3 bay leaves
2 lb /9 0 7 g fennel sausage
1 lb /4 5 4 g rigatoni pasta, cooked
2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade

Cover and braise until fork-tender, about 1 hour,
turning occasionally to keep the pork evenly
moistened.
9 . Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a heavy saute

pan. Add the sausage and cook slowly over low
heat until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
1 0 . Add the sausage to the pork rolls after 1 hour and

cook for 30 minutes more.
1 1 . Allow the braised pork rolls, sausage, and sauce to

1 . Pound each portion of pork between sheets of
parchment paper or plastic wrap into a piece 8 by
rest for 30 minutes. Degrease, if necessary.

1 2 . Remove the strings from the pork rolls and serve
8 in/20 by 20 cm and Vs in/3 mm thick. Use the

rough side of the mallet to tenderize the meat. Re
and sauce, or hold everything hot for service. Gar
frigerate.
nish with the remaining Parmesan, pecorino, pars
immediately on a bed of rigatoni with the sausage
ley, and the basil.
590
M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Homemade Sauerkraut
Makes 10 servings
Makes about 2 gal/y.68 L
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g smoked pork loin

S a lt as needed
10 beef frankfurters
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g garlic sausage
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL rendered goose fat,
lard, or vegetable shortening
20 lb /9 .0 7 kg shredded green
cabbage, 2-in /5-cm lengths
8 o z /2 2 7 g salt
1 . Toss the cabbage with the salt until evenly

combined.
2 . Line a food-grade plastic bucket with cheesecloth.

Place the salted cabbage in the bucket and fold the
10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced onions
cheesecloth over the top. Press firmly to pack the
cabbage down and create an even surface.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Homemade
Sauerkraut (recipe follows)
1 Standard Sachet dEpices (page
241), plus 6 juniper berries
3 . Weight the top of the cabbage and cover with plastic

wrap. Label with the date. Let the sauerkraut fer
ment at room temperature for 10 days. Remove the
weights, cover well, and refrigerate.
4 . The sauerkraut is ready to serve now, or it may be
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g slab bacon, cut into

slices 1 by 2 in /3 by 5 cm
refrigerated for later service. Rinse the sauerkraut in
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg russet potatoes, tourne
salt before using.
Choucroute
cool running water to remove a little of the excess
1 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and tie, if nec
essary. Prick the frankfurters and sausages in 5 or 6
places to prevent them from bursting. Reserve in the
refrigerator.
2 . Heat the fat in a rondeau or brasier over medium

heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat them in
the fat without browning. Add the sauerkraut to the
onion mixture.
3 . Add the wine and sachet and stir. Bring the liquid up
to a simmer.
4 . Place the pork and bacon on top of the sauerkraut.

Cover the pan and braise in a 325F/i63C oven for
approximately 45 minutes. Add the frankfurters and
sausages to the pan, return the cover, and continue
to cook until the pork, frankfurters, and sausages
reach an internal temperature of i55F/68C, 15 to
20 minutes.
5 . Transfer the meat to a hotel pan and hold warm. Re

move and discard the sachet.
6 . Add the potatoes to the sauerkraut and simmer until
the potatoes are fully cooked, about 15 minutes. Ad
7 . Slice the pork, frankfurters, and sausages and serve

immediately on a bed of sauerkraut and potatoes, or
hold everything hot for service.
chapter 20 B R A I S I NG A N D S TE WI N G
593
Cassoulet
to become a nappe consistency, about 30 minutes.
Makes 12 servings
Reserve the sauce for later use.
4 . To make the meat stew, season the pork and lamb

BEAN STEW
with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a medium
rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight
starts to shimmer. Place the pork and lamb care

fully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as
1 lb /4 5 4 g slab bacon, cut into slices !/t in /6 mm thick
many sides as possible. Transfer the meat to a hotel
1 lb /4 5 4 g garlic sausage
pan and reserve.
2 medium onions
1 o z/2 8 g chopped garlic
5 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the mirepoix to

the oil and cook over medium heat, stirring from
time to time, until caramelized, about 11 minutes.

MEAT STEW
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless pork loin,
cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless lamb shoulder
or leg, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
Salt, as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g White Mirepoix (page 243)
'/ 2
ts p /1.50 g garlic paste
3 fl o z/9 0 mL white wine

1 minute.
drippings. Reduce the wine until almost dry. Re
turn the pork and lamb to the pan along with any
juices they may have released.
7 . Add the concasse, sachet depices, demi-glace,

and veal stock. Bring to a gentle simmer over
medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer it
to a 275F/i35C oven. Braise the meat until forktender, about 1 hour.
8 . Transfer the meats to a hotel pan or other holding
9 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good fla

vor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease
the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper,
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 2 9 3)
and strain. Pour the sauce over the meat and hold
hot for service.
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g Duck Confit (page 595)

12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs
1 . To make the bean stew, bring the chicken stock to a

boil in a large sauce pot and add the beans and ba
con. Return to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.
2.
Add the sausage, onions, garlic, and bouquet garni.

Return to a boil and cook until the sausage reaches
150F/66C and the bacon is fork-tender, about 30
minutes. Remove the sausage, bacon, onion, and
bouquet garni. Reserve the bacon and sausage.
3 . Add the salt and continue to cook the beans until

tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the beans and re
serve; reduce the stock by half, until it is beginning
594
Add the garlic paste and cook until aromatic, about
M E A T S , P OUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
1 0 . Peel the reserved sausage and slice it into slices %

in/2 cm thick. Cut the bacon in slices % in/2 cm
thick. Place the sausage, bacon, pork, and lamb in
a casserole.
1 1 . Cover the meat with half of the beans, then the

duck confit, and then the remaining beans.
12 . Pour the sauce from the beans over the mixture

and sprinkle with the bread crumbs and parsley.
Bake the cassoulet in a 300F/i49C oven until it is
heated through and a good crust has formed, about
1 hour.
1 3 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
V/ 2 o z/4 3 g jalapenos, seeded
Makes 4 lb/1.81 kg
2 3A o z/7 8 g roughly chopped cilantro
2 /2 oz/71 gsalt
3A o z/21 g salt
3A o z/2 1 g cilantro sprigs
V* tsp /1 g curing salt

V* ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper
1 . Place the beans in a small pot and cover with water.
2 juniper berries, crushed
Simmer over medium-low heat until completely ten
1 bay leaf, crushed
der, about 1 hour. Add more water throughout the
'/* ts p /0.75 g chopped garlic
cooking process, if necessary. Reserve the beans in

their cooking liquid.
12 whole duck legs (6 to 7 lb /2.72 to 3.18 kg)
2 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil while the beans

2 4 fl o z/7 2 0 mL rendered duck fat
are simmering. Blanch the pork for 6 minutes in

simmering water to remove any impurities. Skim the
1 . Mix together the 2 salts, pepper, juniper berries, bay

leaf, and garlic. Coat the duck legs with the season
ing mixture. Place the duck in a container with a
weighted lid and press the duck for 72 hours in the
refrigerator.
2 . Brush off the excess seasoning mixture or lightly rise

and blot dry. Place the duck in a rondeau or brasier
and cover it with the rendered duck fat. Stew the
meat in the fat over medium-low heat or covered in
a 300F/i49C oven until it is very tender, about 2
hours.
3 . Cool and store the duck legs in the cooking fat.

4 . When ready to use the confit, scrape away any ex
cess fat and broil the duck on a rack until the skin
is crisp, about 2 minutes, or heat in a 450F/232C
oven. Use as needed.
scum that forms on the surface; drain and rinse.
3 . Place the blanched pork in a large pot and add the

stock. Simmer over low heat until the pork is tender,
about 2 hours.
4 . Fire-roast the Anaheim chiles until the skin blackens
Duck Confit
and the flesh is tender, 6 to 8 minutes, turning fre

quently. Place the peppers in a bowl and cover with
plastic wrap to steam. When cool, peel and remove
the stems and seeds. Reserve.
5 . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until
the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the
onions and garlic to the pork.
6 . Add the potatoes and beans to the pork and simmer
until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
7 . Place the roasted peppers, jalapenos, and chopped

cilantro in a blender and puree until completely
smooth. Add some of the cooking liquid from the
New Mexican Green

Chile Stew
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g dried white beans, soaked overnight
stew to facilitate pureeing. Strain the mixture

through a large-holed strainer, if desired.
8 . Add the puree to the stew just before serving. Sim
mer for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the salt.
9 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish

with roughly chopped cilantro sprigs.
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg boneless pork shoulder, large dice

2
V 2 q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Anaheim chiles

12 o z/3 4 0 g smalt-dice onion
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes, medium dice
chapter 20 B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI N G
595
Pork Vindaloo
golden brown. Add 20 fl oz/6oo mL of the spice paste
Makes 20 servings
and cook until aromatic. Combine the tomato paste
SPICE PASTE
water has evaporated and the mixture is almost dry.
and vinegar and add to the pot. Cook until most of the
1 ts p /2 g cloves
1 ts p /2 g cardamom pods
3 tb sp /1 8 g cumin seeds
5 . Drain the marinade from the pork and add the pork
to the pot. Stir to cover the pork cubes with the spice
mixture.
Cover the pot and stew the pork until tender, stir
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced ginger
ring occasionally to make sure that the meat does
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground turmeric
not scorch or burn. Skim and degrease the stew as it
6 tb sp /9 0 mL coriander seeds
4'/2 ts p /9 g methi seeds
cooks.
7 . Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately

or hold hot for service.
14 o z/3 9 7 g dried red chiles

18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL palm vinegar
3'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL strained tamarind pulp
3 o z/8 5 g salt
Pork in a Green Curry

Sauce
Makes 10 servings
PORK MARINADE
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL palm vinegar
3'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
2 /2 q t/2 .4 0 L coconut milk

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Green Curry Paste (page 370)
2 tb sp /12 g Korean chili powder
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt,

1 tb sp /6 g ground turmeric
12 kaffir lime leaves, bruised

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce
15 lb/6.8 kg boneless pork butt,

cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
2 'A oz/71 g palm sugar
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL ghee or vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g Thai eggplants, quartered
4 medium onions, large dice
50 Thai basil leaves
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste
3 or 4 Thai chiles, cut in fine julienne
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL palm vinegar

1 . Skim the thick coconut cream from the top of the

coconut milk; place the cream in a large sauce pot
and cook, stirring constantly, until the cream begins
to separate.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the spice paste.

Cover and refrigerate for l day.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour

over the pork, toss well, cover, and refrigerate over
night.
3 . Puree the spice paste mixture in a blender to make a

coarse paste.
4 . Heat the ghee over medium-high heat in a medium

rondeau or brasier. Add the onions and saute until
2 . Stir in the curry paste and cook until aromatic, at

least 2 minutes. Add the pork and lime leaves and
mix well to coat the pork.
3 . Add the fish sauce, sugar, and remaining coconut milk.

Bring to a simmer; add the eggplant, and continue to
simmer until the pork is tender and cooked through.
4 . Remove the pan from the heat, add the basil, and
mix well.

with the chiles.
Veal Blanquette
Makes 10 servings
(S z e k e l y
G u l y a s )
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal breast, excess

fa t removed, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice slab bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice onions
V2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
4 ts p /8 g sweet paprika, or as needed
2 q t/1 .9 2 L White Veal Stock (page 263), White Beef

Stock (page 263), or Chicken Stock (page 263)
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg boneless pork leg or

shoulder, cut into 3/t-in /2 -c m cubes
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg drained and rinsed
Homemade Sauerkraut (page 593)
V /2 q t/1 .4 4 L White Beef Stock (page 263) or
Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed

8 o z/2 2 7 g Blond or White Roux (page 246)
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g white mushrooms, stewed
in butter and/or stock until tender
12 o z/3 4 0 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour, mixed

with water to make a slurry
2 egg yolks, beaten
10 o z/2 8 4 g slab bacon, rind on, cut into thick slices
1 . Render the diced bacon over medium heat in a large

pot until crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bacon
from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the onions to the fat and saute over medium-
1 . Season the veal with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the stock in a medium sauce pot to a simmer

and season with salt and pepper as needed. Place the
veal in a second pot and pour the heated stock over it.
high heat until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove
Bring to a simmer, stirring, and skim as necessary to
the pot from the heat.
remove impurities. Simmer for 1 hour.
3 . Add i tbsp/6 g of the paprika and the pork to the
3 . Add the bouquet garni. Continue to simmer until
pan, cover, and cook over low heat for 30 minutes,
the veal is tender to the bite, 30 to 45 minutes more.
stirring periodically. (Be careful not to cook out the
Transfer the veal from the liquid to a hotel pan and
moisture and burn the paprika.)
hold warm.
4 . Add the sauerkraut. Pour enough stock over the sau
4 . Add the roux to the simmering liquid, whisking to com
erkraut to cover. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot,
bine well, and return to a full boil. Reduce the heat and
and cook until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour.
simmer, stirring and skimming as necessary, until the
5 . Combine the flour slurry with 8 fl oz/240 mL of the

sour cream. Add the slurry mixture to the goulash
and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the sauce has
thickened sufficiently.
6 . To make coxcombs, make incisions (V2 to % in/i to
2 cm) into the rind of each slice of bacon at intervals
of V2 to % in/i to 2 cm. Saute the bacon until crisp
sauce is thickened and flavorful, 20 to 30 minutes.
5 . Return the veal and any juices it has released to the

sauce, along with the mushrooms and pearl onions.
Simmer until hot. (The stew may be cooled rapidly
and refrigerated for later service. Return cooled stew
to a simmer before adding the liaison.)
6 . Combine the egg yolks and cream to make a liaison.
and brown. Dip the tips of the coxcombs in the re
Temper the liaison with some of the simmering liquid
maining paprika and hold them warm until ready to
and add to the stew. Return the stew to a slow simmer
serve.
and cook until it is lightly thickened and has reached
7 . Serve the goulash immediately with the remaining

sour cream on top, or hold ungarnished and hot for
service. Garnish with the coxcombs.
Szekely Goulash
i65F/74C. (T oo much heat and/or cooking will co

agulate the egg yolks.) Add lemon juice and adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve the blanquette immediately or hold hot for later

service.
597
Braised Veal Breast

with Mushroom
Sausage
Makes 15 to 20 servings
8 . Remove the strings and slice the veal into servings.

service.
Mushroom Sausage
Makes 2 lb 12 o z /1.25 kg
1 boneless veal breast (about 8 lb /3.63 kg)

1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, or more as needed
SPICE MIXTURE
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or more as needed
2 ts p /6 g onion powder
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom Sausage (recipe follows)
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 fI o z/6 0 mL olive oil
3A ts p /4 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
'/ 2
ts p /3 g anise seed
]A ts p /0 .7 5 g garlic powder
1A ts p /0.50 g Spanish paprika
16 fl o z/4 80 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
'A ts p /0.50 g cayenne
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)

or Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g veal shank or lean pork, diced

6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked white rice
1 . Butterfly the veal breast and pound to an even thick
3'/2 o z/9 9 g minced onion
ness. Season with salt and pepper. Center the sau
3 fI o z/9 0 mL heavy cream
sage on the breast, roll the veal around the sausage

with the grain, and tie to secure.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
3 egg whites
7 o z/1 9 8 g white mushrooms, diced
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the veal

sides. Transfer the veal to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from

1 . Combine all the ingredients for the spice mixture.

Scatter over the meat and toss to coat evenly. Refrig
erate until needed.
2.. Grind the seasoned meat through a coarse die of
Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deep
a meat grinder. Fold the rice and onions into the
er color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
ground meat and grind a second time through a fine
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan

drippings. Reduce by half. Return the veal to the
pan along with any juices it may have released. Add
die. (Chill the mixture if its temperature rises above

40F/4C.)
3 . Working over an ice bath, add the cream and egg
enough stock and demi-glace or jus lie to cover the
whites and mix by hand until evenly blended. Fold
veal by two-thirds.
in the mushrooms.

Cover and braise in a 350F/i77C oven until forktender, 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, turning occa
sionally to keep the veal evenly moistened.
6 . Transfer the veal to a hotel pan, moisten with some
of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.
7 . Simmer the cooking liquid to a good flavor and consis

tency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper and strain the sauce.
4 . The sausage is ready to use now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
Makes 10 portions
6 . Skim thoroughly to degrease the stew. Remove and

discard the sachet. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper. Serve the stew in heated bowls garnished
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork shoulder,

3/ t o z/21 g Hungarian paprika
Salt, as needed
with sour cream.

Beef Goulash: Replace the pork w ith an equal amount of
boneless beef round or chuck.

3 o z/8 5 g vegetable oil or lard
3 lb /1.36 kg small-dice onion
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)
SACHET D'EPICES
1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest
1 ts p /2 g caraway seeds
V i tsp /1 g dried marjoram
Pork Goulash
V i tsp /1 g dried savory

V a
ts p /0 .5 0 g dried thyme
Va ts p /0 .5 0 g black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves
1 . Season the pork with the paprika, salt, and pepper.

2 . Heat the oil or lard in a rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the
pork carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown
on all sides. This may have to be done in batches.
Transfer the pork to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions to the pan and cook, stirring from


pings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the pork to
the pan along with any juices it may have released.
Add the jus lie and enough stock to completely cover
the pork.

Tie all the sachet ingredients in cheesecloth and add
the sachet. Cover the pot and continue to cook over
low heat, or transfer to a 35oF/i77C oven. Stew the
pork until the pork is fork-tender, about l hour 15
minutes.
c h a p te r 20 B R A IS IN G A N D STEW ING
599
Osso Buco Milanese w ith R isotto alia Milanese (page 783)
Makes 10 servings
6 . Transfer the veal shanks to a hotel pan or other hold

ing container and moisten with some of the cooking
liquid. Remove the string from around the shanks.
10 veal shank crosscuts, V / 2 in /4 cm

thick (about 12 o z/3 4 0 g each)
Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Simmer the remaining cooking liquid until it has
a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed
degrease. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
strain. Hold hot for service.
8 . Serve the veal shanks immediately with the sauce

and gremolata, or hold them hot for service.
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice Standard

Gremolata
Makes 7 oz/ig8 g

2 qt /1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
V2
o z/1 4 g orange zest, blanched, minced
V2
o z/1 4 g lemon zest, blanched, minced

1 o z/2 8 g Gremolata (recipe follows)
1 . Season the veal with salt and pepper and tie a string
around the shanks to keep them together.
V2
Osso Buco Milanese
o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Lightly dredge

the veal in flour and shake off the excess. Place the
1 . Spread the bread crumbs in an even, thin layer on a
shanks carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown
dry sheet pan and toast them in a 400F/204C oven
on all sides. Transfer the shanks to a hotel pan and
until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a
reserve.
bowl and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onions

from the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from
time to time, until golden brown. Add the carrots
and celery and cook until just beginning to soften.
Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook until the
tomato paste turns a deeper color and gives off a

pings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the shanks
2 . Add the orange and lemon zests, garlic, parsley, salt,

and pepper to the bread crumbs. Toss to combine.
3 . The gremolata is ready to use now, or may be refrig

NOTE: For a more traditional gremolata, combine V 2 oz/14 g
minced garlic, 3/4 oz/21 g grated lemon zest, I V 2 oz/
43 g chopped parsley, and, if desired, V 4 oz/7 g minced
anchovy fille ts.
to the pan along with any juices they may have re

leased. Add enough stock to cover the veal by
two-thirds.

Cover the pot and transfer it to a 325F/i63C oven.
Braise the veal shanks for 45 minutes. Add the bou
quet garni and degrease the liquid if necessary. Fin
ish braising the veal until fork-tender, 1 to 1V2 hours
more.
c h a p te r 20 B R A IS IN G A N D STEW ING
601
Polish S tu ffe d
Cabbage
Makes 10 servings
5 . For each cabbage roll, dampen a i2-in/30-cm square

of cheesecloth. Place the cheesecloth in an 8-fl
oz/240-mL round cup. Place 2 cabbage leaves in
the cup, overlapping the leaves so that there are no
open spaces. Place 4 oz/113 g of the meat mixture in
20 large savoy cabbage leaves (outer leaves)

FILLING
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless veal breast, diced
the center of the leaves and wrap them around to

enclose the filling. Twist the excess cheesecloth to
form each roll into a ball. Do not twist too hard or
the cabbage leaves will rip. Remove the cabbage rolls
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless pork shoulder, diced
from the cheesecloth each time they are formed and
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless beef bottom round, diced
gently place on a platter or in a hotel pan.
'/ 2
tb s p /1 5 g s a lt
'/ 2
6 . Place the mirepoix and bay leaf in a rondeau or

brasier. Place the cabbage rolls seam side down on
top of the mirepoix. Add enough hot stock to come
10 o z/2 8 4 g small-dice onion, sauteed and cooled
about halfway up the rolls and place the bacon on
top of the cabbage rolls, if desired. Bring the stock
3 eggs
to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover

the pot and transfer to a 325F/i63C oven. Braise

V* ts p /0.50 g freshly grated nutmeg, or as needed
the cabbage rolls to an internal temperature of

i6oF/7iC, 25 to 30 minutes.
7 . Serve the cabbage rolls immediately with 2% fl oz/75

6 o z/1 7 0 g thinly sliced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
mL tomato sauce per serving, or hold them hot for
1 bay leaf
service.
2'/2 q t/2 .4 0 L White Beef Stock

(page 263), or as needed, hot
NOTE: This dish d iffe rs from a typical braise because it is not

served w ith the reduced cooking liquid: it is served w ith a
6 o z/1 7 0 g slab bacon, cut into 10 slices (optional)

25 fl o z/7 5 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 2 9 5)
1 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook

the cabbage leaves until pliable, about 5 minutes.
Drain, rinse in cold water, and drain once more.
Remove the large vein from each cabbage leaf with a
paring knife. Reserve under refrigeration.
2 . To make the filling, season the veal, pork, and beef

with 1 tbsp/10 g salt and 1 tsp/2 g pepper.
3 . Grind the seasoned meat through a coarse die of a

meat grinder. Fold the onions into the ground meat
and grind a second time through the same die. (Chill
the mixture if its temperature rises above 40F/4C.)
4 . Working over an ice bath, add the cream and eggs

to the meat mixture in a medium bowl. Use a rub
ber spatula to mix until evenly blended. Fold in the
bread crumbs. Season with the remaining salt and
pepper and the nutmeg.
602
separate sauce.
Braised Lamb Shanks

Makes 10 servings
6 . Transfer the shanks to a hotel pan or other holding

Ten l-lb /4 5 4 -g lamb shanks
and consistency, about 3 minutes. Skim thoroughly
2 V i ts p /5 g ground black pepper
to degrease the sauce. If necessary, thicken the sauce

1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard
2 tb sp /3 0 mL tomato paste
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 264)
or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
8 o z/2 2 7 g Blond Roux (page 246), cooled
lightly with the arrowroot slurry. Adjust seasoning

with the remaining salt and pepper, and strain.
8 . Serve the shanks immediately with the sauce or hold
them hot for service.
NOTES: To prepare braised lamb shanks in advance and
finish them in batches or a la minute, cool the shanks
a fte r they have been removed from the braising liquid.
Foods th a t are braised on the bone have a wonderful
flavor and texture but may be a challenge fo r the guest

1 garlic head, halved and roasted (see page 634)
Arrowroot slurry (see page 248), as needed (optional)
1 . Season the shanks with l tbsp/io g salt and 1V2 tsp/3

g pepper.
to eat. It is sometimes appropriate to remove the bones

before service: Once the shanks are cool enough to
handle, pull out the shank bone. Transfer the boneless
shanks to a hotel pan. Cover and refrigerate the shanks.
Cool and store the sauce separately in a bain-marie or
other container.
To complete the shanks fo r service, ladle a small amount
o f a fla vo rfu l stock, remouillage, or broth on the shanks
and reheat them in the oven.
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the shanks

sides, about 15 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a ho
tel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions from the mirepoix to the pan and

cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown,
about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and
cook until they just begin to become tender. Add the
tomato paste and cook until the tomato paste turns
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1
minute.
Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan

drippings. Reduce the wine by half, 4 to 5 minutes.
Whisk in the stock and bring to a simmer. Whisk in
the cooled roux until combined and return the sauce
to a simmer. Return the shanks to the pan along with
any juices they may have released.

Cover the pot and transfer it to a 325F/i63C oven.
Braise the lamb shanks for 45 minutes. Add the
sachet and roasted garlic and degrease the liquid if
necessary. Finish braising the lamb until fork-tender,
about 2 hours more.
To complete the dish, reheat the amount o f sauce

needed in a saute pan, add the reheated shanks, simmer
briefly, and adjust seasoning.
Makes 12 servings
the sauce. If necessary, thicken with arrowroot slur

ry. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain.
Add cilantro to the entire batch or to individual serv
ings. Hold hot for service.
9. Remove the strings and slice the lamb into servings.

5 lb /2.27 kg boneless lamb leg
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt, or more as needed
service.
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or more as needed

2 lb 4 o z/1.25 kg Herbed Forcemeat
Stuffing (recipe follows)
Herbed Forcemeat Stuffing

Makes 2 lb 4 02/1.02 kg
2 o z/5 7 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g f ine-dice onion
3 fl o z/9 0 mL dry sherry
3 o z/8 5 g fine-dice celery
r /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Brown Lamb Stock (page

26 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
8 o z/2 2 7 g fine-dice mushrooms
2 bay leaves
Arrowroot slurry (see page 248), as needed
1. Butterfly the lamb and pound to an even thickness.

2 . Season with salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing on
the lamb, roll, and tie to secure.
3. Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice bread

6 o z/1 7 0 g ground beef
6 o z/1 7 0 g ground pork
6 o z/1 7 0 g ground veal
le g g
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
V2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade
V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g minced savory
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the lamb
V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g minced sage
Salt, as needed
sides. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan and reserve.
Portuguese S tu ffe d
Leg o f Lamb
4 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook, stirring from

Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deep
er color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
5. Add the sherry to the pan, stirring to release any pan

drippings. Reduce by half. Return the lamb to the
pan along with any juices it may have released. Add
enough stock to cover the lamb by two-thirds.
6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low
1 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and saute, stirring fre
quently, until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Add
the celery and mushrooms. Continue to cook until
tender. Transfer to a bowl and cool.
2 . Add the bread, ground meats, egg, herbs, salt, and

pepper and mix until combined. The stuffing is ready
to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
heat. Add the bay leaves, cover, and braise in a

325F/ i 63C oven until fork-tender, 1V2 to 2 hours,
turning occasionally to keep the lamb evenly
moistened.
7. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan, moisten with some

of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.
8 . Simmer the remaining cooking liquid to a good
flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease
605
Lamb Navarin
Makes 10 servings
pot and stew the lamb for about l hour. Add more
stock during cooking, if necessary. Skim and de
grease the stew as it cooks.
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless lamb shoulder, neck,

shank, or leg, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
Add the carrots, potatoes, celery, turnips, and mush
the bite and the vegetables are fully cooked. Remove
V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper
and discard the sachet. Add the concasse and sim
mer until the tomatoes are very hot, 10 minutes
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onion

1 tsp/B g minced garlic
V h q t/1 .4 4 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 2 6 4) or
Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293), Jus
d'Agneau Lie (page 293), Jus de Veau Lie (page
293), or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, tourne or oblique cut
8 o z/2 2 7 g potato, tourne or medium dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g celery, tourne or oblique cut
8 o z/2 2 7 g turnip, tourne or medium dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g white mushrooms, halved
1 . Season the lamb with salt and pepper.

2 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over me
dium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the
lamb carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown
on as many sides as possible. This may have to be
done in batches. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan
and reserve.
3 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions to the

oil and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to
time, until caramelized. Add the garlic and tomato
paste and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper
color and gives off a sweet aroma, about l minute.

pings. Reduce the wine by three-quarters. Return
the lamb to the pan along with any juices it may
have released.
5 . Add enough stock and demi-glace to cover the lamb,

along with the sachet. Bring to a gentle simmer over
medium-low heat to prevent scorching. Cover the
6o6
rooms. Continue to stew until the lamb is tender to
more. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.
or
Lamb Khorma
Makes 10 servings
MARINADE
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL plain yogurt
2 ts p /4 g ground cardamom
Add just enough cashew paste to thicken the sauce,

stirring to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom
1*
GO
l*
of the pan. Add water if the mixture becomes too
dry. Add the cream and adjust seasoning with salt
Orq
and pepper. Mix well and continue to cook until the

meat is tender.
Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish
with the cilantro leaves.
1 tb sp /9 g garlic paste
0 -
c/i
1 tb sp /9 g ginger paste
?d
LAMB
1*
5 lb /2.27 kg lamb shoulder, cut into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes
Grq
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL ghee or vegetable oil
i-s
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion
CD
n
i*
r
/2
a>
tb sp /9 g ground fennel seed
in

2 tb sp /1 2 g ground coriander
6 Thai chiles, minced
1 o z/2 8 g roughly chopped cilantro stems
1 lb /4 5 4 g cashews, soaked in hot
water, ground to a paste
V 2 o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro leaves
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Add
the lamb and marinate for 30 minutes in the

refrigerator.
Heat the ghee in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and
sweat until translucent.
3. Reduce the heat to low. In 1- to 2-minute intervals,

stir in the cumin, cardamom, fennel, pepper, ginger,
and coriander. When the spices are aromatic, add the
chiles and cilantro stems. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Drain the marinade from the the lamb and add the
lamb to the spices. Increase the heat and mix until
the lamb is evenly covered with the spices. Bring to
a simmer, cover the pan, and cook over medium-low
heat for 1 hour 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to
prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom of the
pan. Add water if the mixture becomes too dry.
c h a p te r 20 B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
607
Curried Goat with

Green Papaya Salad
Makes 20 servings
and the reduced cooking liquid. Bring to a simmer

and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. If desired,
add demi-glace.
8 . Just before service, stir in the tomatoes, half of the
green onions, and the lime juice. Serve immediately
About 2 5 lb / 1 1 .3 4 kg goat, cut into prim al sections
with the green papaya salsa and garnished with the
1 o z /2 8 g salt
remaining green onions, or hold hot for service.

8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Irish Stew
2 g a l/7 .6 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 2 6 3 )

8 thym e sprigs
Makes 10 servings
2 habaneros, seeded and minced
'/ 2
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg boneless lamb shoulder,

cut into 2 -in /5 -c m cubes
o z /1 4 g Curry Powder (page 3 6 9 )
D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 ), as needed (optional)

2 0 plum tom ato es, peeled, seeded, medium dice
/ 2
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g green onions, sliced
Vi in /1
ts p /1 g ground w hite pepper
cm thick
2 q t/1 .9 2 L W h ite B eef Stock (page 2 6 3 )
7 f l o z /2 1 0 mL lime juice
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 )
4 0 fl o z /1 .2 0 L Green Papaya Salad (page 9 2 1 )
1 lb /4 5 4 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1. Season the goat with salt and pepper.
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice potatoes
2 . Heat some of the oil in a brasier over medium-high
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice celery
heat until it starts to shimmer. Working in batches,
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrots
place the goat pieces carefully in the oil and sear
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice parsnips
until deep brown on all sides. Transfer to hotel pans
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice turnips
and reserve.
3. Once all the goat pieces have been seared, return

them to the brasier along with any juices they may
have released. Add the stock and thyme and adjust
1. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle
2 . Heat the stock in a medium stockpot to a simmer
simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and
and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
transfer it to a 350F/i77C oven. Braise the goat un
Place the lamb in a second medium pot and pour the
til very tender, at least 2 and up to 3 hours.
heated stock over it. Bring to a simmer, stirring from
4 . Transfer the goat to hotel pans or other holding con

tainers and moisten with some of the cooking liquid.
Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
5. Simmer the cooking liquid until it has reduced by

half. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper and strain. Hold hot
for service.
6 . Shred the goat meat into large pieces and discard the
bones.
7. Heat some of the oil in a large rondeau over mediumhigh heat. Add the habaneros and sweat until soft
and aromatic. Add the shredded goat, curry powder,
6o8
M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
time to time and skimming as necessary to remove

impurities. Simmer for 1 hour.
3. Add the bouquet garni, onions, potatoes, celery, car

rots, parsnips, and turnips. Continue to simmer until
the lamb and vegetables are tender to the bite, 30 to
45 minutes more.
4 . Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.

Garnish with the parsley.
Makes 10 servings
1. Season the lamb and chicken with salt and pepper.

2 . Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in the lower part of a
couscoussiere over medium-high heat until it starts
to shimmer. Place the lamb carefully in the oil and
sear until deep brown on as many sides as possible.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless lamb shoulder or

leg, cut into l- in /3 -c m cubes
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg bone-in, skinless chicken legs,
thighs, and drum sticks, separated
1 t b s p /lO g s a lt
V/ 2
t s p /3 g ground black pepper
3. Add the onions, garlic, ginger, and spices. Add

enough stock to cover the lamb. Bring the stock to a
simmer and cook for 45 minutes.
4. Add the carrots, turnips, and chicken to the stew and

return to a simmer over low heat. Skim and degrease
as necessary.
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL olive oil
5. Line the top of the couscoussiere with rinsed cheese
8 o z /2 2 7 g diced onion
cloth and add the couscous. Cover and continue to
3/ t o z /2 1 g minced garlic
cook for another 30 minutes.
1 tb s p /9 g g rated ginger
'/ 2
o z /1 4 g ground cumin
Vi o z /1 4
6 . Remove the top of the couscoussiere, adjust season

ing of the couscous with salt, and add the remaining
2 fl oz/6o mL of oil, working to break up any clumps.
g ground turm eric
1 ts p /2 g ground coriander
V 2 ts p /1 g ground nutm eg
2 bay leaves
Pinch saffro n threads
Pinch ground cloves
Hold hot while finishing the stew.
7. Add the zucchini and green peppers to the stew and
Couscous with Lamb

and Chicken Stew
cook for 4 minutes.

8 . Add the chickpeas, lima beans, tomatoes, artichoke
bottoms, and truffles, if using, and simmer the stew
until all of the ingredients are tender and very hot.
Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and spices, if nec
2Vi q t/2 .4 0
L Brown Lamb S to ck (page 2 6 4 )

or Brown Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 )
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrot
essary.
9 . Mound the couscous on a heated plate or platter and

place the stew in the center of the mound. Scatter
4 o z /1 13 g large-dice turnip
with the almonds, raisins, droplets of harissa, and
1 lb /4 5 4 g couscous
parsley. Serve immediately.
8 o z /2 2 7 g sm all-dice zucchini
8 o z /2 2 7 g sm all-dice green pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas
2 o z /5 7 g cooked lima beans
1 lb /4 5 4 g tom ato es, peeled and cut into wedges
6 o z /1 7 0 g raw artichoke bottom s, quartered
4 o z /1 1 3 g Arabic w hite tru ffle s , sliced (optional)
GARNISH
6 o z /1 7 0 g sliced almonds, to a s te d
6 o z /1 7 0 g raisins or currants
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Harissa (page 9 5 9 )
V2 o z /1 4
g chopped parsley
c h a p te r 2 0 B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
609
Preserved Lemons
Makes 10 servings
Makes 6 lemons
5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg each),

l
/2
6 lemons
5 o z /1 4 2 g s a lt
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 . Wash the lemons very well. Cut each one in 6
30 cipollini onions, blanched and peeled
wedges lengthwise and remove all the seeds. Place
' / 2-in /l-c m piece ginger, thinly sliced
the lemon wedges in a very clean jar. Add the salt

1 ts p /2 g cumin seeds, toasted and ground
and lemon juice and mix well. Add more lemon juice
if necessary to just cover the lemons.
2 . Cover with a lid and refrigerate. Stir the lemons
V* ts p /0 .2 0 g saffron
every day or two to help dissolve the salt. Allow the
8 to 10 f I o z/2 4 0 to 30 0 mL water or
Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
lemons to cure for at least 1 week.
50 picholine olives
3 . Rinse under cold water before using as needed. Keep

refrigerated.
2 Preserved Lemons (recipe follows), chopped
Chicken Tagine
2 fl o z/1 2 g chopped parsley
1 . Season the chicken with salt and pepper.
2-. Heat the oil in enough pans (tagine, rondeau, or

brasier) to hold the chicken over medium-high heat
until it shimmers. Place the chicken pieces carefully
in the oil and saute until they turn golden brown on
all sides. Transfer the chicken to a hotel pan and
reserve.
3 . Add the onions to the oil and cook, stirring from

Add the ginger and garlic and toast until aromatic, 1
minute more. Add the cumin and saffron and cook
until the mixture turns a deeper color and gives off a
4 . Return the chicken to the pan along with any juices it

may have released and add the water or stock. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle sim
mer over medium-low heat. Cover and braise until the
chicken is cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes, turning
the pieces occasionally to keep them evenly moist
ened. (Maintain only a small amount of water or stock
so the braising liquid will become concentrated.)
5 . In the last 15 minutes, add the olives, lemons, and

parsley. Simmer the mixture until the olives are ten
der and the aroma of the lemons is apparent.
6 . Remove the lemons and serve the tagine immedi
ately or hold hot for service.
chapter 20 B R A I S IN G A N D STEW IN G
611
Chicken Fricassee
8 . Return the chicken to the sauce, along with the

carrots and leeks. Simmer until the vegetables are
M akes 10 servings
tender, about 2 minutes.


with the chives.
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper
2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarif ied butter or vegetable oil
Veal Fricassee: S ubstitute an equal amount o f boneless

veal shoulder, breast, or leg meat fo r the chicken.
1 lb /4 5 4 g diced onions
2 bay leaves
1 tb sp /3 g thyme leaves
Chicken and Prawn

Ragout (Mar i
Muntanya)
M akes 10 servings

1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots, blanched

1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice leeks, white and

light green parts, blanched
V i o z/1 4 g chopped parsley or minced chives

1 . Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper.

2 . Heat the butter in a large rondeau or brasier over
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0
count), deveined, with shells on
medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic to
the pan and cook on medium-low heat, stirring
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g plum tomatoes, chopped
from time to time, until the onions are translucent,

about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the flour and cook, stirring frequently, for

about 5 minutes.

drippings. Add the stock, bay leaves, and thyme

2 tb s p /3 0 mL Pernod
PICADA
V A o z/3 5 g minced garlic
and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken pieces to

the pot.
5 . Cover the pot and cook the chicken over medium-
o z/1 4 g toasted French bread
2 V i o z/71 g Mexican chocolate
low heat, until fork-tender and cooked through, 30
1 o z/2 8 g blanched almonds, roasted
to 40 minutes. (Alternatively, the chicken can be
1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley
cooked in a 325F/i63C oven.)

6 . Transfer the chicken to a hotel pan or other hold
ing container and moisten with some of the cook
ing liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Add the cream to the remaining cooking liquid and

simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly, 5 to
7 minutes. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain.
612
'/ 2
Salt, as needed
1 . Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper.

2 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau or brasier over
medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the
they turn golden brown on all sides. Transfer the
Cover the pot and cook the chicken until fork-
chicken to a hotel pan and reserve.
tender and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes.
3 . In the same pan, saute the shrimp in their shells

until bright red, about 3 minutes. Transfer the
shrimp to another hotel pan and reserve.
4 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions and

tomatoes to the oil and cook, stirring from time
7 . Add the Pernod and continue simmering for 10

minutes more. Add the shrimp and finish cooking,
about 2 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper.
8 . To make the picada, crush or grind the garlic,
to time, until softened and slightly rust colored,
bread, chocolate, and almonds until smooth. Add
about 15 minutes.
the parsley and combine well. Season with salt and

drippings. Reduce by half. Return the chicken
pieces to the pan along with any juices they may
have released. Add enough stock to cover the
chicken.
pepper. Add enough oil to barely cover the picada

and work it into a thick paste.
9 . Stir the picada into the stew and cook for 2 min
utes more.
10 . Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.
chicken pieces carefully in the oil and saute until
vegetables, pc
legumes, and pa:
atoes, grains and

a and dumplings
From trimming and peeling to slicing and dicing, many vegetables and
mm
Mm
herbs need advance preparation before they are ready to serve or use
as an ingredient in a cooked dish. Various knife cuts are used to shape
vegetables and herbs. A thorough mastery of knife skills includes the
ability to prepare vegetables and herbs properly for cutting, to use a
variety of cutting tools, and t&make cuts that are u n i f o r m ^ ip r e c i s e
eg a r d le s s of the v e g e t a b le s
being p r ep a r e d
a lw a y s co nsider m akin g the cuts a unifo rm
S I Z E T O E N S U R E E V E N D O N E N E S S IN C O O K I N G . A E S T H E T I C A L L Y A P P E A L I N G P L A T E P R E S E N T A T I O N S A R E
A L S O V E R Y D E P E N D E N T ON TH E U S E OF P R O P E R L Y P R E P A R E D V E G E T A B L E S AN D ST AR CH E S . T h e BEST
D I S H E S B EG I N WI TH T H E B E S T - Q . U A L I T Y P R O D U C E .
cutting vegetables
and fresh herbs
Review the in fo rm a tio n ab ou t purchasing and handling produce fo u n d in C hapter 8 . Handle
fre s h produce c a re fu lly to m aintain its flavo r, color, and n u tritio n a l value th ro u g h o u t all
stages o f p re p a ra tio n and cooking. One key to p re servin g q u a lity in produce is to pe rfo rm
all c u ttin g tasks as close as possible to cooking tim e.
A n o th e r im p o rta n t fa c to r is th e a b ility to select the rig h t to o l fo r the job, and to keep
th a t to o l in p ro p e r w o rkin g con dition. A stee l should be on hand whenever you are c u ttin g
any fo o d to p e rio d ic a lly hone your k n ife blade as you w ork. For a review o f basic k n ife han
dling, see pages 4 4 to 45.
T H E B A S IC K N IF E C U T S I N C L U D E :
C hopping
M in cing
C h iffo n a d e (shre dd ing )
Julienne and b a to n n e t
D icing
Paysanne (fe rm ie re )
Diam ond (lozenge)
Rondelle, bias, oblique, o r ro ll cuts
Your aim, whenever you cu t som ething, should always be to c u t th e fo o d in to pieces o f

u n ifo rm shape and size. Unevenly cu t ite m s give an im pression o f carelessness th a t can
spo il th e dish's look. An even m ore im p o rta n t c o n sid e ra tio n is th a t fo o d s o f d iffe re n t sizes
and shapes w o n 't cook evenly.
When precise accurate kn ife cuts, such as julienne, ba tonn et, brunoise, and dices, are
required, it is im p o rta n t to cut w ith a "slice" technique. The k n ife should be held firm ly w ith
a balanced g rip and th e w ris t should be stable. The slicin g m otio n should move e ith e r f o r
w ards o r backw ards. Do n o t press th e k n ife s tra ig h t down o r g rip th e k n ife w ith a loose
w ris t, as th is could re s u lt in less accurate cuts.
618
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Peeling vegetables
All fresh produce, even if it will be peeled before cutting, should be washed well.
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Washing removes surface dirt and bacteria and other contaminants that might
otherwise come in contact with cut surfaces by way of the knife or peeler. For the
best shelf life, wash vegetables as close to preparation time as possible.
Not all vegetables require peeling before cooking, but when it is neces
sary, use a tool that will remove the skin evenly and neatly without taking
off too much of the edible flesh. To peel a thick-skinned vegetable such as
winter squash, use a chefs knife. Chefs knives are better for larger vegetables
or those with very tough rinds, such as celeriac or winter squash. Remove
fibrous or tough skins from broccoli and similar vegetables by using a paring
knife or swivel-bladed peeler to trim away the skin; often it can be pulled
away after the initial cut.
Some vegetables and fruits have relatively thin skins or peels. Examples
include carrots, parsnips, asparagus, apples, pears, and potatoes. Peel these
with a swivel-bladed peeler. These peelers can be used in both directions, so
that the skin or peel is removed on both the downward and upward strokes.
A paring knife can be used in place of a peeler in some instances. Hold the
blades edge at a 20-degree angle to the vegetables surface and shave the
blade just under the surface to remove a thin layer.
1 .
Peel a th ic k -s k in n e d ve g e ta b le such as w in te r squash w ith a c h e fs
knife.
2.
Peel veg etab le s w ith re la tiv e ly th in skins or peels, such as asparagus,
ca rro ts, o r parsnips, w ith a s w ive l-b la d e d peeler.
ch a p te r 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
619
Chopping
Coarse chopping is generally used for mirepoix or similar flavoring ingredi
ents that are to be strained out of the dish and discarded. Chopping is often
done with a straight, downward cutting motion. It is also appropriate when
cutting vegetables that will be pureed. Trim the root and stem ends and peel
the vegetables if necessary. Slice or chop through the vegetables at nearly
regular intervals until the cuts are relatively uniform. This need not be a per
fectly neat cut, but all the pieces should be roughly the same size.
1.
Rinse and dry herbs well, and the n s trip th e leaves fro m th e stem s.
G ather th e herbs in to a tig h t ball using you r g u id in g hand to hold the m in

place, then slice th ro u g h th e m to fo rm coarse b u t u n ifo rm pieces.
2 .
Once th e herbs are coa rsely chopped, use th e fin g e rtip s o f you r g uiding
hand to hold th e tip o f th e c h e fs k n ife in c o n ta c t w ith th e c u ttin g board. Keep

ing th e tip o f th e blade ag ainst th e c u ttin g board, low er th e k n ife f ir m ly and
rapidly, re p e a te d ly c u ttin g th ro u g h th e herbs.
620
Chiffonade/shredding
Mincing is a very fine cut that is suitable for many vegetables and herbs. On
The chiffonade cut is used for leafy
ions, garlic, and shallots are often minced.
vegetables and herbs. The result is
1.
or bed.
Mincing
a fine shred, often used as a garnish

Finely mince th e herbs by co n tin u in g to cut u n til th e desired fine ne ss is
For Belgian endive, remove the
atta in e d .
2.
leaves from the core and stack them.

Green onions and chives are m inced d iffe re n tly . R a th er than c u ttin g
re p e a te d ly, slice th e m ve ry thin . M in cing an onion is shown on page 631.
Make parallel lengthwise cuts to pro

duce a shred. For greens with large
leaves, such as romaine, roll individ
ual leaves into cylinders before cut
ting crosswise. Stack smaller leaves,
such as basil, one on top of the other,
then roll them into cylinders and cut.
Use a chefs knife to make very fine,
parallel cuts to produce fine shreds.
Chapter 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
621
STANDARD VEGETABLE CUTS

The standard vegetable cuts are illustrated in the following charts. The dimensions indi
cated are guidelines and may be modified as necessary. Determine the size of the cut by
the requirements of the recipe or menu item, the nature of the vegetable being cut, the
desired cooking time, and the appearance desired.
622
F IN E J U L IE N N E
J U L IE N N E /A L L U M E T T E
' / i 6 x ' / i 6 x 1 to 2 in
Va x Va x 1 to 2 in
1.50 mm x 1.50 mm x 3 to 5 cm
3 mm x 3 mm x 3 to 5 cm
BATONNET
F IN E B R U N O IS E
'/ x V* x 2 to 21/2 in
' / i 6 x ! / i6 x Vi6 in
6 mm x 6 mm x 5 to 6 cm
1 . 5 0 x 1 . 5 0 x 1 . 5 0 mm
side; this makes cutting safer, since the vegetable will not roll or slip as it is cut. To pro
duce very regular and precise cuts, such as julienne or dice, cut a slice from each side and
both ends of the vegetable to make an even rectangular solid or cube.
B R U N O IS E
S M A L L D IC E
V b x V b xV a ln
]A x ]A x !A in
3x3x3m m
6 x 6 x 6 mm
M E D IU M D IC E
L A R G E D IC E
V2 x V2 x V2 in
3/4 x 3/4 x 3A in
1 .2 5 x 1 .2 5 x 1 .2 5 cm
2 x 2 x 2 cm
C hapter 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
Before chopping or cutting vegetables, trim them to remove roots, cores, stems, ribs
and/or seeds. Round vegetables may also be trimmed by taking a thin slice away from one
623
AD D ITION AL VEGETABLE CUTS

The vegetables shown here have been cut
to precise standards for a more upscale
presentation. They may be cut so that the
natural shape of the vegetable is visible in
each slice.
Tourne cuts (see page 630) may be the
classic football shape shown here or modi
fied to suit different vegetable types.
PAYSANNE
V 2 x V 2 x Vs in
1 cm x 1cm x 3 mm
F E R M IE R E
LO ZENGE
Cut le ng th w ise , the n slice to desired
D iam ond shape: V 2 x V 2 x Ve in
th ickn e ss: Vs to V 2 in /3 mm x 1 cm
1 cm x 1 cm x 3 mm
RONDELLE
TO UR N E
Cut to desired thickn ess: Vs to V 2 in
A p p ro x im a te ly 2 in /5 cm long w ith 7 faces
3 mm to 1 cm
Julienne and batonnet are long rectangular cuts. Related cuts are the standard
Dicing produces cube shapes. Dif
pommes frites and pommes pont neuf cuts (both are names for French fries) and
ferent preparations require different
the allumette (matchstick) cut. The difference between these cuts is the final size.
Trim and square off the vegetable by cutting a slice to make four straight
Julienne and batonnet
sizes of dice. The names given to the

different-size dice are fine brunoise/
sides. Cut both ends to even the block off. These initial slices make it easier
brunoise, and small, medium, and
to produce even cuts. The trimmings can be used for stocks, soups, purees, or
large dice. The charts on pages 622
other preparations where the shape is not important.
to 623 list the dimensions of these

cuts. To begin, trim and square the
1 .
A fte r squ aring o f f th e veg etab le , slice th e ve g e ta b le le ng th w ise , m ak
vegetable as for julienne or batonnet.
ing p a rallel cuts o f even thickn ess.

1 .
2.
S tack th e cut slices, aligning th e edges, and make even p a rallel cuts o f the
same thickn ess fo r a ba tonn et. Thinner slices in bo th d ire c tio n s make julienne.
G ather th e ju lie n n e or b a to n n e t
pieces and cu t th ro u g h them cross

w ise a t evenly spaced in te rvals.
c h a p te r 21 M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
625
Paysanne/fermiere
Cuts produced in the paysanne (peas
Diamond/lozenge
Rounds/rondelles
The diamond, or lozenge, cut is
Rounds or rondelles are simple to

cut. Just cut a cylindrical vegetable,
ant) and fermiere (farmer) style are
similar to the paysanne. Instead of
generally used in dishes intended to
cutting batonnets, thinly slice the
such as a carrot or cucumber, cross
have a rustic or home-style appeal.
vegetable, then cut into strips of the
wise. Score the vegetable with a
When used for traditional regional spe
appropriate width.
channel knife to produce flower
cialties, they may be cut in such a way
Trim and thinly slice the veg
shapes, if desired. Trim and peel the
that the shape of the vegetables curved
etable. Cut the slices on the bias into
vegetable if necessary. Make parallel
or uneven edges is still apparent in the
strips Vs in-/3 mm-thick of the cor
slicing cuts through the vegetable at
finished cut. However, it is important
rect width. Make an initial bias cut
even intervals. Guide the vegetable
to cut them all to the same thickness so
to begin. This will leave some trim
as you are cutting by pushing on the
that they will cook evenly.
(reserve the trim for use in prepa
end of it with your thumb. The basic
Square off the vegetable first
rations that do not require a neat,
round shape can be varied by cutting
and make large batonnet, % in/2 cm
decorative cut). Continue to make
the vegetable on the bias to produce
thick. Make even parallel cuts cross
bias cuts, parallel to the first one.
an elongated or oval disk or by slic
wise at %-in/3-mm intervals to pro
ing it in half lengthwise first to cre
duce the paysanne cut. For the more
ate half-moons.
rustic fermiere presentation, cut the

vegetable into halves, quarters, or
eighths, depending on its size. The
pieces should be roughly similar in
dimension to a batonnet. Make
even thin crosswise cuts at roughly
Vs-in^-mm intervals.
626
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Oblique or roll
This cut is often used to prepare
This cut is used primarily with long,
vegetables for stir-fries and other
cylindrical vegetables such as pars
Asian-style dishes because it exposes
nips or carrots. Place the peeled
a greater surface area and shortens
vegetable on a cutting board. Make
cooking time. To make a diagonal
a diagonal cut to remove the stem
cut, place the peeled or trimmed veg
end. Hold the knife in the same posi
etable on the work surface. Hold the
tion and roll the vegetable a quarter
blade so that it cuts through the food
turn (90 degrees). Slice through it on
on an angle. The wider the angle, the
the same diagonal, forming a piece
more elongated the cut surface will
with two angled edges. Be sure to
be. Continue making parallel cuts,
decrease the angle of the diagonal
adjusting the angle of the blade so
as the vegetable gets larger in diam
that all the pieces are approximately
eter. This will ensure uniform cuts
the same size.
that will cook evenly. Repeat until
Diagonal/bias
the entire vegetable has been cut.

Alternatively, cut the vegetable using
a half turn (180) to obtain the cut
pictured above.
c h a p te r 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
627
Waff le/gauf rette

Use a mandoline to make waffle (gaufrette) cuts. Potatoes, sweet potatoes,
beets, and other large, relatively solid foods can be made into this cut.
1 .
The blades o f th e m andoline are s e t so th a t th e f ir s t pass o f th e veg
e ta b le doesnt a c tu a lly cu t away a slice b u t only makes grooves.
2.
Turn th e p o ta to 45 degrees and make th e second pass to cre a te w a ffle
cu t p o ta to e s. Run th e ve g e ta b le th e e n tire length o f th e m andoline. Turn the

veg etab le 45 degrees and re p e a t th e e n tire stro ke . Repeat th is procedure,
tu rn in g th e veg etab le 45 degrees on each pass over the m andoline.
628
1 .
Hold th e m ushroom betw een th e th u m b and fin g e rs o f you r g u id ing
hand. Remove th e o u te r layer o f th e m ushroom cap by peeling th e m ushroom .
decorative cuts using special techniques
Fluting takes some practice to master, but it makes a very attractive garnish.
It is customarily used on mushrooms.
S ta rt a t th e unde rside o f th e cap, go in g to w a rd th e center.
2.
Place th e blade o f a parin g k n ife at a ve ry s lig h t angle ag ainst th e m ush
room cap center. R est th e th u m b o f your c u ttin g hand on th e m ushroom and

use it to brace th e kn ife . R o ta te th e k n ife to w a rd th e base o f th e cap w hile
tu rn in g the m ushroom in th e o p p o s ite d ire ctio n .
3.
Turn th e m ushroom s lig h tly and re p e a t th e c u ttin g s tep s. C ontinue u n til
th e e n tire cap is flu te d . Finish th e flu te d m ushroom by lig h tly pre ssin g th e tip
o f you r pa rin g k n ife in to th e to p o f th e m ushroom to cre a te a s ta r p a tte rn . Pull
away the trim m in g s. Trim aw ay th e stem .
c h a p te r 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
629
Cutting turned/tourne vegetables
Fanning
Turning vegetables ( toumer in French) requires a series of cuts that simulta
The fan cut uses one basic, easy-to-
neously trim and shape the vegetable. The shape is similar to a small barrel
master cut to produce complicated-
or football. Peel the vegetable, if desired, and cut it into pieces of manageable
looking garnishes. It is used on both
size. Cut large round or oval vegetables, such as beets and potatoes, into quar
raw and cooked foods such as pick
ters, sixths, or eighths (depending on the size), to form pieces slightly longer
les, strawberries, peach halves, avo
than 2 in/5 cm - Cut cylindrical vegetables, such as carrots, into 2-in/5-cm

pieces.
cados, zucchini, and other somewhat
1.
1.
Use a parin g o r to u rn e k n ife to cu t th e ve g e ta b le s in to manageable
pliable vegetables and fruits.

Leaving th e stem end in ta ct,
pieces b e fo re to u rn e in g them . Carve th e pieces in to b a rre l o r fo o tb a ll
make a series o f p a rallel le ng th w ise
shapes. Try to make as fe w cuts as po ssib le to cre a te th e 7 sides so th a t
slices. Spread th e cu t f r u it or v eg
th e face s o f th e to u rn e rem ain d is tin c t. The face s should be sm ooth, evenly
e ta b le in to a fan shape.
spaced, and ta p e re d so th a t b o th ends are n a rrow e r than th e center.
630
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Onions of all types taste best when cut as close as possible to the time to be
1 .
used. The longer cut onions are stored, the more flavor and overall quality
lay it cu t side down on a c u ttin g
To dice o r m ince an onion half,
they lose. Once cut, onions develop a strong sulfurous odor that can spoil a
board. Use a chef's k n ife to make
dishs aroma and appeal.
a series o f evenly spaced, pa rallel

le ng th w ise cuts w ith th e tip o f the
1 .
When pe eling an onion, ta ke o f f as fe w layers as possible. Here, the
ch e f is using a parin g k n ife to rem ove th e o u te r layers o f skin.
k n ife , leaving th e ro o t end in ta ct.

C uts spaced lA in/6 mm a p a rt w ill
Use a paring k nife to cut th in slices away fro m the stem and ro o t ends o f
make sm all dice; cuts spaced V 2 in/1
the bulb. Catch the peel between the pad o f your thum b and the f la t side o f your
cm o r 3A in /2 cm a p a rt w ill produce
knife blade and pull away the peel. Trim away any brown spo ts fro m underlying
m edium or large dice. Cuts spaced
layers if necessary b e fore c u ttin g the vegetable to the desired size or shape.
Vb in - /3 mm a p a rt w ill produce fin e
Leave th e onion w hole a fte r p e eling i f you need slices o r rings. To cu t onion
preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Dicing/mincing onions
Onions
ro
c/3
m ince.
rings fro m a w hole onion, be sure to hold th e onion secu rely w ith you r g u id ing
hand; th e rounded surface o f th e onion can slip on th e c u ttin g board.
C ut th e onion in ha lf, m aking a cu t th a t runs fro m th e ro o t end to th e stem
end, in o rd e r to cu t ju lie n n e o r dice. The ro o t end, tho ugh trim m e d , is s till in
ta c t. This helps to hold th e onion layers to g e th e r as it is sliced o r diced. To cut
ju lie n n e fro m a halved onion, make a V -shaped notch cu t on e ith e r side o f the
ro o t end.
An a lte rn a tiv e p e eling m etho d is e sp ecially good f o r c u ttin g and using the
onion rig h t away. Halve th e onion le n g th w ise th ro u g h th e ro o t b e fo re trim m in g
and peeling. Trim th e ends, le avin g th e ro o t end in ta c t if th e onion w ill be diced,
and pull away th e skin fro m each half.
Chapter 21 M I 5 E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
631
Dicing/mincing onions, continued
2.
W hile g e n tly holding th e v e rtic a l cuts to g e th e r, make tw o or th re e h o ri
zo n ta l cuts p a ra lle l to th e w o rk surface fro m th e stem end to w a rd th e ro o t

end, b u t do n o t cu t all th e w ay throu gh . H olding th e previous cuts to g e th e r w ill
produce a m ore u n ifo rm mince.
3.
To co m p le te th e dice, make even, crossw ise cuts w o rkin g fro m th e stem
end up to th e ro o t end, c u ttin g th ro u g h all layers o f the onion. Reserve any us

able trim f o r m ire poix.
Some che fs p re fe r to cu t onions by m aking a series o f evenly spaced cuts
th a t fo llo w th e n a tural curve o f th e onion. Remove the ro o t fro m th e onion be
fo re m aking even cuts th a t fo llo w th e n a tural curve o f th e onion.
632
purchased but is best avoided unless high-volume cooking calls for its conve
nience.
Mashed or minced garlic is called for in many preparations, so it is important
to have enough prepared to last through a service period. To prevent bacterial
growth, store uncooked minced garlic covered in oil in the refrigerator and use
within 24 hours. It is always best, however, to cut garlic just prior to use.
To separate the garlic cloves, wrap an entire head of garlic in a side towel
and press down on the top. The cloves will break cleanly away from the root
preparation techniques for specific vegetables
Depending on how it is cut, garlic may take on different flavors and like
onions, once cut, will become stronger in flavor. Pre-chopped garlic can be
end, and the towel keeps the papery skin from flying around the work area.
1.
A t som e tim e s o f th e year and under ce rta in sto ra g e c o n d itio n s, the
g a rlic may begin to sp ro u t. S p lit th e clove in h a lf and rem ove th e s p ro u t fo r

th e b e st flavo r.
Lay th e skinned cloves on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e f la t o f th e k n ife blade
over them . Using a m o tio n s im ila r to th a t f o r cracking th e skin, h it th e blade
fir m ly and fo rc e fu lly w ith a f is t o r th e heel o f you r hand to crush th e cloves.
An a lte rn a tiv e to sm ashing th e clove o f g a rlic in o rd e r to rem ove th e peel is
to peel th e g a rlic clove w ith a pa rin g k n ife . To loosen th e skin fro m each clove,
place it on th e c u ttin g board, place th e f la t side o f the k n ife blade on to p , and
h it th e blade using a f is t o r th e heel o f your hand. Peel o f f th e skin and rem ove
th e ro o t end and any brow n spo ts.
Slice th e peeled g a rlic cloves b e fo re chopping them .
c h a p te r 21 M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
633
Garlic, continued
3.
Cut th e g a rlic slices to cre a te rou gh ly chopped garlic.
4.
M ince g a rlic cloves like you w ould m ince an onion. M ince o r chop the
Roasting garlic
The flavor of garlic becomes rich,
sweet, and smoky after roasting.
cloves fa irly fine , using a ro ckin g m o tio n as f o r herbs.

To mash th e ga rlic, hold th e k n ife ne arly f la t ag ainst th e c u ttin g board and
use th e c u ttin g edge to mash th e g a rlic ag ainst th e board. Repeat th is ste p
Roasted garlic can be found as a com

ponent of vegetable or potato purees,
marinades, glazes, and vinaigrettes, as
well as a spread for grilled bread.
u n til th e g a rlic is mashed to a paste. If desired, sp rin kle th e g a rlic w ith s a lt
Place unpeeled heads of garlic
b e fo re m ashing. The s a lt a cts as an abrasive, speeding th e m ashing process
in a small pan or on a sizzler platter.
and p re ve n tin g th e g a rlic fro m s tic k in g to th e k n ife blade. A lte rn a tiv e ly , crush
To produce a drier texture, place the
and grind s a lt-s p rin k le d g a rlic in to a pa ste using a m o rta r and pestle.
garlic on a bed of salt. You may wrap

whole heads of garlic in foil. Cut
off the tip of each head beforehand
to make it easier to squeeze out the
roasted garlic. Or peel the cloves first,
lightly oil them, and roast in a parch
ment paper envelope.
1.
R oast in a 3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C oven
until the garlic cloves are quite soft,

usually 30 to 45 m inutes. A nyjuices
th a t run fro m the garlic w ill brown. The
aroma should be sw eet and pleasing
w ith no hints o f harshness or sulfur.
S eparate the cloves and squeeze the
roasted g arlic fro m the skins or pass
the unpeeled cloves through a foo d mill.
634
the biggest concerns when working with leeks is removing every trace of dirt.
Careful rinsing is essential.
1 .
To clean leeks, rinse o f f all th e surface d irt, paying special a tte n tio n
to th e ro o ts, w here d ir t clings. Lay th e leek on th e c u ttin g board, and use a

c h e fs k n ife to trim aw ay th e heavy, dark green poi tio n o f th e leaves. By c u t
tin g on an angle, you can avoid losing th e te n d e r lig h t green p o rtio n o f the
leek. Reserve th e da rk green p o rtio n o f th e leek to make b o uq ue t g a rni o r fo r
o th e r uses.
2.
A leek grows in layers, trapping grit and sand between each layer, and one of
Trim away m o st o f th e ro o t end. Cut th e leek le ng th w ise in to halves,
th ird s , o r q u a rte rs. Rinse th e leek under running w a te r to rem ove any rem a in
ing g r it o r sand.
Cut th e leek in to th e de sire d shape. Leeks may be le ft in halves o r q u a rte rs
w ith th e stem end s t ill in ta c t f o r braising. O r th e y may be c u t in to slices,
c h iffo n a d e , dice, o r paysanne cuts.
635
Tomatoes
Fresh and canned tomatoes are used in a number of dishes. They can be cut
with various knives as well as sliced using an electric slicer.
Tomatoes have a skin that clings tightly to the flesh, and the interior
contains pockets of seeds and juice. When the tomato is peeled, seeded, and
chopped, it is known as tomato concasse. The techniques for seeding and
chopping or dicing can be used for both fresh and canned tomatoes. Whole or
sliced tomatoes can be roasted to intensify their flavor and change their tex
ture.
preparing tomato concasse

Tomato concasse is required for preparation or finishing many different sauces
and dishes. Only make enough in advance to last through a single service
period; once peeled and chopped, tomatoes begin to lose flavor and texture.
Tomatoes can be cut into different sizes, depending on their use. Fine con
casse should be used for garnishing, while rough concasse can be used for all
other purposes, such as an ingredient in a dish or sauce.
1.
Score an X in to the b o tto m o f each to m a to , b u t be sure not to cut to o
deeply. Remove the stem core.
2.
B ring a p o t o f w a te r to a ro llin g boil. Have an ice bath ready to shock the
to m a to e s. Drop th e to m a to e s in to th e w a te r. Blanch the to m a to e s in b o ilin g

w a te r f o r 10 to 15 seconds, de pe nd ing on th e ir ripeness, the n rem ove the m and
shock the m in ice w ater.
636
Precision cuts
3.
Use a pa rin g k n ife to peel aw ay th e skin. If th e to m a to was p ro p e rly
blanched, none o f th e fle s h w ill be rem oved fro m th e to m a to e s.
4.
To prepare tomatoes so that they can

be cut into precise julienne, dice, loz
enge, or similar cuts, trim the tomato
Halve th e to m a to crossw ise a t its w id e s t p o in t. (Cut plum to m a to e s
flesh so that it has an even thickness.
le ng th w ise to seed the m m ore easily.) G en tly squeeze o u t th e seeds. For a
Halve or quarter the peeled tomato,
m ore pre cise cut, q u a rte r th e to m a to e s and cu t aw ay th e seeds. For a rough
cutting from stem to blossom end.
chop, sim p ly squeeze o u t th e seeds. The seeds and ju ice s o f th e to m a to may
Using the tip of a knife, cut away any
be pre serve d f o r o th e r p re p a ra tio n s.
seeds and membranes. This tech
5.
nique is sometimes referred to as fil

The d e fin itio n o f a concasse calls fo r a rough chop, b u t the peeled and
seeded to m a to e s can be cut as desired.
leting. (It is also used for peppers and
chiles.) Cut the flesh into julienne or

other shapes, as desired.
Tomatoes prepared in this way
may be used as garnish for hot items
such as soups or sauces. They may
also be used in cold preparations
such as salads or in the production
of hors doeuvre, where they can be
used as a base or finely chopped for a
colorful and flavorful garnish. Peeled
and cut tomatoes will have a ten
dency to weep, so when using them
for cold preparations, be sure to cut
and assemble as close to service as
possible.
C hapter 21 M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
637
Fresh peppers and chiles

Peppers and chiles are used in dishes from cuisines as diverse as those of Cen
tral and South America, many Asian countries, Spain, and Hungary. As the
interest in peppers and chiles has grown, many special varieties have become
available, both fresh and dried. For more information about working with
dried chiles, see page 645. Whenever working with very hot chiles, wear plas
tic gloves to protect your skin from the irritating oils they contain.
cutting and seeding fresh peppers and chiles

Cut through the pepper from top to bottom. Continue to cut it into quarters,
especially if the pepper is large.
Use the tip of a paring knife to cut away the stem and seeds. This cut re
moves the least amount of usable pepper. Chiles retain a good deal of their heat
in the seeds, ribs, and blossom ends. The degree of heat can be controlled by
adjusting how much, if any, of these parts of the chile is added to a dish.
1.
You can make ve ry fine , even ju lie n n e or dice by fille tin g the p e p p e r
th a t is, rem o ving th e seeds and rib s b e fo re c u ttin g it. Cut away th e to p and
b o tto m o f th e pe pp er to cre a te an even rectan gle. Roll th e pepper away fro m
the paring k n ife as you cu t th e seeds and rib s away to cre a te a long rectan gle
o f pepper th a t can be cu t as desired.
2.
Peel away th e skin, if desired, and then cu t th e fle s h in to neat ju lie n n e or
dice. For a m ore precise p re p a ra tio n , use a c h e fs k n ife to cu t away a th in layer

o f th e in te rio r fle s h to make a co m p le te ly f la t surface. This w ill cre a te m ore
square, u n ifo rm ju lie n n e o r dice. Reserve any ed ib le scraps to use in purees or
coulis, or to fla v o r b ro th s and stew s.
638
1 .
Peppers and chiles are o fte n charred in a flam e , b ro ile d o r g rille d , or
ro a ste d in a v e ry h o t oven to produce a deep, rich fla v o r as w e ll as to make

the pe pp er ea sie r to peel. To ro a s t and peel sm all q u a n titie s o f fre s h peppers
or chiles, hold th e p e pp er over a m edium fla m e o f a gas b u rne r w ith to n g s or
a kitch e n fo rk , o r place th e p e pp er on a g rill. Turn th e p e pp er and ro a s t it u n til
Peppers and chiles are often peeled before they are used in a dish, to improve
the dishs flavor or texture, or both.
the surface is evenly charred. Place th e pepper in a p la s tic o r pa pe r bag or a

covered bow l and le t stan d f o r a t le a st 30 m in utes to stea m th e skin loose.
2.
C/3
When th e p e pp er is cool enough to handle, use a pa rin g k n ife to rem ove
th e charred skin. Have a bow l o f w a te r nearby to rinse th e charred skin o f f o f

your k n ife as you w o rk. To rem ove any b its o f charred skin th a t rem ain on the
pepper, rub lig h tly w ith a to w e l.
La rge r q u a n titie s o f p eppers o r chiles are o fte n ro a ste d in a h o t oven or
under a b ro ile r, ra th e r than charred in d iv id u a lly over a flam e . Halve th e pe p
pers or chiles and rem ove th e stem s, seeds, and rib s if desired. (The peppers
or chiles may also be le ft whole.) Place cu t side down on an oiled she et pan.
Place th e pan in a ve ry h o t oven or under a bro ile r. R oast o r b ro il u n til evenly
charred. Remove fro m th e oven or b ro ile r and cover im m e d ia te ly, using an
in ve rte d she et pan. L e t stan d f o r 30 m inutes to steam th e peppers and make
th e skin ea sie r to rem ove.
c h a p te r 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HER BS
639
Mushrooms
Chestnuts
Clean mushrooms just before preparing them by rinsing quickly in cool wa
To peel chestnuts using a paring
ter, only long enough to remove any dirt. Do not allow the mushrooms to
knife or chestnut knife, cut an X in
soak; they absorb liquids quickly, and an excess of moisture will cause them
the flat side of each nut just through
to deteriorate rapidly. (Some people clean mushrooms by wiping them with
the outer skin. Boil or roast the
a soft cloth or brushing them with a soft-bristled brush; this is not always
chestnuts just until the skin begins
practical in a professional kitchen.) Let the mushrooms drain and dry well on
to pull away. Work in small batches,
layers of paper towels before slicing or mincing.
keeping the chestnuts warm, pull
Cook mushrooms as soon as possible after they are cut for the best flavor,
and cut away the tough outer skin
color, and consistency in the finished dish. Avoid cutting more than needed at
and peel off the brown inner skin.
any given time.
Cooked chestnuts can be left whole,
Some mushrooms must have the stems removed. Shiitakes, for example,
pureed, sweetened, or glazed.
have very tough, woody stems; cut them away from the caps and save for
stock or to flavor sauces. The stems of other mushrooms, such as white mush
rooms, morels, and cepes, can usually be left intact, although a slice should be
cut away from the stem end to trim dried or fibrous portions.
If possible, rest the mushroom on a flat side to provide more stability
as you slice through it. Holding the mushroom cap with your guiding hand,
make slices through the cap and stem (if it has not been trimmed off). To cut
a large amount efficiently, slice the mushrooms so that the slices are layered.
Then cut across the slices at the desired thickness to create julienne strips.
Turn the julienne strips so that they are parallel to the edge of the work sur
face. Make crosswise cuts to mince the mushrooms for use in duxelles or
other applications.
640
Peapods
Whole ears of corn can be boiled
Snow peas and sugar snap peas both
or steamed after the husk has been
have edible pods and are typically
peeled off and the fine threads,
eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried.
known as silk, that cling to the corn
They should be carefully selected for
have been pulled away. Once husked,
freshness as their quality and flavor
cook the corn as soon as possible.
deteriorate quickly. Their peak sea
Remove the husk and silk. To

cut the kernels away from the cob,
son is early spring to summer.

Snow peas and sugar snap peas,
hold the ear upright and cut down
depending upon the variety, often
ward as close to the cob as possible.
have a rather tough string that runs
To milk the corn, lay the ear down
along one seam. Remove this string
on a cutting board and lightly score
before cooking the peas. Snap off the
each row of kernels. Use the back of
stem end, using either a paring knife
a knife, a spoon, or a butter curler to
or your fingers, and pull. The string
scrape out the flesh and milk.
will come away easily.
Corn
641
Asparagus
Young asparagus may need no further preparation than a simple trim to re
move the very ends of the stalk, and a quick rinse. More mature asparagus
may need to have the stalk trimmed a little more and partially peeled to re
move the outer skin, which can be tough and stringy.
As asparagus matures, the stalk becomes tough. To remove the woody
portion, bend the stalk gently until it snaps. Use a special asparagus peeler or
a swivel-bladed peeler to peel the remaining stalk partway up; this enhances
palatability and also makes it easier to cook the asparagus evenly.
Asparagus may be tied into loose portion-size bundles to make it easier to re
move them from boiling water when they are blanched or boiled. Dont tie them
too tightly or make the bundles more than a few inches in diameter. Otherwise
the asparagus in the middle will not cook properly.
642
V E G E T A B L E S . POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Artichoke leaves have sharp barbs, like thorns. The edible meat of the arti
choke is found at the base of each leaf, which grows from a stem, as well as at
the fleshy base of the vegetable, known as the heart. Artichokes have a purple,
feathery centerthe chokethat is inedible in mature artichokes. The choke
in baby artichokes may be tender enough to eat.
To prepare whole artichokes, first cut away part or all of the stem. The
amount of stem removed is determined by how the artichoke is to be present
ed, as well as by how tender or tough the stem is. Cutting away the stem even
Artichokes
with the bottom of the artichoke makes a flat surface, allowing the artichoke
to sit flat on the plate. If the artichoke is to be halved or quartered, some of
the stem may be left intact. Peel the stem with a paring knife. Cut off the up
per part of the top of the artichoke. Snip the barbs from each leaf with kitchen
scissors. Rub the cut surfaces with lemon juice to prevent browning, or hold
the trimmed artichoke in acidulated water (a mixture of lemon juice and wa
ter) or a blanc. To remove the choke, spread open the leaves of the artichoke.
The choke can now be scooped out with a spoon.
1 .
To pre pa re a rtic h o k e b o tto m s , make a cu t th ro u g h th e a rtic h o k e a t its
w id e s t p o in t, ju s t above th e a rtic h o k e b o tto m .
2.
Use a pa rin g k n ife to trim th e to u g h o u te r leaves away fro m th e a r t i
choke b o tto m .
3.
Scoop o u t th e c e n te r o f th e a rtic h o k e b o tto m , known as th e choke. Hold
trim m e d a rtich o ke b o tto m s in a cid u la te w a te r to pre ve n t brow ning.
c h a p te r 21 M I 5 E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
643
Avocados
Avocados have a rough, thick skin and a large pit. Avocados, like potatoes,
bananas, and artichokes, turn brown when they are exposed to air. To prevent
browning, cut avocados as close to the time of service as possible. Citrus juice
both brightens the flavor of this rich but relatively bland food and prevents
the flesh from turning brown.
To remove the skin and pit from an avocado, hold it securely but gently
with the fingertips of your guiding hand. Insert a knife blade into the bottom of
the avocado. Turn the avocado against the knife blade to make a cut completely
around it. The cut should pierce the skin and cut through the flesh up to the pit.
Peel the avocado and cut it lengthwise into wedges or slices. To dice the
avocado, cut crosswise through the wedges. The flesh is soft enough to puree
easily when properly ripened.
1.
T w ist the tw o halves o f a sliced avocado away fro m each o th e r and pull
g e n tly to separate them .
2.
Since it can be d iff ic u lt to pick o u t th e p it w ith you r fin g e rtip s w ith o u t
m angling th e fle sh , scoop it o u t w ith a spoon, rem oving as little fle s h as pos
sible, o r c a re fu lly chop th e heel o f th e k n ife in to th e p it then t w is t and pull the
p it fre e fro m th e fle sh . To rem ove the p it fro m th e k n ife safe ly, use th e edge o f
th e c u ttin g board or th e lip o f a c o n ta in e r to pry the p it free.
3.
To peel th e avocado, catch th e skin betw een th e ball o f your th u m b and
the f la t side o f a k n ife blade and pull it fre e fro m th e flesh.
644
Dried veg etab le s and fr u its have alw ays been used in many cuisines. D rying makes fo o d s
su ita b le f o r lo n g -te rm storag e and co n ce n tra te s th e ir fla vo rs.
Even tod ay, some veg etab le s and fr u its are to o perishable to tra n s p o rt g re a t d ista n c
es, o r th e y have a very s h o rt season. The re s t o f th e year, th e y can be fo u n d only in a p re
served fo rm . The fla v o r o f d ried chiles, m ushroom s, to m a to e s, and fr u its such as apples,
cherries, and raisins are special even though th o se same in g re d ie n ts may be purchased
fre s h th ro u g h o u t th e year.
To g e t th e m o st fro m these ingre die nts, recipes may o fte n call f o r the m to be rehy
dra te d o r "p lum p ed by soaking the m in a liquid. To reh ydra te dried veg etab le s and fru its ,
check f ir s t f o r in sect in fe s ta tio n and rem ove any obvious d e bris or seriou sly blem ished or
m oldy specim ens.
Place th e v eg etab le o r f r u it in a bow l o r o th e r c o n ta in e r and add enough bo ilin g or very
ho t liquid (water, w ine, f r u it juice, or b ro th ) to cover. L e t th e ve g e ta b le o r f r u it stee p in the
h o t w a te r f o r several m inutes, u n til s o ft and plum ped. Pour o f f th e liquid, rese rving it, if
desired, f o r use in an o th e r pre pa ration . If necessary, s tra in it th ro u g h a c o ffe e f ilt e r or
cheesecloth to rem ove any debris.
O th er dried fr u its and veg etab le s may be to a s te d o r charred in a fla m e or on a g ridd le
o r heated pan to s o fte n them . Some m ay be to a s te d and then rehydrated.
Toast dried chiles in the same m anner as d ried spices, nuts, and seeds, by to s s in g them
in a d ry s k ille t over m edium heat. A lte rn a tiv e ly , pass them re p e a te d ly th ro u g h a fla m e u n til
to a s te d and so fte n e d . Break or c u t open the chile and shake o u t th e seeds. Scrape the pulp
and seeds fro m th e skin or use th e w hole chile, according to the recipe. A fte r to a stin g ,
reh ydra te th e chile in a h o t liquid.
general guidelines for vegetable and

herb mise en place
One o f th e ways to d istin g u ish a novice fro m a seasoned che f is th e way each one approach
es th e ta s k o f c u ttin g vegetables and herbs. The goal is con sisten cy and speed. W ith o u t
pra ctice, it is im p ossib le to achieve either.
To b e tte r approach veg etab le m ise en place, s ta r t by fig u rin g o u t the p ro p e r tim in g
o f th e w ork. M ake a lis t and p rio ritiz e ta sks so th a t fo o d s th a t can be prepared w ell in ad
vance are done fir s t, w h ile tho se th a t lose fla v o r or co lo r when cu t to o ea rly are done as
close to service or cooking tim e as possible. M aking such a lis t involves know ledge o f the
menu, o f tim e e stim a te s f o r th e meal pe rio ds ( if known) f o r which th e veg etab le s are being
cut, and o f stan dard kitche n p ra ctice s f o r holding c u t vegetables.
Think o u t the w o rk ca re fu lly b e fo re beginning. A ssem ble all th e to o ls needed, including
general guidelines for vegetable and herb mise en place
working with dried vegetables and fruits
con tain ers to hold unprepped vegetables, prepped vegetables, usable trim , and trim th a t
is n o t useful. A ssem ble th e peelers, knives, and steel. Hone the knives (including th e paring
kn ife ) at th e s ta rt and durin g th e work.
Wash veg etab le s and herbs b e fo re doing any in itia l trim w o rk to avoid g e ttin g th e w ork
surface unnecessarily d irty . Spin d ry le a fy greens and herbs b e fo re you cu t them .
Chapter 21 M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
645
Arrange th e w o rk in a logical flo w , so th a t th in g s are p o sitio n e d w ith in easy reach. This

makes the w o rk easier, fa ste r, less w a ste fu l, and m ore co m fo rta b le .
Keep all to o ls and your w o rk surface clean and fre e fro m debris. Remove trim as it ac
cum ulates, b e fo re it has a chance to fa ll on the flo o r. W ipe down kn ife blades and c u ttin g
boards betw een phases o f w ork. S anitize all c u ttin g and w o rk surfaces when you sw itch
fro m one fo o d ite m to another. Wash your hands, too, and rem em ber to use gloves if the
vegetables w ill n o t be cooked b e fo re being served to guests.
In a d d itio n to the techniques and p re p a ra tio n s already discussed, veg etab le cookery
o fte n requires know ledge o f o th e r techniques, m any o f which can be fo u n d elsewhere in
th is book:
P re p a rin g le a fy g reens (see pages 1 4 8 to 159)
T oastin g spices, nuts, and seeds (see page 3 6 2 )
Z e s tin g c itru s fr u its and c u ttin g suprem es (see page 8 9 1 )
P re p a rin g f r u its (see pages 8 9 0 to 8 9 3 )
M arinad es (see pages 3 7 2 to 3 7 4)
S ta n d a rd b re ad ing p ro ce d u re (see page 3 6 5 )
Vegetables are far more important in contemporary menu planning than simply
as a side-dish afterthought. They can be the focal part of a meatless entree. They
can be selected and prepared to enhance another dish. Orthey can be served as
an appetjzer or hois doeuvre. Buying vegetables that are at the peak of quality,
observing proper storage and handling standards, and giving meticulous attention
to the cooking process are vital to producing an appealing vegetable dish.
oiling
is a
fu n d a m e n t a l
v e g e t a b le
cooking
techn iq u e
that
can
result
in
w ide
range
O F T E X T U R E S A N D F L A V O R S , D E P E N D I N G U P O N H O W T H E T E C H N I Q U E IS A P P L I E D . V E G E T A B L E S M A Y
BE B L A N C H E D , P A R C O O K E D OR P A R B O I L E D , OR F U L L Y C O O K E D . B O I L E D V E G E T A B L E S C A N BE S E R V E D
C H I L L E D , A D D E D TO A N O T H E R D I S H S U C H A S A S T E W TO F I N I S H C O O K I N G , G L A Z E D O R F I N I S H E D IN
B U T T E R O R O I L , O R U S E D TO M A K E A P U R E E . A L M O S T A L L V E G E T A B L E S C A N B E B O I L E D , A S L O N G A S T H E
A P P R O P R I A T E M O D I F I C A T I O N S A R E M A D E TO T H E B O I L I N G P R O C E S S .
boiling
Prepare vegetables f o r b o ilin g by p ro p e rly rin sing o r scrub bing the m to rem ove all traces
o f d irt. They may be trim m e d and cu t b e fo re cooking, o r th e y may be cooked whole, a cco rd
ing to th e vegetable's nature as w e ll as th e in te nd ed p re se n ta tio n . If th e veg etab le has a
ten den cy to tu rn brown once it is cut and exposed to the air (as a rtich o ke s do), t r y to cut it
im m e d ia te ly b e fo re cooking, or hold th e veg etab le subm erged in plain o r a cidu lated w ater.
However, exte nde d storag e in w ater, once veg etab le s are peeled or cut, can rob the m o f
flavo r, te x tu re , and n u tritio n a l value. V egetables boile d w hole o r cu t should be o f a sim ilar
size, shape, and d ia m e te r to assure even cooking.
W a te r is th e m o st com m only used liquid f o r boiling, though o th e r liquids may be used
depending on th e desired fla v o r o f th e fin ish e d dish. A dd in g s a lt and o th e r seasonings to
th e liquid enhances th e fla v o r o f a vegetable. A d d itio n a l fla v o r and in te re s t can be p ro
vided w ith fin is h in g and ga rnishin g ingredients.
D elicate green veg etab le s m ust be cooked in sm all batches in heavily sa lte d w a te r th a t
should never sto p boiling, and the y m ust always be shocked in ice w a te r a fte r cooking. If
cooking a large volum e o f green vegetables, cook the m in batches so th a t the w a te r te m
p e rature has tim e to recover and is alw ays boiling. A dd in g s a lt to th e w a te r f o r p arcooking
green veg etab le s bo osts fla v o r and helps th e w a te r come up to te m p e ra tu re fa s te r and
recover fa ste r. When shocking green vegetables, shock the m in ice w a te r. D ilute th e s a lt in
a sm all am ount o f w arm o r h o t w a te r and the n add to ice w ater.
S elect the p o t size in re la tio n to the am ount o f fo o d being prepared. It should hold
th e vegetables, liquid, and a ro m a tics c o m fo rta b ly , w ith enough room f o r th e liquid to ex
pand as it heats. Leave enough headspace fo r th e surface to be skim m ed if necessary. A
tig h t - f it t in g lid is h e lp fu l f o r bring ing th e liquid up to te m p e ra tu re , b u t it is n o t essential.
Some green vegetables, f o r exam ple, w ill disco lo r i f le ft covered durin g th e w hole cooking
process. Leaving a lid on th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process may sho rte n cooking tim e , b u t be
sure to check th e veg etab le s p e rio d ic a lly to avoid ove rcoo king the m or d isco lo ra tio n .
O ther useful equipm ent includes colanders or strainers fo r draining; equipm ent fo r cooling
vegetables cooked in advance; holding containers to keep the vegetables warm; and spoons,
ladles, or skim m ers fo r cooking, tasting, and serving.
Season th e cooking liquid and b ring it to the p ro p e r coo kin g te m p e ra tu re b e fo re add
ing the prepared vegetables. The am ount o f liquid req uire d varies, depending on th e typ e
and a m ount o f veg etab le and th e length o f cooking tim e . In general, th e re should be enough
w a te r to hold th e veg etab le s c o m fo rta b ly , w ith o u t excessive crow ding. Add s a lt and any
o th e r seasonings o r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e liquid.
648
basic formula
Boiled Green
Vegetables
Boiled Root
Vegetables
Boiled Red or White

Vegetables
(10 servings)
(10 servings)
(10 servings)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
vegetables (weighed after
trimming, peeling, and cutting

trimming, peeling, and cutting)

Enough salted cold water to

generously cover the vegetables
in the pot and allow them to
move freely (about 6:1 water
to vegetable). Use 2 oz/57 g
salt per gallon of water.
Enough salted cold water

to generously cover the
vegetables in the pot
GTQ
Enough cold water to hold the

vegetables without crowding
4 fl oz/120 mL vinegar, lemon juice,
or other acid per gallon of water
method
at-a-glance
1. Bring the liquid to a fu ll boil
and add the seasonings and
aromatics.
Determining doneness
2. Add the vegetable.
is a crucial aspect of all vegetable prep
arations, but it is especially important in boiling, the most basic technique:
3. Cook it to the desired
BLANCHED: Im m e r s e v e g e ta b le s b r ie f ly , u s u a lly 3 0 s e c o n d s t o 1 m in u t e , d e
doneness.
p e n d in g o n t y p e o f v e g e ta b le a n d r ip e n e s s , in b o ilin g w a t e r t o m a k e t h e s k in
e a s y t o r e m o v e , t o e lim in a t e o r r e d u c e s t r o n g o d o rs o r f la v o r s , t o s e t t h e
4 . Drain the vegetable.
c o lo r f o r s e r v in g c o ld , a n d / o r as t h e f i r s t s t e p in o t h e r c o o k in g t e c h n iq u e s .
5. Serve the vegetable, or
PARCOOKED/PARBOILED: V e g e ta b le s a re c o o k e d t o p a r t ia l d o n e n e s s t o p r e p a re
refresh and hold it.
th e m f o r f in is h in g b y g r illin g , s a u te in g , p a n fr y in g , d e e p fr y in g , o r s te w in g .
TEN D ER-CRISP OR AL DENTE: C o o k v e g e ta b le s u n t il t h e y c an b e b i t t e n in t o e a s
ily b u t s t i l l o f f e r a s lig h t r e s is t a n c e a n d s e n s e o f t e x t u r e . (T h e t e r m al dente,
w h ic h is It a li a n f o r " t o t h e to o th ," is m o r e a c c u r a t e ly u s e d t o d e s c rib e t h e
d e s ir e d d o n e n e s s o f p a s ta r a t h e r th a n v e g e ta b le s .)
c h a p te r 22 C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
649
1. bring the water to a rolling boii

b e fo re adding m o st veg etab le s, exce pt dense or sta rch y
ro o t vegetables. (These vegetables, such as tu rn ip s and
celeriac, are s ta rte d in cold w a te r th a t is then bro u g h t to
a b o il fo r even cooking.) For th e b e st co lo r in red cabbage,
beets, and w h ite veg etab le s, cover th e p o t a fte r placing
the m in th e b o ilin g w a te r. This helps re ta in acids th a t set
th e co lo r in th e se veg etab le s. Cover the p o t when b o iling
orange and ye llo w v e g e ta b le s such as c a rro ts and squash,
if desired. Green veg etab le s such as bro ccoli, asparagus,
or green beans, should be bo ile d uncovered to produce a
good green c o lo r in th e cooked vegetable.
Once th e veg etab le s are added to the pot, leave the
heat on high to b rin g th e w a te r back to a rapid bo il and
con tinu e to cook th e veg etab le s to th e a p p ro p ria te done
ness.
V egetables should be rem oved fro m th e w a te r e ith e r
by dra in ing o f f th e coo kin g liq u id th ro u g h a colander or
sieve or by liftin g th e veg etab le s fro m th e w a te r w ith a
s p id e r or skim m er.
2. finish and season
th e veg etab le s now
(see Finishing and G lazing V egetables by Sauteing, page

670). They may also be ra p id ly chille d to sto p any fu rth e r,
to cool th e m f o r service in a cold dish, o r to hold the m fo r
la te r service.
The pro ced ure fo r coo lin g vegetables, som etim es
re fe rre d to as shocking or refresh in g, is as fo llo w s : A fte r
you drain th e veg etab le s, subm erge the m in very cold or
ice w a te r long enough to cool the m u n til th e y are th o r
oughly chilled. As soon as th e y are cool, drain the m again,
place the m in storag e con tain ers, cover, and re frig e ra te .
V egetables should n o t be allow ed to s it in w a te r fo r ex
te n d e d p e rio d s o f tim e.
S ta rch y v eg etab le s w ith sta b le pigm ents, such as
tu rn ip s, parsnips, o r ca rro ts , are be st cooled by sp re a d
ing the m o u t in to a single layer and placin g in a cool spo t
b e fo re re frig e ra tin g . Taste th e vegetable. It should have
a good, fre s h fla vo r. M o s t boile d veg etab le s served hot
should be tender, y e t s till hold th e ir o rig in a l shape. The
c o lo r should be appealing. Green veg etab le s should be
a deep or b rig h t green w ith no tra ce s o f gray o r yellow.
W h ite veg etab le s should be w h ite or ivory. Red ve g e ta
bles should be deeper in color; some ta ke on a purple or
m agenta color, b u t n o t blue or green.
Taste and eva lu ate veg etab le s if the y are held during
service, and replace th e m w ith a fre s h batch as necessary
du rin g service.
650
t e a m e d v e g e t a b l e s a r e c o o k e d in a v a p o r b a t h to p r o d u c e d i s h e s t h a t h a v e p u r e
f l a v o r s
. S
team in g
VEGETABLES.
A ny
sh a r e s
m a n y
sim ilarities
w ith
boiling
a s
cooking
V E G E T A B L E T H A T C A N BE B O I L E D C A N A L S O BE S T E A M E D .
It
,u
ndiluted
tech n iq u e
for
W O U L D BE H A R D F OR
M O S T P E O P L E TO T E L L S T E A M E D A N D B O I L E D C A R R O T S A P A R T I F T H E Y W E R E P R E S E N T E D S I D E B Y S I D E .
B ut T H E R E
ARE SOME DIFFERENCES.
steaming
Since stea m ing cooks throu gh d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith steam ra th e r than liquid, some steam ed
veg etab le s may be less soggy than th e same veg etab le boiled. S team ed vegetables are
ge ne rally considered to have b e tte r n u tritio n a l value, as well.
Prepare vegetables fo r stea m ing as you w ould fo r boiling. A ll veg etab le s should be
p ro p e rly rinsed or scrubbed, peeled, trim m e d , and cu t to shape as close to th e tim e o f se r
vice as reasonable.
A ltho ug h th e m o st com m only used stea m ing liquid is w ater, fla v o rfu l stocks, broths, or
o th e r a ro m a tic liquids are som e tim es used to replace some o r all o f th e w ater. The am ount
o f liquid re q u ire d depends on how long th e veg etab le w ill ta ke to cook: th e sh o rte r the
cooking tim e , th e less liquid needed.
Salt, pepper, and o th e r seasonings may be com bined w ith th e veg etab le s as th e y steam
or as th e y are fin ish e d f o r service. A ro m a tic vegetables, spices, herbs, o r c itru s z est can be
added to th e stea m ing liquid to produce sp e c ific fla v o rs . S team ed veg etab le s may be re
heated o r fin is h e d w ith fla v o rfu l oils, b u tte r, heavy cream, o r a sauce.
The q u a n tity o f veg etab le s to be steam ed de te rm in e s the c o rre c t equipm ent. Small
am ounts can be steam ed using an in sert. Larger q u a n titie s , o r a com b in a tio n o f vegetables
th a t req uire d iffe re n t cooking tim e s, are b e tte r prepared in tie re d steam ers, pressure
steam ers, or convection steam ers. It is im p o rta n t to allow enough room f o r steam to circu
la te c o m p le te ly around fo o d s as the y cook to encourage even, rapid cooking.
Also have on hand the to o ls needed f o r handling th e veg etab le s f o r service or f o r hold
ing, and con tain ers to hold sauces, spoons, ladles, and o th e r s erving utensils.
basic formula
Steamed Vegetables
(10 servings)
vegetables (weighed a fter
trimm ing, peeling, and cutting)
Enough cooking liquid to produce

steam throughout the cooking
tim e (fo r a depth o f 2 to 3 in /
Seasoning to add to the vegetables

and/or the cooking liquid
5 to 8 cm in the cooking vessel)
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
1. Bring the liquid to a fu ll boil

and add the seasoning and
aromatics.
2. Add the vegetable to the
steamer in a single layer.
Vegetables are flavo rful on th e ir own,
but to add ad
ditional flavor to a steamed vegetable try one or a combination o f the follow

ing. Replace some or all o f the w ater with:
3. Steam the vegetable to the
desired doneness.
BROTH / VEG ETAB LE JUICES OR F R U IT JUICES SUCH AS O R ANG E, APPLE, C R A N

B E R R Y /S T O C K
4. Serve the vegetable or
Depending on the desired result, the steamingliquidcan

be flavored w ith aromatic vegetables:
CAR R OTS / C ELE R Y / O N IO N S
Depending on the desired result, thesteamingliquidcan

be flavored w ith herbs or spices:
BAY LEA F / W H O LE OR CHO PPED G A R LIC / W HOLE OR CHO PPED P A R SLEY /
W H O LE OR CHO PPED T H Y M E / C O R IA N D E R / CRACKED PEPPERCORNS /
C U M IN /G R A T E D GING ER
1. bring the liquid to a full boil in

th e b o tto m o f a covered steam er. A rrange th e veg etab le s
in a single layer on a s te a m e r in s e rt o r t ie r to allow the
steam to come in to c o n ta c t w ith all sides o f th e veg
etable. Add seasonings to th e veg etab le s b e fo re th e y go
in to th e s te a m e r f o r th e b e st fla v o r de velopm ent. As the
liq u id com es to a boil, it produces the stea m to cook the
veg etab le s. Cover th e s te a m e r to b ring th e liquid to a bo il
fa s te r and tra p th e stea m inside th e vessel.
A dd in g seasonings to th e liquid a t th e beginning helps
release th e ir fla v o rs . B e fo re p u ttin g th e s te a m e r over
d ire c t heat, add any de sire d a ro m a tics or seasonings to
the stea m ing liquid so th a t th e y can release th e ir fla v o r
in to th e steam m ore e ffe c tiv e ly .
Steam th e veg etab le s to th e desired doneness.
Doneness is d e te rm in e d by how th e p a rtic u la r veg etab le
w ill be handled once it is steam ed. S team ed veg etab le s
may be handled in th e same w ays as boile d veg etab le s.
2. properly steamed vegetables

should have good fla v o r and v ib ra n t color. Be sure to ta s te
the v e g e ta b le to assess n o t only th e fla v o r b u t also th e
te x tu re . The te x tu re s m ay v a ry fro m ve ry crisp (blanched
veg etab le s) to te n d e r enough to puree. P ro p e rly steam ed
bro ccoli, fo r exam ple, should be b rig h t green, and you
should be able to pierce the stem w ith a pa rin g k n ife w ith
litt le resista nce . Seasonings should enhance th e fla v o r o f
th e dish. Unless th e y are m eant to be served chilled, veg
eta ble s should be ve ry h o t when served to th e guest.
653
Pan
P
a n
stea m in g
-s
is
good
la
t ea m ed v e g e t a b le s are
liquid
. U
s u a l l y the
m inute
techn iq u e
prepared
liqjjid b a r e l y
for
in a c o v e r e d
s m a l l
batches
or
individual
o r d er s
pot with a r ela t iv e ly s m a l l a m o u n t of
co vers the v e g e t a b l e s
and
m o st
of the cooking
o ccu rs
BY STEAMING.
pan steaming
Speed is a m ajor advantage o f th is technique. Green vegetables, such as green beans,
th a t som etim es d is c o lo r when cooked in a covered pan are done qu ickly enough to retain
a b rig h t color. A n o th e r advantage is th a t the cooking liquid can be reduced to make a pan
sauce or glaze.
Pan stea m ing is e ffe c tiv e because vegetables cook ve ry q u ickly b e fo re th e y lose sig
n ific a n t flavo r, color, te x tu re , o r n u tritiv e value. To sho rte n th e to ta l am ount o f tim e the
vegetables spend in th e pan, some chefs like to have th e liquid already a t a simmer. In ad d i
tio n , th is p e rm its th e ch e f to ste e p the liquid w ith seasonings and a ro m a tics such as shal
lo ts and ginger. This infuses th e cooking liquid and the steam fo r a m ore fla v o rfu l fin ish e d
dish.
Vegetables o f v irtu a lly all s o rts can be prepared by pan steam ing. Inspect the ve g e ta
bles f o r q u a lity and freshness. Rinse, trim , peel, and cu t th e veg etab le as close to cooking
tim e as possible f o r th e b e st fla v o r and n u tritio n . A ll cuts should be precise and uniform ,
to ensure even cooking and th e b e st fla v o r and te x tu re in th e fin ish e d dish. Hold cut veg
etables covered and re frig e ra te d when necessary.
W a te r is o fte n used to prepare pan-steam ed vegetables, b u t stocks or bro th s can be
used fo r added flavo r, if desired. Check th e seasoning o f any cooking liquid and add sa lt or
o th e r fla vo rin g s, including wine, f r u it juice, herbs, spices, or a ro m a tic v egetables like leeks
or shallots.
Sw eeteners, includ in g w h ite or brow n sugar, m aple syrup, honey, and m olasses, can be
added to glaze a vegetable, if desired. If th e cooking liquid w ill be used to prepare a pan
sauce, have on hand a d d itio n a l seasonings o r garnishes, thicke ne rs, cream, o r liaison, as
in dica ted by th e recipe.
654
13
basic formula
Pan-Steamed
Vegetables
(10 portions)
cn
c+
rt>
Enough seasoned cooking liquid
to last throughout cooking time
(enough to barely cover the
Additional ingredients or
preparations as specified
vegetables in the cooking vessel)

2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables
(weighed after trimming and cutting)
Q
T
Q
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Add enough cooking liquid
to properly cook the
vegetables. Use a tig h tfittin g lid.
Check throughout cooking
fo r water level and
doneness.
3. Steam the vegetable to the
desired doneness.
4. If desired, remove the lid
and let the cooking liquid

reduce to make a glaze or
pan sauce.
e x p e rt tips
ing liquids:
STOCK / F R U IT JUICES, SUCH AS A PPLE, O R ANG E, OR C R A N B E R R Y / BROTH
Add them directly to the poaching liquid to infuse flavor throughout the cook
ing process.
M IR E P O IX /V E G E T A B L E S /F R E S H HERBS
5. Serve the vegetable or
chapter 22 CO O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
655
1. pour or ladle
enough cooking liquid in to
the pan to p ro p e rly cook th e vegetables. Very dense veg

eta ble s o r large cu ts w ill req uire m ore liquid than te n d e r
veg etab le s or sm all cuts. For ca rro ts, add enough liquid to
nearly cover th e vegetable. There may be a sm all am ount
o f liquid le ft a fte r coo kin g is com p le te ; th e pan should not
be allow ed to cook dry, however.
Check to see th a t th e level o f the coo kin g liquid is ad
equate th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e . Covering th e pan w ith a
t ig h t - f it t in g lid cap tures th e steam released by th e coo k
ing liquid. The steam condenses on the lid and fa lls back
on to th e veg etab le s. This means th a t any fla v o rs lo s t to
the cooking liquid are retained.
2. check the vegetables
pe rio d ica lly
w h ile th e y are coo kin g to te s t doneness and m aintain

th e p ro p e r level o f heat. Pan-steam ed veg etab le s can
be cooked to a range o f doneness, acco rding to th e ir in
te n d e d use. They may be ve ry lig h tly blanched, parcooked,
o r fu lly cooked. To check f o r p ro p e r doneness, b ite or cut
in to a piece.
656
pan steam ing
3. remove the cover
and le t th e cooking
liquid reduce to make a pan sauce or glaze, if desired. Be

fo re m aking a pan sauce, rem ove th e veg etab le s fro m the
pan if th e y are d e lic a te o r if th e y m ig h t ove rcoo k b e fo re
the sauce is fin is h e d . L e t th e coo kin g liquid reduce u n til
fla v o rfu l, and i f necessary add a sta rch s lu rry or beurre
manie to th icke n it. When th e sauce is done, add the veg
eta ble s back to th e pan, and cook u n til heated through.
For sugar glazes, leave th e ve g e ta b le s in the pan w h ile the
coo kin g liquid reduces to fo rm a glaze.
Look a t th e dish, sm ell it, and ta s te it. The veg etab le
cuts should look a ttra c tiv e , u n ifo rm , and neat. The dish
should sm ell ap pe aling and r e fle c t th e seasonings and f in
ishing or g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts selected . The veg etab le s
should be p ro p e rly cooked and tender, fla v o rfu l, very hot,
and w e ll seasoned.
ch a p te r 22 C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
657
Th
intense
heat
of
g rills
an d
b ro ilers
gives
v e g e t a b le s
rich
bold
fla v o r
. The
main
R E S T R I C T I O N G O V E R N I N G W H I C H V E G E T A B L E S C A N O R C A N N O T B E B R O I L E D IS T H E I R S I Z E . E X P A N D I N G
TH E RE PER TOI RE F RO M A R E L A T I V E L Y SH O RT LIST IN CLUDIN G S U M M E R SQ.UASHES, P E P PE R S, AN D
SLICED ONIONS, C H E F S
HAVE
EXPERIMENTED
AND
SUCCEEDED
AT G R I L L I N G A N D
BROILING SUCH
T E N D E R V E G E T A B L E S A S H E A D S O F R A D I C C H I O TO S U C H D E N S E A N D S T U R D Y V E G E T A B L E S A S W I N T E R
S Q. UAS HES .

S elect p e rfe c tly fre s h veg etab le s fo r th e g rill w ith no s o fte n in g , d isco lo ra tio n , or w ilt
ing. Once selected, veg etab le s should be p ro p e rly rinsed or scrubbed. Remove the peel or
skin, core, and seeds, if a p p ro p ria te . V egetables should be cut in to u n ifo rm slices or o th e r
shapes b e fo re g rillin g o r broiling.
H ig h -m o istu re o r te n d e r vegetables can be g rille d or b ro ile d fro m the raw s ta te ; dense
or s ta rch y veg etab le s may req uire pre lim in a ry cooking to assure th o ro ug h cooking. Am ong
the veg etab le s th a t can be g rille d fro m th e raw s ta te are eggplant, zucchini, peppers, and
m ushroom s. V egetables ty p ic a lly parcooked include fennel, sw e e t p o ta to e s, ca rro ts, and
beets. Prepare the veg etab le s according to th e ty p e and desired resu lt. Rinse, trim , peel,
and cu t th e m in to even pieces. Thread th e veg etab le s on skew ers, i f desired.
S o ft veg etab le s and precooked hard veg etab le s may be m arinate d b rie fly (15 to 30
m inutes) b e fo re g rillin g or bro iling . Longer m a rin a tin g could re s u lt in th e vegetables ab
sorb in g to o much m oistu re. If a m arinade has been used, it may be served as a sauce w ith
th e cooked vegetables. O th e r possible accom panim ents include salsa, soy sauce, vin a i
g re tte , o r b u tte r sauce.
M a intain g rills and b ro ile rs ca re fu lly. Scour th e rods w e ll w ith a w ire g rill brush be
tw een g rillin g d iffe re n t foo ds, as w e ll as a fte r each service period, to rem ove any buildup
o f charred fo o d pa rticle s. W ipe o f f excess residue w ith a dry tow e l. L ig h tly o il the g rill rods
b e fo re using th e g rill. Be c a re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill crea te excess
smoke and fla re -u p , which could be dangerous and cre a te a fir e hazard.
G rilled veg etab le s have a d is tin c tly charred flavo r. They usually have deeply browned
e xte rio rs, som e tim es w ith m arks fro m the rods. The in te rio r is ge ne rally v e ry te n d e r w ith
an intense flavo r.
658
basic formula
Grilled or Broiled
Vegetables
(10 servings)
Oil, marinade, or glaze (optional)

Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg prepped
Sauce and finishing or
vegetables (weighed a fte r
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
1. Heat the g rill or broiler.

2. Marinate the vegetable or
brush it w ith oil.

3. Grill or broil the vegetable
until it is tender and

properly cooked.
4. Serve the vegetable
immediately.
To season the vegetables,
there are many options. Apply
each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking.

SPIC E RUBS / M A R IN A D E S / G LAZES
To add additional flavor,
add items to the grill fire to create an
aromatic smoke, such as:

H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S
659
1. place the prepared vegetable

d ire c tly on th e h o t g rill or b ro ile r rods. V egetables can
be seasoned w ith a m arinade p rio r to g rillin g or broiling.
A llo w excess m arinade to drain fro m vegetables b e fo re
coo kin g to p re ve n t fla re -u p s . If veg etab le s are not m a ri
nated p rio r to cooking, season the m du rin g cooking by
brushing on a lig h t co a t o f glaze o r m arinade.
S a lt and p e pp er w ill n o t adhere w ell to all raw veg
etables, b u t w ill to a ve g e ta b le th a t is h o t fro m th e g rill
o r bro ile r. If th e veg etab le s m ig h t s tic k easily to th e rods
o r fa ll throu gh , se t the m on a sizzle r p la tte r or in a hinged
hand g rill.
G rill o r b ro il th e veg etab le s, tu rn in g as necessary,
u n til p ro p e rly cooked. Use a spatula or ton gs to tu rn over
g rille d veg etab le s a fte r th e f ir s t side has been m arked or
brow ned. To cre a te crossh atch m arks, give th e veg etab le s
a 9 0 -d e g re e tu rn a fte r th e g rill rods have made an im p rin t;
allow the rods to im p rin t again. C om plete th e cooking
tim e on th e second side to produce a w e ll-b row n ed e x te
rior.
V egetables may be g rille d only enough to m ark and
fla v o r the m b e fo re th e y are used in a n o th e r dish. Thick
cuts o f h ig h -sta rch veg etab le s can be m arked on a g rill or
b ro ile r and fin is h e d in th e oven if necessary.
660
V egetables
w in t e r
are
ro a sted
s q u a s h e s
or
for
m a n y
e g g pl a n t
can
d if f e r e n t
be
r o a sted
r e a s o n s
to
m a k e
. Thic k-s k in n ed
a
r ic hly
v e g e ta b le s
f la v o r ed
p u r e e
suc h
as
. M irepo ix
A N D O T HE R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S ARE R O A S TE D TO AD D AN E X T R A D I M E N S I O N OF F L A V O R A N D COLOR
T O S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D O T H E R D I S H E S . T O M A T O E S O R P E P P E R S C A N BE R O A S T E D T O I N T E N S I F Y T H E I R
FLAVOR AND GIV E TH E M A DRIER TEX TU RE.
roasting and
baking
roasting and baking
V e g e t a b l e s c a n be r o a s t e d o r b a k e d w h o l e o r m a y be c u t to p r o d u c e a b r o w n e d e x t e r i o r .
T hick-skinne d w hole vegetables, such as some ro o t vegetables, w in te r squash, and egg

plant, are w ell su ite d to ro a stin g or baking. The skins p ro te c t th e in te rio r fro m drying or
scorching. R oasting is also exce lle nt f o r halved, cut, sliced, o r diced vegetables, as w ell as
veg etab le s th a t m ig h t o th e rw ise be d iffic u lt to peel, such as peppers. Rinse, peel, trim ,
and cu t the vegetable, as necessary. To assure even cooking, cut veg etab le s in to un iform
pieces. Toss th e vegetables w ith oil to p ro m o te bro w n ing and pre ve n t excessive d ryin g and
scorching.
M arinades can enhance fla v o r and give extra p ro te c tio n to veg etab le s as th e y cook in
th e d ry heat. Add seasonings o r a ro m a tics such as salt, pepper, spice blends, or garlic.
Have ready fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts (chopped herbs, plain o r fla v o re d oils, w hole or com
pound b u tte r, reduced heavy cream, or a sauce) as desired or acco rding to the p a rtic u
lar recipe. Have available ro a s tin g pans or she et pans th a t can hold th e vegetables w ith
enough room fo r air to c ircu la te fre e ly , b u t n o t so much th a t ju ices fro m the fo o d are likely
to scorch. Some vegetables can be se t on ro a stin g racks. For baked dishes, use ho tel pans
o r s im ila r baking pans or dishes.
c h a p te r 22 C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
661
basic formula
Roasted or Baked
Vegetables
Oil, marinade, or glaze (optional)
(10 servings)


m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
ex p ert tips
1. Place the vegetable in a hot

or medium oven.
2. Roast it to the desired
doneness.
Fats or other liquids
can be added to the vegetable prior to cook
ing to infuse flavor:
3. Serve, hold, or use it in a
secondary technique.
IN FU S E D O ILS / M A R IN A D E S / G LAZES
can be added to develop more flavor:
A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS / SPIC E S / GARLIC
662
f l
roasting and baking
1. prepare the vegetables
f o r ro a s tin g
as a p p ro p ria te by ty p e or in te n d e d use, and arrange them

cu t sides down in a p re he ated baking o r ro a s tin g pan.
Cut or sliced ve g e ta b le s may be seasoned w ith salt, pe p
per, spices, oils, ju ices, o r m arinades. Add some liq u id to
th e pan to stea m dense ve g e ta b le s and to p re ve n t them
fro m becom ing o ve rly brow n or scorch in g as th e y roast.
S et ve g e ta b le s on racks over th e liquid, or d ire c tly in the
liquid, as p re fe rre d . Ideally, th e liquid should all evaporate
to w a rd the end o f th e coo kin g process to achieve q u a lity
fa c to rs c o n s is te n t w ith ro a ste d item s.
2. place the prepared vegetable

in a m edium to h o t oven and ro a s t to th e de sire d done
ness. Serve im m e d ia te ly, hold fo r la te r use, o r use as an
in g re d ie n t in an o th e r dish.
The lo ng er th e ro a s tin g tim e (a fa c to r d e te rm in e d
by th e ty p e o f veg etab le , size and th ickn e ss, d ia m e te r
o f th e cut, and its de nsity), th e lo w er th e te m p e ra tu re o f
th e oven should be. V egetables m ay be ro a ste d on sheet
pans or in ro a s tin g pans or, in some cases, d ire c tly on the
oven rack to allow th e h o t a ir to circ u la te readily. G ener
ally, ro a ste d ve g e ta b le s are p ro p e rly done when th e y can
be pierced easily w ith th e tip o f a k n ife o r a kitch e n fo rk .
Vegetables should be ro ta te d as th e y ro a s t to p ro m o te
even cooking, because m o st ovens have h o t spots. The
place m ent o f o th e r ite m s in th e oven could also cause un
even cooking. S tir o r tu rn th e ve g e ta b le s to keep th o se on
th e edge o f th e sh e e t pan fro m scorching. If th e pan was
covered, rem ove th e cover o r f o il du rin g the fin a l stage o f
coo kin g to develop a rich, ro a ste d fla v o r and color.
Roasted ve g e ta b le s are b e st served im m e d ia te ly on
heated p la te s w ith fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts as desired. If the
veg etab le s m u st be held, keep the m uncovered in a w arm
s p o t f o r th e s h o rte s t po ssib le tim e.
663
PUREEING
Vegetables are often boiled, steamed, or
A food mill, ricer, or sieve will remove
baked until they are soft enough to make
fibers, skin, and seeds. These tools produce
into a puree. Some are naturally soft or
purees with a rather rough texture. Food
moist enough, even when uncooked,
processors can make quite smooth purees
to make into a puree. The puree can be
from cooked or raw vegetables that have
served as is or may be used as a base for
already been trimmed, peeled, and seeded.
such dishes as vegetable timbales, custards,
Avoid pureeing starchy vegetables in a food
croquettes, or souffles. It may also be used
processor or blender, as they may develop
as an ingredient in other dishes or to flavor
a gluey texture. If the vegetable is fibrous,
or color a sauce or soup.
the processor wont necessarily remove the
Vegetables can range in texture from
strings, so the puree will need to be pushed
coarse to very smooth. If necessary or de
through a sieve. Immersion or countertop
sired, cook the vegetables until the flesh
blenders and vertical chopping machines
is soft enough to mash easily. Cooked veg
can cut vegetables fine enough to produce
etables should be pureed while still very
a very smooth puree, though they, too, do
hot. Use a clean side towel to protect your
not remove fibers and strings from some
hands as you work.
vegetables.
Once the vegetable is roasted, clean it
A vegetable puree can be finished by
by cutting away all heavy or inedible peel,
adjusting its seasoning, adding cream or
rind, stems, and roots. Scoop or squeeze
butter, or blending it into other prepara
out seeds, if necessary. When cleaning,
tions. Or it may be cooled and stored for
remove as little edible flesh as possible.
later use. Cool hot purees over an ice bath
Break or cut the vegetable into pieces sized
before storing. Reheat cooled purees over
properly for the pureeing equipment.
gentle heat or in a bain-marie until the
Select the equipment to make the
food has reached a food-safe temperature.
puree according to the way it will be used.
auteing
and
its
r elated
t e c h n iq u e
stir
-f
r y in g
m a y
be
used
as
the
pr im a ry
cooking
TECHNIQUES FOR VEG ET A B LES AS W E L L AS A LA MINUTE FINISHING TECHNIQUES. BOILED, STEAMED,

O R P A N - S T E A M E D V E G E T A B L E S M A Y B E T O S S E D O R R O L L E D IN B U T T E R O V E R H I G H H E A T A S A F I N I S H I N G
S T E P , O R T H E Y M A Y B E C O O K E D IN A S M A L L A M O U N T O F A F L A V O R F U L L I Q U I D , S A U C E , O R C R E A M .
S
a u teed
v e g e t a b le s
have
distinct
fla v o r
prim arily
d epen d en t
upo n
the
v e g e t a b l e
but
A L S O I N F L U E N C E D B Y T H E C O O K I N G F A T T H A T IS C H O S E N A S W E L L A S A N Y A D D I T I O N A L F I N I S H I N G O R
GARNISHI NG INGREDIENTS.
sauteing
G lazing is an o th e r fin is h in g tech niq ue based upon th e sau tein g m ethod. Add a sm all
am ount o f b u tte r and honey, sugar, o r m aple syrup to th e veg etab le as it reheats. The sug
ars liq u e fy and may caram elize, co a tin g the veg etab le evenly to give it some flavo r, sheen,
and a golden color.
Rinse, trim , and peel the raw veg etab le and cu t it in to the desired shape. Arugula, s p in
ach and o th e r le a fy greens, m ushroom s, sum m er squashes, and onions may be sauteed or
s tir -frie d fro m th e raw sta te . T horoughly drain greens and o th e r veg etab le s th a t can hold
excess m o istu re . This im p o rta n t s te p assures th e b e st flavo r, te x tu re , and co lo r in th e f in
ished dish.
Some veg etab le s w ill not cook c o m p le te ly when sauteed unless th e y are parcooked by
a separate m ethod fir s t. In th is case, ju s t fin is h th e veg etab le s by the sau tein g m ethod. If
necessary, p a rtia lly o r w h olly cook th e veg etab le by boiling, steam ing, o r ro a stin g it firs t.
S e le ct a cooking f a t to com p le m e nt th e fla v o r o f th e v egetable. Oils such as olive, pea
nut, canola, corn, or s a fflo w e r can be used, as w ell as w hole o r c la rifie d b u tte r o r rendered
anim al fa t (lard, duck fa t, o r bacon). O ptio nal seasonings and a ro m a tics (salt, pepper, and
lem on ju ice ) can ad ju st o r heighten th e fla vo r. Finely mince o r chop fre s h herbs and add
the m a t th e la st m om ent.
Take th e q u a n tity o f fo o d to be sauteed in to account when se le ctin g th e pan. It needs
to be large enough to avoid overcrow ding; if to o much is p u t in th e pan, th e te m p e ra tu re
w ill drop to o quickly. On th e o th e r hand, to avoid scorching, th e pan m ust n o t be to o large.
C ertain m a te ria ls are b e tte r a t c on du cting heat w ith quick re a ctio n to changes in te m p e ra
tu re ; o th e rs o ffe r a m ore co n sta n t heat and do n o t re a ct as quickly. There are b e n e fits to
b o th typ e s o f pan, and you w ill learn qu ickly which pan w o rks b e st in w hich s itu a tio n and
w ith which fo o d . Use o ffs e t spatulas, tongs, o r s tir-fr y in g to o ls to tu rn and l i f t vegetables
as th e y saute.
Chapter 22 C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
b asic fo rm u la for sau tein g v egetables

Sauteed Vegetables
(10 servings)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables
(weighed after trimming, peeling,
cutting, and blanching or parcooking;
however, leafy green vegetables lose
about half their weight in moisture

during sauteing, so begin with 4
lb/1.81 kg to prepare 10 servings)
Small amount of oil or
other cooking fat
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat the pan; heat the
cooking medium in it.
2 . Add the vegetable.
3. Saute the vegetable,
keeping it in motion.
4. Add the aromatics,
When vegetables are fu lly or partially cooked by

steaming, broiling, or roasting, they can be sauteed just long enough to reheat
them or complete cooking thema technique known as finishing.
Whole butter is a common choice for finishing vegetables, but other flavorful
cooking fats can be used to give a specific flavor to the dish:
E X T R A -V IR G IN O L IV E O IL / IN FU S E D O ILS / R END ER ED BACON OR DUCK FAT
seasonings, or glaze and

heat thoroughly.
Vegetables can also be cooked
Serve the vegetable

immediately.
just enough liquid to coat the vegetables, such as:
inasmaii amount of liquid
using the technique known as sweating, which is similar to sauteing but with
H E A V Y C REA M / STOCK / BROTH / SAUCE
I f d e s i r e d , glazes can be sweetened to heighten the flavor or combat

bitterness in the vegetable:
S U G A R /H O N E Y /S Y R U P
Additional ingredients or garnishes
may be added to
increase flavor. These ingredients may be added once the cooking medium is
heated through or at the end of cooking, depending on the desired result.
G A R LIC / FRESH HERBS / GRATED GING ER
Heat the cooking fat,
cream, or sauce over medium heat. Add the
prepared vegetables to the pan without crowding and stir, toss, or turn them
until they are very hot and evenly coated. Taste them for proper doneness and
seasoning, and serve at once.
Use healthier fats, such as olive oil, to
saute the vegetables.
666
C/3
P
1. add the prepared vegetables
to
r+
o>>
i
th e fa t and sw eated a ro m a tics in th e pan. Use only enough
oil o r f a t to keep th e pan lu b ric a te d and p re ve n t th e vege

ta b le fro m burning. The coo kin g m edium should be h o t b u t
O rq
no t hazy o r sm oking. V egetables re q u ire less intense heat

than m eat, p o u ltry , and fish . Some ve g e ta b le sautes begin
by coo kin g a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts in th e o il to add fla v o r to
th e fin is h e d dish.
If m ore than one ty p e o f ve g e ta b le is being cooked,
add th e ve g e ta b le s in sequence, s ta rtin g w ith th o se th a t
req uire th e lo n g e st co o kin g tim e and ending w ith tho se
th a t re q u ire th e least.
Do n o t ove rcrow d th e pan. For m o st v eg etab le s, add
only enough to make a re la tiv e ly th in layer in the pan.
L e a fy greens can be m ounded lo ose ly in th e pan, as the y
lose volum e q u ickly w h ile sauteing.
Add seasonings and con tinu e to saute u n til th e veg
e ta b le s are fu lly cooked and fla v o rfu l. A dd in g s a lt to o
e a rly in th e process can p re m a tu re ly draw o u t m o istu re
fro m th e ve g e ta b le s and in h ib it th e saute process. Some
veg etab le s m u st be k e p t in ne arly co n s ta n t m o tio n as
the y saute; o th e rs develop a b e tte r fla v o r and co lo r when
tu rn e d only once o r tw ice . Use o ffs e t spatulas, ton gs, or
s tir- fr y in g to o ls to tu rn and l i f t veg etab le s as th e y saute.
2. as vegetables saute, th e y w ilt or

s o fte n and th e ir c o lo r in te n s ifie s . Each com p on ent o f a
sauteed ve g e ta b le dish should be cooked u n til done, very
hot, and w e ll seasoned. Be sure to check th e te m p e ra tu re
and seasoning o f ve g e ta b le s th a t are held fo r service in a
stea m ta b le o r o th e r h o ld ing device. See page 6 7 0 f o r a d
d itio n a l in fo rm a tio n on fin is h in g veg etab le s by sauteing.
ch a p te r 22 C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
667
b asic fo rm u la for stir-fryin g v egetables

Stir-Fried Vegetables
(10 portions)
smaii amount of oil or

other cooking fat
Sauce or ingredients to
make sauce (optional)
ga|t pepper anc| other seasonings
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
j. Heat the pan; heat the
cooking medium in it.
can be added to develop more flavor:
A R O M A T IC VEG E TAB LE S / FRESH HERBS / S P IC E S / GARLIC
2. Add aromatics. Add the
vegetable.
3. S tir-fry the vegetable,
keeping it in motion. Move

the f ir s t vegetable up the
side o f the wok before
adding more vegetables.
Liquids or sauces
can be used to finish the stir-fried vegetables
and to develop more flavor:

BROTH / G L A ZE S / PREPARED SAUCES
4. Add the aromatics,
seasonings, or glaze and

heat thoroughly.
5. Serve the vegetable
immediately.
668
1. heat the wok b e fo re adding th e o il by la

d ling it around th e up pe r edge o f th e pan. Once th e o il in
th e b o tto m o f th e pan is hot, add th e a ro m a tics to release
th e ir fla v o rs . To s t ir - f r y a c o m b in a tio n o f v eg etab le s, add
th e cu t v eg etab le s in sequence, s ta rtin g w ith th e veg
e ta b le s th a t ta k e th e lo n g e st to cook, such as c a rro ts and
b ro ccoli. Keep th e ve g e ta b le s in c o n s ta n t m otion.
2. as the vegetables become hot,

push the m up o n to th e sides o f th e wok. This allow s the
w ok to recover its heat b e fo re you make th e next a d d itio n
o f vegetables. Continue adding the veg etab le s to the cen
te r o f the w ok and con tinu e to s tir - fr y u n til each ad d itio n
is very hot. A dd veg etab le s like zucchini and y e llo w squash
a t th e m id p o in t o f coo kin g tim e and ve ry te n d e r in g re d i
ents like green onions o r fre s h herbs a t th e la s t m om ent.
669
3. a properly prepared veg etab le s tirfr y has a co m b in a tio n o f fla v o rs , te x tu re s , and colors.
Some ve g e ta b le s m ay becom e ve ry te n d e r (eggplant or
zucchini, f o r instance), w h ile o th e rs should have an a lm o st
crisp te x tu re . A v a rie ty o f seasonings and fla v o rin g s can
be added to th e fin is h e d s tir-fr y . Serve veg etab le s tirfrie s very hot, d ire c tly fro m th e wok.
FINISHING AND GLAZING VEGETABLES BY SAUTEING

When vegetables are fully or partially cooked by
steaming, boiling, or roasting, they can be sauteed
Heat the cooking fat, cream, or sauce over me

dium to medium-high heat. Add a small amount
just long enough to reheat them or to complete
of sugar, honey, or other syrup to produce a sweet
cooking thema technique known as finishing.
glaze, if desired. Garnishes may be added now or
Whole butter is a common choice for finishing

vegetables, but other flavorful cooking fats, such
after the vegetables are heated through.

Add the prepared vegetables to the pan with
as extra-virgin olive oil, infused oils, or rendered
out crowding and stir, toss, or turn them until they
bacon, are also used to give a specific flavor to the
are very hot and evenly coated. Taste them for
dish. Vegetables may also be finished in a small
proper doneness and seasoning, and serve at once.
amount of heavy cream or a sauce, usually just

enough to cling to the vegetables.
670
id
p
Pa n - f r ie d v e g e t a b l e s h a v e a s a t is f y in g , c r is p e x t e r io r t h a t p r o v id e s a p l e a s in g c o n t r a s t
to
th e
m o is t
, f l a v o r f u l in t e r io r . Pa n f r y in g
is
s im il a r
to
s a u t e in g
; t h e m a in
A R E T H A T IN P A N F R Y I N G , T H E A M O U N T O F O I L U S E D A S A C O O K I N G M E D I U M
d if f e r e n c e s
M -j
IS G R E A T E R T H A N F O R
S A U T E I N G A N D T H E C O O K I N G T E M P E R A T U R E IS G E N E R A L L Y L O W E R . A L S O , A N Y S A U C E S E R V E D W I T H
P A N - F R I E D V E G E T A B L E S IS M A D E S E P A R A T E L Y . T h e V E G E T A B L E S M A Y BE B R E A D E D O R C O A T E D W I T H
I*
QTQ
FLO U R OR A BATTER.
pan frying
Rinse, peel, trim , and cut th e vegetable. W holly o r p a rtia lly cook th e vegetable, if neces
sary. Bread it w ith a stan dard breading, o r c o a t it w ith flo u r o r b a tte r.
C la rifie d b u tte r, m o st veg etab le oils, shortening, and rendered anim al fa t (duck fa t or
lard) can all be used fo r pan fryin g . The cooking fa t should com e ab o u t ha lfw a y up th e veg
eta ble s in th e pan.
A ro m a tics and seasonings may be added to th e veg etab le b e fo re o r a fte r cooking, or
the y may be included in the breading or b a tte r, if a p p ro p ria te . In a d d itio n , a recipe may call
fo r fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts such as a com pound b u tte r, sauce, relish, o r salsa.
The pan m ust be large enough to avoid overcrow ding. If th e pan is crow ded, the o il te m
p e ra tu re w ill drop quickly, m o istu re w ill accum ulate, and a good seal w ill n o t fo rm . If th is
happens, th e veg etab le may absorb th e o il and th e breading can becom e soggy or even fa ll
aw ay in places. Use tongs, a skim m er, o r a sp id e r to rem ove th e veg etab le s fro m th e pan.
Have a pan o r p la tte r lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t excess f a t fro m th e veg etab le s b e fore
service.
chapter 22 C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
671
Q basic formula
Pan-Fried Vegetables
Coating ingredients such as flour,
(10 portions)
cornmeal, egg wash, standard

breading, or batter (optional)
trimming, peeling, and cutting),
Oil or other cooking fat
raw, blanched, parcooked, or

fully cooked, as necessary
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
ex p ert tips
1. Heat th e cooking medium.
f l
2. Add th e vegetable.
3. Cook until its e x te rio r is
ligh tly browned and crisp.
4. Blot on paper towels.
Depending on the desired result, different crusts canbe

achieved with different coatings. These coatings include:
BATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / C O R N M E A L / FLOUR
5. Season and serve

immediately.
season the vegetables prior
to pan frying. These seasoning ingredients can also be added to the coating or
batter that will be used to cover the vegetable:
FRESH HERBS / D R IED SPIC ES
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. heat the cooking fat inaheavygauge saute pan, rondeau, o r brasier. Pan fry in g req uire s
m edium to high heat. When th e coo kin g fa t appears hazy
I*
or shim m ering, it is h o t enough. M o n ito r th e heat o f the

fa t to keep it even th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e . The s h o rte r
CTQ
th e necessary co o kin g tim e , th e higher th e heat may be.

For rapid coo kin g and f o r th e b e st color, avoid crow ding
th e veg etab le s in th e pan. Add th e veg etab le s gradually;
to o many veg etab le s added a t once w ill low er th e cooking
te m p e ra tu re . O vercrow din g also causes th e co a tin g to
pull away fro m th e veg etab le .
Cook th e ve g e ta b le s over m edium to high heat u n til
th e f ir s t side becom es lig h tly brow ned and crisp. Turn
the m and co m p le te coo kin g on th e second side. Remove
the ve g e ta b le s and b lo t th e m b rie fly on paper to w e ls to
absorb any excess fa t. Season w ith s a lt and p e pp er away
fro m th e coo kin g fa t, to help th e f a t la s t th ro u g h succes
sive batches. S kim away any b its o f co a tin g fro m th e fa t
b e fo re adding th e n e xt batch. P a n -frie d veg etab le s m ust
be served rig h t away.
P ro p e rly p a n -frie d veg etab le s have a golden or brown,
crisp e xte rio r, w ith th e in te rio r te n d e r to th e b ite and very
hot. Any co a tin g is crisp and light.
chapter 22 CO O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
673
erfec tly
AND
fried v e g e t a b le s a re
FLAVORS
ENTREES. W
hen
TO
SHOWCASE
light and s a v o r y
IN A P P E T I Z E R S ,
SIDE
and
o ffer the chef a r an g e of t ex t u r es
DISHES,
GARNISHES,
ACCOMPANIMENTS,
AND
V E G E T A B L E S A R E D E E P FRI ED, T H E R E S U L T S C A N R A N G E F R O M CRISP, F R A G I L E CHI PS
TO H E A R T Y C R O Q U E T T E S . T E M P U R A - S T Y L E D E E P F R Y I N G P A I R S F R E S H V E G E T A B L E S W I T H A L I G H T
BATTER. ( F O R F R E N C H - F R I E D POTATOES, S E E PAGE
74 7.)
deep frying
Choose fre s h and fla v o rfu l vegetables and prepare them f o r fry in g according to th e rec
ipe's req uire m en ts o r th e intended style o f service. A ll vegetables m ust be tho ro ug hly
rinsed, and in some cases scrubbed. Trim away tough o r inedible skins, peels, cores, seeds,
and roo ts. Cut o r slice as required. C ertain vegetables should be parcooked b e fo re frying .
For veg etab le f r it te r s or cro q u e tte s, dice, mince, or puree veg etab le s and use an ap
p ro p ria te bind er to hold the m to g e th e r in a b a tte r. O ptio ns include heavy becham el o r ve
loute, heavy cream, fre s h cheeses, eggs, and bread crum bs. Some frie d v eg etab le pre pa ra
tio n s call f o r a sta n d a rd breading (see page 3 6 5 ) or b a tte r. The b a tte r should be applied
ju s t b e fo re th e v eg etab le is frie d .
Choose oils and o th e r cooking fa ts f o r fry in g th a t can reach a high te m p e ra tu re w ith
o u t sm oking or breaking down. V egetable oils, including corn, canola, and s a fflo w e r, have
n e utral fla v o rs and high sm oke points. Special oils may be used f o r a sp e c ific flavo r. Olive
oil or rendered duck or goose fa t may be ap p ro p ria te .
Use e ith e r a fry in g k e ttle or deep fryer. E le ctric or gas deep fry e rs m aintain an even
te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t cooking tim e and are e ffic ie n t fo r menus th a t produce large quan
titie s o f frie d vegetables and o th e r frie d dishes. Use baskets to low er some frie d item s
in to the o il and to rem ove the m once cooked. For o th e r frie d foo ds, use ton gs to add the
vegetables to th e fry in g fa t and a spide r o r skim m e r to rem ove them . This is known as the
sw im m ing m ethod. Prepare a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t frie d fo o d s im m e d ia te ly
a fte r th e y c om p le te cooking.
674
Q (D
(D
T3
Deep-Fried
Vegetables
(10 servings)
trimming, peeling, and cutting),
i-i
Coating ingredients, such
as flour, egg wash, standard
breading, or batter (optional)

i*<
Enough oil or other cooking fat to
GTQ
completely submerge the vegetable
raw, blanched, parcooked, or

fully cooked, as necessary
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
ex p ert tips
Coat the vegetable with

breading or batter.
2. Heat the oil in a deep fry e r
and add the vegetable.
Depending on the desired result, different crustscanbe

achieved with different coatings. These coatings include:
3. Fry the vegetable until
evenly browned or golden.

4. Remove it from the oil and
blo t on paper towels.

5. Season the vegetables and
B ATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / FLOUR
season the vegetable prior to
deep frying. These seasoning ingredients can also be added to the coating or
batter that will be used to cover the vegetable:
serve immediately.
FRESH HERBS / D RIED SPIC E S
675
1. heat the oil in a deep fryer or

k e ttle . The b e st te m p e ra tu re f o r deep fry in g m o st veg
eta b le s is ab ou t 3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C . Low er breaded vegetables
in to th e oil using a basket. Be sure to leave room betw een
la rg e r pieces to p re ve n t the m fro m s tic k in g to each other,
and do n o t ove rcrow d th e basket. B a tte r-c o a te d veg
e ta b le s should be dipp ed in to th e b a tte r (in some cases,
th e y should be d u sted w ith flo u r b e fo re th e y are coa ted in
b a tte r) using to n g s o r a spider, the n im m e d ia te ly lowered
in to th e h o t oil.
A dd in g th e vegetables w ill low er the te m p e ra tu re o f
th e oil fo r a tim e (th is is known as recovery time), so adjust
th e size o f the batches added to sho rte n recovery tim e.
2. fry the vegetables
u n til fu lly cooked.
Remove and drain. Season if necessary. F rying tim e s vary

a cco rding to th e ty p e o f veg etab le . The veg etab le (or
ve g e ta b le m ixtu re , in th e case o f c ro q u e tte s and fr itte r s )
should be fu lly cooked, tender, and hot. The coating, i f any,
should be golden to brown. However, p ro p e rly frie d te m pura veg etab le s should be w h ite to lig h t golden and have
a crisp te x tu re on th e outside.
V egetables coa ted in bre ad ing and prepared by the
ba sket m ethod ty p ic a lly sta y subm erged u n til th e y are
fu lly cooked, when th e y rise to th e o ils surface. Use the
ba sket to l i f t th e m fro m th e oil. Hold th e ba sket over the
fr y e r b rie fly to allow th e oil to drain back in to th e k e ttle .
B a tte r-c o a te d veg etab le s frie d using th e sw im m ing
m etho d may be tu rn e d as th e y f r y to cook and brown them
evenly. Use ton gs, a spider, o r s im ila r to o ls to tu rn the
v eg etab le s and l i f t the m fro m th e oil when fu lly cooked.
T ransfe r frie d veg etab le s to a pan lined w ith paper
to w e ls to b lo t the m . Season the m w ith salt, pepper, or
spice blends a t th is p o in t. Seasoning should never be done
d ire c tly over the fry e r, since th e se seasonings could has
te n the breakdow n o f th e fry in g oil. Fried veg etab le s are
a t th e ir peak o f q u a lity now, and should be served rig h t
away. If necessary, th e y may be held fo r up to 15 m inutes
in a w arm place (such as under a heat lamp).
In general, th e th in n e r th e c u t used f o r th e vegetable,
th e c ris p e r th e fin is h e d dish w ill be. The e x te rio r o f the
ve g e ta b le should be golden o r brow n in color, th e fla v o r
fre s h and appealing. The coating, i f any was used, should
be an even th ickn e ss and n o t excessive in re la tio n to the
ve g e ta b le p o rtio n . The vegetable, as w e ll as any coatings,
should be p ro p e rly seasoned and e x tre m e ly hot.
676
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATO ES, G R A IN S A N D LE G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
eg etab le
en ch
-s
s t ew s
an d
t y l e p e a s
b raises
a n d
includ e
such
delicate
dishes
on the other end of the s p e c t r u m
a s
petits
pois
la
fran ch ise
su ch st u r d y a n d ro bu st dishes
A S R A T A T O U I L L E A N D B R A I S E D C A B B A G E . S T E W E D O R B R A I S E D V E G E T A B L E S L I T E R A L L Y C O O K IN T H E I R
O W N J U I C E S . T h e V E G E T A B L E S IN
S T E W A R E C U S T O M A R I L Y C U T I N T O S M A L L P I E C E S , W H I L E T H O S E IN
A B R A I S E A R E IN L A R G E P I E C E S O R L E F T W H O L E . O C C A S I O N A L L Y , B E U R R E M A N I E O R A S T A R C H S L U R R Y
IS A D D E D T O T H E J U I C E S T O G I V E T H E D I S H M O R E S U B S T A N C E A N D T O I M P R O V E I TS A P P E A R A N C E . T h e
T H I C K E N E D S A U C E L IG HT LY COATS TH E V E G E T A B L E , PROVIDING AN A T T R AC TI V E S H EE N . V E G E T A B L E
S T E W S A N D B R A I S E S H A V E DEEP, C O N C E N T R A T E D F LA V O RS . S T E W S A N D B R A I S E S S H O U L D BE FORK
T E N D E R OR, IN S O M E C A S E S , M E L T I N G L Y S O F T .
stewing and
braising
stewing and braising
(Fr
V egetable stew s and braises may be com posed o f one main in g re d ie n t or a com bination
o f vegetables. Braised fennel, fo r example, contains a single main in gre die nt; ra ta to u ille is
a ste w th a t m elds several d iffe re n t vegetables. Braises and stew s ge ne rally include some
a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as sh a llo ts or m irepoix.
Prepare the veg etab le s according to th e ir typ e and the desired resu lt. Rinse, peel, trim ,
and cu t th e vegetables, as necessary. Blanch the m to rem ove b itte rn e s s o r to aid in rem ov
ing peels.
The fa t chosen should have a good fla v o r one th a t is a p p ro p ria te to the dish. Veg
eta ble s th a t do not release a s ig n ific a n t am ount o f liquid as th e y cook may need a d d itio n a l
liquid such as stock, wine, fu m e t, juice, or w ater.
Prepare and use seasonings and aro m atics such as s a lt and pepper, shallots, garlic,
m inced herbs, spices, m ire poix, or m atignon. Some braised and stew ed veg etab le dishes
include a po rk p ro d u c t (salt pork, bacon, or ham) or an acid (vinegar, c itru s ze st or juice, or
wine) to develop a com plex flavo r.
Some recipes call fo r an added th icke n e r such as a slu rry o f a rro w ro o t, cornstarch, po
ta to starch, or a beurre manie. Various fin is h in g in gre die nts, such as reduced heavy cream,
a cream sauce, b u tte r, or a liaison may be added to give a v eg etab le s te w a rich flavo r, some
sheen, and a sm oo th te x tu re . A veg etab le stew or braise may also be garnished w ith bread
crum bs and cheese to cre a te a gratin.
The main piece o f eq uipm en t needed is a b ra sie r or rondeau o r o th e r deep, wide, heavyb o tto m e d cooking vessel w ith a lid. Use a skim m e r o r s lo tte d spoon to rem ove p ro p e rly
braised or stew ed veg etab le s fro m the p o t b e fo re fin is h in g the sauce.
Use a s tra in e r or im m ersion b le n d e rto fin is h th e sauce.
c h a p te r 22 C O O KIN G V E G E T A B LE S
677
basic formula
Stewed or Braised
Vegetables
Aromatic vegetables,
Small amount of cooking fat
seasonings, herbs, and spices

(10 portions)
Flavorful cooking liquid
3 lb to 3 lb 8 oz/1.35 to 1.59 kg
prepped vegetables (weighed after
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat the oil or stock.
ex p ert tips
Smother the vegetable and

seasonings or aromatics.
3.
Add the liquid, bring it to

a simmer, and cook the
vegetable.
f l
choose flavorfulliquids to add
to the stew or braise:

STOCK / BROTH
Add the remaining

vegetables and aromatics.
5.
Cook the stew or braise

until the vegetables are
tender.
Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Add others later so
that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture.
S A C H ET D EPIC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / GARLIC

finish the dish according to
the recipe.
To prepare a sauce from the cooking liquid, remove the vegetables

from the cooking liquid and thicken it in one of the following ways:
7.
Serve the vegetable or

hold it.
Reduce the liquid to a sauce-like flavor and consistency.

Puree some of the arom atic vegetables and return the puree to the
cooking liquid.
Add a bit of beurre manie or starch slurry to the cooking liquid.
stewing and braising
1. cook the aromatic vegetables

in a coo kin g fa t, beginning w ith m em bers o f th e onion
fa m ily, to develop a sm ooth, sw e et ta s te in th e dish. Cook
a ro m a tic veg etab le s in a lig h t-c o lo re d ste w or braise ju s t
u n til th e y s ta r t to becom e te n d e r and release some o f
th e ir n a tural ju ices. A d d in g s a lt a t th e beginning o f the
coo kin g process w ill help acce le rate m o istu re release
fro m th e veg etab le s. For o th e r dishes, cook th e a ro m a t
ics to th e de sire d stage o f brow nness, ranging fro m lig h t
gold to deep brown. Use enough o il to p ro p e rly cook the
a ro m a tics w ith o u t scorch in g them , and s tir as needed to
develop th e ir fla v o r and color.
m eth o d in detail
in order, fro m le a st to m o s t ten der, s tirrin g as necessary
and a d ju s tin g th e seasoning and co n siste n cy o f th e dish
as it braises or stew s. Cook ve g e ta b le stew s over g e n tle
heat w ith th e lid on to encourage the m to release th e ir
fla v o r and to ca p tu re it in th e coo kin g liquid. Braises may
be cooked over d ire c t heat or in th e oven. If th e cooking
liquid cooks aw ay to o quickly, add m ore and low er the
heat s lig h tly . If th e liq u id does n o t reduce p ro p e rly du rin g
cooking, rem ove th e lid to encourage n a tural red uctio n.
S tew or braise th e ve g e ta b le s u n til th e y are fla v o rfu l,
fu lly cooked, and fo rk -te n d e r. The ste w or braise is
ready to serve now, b u t may be fin is h e d by p re p a rin g a
sauce fro m th e co o kin g liquid.
Serve as is on h o t plates, or fin is h th e veg etab le s w ith
a g ra tin to p p in g and brow n under a salam ander or bro ile r.
S tew ed and braised ve g e ta b le s can be held fo r a longer
tim e than o th e r v e g e ta b le s w ith o u t losing s ig n ific a n t
q u a lity. Hold them , lo o se ly covered, in a stea m ta b le . They
also may be cooled and re frig e ra te d , then reh ea te d as
needed.
c h a p te r 22 C O O K IN G VE G E T A B L E S
679
general guidelines for vegetables

Each vegetable cooking technique produces spe cific and cha racteristic results and a ffe cts
the flavor, te xtu re , and n u tritive value o f each vegetable in d iffe re n t ways. The chef can take
advantage o f the fu ll range o f p o ssib ilities w ith in a m ethod to produce vegetable dishes ta i
lored to the op era tions needs. Kitchens th a t rely on regional and seasonal produce can adapt
a technique both to su it an ingredient's specific needs and to achieve an e ffe c t. For example,
though acorn squash is o fte n roasted or pureed, it can also be ge n tly stewed in cream or grilled
and served w ith a salsa. Cucumbers, m ost com m only considered a vegetable to be eaten raw,
may be steamed, sauteed, or even braised. The flavor, te xtu re , and color diffe re nce s produced
in one vegetable when prepared by d iffe re n t techniques can be quite extraordinary.
C a refully handled veg etab le s m aintain th e ir flavo r, color, te x tu re , and n u tritio n a l value
longer. Rinse le a fy or d e lica te vegetables ca re fu lly to avoid bru isin g them , and dry them
tho ro ug hly.
Scrub h a rdier veg etab le s b e fo re peeling. Be sure to rem ove all tra ce s o f d irt or g rit.
In all cases, fro m a sim ple dish o f steam ed or boiled vegetables, served seasoned but
o th e rw ise unadorned, to a com plex veg etab le gra tin, th e b e st overall q u a lity is assured
by p ro p e rly cooking v egetables to th e a p p ro p ria te doneness and serving them as soon as
possible. The style o f service and overall volum e o f the kitche n de te rm in e how much ad
vance cooking and ho ld ing is desirable ju s t as much as the nature o f the veg etab le and the
cooking m ethod. Sauteed, s tir-frie d , pa n -frie d , and d e e p -frie d dishes m ay be prepared ju s t
a t the m om ent o f service. Braises, stews, and purees are su ite d to batch cooking, since
th e y are easier to hold and lose little , i f any, o f th e ir fla v o r and te x tu re when prepared in
advance and reheated (and may, in fa c t, im prove when held).
There are d is tin c t d iffe re n ce s in how te n d e r a vegetable should be when it is properly
cooked. Some veg etab le s broccoli and green beans, fo r exam ple are not considered
pro pe rly cooked u n til they are qu ite tender. O thers, such as snow peas and sugar snap peas,
should always retain some b ite (fu lly cooked but s till firm ). Preferences regarding the co r
re ct doneness o f certain vegetables may vary fro m one cuisine to a nother and fro m one veg
etable to another. In addition, the re are d iffe re n t standards fo r d iffe re n t cooking techniques.
For example, s tir-fry in g generally resu lts in a very crisp te xtu re , w hile roa sting and braising
produce very ten der vegetables.
OPTIONS FORREHEATINGVEGETABLES
In simmering stock or water. Place the veg
moist. Cover with plastic wrap and cut
etables in a sieve or perforated basket and
vents to allow the steam to escape, or cover
lower them into a pot of simmering stock
with parchment paper. Reheat on the high
or water just long enough to heat the veg
est power setting for the shortest possible
etables through. Drain and immediately
time, finish immediately, and serve.
finish the vegetables with butter, sauce,
By sauteing or sweating. Heat a small
seasonings, and so on.
amount of olive oil, butter, cream, stock,
In the microwave. Generally best for small
sauce, or glaze in a saute pan and add the
amounts. Evenly space the vegetables on
vegetables. Toss over medium-high heat
a flat, round, or oval plate or other micro
until warmed through. Add seasonings if
wave-safe container. Some additional liq
necessary and serve.
uid may be needed to keep the vegetables
680
Steamed Broccoli
Makes10servings
Makes10servings
3 lb 8 o z/1 .5 9 kg broccoli (about 4 bunches)
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg carrots, cut into desired shape

(oblique, rondelles, batonnet, julienne, etc.)
1 . Trim the broccoli, peel the stems, and cut into

1 . Bring the water to a boil in a large pot. Add enough
salt to flavor the water. Add the carrots. If necessary,
cover the pot to return the water to a boil as quickly
as possible. Reduce the heat to a strong simmer.
Z . Simmer the carrots until tender, 4 to 7 minutes,
depending on the thickness of the cut. Drain
immediately.
3 . Serve the carrots immediately, finish as desired, or

cool rapidly and refrigerate to reheat and serve later.
spears. Arrange the broccoli on a steamer rack or

perforated insert, and season with salt and pepper.
vegetable recipes
Boiled Carrots
2 . Bring water to a full boil in the bottom of a tightly

covered steamer. Add the broccoli rack, replace the
cover, and steam the broccoli until tender, 5 to 7
minutes.
3 . Remove the broccoli from the steamer, adjust sea

soning with salt and pepper, and serve immediately,
or forego seasoning if storing and cool and store for
later service.
Boiled Edamame
Makes10servings
B rocco li and Toasted G arlic: Saute thinly sliced garlic in

b u tte r or oil in a medium saute pan until lightly browned.
Add the steamed broccoli and toss or roll it in the butter
until very hot. Adjust seasoning w ith salt and pepper, as
necessary. Serve immediately.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sea salt

1 q t/9 6 0 m L water
1 lb /4 5 4 g shelled edamame
1 . Add all but 1 tsp/3 g of the salt to the water in a me

dium stockpot and bring to a boil.
2 . Add the edamame and simmer until tender, 4 to 5

minutes. Drain the edamame and season with the
remaining 1 tsp/3 g f salt. Serve hot or cool to room
temperature.
681
Creamed Corn
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
2 f I o z/6 0 mL red or white wine vinegar
6 o z/1 7 0 g fine-dice leeks, light

green and white portions
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg red or golden beets, tops and

root ends trimmed, skin on and washed
Salt, as needed
3'/2 0 z / 9 9 g sugar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL red or white wine vinegar
Ground nutmeg, as needed
3 tb sp /4 5 mL orange juice
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1 tb sp /3 g chopped chervil
vegetable recipes
Glazed Beets
l '/2 o z/4 3 g butter

Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the leeks and cream in a nonreactive me

dium saucepan. Season with salt, pepper, and nut
meg. Simmer over medium heat until the cream has
reduced by half.
1 . Combine the water and 2 fl oz/6o mL vinegar in a

large pot and add the beets. Bring the water to a boil,
reduce to a simmer, and cook the beets until they are
soft when pierced with a fork or skewer, about 40
minutes, depending on size.
2 . Drain and cool slightly. Peel and slice the beets into
Vi-in/e-mm-thick rounds or uniform wedges. Hold
warm until ready to serve.
2 . Steam the corn over boiling water until fully cooked,

4 to 5 minutes. Drain the corn and add to the leek
mixture. Simmer to reach a good flavor and consis
tency, 2 to 3 minutes more.
3 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.

Add the chopped chervil if serving immediately or
add to corn just before serving. Serve now or hold it
hot for service.
3 . In a small saute pan, combine the sugar, vinegar,

juice, stock, and butter and bring to a simmer. Cook
gently until the glaze has the consistency of a light
syrup, about 15 minutes.
4 . When ready to serve, toss the cut beets in the glaze

over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately.
683
Pan-Steamed Carrots
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg sliced carrots ('A in/6 mm thick)
Gingered Snow Peas

and Yellow Squash
Makes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter

Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil
2 tb s p /1 8 g minced ginger
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
2 tsp /6 g minced garlic
1 . Pour about i in/3 cm salted water into a large sauce

pan and bring to a boil.
2 . Add the carrots, adding more water if necessary to

barely cover the carrots. Bring to a boil. Cover the
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g snow peas, strings removed

12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice yellow squash
Salt, as needed
Freshly ground white pepper, as needed
pan tightly, and reduce the heat slightly.
3 . Pan steam the carrots until they are fully cooked and
tender to the bite, 5 to 6 minutes.
4 . When done, drain any excess water from the pan.

Return the carrots to the heat and allow excess
moisture to evaporate. Add the butter and parsley
and season with salt and pepper. Stir or toss until the
carrots are evenly coated and very hot. Serve imme
1 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat.

2 . Add the ginger, shallots, and garlic and saute until
fragrant, about 1 minute.
3 . Add the snow peas and squash and saute until ten
der, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately.
diately.
Pan-Steam ed H a rico ts V erts: S u b stitu te 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg
trim m ed haricots verts fo r the carrots. Pan steam the
haricots verts according to the above method. To f inish
the haricots verts, saute 1 tb s p /9 g minced shallot irt
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil until translucent. Add the cooked
haricots verts and toss to coat. Season with salt and
pepper and serve immediately.
Pecan C arrots: Prepare the carrots as directed above. In
step 4, add 3A oz/21 g minced shallot, V / 2 oz/43 g
honey, and 3 oz/85 g chopped toasted pecans w ith the
butter. Substitute minced chives fo r the parsley.
Makes 10 servings
Glazed Carrots
Makes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg oblique-cut carrots
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg haricots verts, cleaned
VAo z/4 3 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g butter
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL water, Chicken Stock (page

263), or Vegetable Stock (page 265), hot
1 tsp/B g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
vegetable recipes
Green Beans with

Walnuts
Salt, as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL walnut oil
3 o z/8 5 g chopped walnuts
1 . Melt the butter in a large saute pan over mediumlow heat. Add the carrots.
2 . Cover the pan and sweat the carrots for 2 to 3

minutes.
3 . Add the sugar and liquid. Season with salt and pep
per. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium
1 . Cut the green beans on the bias, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a small rondeau or large sautoir.

Add the shallots and garlic and saute over mediumhigh heat until translucent, i to 2 minutes.
3 . Add the green beans in an even layer. Add the stock.

4 . Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and pan steam the

beans until tender. The cooking liquid should reduce
heat.
4 . Cover the pan and cook the carrots over low heat
until they are almost tender, about 5 minutes.
5 . Remove the lid and continue to simmer until the

cooking liquid reduces to a glaze and the carrots are
tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
6 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve
immediately.
during this time and thicken slightly to coat the

beans. If necessary, remove the cover and continue
simmering until the liquid is almost fully reduced
and coats the vegetables, l to 2 minutes more.
5 . Toss the green beans with the oil, walnuts, and

chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
serve immediately.
685
Grilled Vegetables
Provenqal-Style
Makes 10 servings
M a rin a te d G rilled V egetables: Combine 8 f l oz/2 40 mL

vegetable oil, 2 f l o z/6 0 mL soy sauce, 2 tb sp /3 0 mL
lemon juice, 2 tsp /6 g minced garlic, and V 2 tsp /1 g
crushed fennel seeds. Marinate the zucchini, eggplant,
onion rings, and peppers fo r 1 hour, then allow any
excess marinade to drain o ff before grilling.
2 o z/5 7 g garlic cloves
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil, or as needed

2 tbsp /6 g minced rosemary
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g zucchini, cut into /H n /1 .2 5 -c m thick
slices (either on an elongated bias or lengthwise)
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g eggplant, cut into '/2-in/1.25-cm thick
slices (either on an elongated bias or lengthwise)
8 o z/2 2 7 g onion, sliced into !/2-in/1.25-cm rings
Grilled Shiitake
Mushrooms with
Soy-Sesame Glaze
Makes 10 servings
Salt, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g green pepper

6 o z/1 7 0 g red pepper
4 o z /1 13 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomato
1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar
SOY-SESAME GLAZE
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce or tamari
2 f I o z/6 0 mL peanut or corn oil
2 o z/5 7 gtahini paste
1 . Place the garlic in a large, shallow pan and add

enough oil to barely cover it. Add the rosemary
2 tsp /6 g minced ginger

V 2 tsp /1
g red pepper flakes (optional)
and simmer over very low heat until the garlic is

blanched but not falling apart, 15 to 20 minutes. Re
move from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Reserve.
2 . Brush the zucchini, eggplant, and onion rings with the
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg shiitake mushrooms
10 green onions, cleaned and root end trimmed

3/ t oz/21 g toasted sesame seeds
garlic and rosemary oil and season with salt and pep
per. Place them on the hot grill and cook on the first
side until browned. Turn once and complete cooking
on the second side until the vegetables are tender, 3
minutes total or more. Remove from the grill.
3 . Grill the peppers until evenly charred on all sides.

Remove from the grill and let the peppers cool. Re
move the skin, core, seeds, and ribs. Cut the peppers
into %-in/i.25 cm strips.
bowl. Keep refrigerated until needed.
2 . If desired, slice any large mushroom caps in half

lengthwise.
3 . Add the mushrooms and green onions to the glaze

and marinate for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.
4 . Remove the mushrooms and green onions from the

glaze, letting the excess drain away.
4 . Put the garlic and 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a large,
5 . Grill the mushrooms and green onions until marked
deep saucepan and heat over medium heat. Remove
on all sides and cooked through, about 2 minutes on
the pan from the heat. Add the grilled vegetables
each side.
and the tomatoes and stir gently to blend the flavors.

Add the vinegar and adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper. Fold in the basil and serve immediately, or
686
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the glaze in a small
6 . Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve immediately.

NOTE: Once grilled, the mushrooms can be returned to the
hold the vegetables warm for service and garnish
marinade, allowed to cool to room temperature, and
individual servings with basil.
added to salads or other dishes as a garnish.
Zucchini Pancakes
with Tzatziki
Makes
10
servings
6 . Pour enough oil into a large saute pan to come to a

depth of about Vs in/3 mm- Heat over medium-high
heat until the surface of the oil shimmers. Working
in batches, drop 2 to 3 tablespoons/30 to 45 mL of
the zucchini mixture into the oil, leaving enough
1 r /2 o z/3 2 6 g zucchini, grated

Sait, as needed
4'/z o z/1 2 8 g green onions, thinly sliced
room for the pancakes to spread as they cook.

Fry the pancakes until golden brown and cooked
through, about 3 minutes per side. Blot the cakes
on a paper towel before transferring each batch of
4 eggs
pancakes to the sheet pan in the oven to keep warm.
2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour
Replenish the oil in the pan as needed.
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped dill

VA o z/3 5 g chopped parsley
2 tbsp /6 g chopped tarragon
V2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g feta cheese, finely crumbled
3 o z/8 5 g pine nuts
TZATZIKI
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt
7 . To make the tzatziki, combine the yogurt, sour

cream, cucumber, and garlic in a food processor and
puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and fold in
the olive oil, mint, lemon juice, and zest.
8 . Stir until combined and season with salt and pepper.
Keep refrigerated until needed for service.
9 . Serve the pancakes with the tzatziki sauce on the

side.
NOTE: The pancake mixture can be prepared through step 4
up to 3 hours ahead. Cover tig h tly and refrigerate. S tir to
blend before continuing.
2'/2 o z/71 g cucumber, peeled,

seeded, and cut into small dice
1 tb sp /3 g minced mint or dill
1 ts p /5 mL lemon juice
Asparagus with
Plollandaise
Makes
10
servings
Vi ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lemon zest

Salt, as needed
HOLLANDAISE
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallots

3/ t ts p /1 .5 0 g cracked black pepper
1 . Place the zucchini in a colander. Sprinkle with 1V2

tsp/5 g salt and let stand for 30 minutes.
2 . Squeeze the zucchini to remove as much liquid as

possible. Dry the zucchini by pressing it between
several layers of paper towels.
3 . Combine the zucchini, green onions, eggs, flour,
3 tb s p /4 5 mL white wine
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL cold water

6 egg yolks
1 lb /4 5 4 g clarified butter, warm
dill, parsley, and tarragon. Season with salt and pep
per. Mix until evenly blended. Fold in the feta (see
1 ts p /3 g salt
Note).
'/4 ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper
4 . Fold in the pine nuts.
]A ts p /1 .2 5 mL hot sauce
5 . Place a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven to hold the

pancakes warm as you work.
688
2 g al/7.68 L water
2 o z/5 7 g salt
1 . To make the hollandaise, place the shallots, cracked

black pepper, white wine, and cider vinegar in a
small saucepan over medium heat. Allow to simmer
until almost dry, about 5 minutes.
2 . Pour the cold water into the pan immediately to stop

the reduction. Strain the cool mixture into a bowl
with the egg yolks and whisk together.
3 . Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water.

The water should never touch the bottom of the
bowl. Whisk the mixture until it is light and fluffy
Baked Acorn Squash

with CranberryOrange Compote
Makes 12 servings
3 acorn squash (about 1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g each)
2'A o z/7 1 g brown sugar, honey, or maple syrup

5 o z/1 4 2 g butter, diced into 12 pieces
vegetable recipes
4 lb 5 o z/1.96 kg asparagus
V/2 ts p /5 g salt, or as needed

3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground black pepper, or as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Cranberry-Orange
Compote (recipe follows)
and ribbons fall off the whisk and back into the
bowl. Remove from the heat about once a minute
and continue whisking for about 10 seconds to allow
1 . Quarter the squash and remove the seeds. Place the

squash cut side up on a sheet pan. Sprinkle with the
the temperature to stabilize, then place back on the
sugar. Place 1 cube of butter on each quarter. Season
saucepan and continue whisking. Remove from the
heat and continue whisking to prevent the mixture

from overcooking from carryover heat.
4 . Begin slowly drizzling the clarified butter into the

yolk mixture while whisking constantly. If the butter
is not incorporating completely, stop and whisk until
it has disappeared and then resume.
5 . Once the butter is completely incorporated, whisk
2 . Cover the squash with foil and bake in a 400F/

204C oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and
bake until tender, about 15 minutes more, basting
periodically.
3 . Serve each portion of the squash on a heated plate,

topped with 2 fl oz/6o mL cranberry-orange
compote.
for an additional 10 seconds and season with lemon

juice, salt, white pepper, and hot sauce.
6 . Pass through a strainer to remove clumps and serve
immediately or place in a metal container in a
i50F/66C water bath.
7 . Trim the asparagus to remove the woody part by

bending the stalk gently until it snaps.
8 . Combine the water and salt in a large stockpot and
Cranberry-Orange Compote
Makes 32 fl
0 Z/960
mL
2 lb /9 0 7 g cranberries
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL orange juice
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed
bring to a boil. Add the asparagus and boil until
4 o z/1 1 3 g orange zest, cut into fine julienne, blanched
cooked through, about 5 minutes.
Salt, as needed
9 . Drain the asparagus and serve with the hollandaise
immediately.
1 . Combine the cranberries, juice, and enough water

to barely cover the berries in a nonreactive medium
saucepan. Add the sugar and simmer over medium
heat until the berries are soft and the liquid is thick
ened, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Stir in the orange zest. Season with salt and pepper.

Serve hot.
chapter 22 CO O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
689
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg spaghetti squash
B utternut Squash
Puree
M akes 10 servings
1 o z/2 8 g butter
4 lb/1.81 kg butternut squash, halved, seeded
Salt, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
1 . Halve the squash and remove the seeds. Place the

squash, cut side down, in a medium roasting pan.
Salt, as needed
Add enough water to cover by one-third. Cover with

a lid or foil.
2 . Roast in a 375F/i9iC oven until the squash is ex
1 . Pierce the squash and place it in a medium roast

ing pan, cut side down. Add enough water to create
tremely tender, about l hour. To check for doneness,
steam during the initial roasting time. Cover with a
pierce with a kitchen fork or paring knife. There
lid or foil, if desired.
should be no resistance.
3 . When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out

the flesh, using a fork to separate it into strands.
4 . Reheat the squash by sauteing it in the butter in a

large sautoir over medium heat. Season with salt and
pepper and serve immediately.
2 . Roast in a 375F/i9iC oven until the squash is ex

tremely tender, about l hour. To check for doneness,
pierce with a kitchen fork or paring knife. There
should be no resistance. Remove the lid or foil dur
ing the final 15 minutes of cooking to brown the
squash.
3 . Remove from the oven. As soon as the squash can be

safely handled (it should still be very hot), scoop the
flesh from the skin.
4 . Puree the squash flesh using a food mill, blender, or

food processor.
5 . If necessary, transfer the puree to a medium sauce

pot and simmer over low heat to thicken.
6 . Stir in the butter and cream and season with salt and
pepper. The puree is ready to use at once, or may be
vegetable recipes
Spaghetti Squash
Curried Roasted
Cauliflower
Makes 10 servings
Oven-Roasted
Tomatoes
Makes 10 servings
2 heads cauliflower (about 4 lb/1.81 kg), core removed
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg Roma tomatoes
2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
3 fl o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 tb s p /1 3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
Vi o z/1 4 g minced garlic
2 ts p /4 g ground cumin seed
1 ts p /3 g salt, or as needed
2 tsp /2 g basil chiffonade
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper, or as needed
2 tsp /2 g chopped oregano

1 . Break the cauliflower into pieces and slice larger
Salt, as needed
pieces in half. Toss with the olive oil, curry powder,

cumin, salt, and pepper.
2 . Place the cauliflower on a parchment-lined sheet

pan and roast in a 400F/240C oven until golden
brown, about 30 minutes, turning as necessary.
Serve immediately.
1 . Remove the cores from the tomatoes and cut into

the desired shape (halves, quarters, wedges, or
slices). Arrange in a single layer skin side down on a
rack over a sheet pan.
2 . Combine the oil, garlic, shallots, basil, oregano, and

thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle or brush
this mixture over the tomatoes and turn carefully to
coat them. Make sure that the skin side is down be
fore roasting.
3 . Roast in a 275F/i35C oven until the tomatoes are

dried and lightly browned, 1 to 1V2 hours.
4 . The tomatoes are ready to serve now or use as an

ingredient in another dish, or they may be cooled on
the racks and stored, covered, under refrigeration.
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
M arinated Roasted Peppers
Makes 10 servings
Roasted Carrots
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g duck fat, lard, or vegetable oil
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg oblique-cut carrots
4 lb 4 o z/1.93 kg roasted red and

yellow peppers (see page 694)
Salt, as needed
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g golden raisins

Vi o z /1 4 g chopped parsley
2
Vits p /7 .5 0 g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
1 . Preheat a medium roasting pan in a 350F/i77C

oven. Melt the fat in the pan.
vegetable recipes
Marinated Roasted
Peppers
2 . Add the carrots, toss with the melted fat, and season
with salt and pepper. Roast the carrots until tender
and golden brown, stirring occasionally.
1 . Cut the roasted peppers into %-in/6-mm slices and

drain in a sieve or colander for 2 hours.
2 . Combine the peppers with the oil, raisins, pine nuts,

parsley, and garlic, and season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
c h a p te r 22 C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
695
Shrimp-Stuffed
Mirlitons
Makes 10 servings
Eggplant Parmesan
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg eggplant
V/2 o z/4 3 g salt
5 mirlitons or chayote squash
1 tsp /2 g ground black pepper

3 o z/8 5 g butter

2 medium green peppers, cut into small dice
2 celery ribs, cut into small dice
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 365)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs


50 f I o z/1.50 L Tomato Sauce (page 295)
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, deveined, and small-diced shrimp

Hot sauce, as needed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g mozzarella cheese,

sliced Vs in /3 mm thick (20 slices)
1 tb sp /3 g minced thyme
Salt, as needed
1 . Peel the eggplant and cut it into y2-in/i-cm circles.

You will need 40 slices total (4 per serving). Lay the
eggplant slices on a sheet pan lined with parchment
1 egg, lightly beaten
paper and lightly salt them. Set aside for 30 minutes
Vegetable oil, as needed
to release moisture.
2 . Drain the eggplant on paper towels. Season the

1 . Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over
high heat. Boil the mirlitons until tender, about 20
minutes. Drain.
2 . When cool enough to handle, cut the mirlitons in
eggplant with pepper and coat it using the standard

breading procedure (see page 365).
3 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high

heat. Working in batches, pan fry the eggplant slices
half lengthwise. Remove and discard the large center
until golden brown. Drain for 2 to 3 minutes on
seed and scoop out the pulp, leaving the shells intact
paper towels, then transfer to a rack.
with %-in/6-mm sides. Coarsely chop the pulp and

reserve.
3 . In a large saute pan, melt 2 oz/57 g of the butter
4 . Place ten 12-fl oz/360-mL casserole dishes on a sheet

pan. Spread about 2 fl oz/6o mL of tomato sauce on
the bottom of each. Lay 2 slices of the fried eggplant
over medium heat. Add the onions, green peppers,
on top of the tomato sauce. Sprinkle about V2 oz/14 g
celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the
of the Parmesan over the top and lay on 1 slice of
vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the
mozzarella. Top with about 2 fl oz/6o mL more
chopped mirliton pulp and cook for 5 minutes more.
tomato sauce and place 2 more eggplant slices on
Add the shrimp. Stir in 3 oz/85 g of the bread crumbs,

hot sauce, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
top. Evenly spread 2 tbsp/30 mL more of the tomato
4 . Let the stuffing cool slightly. Stir in the egg.

5 . Arrange the mirliton shells cut side up on an oiled
sauce on top and cover with the remaining slice of

mozzarella and V2 oz/14 g f Parmesan.
5 . Bake the eggplant in a 350F/i77C oven until golden
half sheet pan. Spoon the stuffing into the shells,
brown on top and the sauce is bubbling. Serve
sprinkle with the remaining bread crumbs, and dot
immediately.
with the remaining butter.

6 . Bake uncovered in a 350F/i77C oven, until the
stuffing is firm and the tops are golden brown, 30 to
35 minutes. Serve immediately.
Eggplant Parmesan
until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Combine with the
Makes 10 servings
beans. Add the jalapeno Jack, dry Jack, queso Chihua

hua, caciotta, marjoram, epazote, oregano, 1 tsp/3 g f
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried black beans, soaked overnight

4 o z /1 13 g dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight
10 poblano chiles
the salt, and the pepper. Mix together gently.
5 . Fill each chile with 3 oz/85 g f the filling, taking care

not to overstuff. Close the seam of the chiles around
the filling, overlapping the cut edges.
FILLING
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice onion
2 tsp /6 g minced garlic
6 . Heat the poblanos rellenos in a 350F/i77C oven un

til the filling is very hot, 18 to 20 minutes.
7 . Serve each poblano relleno with 6 tortilla chips,
1 cilantro sprig, 2 tbsp/30 mL guacamole, 1 tbsp/15 mL
4 o z /1 13 g grated jalapeno Jack
sour cream, and 2 tbsp/30 mL of summer squash salsa.
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated dry Jack

4 o z/1 1 3 g grated queso Chihuahua
vegetable recipes
Poblanos Rellenos
NOTE: The chiles can also be battered and deep fried, if

desired, as in the Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno
on page 528.
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated ancho caciotta
2 tsp /2 g chopped marjoram

I V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g dried epazote
Summer Squash Salsa
1 ts p /2 g dried Mexican oregano, crushed
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
'/2
tsp /1 g ground black pepper
60 Tortilla Chips (page 962)
10 cilantro sprigs
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Guacamole (page 958)
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Summer Squash
Salsa (recipe follows)
1 yellow squash, seeded, cut into small dice

1 zucchini, seeded, cut into small dice
V/2 o z/4 3 g small-dice carrots
6 V2 o z/1 8 4
g small-dice plum tomatoes
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice tomatillos

3 o z/8 5 g small-dice red onion
V2 o z/1 4 g minced chipotle chile

V/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g coarsely chopped marjoram
4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 . Cook each type of bean separately in simmering wa
ter until completely tender, about 90 minutes for the

black beans and 1 hour for the kidney beans. Drain
and cool to room temperature.
2 .. Wash and dry the poblanos. Roast over an open

flame on medium heat, turning them occasionally
2 tb sp /3 0 mL rice wine vinegar

'/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar
Salt, as needed
to ensure even cooking. When most of the skin is

charred and the chiles are halfway tender, place
them in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
allow them to sweat for 30 minutes.
3 . Using the back of a paring knife, remove the blis

tered skin without cutting or damaging the chiles.
Cut a slit down the length of each chile. Scrape out
the seeds, making sure to leave the chiles whole.
4 . To make the filling, sweat the onions and garlic in the

olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat
1 . Blanch the squash, zucchini, and carrots separately in

boiling salted water until just tender. Shock in an ice
water bath and drain.
2 . Combine the blanched squash, zucchini, and carrots

with the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, chipotle, mar
joram, cilantro, oil, vinegar, and sugar and mix well.
The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated
for later use.
chapter 22 C OOK I N G V E G E T A B L E S
699
Mushroom
Quesadillas with Two
Salsas
Makes 10 servings
4 . Cook the tortillas in batches in a dry medium pan

over medium heat until lightly browned on both
sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Cover the tortillas and
reserve.
5 . To make the mushroom filling, heat the oil in a

medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the
onions and garlic and saute until the onions are
FLOUR TORTILLAS
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g shortening
1 lb 3 o z/5 39 g all-purpose flour
Vi o z/1 4 g salt
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL water (90F/32C )
MUSHROOM FILLING
6 3/ o z/1 91 g onions, minced

2 lb /9 0 7 g mushrooms, sliced Va in /3 mm thick
translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms

and chiles and saute until the mushrooms are
tender, 4 to 5 minutes more.
6 . Add the lime juice, epazote, and thyme. Season
with salt and pepper. Cook until the liquid evapo
rates. Cool the mixture completely and reserve.
7 . Grate the queso Chihuahua and stir into the re

served mushroom filling.
8 . Assemble the quesadillas by dividing the mush
room filling between the flour tortillas.
9 . Cook the assembled quesadillas in a lightly oiled

cast-iron skillet over medium heat until lightly
1 tbsp /8 g minced serrano chile
browned on the outside and the filling is heated
3 f I o z/9 0 mL lime juice
through. If necessary, the quesadillas can be fin
1 tsp /1 g dried epazote

IV 2 ts p /3 g dried thyme
Salt, as needed
ished in a 35oF/i77C oven.
0 . Serve with frijoles a la charra, arroz Mexicano,

salsa roja, and salsa verde cruda.
8 o z/2 2 7 g queso Chihuahua

2 q t/1 .9 2 L Frijoles a la Charra (page 773)
2 lb /9 0 7 g Arroz Mexicano (page 782)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Salsa Roja (page 954)
1 lb 11 o z/7 6 5 g Salsa Verde Cruda (page 954)
1 . To make the flour tortillas, cut the shortening into

the flour in a medium bowl using your fingertips.
Continue to rub until the mixture reaches a mealy
consistency.
2 . Add the salt and water and mix just until a smooth
dough forms. Cover the dough and let it rest at
room temperature for 20 minutes.
3 . Divide the dough into i 3A-oz/ô-g pieces and roll

into rounds. Roll out each piece of dough on a
floured surface to about Vie in/1.50 mm thick.
Brush off any excess flour and stack the tortillas
with pieces of parchment paper in between to pre
vent sticking.
700
Makes 10 servings
5 . Combine the water and eggs. Add gradually to the

flour and butter mixture, mixing on low speed just
until a shaggy mass forms. Remove the dough from
the mixer and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let the
dough rest, refrigerated, for l hour.
2Vi f I o z/7 5 mL olive oil
6 . Divide the dough into 10 pieces on a lightly floured
6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g onions, sliced
surface. Wrap each piece of dough and refrigerate
'/2 0 z /1 4 g garlic
until needed (see Note).
10 o z/2 8 4 g zucchini, cut on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick

14 oz/B97 g yellow squash, cut on
the bias V* in/6 mm thick
7 . Roll out the dough to Vs in/3 mm thick on a lightly

floured surface. Cut the dough with a 6-in/i5-cm cut
ter. Dock with a fork and bake on a parchment-lined
vegetable recipes
Seasonal Vegetable
Tarts
sheet pan in a 350F/i77C oven until golden brown,

lib 1 o z/4 8 2 g eggplant, cut on
the bias 'A in/6 mm thick
1 2 3A o z/3 61 g plum tomatoes, cut

on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick
Salt, as needed
about 20 minutes. Let the tart shells cool completely.

8 . Evenly distribute the reserved onions and garlic
between the cooled tart shells. Arrange the reserved
vegetable mixture in circles over the onions. Bake
the tarts in a 350F/i77C oven to warm through,
about 10 minutes. Garnish with basil and serve im
2 tbsp /6 g chopped thyme
mediately.
1 o z/2 8 g pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped

PATE BRISEE
NOTE: Pate brisee can be held in the refrigerator or freezer.

Thaw the frozen dough at room temperature.
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg cake flour
3A o z/21 g salt
lib 2 o z/5 1 0 g butter, cubed
4 o z/1 1 3 g eggs
GARNISH
Basil chiffonade, as needed
1 . Heat half of the olive oil in a medium sauteuse over

medium heat. Add the onions and sweat until ten
der, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until
fragrant. Remove from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Saute the

zucchini, yellow squash, and eggplant separately
until tender. Remove each from the pan and reserve
in a bowl.
3 . Add the tomatoes to the reserved zucchini, squash,

and eggplant, toss to combine, and season with salt
and pepper. Add the thyme and olives and toss to
combine. Reserve.
4 . To make the pate brisee, combine the flour and salt

in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough
hook. Add the butter and mix until crumbly.
Chapter 22 C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
701
Sauteed Arugula
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg arugula
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable or olive oil
'/2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
Stir-Fried Shanghai
Bok Choy (Qinchao
Shanghai Baicai)
Makes 10 servings
2'/2 ts p /7.50 g minced garlic
2 lb /9 0 7 g baby bok choy
Salt, as needed
8 garlic cloves, sliced thin

Salt, as needed
1 . Wash, rinse, and drain the arugula, removing any

tough or split stems.
2 . Heat the oil in a very large saute pan, add the shal
lots, and saute over medium heat until they begin to
turn translucent, l to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and
saute until it begins to release its aroma.
3 . Add the arugula, filling the pan (the arugula will wilt
down as it sautes), and cooking in batches if neces
sary. Toss or turn the arugula as it cooks.
4 . Saute the arugula until it is completely wilted and

tender and very hot. Season with salt and pepper
and serve immediately.
Sugar, as needed
1 . Rinse the bok choy, and drain well. Cut the bok choy
lengthwise in half. Score the cores to promote even
cooking.
2 . Blanch the bok choy in boiling salted water, shock in

an ice water bath, and drain well.
3 . Heat the oil in a wok, add the garlic, and stir-fry un

til aromatic and light brown.
4 . Add the bok choy and stir-fry until the bok choy is
just cooked through. Add a small amount of water
to the wok to keep the garlic from burning, if neces
sary. Season with salt and sugar.
702
S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai)
Summer Squash
Noodles
Belgian Endive a la
Meuniere
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 6 0 g yellow squash, cut in long julienne
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Belgian endive
12 o z/3 6 0 g zucchini, cut in long julienne
1 o z/2 8 g salt, plus as needed
12 o z/3 6 0 g leeks, light green and white parts

only, cut in long julienne and blanched
12 o z/3 6 0 green beans, blanched and split lengthwise
V/ 2 o z/4 3 g butter
Salt, as needed
3A oz/2 1 g chopped herbs, such as

tarragon, basil, or cilantro
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL milk
Z A o z/6 4 g all-purpose flour

3 tb sp /4 5 mL clarified butter or oil
3 o z/8 5 g whole butter
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
1 . Toss the squash, zucchini, leeks, and green beans

together in a large bowl.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium
1 . Remove any bruised or damaged outer endive leaves

and trim the bottoms. Bring a large pot of water to a
heat. Add the vegetables and saute, tossing frequently,
boil and season with the salt, sugar, and 1 tbsp/15 mL
until they are heated through and tender, about 5
of the lemon juice. Add the endive and simmer until
minutes.
partially cooked, about 3 minutes. Drain, shock in an
3 . Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Add the

chopped herbs and serve immediately.
ice water bath, and drain well.
2 . Trim the endive cores with a sharp knife (there

should be enough core left to hold the leaves together)
and flatten each head slightly by pressing down on it
with the palm of your hand.
3 . To finish the endive, dip each head in milk, season

with salt and pepper, and dredge in flour, shaking off
the excess.
4 . Heat the clarified butter in a large heavy saute pan

over medium-high heat. Saute the endive until crisp
and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total cook
ing time. Remove the endive from the pan and keep
warm.
5 . Pour off any excess fat from the pan. Add the whole
butter and cook over medium heat until it begins to
brown and take on a nutty aroma. Add the remain
ing lemon juice and the parsley and swirl until the
mixture thickens slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the
pan sauce over the endive and serve immediately.
704
d i
B r o c c o l i
c o n A g l i o
Jardiniere Vegetables
Makes 10 servings
9 o z/2 5 5 g carrots, cut into batonnet
9 o z/2 5 5 g celery, cut into batonnet
9 o z/2 5 5 g white turnips, cut into batonnet
9 o z/2 5 5 g shelled green peas
Pepperoncino)
4 o z /1 1 3 g b u tte r
Makes 10 servings
Salt, as needed
4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli rabe, washed

and tough stems trimmed
vegetable recipes
Broccoli Rabe with

Garlic and Hot
Crushed Pepper (Cime
Sugar, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced garlic

VA ts p /2.50 g red pepper flakes
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
Salt, as needed
VA ts p /4 .5 0 g finely grated lemon zest
1 . In a large stockpot, blanch the carrots, celery, tur

nips, and peas separately in boiling salted water, 1
to 2 minutes, drain, shock in an ice bath, and drain
again.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium

heat. Add the vegetables (by individual servings or
batches) and season with salt, pepper, and sugar.
1 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in

small batches, add the broccoli rabe and cook until
tender but firm, about 3 minutes. Shock the broccoli
Toss or stir until the vegetables are evenly coated

with the butter and very hot.
3 . Add parsley and serve immediately.
rabe in an ice water bath and drain very well. Refrig

erate if it is to be finished later.

heat. Add the garlic and pepper flakes and saute un
til the garlic is lightly golden, about 2 minutes.
3 . Add the broccoli rabe and stock and cook over high
heat, mixing the broccoli rabe thoroughly to distrib
ute the garlic and peppers evenly. Cook until most of
the liquid evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Season with salt and lemon juice. Serve immedi

ately, garnished with the zest.
705
Vegetable Julienne
Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 13 g carrots, cut into julienne
Macedoine of
Vegetables
Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 13 g celery, cut into julienne

2 o z/5 7 g butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g leeks, light green and white
parts only, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g large-dice mushrooms
2 o z/5 7 g butter
V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g large-dice onion
4 o z/1 1 3 g large-dice celery
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice zucchini
1 . In a large stock pot, blanch the carrots, celery, and

leeks separately in boiling salted water, l to 2 min
utes. Drain, shock in an ice water bath, and drain
again.
2 . Heat the butter in a medium saute pan over medium

heat. Add the vegetables (by individual servings or
batches) and season with salt and pepper. Toss or stir
until the vegetables are evenly coated with the butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice yellow squash

6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice carrots,
steamed or boiled until tender
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice white turnips,

6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice rutabagas,
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red pepper
and very hot.

Minced chives, as needed
Chopped tarragon, as needed
Basil chiffonade, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the mushrooms and shallots and
cook, stirring from time to time, until the juices have
reduced, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Add the onions and celery and saute until the onions
are translucent, about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the zucchini and squash and saute until they are
4 . Add the carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and red peppers.

Saute them until heated through, 2 minutes more.
5 . Add chives, tarragon, and basil and toss to mix. Sea

son with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or hold
hot for service. If holding hot for service, add the
herbs just before serving.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S . A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes
10
servings
1 . Slice the zucchini on the bias, V2 in/i cm thick. Blot

dry with paper towels.
2 . Pour the oil into a medium saute pan or cast-iron

skillet to about 2 in/5 cm deep. Heat to 325F/i63C.
3 . Season the zucchini slices with salt, dredge in flour,
4 eggs
and shake off the excess. Dip them into the batter to
coat both sides evenly. Allow any excess batter to drain
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar
2 lb /9 0 7 g spinach, blanched, squeezed
dry, coarsely chopped
1 ts p /3 g salt
back into the bowl. Carefully lay the zucchini in the

hot fat. Pan fry on the first side until browned, 1 to 2
minutes. Turn carefully and complete cooking on the
second side until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes more.
vegetable recipes
Spinach Pancakes
4 . Remove the zucchini from the oil, blot on paper
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper
towels, and adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary.
V* ts p /0.50 g freshly grated nutmeg
Serve immediately.
1 . Mix the milk, butter, and eggs until thoroughly

combined.
2 . In a separate large bowl, stir together the flour and

sugar. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture
and pour in the milk mixture. Stir until a smooth
batter forms.
3 . Combine the spinach with the batter and season

with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
4 . Heat a small amount of the oil in a medium saute
Corn Fritters
M akes
10
servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg corn kernels, freshly

cooked or thawed frozen
2 eggs, beaten
2 o z/5 7 g Cheddar, grated (optional)
pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Ladle
2 o z/5 7 g sugar
2 fl oz/6o mL of the batter into the pan for each pan
1 ts p /3 g salt, as needed
cake. Cook the pancakes for 2 to 3 minutes, until the

undersides are golden brown.
5 . Turn the pancakes and continue to cook until golden

brown, 3 to 4 minutes more. Serve immediately or
transfer to a holding pan to keep them hot for
service.

8 fl o z/2 4 0
mL
oil, or as needed
1 . Combine the corn and eggs, and the cheese, if desired,

in a small bowl. Combine the flour, sugar, salt, and
pepper in a separate bowl and make a well in the cen
ter. Add the corn mixture to the flour mixture all at
once. Stir just until a relatively smooth batter forms.
Pan-Fried Zucchini
M akes
10
servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg zucchini
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
2 . Heat about V2 in/i cm of the oil in a medium saute

pan or cast-iron skillet to 365F/i85C. Ladle 2
tbsp/30 mL of batter for each fritter into the oil.
3 . Fry on the first side until golden brown, 2 to 3 min

utes. Turn once and finish frying on the second side,
2 minutes more. Blot on paper towels, adjust season
ing with salt, if necessary, and serve while very hot.

1 lb 10 o z /7 3 7 g Beer Batter (page 522)
ch a p te r 22 C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
707
Vegetable Tempura
Makes
10
servings
8 f I o z/2 40 mL peanut oil

Tostones: Slice the p l a n t a i n s i n / 1 cm thick and fry as

above. Press them to a thickness o f about ' A in /6 mm
w ith a heavy, fla t-b o tto m e d object. Combine 8 f I oz/2 40
mL water, 1 o z/2 8 g salt, and 4 minced garlic cloves.
Dip the plantain slices in this mixture. Shake o ff excess
water and deep fry a second time. Drain on paper towels
and sprinkle w ith salt. Serve immediately.
2 chefs potatoes, cut into strips

Vs to '/* in /3 to 6 mm thick
2 onions, cut into rings Vs to V* in /3 to 6 mm thick
2 carrots, cut into strips Vs to '/t in /3 to 6 mm thick
1 lb /4 5 4 g green beans, cut 2 in /5 cm long
Ratatouille
Makes
10
servings
20 shiso leaves
3 f I o z/9 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g lotus root, peeled and

cut into Vs-\r\/3-mm slices
3/ t oz/21 g minced garlic
Tempura Batter (page 523), as needed

4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice red pepper
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tempura Dipping Sauce (page 523)
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice eggplant
1 . Combine the vegetable, peanut, and sesame oils in a

deep pan and heat to 330 to 340F/i66 to 171C.
2 . Lightly dredge the vegetables in flour, dip in the bat

ter, and immediately fry them until crispy and white
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice zucchini
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomato

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or
Vegetable Stock (page 265), or as needed
or light golden brown. Work in batches as necessary,
Salt, as needed
frying a single variety of vegetable at a time.
3 . Drain the tempura on a rack lined with paper towels.
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped herbs, such as
4 . Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.
thyme, parsley, and/or oregano
1 . Heat the oil in a large pot or rondeau over medium

heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent,
Fried Plantain Chips

M akes
10
servings

3 plantains, green and unripe
Salt, as needed
4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until soft,

about 1 minute.
2 . Turn the heat to medium-low. Add the tomato paste

and cook until it completely coats the onions and
develops a deeper color, 1 to 2 minutes.
3 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence: pep

pers, eggplant, zucchini, and tomatoes. Cook each
vegetable until it softens (2 to 3 minutes each) be
1 . Heat the oil to 350F/i77C in a rondeau or fryer.
2 . Peel the plantains and slice very thin on the bias

(about V16 in/1.50 mm).
3 . Fry the plantains, turning often, until they are gold
fore adding the next.
4 . Add the stock and turn the heat to low, allowing the
vegetables to stew. (The vegetables should be moist
but not soupy.) Stew until the vegetables are tender
en brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Work in batches if neces
and flavorful. Season with salt, pepper, and herbs.
sary. Drain on paper towels and season with salt as
Serve immediately.
soon as they are out of the fryer. Serve immediately.
Braised Greens
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg collard greens or kale
Braised Fennel in
Butter
Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced bacon
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg fennel
6 o z /1 7 0 g butter
10 f I o z/3 0 0
mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Chicken Stock (page

2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
lt b s p /1 5 g sugar
1 ham hock
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar
1 . Cut the stalks from the fennel and trim the root
1 . Strip the collard leaves from the stems and cut into
bite-size pieces.
2 . In a large saute pan, render the bacon over medium
ends. Cut from the stem to root end to make halves

or quarters, depending upon the size of the bulbs.
2 . Heat half of the butter in a medium rondeau over
heat. When the bacon is light gold, add the onions
medium-high heat. Add the fennel, turn to coat
and garlic and sweat until aromatic.
evenly with the butter, and allow the fennel to
3 . Add the greens, deglaze with some of the stock, and

reduce by half. Stir in the sugar.
4 . Add the ham hock and the remaining stock. Season

with salt and pepper. Braise in a 350F/i77C oven
until tender, 30 to 45 minutes.
5 . Remove the greens and ham hock from the pan and
reserve. Add the vinegar to the juices and reduce the
liquid by half. Combine the reduced liquid back with
the greens and adjust seasoning with salt and pep
per. Remove the meat from the ham hock and add to
the finished greens, if desired. Serve immediately.
brown slightly. Add the stock and season with lemon

juice, salt, and pepper.
3 . Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and braise the fen

nel in a 325F/i63C oven until it is very tender but
still holds its shape, 45 minutes to 1 hour. The liquid
should be nearly cooked away; if necessary, simmer
over medium heat until it has reduced.
4 . Remove the cover from the pan and sprinkle the Par
mesan in an even layer over the fennel. Dot with the
remaining butter.
5 . Place the fennel, uncovered, in a 450F/232C oven

or under a broiler or salamander until the butter and
cheese form a golden crust. Serve immediately.
Braised Romaine
M akes
M akes
10
servings
10
servings
B tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil or rendered bacon fat
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg romaine lettuce
2 '/2 o z /7 1 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, medium-dice Granny Smith apples
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced carrots
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 265), Chicken

Stock (page 263), or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
1 o z /2 8 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g red currant jelly
1 cinnamon stick
1 clove
Salt, as needed
vegetable recipes
Braised Red Cabbage
6 o z/1 7 0 g slab bacon, rind removed

and sliced Vs in /3 mm thick
1 bay leaf
B juniper berries
2 lb /90 7g red cabbage chiffonade
Vegetable Stock (page 2 6 5 ) or water, as needed
1 . Trim the romaine to remove any blemishes or wilted

leaves. Trim the cores of any discoloration. Bring a
large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the whole
heads for 1 minute, until the color turns bright and
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
the leaves are softened. Drain the lettuce, rinse in
cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again.
2 . To make individual servings, cut the romaine length

1 . Heat the oil or bacon fat in a large nonreactive pot or
wise into 10 equal wedge-shaped servings. Cut
rondeau over medium-low heat. Add the onions and
away the cores. Roll up each portion into a cylinder,
apples and sweat until the onions are translucent
squeezing out excess water as you roll. To make larger
and the apples are slightly soft, about 5 minutes.
2 !. Add the water, wine, vinegar, sugar, and jelly. The

flavor should be tart and strong.
3 . Make a sachet with the cinnamon, clove, bay leaf,

and juniper berries. Add the sachet and cabbage to
the pan. Cover and braise in a 35oF/i77C oven un
til the cabbage is tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Check
regularly to be sure the liquids have not evaporated
completely. Add more stock or water if necessary.
4 . Remove the sachet. Season with the salt and pepper

servings that can be sliced for service, remove the

larger outer leaves and arrange them to form a large
rectangle on a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment
paper. Remove the cores from the heads and arrange
the leaves evenly over the outer leaves. Roll up as for
a jelly roll, squeezing to remove the water.
3 . Heat the butter in a medium rondeau over medium

heat. Add the onions and carrots and sweat over low
heat until they are tender and starting to release their
juices, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the romaine in an even
layer. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Season with
salt and pepper. Top the romaine with the bacon.
4 . Cover the pan and braise in a 350F/i77C oven until

the romaine is very tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove
the cover during the final 10 minutes of cooking time
to properly reduce the cooking liquid and brown the
bacon.
5 . Remove the romaine and bacon from the braising liq

uid and keep warm. Degrease the liquid and adjust sea
soning with salt and pepper. Reduce the liquid further
to form a sauce and concentrate the flavor, if necessary.
6 . Serve the romaine and bacon with the sauce on heat
ed plates.
711
Braised Sauerkraut
French-Style Peas
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL rendered pork fa t or vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g pearl onions
7 o z/1 9 8 g peeled and grated Golden Delicious apple
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 shelled green peas
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated chef's potatoes
12 o z/3 4 0 g Boston lettuce chiffonade
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Homemade Sauerkraut (page 593)
1 tsp /2 g caraway seeds
Salt, as needed
12 juniper berries
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page

2 6 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
3 tb s p /2 5 g all-purpose flour
1 . Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the

1 . Heat the pork fat in a large rondeau over medium
pearl onions and blanch for 1 minute. Remove the
heat. Add the onions and apples and sweat until ten
onions, rinse in cool water until they can be han
der and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
dled, and remove the skins.
2 . Add the potatoes and sweat until they appear
2 . Heat 2 oz/57 g of the butter in a large saute pan over
somewhat translucent, a few minutes more. Add
low heat and add the pearl onions. Cook, covered,
the sauerkraut, caraway seeds, juniper berries, and
until they are tender and translucent, 8 to 10
stock and bring to a boil. Cover and braise in a
minutes.
325F/i63C oven until the stock has nearly cooked

away and the sauerkraut has a good flavor, i to 1V2
hours. If the sauerkraut has too much liquid, place it
on top of the stove and reduce the liquid as
necessary.
3 . The sauerkraut is ready to serve now, or may be rap

3 . Add the peas, lettuce, and stock to the onions. Sea

son with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer
over low heat and return the lid to the pan. Stew the
peas until fully cooked and tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Blend the remaining butter with the flour and add

gradually to the peas in small pieces until the cook
ing liquid is lightly thickened. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper if necessary and serve on heated
plates.
The po tato is one o f the most versatile vegetables. It is found in

n e a rly jv e ry menu category, as the main component of appetizers
souo||pentrees, and side dishes; it is also an important ingredient
in sich preparations as souffles, pancakes, and breads.
potato varieties
P o ta to v a rie tie s d iffe r in starch and m o istu re con te n t, skin and fle s h color, and shape.
Sw eet p o ta to e s and yams, although n o t b o ta n ica lly re la te d to th e p o ta to , share several
ch a ra c te ris tic s w ith it and can be tre a te d in the same manner. Each cooking technique p ro
duces a m arke dly d iffe re n t te x tu re , flavo r, and appearance in p o ta to e s. Knowing the na tu
ral c h a ra cte ristics o f each kind o f p o ta to and the ways in which a p a rtic u la r tech niq ue can
e ith e r enhance o r d e tra c t fro m these c h a ra cte ristics is im p o rta n t to any chef.
LOW M O IS T U R E /H IG H STARCH
P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include Idaho or russe t (also known as baking or bakers), purple
po ta to e s, and some fin g e rlin g va rie tie s. The higher th e sta rch con tent, the m ore granular
and d ry a p o ta to is a fte r it is cooked. The fle s h is easy to fla k e o r mash. These po ta to e s, de
sirable fo r baking and pureeing, are also good fo r fry in g because th e lo w -m o istu re co n te n t
makes the m less like ly to sp la tte r. Their na tural ten den cy to absorb m o istu re also makes
them a good choice fo r scalloped or o th e r en casserole p o ta to dishes.
MODERATE M OISTU R E AND STARCH

P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include so-called all-purpose, boiling, ch e fs, Maine, and US 1. It
also includes red-skin, w axy yellow (e.g., Yellow Finn and Yukon Gold), and ce rta in fin g e r
ling va rie tie s. P ota to es w ith m od era te am ounts o f m o istu re and starch ten d to hold th e ir
shape even a fte r th e y are cooked u n til tender. This makes the m a good choice f o r boiling,
steam ing, sauteing, oven roa sting , and as a com ponent o f braises and stew s. They are f r e
q u e n tly used in p o ta to salads and soups. M any chefs like to use w axy y e llo w p o ta to e s fo r
baking, pureeing, and ca sse ro le -style dishes because o f th e ir o u ts ta n d in g flavor.
HIGH M O IS T U R E /L O W STARCH
P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include "new" (any p o ta to th a t is harvested when less than I V 2
in /4 cm in d iam e te r) and some fin g e rlin g va rie tie s. The skin o f new p o ta to e s is te n d e r and
does n o t need to be rem oved p rio r to cooking or eating. T heir n a tu ra lly sweet, fre s h fla v o r
is be st showcased by sim ple techniques such as boiling, steam ing, or oven roasting.
7H
c r
o
i
B
oiled
In
the
potatoes
a b s en c e
are
of
a m o n g
aro m atic
the
or
sim ple st
of
suppo rting
p r epa r a tio n s
f l a v o r s
w ith
attention
s u b t le
m u st
be
ea r th y
fo cu sed
fla v o r
on
good
T E C H N I Q U E A N D C A R E F U L S E L E C T I O N A N D H A N D L I N G O F T H E POTATO I TS EL F. E A C H POTATO V A R I E T Y
H A S A U N I Q. U E T E X T U R E A N D T A S T E O N C E B O I L E D . S O M E P O T A T O E S H O L D T H E I R S H A P E E V E N W H E N
i*
CTQ
BOILED U NT IL V E R Y TEN DER , AN D HA V E A SOFT, SM O O TH C O N S I S T E N C Y . O T H E R S H A V E A M E A L I E R

C O N S I S T E N C Y A N D A T E N D E N C Y TO B R E A K A P A R T W H E N F U L L Y C O O K E D . B O T H B O I L E D A N D S T E A M E D
P O T A T O E S C A N B E C O O K E D TO A R A N G E O F D O N E N E S S : P A R T I A L L Y C O O K E D F O R S A U T E E D D I S H E S , F U L L Y
P J
COOKED FOR PUREES, AND COOKED AND COOLED FOR SALADS.
C+ -
boiling potatoes
M o d e ra te - o r h ig h -m o istu re p o ta to e s are a good choice fo r dishes w here th e p o ta to e s
are p re sen te d whole, since the y hold th e ir shape when boiled. L o w -m o istu re p o ta to e s are
p re fe ra b le fo r purees.
Scrub th e p o ta to e s or peel the m and rem ove any eyes and sp ro u ts. P ota to es may be
peeled b e fo re boiling; te n d e r-skin n e d fin g e rlin g s o r new p o ta to e s are usually prepared
unpeeled, called en chemise in French. If th e p o ta to e s are to be cooked whole, tr y to make
sure th e y are s im ila r in size. If necessary, cu t th e p o ta to e s in to regular, even shapes or
cook d iffe re n t-s iz e p o ta to e s in separate vessels.
Green spo ts in a p o ta to m ust be peeled away com pletely. The green color indicates the
presence o f a to xin called solanine, which is harm ful when eaten in large q u an tities. This same
to xin is pre sen t in the p o ta to spro uts and eyes; the y should be com p le te ly removed as well.
Raw p o ta to e s w ill o xidize and disco lo r a fte r the y are peeled, f ir s t tu rn in g lig h t pink and
eventually, dark gray or black. To pre ve n t th is d isco lo ra tio n , subm erge peeled o r cut raw
p o ta to e s in cold w a te r u n til tim e to cook. When possible, use the soaking w a te r to cook the
p o ta to e s so any n u trie n ts leached in to it are retaine d. However, p o ta to e s are be st peeled
ju s t p rio r to cooking.
To ensure th a t p o ta to e s cook evenly, s ta rt the m in a cold liquid, usually w ater, though
som e recipes sp e cify s to ck or m ilk f o r a special flavo r, te x tu re , or appearance. S alt is usu
ally added to th e cooking liquid. If using salt, add enough to enhance th e p o ta to 's flavor.
Spices can be added to th e b o ilin g liquid as well; s a ffro n o r tu rm e ric gives bo ile d p o ta to e s
a golden co lo r and special flavo r. If parcooking, add s lig h tly m ore s a lt than if fu lly cooking
th e p o ta to e s. P ota to es should never be shocked in cold w a te r a fte r cooking. The p o ta to e s
w ill absorb w a te r as th e y cool and becom e unpalatable.
A p ro p e rly boiled p o ta to has a delicate arom a and fla v o r and a s o ft te x tu re . Boiled p o ta
toe s to be served as is should hold th e ir shape but s till be e xtre m e ly tender. Seasonings add
ed to th e cooking water, as w ell as any a d ditiona l fin ish in g or garnishing ingredients, should
be a p pro pria te to the fin ish e d dish.
The eq uipm en t needed fo r b o iling p o ta to e s is sim ple: a cooking p o t large enough to
hold th e w a te r and po ta to e s, a s lo tte d spoon or colander f o r draining th e p o ta to e s, and
ho ld ing containers. S heet pans may be used to hold th e p o ta to e s in a single layer fo r quick
coo lin g or drying.
ch a p te r 23 CO O KING POTATOES
715
basic formula
Boiled Potatoes
(10 servings)
Enough cold liquid to completely

submerge the potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate- or high-
moisture potatoes (weighed before

peeling and cutting), or
3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
e x p e rt tips |
1. Place the potatoes in a pot.

2. Add enough cold liquid to
cover them.
Potatoes can be prepped diffe ren tly, dependingon
3. Bring the liquid to a boil.
the desired end result. The prep method used can also have an effect on flavor
4 . Reduce the heat to
and texture of the finished product. Factors to consider include:
establish a simmer.
S IZ E OF POTATO / PEELED V E R S U S S K IN ON / T Y P E OF CUT
5. Simmer to the correct
doneness.
6. Drain and dry the potatoes.
Serve immediately, puree,
or hold fo r another use.
Other ingredients
can be added to develop additional flavor. Add
at the appropriate time, usually after the potatoes have been boiled:
FRESH HERB S / GR OU N D S P IC E S / R OASTED G ARLIC
1. place the potatoes
in a p o t o f an ap
p ro p ria te size and cover c o m p le te ly w ith cold w a te r. Add

s a lt a n d /o r o th e r seasonings as necessary to th e cooking
liquid. S ta rtin g th e coo kin g process w ith cold liquid allow s
the heat to p e n e tra te slo w ly and evenly, g ivin g th e p o ta
to e s a u n ifo rm te x tu re w ith o u t ove rco o kin g th e e x te rio r
flesh . B rin g to a bo il and cook a t a sim m e r o r low bo il u n til
the p o ta to e s are done.
To te s t f o r doneness, ta s te a piece or pierce w ith the
tin e s o f a fo rk . If th e re is no resista nce , the p o ta to e s are
p ro p e rly cooked. If th e p o ta to e s are to be only p a rtia lly
cooked, th e re should be in crea sing re sista n ce as th e fo rk
is in se rte d deeper in to th e p o ta to .
Drain the p o ta to e s as soon as th e y are done and dry
the m to im p rove th e ir fla v o r and te x tu re . P o ta to e s can
be dried by re tu rn in g th e m to th e p o t and placin g th e pot,
uncovered, over v e ry low heat. Or spread the m o u t in a
single layer on a she et pan and place th e pan in a w arm
oven. P o ta to e s are s u ffic ie n tly d ried when stea m no lo n
ger rises fro m them .
If th e p o ta to e s w ere cooked in th e skin, rem ove the
skin as soon as th e y are cool enough to handle. Use a p a r
ing k n ife to rem ove eyes o r black spots. To hold p o ta to e s
fo r a s h o rt tim e (less than an hour), cover the m loosely
w ith a damp, clean c lo th and keep warm .
STEAMING POTATOES
Steaming can be used as an alternative
When using a stovetop steamer, re
to boiling. To properly steam potatoes,
member that the larger the potatoes, the
prepare them as for boiling, taking care to
longer the cooking time and the more
make even cuts or to select like-size whole
liquid will be required. Bring the cooking
potatoes to cook in the same batch. The
liquid in the bottom of the steamer to a
potatoes should be arranged in even layers
rolling boil before adding the potato-filled
on racks or in perforated hotel pans or in
inserts or tiers. The potatoes should be
serts to let the steam circulate completely
arranged so that the steam can circulate
and encourage thorough, rapid cooking.
around them. Do not stack the potatoes
Convection or pressure steamers are
or overcrowd the tiers or inserts. Various
good for steaming large quantities of po
herbs, spices, or aromatic vegetables may
tatoes. They allow for the preparation of
be added to the cooking liquid or directly
batches as needed throughout a meal
to the potatoes to allow the steam to carry
period, and they are well suited to the
the flavor to the potatoes.
intense demands of a banquet or institu

tional feeding situation.
c h a p te r 23 C O O KING POTATOES
717
P U R E E D POTATOES A R E AN IMPORTA NT BASIC PR EPAR ATION. T h e P U R E E CAN BE B L E N D E D WITH MILK

A N D B U T T E R TO M A K E W H I P P E D P O T A T O E S , W I T H E G G Y O L K S T O M A K E D U C H E S S E P O T A T O E S O R P O T A T O
C R O O . U E T T E S , O R W I T H P A T E A C H O U X TO F R Y A S P O M M E S L O R E T T E . P O T A T O E S TO B E P U R E E D A R E F I R S T
C O O K E D B Y B O I L I N G , S T E A M I N G , O R B A K I N G IN T H E S K I N .
pureeing potatoes
Low- to m o d e ra te -m o istu re po ta to e s, such as russe ts and m ealy ye llo w p o ta to e s, make
th e be st purees. Have ready boile d or steam ed p o ta to e s th a t have been drained and dried
and th a t are s till very hot. H ot baked p o ta to e s may also be used.
In a d d itio n to s a lt and pepper, which are stan dard seasonings f o r pureed po tatoes,
many o th e r in g re d ie n ts may be added f o r special fla vo rs. A fte r th e y are pureed, the po
ta to e s may be fla v o re d w ith oil, b u tte r, cream, garlic, o r o th e r veg etab le purees. A ll ad
d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts should e ith e r be heated to th e same te m p e ra tu re as the puree or at
room te m p e ra tu re . Choices include m ilk or cream, s o ft (no t m elte d) b u tte r, chicken or m eat
bro th , g a rlic, sha llo ts, green onions, horseradish, m ustard, cheese, o r purees o f o th e r veg
etables, such as parsnips o r celeriac. Egg yolks or pate a choux are needed f o r duchesse
and L o re tte p o ta to e s.
A fo o d m ill or p o ta to rice r gives th e be st te x tu re f o r pureed po ta to e s. Use a handheld
p o ta to m asher fo r a coarser te x tu re . Pureed p o ta to e s may be blended w ith o th e r in g re d i
ents by hand using a wooden spoon or w ith an e le c tric m ixe r fo r w hipped po ta to e s. Food
processors and blenders should be avoided to pre ven t the p o ta to e s fro m ta k in g on a gluey
te x tu re . A p a s try bag w ith s ta r a n d /o r plain tip s w ill be needed if th e puree is to be decorativ e ly piped on to pla te s o r shaped in various ways.
718
pureeing potatoes
Q basic formula
Pureed Potatoes
(10 servings)
4 lb/1.81 kg low-moisture
potatoes (weighed before
peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4
oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
12 to 16 fl oz/360 to 480
mL milk or heavy cream
4 to 8 o z/1 13 to 227 g butter, soft
Salt, pepper, and/or
other seasonings
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
ex p ert tips
j. Cook the potatoes by

boiling, steaming, or baking
until they are tender.
2. Dry steamed or boiled
potatoes on a sheet pan in

a medium oven.
3. Puree the potatoes
through a ricer, food mill,

or sieve.
4 . Add eggs, heated milk or
cream, or s o ft butter, as
needed.
5. Adjust the seasoning as
needed.
6 . Serve or hold the potatoes
warm.
Basic pureed potatoes
contain milk, butter, salt, and pepper,
but there are many additional ingredients that can be added or substituted to
suit your needs or taste.
Milk is probably the most common liquid usedfor

making pureed potatoes. Try substituting some or all of the milk with one of
the following to create a different flavor and texture:
BROTH (V E G E TA B LE , POULTRY, BEEF, OR V E A L ) / H E A V Y C RE A M / STOCK
Other COmmOn flavoring
and seasoning ingredients include,
but are not limited to:

M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN O N IO N S / CHO PPED HERBS SUCH AS PARSLEY,
R O SEM A R Y , OR SAGE / GRATED C HEESE / O L IV E O IL / PUREED VEGETAB LES
SU CH AS CAR R O TS, B U T T E R N U T S Q U A SH , OR C E LER IA C / R OASTED OR S A U
TEED GARLIC
c h a p te r 23 C O O K IN G POTATOES
719
1. cook the potatoes by boiling, ste a m

ing, or baking u n til very tender. W arm th e m ilk or cream.
P o ta to e s m ay be peeled and q u a rte re d or cubed b e fo re
coo kin g to sh o rte n coo kin g and d ryin g tim e when b o iling
(see page 7 1 5 ) or ste a m in g (see page 717). To bake po
ta to e s f o r use in purees, leave the m w hole and in th e skin
(see page 72 3). Season, pierce, and bake u n til very tender.
When th e y are done, im m e d ia te ly halve the m and scoop
o u t the fle sh . Use a clean side to w e l to p ro te c t your hands
as you w ork.
Push hot, drained, and dried p o ta to e s th ro u g h a
w arm ed fo o d m ill o r ricer. For b e st resu lts, th e p o ta to e s
m ust be h o t and th e e q u ip m e n t heated. P rop erly cooked
p o ta to e s should pass th ro u g h th e fo o d m ill w ith no re sis
tance. Check th e bow l p e rio d ic a lly to make sure th a t it is
n o t g e ttin g o ve rfu ll. Do n o t use a b len der or fo o d p ro ces
sor; th e te x tu re o f th e p o ta to may becom e soupy, sticky,
and unable to hold its shape. Large q u a n titie s o f p o ta to e s
may be run th ro u g h th e coarse die o f a g rin d e r d ire c tly
in to th e bow l o f a mixer.
2. add seasonings
and any a d d itio n a l in g re
d ie n ts as desired or acco rding to th e recipe. Be sure th a t

o th e r in g re d ie n ts are a t th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re when
added. M ilk or cream should be a t or near a simm er. B u t
te r should be s o ft. Season th e p o ta to puree c a re fu lly w ith
s a lt and pepper.
S tir or fo ld in such fla v o rin g s as pureed roa ste d garlic.
S tir w ith a spoon by hand or use th e paddle o f an e le c tric
mixer. Do n o t ove rw o rk; th is w ill release to o much starch
fro m th e p o ta to e s, g ivin g th e puree a heavy, s tic k y con
sistency.
720
pureeing potatoes
3. to make duchesse potatoes,

blend p o ta to puree as th e recipe on page 7 3 7 sp e cifie s
and pipe even p o rtio n s on p a rc h m e n t-lin e d sheet pans.
P o ta to puree can also be m ounded o r piped on to serving
plates.
Pureed p o ta to e s may be held f o r service over a hot
w a te r bath o r in a stea m ta b le , covered d ire c tly on the
surface w ith p la s tic w rap. Do n o t hold purees f o r to o long,
o r th e q u a lity w ill begin to degrade.
4. bake duchesse potatoes u n til a

rich golden brown, as shown here. A good p o ta to puree is
sm ooth, lig h t in te x tu re , and able to hold its shape when
dropped fro m a spoon. It should be a c o n s is te n tly cream y
puree, w ith no evidence th a t f a t has separated fro m the
puree.
Purees to be used in dishes th a t are sub seq ue ntly
baked, sauteed, o r deep frie d may be re frig e ra te d f o r up
to several hours. Once th e fin a l coo kin g is com p le te d, the y
should be served im m e d ia te ly.
721
T h e c l a s s i c b a k e d p o t a t o is s e r v e d in i t s c r i s p SK IN a n d g a r n i s h e d w i t h b u t t e r , s a l t , p e p p e r ,
AN D PE R H A PS S O U R CR EA M AN D C H IV E S . W H E N
P O T A T O E S A R E C O O K E D IN A N O V E N W I T H O U T A N Y
A D D E D L I Q . U I D OR S T E A M , T H E Y
D E V E L O P A N I N T E N S E F L A V O R A N D A D R Y , L I G H T T E X T U R E . HlGH"
STARCH
OR RU S S E T S
POTATOES
LIK E
ID A H O S
BECOME
FLUFFY
AND
ABSORBENT. THE
H IG H E R TH E
M O I S T U R E C O N T E N T O F T H E PO T A T O , T H E C R E A M I E R A N D M O I S T E R T H E B A K E D P O T A T O W I L L BE.
baking and
roasting potatoes
Baked p o ta to e s are o fte n served as is, w ith th e ir skins, b u t th e re are o th e r uses and p re
se n ta tio n s fo r them . The fle sh can be scooped fro m th e shell and pureed. This puree can be
served on its own o r re tu rn e d to th e h o llo w e d -o u t skin in th e p re p a ra tio n known as s tu ffe d
or tw ice -b a ke d p o ta to e s. When oven roasting, th e p o ta to e s are cooked in oil, b u tte r, or
rendered ju ice s fro m a ro a ste d ite m and cooked u n til brow ned on the ou tside and com
p le te ly te n d e r on th e inside.
L o w -m o istu re p o ta to e s are ge ne rally be st fo r baking, although yellow w axy p o ta to e s
also yie ld good resu lts. Low- o r h ig h -m o istu re p o ta to e s may be used f o r oven roasting.
Scrub p o ta to e s well. For a re la tiv e ly th ick-skin n e d p o ta to , a brush w o rks well. For new po
ta to e s, use a cloth. B lo t th e p o ta to e s d ry b e fo re placing the m in a pan, to prevent an excess
o f steam when the y s ta r t to bake. Pierce the skin in a fe w places to allow the steam th a t
builds up du rin g baking to escape.
Never w rap th e p o ta to in fo il b e fo re baking; th e re s u lt is sim ila r to steam ing. The skin
w ill not becom e crisp, and th e re is a no ticea ble fla v o r d iffe re n ce . For th e same reasons,
baked p o ta to e s cannot be prepared succe ssfully in a m icrow ave oven. Some chefs believe
th a t baking p o ta to e s on a bed o f s a lt or rubbing th e skin lig h tly w ith oil encourages the
de velopm e nt o f a crisp skin and a delicate, f lu f f y in te rio r.
For ove n-ro asted po ta to e s, scrub o r peel them and cu t in to the desired shape. Toss in
fa t (fa t and d ripp ing s fro m roa ste d m eats, oil, c la rifie d b u tte r, lard, goose fa t, and so on)
and season as desired w ith s a lt and pepper, fre s h o r d ried herbs, a n d /o r spices.
Evaluate the q u a lity o f the fin ish e d baked or roa ste d po tatoes. A p ro p e rly baked p o ta to
has very crisp skin and is te n d e r enough to mash easily when fu lly cooked. Serve baked
or ro a ste d p o ta to e s as soon as th e y are done. This assures the b e st possible flavo r, good
te x tu re , and o p tim a l service te m p e ra tu re .
E quipm ent needs fo r baking p o ta to e s are m inim al. The only tru ly e sse ntia l piece o f
eq uipm en t is the oven. P ota to es can be placed d ire c tly on the oven racks; the y can also be
arranged on she et pans, m aking it easier to move the m in and o u t o f the oven, p a rtic u la rly
when dealing w ith large q u a n titie s. Pureeing equipm ent, such as a p o ta to rice r o r a fo o d
m ill, is also needed if s tu ffin g the p o ta to e s. Flave holding and serving pieces available as
necessary. For ove n-ro asted po ta to e s, sheet pans or shallow ro a stin g pans th a t can hold
the p o ta to e s in a single layer are needed. Also needed are u te n sils f o r s tirrin g the p o ta to e s
as th e y ro a st and holding and serving pieces.
722
baking and roasting potatoes
Q basic formula
Baked Potatoes
Roasted Potatoes
(10 servings)
(10 servings)
10 baking potatoes (about 6 oz/170

g each) or 4 lb/1.81 kg low-moisture
or yellow-flesh potatoes, scrubbed
Salt or oil to lightly rub on the
skin of the potato (optional)
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate- to highmoisture potatoes (weighed

before peeling and cutting), or
Enough cooking fat to lightly
coat the potatoes

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Scrub the potatoes
and pierce th e ir skins.
( O ptional: Rub them w ith
oil or salt.)
2. Place the potatoes in a hot
oven.
3. Bake or roast them until
ex p ert tips
can be added to develop more flavor.
Add at the appropriate time. Additional ingredients or garnishes for baked

potatoes are generally added after the potatoes have been baked, whereas
additional ingredients can be added to the potatoes prior to roasting to infuse
flavor.
tender.
O L IV E OIL / RAW OR R O ASTED GA R LIC / RAW OR ROASTED O N IO N S / CHOPPED
4. Serve or hold the potatoes.
H ERB S, SUCH AS PA RSLEY, R O SE M A R Y, OR SAGE / M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN

O N IO N S /G R A T E D CHEESE
ch a p te r 23 C O O KING POTATOES
723
1. to bake potatoes whole
in th e skin,
scrub them , b lo t dry, and rub w ith oil or s a lt if desired.

Pierce the m w ith a fo rk or skew er to le t steam escape
as th e p o ta to e s bake. W hole p o ta to e s may be placed on
th e oven racks or on sh e e t pans. If placed on sheet pans,
tu rn th e p o ta to e s once du rin g baking because the side in
c o n ta c t w ith th e pan may becom e s lig h tly soggy and the
p o ta to e s may n o t cook as evenly.
Season the potatoes, pierce, and bake or roa st them
un til the y are tender. It takes about 1 hour fo r a 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g
p o ta to to bake a t 3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C . To te s t fo r doneness,
pierce th e p o ta to w ith a skew er or th e tin e s o f a fo rk . If
th e re is no re sista n ce when it e n te rs the flesh , the p o ta to
is done.
Serve baked and ove n -ro a ste d p o ta to e s im m e dia te ly.
If th is is n o t possible, th e y can be held, uncovered, f o r less
than an hour in a w arm place. However, th e steam tra p p e d
in th e in te rio r can cause th e crisp skin to become soggy
over tim e . S tu ffe d p o ta to e s may be prepared in advance
and held, covered, and re frig e ra te d . Reheat and brown in a
h o t oven ju s t p rio r to service.
NOTE: For oven roasting, scrub, dry, and then cut the
p o t a t o e s in to a un ifo rm shape i f desired. Peeling the

p o t a t o e s is op tio nal, as some chefs p r e f e r leaving the
skin on f o r a d i f f e r e n t t e x t u re an d increased n u tritio n a l
value. A rran ge the p o t a t o e s in a single la yer on a sheet
pa n o r in a r o a s tin g pan. S t ir ove n -ro a ste d p o ta t o e s as
o f t e n as necessary durin g the ro a s tin g t im e to ensure
even browning. To t e s t f o r doneness, t a s t e a piece or
pierce i t w ith a fork.
724
otatoes
en
c a s s e r o le
are
baked
in c o m b i n a t i o n
w ith
c r e a m
or
or
c u st a rd
. S
c a llo p e d
au
DIS HE S P R E P A R E D EN C A S S E R O L E ,
P E E L E D A N D S L I C E D P O T A T O E S ( E I T H E R R A W O R P A R C O O K E D TO S P E E D B A K I N G T I M E ) A R E C O M B I N E D
WITH F L A V O R E D H E A V Y C R EA M , A S AU CE , OR U N C O O K E D CU STARD, AN D TH EN S L O W L Y B A K E D UNT IL THE
P OT AT O ES A R E E X T R E M E L Y T E N D E R B U T S E T W E L L E N O U G H TO H O L D A S H A P E W H E N C U T F O R S ER V I C E .
baking potatoes
en
Low-moisture potatoes, because of their tendency to absorb liquid, produce casseroled
potatoes that are very tender. Yellow-f lesh potatoes are also often prepared en casserole;
baking potatoes en casserole
GRATIN, AN D DA U PH I N O I S E POTATOES A R E A L L GOOD E X A M P L E S . F
these have a slightly more noticeable texture and a golden color.

Scrub and peel the potatoes and remove the eyes. Thinly slice the potatoes or cut into
even dice. Thoroughly dry raw potatoes that have been held in water before combining
them with the other ingredients. Excess water can adversely affect the flavor and final
texture of the dish. Blot dry parcooked potatoes.
Have the liquid component of the dish (cream, custard, or stock, fo r example) hot be
fore combining it with the potatoes. This allows the dish to reach cooking temperature
more quickly, thus shortening the cooking time; it also allows for the infusion of flavors
from ingredients like herbs and spices.
Salt and pepper are basic for any en casserole dish. Other spices are often required.
Many of these dishes call for one or more grated cheeses, such as Gruyere and/or Parme
san. Additional ingredients may be used to introduce color, flavor, and texture. Common
options include herbs, mushrooms, mustard, and bread crumbs.
En casserole dishes are prepared in hotel pans or similar baking pans and dishes. Lib
erally grease the baking pan or dish with butter or oil to prevent sticking. Additional help
fu lbut not necessarily essentialequipment includes a mandoline fo r cutting evenly
thin slices of potato and a large offset spatula for serving individual portions of the dish.
c h a p te r 23 CO O KING POTATOES
725
basic formula
Potatoes en Casserole
( 1 0 servings)
3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg low-moisture or
waxy yellow potatoes (weighed
before peeling and cutting), or
24 to 30 fl oz/720 to 900 mL
liquid (heavy cream, milk, halfand-half, stock, or sauce)
2 to 5 oz/113 to 142 g grated

cheese or other topping (optional)
2 or 3 eggs or egg yolks (optional)
method
at-a-glance
1. Layer the sliced potatoes
in a buttered pan.
2. Add the heated cream,
sauce, or custard.
3. Shake the pan to distribute
the ingredients evenly and

cover loosely with fo il
4. Bake the potatoes in a
medium oven until they are

tender.
5. Top w ith bread crumbs,
Use flavo rful liquids to develop additional flavor and texture:

BROTH (VEG E TA B LE , POULTRY, BEEF, OR V E A L ) / H E A V Y CREA M / STOCK
Some should be added into the potato mixture, while others are used as a gar
nish or topping:
R OASTED OR SA U TE E D GA R LIC / S A U TEE D O N IO N S / M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN
O N IO N S / CHO PPED HERBS, SUCH AS PARSLEY, R O S EM A RY, OR SAGE / GRATED
CHEESE
butter, and grated cheese

and broil briefly.
6 . Serve or hold the potatoes.
baking potatoes en casserole
1. use a mandoline to produce very thin,

even slices of potato quickly and efficiently. Use lowmoisture or waxy yellow potatoes.
Parcook in the liquid called fo r in the recipe, if de
sired. Simmer the potatoes until they are cooked halfway.
They should still have a slight crunch but be yielding to the
bite. If the potatoes are overcooked at this point, the re
sulting dish will be mushy and will lack the distinctive lay
ering when sliced. If the potatoes are undercooked in the
simmering liquid, the resulting dish wilt still be crunchy
after baking.
method in detail
2. layer the potatoes evenly (slight
ly shingling them) in a buttered baking pan. Arrange raw or
parcooked potatoes on a slight shingle in single, uniform
layers, separating the slices so they will cook evenly. Add
aromatic ingredients and seasonings, such as sliced garlic,
cheese, or salt and pepper, to each layer for the best dis
tribution of flavor (or infuse some into the cooking liquid).
Pour a small amount of cooking liquid over each layer.
c h a p te r 23 C O O K IN G POTATOES
727
3. pour the rest of the hot cooking liquid

evenly over the potatoes after assembly. Have cream,
sauces, and drippings very hot; custards should be heated
but not at a boil. Shake the pan gently to distribute the
liquid evenly between the layers. Add topping ingredients
now or after baking, as necessary. Many en casserole
dishes are referred to as gratins. The surface of the gratin
gradually browns and forms a crust.
Bake in a low oven (300 to 325F/149 to 163C)
until the potatoes are just tender and the top is golden
brown. This temperature for baking avoids curdling, es
pecially with custards. A very creamy texture can best
be achieved by baking en casserole dishes in a hot water
bath.
If the top begins to brown too quickly, reduce the oven
temperature or cover the dish with aluminum foil. If the
potatoes are done before the top browns, place the dish
briefly under a salamander or broiler to brown once the
potatoes are tender.
Hi
method in detail
4. in a good potatoes en casserole, the potatoes
are moist and tender; they hold their shape when cut into
servings and placed on the plate. The sauce is thick and
very smooth, not runny, grainy, or curdled. The top should
be brown and crisp fo r extra flavor.
These dishes are particularly suitable for banquet be
cause they are easily divided into servings. En casserole
potato dishes can be held throughout a typical service
period. Cover loosely with foil and hold in a warm place.
If necessary, cool and refrigerate. Slice the potatoes into
portions and reheat in an oven or brown lightly under a
salamander or broiler just before serving.
728
om e
fr ies
s a u t e in g
. S
potatoes
a u t eed
interior
. Th e
cho ices
ran g e
of b u tter
n n a
potatoes
cooking
fro m
to t h e
h ash
co m bin e
fat p l a y s
the taste
m o re
b r o w n s
of
rosti
b ro w n ed
significant
n n a
-s
t y l e
rustic flav o r of hash
a n d
a n d
crisp
ro le
y o n n a is e
in t h e
or rosti
potatoes
exterio r
flav o r
of
w ith
the
potatoes co o ked
b ro w n s or h o m e
a re
a
pr epa red
t e n d e r
finished
by
moist
dish
and
in l i b e r a l a m o u n t s
fries sa u teed
in l a r d
oil
or
D U C K FAT.
sauteing potatoes
sauteing potatoes
The key to successful sauteed potato dishes is in preparing the potatoes so that they be
come fully cooked just as the exterior has finished developing a good color and texture.
Moderate-moisture potatoes give the best texture and appearance to sauteed dishes.
Scrub and peel the potatoes, and remove the eyes. Cut the potatoes into even slices, dice,
julienne, tourne, or balls. If the potatoes are peeled and cut in advance, hold them sub
merged in cold water until it is time to cook them. Drain and blot them dry on paper towels
immediately before sauteing to avoid splattering. To shorten the cooking time, partially or
fully cook the potatoes in advance by steaming or boiling. Drain and dry them as described
on page 717.
Different kinds of cooking fat may be used, singly or in combination, for the best flavor
in the finished dish. They include vegetable oil, olive oil, clarified butter, or rendered duck,
goose, or bacon fat.
Season the potatoes with salt and pepper during cooking. A wide range of herbs and
spices, vegetables, and meats can be combined with potatoes to produce a dish with a
special flavor or appearance. Among them are onions, shallots, and green onions; diced
green and red peppers; or diced bacon or ham. Finishing ingredients such as heated cream,
melted butter, heated sour cream, or grated cheese may be added to the potatoes during
the actual cooking process or after they have been cooked until tender.
Choose a saute pan large enough to hold the potatoes without crowding. Cast-iron pans
are especially good for potatoes because they can create a crust of exceptional crispness.
Spatulas, serving pieces, and paper towels for draining excess fa t may also be necessary.
729
basic formula
Sauteed Potatoes
( 1 0 servings)
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate-moisture
potatoes (weighed before
peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4
oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
Cooking fat (oil, clarified butter,

rendered duck, goose, or bacon fat)
method
at-a-glance
1. Heat cooking fa t in a saute
pan.
2. Add cut potatoes.
3. Shake the pan vigorously
to coat the potatoes evenly

w ith the fat.
4. Saute the potatoes,
stirrin g or flipping them

frequently, until golden
brown outside and tender
inside.
5. Season and serve.
To flavor and season
s a u te e d p o ta to e s , t r y o n e o r a c o m b in a tio n
o f a n y o f th e fo llo w in g .
T h e f a t u s e d f o r fr y in g th e p o t a t o e s w ill im p a r t s ig n ific a n t fla v o r . A n y o f th e

fo llo w in g a re c o m m o n ly u s e d a lo n e o r in c o m b in a tio n d e p e n d in g on th e f a t s
s m o k e p o in t a nd t h e d e s ir e d fla v o r.
C LA R IFIE D B UTTER / O L IV E O IL / R END ER ED DUCK OR GOOSE FAT / VEGETABLE
OIL
T h e a d d itio n o f c e r ta in m e a ts is a ls o c o m m o n f o r s e a s o n in g s a u te e d p o ta to e s :
B A C O N /P A N C E T T A
Herbs, spices, and aromatic vegetables, added at the proper moment, will add
flavor and beautiful color:
CHO PPED C E LER Y / CHO PPED GA R LIC / CHO PPED HERBS, SUCH AS P A R S LE Y OR
R O S E M A R Y OR M IN C E D C H IV E S / CHO PPED JALAPEN O S / CHO PPED PEPPERS
730
sauteing potatoes
1. scrub and peel raw potatoes

and cut, slice, orgrate them into the desired shape. If the
potatoes are held in water before cooking, drain and blot
them dry before sauteing. Some dishes may call fo r the
potatoes to be simmered until partially cooked either
before or after they are sliced or cut.
Be sure to use enough cooking fa t and coat the pan
generously to prevent the potatoes from sticking and
falling apart as they cook. The fa t must be hot so that the
crust begins to develop immediately. This crust assures
the proper color, flavor, and texture, and also prevents the
potatoes from absorbing too much fat.
Brown the potatoes on one side evenly before flipping
them over. S tir the potatoes or shake the pan occasion
ally as the potatoes cook, to brown evenly. In general,
add garnishes or finishing ingredients when the potatoes
have almost finished cooking. For the best flavor and tex
ture, serve sauteed potatoes immediately after they are
cooked. If necessary, however, they may be held fo r 5 to
10 minutes, uncovered, in a warm place.
method in detail
2. Sauteed potatoes should have a golden
crisp exterior and a tender interior. Properly sauteed
potatoes have a rich flavor from the browning of the pota
toes as well as from the cooking fa t itself. Use seasonings
to bring out the flavor of the potatoes and garnishing and
finishing ingredients to further enhance the flavor by add
ing their own flavors, textures, and colors to the finished
presentation.
ch a p te r 23 C O O KING POTATOES
731
rench fries and s t ea k fr ies
,a
s w e l l a s w a f f l e
-cut,
m a tch stick
,a
nd s o u f f l e potatoes
,are
A L L D E E P - F R I E D P O T A T O E S . T H E Y S E E M S I M P L E TO M A K E , B U T M U S T B E D O N E C A R E F U L L Y IF E X C E L L E N T
Q U A L I T Y IS T O B E A C H I E V E D . M O S T D E E P - F R I E D P O T A T O E S P R E P A R E D F R O M T H E R A W S T A T E A R E F I R S T
B L A N C H E D IN O I L H E A T E D TO 3 0 0 TO B 2 5 F / 1 4 9 T O 1 6 3 C U N T I L T E N D E R A N D A L M O S T T R A N S L U C E N T .
They a re th e n d rain ed t h o r o u g h ly and h e ld u n t il j u s t b e fo re service.
At
t h a t time, t h e y
A R E F I N I S H E D IN O I L H E A T E D TO 3 5 0 TO 3 7 5 F / 1 7 7 TO 1 9 1 C .
deep frying
potatoes
Blanching ensures that the finished potato has the proper color, texture, and flavor and
that it cooks thoroughly without becoming greasy or scorched. It is especially important to
blanch souffle potatoes so that they puff adequately. Very thinly cut potatoes (e.g., match
stick potatoes) can usually be cooked in a single step, without firs t blanching. Deep-fried
potatoes such as Lorette, croquette, and dauphine are made from a puree.
Low-moisture potatoes are best for deep frying. Scrub and peel them, and remove the
eyes. Cut the potatoes into even slices, julienne, batonnet, or other cuts. If the potatoes
are peeled and cut in advance of cooking, hold them submerged in cold water. Rinse the po
tatoes in several changes of cold water if indicated, and drain and dry them thoroughly to
prevent splattering when they are added to the oil. Rinsing the potatoes in several changes
of cold water removes the surface starch and helps prevent the potatoes from sticking to
gether. Potatoes that are to be deep fried for such preparations as straw or matchstick po
tatoes, in particular, should be rinsed so they dont clump together as they cook. However,
potatoes used for deep-fried potato nests and cakes need the cohesiveness provided by
the surface starch and should not be rinsed.
Choose a neutral oil with a high smoke point for frying the potatoes. Deep-fried pota
toes are customarily seasoned with salt after frying and prior to service. Condiments
ketchup and malt vinegar are the most commonmay be served with them.
Use either a frying kettle or a deep fryer. Electric or gas deep fryers are excellent for
doing a great deal of deep frying because they maintain even temperatures. They are also
put together in such a way that it is relatively easy to clean them and care for the oil prop
erly. Lacking a freestanding fryer, use a deep kettle or pot, such as a stockpot, instead. Use
a thermometer to monitor and control the temperature. Once the correct frying tempera
ture is reached, adjust the heat so that the temperature remains relatively constant. Other
equipment, such as baskets, tongs, spiders, and containers lined with paper towels, should
also be available.
732
basic formula
Deep-Fried Potatoes
Enough cooking oil to completely

submerge the potatoes
( 1 0 servings)
2 lb 8 oz to 3 lb 8 oz/1.13 to 1.59 kg
potatoes, peeled and cut to shape
Finishing or garnishing
ingredients for service
method
at-a-glance
deep frying potatoes
expert tips
1. Blanch the cut potatoes in

300F/149C oil.
2. Drain them.
Potatoes th a t are deep_frie d
3. Increase the o ils
from the raw state may seem
to be simple, but when prepared with care they can become a very important
tem perature to
375F/191C.
addition to textures and flavors of the plate.
D iffe re n t cuts o f po tato
4. Fry the blanched potatoes
will have different results. Thinner
cuts will be crisp throughout, while fatter or bigger cuts will yield a crisp exte
until golden brown and

flo a tin g on the oil's surface.
rior with a creamy interior. Some of the different cuts applied to potatoes for
deep frying are as follows:
5. Drain them on paper

A L L U M E T T E OR M A TC H STIC K / SHOE STR IN G / W AFFLE CUT
towels.
6 . Salt them away from the
fryer.
Sait (and sometimes pepper) isthe most typical seasoning

for deep-fried potatoes. In addition to these, try applying different ground
7. Serve the potatoes
spices or spice mixtures after frying to suit the profile of a particular dish:
immediately.
CAYEN N E / C O R IA N D E R / C U M IN
Add dry sprigs o f fresh herbs withthe potatoes. Frying

fresh herbs with the potatoes will infuse the oil and flavor the potatoes:
R O S E M A R Y /S A G E
733
1. scrub, peel, cut, and hold the

potatoes in cold water. Immediately before cooking, rinse
them several times in cold water, if indicated, and drain
thoroughly. Blot dry. Heat the oil to 300 to 325F/149
to 163C. Blanch the potatoes until they are nearly
cooked through but still relatively uncolored. Remove the
potatoes from the fryer and spread them into a thin layer
on a sheet pan.
Blanched potatoes may be held, covered and refriger
ated, for up to several hours before finishing the cooking
process. They may be frozen for 1 month.
2. reheat the
oilto35oto375F/ i77to
191Cjust before service. Deep-fry the potatoes until

golden brown on all surfaces and cooked through. Gently
stir the potatoes halfway through cooking so that they
brown evenly. L ift them from the cooking oil with a basket
or spider and allow any excess oil to drain back into the
fryer.
Transfer to a pan lined with paper toweling to blot
away excess oil. Add seasonings to the very hot fried
potatoes as desired. Be sure to do this away from the oil
used fo r frying, to prolong the life of the oil.
Evaluate the quality of the finished deep-fried pota
toes. Bite into one o f the pieces. Very thin potatoes, such
as gaufrette (waffle-cut) potatoes, should be extremely
crisp, almost to the point where they shatter when b it
ten. Thick-cut potatoes should have a crisp exterior and a
tender, flu ffy interior. Deep-fried potatoes cannot be held
successfully for more than a few minutes.
734
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Duchesse Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
4 o z/5 7 g butter, soft
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL milk, hot
4 egg yolks, beaten
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, hot
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
potato recipes
Whipped Potatoes
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

Boil or steam until tender enough to mash easily
(see Note). Drain and dry them over low heat or on

Boil or steam until tender enough to mash easily.
a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven until no more
Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan
steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the
in a 3ooF/i49C oven until no more steam rises
potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill
from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the potatoes are
or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
still hot, puree them through a food mill or potato
2 . Add the butter and mix into the potatoes by hand

or with the paddle or wire whip of an electric mixer
ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks. Season with nutmeg,
until just incorporated. Add the milk, cream, salt,
salt, and pepper and mix well by hand or with the
and pepper and whisk by hand or whip in the mixer
wire whip of an electric mixer.
until smooth and light.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe the
3 . Spoon the potatoes onto heated plates or transfer
mixture into the desired shapes on a sheet pan lined
them to a piping bag and pipe into the desired
with parchment paper. Brush lightly with egg wash.
shapes. Serve immediately.

NOTE: Alternatively, potatoes may be baked in their skins
until very tender. Halve the potatoes and scoop out the
flesh while it is still very hot.
4 . Bake in a 375F/i9iC oven until the potatoes are

golden brown and heated through, 10 to 12 minutes.
Serve immediately.
chapter 23 C OOK I N G P OTATOES
735
Boiled Parsley Potatoes
Baked Potatoes with

Deep-Fried Onions
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg russet potatoes
10 russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Salt, as needed
potato recipes
Boiled Parsley
Potatoes
1 . Scrub the potatoes and peel, if desired. Cut them
10 o z /2 8 4 g Deep-Fried Onions (page 581)
into 2-in/5-cm cubes or wedges (hold potatoes in

cold water until ready to cook to prevent discolor
ation).
2 . Place the potatoes in a large pot with enough cold

water to cover them by about 2 in/5 cm - Add salt and
gradually bring the water to a simmer over medium
heat. Cover and simmer until the potatoes are easily
pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Drain the po
tatoes, return them to the pot, and dry them briefly
over low heat until steam no longer rises, 10 to 15
minutes.
3 . Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium heat.
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins in

a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork. Rub
the potatoes lightly with oil, and season with salt and
pepper.
2 . Bake on a sheet pan in a 425F/2i8C oven until very

tender and cooked through, about 1 hour, turning
once.
3 . Meanwhile, blend the sour cream and chives. Season

4 . Pinch or cut open the potatoes, place 2 tbsp/30 mL
Add the potatoes, rolling and tossing to coat them
of sour cream on the top, and top with the onions.
evenly with butter, and heat through.
Serve immediately.
4 . Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Serve immediately.
Chapter 23 CO O K I N G P OTATOES
737
Roasted Tuscan-Style
Potatoes
Glazed Sweet
Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 5 oz/1.50 kg chef's potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg sweet potatoes
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
3 tb sp /9 g chopped rosemary
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
3 tb sp /9 g chopped sage
1 ts p /2 g ground cinnamon
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large dice.

Starting with cold water, bring the potatoes to a boil
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins
over medium-high heat. Simmer for about 10 min
in a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
utes, until the potatoes are partially cooked. Drain,
Arrange in a single layer on a sheet pan. Bake in
being careful not to break the potatoes.
a 425F/2i8C oven until very tender and cooked
2 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and pour

in the oil. Add the potatoes and brown on all sides.
through, 45 to 50 minutes, turning once.
2 . Combine the pineapple, lemon juice, sugar, cin
When they are browned, remove the potatoes and
namon, butter, salt, and pepper in a saucepan and
drain off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the oil.
bring to a simmer while the sweet potatoes are bak
3 . Reduce the heat to low and add the garlic, rosemary,

and sage. Cook until the garlic is lightly browned
and the herbs are crisp. Toss the mixture with the
potatoes.
4 . Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
ing. Continue to cook until lightly thickened; keep

warm.
3 . As soon as the potatoes are cool enough to handle,

peel them and cut into slices or large chunks. Ar
range them on a sheet pan. Pour the glaze over them
and bake in a 350F/i77C oven until very hot, about
NOTE: Instead of parcooking the potatoes in boiling water,

the potatoes may be tossed with 2 f I oz/60 mL olive oil,
2 tbsp/18gminced garlic, 2 tbsp/6gminced rosemary,
2 tbsp/6 g chopped sage, salt, and pepper, transferred
to an oiled sheet pan, and roasted in a 375F/191C oven
until tender and brown, 40 to 45 minutes.
10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Mashed Sweet
Potatoes with Ginger
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg sweet potatoes
2 o z/5 7 g butter
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced ginger
Salt, as needed
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
2 . Bake on a rack in a 425F/2i8C oven until very ten

der and cooked through, about 45 minutes.
3 . Halve the potatoes, scoop out the flesh while still

hot, and puree the flesh through a food mill or
potato ricer into a heated bowl.
. Allow the potatoes to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before

slicing into servings.
NOTE: For a traditional scalloped potato dish, the sliced
potatoes may be shingled in the hotel pan. Before
baking, layer with 4 to 5 oz/113 to 142 g grated Cheddar
and then top with an additional 5 oz/142 ggrated
Cheddar. Cover the pan with foil for 35 minutes. Uncover
and allow the cheese to brown lightly.
4 . Combine the butter, cream, and ginger in a small
potato recipes
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins in a
sauce pot and bring to a simmer. Pour over the pu

reed sweet potatoes and stir gently until the mixture
is homogenous. Season with salt and pepper. Serve
immediately.
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's potatoes
Potatoes au Gratin

1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced onions
( G r a t i n
D a u p h i n o i s e )
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg chefs potatoes
Salt, as needed
5 garlic cloves
1 q t/9 6 0 mL milk
1 . Scrub, peel, and slice the potatoes. Cook them in a

large stockpot of boiling salted water until partially
cooked, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and dry them over low
Salt, as needed
heat or on a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven until
no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.

4 o z /1 13 g butter, cut into small pieces
2 . Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring
frequently, until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes.
Remove the onions from the pan and reserve.
1 . Scrub, peel, and thinly slice the potatoes using a

mandoline or electric slicer.
2 . Put the garlic in a medium saucepan with the milk
3 . Add the potatoes to the oil and season with salt and
pepper. Continue to saute over medium-high heat,
stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are browned
and bring to a boil. Season the milk with nutmeg,
well on all sides and tender to the bite, 5 to 7 min
salt, and pepper and add the sliced potatoes.
utes. Add back the onions. Garnish with the parsley
3 . Bring the milk to a simmer at i8oF/82C and cook
the potatoes until cooked halfway, 8 to 10 minutes,

taking care that the milk does not boil over. Discard
the garlic.
4 . Transfer the potatoes and milk to a buttered hotel

pan, pour the cream over the top, and dot with the
butter.
5 . Bake in a 375F/i9iC oven until golden brown and

the milk has been absorbed, about 45 minutes.
chapter 23 CO O K I N G P OTATOES
739
Chateau Potatoes
Hash Brown Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's or waxy yellow potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg chefs potatoes
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter or oil
'A o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub the potatoes and peel if desired. Cut them into
1 . Scrub and peel the potatoes. Cook them in a large
equal-size tourne, about the size of an olive (hold
stockpot of boiling salted water until partially
potatoes in cold water until ready to cook to prevent
cooked, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of
discoloration). Rinse, drain, and dry thoroughly.
the potatoes. Drain and dry them over low heat or
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a saute pan over medium
on a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven, 5 to 10 min
heat. Add the potatoes and saute until tender with a
utes. Cut the potatoes into slices, small or medium
golden exterior, 8 to 10 minutes.
dice, or grate them.
3 . Sprinkle with parsley and season with salt and pep

per. Serve immediately.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the potatoes and season with salt and
pepper.
3 . Saute the potatoes until they are fully cooked and

well browned on all sides. Garnish with the parsley
Delmonico Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
5 lb /2.27 kg chefs potatoes
2 o z/5 7 g whole butter
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub and peel the potatoes. Use a parisienne scoop

to shape the potatoes into large balls.
2 . Cook the potatoes by boiling or steaming in a me

dium stockpot or convection steamer until almost
tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and dry them over low
heat or on a sheet pan in a 300^/149 C oven until
no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.

high heat. Add the potatoes and saute until cooked
through and light golden brown. Add the whole
butter and melt. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Sprinkle the potatoes with the parsley and lemon

juice and serve immediately.
740
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Potato katkes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes
8 o z/2 2 7 g coarsely grated onion,

with extra liquid squeezed out
1 lb /4 5 4 g onions
1 tb sp /9 g crushed garlic
1 o z/2 8 g bread flour
1 o z/2 8 g matzo meal
potato recipes
Potato Pancakes
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /7 g all-purpose flour
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub the potatoes. Grind or grate the potatoes and

onions together with a food processor or by hand.
2 . Wring the grated potatoes and onions in cheesecloth

1 . Scrub, peel, and coarsely grate the potatoes. Com
to remove excess moisture. Transfer to a bowl and
bine them with the onions, garlic, parsley, chives,
add the eggs, flour, and matzo meal. Season with salt
eggs, and flour. Season with salt and pepper.
and pepper.
2 . Heat 3 tbsp/45 mLof the oil in a large skillet over
3 . Heat V4 in/6 mm oil in a heavy cast-iron skillet to
medium heat. Add about 2 tbsp/30 mL of the potato
350F/i77C. Drop about 2 tbsp/30 mL of the potato
mixture to the pan and flatten with a spoon to form
mixture into the hot oil. Brown on the first side for
a galette (2 to 3 in/5 to 8 cm in diameter).
about 3 minutes. Turn them once and brown on the
3 . Cook until golden on one side, then turn to brown

the other side, about 6 minutes per side.
4 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
second side, another 2 to 3 minutes. If necessary, the

pancakes may be finished in a 375F/i9iC oven until
browned and crisp.
Blot the pancakes on paper towels and serve
immediately.
chapter 23 C O O K IN G POTATOES
743
Potatoes Anna
Makes 10 servings
3 . Halve the potatoes and scoop out the flesh while still
very hot into a heated bowl. Mash the potatoes, butter,
salt, pepper, and egg together with a fork or wooden
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's potatoes
2'A f 1o z/7 5 mL melted clarified butter, or as needed

Salt, as needed
spoon until evenly blended. Shape into cakes.

medium-high heat. Working in batches, saute the
cakes until golden on both sides and very hot, 2 to 3
minutes per side. Serve immediately.
1 . Scrub, peel, and trim the potatoes into uniform cyl

inders. Thinly slice them using a mandoline or elec
tric slicer.
2 . Liberally brush a sautoir or cast-iron skillet with

butter. Arrange the potato slices in concentric rings.
Lightly brush each layer with butter and season with
salt and pepper.
Rosti Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL clarified butter, or as needed
3 . Cover the potatoes and cook them on the stovetop

over medium heat until the bottom layer is brown,
Salt, as needed
about 8 minutes. Turn the potato cake upside down
and brown the other side, about 6 to 8 minutes.
2 o z/5 7 g whole butter, or as needed
4 . Place the pan in a 400F/204C oven and bake until

the potatoes are tender, 30 to 35 minutes.
5 . Drain off the excess butter and turn the potato cake
1 . Scrub the potatoes and place them in a large stock

pot. Add cold water to cover by 2 in/5 cm- Bring
out onto a platter. Slice into servings and serve
to a simmer and parcook until the potatoes are
immediately.
cooked about halfway, about 20 minutes. Drain

and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan in a
300F/i49C oven until no more steam rises from
them, 5 to 10 minutes.
Macaire Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Salt, as needed
2 . Peel the potatoes as soon as they are cool enough to

handle and grate them on the coarse side of a box
grater.
3 . Heat a rosti or saute pan over high heat. Ladle in

some of the clarified butter. Layer enough grated
potato in the pan to make a single, uniform layer.
2 o z/5 7 g butter
le g g
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
Lightly drizzle the layer with a little additional but

ter and season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the
remaining potatoes, butter, salt, and pepper. Dot the
outside edge with pieces of whole butter.
4 . Cook the potatoes until they are golden brown and

1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Season with salt.
Pierce the skins in a few places with a paring knife
or kitchen fork.
2 . Bake on the rack in a 425F/2i8C oven until very

tender and cooked through, about 1 hour.
744
form a cake, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the entire cake,

dot the edge with more whole butter, and cook the
second side until the potatoes are fully cooked and
tender and the crusts are golden brown and crisp.
Turn the cake out of the pan, cut into servings, and
serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Sweet Potato Chips
Makes 10 servings
Berny Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
2 V i
oz/71 g butter, soft

2 egg yolks, beaten
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into the desired
shape, most commonly Vs by Vs by 2 to 3 in/9 mm by
2 o z/5 7 g chopped truffles
9 mm by 5 to 8 cm (hold potatoes in cold water until
2 o z/5 7 g slivered almonds
ready to cook to prevent discoloration). Rinse, drain,

and dry thoroughly.
2 . Heat the oil to 275 to 300^/135 to 149C in a heavy

deep pot or a deep fryer. Add the potatoes in batches,
potato recipes
French-Fried
Potatoes
2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs

and blanch until just tender but not browned (time

varies according to the size of cuts).
3 . Drain well and transfer to pans lined with paper

towels, scaling into servings if desired.
Just before service, reheat the oil to 375F/i9iC

and finish the potatoes, frying until they are golden
brown and cooked through. Drain well, season with
salt away from the fryer, and serve immediately.

Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to
mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or
on a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven until no more
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season

with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand
or with the wire whip of an electric mixer. Fold in
Sweet Potato Chips

Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg sweet potatoes
Salt, as needed
the truffles.
3 . Combine the almonds and bread crumbs in a shal

low container.
4 . Shape 2-oz/57-g servings of the potato mixture into

balls or pear shapes, as desired. Dip the balls in the
egg wash and then into the almond/bread crumb
mixture.
5 . Heat oil to 375F/i9iC in a heavy deep pot or a deep

1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the sweet potatoes into circles
fryer and fry the potatoes until they are an even
1/16 in/1.50 mm thick using a mandoline or electric
golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain briefly on paper
slicer.
towels and serve immediately.
2 . Heat the oil to 325F/i63C in a heavy deep pot and

fry the potatoes in batches until golden brown, 1 to 2
minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.
Serve immediately, or store uncovered in a warm
area.
chapter 23 CO O K I N G P OTATOES
747
Souffleed Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb 8 o z/2.04 kg Russet potatoes
Salt, as needed

or with the wire whip of an electric mixer.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe it into

long ropes about 1 in/3 cm ' n diameter. Cut these
ropes into 3-in/8-cm lengths. Coat the potato cyl
inders with the flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs,
1 . Scrub, peel, and trim the potatoes into uniform

cylinders. Slice them thin (Vi6 to Vs in/1.50 to 3 mm)
lengthwise using a mandoline or electric sheer.
2 . Heat the oil to 300F/i49C in a heavy deep pot. Add

the potato slices in small batches. Shake the basket
or pot carefully to prevent the potatoes from stick
ing. When the slices blister, remove and drain them
in a single layer on paper towels. Hold for service.
following the standard breading procedure (see page

365). This can be done just before service or up to
4 hours in advance, keeping the croquettes covered
and refrigerated.
4 . Heat the oil to 375F/i9iC in a heavy deep pot. Deep

fry the croquettes until golden brown and heated
through, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain briefly on paper tow
els and serve immediately.
3 . At service, reheat the oil to 375F/i9iC and add the

blanched potato slices. Fry until puffed and golden
brown. Drain well. Season with salt and serve
immediately.
Lorette Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Croquette Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
2V i o z/71 g butter, soft

2 egg yolks, beaten
Salt, as needed
2 egg yolks, beaten

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Pate a Choux (page

1160), at room temperature
Salt, as needed


2 eggs combined with 2 tb sp /3 0 mL

milk or water for egg wash
mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
on a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C oven until no more
mash easily, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and dry them
or with the wire whip of an electric mixer. Fold in
over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 300F/i49C
the pate a choux.
oven until no more steam rises from them, 10 to 15
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe the
minutes. While the potatoes are still hot, puree them
mixture into crescent shapes on strips of parchment
through a food mill or potato ricer into a heated
paper.
bowl.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
and discard the paper. Deep fry the lorettes until
Makes 10 servings
Carefully lower the strips of paper into the pot.
golden brown, turning if necessary to brown evenly.

Remove them from the oil, blot dry on paper towels,
2 lb /9 0 7 g peeled, large-dice sweet potatoes
2 lb /9 0 7 g peeled, large-dice russet potatoes

12 o z/3 4 0 g minced red onion
potato recipes
When the lorettes have lifted off the paper, remove
Curried Sweet Potato

Salad
4 . Heat the oil to 375F/i9iC in a heavy deep pot.
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice mango
German Potato Salad

Makes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g green onions, green and white

parts, sliced Vs in /3 mm thick
3 lb 5 o z/1.50 kg Red Bliss potatoes
10 o z/2 8 4 g bacon, minced
11 o z/3 1 2 g onion, minced
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine vinegar
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL rice wine vinegar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL Pommery mustard
Salt, as needed
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), warm
1 . Place the sweet and russet potatoes in a large pot

and cover with cool salted water. Bring to a simmer
over medium heat and cook the potatoes until ten

der, about 20 minutes.
2 . Drain the potatoes well and spread them onto a

1 . Put the potatoes in a large pot. Cover them with cool
salted water and bring the mixture to a simmer over
medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, 18
to 20 minutes.
2 . Drain the potatoes and peel them while they are

still warm. Slice the potatoes about Vi in/i cm thick.
Keep the potatoes warm.
3 . In a medium saute pan, cook the bacon over me

dium heat until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Re
move the bacon from the pan, leaving the fat. Cook
sheet pan. Air-dry the potatoes.
3 . Combine the potatoes, onions, mango, and green

onions in a large bowl.
4 . In a medium bowl, combine the curry powder,

cumin, cardamom, mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, and
lime juice.
5 . Add the dressing to the potatoes and toss to com

bine. Season with salt and pepper. Serve or hold
under refrigeration until needed.
the onions in the rendered fat until tender, 5 to 7

minutes.
4 . Transfer the onions to a large bowl. Add the bacon,

vinegar, oil, mustards, and stock.
5 . Add the warm potatoes to the dressing and toss gen

tly to combine. Season with the salt and pepper and
finish with the chives and parsley. Serve immediately.
chapter 23 C OOK I N G POTAT OES
749
Tortilla de Papas
4 . Whisk the eggs together well and reserve.
Makes 10 servings
5 . To make the artichoke and pepper salad, trim and

cut the artichokes into quarters. Place them into a
TORTILLA
large nonreactive pot with the water, lemon juice,
1 lb /4 5 4 g chef's potatoes, cut into medium dice
bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer
1 lb /4 5 4 g purple-skin potatoes, cut into medium dice

8 o z/2 2 7 g clarified butter, plus as needed for frying
and cook until the thickest part of the artichoke is

6 . Cool the artichokes to room temperature in the
1 lb /4 5 4 g Spanish onions, thinly sliced
cooking liquid. Drain well and transfer to a large
3 lb 8 o z /1 .5 9 kg eggs
bowl.
ARTICHOKE AND PEPPER SALAD

1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g baby artichokes
7 . Char and peel the red and yellow peppers according

to the instructions on page 639. Cut them into batonnets. Add the peppers, onions, olive oil, balsamic
vinegar, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper to the bowl
with the artichokes. Keep warm.
1 bay leaf
3 thyme sprigs
8 . To make the tortillas, heat a small amount of clari

fied butter in each of several nonstick medium saute
pans. Ladle about 6 oz/170 g of the eggs into each
10 peppercorns
skillet. When they begin to coagulate, divide the sau
1 lb /4 5 4 g red peppers
teed potatoes and sauteed onions between the pans.
1 lb /4 5 4 g yellow peppers
Allow each tortilla to set and lightly brown, then
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions, sliced

2 tb sp /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
place the pan in a 400F/204C oven and cook until

the eggs are just set.
9 . Transfer the tortilla to a plate, top with artichoke
and pepper salad, and garnish with crumbled goat
cheese and chervil.
'/ 2
ts p /1.50 g chopped thyme
Salt, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g goat cheese, crumbled

3/ t o z/21 g chervil pluches
1 . Place the potatoes in a large pot, and cover with cool

salted water. Bring to a boil and simmer the potatoes
until they are half cooked. Drain and cool to room
temperature.
2 . Heat half of the clarified butter in a medium saute

pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes and saute
until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove and reserve
the potatoes.
3 . Heat the remaining clarified butter in the pan over

medium heat. Add the Spanish onions and saute
until caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the
pot and reserve with the potatoes.
750
c o o * ? grains
andJramimes
Orijtof the most dramatic changes on the culinary scene in recent years
has been the rediscovery of grains and legumes. Everyday grains
wheat, corn, rice are appearing in many new forms, and beans have
become more popular as well. In addition, exotic grains such as millet,
Kamut, amaranth, and quinoa, and beans that were once rarely seen,
including flageolets and borlottis, are appearing more frequently.
G r a in s a n d l e g u m e s a r e d r ie d f o o d s t h a t m u s t b e p r o p e r l y r e h y d r a t e d b y c o o k in g in s t o c k
O R W A T E R B E F O R E T H E Y C A N BE E A T E N . L E G U M E S A N D M O S T G R A I N S A R E U S U A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H T H E
L I Q . U I D B E F O R E B R I N G I N G I T TO A B O I L , B U T S O M E G R A I N S ( d U I N O A , F O R I N S T A N C E ) A R E A D D E D TO T H E
L I Q . U I D O N L Y A F T E R I T H A S C O M E TO A B O I L . S O M E S E A S O N I N G S A R E A D D E D A T T H E B E G I N N I N G O F T H E
C O O K I N G P E R I O D , O T H E R S A T T H E E N D . ( R E F E R TO S P E C I F I C R E C I P E S F O R D E T A I L S . ) A L T H O U G H G R A I N S
A N D L E G U M E S A R E O F T E N R E F E R R E D TO A S B O I L E D , T H E Y A R E A C T U A L L Y S I M M E R E D O R S T E A M E D . T h e
H I G H H E A T O F A B O I L I N G L I Q . U I D T E N D S TO T O U G H E N T H E M .
simmering whole
grains ana legumes
When a grain completely absorbs the cooking liquid, it is often referred to as steamed.
Grains may also be cooked in a quantity of liquid greater than they can absorb; once the
grain is fully cooked, the excess liquid is drained away.
Sort whole grains and legumes carefully before cooking. Spread out the grains or le
gumes in a single layer on a sheet pan and work from one end of the pan to the other sys
tematically to spot and remove stones and moldy beans. Put the beans or legumes in a
large pot or bowl and cover them with cold water. Any that flo at on the surface are too
dry for culinary or nutritional purposes and should be removed and discarded. Drain the
beans or legumes in a colander or sieve and then rinse them well with cold running water to
remove any dust.
Most legumes and some grains are soaked prior to cooking. Whole grains, such as whole
or Scotch barley and wheat and rye berries, benefit from soaking, which softens the outer
layer of bran. Pearl barley, which has had the bran removed mechanically, does not need to
be soaked. Imported basmati and jasmine rice should be soaked to remove excess starch
from the surface and prevent clumping. Domestic basmati and jasmine rice do not need to
be soaked. Steep fine- or medium-grind bulgur wheat in boiling liquid for several minutes,
until the grain softens enough to be chewed easily. Like bulgur, steep instant couscous in
hot stock or water. (While couscous is actually a form of semolina pasta, it is often thought
of as a grain because of its texture and appearance.)
Whether or not to soak legumes is a subject of debate among chefs. Some believe that
most legumes, with a few notable exceptions (lentils, split peas, and black-eyed peas), are
easier to prepare and produce a better quality finished dish if they are soaked, because
the skins soften slightly, allowing fo r more rapid and even cooking. Others find that soak
ing has no benefit beyond shortening the cooking time, and that cooking legumes without
soaking results in a creamier texture. If you choose to soak, there are two methods com
monly used: the long soak and the short soak. Except fo r time, there is no appreciable d if
ference between them. If grains or legumes are to be eaten at room temperature or chilled
as fo r a salad, more cooking time is required to achieve a softer texture.
752
bate. In addition to softening skins, soaking the legumes causes many of the oligosaccha
rides (indigestible complex sugars that can cause flatulence) in the legumes to be leached
into the water. At the same time, small amounts of nutrients, flavor, and color are also
leached into the water. When the soaking water is used as the cooking liquid, the nutrients,
flavor, and color are retained, but so are the oligosaccharides.
Water, stock, and broth are common choices fo r the cooking liquid. Each type of grain
or legume absorbs a different amount of liquid. (See Cooking Ratios and Times for Select
ed Pasta and Grains, page 1162, or package or recipe instructions fo r details.) Grains often
are cooked in an amount of liquid greater than they can actually absorb. This is especially
desirable for grains that should remain separate, fluffy, and very dry after cooking. The
amount of liquid required for legumes depends on the type and the age of the legume and
its total cooking time. Legumes should be completely covered by liquid at all times. It is
important to maintain this level throughout cooking. If the legumes are allowed to absorb
all the liquid, they might break apart or scorch.
Salt needs to be added to the cooking liquid at the beginning of cooking time for grains
or near the end fo r legumes to properly enhance natural flavors. Legumes and grains have
relatively subtle flavors that frequently require a boost from spices and herbs either dur
ing or after cooking.
Grains are done when they are tender to the bite. They should be fluffy, with a sweet,
nutty flavor. Legumes are done when they are completely tender and creamy on the inside
simmering grains and legumes
Whether or not to use the soaking water as the cooking liquid is also a subject of de
but still retain their shape. They should be soft and easy to mash with a fork or spoon. Un
dercooking legumes is a common mistake.
The equipment needs for simmering grains and legumes are quite simple: a pot large
enough to allow fo r the expansion of the grain or legume, a colander or strainer if draining
will be required, and holding and serving pieces.
SOAKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES

TH E LONG SO AK M E T H O D
THE SHO RT SOAK M E TH O D
Place the sorted and rinsed legumes in a
Place the sorted and rinsed legumes in
container and add enough cool water to
a pot and add enough water to cover by
cover them by 2 in/5 cm- Let the legumes
2 in/5 cm- Bring the water to a simmer.
soak in the refrigerator for 4 hours to over
Remove the pot from direct heat and cov
night, depending on the type of legume.
er. Let the legumes steep for 1 hour.
c h a p te r 24 C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
753
basic formula
Simmered Whole
Grains or Legumes
(10 servings)
Stock or water, as needed

to cover grains or legumes
throughout cooking time
Standard sachet depices
Salt and pepper
aromatic vegetables
or bouquet garni
Mirepoix or other
1 lb/454 g grains or
1 lb/454 g legumes
method
at-a-glance
expert tips Q
1. Soak legumes, if desired.

2. Combine the grains or
legumes w ith the cold

liquid.
choose well-seasoned, flavor-
ful liquids to cook the grains or legumes:
3. Bring to a rolling boil.

S T O C K /B R O T H /W IN E
4. Establish a simmer
and cook to the proper

doneness.
5. Drain and serve or hold in a
Adding them directly to the grains or legumes will infuse flavor throughout the
cooking process:
warm place.
A R O M A T IC VE G ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS / W HOLE OR GROUND SPIC ES / GARLIC
Use whole grains whenever possible, as
they have increased health benefits; brown rice, quinoa, wheat berries, kasha,
millet, and barley are just a few options.
754
simmering grains and legumes
1. cook the grain or legumes.

Combine the grain or legumes with the cooking liquid
and bring to a full boil. Reduce the heat slightly to a sim
mer and cook the grain or legumes until done as desired.
Legumes and some grains need to be stirred occasionally
as they cook to prevent scorching. Check the level of the
cooking liquid and add more as necessary to keep the le
gumes or grain completely covered.
To check fo r doneness, taste a grain or legume. Salt is
typically added to legumes after they have become ten
der. Adding salt or acidic ingredients, such as citrus juices
or vinegar, earlier can toughen the skin if added at the
start of cooking time.
Drain the grain or legumes or let them cool in the
cooking liquid if they are to be used later. This keeps the
skins tender. In many cases, the cooking liquid is an im
portant ingredient in the finished dish. Finish and serve on
heated plates or use in another preparation.
If liquid is not entirely absorbed, drain the grains in a
colander and suspend it over a pot. Cover the pot and let
the grain steam dry fo r a few minutes over low heat. Use a
fork to gently flu ff the grain, but do not stir; stirring may
cause starch granules to burst, creating a gluey texture.
Adjust the seasoning as necessary and appropriate with
salt, pepper, and other ingredients. Hold the dish in a
warm place, if necessary, until ready to serve.
755
C u l in a r y
g r a in s
m a y
u n d er g o
s o m e
ty p e
of
p r o c e s s in g
(m il l in g ) b efo r e
t h e y
reach
the
K I T C H E N TO P R O D U C E M E A L S A N D C E R E A L S . W H E N A W H O L E G R A I N I S M I L L E D , I T IS B R O K E N D O W N
I N T O S U C C E S S I V E L Y S M A L L E R P A R T I C L E S . D E P E N D I N G O N T H E G R A I N , T H E F I N A L R E S U L T M I G H T BE
Q .U IT E C O A R S E ( C R A C K E D W H E A T O R G R O A T S ) O R Q .U IT E F I N E ( c O R N M E A L OR F A R I N A ) . S O M E G R A I N S
A R E T R E A T E D B E F O R E M I L L I N G . B U L G U R W H E A T , F O R E X A M P L E , I S S T E A M E D A N D D R I E D B E F O R E I T IS
CRUSHED.
simmering and
boiling cereals
and meals
Cereals include various forms of oats, buckwheat groats, and rye flakes, as well as cracked
grains like bulgur. Meals include grits and polenta, farina, semolina, and cream of rice.
(Flours are even more finely ground.) Cereals and meals vary widely according to the way
in which they are processed. Meals and cereals may be ground coarsely or finely. The bran
and germ may be left intact or removed. Coarser cereals produce a dense, porridge-like
texture; finer grinds produce a smooth, even silky, texture similar to a pudding.
All cereals and grains should have a fresh, appealing aroma. As they age, the natural
oils can become rancid. Storing grains, cereals, and meals in the freezer can prevent spoil
age. Some cereals and grains should be rinsed before cooking. Others must be dry so that
they can be added gradually to the cooking liquid.
Water, stock, or broth may be used as the cooking liquid, depending on the grain, the
dish, and the menu. Cereals and grain meals are generally cooked in just as much liquid as
they can absorb; each type of cereal or meal will absorb a different amount of liquid. (Refer
to package or recipe directions for details.)
Salt is generally added to the cooking water, and sometimes spices or herbs are added
as well. Taste and adjust the seasoning at the end of the cooking time. Grains tend to need
considerable salt; otherwise they taste flat.
The pots for cooking the cereal or meal can be small or large, depending on the amount,
but in general they should have a heavy bottom.
756
Simmering Cereals or
Meals
Stock or broth, water, milk, or

a combination of liquids
Aromatic vegetables such

as onions or garlic, or sugar,
honey, or other sweeteners for
Salt and pepper
sweetened preparations
(10 servings)
1 lb/454 g cereal or cracked or
flaked grain or 1 lb/454 g grain meal
Bouquet garni or sachet depices
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Bring the liquid to a boil or
combine the liquid and the
cereal or meal and bring
to a boil, depending on the
grain.
Add the cereal or meal to
the boiling liquid in a thin,
even stream. (If the grain
was added in step 1, om it
this step.)
3
Establish a simmer
and cook to the proper
doneness.
Serve or hold in a warm
place.
ex p ert tips
choosewell-seasoned,flavor-
ful liquids to cook the cereal or meal. Use each liquid alone or combine to
create different results:
S T O C K /B R O T H /M IL K
Adding them directly into the grains or legumes will infuse flavor throughout
the cooking process:
A R O M A T IC VEG E TAB LE S / B O U Q U ET G A R N I / S A C H ET D EPIC ES / GARLIC
Depending on the desired result,
simmering and boiling cereals and meals
basic formula
sweeteners can be
added to achieve a different flavor:

S U G A R / H O N E Y / M A P LE S Y R U P
757
1. depending on the grain, bring

the liquid to a full boil and add the cereal or meal in a thin
stream, stirring constantly, or combine the cereal and
liquid and bring to a boil. You may also add the cereal (po
lenta) to cold water like you would for a slurry and then
bring it up to a simmer. This helps to prevent clumps from
forming. Salt and other seasonings may be added to the
liquid as it comes to a boil, along with any other desired
seasonings and aromatics.
Reduce the heat to establish a simmer and cook,
stirring as necessary, until done. Most cereals should be
stirred occasionally as they cook to prevent scorching.
Drag the spoon across the bottom of the pot and into the
corners to release the cereal or meal. The mixture will
thicken noticeably while cooking. Some meals or cereals
may become s tiff enough to pull away from the sides of
the pot and are relatively heavy in texture. Others remain
fluid enough to pour easily.
2. cook grain meals
so that they are liquid
enough to pour when they are still warm. They should also
have a relatively smooth, creamy texture. Line a sheet pan
with parchment paper and spread hot polenta in an even
layer for quick cooling.
758
dings made from grain meals will be thick, with a coarse

to smooth consistency, depending on the cereal. Cold
cooked meals such as polenta can be cut into a variety of
shapes, then sauteed, grilled, baked, or pan fried before
being served.
CHEF'S NOTES ON POLENTA

Ingredients such as vegetables and cheese
Stir them into the hot, just-cooked polenta
may be added to polenta when it is to be
before it is chilled. Spread the polenta into
chilled and baked or fried. Vegetables are
an even layer, cover, and refrigerate until
cooked and then added to the grain im
it is thoroughly chilled. Cut as desired and
mediately after cooking while it is still hot.
pan fry or bake to crisp the outside and
Vegetables should be cut into small dice
heat through before serving.
simmering and boiling cereals and meals
3. evaluate the quality of the finished

cooked meal or cereal. Polenta, porridges, and pud
and sauteed and seasoned appropriately.
Chapter 24 C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
759
O rig in a lly
fro m
th e
M id d le
E a s t, p i la f
(a ls o
c a lle d
pilau)
is a g r a i n
d is h
in w h i c h
th e
G R A I N U S U A L L Y R I C E I S F I R S T H E A T E D IN A P A N , E I T H E R D R Y O R IN FAT, A N D T H E N C O M B I N E D W I T H
A H O T L i a U I D A N D C O O K E D , C O V E R E D , O V E R D I R E C T H E A T O R IN T H E O V E N .
pilaf
Pilafs may be simple dishes, composed of only the grain and cooking liquid, or they may
be quite substantial and include a wide range of additional ingredients such as meat or
shellfish, vegetables, nuts, or dried fruits. In a pilaf, the grains remain separate and take
on a nutty flavor from their initial sauteing, and have a somewhat firm er texture than when
boiled.
Rice is the grain most frequently used to prepare a pilaf, though other grains, such as
bulgur or barley, can also be used. If necessary, rinse and air-dry the grain by spreading it
out in a thin layer on a sheet pan.
A neutral-flavored vegetable oil is most often used to sweat the aromatics and saute
the grain, but a cooking fat that will contribute a flavor of its own, such as butter or ren
dered duck fat, may also be used.
Stock or broth is generally the preferred cooking liquid. Bring the liquid to a boil in a
separate pot before adding it to the grain to help shorten the cooking time. To impart a
particular flavor and/or color, substitute vegetable or fru it juice or a vegetable coulis for
up to half of the liquid. If the juice is acidic (tomato juice, for instance), the cooking time
may need to be increased by as much as 15 to 20 minutes.
A member of the onion family, such as finely diced or minced onions, shallots, green
onions, garlic, or leeks, is usually required for a pilaf. In addition to onions, bay leaves and
thyme are commonly used for flavor. Other herbs and spices may also be added. Additional
vegetables may be added to sweat along with the onion. Other ingredients, including sea
food, meat, vegetables, and nuts, are often added. (Refer to recipes for details.)
A heavy-gauge pot of the appropriate size, fitte d with a lid, is required to allow steam
ing and to prevent scorching. Holding and serving pieces are also needed.
760
basic formula
Pilaf
(10 servings)
2 cups/480 mL rice, quinoa,
or similar whole grains or
1 lb/454 g orzo or similar
small pasta shapes or
14 ozto 1 lb/397 to
454 g barley or lentils
28 to 32 fl oz/840 to 960 mL
seasoned stock, broth, or water
40 fl oz/1.20 L stock, broth, or

water for brown rice, quinoa,
for nonconverted rice or
or similar whole grains or
28 fl oz/840 mL stock, broth,

or water for Carolina rice or
32 to 40 fl oz/960 mLto 1.20 L

stock, broth, or water for orzo or
similar small pasta shapes or
24 fl oz/720 mL stock,
broth, or water for basmati,
40 to 48 fl oz/1.20 to 1.44 L
stock, broth, or water for barley
texmati, or jasmine rice or

64 fl oz/1.92 L stock, broth,
or water for wild rice or
Salt and pepper

Bay leaf, thyme, or other herbs
Onions or other aromatic vegetables
m eth o d
at-a-g lan ce
Heat a cooking fat.
ex p ert tips Q
Add onions and sweat

them.
Add the grain and saute it.
Add the liquid and
aromatics.
Bring the liquid to a
simmer.
Cover the pot and place it
in the oven.
choosewell-seasoned,flavor-
ful liquids to cook the pilaf:

STOCK / BROTH
Adding them directly into the pilaf will infuse flavor throughout the cooking
process:
A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES / FRESH H ERBS / G A R LIC
Cook until individual grains

are tender.
serve the pilaf.
For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as

they have increased health benefits; brown rice, quinoa, wheat berries, kasha,
millet, and barley are just a few options.
ch a p te r 24 C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
1. sweat the aromatic vegetables

in fa t in a heavy-bottom ed pot until softened. Add the
grains and saute, stirring frequently, until they are well
coated with fat.
Heating the grain in hot fat, known as parching, begins
gelation of the starches. This encourages the grains to
remain separate a fte r they are cooked. It also encourages
the grains to pick up the flavor of the aromatics.
2. heat the liquid, add it to the grains, and

bring to a simmer. Heating the liquid before adding it
speeds up the cooking process. Stir the grains once or
twice as they come up to a simmer to prevent them from
sticking to the bottom of the pot. Add any additional
flavoring ingredients at this point. Cover the pot and com
plete the cooking in a medium oven or over low heat on
the stovetop.
762
3. when the liquid is fully absorbed (18 to

2 0 minutes fo r rice, other grains wilt vary; see the chart
on page 11 62 ), remove the pot from the heat and let the
pilaf rest, covered, fo r 5 minutes. Letting the pilaf rest al
lows it to absorb the remaining liquid and steam. Uncover
and use a fork to flu ff the grains and release the steam.
Adjust the seasoning.
Evaluate the quality of the finished pilaf. Test a few
grains by biting into them. They should be tender but with
a noticeable texture, not so ft and mushy. In addition, the
individual grains should separate easily. There should be
no liquid visible in the bottom of the pot. Pilafs th at have
been overcooked have a pasty flavor; the individual grains
may be mushy or soggy and may clump together. Grains
that have been undercooked or cooked in too little liquid
are overly crunchy.
CHEF'S NOTES ON PILAF

Adding lentils to rice pilaf makes a heartier
amount of time that it takes to cook rice or
dish that can be served on its own or as
other similar grains, so the resulting pilaf
the main component of a vegetarian plate.
will be fluffy and dry, not mushy. Add any
Brown and green lentils are the only
other ingredients such as vegetables, meat,
legumes that are quick-cooking enough
or fish as you would to any traditional
to add to a pilaf. They cook in the same
pilaf.
A C L A S S IC R IS O T T O IS A R IC H , C R E A M Y D IS H W I T H N E A R L Y A P O R R ID G E - L IK E C O N S IS T E N C Y , Y E T EACH
G R A IN OF RICE R E T A IN S A D IS T IN C T B ITE .
In
I T A L I A N R I S O T T O , T H E R I C E IS P A R C H E D A S I N T H E P I L A F
M E T H O D , B U T T H E L I Q U I D IS A D D E D A N D A B S O R B E D G R A D U A L L Y W H I L E T H E G R A I N IS S T I R R E D A L M O S T
C O N S T A N T L Y . T h e STARCH SL O W LY R E L E A S E S D U R IN G TH E CO O K IN G PR O C ES S, PR O D U C IN G A C R E A M Y
TEXTURE.
risotto
Grated cheese is often included, and vegetables, meats, or fish may be added to create a
risotto th at can be served as an appetizer or main course. Although risotto's preparation
is relatively lengthy and requires constant attention, there are ways to streamline the pro
cess, making it suitable for restaurant service.
Risotto is traditionally made with special Italian varieties of medium-grain round rice.
The best known of these is Arborio, but other varieties include Vialone Nano and Carnaroli. Other grains, including other long-grain or brown rices, barley, wheat berries, or small
pasta shapes, may also be prepared with this method, but the quality o f the finished dish is
not the same as a risotto made with an Italian medium-grain rice. The cooking tim e will be
longer fo r brown rice and whole grains, and the amount of liquid required may be greater.
The cooking liquid most often suggested fo r risotto is a high-quality stock or broth.
Measure the appropriate quantity of stock or broth, season it if necessary, and bring to a
simmer before starting to cook. Wine may replace a portion of the stock or broth in some
recipes. Simmering the stock firs t shortens the risotto's cooking tim e somewhat and pro
vides an opportunity to add ingredients to infuse the broth with flavor and color. Opinions
d iffe r regarding whether wine should be added early in the cooking tim e or nearer the end.
Some chefs prefer to combine the stock and wine and bring them to a simmer together, to
cook away the harsh flavor o f raw wine and improve the dish's taste.
Finely minced leeks, shallots, or onions are usually included in a risotto. Other aromatic
vegetables, including garlic, mushrooms, fennel, carrots, or celery, may be added to some
dishes. They should be finely cut or thinly sliced to release their flavors fully. Spices such
as saffron and fresh herbs may also be added.
Butter contributes a sweet, rich flavor to a risotto. Other fats and oils, especially olive
oil, may also be used. Cheese, usually Parmesan or Romano, should be added as close to
service tim e as possible to assure the best flavor. M eat, seafood, fish, poultry, or vegeta
bles may be included.
A wide, heavy-gauge saucepan or sautoir is best for making risotto. Use a spoon, p ref
erably wooden or heat-proof silicone, fo r stirring, and if the risotto is to be cooled and
finished later, use a sheet pan or similar wide shallow pan fo r rapid cooling.
764
risotto
basic formula
Risotto
(10 servings)
1 lb/454 gfideo or
similar thin noodles
(Optional: Replace up to 20% of the

cooking liquid with dry white wine)
2 cups/480 mL Arborio or
other medium- to short-grain
l'/z to l 3/tq t /1 .4 4 to 1.68 L stock,
Salt and pepper
broth, or water for white rices.
white or brown rice or

1 lb/454 g orzo or similar
Bay leaf, thyme, or other herbs

Brown rices or small pastas
may require more.
Onions or other aromatic vegetables
small pasta shapes or

Grated cheese
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
ex p ert tips
Heat a cooking fat.

2. Add onion and other
aromatics.
Add the rice and cook it
until it is glazed.
Add the simmering liquid in
three parts; s tir constantly
as the rice absorbs the
liquid.
Add the wine, if used, as
the fina l addition of liquid.
6 . A djust the seasoning and
serve the risotto.
There 3re three baSIC points
at which flavoring and/or sea
sonings may be added to the risotto.
Before the rice is added,
aromatic vegetables may be added
to sweating onion to bolster the finished flavor of a risotto. Some examples

are:
CAR R OTS / C E LE R Y / GARLIC
Herbs and seasonings
may be used by first adding them to the
liquid to infuse. The choice of liquid will also do a lot to determine the flavor of
the finished dish and should be selected carefully to complement all the other
flavors. Some common herbs and seasoning are:
BAY LEAVES / SA FFR O N / W ATER FR O M R E H Y D R A T IN G D RIED M U S H R O O M S
Near or at the end of cooking,
garnish ingredients may be
added. The timing for the addition of these ingredients is important and will
depend on the required cooking time of the individual ingredient:
C U T OR W H O LE V E G E TA B LES , SU CH AS BRO CCOLI, PEAS, OR ASPAR A GU S /
FRESH HERBS, SU CH AS B A SIL, O R EG A N O , OR SAGE / SE A FO O D, SUCH AS
S H RIM P, SC A LLO PS , OR S Q U ID
For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as

they have increased health benefits; farro easily replaces Arborio rice and
results in a similar final product.
ch a p te r 24 C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
765
1. parch the rice in fat in a heavy-gauge

saucepan, sautoir, or rondeau after sweating the aromat
ics. Onions and other aromatic vegetables should be given
sufficient time to sweat in the hot butter to fully develop
their flavor. In some risottos, a cooked onion puree is used
instead of chopped onions. Spices, either left whole or
ground, may be added at this point as well. (If using saf
fron, infuse it into the cooking liquid fo r best flavor and
color.)
Cooking the rice in the fat produces the correct
finished texture in the risotto. Once a toasted aroma be
comes apparent, stir in the firs t addition of liquid.
2. add the simmering liquid in

parts. Add one-quarter to one-third of the cooking liquid
to the parched rice and stir constantly over medium heat
until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding portions of
the cooking liquid in this manner. A fter the rice absorbs
the firs t addition of the liquid, the grains appear firm and
quite distinct, and no real creaminess is evident yet. A fter
the rice absorbs the second addition of liquid, the grains
appear more tender and they begin to adopt a creamy,
sauce-like consistency.
766
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
risotto
3. stir constantly
until the entire amount of
liquid has been incorporated, the rice is fully cooked, and

the risotto is creamy and thick without becoming mushy.
The average cooking time fo r risotto prepared with Arborio rice is 20 minutes.
Although the best risotto is prepared from start to
finish just prior to service, it is possible to partially cook
the dish in advance. To do this, remove the risotto from
the heat after the rice has absorbed 2/3 to 3A of the total
amount of cooking liquid. Pour the risotto onto a sheet
pan and spread it in an even layer. Cool it rapidly and
refrigerate. To finish risotto held in this manner, add the
final one-quarter to one-third of the cooking liquid to a
saucepan or sautoir and warm. Return all the parcooked
risotto to the pot with the warmed cooking liquid and heat
it over medium heat. Finish cooking until the risotto is
creamy and the rice is fully cooked. This can also be done
by the portion.
4. vigorously stir
butter and grated cheese
or other finishing ingredients into the risotto over low

heat until well blended. Some garnish ingredients may be
added early in the cooking process so that they fully cook
along with the risotto. Others may be cooked separately
and added at the end. (Refer to specific recipes fo r de
tails.) Add fresh herbs, if desired, adjust the seasoning,
and serve the risotto on heated plates.
Evaluate the quality of the finished risotto. Italians
describe a properly cooked risotto as a l l ' o n d a ("wave
like"), meaning that the risotto has a creamy, almost por
ridge-like consistency, but individual grains are slightly
firm with a discernable texture. Risotto that has been
cooked over too high heat or too rapidly will not develop
the proper consistency, nor will it be adequately cooked.
The finished consistency should be creamy and the ri
sotto grains should be al dente.
chapter 24 C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
767
Black Bean Mash

Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans
Black Beans with

Peppers and Chorizo
Makes 10 servings
6 q t/5 .7 6 L water or Chicken Stock

12 o z/3 4 0 g dried black beans
2 bay leaves
3 q t/2 .8 8 L water or Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g minced bacon
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g sliced Mexican chorizo
3 o z/8 5 g medium-dice red pepper
3 o z/8 5 g medium-dice green pepper
2 o z/5 7 g sliced green onions, plus

additional for garnish
the beans using the long or short method (see page
753)-
2 .. Drain the soaked beans.
3 . Combine the beans and water in a medium stockpot
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream (optional)
and add the bay leaves and dried oregano. Simmer

for l hour.
4 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are

5 . Remove the bay leaves, strain any excess liquid from

the beans, and reduce it until syrupy.
753). Drain.
2 . Combine the beans and water in a medium pot. Sim

mer the beans for 1 hour.
heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until ten
tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. Set the beans
der. Add the cumin and chopped oregano and stir to
aside in their cooking liquid.
combine.
7 . Combine the beans with the onion mixture and pu
4 . In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat

and add the bacon. Cook until the bacon fat is ren
ree in a blender (working in batches if necessary).
dered. Add the onions and saute until tender and
If the mixture becomes too thick to process, add the
lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and
reduced bean liquid to thin it out. Season with salt

and pepper.
cook 1 minute more, stirring frequently.
8 . Serve immediately or hold warm for service.
5 . Add the chorizo and peppers and saute, stirring fre

quently, until the peppers are tender, 6 to 8 minutes.
6 . Drain the beans and add them with enough cooking
liquid to keep them moist (the consistency should be
that of a thick stew). You may need to add more liquid
intermittently during the rest of the cooking process.
Simmer the beans until the flavors have developed
and all the ingredients are heated through.
7 . Add the green onions and herbs and season with salt
and pepper. Serve the beans with sour cream, if desired.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P AST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes
Makes 10 servings
4 . Stir in the beans, sun-dried tomatoes, cumin, and

coriander and heat through. Season with salt and
pepper. Keep hot.
5 . Heat a crepe pan or small saute pan over medium

heat. Brush the pan with oil. Pour 4 fl oz/i2o mL of
CREPES
the batter into the hot pan, swirling and tilting the
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL liquid from cooked black beans
pan to coat the bottom. Cook, reducing the heat if

necessary, until the first side is set and has a little
33A o z/1 0 6 g all-purpose flour

33A o z/1 0 6 g cornstarch
color, about 2 minutes.

6 . Use a thin metal or silicone spatula to loosen the
2 V i tb sp /3 7.50 g butter, melted
crepe and turn it over. Cook on the other side until
21/2 ts p /8 .5 0 g s a lt
set and very lightly browned, about 1 minute more.
5 eggs
Remove from the pan and stack the crepes between

layers of parchment paper or wax paper as you cook.
FILLING
7 . Spoon about 3 tbsp/45 mL of the filling onto each
2V 2tbsp /37 mL olive oil
crepe. Sprinkle with cilantro and cheese and fold the
crepe into quarters. Serve on heated plates with salsa

and sour cream, and garnish with green onions.

2 jalapenos, seeded and minced
grain and legume recipes
Vegetarian Black Bean

Crepes
NOTES: The ba tte r can be made ahead and refrigerated for

up to 12 hours. S ubstitute Jack cheese fo r Chihuahua.
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked black beans

4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped sun-dried tomatoes
V A ts p /2 .5 0 g ground cumin
ijoles Refritos
V A ts p /2 .5 0 g ground coriander
Salt and ground black pepper, as needed
Makes 10 servings
Oil, as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL canola oil
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped cilantro
1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
2'/2 cups/600 mL shredded queso Chihuahua
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Stewed Black Beans (page 775)

Vegetable Stock (page 265), as needed
GARNISH
2 o z/5 7 g queso fresco, grated
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Salsa Roja (page 954)
Tortilla Chips (page 962), as needed

1 o z/2 8 g green onions
1 . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium

heat. Add the onions and saute until caramelized,
1 . To make the crepes, combine all the crepe ingre
7 to 9 minutes. Remove the onions and reserve for
dients in a food processor or blender. Blend for 30

seconds. Scrape down the sides and process for 1
minute more. The batter should be very smooth and
another use, if desired.
2 . Add the beans to the flavored oil. Mash the beans

with a bean or potato masher and reduce the heat if
have the consistency of heavy cream. If necessary,
necessary to prevent burning.
adjust the consistency with milk or flour.
2 . Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
3 . Cook the beans until they have dried out slightly.

Continue to cook, stirring to prevent sticking, un
3 . To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a large saute
til they are paste-like. Adjust the consistency with
pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and

jalapenos. Saute until the onions are translucent, 6
to 8 minutes.
broth, if necessary.
Serve immediately with cheese and tortilla chips.
7 71
Corona Beans (Fagioli
Creamed Pinto Beans
a ll'U c c e lle t t o )
(Frijoles Maneados)
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried corona beans
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried pinto beans
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g garlic, crushed
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g prosciutto or pancetta, rough chop
5 ancho chiles, seeds and membranes removed
2 carrots, rough chop
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground cumin
4 celery ribs, rough chop
1 tb s p /1 5 g tomato paste
1 thyme sprig
V / 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g Mexican oregano
1 rosemary sprig
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL milk
1 bay leaf
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped sage
'/ 2
the beans using the long or short method (page 753).
753)-
2 . Drain the soaked beans.

3 . Heat half of the oil in a medium pot over medium

3 . Place the beans in a large pot with the water and
onions. Bring to a simmer, covered, over medium
heat and cook until tender, about 20 minutes.
4 . Heat the chiles briefly under a salamander without
heat, add the garlic, and cook until lightly browned,
allowing them to cook. Cut the chiles into chif
about 2 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook for l
fonade and add them to the beans along with the
minute. Add the carrots, celery, thyme, rosemary,
cumin, tomato paste, and oregano.
and bay leaf and cook for 2 minutes more.
4 . Add the beans and water. Simmer for l hour.

5 . Season with salt and continue to simmer until the
beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
6 . Remove the garlic, prosciutto, carrots, celery, thyme,
rosemary, and bay leaf and discard. The beans can
be drained for immediate use, reserving some of the
cooking liquid, or rapidly cooled and refrigerated in
their liquid.
7 . To finish, heat the remaining oil in a sauce pot over

medium heat. Add the beans with a small amount of
their cooking liquid. Stir in the chopped rosemary,
sage, and parsley, taking care not to break the beans.
5 . Using a spoon, scoop a portion of the beans (along

with a little of the cooking liquid) into a blender or
food processor. Puree with about 2 fl o z/6o mL of
the milk. Continue pureeing portions of the beans
with the milk until all the beans are pureed and all of
the milk is incorporated.
6 . Heat the oil in a small rondeau over medium heat.
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic. Add the
pureed beans and mix well. Season with salt and
pepper.
7 . Cover the pot, place in a 350F/i77C oven, and cook

until smooth and thick, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
8 . Top the beans with the cheese and serve immedi
ately or hold hot for service.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g black beans, rinsed and picked over
r
/2
Frijoles Puercos
Estilo Sinaloa
Makes 10 servings
tsp/B g ground cumin, toasted
lV 2 ts p /3 g paprika
1 tb s p /1 5 g tomato paste
3 saw leaf herb leaves
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried pinto beans

2 o z/5 7 g quartered white onion
1 tb sp /9 g garlic, smashed
4 o z/1 1 3 g lard
4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon, cut into small dice
4 o z/1 1 3 g Mexican chorizo, no casing
4 3/ t o z/1 3 5 g white onion, cut into small dice
6 o z/1 7 0 g onions, minced

2 o z/5 7 g canned chipotles in adobo sauce
1 serrano chile, minced
1 o z/2 8 g pitted green olives, diced
Frijoles a la Charra
1 p t/4 8 0 mL tomatoes, cut into medium dice
3 tb s p /3 0 g s a !t
the beans overnight.
1 . Soak the beans overnight in three times their vol

ume of water.
2 . Drain the beans from their soaking liquid. Place the

beans and enough water to cover by l in/2.5 cm in
a large saucepan. Add the cumin, oregano, paprika,
thyme, tomato paste, saw leaf, and pepper. Bring to a
simmer and cover with a lid while cooking.
3 . Heat the oil in a rondeau over medium heat and
2 .. Drain the soaked beans.

3 . Place the beans in a heavy-bottomed pot with the
quartered onion, garlic, and enough water to gener
ously cover the beans. Simmer until the beans are
4 . Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid and

discarding the onion and garlic. Let the beans cool.
sweat the onions, chile, garlic and tomatoes. Con
5 . Working in batches if necessary, transfer the cooled
tinue to cook until the vegetables are soft, but not
beans to a blender. Puree with just enough of the
browned, about 10 minutes. Add this mixture to the
reserved cooking liquid to make a smooth puree. Set
beans and continue to simmer until the beans are
aside.
tender and splitting apart. Add more water to the
6 . In a rondeau or heavy-bottomed pot, heat the lard
beans if necessary during cooking to keep the beans
over medium heat. Saute the bacon and chorizo
covered by only 1 in/2.5 cm. Season with salt and
until crisp. Remove the meats from the pan and re
pepper.
4 . Hold hot for service. Serve the beans in small earth

enware crocks on the plate.
serve. Add the diced onion, and saute until the onion
begins to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.
7 . Add the bean puree and stir constantly to prevent

sticking. When the mixture comes to a simmer, add
the cheese, chipotle, olives, reserved meat, and salt.
Serve hot.
773
Middle Eastern
Chickpeas
Roman-Style Lima
Beans
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried chickpeas
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried lima beans
SACHET D'EPICES
BOUQUET GARNI
V2
o z/1 4 g sliced ginger
2 thyme sprigs
tsp/B g cumin seed
2 oregano sprigs
1 ts p /1.50 g coriander seed
1 rosemary sprig
I/2 tsp /1 g cracked pink peppercorns
'/ 2
V 2 tsp /1 g cracked black peppercorns
2 leek leaves, 3 to 4 in /8 to 10 cm long
V /2
tsp /1 g cracked black peppercorns
'A tsp /1 g mustard seed

5 cardamom pods
1 cinnamon stick
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced pancetta
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onions
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onions
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
V2
1 Parmesan rind (optional)
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL red wine vinegar, or as needed
1 . Sort the chickpeas and rinse well with cold water.
Soak the chickpeas using the long or short method
(see page 753).

3 . To make the sachet d epices, combine all the ingre
dients in a piece of cheesecloth and tie into a pouch
with twine.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium sauce pot over medium
753)-
2.. Drain the soaked beans.

3 . To make the bouquet garni, sandwich the thyme,
oregano, rosemary, and peppercorns between the
leek leaves and tie into a bundle with twine.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium sauce pot over medium

heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat has
heat. Add the onions and sweat until tender and
rendered. Add the onions and sweat until tender and
translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook

another minute.
translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook
5 . Add the chickpeas, stock, and sachet. Simmer for 1

hour.
6 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the chickpeas
are tender to the bite.
7 . Remove and discard the sachet. Season the chick

peas with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
8 . Drain the chickpeas for immediate use or cool them
rapidly and refrigerate in their liquid.
774
another minute; do not let the garlic brown.
5 . Add the lima beans, stock, bouquet, and cheese rind,

if using. Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
7 . Remove the bouquet and season with vinegar, salt,

and pepper.
8 . Drain the lima beans for immediate use or cool them
rapidly and refrigerate in their liquid.
Makes 10 servings
Stewed Black Beans

Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g Boiled White Beans (page 777), drained

2 ts p /1 0 mL vegetable oil
1 ham hock
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice red pepper
Chicken Stock (page 263), as needed
2 o z/5 7 g minced jalapenos
Salt, as needed
3 chipotles in adobo sauce, finely chopped
2 fl o z/6 0 mL sherry vinegar
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice sun-dried tomatoes
Salt, as needed
Southwest White
Bean Stew

753)-
1 . Puree half of the cooked beans. Combine with the

remaining beans.
2 . Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions, peppers, jalapenos, and
garlic. Saute until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6
minutes.
3 . Add the beans and saute, stirring constantly, until

heated through.
4 . Add the vinegar and concasse and continue to saute

until very hot.
5 . Stir in the cilantro and season with salt and pepper.

Serve immediately or hold hot for service.

3 . Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add
the onions and garlic and sweat until translucent.
4 . Add the beans, ham hock, and enough stock to cover

the beans by 1 in/3 cm - Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
5 . Add the salt, chipotles, and tomatoes. Continue to

simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to
30 minutes.
6 . Remove the meat from the ham hock, discard the
bones, dice the meat, and add it back to the beans.
775
Falafel
Rice and Beans
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
11 o z/3 1 2 g dried chickpeas, sorted,

rinsed, and soaked overnight
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried red kidney beans,

sorted, rinsed, and soaked
11 o z/3 1 2 g dried fava beans, sorted,

rinsed, and soaked for 24 hours
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced bacon
1 bunch parsley, chopped

3 green onions, finely chopped
1 tsp/2gcayenne
1'A ts p /2.50 g ground coriander
6 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 tsp salt
l'/t t s p /3 .7 5 g baking powder

V/2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
5 o z/1 4 2 g long-grain white rice
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
V A o z/4 3 g chopped green onions
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme
Salt, as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying
1 . Drain the beans.

2 . Render the bacon in a medium saucepan over low
1 . Drain the soaked beans. Rinse and dry them.
heat. Add the garlic and sweat until aromatic. Add the
2 . In a food processor, blend the beans, parsley, onions,
stock and beans. Simmer until the beans are tender.
cayenne, cumin, coriander, garlic, baking powder,

and salt together in batches until the mixture is
homogeneous.
3 . Form the mixture into balls l to 1V2 in/3 to 4 cm in

diameter. Slightly flatten the balls.
4 . Heat the oil to 350F/i77C in a large rondeau or

fryer and deep fry the falafel until crisp and brown,
about 4 minutes.
3 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until

the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
4 . Add the rice and coconut milk to the beans. Cover

and simmer until the rice is tender and all the liquid
has been absorbed, about 20 minutes.
5 . Gently fold in the green onions and thyme and sea

son with salt and pepper.
5 . Remove and drain briefly on paper towels. Serve

immediately.
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried red kidney beans,
sorted, rinsed, and soaked
5 . Bring the water to a boil in a heavy pot and add 2V2

oz/71 g salt. Add the rinsed rice to the boiling water
and simmer over low heat until tender, 10 to 15 min
utes. Stir the rice occasionally as it cooks to prevent
burning.
6 . Serve the beans immediately on a bed of the rice or
hold everything hot for service.
4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, ' / 2-in /l-c m slices

1 ham hock
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice celery
Boiled White Beans
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice green pepper
Makes 10 servings

1 o z /2 8 g bacon fa t
Salt, as needed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g long-grain white rice
l
/2
g al/5 .7 6 L water
1 . Drain the soaked beans, transfer them to a medium

stockpot, add the sausage and ham hock, and cover
with water by at least l in/3 cm - Simmer the beans
until they are completely tender. If necessary, add
additional water to keep the liquid 1 in/3 cm above
the beans as they cook. Remove from the heat and
reserve the beans, sausage, and ham hock in the
cooking liquid.
2 . Saute the onions, celery, green peppers, and garlic

in the bacon fat in a large rondeau until they begin
to turn golden brown. Add the cooked beans, meats,
and liquid and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with
salt and pepper. The beans should remain brothy. If
necessary, add additional water.
3 . Remove the meat from the ham hocks, discard the

bones, cut the meat into medium dice, and add back
to the beans. Mash enough of the beans with the
back of a spoon so that they become creamy. Add
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried white beans

Red Beans and Boiled

Rice
1 ham hock (optional)

2 q t/1 .9 2 L w ater or Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
753)2 . Drain the soaked beans.

3 . Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add
the onions and sweat until translucent.
4 . Add the beans, ham hock, if using, water, and sachet

d epices. Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
5 . Season with salt and continue to simmer until the

beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
6 . If using, remove the meat from the ham hock, dis
card the bones, cut the meat into a medium dice,
and add it back to the beans.
7 . Remove the sachet depices.

8 . Drain the beans for immediate use or cool them rap
idly and refrigerate in their liquid.
hot sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Keep hot.

the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
777
Vegetarian Chili
Makes 10 servings
5 . Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high

heat. Add the onions, peppers, garlic, chipotle,
adobo sauce, and poblanos and saute until aromat

Salt, as needed
ic and just turning golden.

6 . Add the chili powder, cumin, coriander, and cin
namon and cook until aromatic. Stir in the tomato
paste, and cook for 2 minutes.
7 . Add the wine and reduce by two-thirds. Add the

8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice green pepper
stock and tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice red pepper
gently until the vegetables are tender, 8 to 10
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice yellow pepper
minutes.
'/ 2
V i to 1 chipotle in adobo sauce, finely chopped

1 ts p /5 mL adobo sauce
8 . Add the drained beans and cook 5 minutes more.
9 . Add the masa slurry to the chili, mix well, and

bring back to simmer. Season with salt, pepper,
and sugar.
2 poblanos, roasted, seeded, and peeled, small dice
0 . Serve immediately, garnished with cheese, sour

2 ts p /4 g Chili Powder (page 3 6 8 or purchased)
cream, and cilantro, or hold hot for service.
3A ts p /1.50 g ground coriander
Pinch ground cinnamon
2 'A o z/71 g tomato paste
5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice tomato
o z/1 4 g masa harina, mixed with
vegetable stock to make a slurry
'/ 2

Sugar, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g grated Monterey Jack
753)-

3 . Transfer the beans to a large stockpot and add wa
ter to cover generously. Simmer for l hour.
4 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans

are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well
and reserve.
Rice Pilaf
Makes 10 servings
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
3A o z/21 g minced onion
28 to 32 f I o z/8 4 0 to 960 mL Chicken
Stock (page 263), hot
Wheat Berry Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f wheat

berries fo r the long-grain white rice. Soak them
overnight in cold water in the re frig era to r and drain
before cooking. Increase the stock to 40 f I o z/1 .2 L.
Increase the cooking tim e to between 1 and lVth'ours.
Pearl Barley Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f pearl

barley fo r the long-grain white rice. Increase the stock to
40 to 4 8 f I oz/1.2 to 1.44 L. Increase the cooking tim e to
40 minutes.
1 bay leaf
2 thyme sprigs
Salt, as needed
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa

ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over
Brown Rice Pilaf with

Pecans and Green
Onions
Makes 10 servings
medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring fre

quently, until tender and translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the rice and saute over medium-high heat, stir
2 cups/480 mL long-grain brown rice

V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter or oil
ring frequently, until coated with butter and heated
through, 2 to 3 minutes.
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
4 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer, stirring to pre

vent the rice from clumping together or sticking to
the bottom of the pot.
5 . Add the bay leaf, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover the

Salt, as needed
pot and place it in a 350F/i77C oven or leave it
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pecans, chopped
over low heat on the stovetop. Cook until the grains
2 o z/5 7 g sliced green onions
are tender to the bite, 16 to 20 minutes.

6 . Allow the rice to rest 5 minutes, fluff with a fork,
and serve immediately or hold hot for service.

Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf (Valencia): S ubstitute an
medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring fre
equal amount o f short-grain white rice fo r the longgrain. Decrease the stock to between 16 and 2 4 fl
quently, until tender and translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
o z/4 80 and 720 mL. Increase the cooking tim e to

between 2 0 and 30 minutes.
Converted White Rice Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f

converted white rice fo r the long-grain. Use 2 8 f I oz/8 40
mL chicken stock. Increase the cooking tim e to between
20 and 25 minutes.
Wild Rice Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f wild rice

fo r the long-grain. Increase the stock to 2 q t/1 .9 2 L.
Increase the cooking tim e to 45 minutes to 1 hour.
3 . Add the rice and saute over medium-high heat, stir

ring frequently, until coated with butter and heated
through, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the stock to the rice and bring to a simmer, stir

ring to prevent the rice from clumping together or
sticking to the bottom of the pot.
5 . Add the bouquet garni, salt, and pepper. Cover the

pot and place it in a 350F/i77C oven or leave it
over low heat on the stovetop. Cook until the grains
are tender to the bite, 35 to 40 minutes.
a fork to fold in the pecans and green onions while
Arroz Blanco
Makes
10
servings
separating the grains and releasing the steam. Serve

immediately or hold hot for service.

Hot water, as needed
Short-Grain Brown Rice Pitaf: Substitute an equal amount

of short-grain brown rice fo r the long-grain. Decrease
the amount o f stock to V A q t/1 .2 0 L. Decrease the
cooking tim e to between 30 and 35 minutes.

1 garlic clove, minced
2 ts p / 6 g salt, or as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL canola oil
2 parsley sprigs
Annatto Rice
Makes
10
servings

1 o z/2 8 g butter
3A fI o z/2 2.50 mL annatto paste
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice Standard or
V 2 Scotch bonnet, seeded and minced
1 bay leaf
1 . Cover the rice with hot water and let stand for 5
minutes. Drain the rice in a strainer.
2 . Rinse the rice in the strainer under cold water until

the water runs clear. Remove excess water from the
rice by shaking the strainer vigorously.
3 . Puree the onions, garlic, salt, and 4 fl oz/120 mL hot

water in a blender.
4 . Heat the canola oil in a medium saucepan over me

dium heat and saute the rice until it crackles when
stirred, about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the pureed ingredients and 24 fl oz/720 mL hot
water and bring to a full boil. Allow to boil for 3
Salt, as needed
minutes.
D. Allow the rice to rest 5 minutes. Uncover and use
6 . Season with salt and add the parsley. Reduce the

heat to a simmer and cover with a tight-fitting lid.

Cook until small holes appear in the rice, about 20

minutes. Fluff with a fork, remove the parsley, re
cover, and hold hot for service.

low heat and add the annatto paste. Stir to dissolve
the paste.
3 . Add the mirepoix, Scotch bonnet, garlic, and bay

leaf. Cook over medium heat until the onions are
translucent, about 10 minutes.
4 . Add the rice, stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to a sim

mer. Cover, and cook in a 350F/i77C oven for 12 to
15 minutes.
5 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a

fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
chapter 24 C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
781
Arroz Mexicano
Arroz Brasileiro
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g white long-grain rice
l'/2 o z /4 3 g butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g Roma tomatoes, cut into medium dice
3 o z/8 5 g white onion, medium dice
'/ 2
ts p /1.50 g minced garlic
/2
ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
2 tb s p /2 0 g salt, plus more as needed
1 clove
2 fl o z/6 0 mL canola oil
28 to 32 f I o z/8 4 0 to 9 6 0 mL hot water
26 f 1o z/7 8 0 mL water
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g serrano chiles, minced
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, cut into small dice

3 o z/8 5 g green peas
3 o z/8 5 g potatoes, cut into small dice
Parsley sprigs

medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute
until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.
2 . Add the rice, stirring constantly, until the rice has

absorbed the butter and the grains are translucent.
1 . Cover the rice with hot water and let stand for 5
minutes. Drain the rice in a strainer.
2 . Rinse the rice in the strainer under cold water until

the water runs clear. Remove excess water from the
rice by shaking the strainer vigorously.
3 . In a blender or food processor, puree the tomatoes,

onions, garlic, and salt until smooth.
3 . Add the clove and water and bring to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat, season with salt and pepper,
cover, and simmer until the rice is tender, about 20
minutes.

fork, remove the clove, and serve immediately or
4 . Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium

heat and saute the rice until it crackles when stirred,
about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the puree to the rice and cook until it changes

color and dries out, 4 to 6 minutes.
Coconut Rice
Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the water and bring to a full boil. Add the chiles,
carrots, peas, potatoes, and parsley. Taste and season
14 o z/3 9 7 g long-grain white rice
with salt if necessary.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil or melted butter
7 . Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover with a tightfitting lid. Cook until small holes appear in the rice,
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
about 20 minutes.
Salt, as needed
8 . Fluff with a fork, remove the parsley sprigs, and let

stand, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

2 . Heat the oil in a heavy-gauge medium pot over medi

um heat. Add the rice and saute, stirring frequently,
until coated with butter and heated through.
son with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Cover

and cook in a 350F/i77C oven for 12 to 15 minutes.

Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Si's/): Fold 8 oz/2 2 7 g cooked

green peas into the prepared riso tto during the last few
minutes o f cooking.
Risotto with Asparagus Tips: Fold 2 / 2 oz/71 g blanched

asparagus tip s into the prepared riso tto during the last
few m inutes o f cooking. Finish the riso tto by adding 4
o z /1 13 g g ra te d Parmesan, 4 o z /1 13 g butter, and l /z
oz/43 g chopped parsley.
Risotto
Makes 10 servings
Risotto alia Milanese

Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g butter
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
V * ts p /0 .6 0 g saffron threads
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
3 . Add the water and coconut milk to the rice and sea
1 . Sweat the onions in the butter in a heavy-gauge

saucepan, sautoir, or rondeau until softened and

2 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the butter.
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL dry white wine
Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until a
toasted aroma rises, about 1 minute.
3 . Add one-third of the stock and cook, stirring con

stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
4 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por

tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding
the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is just tender
1 . Heat the stock in a medium sauce pot over low heat.

Add the saffron and season with salt and pepper.
Keep hot.
2.. Sweat the onions in 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a me
and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should
dium sautoir or sauce pot until softened and translu
be creamy.)
cent, 6 to 8 minutes.
5 . Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately

or hold warm for service.
3 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the oil. Cook,
stirring constantly, until a toasted aroma rises, about
1 minute.
Parmesan Risotto: Prepare the risotto, replacing up to onequarter o f the stock w ith a dry white wine. Add the wine
to the stock as it heats to a simmer fo r the best flavor.
Finish the ris o tto by adding 4 o z /1 13 g grated Parmesan
and 4 o z /1 13 g butter.
Wild Mushroom Risotto: Soak 3 oz/85 g dried wild

mushrooms in 8 f l o z/2 40 mL warm water fo r 30 minutes
to 1 hour. Drain the mushrooms and add to the bu tte r
w ith the onions. Strain the soaking liquid through a
paper filte r to remove any sediment, measure it, and use
it to replace an equal amount o f the stock.
4 . Add the wine and cook until dry.

5 . Add one-third of the stock and simmer, stirring con
the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is just tender
and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should
be creamy.)
7 . Stir in the butter, cheese, and the remaining oil.

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve im
mediately or hold warm for service.
Chapter 24 C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
783
Vegetarian Risotto
Makes 10 servings
7 . Serve the risotto topped with the vegetables, sage,

parsley, and pumpkin seeds, or gently fold the mix
ture into the risotto.
2 lb /9 0 7 g kale, cut into small dice

Oil, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g butternut squash, small dice
2 'A o z/6 3 g minced onion
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Risotto with Mussels

Makes 10 servings
5 lb /2.27 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded
13A q t/1 .6 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 265)
V A q t/1 .2 0 L Fish Fumet (page 255), hot
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g shaved Parmesan
2 lb /9 0 7 g portobello mushrooms, cut into small dice
2 lb /9 0 7 g red peppers, roasted,

peeled, cut into small dice
/2
1 . Steam the mussels in a small amount of salted water
3A o z/21 g chopped sage
in a covered tall pot until the shells open. Remove
the mussel meat from the shells and reserve. Decant
5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted pumpkin seeds
and strain the cooking liquid.
2.. Bring the stock and the cooking liquid from the mus
1 . Blanch the kale briefly in simmering salted water.
Shock in ice water, drain, and reserve.
2 . Lightly oil a small roasting pan and add the butternut

squash. Roast in a 400F/204C oven until just soft, 15
to 20 minutes. Reserve.
3 . Sweat the onions in the butter in a medium pot until

soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the rice and
mix thoroughly. Cook, stirring, until a toasted aroma
rises, about 1 minute.
4 . Add one-third of the stock and the sachet and cook, stir
ring constantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por
tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding the
next. Cook the risotto until the rice is tender but with
a pleasing texture and most of the liquid is absorbed.
5 . Remove the sachet. Season the risotto with salt and

pepper. Stir in the cheese. Hold warm.
6 . When ready to serve, heat the vegetable oil in a me
dium saute pan. Add the mushrooms and saute until
sels to a simmer in a medium sauce pot and season

with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
3 . Sweat the onions in 2 oz/57 g of the butter in a me

dium sautoir or sauce pot until softened and translu
cent, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the butter.

Cook, stirring constantly, until a toasted aroma rises,
about 1 minute.
5 . Add one-third of the stock and simmer, stirring con

the next.
7 . Add the mussel meat and cook until the rice is just
tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish
should be creamy.)
8 . Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley and the
remaining 4 oz/113 g butter. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper and serve immediately.
golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the kale, squash, and pep

pers. Saute until the mixture is heated through, toss
ing to combine the vegetables.
Makes 10 servings
Salt, as needed
Sushi Rice
Makes 10 full-size rolls or 20 half rolls
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg short-grain rice
Cool to cold water, as needed
1 piece kombu, 6-in /15-cm square (optional)
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the

water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 V i o z/7 1 g sugar
V A o z/3 5 g sea salt
2 . Bring the water to a rolling boil in a large sauce pot

and add salt.
3 . Add the rice in a thin stream, stirring it with a fork to

prevent the grains from clumping as they are added.
(There should be enough water to cover the rice.)

the water runs semiclear. Transfer the rice to a bowl,
cover with cool water, and soak 1 hour. Drain well.
2 . Combine the drained rice with 2 qt/1.92 L water in
When the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to a
a rice steamer. Steam until the rice is almost com
simmer and cover the pot.
pletely cooked, about 30 minutes.
4 . Simmer the rice until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain

immediately in a colander and set the colander in
the pot. Return to the heat to steam the rice dry for 5
minutes. (The rice should no longer be sticky.)
5 . Fluff with a fork and serve immediately or hold hot

for service.
Basic Boiled Rice
3 . Allow the rice to rest at room temperature for 10

minutes.
4 . If using the kombu, slash it with a knife in a few

places and wipe it with a damp cloth, only to remove
any sand, being careful not to remove any flavorful
white powder. Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, and
kombu in a small saucepan. Warm over low heat,
stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Do not let the
mixture boil. Cool to room temperature.
Steamed Long-Grain
Rice (L0 Han)
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g long-grain Chinese rice
I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L water, or as needed
5 . Transfer the rice to two hotel pans (2 in/5 cm deep).

Drizzle with the vinegar mixture. Use a wooden rice
paddle to cut and fold the rice with horizontal
strokes. Continue until the mixture has cooled and
takes on a shiny appearance.
6 . Combine the two pans of rice and serve immediately
or refrigerate for later use.

2 . Place the rice in a half hotel pan and add water to

cover by V4 in/6 mm.
3 . Cover tightly with plastic wrap and cook in a steamer

or rice cooker until the grains are tender, 45 minutes.

785
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage
Makes 10 servings
2
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
Thai Sticky Rice with

Mangos (Mamuang
Koo Nieo)
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice Chinese sausage

8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice carrots, blanched
14 o z/3 9 7 g sticky rice, soaked overnight

22 f I o z/6 6 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
12 o z/3 4 0 g Thai palm sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice shiitake mushrooms

3A o z/21 g salt
8 o z/2 2 7 g roughly chopped napa cabbage
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg cooked long-grain rice, chilled
Salt, as needed
l ' A o z/3 5 g granulated sugar

1 o z /2 8 g rice flour
2 tb s p /3 0 m L w a te r
4 mangos, peeled, pitted, and sliced
8 o z/2 2 7 g snow peas, cut into 3/t-in /2 -c m squares

5 eggs, beaten
2 fl o z/6 0 mL mushroom soy sauce,
or as needed (optional)
1. Heat2floz/6om
Loftheoilinawokovermedium
heat.Addthesausageandcooktorenderthefat.
2 . Increasetheheatandaddtheonions. Stir-fryuntil
aromaticandbeginningtobrown.
3.A
ddthecarrots,mushrooms,andcabbage,inthat
order,allowingtimeforeachingredienttobegin
browningbeforeaddingthenext.
4 .A
ddtherice,salt,andpepperandstir-fryuntilthe
riceishotandbeginstobrown.
5.A
ddthesnowpeasandcookuntiltheyarebright
green.
6. Addtheremainingoiltothesidesofthewokand
drizzletheeggmixturearoundthetopoftherice.As
theeggmixturecooks,folditintotherice.Addthe
soysauce,ifusing.
7.Adjustseasoningwithsalt,pepper,andsoysauce, if
using.Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
Fried Rice with

Chinese Sausage
1. Drainthesoakedriceandplaceitinanelectricrice
steamerwithwaterorinabamboosteamerlined
withcheeseclothoverawokofsimmeringwater.
Steamuntilthegrainsaresoft,20to25minutes.
2.. W
hilethericeissteaming,combine5V2floz/165
mLofthecoconutmilkwiththepalmsugarand1
tbsp/10gofthesaltinasmallsaucepan.W
armover
lowheattodissolvethesaltandsugar.Mixwelland
setaside.
3.W
henthericeisdone,transferittoabowl.While
stillhot,addthecoconutmilk-sugarmixture.Using
aspatula,stirtocoatthegrainsquicklyandevenly.
Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntiltherice
absorbstheliquid,about15minutes.
4 . Com
binetheremainingcoconutmilk,salt,andthe
granulatedsugarinasaucepan.Bringtoaboiland
reducetheheat. Combinethericeflourandwater
andmixwell.Whilethesauceissimmering,drizzle
inthericeflourslurry,stirringconstantly.Returnto
aboil,immediatelyremovefromtheheat,andset
aside.
5. Serveim
mediatelywithV2to1floz/15to30mLof
thecoconuttoppingandmangoslicesperserving,or
holdhotforservice.
787
Paella Valenciana
Makes 10 servings
20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count)
2 ]A ts p /1 .8 0 g crushed saffron
5.A
ddthemusselsandshrimp.Coverandcookfor5
to7minutes. Duringthelastminute,addthepeas.
(Addmorestockduringcooking,ifnecessary,sothat
thericedoesnotdryout.)
6. Serveimmediately,garnishedwithgreenonionsand
piquillopeppers.
2 A q t/2 .1 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed

10 whole chicken legs, separated
Salt, as needed
Saffron Rice
Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice onion

6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice red pepper
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice green pepper
V / 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic
6 o z/1 7 0 g dry Spanish chorizo, sliced 1 in /3 mm thick
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Spanish rice
6 o z/1 7 0 g peeled, seeded, and large-diced tomato
20 clams, little necks, scrubbed
3 lb /1.36 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded
6 o z/1 7 0 g green peas, cooked
V / 2 o z/4 3 g thinly sliced green onion
4 piquillo chiles, cut into julienne
1 .Peelanddeveintheshrim
p,reservingtheshells.
Sautetheshellsin2tbsp/30mLoftheoiluntilthey
turnpink.Addthesaffronandstockandsimmerfor
30minutes. Strainandreservehot.
2 . Seasonthechickenwithsaltandpepper.Pour2
tbsp/30mLoftheoilintoapaellapanandheatto
thesmokepoint.Addthechickenandbrownonall
sides. Removefromthepanandreserve.
3.Pourtherem
ainingoilintothepanandaddtheon
ion,andpeppers. Sauteovermediumheatfor2to3
minutes.Addthegarlicandsautefor1minute.Add
thechorizoandrice,stirringtocoatthericewiththe
oil.
4 .A
ddthetomatoesandthereservedstock.Addthe
chickenandanyjuicesitreleased.Addtheclams.
Coverthepan,reducetheheat,andcookuntilall
theclamshaveopened,about5minutes. Donotstir
thericeduringthecookingprocess.
2 lb /9 0 7 g basmati rice
V / 2 gal /5 .7 6 L water
It b s p /lO g s a lt
2 o z/5 7 g butter
2 fl o z/6 0 mL milk
V / 2 ts p /1 .20 g saffron threads, crumbled
1. Rinsethericeinastrainerundercoldw
ateruntil
thewaterrunsclear. Drainthericewell.
2 . Bringthewatertoaboilandaddthesalt.
3.Lightlybutteram
ediumrondeau.Prepareparch
mentpaperandaluminumfoiltouseasacoverfor
therondeau.
4.M
elttheremainingbutterinasmallsaucepotand
addthemilkandsaffron.Setasidetosteep.
5.A
ddthericetotherapidlyboilingwater,cover,and
cookfor7minutes. Drainthericeinacolanderand
transfertothebutteredrondeau.
6. Ladletheinfusedmilkoverthericeandtosslightly
withaforktocombine.Donotstir.
7.Tightlycovertherondeauw
ithparchmentpaperand
thenaluminumfoil.
8. Bakeina400F/204Covenfor15minutes.
9 .Allowthericetorestfor5m
inutesuncovered,fluff
itwithafork,andserveimmediatelyorholdhotfor
service.
IBS
Makes 10 servings
3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil, plus as needed for grilling
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g onions, minced
1 lb /4 5 4 g green peppers, seeded, cut into small dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g celery, cut into small dice
V 2 o z/1 4 g paprika
'/ 2
tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Pinch ground white pepper

Pinch cayenne
BBQ. Spice Rub (recipe follows)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g plum tomatoes,
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)
1 tb sp /6 g dried oregano
Salt, as needed
2 bay leaves
V* cup/120 mL basil chiffonade
V / 2 ts p /7.50 mL Worcestershire sauce
12 o z/3 4 0 g zucchini, cut on the bias
V i in/1 cm thick (10 slices)
12 o z/3 4 0 g yellow squash, cut on the
bias Vz in/1 cm thick (10 slices)
2
V i red peppers, quartered (10 quarters)
Z. Coverandcookuntilthevegetablesbegintosoften,
about10minutes.Addthetomatoeswiththeirjuic
es,thestock,oregano,salt,andbayleavesandstir
untilcombined.Addthebasil,thyme,Worcester
shire,andhotsauceandbringtoasimmer. Reserve
thejambalayasimmeringliquidwarm.
3. Preparethezucchini,yellowsquash,redpeppers,
redonions,andeggplantforgrillingbylightlybrush
ingthemwitholiveoilandseasoningbothsides
liberallywithBBQspicerub.Reserve.
4 . Com
binethericeinasaucepanwith36floz/i.o8L
ofthejambalayasimmeringliquid.Covertightly
andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Finish
cookingthericeina350F/i77Covenuntiltherice
ischewy-tender, 10to12minutes. Reservetherice
warm.
5. Tofinishthedish,grillthezucchini,yellowsquash,
redpeppers,redonions,andeggplantuntiltender.
Holdinawarmoven.
6. Mixthecookedriceintothejambalayabaseover
mediumheat.Adjustseasoningwithsalt,pepper,
andBBQspicemixandholdinawarmoven.
7. Plateeachportionofthejam
balayainalarge,
flatbowl.Topwith1slicezucchini, 1sliceyellow
squash,onequarterofaredpepper, 1sliceredon
ion,and1sliceeggplant.
8. Garnisheachportionwith2tbsp/30mLgreen
onions.
Grilled Vegetable
Jambalaya
BBQSpice Rub
Makes 3A cup
V 2 cup/80 g salt
2 red onions, sliced into V H n /l-c m rounds (10 slices)
V* cup/28 g paprika or pimenton
1 eggplant, peeled, sliced into

V H n /l-c m rounds (10 slices)
V / 2 ts p /3 g onion powder
V / 2 ts p /3 g garlic powder
3 cups short-grain rice (sushi-style)

1 ts p /2 g cayenne
GARNISH
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
1. Heattheoliveoilinarondeauoverhighheat. Gen
tlysautetheonions,peppers,celery,garlic,paprika,
blackandwhitepeppers,cayenne,andltbsp/15mL
oftheBBQspicerubuntillightlybrowned,about3
minutes.

V 2 ts p /1 g ground white pepper
Combinealltheingredientsandmixwell. Reserve
inanairtightcontainer.
791
Rice Croquettes
Basic Polenta
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Basic Boiled Rice (page

785) or Risotto (page 783)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy Bechamel Sauce (page 295)
3 egg yolks
Salt, as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL coarse yellow cornmeal
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Salt, as needed
7 o z/1 9 8 g bread crumbs, or as needed
3 o z/8 5 g cornmeal, or as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
1. Blendthepreparedricew
iththebechamel,cheese,
andeggyolks. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. Spread

themixtureinanevenlayeronabuttered,parch
ment-linedsheetpan.Placeasheetofplasticwrap
overthemixtureandrefrigerateforseveralhoursor
overnighttochillandfirmtherice.
2 . Com
binethebreadcrumbsandcornmeal. Cutthe
riceinthedesiredshape,dredgeitintheflour,and
shakeofftheexcess. Dipthecroquettesintotheegg
wash,thenintothebreadcrumbmixture.
3. H
eattheoilto350F/i77Cinaheavydeeppotand
deepfrythecroquettesuntilgoldenbrown,5to6
minutes. Drainbrieflyonpapertowelsandserve
immediately.
1. Bringthew
atertoaboilovermediumheatina
heavy-bottomedmediumstockpotandseasonwith
salt.
2 . Pourthecornm
ealintothewaterinastream,stir
ringconstantlyuntilithasallbeenadded.Reduce
theheattolow.Simmer,stirringoften,untilthepo
lentapullsawayfromthesidesofthepot,about45
minutes. Itshouldnottastestarchyorgritty.
3. Rem
ovethepotfromtheheatandblendinthebut
ter. Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
4 . Serveim
mediatelyassoftpolentaorholdwarmun
tilservice.
NOTE: For firm polenta, decrease the amount o f water to 1
gal/3.84 L. A fte r blending the bu tte r into the polenta,
spread the m ixture onto a greased or plastic wrap-lined
half sheet pan and refrigerate until cool enough to cut
into desired shapes. Finish by sauteing, pan frying,
grilling, or baking.
Polenta with Parmesan: S ubstitute Chicken Stock (page

263) fo r the water. Sweat Vi oz/1 4 g minced shallot
and 1 tb s p /9 g minced garlic in 1 o z /2 8 g bu tte r until
aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and cook the
polenta according to the above method. Remove the pot
from the heat and s tir in 3 egg yolks and 2 oz/57 g grated
Parmesan.
792
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Grits w ith Corn and
e
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2-in /5-cm piece ginger, crushed

1 lb /4 5 4 g coarse white grits
1 lb /4 5 4 g skinless, boneless chicken thighs
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g long-grain white rice
1 tb s p /1 5 mL fish sauce
9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g minced onion
Salt, as needed
'/ 2
IO V 2 o z/2 9 8 g seeded, minced poblano chile

5 o z/1 4 2 g seeded, minced red pepper
CONDIMENTS
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g corn kernels, fresh or thawed frozen
1 lb 7 o z/6 5 2 g cooked and drained hominy
2 tb s p /3 0 mL chili sauce
2 tb sp /2 g dried shrimp
1 shallot, sliced
GARNISH
1 o z/2 8 g toasted peanuts, crushed
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced tomatoes

2 V i o z/7 1 g Monterey Jack, shredded
1. Com
binethegritsandstockinaheavypotandbring
toaboilovermediumheat. Lowertheheat,cover,
andsimmeruntilthegritsaretender,45to50
minutes.
2 .M
eanwhile,heattheoilinalargesautepanover
mediumheat.Addtheonionsandsauteuntiltrans
lucent,4to5minutes.
3.A
ddthegarlic,poblanos,andredpeppers. Coverand
cookoverlowheatuntilthepeppersaresoftened,
about10minutes. Seasonwithsalt.
4 . Stirinthegritsandsauteuntilcom
bined,about1
minute. Fluffwithaforkandstirinthecornand
hominy.Gentlyheatthrough.
5. Cover,rem
ovefromtheheat,andletstandfor5
minutes. Seasonwithpepper.Garnisheachserving
with2tbsp/23gtomatoesandV oz/7gcheese,and
servewarm.
1. Putthew
aterandgingerinalargepotandbringto
aboil.Addthechickenandsimmeruntilcooked
through,about20minutes. Removethechicken
fromtheliquid,cooltoroomtemperature,andshred
intobite-sizepieces. Reservethechickenunder
refrigeration.
2 . Rem
ovethegingerfromtheliquidanddiscard.
Returntheliquidtomediumheat.Addthericein
athinstream,stirringitwithaforktopreventthe
grainsfromclumpingastheyareadded.Whenthe
waterreturnstoaboil,reducetheheattoasimmer
andcover.
3. Sim
merthericeuntiltender,about25minutes.Add
thefishsauceandsalt.Adjusttheconsistencywith
water,ifnecessary;thecongeeshouldbesoupy.
4 .A
ddthechickenmeattothecongee. Sprinklethe
condimentsoverthericeandserveimmediately.
795
M illet and Cauliflower

Puree
Makes10servings
B tb sp /4 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
14 o z/3 9 7 g cauliflower
i r / 4 o z / 3 1 9 g millet
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
]Ats p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper

I V 2 fl o z/4 5 mL heavy cream
1 o z/2 8 g Roasted Garlic (page 634)
1. H
eattheoilinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
thecauliflowerandsauteuntilgoldenbrown,4to5
minutes.Addthemilletandstirconstantlyuntilit
turnsgolden,about3minutesmore.
2 . Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.A
ddthestockand
bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Lowertheheatto
medium-lowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,until
themilletistenderandbursts,about30minutes.
3. Rem
ovefromtheheat.Addthecreamandgarlic.
4 .W
orkinginbatchesifnecessary,pureethemillet
mixtureinafoodprocessororblender. Ifthemix
tureistoothick,addmorestockasneeded.
5. Ifthepureehascooled,returnittothepanandstir
overlowheattoheatthrough.Servewarm.
1 sprig thyme
8 black peppercorns
1 sprig parsley
V2ts p /1 g ground black pepper

1 . Rinsetheryeberries,w
heatberries,wildrice,and
pearlbarleytogetherinastrainer.Drainwell.
2.. H
eattheoilinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
theonionsandcookuntiltranslucent,4to5min
utes.Addthegarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about1
minutemore.
3.A
ddthegrains,stock,bayleaf,thyme,peppercorns,
parsley,salt,andpepper.Bringtoaboilovermedi
umheat,cover,andsimmeroverlowheatuntilsoft,
about1V2hours. Iftheliquidisnotentirelygone,
increasetheheatandcook,uncovered,for5to10
minuteslonger,stirringfrequently.
4 .Allowthefinishedpilaftorestfor5m
inutes.Fluff
withaforkandserveimmediatelyorholdforservice.
Green Onion-Bulgur
Pilaf
Makes10servings
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g coarse-grain bulgur
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced green onions
Mixed Grain Pilaf
Makes10servings
3 3/ t q t/3 .6 0 L water
I V 2 ts p /3 g sweet paprika
9V2 o z/2 69 g rye berries
6V2o z/1 8 4 g wheat berries
V/2ts p /3 g hot paprika

Salt, as needed
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g wild rice

5 V i o z/1 5 6 g pearl barley

5 o z/1 4 2 g red onion, minced
2 tb sp /1 8 g minced garlic
2 'A q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 bay leaf
1. W
ash,rinse,anddrainthebulgurinafine-mesh
sieve.
2 .H
eathalfoftheoilinamediumsaucepanover
medium-highheat.Addthegreenonionsandsaute
for30secondsto1minute.
. Stirinthetomatopasteandcookovermediumheat,
30secondsto1minute.
.Addthebulgurandsauteovermedium-highheat,
stirringfrequently,untilcoatedwithtomatopaste
andheatedthrough,2to3minutes.
.Addthewaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.
Addthepaprikasandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
Green O nion-Bulgur Pilaf
. Simmerthebulgurmixture,covered,untilallthe
waterisabsorbed,about20minutes.
.Allowthebulgurtorestfor10minutes.Gentlydress
itwiththeremainingoil.
. Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
W heat Berry Salad w ith Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans
Makes
10
servings
2 egg whites, lightly beaten
Wheat Berry Salad

with Oranges,
Cherries, and Pecans
Makes
10
servings
14 o z /3 9 7 g kasha
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page
2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
Salt, as needed
l
'/ 2
o z/4 3 g butter
3 o z/8 5 g toasted pecans, chopped

2 f I o z/6 0 mL maple syrup
17'/2 o z/4 9 6 g oranges, supremed

(see page 891), juices reserved
1 ts p /3 g chopped thyme
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped rosemary
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped sage
2 tb s p /3 0 mL champagne vinegar
Cayenne, as needed
1. Com
binetheeggwhitesandkashainamedium
saucepanandcookoverlowheat,stirringconstantly,
for2minutes,untildryandlightlybrown.
2 .A
ddthestock,salt,andbuttertothekashaandbring
toaboiloverhighheat. Reducetheheattolowand
simmer,covered,forabout15minutes,oruntilthe
kashaistendertothebite.
3. Rem
ovefromtheheatandletsteamforabout5min
utes.Uncoverandfluffthekashabyliftingitgently
withtwoforkstobreakupanylumps.
4 .W
hilethekashasteams,combinethepecans,maple
syrup,andcayenneinasmallsautepan.Heatover
lowheatuntilthepecansarewellcoatedandthe
maplesyruphasreducedtoaverythickconsistency.
5. Scatterthespicedpecansoverthekashaandserve
immediatelyorholdhotforservice.
Kasha with Spicy

Maple Pecans
12 o z/3 4 0 g wheat berries, cooked

2 o z/5 7 g dried cherries, plus as needed
2'/2 o z/7 1 g pecans, toasted
1. W
hisktogethertheorangejuice,thyme,rosemary,
sage,oil,andvinegarinalargebowl.Seasonwith
thesaltandpepper.
2 .A
ddthewheatberries,cherries,pecans,andorange
supremes.Tosstocombine.
3. Garnishwithadditionalcherriesandpecans, if
desired.
799
Barley Salad with

Cucumber and Mint
Sweet and Spicy

Bulgur Salad
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
9V2 o z / 2 6 9 g pearl barley
8 o z/2 2 7 g tomatoes, peeled, seeded,

and cut into small dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g cherry tomatoes
7 '/t o z/2 0 6 g cucumber, peeled,

7 o z/1 9 8 g eggplant, roasted, peeled,
and cut into small dice
12 o z/3 4 0 g bulgur
V* oz/21 g chopped mint
VA o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onion
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g arugula

4Vz f I o z/1 3 5 mL lemon juice

1 tb sp /9 g grated lemon zest
Vao z/21 g honey
lt s p /3 g s a lt
V2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Va ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
1. Putthebarleyinabow
landcoverwithcoldwater.
Soakfor30minutes.
2 .D
rainthebarleywell.Transferittoamediumpot,
coverwithsaltedwater,andbringtoaboiloverhigh
heat. Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilten
der,40to50minutes.
3. Drainthebarleyandrinsewithcoldw
ater. Drain
wellandcoolcompletely.
4 . Tosstogetherthebarley,tom
atoes,cucumbers,egg
plant,parsley,mint,andgreenonionsinalargebowl
tocombine.
5.W
hisktogethertheoliveoil,lemonjuice, lemon
zest,salt,andpepperinasmallbowl.
6. Pourthedressingoverthebarleymixtureandtoss
tocoat. Serveimmediatelyorchilluntilneededfor
service.
800
V/2 o z/4 3 g drained oil-packed

sun-dried tomatoes, minced
1. H
eattheoliveoilinalargesautepan.Addthecher
rytomatoesandcookovermedium-highheatuntil
softened,2to3minutes.
2 .A
ddthesun-driedtomatoesandcontinuecooking
for2to3minuteslonger,untiltender. Seasonwith
salt.
3. Reducetheheattom
edium-low.Addthegarlicand
bulgurandsauteuntilfragrant, 1to2minutes.
4 .A
ddthewaterandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.
Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthebulgur
istender,10to15minutes.
5. Fluffwithafork.Gentlyfoldinthearugula.Season
withtheredpepperflakes,limejuice, honey,and
blackpepper.Tosstocombine. Servewarm.
mm
Makes10servings
Amaranth Pancakes
Makes10servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole amaranth
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour
12 o z/3 4 0 g cracked wheat

1 ts p /3 g baking powder
2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
and cut into medium dice
1 ts p /3 g salt
8 o z/2 2 7 g red onion, cut into medium dice
4 V 2 o z/1 2 8 g sugar
3 o z/8 5 g fresh mozzarella, cut into medium dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g eggs
3 tb sp /4 5 mL red wine vinegar
1 q t/9 6 0 mL buttermilk
2 f I o z/6 0 mL melted butter
Vegetable oil or clarified butter, as needed
V i o z/1 4 g chopped basil

lt s p /3 g s a lt
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
VAo z/4 3 g finely grated Parmesan (optional)

1. Placethecrackedw
heatinamediumpot,cover
withsaltedwater,andsimmeruntiltender,30to35
minutes. Removefromtheheatanddrain,pressing
toreleaseanyexcessmoisture. Letcooltoroomtem
perature.
2.. Tossthetom
atoes,onion,andmozzarellainalarge
bowltocombine.
3.W
hisktogetherthevinegar,oliveoil,oregano,basil,
andpepperflakesinasmallbowl.Seasonwiththe
saltandpepper.Addtothetomatomixtureandtoss
tocoat.Addthewheatandtosswell.
4 . Serveatroomtem
peratureorchilluntilneededfor
service. Ifdesired,garnishwiththeParmesan.
1. Heatalargedrysautepanoverm
edium-highheat
andaddtheamaranth,shakingthepantomakea
singlelayer.Cook,stirringoccasionallytoprevent
browning,untilthegrainsbegintopop.Continueto
cookuntilthepoppingslowsdown.Removefrom
theheatandsetasidetocool.
2..Com
binethecooledamaranth,flour,bakingpowder,
salt,andsugarinalargebowl.Makeawellinthe
center.
3. Com
binetheeggsandbuttermilkandmixwell.Pour
allatonceintothecenterofthedryingredients.
Slowlymixwithawhiskinacontrolledcircular
motion.
4 .A
ddthebutterwhenaboutthree-quartersofthedry
ingredientsaremoistened.Continuetomixonly
untilthebutterisworkedin.Donotovermix.
5. Keepthebattercool, ifm
akinglargebatches,by
holdingitinanicewaterbath,orbydividingand
keepingtheextrabatterintherefrigerator.
6. Heatalargesautepanorgriddlepanovermedium
heatandlightlygreaseitwithvegetableoil.
7. Ladleapproxim
ately2V2 floz/75mLofthebatter
intothepanforeachpancake.Whenbubblesontop
breakandthebottomisgoldenbrown,1to2min
utes,turnover.Finishcookingonthesecondside.
Repeatwithremainingbatterandservewarm.
Cracked Wheat and

Tomato Salad
Cracked W heat and Tomato Salad
Chapter 24 C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
803
Saigon Crepes
Makes10servings
1 o z/2 8 g yellow split mung beans
Fontina Risotto
Fritters
Makes10servings

i r / 4 oz/B19 g rice flour
1/2 o z /1 4 g sugar
1 tsp /B g s a lt
l'Ao z/3 5 g minced green onion

1 o z/2 8 g chopped cilantro stems and roots
Oil, as needed
8
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg chilled Risotto (page 783)

2 eggs
Salt, as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g fontina, cut into 1 /4 in/6-m m cubes
'Ao z/2 3 4 g bean sprouts
V2 o z/1 4 g cilantro leaves
Cilantro-Lime Soy Sauce (page

956) or Sriracha, as needed.
I V 2 o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan
1 .Toastthem
ungbeanslightlyinadrypanovermod
erateheattodevelopanuttyaroma.
2.. Soakthebeansinw
atertocoveruntiltheysoften,8
hoursorovernight.
3. Drainthebeansandcom
binewiththecoconutmilk,
water,riceflour,sugar,salt,andturmericinablend
er.Pureeuntilsmooth.Strainintoabowl.
4 . Stirinthegreenonionsandcilantrostem
sand
roots.
5. H
eata6-in/i5-cmcrepepanovermedium-highheat
withasmallamountofoil. Pour4floz/120mLbat
terintothehotpan.Pressafewsproutsandcilantro
leavesintotherawsideofthepancake. Drizzlea
smallamountofoilontothesproutsandherbs.
6. Cookovermedium-highheatforabout4minutes,
nicelybrowningthebottom.Flipandcooktheother
sideuntillightlybrown,3to4minutes. Repeatwith
theremainingbatter.
7.Turnouteachcrepeontoacuttingboardandfoldto
formacrescent.Cutintothirdsandservethethree
piecesoverlappedwithavegetariandippingsauce.
804
FRITTERS

4 eggs, beaten
Vegetable oil, as needed for frying
1 .Tom
akethefritters,mixtherisotto,Parmesan,eggs,
andredpepperflakesinamediumbowl.Season
withsaltandpepper,ifnecessary(seeNote).
2.. W
rapabout1V2oz/43gchilledrisottoaroundapiece
offontinaandrolltomakeasmallball.Repeatwith
theremainingrisottoandcheese.Placetheballs
ontoabakingsheet,cover,andrefrigerateuntil
needed.
3. Com
binethebreadcrumbsandParmesan.Coat
thechilledrisottoballswiththeflour,eggs,andthe
breadcrumbmixtureusingthestandardbreading
procedute(seepage365). Repeatwiththeremaining
fritters.
4.H
eattheoilinadeepfryerto350F/i77C.Frythe
frittersuntiltheyaregoldenbrownandrisetothe
surface,5to7minutes. Servewarm.
NOTE: Salt and pepper may not be needed if the riso tto is
seasoned.
Makes10servings
5 3/ o z/1 6 3 g minced onion
r /2 o z/4 3 g small-dice celery
1 lb /4 5 4 g Arborio rice
36 fl o z/1 .0 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 265)
6 ears corn, kernels removed from the cobs
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced green onion
4 o z /1 13 g Asiago cheese, grated
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper

2/ t o z/6 4 g bread crumbs
SAUCE
2 o z/5 7 g onion, cut into small dice
10 o z/2 8 4 g fennel, cut into small dice
1 sprig thyme
3 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock
1 ts p /3 g salt
1 .Heattheoliveoilinam
ediumpotovermedium-
highheat.Addtheonion,celery,andgarlicand
sweatuntiltender,4to5minutes.Addthericeand
cookfor2to3minutesmore.
2 .A
ddthewine,reducetheheattolow,andbringto
asimmer.Cook,stirringfrequently,untiltherice
absorbsthewine.
3.Usingaladle,addthestockprogressively,andstir
untilthestockisabsorbedbeforeaddingmore.
Continueuntilthericeisnearlytender, 15to20
minutes.
4 .Stirinthecorn,greenonions,chives,andparsley
andcooktoheatthrough,about2minutesmore.
5.Foldinthecheese. Stirinthecream
. Seasonwith
thesaltandpepper.
6. Lightlygreaseahalfsheetpanandspreadtheri
sottointothepaninanevenlayer.Cooltherisotto
for10minutesatroomtemperature,thencover
andtransfertotherefrigeratorandcoolforatleast
1hour.
7.Usea4to5-in/ioto13-cmroundcuttertocutthe
risottointocakes.Coatthecakeswiththeflour,
eggs,andbreadcrumbsusingthestandardbread
ingprocess(seepage365). Placethebreadedcakes
onaparchment-linedsheetpanandcoveruntil
readytofry.
8. Tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinamedium
potovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandsweat
untiltender,4to5minutes.Addthegarlicand
sauteuntilfragrant,about1minutemore.
9 .A
ddthefennel,thyme,parsley,andbayleaf.Cover
themixturewiththestockandbringtoasimmer.
Simmeruntilthevegetablesareverysoft,about10
minutes.
10.Removethethymeandparsleystemsandthebay
leaf.Pureethemixtureinablenderorfoodproces
soruntilsmooth,addingmorestockasneeded.
Seasonthesaucewithlemonjuice,salt,andpep
per. Reserve.
11 .Heatasm
allsautepanwithabout%in/2cmveg
etableoilovermediumheatuntiltheoilreaches
350F/i77C.Panfrytherisottocakesuntilgolden
brownoneachside,about3minutesperside.
12 .Servethecakeswiththesauce.
Corn and Asiago

Cheese Risotto Cakes
NOTE: The ris o tto cakes can also be de ep fried .
805
Wild Rice Cakes

Makes 10 servings
RICE CAKES
1 o z/2 8 g butter
11 o z/3 1 2 g minced red pepper
r /2 o z/4 3 g thinly sliced green onions
/2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic

'/2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger
2 eggs
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 9 0 3 or purchased)
'/2 o z/1 4 g chopped chives

8 o z/2 2 7 g canned hominy, drained and rinsed
1. H
eatthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium
heat.Addtheceleryandpepperandsauteuntilten
der,4to5minutes. Removefromtheheatandlet
cooltoroomtemperature.
2 . Inalargebow
l,mixthegreenonions,garlic,ginger,
hotsauce,eggs,mayonnaise,sourcream,chives,and
hominytocombine. Pureeone-thirdofthemixture
tocreateabinder.
3. Returnthepureedm
ixturebacktothebowlandstir
inthewildrice,flour,andthecooledcelerymixture.
Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
4 . Formthericem
ixtureinto2-oz/57-gcakesthatare
approximatelyx/i in/1.25cmthick.Coatthecakes
withtheflour,eggs,andpankousingthestandard
breadingprocedure(seepage365).
5. HeataboutlAin/6m
moilovermediumheat. Fry
thecakesuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,3to5min
utesperside. Serveimmediately.
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g cooked wild rice

1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 all-purpose flour

4 eggs, beaten
4 o z /1 1 3 g p a n k o
806
The immense popularity of pastas and dumplings is not at all surprising.

Nutritious and highly versatile, these foods are an important element of most
cuisines. They are based on ingredients that are inexpensive and easy to store
flour or meal, and eggs. They adapt well to a number of uses and can be found
on contemporary menus as appetizers, entrees, salads, and even desserts.
T h e f o r m u l a f o r f r e s h p a s t a m a y be t h o u g h t o f a s t h e b a s e r e c ip e t o p r o d u c e a s t if f d o u g h
T H A T C A N BE E N D L E S S L Y V A R I E D TO P R O D U C E M Y R I A D S H A P E S , F L A V O R S , A N D C O L O R S . T h e G E N E R A L
C A T E G O R Y O F P A S T A I N C L U D E S B O T H D R I E D A N D F R E S H N O O D L E S . P A S T A M A Y BE P R E P A R E D F R E S H O N
T H E P R E M I S E S O R P U R C H A S E D E I T H E R F R E S H OR D R I E D . T H E R E A R E A D V A N T A G E S TO B O T H F R E S H A N D
D R I E D P A S T A S . F r E S H P A S T A G I V E S T H E C H E F F R E E D O M TO C R E A T E D I S H E S W I T H S P E C I A L F L A V O R S ,
C O L O R S , S H A P E S , O R F I L L I N G S , B U T I T H A S A L I M I T E D S H E L F L I F E . D R I E D P A S T A C A N BE S T O R E D A L M O S T
IN D E FIN ITE LY .
making fresh
pasta, noodles,
and dumplings
Changing th e ra tio o f flo u r to liquid or in tro d u cin g o th e r in g re d ie n ts in to a basic pasta f o r
mula produces doughs and b a tte rs th a t are handled and cooked d iffe re n tly fro m the base
recipe. For exam ple, th e am ount o f liquid can be increased to cre a te a s o ft b a tte r fo r spa tzle. This b a tte r is cut o f f a spa tzle board o r dropped throu gh a colander or spa tzle m aker
in to sim m e ring liquid, ra th e r than ro lle d or e xtrud ed as f o r a th ic k e r pasta dough.
A dding a leavener to the basic pasta fo rm u la produces a s o ft b a tte r th a t can be used
f o r la rge r dum plings w ith a b re a d -like te x tu re th a t are sim m ered in a stew or o th e r liq
uid. A ltho ug h th e te rm "dum pling" may mean som e th in g very sp e c ific to an in dividu al or
p a rtic u la r ethnic group, it a ctu a lly is a very broad cate gory. Some dum plings are based on
doughs and b a tte rs , and o th e rs on in gre die nts ranging fro m bread to pureed p o ta to e s. The
popular Chinese dim sum, including steam ed yea st doughs and frie d egg rolls, is ye t an
o th e r category. D um plings may be cooked in d iffe re n t ways, according to type . They may
be sim m ered in liquid, steam ed, poached, baked, pa n -frie d , o r d e e p -frie d . A v a rie ty o f in
g re d ie n ts can be used. See the recipes included in th is ch a p te r f o r sp e c ific in stru ctio n s.
Because flo u r provides th e s tru c tu re in pasta, it is im p o rta n t to choose one th a t has
the necessary q u a litie s f o r m aking the be st possible dough. A ll-p u rp o se flo u rs can be used
succe ssfully fo r m ost fre s h pasta. W hole w heat flou r, sem olina, cornm eal, b uckw heat flou r,
rye flo u r, ground legum es (chickpeas, f o r instance), and o th e r special flo u rs and meals can
be used to replace a p o rtio n o f th e all-pu rpo se flo u r, g ivin g th e pasta unique flavo r, te x tu re ,
and color. E xp e rim e n ta tio n is o fte n the be st way to de te rm in e how to use special flo u rs.
R efer to th e recipes in th is ch a p te r fo r guidance on types, ratio s, and su b s titu tio n s .
808
p e cia lly im p o rta n t to have th e p ro p e r am ount o f m o istu re , m any recipes call fo r water.
Doughs th a t are to o dry or to o m o is t are d iff ic u lt to ro ll out.
N e u tra l o r fla v o re d oil is o fte n used in pasta doughs to keep th e dough pliab le and easy
to w o rk w ith .
A dding s a lt to the dough helps to develop flavo r. A d d itio n a l in gre die nts, such as herbs,
veg etab le purees, or c itru s zest, may be added to fre s h pasta dough to change its color,
fla vo r, o r te x tu re . If the se added fla v o rin g o r co lo rin g in g re d ie n ts con tain a lo t o f m oisture,
it is necessary to ad ju st the basic fo rm u la , by e ith e r using a d d itio n a l flo u r o r less water.
V egetable purees used fo r fla v o r o r co lo r are o fte n dried s lig h tly by cooking in an open
vessel in o rd e r to co n ce n tra te th e ir fla vo rs.
Fresh pasta and noodles can be covered and re frig e ra te d f o r up to tw o days. If the
pasta is cut in long strands, sprinkle it w ith cornm eal, sem olina, o r rice flo u r to keep the
strand s fro m s tic k in g to g e th e r. Hold th e pasta on tra y s lined w ith p la s tic wrap, and cover
it w ith p la s tic w rap as well. Filled pastas should be held on pa rch m e n t-lin e d sheet trays,
arranged so th a t th e y are n o t to u ch in g each other.
If th e pasta is to be sto re d f o r m ore than tw o days, ro ll long strand s o f n o n fille d pastas
in to loose nests and arrange the m on pa rch m e n t-lin e d she et trays. S et th e tra y s in a warm,
d ry place f o r several days, u n til th e pasta has hardened and dried. Once dried, pasta may
be held, w ell w rapped, in a cool, d ry place th e same w ay as com m e rcial dried pastas. Fresh
pasta, esp ecially fille d pastas such as to r te llin i and ravioli, may also be fro ze n success
fu lly .
E quipm ent needs f o r fre s h pasta are ve ry basic, though a fe w special pieces o f eq uip
m ent can make th e jo b even sim pler. A t th e very least, you w ill need your hands, a ro llin g
pin, and a knife . Or use an e le c tric m ixe r w ith a dough hook o r a fo o d processor to m ix the
dough, and a p a s ta -ro llin g machine to ro ll it out. C u ttin g a tta c h m e n ts th a t re s u lt in un iform
cu ts o f pasta are available f o r ro llin g machines.
ch a p te r 25 C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
making fresh pasta, noodles, and dumplings
Eggs are fre q u e n tly included in fre s h pasta to pro vid e m oistu re, flavo r, and stru ctu re .
D iffe re n t fo rm u la s may sp e cify th e use o f w hole eggs, yolks, o r w h ites. Because it is es
809
basic formula
Fresh Pasta
4 whole eggs
Oil
1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL water
Other flavoring or garnishing
(10 portions)
1 lb/454 g "00" pasta flour
or all-purpose flour
ingredients as desired
Salt
method
at-a-glance
1. Mound all the dry
ingredients on a work
surface and make a well in
the center.
2. Combine all the wet
ingredients and pour them

into the well.
3. Working rapidly, pull the
dry ingredients into the

wet ingredients, mixing
them together to form a
rough dough.
expert tips Q
Making fresh pasta
is exciting not only because of its fresh flavor
and tender texture but also because it provides another opportunity to intro
duce flavor to a dish.
Use d iffe re n t flours
in combination with all-purpose flour to cre
ate flavor:
B UCKW HEAT / C O R N M E A L / RICE / R YE / S E M O L IN A / W H O LE W HEAT
Add flaVOr to pasta dough
during mixing with the addition of
herbs, spices, flavored or infused liquids, and vegetable purees:
4. Knead the dough until it
is smooth, and let it rest

before rolling it out.
FLAVO RED OR IN FU S E D L IQ U ID S / S Q U ID INK
HERBS AND SPICES:

B A SIL / P A R S LE Y / SAGE / S A FFR O N / D RIED HERBS SUCH AS R O S E M A R Y
VEGETABLE PUREES:
C ARROT / SP IN A C H / TO M ATO
For a dramatic effect,
whole herbs and even edible flowers can
be rolled between two pieces of pasta:

B A SIL LEAVES / C H E R V IL LEAVES / PA R S L E Y LEAVES
Use whole grains whenever possible, as
they have increased health benefits: less refined whole wheat or other flours
can be used to make fresh pasta.
810
making fresh pasta
1. mix pasta dough by hand o r by

machine. For sm all batches, it may be ju s t as e ffic ie n t to
m ix th e dough m anually. Large batches, on th e o th e r hand,
can be made much m ore ea sily w ith a fo o d p ro ce sso r or
e le c tric mixer.
To m ix the dough by hand, com bine the flo u r and s a lt in
a bowl o r on a w o rk surface and make a w ell in the center.
Place the eggs, fla v o rin g ingredients, and oil ( if using) in the
well. W orking as rap id ly as possible, gradually incorporate
the flo u r in to the liquid ingredients un til a loose mass form s.
To m ix in a fo o d processor, place all th e in g re d ie n ts
in th e bow l o f a fo o d p ro ce sso r f it t e d w ith a ste e l blade.
Process u n til blended. The dough should look like a coarse
m eal th a t w ill cohere when pressed in to a ball. Do not
overprocess.
To m ix in an e le c tric m ixer, place all th e in g re d ie n ts in
th e bow l o f a m ixe r f it te d w ith a dough hook. M ix a t m e
dium speed u n til th e dough fo rm s a sm oo th ball th a t pulls
cleanly away fro m th e bowl's sides.
As the dough is mixed, adjust the consistency w ith ad
d itio n a l flo u r or water, to com pensate fo r the variatio ns
in ingredients, hu m id ity in the kitchen, or the ad dition o f
op tio n a l fla v o rin g ingredients. On very dry days, it may be
m eth o d in detail
necessary to add a fe w drops o f w a te r to reach the desired

consistency.
2. knead the dough u n til p ro p e rly de vel

oped. L e t th e dough re s t b e fo re ro llin g and c u ttin g . Once
m ixed, w h e th e r by hand, processor, o r m ixer, th e dough
should be tu rn e d o u t o n to a flo u re d w o rk surface and
kneaded u n til th e te x tu re becom es sm o o th and elastic.
8ll
3. gather and smooth the dough

in to a ball, cover, and le t it relax a t room te m p e ra tu re fo r
a t le a st 1 hour. If it is n o t s u ffic ie n tly relaxed, it w ill be
d iff ic u lt to ro ll in to th in sheets. This re s tin g phase is p a r
tic u la rly im p o rta n t i f th e dough is to be ro lle d by hand.
E valuate th e q u a lity o f th e fin is h e d fre s h pasta dough.
In general, pasta dough should be sm ooth, fa irly elastic,
a n d ju s t s lig h tly m o is t to th e touch. If th e dough is e ith e r
ta c k y (fro m excess m o istu re ) o r c ru m b ly (to o dry), it w ill
be d iff ic u lt to ro ll o u t p ro p e rly. Experience is th e be st
guide f o r d e te rm in in g when th e p ro p e r con sisten cy has
been reached.
4. guide the pasta
th ro u g h th e machine
a t th e w id e s t s e ttin g . Reduce the s e ttin g as you ro ll the

pasta to cre a te th in sheets.
Cut o f f a piece o f dough (the am ount w ill vary, de
pending on th e w id th o f th e m achine) and fla tte n it; cover
th e rest. S et th e ro lle rs to th e w id e s t opening and begin
to guide th e dough th ro u g h th e machine to fo rm a long,
w ide s trip , lig h tly flo u rin g it as necessary to prevent
stickin g . R oll th e pasta dough in to th in sheets and cut in to
th e de sire d shapes. Hold th e dough under p la s tic w rap i f it
is n o t to be cooked im m e dia te ly.
Pasta and egg noodle doughs can be ro lle d and cut
by hand o r using a pasta machine. To ro ll by hand, fla tte n
a piece o f dough ab o u t th e size o f an orange on a flo u rdu sted w o rk surface. Using a ro llin g pin, w o rk fro m the
ce n te r o f th e dough to th e edges w ith a b a c k -a n d -fo rth
m o tio n to ro ll and s tre tc h th e dough, tu rn in g it occasion
ally and d u stin g it w ith flo u r, u n til it reaches th e desired
thickn ess. Once ro lle d in to sheets, the pasta can be cut
w ith a k n ife in to th in s trip s f o r f la t o r rib b o n -s ty le pastas
such as fe ttu c c in e or linguine, o r stam ped w ith c u tte rs in to
squares o r circles to make fille d pastas such as ravioli.
812
making fresh pasta
5. join the two ends
o f th e she et to ro ll
it in one con tinu ou s loop. In th is m etho d o f ro llin g pasta,

fo ld th e s trip in to th ird s , like a le tte r, and run it th ro u g h
the ro lle rs again. R epeat th is ste p one o r tw o tim e s, f o ld
ing th e dough in to th ird s each tim e . If necessary, d u s t the
dough w ith f lo u r to keep it fro m s tic k in g to th e ro lle rs and
tea ring .
Continue to ro ll th e pasta th ro u g h th e machine, s e t
tin g th e ro lle rs a t a na rro w e r s e ttin g each tim e , u n til the
she et o f pasta is th e de sire d thickn ess. The dough should
fe e l sm oo th and n o t a t a ll ta cky. To p re ve n t drying, keep it
covered when n o t w o rk in g w ith it.
NOTE: D iffe r e n t m achines have d iffe re n t m etho ds o f
o p e ra tio n . These d ire c tio n s are f o r m aking p a s ta s he ets
w ith th e com m on tw o -ro lle r h a n d -o p e ra te d m achine.
(Tube p a sta s, such as m a ca ro n i o r z iti, are m ade by fo rc
ing the dough th ro u g h a sp e cia l die in an e x tru s io n p a s ta
m aker.)
6. cut the sheets of pasta
using a m a
chine a tta ch m e n t, a kn ife , o r c u tte rs . The pasta may be

cooked fre s h as is, o r placed on racks or lo ose ly fo rm e d
in to n e sts and allow ed to d ry f o r storage.
c h a p te r 25 C O O K IN G PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
813
Cook p a s ta a n d n o o d le s , b o t h
fre sh
and
d rie d ,
in
la rg e
am ount
o f
s a lte d
w a te r
to
E N S U R E TH E BEST FLA VO R A N D AN E V E N A N D A P P E A L IN G T E X T U R E . S O M E PASTAS A N D N O O D L E S COOK

V E R Y R A P I D L Y . O T H E R S T A K E S E V E R A L M I N U T E S TO C O O K P R O P E R L Y . I f Y O U A R E W O R K I N G W I T H A N
U N F A M I L I A R S H A P E O R S T Y L E O F C O M M E R C I A L L Y M A D E P A S T A , BE S U R E TO C O N S U L T T H E I N S T R U C T I O N S
ON T H E PACKAGE.
asta
and noo
A ll pasta has th e b e st fla v o r and te x tu re if it is served as soon as possible a fte r cooking.
This is esp ecially tru e o f fre s h pasta. However, th e re are a p p ro p ria te techniques to hold
cooked dried pastas to s tre a m lin e cooking durin g service (see H o lding Pasta f o r Service,
page 818).
Dry and fre sh pasta and noodles should be chosen according to the menu o r recipe
req uire m en ts. W a te r is th e m ost com m on cooking liquid, although some p re pa ration s may
call f o r s tock. S alt is added to th e w a te r as it comes to a boil.
For m ost pasta and noodles, choose a p o t th a t is ta lle r than it is wide. Filled pasta may
be prepared in p o ts th a t are w id e r than th e y are ta ll to make it easier to rem ove th e pasta
w ith o u t breaking it. For large am ounts o f pasta, you may use special pasta cookers, which
resem ble deep fry e rs . Place th e pasta in a w ire or p e rfo ra te d ba sket w ith a handle and
low er it in to b o ilin g o r sim m e rin g w a te r u n til cooked, then l i f t th e ba sket o u t o f th e w ater,
allow in g th e pasta to drain. Have available colanders, strain ers, and skim m e rs to drain the
pasta.
814
Cooking Pasta
(10 servings)
About V / 2 oz/43 g salt for

every 1 gal/3.84 L water
Finishing ingredients, including:

Salt and pepper
1 lb 8 oz/680 g dry pasta

Grated cheese
Plenty of water (at least
l
'/ 2
gal/5.76 L)
Sauces
Oils
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
]. Bring the salted w ater to a

rolling boil.
cooking pasta and noodles
Q basic formula
2. Add the pasta and s tir it to
separate the strands.

3. Cook the pasta until it is
tender but not soft.

4 . Drain the pasta
A1 dente pasta is the most desired doneness for the majority of pas
tas or noodles. The term al dente is Italian for "to the tooth" and refers to pas
ta that is very slightly crisp, instead of mushy or overcooked. Cook the pasta
or noodles until they can be bitten into easily, but still offer a slight resistance
and sense of texture.
im m ediately and serve

it at once or refresh it in
ice cold w ater to stop the
cooking.
c h a p te r 25 C O O KIN G PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
815
1. bring a large amount
o f w a te r to
a ro llin g boil. A llo w a m inim um o f 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L w a te r fo r

every 1 lb /4 5 4 g pasta. Add 3A to 1 o z/2 1 to 2 8 g s a lt to
each gallon o f co o kin g w a te r. Taste th e w a te r b e fo re add
ing pasta. It should be n o tice a b ly salty, b u t n o t unpleas
a n tly so.
Add f la t or e xtru d e d pasta and noodles all a t once
to th e b o ilin g w a te r. Long s tra n d s should be g e n tly sub
m erged in th e w a te r as th e y so fte n . E specially in th e be
ginning, s tir th e pasta a fe w tim e s to sep ara te th e strand s
or shapes and p re ve n t the m fro m s tic k in g to g e th e r. Lower
fille d pastas in to th e w a te r and reduce the heat to a sim
m er th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e to keep th e shapes fro m
b re a kin g a p art.
Cook th e pasta u n til it is p ro p e rly cooked and tender.
Drain im m e d ia te ly in a colander.
Some pastas and noodles cook very rapidly. Fresh
pasta may cook in less than 3 m inutes; d ried pasta may
ta ke up to 8 m in utes o r longer, depending on th e size and
shape. If you are w o rk in g w ith an u n fa m ilia r shape o r styte
o f pasta, be sure to co n su lt th e in s tru c tio n s on the pack
age. The m o st accu rate te s t f o r doneness is to b ite in to a
method in detail
piece or strand, as w e ll as to break a p a rt a stra n d or piece

and look a t th e in te rio r. As pasta cooks, it becom es tra n s
lu cen t th ro u g h o u t. An opaque or n o ta b ly d a rker core or
c e n te r shows th a t th e pasta is n o t co m p le te ly cooked.
Drain th e f la t o r e xtru d e d pasta or noodles in a colan
der, shaking g e n tly to help th e cooking w a te r drain away.
Tube shapes are prone to holding w a te r; g e n tly s tirrin g
the m w ith gloved hands helps to drain away as much w a te r
as possible. F illed pastas should be lifte d fro m th e cooking
w a te r g e n tly w ith a sp id e r o r s lo tte d spoon to avoid b u rs t
ing them . They may be tra n s fe rre d to a colander to drain or
b lo tte d b rie fly on to w e ls to rem ove excess water.
Fresh pasta is b e st served im m e d ia te ly. It is ready to
sauce o r o th e rw ise fin is h and serve now. D ried pasta may
be p ro p e rly cooled and s to re d f o r la te r service.
NOTE: Reserve som e o f th e dra in e d p a s ta w a te r to
a d ju s t the sauce's consistency, i f necessary.
816
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
cooking pasta and noodles
2. evaluate the quality o f th e cooked

pasta. P ro p e rly cooked d rie d pasta is te n d e r b u t s till has
te x tu re (top) w h ile overcooked pasta is m ushy (b o tto m ).
P ro p e rly cooked d rie d pa sta is te n d e r b u t w ith a d isce rn
ible te x tu re , a s ta te known as al de n te (Ita lia n f o r "to the
to o th ). Fresh pasta cooks rap id ly, w hich makes it easy
to overcook; it should be c o m p le te ly cooked b u t n o t raw
or doughy. Pasta and noodles should rem ain separate
and s tirre d once o r tw ic e as th e y cook. Pasta th a t has
been cooled and held should be p ro p e rly re h ea te d when
serving. Sauces and o th e r fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts paired
w ith pasta and noodles should be chosen to com p le m e nt
the shape o r te x tu re o f th e pasta (see Pairing Pasta w ith
Sauces below).
PAIRING PASTAWITH SAUCES
Saucesarecustomarilyselectedtosuita
particulartypeofpasta.Long,flatpastas
suchasfettuccineorlinguinearegenerally
servedwithsmooth,lightsaucessuchas
creamsauces,vegetablecoulis,orbutter
andcheesecombinationsthatwillcoatthe
strandsevenly.Tubepastassuchaselbow
macaroniorzitiandtwistedpastassuchas
fusilliarenormallypairedwithmoreheav
ilystructuredsauces,suchasameatsauce
oronewithagarnishoffreshvegetables,
becausetheseshapesareabletotrapthe
Apastasflavorisalsoanimportant
considerationwhenchoosingasauce.
Thedelicateflavoroffreshpastaismost
successfullypairedwithlightcreamor
butter-basedsauces.Heartiersauces,such
asthosethatincludemeats,areusually
combinedwithdriedpastas.
Filledpastasrequireonlyaverylight
sauce,becausethefillingprovidesacertain
amountofflavorandmoisture.Asauce
thatwilloverwhelmtheflavorofthefilling
isinappropriate.
c h a p te r 25 C O O KIN G PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
817
general guidelines for serving fresh

and dried pasta
Pasta dishes are su ite d to m any d iffe re n t service styles. The speed and ease o f preparing
pasta makes it a good choice f o r a la ca rte resta u ra n ts; in fa c t, som e re s ta u ra n t kitchens
include a separate pasta s ta tio n on the h o t-fo o d line. When p ro p e rly prepared, handled,
and held, pasta can also be used fo r banquet and b u ffe t service. Both th e pasta and the
accom panying sauces can be prepared in advance.
For a la carte service, cook o r reheat the pasta as close to service tim e as possible.
Since pasta loses heat rapidly, be sure to heat th e bowls or p la te s on which it is to be
served and serve it im m e dia te ly.
For b u ffe t service, choose s tu rd y pastas th a t w ill hold up w ell. Fully p re h e a t the steam
ta b le o r heat lamps b e fo re placing the pasta on the b u ffe t line. Cook, reheat, a n d /o r fin ish
the pasta as close to serving tim e as possible. Choose a h o te l pan deep enough to contain
the pasta c o m fo rta b ly , b u t n o t so large th a t th e pasta is spread o u t in a th in layer, where
it w ill lose heat and m o istu re rapidly. Even in a steam ta b le , heat is lo s t rapidly. There is a
lim it to how long pasta dishes can be held succe ssfully fo r b u ffe t service, so t r y to p u t out
sm aller am ounts and replenish it fre q u e n tly . H olding pasta dishes over heat fo r to o long
can cause th e sauce to dry o u t and the pasta to begin to lose its te x tu re .
HOLDI NG PASTA FOR SERVICE

Fresh pasta does n o t hold as w e ll as dried pasta, and since it cooks rapidly, it is usually
fe a s ib le to cook it fre s h to o rd e r durin g service. Because it take s longer to cook, dried
pasta is som e tim es cooked ahead o f tim e and held fo r service. Rapidly cool and s to re the
pasta, if a p p ro p ria te or necessary, and reheat servings or batches as needed a t service. If
pasta is prepa red in advance and held, it should be s lig h tly undercooked so th a t it w ill not
o vercook durin g reheating. To cool the pasta, rinse it th o ro u g h ly w ith cold w a te r and drain
it w ell. A lte rn a tiv e ly , spread th e pasta o u t in a th in layer on a she et pan and re frig e ra te .
W hen th o ro u g h ly cooled in th is fashion, a sm all am ount o f o il can be used to to ss w ith the
pasta w hile s till w arm to pre ven t it fro m s tic k in g tog ether.
To reheat the pasta, b ring some salte d w a te r to a boil. There should be enough w a te r to
generously cover th e pasta, tho ugh n o t so much as is req uire d f o r cooking. Lower the pasta
in to th e w a te r in a ba sket o r by d ro pp ing it in, and le t it sim m er ju s t long enough to heat
through, depending upon th e thickn ess o f th e pasta. Remove th e pasta fro m the w a te r and
drain it w ell b e fo re fin is h in g it fo r service.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
T3
Fresh Egg Pasta
Makes
lb
oz/6 8 o g
1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour, or as needed

Pinch salt
4 eggs
1 to 2 tb s p /1 5 to 30 mL water, or as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable or olive oil (optional)
Herbed Pasta: Add 2 to 3 oz/57 to 8 5 g chopped herbs

w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flou r as
needed.
Black P epper Pasta: Add 2 ts p /4 g cracked black
peppercorns to the flour.
P
in
r+
P
1- }
rt>
n
1*
Red Pepper Pasta: Saute 6 oz/170 g pureed roasted red

peppers in an open vessel until reduced and dry. Cool
and add to the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional
flo u r as needed.
0 )
C/3
Tom ato Pasta: Saute 3 o z /8 5 g tom ato puree in an open
1. Com
binetheflourandsaltinalargebowl.Makea
wellinthecenter.
2 . Placetheeggs,w
ater,andoil,ifusing,inthecenter
ofthewell.Withafork,graduallypullthedryingre
dientsintotheeggmixture. Stiruntilaloosemass
forms.Asyoumixthedough,adjusttheconsistency
withadditionalflourorwater.Thedoughshouldbe
tackybutminimallymoist.
3.Turnthedoughoutontoaflouredw
orksurface
andkneaduntilsmoothandelastic,4to5minutes.
Gatherandsmooththedoughintoaball,cover,and
letthedoughrelaxatroomtemperatureforatleast1
hour.
4 . Rollthepastadoughintothinsheetsbyhandorby
usingapasta-rollingmachineandcutintodesired
shapes.Thepastaisreadytocooknow,oritmaybe
coveredandrefrigeratedforupto2days.
vessel over low heat until reduced and dry. Cool and add
w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flou r as
needed.
Pum pkin, C arrot, o r B eet Pasta: Saute 6 oz/1 7 0 g pureed
cooked pumpkin, carrots, or beets in an open vessel until
reduced and dry. Cool and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the
dough w ith additional flo u r as needed.
Basic Boiled Pasta

Makes
10
servings
V / 2 g al/5.76 L water
l
'/ 2
o z/4 3 g salt, or as needed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dry or fresh pasta

Sauce or garnish, as needed (optional)
Oil, as needed (optional)
W hole W heat Pasta: S ub stitute whole wheat flo u r fo r half

o f the all-purpose flour.
Buckw heat Pasta: S ubstitute 3'A oz/92 g buckwheat flou r
fo r an equal amount o f the all-purpose flour.
Spinach Pasta: Puree 6 oz/170 g spinach leaves, squeeze
dry in cheesecloth, and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the
dough w ith additional flo u r as needed.
S a ffro n Pasta: Steep 2 to 4 ts p /1 .60 to 3.20 g pulverized
saffron threads in 2 tb s p /3 0 mL hot water, cool
sufficie ntly, and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough
w ith additional flo u r as needed. Alternately, fresh pasta
can be cooked in salted saffron water.
C itru s Pasta: Add 4 ts p /1 2 g f inely grated lemon or orange
zest w ith the eggs. S ubstitute 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon
or orange juice fo r the water. Adjust the dough w ith
additional flo u r as needed.
Curried Pasta: Add 2 to 4 tsp/6 to 12 g Curry Powder (page
369 or purchased) to the flour.
1. Bringthewaterandsalttoaboilinalargestockpot.
2 .A
ddthepastaandstirwelltoseparatethestrands.
Cookuntiltender,butnottoosoft.(Freshpastamay
cookinlessthan3minutes;drypastamaytakeup
to8minutesorlonger,dependingonthesizeand
shape.)
3. Drainthepastaatonce.Youm
ayaddanydesired
sauceorgarnishatthispointandserve.
4 . Ifthepastaistobeheld,plungeitintoanicew
ater
bathorrinsethoroughlywithcoldwatertostop
thecooking.Drainthepastaimmediatelyandtoss
withasmallamountofoiltopreventitfromstick
ingtogether.Alternatively,drainthepasta,tosswith
asmallamountofoil,spreadinasinglelayerona
parchment-linedsheetpan,andrefrigerate.
C hapter 25 C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
819
O recchiette w ith Italian Sausage, Broccoli

Rabe, and Parmesan
Orecchiette with
Italian Sausage,
Broccoli Rabe, and
Parmesan
Makes
10
p
cn
C ~K
theparsley,basil,oregano,chives,andbroccolirabe.
Addthepastaand3oz/85goftheParmesan.Tossto
mix.
5. Garnishwiththerem
aining2oz/57gParmesanand
serveimmediately.
rD
n
id
<T>
in
servings
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg broccoli rabe

4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
Pasta alia Carbonara

Makes
10
servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Italian sausage, casing removed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g minced pancetta
2 lb /9 0 7 g spaghetti
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
6 eggs, beaten
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg orecchiette pasta
2 tb s p /1 2 g cracked black peppercorns
2 garlic cloves, sliced
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated Pecorino Romano, or as needed
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g red pepper flakes
Chopped parsley, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or water

2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano
2 o z/5 7 g minced chives
1. Cleanthebroccolirabebycuttingoffi in/3cmfrom
thebottomofeachstem.Blanchthebroccolirabein
boilingsaltedwaterinalargestockpotuntil90per
centcooked,about4minutes. Removeandshockin
icewater. Drainwellandhold.
2 . Heat2floz/6om
Loftheoilinalargesautepan
overmediumheat.Addthesausage,andcookuntil
nearlycookedthrough,crumblingthesausagewith
awhisk.Addtheonionsandcookuntiltender,about
4minutes.Addthetomatosauce. Letthemixture
cookuntilitresemblesaBolognese-stylesauce,
about5minutes.Removefromthepanandreserve.
3. Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboilandcook
thepastauntilaldente,about6minutes. Remove
fromthewateranddrain.
4 .W
hilethepastaiscooking,heatalargesautepan
overmediumheatwiththeremainingoil.Addthe
garlic,redpepperflakes,stock,andreservedsausage
mixture.Cookfor1minute,stirringtocombine.Add
1. Renderthepancettainalargesautepanoraron
deauoverlowheatuntilgoldenbrown,7to10min
utes,stirringoccasionally.Reservetheporkandfat
inthepanandkeepwarm.
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.A
dd
thespaghettiandstirafewtimestoseparatethe
strands.Cookthespaghettiuntilitistendertothe
bitebutstillretainssometexture.
3. Drainthespaghettiinacolander(seeN
ote).
4 . Returnthepanwiththepancettatom
ediumheat.
Tossthepastawiththeporkandrenderedfat,mak
ingsurethepastaisveryhotandscrapingthefond
offthebottomofthepan.
5. Rem
ovethepanfromtheheat.Addtheeggsandtoss
untiltheeggsarejustcooked.Addthepeppercorns
andcheeseandtoss.
6. GarnishwithchoppedparsleyandadditionalPecori
no,ifdesired.Serveimmediately.
NOTE: If the spaghetti is prepared in advance, rinse it with
cold water, drain well, and rub a small amount o f oil
through the strands. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Reheat the pasta in boiling salted water and drain well
before continuing.
821
Stir-Fried Glass
Noodles (Jap Choe)
Makes 10 servings
Pad Thai
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 g rice noodles, 'A in /6 mm thick
2 tb s p /1 4 g dried shrimp
20 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 fl o z/6 0 mLThai chili paste (nahm
2 o z/5 7 g dried wood ear mushrooms
prik paw), plus more as needed
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sweet-potato noodles
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, plus more as needed
6 green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar
l 3/ ) o z/5 0 g palm sugar, plus more as needed
1 o z/2 8g su g a r
l ' A o z/3 5 g chopped garlic
1 leek with light green part, cut into julienne
12 o z/3 4 0 g onion, thinly sliced with the grain
2 lb /9 0 7 g extra-firm bean curd, pressed

and cut into strips V* in /6 mm thick
l 3/t o z /5 0 g minced garlic

8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g green cabbage chiffonade
12 o z/3 4 0 g carrot, cut into julienne
Salt, as needed
10 eggs, beaten lightly, cooked to make an
omelet Vs in /3 mm thick, cut into julienne
6 eggs, beaten slightly

4 green onions, shaved into l-in /3 -c m strips
1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts
2 3A o z/7 8 g roughly chopped cilantro
10 lime wedges
5 o z/1 4 2 g peanuts, toasted, coarsely chopped
1 . Soakthericenoodlesinw
armwaterfor30minutes
anddrainwell. Soakthedriedshrimpfor30minutes
incoolwater. Drainandfinelychop.
separatelyincoolwaterovernight. Drainand
reservetherehydrationwater.
2 .W
hisktogetherthechilipaste,fishsauce,vinegar,
andsugar.
2 .Cutofftheentirestemoftheshiitakes.Cutthecaps
3. Heattheoilinaw
okovermedium-highheat.Add
intostripsM
sin/3mmwide.Trimoffthehardnod
ulesandcutthewoodearmushroomsintostrips
theshrimp,garlic,leek,andbeancurd.Stir-fryuntil
theleekbrightensincolorandsoftensslightly.The
Vsin/3m
mwide.
garlicshouldbegintoturngolden,butnotbrown.
3.Pourboilingw
ateroverthenoodlestocoverbyatleast
4 .A
ddthenoodlesandcoatwiththeoil. Stir-fryfor30
2in/5cm-Soakuntilrehydratedandelastic,8to10
minutes.Drain,rinsewithcoolwater,andreserve.
seconds.Pushthenoodlestotheupperedgeofone
sideofthewok.Addadrizzleofoiltothespacecre
4 .W
hisktogetherthegreenonions,soysauce,sesame
a
tedinthewok,thenaddthebeateneggsandspread
oil,andsugar.
w
ithaspatulatobegincooking.Allowtheeggsto
5.H
eattheoilinawokandstir-frytheonionsand
c
o
okfor10secondsbeforebeginningtostir-frythe
garlicuntilaromatic.Addthemushrooms,redpep
noodle/eggmixtureagain.
per,cabbage,andcarrots,andstir-fryuntiltheveg
5. Stirinthefishsaucem
ixtureandthegreenonions.
etablesarealmostcookedthrough.
S
tir
-fr
y
u
n
til
th
e
n
o
o
d
le
saresoft,addingwateras
6. Addthenoodlesandstir-fryuntilheatedthrough.
necessarytofacilitatetherehydrationofthenoodles.
7.Stirinthesoysaucem
ixture. Seasonwithsaltand
Foldinthesproutsandcilantro.Adjustseasoning
pepper. Ifthemixtureappearsdry,moistenwiththe 6. w
ithchilipaste,fishsauce,andsugar,asneeded.
reservedshiitakeliquid.
Garnishwithlimewedgesandpeanutsandserve
8. Garnishwiththeomeletjulienneandserveimme
immediately.
diately.
1.Rehydratetheshiitakesandw
oodearmushrooms
822
Pad Thai
Tempeh Cashew Noodles
Tempeh Cashew
Noodles
Makes10portions
Lasagna di Carnevale
Napolitana
Makes10servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g dried lasagna noodles
10 o z/2 8 4 g Italian sweet sausage
2 fl o z/6 0 mL soy sauce
1 4 o z /3 9 7 g ric o tta
3 tb s p /4 5 mL rice wine vinegar
2 ts p /9 g brown sugar
3 eggs
3/ t o z/21 g chopped parsley
1 tb sp /1 6 g chili paste
Salt, as needed
10 o z /2 8 4 g udon noodles
1 lb /4 5 4 g tempeh, cut into small dice
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Bolognese M eat Sauce (page 296)
1 onion, cut into small dice
1 red pepper, cut into small dice
10 o z /2 8 4 g mozzarella, thinly sliced or shredded
8 o z/2 2 7 g green beans, cut in half
P
i- i
0 )
o
3A cup/89 g cashews, toasted
1 large zucchini, thinly sliced
P
in
r+
(*D
GO
atertoaboil.Addthe
noodlesandstirwelltoseparate.Cookuntiltender
butnotoverlysoft,about8minutes.Drainthenoo
dlesatonceandrinsewithverycoldwater.Drain
Chopped cilantro, as needed
againandreserve.
Chopped toasted cashews, as needed
2 . Cookthesausageonasheetpanina350F/i76C
oven,about15minutes. Removethecasingfromthe
1. Com
binethecashews,two-thirdsoftheminced
sausage,ifdesired,andslicethinly.Reserve.
garlic,thesoysauce,vinegar,sugar,sesameoil,and
chilipasteinafoodprocessororblenderandprocess 3.Tomakethecheesefilling,combinethericotta,
4oz/113goftheParmesan,theeggs,andparsley.
untilsmooth.Setaside.
Seasonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg,ifusing.Mix
2 . Cookthenoodlesinboilingsaltedw
ateruntil
well.
tender,7to9minutes. Drain.
3. H
eattheoilinalargesautepanorwokovermedium 4 . Spreadasmallamountofthemeatsauceonthebot
tomofanoiledhalfhotelpan.
heat. Stir-frythetempeh,onions,andpeppersuntil
5. Layinsom
eofthenoodles,overlappingthemno
theonionsaretranslucent,4to5minutes.
morethanV4in/6mm.Donotallowthenoodlesto
4 .A
ddthezucchiniandgreenbeansandstir-fryuntil
foldupthesidesofthepan.
tender,3to5minutesmore.Addtheremaining
6. Spreadthecheesefillingabout%in/6mmthick,
garlicandstir-fryuntilfragrant,about1minute.
thenaddalayereachofsausage,sauce,mozzarella,
5.A
ddthenoodlesandtosstocombine.Addtheca
andasprinkleoftheremainingParmesan.Continue
shewsauceandtosstocoat. Heatthrough,about5
layeringtheingredientsinthismanner,reserving
minutes.
aportionofsauceandParmesanforthetop.Finish
6. Serveimmediately,garnishedwithcilantroand
w
ithalayerofnoodles.
cashews.
7. Coverwiththereservedsauceandtopw
iththere
mainingParmesan.
GARNISH
continued
c h a p te r 25 C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
825
8. Bakeina375F/i9iCovenfor15minutes. Reduce
theheatto325F/i63Candbakefor45minutes
more.Ifthetopbrownstoofast,coverthepanlight
lywithgreasedaluminumfoil.
9 .Allowthelasagnatorestfor30to45m
inutesbefore
cuttingintoservings.
Classic Bolognese
Lasagna with Ragu
and Bechamel
(Lasagna al Forno)
NOTE: Lasagna can be made w ith raw noodles as well.
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g Spinach Pasta (page 819)
V A q t/1 .2 0 L Bolognese M eat Sauce (page 296), cold
Couscous
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Bechamel Sauce (page 295), cold
Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 1 3 g finely grated Parmesan

2 o z/5 7 g butter
20 to 24 f I o z/6 00 to 7 2 0 mL cold water

BO fl o z/9 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 lb /4 5 4 g couscous
V2tsp /1 g ground turmeric

1. Com
bine16floz/480mLofthewaterwithhalfof
thesalt. Soakthecouscousinthesaltedwaterfor1
hour.
2 . Drainthecouscousinacolanderlinedwithcheese
clothorthetopofacouscoussieresetoverapotof
simmeringwaterorstew.Coverthepotandletthe
couscoussteamfor10minutes.
3. Em
ptythecouscousintoahotelpanandstirtosepa
ratethegrains.Add2floz/6omLofthewaterand
mixittogetherbyhand.Letitrestfor15minutes.
4 . Repeatsteps2and3tw
omoretimes.
5. Stirinthebutterandturm
eric. Seasonwithsaltand
pepper. Serveimmediately.
826
1. RollthepastaViein/1.50m
mthickbyhandorbyus
ingapasta-rollingmachine. Cutthesheetsofpasta
into5byn-in/13by28-cmrectangles.
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedw
atertoaboil.Addthe
pasta,returnthewatertoaboil,andcookthepasta
for10seconds. Drainthepastaanddropitintocold
water. Letthepastacoolfor2minutes,drain,and
placeonpapertowelstodry.
3. Spreadasm
allamountofthemeatsauceonthebot
tomofabutteredhalfhotelpan.
4 . Layintherectanglesofpasta,overlappingbyno
morethan%in/6mm.Donotallowthepastatofold
upthesidesofthepan.
5. Spreadasm
allamountofbechamelonthepastaand
sprinklewithsomeofthecheese.
6. Repeatthisprocessuntilthereare5layersofpasta,
alternatingbetweencoatingthelayerswiththemeat
sauceandbechamel.Topthelastlayerwithbecha
melandgratedcheese,anddotwithbutter.
7. Bakeonthetoprackina45O
0F/232Covenuntil
goldenbrown,20to25minutes.
8. Allowthelasagnatorest10minutesbeforecutting
intoservings3by4in/8by10cm.Serveeachpor
tionwith3floz/90mLofthetomatosauce.
Classic Bolognese Lasagna w ith Ragu and

Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno)
Asparagus and White

Bean hasagna
Makes
10
servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g Fresh Egg Pasta (page 819)

1 lb /4 5 4 g white beans, cooked and drained
in
withsomeofthewhitebeanpuree. Placeanother C
+
layerofpastaontop,addasecondlayerofbean
P
puree,andtopwithonemoresheetofpasta.Adda ^
spoonfuloftheasparagusmixturetothefinallayer o>
ofpasta.
t
7. Garnishthelasagnaswithadrizzleofoliveoiland 13
gratedParmesanandserveimmediately.
rt>
in
3 whole garlic cloves

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, plus as needed
Salt, as needed
12 o z/3 4 0 g baby spinach
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Madeira
2 lb /9 0 7 g asparagus, blanched and
cut into l-in /3 -c m pieces
1 lb /4 5 4 g shelled green peas
GARNISH
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

Grated Parmesan, as needed
1. Rolloutthepastadoughintothinsheetsbyhandor
byusingapasta-rollingmachine. Cutthesheetsinto
12largesquares, andcoverwithplasticwrapuntil
needed.
2 .Com
binethebeans,wholegarlicclove,rosemary,
andtheoliveoilinafoodprocessororblenderand
processuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
Setaside.
3. Inalargesautepan,heat2tbsp/30m
Loliveoilover
mediumheat.Addtheshallots,mincedgarlic,and
spinachandsauteuntiltheshallotsaretranslucent
andthespinachiswilted,2to3minutes.
4 . DeglazethepanwiththeM
adeira.Lettheliquid
reducecompletely.Addtheasparagusandpeasand
tosstocombineandheatthrough,about1minute.
Stirinthesage.Keepwarmoverlowheat.
5. Cookthepastasheetsinsaltedboilingw
ateruntil
tender, 6to8minutes. Drain.
6. Placeonesheetofpastaonaheatedplateandtop
829
Ravioli Bercy
Makes10servings
RAVIOLI
2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg leeks, thinly sliced
1 3 o z /3 6 9 g ric o tta
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chervil
Salt, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g Fresh Egg Pasta (page 819)
MUSHROOM BERCY SAUCE
4 o z/1 1 3 g chanterelle mushrooms
4 o z/1 1 3 g oyster mushrooms
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g white button mushrooms
4V2 o z/1 2 8 g shallots, finely chopped
V i o z/1 4 g garlic paste
5.Assem
bletheraviolibyplacingabout2tbsp/30mL
fillingonhalfthecutpasta.Brushtheedgeslightly
withwater,thentopwithanotherpieceofpasta.
Pressfirmlytoseal.
6. Blanchtheravioliinsimmeringsaltedwaterfor1
minute,thenshockinanicewaterbath.Storeona
sheetpan,covered,andrefrigerated,untilneeded
forservice.
7.Tom
akethesauce,heatthebutterinalargesaute
panovermediumheat.Addthemushroomsand
sauteuntiltender,4to5minutes.Addtheshallots
andgarlicandsauteuntilfragrant,about2min
utesmore.
8. Addthewineandbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntil
thesauceisreducedandslightlythickened.Stirin
theparsley.
9 .A
tservice,finishcookingtheravioliinsimmering
saltedwateruntilaldente,3to4minutes. Drain
well.
1 0 .Ladle2floz/6om
LofthemushroomBercyonto
aplate,andtopwitharaviolo.Topwithbechamel
andmicroarugula.Seasonthedishwithsaltand
pepperandserve.

2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Bechamel Sauce (page 295), hot

V 2 o z/1 4 g micro arugula
Salt, as needed
1.H
eatthebutterovermediumheat.Addtheleeks
andsauteuntiltender,3to4minutes.Transferthe
leekstoamediumbowlandcoolcompletely.
2 .Stirthericotta,parsley,chives, chervil, andtarra
gonintotheleeks. Setaside.
3.Rollthepastadoughintostrips4in/10cmw
ide
usingapasta-rollingmachine.W
orkgraduallyuntil
thesheetsreachano.2thickness.Rolltwiceon
thefinalsetting.
4 .Usea4-in/io-cmroundcuttertocutout20pieces
fromthesheets.
id
p
Gnocchi di Semolina
Gratinati
Makes10servings
Gnocchi di Ricotta
m
r t
Makes10servings
1 lb 6 o z /6 2 4 g ricotta
i- 1
0 )
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, sifted
n
t*
50 fl o z/1 .5 0 L milk
3 eggs
3 fl o z /9 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-grain semolina
fD
in
r /4 ts p /4 g s a lt
16 fl o z/6 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
2 egg yolks, beaten
l'/2 o z /4 3 g butter
4 o z /1 1 3 g grated Parmesan
1. Bringthem
ilktoaboilinalarge,heavy-bottomed
potovermedium-highheatandseasonwithsalt.
2 .Turntheheatdow
ntomedium-low.Pourthesemo
linaintothemilkinathinstream,whiskingcon
stantlyuntilithasallbeenadded.Simmer,stirring
often,untilthesemolinaiscooked,20to30min
utes.Thesemolinashouldnothaveanoverlygritty
texture.
3. Rem
ovethepotfromtheheatandblendin3oz/85
gofthebutter,theeggyolks,and3oz/85gfthe
cheese.
4 . Shapethegnocchim
ixtureintoquenelles,pipe
itintolongtubes,orspreaditonasheetpantoa
thicknessofVzin/icm.Coolcompletely,andcutas
desired.
5. Cookthegnocchiinaliberalam
ountofrapidlyboil
ingsaltedwateruntiltheyfloattothesurface,then
cookfor2to3minutesmore.Drainwell.
6. Toservethegnocchi,transferthemtoaliberallybut
teredbakingdish.Brushordrizzlewiththeremain
ingbutterandtopwiththeremainingcheese. Bake
ina400F/204Covenfor5to6minutesorbrown
underabroilerorsalamander. Serveimmediatelyon
heatedplates.
V2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
1. Placethericotta, flour,eggs,oil, andsaltinafood
processor. Processuntiltheingredientscometogeth
ertoformasmoothdough,about1minute.Transfer
thedoughtoabowl.
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedw
atertoaboiloverhigh
heat.Usingtwospoons,shapethedoughintooval
quenelles,droppingthemonebyoneintotheboil
ingwater.Whenallthedoughhasbeenused,return
thewatertoaboilfor1minute.Transferthegnocchi
carefullytoabowlwithaslottedspoon.
3. H
eatthestock.Heatthebutterinamediumsaute
panovermediumheat;addthegnocchiandthehot
stock.Heatthrough,1to2minutes.
4 . Transferthegnocchiwithaslottedspoontoheated
bowlsforserving.Garnishwiththecheeseandpep
per. Serveimmediately.
NOTE: Ricotta gnocchi are very delicate and can break easily,
so take care when removing them from the water and
when transferring them to the serving bowls.
Chapter 25 C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
831
Gnocchi Piedmontese
Makes10servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter
3 eggs
Salt, as needed
Grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
1. Scrub,peel, andcutthepotatoesintolargepieces.
Boilorsteamthemuntiltenderenoughtomasheas
ily.Drainanddrythemoverlowheatoronasheet
panina300F/i49Covenuntilnomoresteamrises
fromthem,10to15minutes.Pureethehotpotatoes
throughafoodmillorpotatoricerintoaheated
bowl.
Shaping gnocchi using a fo rk
2 .A
dd1oz/28gofthebutter,theeggs,salt,pepper,
andnutmeg,ifusing.Mixwell. Incorporateenough
oftheflourtomakeastiffdough.
3. Rollthedoughintocylindersabout1in/3cmin
diameterandcutintopiecesabout1in/2.5cmlong.
Shapethegnocchiwithagnocchiboardorrolleach
oneoverthetinesofafork,pressingandrollingthe
doughwithyourthumb.
4 . Cookthegnocchiinsim
meringsaltedwateruntil
theyrisetothesurface,2to3minutes. Liftthegnoc
chifromthewaterwithaslottedspoonordrainwell
inacolander.
5. H
eattheremainingbutterinalargesautepanover
medium-highheat,addthegnocchi,andtossuntil
veryhotandcoatedwithbutter.Addthecheeseand
parsley.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper. Serve
immediatelyonheatedplates.
Shaping gnocchi using a gnocchi board
Spatzle
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.
W
orkthedoughthroughaspatzlemakerintothe
simmeringwater.Whenthespatzlecometothetop
ofthepot,about2to3minutes,removethemwitha
spider.Thespatzlearereadytofinishnow,ormaybe
cooledinanicewaterbath,drainedwell,andrefrig
eratedforlaterservice.
3. H
eatthebutterinalargesautepanovermediumhighheat.Addthespatzleandsauteuntilveryhot.
Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper,garnishwith
morefinesherbes(ifusing),andserveimmediately.
Makes10servings
6 eggs
8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL water
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g Fines Herbes (page 369),
or as needed (optional)
NOTE: Although browning the spatzle is not traditional,

some cooks prefer to allow them extra tim e in the pan to
become brown and slightly crisp.
1. Com
binetheeggs,milk,andwater. Seasonwithsalt,
pepper,andnutmeg.Addthefinesherbes,ifusing.
W
orkintheflourbyhandorwithawoodenspoon
andbeatuntilsmooth.Allowthedoughtorestforl
hour.
The spatzle dough should be thick but
Move the cup slowly back and fo rth
s till be able to flo w freely.
across the openings to produce the
Heat the spatzle thoroughly,
spatzle. Be sure th a t the w a te r is at

a rolling boil when the spatzle is
dropped in.
Bread Dumplings
Makes10servings
Biscuit Dumplings
Makes10servings
c/a
r+
P
t-i
1 lb /4 5 4 g white bread or rolls with

crust, cut into small dice

2 o z/5 7 g butter
1 ts p /3 g salt
CD
n
id

XSI
4 o z /1 13 g all-purpose flour
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley (optional)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL milk, or as needed
About
2 V i
q t/2 .4 0 L stock, broth, or soup
5 eggs
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
1. Drythebreadina250F/i2iCovenuntilcom
plete
lydryandcrisp,20to30minutes.
2 .H
eatthebutterinamediumsautepanoverme
diumheatandaddtheonions. Sauteuntillightly
browned,8to10minutes. Removefromthepanand
cool.
3. Com
binethebread,flour,andsauteedonionsina
largebowl.Combinethemilk,eggs,parsley,salt,
pepper,andnutmeg,ifusing,inanotherbowl.Pour
theliquidmixtureintothedrymixtureandblend
togetherlightly.Letstand,covered,for30minutes.
Addmoremilkifthemixtureisverydry.
4 . Shapethem
ixturebyhandinto2-in/5-cmroundor
ovaldumplings.
5. Poachthedum
plingsinbarelysimmeringsalted
waterfor15minutes.Theyarereadytoservenow,or
maybelightlymoistenedandkeptcoveredinahotel
panforservice.
6. Toserve,drainthedumplingswithaslottedspoon
orskimmer,andserveonheatedplates.
1. Sifttheflour,bakingpow
der,andsalttogether.Add
themilkandparsley,ifusing,andmixgently.Donot
overmix.Theconsistencyshouldbeslightlysofter
thanbiscuitdough.
2 . Bringthestocktoasim
merinalargesaucepot.
Dropi-oz/28-gportionsofdoughintothestock
about1in/3cmapart.W
orkinbatches,ifnecessary.
Coverthepotandcookthedumplingsuntilthey
haveexpandedandcookedcompletelythrough,
about15minutesperbatch.Returnthecookingliq
uidtoafullsimmerbetweenbatches.
3.Thedum
plingsarereadytoservenow,ormaybe
leftinthecookingliquidtoholdhotforservice.The
dumplingscanalsobeservedwithstew.
c h a p te r 25 C O O K IN G PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
835
Hush Puppies
T3
Hush Puppies
Dim Sum
Makes10servings
Makes20servings
2 eggs, beaten
DUMPLING SKINS
1 lb /4 5 4 g flour
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rendered bacon fat
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL hot water
/2
o z/4 3 g minced onion
12 o z/3 4 0 g white cornmeal

8 o z /1 7 0 g cake flour
'A tsp /1 g ground black pepper
'A ts p /0.50 g cayenne
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil or lard, or as needed
1. Com
binetheeggs,milk,fat,andonioninasmall
bowl.
2.. Com
binethecornmeal,flour,bakingpowder,salt,
pepper,andcayenneinanotherbowl.Makeawell
inthecenterandaddthewetingredients. Stirgently
untiljustcombined.
3. Formthedoughintoroundballs,aboutl in/3cmin
diameter.
4 . Heattheoilto350F/i77Cinaheavypotordeep
fryer.Deepfrythedoughuntilcrispandbrown,2to
3minutes,workinginbatchesifnecessary.Remove
fromtheoilwithaspideranddrainbrieflyonpaper
towels. Serveimmediately.
FILLING
P
cn
C "h
1-5
rD
n
h--
Cl
in

8 o z/2 2 7 g shredded Chinese cabbage
2 o z/5 7 g chopped green onions
1 tb s p /1 5 mL soy sauce
1 egg white
Salt, as needed
1. Topreparethedum
plingskins,mixtheflourand
waterinamediumbowltomakeasmoothdough.
Letstandfor30minutes.Dividethedoughinto
Vi-oz/14-gportionsandrolleachintoathincircle.
2 . Topreparethefilling,com
bineallthefillingingre
dientsandmixwellinamediumbowl.Checkthe
fillingconsistencyandseasoningbysauteingasmall
amountandtastingit.
3. Place1tbsp/15m
Loffillingonadumplingskin.Fold
inhalfandcrimpandsealtheedgestightly.
4 . Steamthedum
plingsinanAsian-stylebamboo
steameroracoveredperforatedhotelpanoverboil
ingwateruntilcookedthrough,about8minutes.
Serveimmediately.
P o tsticke rs: Use prepared wonton wrappers instead of
preparing the dough, if desired. Fill and seal dumplings as
described above. Heat about ]A in /6 mm oil in a large saute
pan. Add the dumplings in a single layer and pan fry over
medium-high heat until the bottom s are very crisp and
brown. Add enough stock, broth, or w ater to come.up to
I/2 in/1 cm in the pan. Cover the pan and steam the
potstickers fo r 6 to 8 minutes, or until the wrapper is
translucent and tender. Serve immediately.
837
Steamed Dumplings
(5hao-Mai)
Makes
10

20 shao-mai wrappers
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce (page 841)
servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g ground pork, very cold

2 green onions, thinly sliced
2 ts p /1 0 mL oyster sauce
1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce
1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil
2 tb sp /1 8 g cornstarch
l e gg
1 tb sp /1 5 mL Shaoxing rice wine
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
Pinch ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled,
deveined, chopped into /t-in /6 -m m pieces
1 o z/1 4 g water chestnut, cut into brunoise
1 o z/2 8 g carrot, cut into brunoise
1. Placethepork,ginger,greenonions,oystersauce,soy
sauce,oil,cornstarch,egg,wine,salt,andpepperinto
achilledfoodprocessorfittedwiththesteelblade.
Pulsethemixtureuntilwellcombined.Themixture
willbegintopulltogetherintoonemass.Transfertoa
chilledmixingbowl.
2 .A
ddtheshrimp,waterchestnuts,carrots,andcilantro.
Mixuntilincorporated.Chillthemixtureuntilitis
verycold.
3. Usingatablespoon,placeam
oundofthefillingmix
tureinthecenterofeachwrapper.Gathertheouter
edgesofthewrappertoformacylinderwiththefill
ingexposedatthetop.W
rapyourpointerfingerand
thumbaroundthecenterwaist.Dipyourthumb
fromtheoppositehandinwater(topreventsticking)
anduseittocompactthefillinginthedumpling.
Gentlytaptheentiredumplingonthetabletoensure
thatitwillstayuprightinthesteamer.
Line up the circles o f dough and place the fillin g in the cen-
Here, the dumplings are placed on top o f cabbage leaves to
te r o f each circle. Gather the dumpling dough into a cylinder
prevent them from to sticking to the steamer,
around the filling , pinching the excess dough together.
. BringwatertoavigorousboilinanAsiansteamer.
Oilthesteamerrackwithsesameoilorlineitwith
cabbageorlettuceleavesorparchmentpapertopre
ventthedumplingsfromsticking.
.Arrangethedumplingsinthesteamer.Coverand
steamuntilcookedthroughandfirm,about5minutes.
D.Turnofftheheatandletthedumplingsrestforafew Cf"
minutesbeforeremoving.Serveimmediatelywiththe P
sauce.
NOTE: For smaller passed hors d'oeuvre, use 1 tsp /5 mL
fillin g per dumpling.
<D
O
^"3
ro
GO
"
T3
Pan-Fried Dumplings
(Guo Tie)
Makes10dumplings
4 o z/1 1 3 g wheat starch
l
'/ 2
ts p /5 g butter, very cold, cut into small pieces
5 '/2 fl o z/1 6 5 mL boiling water

6 o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage
1 thinly sliced green onion
1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce
le g g
l
/2
ts p /4.50 g cornstarch
1 ts p /3 g salt
'/ 2
tsp /1 g ground white pepper

/2
c-
P
c/a
J. Placeltbsp/15mLofthefillingoneachcircle
ft'
ofdoughandfoldasdesired.Lightlypinchthe
P
areawherethedoughmeets.Transfertoalightly HJ
floured,parchment-linedsheetpan.
CD
c
U.Heatalargecast-ironskilletovermedium-high
(
1<
heat.Add2tbsp/30mLofthevegetableoiland
swirltocoatthesidesofthepan.
(*D
C/3
7.W
hentheoilishot,arrangethedumplingsincon
centricrings,startingfromtheoutsideofthepan.
8. Cookuntilthebottomsarecompletelybrowned.
Releasethedumplingsfromthepanwithaspatula
beforeproceedingtothenextstep.
9 .Slow
lyandcarefullyaddthestocktocomeabout
halfwayupthesidesofdumplings.Bringtoasim
mer,coverthepan,andcookuntilthenoodle
casingiscookedandthedumplingsareheated
through,1to2minutes.
10 .Rem
ovethecoverandcookuntilallthestockhas
evaporatedorbeenabsorbed.Addtheremaining
oilandcookuntilthebottomsofthedumplings
arecrisp.Serveimmediatelywiththesauce.
ts p /7.50 mL dry sherry
/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar
Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce
Makes34 fl oz/1.02 L

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL rice wine vinegar
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Ginger-Soy Dipping
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce

1.Placetheflourandw
heatstarchinthebowlofa
foodprocessorfittedwiththesteelblade.Asthe
machineisrunning,graduallyaddthecoldbutter.
Addthewaterinaslowstream;thedoughshould
begintocometogetherasasolidmass.
2 .Runforanadditional10secondstokneadthe
dough.Transferthedoughtoaflouredworksur
faceandkneaduntilsmooth.W
rapinplasticwrap
andletitrestforlhouratroomtemperature.
3.Com
binethepork,cabbage,greenonion,ginger,
soysauce,sesameoil,egg,cornstarch,salt,pepper,
sherry,andsugarinalargebowl.Mixwellandad
justseasoning.
4 .Dividethedoughinto2pieces.Rollouteachpieceto
aVi6-in/i.50-mm thickness.Useafloured3y2-in/
9-cmroundcuttertocutthedoughinto10pieces.
Coverthedoughtopreventitfromdryingout.
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced ginger

4 o z /1 1 3 g s u g a r
Whiskalltheingredientstogetherinabowluntilthe
sugarisdissolved.Thesauceisreadytoservenow,
ormayberefrigeratedforlateruse.
c h a p te r 25 C O O K IN G PA ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
841
Potato and CheddarFilled Pierogi with

Caramelized Onions,
Beurre Noisette,
and Sage
Makes10servings
FILLING
6 lb /2.72 kg chef's potatoes
7 egg yolks
9 o z/2 5 5 g Cheddar, grated
V A o z/5 0 g halved and thinly sliced green onions
Salt, as needed
DOUGH
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g semolina flour
9 eggs
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
6 o z/1 7 0 g clarified butter

'/ t t s p / l g salt
Pinch ground white pepper
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g onions, caramelized
2 . Stirintheeggyolks,cheese, andgreenonions. Sea
sonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg.Coverandsetthe
fillingaside.
3.Tom
akethedough,placethereservedpotatowater,
flours,eggs,andsaltinanelectricmixerfittedwith
adoughhook.Mixatmediumspeeduntilthedough
formsasmoothball,3to4minutes. Dividethe
doughinto4piecesandkneadeachonaflouredsur
faceuntilthedoughisbarelytacky.Covereachwith
plasticwrap,andallowittorestfor20minutes.
4 . Rollthedoughusingapastam
achinetoaVfa-in/
1.50-mmthickness.Cutthedoughintocircleswith
a21/2-in-/6-cm-diameterbiscuitcutter.Lightlybrush
theedgeswitheggwash.
5. Placeapproxim
ately1tbsp/15mLoffillingontothe
centerofeachdoughcircle. Foldinhalftoforma
half-moonandpinchtheedgestoseal.
6. Simmerthepierogiinalargepotofboilingsalted
wateruntiltheedgesofthedougharefullycooked,
4to5minutes.Thepierogiarereadytofinishnow,
ormaybecooledinanicewaterbath,drained,and
refrigeratedforlaterservice.
7. H
eattheclarifiedbutterinalargesautepanover
mediumheat.Addthepierogiandsauteuntilgolden
brownonbothsidesandheatedthrough,about2
minutesperside. Removethepierogifromthepan
andkeepwarm.
8. Pourofftheclarifiedbutter,increasetheheatto
medium-high,addthewholebutter,andbringitto
noisette(goldenbrown),about2minutes.Adda
pinchofsaltandwhitepepper,anddrizzleoverthe
pierogi.
9 .Garnishwiththecaram
elizedonions,sage,andsour
creamandserveimmediately.
2 tb sp /6 g sage chiffonade
1. Scrub,peel, andcutthepotatoesintolargepieces.
Boiltheminsaltedwateruntiltenderenoughto
masheasily.Drain,reservingandchilling8floz/240
mL o
fthecookingliquid.Drythepotatoesoverlow
heatoronasheetpanina300F/i49Covenuntil
nomoresteamrisesfromthem.Whilethepotatoes
arestillhot,pureethemthroughafoodmillorpo
tatoricerintoaheatedbowl.
breakfas
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md garde manger
PART 6
cooking eggs
Eggs can be cooked in the shell, poached, fried, scrambled, or prepared as
omelets or souffles. Using fresh eggs for cooking is important to ensure the
best flavor and quality of the finished dish. The top grade of eggs, AA, indicates
that the eggs are fresh. They will have a white that does not spread excessively
once the egg is cracked and the yolk should ride high on the whites surface.
Regardless of the recipe or cooking method used, when eggs are overcooked,
excessive coagulation of the proteins forces water out and the eggs become dry.
CHAPTER
26
r .dr-
/W
J- &
7/
A lth o u g h
th e
te rm
boiled
may
appear
in
th e
nam e, eggs
p rep a re d
in t h e
s h e ll
s h o u ld
A C T U A L L Y BE C O O K E D A T A B A R E S I M M E R F O R B E S T R E S U L T S . EGGS A R E C O O K E D IN T H E S H E L L TO M A K E
h a r d
- a n d s o f t - c o o k e d a n d c o d d l e d e g g s . T h e y m a y b e s e r v e d d ir e c t l y in t h e s h e l l o r t h e y
M A Y BE S H E L L E D A N D U S E D TO M A K E A N O T H E R P R E P A R A T I O N S U C H A S D E V I L E D E G G S , OR A S A G A R N I S H
F O R S A L A D S OR V E G E T A B L E D I S H E S .
cooking eggs in
the shell
Check each egg c a re fu lly and discard any w ith cracked shells. Eggs should always be p ro p
erly re frig e ra te d u n til you are ready to cook them .
S elect a p o t deep enough f o r th e eggs to be subm erged in w a te r. Have on hand a s lo t
te d spoon, skim m er, or spide r to rem ove eggs fro m the w a te r once th e y are cooked.
Place th e eggs in a p o t w ith enough w a te r to com p le te ly subm erge them (the w a te r
level should be a p p ro xim a te ly 2 in /5 cm above th e eggs) and add th e salt. It is com m on to
have th e w a te r already a t a sim m er when p re pa ring coddled and so ft-c o o k e d eggs. Hardcooked eggs may be s ta rte d in sim m e ring or cold w ater. In e ith e r case, low er the eggs gen
tly in to th e p o t so the y w o n't crack, and re tu rn (or bring) th e w a te r to a simmer. Do n o t allow
th e w a te r to bo il rapidly. W a te r th a t is a t o r close to a sim m e r w ill allow the eggs to cook
evenly, w ith o u t tou ghe ning the w hites.
S ta rt tim in g th e cooking only once th e w a te r reaches a sim m er and cook to the desired
doneness. For exam ple, a 3 -m in u te egg cooks f o r 3 m inutes fro m th e tim e the w a te r re
tu rn s to a sim m er a fte r th e egg has been added to th e w ater. If th e tim in g is s ta rte d when
th e w a te r is cold, th e egg w ill n o t be p ro p e rly cooked. S im m er hard-cooked eggs fo r 10 to
12 m inutes.
H ard-cooked eggs are ea sie st to peel w hile th e y are s till warm . Place them under cold
running w a te r u n til th e y are cool enough to handle. G en tly press down and ro ll th e egg over
a c o u n te rto p to crack th e shell b e fo re peeling. Peel th e shell and m em brane away w ith your
fing ers.
The yolks o f p ro p e rly cooked s o ft-b o ile d eggs are w arm b u t s till runny, w hile tho se o f
m edium -cooked eggs are p a rtia lly coagulated. P rop erly hard-cooked eggs are co m p le te ly
and evenly coagulated, w ith firm b u t te n d e r (not tough) w h ite s and no u n sig htly green ring
surro un din g th e yolk.
The green ring is th e re s u lt o f a chem ical rea ction betw een the iron and s u lfu r n a turally
pre sen t in eggs, fo rm in g green iron su lfid e . H eat speeds up th is rea ction . The b e st way to
pre ven t th e green rin g fro m fo rm in g is to w a tch the cooking tim e clo sely and not allow the
eggs to cook longer than necessary. Quick cooling also helps keep th e ring fro m form in g.
848
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
cooking eggs in the shell
basic formula
Eggs Cooked in the

Shell
(10 portions)
20 eggs (2 per portion)
Plenty of simmering water to

cook coddled, soft-, medium-, or
hard-cooked eggs; plenty of cold
water to cover eggs if following
the alternative hard-cooked
method
ltb s p /lO g s a lt
method
at-a-glance
1. Submerge eggs in
simmering water.
2. Return w ater to a simmer.
3. Cook to desired doneness.
The proper doneness o f a hardboiled egg
ch a p te r 26 CO O KING EGGS
849
Prepare poached
eggs
by
s l ip p in g
s h e l le d
eggs
in t o
barely
s im m e r in g
w ater
a nd
g en tly
C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E EG G H O L D S I T S S H A P E . T H E F R E S H E R T H E EG G , T H E M O R E C E N T E R E D T H E Y O L K , T H E
L E S S L I K E L Y T H E W H I T E I S TO S P R E A D A N D B E C O M E R A G G E D . T H E S E T E N D E R A N D D E L I C A T E L Y S E T E G G S
FO RM T H E BA SIS OF M A N Y D IS H E S . S O M E F A M IL IA R E X A M P L E S ARE EGGS B E N E D IC T OR F L O R E N T IN E ,
AN D PO ACHED EGGS U S ED AS A TO P P IN G FOR CO R N ED BEEF HA SH .
poaching eggs
Poached eggs can be p repared in advance and held s a fe ly throu gh ou t a typ ic a l service
period to m ake th e w orkload ea s ie r during service. S lig htly underpoach th e eggs, shock
them in ice w a te r to a rre s t the cooking process, trim th em , and hold th e m in cold w ater. A t
the tim e o f service, re h e a t th e eggs in sim m ering w ater.
Eggs are m o st o fte n poached in w ater, though o th e r liquids such as wine, stock, or
cream can also be used. Add vinegar and s a lt to the w a te r to encourage the egg p ro tein to
s e t fas te r. O therw ise, th e egg w h ite s can spread to o much b e fo re th e y coagulate.
Choose a n onreactive p ot th a t is deep enough fo r the eggs to rem ain com p le te ly sub
m erged. The size o f th e pan depends on th e size o f the batch. Have cups to hold the raw
eggs, as w ell as a s lo tte d spoon, skim m er, or spider fo r re trie v in g th e eggs fro m th e w ater,
and pap er tow els to b lo t the eggs dry, a paring knife fo r trim m in g th e eggs, and holding and
serving pieces. An in s ta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r helps to accurately m o n ito r th e te m p e ra tu re
o f th e w ater.
850
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
o
p
basic formula
Poached Eggs
(10 portions)
20 very fresh eggs (2 per

portion), chilled in individual
t r
i*
5 to 6 in/13 to 15 cm simmering
water (165 to 180F/74 to 82C)
Vi oz/14 g salt p e ri
gal/3.84 L water
QTQ
n>
8 fl oz/240 mL vinegar per
QTQ
1 gal/3.84 L water
CTQ
cups until ready to poach
C/3
method
at-a-glance
1. Add cracked eggs to
simmering poaching liquid.
2 . Cook to desired doneness.
3. Remove eggs with slotted
spoon.
4 . Blot excess liquid and trim
edges.
The shape o f the finished poached egg can be af

fected by its handling prior to and during the cooking process. For a desirable
shape, handle the eggs carefully when removing them from the shell, when
dropping them into the water, and when removing the finished poached eggs.
This will lessen the chances for the yolk to break prior to the cooking process,
as well as prevent undesirable or "messy" finished products.
5 . To reserve, plunge in ice
water and drain.
c h a p te r 26 CO O KING EGGS
851
1. gently add the eggs
one a t a tim e to
th e sim m ering (1 8 0 F /8 2 C ) poaching liquid. For the m ost

a ttra c tiv e shape, like a te a rd ro p , be sure th a t th e w a te r
is d eep enough. Fill a pan w ith w a te r to a d epth o f 5 to 6
in /1 3 to 1 5 cm and season it w ith ju s t enough vinegar and
s a lt to p re v e n t th e egg w h ite s fro m spreading. The v in e
gar and s a lt should be ju s t b arely p e rc e p tib le , not enough
th a t th e poached egg ta s te s stron g ly o f vinegar or salt.
G enerally, 8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL vineg ar and 1 tb s p /1 0 g s a lt fo r
each 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L o f w a te r are s u ffic ie n t.
To reduce th e chance o f b reakin g an egg in th e poach
ing liquid, b re a k th e eggs into cups. Discard any eggs th a t
have blood spots on th e yolks. Pour th e egg fro m th e cup
into th e poaching liquid.
Once added, th e egg w ill drop to th e b o tto m o f the
p ot, then f lo a t to th e to p . The w h ite s w ill s e t around the
yolk to c re a te a te a rd ro p shape. The m ore eggs added to
th e w a te r a t once, th e m ore th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e w a te r
w ill drop and th e m ore tim e it w ill ta k e to p ro p e rly poach
th e egg. W o rking in sm a lle r batches is actu ally m ore e f
fic ie n t. It g en e ra lly ta k e s 3 to 4 m inutes to poach an egg
pro perly, depending on m a rk e t size.
2. use a slotted spoon,
skim m er, or
s pid er to g e n tly lif t th e egg fro m th e w a te r. Blot the egg

on p ap er to w e ls to rem ove as much w a te r as possible. A
p ro p e rly poached egg should have a fu lly coagulated egg
w h ite and a w arm c e n te r th a t is only p a rtia lly set (slightly
thickened b ut s till flow ing ), and should be te n d e r w ith a
c om pact oval shape. If th e w h ite s a p p e a r ragged, trim
th e m w ith a paring kn ife to give a n eat appearance. The
poached egg is re a d y to serve now.
852
T3
O
3. slightly undercook eggs (2 V2to3
m inutes) th a t w ill be chilled and held fo r la te r service. L ift
th e eggs fro m th e poaching liquid and subm erge th e m in
ice w a te r until w ell chilled. Trim any irre g u la r shaping o f
Orq
th e w h ite around th e edges and hold in cold w a te r until

service. Drain th e eggs and hold th e m in a p e rfo ra te d pan
a>
Qrq
until tim e to re h e a t. To re h e a t th e egg, low er it into s im
Orq
m ering w a te r fo r 3 0 to 6 0 seconds to finish cooking and
c/a
p ro p e rly re h e a t it. S erve th e egg w hile s till very hot.
853
F r ie d e g g s c a l l f o r p e r f e c t l y f r e s h e g g s , t h e c o r r e c t h e a t l e v e l , a n a p p r o p r ia t e a m o u n t
O F C O O K I N G FAT, A N D A D E F T H A N D . F R I E D E G G S A m E R I C A N ' S T Y L E M A Y BE S E R V E D S U N N Y S I D E U P
( n o t t u r n e d ) O R O V E R ( T U R N E D O N C e ). F R I E D E G G S M A Y BE B A S T E D W I T H F A T A S T H E Y F R Y . D l S H E S
L IK E H U E V O S R A N C H E R O S , FO R E X A M P L E , F E A T U R E F R IE D EG GS AS PART OF A H E A R T Y D IS H OF EGGS,
T O R T IL L A S , A N D B E A N S . T H E F R E N C H P R E F E R S H IR R E D EG GS ( S U R LE P L A T ), W H I C H A R E C O O K E D IN T H E
O VEN W IT H V A R IO U S G A R N IS H E S .
ying eggs
Using very fre s h eggs is th e only w ay to ensure a rich fla v o r and good appearance in the
finished dish. W hen very fre s h eggs are broken onto a p late, th e yolk sits high on th e w hite
near the w hite's center. The w h ite is com pact and th ic k and it holds th e yolk in place. When
th e egg is frie d , th e w h ite holds to g e th e r in a n eat shape and th e yolk is m ore likely to stay
in ta c t. As eggs age, th e w h ite and yolk w eaken and thin.
To p re p a re eggs fo r frying, b reak th e m into clean cups. Any eggs w ith broken yolks can
be reserved fo r a n o th e r use. R e frig e ra te th e shelled eggs. (This m ay be done up to 1 hour
in advance.)
Use oils, whole or c la rifie d b u tte r, or ren dered bacon f a t fo r frying, even if using a non
stick surface. These cooking fa ts not only lub ricate th e pan; th e y can also add th e ir own
d is tin c t flavor. Season eggs w ith salt and p ep p e r as th e y cook fo r th e b es t flavor.
Fry eggs e ith e r in a s aute pan or on a griddle. The b est pan m a te ria ls fo r fry in g eggs are
w ell-season ed black s teel or nonstick surfaces. A h e a tp ro o f or m e ta l spatula or a p a le tte
knife is also needed fo r flip p in g and m oving th e eggs.
Place a fry in g pan over m edium heat. Add th e f a t to th e pan and continue to h eat un
til the fa t is hot. The ideal te m p e ra tu re range fo r fry in g an egg is 2 5 5 to 2 8 0 F /1 2 4 to
1 3 8 C the sam e range a t which b u tte r sizzles w ith o u t turnin g brown. If using a griddle,
adjust its te m p e ra tu re and brush th e surface w ith oil or a no ther cooking fa t. If the heat
is to o low, the egg w ill stick; if it is to o high, the edges o f th e w h ite m ay b lis te r and brown
b efo re th e re s t o f th e egg is p ro perly cooked.
B reak the eggs into cups. Fried eggs should have in ta c t yolks, unless th e custom er re
quests th a t they be broken. Slide or pour th e egg out o f the cup and into th e pan.
Cook th e eggs until done as desired. H ere th e y are sunny side up. Eggs are done once
the w hites have coagulated; the yolks may be s o ft and runny or set. For eggs cooked over
easy or over hard, flip th e eggs or turn th e m w ith a spatula. You may b aste th e eggs w ith
hot f a t to s e t the to p instead o f turnin g them . Or sprinkle a fe w drops o f w a te r on th e egg,
cover th e pan, and le t th e w a te r steam th e eggs.
P rop erly frie d eggs have shiny, tender, fu lly s e t w hites and a fa irly com pact shape.
They are not b lis te re d or browned. Yolks should be p ro p e rly cooked, according to custom er
re q u e s t or intend ed use.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Q basic formula
Fried Eggs
(1 0 portions)
20 very fresh eggs (2 per portion),

refrigerated until ready to cook
ONE OFTHE FOLLOWING

COOKING MEDIUMS:
Whole butter
Clarified butter
Cooking oils
Rendered bacon fat
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat fa t to 2 5 5 to
280F /124 to 138C.
2. Slide cracked eggs into
pan.
ex p ert tips
3. Cook to desired doneness.
T h G t y p e o f f 3 t u s e d will add additional flavor to the finished

fried egg. Depending on the desired result, any of the following fats can be
used to develop more flavor:
WHOLE OR CLARIFIED BUTTER / O LIVE OIL / INFUSED OILS / RENDERED BACON FAT
c h a p te r 26 C O O KING EGGS
855
S c r a m b l e d e g g s c a n b e m a d e in t w o w a y s : t h e e g g s c a n b e s t i r r e d c o n s t a n t l y o v e r l o w h e a t
F O R A S O F T , D E L I C A T E C U R D A N D A C R E A M Y T E X T U R E OR S T I R R E D L E S S F R E Q U E N T L Y A S T H E Y C O O K
F O R A L A R G E R C U R D A N D A F I R M T E X T U R E . W H E T H E R P R E P A R E D TO O R D E R O R TO S E R V E O N A B U F F E T
L I N E , S C R A M B L E D E G G S M U S T BE S E R V E D H O T, F R E S H , A N D M O I S T .
scrambling eggs
Choose eggs th a t are fresh , w ith in ta c t shells. Adding a small am ount o f w a te r or stock
(about 2 t s p /1 0 mL p er egg) to th e b ea te n eggs w ill m ake th e m p u ffie r as th e w a te r turns
to steam . M ilk or cream may be used to enrich the eggs. Scram bled eggs can be seasoned
w ith salt and pepper, a n d /o r fla v o re d or garnished w ith fre s h herbs, cheese, sauteed veg
e ta b le s, smoked fish, or tru ffle s .
Eggs can be scram bled in a saute pan or on a griddle. Nonstick surfaces make it easy to
prepare scram bled eggs w ith a minimum am ount o f added fa t. Black steel pans are appro
priate, as long as they are properly maintained and seasoned. Pans used fo r eggs should be
reserved fo r th a t use only, if possible. A h ea tp ro o f rubber spatula, wooden spoon, or spatula
is needed fo r stirring the eggs as they cook.
Blend the eggs ju s t until the yolks and w hites are com bined. Add liquid, if using, and
seasonings. Use a fo rk or a whisk to blend everything into a sm ooth, homogeneous m ixture.
H e a t th e pan and th e cooking f a t over m edium heat. Pour the eggs into th e pan; they
should begin to coagulate alm o st im m e d ia tely . Turn th e h ea t down to tow. Use th e back o f
a ta b le fo rk or a wooden spoon to s tir th e eggs as they cook. Keep both th e pan and the fo rk
in m otion to produce small, s o ftly s e t curds. The low er th e h ea t and the m ore c on stan t the
ag itatio n , th e cre a m ie r th e finished scram bled eggs w ill be. In fa c t, th e y may be p repared
by s tirrin g th e m c o n stan tly over a w a te r bath to p revent browning a lto gether.
Add garnishes, cheeses, or flav o rin g ing red ients once th e eggs are alm o st com pletely
set; fo ld th e s e ing red ients in over low heat, ju s t until inco rp orated . Rem ove th e eggs fro m
th e h eat when slightly underdone; they w ill continue to cook slightly fro m th e h ea t they
retain.
P rop erly p repared scram bled eggs have a m o ist te x tu re , cream y consistency, and d eli
cate flavor. M o is tu re w eepin g fro m the eggs indicates th a t they w e re overcooked.
856
m
n
I-S
basic formula
Scrambled Eggs
Salt and pepper as needed
(10 portions)
20 to 30 eggs (2 or 3 per portion)
1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 m L oil,
clarified butter, or rendered fat
QTQ
rt>
Up to 1 tbsp/15 mL water,
milk, or cream (optional)
Crq
QTQ
in
method
at-a-glance
Whisk eggs and season.
2. Heat fa t over medium heat.
3. Add eggs and reduce heat
to low.
expert tips
4. Cook, stirrin g the eggs
constantly, to the desired

doneness.
Depending on the desired result, theadditionof aliquid

can affect both the flavor and texture of the finished eggs. Liquids to consider
include:
W ATER / M IL K / H E A V Y CREA M
Garnishing scrambled eggs
isanotherway to introduce
flavor and texture. Depending on the desired result, any of the following can
be added:
SPIC E S / FRESH H ERBS / GRATED C HEESE / COOKED BACON, H A M , OR
S A U S A G E /V E G E T A B L E S
857
T h e r o l l e d ( F r e n c h - s t y l e ) o m e l e t s t a r t s o u t l ik e s c r a m b l e d e g g s , b u t w h e n THE e g g s s t a r t
to
set
s a m e
, they are rolled
m a n n e r
, though
it
o v e r
is
. A f o l d e d (A m e r ic a n - s t y l e ) o m e l e t
o fte n
co o k ed
on
a g r id d l e
rather
th a n
is
in
prepared
a
in
m u c h
the
PAN, a n d i n s t e a d o f
B E I N G R O L L E D , T H E A M E R I C A N O M E L E T IS F O L D E D I N H A L F .
making omelets
There are two other styles of omelets, both based upon a beaten mixture of eggs. Flat
omelets, known variously as farm er-style omelets, fritta ta s (Italian), or tortillas (Spanish),
are a baked version. The finished dish is denser and easier to slice into servings, and can be
served at room tem perature. Souffleed or puffy omelets are made from eggs firs t sepa
rated into yolks and whites. The beaten whites are folded into the beaten yolks and the
dish is prepared by baking the omelet in a hot oven.
Choose eggs th at are fresh, with intact shells. As with scrambled eggs, the ability of
the egg to hold its shape is irrelevant, but fresh eggs are preferable. Season omelets with
salt, pepper, and herbs. Clarified butter is the most common cooking fat, although veg
etable oils also work well.
Omelets may be filled or garnished with cheese, sauteed vegetables or potatoes,
meats, and smoked fish, among other things. These fillings and garnishes are incorporated
at the appropriate point to be certain they are fully cooked and hot when the eggs have
finished cooking. Grated or crumbled cheeses will melt sufficiently from the heat of the
eggs, and are often added just before an omelet is rolled or folded.
S tart larger frittata s, as well as souffleed omelets, in a pan heated in the oven with the
cooking fa t before adding the eggs. Add garnishes fo r fla t and souffleed omelets at the
start of cooking time. For rolled or folded omelets, add fillings such as cheese when the
curds are barely set.
Rolled and souffleed omelets are made individually in omelet pans, which are basically
small saute pans. Omelet pans should either be well seasoned or have a nonstick surface.
Treat pans carefully and avoid scratching a nonstick surface with metal. A wooden spoon
or heat-resistant rubber spatula is useful to stir the eggs as they cook.
CHEF'S NOTES ON OMELETS

Eggs for omelets should be beaten only
an omelet, consider the delicate flavor of
enough to incorporate air or make them
the eggs and select ingredients that will

complement and not overwhelm them.
frothy.
Consider the size of the pan in relation
to the size of the omelet (number of eggs)
858
When selecting ingredients for filling
enough to blend the yolk and white, not
Before you begin preparation, make

sure that you have all of your ingredients
you are making. A pan that is too large or
and serving dishes assembled and within
too small will have an ill effect on the end
easy reach, so that you can attend to cook
result of the omelet.
ing the eggs.
Omelet
salt
(1 serving)
Pepper
2 or 3 eggs
Up to 2 tsp/10 mL water, stock,
milk, or cream (optional)
1
cooking fat
to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL
making omelets
Q basic formula
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Blend the eggs, adding any
liquid and seasonings.
2. Pour or ladle the egg
m ixture into a heated and

greased pan.
ex p ert tips
3. Swirl the pan over the heat,
stirrin g and scraping the

eggs simultaneously, until
curds begin to form .
can affect both the flavor and texture of the finished omelet. Liquids to con
Add a fillin g , i f desired.
sider include:
5. Cook the om elet until it is
Depending on the desired resuit, theaddition of aliquid
WATER / STOCK / M IL K / H E A V Y CREA M
set.
Garnishing 3n om elet
is another way to introduce flavor and
texture. Depending on the desired result, any of the following can be added:
SPIC ES / FRESH HERBS / GRATED C HEESE / BACON, H A M , OR SAUSAGE /
VEG ETAB LES
Chapter 26 C O O KING EGGS
859
1. shell the eggs fo r omelets and blend with

a liquid, if using, salt, pepper, and seasonings as close to
cooking tim e as possible.
For souffleed omelets, separate the eggs into whites
and yolks. Blend the yolks with seasonings and any liquid
desired, then beat the whites to medium peak and fold
them into the yolk mixture.
A portion-size omelet pan should be heated over high
heat. Add the butter or oil and allow it to heat, as well. The fat
should appear lightly hazy but should not be smoking. Some
garnish ingredients are added to the pan before the eggs;
others are added when the curds are almost completely set,
depending on the desired results and recipe specifics.
Toward the beginning o f cooking, stir the eggs con
stantly with the spatula to encourage even cooking. For
individually prepared rolled and folded omelets, keep the
eggs in constant motion as the om elet cooks. Cook rolled
and folded omelets over brisk heat to assure th at the
eggs begin to set almost imm ediately and don't stick to
the pan. If using an om elet pan, use one hand to swirl the
pan over the heat source and the other to stir the eggs
from the bottom and sides of the pan with the back of
a fork or a heat-resistant rubber spatula. Use a flexible
spatula to turn and stir an om elet cooked on a griddle.
2. gently shake the pan
to evenly
spread the eggs in the pan or use a spatula to spread the

eggs fla t fo r the best presentation. Garnish the om elet as
desired. Make sure th a t the om elet is of a uniform thick
ness or it will cook unevenly.
86o
making omelets
3. to make a rolled omelet, usethe

spatula to fold over one-third o f the omelet.
Use a rubber spatula or a fork to roll the edge of the
omelet nearest the handle toward the center. Shake the
pan to loosen the omelet, to make it easier to roll onto the
plate.
4. hold the plate near the pan and

roll the om elet out onto the plate.
Roll the om elet out of the pan directly onto a heated
plate, completely encasing any filling; make sure the
edges are caught neatly underneath the omelet. It may be
necessary to shape the om elet with a clean towel.
Evaluate the finished omelet. A rolled om elet should
be oval in shape and golden-yellow in color, with a creamy,
moist interior. A folded om elet is a half-circle shape; the
exterior is sometimes allowed to take on a very light gold
en color. A fla t om elet should be dense but moist, able to
be cut or sliced into servings, yet still hold its shape. A
souffleed om elet should be light and foamy, with slight
golden color on the upper surface; it starts to lose its vol
ume rapidly a fte r coming out o f the oven, however, so be
sure to serve immediately.
861
T h e P R EP ARA TIO N , AS S E M B L Y , AN D BA KING OF A S O U F F L E ARE NO T D IF F IC U L T TA SKS ON T H E IR O W N . T h e

T R I C K Y P A R T IS T I M I N G . S O U F F L E S , L I K E O M E L E T S A N D Q U I C H E S , A R E N O T S T R I C T L Y F O R B R E A K F A S T ;
I N FA CT, T H E Y A R E M O R E T Y P I C A L L Y P A R T O F T H E B R U N C H , L U N C H E O N , O R E V E N T H E D I N N E R M E N U ,
W H E R E S M A L L S O U F F L E S O F T E N AP PE AR AS HOT A P P E T IZ E R S , A S A V O R Y CO UR SE, OR AS A DESSERT.
savory souffles
The basic components o f any souffle, sweet or savory, are the base and beaten egg whites.
A heavy bechamel, often with the incorporation of egg yolks, is the base for many savory
souffles. Sweet souffles are often based on pastry cream. Other mixtures or preparations,
such as vegetable purees, can be used as the base or to flavor a base. It is important that
the base mixture provide enough structure to keep the souffle from collapsing as soon
as it is removed from the oven. The base may be flavored or garnished in many ways: with
grated cheese, chopped spinach, or shellfish, fo r example.
Egg whites give both volume and structure to the souffle. They should be carefully
separated from the yolks and beaten to soft peaks just before they are folded into the
base. Use meticulously clean bowls and whisks to beat the egg whites fo r the best volume
in the finished souffle. The yolks may be incorporated into the souffle base, or they may be
reserved for other uses. Be sure to keep eggs well chilled at all tim es fo r whotesomeness
and flavor.
A variety of sauces may be served with souffles. Cheddar Cheese Sauce (page 2 9 5 ) or
Mornay Sauce (page 29 5), vegetable coulis, or various tom ato sauces are appropriate for
savory souffles.
Souffles are usually baked in ceramic or glass souffle dishes or ramekins. For the best
rise, the sides of the dish should be straight. To prepare the molds, butter them lightly but
thoroughly and dust the sides and bottom with grated Parmesan, flour, or bread crumbs, if
desired.
The oven should be set to the appropriate tem perature, generally 4 0 0 to 4 2 5 F /
20 4 to 218C fo r an individual portion. The tem perature should be slightly lower for larger
souffles. Other equipment needs include a whisk or electric mixer and bowls for whipping
the egg whites, a spatula fo r combining the souffle mixture, and a sheet pan for baking.
862
savory souffles
Q basic formula
Souffle
(1 serving)
2 fl oz/60 mL vegetable puree

(consistency similar to bechamel)
A BASE, SUCH AS:
A LIGHTENER:
2 fl oz/60 mL heavy bechamel

for savory souffles
2 fl oz/60 mL egg whites,

beaten to soft peaks
SEASONINGS, FLAVORINGS, OR
GARNISH OPTIONS SUCH AS:
Salt and pepper
Vegetables
Grated cheese
2 fl oz/60 mL pastry cream

for sweet souffles
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
Prepare a base.
Add the flavoring.
3. Whip the egg whites.
Incorporate the whites into

the base.
The base contains the flavoring forasouffie. when add

ing flavoring or seasoning to the base, it is important that it be somewhat
strong. The addition of beaten egg whites will dilute the flavor, so the base
should start off very flavorful to account for this.
5. Fill the molds.

6.
Place them in a hot oven.
7. Do not disturb.
8 . Serve the souffles
immediately.
S o m e i n g r e d i e n t s that may be used as flavoring or seasoning for a

souffle base are as follows:
FLAVORED LIQUIDS FOR PREPARING THE BASE:
B RO THS / STO CKS / VEG ETAB LE JUICES OR PUREES
INGREDIENTS ADDED TO THE BASE AFTER ITS PREPARATION:

FIN ELY CHO PPED S EA FO O D OR M EA T / GRATED C HEESES / GRATED
VEG E TAB LE S / VEG E TA B LE PUREE
863
1. make the base and blend
in the
flavoring. Here, spinach and Parmesan are used.

The base mixture fo r many savory souffles is essen
tially a heavy bechamel. Egg yolks are often tem pered
into the hot base to provide richness, flavor, color, and
structure. The base may be prepared in advance and
refrigerated. For the best rise in the finished souffle,
have the base at room tem perature, or else work it with a
wooden spoon until it has softened. Fold flavoring ingre
dients such as pureed spinach into the base until evenly
blended.
Prepare the molds w ith a light film of butter and a
dusting o f flour, bread crumbs, or grated Parmesan.
2. whip the egg whites
to soft peaks
and fold gently to blend the whites with the base.

S o ft peaks will produce the proper rise, texture, and
structure in the finished souffle. Add the beaten whites in
two or three parts. The firs t addition will lighten the base
so th a t subsequent additions will retain the maximum
volume.
864
BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER
savory souffles
3. fill the prepared molds
as soon as
the egg whites are folded into the base.

Spoon or ladle the b atter into the mold gently to avoid
knocking air out of the batter. Fill molds about tw o-thirds
of the way full. Be sure to wipe the rim and outside of the
mold clean fo r a good, even rise.
4. place the souffles im m ediately in a hot

oven (4 2 5 F /2 1 8 C ) and bake until risen, cooked through,
and browned. For even cooking and a good rise, place the
molds on a sheet pan on a rack in the center o f the oven.
Bake the souffles as soon as the egg whites are folded
into the base. Do not disturb the souffles as they bake.
The drop in tem perature when the oven door is opened
could be enough to d eflate the souffle.
Remove individual souffles from the oven when done,
16 to 18 minutes. To check a souffle fo r doneness, shake
the dish very gently. The center should be firm and set. A
toothpick carefully inserted into the side of the souffle
should come out clean.
Serve the souffle immediately. Any accompanying
sauce should be hot and ready in a dish. The server should
be standing by, ready to serve the souffle as soon as it
comes from the oven.
A properly prepared souffle tastes of the primary
flavoring ingredient and is puffy, well risen, and browned.
865
Hard-Cooked Eggs
Deviled Eggs
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
20 eggs
10 Hard-Cooked Eggs (recipe precedes), cold

1 . Place the eggs in a pot. Fill the pot with enough cold
water to cover the eggs by 2 in/5 cm-
2 . Bring the water to a boil and immediately lower the

temperature to a simmer. Begin timing the cooking
at this point.
3 . Cook small eggs for 10 minutes, medium eggs for 11
V2 o z/1 4 g prepared mustard

Salt, as needed
minutes, large eggs for 12 to 13 minutes, and extralarge eggs for 14 minutes.
4 . Cool the eggs quickly in cold water and peel as soon

as possible. Serve the eggs now or refrigerate until
needed.
NOTES: Cracking the eggsjust a fte r cooking w ill allow
the trapped gases inside to escape, thus reducing
1 . Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Separate the yolks

from the whites. Reserve the whites separately until
ready to fill.
2 . Rub the yolks through a sieve into a bowl or place

them in a food processor.
3 . Add the mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire, hot
the amount o f green discoloration around the yolk.
sauce, salt, and pepper. Mix or process the ingredi
Additionally, the eggs w ill peel more easily if peeled as
ents into a smooth paste.
soon as they are cool enough to handle. If allowed to cool

completely, the membrane under the skin tends to stick
4 . Pipe or spoon the yolk mixture into the egg whites,

garnish as desired, and serve immediately.
to the hard-cooked egg white, making the egg d iff icult

to peel.
NOTES: The eggs can be separated and the fillin g mixed
An alternative method fo r hard-cooking eggs is to remove

the pot holding the eggs from the heat when the water
in advance, but if the eggs are not to be served
reaches a boil. Cover the pot and let the eggs stand in the
hot water fo r 15 minutes. This method is best suited for
cooking large batches o f eggs (2 dozen or more).
separately until ju st before service.
Coddled Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering

water and simmer fo r 30 seconds.
S o ft-C o o ke d Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering
water and simmer fo r 3 to 4 minutes.
M edium -C ooked Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already
simmering water and simmer fo r 5 to 7 minutes.
immediately, the whites and the yolks should be held
Garnishes may include chopped parsley, minced chives,

sliced green onion tops, dill sprigs, pim iento strips,
chopped olives, caviar, shredded carrots, ground cumin,
dried oregano, cayenne, or red pepper flakes.
Substitutes fo r all or part o f the mayonnaise include soft
butter, compound butter, sour cream, pureed cottage
cheese, s o ft cream cheese, yogurt, or creme fraTche.
Deviled Eggs w ith Tom ato: Add 2 oz/5 7g sauteed tom ato
concasse, V2 tsp /1 g dried herb (basil, oregano, sage, or
thyme), and/or V2 ts p /1 .50 g sauteed minced garlic or
shallots to the yolk mixture.
Deviled Eggs w ith Greens: Add l 3/) oz/50 g blanched and
pureed spinach, watercress, sorrel, lettuce, or other
greens to the yolk mixture.
Deviled Eggs w ith Cheese: Add Va o z /2 1 g grated hard
cheese, or 2 oz/57 g s o ft cheese to the yolk mixture.
866
Pickled Eggs
Poached Eggs
Makes10servings
Makes10servings
10 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard
2 ts p /6 g cornstarch
2 f I o z/6 0 mL distilled white vinegar
20 eggs
2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric or Curry
Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 . Combine the water, salt, and vinegar in a deep sautoir or rondeau and bring it to a bare simmer (160
to i8oF/7i to 82C).
1 . Place the eggs in a stainless-steel bowl or plastic stor

age container.
2 . Dilute the mustard and cornstarch in i tbsp/15 mL

cold water in a small saucepan. Add the vinegar,
egg carefully into the poaching water. Cook until the

whites are set and opaque, 3 to 5 minutes.
3 . Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted
sugar, and turmeric. Bring the mixture to a boil over
spoon, blot them on paper towels, and trim the
medium heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
edges, if desired. The eggs are ready to serve now on
3 . Pour the mixture over the eggs. Cool the eggs and
pickling solution to room temperature, then cover
and refrigerate overnight. The eggs are ready to serve
at this point.
Red Pickled Eggs: Replace 8 flo z /2 4 0 m L o f the vinegar
w ith beet juice.
868
2 . Break each egg into a clean cup, and then slide the
heated plates, or may be rapidly chilled and refriger

(T>
OQ
Poached Eggs Mornay

Makes 10 servings
20 toast rounds or ovals
Poached Eggs with

Corned Beef Plash
Makes 10 servings

2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil or bacon fat
20 Poached Eggs (recipe precedes)
$
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C/3
8 o z/2 2 7 g large-dice onions

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mornay Sauce (page 295), warm
5 o z/1 4 2 g large-dice parsnips
3 o z/8 5 g grated Gruyere
3 o z/8 5 g large-dice carrots
1 . Brush the toast with butter and top with the poached
eggs. Coat with the sauce and sprinkle with cheese.
2 . Brown lightly under a broiler or salamander and

serve immediately.
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g red-skin potatoes, peeled if desired

2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked corned beef, cut into l-in /3 -c m dice
3 tb s p /4 5 mL tomato puree
Salt, as needed
Poached Eggs, F a rm e r-S ty le : Top each piece o f toast
w ith 1 peeled tom ato slice, 1 boiled ham slice, creamed

mushrooms, and a poached egg. Omit the Mornay sauce
and the cheese.
Poached Eggs w ith M ushroom s: Replace the toast with
ta rtle t shells. Fill w ith creamed mushrooms, top w ith a

poached egg. Omit the Mornay sauce and the cheese,
and coat w ith Flollandaise Sauce (page 298).
10 Poached Eggs (recipe precedes)

Hollandaise Sauce (page 298), as needed
1 . Heat a roasting pan over medium heat. Pour in 2

tbsp/30 mL of the oil, add the onions, and sweat
until they are soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the parsnips,
carrots, potatoes, and corned beef and cover with
Poached Eggs M assena: Replace the toa st w ith cooked
fresh artichoke bottom s. Omit the Mornay sauce and the

cheese. Fill w ith Bearnaise Sauce (page 297), top w ith a
poached egg, coat w ith Tomato Sauce (page 295), and
sprinkle w ith chopped parsley.
foil.
2 . Place the pan in a 375F/i9iC oven and roast for

about 1 hour. Remove the foil, stir in the tomato
puree, and return the pan to the oven uncovered.
Cook until the tomato puree has browned, about 15
minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cool slightly.
3 . Grind the mixture through a medium plate of a meat

grinder. Form into 10 patties (2 to 3 oz/57 to 85 g
each) by hand or using a circular mold. Refrigerate
until service.
4 . Heat the remaining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a heavy saute

pan or on a griddle. Cook the patties until crisp on
each side and hot in the center. Work in batches if
necessary.
5 . Top each of the patties with a poached egg and Hol

landaise and serve immediately.
869
fD
O S
Eggs Benedict
Fried Eggs
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
0>
n
20 Poached Eggs (page 868)
20 eggs
10 English muffins, split, toasted, and buttered
21/2 o z /7 0 g clarified or whole

butter, as needed for frying
20 slices Canadian bacon, heated

20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298), warm
^
^
Salt, as needed
1 . If the eggs have been poached in advance, reheat

them in simmering water until warmed through.
1 . Break the eggs into clean cups (1 egg per cup).
Blot on toweling and shape if necessary.
2 . For each serving, heat 1V2 tsp/4 g butter in a small
2 . Top each English muffin half with a slice of Cana

dian bacon and a poached egg.
3 . Ladle i to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL hollandaise over each

egg-
nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Slide 2 eggs

into the pan and cook until the egg whites have set.
3 . Tilt the pan, allowing the fat to collect at the side of

the pan, and baste the eggs with the fat as they cook.
4 . Season the eggs with salt and pepper and serve at

once on heated plates.
Eggs Florentine: Replace each slice o f Canadian bacon w ith

2 oz/57 g sauteed spinach.
Poached Eggs, Am erican-Style: Replace each slice of
Canadian bacon w ith 1 sauteed slice peeled tom ato and
replace the hollandaise w ith Cheddar Cheese Sauce
(page 295). Garnish w ith chopped cooked bacon and
Eggs Over Easy, Medium, or Hard: Turn the eggs over near
the end o f th e ir cooking tim e w ith a spatula and cook
them on the second side until done as desired, 20 to
30 seconds fo r over easy, 1 minute fo r over medium, 2
minutes fo r over hard.
parsley.
Poached Eggs with Chicken Liver Chasseur: Replace each
slice o f Canadian bacon w ith sauteed chicken livers and
replace the hollandaise w ith Chasseur Sauce (page 871).
Poached Eggs with Smoked Salmon: Replace the English
m uffin w ith a toasted bagel and replace each slice o f
Canadian bacon w ith 1 slice smoked salmon. Garnish
w ith minced chives.
c h a p te r 26 C O O KING EGGS
871
Scrambled Eggs
Makes 10 servings
30 eggs
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water or milk (optional)
2 'A fI o z/7 5 mL clarified butter or oil
1 . For each portion, beat 3 eggs well and season with

salt and pepper. Add liquid (about 1 tablespoon), if
Scram bled Eggs w ith B ra tw u rs t: For each portion, top 2

sauteed slices peeled tom ato w ith the scrambled eggs
and 1 oz/2 8 g sliced cooked bratwurst.
Scram bled Eggs G ratine: For each portion, top the
scrambled eggs w ith Mornay Sauce (page 295), sprinkle
w ith grated Gruyere, and brown lightly under a broiler or
salamander.
Scram bled Eggs, G reek-S tyle : For each portion, slice 1
Japanese eggplant lengthwise into '/ 2-in /l-c m slices,
season w ith salt, and saute in oil. Saute 1 oz/2 8 g
tom ato concasse w ith garlic, salt, and pepper to taste.
Spoon the scrambled eggs on top o f the eggplant slices
and top the eggs w ith the tom ato concasse.
using.
2.. Heat a small nonstick saute pan over medium heat

and add butter, tilting the pan to coat the entire sur
face. The pan should be hot, but not smoking.
3 . Pour the egg mixture into the pan and cook over low
Plain Rolled Omelet

Makes 10 servings
heat, stirring frequently with the back of a fork or a

wooden spoon, until the eggs are soft and creamy.
30 eggs
Remove the eggs from the heat when fully cooked
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
but still moist.
4 . Serve at once on a heated plate.

Scram bled Egg W hites: S ubstitute 60 f I o z/1 .8 0 L e g g
whites fo r the whole eggs and om it the optional liquid.
For each serving, beat 6 fl o z/1 80 mL egg whites well
and season w ith salt and pepper. Heat a small nonstick
saute pan over medium heat and add the butter.
(Alternatively, use a light coating o f cooking spray, as
many contem porary high-protein diets call fo r little to
no fat.) Pour the egg m ixture into the pan. Use a rubber
spatula or a wooden spoon to gently pull the egg whites
into the center o f the pan, being careful not to break
the curds. Cook until the egg whites are s o ft and flu ffy .
Break the egg whites into curds at the end o f cooking.
Scram bled Eggs w ith Cheese: For each portion, add
V2 o z /1 4 g grated Gruyere or Cheddar to the eggs. If

desired, s tir V/ 2 tsp/7.50 mL cream into the eggs just
before removing them from the heat.

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water, stock, milk, or cream (optional)
2 V i fI o z/7 5 mL clarified butter or oil, or as needed
1 . For each portion, beat 3 eggs well and season with

salt and pepper. Add 1 tablespoon liquid, if using.
2 . Heat a nonstick omelet pan over high heat and add

the butter, tilting the pan to coat the entire surface.
3 . Pour the egg mixture into the pan and scramble it

with the back of a fork, heatproof rubber spatula,
or wooden spoon. Move the pan and utensil at the
same time until the egg mixture has coagulated
slightly. Smooth the eggs into an even layer.
4 . Let the eggs finish cooking without stirring.

5 . Tilt the pan and slide a fork or spoon around the
lip of the pan under the omelet, to be sure it is not
Scram bled Eggs, S w edish-S tyle: For each portion, add 1

oz/2 8 g chopped smoked salmon to the eggs. Garnish
w ith 1 tsp /1 g minced chives.
Scram bled Eggs, H u n te r-S tyle : For each portion, add V a
o z /2 1 g cooked diced bacon and V2 tsp/0.50 g minced
chives to the eggs. Prior to service, spoon 3 oz/85 g
sauteed sliced mushrooms on top of the scrambled
eggs.
BR E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
sticking. Slide the omelet to the front of the pan and

use a fork or a wooden spoon to fold it inside to the
center.
6 . Turn the pan upside down, rolling the omelet onto
the plate. The finished omelet should be oval.
NOTES: Options fo r fillin g an omelet: A precooked fillin g
QTQ
may be added to the eggs a fte r they have been smoothed
mL sour cream, creme fraTche, or yogurt and 2 oz/57 g
into an even layer and before the om elet is rolled.
cooked shrimp, smoked salmon, lobster, or other cooked
Alternatively, the rolled omelet can be s lit open at the
and/or smoked fish, caviar, or seafood.
top, and a precooked, heated fillin g or sauce can be

spooned into the pocket.
To give the om elet additional sheen, brush the surface
lightly w ith butter.
S h e llfish O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 3 or 4 oysters,

clams, or mussels th a t have been steamed b rie fly in
b u tte r w ith wine and shallots.
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W estern O m elet: Fill each omelet w ith 1 oz/2 8 g each

sauteed diced ham, red and green peppers, and onions.
Add grated Monterey Jack or Cheddar, if desired.
Plain Rolled Egg W hite O m elet: S ubstitute 60 f I oz/1.80

L egg whites fo r the whole eggs and om it the optional
liquid. For each serving, beat 6 f I o z/1 80 mL egg
whites well and season w ith salt and pepper. Heat
an om elet pan over medium heat and add the butter.
(Alternatively, use a light coating o f cooking spray, as
many contem porary high-protein diets call fo r little to
Spanish O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 oz/5 7g tom ato

concasse or sauce and 1 o z/2 8 g each sauteed diced
onions and green peppers.
Jelly O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 to 3 tb sp /3 0 to 45 mL
jelly, chutney, or other preserved fruits.
no fat.) Pour the egg m ixture into the pan. Use a rubber
spatula or a wooden spoon to gently pull the egg whites
into the center o f the pan, being careful not to break the
curds. Smooth the egg whites into an even layer and let
them finish cooking w ith ou t stirring. Finish as you would
a plain omelet.
Farmer-Style Omelet
Makes 10 servings
Cheese O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith V2 o z /1 4 g g ra te d or

diced cheese such as Gruyere or Cheddar.
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced bacon or

Cheese and V egetable O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith any

com bination o f cheese and vegetables in a sim ilar flavor
profile, such as goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes,
Gorgonzola and sauteed spinach or mushrooms, cream
cheese and olives, or Gruyere and sauteed leeks.
30 eggs
M ea t and Cheese O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 1 oz/2 8 g

diced cooked meat (turkey, ham, or sausage) and 1 oz/
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced cooked potato
2 8 g g ra te d cheese.
Herb O m elet: Before rolling, sprinkle each omelet with
2 tsp /2 g fin e ly chopped herbs such as parsley, thyme,
chervil, tarragon, basil, and oregano. Alternatively, the
herbs can be added to the eggs before cooking.
Tom ato O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 f l oz/6 0 mL
relatively thick Tomato Coulis (page 296).
O m elet F lore ntin e: Fill each omelet w ith V/ 2 oz/43 g
sauteed spinach.
O m elet M arcel: Fill each omelet w ith 3 oz/8 5gsa utee d
sliced mushrooms and 1 oz/2 8 g sauteed sliced ham.
Garnish w ith minced chives.
O m elet Opera: Fill each om elet w ith 2 oz/5 7g lightly
sauteed chicken livers, deglazed w ith Madeira Sauce
(page 463). Garnish each om elet w ith 3 asparagus tips
and spoon 1 to 2 f l oz/30 to 60 mL Hollandaise Sauce
(page 298) on top.
S eafood O m elet: Fill each omelet w ith 2 to 3 ts p /1 0 to 15
1 . For each serving, render 1 oz/28 g of bacon in a small

cast-iron or nonstick skillet until crisp, or heat 1
tbsp/15 mL of the oil.
2 . Add 1 oz/28 g of the onions and saute over medium

heat, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown,
10 to 12 minutes.
3 . Add 1 oz/28 g of the potatoes and saute until lightly

browned, 5 minutes more.
4 . Meanwhile, beat 3 eggs together with salt and pep

per. Pour them over the ingredients in the skillet and
stir gently.
5 . Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and cook

until the eggs are nearly set.
6 . Remove the cover and place the skillet under a broiler
or salamander to brown the eggs lightly. Serve at
once on a heated plate.
873
Souffleed Cheddar
Omelet
Makes 10 servings
1 . To make the souffle base, heat the butter in a medi

um saucepan over medium heat and stir in the flour.
Cook this roux over low to medium heat for 6 to 8
minutes, stirring frequently, to make a blond roux.
2 . Add the milk, whisking well until the mixture is very

30 eggs
2 V i
ts p /8 g salt
V A ts p /2.50 g ground white pepper

5 o z/1 42 g grated sharp Cheddar
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL clarified butter or oil
smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer over

low heat, stirring constantly, until very thick and
smooth, 15 to 20 minutes.
3 . Blend the yolks with some of the hot base to temper.

Stir the tempered yolks into the base mixture and
continue to simmer over very low heat 3 to 4 min
utes, stirring constantly. Do not allow the mixture to
boil.
1 . For each serving to order, separate 3 eggs. Beat the
4 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain
yolks and season with XU tsp/i g salt and a pinch of
through a sieve, if necessary. The base is ready to use
pepper. Add the cheese and chives to the beaten
now or may be cooled rapidly and stored for later
yolks.
use.
2 . Whisk the egg whites to medium peaks and fold into

the yolks.
3 . Pour the eggs into a preheated, well-oiled small castiron or nonstick skillet. When the sides and bottom
have set, finish the omelet in a 400F/204C oven until
fully set and light golden on top. Serve immediately.
5 . To make the spinach souffles, prepare ten 6-fl oz/

180-mL ramekins by brushing them liberally with
soft butter. Lightly dust the interior of each mold
with grated Parmesan.
6 . For each portion, blend together 2 fl oz/6o mL souf
fle base, 1 oz/28 g spinach, 1 tbsp/30 mL grated Par
mesan, salt, and pepper until the spinach is evenly
distributed.
Spinach Souffle
Makes 10 portions
7 . Whisk 1 egg white for each souffle to soft peaks in

a clean mixing bowl. Fold about one-third of the
beaten white into the base. Stir in the remaining egg
white in one or two additions.
SOUFFLE BASE
2 o z/5 7 g butter
2 V i
oz/71 g all-purpose flour
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL milk
Salt, as needed
15 egg yolks
8 . Spoon the souffle batter into the prepared molds to

within V2 inch/i cm of the rim. Wipe the rim care
fully to remove any batter. Tap the souffles gently on
the counter to settle the batter. Sprinkle the souffle
tops with the remaining Parmesan.
9 . Place the souffles on a sheet pan in a 425F/2i8C

oven and bake undisturbed until puffy and a skewer
inserted in the center comes out relatively clean, 16
to 18 minutes. Serve immediately.
Butter, soft, as needed

3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan, plus as
needed for dusting molds
10 o z/2 8 4 g blanched chopped spinach
Salt, as needed
10 egg whites
BR E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Savory Cheese Souffle: Replace the 10 o z/2 84 g blanched

chopped spinach w ith 3 oz/85 g o f grated Gruyere or
Emmentaler.
O)
Qrq
Artichoke S ouffle
Makes 10 portions
10 globe artichokes
Warm Goat Cheese

Custard
QTQ
Hi
a>
n
i'
Makes 10 servings

6 o z/1 7 0 g cream cheese, room temperature
Salt, as needed
rt>
GO
9 o z/2 5 5 g soft goat cheese, room temperature

13 eggs, separated
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper, plus as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 grated Gruyere
9 eggs
2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch
1 o z/2 8 g minced chives
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, plus as needed
1 . Trim the artichokes and cook in simmering water
40 seedless green grapes
seasoned with lemon juice and salt in a medium

stockpot until tender. When the artichokes are ten
der, drain well and scrape the flesh from the leaves;
discard the chokes and save the bottoms.
2 . Puree the artichoke flesh and bottoms, egg yolks,

Gruyere, milk, and cornstarch in a food processor.
3 . Beat the egg whites to soft peaks in a clean mixing
1 . Combine the cream cheese with 6 oz/170 g of the

goat cheese (reserve the remainder for garnish) in a
food processor. Season with the pepper and process
until very smooth.
2 . Add the eggs, 8 fl oz/240 mL of the cream, half of

the chives, and the salt. Pulse the processor on and
off until the ingredients are just blended. Divide the
bowl and fold into the artichoke mixture in three
mixture among 10 buttered 2-fl oz/6o-mL timbale
additions. Pour the mixture into 10 greased 6-fl oz/
molds and cover the molds with buttered parchment
180-mL souffle ramekins.
paper.
4 . Bake in a 400F/204C oven until done, about 20

minutes. Serve at once.
3 . Place the timbale molds in a bain-marie and bake in

a 325F/i63C oven until a knife inserted near the
center of a timbale comes away clean.
4 . Reduce the remaining cream by half and season with

salt and pepper to taste. Add the remaining chives
and the grapes to the cream immediately before
service.
5 . Unmold the timbales and coat with the sauce. Gar

nish with the reserved goat cheese and serve
immediately.
NOTE: Replace the goat cheese w ith another s o ft cheese
such as Boursin, Brillat-Savarin, Camembert, or Brie.
ch a p te r 26 C O O KING EGGS
875
Quiche Lorraine
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced slab bacon
1 o z/2 8 g butter or oil
4 eggs
1 ts p /3 g salt
V* ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper

Pinch ground nutmeg
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated Emmentaler
9 o z/2 5 5 g Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 ) (page 1070),
rolled, f it into a 9-in /23-cm quiche pan, blind baked
1 . In a medium saute pan, render the bacon in the but

ter until browned. Remove the bacon with a slotted
spoon and drain. Discard the rendered fat or save for
another use.
2 . Whisk together the cream, milk, and eggs. Season

with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
3 . Scatter the bacon and cheese evenly over the crust.

Add the custard mixture gradually, stirring it gently
with the back of a fork to distribute the filling ingre
dients evenly.
4 . Set the quiche pan on a sheet pan and bake in a

350F/i77C oven until a knife blade inserted in the
center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Serve hot
or at room temperature.
NOTES: Quiche may also be baked w ithout a pastry crust.
Butter a shallow casserole or baking dish. Sprinkle it
with grated Parmesan, if desired. Spread the fillin g
ingredients over the casserole bottom . Pour the custard
on top. Bake in a bain-marie until a knife inserted near
the center comes out clean, about 1 hour.
Quiche may also be baked in ta rtle t shells, tim bale
molds, or custard cups.
Spinach Quiche: Substitute 1 lb /4 54 g spinach, blanched,

squeezed dry, and coarsely chopped, fo r all or part of
the bacon.
Tomato and Leek Quiche: S ubstitute 10 o z /2 8 4 g tom ato

concasse and 8 oz/227 g sauteed chopped leeks fo r the
bacon: For the leeks, saute the white and light green
parts only in b u tte r until translucent. Add the tom ato
concasse and saute until the liquid evaporates. Add
2 tb s p / 6 g minced tarragon or basil.

Caramelized Onion Quiche: Substitute caramelized onions
fo r all or part o f the bacon: For 6 oz/170 g caramelized
onions, cook 10 o z /2 8 4 g sliced onions in 2 tb sp /3 0 mL
olive oil over medium-low heat until golden brown and
soft, about 15 minutes. Substitute Provolone fo r the
Emmentaler.
Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche: Substitute 4 o z/1 1 3 g
diced smoked salmon fo r the bacon and om it the firs t
step. S ubstitute 2 oz/57 g cream cheese, cut or broken
into small pieces, fo r the Emmentaler. Add 2 tbsp /6 g
chopped dill and 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives.
Broccoli and Cheddar Quiche: Substitute 5 oz/142 g
broccoli flore ts, sauteed in olive oil until tender, fo r
all or part o f the bacon. S ubstitute Cheddar fo r the
Emmentaler.
French Toast
Makes 10 servings
Z . Combine the milk, eggs, sugar, salt, and cinnamon
and nutmeg, if using. Mix into a smooth batter. Re

frigerate until needed.
30 Challah (page 1044) slices, c u t'/i

to Vi in /6 mm to 1 cm thick
1 q t/9 6 0 m L m ilk
8 eggs
3 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and grease

with Vz to i oz/141 28 g butter, if using, or use a
nonstick pan over medium heat.
4 . Dip 6 pieces of bread into the batter, coating the
2 o z/5 7 g sugar
slices evenly. Fry the slices on one side until evenly
Pinch salt
browned; turn and brown the other side. Repeat the
Pinch ground cinnamon (optional)

Pinch ground nutmeg (optional)
process for the remaining bread. Keep warm in a

very low oven while cooking the remaining batches.
5 . Serve the French toast at once on heated plates.
5 to 10 o z/1 4 2 to 2 8 4 g butter (optional)

NOTE: Serve w ith b u tte r and maple syrup or honey.
1 . Dry the challah slices on sheet pans overnight or in a

2oocF/93C oven for l hour.
Garnishing options include confectioners' sugar,

cinnamon sugar, toasted nuts, and/or fresh or dried fruit.
salad dressings
and salads
Salads appear on the menu in so many d ifferent guises today that it is easy
to imagine that they were invented by this generation of chefs. In fact,
fresh concoctions of seasoned herbs and lettuces have been relished in
every part of the world from the beginning of recorded culinary history.
CHAPTER 27
V in a ig r e t t e s
in
m a n y
are
o th er
t h o u g h t
w a ys
as
of
w e l l
m a in l y
as
d r e s s in g s
for
green
s a l a d s
, but they
are
used
: a s m a r in a d e s f o r g r il l e d or b r o il e d f o o d s ; to d r e s s s a l a d s
M A D E F R O M PASTAS, G R A IN S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D BE A N S; AS DIPS; AS S A U C E S S E R V E D W IT H H O T OR C O LD
E N T R E E S A N D A P P E T IZ E R S ; B R U S H E D ON S A N D W IC H E S .
vinaigrette
A vinaigrette is a tem porary emulsion made by blending oil, acid, and other ingredients un
til they form a homogeneous sauce. The sauce remains an emulsion for a only a short time,
quickly separating back into oil and vinegar. Both oils and vinegars can be flavored. To add
flavor and help stabilize the sauce, an emulsifier is sometimes included.
A standard vinaigrette ratio of three parts oil to one part acid works well as a starting
point, but the vinaigrette needs to be tasted and evaluated whenever a change is made in
the type of oil, acid, or specific flavoring ingredients.
Select the oil with an eye to both its flavor and cost. Oils used in salad dressings can
be subtle or intensely flavored. Oils may serve simply to carry the other flavors in the vin
aigrette, or they may have readily identifiable flavors of their own. Very strongly flavored
oils are often blended with less intense oils to produce a balanced flavor in the finished
sauce.
The choice of acid ranges widely as well, from vinegar, to fru it juice, to malted barley, to
similar acidic liquids. Every vinegar has a d iffe ren t level of tartness or acidity.
Additional vinaigrette ingredients include emulsifiers (egg yolks, mustard, roasted
garlic, fru it or vegetable purees, or glace de viande) and such seasonings as salt, pepper,
herbs, and spices. The challenge of making a good vinaigrette ties in achieving balance, a
point at which the acidity of the vinegar or juice is tem pered but not dominated by the rich
ness of the oil.
Equipment needs for making vinaigrettes are minimal: measuring spoons or cups, a
bowl, and a whisk or a blender, immersion blender, food processor, or electric mixer.
880
basic formula
I*
GTQ
Vinaigrette
16 fl oz/480 mL vinegar
(2 qt/1.92 L)
I V 2 qt/1.44 L oil
CD
r-t
c+
CD
1 . Combine the vinegar and
seasonings.
2. Slowly whisk in the oil until
a homogeneous m ixture is
formed.
3. Serve the dressing
im m ediately or store it.

4. Before dressing the salad,
thoroughly recombine all

the vinaigrette ingredients.
Good-quaiity oils and vinegars
can be infused with spices,
aromatics, herbs, and fruits or vegetables. They can be used in vinaigrettes

and other dressings for a special effect. See Flavored Oils and Vinegars, page
883, for instructions on these infusions.
CHEF'S NOTES ON VINAIGRETTES

The challenge to making a good vinaigrette
starting point, but the flavor of a vinai
is to achieve a balance between the acid
grette should be evaluated and adjusted.
and the oil, so that the flavor of the acid
The acidity of citrus and vinegars vary
comes through and is not dominated by
widely depending on the season or the
the oil.
The standard vinaigrette ratio is three
just the amount of oil.
manufacturer, making it necessary to ad
parts oil to one part acid. This is a good
c h a p te r 27 S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
881
1. combine the vinegar
w ith th e em ul
s ifie r and seasoning in g re d ie n ts f ir s t.

A dd in g th e m ustard , salt, pepper, herbs, or o th e r in
g re d ie n ts to th e vin eg ar is the e a sie st w ay to be sure they
are evenly dispe rsed th ro u g h o u t th e sauce f o r an even
fla v o r b e fo re adding th e oil.
2. add the oil gradually w hile w h iskin g
c o n s ta n tly to cre a te a th ick, e m u ls ifie d v in a ig re tte .
W hisk in th e oil, o r to cre a te a m ore sta b le v in a ig re tte ,
use a blender, im m e rsion blender, e le c tric m ixe r w ith a
w ire whip, o r fo o d processor. V in a ig re tte s made by m a
chine hold th e ir em ulsion longer than tho se th a t are sim
ply w hisked to g e th e r.
Crum bled cheese, fre s h o r d rie d fr u its and ve g e ta
bles, or o th e r garnishes can be added, if desired. As the
v in a ig re tte sits, it w ill begin to separate. W hisk or s tir the
sauce b e fo re each use to reco m bin e the oil and vinegar.
Cover and re frig e ra te v in a ig re tte s when n o t in use. For
o p tim u m fla vo r, make v in a ig re tte s in q u a n titie s th a t w ill
la st no lo ng er than th re e days.
A w e ll-m a de v in a ig re tte should be n e ith e r to o sour
nor to o o ily and th e co n siste n cy o f th e sauce such th a t
i t clings nicely to th e greens w ith o u t lo okin g o r fe e lin g
greasy. The b e st w ay to check is to to s s som e o f th e salad
w ith th e v in a ig re tte and ta s te th e sauce on the salad.
882
<
I
2
FLAVORED OILS AND VINEGARS
Good-quality oils and vinegars can be
vinegar and transfer to a storage container.
Qrq
infused with spices, aromatics, herbs,
Leave the oil or vinegar as is and use it like
CD
and fruits or vegetables. Flavored oils and
a puree, or strain it to remove the fibers
vinegars work well as condiments, or as
and pulp.
a drizzle or droplets on a plated dish to
0)
Combine room-temperature oils or vinegars
add a bit of intense flavor and color. They
with ground spices and transfer them to a
are also excellent to use as dressings for
storage container. Let the mixture sit until
vegetables, pastas, grains, or fruits. And
the spices have settled in the bottom of the
of course, they cam be used in vinaigrettes
container and the vinegar or oil is clear.
and other dressings for a special effect.

To flavor oils and vinegars, use one of
the following methods:
Heat the oil or vinegar very gently over low
heat. The flavoring ingredients, such as
citrus zest or garlic, may be added to the
oil or vinegar as it warms. Let the oil or
vinegar steep off the heat with the flavoring
ingredients until cool, then pour into stor
age bottles or containers.
Refrigerate the flavored oil or vinegar to

rest for at least 3 hours and up to 36 hours.
The time will vary according to the inten
sity of the flavoring ingredients and the
intended use. Taste the oil or vinegar occa
sionally and, if necessary, strain or decant
it into a clean bottle.
Strain the vinegar or oil for a clearer
final product, or leave the aromatics in for
a more intense flavor. Add fresh aromat
Heat the oil or vinegar without any added
ics after the oil or vinegar has steeped for
flavorings, then pour it over the flavoring
several days to give am even more intense
ingredients and cool. Pour the infused oil
flavor, if desired.
or vinegar into storage containers.
Puree raw, blanched or fully cooked veg
NOTE: Fresh or raw ingredients added

to an oil or vinegar increase the risk of
etables, herbs, or fruits. Bring the puree to
food-borne illness. Keep scratch-made ver
a simmer, reducing it if necessary to con
sions refrigerated. Use within a few days
centrate flavors. Add the puree to the oil or
for the best flavor and color.
883
M a y o n n a i s e , b e c a u s e o f it s g r e a t v e r s a t i l i t y , is o f t e n i n c l u d e d in t h e l i s t o f t h e b a s ic o r
" g r a n d " S A U C E S P R E P A R E D I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K I T C H E N . M A Y O N N A I S E IS A C O L D S A U C E M A D E BY
C O M B I N I N G EGG Y O L K S W I T H O I L T O F O R M A S T A B L E E M U L S I O N .
mayonnaise
Unlike vinaigrette, this sauce does not break as it sits. Mayonnaise and sauces made with
mayonnaise as a base can be used to dress salads or as a dip or spread. Among the famous
mayonnaise-based sauces are Remoulade Sauce (page 520), Green Mayonnaise (page
903), A'foli (garlic mayonnaise; page 904), and Tartar Sauce (page 903).
Classic recipes for mayonnaise call fo r 6 to 8 fl o z /1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL of oil to each egg
yolk. Egg yolks provide both the liquid, which holds the oil droplets in suspension, and an
em ulsifier known as lecithin. To avoid any possible food-borne illnesses (such as those
caused by S alm on ella or E. coli), professional chefs should use pasteurized egg yolks.
Since mayonnaise is often intended as a base sauce to be used for a variety of pur
poses, it is usually best to choose an oil th at does not have a pronounced flavor o f its own.
There are exceptions to this general rule, however. For example, a mayonnaise made with
extra-virgin olive oil or a nut oil would be appropriate to serve as a dip with a p latter of
grilled vegetables or crudites.
A small amount of mustard is often called for in mayonnaise. Though prepared mustard
is used as an em ulsifier in some cold sauces and vinaigrettes, its primary function in a may
onnaise is flavor. Various acids may also be used to prepare a mayonnaise, including lemon
juice or wine or cider vinegars. The acid, along with water, flavors the sauce as well as pro
vides additional moisture fo r the emulsification. Using distilled white vinegar also helps to
keep the mayonnaise white. Additional flavoring ingredients, such as garlic or herbs, may
also be needed as indicated by specific recipe and/or desired use.
Equipment needs fo r making mayonnaise are minimal: measuring spoons or cups, a
bowl, and a whisk are appropriate for small quantities. For large batches, use a blender,
food processor, or electric mixer. Mayonnaise sauces should be held in very clean storage
containers.
884
mayonnaise
Q basic formula
Mayonnaise
(26 fl oz/780 mL [3'A cups])
2 tbsp to 2 fl oz/30 to 60 mL lemon

juice, vinegar, or a combination
3 fl oz/90 mL pasteurized
2 tsp/4 g dry mustard (optional)
2tb sp /30m L w ater

egg yolks (3 large)

24 fl oz/720 mL oil
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Beat the egg yolks with a
small amount o f vinegar
and/or lemon and dry
mustard until they are
frothy.
2. Gradually incorporate the
oil, beating constantly.

3. Add a small amount of
ex p ert tips
Some are added during the preparation of the mayonnaise to infuse flavors
and assist in the creation of the emulsion, while others can be added at the end
of the preparation:
IN FU S E D O ILS / PR EPARED M U S TA R D / FRESH HERBS / SPIC E S
water as the mayonnaise

begins to s tiffe n .
4. Add any additional
seasonings or flavoring
ingredients such as lemon
juice, W orcestershire
sauce, or hot sauce.
5. Serve the dressing at
once or store it under

refrigeration.
885
1. blend the yolks with a bit of lemon juice

or vinegar and the dry mustard. Whisking the yolks with
vinegar or lemon juice prepares them to combine with the
oil to form a good thick mayonnaise. Whisk the yolks and
the chosen acid together to loosen the eggs.
2. pour the oil into the egg yolks
while whisking constantly.
Add the oil a little at a time, whisking it in completely.
S ta rt pouring slowly and gradually increase the amount of
oil. The oil must be whipped into the egg yolks so th at it
is broken up into very fine droplets. Adding the oil slowly
allows a good emulsion to begin to form. If the oil is added
too quickly, the droplets will be too large to emulsify
properly, and the sauce will appear broken. Once onequarter to one-third of the oil has been properly blended
into the egg mixture, start to increase the speed at which
the oil is added.
When preparing mayonnaise in a machine, add the oil
in a thin stream as the machine runs. It is still true th at the
oil should be added more slowly at the beginning than at
the end.
Adjust the thickness and flavor of the sauce by add
ing a bit more acid or w ater when incorporating the oil.
The more oil th at is added to the yolks, the thicker the
sauce will become. Add more lemon juice, vinegar, or a
little w ater when the mayonnaise becomes very thick. If
this step is neglected, the sauce will become too thick to
absorb any more oil and can separate. Add any additional
flavoring or garnish ingredients at the point indicated in
the recipe.
886
mayonnaise
3. by adding flavoring or garnish in

gredients, a basic mayonnaise can be used to produce a
diffe ren t sauce. AYoli, a garlic-flavored mayonnaise, calls
for a good quantity of garlic to be included in the earli
est stages of mixing. However, other ingredients may be
blended into the sauce once the oil is incorporated to cre
ate sauces such as Remoulade Sauce (page 5 2 0) or Green
Goddess Dressing (page 901).
A properly made mayonnaise has a mild and balanced
flavor, w ithout any predominance of acidic or oily flavors.
It is thick, creamy, and completely homogeneous in te x
ture and appearance. The color is white or slightly o ffwhite, not greenish or yellow.
Keep mayonnaise refrigerated at all times once it is
prepared. Transfer it to a storage container, cover it care
fully, and label it with a date. Before using mayonnaise
th at has been stored, stir it gently and check the season
ing carefully. If the sauce needs to be thinned, add a bit of
water.
FIXING A BROKEN MAYONNAISE

Mayonnaise and similarly prepared dress
A broken mayonnaise can be saved by
ings may break for a number of reasons:
combining 2 tbsp/30 mL of pasteurized
The oil was added too rapidly for the egg

yolk to absorb it.
The sauce was allowed to become too
thick.
egg yolk with 1 tsp/5 mL water and beating

the mixture until foamy. Gradually add the
broken mayonnaise into the diluted yolk,
whisking constantly, until the mayonnaise
regains a smooth, creamy appearance.
The sauce became either too cold or too

warm as it was being prepared.
887
In
IT S M O S T B A S I C F O R M , A G R E E N S A L A D ( S O M E T I M E S C A L L E D A T O S S E D S A L A D , M I X E D S A L A D , OR
GARDEN s a l a d )
IS M A D E O F O N E O R M O R E T E N D E R G R E E N S T O S S E D W I T H A D R E S S I N G . G A R N I S H E S
SU C H AS O T H E R V E G E T A B L E S , C R O U T O N S , A N D C H E E S E S AR E O F T E N I N C L U D E D AS W E L L . T h e SA LA D 'S
C H A R A C T E R IS D E T E R M I N E D B Y T H E G R E E N S S E L E C T E D .
G R E E N S A R E O F T E N G R O U P E D A C C O R D I N G TO
TH E IR FLAVO RS A N d / o r TE X TU R E S .
green salads
Commercially prepared salad blends are available today, but chefs can also create their
own by combining lettuces from within one group or by selecting from among two or more
groups. For more information on specific salad green varieties, see Lettuce, page 154, and
B itter Salad Greens, page 156.
Separate the lettuce or other heading greens into leaves. Loose heads and bunching
greens will separate into individual leaves easily. Trim the coarse ribs or stem ends away if
necessary. To remove the core from heading lettuce, use a paring knife to cut out the core.
Greens and herbs used for salads are often quite sandy and gritty, and nothing is worse
than a g ritty salad. All greens, including prepackaged salad mixes, must be washed before
serving. Removing all traces of dirt from them is a very im portant part of the mise en place
for the pantry and hot line. Wash greens thoroughly in plenty of cool w ater to remove all
traces of dirt or sand.
Hydroponically raised greens, prepared as mesclun mixes and prerinsed, and "triple
washed" bagged spinach, may need only a quick plunge or rinse with coot w ater to refresh
them. Other leafy greens should be cleaned by plunging them in a sink filled with cool
water. L ift them from the water, drain the sink, and repeat until there are no signs of grit
remaining in the water. Change the w ater as often as necessary until absolutely no traces
of dirt, grit, or sand are visible in the rinsing water.
Dry the greens completely. Salad dressings cling best to well-dried greens. In addition,
carefully dried greens last in storage longer. A key piece of equipment in salad making is
the spinner. This tool, which comes in both hand-operated and large-scale electric ver
sions, uses centrifugal force to spin the w ater away from the greens so th at they have a
b etter flavor and dressing clings evenly to them. Use either a large-scale electric spinner
for volume salad making or a hand basket for smaller batches. Clean and sanitize the spin
ner carefully a fte r each use. If a spinner is not available, drain the greens well, spread them
out in thin layers on sheet pans and air-dry inside a refrigerator.
Store cleaned greens in tubs or other containers. Once greens are cleaned and dried,
keep them refrigerated until you are ready to dress and serve them. Use cleaned salad
greens within a day or two. Do not stack cleaned salad greens too deep; their own weight
could bruise the leaves.
Cut or tear the lettuce into bite-size pieces. Diners should never be forced to use a
knife to cut the lettuce. Traditional salad-making manuals have always called fo r lettuces
to be torn rather than cut to avoid discoloring, bruising, or crushing the leaves. The choice
to either cut or tea r lettuce is primarily a m atter of personal style and preference. With
today's high-carbon stainless-steel knives, discoloration is not a problem. As long as the
blade is properly sharpened and a good cutting technique is used, the leaves will be sliced
rather than crushed or bruised.
888
gredients, because the dressing serves to pull all the flavors together. Use delicate dress
ings with delicately flavored greens and more robust dressings with more strongly flavored
greens. Consider the weight and coating capabilities of different dressings as well. Vinai
grettes coat lightly but evenly. Emulsified vinaigrette dressings and light mayonnaise dress
ings, which are thicker than vinaigrettes, tend to coat the ingredients more heavily.
Choose garnishes according to the season and your desired presentation. Either toss
green salads
Garnish and dress the salad. The dressing's flavor should be appropriate to the salad in
these ingredients with the greens as they are being dressed or marinate them separately
in a little vinaigrette and use them to top or place around the salad.
To dress a salad:
Place the greens (about 3 o z /8 5 g or 6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL per serving) in a bowl.
Ladle a portion of salad dressing over them (1 to 2 fl o z /3 0 to 60 mL per serving).
Toss the salad using tongs, spoons, or, if appropriate, gloved hands.
Be sure each piece of lettuce is coated completely but lightly, with just enough dress
ing fo r the greens; if the dressing pools on the plate, there is too much.
CROUTONS
Croutons are often used as a garnish
To toast croutons in the oven or under a
for salads as well as soups and stews.
broiler or salamander, spread them in a
Croustades, crostini, rusks, and bruschetta
single layer on a sheet pan. Turn them
are all types of croutons. Some are cut into
from time to time to toast them evenly and
slices, others into cubes or disks. Some are
check frequently to avoid scorching.
toasted, some deep fried, some grilled, and
To panfry croutons, add the bread to hot
some broiled. (Large croutons, made to act
clarified butter or oil in a saute pan, fry
as the base for canapes, hors doeuvre, and
until evenly browned, and drain well on
roasted or grilled meats, reflect medieval
paper towels.
European practices when plates were actu

ally slabs of bread intended for consump
Add herbs or grated cheese while still hot.
tion once they had been well dampened
Good croutons are light in color, relatively
with juices and sauces from the meal.)
greaseless, and well seasoned with a crisp,
To make croutons:
crunchy texture throughout.
Cut bread (crusts removed or not) into the

desired size. Rub, spray, or toss the cubes
or slices lightly with oil or clarified butter,
if desired. Add salt and pepper.
889
F r u it s h a v e a v a r ie t y
OTHERS
of
c h a r a c t e r is t ic s
LO SE Q .U A L IT Y V E R Y
B A N A N A S , CAN
, m a k in g s o m e
RA PIDLY . F r UITS TH A T T U R N
BE T R E A T E D W I T H
f r u it
sa la d s
BROWN, SUCH
C I T R U S J U I C E TO K E E P T H E M
FROM
f a ir l y
s tu r d y
w h il e
AS A P PLE S, PEARS, AND
O X ID IZ IN G , AS LONG AS TH E
F L A V O R O F T H E J U I C E D O E S N T C O M P E T E W I T H T H E O T H E R I N G R E D I E N T S IN T H E S A L A D , A N D T H E Y A R E
N O T P R E P A R E D T O O FA R I N A D V A N C E .
fruit salads
Mixed fru it salads th at include highly perishable fruits can be produced fo r volume op
erations by preparing the base from the least perishable fruits. The more perishable items,
such as raspberries, strawberries, or bananas, can then be combined with smaller batches
or individual servings at the last moment, or they can be added as a garnish. Fruits such as
bananas should not be cut and refrigerated but rather added at the last moment.
Fresh herbs such as mint, basil, or lemon thyme may be added to fru it salads as a fla
voring agent and/or garnish. Experiment to determine which herbs work best with the
fruits selected fo r the salad.
To prepare fruit salads, you must learn how to peel and slice or cut a variety of fruits. Be
fore working with any fruit, be sure it is properly rinsed. To avoid cross contamination, clean
and sanitize cutting boards and tools properly. Refrigerate cut fruits until they are served.
APPLES
To prevent discoloration of the cut surfaces of apples, as well as pears, peaches, and ba
nanas, prepare them as needed or, if necessary, toss them in w ater that has been acidulated
with a little citrus juice. Choose a juice with a flavor that complements the fruit's flavor.
There shouldn't be so much acid th at it overwhelms the fruit.
To clean and peel an apple, use the tip o f a paring knife to remove the stem and blossom
ends. Use a paring knife or swivel-bladed peeler to cut away the skin. Peel apples as thin as
possible to avoid trim loss. Once the peel is removed, halve from top to bottom and cut into
quarters. To core the quarters, work from the stem end, angling your cut to the midpoint of
the core, where it is deepest. Make a second cut working from the opposite direction.
To cut very even slices, use a mandoline. Working with a whole peeled apple, make slices
from one side of the apple until just before the core is reached. Turn and repeat on the op
posite side. When the flesh has been removed from the two wide sides, slice the flesh from
the now-narrow sides of the apple.
CITRUS FRUITS
Citrus fruits, including oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit, are used to add flavor, mois
ture, and color to dishes. They are also served as a functional garnish with some foods
fo r instance, a wedge of lemon with broiled fish. Before juicing citrus fruits, allow them
to come to room tem perature, if possible. Roll the fru it under the palm of your hand on a
cutting board or other work surface before juicing to break some of the membranes. This
helps to release more juice. Remember to strain out the seeds and pulp, either by cover
ing the fru it with cheesecloth before squeezing it or by straining it a fte r juicing. There are
numerous special tools to juice citrus fruits, including reamers, extractors, and hand-operated and electric juicers.
890
fruit salads
Zesting citrus
Making citrus supremes
Citrus zest is the outer portion of
Cutting the flesh away from all the connective membranes of the fruit makes
the fruits peel or rind. It is used
citrus supremes, also called sections or segments.
to add color, texture, and flavor to

dishes. The zest includes only the
1 .
skins brightly colored part, which
th e peel o f th e orange. Be c a re fu l to cut aw ay as little fles h as possible.
contains much of the fruits flavorful
A f te r c u ttin g aw ay th e ends o f th e fru it, use a paring kn ife to rem ove
and aromatic volatile oils. It does not
2.
include the underlying white pith,
m em brane th a t divides th e orange segm ents. Have a bowl ready to catch the
which has a bitter taste. You can use
suprem es as you w ork.
To m ake suprem es, use a p aring kn ife to cut along each side o f the
the fine openings on a box grater or a

rasp to make grated zest, or a paring
knife, peeler, or zester for other cuts.
Zest is often blanched before it
is used in a dish to remove any un
pleasant bitter flavor. To blanch zest,
cook it briefly in simmering water,
shock, and drain. Repeat as often
as necessary; generally two to three
blanchings are best. Add sugar to
the blanching water for a sweetened
zest.
891
Mangos
A mango has a flat seed in the center of the flesh. If cut from the stem end to
the pointed end of the mango, the flesh comes away from the pit more easily.
The fruit may be peeled before cutting the flesh from the pit, if desired. The
peel is left on to produce a special decorative cut known as the hedgehog cut.
To dice the mango for pureeing or for a less decorative approach, peel it by
making a series of cuts, removing as little edible fruit as possible. Cut a slice
from the other side of the pit, cutting as close to the pit as possible for the
best yield. Cut the remaining flesh from the two narrow sides, following the
curve of the pit. Cube or slice the mango as desired.
For the hedgehog cut, the mango is not peeled before the flesh is sliced
from the pit. This technique can be used to prepare mangos for salads or
other uses, or it may be used for a decorative presentation on a fruit plate.
1 .
Use a c h e fs kn ife to c a re fu lly slice as close to th e p it as possible to
rem ove th e m o s t flesh. If desired, th e re m a in d er o f th e m ango can be peeled

and th e fles h cut aw ay fro m th e p it in o rd er to im prove th e yield.
2 .
Use th e tip o f a paring kn ife or a u tility kn ife to score th e fles h in a cross-
hatch p a tte rn . This may be done on th e diagonal, as shown here, or using p e r

p endicular cuts to produce cubes. The tip o f th e k n ife should n ot cut through
th e skin.
3.
Turn th e m ango h a lf inside out; it w ill look like a hedgehog. Slice the
cubes aw ay fro m the skin now, or p re s e n t th e fru it as is on a fru it p late.
892
fruit salads
Pineapples
Melons
A pineapple has a thick, spiny skin.
Melons can be peeled before or after
The flesh near the skin has eyes that
cutting. To make the melon more
should be completely removed before
stable as you work, cut a slice from
using the flesh in a salad or other pre
both ends. You may remove the entire
sentations. Slice away the pineapple
rind before halving the melon and
top with a chefs knife, and cut a slice
removing the seeds to streamline pro
from the base of the pineapple.
duction of fruit plates and salads. Or
Use a chefs knife to peel the
you may prefer to leave the rind on.
pineapple. Make the cuts deep

enough to remove the eyes but not
1 .
so deep that a great deal of edible
b o tto m o ff o f the melon, cut th e rind
A fte r c u ttin g th e to p and the
flesh is removed. For even slices or
away. Use a u tility or c h e fs kn ife to
to make neat dice or cubes, slice the
fo llo w th e curve o f th e melon.
pineapple vertically at the desired

thickness until you reach the core
2.
on the first side. Turn the pineapple,
out th e seeds. Be c a re fu l not to gouge
and make slices from the opposite
th e fles h o f th e fru it. The m elon can
side as well as from both ends. Cut
now be m ade into melon balls, cut into
the slices into neat julienne, baton-
slices, or cut into cubes or diced.
net, or dice as desired.
3.
Cut the melon in h alf and scoop
Scoop m elon balls o ut o f the
cleaned melon h a lf using a parisienne

scoop.
ch a p te r 27 S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
893
H e a r t ie r t h a n
green
s a l a d s
, salads
in
t h is
categ o r y
c o n t a in
in g r e d ie n t s
l ik e
p r o t e in s
G R A IN S , A N D O T H E R N U T R IE N T - D E N S E FO O D S T H A T W O U L D M A K E T H E M A M A IN M E N U IT E M , SO T H E Y
C A N BE P R E S E N T E D A S A F U L L M E A L F O R L U N C H O R D I N N E R . W l T H
THE EX C E P TIO N OF CO M PO SED
S A L A D S , T H E S E T Y P E S O F S A L A D S A R E B E S T P R E P A R E D A H E A D , S O T H E Y H A V E S O M E T I M E TO A L L O W
T H E F L A V O R S TO F U L L Y M A R R Y .
warm, vegetable
and composed
salads
WARM SALADS
Warm salad, known in French as salade tiede, is made by tossing the salad ingredients
in a warm dressing, working over medium-to-low heat. The salad should be just warmed
through. Another approach is to use a chilled crisp salad as the bed fo r hot main items such
as grilled meat or fish.
VEGETABLE SALADS
Prepare vegetables fo r this type of salad as required by the specific recipe. Some are sim
ply rinsed and trimmed. Others need to be peeled, seeded, and cut into the appropriate
shape. Some vegetables require an initial blanching to set colors and textures, while others
must be fully cooked.
If the salad is to be served raw, combine the prepared vegetable or vegetables with a
vinaigrette or other dressing and allow them to rest long enough fo r the flavors to marry.
When the vegetable or vegetables are partially or fully cooked, there are two methods for
applying the dressing. In the firs t method, simply drain the vegetables and combine them
with the dressing while they are still warm, for faster flavor absorption. This works well for
root vegetables such as carrots, beets, and parsnips, as well as leeks, onions, and potatoes.
Some vegetables, especially green vegetables like broccoli or green beans, may dis
color if they are combined with an acid in advance; in th at case, refresh the vegetables
before adding the dressing at service. Always be sure to thoroughly drain and blot dry the
vegetables to avoid watering down the dressing.
POTATO SALADS
Potatoes must be cooked completely but not overcooked. High-moisture potatoes hold
their shape a fte r cooking b etter than low-moisture potatoes do.
894
potato salads enjoyed around the world are often dressed with vinaigrette. In some tra
ditional European-style recipes, the dressing may be based on bacon fat, olive oil, stock,
or a combination of these ingredients. The dressing may actually be brought to a simmer
before the potatoes are added for the best finished flavor. Potatoes should be dressed
before they completely cool fo r b etter absorption of the flavors in the dressing.
PASTA AND GRAIN SALADS

Grains and pastas fo r salads should be fully cooked. However, care should be taken to avoid
overcooking because cooked grains and pasta will still be able to absorb some of the liquid
in the dressing and can quickly become soggy.
If a pasta or grain salad is held fo r later service, be especially careful to check for sea
soning before it is served. These salads have a tendency to go fla t as they sit. Salt and
pepper are im portant seasonings, o f course, but others, such as vinegars, herbs, and citrus
juices, can give a brighter flavor.
LEGUME SALADS
Dried beans should be cooked until they are tender to the bite if serving at room tem
perature. If beans are to be served chilled, they should be slightly overcooked to ensure a
creamy texture. The center should be soft and creamy, and it is even possible th at the skins
may break open slightly. If a salad is made of several kinds of dried beans, it is important
th at beans with d ifferen t cooking times be cooked separately to the correct doneness be
fore combining them.
Unlike grains and pastas, which might become too soft as they sit in a dressing, beans
will not soften any further. In fact, the acid in salad dressings will make the beans become
tougher, even if they are fully cooked. Bean salads, therefore, should not be dressed and
allowed to rest fo r extended periods. If the salad is used within four hours of preparation,
warm, vegetable, and composed salads
The classic American potato salad is a creamy salad, dressed with mayonnaise. Other
however, there is little significant texture change.
COMPOSED SALADS
Composed salads contain carefully arranged items on a plate, rather than components
tossed together. They are usually main-course salads or appetizers, rather than an accom
paniment.
Although there are no specific rules governing the requirements for a composed salad,
keep the following principles in mind:
Consider how well each of the elements combines with the others. Contrasting flavors
are intriguing. Conflicting flavors are a disaster.
Repetition of a color or flavor can be successful if it contributes to the overall dish. But
generally, too much of a good thing is simply too much.
Each elem ent of the dish should be so perfectly prepared th at it could easily stand on
its own. However, each part should be enhanced in combination with the others.
Components should be arranged in such a way th a t the textures and colors o f the foods
are most attractive to the eye.
895
Red Wine V inaigrette

Chipotle-Sherry
V inaigrette
Makes 36 f l oz/i.o8 L
2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard (for

emulsification; optional)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sherry vinegar
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lime juice
Salt, as needed
5 chipotles in adobo sauce, minced
2 shallots, minced
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil or canola oil
Salt, as needed
3 tb sp /9 g minced herbs such as chives, parsley,

oregano, basil, or tarragon (optional)
1 . Combine the vinegar, mustard, if using, shallots, salt,

pepper, and sugar. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 tb sp /2 8 g piloncillo or brown sugar

1 o z/2 8 g minced Fines Herbes (page 369)
2 . Stir in the herbs, if using, and adjust seasoning with

salt, pepper, and sugar, if necessary.

W hite W ine V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute white wine vinegar fo r
the red wine vinegar.
M u sta rd -H e rb V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute white wine vinegar
fo r the red wine vinegar, do not om it the mustard, and
add an additional 1 ts p /5 mL mustard, V2tsp /1 g onion
powder, and a pinch o f garlic powder. Use only 2 tb s p / 6 g
mixed herbs and add 2 tbsp /6 g chopped parsley.
Roasted G arlic and M u sta rd V in a ig re tte : Add 4 o z/1 1 3 g
pureed roasted garlic.
Lem on-G arlic V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute 6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL
lemon juice fo r the vinegar. Add 2 tsp /6 g garlic paste,
and 1 tsp /1 g minced rosemary.
Lem on-Parsley V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute 6 fI oz/1 80 mL
lemon juice fo r the vinegar. Add Z2 to 3/4 o z /1 4 to 21 g
chopped parsley.
1 . Combine the vinegar, lime juice, chipotles, shallots,

garlic, salt, pepper, and sugar. Gradually whisk in the
oil.
2 . Stir in the herbs and adjust seasoning with salt, pep

per, and sugar, if necessary.
J . Stir in the tarragon and maple syrup. Adjust season

ing with salt and pepper.
Makes 44 fl oz/1.32 L
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL red wine, such as Zinfandel or M erlot
4 shallots, minced
Balsamic Vinaigrette
4 o z/1 1 3 g roasted and chopped almonds

Salt, as needed
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL almond oil
5 'A o z/1 4 9 g chopped dried figs
Juice of 2 lemons

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar
2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard (optional)
Salt, as needed
V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar (optional)
1 . Combine the vinegar, wine, shallots, almonds, salt,

and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
2 . Stir in the figs and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning

3 tb s p /9 g minced herbs, such as chives, parsley,

oregano, basil, or tarragon (optional)
1 . Combine the vinegars, mustard, if using, salt, pep
salad dressing and salad recipes
Almond-Fig
V inaigrette
per, and sugar, if using, in a bowl. Gradually whisk in

the oil.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and sugar, if nec

essary. Mix in the herbs, if using.
Apple Cider
V inaigrette

NOTE: The amount of sugar added to the vinaigrette will
depend on the quality o f the balsamic vinegar used.
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL apple cider vinegar
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cut into brunoise
2 t s p /6 g s a lt
!A ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper
2 tb sp /6 g minced tarragon
1 tb s p /1 5 mL maple syrup
1 . In a small saucepan, simmer the cider until it is re

duced to 6 fl oz/i8o mL. Allow to cool.
2 . Combine the cider reduction, vinegar, apple, salt,

and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
897
Curry V inaigrette
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
Honey-Poppy SeedCitrus Dressing

Makes 36 fl o z/i.08 L
3 tb sp /19 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)

24 f I oz plus 2 ts p /7 3 0 mL olive oil
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
V i o z/1 4 g minced ginger
3 flo z /9 0 m L ketchup
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced lemongrass

(tender center portion only)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL orange juice
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL cider vinegar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL grapefruit juice
4 ts p /2 8 g honey
Honey, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g dry mustard
Salt, as needed
I V 2 ts p /4 g poppy seeds
Salt, as needed
1 . Heat 3 fl oz/go mL of the oil in a medium saucepan

over low heat. Add the curry powder, shallots, gar
lic, ginger, and lemongrass. Continue to heat until
1 . Heat 2 tsp/10 mL of the oil in a medium saucepan

over medium heat and sweat the shallots until trans
the shallots are translucent. Do not brown. Remove
lucent. Add the ketchup, vinegar, juices, honey, mus
from the heat, let cool, and combine with the re
tard, and poppy seeds. Bring to a simmer and cook
maining oil.
over low heat until bubbly and smooth, 1 minute.
2 . Combine the vinegar with the lemon juice, honey,

salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the
oil.
3 . Adjust seasoning with lemon juice, honey, salt, and

pepper, if necessary.
Remove from the heat and cool the mixture to room

temperature.
2 . Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and gradu

ally whisk in the remaining oil. Season with salt and
pepper.
Guava-Curry
V inaigrette
10 medium plum tomatoes
4 o z/1 1 3 g guava paste
Salt, as needed
Juice of 4 limes
1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced
1 tb sp /B g thyme
Salt, as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil

1 . Wash and core the tomatoes and lightly coat them

with some of the oil. Char them over an open flame.
Peel, puree, and strain the tomatoes.
2 . Combine the vinegar, tomato puree, salt, and pepper

in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the remaining
oil.
3 . Stir in the herbs and hot sauce. Adjust seasoning

1 . Combine the guava paste, vinegar, and curry pow

der in a small saucepan and warm slightly until the
guava paste is melted. Allow the mixture to cool.
2 . Combine the guava mixture with the lime juice,

Scotch bonnet, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually
Fire-Roasted Tomato
V inaigrette
whisk in the oil.
3 . Stir in the cilantro and adjust seasoning with salt

899
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar
Peanut Oil and

Malt Vinegar Salad
Dressing
Truffle V inaigrette
2 ts p /1 0 mL Dijon mustard
2 shallots, minced
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL malt vinegar
9 fl o z/2 7 0 mL mild olive oil
2 o z/5 7 g dark brown sugar
3 tb s p /4 5 mL tru ffle oil
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar
2 t s p /6 g s a lt
Salt, as needed
1 black or white tru ffle, chopped (optional)
1 . Mix together the vinegars, water, mustard, and

shallots.
2 . Whisk in the oils gradually.

3 . Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Add the truffles
just before serving if desired.
1 . Combine the oil, vinegar, sugar, tarragon, chives,

parsley, and garlic and blend well.
2 . Refrigerate the dressing to age for 24 hours before

using. The herb flavors will infuse and distribute
through the dressing for extra flavor.
3 . Stir to thoroughly recombine the ingredients and

season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or
Herb and T ru ffle V in a ig re tte : Omit the mustard and add

chopped parsley, marjoram, and m int to taste.
900
refrigerate for later service.
Makes 32 fl 02/960 ml
Green Goddess
Dressing
4 o z/1 1 3 g Pesto (page 299)

2 o z/5 7 g spinach
Salt, as needed
2 o z /5 7 g watercress
lt b s p / 3 g parsley
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL olive or vegetable oil
1 tb s p /3 g tarragon
1 . Combine the vinegar, pesto, salt, and pepper in a

bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
1 garlic clove, mashed to a paste

Salt, as needed
V inaigrette
Gourmande
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL sherry vinegar
Salt, as needed
1 . Puree the spinach, watercress, parsley, tarragon, and

garlic with the oil until smooth in a food processor
or blender. Combine the puree with the mayonnaise
Pesto V inaigrette
and mustard.
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.


V i o z/1 4 g minced chervil
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced tarragon
1 . Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and pepper

in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
2 . Stir in the chervil and tarragon and adjust seasoning

with salt and pepper, if necessary.

W alnut Oil and Red W ine V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute red
wine vinegar fo r the sherry vinegar, walnut oil fo r the
vegetable oil, and parsley and chives fo r the chervil and
tarragon.
901
Catalina French
Dressing
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

Allow the dressing to come to room temperature
before using.
3'A f I o z/1 0 5 mL pasteurized eggs

4 o z /1 13 g dark brown sugar
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL apple cider vinegar
Caesar-Style Dressing
2 ts p /1 0 mL Dijon mustard
Makes 24 fl 0ZI720 mL
'/t ts p /0.50 g garlic powder

3 o z/8 5 g anchovy fillets
'A ts p /0.50 g onion powder
V 2 o z/1 4 g dry mustard or 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
Pinch ground allspice
Salt, as needed
2 to 3 tb sp /3 0 to 45 mL lemon juice, or as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL pasteurized egg yolks
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Paprika Oil (page 9 0 7)
1 . Combine the eggs, sugar, vinegar, mustard, garlic
Salt, as needed
powder, onion powder, allspice, salt, and pepper in a
medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.

1 . Blend the anchovies, mustard, and garlic to form a
paste. Add some of the lemon juice, the egg yolks,
Peanut Dressing
cheese, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 . Add the rest of the lemon juice and hot sauce and

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL malt vinegar
4 o z /1 13 g peanut butter
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL salad oil
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the garlic, tarragon, chives, parsley, sugar,

vinegar, and peanut butter in a bowl. Gradually
whisk in the oils.
902
Mayonnaise
12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and

thinly sliced cucumber
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine vinegar
3 tb s p /9 g minced dill
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard or 2 ts p /1 0 mL
prepared mustard
1 tb sp /1 5 g sugar, or as needed
'/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar
Salt, as needed
2 4 fI o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed

1 . Puree the cucumber in a food processor until

smooth.
2 . Transfer the puree to a bowl and add the lemon

juice, sour cream, dill, and sugar. Blend until just
incorporated.
3 . Add the salt, pepper, and hot sauce and adjust sea
soning with sugar, if necessary.
1 . Combine the yolks, water, vinegar, mustard, and

sugar in a bowl. Mix well with a balloon whisk until
the mixture is slightly foamy.
2.. Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly

beating with the whisk, until the oil is incorporated
and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick.
Cucumber Dressing

4 . Use immediately or refrigerate in a clean container
for later service.
NOTE: Olive oil or mild peanut oil may be substituted fo r all
or some o f the vegetable oil.
Anchovy-C aper Mayonnaise: To the prepared mayonnaise,

add 3 f I o z/9 0 m L lemon juice, 1 tb sp /1 5 m l Dijon
mustard, 3/4 0z/21 g minced shallot, 1 oz/2 8 g chopped
parsley, 1 o z/2 8 g m in ce d drained nonpareil capers, and
1 o z/2 8 g minced anchovy fille ts . Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper.
T artar Sauce: To 2 4 f l oz/720 mL prepared mayonnaise,
add 12 oz/340 g drained sweet pickle relish, 2 oz/57g
minced drained capers, and 3 oz/85 gsm all-dice HardCooked Eggs (page 866 ). Season w ith W orcestershire
sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper.
Green Mayonnaise: Puree 5 oz/142 g spinach leaves and
4 tb sp /1 2 g each chopped parsley, tarragon, chives,
and d ill in a blender. Mix the puree w ith the prepared
mayonnaise and 2 f l oz/6 0 mL lemon juice. Adjust the
consistency w ith water, if necessary. Adjust seasoning
w ith salt and pepper.
903
io Ii
Blue Cheese Dressing

2 V i f I o z/7 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks
4 o z/1 1 3 g crumbled blue cheese
1 tb sp /1 5 mL water
2 V i ts p /7.50 g garlic paste
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL buttermilk
Salt, as needed
3 f I o z/9 0 m L m ilk
Cayenne, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 o z/2 8 g pureed onion

1 . Combine the yolks, water, and garlic in a bowl. Mix

well with a balloon whisk until the mixture is slight
ly foamy.
2 . Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly

Salt, as needed
beating with the whisk, until the oil is incorporated

and the aioli is smooth and thick.
3 . Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice.

1 . Combine the cheese, mayonnaise, sour cream, but

termilk, milk, lemon juice, onions, and garlic in a
medium bowl and mix until smooth.
2 . Add Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper and ad

just seasoning with lemon juice, if necessary.
Creamy Black
Peppercorn Dressing
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL milk or buttermilk
3 to 4 o z/8 5 to 113 g grated Parmesan, or as needed
2 o z/5 7 g anchovy paste
1 o z/2 8 g garlic paste
2 tb s p /1 2 g coarsely ground black pepper
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine all the ingredients and mix well.
2 . Adjust seasoning with Parmesan, salt, and pepper, if

necessary.
904
Ranch-Style Dressing
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped carrot

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL buttermilk
4 oz/1 IB g chopped onion
4 o z /1 13 g chopped celery
3 tb s p /4 5 mL Worcestershire sauce
1 orange, peeled and seeded
4 ts p /1 2 g minced ginger
3 tb sp /4 5 mL light soy sauce
1 tb sp /9 g minced shallot
2Vz tb sp /3 7.50 mL ketchup
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
1 ts p /2 g celery seed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Puree the carrots, onions, celery, orange, and ginger

in a blender or food processor. Transfer to a medium
bowl.
2 . Whisk in the remaining ingredients and adjust sea

soning with salt, if necessary.
1 . Combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly in a
Japanese Salad
Dressing
medium bowl.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Chapter 27 S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
905
Thousand Island
Dressing
Basil Oil
Makes 16 fl
0 Z /4 8 0
mL
3 o z/8 5 g basil leaves

1 o z/2 8 g parsley leaves
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL olive oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL chili sauce

2 fl o z/6 0 mL ketchup
r
/2
ts p /7.50 mL Worcestershire sauce
V / 2 ts p /7.50 mL hot sauce

2 'A ts p /6 .7 5 g minced garlic
1 . In a small sauce pot, blanch the basil and parsley in

boiling salted water for 20 seconds. Remove from
the water, shock in an ice water bath, and drain well.
Blot the herbs dry on paper towels.
2. . Combine the blanched herbs with half of the oil in

a blender and puree until smooth. With the blender
3 o z/8 5 g drained sweet pickle relish
running, add the remaining oil. Let stand 15 to 30
2 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), finely chopped
minutes.
Salt, as needed
3 . If desired, strain the basil oil through cheesecloth or

a coffee filter into a clean bottle or other container.
(This will take approximately 15 minutes to slowly
run through a coffee filter, but the result is a clear

oil.)
1 . Combine the mayonnaise, chili sauce, ketchup,

Worcestershire, hot sauce, onions, garlic, relish, and
eggs in a medium bowl and mix well.

4 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.

NOTE: Substitute other herbs such as chives, tarragon, or
chervil fo r the basil. Keep the parsley in all cases to give
the oil a bright green color.
Paprika Oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g sweet paprika
3 oranges, zest only, cut into strips
1 . Combine the oil and paprika in a small saucepan,

1 . Combine the oils in a saucepan and heat to
140F/6oC. Be extremely careful not to overheat
the oil. Remove from the heat and add the zest.
2 . Cool the oil to room temperature, refrigerate, and

infuse overnight.
warm to 120F/49C, remove from the heat, and

steep for 15 to 30 minutes.
2 . Strain the oil through cheesecloth or a coffee filter

into a clean bottle or other container.
3 . Strain the oil into a clean bottle or other container.

Mixed Green Salad

Makes 10 servings
Green Onion Oil

1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g mixed greens such as romaine,

Bibb, Boston, red leaf, and green leaf
3 to 5 fl o z/9 0 to 150 mL White

Wine Vinaigrette (page 896)
4 o z /1 1 3 g thinly sliced green onions
Salt, as needed
Orange Oil
1 . Combine the oil and green onions in a small sauce

pan and heat until the onions begin to sizzle. Re
move from the heat and allow the mixture to cool.
2 . Puree in a blender and let stand 15 to 30 minutes.

Strain through cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a
clean bottle or other container.
1 . Rinse, trim, and dry the greens and tear or cut them
into bite-size pieces. Mix the greens and keep them
well chilled until needed for service.
2 . For each serving, place 2V2 oz/71 g of the lettuce in a

bowl.
3 . Add 1V2 tsp to 1 tbsp/7.50 to 15 mL of the vinaigrette

to the leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the
salad gently to coat the leaves lightly and evenly.
4 . Mound the salad on a chilled salad plate and garnish

as desired. Serve immediately.
NOTE: When dressing mixed greens with a vinaigrette that
contains em ulsifiers or w ith a creamy-style dressing,
increase the amount to 8 f I oz/2 40 mL fo r 10 servings
(IV 2tbsp /2 2.50 mL per serving).
907
Thai Table Salad
Caesar Salad
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
10 red leaf lettuce leaves
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g romaine lettuce
1 English cucumber, skin on, cut into julienne
DRESSING
6 o z/1 7 0 g bean sprouts
2 0 mint sprigs
5 anchovy fillets
30 Thai basil sprigs
Salt, as needed
30 cilantro sprigs
30 rau ram leaves
3 V i f 1o z/1 0 5 mL pasteurized eggs (whole or yolks)
10 saw leaf herb leaves
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed

5 flo z /1 5 0 m L o liv e o il
Arrange the lettuce on a platter. Top with the cu

cumbers and bean sprouts. Garnish with the herbs.
Serve immediately.
5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan, or as needed

15 o z /4 2 5 g Garlic-Flavored Croutons (page 563)
Smoked Bean Curd

and Celery Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 . Separate the romaine into leaves. Clean and dry

them thoroughly. Tear or cut them into pieces, if
desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2 . For each serving, mash about Vs tsp/o.6o g garlic

paste, half an anchovy fillet, salt, and pepper into
1 2 3/ t
o z/ 3
6 1 g celery, cut into julienne
' / t t s p / l g salt
a paste in a wooden salad bowl. Add 2 tsp/io mL

egg and l tsp/5 mL lemon juice. Blend well. Add 1
tbsp/15 mL of each oil, and whisk to form a thick
'/> o z/1 4 g turbinado sugar

V* o z/7 g light soy sauce
2 ts p /1 0 mL dark sesame oil
V* o z/21 g minced green onion
8 o z/2 2 7 g smoked bean curd, cut into julienne
1 . Spread the celery into a thin layer in a perforated

hotel pan. Steam for l minute, then cool to room
temperature.
2 . Combine the salt, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, gin

ger, garlic, and green onions. Add the celery and
bean curd and toss to coat.
NOTE: Be sure to cut the celery and bean curd uniformly.
908
dressing. Add 1 to 2 tbsp/10 g grated Parmesan and 3

oz/85 g of the romaine. Toss until coated.
3 . Serve immediately on a chilled plate. Garnish with

1V2 oz/43 g croutons.
NOTES: This salad is tradition ally prepared tableside.
It is im portant to clean and sanitize the wooden salad
bowls carefully a fte r each use.
The more tradition al raw or coddled egg is replaced with
a pasteurized egg here, to help ensure the safety o f the
guest.
Caesar Salad may also be made w ith Caesar-Style
Dressing (page 902).
Makes 8 servings
Chef's Salad
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g trimmed, washed, and dried mixed greens
20 roast turkey slices, rolled tightly
20 salami slices, rolled tightly
1 head iceberg lettuce
20 ham slices, rolled tightly
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mLThousand Island Dressing (page 906)
5 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), cut into wedges
6 o z/1 7 0 g cherry tomatoes, halved
10 o z/2 8 4 g Cheddar, cut into julienne
6 o z/1 7 0 g bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
10 o z /2 8 4 g Gruyere, cut into julienne

10 tomato wedges
1 . Clean and cut the head of lettuce into 8 wedges.
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced cucumber
2 . Place each lettuce wedge on a chilled plate and top
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced carrot
with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the dressing. Garnish each por

tion with % oz/21 g each of the tomatoes and bacon.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Red or White Wine

Vinaigrette (page 896)
2 tb s p /6 g minced chives
I . Place the greens in a bowl or arrange them on a

salad platter.
2 .. Arrange the meats, eggs, cheeses, and vegetables on
Wedge o f Iceberg
with Thousand Island
Dressing
the lettuce.
3 . Drizzle with the vinaigrette, top with chives, and

serve immediately.
909
Greek Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g lettuce, such as romaine
or green leaf, cut crosswise
30 tomato wedges
10 o z/2 8 4 g cucumber, sliced or diced
10 o z/2 8 4 g yellow pepper, julienne
4 o z/1 1 3 g red onion, sliced into rings
Endive Salad with

Roquefort and
Walnuts (Salade de
Roquefort, Noix, et
Endives)
Makes 10 servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g crumbled feta

20 to 30 pitted black olives (about 3 o z/8 5 g)
20 to 30 pitted green olives (about 3 o z/8 5 g)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Lemon-Parsley

2 fl o z/6 0 mL hazelnut oil
V / 2 ts p /1 .50 g chopped tarragon
Salt, as needed
1 . For each serving, place 1V2 oz/43 g lettuce in a bowl

or arrange on a salad plate.
2 . Arrange 3 tomato wedges, 1 oz/28 g cucumbers, 1

oz/28 g yello peppers, V4 oz/7 g onions, V2 oz/14 g
2 lb /9 0 7 g Belgian endive
2V2 oz/71 g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
4 o z /1 1 3 g crumbled Roquefort
feta, and 4 to 6 olives on top of the lettuce.
3 . Drizzle with 2 tbsp/30 mL of the vinaigrette and

serve immediately.
1 . Whisk together the lemon juice, oil, and tarragon in

a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Let dress
ing stand for 30 minutes.
NOTE: The ingredients may be combined and tossed w ith the

vinaigrette and then placed in a bowl or on a plate.
May be served w ith s tu ffe d grape leaves.
2 . Separate the endive into leaves, wash thoroughly,

and pat dry. Transfer to a large salad bowl.
3 . Add the walnuts and cheese. Add the dressing and

toss until the endive is thoroughly coated. Serve
immediately.
910
BRE AKF AS T AND GARDE M A N G E R
Taco Salad
M akes 10 servings
M akes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg ground beef
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Taco Sauce (page 914), or as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g iceberg lettuce chiffonade
10 corn or flour tortillas (12-inch diameter),

shaped into bowls and fried
I/2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley

Salt, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded romaine lettuce
1 lb /4 5 4 g cubed roasted or smoked turkey
6 o z/1 70 g diced avocado
12 o z/3 4 0 g drained cooked pinto beans

10 o z/2 8 4 g diced tomatoes
2 o z/5 7 g diced red onion
10 o z/2 8 4 g shredded Cheddar or Monterey Jack
3 o z/8 5 g celery, sliced on the bias

20 pitted black olives
2 o z/5 7 g green onions, sliced on the bias
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Pico de Gallo (page 953)
10 bacon strips, cooked crisp and crumbled
1 . Brown the beef in a large sautoir or small rondeau

over medium heat, stirring and breaking it up until
1 . Blend the oil, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, and
fully cooked and no longer pink, 12 to 15 minutes.
parsley thoroughly in a large bowl. Season with salt
Remove the beef from the pan with a slotted spoon,
and pepper.
drain well, and combine with the taco sauce. The
2 . Add the lettuce and toss until combined. Divide the

lettuce among bowls or plates.
3 . Arrange the turkey, avocado, celery, and green on
Cobb Salad
mixture should hold together and be moist.
2 . Lay a bed of lettuce in the bottom of each tortilla

bowl. Layer with beans, the beef and sauce mixture,
ions on the lettuce. Drizzle the dressing remaining
tomatoes, onions, sour cream, cheese, olives, and
in the bowl over the salad. Top with cheese and ba
salsa. Serve immediately.
con. Serve at once.
913
Taco Sauce
2 'A o z/71 g small-dice onions
2
V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g minced garlic
Wilted Spinach Salad

with Warm Bacon
Vinaigrette
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced bacon
V A oz/B5 g ground cumin
l ' A o z/4 3 g minced shallot
3/ t o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL tomato puree
Salt, as needed
5 to 6 f I o z/1 5 0 to 180 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
Cornstarch slurry (see page 247), as needed
Cracked black peppercorns, as needed

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g spinach, washed and dried
Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add

the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the
5 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), cut into small dice
onions are brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sliced mushrooms
Add the garlic and continue to saute another 1 to 2
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced red onions
minutes. Add the oregano, cumin, and chili powder
4 o z /1 1 3 g Croutons (page 965)
and cook until aromatic.

Add the tomato puree and bring to a simmer. Cook,
1 . To make the vinaigrette, render the bacon in a medi
stirring frequently, until the mixture has reduced to
um sautoir over medium-low heat. When the bacon
a nappe consistency, 10 to 12 minutes.
is crisp, remove it from the pan, drain, and reserve.
Add the stock and simmer until the sauce is well

flavored, 15 to 20 minutes.
2.. Add the shallots and garlic to the bacon fat and
sweat until soft. Blend in the sugar. Remove the pan
Season with salt and pepper. Puree the sauce. Strain,
from the heat. Whisk in the vinegar and oil. Season
if desired. If necessary, thicken it with cornstarch
slurry. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be rap

3 . Toss the spinach with the eggs, mushrooms, onions,

croutons, and reserved bacon. Add the warm vinai
grette, toss once, and serve immediately.
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with

Robiola Cheese and Walnuts
M akes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-size red beets
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-size golden beets
4 . Combine the frisee, arugula, and mesclun and

reserve.
5 . Cut each baguette slice in half lengthwise. Brush

each slice with olive oil, place on a sheet pan, and
bake in a 400F/204C oven until golden brown on
the first side, about 2V2 minutes. Turn the croutons
over to brown the other side, about 2V2 minutes
more.
6 . Spread 1 oz/28 g cheese on one side of each crouton.
7 . For each portion, place 2V2 oz/71 g of the mushroom
Salt, as needed
salad in the center of the plate. Toss 1 oz/28 g of the
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
greens with 1 tsp/5 mL vinaigrette and place on top
of the mushrooms. Place 2 oz/57 g of beets around
2 f lo z /6 0 mL olive oil
5 o z/1 4 2 g cremini mushrooms, sliced
the greens and sprinkle with V2 oz/14 g walnuts.

Place 3 croutons on the greens. Drizzle a few drops
of truffle oil around the greens and serve.
5 o z/1 4 2 g white mushrooms, sliced

11 o z/3 1 2 g assorted wild mushrooms, sliced
10 fI o z/3 0 0 mL Herb and Truffle
4 o z/1 1 3 g frisee hearts, separated into small pieces
2 o z/5 7 g baby arugula
4 o z/1 1 3 g mesclun greens
Sherried Watercress
and Apple Salad
Mushrooms, Beets,
and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and
Walnuts
M akes 10 servings
15 baguette slices, cut on the bias V* in /6 mm thick
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g Robiola, soft
3 f I o z/9 0 mL sherry vinegar
5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
Truffle oil, as needed
1 ts p /5 g brown sugar
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub the beets well and remove the tops. Place the
beets in separate pots with enough cold water to cov
er by about 2 in/5 cm - Add salt and cook until tender,
30 to 40 minutes. Drain the beets and cool.
2 . Peel the beets with the back of a paring knife. Cut

into medium dice. Marinate them in the extra-virgin
olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and reserve.

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g watercress, cleaned and stemmed
10 o z/2 8 4 g Golden Delicious apple,
peeled, cut into julienne
3 o z/8 5 g minced celery
2 o z/5 7 g toasted walnuts, chopped
3 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Pour in

2 tbsp/30 mL olive oil. Add the cremini and white
mushrooms, being careful not to overcrowd the pan.
Saute them until golden brown and tender, 4 to 5
minutes. Remove the mushrooms and cool in a half
hotel pan. Repeat with the wild mushrooms and add
1 . Combine the oil, vinegar, shallots, sugar, and salt and

pepper in a large bowl and whisk until combined.
2 .. Add the watercress, apples, and celery to the vinai

grette and toss until evenly coated.
3 . Garnish with the walnuts and serve immediately.
to the other mushrooms. Toss the mushrooms with

7V2 fl oz/225 mL of the vinaigrette and reserve.
C hapter 27 S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
917
Baby Spinach,
Avocado, and
Grapefruit Salad
Makes 10 servings
V/ 2 medium avocados, sliced

3 grapefruits, cut into supremes
1 lb /4 5 4 g baby spinach
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Balsamic Vinaigrette (page 897)
Salt, as needed
Ceieriac and Tart

Apple Salad
Makes 10 servings
DRESSING
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL creme fratche or sour cream
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Dijon mustard
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, plus more as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . For each serving, combine 1 V4 oz/35 g avocado with

1 V2
oz/43 g grapefruit segments (about 3).
2 . Toss 1V2 oz/43 g of the spinach with 1 tbsp/15 mL of
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g ceieriac
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium Granny Smith
apples, peeled and diced
the vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Arrange the spinach on a chilled plate. Top it with

the avocado and grapefruit. Serve immediately.
I . To make the dressing, combine the mayonnaise,

creme fraiche, mustard, and lemon juice and blend
well. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the
Waldorf Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g medium-dice peeled apples
6 o z/1 7 0 g raw and peeled or
blanched small-dice celery
2 fl oz/6o mL of lemon juice. Peel and cut the ceie

riac into julienne.
3 . Parcook the ceieriac for about 2 minutes, drain,

shock in an ice water bath, and drain again. (Ensure
that the ceieriac is very dry.)
4 . Combine the apples and ceieriac and toss with the

dressing. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and

Salt, as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 g lettuce leaves
2 o z/5 7 g coarsely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted
1 . Combine the apples, celery, and mayonnaise in a

bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until
needed.
2 . Serve the mixture on a bed of lettuce. Garnish with

walnuts.
lemon juice.
Makes
10
servings
Summer Melon Salad

with Prosciutto
Makes
10
servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g cantaloupe balls or slices

1 lb /4 5 4 g honeydew balls or slices
2 or 3 chayotes, peeled, seeded, cut into julienne

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced prosciutto
8 o z/2 2 7 g ji'cama, cut into julienne
2 tb s p /3 0 mL aged balsamic vinegar
8 o z/2 2 7 g carrots, cut into julienne
5 oranges, cut into supremes, juice reserved
I V 2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced on a bias
1 . Arrange the melons and prosciutto on chilled plates.
2 . Drizzle with the vinegar and garnish with the pepper.
/2
ts p /7.50 g sugar
Salt, as needed
V / 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro, roughly chopped
3/ t o z/21 g mint chiffonade
Onion and Cucumber

Salad (Kachumber)
Makes
10
Chayote Salad with

Oranges (5olada de
Xuxu)
servings
1 . Combine the chayote, jicama, carrots, oranges, and

green onions gently in a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the lime juice, sugar, salt, pepper, and

reserved orange juice in a medium bowl. Gradually
whisk in the oil. Pour the dressing over the chayote
mixture and stir to combine. Chill the salad for 30
2 lb /9 0 7 g onions, cut into medium dice

2 English cucumbers, cut into medium dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, seeded,
cut into medium dice
10 Thai chiles, chopped
minutes.
3 . Toss the salad once again and serve immediately.

Garnish with the cilantro and mint.
I V 4 o z/5 0 g roughly chopped

cilantro leaves and stems
Juice of 5 lemons
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, chiles,

and cilantro. Refrigerate until needed.
2 . Ten minutes before service, add the lemon juice and

season with salt.
919
Classic Polish
Cucumber Salad
(Mizeria Klasyczna)
M akes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg English cucumbers
t/2
ts p /1.50 g salt
Coleslaw
M akes 10 servings
2 f I oz/6o mL dry mustard
V / 2 o z/4 3 g sugar
8 f I o z/2 2 7 g sour cream
I V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g celery seed
l ' / t o z/3 5 g chopped dill
V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL hot sauce
1 tb s p /1 5 mL champagne vinegar
or white wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green cabbage, shredded
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, shredded
1 . Combine the sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, mus

1 . Peel the cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, seed, and
tard, sugar, celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl.
slice into thin half-moons. Place them in a bowl and
Mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
mix with the salt. Allow the cucumbers to rest for l
2 . Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly
hour. Drain and squeeze them dry.
2 . Add the sour cream, dill, and vinegar to the cucum
coated.
bers and mix. Season with lemon juice, salt, and

pepper.
Moroccan Carrot
Salad
M akes 10 servings
V 2 o z/1 4 g roughly chopped cilantro
V 2 o z/1 4 g sugar
2 lb /9 0 7 g finely grated carrots
4 o z/1 1 3 g raisins, plumped and drained
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the lemon juice, cilantro, and sugar. Grad

ually whisk in the oil.
2 . Toss the dressing with the carrots and raisins. Season

920
Green Papaya Salad
Makes
Makes
10
servings
10
servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen, cooked
2 large green papayas (see Note)
1 lb /4 5 4 g ji'cama, peeled, cut into small dice
2 medium carrots
8 o z/2 2 7 g green cabbage chiffonade
1 tsp /1 g roughly chopped cilantro
DRESSING
Pinch cayenne
V 2 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
Salt, as needed
1 Thai chile, stem removed

3/ f o z/22.5 mL small dried shrimp
1 . Combine the corn, jicama, lime juice, cilantro, and

cayenne in a bowl and toss. Season with salt and
pepper.
V / 2 tb sp /21 g palm sugar
Salt, as needed
NOTE: This salad is best if prepared 30 minutes prior

to serving. If held fo r more than 2 hours, the jicama
becomes limp.
1 . Peel, halve, and seed the papayas. Grate the papayas

using the large holes of a box grater or cut into juli
enne using the fine die on a mandoline. Do the same
Corn and Ji'cama Salad
with the carrots. Combine the grated papayas and
Jicama Salad
Makes
10
servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g ji'cama, peeled, cut into julienne
carrots and the cabbage in a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the cilantro, garlic, Thai chile, shrimp,

lime juice, sugar, and salt in a blender and puree.
3 . Toss the dressing with the vegetables, while pound

ing, and add the fish sauce. Adjust seasoning with
2 o z/5 7 g Granny Smith apples,

peeled, cut into julienne
salt. The salad is ready to serve immediately, or may

be refrigerated for later use.
2 o z/5 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL yogurt, drained well in cheesecloth
NOTE: The papaya must be green and hard fo r this

preparation. Garnish with chopped, toasted peanuts if
desired.
3/ t ts p /1.50 g ground cumin

Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the jicama, apple, and red pepper in a me

dium bowl.
2 . Mix together the yogurt, lemon juice, and cumin in

a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over
the jicama mixture and toss to combine.
921
Cucumber and
Wakame Salad
(Sunonomo)
M akes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g cucumbers, peeled and
seeded, cut into julienne
Sliced Daikon Salad

(Mu Chae)
M akes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g peeled daikon
1 lb /4 5 4 g English cucumbers, sliced
into half-moons Ve in /3 mm thick
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
4o z/11 3g fin e-ju lien n ed carrot

8 o z/2 2 7 g carrots, cut into julienne
2 ts p /6.50 g salt
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar
1 tb sp /3.50 g dried wakame seaweed
V* o z /2 1 g sugar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL mirin
1 ts p /2 g Korean red pepper powder
V 2 ts p /2 .50 mL sesame oil
1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce
1 . Cut the daikon in half lengthwise, then into half

1 . Toss the cucumbers and carrots with the salt. Trans
fer to a perforated pan set inside a solid pan and
drain in the refrigerator for l hour.
2 .. Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes.

Drain in a colander and pour boiling water over it.
Plunge the wakame into cold water and drain well.
Trim off any tough parts and discard. Wrap the
wakame in cheesecloth and twist tightly to extract
moons Ms in/3 mm thick.
2 . Toss the daikon and cucumbers with the salt, cover,

and set aside to drain until the daikon is pliable,
about 30 minutes. Gently squeeze out any excess
water and transfer to another bowl.
3 . Add the carrots, vinegar, sugar, red pepper powder,

and oil. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate until chilled.
the moisture. Cut the wakame into chiffonade and

reserve.
3 . Whisk together the mirin, vinegar, and soy sauce.

Pour half the mixture over the cucumbers and car
Cucumber Salad
rots. Toss gently and squeeze to remove excess salt.
M akes 10 servings
Drain off the liquid.
4 . Pour the remaining dressing over the cucumbers and

carrots.
5 . At the very last minute before service, add the sea

weed and toss to combine. Serve immediately.

3
V 2 o z/9 9 g sugar
2 ts p /6.50 g salt
3 English cucumbers, halved lengthwise,
cut into y8-in/3-m m slices
1 medium red onion, quartered lengthwise,
cut into Va-\n/3-m m slices
1 tb sp /9 g red jalapeno, halved lengthwise,
cut into '/8-in/3-m m slices
4 tb sp /1 2 g roughly chopped or torn mint leaves
V * o z/2 1 g cilantro leaves
1 . Combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a saucepan.

Warm over low heat, whisking constantly until the
sugar and salt are dissolved. Do not boil. Cool to
room temperature.
922
Chicken Salad
a nonreactive bowl. Add the vinegar mixture. Mari
M akes 8 servings
nate for 30 minutes.

Drain the salad and serve immediately. Garnish with
mint and cilantro.
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g crushed garlic cloves (optional)
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Cucumber Yogurt
Salad
M akes 10 servings
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped marjoram
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped pecans

4 o z/1 1 3 g grapes, halved
3 tb sp /9 g finely chopped chervil

1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g English cucumber,
peeled, seeded, and diced
3 tb sp /9 g finely chopped tarragon
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped oregano
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Greek-style yogurt
2 tb sp /6 g chopped mint
1 . Pour the stock into a sauce pot, season with salt, and
add the garlic, if desired. Poach the chicken breasts
1 o z/2 8 g green onions, minced

V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin
in the stock over medium heat until they are forktender and fully cooked, 30 to 35 minutes.
Combine the cucumbers, onions, and jalapenos in
2 . Remove the chicken from the stock. (Strain and

reserve the stock for another use, or discard.) Allow
1 . Toss the cucumbers with salt to coat in a colander.

Allow the cucumber to sit for at least 30 minutes to
drain them of their excess liquid. Press the cucum
bers lightly to remove additional moisture.
2 . Combine the cucumbers with the yogurt, garlic,

mint, green onions, cumin, and pepper in a medium
the chicken to cool to room temperature. Cut into

medium dice.
3 . Combine the chicken with the mayonnaise, pecans,

grapes, marjoram, chervil, tarragon, and oregano.
bowl. Reserve under refrigeration until needed for

service.
923
Hue-Style Chicken
Salad
Makes
10
servings
Crispy Shallots
Makes
oz/1 1 3 g
10 o z/2 8 4 g peeled shallots

2 4 fl o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil
3 chickens (about 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg each)

1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 . Evenly slice the shallots Vs in/3 mm thick. Separate
1 tb s p /6 g coarsely ground black pepper
them into rings and spread them on a paper towel-
l 3/ t o z /5 0 g sugar
lined sheet pan to air-dry for 30 minutes. (This tech

3 o z/8 5 g onion, sliced into paper-thin rings
nique helps make the shallots crisp.)
2 . Heat the oil in a heavy pot to about 28oF/i38C.

Add the shallots and stir often with a spider until
10 Thai chiles, thinly sliced
they are golden and crisp. Remove the shallots from
3>/2 o z/99 g torn rau ram leaves
the oil and drain on the sheet pan. Allow the shallots
31/2 o z/9 9 g torn mint leaves

3'/2 o z/9 9 g torn cilantro leaves
to cool.
3 . Serve immediately or store in a covered container

for later service.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL peanut oil

2 fl o z/6 0 mL fish sauce
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Vietnamese sambal
10 Boston lettuce leaves
Tuna Salad
12 o z/3 4 0 g Steamed Long-Grain Rice (page 785)
Makes
6 red Fresno chiles, cut into paper-thin slices

I V 2 o z/4 3 g Crispy Shallots (recipe follows)
1 . Bring a stockpot of salted water to a vigorous boil.
10
servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g water-packed tuna
4Y2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice celery
l
'/2
o z/4 3 g small-dice red onion
Add the chickens, return to a boil, and simmer for 15
3/ t o z/21 g chopped dill
minutes. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the
chickens sit until they reach an internal temperature
of i65F/74C, about 45 minutes.
2 . Remove the chickens from the pot and plunge them

into cool water for 10 minutes. Remove and discard
Salt, as needed
the skin and bones. Shred the meat into thin strips.
Refrigerate until chilled.
3 . Season the chicken with the salt, pepper, and sugar.

Add the lime juice, onions, Thai chiles, rau ram,
mint, cilantro, oil, fish sauce, and sambal and toss
gently.
4 . Serve the salad in a lettuce leaf with steamed rice.

Garnish with three rings of Fresno chile and the
crispy shallots.
1 . Drain the tuna in a colander. Squeeze out the excess

liquid by handfuls, then flake the tuna into a large
bowl.
2 . Add the celery, onions, dill, mayonnaise, and lemon

juice and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and
pepper.

NOTE: Add 4 o z /1 1 3 g d ic e d pickles or drained pickle relish
fo r additional flavor.
924
Shrimp Salad
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g garlic powder, or as needed

1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard, or as needed
1 . Coarsely chop the shrimp (leave small shrimp

whole).
1 . Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, celery, and onions

and mix well. Season with salt, pepper, garlic pow
der, and mustard.
2 . Combine the shrimp, mayonnaise, celery, and onions

and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
Ham Salad
Makes 10 servings
Pasta Salad with

Pesto Vinaigrette
Egg Salad
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g diced or ground smoked ham
1 to V/2 o z/2 8 to 43 g drained sweet pickle relish
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked penne pasta, cooled

10 o z/2 8 4 g tomatoes, diced or cut into wedges
4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, diced or cut into julienne (optional)
1 to 2 tb s p /1 5 to 30 mL prepared mustard
3 o z/8 5 g diced red or sweet onion
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g pitted olives, chopped
1 . Combine the ham, mayonnaise, relish, and mustard

and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Pesto Vinaigrette (page 901)

Salt, as needed
Combine all the ingredients. Marinate for several

hours in the refrigerator before serving.
925
European-Style
Potato Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 . Combine the potatoes, eggs, onions, and celery in a

large bowl. Mix the mustard with the mayonnaise
and Worcestershire sauce. Add to the potato mixture
and toss gently. Season with salt and pepper.

3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL White Beef Stock (page 263)
3 tb sp /4 5 mL prepared mustard, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Eastern Mediterranean
Bread Salad (Fottoush)
Makes 10 servings
1 ts p /5 g sugar, or as needed
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Pita Bread (page 1037)
3 lb /1.36 kg cooked waxy potatoes,

peeled and sliced, warm
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley or minced chives
Salt, as needed
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL lemon juice
1 . Combine the onions, vinegar, and stock and bring to

a boil. Add the mustard, salt, pepper, and sugar. Stir
in the oil. Immediately pour the hot dressing over
the warm potato slices. Toss gently to mix.
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped thyme
2 . Sprinkle the salad with the parsley or chives. Let it

stand for at least l hour before serving at room tem
perature, or cool and refrigerate for later service.
1 tsp/2gcayenne
3/ t o z/21 g sugar
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped green onions
2V i oz/71 g chopped parsley

2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into medium dice
Potato Salad
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g English cucumbers, peeled,

10 o z /2 8 4 g sliced radishes
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg cooked Red Bliss

potatoes, peeled and sliced
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
5 o z/1 4 2 g diced celery
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Dijon mustard, or as needed
Salt, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice yellow pepper
1 . Cut the pita bread into small wedges. Toss the pita
wedges with 3 fl oz/go mL of the oil, salt, and pepper.
Bake on a sheet pan in a 300^/149C oven, turning
once halfway through the baking, until crisp but not
brittle, 15 minutes.
2 . Combine the lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, thyme, cay

enne, sugar, and salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in
the remaining oil.
3 . Combine the dressing with the green onions, parsley,

tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, and yellow peppers. Add
the pita toasts and gently toss. Adjust seasoning with salt
and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately, or refrigerate for later service.
20 anchovy fillets, thinly sliced (optional)
Makes 10 servings
2 tb s p /1 0 g drained, rinsed capers
8 o z/2 2 7 g stale or toasted Italian

bread, torn into medium pieces
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g large-dice tomatoes
3 tb s p /9 g basil chiffonade
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Red Wine Vinaigrette
Combine the bread, tomatoes, garlic, celery, cucum
3 o z/8 5 g celery hearts, sliced thin on the bias
bers, peppers, anchovies, if using, capers, and basil.
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice peeled, seeded cucumber
Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat.
6 o z/1 70 g medium-dice red pepper
Serve immediately, or refrigerate for later service.
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice yellow pepper
Panzanella
927
Tomato and
Mozzarella Salad
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg sliced tomatoes
Green Lentil Salad

(5olade des Lentilles
du Puy)
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g sliced fresh mozzarella

1 onion pique
10 fl o z/2 8 4 g Red Wine Vinaigrette (page 896)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g French green lentils, sorted and rinsed
Salt, as needed
2 garlic cloves
V2 o z/1 4 g basil chiffonade
1 o z/2 8 g finely minced shallot
Place the tomatoes and mozzarella slices alternately
on a plate and drizzle the vinaigrette over the top.
Salt, as needed
Season with salt. Garnish with the basil and pepper.
Serve immediately.

Roasted Peppers
(Peperoni Arrostiti)
Makes 10 servings
4 lb 4 oz/1.93 kg roasted red and
yellow peppers (see page 639)
2 o z/5 7 g golden raisins
1 . Place the onion in a medium pot with the lentils and

garlic. Cover with cold water by 1 in/3 cm- Cover the
pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce
the heat to low and simmer until the lentils are
tender but still intact, 25 to 35 minutes. The cooking liquid should be absorbed when the lentils are
cooked.
2 . Discard the onion and garlic. Toss the warm lentils

with the shallots.
3 . Combine the mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Gradually whisk in the oil. Adjust seasoning with salt

Salt, as needed
1 . Cut the peppers into Vi-in/6-mm slices and drain in

a sieve or colander for 2 hours.
2 . Combine the peppers with the oil, raisins, pine nuts,

parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper.
4 . Add the dressing to the warm lentils and shallots.

Mix well. Garnish with the parsley.

Variation: Add 6 oz/170 g each minced green onions and
chopped walnuts to the finished salad.
Makes 10 servings
Warm Black-Eyed Pea

Salad
Makes 10 servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked pinto

beans or small red kidney beans
2 rosemary sprigs
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked chickpeas
2 thyme sprigs
5 o z/1 4 2 g drained cooked red lentils
2 bay leaves
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice red onion
4 o z /1 13 g minced onions
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Vinaigrette Gourmande (page 901)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Salt, as needed
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried black-eyed peas, sorted and rinsed
I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed

3 fl o z/9 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 . Combine the black beans, pinto beans, chickpeas,

lentils, onions, celery, and parsley. Gently toss with
the vinaigrette.
2 . Marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

3 . Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or
refrigerate for later service.
Salt, as needed
Mixed Bean Salad
1 . Tie the rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves into a bun

dle with butchers twine.
2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a large saucepan over

high heat. Add the onions, half of the garlic, and the
lemon zest and saute until the onions are tender.
3 . Add the peas, stock, and bundled herbs. Bring to a

boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the peas are
tender, about 1 hour. Add more stock, if necessary, to
keep the peas covered throughout the cooking time.
4 . While the peas are cooking, combine the remaining

oil and garlic, the lemon juice, and basil.
5 . Drain the peas and remove and discard the herb

bundle. Add the hot peas to the oil mixture and toss
gently until evenly coated. Season with salt and
pepper.
Chapter 27 S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
929
Curried Rice Salad
Seafood Ravigote
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 portions
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked long-grain rice
8 o z/2 2 7 g cooked green peas
20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined
10 frog's leg pairs, cut in half
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced Granny Smith

apples, peeled if desired
10 o z/2 8 4 g bay scallops, outer muscle removed
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pumpkin seeds

2 o z/5 7 g plumped golden raisins
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL Curry Vinaigrette
Salt, as needed
Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased),
as needed (optional)

14 fI o z/4 2 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
4 egg yolks
1 tb sp /1 5 mL prepared mustard
1 ts p /2 g Fines Herbes (page 369)
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the rice, peas, onions, apples, pumpkin

seeds, and raisins.
2 . Toss lightly with the vinaigrette, adding just enough
20 cooked mussels
4 o z/1 1 3 g cucumber, cut into julienne
to moisten the rice. Season with salt, pepper, and
20 leaves Boston lettuce
curry powder, if desired.
20 tomato wedges
10 lemon wedges
1 . Combine the shallots, shrimp, frogs legs, scallops,

wine, and stock and bring to a simmer. Poach the
seafood until cooked through.
2 . Remove the seafood, cover, and refrigerate.

3 . Strain the poaching liquid. Reduce the poaching liq
uid to 3 tbsp/45 mL and transfer to a stainless-steel
bowl and allow to cool.
4 . Add the egg yolks, mustard, and lemon juice and

mix well. Whisk in the oil, starting very slowly in the
beginning and increasing the speed as the oil is ab
sorbed and a thick vinaigrette forms. Add the herbs
and season with salt and pepper.
5 . Remove the meat from the frogs legs and shell the
mussels. Combine all the seafood with the sauce.
6 . Mix the cucumber into the seafood mixture.
7 . Serve the seafood ravigote on the lettuce leaves, gar

nished with tomato, lemon, and cucumber.
930
sandwiches
Sandwiches find their place on nearly every menu, from elegant receptions
and teas to substantial but casual meals. Built from four simple elements
bread, a spread, a filling, and a garnishthey exemplify the ways in which
a global approach to cuisine can result in nearly endless variety.
CHAPTER 28
elements in a sandwich
A sandwich can be open or closed, hot or cold. It can
be small enough to serve as an hors doeuvre or large
enough to serve as an entree.
Cold sandwiches include standard deli-style ver
sions made from sliced meats or mayonnaise-dressed
salads. Club sandwiches, also known as triple-decker
sandwiches, are included in this category as well.
Hot sandwiches may feature a freshly cooked or
heated filling, such as a hamburger or pastrami. Others
are grilled, like a Reuben sandwich or a melt. Sometimes
a hot filling is mounded on bread and the sandwich is
topped with a hot sauce.
BREADS
Bread fo r sandwiches runs a fairly wide gamut. Sliced
white and wheat Pullman loaves are used to make many
cold sandwiches. The tight crumb of a good Pullman
makes it a particularly appropriate choice fo r delicate
tea and finger sandwiches, since they can be thinly
sliced without crumbling. Tea and finger sandwiches
must be made on fine-grained bread in order to be
trimmed of their crusts and precisely cut into shapes
and sizes that can be eaten in about two average bites.
Whole-grain and peasant-style breads are not always as
easy to slice thin.
Various other breads, buns, rolls, and wrappers are
used to make special sandwiches. The characteristics of
the bread and how it will f it with the sandwich should be
considered. The bread should be firm enough and thick
enough to hold the filling, but not so thick that the sand
wich is too dry to enjoy.
Most breads can be sliced in advance of sandwich
preparation as long as they are carefully covered to pre
vent drying. Toasting should be done immediately before
assemblingthe sandwich. Some breads to choose from
include:
Pullman loaves (white, wheat, or rye)
Peasant-style breads (pumpernickel, sourdough,
pain de campagne, and boule)
Rolls (hard, soft, and Kaiser)
Flatbreads (focaccia, pita, ciabatta, and lavash)
Wrappers (rice paper and egg roll)
SPREADS
Many sandwiches call for a spread applied directly to
the bread. A fat-based spread (mayonnaise or butter, for
instance) provides a barrier to keep the bread from get
ting soggy. Spreads also add moisture to a sandwich and
help hold it together as it is picked up and eaten. Some
sandwich fillings include the spread in the filling mixture
(for example, a mayonnaise-dressed tuna salad); there
is no need then to add a spread when assemblingthe
sandwich.
Spreads can be very simple and subtly flavored, or
they may themselves bring a special flavor and texture
to the sandwich. The following list of spreads includes
some classic choices as well as some that may not im
mediately spring to mind as sandwich spreads.
Mayonnaise (plain or flavored, such as aToli and
rouille) or creamy salad dressings
Plain or compound butters
M ustard or ketchup
Spreadable cheeses (ricotta, cream cheese, mascarpone, or creme fratche)
Vegetable or herb spreads (hummus, tapenade, or
pesto)
Tahini and nut butters
Jellies, jams, compotes, chutneys, and other fru it
preserves
Avocado pulp or guacamole
Oils and vinaigrettes
F IL LI N GS
Sandwich fillings are the focus of a sandwich. They may
be cold or hot, substantial or minimal. It is as important
to properly roast and slice turkey fo r club sandwiches as
it is to be certain that the watercress fo r tea sandwiches
is perfectly fresh and completely rinsed and dried. The
filling should determine how all the other elements of
the sandwich are selected and prepared. Choices for
fillings include the following:
Sliced roasted or simmered meats (roast beef,
corned beef, pastrami, turkey, ham, pate, or
Flour and corn to rtillas
932
sausage)
Grilled, roasted, or fresh vegetables
the way they complement or contrast the main filling.

When sandwiches are plated, side garnishes may also be
included. For example:
Grilled, pan-fried, or broiled burgers, sausages, fish,

or poultry
Green salad or side salad (potato, pasta, or

coleslaw)
Salads of meats, poultry, eggs, fish, or vegetables
Lettuce and sprouts
GARNISHES
Sliced fresh vegetables
Lettuce leaves, slices o f tomato or onion, sprouts, mari
Pickle spears or olives
nated or brined peppers, and olives are just a few of

the many ingredients that can be used to garnish sand
wiches. These garnishes become part of the sandwich's
Dips, spreads, or relishes

Sliced fru its
overall structure, so choose them with some thought to
presentation styles
A sandwich constructed with a top and a bottom slice
slightly more expensive to produce. Take the time to cut
of bread is known as a closed sandwich. A club sandwich
shapes uniformly so that they look their best when set in
has a third slice of bread. Still other sandwiches have
straight rows on platters or arranged on plates.
only one slice of bread, which acts as a base; these are

open-faced sandwiches.
Create straight-edged sandwiches by cutting them
into squares, rectangles, diamonds, or triangles. The
elements in a sandwich
Sliced cheeses
Cut sandwiches as close to service as possible. If

sandwiches must be prepared ahead of time, hold them
wrapped in plastic or in airtight containers for only a few
hours.
yield may be lower when preparing shapes, making them
sandwich production guidelines

Organize the work station carefully, whether prepar
Slice breads and rolls prior to service fo r volume
ing mise en place or assembling sandwiches fo r ser
production. Whenever possible, toast, grill, or broil
vice. Everything needed should be within arm's reach.
breads when ready to assemble the sandwich. If
Maximize the work flow by looking fo r ways to eliminate
bread must be toasted in advance, hold the to ast in
any unnecessary movements:
a warm area, loosely covered.
Organize the work so th a t it moves in a direct line.

Prepare spreads prior to service and have them at
a spreadable consistency. Use a spatula to spread
the entire surface of the bread.
Prepare and portion fillings and garnishes in ad

vance and hold them at the correct tem perature.
Clean and dry lettuce or other greens in advance.
Grilled sandwiches, such as a Reuben or croque
monsieur, can be fully assembled in advance of ser
vice and grilled or heated to order.
ch a p te r 28 S A N D W I C H E S
933
ClAClub
Phi I ly Hoagie
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903), or as needed
30 slices white Pullman bread,

V a in /6 mm thick, toasted
20 red leaf lettuce leaves

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced turkey
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced ham
20 tomato slices
20 bacon slices, cooked and cut in half
1 . For each sandwich, spread l tsp/5 mL of mayonnaise
Salt, as needed
Ten 10-in /25-cm hoagie rolls
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced sweet cappicola
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced genoa salami
on 1 slice of toast. Layer a lettuce leaf and 2 oz/57 g
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced provolone
each of turkey and ham on the toast.
5 o z/1 4 2 g shredded iceberg lettuce
2 . Spread Vi tsp/2.50 mL of mayonnaise on both sides

of another slice of toast and place on top of the ham.
30 tomato slices, Vs in /3 mm thick

30 onion slices, Vi6 in /1.50 mm thick
Top with another lettuce leaf, 2 tomato slices, and 2

bacon slices (4 halves).
3 . Spread 1 tsp/5 mL of mayonnaise on 1 more slice of

toast and place it on the sandwich, mayonnaise side
down.
4 . Secure the sandwich with sandwich picks. Cut the

sandwich into quarters, and serve immediately.
1 . Mix together the oil, vinegar, and oregano to make a

dressing. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it

hinged, and brush the inside with the dressing.
3 . Arrange 1 oz/28 g each prosciutto, cappicola, and

salami on the roll. Top with 2 oz/57 g provolone and
V2 oz/14 g f lettuce. Place 3 slices each tomato and
onion on top of the lettuce. Drizzle the sandwich

with additional dressing. Close the sandwich.
934
CIA Club
Chicken Burger
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg ground chicken
Barbecued Beef
Sandwich
Makes 10 servings

4 lb/1.81 kg beef brisket
1 lb /4 5 4 g Duxelles Stuffing (page 482), cooled
2 tb sp /6 g chopped herbs, such as
chives, oregano, basil, or parsley
1 ts p /3 g salt
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475)
10 hoagie or Kaiser rolls
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced provolone
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter or as needed, melted
10 Kaiser rolls
4 o z /1 13 g butter or as needed, melted
1 . Season the brisket with the salt and pepper. Place on

a rack in a roasting pan and roast in a 325F/i63C
10 green or red leaf lettuce leaves

20 tomato slices
oven for 2 hours. Cover with aluminum foil and con

tinue cooking until fork-tender, about 3 hours more.
Baste the brisket with some of the barbecue sauce
1 . Gently mix the chicken, bread crumbs, duxelles,

herbs, salt, and pepper. Form into ten 6 -o z h jo -g
patties.
2 . Lightly butter a large saute pan or griddle. Brown the
during the final 2 hours of roasting.
2 . Cool the brisket and trim off any excess fat. Slice or
shred the meat. Mix with the remaining sauce and
reheat in a 350F/i77C oven or over medium heat to
patties on both sides. Finish in a 35oF/i77C oven to
an internal temperature of i6oF/7iC. Adjust sea
an internal temperature of i65F/74C.
soning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 . Prior to service, top each burger with provolone and

return to the oven to melt.

hinged. Brush the cut surfaces with melted butter
and grill until golden. Place a burger on the roll and
serve open-faced with l lettuce leaf and 2 tomato
slices.

hinged. Brush the cut surfaces with melted butter
and grill until golden. Place the barbecued beef on
the grilled roll and serve open-faced.
Makes 10 servings
Croque Monsieur
Makes 10 servings
10 o z /2 8 4 g Gruyere (20 slices)
15 o z/4 2 5 g thinly sliced ham
20 slices white Pullman bread, '/t in /6 mm thick
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g onion, cut into julienne
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL clarified butter

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL duck sauce
1 . For each sandwich, place 1 slice Gruyere and

1V2 oz/43 g ham on 1 slice of bread. Spread lightly
with mustard. Place another slice of Gruyere on top
/ 2
tsp /1 g garlic powder, or as needed
and close with a second slice of bread. Butter both
'/2
tsp /1 g ground ginger, or as needed
sides of the assembled sandwich.
Salt, as needed
V* in /6 mm thick, toasted
sandwich recipes
Open-Faced Turkey
Sandwich with Sweet
and Sour Onions
2 . Lightly butter a flattop or pan. Cook the sandwich

until golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place
in the oven and continue cooking until the cheese
has melted. Serve immediately.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg thinly sliced roast turkey

20 tomato slices
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g thinly sliced Swiss cheese
1 . Saute the onions in the butter until translucent. Add

the soy sauce, duck sauce, and water. Simmer until
the onions are fully cooked and dry. Season with gar
lic powder, ginger, salt, and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread some of the onion mix

ture on a slice of toast. Cover with about 4V2 oz/128
g turkey. Spread additional onion mixture over the
turkey. Place 2 tomato slices on top and cover the
tomato with 2 oz/57 g cheese.
3 . Bake in a 35oF/i77C oven until the sandwich is

heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve im
mediately.
c h a p te r 28 S A N D W IC H E S
937
Makes 10 servings
Marinated Eggplant Filling

Makes 1 lb/454 S
1 lb /4 5 4 g Italian eggplant
8 3A
o z /2 48
g ricotta
2 ts p /2 g basil chiffonade
1 ts p /2 g coarsely ground black pepper
1 tsp /1 g chopped oregano
2 tb s p /1 2 g dried oregano
1 tb sp /6 g dried basil
sandwich recipes
Eggplant and
Prosciutto Panini
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /6 g coarse ground black pepper
10 Italian hard rolls
Pinch red pepper flakes
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL oil from the marinated eggplant
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Marinated Eggplant
Filling (recipe follows)
1 . Slice the eggplant into slices Vs in/3 mm thick. Layer

the slices in a colander, salting each layer liberally.
Allow the eggplant to drain for 1 hour.
2 . Rinse off the bitter liquid and blot the slices dry with
1 . In a bowl, combine the ricotta, basil, pepper, orega
no, parsley, and salt and mix well. Cover and refrig
erate overnight.
2 . For each sandwich, split a roll lengthwise and brush

the inside with oil from the marinated eggplant.
Spread i oz/28 g herbed ricotta on one half of the
roll and top with 2 oz/57 g each eggplant and pro
sciutto. Top with the other half of the roll and serve
paper towels.
3 . Mix together the oil, garlic, vinegar, oregano, basil,

black pepper, and red pepper.
4 . Toss the eggplant slices in the marinade; cover and

refrigerate for 3 to 4 days. Stir the mixture every day.
NOTE: The eggplant is ready when the flesh has become
relatively translucent and no longer tastes raw.
immediately.
3 . Grill in a panini press until golden. Serve immedi

ately.
ch a p te r 28 S A N D W IC H E S
939
Grilled Vegetable
Sandwich with
Manchego Cheese
Makes 10 servings
5 . Shake excess marinade off the vegetables before

grilling to avoid flare-ups. Grill the vegetables on
both sides over high heat until they yield slightly to
the touch, but are not mushy.
6 . Transfer the vegetables, including the peppers to a
sheet pan in a 350F/i77C oven for 10 minutes to
finish cooking them until soft.
1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g chayotes
Salt, as needed
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g eggplant, cut into / t-in /6 -m m slices
16 f lo z /4 3 9 g olive oil
1 V 2 tb sp /21 g Dijon mustard
2/b o z/1 9 g seeded, minced serrano chiles
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g chopped thyme
2 tbsp/6 g chopped oregano

2 lb /9 0 7 g red onions, sliced
7 . Slice the portobellos on the bias into %-in/6-mm

slices. Hold all the vegetables at room temperature.
8 . Gently separate and wash the lettuce leaves. Drain
on paper towels and reserve.
9 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll. Spread a thin

layer of tapenade on the cut surfaces of the roll.
Layer with mushroom, onion, poblano, red pepper,
eggplant, and chayote. Top with 2 tomato slices
and 3 slices of Manchego. Top with the other half
of the roll.
L 0 . Warm the sandwiches for 10 to 15 minutes in a
25oF/i2iC oven before serving.
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g red bell peppers, roasted,

peeled, seeded, and sliced in half
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g poblanos, roasted,
peeled, seeded, and sliced in half
Three-Cheese Melt
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g portobello mushrooms, stems removed
Makes 10 servings
I head romaine lettuce

10 hoagie rolls
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Tapenade (page 959)
I I o z/3 1 2 g beefsteak tomatoes, sliced
V b in /3 mm thick (20 slices)
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced Manchego (30 slices)
1 . Simmer the chayotes in salted water until tender,
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced Cheddar

10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced Pepper Jack
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, or as needed, soft
1 . For each sandwich, top 1 slice of bread with 1 oz/28
about 45 minutes. Cool. Cut into %-in/6-mm slices
g Cheddar, V2 oz/14 g crumbled blue cheese, 1 oz/28
(discard the pits) and reserve.
g pepper Jack, and another 1 oz/28 g Cheddar. Top
2 . Lightly salt the eggplant slices and drain in a colan

der for 30 minutes. Blot dry on paper towels.
3 . Combine the olive oil, mustard, garlic, serranos,

thyme, oregano, salt, and pepper to make the mari
nade.
4 . Place the chayote, eggplant, onions, peppers, po

blanos, and portobellos in separate half hotel pans.
Pour marinade over each and turn to coat with the
marinade.
940
20 slices white Pullman bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
with a second bread slice. Butter both sides of the

assembled sandwich.
2 . Lightly butter a flattop or saute pan. Cook the sand

wich until golden brown on both sides. If necessary,
place in the oven and continue cooking until the
cheese has melted. Serve immediately.
Reuben Sandwich
Tempeh Reuben
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
RUSSIAN DRESSING
3 f I o z/9 0 mL chili sauce
V *
oz/21 g prepared horseradish
1 o z/2 8 g minced onion, blanched

3/ t ts p /3.75 mL Worcestershire sauce
Salt, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g tempeh
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g minced onion
1 ts p /2 g paprika
20 slices rye bread, toasted
20 slices Emmentaler
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Thousand Island Dressing (page 906)
2 lb /9 0 7 g thinly sliced corned beef
12 o z/3 4 0 g Sauerkraut (page 593

or purchased), drained
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Sauerkraut (page 593 or purchased)

20 slices rye bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
1 . To prepare the Russian dressing, mix together the

mayonnaise, chili sauce, horseradish, onions, and
Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, layer l slice cheese, l tbsp/15

mL Russian dressing, 1V2 oz/43 g corned beef, and 2
oz/57 g sauerkraut on 1 slice of bread. Top with an
other 1V2 oz/43 g corned beef, 1 tbsp/15 mL Russian
dressing, and a second slice of cheese. Top with a
bread slice.
3 . Butter both sides of the assembled sandwich. Lightly

butter a flattop or pan. Cook the sandwich until
golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place in
the oven and continue cooking until the cheese has
melted. Serve immediately.
942
1 . With a sharp knife, gently slice the tempeh into 40

thin slices.
2 . Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, stock, onions, gar

lic, pepper, and paprika in a shallow baking dish.
Add the tempeh slices, cover and refrigerate to mari
nate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight, turning
occasionally.
3 . Bake the tempeh slices with their marinade in a

350F/i77C oven until lightly browned, 15 to 20
minutes.
4 . Layer 4 slices of the tempeh on 1 slice of bread with 1

tbsp/15 ml thousand island dressing and 2 fl ozl
36 g sauerkraut. Top with a second slice of bread and
serve warm.
M akes 10 servings
1 . To make the herb mayonnaise, combine the mayon

naise and the minced herbs. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL herb may

onnaise on each of 2 slices of bread. Lay some wa
tercress on 1 slice of bread and top with the second
slice.
6 o z/1 7 0 g cream cheese, soft

1 tb sp /3 g chopped dill
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, or as needed
3 . Trim the crust off each sandwich and cut into four
triangles or another desired shape.
4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated

for no more than 2 hours.
sandwich recipes
Cucumber Sandwich
with Herbed Cream
Cheese
Salt, as needed
20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick
12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced English cucumber
1 . Blend the cream cheese, dill, chives, and enough
Apple Sandwich with

>nnaise
M akes 10 servings
cream to get a smooth, spreading consistency. Sea

son with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL herbed

cream cheese on 2 slices of bread. Layer some cu

Salt, as needed
cumber slices on 1 slice of bread and top with a sec

ond slice of bread.
3 . Trim the crust off each sandwich and cut into four
rectangles or another desired shape.

1 lb /4 5 4 g Granny Smith apples,
peeled and thinly sliced

1 . Toast the curry powder in small dry saute pan over

medium heat. Allow the curry powder to cool and
blend it into the mayonnaise. Season with salt and
Watercress Sandwich
with Herb Mayonnaise
M akes 10 servings
HERB MAYONNAISE
V2 o z/1 4 g minced herbs such as chives, parsley, or dill
pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL curry

mayonnaise on each of 2 slices of bread. Place 1V4
oz/35 g apple slices on 1 slice of the bread and top
with the second slice of bread.
3 . Using a iVi-in/4-cm round cutter, cut each sandwich

into four circles, or cut into another desired shape.

Salt, as needed

3 o z/8 5 g cleaned and trimmed watercress
c h a p te r 28 S A N D W IC H E S
943
Gorgonzola and Pear

Sandwich
Tomato Sandwich with

Oregano Sour Cream
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g cream cheese, soft
5 o z/1 4 2 g Gorgonzola, soft
2 f I o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL honey
2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced
in /6 mm thick
2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine vinegar

1 lb /4 5 4 g pears
20 slices raisin pumpernickel bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
1 . Combine the sour cream and oregano. Season with

salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread about 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL of

1 . Blend the cream cheese and Gorgonzola with
enough cream to get a smooth spreading consistency.
2 . Combine the honey and vinegar. Peel and thinly

slice the pears and brush them with the honey-vinegar solution to prevent oxidation.
3 . For each sandwich, spread the Gorgonzola mixture

on 2 slices of bread. Place about l lA oz/35 g of the
pears on 1 slice of bread and top with the second
slice of bread.
4 . Cut into the desired shape. Serve immediately or

hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2
hours.
944
the sour cream mixture on each of 2 slices of bread.

Place about 3 oz/85 g tomato slices on 1 slice of the
bread and top with the second slice of bread.
3 . Cut into the desired shape. Serve immediately or

hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2
hours.
hors doeuvre
and appetizers
The distinction between an hors d'oeuvre and an appetizer has more
to do with the portion size and how and when it is served than with the
actual food being served. Hors doeuvre are typically served as a prelude
to a meal, while appetizers are usually the meal's firs t course.
CHAPTER 29
hors doeuvre
The term hors d'oeuvre is from the French fo r "outside
foods are presented. These guidelines can assist the
the meal.' Hors d'oeuvre are meant to pique the taste
chef in hors d'oeuvre presentation:
buds and perk up the appetite. Foods served as hors

doeuvre should be:
Small enough to eat in one or two bites. Some hors
d'oeuvre are eaten with the fingers, while others
may require a plate and a fork. W ith very few ex
ceptions, hors doeuvre do not require the use of a
knife.
A ttractive. Because hors doeuvre customarily
precede the meal, they are considered a means of
teasing the ap p etite. This is partially accomplished
through visual appeal.
Designed to complem ent the meal th a t is to follow.
It is im portant to avoid serving too many foods of
a similar tas te or texture. For example, if the menu
features a lobster bisque, lobster canapes may be
inappropriate.
PRESENTING HORS D' OEUVRE

The presentation of hors doeuvre can extend from the
elegance of butler-style service to the relative infor
mality of a buffet, or it may be a combination of service
styles. The type of hors d'oeuvre as well as the require
ments of a particular function determine how these
Keep in mind the nature of the event as well as the

menu th a t follows when selecting hors doeuvre.
Ice carvings and ice beds are o ften used to keep
seafood and caviar very cold, as well as fo r their
dram atic appeal. Be sure th at the ice can drain
properly and th a t heavy or large ice carvings are
stable.
Hors d'oeuvre served on platters or passed on trays
should be thoughtfully presented, so th a t the last
hors d'oeuvre on the plate is still attractively pre
sented.
Hors doeuvre th a t are served with a sauce require
serving utensils. In order to prevent the guest from
having to juggle a plate, fork, and napkin while
standing, these hors doeuvre should ordinarily be
lim ited to either b u ffe t service or served as the
prelude to a multicourse meal.
To ensure th a t hot hors d'oeuvre stay hot, avoid
combining hot and cold items on a single platter.
If possible, place few er hot hors doeuvre on each
p la tte r being passed and replenish them more
frequently.
appetizers
While hors doeuvre are served separately from the main
plating. M ost appetizers are small servings of very flavor
meal, appetizers are traditionally its firs t course. The
ful foods, meant to take just enough edge o ff the appetite
role of the appetizer on the contemporary menu is be
to permit thorough enjoyment of an entree.
coming increasingly important. Although the traditional

pate, smoked trout, or escargot with garlic butter may
still be found, dishes based on pasta, grilled vegetables,
ites are perfectly fresh clams and oysters, fo r example,
and grains are receiving more exposure.
shucked as close to service tim e as possible and served
The usual admonition to "build a menu from one
with sauces designed to enhance their naturally briny
course to the next calls fo r some logical connection
flavor, or a classic shrimp cocktail, served with a cocktail
between the appetizer and all the courses to follow. For
sauce, salsa, or other pungent sauce. Smoked fish, meat,
every rule you read about what types of foods should or
or poultry; sausages, pates, terrines, and galantines; air-
shouldn't constitute an appetizer, you will find at least
dried ham and beef sliced paper thin all of these can
one good exception.
be used to create appetizer plates, on their own with a
What most appetizers have in common is careful a t

tention to portioning and sound technical execution and
946
Classic hors d'oeuvre can be served as appetizers

by increasing the portion size slightly. Perennial favor
few accompaniments or garnishes, or as a sampler plate.
too easy to deaden the palate by overwhelming it

with too much garlic or an extravagance of basil at
stituted to vary the salad from season to season or to
the m eals start. Remember th at other courses will
showcase a range o f flavors and textures from other cui
follow this one.
sines. Small portions of meat or seafood items may be

combined with salads to create interesting appetizers.
Warm and hot appetizers include small servings of
pasta, such as tortellini or ravioli, served on their own or
in a sauce or broth. Puff pastry shells can be cut into volau-vents or made into turnovers and filled with savory
ragouts or foie gras. Broiled or grilled fish, shellfish,
or poultry are often featured. Crepes, blini, and other
similar dishes are popular. Meatballs and other highly
seasoned ground-meat appetizers are also frequent
choices.
Vegetables are more important than ever as an
appetizer. They are often presented very simplyfor
example, steamed artichokes with a dipping sauce,
chilled asparagus drizzled with a flavored oil, or a plate
of grilled vegetables accompanied by an a'ioli.
PREPARING AND PRESENTI NG AP PE TI ZE R S
In preparing and presenting appetizers, keep in mind the
following guidelines:
Keep the portion size appropriate. Generally, appe
tizers should be served in small servings.
Season all appetizers with meticulous care. Appe
Keep garnishes to a minimum. Those garnishes th at

are used should serve to heighten the dish's appeal
by adding flavor and texture, not just color.
Serve all appetizers a t the proper tem perature.
Remember to chill or warm plates.
Slice, shape, and portion appetizers carefully, with
just enough on the plate to make the appetizer in
terestin g and appealing from sta rt to finish but not
so much th a t the guest is overwhelmed.
Neatness always counts, but especially with appe
tizers. They can set the stage fo r the entire meal.
When offerin g shared appetizers, consider how
they will look when they come to the table. It may be
more effe c tiv e to split a shared plate in the kitchen,
hors doeuvre and appetizers
Salads are also served as appetizers. Portion size

may be changed or a different sauce or garnish sub
rather than leaving it to the guests to divide it

themselves.
Color, shape, and w hite space play a role in the over
all composition of the plate.
Choose the right size and shape serving pieces and
provide the guest with everything necessary for
the appetizer, including special utensils, dishes to
tizers are meant to stim ulate the appetite, so sea
hold em pty shells or bones, and, if necessary, finger
soning is of the utm ost importance. Don't overuse
bowls.
fresh herbs and other seasonings, however. It is all
c h a p te r 29 HORS DO E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
947
A C O L D S A V O R Y M O U S S E H A S M A N Y A P P L I C A T I O N S . S e r v e d U N M O L D E D , S L I C E D A S A L O A F OR T E R R I N E ,
O R P I P E D I N T O A S H E L L O R A S A T O P P I N G , I T C A N BE F E A T U R E D A S A N H O R S D ' O E U V R E , A N A P P E T I Z E R , OR
A C O M P O N E N T IN O T H E R D I S H E S .
THE
F R E N C H W O R D M O U S S E L I T E R A L L Y M E A N S " F O A M " OR F R O T H .
cold savory mousse

A mousse is prepared by gently folding whipped cream or whipped egg whites into an in
tensely flavored base th at often contains gelatin. The light, frothy mixture is chilled enough
to set before it is served. A cold mousse is not cooked a fte r assembly, since heating would
deflate the foam. A hot mousse is a small portion of a forcem eat th a t has been molded in a
fashion similar to a cold mousse before it is cooked and served hot.
Although each base ingredient may call for an adjustment in the amount of binder
and aerator, the basic formula described on the next page is a good checkpoint. It can and
should be altered depending on the type of mousse being made and the intended use of the
final product. The mousses main (base) ingredient may be one or a combination of the fo l
lowing: finely ground or pureed cooked or smoked meats, fish, or poultry; cheese or a blend
of cheeses (a spreadable cheese, such as fresh goat cheese or cream cheese, is typically
used); or a puree of vegetables (this may need to be reduced by sauteing to intensify flavor
and drive o ff excess moisture). All base ingredients should be properly seasoned before
you add other ingredients, and the seasoning rechecked once the mousse is prepared. Be
sure to tes t at service tem perature to make adjustments if necessary.
Some base ingredients are already stable enough to give finished mousses structure
(for example, cheeses). For base ingredients th at are not as dense, formulas typically in
clude a quantity of gelatin (see Working with Gelatin, page 950). The amount of gelatin
should be enough so th at the mousse holds its shape. The more gelatin is added, the firm er
the finished mousse will be. Choose the quantity based on presentation (a firm er mousse
for slicing, a softer mousse fo r spooning or piping).
The lightener in a mousse can be a foam o f whipped egg whites, or heavy cream whipped
to soft or medium peaks. If the whites or cream are overbeaten, the mousse may start to
"deflate"from its own weight as it sits. Added seasonings, flavorings, and garnishes can run
a wide gamut and should be chosen to suit the main ingredient's flavor.
Equipment needs for preparing a mousse include a food processor to work the main
item into a puree or paste, and a whisk or electric mixer with a wire whip to prepare the egg
whites and/or cream. Have a drum sieve on hand to strain the base, if necessary. Prepare
an ice w ater bath to cool the mixture, as well as the proper setup for weighing and handling
gelatin. Prepare various molds and serving dishes, or a pastry bag, to shape the finished
mousse.
948
cold savory mousse
basic formula
Cold Savory Mousse

(2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg)
Base 2 lb/907 g
Liquid** 8 fI oz/240 mL
(**to bloom gelatin)
Aerator 16 ft oz/480 mL
Binder* 1 oz/28 g gelatin

(*if required by recipe)
method
at-a-glance
expert tips
1. Puree or grind the main

ingredient.
2. Fold in binder, if using.
Cool m ixture to correct

tem perature.
Make sure that the main ingredient is the correct con

sistency. Depending on the desired result, additional liquid may be added to
achieve the correct consistency:
3. Gently fold in aerator.

V E LO U T E / B E C H A M EL / M A Y O N N A IS E
4. Imm ediately pipe or
spoon the mousse into the

desired containers.
Fold in the whipped cream or egg whites gently

and only until they are just combined to achieve the best volume and finished
texture.
c h a p te r 29 HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
949
WORKING WITH GELATIN

Gelatin is used to make aspic, to stabilize foams, and
or gel strength, in a given liquid is best described in
to thicken liquid-based mixtures that will be served
terms of ounces per pint. Formulas for producing a
cold. It is added to liquid in different concentrations
variety of gel strengths can be found in the table on
to get different results. The concentration of gelatin,
page 952.
1 . Rain or sprinkle the gelatin over a cool liquid. If
clear and liquid enough to pour easily. Stir the
the liquid is warm or hot, powdered gelatin will not
melted gelatin into a warm or room-temperature
soften properly. Scattering the gelatin over the sur
base mixture.
face of the liquid prevents it from forming clumps.
2 . Rehydrate and bloom the gelatin before use.

To bloom, soak it the amount of liquid specified
in the recipe, which should be approximately 8 fl
oz/240 mL of a water-based liquid for every 1 oz/28
g gelatin. An alternative method commonly used
for blooming sheet gelatin is to soak it in enough
cold water to completely submerge it. If this method
is used, after blooming, gently squeeze and wring
the sheet to force the excess water out, so as not to
add additional liquid to the formula, which would
change the consistency and flavor of the finished
product.
io 5F/41C),
however, you may opt to add the
bloomed gelatin directly to the base, rather than

melting it separately, and allow the bases heat to
melt it. Be sure to stir gelatin added this way until it
is completely blended into the base.
Since the product will begin to set immediately
after the gelatin is added and the mixture falls below
iio F/43C,
always prepare all molds, service con
tainers, and so on before beginning preparation.

Some gelatin-stabilized items are served in
their molds; others are unmolded before service. To
unmold, dip the mold briefly into very hot water,
3 . After it is bloomed, melt the gelatin. To melt
quickly dry the outside, invert the mold onto a plate,
bloomed gelatin, place it in a pan or bowl over low
and tap it gently to release the item.
heat or over a hot water bath until it liquefies. As the

softened gelatin warms, the mixture will become
950
If the base is cold, the gelatin may set up un

evenly. If the base is quite warm or hot (at least
cold savory mousse
1. puree the main ingredients in

a food processor or grind them with a meat grinder. For
the best possible texture, sieve the pureed base. This
removes any last bits of sinew or fiber fo r a very delicate
end product. The base should have a consistency similar
to pastry cream. It may be necessary to add a liquid or
moist product such as veloute, bechamel, unwhipped
cream, or mayonnaise to adjust the consistency. Cool
the base over an ice bath, if the mixture is hotter than
90F/32C.
Usually, a binder is necessary to produce the correct
body. Some main ingredients, such as cheese or foie gras,
may be sufficiently binding without gelatin. Add gelatin,
if necessary. Hydrate the gelatin in a cool liquid. This
process is known as b l o o m i n g . Warm the gelatin to 90
to 110F/32 to 43C to dissolve the granules. S tir the
melted gelatin into the base.
method in detail
2. fold in the whipped cream
and/
or egg whites just until they are fully combined. Beat the
cream or egg whites to soft peaks fo r best results. Fold
this aerator into the base carefully. Add about one-third
of the whipped cream firs t to make it easier to fold in the
remaining two-thirds. This technique keeps the maximum
volume in the finished mousse. Stirring the whipped
cream in too vigorously or fo r too long will cause a loss in
volume and may cause the cream to become overwhipped.
95i
3. pipe the mousse
into barquettes or
other containers, as desired. There are many different

ways to use a mousse. It may be piped into barquette
or ta rtle t shells, profiteroles, or endive spears, or used
as the spread fo r a canape. It may be spooned or piped
into portion-size molds; some presentations call fo r the
mousse to be unmolded before service while others call
for the mousse to be presented directly in the mold. A
mousse can also be layered into a terrine, unmolded, and
sliced for presentation.
Refrigerate the mousse until needed, at least two
hours if it is to be unmolded. A high-quality cold mousse
should be fully flavored, delicately set, and very light in
texture. The ingredients should be blended smoothly
so that there are no streaks of cream or base. The color
should be even and appealing.
Ratios for Gelatin Strength

I
952
GEL STRENGTH
OUNCES PER PINT
USE
DELICATE
V 4 oz/7 g
When slicing is not required
COATING
V 2 oz/14
SLICEABLE
1 oz/28 g
When product is sliced (pate en croute; head cheese)
FIRM
1 V 2 oz/43 g
Chemise or underlayment on plate or platter to

prevent reaction of food and metal
MOUSSE
2 oz/57 g
Used in mousse
Edible chaud-froid
Makes
lb g 02/1.62 kg
Blue Cheese Mousse

Makes
lb
oz/1 .1 3 kg
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g blue cheese, crumbled

12 o z/3 4 0 g cream cheese, soft
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g diced smoked salmon

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294), cold
V 2 tsp /1 g coarsely ground black pepper
1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin
12 fl o z /3 6 0 mL heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 2 6 4) or water, cold
Salt, as needed
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 . Puree the cheeses in a food processor until very

smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
2.. Fold the whipped cream into the mousse until well
blended, without any lumps.
1 . Combine the salmon and veloute in a food processor

and process until smooth. Push through a sieve and
3 . Use the mousse to prepare canapes or as a filling or

dip.
transfer to a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the gelatin with the cold stock, and bloom

until the gelatin absorbs the liquid.
Goat Cheese Mousse: S ubstitute fresh goat cheese fo r the

blue cheese.
3 . Warm the bloomed gelatin over simmering water

in a pot that matches the size of the bowl until the
granules dissolve and the mixture reaches 90 to
noF/32 to 43C.
4 . Blend the gelatin into the salmon mixture. Season
Pico de Gallo
Makes
qt/960 mL
hors d oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Smoked Salmon
Mousse
5 . Fold in the whipped cream. Shape or portion the
V 2 cu p /120 mL roughly chopped cilantro
mousse as desired. Refrigerate the mousse for at
15 medium plum tomatoes, small dice
least 2 hours to firm it.
4 serranos or jalapenos, seeded and minced

2 limes, juiced
1 medium onion, cut into small dice
Salt, as needed
Combine all the ingredients in medium bowl. Adjust

seasoning with salt. The salsa is ready to serve now,
or may be refrigerated for 1 to 2 hours. Serve at room
temperature.
ch a p te r 29 HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
953
Salsa Verde Asada
Salsa Verde Cruda
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
M akes 20 fl 02/600 m l
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g tomatillos
V A o z/3 5 g minced serrano chiles
9'/2 o z/2 6 9 g white onion
141/2 o z /4 1 1 g tomatillos, roughly chopped
3'/2 o z/9 9 g jalapeno
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
4 3A o z/1 3 5 g white onion, roughly chopped
1 ts p /3 g salt, plus more as needed
3/it s p /2 .5 0 g s a lt
3 o z/8 5 g cilantro, roughly chopped
2/2 o z /7 1 g cilantro
1 . Dry roast the tomatillos, onions, jalapenos, and gar

lic on a comal or in a cast-iron skillet over medium
1 . Place the serranos, tomatillos, garlic, and onions in a

blender. Process until almost smooth.
heat until the tomatillos and jalapenos have blistered
2 . Season with the salt and add the cilantro. Process
and are cooked through. Let cool and peel the toma
briefly until smooth, taking care not to heat up or
tillos. Once the garlic skin begins to brown, remove
burn the cilantro with the heat from the blade. The
from the heat and peel and discard the skin. Let cool
salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for
to room temperature.
later use.
2 . Crush the garlic to a paste with the salt using a mor

tar and pestle.
3 . Remove the stem and skin from the jalapenos and

slice in half. Add to the garlic in the mortar and
mash into a fine paste.
Salsa Roja
4 . Add the onions and continue mashing.

5 . Add the tomatillos, one at a time, swirling and grind
12 plum tomatoes
ing until all the tomatillos are incorporated into the
4 garlic cloves
salsa.
6 chipotle chiles, seeded and minced
6 . Mix in the cilantro and adjust seasoning with salt.

The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger
ated for later use.
I V 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro
Salt, as needed
1 . Dry roast the tomatoes on a comal over medium

heat until the tomatoes are blistered and cooked
through. Remove, cool to room temperature, and
peel.
2 . On the same comal, dry roast the garlic cloves until

the papery skin begins to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.
Peel and discard the skin.
3 . Transfer the roasted tomatoes and garlic, the chipo

tle chiles, and cilantro to a blender and process until
smooth.
4 . Season with salt. Add water if the salsa is too thick.

The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger
ated for later use.
954
Cumberland Sauce
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
2 oranges
2 lemons

7 o z/1 9 8 g small-dice ripe papaya
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g currant jelly
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red pepper
1 tb sp /6 g dry mustard
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red onion
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL ruby port
'/> o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g minced ginger
Pinch cayenne
Pinch ground ginger
Salt, as needed
1 . Remove the zest from the oranges and lemons us

ing a zester or peeler and cut into julienne. Juice the
oranges and lemon and reserve.
Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl.

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is
ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later
use.
2 . Blanch the zests for 30 seconds in a small sauce pot

of boiling water. Drain immediately.
3 . Combine the citrus juices, shallots, zests, jelly, mus

tard, port, salt, pepper, cayenne, and ginger in a non
reactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Simmer until
syrupy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Grapefruit Salsa
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL
hors doeuvre and appetizer recipes
Papaya-Black Bean
Salsa
4 . Chill the sauce over an ice water bath. The sauce is

ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later
use.

2 o z/5 7 g finely diced red onion, rinsed
1 ts p /3 g seeded, minced Scotch bonnet
2 ts p /2 g chopped parsley
4 ruby red grapefruits (about 1 lb
4 o z/5 6 7 g), segmented
2 oranges (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g), segmented
V i ts p /1 .50 g salt, or as needed
1 . Combine the oil, cilantro, onions, Scotch bonnet,

and parsley in a small bowl.
2 . Just before service, add the grapefruit and oranges.

Season with salt.
3 . The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
c h a p te r 29 HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
955
Asian Dipping Sauce

M akes 32 fl ciz/960 mL
1 o z/2 8 g minced ginger
Cilantro-Lime
Sauce
Makes
20
portions

2 o z/5 7 g minced green onions,
6 tb s p /9 0 mL minced ginger
2 ts p /1 0 mL vegetable oil
3 tb sp /4 5 mL Vietnamese chili paste
1 6 flo z /4 8 0 mL soy sauce
1 cu p /240 mL chopped cilantro
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice with pulp
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard
1 ts p /5 mL hot bean paste
V 2 cu p /50g su g ar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL honey
1 . Mash the garlic and ginger together into a fine paste

1 . Sweat the garlic, ginger, and green onions in the oil
in a small sauce pot until aromatic. Cool.
2 . Combine the sweated ingredients with the soy sauce,

vinegar, water, mustard, bean paste, and honey in a
medium bowl and mix thoroughly.
using a mortar and pestle. Transfer the mixture into

a bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Whisk
until the sugar is dissolved.
2 . Let the sauce rest for 10 minutes before tasting and

adjusting seasoning.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be cooled

Vietnamese Dipping
Sauce
Makes 32 f l 02/960 mL
20 Thai chiles, red and/or green
4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL warm water
8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL fish sauce
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely shredded carrots
1 . Slice 10 of the chiles into thin rings and set aside for
garnish. Mince the remaining chiles and transfer
them to a medium bowl.
2 . Add the garlic, sugar, water, lime juice, and fish

sauce. Whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add the reserved
chiles and carrots. Rest the sauce for 10 minutes.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
Yogurt Cucumber
Sauce
1 o z/2 8 g finely shredded carrots
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL plain yogurt
2 o z/5 7 g finely shredded daikon
1 lb /4 5 4 g cucumbers, peeled,
B'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar

]/2
o z/1 4 g minced red chiles
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL lime or lemon juice

4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc m am )
1 tb s p /9 g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
1 . Place the yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Set

the strainer in a bowl and drain at least 8 hours in
1 . Mix the carrots and daikon with 1 oz/28 g of the

sugar in a medium bowl and let stand for 15 minutes,
2.. Combine the garlic, chiles, and the remaining sugar

in a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the
lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, and water and puree,
making sure that the sugar is dissolved. Combine
with the carrot and daikon mixture.
the refrigerator.
2 . Combine the yogurt and cucumbers. Add the garlic,

cumin, turmeric, salt, and pepper.
3 . The sauce can be served chunky or pureed until

smooth. It is ready to serve now, or may be refriger
ated for later use. Stir the sauce and adjust seasoning
if necessary before serving.
Spring Roll Dipping

Sauce
ated for later use.
ch a p te r 29 HORS DO E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
957
Guacamole
M akes 32 fl
0Z /9 6 0
mL
4 . Adjust seasoning and consistency, if necessary. Gar

nish with paprika and parsley. The hummus is ready
to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
5 Hass avocados
2 plum tomatoes, cut into small dice
3 serranos, seeded and finely minced
Baba Ghanoush
2 limes, juiced
4 lb/1.81 kg eggplants (about 4)
Salt, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g tahini
1 . Seed and peel the avocados and cut roughly into me
6 ft o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice
dium dice. Combine the avocados with the tomatoes,

onions, serranos, cilantro, and lime juice and mix
Salt, as needed
well, smashing the avocados a little to form a rough
paste.
I V 2 o z/4 3 g chopped parsley (optional)
2 . Season with salt. The guacamole is ready to serve

now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
NOTE: It is best to make guacamole the same day it is to be
served.
1 . Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise. Place cut

side down on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Roast in a
450F/232C oven until the skin is charred and the
interior is fully cooked, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let the
eggplant stand until cool enough to handle.
2 . Scrape the eggplant pulp from the skin into a food
Hummus bi Tahini
processor. Add the tahini, garlic, lemon juice, salt,
neous. If it is too thick, add 2 tbsp/30 mL water and
and pepper. Blend until the mixture is homoge

continue blending.
12 o z/3 40 g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
3 . When the mixture is smooth, add the parsley, if
using, and pulse to incorporate. The consistency
3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt
should be lightly spreadable, but not too loose. Ad

4 '/2 o z /1 2 8 g tahini
4 . The baba ghanoush is ready to serve now, or may be

Salt, as needed
Paprika, as needed
1 . Boil the chickpeas in water in a medium pot until

tender, 1 to 2 hours. Drain the chickpeas, reserving
the cooking liquid.
2 . In a food processor, blend the chickpeas with about

4 fl oz/120 mL of cooking liquid until they become a
smooth paste.
3 . Add the lemon juice, garlic, oil, tahini, and salt. Pro
cess until well incorporated.
Tapenade
Makes 32 f l
0 Z/960
mL
2 or 3 dried habaneros
10 o z/2 8 4 g pitted green olives, rinsed
1 lb /4 5 4 g red chiles, seeded and stemmed
10 o z/2 8 4 g pitted black nigoise olives, rinsed
4 o z/1 1 3 g sun-dried tomatoes
6 o z/1 7 0 g capers, rinsed
1 tb sp /6 g ground turmeric
V2
tsp /1 g ground coriander
V2
tsp /1 g ground cumin
V2
tsp /1 g caraway seeds, toasted and ground
V2
ts p /2 .5 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil, or as needed

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water, or as needed
V2
ts p /1 .50 g salt, or as needed
1 . Combine the olives, capers, and garlic in a food

processor. Blend, incorporating the lemon juice and
011 slowly, until the mixture is chunky and easy to
spread. Do not overprocess.
1 . Toast the habaneros in a saute pan until the skin

darkens and a small amount of smoke rises, about 15
seconds on each side.
2 . Rehydrate the habaneros by covering them with
2 . Season with pepper and add the oregano and basil.

3 . The tapenade is ready to serve now, or may be refrig
warm water. When they are soft and hydrated, re

move the stems and seeds.
Harissa
3 . Place the habaneros, red chiles, tomatoes, garlic, tur

meric, coriander, cumin, caraway seeds, lemon juice,
and olive oil in a blender and blend until smooth and
homogeneous.
4 . Adjust the consistency with water, lemon juice, and

oil. Season with salt.
5 . The harissa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
959
Z'hu:
Wasabi
M akes 32 fl 0Z/960 mL
M akes 8 fl oz/240 m l
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg jalapenos
5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g wasabi powder
IV
Warm water, as needed
o z/5 0 g garlic, chopped
7 o z/1 9 8 g cilantro leaves

3/> o z/9 9 g parsley leaves
1 . Place the wasabi powder in a small bowl. Add

enough of the water to achieve a smooth paste. Wrap
372 o z/9 9 g mint leaves

4 ts p /8 g cumin seeds, toasted and ground
4 ts p /1 0 g ground cardamom pods,
peeled, seeded and toasted
the bowl tightly with plastic wrap.
2 . Allow the wasabi to sit for about 10 minutes, or until

the flavors develop.
3 . The wasabi is ready to serve now, or it may be refrig

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed

Salt, as needed
NOTES: Stand back when mixing the wasabi powder with the
water, as the fumes that rise w ill burn your eyes.

For a less pungent taste, sub stitute cold water fo r the
warm water.
1 . Roast the jalapenos under a salamander or over an

open flame. Set aside, covered. When cool enough to
handle, peel.
2 . Place the jalapenos, garlic, cilantro, parsley, mint,

cumin, and cardamom in a food processor and pulse
until finely chopped.
3 . Slowly add the oil while continuing to puree. Season

with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

ated for later use.
Roasted Red Pepper

Marmalade
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced red onions
4 roasted peppers, peeled and
seeded, cut into brunoise
Spicy Mustard
3 o z/8 5 g dry mustard
2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped capers

Salt, as needed
Pinch salt
Pinch sugar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL cool water, or as needed
1 . Sweat the onions in the oil until translucent. Cool to

room temperature.
2 . Combine the onions, peppers, capers, and chives and

1 . Place the mustard in a small bowl with the salt and
sugar.
2 . Gradually stir in the water to obtain the desired con

sistency. The mustard should be the consistency of a
smooth, thick, heavy cream.
3 . Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the mus
tard to sit for 15 minutes before serving.
960
season with salt and pepper. Allow the mixture to

marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes.
3 . The marmalade is ready to serve now, or it may be

M akes 32 fl oz/<)6o mL
2 . Transfer the mixture to a medium saucepan, add the

vinegar, bring to a boil, and simmer over low heat
for 15 minutes.
12 o z/3 4 0 g cranberries
3 fl o z/9 0 mL orange juice
3 f I o z/9 0 mL triple sec
3 o z/8 5 g sugar, or as needed
1 o z/2 8 g minced orange zest
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for an addi

tional 10 minutes, stir in the turmeric, and simmer 5
minutes more, or until the chutney has thickened to
the correct consistency.
4 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly

10 o z/2 8 4 g orange supremes

Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the cranberries, orange juice, triple sec,
Curried Onion Relish

sugar, and zest in a small saucepan and stir to

combine.
2 . Cover the saucepan and simmer over low heat, stir

ring occasionally. When the berries burst and the
liquid starts to thicken, 15 to 20 minutes, remove the
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice onion
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL distilled white vinegar
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
V 2 o z/1 4 g pickling spice, tied into a sachet
saucepan from the heat and add the supremes. Sea

son with salt and pepper. Adjust the sweetness with
sugar.
3 . The relish is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly

V* ts p /0 .7 5 g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
Cranberry Relish
1 . Combine all the ingredients in a medium nonreac

tive saucepan and mix well.
Spicy Mango Chutney

2 . Simmer over low heat, covered but stirring often,

for 30 minutes, until thickened to the appropriate
consistency, about 30 minutes. Be careful not to let
it scorch. Remove the sachet.
1 lb /4 5 4 g peeled, diced mango

3 o z/8 5 g raisins
3 . The relish is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly

2 ts p /6 g minced jalapeno
V i o z/1 4 g minced garlic
V i o z/1 4 g minced ginger
5 o z/1 4 2 g dark brown sugar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the mangos, raisins, jalapenos, garlic, gin

ger, and sugar in a nonreactive container. Cover and
refrigerate for 24 hours.
Chapter 29 HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
961
Pickled Ginger
Tortilla Chips
M akes 1 lb/454 g
M akes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g ginger, peeled
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying
2 tb s p /8 g s e a s a lt
Cayenne, as needed
V A
5V2 o z /156 g sugar
20 corn tortillas, cut in wedges
o z/3 5 g salt
8 shiso leaves, chiffonade
1 . Heat the oil to 350F/i77C in a deep pot over me

1 . Slice the peeled ginger very thin using a Japanese
mandoline.
2 . Place the ginger slices in a medium nonreactive

bowl with 1 tsp/5 g of the salt for 10 minutes. Rinse
in hot water and drain well.
3 . Place the vinegar, sugar, shiso, and the remaining
dium heat.
2 . Combine the cayenne and salt thoroughly in a small

cup. Reserve.
3 . Working in batches if necessary, fry the tortilla

wedges until crisp, stirring to cook evenly.
4 . Remove the chips with a spider or slotted spoon and
salt in a small pot and bring to a boil. Pour the vin
drain on paper towels. Season lightly with the cay
egar mixture over the ginger and cool to room tem
enne salt and serve.
perature. Allow the ginger to pickle overnight.
4 . The ginger is ready to serve now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
Seviche of Scallops
M akes 10 servings
Pickled Red Onions

1 habanero
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced red onions
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL orange juice or lime juice
Salt, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g sea scallops, muscle

tabs removed, thinly sliced
10 o z/2 8 4 g peeled and seeded
tomatoes, cut into small dice
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL lemon or lime juice
3 o z/8 5 g red onion, cut into thin rings
2 o z/5 7 g green onions, green and
white parts, cut on the bias
1 . Roast the habanero under a salamander or over an

open flame until the skin has blistered and charred
'/2
o z/1 4 g minced jalapeno
slightly. Set aside, covered. When cool enough to
4 tb sp /1 2 g roughly chopped cilantro
handle, peel it, remove the seeds, and finely chop.
2 . Combine the onions, juice, and half of the chopped
'/2
ts p /5 g salt
1 ts p /3 g mashed garlic
habanero in a medium bowl. Toss well to coat. Mari

nate the mixture in the refrigerator for at least 2
hours.
3 . Mix the onions and season with salt and additional

habanero, if necessary.
4 . The onions are ready to serve now, or may be refrig

1 . Combine all of the ingredients gently in a large mix

ing bowl, so that the scallops do not tear.
2 . Transfer the mixture to a nonreactive container and

marinate the scallops in the refrigerator for at least 4
hours and up to 12 hours.
3 . Serve chilled.
Makes10servings
Smoked Salmon
Platter
Makes20servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg wild striped bass fillets, skin on
1 smoked salmon fille t (approximately 3 lb/1.36 kg)
8 fl o z/2 4 0 g lime juice
3 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), whites and

yolks separated and finely chopped
2 ts p /6.50 g salt, or as needed

8 f I o z/2 4 0 g tomato juice
3 tb sp /4 5 mL extra virgin olive oil
Sugar, as needed (optional)
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice white onion
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice Roma tomatoes
1 o z/2 8 g chopped serrano chile
3 '/t o z/9 2 g chopped pitted green manzanilla olives
3 tb s p /4 5 mL rinsed and drained capers

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL creme fratche
1 tb s p /3 g chopped dill
1 baguette, toasted and sliced
1 . Slice the salmon very thin on the bias, starting from

the tail.
2 . Arrange the salmon on a platter and garnish with
2 tb sp /6 g chopped cilantro
separate piles of the chopped egg white, chopped egg
7 o z /1 98 g diced avocado
yolks, capers, and onions.
Tortilla Chips (page 962)
3 . Combine the creme fraiche and dill. Serve the sal

mon with the dill creme fraiche and toasted bread.
1 . Cut the fish into small cubes, against the grain of the
flesh, and place in a nonreactive bowl.
Ceviche Estilo
Acapulco
2 . Add the lime juice and salt and toss the fish until
well incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and re
frigerate until the fish is cooked, about 2 hours.
3 . Mix together the tomato juice, olive oil, oregano,

and salt to taste. (Depending on the brand of tomato
juice you may need to add a small amount of sugar to
cut the acidity.)
4 . Before service, drain the fish and reserve the juices.

Mix in the onions, tomatoes, chiles, olives, cilantro,
and the prepared tomato juice. Add the reserved
juices to taste. Adjust seasoning with salt.
5 . Immediately before serving, mix in the diced

avocados.
6 . Serve the ceviche in a wide-mouthed glass with tor
tilla chips.
NOTE: Any m edium -activity saltw ater f ish w ill work in this
recipe. It is best to use the freshest fish possible.
963
Makes10servings
1 . To make the salsa cruda, combine all the ingredi

ents. Reserve.
2 . With a very sharp knife, cut the tuna in 21/2-oz/7i-g

slices. Place each slice of tuna between i pieces of
plastic wrap and pound it paper thin, being careful
SALSA CRUDA
4 o z/1 13 g salted capers, rinsed
2 V i oz/71 g thinly sliced celery hearts
2 '/t o z/6 4 g red onion, cut into brunoise
2 o z/5 7 g picholine olives, pitted and roughly chopped
not to tear through the tuna. Refrigerate.
3 . To make the croutons, heat the oil in a medium

saute pan over medium-high to high heat. Pan fry
the bread until golden brown. Remove and drain on
paper towels. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . To make the salad, combine the frisee, arugula,

endive, celery leaves, radishes, and fennel fronds.
Dress lightly with l tbsp/15 mL of the lemon juice
2 ts p /6 g lemon zest, cut into julienne and blanched
and 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil. Season with salt and

pepper.

1 jalapeno, seeded, cut into brunoise
!d . To assemble each serving, place a piece of pounded

tuna carefully in the center of a plate. Place 3 tbsp/45
Salt, as needed
mL of the salsa cruda on the tuna and spread evenly.
Sprinkle croutons over the tuna and place a very

small amount of salad in the middle of the tuna.
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g trimmed big eye or yellowfin tuna loin
Place 3 olives per plate around the tuna. Garnish

with salt and pepper and a drizzle of the remaining
CROUTONS
lemon juice and olive oil. Serve immediately.
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying
Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo

di Tonno alia Battuta)
12 o z/3 4 0 g white bread, crusts

removed, cut into brunoise
Salt, as needed
SALAD
4 o z/1 1 3 g frisee hearts
4 o z/1 1 3 g baby arugula leaves
4 o z/1 1 3 g endive spears, thinly sliced
V i o z/1 4 g celery leaves
6 radishes, cut into julienne
4 o z/1 1 3 gfennelfronds
Salt, as needed
GARNISH
30 olives
965
Coconut Macadamia
Shrimp
Makes10servings
M
ARINADE
Clams Casino
Makes10servings
4 o z /1 13 g diced bacon
3 o z/8 5 g minced green pepper
2 tb sp /3 0 mL hoisin sauce
3 o z/8 5 g minced red pepper
2 tb sp /3 0 mL dry sherry
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce
1 ts p /5 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
40 littleneck or cherrystone clams
'A ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper
10 bacon strips, blanched and cut into julienne
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count),

peeled (tail on) and butterf lied
1 . In a small saute pan, render the diced bacon over
BATTER
low to medium heat until crisp. Add the onions and
move from the heat and let cool.
2 o z/5 7 g ground macadamia nuts
peppers and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Re
2 . Place the butter in a medium mixing bowl and soft
l ' A ts p /8 g baking soda
en slightly. Season with salt, pepper, and Worcester
shire. Add the bacon mixture and blend until evenly
1 egg, beaten
mixed.
3 . Scrub the clams and discard any that are open. Re

4 1 /2
o z/1 2 8 g all-purpose flour, for dredging
3 o z/8 5 g freshly grated coconut
move the top shells from the clams and loosen the
meat from the bottom shells. Top each clam with
about V2 oz/14 g f the butter mixture and 1V2 tsp/5 g
of the bacon julienne. Broil the clams until the ba
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Asian Dipping Sauce (page 956)
con is crisp and serve immediately.
1 . To make the marinade, mix together all the ingredi

ents in a medium bowl. Add the shrimp, toss to coat
evenly, and marinate for 1 hour.
2 . To make the batter, mix the flour, nuts, baking soda,

coconut milk, and egg with a whisk in a bowl.
3 . Drain away excess marinade from the shrimp. Dredge

the shrimp in flour and dip into the batter, up to the
tail. Dredge the shrimp in the coconut, pressing light
ly to flatten the shrimp and help the coconut adhere.
Place on a wire rack over a sheet pan. Refrigerate for
1 hour to allow the breading to set.
4 . Heat the oil to 350F/i77C in a heavy deep pot and

deep fry the shrimp until golden brown and cooked
through, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels.
Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes with

Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade (page 960)
Broiled Shrimp with

Garlic
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 shallot, minced
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried bread crumbs
2 eggs, beaten
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Pommery mustard
2 bunches chives, minced
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
IV * ts p /6 .2 5 mL hot sauce
l i b 12 o z /7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0
count), peeled and butterflied
2 o z/5 7 g Old Bay seasoning

2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg blue crabmeat, picked
1 . Combine the bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, oregano,
3 3/4 o z/1 0 6 g saltine cracker crumbs
and 4 oz/113 g f the butter in a medium bowl. Sea
Salt, as needed
son with the salt and pepper.

Peanut oil, as needed
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade
(page 960)
2 . For each serving, arrange 2 to 4 shrimp on a gratin

dish and brush them with some of the remaining
butter.
3 . Place 1 to 2 tsp/4 to 8 g of the bread crumb mixture

on the shrimp and place them in a 4500F/232C oven
1 . Sweat the shallots in the vegetable oil in a small

saute pan until translucent. Cool.
Chesapeake-Style
Crab Cakes
until they are very hot and cooked through, 2 to 3

minutes. Serve immediately
2 . Combine the shallots, mayonnaise, eggs, mustard,

parsley, chives, hot sauce, and Old Bay. Fold the may
onnaise mixture into the crabmeat without shred
ding. Fold in the cracker crumbs. Season with salt
and pepper.
3 . Divide the mixture into 2-oz/57-g servings and form

into small cakes 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter and % in/2
cm thick.
4 . Saute the crab cakes in peanut oil in a cast-iron

griswold over medium-high heat until golden brown
and cooked through, 2 minutes on each side. Drain
briefly on paper towels.
969
S tuffed Shrimp
Samosas
Makes
Makes
10
servings
10
servings
DOUGH
CRAB STUFFING
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL water, warm
l ' / 2 o z/4 3 g minced green onions,

V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
FILLING
V / i o z/4 3 g all-purpose flour
I V 2 o z/4 3 g butter
2V2 fl o z/7 5 mL white wine
3 fl o z/9 0 mL heavy cream
7 o z/1 9 8 g crabmeat, picked to remove cartilage
2 ts p /6 g minced serranos
Salt, as needed
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g crushed coriander
2 tb sp /30 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL tomato paste
1 lb 12 o z /7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0
count), peeled and butterflied
1 . Combine the melted butter and bread crumbs in a

small cup and set aside.
2 . Saute the onions and green onions in the butter in

a small sautoir over medium heat until tender. Add
1 lb /4 5 4 g fine-dice shrimp
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)

the flour and cook until smooth and glossy, 2 to 3

minutes. Whisk in the wine and cook for 1 minute.
1 . Mix all the ingredients for the dough in a medium
Add the cream and bring to a boil, stirring con
bowl until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let
stantly. Cook until thickened, 5 minutes. Gently fold
rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
in the crabmeat. The stuffing should be very thick.
2 . To make the filling, saute the onions in the butter in
If not, simmer it longer to thicken. Season with salt,
a medium sautoir until translucent. Add the ginger,
pepper, and lemon juice. Refrigerate.
garlic, serranos, coriander, and curry powder and
3 . Stuff the shrimp with the cooled crabmeat mixture

and sprinkle with the buttered bread crumbs.
4 . Bake in a 420F/2i6C oven until hot and browned,

4 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
saute until the aroma is strong, 1 to 2 minutes. Add

the tomato paste, lemon juice, and shrimp. Saute
for 2 minutes without browning. Add the stock and
simmer until almost all the liquid has evaporated.
Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate.
3 . Roll the dough in a pasta machine until very thin.

Cut into strips 2 by 8 in/5 by 20 cm-
4 . Place a small amount of filling (1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL)

on the end of a strip of dough and fold up into a tri
angle as you would a flag. Seal the end with egg wash.
5 . Heat the oil to 375F/i9iC. Deep fry the samosas

until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper
towels and serve while still very hot.
970
Makes
10
servings
eggs, lightly beaten
7 o z /1 9 8 g panko bread crumbs

2 o z/5 7 g matzo meal
8
fl o z /2 4 0 mL peanut oil
1 . To make the mango ketchup, simmer the tomatoes

and mangos in a sauce pot over low heat until
thick, about 25 minutes.
MANGO KETCHUP
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g tomatoes, rough chop
5 lb 3 o z/2.35 kg mangos, rough chop

2 . Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor

and puree until smooth. Strain into a clean sauce pot.
3 . Add the brown sugar, vinegar, ginger, cinnamon,

and cloves and bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring
occasionally, until it reduces to a ketchup-like consis
f I o z/2 4 0 mL cider vinegar
3/ t oz/ 2
g ginger, minced
/ 2
o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon
'/2
tsp / 1 g ground cloves
tency, about 2 hours. Let the mixture cool completely

and strain once more. Refrigerate until needed.
4 . To make the portobello mushrooms, remove the

stems and gills from the mushrooms and clean
them well. Transfer them to a shallow hotel pan.
PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS
10
6 '/2
portobello mushrooms
fl o z/1 9 5 mL peanut oil
2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL rice wine vinegar

2 tb sp /1 3 g green onion, green
and white parts, minced
1 ts p /3 g salt
V* tsp /.5 0 g ground black pepper
5 . Combine the oil, vinegar, green onions, salt, and

pepper to make a marinade. Pour the marinade
over the mushrooms. Marinate the mushrooms,
turning once, for 1 hour. Remove the mushrooms
from the marinade.
Tofu Cakes with

Portobello
Mushrooms and
Mango Ketchup
6 . Roast the mushrooms in a 350F/i77C oven until

the mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes.
7 . To make the tofu cakes, combine the carrots, cel

ery, onions, and red and yellow peppers in a sieve.
TOFU CAKES
Add 1 tbsp/10 g of the salt and let drain for 1 hour.
2 lb /9 0 7 g carrots, grated
Press the vegetables to release excess liquid.
4 o z/1 1 3 g celery, grated

4 o z/1 1 3 g onion, grated
8 . Press the tofu in a perforated hotel pan to release

excess liquid. Crumble the tofu and transfer to a
large bowl. Add the vegetables to the tofu. Add
2 o z/5 7 g red pepper, minced
the green onions, garlic, walnuts, parsley, thyme,
2 o z/5 7 g yellow pepper, minced
the remaining salt, and the pepper hot sauce, and
sesame oil, and toss to combine.
/ 2
tb sp /1 5 g salt
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g firm tofu

8
o z/2 2 7 g green onions, minced
7 o z /1 9 8 g walnuts, ground
2
tbsp / 1
g chopped parsley
1
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /5 mL hot sauce
9 . Add the eggs, panko, and matzo meal. The mix

ture should be dry enough to hold together when
pressed. If needed, add more panko. Form the mix
ture into 7 oz/198 g cakes.
10. Heat the oil in a large rondeau over medium heat.

Saute the cakes until lightly browned on both
sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Finish the cakes in a
350F/i77C oven until heated through, about 10
minutes more. Serve hot with the mushrooms and
mango ketchup.
1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil, or as needed
Chapter 29 HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
971
Pescado Frito
Makes10servings
ANCHOVIES
2 . Remove the anchovies from the marinade, drain,

and open them up like a book. Lay them flat in flour,
and gently press them in the flour on both sides.
3 . For the calamares, combine the flour, Parmesan, and

parsley in a medium bowl. Season the squid with salt

1 tb sp /6 g sweet pimenton or paprika
1 tb sp /6 g dried oregano
and pepper and dredge in the flour mixture. Allow

the squid to rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
4 . Season the flounder with salt and pepper. Combine

the parsley and bread crumbs. Coat the flounder
with the flour, eggs, and bread crumb mixture us
ing the standard breading procedure (see page 365).
3 bay leaves
Allow the flounder to rest in the refrigerator for 10
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL cold water
minutes.
1 lb /4 5 4 g fresh anchovies or smelts, gutted

5 . Heat the oil to 375F/i9iC in a heavy deep pot.

Combine the pepper flakes and tomato sauce and
reserve.
CALAMARI
6 . Working in batches, deep fry the anchovies, squid,

Drain the fried fish on paper towels to remove excess
oil. Season with salt and serve immediately with the
1 lb /4 5 4 g squid, cleaned and cut into rings

Salt, as needed
FLOUNDER FILLETS
1 lb /4 5 4 g flounder fillets, cut on the
diagonal into strips V i in / I cm wide
Salt, as needed
4 tb sp /1 2 g chopped parsley
1 q t/9 6 0 mL olive oil

20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the garlic, pimenton, vinegar, cumin, oreg

ano, and bay leaves in a medium bowl. Add the cold
water and mix well. Add the anchovies and carefully
mix with the marinade. Marinate the anchovies in
the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
972
and flounder until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
tomato sauce.
Tuna and Bean Salad
( M o u l e s
F a g i o I i)
la
Mar/mere)
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg mussels
1
tsp / 1 g chopped thyme
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped parsley
( I n s a l a t a
d i
T o n n o
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried white beans,
soaked overnight and drained
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced red onion,

soaked in cold water for 1 hour
1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g drained imported olive oil-packed tuna
2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar, or as needed
4 '/ 2
fl o z/1 3 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
Salt, as needed
1 . Cook the beans in a large sauce pot of water over

medium-low heat until tender, about 45 minutes.
1 . Scrub and debeard the mussels. Discard any that are

open.
2 . Melt l oz/28 g of the butter in a large sauteuse or

saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots
and cook until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.
3 . Add the wine and thyme and season with salt and
pepper. Allow the mixture to simmer for 2 to 3 min
utes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook over high
heat, shaking the pan often so that all of the mussels
Drain and rinse under cold water.
2 . In a large bowl, combine the beans, onions, tuna,

vinegar, and oil. Season with salt and pepper and
toss gently to combine.
3 . Adjust seasoning with vinegar, salt, and pepper, if
Mussels with White

Wine and Shallots
necessary.
4 . The salad is ready to serve now, or may be refriger

ated for later use.
open at about the same time, 2 to 3 minutes. Take

off the cover, remove the mussels as they open, and
transfer them to warm serving platter. When all of
the mussels have opened, strain the cooking broth
through a fine sieve.
4 . Wipe out the pan and return the broth to it. Bring
the liquid to a boil and cook briefly over high heat
until slightly syrupy, about 1 minute. Remove the
pan from the heat and whisk the remaining butter
into the broth, a little at a time.

Pour the broth over the mussels, garnish with the
parsley, and serve immediately.
ch a p t e r 29 HORS DO E U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
975
Baby Squid in Black

Ink Sauce (Txipirones
Saltsa Beltzean)
Makes 10 servings
6 . To make the black ink sauce, add the onions, pep

pers, and garlic to the pan and saute until caramel
ized, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato puree and
cook until rust colored.
7 . Deglaze with the wine and reduce by half. Add the

squid ink and the juices from reserved squid to the
sauce. Puree the sauce in a blender until smooth.
20
baby squid
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.

8 . Combine the squid with the sauce and simmer over
very low heat until it is tender and the sauce has
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper
slightly reduced, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced Serrano ham

Salt, as needed
BLACK INK SAUCE
8
o z/2 27 g minced onion
o z/2 2 7 g minced green pepper
Octopus Fairground
Style (Pulpo a Feira)
Makes 10 servings
2
onions, roughly chopped
bay leaf
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL tomato puree
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
f I o z/ 240 mL white wine
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL squid ink
4 lb/1.81 kg octopus
1
o z/2 8 g pimenton or smoked paprika
fl o z/2 4 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 . Clean the squid. Remove the tentacles and cut them

into small pieces, about Va in/6 mm.
2 . Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a medium saute pan

over high heat. Add the tentacles and saute briefly.
1 . Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil with the on

ions, bay leaf, and 1V2 tsp/5 g f the salt.
2 . Holding the octopus by its body, plunge the octopus
Remove the tentacles from the pan with the released
tentacles in and out of boiling water in 5-second in
juices and reserve separately.
crements; repeat 3 times.
3 . In the same pan, over medium heat, heat 2 tbsp/30

mL of the oil, add the onions and peppers, and cook
slowly until caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add the
ham and cook for 2 minutes more. Mix in the re
served tentacles and the bread crumbs. Season with
salt and pepper. Remove the filling from the pan and
let it rest until cool enough to handle.
4 . Stuff each squid with the filling and secure it with a

toothpick.
5 . Heat the remaining 2 fl oz/6o mL of oil in a large

saute pan over medium-high heat. Sear the stuffed
squid until lightly browned and slightly firmed,
about 2 minutes on each side. Remove the squid
from the pan and reserve.
B RE A K F A S T A N D GA R D E M A N G E R
3 . Place the entire octopus back in the water and sim

mer until the octopus is tender, about 1V2 hours.
4 . Remove the octopus and reserve the liquid. Allow

the octopus to rest until cool enough to handle. Peel
the octopus and cut into i-in/3-cm pieces.
5 . For service, bring the cooking liquid to a simmer.

Submerge a single order of octopus in the liquid for
30 seconds to reheat. Drain, plate, and sprinkle with
pimenton and salt. Drizzle 1 to 2 tbsp/15 t 30 mL
olive oil and serve immediately.
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g pork fatback
. Smooth the paste with oiled hands. Reserve on an

oiled plate. Repeat with the remaining paste and
sugarcane.
. Steam the skewers until the shrimp paste is firm and
opaque, 2 to 5 minutes. Reserve until service.
. Grill the skewers until the shrimp paste is lightly
browned, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Brush with
green onion oil and serve immediately.
1 tb s p /1 5 mL peanut oil, plus as needed for shaping

2
medium shallots, minced
12 o z/3 4 0 g shrimp (3 1 /3 5 count), peeled

and deveined, roughly chopped
2 ts p /1 0 mL fish sauce
/ 2
0 z /1 4 g sugar
le g g
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper
V i o z/1 4 g cornstarch
I V 2 ts p /4.50 g baking powder
2
green onions, green and white portions, thinly sliced
10 pieces sugarcane, fresh or canned, 4 in/10

cm long, no greater than I/ 2 in/ 1 cm wide
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Green Onion Oil (page 907)
Grilled Shrimp Paste

on Sugarcane (Chao
Tom)
1 . Blanch the fatback in boiling water for about 10 min

utes. Drain and mince finely.
2 . Heat the peanut oil in a medium saute pan over medi

um-high heat and saute the shallots until translucent,
1 to 2 minutes. Combine the shallots and fatback in a
medium bowl and cool to room temperature.
3 . Add the shrimp, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, egg, pepper,

cornstarch, and baking powder. Mix well to evenly
coat the shrimp.
4 . Transfer the mixture to a food processor fitted with a

steel blade. Pulse just until a smooth paste forms. Do
not overmix or it will become tough.
5 . Scrape into to a medium bowl. Stir in the green

onions. Test the mixture and adjust seasoning if nec
essary.
6 . With wet hands, form about 1 oz/28 g of the paste
into a ball. Flatten the paste in your palm and place
a sugarcane skewer on top, leaving about V2 in/i cm
clear on each end. Close your hand to wrap the paste
around the skewer and press the paste to adhere
tightly (the paste should be about Vi in/i cm thick).
c h a p t e r 29 HORS DO E U V R E A N D A P P E T I ZE R S
977
Mushroom Strudel
with Goat Cheese
Makes 12 servings
side down onto a half sheet pan. Brush the top of the
strudel with more of the melted butter. Repeat the
process to form a total of 4 strudels.
7 . Bake in a 375F/ic)i0C oven until golden brown and

crisp, 30 to 35 minutes. Slice each strudel into 6.
Serve 2 slices for each portion with sauce and sour
4 lb/1.81 kg mushrooms, sliced V a in/ 6 mm thick
cream.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely chopped shallot

V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped garlic
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry
Black Bean Cakes
12 o z/3 4 0 g goat cheese, at room temperature

Makes 10 servings
14 o z/3 9 7 g dried black beans, soaked and drained
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 2 6 5) or water
12 phyllo dough sheets, 11 by 16 in /2 8 by 41 cm
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapeno
14 f I o z/4 2 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463), warm
2 fl o z/6 0 mL sour cream
3/4 ts p /1 .5 0 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)

3/ t ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin
1 . Heat l tbsp/15 mL of the oil in a large saute pan over

medium-high heat. In batches, saute the mushrooms
3/ t ts p /1.50 g ground cardamom

1
tsp / 1 g roughly chopped cilantro
until golden brown. Drain and reserve any liquid

that accumulates in the pan. Remove the mush
rooms and set aside.
2 . In the same pan, saute the shallots and garlic until

the shallots are lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Add back the sauteed mushrooms.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium-low and deglaze the

pan with the sherry. Add any reserved mushroom
1 ts p /5 mL lime juice
1
egg white
V 2 tsp / 1 g ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 gcornmeal
juice and cook until the liquid reduces and becomes
GARNISH
slightly syrupy, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mush
room mixture to a medium bowl and cool to room

temperature.
4 . Stir in the goat cheese, chives, and thyme. Season

5 . Keep the phyllo covered with plastic wrap and a

damp cloth to prevent them from drying. For each
strudel, brush 1 sheet of phyllo dough with butter.
Repeat to create a total of 5 layers.
6 . Spread one-quarter of the filling over the top sheet
5 fl o z /1 5 0 mL Pico de Gallo (page 953)
1 . Put the beans and stock in a large stockpot and bring

to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook,
covered, until tender. Uncover and continue to cook
slowly until the stock is reduced by half.
2 . Drain off and reserve the cooking liquid. Working in

batches if necessary, puree two-thirds of the beans in
a blender or food processor with some of the cook
of phyllo, leaving a i-in/3-cm space around the edges
ing liquid to create a smooth paste. Recombine with
of the dough. Roll tightly, starting on the long side
the remaining whole beans.
and folding in the edges, to form a log. Place seam
garlic, chili powder, cumin, cardamom, and cilantro
Makes 10 servings
heat. Add the onions and jalapenos and cook until
and saute until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add to

the bean mixture.
4 . Add the lime juice and egg white and stir until
blended. Season with the salt and pepper. Form into
2-oz/57-g patties. Chill thoroughly.
5 . Dust the patties with cornmeal. Heat the butter in a

large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pat

4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers
1 lb 11 0 2 /7 6 5 g medium-dice russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
ties and saute on both sides until the exterior is crisp
and the cake is very hot, about 3 minutes per side.
14 eggs
6 . Remove the cakes from the pan, blot briefly on paper

towels, and arrange on heated plates. Serve at once,
garnished with the sour cream and pico de gallo.
1 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the oil in a large saute pan or

rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and pep
pers and cook, stirring frequently, until both are ten
der and the onions are transparent, about 5 minutes.
2 . Add the potatoes and season with salt and pepper.

Cover and cook over low to medium-low heat until
the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
3 . Whisk the eggs until smooth in a large bowl. Add the

cooked potato mixture.
4 . Heat a very large saute pan over medium-high heat.
tender and light blond, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the
Potato Omelet
(Tortilla Espanola)
D . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium
Pour in 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil and heat until close

to smoking. Add half of the egg and potato mix
ture and lower the heat to medium-low. Cook for 3
minutes, until the eggs coagulate and begin to turn
golden on the bottom. Flip the tortilla and cook until
the underside is golden brown and the tortilla feels
firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the tortilla to a sheet
tray and reserve warm; repeat with the remaining oil
and egg mixture.
5 . Slice the tortillas into wedges and serve hot, warm,

or at room temperature.
Chapter 29 HO RS D' OEUV RE A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
979
Spring Roils
Makes 10 servings
6 . Stir all the contents of the wok several times to en

sure that the solids are coated with the thickened
liquid. Remove from the heat and cool thoroughly.
1 qt plus 1 tb s p /9 7 5 mL vegetable oil, or as needed

o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onions,
green and white parts
'/ 2
o z/2 2 7 g ground pork butt
7 . Place 3 to 4 tbsp/55 to 75 g filling on each spring roll

sheet with a slotted spoon (be careful to drain off
any excess liquid), leaving a 2-in/5-cm border at each
end. Brush the edges of each sheet with egg wash.
Fold the corners over the filling, and roll the filling
up in the wrapper, sealing with more egg wash, if
'A ounce/7 g black mushrooms, rehydrated

in warm water and minced
8
o z/2 2 7 g napa cabbage chiffonade
o z/2 2 7 g bean sprouts
necessary.
8 . Hold the finished rolls onto a parchment-lined sheet
pan dusted with cornstarch until ready to fry.
9 . Heat the remaining oil to 350F/i77C in a heavy

2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms
deep pot and deep fry the rolls until golden brown,
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g green onion, green parts

only, cut into julienne
about 2 minutes. (Work in batches, if necessary.)
V/ 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL dark soy sauce
dipping sauce and spicy mustard.
IV 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL rice wine
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil
l
'/ 2
ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar
1 ts p /3 g salt
V 2 tsp / 1 g ground white pepper
1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tb sp /15
mL water to make a slurry, plus as needed
10
spring roll wrappers

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Spring Roll Dipping Sauce (page 957)
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Spicy Mustard (page 960)
1 . Heat l tbsp/15 mL of the vegetable oil in a wok over

medium-high heat. Add the ginger and sliced green
onions and stir-fry until aromatic, 30 seconds to 1
minute.
2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until cooked through, 6 to

8 minutes.
3 . Add the black mushrooms and stir-fry for about 2

minutes more.
4 . Add the cabbage, bean sprouts, shiitakes, and green

onion julienne. Stir-fry until all the vegetables are
5 . Add the soy sauce, wine, sesame oil, sugar, salt, and
pepper. Mix together, then push the solid ingredi
ents to the side of the wok. Thicken the excess liquid
in the bottom of the wok with the slurry.
Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with the
Makes 10 rolls
5 sheets (7 by 9 in /1 8 by 2 3 cm) nori
Vietnamese Salad
Rolls
Makes 10 servings

4 lb 1 o z/1 .8 4 kg cooked Sushi Rice (page 785)
5 o z/1 4 2 g carrots, cut into fine julienne

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V A o z/3 5 g sesame seeds, toasted
5 o z/1 4 2 g vermicelli-style rice noodles,

cooked, shocked, and drained
1 English cucumber (about 15 o z/4 2 5 g), peeled,

cored, and cut into sticks (Va in by 5 in /3 mm by 13 cm)
1 avocado (about 7 o z/1 9 8 g), seeded, peeled,

and cut into Vs-in/S-mm-thick slices
7 to
o z/1 9 8 to 2 2 7 g surimi, split in half lengthwise
3 tb sp /9 g cilantro leaves
3 tb sp /9 g mint leaves
3 tb sp /9 g Thai basil leaves
o z/2 8 g sugar
Pickled Ginger (page 962 or purchased), as needed
Wasabi (page 9 6 0 or purchased), as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL water, warm

10 rice paper rounds ( 6 V 2 in /1 7 cm in diameter)
1 . Prepare the bamboo mat by wrapping it tightly and

cleanly in plastic wrap.
2 . Fold a piece of nori in half lengthwise; make sure the

ripples are parallel to the fold and cut along the fold.
Lay the nori on the mat at the edge closest to you.
10
green leaf lettuce leaves
10 poached shrimp (3 0 /3 5 count), peeled

and sliced in half lengthwise
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Vietnamese
Dipping Sauce (page 956)
3 . Combine the vinegar and water. Dip your hands in

the mixture, scoop out 6V2 oz/184 g (a generous 2V2
1 . Combine the carrots and salt and let sit for 10 min
cups/600 mL) of the sushi rice, and spread the rice
utes. Squeeze the carrots and discard any juices.
in an even layer over the nori. If necessary, dip your
Combine the carrots with the noodles, lime juice,
hands in the vinegar mixture again to prevent the
cilantro, mint, and basil.
rice from sticking as you work.
4 . Sprinkle 1 tsp/2 g of sesame seeds on the rice and
2 . Combine the sugar and water. One sheet at a time,

place the rice paper in the water briefly to soften.
then flip the roll so that the long edge of the nori is
Remove the rice paper from the water and blot dry.
facing you. Lay 6 cucumber sticks, 2 avocado slices,
3 . For each roll, place 1 lettuce leaf on a softened rice
and 2 half-sticks of surimi across the length of the
paper. Top with
roll, one-third of the way in from the edge closest
1 shrimp (2 halves). Fold the paper around the fill
to you. Some of the garnish should be sticking out
ing, and roll into a cylinder.
either end.
5 . Bring the edge of the mat closest to you up and over
oz/28 g of the noodle mixture and
4 . Cut the roll in half and serve immediately with the

dipping sauce.
the garnish. Continue to roll, tucking in and tighten

ing the roll as you go. Gently press the roll between
your palms and the work surface. Slice into 6 even
pieces. Serve immediately with a garnish of pickled
ginger slices and a small mound of wasabi.
6 . Repeat with the remaining ingredients to form 10
rolls.
c h a p t e r 29 HORS D' OEUV RE A N D A P P E T I ZE R S
California Rolls
Beef Carpaccio
Makes 10 servings
2
Beef Satay with

Peanut Sauce
Makes 10 servings
lb 8 o z/1.13 kg beef sirloin, trimmed and tied

MARINADE
HERB RUB
1 4 o z /3 9 7 gsalt
1 tb s p /1 5 g palm sugar
1
tbsp / 6 g ground white pepper
r / 2 ts p /4.50 g minced lemongrass

V2ts p /2.50 mL Thai chili paste
GARNISH
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
Grated or shaved Parmesan, as needed
20 to 30 cured black olives, pitted and chopped
2 tb sp /3 0 mL capers, rinsed
/ 2
1 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the vegetable oil in a medium
1 lb /4 5 4 g flank steak, cut 1 by 4 by
Vsin /3 cm by 10 cm by 3 mm
PEANUT SAUCE
1 tb s p /1 5 mL peanut oil
1 tb sp /9 g minced shallot
1 ts p /5 mL Thai chili paste
saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef and
V 2 ts p /1 .50 g minced lime zest
sear on all sides just until colored, about 1 minute
'/t ts p /0.75 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
per side. Remove from the pan and set on a large

piece of plastic wrap.
2 . Mix together all the ingredients for the herb rub in a

small bowl. Press and rub it into the beef, then wrap
the beef securely in plastic wrap. Refrigerate about 1
hour before slicing and plating.
3 . Freeze the wrapped meat for 1 hour to facilitate

slicing.
4 . Slice the beef very thin on an electric slicer. For each

serving, place about 4 oz/113 of the slices on a chilled
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced lemongrass
3 f I o z/9 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
V2ts p /2.50 mL tamarind pulp

1 tb s p /1 5 mLfish sauce
1 tb s p /1 5 g palm sugar
l
'/ 2
ts p /7 .5 0 mL lime juice
3 o z/8 5 g peanuts, roasted, cooled,

and ground into a paste
plate. Rub a few drops of vegetable oil on the beef
Salt, as needed
and cover with plastic wrap. Using a spoon, starting
from the center, spread out the beef to the edge of

the plate in a thin, even layer.
5 . Remove the plastic before serving the carpaccio.

Drizzle with a few drops of extra-virgin olive oil and
garnish with grated Parmesan, olives, capers, and
pepper. Serve immediately.

hotel pan. Marinate the meat for 1 hour in the
refrigerator.
2 . To make the peanut sauce, heat the oil in a medium

saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic,
shallots, chili paste, lime zest, curry powder, and
lemongrass. Stir-fry until aromatic.
B RE A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
if necessary. Grill the beef until cooked to medium
Makes 10 servings
lime juice, and peanut paste. Simmer the sauce until

thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper. Cool to room temperature.
. Soak 6-in/i5-cm bamboo skewers in hot water for 1
hour. Thread the beef skewers and allow any excess
and browned nicely on the outside, 30 seconds to 1

5 live lobsters (1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g each)
minute on each side.

. Serve immediately with the peanut sauce.
3 or 4 medium red beets, cooked and peeled

3 or 4 ripe mangos
3 or 4 ripe avocados
V itelloTonnato
Makes 10 servings

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Orange Oil (page 983)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless leg of veal, tied,

seasoned, roasted, and chilled
6
Salt, as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g peeled and seeded

tomatoes, cut into small dice
o z/1 7 0 g drained canned albacore tuna
1 . Cook the lobsters by boiling or steaming until they
4 anchovy fillets
are cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from

V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely diced onion
the pot and cool.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely diced carrot
2 . Remove the meat from the tail and claw sections
(see pages 414 to 415 for more information on work
2 fl o z/6 0 mL white wine vinegar
ing with lobsters). Slice the tail sections in half

lengthwise. Remove the vein from each tail section.
2 fI o z/6 0 mL water
Reserve the claw and tail meat.
2 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page
marinade to drain from the beef before grilling; blot
Lobster Salad with

Beets, Mangos,
Avocados, and Orange
Oil
. Add the coconut milk, tamarind, fish sauce, sugar,
3 . Slice the beets about V2 in/i cm thick. Use a round

866
), yolks only, sieved
1 tb s p /1 5 mL capers, drained and chopped
cutter to shape into circles, if desired.
4 . Peel the mangos and avocados as close to service

time as possible. Slice them about V2 in/i cm thick.
1 . Slice the veal about Vs in/3 mm thick on an electric
5 . Arrange the beets, avocados, and mangos on chilled
slicer. You will need about 2 oz/57 g per serving.
plates and season with salt and pepper. Top with the
2 . Combine the tuna, anchovies, onions, carrots, wine,
lobster ( V2 tail and 1 claw section per salad). Drizzle
vinegar, and water in a food processor. Process to a

relatively smooth paste.
3 . Arrange the sliced veal on chilled plates. Nappe it

with the tuna sauce and drizzle with olive oil.
a few drops of oil over the salad.

6 . Garnish with diced tomato. Brush the lobster with
additional oil, season with salt and pepper, and serve
immediately.
4 . Garnish with the egg yolks and capers and serve

immediately.
c h a p t e r 29 HORS D' OE U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
983
Pork and Pepper Pie

(Empanada Gallega
de Cerdo)
Makes 10 servings
4 . Add the tomato paste, stirring to incorporate. Add

the ham and the reserved pork and season with the
paprika and salt. Remove from the heat and reserve.
5 . Divide the dough in 2 rounded pieces. Roll each

piece of dough V4 in/6 mm thick. Line a greased
9-in/23-cm pie pan with one piece of dough. Place
the filling in the pan and cover with the other piece
DOUGH
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine
'A tsp /1 g salt
3A o z /2 1 g sugar
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL water, lukewarm
FILLING
1 lb /4 5 4 g boneless pork loin, cut into medium dice
9 o z/2 5 5 g small-dice green pepper
r
/2
ts p /2 5 g tomato paste
3'A o z/9 2 g Serrano ham, thinly sliced

I tsp /1.50 g sweet Spanish paprika, or as needed
'A tsp /1 g salt
1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water
1 . Sift the flour into a medium bowl and make a well in

the center. Add the wine, oil, butter, salt, sugar, and
water. Mix by pulling the flour into the wet ingredi
ents with a fork. When a loose dough forms, knead
for about 2 minutes to make a flexible dough. Cover
and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
2 . While the dough is resting, prepare the filling. Heat

the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the
pork and saute until browned, about 4 minutes. Re
move the pork and reserve.
3 . Add the onions and peppers to the oil and cook until
they begin to caramelize, about 4 minutes. Add the
garlic and cook until aromatic, 2 minutes more.
B RE A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
of dough, sealing the edges with your fingers.

6 . Brush the top of the pie with egg yolk and water and
use scissors to cut a small vent in the center. Bake
in a 350F/i77C oven until browned, about 30 min
utes. If the top begins to become too brown, cover
loosely with foil. Remove from the oven and serve.
charcuterie and
garde manger
Charcuterie, strictly speaking, refers to certain foods made from the pig, including
sausage, smoked ham, bacon, head cheese, pates, and terrines. Garde manger,
traditionally referred to as the kitchen's pantry or larder section, is where foods
are kept cold during extended storage and while being prepared as a cold plate.
CHAPTER
30
Forcemeat, a
b a s ic
c o m p o n e n t
of
c h a r c u t e r ie
a nd
g arde
m a n g e r
p r e p a r a t io n s
s uc h
as
P A T E S A N D T E R R I N E S , I S P R E P A R E D B Y G R I N D I N G L E A N M E A T S T O G E T H E R W I T H FA T A N D S E A S O N I N G S
TO F O R M A N E M U L S IO N .
forcemeats
There are fiv e typ e s o f fo rce m e a t. A m ousselin e-style f o r c e m e a t con sists o f leaner, m ore
de lica te m eats such as salmon or chicken com bined w ith cream and eggs. A s t ra ig h t f o rc e
m e a t calls fo r lean m eats to be ground to g e th e r w ith fa tb a ck. C o un try -sty le fo rc e m e a ts
have a coarser te x tu re than o th e r fo rc e m e a ts and usually c ontain liver. Gratin fo rc e m e a ts
are sim ila r to s tra ig h t fo rc e m e a ts w ith the fo llo w in g d iffe re n ce : a p o rtio n o f the m eat is
seared and cooled b e fo re it is ground w ith the o th e r in gre die nts. Emulsion forcem eats, or
5 -4 -3 -ty p e , re fe r to the ra tio o f m eat, fa t, and w a te r and are used to make item s such as
fra n k fu rte rs , bologna, and m ortad ella.
Once pureed o r ground to g e th e r, fo rc e m e a ts are m ixed long enough to develop a uni
fo rm and sliceable te x tu re and to ensure a good em ulsion. A ll fiv e fo rc e m e a t style s have a
num ber o f a p p lica tio n s in th e p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen: to prepare ap pe tizers, to use as s t u f f
ings, or to produce garde m anger sp e cia lty item s including pates, te rrin e s, and galantines.
A ll necessary in g re d ie n ts and eq uipm en t used in p re p a rin g fo rc e m e a t m ust be scrupu
lously clean and w ell chilled a t all tim e s so th a t the lean m eat and fa ts can com bine p ro p
erly. R e frig e ra te in g re d ie n ts and grin d in g eq uipm en t u n til the y are needed and hold them
over a co n ta in e r o f ice to keep the te m p e ra tu re low durin g actual pre pa ration . E quipm ent
can be chilled in ice w ater, if necessary.
FORCEM EAT C O M PO N EN TS
Forcem eats have th re e basic com ponents. The main (dom inant) m eat provides the fo rc e
meat's fla v o r and body. Fat gives a richness and smoothness; it may be e ith e r the fa t th a t oc
curs na turally in a cut o f meat, or in the fo rm o f fa tb a ck or heavy cream. Seasonings are c r iti
cal, especially salt. S alt not only enhances the fo rc e m e a ts fla v o r but it also plays a key role in
developing the forcem eat's te x tu re and bind. O ther seasonings may be added as desired.
An a d d itio n a l com ponent, a secondary binding agent, is som e tim es req uire d to help
bind th e fo rc e m e a t to g e th e r, especially if th e main ite m is de lica te or when it is n o t fin e ly
ground. These binders may be eggs or egg w hites, or a m ixtu re o f cream and eggs. Pate a
choux, cooked rice, cooked p o ta to e s, or n o n fa t dry m ilk pow der may be used as binders fo r
fo rce m e a ts.
Panadas are also used as binders. To make a bread panada, soak cubed bread in m ilk, in
a ra tio o f one p a rt bread to one p a rt m ilk (by volum e), u n til th e bread has absorbed the milk.
A flo u r panada is e sse n tia lly a very heavy becham el enriched w ith th re e to fo u r egg yolks
per 16 f l o z /4 8 0 mL o f liquid. S om etim es eggs are also added to panadas.
G arnishes are o fte n fo ld e d in to a fo rc e m e a t o r arranged in the fo rc e m e a t as the pate
o r te rrin e m old is fille d . O ptions include such item s as nuts, diced m eats or vegetables,
d ried fru its , and tru ffle s .
A v a rie ty o f liners or w ra pp ers can be used when p re pa ring te rrin e s and pates. Thin
sheets o f ham, p ro s c iu tto , or vegetables are com m only used fo r te rrin e s. Pates en croOte
are baked in p a s try -lin e d m olds. The dough used fo r pates is, by necessity, a s tro n g e r dough
than a norm al pie dough, although th e p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue is id en tical. (Pate dough may
986
B RE A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
bread flo u r may be added to change the fla v o r o f th e dough. For in s tru c tio n s fo r lining a
pate m old w ith dough, see page 991.
Aspic is applied to fo o d s to pre ven t the m fro m d ryin g o u t and to preserve th e ir fre s h
ness. A spic is a w ell-seasoned, highly gelatinous, p e rfe c tly c la rifie d stock. It is fre q u e n tly
s tre n g th e n e d by adding g e la tin (see page 995). When p ro p e rly prepared, aspic sets firm ly
torcem eats
also be used to prepare b a rq u e tte m olds.) Herbs, spices, lem on zest, or flo u rs o th e r than
b u t s till m e lts in the m outh. A spic made fro m consom m es m ade w ith w h ite s to ck th a t w ill
be clear or lig h t brown. When th e base s to c k is brown, th e aspic is am ber or brown. O ther
colors may be achieved by adding an a p p ro p ria te spice, herb, or v eg etab le puree.
PREPARING THE FORCEMEAT

Use a m eat g rin d e r to prepare m ost m eats, although a fo o d pro cesso r is adequate to grind
de lica te m eats and fish. Be sure th a t the blade fo r e ith e r th e g rin d e r or th e fo o d processor
is ve ry sharp. M ea ts should be cut cleanly, never m angled o r mashed as th e y pass through
the grinder. Have an ice bath ready over which to m ix and hold the fo rce m e a t. Forcem eats
can be m ixed by hand over ice w ith a spoon, in an e le c tric m ixer, o r in a fo o d processor.
Some fo rc e m e a ts are pushed th ro u g h a drum sieve to rem ove any fib e rs o r sinew. Once
prepared, fo rc e m e a ts can be shaped in a v a rie ty o f m olds, includ in g earth en w are molds
known as te rrin e s and hinged pate molds, as w e ll as a v a rie ty o f s p e cia lty molds.
Follow sound s a n ita tio n procedures and m aintain cold te m p e ra tu re s a t all tim es. M ain
ta in in g the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re is im p o rta n t fo r m ore than the p ro p e r fo rm a tio n o f an
em ulsion. Ing re dients used in a fo rc e m e a t are o fte n highly su sce p tib le to con tam in ation
due to handling, extended c o n ta c t w ith equipm ent, and g re a te r exposure to air. Pork, po u l
try , seafood, and da iry pro du cts begin to lose th e ir q u a lity and s a fe ty ra p id ly when they
rise above 40F/4C . If the fo rc e m e a t seems to be approaching room te m p e ra tu re a t any
p o in t in its p re pa ration , it is to o warm . S top w o rk and chill all in g re d ie n ts and equipm ent.
Resume w o rk only a fte r e ve ryth in g is below 40 F /4 C once more. Em ulsion or 5 -4 -3 fo rc e
m eats are th e exception: The m eat and w a te r are b ro u g h t up to 40 F /4 C b e fo re the fa t
is blended in. A t 45F/7C , n o n fa t dry m ilk is added. The em ulsion is m ixed u n til it reaches
58 F /14C . It is then cooled qu ickly to p re ve n t pathogen gro w th.
G rind fo o d s p ro pe rly. Both th e do m in ant m ea t and fa tb a c k (if used) m ust be p ro p e rly
ground b e fo re th e fo rc e m e a t can be prepared. Some garnishes are also ground along w ith
th e m ea t and fa t.
To prepare th e m eat fo r grinding, cu t it in to s trip s o r cubes th a t w ill f i t easily through
the grinder's fee d tube. Combine it w ith an adequate am ount o f s a lt and the desired sea
sonings and le t the m eat m arinate in the re frig e ra to r fo r up to 4 hours. The s a lt w ill draw
o u t p ro te in s resp on sible f o r both fla v o r and te x tu re developm ent.
To prepare a grinder, choose the co rre ct size die. For all b u t very delicate m eats (fish and
some type s o f organ meats, fo r example), begin w ith a die th a t has large or medium openings.
Continue to grind throu gh progressively sm aller dies u n til you achieve the co rre ct consis
tency. S ta rtin g w ith a sm all die can cause the equipm ent to heat up via fric tio n and threa ten
th e emulsion. Remem ber to chill ingredients and equipm ent between successive grindings.
To use a grinder, guide the s trip s o f m eat and fa tb a c k in to th e fe e d tube. If the y are the
c o rre c t size, th e y w ill be drawn in easily by th e worm . If th e y s tic k to the fee d tra y or the
sides o f th e fe e d tube, the y can be aided throu gh w ith a tam per, b u t do n o t fo rc e the fo o d s
throu gh th e fee d tu b e w ith a tam per.
To use a fo o d processor, cut the m eat in to sm all dice b e fo re seasoning it. Chill the blade
and bow l o f th e fo o d processor. Run the machine ju s t long enough to grind th e m eat in to
a sm oo th paste. Pulsing th e machine o f f and on and scraping down th e sides o f the bowl
produces th e m o st even te x tu re .
ch a p t e r 30 C H A R C U T E R I E A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
987
basic formula
Straight Forcemeat
4 1 /2 oz/128 g shallots,
(2 lb /9 0 7 g)
sweated and cooled
9 oz/255 g lean pork
Seasonings and herbs, as needed
9 oz/255 g predominant meat (lean)

9 oz/255 g pork fat
Secondary binder such as

panada or 1 medium egg
2 to 4 fl oz/60 to 120 mL
heavy cream (optional)
1 /4 tsp/1.25 mL Instacure
Garnish, as needed
No. 1 (optional)
method at-a-glance
1. Prepare th e m eats, fa t, and
2.
g rind the main in g re d ie n t
well.
tw ice, using f ir s t a coarse

and then a m edium die.
Cut the m eats and fa t
R e frig e ra te or hold the
into s trip s or 1 in /2 .5 cm
m ixtu re over ice.
dice. Add th e shallots,

seasonings, and Insta-cure
3.
Combine th e m eat m ix tu re
w ith the egg and cream ( if
required. Keep them chilled
using) and puree in a fo o d
a t all tim es.
processor.
If th e recipe calls fo r
O p t f o r wellexercised cuts of
meat f o r forcemeats,
since they have a richer flavor than
4.
( if using). M arina te them as
Grind the m eats and fa t.
expert tips
p rogressive grinding,
garnish ing re d ie nts; chill
5.
very tender cuts. However, meats to

be used as garnishes can easily be
the more delicate portions.
Fold in the garnish by hand,

w orking over ice. Test fo r
fla v o r and consistency.
1. chill both the equipment andthe 3. once ground,
th e fo rc e m e a t is m ixed in
in g re d ie n ts to help keep th e fo rc e m e a t below 40 F /4 C
o rd e r to blend any seasonings, panadas, o r o th e r in g re d i
and o u t o f th e danger zone. T em perature c o n tro l is also
ents th o ro u g h ly and evenly. M ore im p o rta n t, an adequate
the key to achieving th e b e st re su lts. W hen fo rc e m e a ts are
m ixing pe rio d is crucial to th e de velopm e nt o f th e co rre c t
ke p t w e ll chille d th ro u g h o u t processing, m ixing, and co o k
te x tu re . M ix in g can be done by be a tin g the fo rc e m e a t
ing, th e y req uire less fa t, y e t s till have a sm oo th te x tu re
w ith a ru b b e r spa tula o r w ooden spoon over an ice bath, in
and an appealing m o u th fe e l. The fla v o r o f th e fo rc e m e a t
a m ixer, o r in a fo o d processor. Care should be take n not
its e lf is g e ne rally b e tte r, as w ell. To prepare the m eat and
to overm ix, e sp ecially when you use a m achine. Depend
fa tb a c k fo r a fo rc e m e a t, trim it o f any g ris tle , sinew, or
ing on the am ount o f p ro d u ct, one to th re e m inutes a t the
skin. Cut the m eat in to a dice, so it can drop easily throu gh
lo w est speed should be s u ffic ie n t. The fo rce m e a t's color
the fee d tub e o f a g rin d e r o r be q u ickly processed to a
and te x tu re w ill change s lig h tly when it is p ro p e rly mixed.
paste in a fo o d processor.
4. fold any garnish into theforcemeat
2. some forcemeat formulas win
by hand, w o rk in g over an ice w a te r bath. See th e M ethod
call fo r some or all o f the m eats and fa t to be ground using
in D e ta il f o r M ousseline Forcem eat, pages 9 9 0 to 992, fo r
a m ethod called progressive grinding. Review the recipe to
m ore in fo rm a tio n on te s tin g and u tiliz in g fo rce m e a t.
determ ine if you w ill need one or more grinding plates. Grind
the m eat d ire c tly in to a w ell-chilled bowl se t over ice.
basic formula
Mousseline Forcemeat
^
i i a r ge egg or egg white
n>
QJ
(1 lb/454 g)
1 tsp/3 g salt
1 lb/454 g meat, fish, or
other main ingredient
8 f| OZ/ 2 40 mL heavy cream
method at-a-glance
Cut th e m eat or o th e r main
4. W ith the m achine running,
in g re d ie n t in to a dice. Keep
add cold heavy cream in
it very cold.
a th in stream . Process
th e m ix tu re ju s t u n til the
2. Grind th e m eat to a paste
cream is in co rp o ra ted .
in a fo o d processor.
3. If the recipe requires
5. Add the bloom ed g e la tin

or aspic, i f d esired or
eggs, add th em and pulse
necessary, in th e same
th e m achine on and o ff to
manner.
in co rp o ra te them in to the
meat.
Push the fo rc e m e a t
th ro ug h a drum sieve.
c h a p t e r 30 C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R
989
1. once the ingredients areproperly

ground, m ix o r process them , com b in ing th e ground m eat
w ith a secondary binder, if desired. A fo rc e m e a t is m ore
than sim p ly ground m eat. In o rd e r to produce th e desired
te x tu re , th e in g re d ie n ts m ust be m ixed long enough to
develop a good bind. This may be done by hand in a bowl
over an ice w a te r bath, w ith an e le c tric mixer, or in a fo o d
processor.
method in detail
2. process the mixture to a sm oo th con
sisten cy. This encourages th e fo rc e m e a t to hold to g e th e r
w e ll when sliced. A dd in g re d ie n ts such as cold cream
g ra d u a lly as th e p ro cesso r runs f o r a sm oo th te x tu re and
to hold th e in g re d ie n ts to g e th e r a fte r cooking.
990
3. when the forcemeat
has th e desired
te x tu re , push it th ro u g h a drum sieve. Test f o r fla v o r and
consistency. S tra ig h t, c o u n try -s ty le , and g ra tin fo r c e
rD
m eats are n o t ty p ic a lly p u t th ro u g h a sieve. However, a

m ousseline fo rc e m e a t may be sieved to produce a very
r"h
fin e and d e lic a te te x tu re . Be sure th a t th e fo rc e m e a t is
C /a
ve ry cold, and w o rk ra p id ly to avoid w a rm in g it.

Taste th e fo rc e m e a t f o r fla v o r and con sisten cy. Poach
a b ite -s iz e p o rtio n o f th e fo rc e m e a t so th a t it can be
eva lu ated (see Q uenelles, page 992). Be sure to ta s te the
fo rc e m e a t a t se rvin g te m p e ra tu re . If it is to be served
cold, le t th e sam ple cool c o m p le te ly b e fo re ta s tin g it.
M ake any necessary a d ju stm e n ts in th e fo rc e m e a t. If it
has a ru b b e ry o r to u g h con sisten cy, add heavy cream; if
it does n o t hold to g e th e r p ro p e rly, a d d itio n a l panada or
egg w h ite s may be necessary. A d ju s t th e seasoning and
fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts as needed. P e rfo rm a new ta s te te s t
a fte r each a d ju s tm e n t u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the
fo rce m e a t.
4. garnish the forcemeat,
if desired,
and use as a s tu ffin g o r fillin g , o r place it in to a prepared

m old and cook it. Fold garnishes such as p ista ch io nuts,
t ru ffle s , o r diced ham in to th e fo rc e m e a t by hand, w o rkin g
over an ice bath. Keep th e fo rc e m e a t ve ry cold u n til you
are ready to shape it. It m ay be spread, piped, o r spooned
in to o th e r fo o d s as a fillin g , o r used to f ill a prepared
m old.
The m old should be lined so th a t the pate or te rrin e
can be rem oved easily f o r s licin g in to servings. Cut sheets
o f lin e r large enough to hang over th e sides and ends o f the
mold. These w ill la te r be fo ld e d back over th e to p o f the
pate o r te rrin e to fo rm a cover. P la stic w rap is o fte n used,
b u t o th e r w ra p p e rs tra d itio n a l and c o n te m p o ra ry may
be used in a d d itio n to o r in place o f th e plastic. One o f
the m ore e lab orate garde m anger p re p a ra tio n s is pate en
croute. Lining a m old w ith p a s try is shown on page 1009.
99i
5. smooth the forcemeat using an

o ffs e t p a le tte kn ife . Once th e te rrin e m old has been fille d
and th e to p is sm ooth, fo ld th e excess pan liner over the
fo rc e m e a t to seal th e te rrin e . Cook as d ire c te d in the
recipe.
A good fo rc e m e a t is w e ll seasoned and ta s te s p re
d o m in a n tly o f th e main m eat w ith a rich, pleasant fla v o r
and m o u th fe e l. The te x tu re should be fa irly sm oo th and
have a u n ifo rm co n siste n cy by typ e , and it should hold
to g e th e r w e ll when cut. Garnishes should com p le m e nt the
fla v o r o f th e fo rc e m e a t w ith o u t ove rw h elm ing it.
D epending on the g rin d in g and e m u ls ify in g m ethods
and th e in te nd ed use, th e fo rc e m e a t can have a sm ooth
co n siste n cy o r be heavily te x tu re d and coarse. M ousseline fo rc e m e a ts have a sm ooth, lig h t te x tu re th a t is not
a t all rubbery. A c o u n try -s ty le fo rc e m e a t is less re fin e d
in te x tu re and h e a rtie r in fla v o r than o th e r fo rce m e a ts. A
g ra tin fo rc e m e a t has q u a lity c h a ra c te ris tic s s im ila r to a
c o u n try -s ty le fo rce m e a t.
If
QUENELLES
There are many ways to prepare and use a force
meat. Depending on the desired result, quenelles
(about iyoF/yyC). The cooking time will vary,
are an excellent way to make individual portions
depending on the diameter of the quenelles. They
of forcemeat. Quenelles are poached dumplings
should appear completely cooked through when
made from mousseline forcemeat. They may be
broken open.
prepared to serve as an appetizer or as a garnish

for soups. They are also the best size to check for
flavor, texture, color, and consistency in a finished
forcemeat to safeguard against producing terrines
or pates that have poor quality.
1. Bring the poaching liquid to a simmer. The liquid
must not be at a rolling boil. This could cause the
quenelles to fall apart as they cook.
2.
Shape the quenelles. There are many ways to shape

quenelles, one of which employs two spoons (see
photo). Other methods include using ladles or piping
the mixture through a plain-tipped pastry bag.
Scoop up an appropriate amount of the
forcemeat with one of the spoons, and use the
second spoon to smooth and shape the mixture.
Push the quenelle from the spoon into the
poaching medium.
992
3. Poach the quenelles in barely simmering liquid
Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings

SALMON MOUSSELINE
2
lb /9 0 7 g skinless salmon fillet
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V 4 ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
/. Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow

it to cool slightly. Weight it with a press plate and a
2-lb/907-g weight, if desired. Refrigerate the terrine
at least overnight or up to 2 to 3 days.
8 . Slice and serve the terrine, or wrap and refrigerate
for up to 4 days.
NOTE: This form ula w ill produce a good texture fo r terrines
and other items tha t w ill be sliced. For tim bales or similar
applications tha t can be softer, the quantity o f cream can
be almost doubled.
2 egg whites
F lounder M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount
4 o z /1 13 g shelled crayfish tails
o f ground or diced flounder fo r the salmon in the

mousseline.
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced salmon

4 o z/1 1 3 g diced scallops
2 tb sp /6 g minced tarragon
Blanched leek leaves, as needed
1 . Cut the salmon fillet into strips or cubes and season

with salt and pepper; chill to below 40F/4C. Grind
the salmon in a food processor or through the fine
plate of a meat grinder into a bowl set over an ice
water bath.
2 . Puree the salmon in a food processor until it is al

most a smooth paste. Add the egg whites and pulse
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Seafood and Salmon

Terrine
until mixed well.
3 . Add the cream, 1 to 2 fl oz/30 to 60 mL at a time,

until it reaches the desired consistency (run the food
processor until the cream is just incorporated and
scrape down the sides of the bowl to blend evenly),
or gradually add the cream by hand over an ice water
bath. Do not overmix.
4 . Push the mousseline through a drum sieve.

5 . Test the mousseline by poaching a small amount in
sary before proceeding. (The mousseline is ready to
use now in other applications, if desired.) Fold in the
crayfish, salmon, scallops, and tarragon.
6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and leek
leaves. Pack the garnished mousseline into the mold
and fold over the liners to completely seal the ter
rine. Cover the terrine and poach in a i7O0F/77C
water bath in a 300F/i49C oven to an internal tem
perature of i 65F/74C, 60 to 70 minutes.
c h a p te r 30 C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
993
Pate Grand-Mere
6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the

ham slices, leaving an overhang. Sprinkle the ham
with black pepper, pack the forcemeat into the mold,
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g chicken livers, sinews removed
and fold over the liners. Cure the terrine overnight
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
in the refrigerator.
1 o z/2 8 g shallots, minced
7 . Cover the terrine with its lid and poach in a

170F/77C water bath in a 300F/i49C oven to an
l
'/ 2
tb sp /1 5 g salt
1 ts p /2 g coarsely ground black

pepper, plus more as needed
minutes.
8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
it to cool to an internal temperature of 90F/32CC
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground bay leaf
to
V 2 tsp /1 g ground thyme
weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
1 ts p /2 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)

1 lb 1 o z/4 8 2 g pork butt, cubed
2 '/2 o z/71 g crustless white bread, cut into small dice
2 eggs
3 f I o z/9 0 mL heavy cream
V* ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper
Pinch freshly ground nutmeg
8 thin slices ham ('/16 in/1.50 mm), or as needed
6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic
(page 995), melted (optional)
1 . Sear the livers briefly in a large saute pan with hot

oil; remove the livers from the pan and reserve un
der refrigeration.
2 . Reduce the heat under the pan to low and saute the
shallots. Deglaze with the brandy and add the mix
ture to the livers. Mix in the salt, black pepper, bay
leaf, thyme, TCM, and 1 tbsp/15 mL oil. Chill
thoroughly
3 . Grind the pork butt, liver mixture, and parsley

through the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder
into a mixer bowl over an ice bath. Chill again.
4 . Combine the bread and milk and let soak to form a

panada. Add the eggs, cream, white pepper, and nut
meg. Using a paddle, mix with the ground meats on
medium speed for 1 minute, until homogeneous.
5 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in

994
internal temperature of i65F/74C, 60 to 75
ioo F/38C.
Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of plas

tic on top, add enough aspic to coat and cover the
terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
9 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap

and refrigerate it for up to 10 days.
1 . Mix the all ingredients for the clarification and

blend with the stock. Mix well.
Makes 32 fl 02/960 m L
2 *. Bring the mixture to a slow simmer, stirring fre

CLARIFICATION
quently, until a raft forms.
12 o z/3 4 0 g ground beef
3 . Add the sachet depices and simmer until the ap

propriate flavor and clarity are achieved, about 45
3 o z/8 5 g tomato concasse (see page 636)
minutes. Baste the raft occasionally.
4 o z/1 1 3 g Mirepoix (page 243)
4 . Strain the consomme; season with salt and pepper.

5 . Soften the gelatin in cold water, then melt over sim
3 egg whites, beaten
mering water. Add to the clarified stock. Cover and
1 q t/9 6 0 mL stock (see Chefs Note)
refrigerate until needed. Warm as necessary for use.
'A standard Sachet dEpices (page 241)
CHEF'S NOTE: Choose an appropriate stock, depending
'A tsp /1 g salt
upon the intended use. For example, if the aspic is to be
used to coat a seafood item, prepare a lobster stock and
Powdered gelatin (see table below), as needed
use ground fish fo r the clarification.
Ratios fo r Aspic
RATIO PER G A L L O N
RATIO PER P IN T
GEL S TR E N G TH
P O S S IB LE USES
2 o z /5 7 g
lA o z /7 g
D e lica te gel
W hen slic in g is n o t re q u ire d . Ind ivid ual

p o rtio n o f m eat, veg etab le , o r fis h
bound by g e la tin . Jellied consom m es
4 o z /1 1 3 g
V 2 o z /1 4 g
C o atin g gel
Edible ch a u d -fro id . C o atin g in d ivid u a l

ite m s
6 to 8 o z /1 7 0 to 2 2 7 g
1 o z /2 8 g
S licea ble gel
W hen p ro d u c t is to be sliced. F illin g pate

en cro u te , head cheese
10 to 12 o z /2 8 4 to
340 g
lV 4 tO 1 V 2 0Z /3 5
to 43 g
Firm gel
C o a tin g p la tte rs w ith u n d e rla ym e n t fo r

fo o d show o r c o m p e titio n
1 6 o z /4 5 4 g
2 o z /5 7 g
M ousse s tre n g th
W hen p ro d u c t m u st re ta in shape a fte r
Aspic
unm olding. P ro d u ctio n o f a m ousse
995
Chicken and Crayfish

Terrine
Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings
7 . Let the terrine rest at least overnight and up to 3

days in the refrigerator, weighted if desired with a
press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight.
MOUSSELINE
NOTE: If desired, line the mold with plastic wrap and
1 lb /4 5 4 g ground chicken breast
then thinly sliced ham before packing the mold with
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
forcemeat.
'/> tsp /1 g ground black pepper

2 egg whites
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Shellfish Essence (recipe follows), cold
Shellfish Essence
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, cold

GARNISH
1 lb /4 5 4 g crayfish, shrimp, or lobster shells
8 o z/2 2 7 g cooked, shelled, and deveined crayfish tails
2 chipotles in adobo, seeded and minced
4 o z/1 1 3 g stemmed shiitake mushrooms,
sliced, sauteed, and chilled
3 bay leaves
1 tb sp /3 g chopped dill
2 ts p /4 g poultry seasoning
1 tb sp /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
1 . Puree the chicken, salt, and pepper in a food proces
2 tb s p /3 0 mL glace de volaille or glace de viande
sor until smooth. Add the egg whites and pulse until
combined. Add the shellfish essence and cream with
the machine running, and pulse just to incorporate.
Pass through a drum sieve.
2 .. Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in

3 . Fold in the crayfish tails, chipotles, mushrooms, ci

lantro, and dill, working over an ice water bath.
4 . Oil a terrine mold and line it with plastic wrap, leav

ing an overhang of at least 4 in/10 cm on all sides.
Pack the forcemeat into the lined mold, making sure
to remove any air pockets. Fold the plastic wrap liner
over the forcemeat to completely encase the terrine;
cover.
5 . Poach the terrine in a 170F/77C water bath in a

300F/i49C oven to an internal temperature of
i65F/74C, 60 to 75 minutes.
6 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it
to cool slightly.
1 . In a medium sautoir, heat the oil over high heat.

Add the shells and saute until they turn bright red.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the shallots and
garlic, and saute until they are aromatic.
2 . Add the cream, bay leaves, poultry seasoning, and

chili powder. Reduce the mixture to half of its origi
nal volume. Add the glace.
3 . Strain through cheesecloth, squeezing to extract all

liquid. Chill to below 40F/4C.
4 , The essence is ready to use now, or to be stored un

der refrigeration.
Country-Style Terrine
(Pate de Campagne)
2 . To make the panada, combine the cream, eggs,

bread, brandy, salt, and pepper in a small bowl;
whisk together until smooth, and then add to the
ground meats. Using a paddle, mix on low speed for
1 minute, until homogeneous. Increase the speed to
1 lb /4 5 4 g veal shoulder, cubed
medium and mix until the forcemeat feels sticky to
10 o z/2 8 4 g pork butt, cubed
the touch.
10 o z/2 8 4 g fatback, cubed
3 . Test the forcemeat and adjust seasoning if necessary

before proceeding.
SEASONINGS
4 o z/1 1 3 g shallot, finely chopped
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt
4 . Combine all of the garnish ingredients and fold into

the forcemeat.
5 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the
ham slices, leaving an overhang. Sprinkle the ham
1 tb sp /6 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
with white pepper, pack the forcemeat into the

mold, and fold over the liners. Cure the terrine over
V2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper, plus more as needed

V b ts p /0.30 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
night in the refrigerator.

6 . Cover the terrine and poach in a i70F/77C water
2 garlic cloves, minced, sauteed, and cooled
bath in a 300F/i49C oven to an internal tempera
PANADA
ture of 150F/66C, 60 to 75 minutes.

it to cool to an internal temperature of 90F/32C
2 eggs
to iooF/38C. Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
V a cup/60 mL Pullman loaf
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of
plastic on top, add enough aspic to coat, cover the


GARNISH
6 o z/1 7 0 g diced smoked ham
6 o z/1 7 0 g diced fatback
4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted and chopped almonds
3 o z/8 5 g dried raisins, quartered
and plumped in white wine
2 tb sp /6 g chives, cut into V H n /l- c m lengths
8 thin slices ham ('/i6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed

6 to 8 o z/1 8 0 to 24 0 mL Aspic (page 995),
melted (optional)
T . Toss the veal, pork, and fatback with all the season
ings. Grind through the coarse plate (Vs in/9 mm)
of a meat grinder. Reserve half of the mixture, then
grind the remainder through the fine plate (Vs in i
3 mm) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over an
ice bath.
garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and sherry and mix until

evenly blended.
7 . Add the cream and pulse until just incorporated
Makes 2 lb 8 02/1.13 kg, 16 to 18 servings
(scrape down the sides of the bowl to blend evenly), or gradually add it by hand over an ice water
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL M eat Brine (recipe follows)

3 star anise pods, crushed
bath. Push the forcemeat through a drum sieve.

8 . Fold the mushrooms into the forcemeat by hand
over an ice water bath.
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped ginger

2 ts p /4 g Szechwan peppercorns, crushed

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g pork tenderloin, trimmed

MOUSSELINE
1 0 . Cut a large rectangle of plastic wrap. Spread half of
1 lb 3 o z/5 3 9 g lean pork trim or

boneless chicken breast
the mousseline on the plastic. Place the tenderloin

in the middle and spread the other half of the force
meat evenly over the tenderloin. Roll tightly into a
2'/z o z/71 g egg whites, cold
cylinder and secure the ends with twine.
1 1 . Poach the roulade at 170F/77C in simmer

ing water to cover to an internal temperature of
i6oF/7iC.
r
/4
ts p /6 .2 5 mL dark soy sauce

1 2 . Remove the roulade from the water and cool to
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sherry, cold
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream, cold
below 40F/4C.
1 3 . Unwrap the roulade. Cut a fresh piece of plastic
6 o z/1 7 0 g thinly sliced mushrooms
wrap, brush with the glace, and scatter with the

sesame seeds and parsley. Top with the cooled rou
2 tb sp /3 0 mL glace de volaille or viande, warm
lade and rewrap tightly. Refrigerate the roulade for
V 2 o z/2 8 g toasted sesame seeds
at least 24 hours or up to 2 days before slicing and

serving.
1 . Mix together the meat brine, star anise, ginger, and

peppercorns in a small sauce pot and infuse over
Pork Tenderloin
Roulade
Meat Brine
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
low heat for about 5 minutes. Chill the infused

brine over an ice water bath.
2 . Cover the pork with the brine mixture and use

small plates to keep it completely submerged. Re
frigerate for 12 hours.
1 2 o z /3 4 0 g s a lt
6 o z/1 7 0 g dextrose
2
V 2 o z/71 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
3 . Rinse the tenderloin and dry well. Reserve under

refrigeration.
4 . To make the mousseline, cut the pork trim into
Dissolve the salt, dextrose, and TCM in the water.

Use as needed.
strips or dice and season with the salt. Chill to be

low 40F/4C.
5 . Grind the pork trim in a food processor or through

the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder into a
bowl set over an ice water bath.
6 . Puree the ground pork in a food processor until it
is almost a smooth paste. Pulse in the egg whites,
ch a p te r 30 C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
999
Chicken Galantine
1 . Remove the skin from the chicken, keeping it

intact. Remove the wing tips and bone out the
chicken, keeping the breast whole. Separate the

tenderloins from the breast and reserve the breast.
One 3-lb /1.36-kg chicken

Salt and ground black pepper, as needed
2 . Cut the chicken tenderloins into cubes (V2 to %

in/i to 2 cm). Season with salt, black pepper, and
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Madeira
Madeira. Marinate the tenderloin meat under re

PANADA
frigeration for at least 3 hours.
2 eggs
3 . Butterfly the chicken breast meat and pound it

Vi in/3 mm thick. Place on a sheet pan lined with
3 tb s p /4 5 m L brandy
plastic wrap, cover with plastic, and refrigerate.
1 ts p /2 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
4 . To make the panada, mix the eggs with the brandy,
pate spice, flour, salt, and white pepper. Temper

1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
the egg mixture with hot cream. Add the cream to
Va ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper
the egg mixture and cook over low heat until thick
ened. Chill.
5 . Weigh the leg and thigh meat from the chicken.

1 lb /4 5 4 g pork butt, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes, cold
Add an equal amount of pork butt, or enough for
4 o z/1 1 3 g fresh ham or cooked tongue,

cut into '/t-in /e-m m cubes
approximately 2 lb/907 g of meat. Grind the chick

en and pork twice, using the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm)
of a meat grinder, into a bowl over an ice water
3 tb sp /2 5 g chopped black truffles
bath.
4 o z/1 1 3 g pistachios, blanched
6 . Add the panada to the ground meat mixture. Blend
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
well. Fold in the marinated chicken and Madeira,
V2 tsp /1 g coarsely ground black pepper
the ham, truffles, and pistachios. Mix well.
Chicken Broth (page 263) or fortified stock, as needed
If necessary, use a knife to remove the
Roll the chicken breast and skin around
leg o f the chicken. Gently remove the
last o f the skin from the wing tip s of
the forcem eat.
skin from the chicken w ith your hands,
the chicken.
Cut the skin free from the jo in t near the
being careful not to puncture the skin.
lO O O
down tightly to remove any air pockets. Cover the
with salt and black pepper. Add the forcemeat and
terrine mold.
roll the galantine securely.

8.
the mold up to the inner lip and press the pieces
and lay the pounded chicken breast on top. Season
4 . Poach the terrine in a hot water bath, maintaining
Poach the galantine in a narrow, deep vessel in
it at a constant i6oF/7iC, for 45 to 50 minutes.
enough broth to cover at 170F/77C, to an internal
The oven temperature may need to be adjusted to
temperature of i65F/74C, 60 to 70 minutes.
9 . Transfer the galantine and poaching liquid to a
keep the water at a constant temperature. If it gets

too hot, add cold water immediately to lower the
storage container. Let it cool to room temperature.
temperature. Foie gras has the best texture and
Remove the galantine from the stock, and wrap it
flavor when cooked to an internal temperature of
in plastic wrap to form a tighter, rounder roll; chill
98F/37C. (However, be sure to check with your
at least 12 hours.
10 . To serve the galantine, unwrap, remove the cheese

cloth, and slice it.
local and state health authorities for any regulatory

differences.)
5 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and rest it

for 2 hours at room temperature. Pour off the fat.
NOTES: Classically, galantines are wrapped in cheesecloth
Cover the terrine with a press plate and top with a 1
and poached in fo rtifie d chicken stock.
to 2-lb/454 to 9 0 7 -g weight. Refrigerate the terrine
If desired, add sliced, sauteed shiitake mushrooms when

fo ld in g in the garnish in step 6.
for at least 24 hours and up to 48 hours to mellow

and mature.
6 . Remove the plastic wrap and carefully remove the
congealed fat. Tightly rewrap the terrine in fresh
plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to slice and
Foie Gras Terrine

serve the terrine, or refrigerate for up to 3 days.

NOTES: To determ ine the amount o f foie gras needed to
f ill any size terrine mold, simply measure the volume o f
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg foie gras, grade A

V A o z/3 5 g salt
water the terrine can hold. The number o f fluid ounces/
7 . Lay out the reserved skin on rinsed cheesecloth
m illilite rs o f volume w ill correlate to the number of

ounces/grams o f weight o f foie gras necessary to fill the

V 2 tsp /1 g ground ginger
V* ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white wine or
Sauternes, Armagnac, or Cognac
1 . Clean the livers, remove all veins, and dry well.
mold.
For easier service, slice the terrine w ith the plastic wrap
on. Remove the plastic a fte r the slices have been plated.
A warm beveled knife works best.
Save the fa t removed in step 5 to use to saute
vegetables or potatoes.
If desired, add sliced, sauteed shiitake mushrooms when
fo ld in g in the garnish in step 6.
Combine 1 oz/28 g of the salt, 1 tsp/2 g of the pepper,

the sugar, ginger, TCM, and wine in medium bowl.
Refrigerate the livers in the mixture overnight.
2 . Line a 2-lb/c)07-g terrine mold with plastic wrap.

3 . Place the foie gras on a cutting board, separate the
lobes, and select large pieces that will fit snugly into
the mold, slicing the liver if necessary. Place them
in the mold so that the smooth sides of the foie gras
pieces form the exterior of the terrine; season as
needed with the remaining salt and pepper. Fill
Foie Gras Roulade: Prepare the foie gras as directed fo r

the terrine. Arrange the marinated fo ie gras on a large
sheet o f plastic wrap. Wrap tig h tly around the foie gras
to form a roulade. If desired, insert whole tru ffle s into
the fo ie gras lobes before rolling the roulade. (Truffles
must be cleaned and poached prior to use as an internal
garnish. If using canned tru ffle s, this has already been
done.) Poach in a 160F/71C water bath to an internal
tem perature o f 11 0F/43C. Remove from the water,
cool, and rewrap, tightening slightly. Refrigerate the
roulade fo r at least 24 hours before slicing.
1001
Venison Terrine
2 lb /9 0 7 g venison shoulder or leg meat
1 lb /4 5 4 g fatback
2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine
V 2 tsp /1 g ground cloves
5 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and al

low it to cool to an internal temperature of 90 to
iooF/32 to 38C. If desired, weight it with a press
plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight. Let the terrine rest in
the refrigerator overnight.
1 tb sp /6 g crushed black peppercorns

1 ts p /2 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
1 o z/2 8 g minced onions, sauteed and cooled
1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 o z/2 8 g dried cepes or morels, ground to a powder
3 eggs
Duck Terrine with

Pistachios and Dried
Cherries

1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g duck meat, trimmed

and cubed (from a 4 to 5 -lb /1 .8 1 to
2.2 7-kg bird), breast meat reserved
8 o z/2 2 7 g fatback
GARNISH
2 o z/5 7 g golden raisins, plumped
in 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL brandy
4 o z/1 1 3 g mushrooms, diced, sauteed, and cooled
8 thin ham slices ('/i6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed
'/t ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
1 . Dice the venison and fatback into i-in/3-cm cubes.

Combine them with the wine, cloves, peppercorns,
TCM, onions, salt, pepper, and dried cepes and
marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
2 . Prepare a straight forcemeat by grinding the mari

nated venison and fatback first through a coarse
4 o z /1 13 g ham, cut into small dice

3 o z/8 5 g roasted and peeled pistachios
2 '/t o z/71 g dried cherries
8 thin ham slices [Vi6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed
grinding plate (% in/9 mm), rechilling, and grinding

a second time through a fine grinding plate (Vs in/3
1 . Combine 1 lb/454 g f the duck meat, reserving the
mm) into a chilled mixer bowl. Using a paddle, mix
breast meat for garnish, with the fatback, salt, sage,
in the eggs, cream, tarragon, and parsley on medium
pepper, parsley, and TCM in a chilled medium bowl.
speed for 1 minute, or until homogeneous. Fold in
Grind through the medium plate ( lA in/6 mm) and
the raisins and mushrooms.
then the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder.
3 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and the ham,

leaving an overhang. Pack the forcemeat into the ter
rine mold and fold over the ham and plastic. Cover
the terrine with its lid.
4 . Poach the terrine in a i7O0F/77C water bath in a

300F/i49C oven to an internal temperature of
1002
2 . Sear the diced duck breast meat and ham in the oil
and let them cool.

simmering salted water in a small saute pan. Adjust
seasoning if necessary before proceeding.
4 . Fold the seared duck and ham, pistachios, and cherries

into the forcemeat, working over an ice water bath.
Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and the ham slic
Let the terrine rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
es, leaving an overhang, then pack with the forcemeat.
Weight it with a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight
Fold the ham liner and then the plastic over the terrine
overnight or up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
and cover the mold. Poach in a 170F/77C water bath
The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
in a 300F/i49C oven to an internal temperature of
wT
Duck Terrine w ith Pistachios and

Dried Cherries
Chicken Liver Pate

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g chicken livers,
cleaned, sinews removed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL milk, or as needed for soaking
Duck and Smoked

Ham Terrine
1 lb 3 o z/5 3 9 g boneless skinless
duck leg and thigh meat
1 o z/2 8 g salt
'A ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
9 3A o z/2 7 6 g fatback
VA o z/3 5 g butter
VA skinless duck breasts, cut into V H n /l-c m dice

15 o z/4 2 5 g smoked ham, cut into ' / 2-in /l-c m dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g fatback, cut into medium dice
VA ts p /3 .7 5 g minced garlic
V2 tsp /1 g ground allspice
2/2
fl o z/7 5 mL port
V2 tsp /1 g dry mustard

V/ 2 o z/4 3 g fresh white bread crumbs
VA tb sp /8 g all-purpose flour
'A ts p /0 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sherry
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
3 o z/8 5 g bread flour
le g g
2 ts p /9.50 g powdered gelatin
3 eggs
VA ts p /2 .50 g coarsely ground black pepper

3A ts p /1.50 g poultry seasoning
1 . Soak the livers in the milk with 1V2 tsp/5 g f the salt
and the TCM for 12 to 24 hours in a covered, me
6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic
(page 995) melted (optional)
dium bowl.
2 . Drain the livers well and pat dry with paper towels.
3 . Puree the livers, shallots, garlic, fatback, pepper, all
spice, mustard, bread crumbs, sherry, flour, gelatin,
and eggs in a blender to a smooth, loose paste.
4 . Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a

stainless-steel bowl and stir in the cream. Refrigerate
the mixture for 2 hours.
5 . Pour the mixture into a terrine mold lined with

plastic wrap, cover, and poach in a 170F/77C water
1 . Cut the leg and thigh meat and the fatback into
V2-in/i-cm dice. Reserve under refrigeration.
2 . To prepare the garnish, melt the butter in a saute

pan. Brown the duck breast and ham. Remove and
reserve under refrigeration. Sweat the shallots and
garlic in the same pan. Add the port and reduce to a
thick syrup. Add to the seared meat and chill well.
3 . Combine the leg meat mixture with the flour, TCM,

and salt; toss to coat evenly. Progressively grind from
the coarse (% in/9 mm) through the fine plate (Vs
bath in a 300F/i49C oven to an internal tempera
in/3 m m ) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over
ture of i65F/74C, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove the
an ice water bath.
terrine from the oven and allow it to cool at room

temperature for 30 minutes.
6 . Weight with a press plate and a i-lb/454-g weight and
refrigerate overnight before unmolding and slicing.
NOTE: For Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, see the note fo r
Seafood Pate en Croute on page 1008.
4 . Add the egg and heavy cream to the ground meats.

Using a paddle, mix on medium speed for 1 minute,
until homogeneous. Add the black pepper and poul
try seasoning; mix to incorporate.
5 . Test the forcemeat and adjust seasoning if necessary

before proceeding.
6 . Fold the garnish mixture into the forcemeat by hand
over an ice water bath.
1004
/. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an
overhang. Pack the forcemeat into the mold, and
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of plas
fold over the liner. Cover the terrine and bake in a
tic on top, add enough aspic to coat and cover the
170F/77C water bath in a 300F/i49C oven to an
internal temperature of i 65F/74C, 60 to 75 minutes.
The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
it to cool to an internal temperature of 90F/32C

ioo F/38C.
Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
to
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Duck and Smoked Ham Terrine, Chicken Galantine (page 1000),
Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, and Crayfish and Chicken Terrine (page 996)
1005
Pate Dough
Makes
lb
12 o z /1.25
kg
3 . Add the eggs, vinegar, and 4 to 5 fl oz/i2o to 150 mL

of milk. Mix on speed 1 until it just forms into a ball.
The dough should be moist yet dry; if it does not hold
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g bread flour, sifted
V/2 o z/4 3 g nonfat dry milk

2'A ts p /6 .75 g baking powder
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
3Vi o z/9 9 g shortening
2'A o z/71 g unsalted butter
2 medium eggs
1 tb s p /1 5 mL white vinegar
together and is not moist enough, then add more

milk. If the ball is formed and moist but dry, then mix
on speed 2 for 3 to 4 minutes to develop the gluten.
4 . Remove the dough from the mixer and knead by

hand until smooth, tucking in all the ends as you
would to shape a ball of bread. Square it off.
5 . Wrap in plastic wrap and rest for a minimum of 30

minutes (for best results, overnight) in the refrigera
tor before rolling and cutting the dough to line the
terrine molds.
8 to 10 fl o z/2 4 0 to 300 mL milk, or as needed

NOTE: Pate dough is generally used to line a rectangular pate
1 . Place the flour, dry milk, baking powder, salt, short

ening, and butter in a food processor and pulse until
mold; therefore, it should be shaped into an appropriatesize rectangle prior to refrigeration.
the dough is a fine meal.
2 . Place the dough in a 20-qt electric mixer with a

paddle.
S a ffro n Pate Dough: Infuse 2 ts p /1 .6 0 g saffron in 5 f l

oz/150 mL warm water. Replace 5 f l oz/150 mL o f the
milk w ith the saffron water. If desired, add 2 tb s p /6 g
each chopped dill and chives in step 2.
the pate en croute. Cut 2 sm aller rectangles to cover the
cut the dough so th a t it w ill snugly line the inside o f the
ends o f the mold. Be sure to grease the mold before assem
mold. Cut a rectangle th a t w ill cover the bottom and 2 long
bling the pate en croute.
sides o f the mold w ith enough excess to cover the to p of
Gently line the pate en croute mold w ith the dough. Allow the
excess dough to hang over the sides o f the mold.
Use the pate en croute mold as a tem plate to measure and
Use the sm aller rectangles o f dough to line the ends o f the

mold. Press the seams o f the dough tog ether firm ly to cre
ate a tig h t seal.
1007
Seafood Pate en
Croute
Makes 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg, 18 to 20 servings
4 . Pack the forcemeat into the lined mold. Fold the

dough over, trim, and seal to completely encase the
pate.
5 . Cut a cap piece and lay it over the pate, tucking the
sides down into the mold. Cut and reinforce vent
6 o z /1 7 0 g shrimp
holes in the cap piece and brush the surface with
6 o z/1 7 0 g peeled crayfish tails
egg wash. Roll a tube of aluminum foil (known as a
chimney) to fit into the vent holes and keep them
1 o z/2 8 g small-dice truffles (optional)
from closing during baking.

6 . Place one piece of aluminum foil over the top of the
pate in a tented manner to avoid direct contact
12 o z/3 4 0 g Salmon Mousseline (page 993)
with the dough and bake at 450F/232C for 15 to 20
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Saffron Pate Dough (page 1006)
minutes. Remove the foil tent, reduce the heat to
350F/i77C, and finish baking to an interned tem

perature of 155F/68C, about 50 minutes.
Dry nori sheets, as needed (optional)
7 . Remove the pate from the oven and let it cool to 90

6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic (page 995)
to iooF/32 to 38C. Warm the aspic to noF/43C

and ladle it through a funnel into the pate through
1 . Peel and devein the shrimp and pat the crayfish tails
dry. Cut them into dice or julienne, if desired. Chill
to below 40F/4C.
the chimneys. Remove and discard the chimneys.

8 . Refrigerate the pate for at least 24 hours before slic
ing and serving.
2 . Working over an ice water bath, fold the shrimp,

crayfish, chives, basil, and truffles, if using, into the
mousseline by hand.
NOTE: When preparing the Salmon Mousselines on page 993,

replace 12 oz/340 g o f the salmon with diced shrimp, if
desired.
3 . Roll the dough out into a rectangle about Vs in/3 mm

thick. Cut pieces to line the bottom and sides of a
hinged pate mold (see photos); the dough should
overhang on all sides. Egg wash the inside of the dough
liner or add a second liner of nori sheets, if desired.
1008
For Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, line the dough with

ham and f ill the mold w ith Chicken Liver Pate (page
1004). Fold in garnishes such as cooked cubed chicken,
chopped herbs, or plumped, dried fru its as desired.
Use round cutters to create a vent hole in the top o f the
The finished pate en croute should be golden brown on
pate en croute to prevent the top from cracking. Reinforce
the edges and should not have any cracks in the top o f the
the vent hole and use aluminum fo il to create a chimney to
dough.
prevent the dough from closing in on itse lf.
1009
Vegetable Terrine
with Goat Cheese
7 . Cover the terrine and poach it in a 170F/77C wa

ter bath in a 300F/i49C oven to an internal tem
perature of i45F/63C, about 60 minutes.
it to cool slightly.
VEGETABLES
3 days, weighted if desired with a press plate and a
2 lb /9 0 7 g yellow squash
2-lb/go7-g weight.
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g eggplant
2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes
2 medium portobello mushrooms
MARINADE
2 ts p /6 g chopped rosemary
2 ts p /6 g anchovy paste or olive paste (optional)
2 ts p /6 g honey
2 ts p /6 g salt
V i tsp /1 g ground white pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced, sauteed, and cooled
8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh goat cheese

2 eggs
1 . Cut all the vegetables lengthwise into slices Vs in/3

mm thick.
2 . Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large

hotel pan, add the vegetables, and marinate the
vegetables for 1 hour.
3 . Remove the vegetables from the marinade and

place them in a single layer on sheet pans lined
with oiled parchment paper.
4 . Dry the vegetables in a 200F/93C oven until dry

but not brittle, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven
and cool to room temperature.
5 . Mix the goat cheese with the eggs.

6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an
overhang, and assemble the terrine by alternating
layers of vegetables and the cheese mixture until
the terrine is filled. Fold over the liner.
IOIO
9 . Refrigerate the terrine at least overnight and up to
2 lb /9 0 7 g zucchini
B RE A K F A S T A N D GA R D E M A N G E R
1 0 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap

Gravlax
Makes about 14 oz/397 g
Makes 20 servings
3 o z/8 5 g coriander seeds
41/io z /1 2 0 g s a lt
3 o z /8 5 g cloves
l 3/ t o z/5 0 g dried thyme
1 tb sp /6 g cracked black peppercorns
V A o z/5 0 g dried basil
3 o z/8 5 g chopped dill
I V 2 o z/4 3 g white peppercorns
V A o z/4 3 g grated nutmeg
1 o z/2 8 g dried cepes (optional)
3 lb /1.36 kg salmon fillet
'/ 2
tb sp /2 2.50 mL brandy
3/ t o z /2 1 g ground mace
/ 2
0 z / 1 4 g bay leaves
1 . Combine the salt, sugar, peppercorns, and dill in a

small bowl to make the dry cure.
Combine all the ingredients including the dried
2 . Combine the lemon juice and brandy in another
cepes, if using, and grind them using a mortar and
small bowl. Place the salmon on a piece of cheese
pestle or a spice grinder. Store any unused spice
cloth, skin side down, and brush this mixture on top.
blend in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
Pack the dry cure evenly on the salmon.
3 . Wrap the salmon tightly in the cheesecloth. Place

the wrapped salmon in a hotel pan, skin side down,
top with a second pan, and set a weight in the sec
ond pan.
4 . Let the salmon marinate in the refrigerator for 2 to 3

days. The salmon should be fairly firm in its thickest
area when fully cured.
5 . Unwrap the salmon and scrape off the cure. Gently
Pate Spice
rinse the salmon under cold water briefly and imme

diately pat dry.
6 . Slice the salmon thinly on the bias to serve.
Chapter 30 C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1011
baking and pastry
mise en Diace
To be successful in the baking and pastry arts, it is important to have
a basic understanding of how baking ingredients function and how
they react to each other. Knowledge of these principles and
processes will not only help you to follow any formula and p ro d u c^B
better quality products, but will also aid in developing formulas
of your own creation.
the functions of baking ingredients

The basic in g re d ie n ts used in baking ty p ic a lly f u lf ill
th e m w ith o th e r in g re d ie n ts, m ix the m w ith a sm all
m ore than one fu n c tio n in th e fin is h e d pro du ct. Eggs, fo r
am ount o f cool liquid. Tapioca sta rch is also com m only
exam ple, can a ct as a s ta b ilize r, leavener, a n d /o r th ic k
used to th icke n pie fillin g s .
ener. U n de rsta nding how in g re d ie n ts fu n c tio n w ill give

a che f the a b ility to cre a te balanced baking fo rm u la s
g e la t in
and to understand w h a t w e n t w ro n g when som e th in g
G elatin is used to produce light, de lica te fo a m s th a t are
d o e sn 't w ork.
firm ly set, such as Bavarian cream, mousse, and s ta b i

lized w h ipp ed cream . Such fo a m s re ta in the shape o f a
S T A B ILIZ E R S
A s ta b iliz e r is any in g re d ie n t th a t helps to develop the
solid s tru c tu re , or "fram ew ork," o f a fin is h e d pro du ct.
It does th is in one o f tw o ways, e ith e r by to u g h e n in g or
tig h te n in g a dough or by th ic k e n in g a m ixtu re . F lour and
eggs are exam ples o f in g re d ie n ts th a t lend s tru c tu re
m old even a fte r unm olding and can be sliced. A vailable in

bo th po w d er and sheets, g e la tin m ust f ir s t be so fte n e d
or bloom ed in a cool liquid. Once th e g e la tin has ab
sorbed th e liquid, it is g e n tly heated to m e lt the crystals,
e ith e r by adding th e s o fte n e d g e la tin to a h o t m ixture ,
such as a h o t cu sta rd sauce, or by g e n tly he atin g the
g e la tin over sim m e rin g w a te r.
(and n u tritio n a l value) to a fin is h e d pro du ct.

Flour acts as a binding and ab so rb in g agent. It is the
g lu te n (the p ro te in com p on ent in flo u r) th a t builds s tru c
tu re and s tre n g th in baked goods, whereas th e starch
pre se n t in th e flo u r makes a use ful thickener. When
starch granules suspended in w a te r are heated, th e y
begin to absorb liquid and swell, causing an increase in
the v is c o s ity o f th e m ixtu re . This rea ction , known as ge
lation, allow s starche s to be used as th ic k e n in g agents.
p e c t in
P ectin is a ca rb o h yd ra te derived fro m th e cell w alls
o f c e rta in fru its . Some com m on sources o f pe ctin are
apples, cran be rries, and curra nts. It requires th e c o rre c t
balance o f sugar and acid to gel.
LIQ U E FIE R S
D iffe re n t typ e s o f flo u rs have d iffe re n t g lu te n -to -
L iq u e f iers help to loosen o r te n d e rize a dough or b a t
sta rch ratio s, which w ill cre a te v a s tly d iffe re n t re s u lts in
ter. W ater, m ilk, and o th e r liquids, fa ts , and sugar act as
th e te x tu re , appearance, and fla v o r o f th e fin a l p ro d u ct
liq u e f iers.
when used in th e same fo rm u la .

Eggs lend a d d itio n a l s ta b ility du rin g baking. They in
A ltho ug h sugar has a te n d e n cy to tig h te n up a m ix

tu re when it is f ir s t in co rp o ra te d , th ro u g h its in te ra c tio n
flue nce the te x tu re and grain as w ell, and by fa c ilita tin g
w ith o th e r in g re d ie n ts and the heat o f baking, it u lti
the in c o rp o ra tio n and d is trib u tio n o f air, th e y p ro m o te
m a te ly a cts to loosen or liq u e fy a b a tte r or dough.
an even-grained and fin e te x tu re . Eggs act to thicke n
W a te r acts to d ilu te o r liq u e fy w a te r-s o lu b le in g re
th ro u g h th e coa gu latio n o f p ro te in s. As th e ir p ro te in s
die n ts such as sugar and sa lt. It also fa c ilita te s the even
begin to coagulate, liquid is tra p p e d in the n e tw o rk o f
d is trib u tio n o f sugar, salt, and ye a st in a dough if these
set p ro te in s, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth, ra th e r th ic k te x tu re .
in g re d ie n ts are m ixed th o ro u g h ly w ith th e w a te r b e fore
This is known as a p a r t i a l coagula tio n, w here th e p ro
in tro d u c in g th e rem a ining in g re d ie n ts in th e form ula.
te in s hold m oistu re; i f the m ix tu re were cooked or baked
W a te r also acts to leaven, as it changes to steam and
fu rth e r, th e p ro te in s w ould fu lly coa gu late and expel
expands.
water, causing th e p ro d u c t to curdle.

Eggs also have leavening power. As eggs (whole,
M ilk p e rfo rm s many o f the same fu n c tio n s as water,

b u t because o f its a d d itio n a l com p on ents (fa t, sugar,
yolks, or w h ite s) are w hipped, th e y tra p air th a t expands
m inerals, and pro te in ), it serves a num ber o f o th e r fu n c
when heated, re s u ltin g in a la rge r and lig h te r pro du ct.
tio n s and adds fla v o r as w ell. As th e sugar (la cto se) in
Several o th e r ty p ic a l s ta b iliz e r/th ic k e n e rs are:
m ilk caram elizes, it gives a rich co lo r to th e product's

surface, and it can also aid in d e velopm e nt o f a firm
a r r o w r o o t a n d c o r n s ta r c h
crust. The la c tic acid in m ilk has a tig h te n in g e ffe c t on
These are g e ne rally p re fe ra b le fo r th ic k e n in g sauces,
the p ro te in s in flo u r, w hich serves to increase s ta b ility ,
puddings, and fillin g s w here a tra n s lu c e n t e ffe c t is de
re s u ltin g in a p ro d u c t w ith a fin e grain and te x tu re .
sired. To d ilu te the se th icke n e rs b e fo re in co rp o ra tin g
1016
B A K IN G A N D PA ST RY
To s u b s titu te a ctive dry yea st f o r com pressed yeast,

use 40 p e rc e n t o f th e w e ig h t o f com pressed yeast
fin is h e d dough or pro du ct, it acts to increase the elas
called f o r in th e recipe. To s u b s titu te in s ta n t yeast, use
t ic it y o f the p ro te in s in th e flo u r, th e re b y helping the
33 p e rc e n t o f th e w eight. Sourdough s ta rte r is a yeast-
p ro d u c t expand du rin g baking. In baking, fa ts and oils
based leavener. In th is case, th e n a tu ra lly occu rring
are also c la s s ifie d as s h o rte n in g agents, a te rm derived
(w ild) ye a st is allow ed to fe rm e n t in a flo u r-w a te r m ix
fro m th e ir a b ility to s p lit th e long, e la s tic g lu te n strands
tu re over a p e rio d o f days or weeks. W ith regular fe e d
th a t can toughen flo u r-b a s e d doughs and b a tte rs . This
ings o f a d d itio n a l flo u r and w a te r, th e gro w in g s ta rte r
te n d e riz in g e ffe c t ren de rs th e strand s m ore su sce p tib le
is s tre n g th e n e d and m aintained f o r regular use in the
to bre aking (shortening), re s u ltin g in a m ore te n d e r and
p ro d u c tio n o f bread and o th e r baked ite m s in d e fin ite ly .
less dense crumb.
c h e m ic a l le a v e n e rs
LEAVEN ER S (B IO L O G IC A L, C H EM IC AL,
W ith baking soda and baking powder, an alkaline in g re d i
M E C H A N IC A L)
e n t (usually sodium bica rb o n a te ) in te ra c ts w ith an acid
To leaven is to raise o r to make lighter. There are several

ways to accom plish th is in baking: w ith yea sts (also
known as b io lo g ica l leaveners), w ith chem ical agents
such as baking pow der or baking soda, and th ro u g h
steam , also known as m echanical leavening. Each m e th
od is be st su ite d to s p e c ific a p p lica tio n s and all produce
very d iffe re n t re su lts. D iffe re n t leavening m etho ds may
be used alone o r in co n ju n ctio n w ith one an o th e r to yield
p a rtic u la r e ffe c ts .
b io lo g ic a l le a v e n e rs
O rganic leaveners are based on yeast, a livin g org an
ism th a t fe e d s on sugars and produces alcohol and
carbon dioxide, th e gas th a t lig h te n s a dough to give it
the p ro p e r te x tu re . U nlike chem ical leaveners, organic
leaveners ta ke a s u b s ta n tia l am ount o f tim e to do th e ir
jo b . The ye a st has to gro w and rep rod uce s u ffic ie n tly
to f ill the dough w ith air p o ckets. For th is to ta ke place,
the te m p e ra tu re m u st be c o n tro lle d ca re fu lly. Yeast w ill
n o t fu n c tio n w e ll betw een 50 to 6 0 F /1 0 to 16C, and
above 1 4 0 F /6 0 C th e ye a st is d e stro yed .
Fresh o r com pressed ye a st m ust be k e p t r e frig e r
ated (id e a lly a t 40 F /4 C ) to m aintain its v ia b ility . It may
be held fo r seven to ten days, or it may be fro z e n fo r
lo ng er storage. This ty p e o f ye a st com es in cake fo rm
and is usually m easured by w e ig h t ra th e r than volume.
A c tiv e d ry y e a st and in s ta n t ye a st are tw o typ e s o f
gra nu lar yeast. They should be ke p t re frig e ra te d a fte r
opening and m ust be k e p t d ry u n til use. A c tiv e dry or
alrea dy p re s e n t in baking powder, or in an in g re d ie n t

such as b u tte rm ilk , sour cream , yo g u rt, or chocolate, to
leaven th e p ro d u ct. (Baking pow der is a com b in ation o f
an alkali, an acid, and a starch.) The a lka li and acid p ro
duce carbon d io xid e when com bined in the presence o f
liquid. W hen he ated du rin g baking, th e carbon dioxide
expands and gives th e baked good its c h a ra cte ristic
te x tu re , known as crumb. This process o f expansion hap
pens rap id ly; hence, m any ite m s prepared w ith chem ical
leaveners are called "q uick breads.
D o u b le -a ctin g baking pow der is so called because
a f ir s t actio n occurs in th e presence o f m o istu re in the
the functions of baking ingredients
If th e to ta l am o un t o f f a t added to a dough o r b a t
te r equals no m ore than 3 p e rc e n t o f the w e ig h t o f the
b a tte r and a second a ctio n is in itia te d by th e presence

o f heat. T hat is, th e baking pow der re a cts once when it is
m ixed w ith th e b a tte r's liquids and again when the b a t
te r is placed in a h o t oven.
m e c h a n ic a l le a v e n e rs
Steam , w hich is produced when liquids in a b a tte r or
dough are heated, is a m echanical leavener th a t is som e
tim e s re fe rre d to as a physical leavener. Steam is the
leavening ag en t in sponge cakes and so u ffle s . It also
plays a v ita l ro le in p u ff p a stry, croissan ts, and Danish
p a stry, w here th e stea m is tra p p e d betw een layers o f
dough, causing the m to sep ara te and rise. When air is
in c o rp o ra te d in to a b a tte r th ro u g h e ith e r w h ipp in g or
cream ing an in g re d ie n t b e fo re it is in co rp o ra te d in to the
fin a l b a tte r, he at causes th e air p o cke ts in th e b a tte r or
dough to expand.
in s ta n t y e a st in an unopened package is in a c o m p le te ly
d o rm a n t stage and may be s to re d a t room te m p e ra tu re ,
unopened, f o r up to one year.
c h a p te r 31 B A K IN G M ISE EN PLACE
1017
preparation of baking ingredients

SCALING
S IFTIN G DRY IN G R ED IEN TS
The m o st accurate w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts is to
Dry in g re d ie n ts used f o r m o st baked goods should be
weigh them . Even liquid in g re d ie n ts are o fte n , though
s ifte d b e fo re th e y are in c o rp o ra te d in to the dough or
n o t always, weighed. Various ty p e s o f scales are used in
b a tte r. Dry in g re d ie n ts are s ifte d p rim a rily fo r three
the bakeshop, includ in g balance-beam , spring, and e lec
reasons:
tro n ic scales. O th e r m easuring to o ls , includ in g volum e

m easures such as p ints, qu arts, and m easuring spoons,
are also necessary and com m only used.
It is im p o rta n t to p ro p e rly scale o u t each in g re d ie n t
to prepare a baked item . It is eq ua lly im p o rta n t to scale
o u t th e fin is h e d dough or b a tte r to ensure th a t th e p ro p
To blend
To rem ove lum ps o r im p u ritie s
To a e rate
S iftin g aerates flo u r and c o n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar, re
er and co n s is te n t am ount is used fo r th e pan size, mold,
m oving lum ps and filte r in g o u t any im p u ritie s . Chemical
o r in d ivid u a l p o rtio n . This n o t only c o n trib u te s to the
leaveners such as baking pow der and some fla v o rin g
u n ifo rm ity o f pro du cts, it also decreases th e p o s s ib ility
in g re d ie n ts (cocoa powder, fo r exam ple) are m ore evenly
o f uneven ris in g or bro w n ing caused by to o much o r to o
d is trib u te d a fte r s iftin g . S iftin g should take place a fte r
litt le dough or b a tte r.
th e in g re d ie n ts have been p ro p e rly scaled.
cooking sugar
When you cook sugar, all you r e q u ip m e n t m ust be clean
and fre e o f any grease. The sugar m ust also be fre e o f
im p u ritie s such as flo u r o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts. Sugar is
o fte n cooked to very high te m p e ra tu re s and im p u ritie s
are like ly to burn o r cause re c ry s ta lliz a tio n b e fo re the
sugar reaches th e desired te m p e ra tu re . A copper or o th
Brush down th e sides o f th e p o t w ith a m o is t p a s try

brush; th is w ill also help p re v e n t c ry s ta lliz a tio n .
H eat m ilk o r o th e r liq u id s b e fo re ad ding th e m to
caram el.
Add all liq u id s c a re fu lly , aw ay fro m heat. The hot
er h e a vy-b o tto m e d saucepan should be used to ensure
caram el w ill fo a m and s p la tte r when a liq u id is
con stant, even heat.
added.
Sugar may be cooked by one o f tw o m ethods: dry or

w et. The d ry m etho d is used exclusively f o r caram elizatio n . The w e t m ethod is g e ne rally used when sugar m ust
be cooked to a sp e c ific stage or te m p e ra tu re . The w e t
m ethod may be used to caram elize sugar, b u t th e n u tty,
ro a ste d fla v o r c h a ra c te ris tic o f good caram el is b e tte r
achieved throu gh th e dry m ethod.
When cooking o r cara m elizin g sugar by any m ethod,
you can add a sm all am ount o f an acid (ty p ic a lly lem on
juice, a t a p p ro x im a te ly V \ ts p /1 .2 5 mL f o r 8 o z /2 2 7 g
sugar) to help p re ve n t c ry s ta lliz a tio n du rin g cooking.
A fe w basic rules apply when coo kin g sugar:
Use a heavy-gauge p o t to p re v e n t b u rn in g th e sugar
and a candy th e rm o m e te r f o r accuracy.
Add an acid or an in v e rt sugar such as corn syrup to
p re v e n t sugar c ry s ta ls fro m fo rm in g .
1018
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
C A R A M E L IZ IN G SUGAR B Y T H E DRY METHOD

Put a sm all am ount o f th e sugar in a pre he ated pan over
m edium heat and allow it to m elt. Then add the rem a in
ing sugar in sm all in crem en ts, allow in g each a d d itio n o f
sugar to fu lly m e lt b e fo re adding th e next. Cook to the
desired color.
W hen cara m elizin g sugar, reg ard less o f th e cooking
m ethod, s to p th e coo kin g process by shocking the pan
in an ice w a te r bath ju s t b e fo re it reaches the desired
color. Sugar re ta in s heat and can becom e to o dark or
burn if th e cooking process is n o t a rre ste d.
H eat any liquids to be added to th e caram el and add
the m c a re fu lly. C aram elized sugar is very h o t and w ill
s p la tte r when a co ld e r in g re d ie n t is in tro du ced.
2 4 8 F /1 2 0 C
Firm ball
2 6 0 F /1 2 7 C
Hard ball
pan over high heat and s tir c o n s ta n tly u n til the m ix tu re
2 7 5 F /1 3 5 C
S o ft crack
com es to a bo il to ensure all th e sugar is m elted. Once
3 1 0 F /1 5 4 C
H ard crack
For the w e t m ethod, com bine th e sugar in a saucepan

w ith ab ou t 30 p e rce n t o f its w e ig h t in w ater. Place the
it com es to a boil, s to p s tirr in g and skim o f f any im p u ri

ties. Use a p a s try brush to wash down th e sides o f the
pan w ith cool w a te r, to p re ve n t c ry s ta ls fro m fo rm in g .
C ry s ta lliz a tio n o f th e coo kin g sugar occurs re a d ily on
S IM P LE SY R U P
the side o f th e pan, w here c ry s ta ls fro m eva p o ra tin g
Sim ple syrups are an indispensable preparation in every
liq u id are d e p o site d . These crysta ls, in turn, can easily
p a stry kitchen. They are a m ixture o f w a te r and sugar
a ct to "seed" th e re s t o f th e sugar in th e pan, causing it
heated only enough to allow the sugar to dissolve com
to begin to becom e lum py and granular. Repeat w ash
pletely. Various liqueurs, such as orange liqueur, brandy,
ing down th e sides as o fte n as necessary to keep them
rum, or c o ffe e -fla v o re d liqueur, may be added to the syrup
clean, u n til th e sugar has reached th e desired te m p e ra
fo r fla v o r a fte r it has cooled. If desired, fla vo rin g ingre
tu re , con sisten cy, a n d /o r color.
dien ts such as a sachet o f cinnamon and clove, a pinch o f
As th e sugar con tinu es to cook to sp e c ific te m
sa ffro n , or a s p lit vanilla bean may be steeped in the liquid.
pe rature s, th e sugar syrup changes te x tu re . Each o f the
Add the fla v o rin g to th e m ixture while it is hot, cover the
fo llo w in g stages has d iffe re n t a p p lica tio n s in baking,
pan, and le t it stand fo r 15 to 20 m inutes. Strain to remove
pa stry, and candy m aking:
any particles, if desired. Syrups o f this typ e are used to

add flavor, m oisture, and sweetness to cakes before fillin g
2 3 4 F /1 1 2 C
Thread
2 3 8 F /1 1 4 C
S o ft ball
and finishing, to act as a sim ple wash fo r p u ff pa stry as it

bakes, and to serve as a poaching medium fo r fru its .
the tunctions ot baking ingredients
COOKING SUGAR TO STAGES
whipped cream
Heavy cream can be w h ipp ed to s o ft, m edium , or firm
lig h te n e r f o r sw e e t and savory mousses w ith a sm ooth,
peaks fo r use in sw e et and savory a p p lica tio n s. Cream
cream y consistency.
to be w hipped m ust be w e ll chilled, as should th e bowl

and whip. W o rkin g w ith cold cream and cold eq uipm en t
m e d iu m p e a k
helps to produce a m ore sta b le fo a m th a t is ea sie r to
As th e cream passes th ro u g h the s o ft peak stage, it be
fo ld in to o th e r p ro d u cts. W hipped cream may be sw e e t
com es s t if f e r and holds peaks fo r a longer tim e and w ith
ened w ith c o n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar and fla v o re d w ith vanilla
less d ro o p in g when th e b e a te rs are lifte d , but the peaks
to produce C h a n tilly Cream (page 1023).
should n o t stand up p e rfe c tly stra ig h t. Sugar is best
Begin by w h ip p in g th e cream a t a m edium and
added a t th is stage. Cream w h ipp ed to m edium peaks
ste a d y speed, w o rk in g e ith e r by hand or w ith an e le c tric
is o fte n used to cover cakes and to rte s or as a garnish
m ixer. Once th e cream s ta rts to thicke n, increase the
(e ith e r a do llo p dro pp ed fro m a spoon or a p u ff piped
speed and con tinu e to w hip u n til th e desired th ickn e ss
th ro u g h a p a s try bag).
and s tiffn e s s is reached. The variou s stages o f w hipped

cream are as fo llo w s :
s tiff p eak
When cream is be aten to s t i f f peaks, th e fo a m loses
s o ft p e a k
som e o f its fle x ib ility . As cream reaches the s t if f peak
The cream fo rm s peaks th a t fa ll g e n tly to one side when
stage, it w ill lose som e o f its gloss and ve lv e ty te x tu re .
the b e a te r is lifte d . S o ft peak cream is ty p ic a lly used as
S t if f peak cream is used to to p pies and ta rts , as w ell as
a sauce to pool under o r spoon over de sserts, or as the
to make b u tte rc re a m .
c h a p te r 31 B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE
1019
whipping egg whites and making meringues

There are several uses in th e kitch e n and bakeshop fo r
w hipped egg w h ites. They are th e leavener f o r s o u ffle s
A dd in g sugar to beaten egg w h ite s makes the foam

m ore stab le. These egg w h ite fo a m s are known as m e
and sponge cakes and th e y can be used to cre a te the
ringues. M eringu es d iffe r acco rding to how the sugar is
lig h t te x tu re in som e m ousses and Bavarians. M eringues
added to th e w h ite s.
are made by in c o rp o ra tin g enough sugar to bo th s ta b i

lize and sw eeten the foam .
Egg w h ite s m ust be co m p le te ly fre e o f any tra c e o f
yolk in ord e r to w hip succe ssfully. W h ite s w hip to the
To prepare a m eringue, f ir s t separate th e eggs ca re

fu lly and be sure th a t th e w h ites, th e bowl, and th e whip
are all very clean. D iffe re n t typ e s o f m eringues are
made in th e fo llo w in g ways:
g re a te s t volum e when th e y are a t room te m p e ra tu re ;

w h ite s take n d ire c tly fro m re frig e ra tio n can be te m
c o m m o n m e r in g u e
pered by w a rm in g them over a bow l o f h o t w ater.
The com m on m eringue is th e le a st sta b le o f all o f the
The bowl and w hip m ust also be c o m p le te ly fre e o f
m eringues. Beat th e egg w h ite s u n til fro th y , then s ta rt
any grease or fa t. Some chefs w ipe the bowl and whip
to add th e sugar in a gradual stream w hile w hipping. If
w ith w h ite vinegar, fo llo w e d by a rinse w ith very hot w a
th e am ount o f sugar is less than or equal to th e w hites,
ter, to rem ove all traces o f grease. The bow l should be
th e sugar may be added all a t once. Once all th e sugar
large enough to hold th e beaten egg w h ites, which can
is added, w hip th e m eringue to s o ft, medium, or s t if f
expand eigh t to ten tim e s in volume. If you are using an
peaks, as re q u ire d by th e recipe. This ty p e o f m eringue
acid in the m eringue, it should be added b e fo re whipping.
can be used to leaven angel fo o d cakes, sponge cakes,
Begin w h ip p in g at a low to m edium speed, ju s t u n til

the w h ite s s ta rt to loosen and becom e foa m y. Increase
and s o u ffle s ; to p a pie; pipe and bake in to shells; o r cre

a te b o rd e rs and o th e r de cora tions. Because th e w h ite s
the speed and continue to w h ip u n til the w h ite s hold
in a com m on m eringue are n o t heated to a safe te m p e ra
s o ft or m edium peaks (see W hipped Cream, page 1019).
tu re , th is s ty le o f m eringue should be used fo r a p p lica
If egg w h ite s are overbeaten, th e y becom e dull, grainy,
tio n s w here it w ill be cooked or baked fu rth e r.
and dry looking. O verbeaten egg w h ite s collapse qu ickly

and sep ara te as th e y are fo ld e d in to a base or b a tte r,
s w is s m e r in g u e
ad verse ly a ffe c tin g the te x tu re o f the fin is h e d item .
To prepare a Swiss meringue, com bine the w hites and
B eat egg w h ite s only if you are ready to use them
sugar in a m ixer bowl and warm the m ixture over sim m er
im m e d ia te ly. For exam ple, th e w h ite s f o r a s o u ffle are
ing heat un til it reaches 140F /60C (depending on the
beaten, added to the base, and im m e d ia te ly baked fo r
intended use), s tirrin g fre q u e n tly to be sure th a t the sugar
th e be st volume.
is com p le te ly dissolved in to the egg whites. The amount

o f sugar is alm ost g re a te r than the am ount o f egg whites.
SEPARATINGW
HOLEEGGS
Eggs separate most easily when they are
into one of the containers. When all of the
tion to the cold eggs, you should have four
white has separated from the yolk, drop
well-cleaned containers on hand for sepa
the yolk into its container. Examine the
rating eggs: one to catch the white as each
white to be sure that it has no bits of yolk.
egg is separated plus three more to sepa
If it is clean, drop it into the container that
rately hold all the clean whites, all whites
will hold only clean whites. Otherwise, put
with some yolk, and all yolks.
it into the container for whites to use for
Crack the eggshell and pull it apart

into two halves. Pour the egg from one half
1020
into the other, allowing the white to fall
taken directly from refrigeration. In addi
other egg preparations.
M eringue w h ipp ed to m edium peak
S t if f peak m eringue w ill hold a peak
shape. The peaks tip over when the
becom es s t if f e r and re ta in s its shape
th a t com es to a sharp point.
w hip is lifte d .
f o r a longer tim e when th e b e a te r is

lifte d fro m the bowl.
Once the egg w h ites are warm ed, tra n s fe r the bowl to a
th e end p ro d u c t has a fin e r grain and is much m ore
m ixer and whip on medium speed u n til the m eringue has
s ta b le . Prepare a sugar syrup w ith th re e -q u a rte rs o f
s o ft, medium, or s t if f peaks, as required.
th e sugar using th e w e t coo kin g m ethod and heat it to
Swiss m eringue can be used f o r th e same p re p a ra
2 4 0 F /1 1 6 C . When th e syrup reaches 2 3 0 F /1 1 0 C ,
tio n s as com m on m eringue, b u t it may also be used to
b e at th e egg w h ite s to s o ft peaks w ith the rem aining
lighte n m ousses and creams, f ill cakes, add a de cora tive
sugar. Once th e syrup is p ro p e rly cooked, pour it gradu
piped b o rd e r to cakes o r o th e r pre p a ra tio n s, and to
ally in to th e w h ite s w hile th e m ixe r is running. Continue
make b u tte rcre a m .
to b e a t th e m eringue u n til it holds s o ft, medium , or s t if f

peaks, as required.
i t a lia n m e r in g u e
Ita lia n m eringue can be used to prepare baked
Ita lia n m eringue is produced by w h ip p in g a h o t sugar
shells, and cookies. Because it is heated to a high
syrup in to egg w h ite s. This m eringue re q u ire s m ore
enough te m p e ra tu re , it can be le ft uncooked fo r use as a
c a re fu l tim in g than a com m on o r Swiss m eringue, and
fillin g o r th e base f o r Ita lia n B u tte rc re a m (page 1125).
whipping egg whites and making meringues
S o ft peak m eringue b a rely holds its
choosing and preparing pans

P icking a pan o f th e c o rre c t shape and size is esse ntia l
spread ra th e r than poured, it is im p o rta n t to apply a thin
to ensuring th e rig h t te x tu re and appearance. If a pan is
film o f b u tte r or o th e r fa t to th e pan b e fo re placing the
to o large, th e cake o r bread may n o t rise p ro p e rly du rin g
p a rchm e nt in th e base o f th e pan. The f a t w ill keep the
baking and th e edges may becom e overbaked. On the
paper s ta tio n a ry w h ile th e b a tte r is spread. The sides o f
o th e r hand, if a pan is to o sm all, th e ite m m ay n o t bake
a pan should also be greased and lig h tly flo u re d . Pans
th ro u g h and th e appearance w ill s u ffe r.
used f o r sponge cakes should be lined w ith parchm ent,
PAN PREPARATION
fo o d cakes req uire no pan prepa ration . The fu ll rise o f
b u t th e sides o f th e pans should rem ain untre ated . Angel
Pans are lined w ith pa rchm e nt paper to ease the process

o f rem oving a baked pro d u ct. For b a tte rs th a t m ust be
th is cake is p a rtia lly d e pendent on th e b a tte r being able

to cling to th e side o f th e pan as it rises during baking.
ch a p te r 31 B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE
1021
using pastry bags and tips

P astry bags and a sso rte d tip s have m any uses in the
tra n s fe r th e p re p a ra tio n to th e bag w ith a spatula or
kitche n beyond d e c o ra tin g cakes. They are also used
spoon. T w ist th e bag to com press th e m ixtu re and to
to add fillin g s to o th e r fo o d s, p o rtio n o u t b a tte rs such
release any a ir p o cke ts b e fo re beginning to pipe. Use
as pate a choux o r duchesse p o ta to e s b e fo re baking,
you r do m in a n t hand to hold the bag and squeeze o u t the
f ill p a s try shells f o r eclairs o r p ro fite ro le s , and apply
co n te n ts o f th e bag. Use your o th e r hand to guide and
sm all am ounts o f garnish o r fin is h in g re d ie n ts on hors
stea dy th e tip . Release pressure on the bag as you li f t it
d'oeuvre and canapes.
away cleanly to avoid m aking ta ils .
E xtru d in g a fro s tin g , b a tte r, dough, o r o th e r s o ft
Clean reusable p a s try bags and tip s th o ro u g h ly im
m ix tu re th ro u g h a p a s try bag is re fe rre d to as piping. It
m e d ia te ly a fte r use by w ashing the m c a re fu lly in warm
ta ke s p ra c tic e to develop th e sure m ovem ents used to
soapy w a te r and rin sin g th o ro u g h ly. Be sure to tu rn the
cre a te de co ra tive e ffe c ts .
bag inside o u t to clean th e in te rio r b e fo re storage. In
To f ill a p a s try bag, se le c t th e de sire d t ip and po

s itio n it secu rely in th e p a s try bags opening or in a
many kitch e n s and bakeshops, single-use p a s try bags

are used f o r sa n ita tio n .
coupler. Fold down th e bag's to p to cre a te a c u ff, then
Borders piped using a star tip
1022
Borders piped using a stra ig h t tip
Simple Syrup
5 eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
5 o z /1 4 2 g m ilk
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
Pinch salt
Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and stir

Combine the eggs, milk, and salt using a wire whip.
to ensure all the sugar is moistened. Bring to a boil,
Use as needed.
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool the syrup to room

temperature. It is ready to use now or may be refrig
NOTE; There are in fin ite variations possible to best suit
d iffe re n t uses and tastes. For example, water or cream

can be substituted fo r some or all o f the milk. Egg yolks
can be substituted fo r all or a portion o f the whole eggs.
Sugar can also be added.
NOTE: Simple syrup may be made w ith varying ratios of

sugar to water, depending on the desired use and the
sweetness and flavor o f the cake or pastry to which it is
to be applied.
C o ffe e Sim ple Syrup: A fte r the sugar and water comes to a
EG
GW
ASH
Egg washes are an important component in
many baked goods. They have a considerable
effect on the finished appearance and may
also affect the flavor, mouthfeel, and texture
boil, add 1 o z /2 8 g g ro u n d coffee. Remove the pan from

the heat, cover, and allow to steep fo r 2 0 minutes. Strain
to remove the grounds.
baking mise en place recipes
Egg Wash
Liqu eur-F la vore d Sim ple Syrup: To flavor a simple syrup

w ith a liqueur such as framboise, kirsch, or Kahlua, add 4
f I o z/1 20 mL o f the desired liqueur to the syrup a fte r it
has cooled completely.
of the item.
An egg wash may include whole eggs,
only yolks, or only whites, which may be
blended with water, milk, or cream.
A suggested ratio is 2 tbsp/30 mL water
or milk to 1 whole egg. Be sure to beat the
mixture thoroughly to break up the egg
whites.
Chantilly Cream/
Whipped Cream fo r
Garnish
Makes lib 2 0Z/510 g
1 lb /4 5 4 mL heavy cream
2 o z/5 7 g confectioners sugar
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Whip the cream to soft peaks.

2 . Add the sugar and vanilla and whip to desired peak.
Chapter 31 B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE
1023
Common Meringue
Makes l lb 8 oz/68o g
Italian Meringue
Makes 1 lb 8 oz/68o g
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 2 7 mL)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
Pinch salt
4 o z/1 1 3 g water
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 27 g)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
Pinch salt
1 . Place the egg whites, salt, and vanilla in the bowl

of an electric mixer speed fitted with a wire whip.
Whip on medium speed until frothy.
2 . Increase the speed to high and gradually add the
1 . Combine 12 oz/340 g of the sugar with the water in

a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
sugar while continuing to whip the egg whites. Whip
Continue cooking, without stirring, until the mix
to the desired consistency.
ture reaches the soft ball stage (240F/ii6C).
NOTE: This may also be made by hand w ith a balloon whisk.
2 . Meanwhile, place the egg whites, salt, and vanilla in

the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip.
3 . When the sugar syrup has reached approximately

230F/ii0C, whip the whites on medium speed
Swiss Meringue
Makes l lb 5 oz/595 g
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g)
sugar and beat the meringue to medium peaks.
4 . When the sugar syrup reaches 24O0F/ii6C, add it to

the meringue in a slow, steady stream while whip
ping on medium speed. Whip on high speed to stiff
peaks. Continue to beat on medium speed until com
Pinch salt
pletely cool.
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 . Place the egg whites, vanilla, salt, and sugar in the

bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip and
stir until the ingredients are thoroughly combined.
2 . Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water

and slowly stir the mixture until it reaches between
ii5and i65F/46and 74C, depending on use.
3 . Transfer the bowl to the mixer and whip on high

speed until the meringue reaches the desired consis
tency.
1024
until frothy. Gradually add the remaining 4 oz/113 g
BAKING AND PASTRY
yeast breads
Breads and rolls made from yeast-raised doughs and batters have a
distinct aroma and flavor, produced by the biological process of the
yeasts fermentation. The effects vary from the simplicity of a hearth
baked pizza to a delicate egg- and butter-enriched brioche.
CHAPTER 3 2
Yeast
Lean
d o u g h s
d o u g h s
m a y
can
be
be
d iv id e d
in t o
tw o
pr o d u c e d
w it h
o n ly
c a t e g o r ie s
f lo u r
: lean
d o u g h s
a nd
e n r ic h e d
, y e a s t , s a l t , a n d w a t e r ; in
fact
d o u g h s
, th o se are
T H E IN G R E D IE N T S FOR A C L A S S IC F R E N C H B A G U E T T E . O T H E R IN G R E D IE N T S , S U C H AS S P IC E S , HERBS,
S P E C I A L F L O U R S , A N D / O R D R I E D N U T S A N D F R U I T S , C A N BE A D D E D TO V A R Y T H I S D O U G H , B U T T H E Y
W IL L NOT GREA TLY C H A N G E T H E BASIC T E X T U R E .
lean and enriched

doughs
Lean doughs contain only re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts o f sugar and fa t, if any. Breads made
fro m lean dough ten d to have a chew ier te x tu re , m ore bite , and a crisp crust. Hard rolls,
French and Ita lia n -s ty le breads, and w hole w heat, rye, and pum pernickel breads are con
sidered lean.
An enriched dough is produced by th e a d d itio n o f in g re d ie n ts such as sugar o r syrup,
b u tte r o r oil, w hole eggs o r egg yolks, and m ilk o r cream. Included in th is ca te g o ry are s o ft
rolls, brioche, and challah. When fa ts are in tro du ced, th e y change th e dough's te x tu re as
w e ll as the way in which it behaves durin g m ixing, kneading, shaping, and baking. An en
riched dough is usually s o fte r, and th e fin ish e d p ro d u c t has a m ore te n d e r b ite a fte r baking
than ite m s fro m lean doughs. They may be golden in co lo r because o f th e use o f eggs and
b u tte r, and the cru s t is s o ft ra th e r than crisp.
W heat flo u r (all-pu rpo se o r bread flo u r, f o r instance) is th e basis o f yea st-ra ise d
doughs. W heat flo u rs contain a high percentage o f pro te in , which gives a good te x tu re to
lean doughs. A p o rtio n o f
the w h ea t flo u r called fo r
in a recipe may be replaced
m eth o d at-a-glan ce
w ith o th e r flo u rs such as

rye, pum pernickel, o r oat.
P l a c e t h e w a r m li q u i d in
6.
Fold o ve r t h e d ou gh and
2. A d d t h e r e m a i n i n g
3. M i x t h e d o u g h u n t i l it
s t a r t s t o "c a tc h."
4. K n e a d t h e d o u g h u n t i l it
is s m o o t h a n d s p r i n g y .
5. T r a n s f e r t h e d o u g h t o
a n o i l e d b o w l.
C onsult in dividu al fo rm u la s
a n d s c a le th e flo u rc a re fu lly .
a b ow l.
in g re d ie n ts .
L e t i t ri s e .
punch it down.
8.
T ra n s fe r it to a flo u re d
w orkbench.
9. S h a p e a n d p l a c e t h e
d o u g h in p an s .
It is ge ne rally n o t necessary
to s if t th e flo u r f o r bread.
Yeast is a b iolo gical
leavener th a t m ust be alive
in o rd e r to
be e ffe c tiv e .
B ring th e yeast to
te m p e ra tu re
if
room
necessary
10. L e t i t ris e .
b e fo re p re pa ring th e dough.
11. Bake.
W ater, m ilk, o r o th e r liquids

used in a bread fo rm u la
should fa ll w ith in a te m -
1026
BAKING AND PASTRY
The v ia b ility o f yea st m ayb e te s te d by p ro o fin g . To do so, com bine th e ye a st w ith warm
liquid and a sm all am ount o f flo u r o r sugar. L e t th e m ix tu re re s t a t room te m p e ra tu re un til
a th ic k surface foa m fo rm s. The foa m in dica tes th a t th e ye a st is alive and can be used. If
th e re is no foam , th e yea st is dead and should be discarded.
S a lt develops fla v o r in bread and also helps to c o n tro l th e actio n o f th e yeast. If s a lt is
o m itte d , breads do n o t develop as good a fla v o r o r te x tu re .
Pan preparation depends on the typ e o f dough to be baked. Because o f th e ir higher brow n
ing point, lean doughs should be baked d ire ctly on the hearth. If th is is n ot possible, eith er line
the pan w ith parchm ent paper or dust it w ith cornm eal or semolina flo u r; cornmeal is espe
cially w ell suited to fre e -fo rm loaves such as baguettes or round loaves. For doughs w ith a
higher percentage o f milk, sugar, and fa t, grease the pan or line it w ith parchm ent paper.
The sim p lest and fa s te s t m ethod fo r producing a lean dough is d ire ct ferm en tation : Com
m ercially produced yeast is combined w ith flou r, water, and sa lt and mixed u n til the dough is
supple and elastic, w ith well-developed gluten.
The stra ig h t m ixing m ethod is m ost o fte n used w ith form ulas th a t rely on d ire ct fe rm e n
tatio n. For th is m ixing m ethod, the ingredients are added in a d iffe re n t order depending on the
lean and enriched doughs
p e ra tu re range o f 68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C f o r com pressed (fresh) yeast. The ideal w a te r

te m p e ra tu re f o r in s ta n t dry yea st is 105 to 1 1 0 F /4 1 to 43C.
typ e o f yeast used. If in sta nt dry yeast is used, the yeast should f ir s t be blended w ith the flour,
then all the rem aining ingredients should be added to the f lour-yeast m ixture. If active dry or
compressed fresh yeast is used, the yeast should f ir s t be blended w ith the w a te r and allowed
to fu lly dissolve. N ext the flo u r should be added and all the rem aining ingredients should be
placed on to p o f the flour.
c h a p te r 32 Y E A S T B R E AD S
1027
1. during mixing,
f ir s t in the pic k -up
period, blend th e in g re d ie n ts on low speed u n til ju s t

com bined. The dough is a rough mass a t th is p o in t. Next,
du rin g th e clean-up pe rio d (p re lim in a ry developm ent), m ix
th e dough a t m o d e ra te speed; it w ill appear som ew hat
rough.
2. during the early stages o f the de

v e lo p m e n t period, th e e la s tic ity o f th e g lu te n begins to
develop and th e dough s ta rts to pull aw ay fro m th e sides
o f th e m ixin g bowl. A t th is p o in t th e m ixe r should be run
ning at m edium speed.
D uring th e fin a l stages o f th e de velopm e nt period, the
g lu te n is fu lly developed. The dough becom es sm oo th and
e la s tic and leaves th e sides o f the bow l c o m p le te ly clean

as th e m ixe r is running.
One w ay to know when to check fo r g luten de velop
m en t is to un de rsta nd th e changes th a t occur w h ile m ix
ing. There are fo u r sep ara te m ixing stages, no m a tte r
w h a t m ixin g m etho d you use. Each stage o f developm ent
shows a clear d iffe re n c e in de velopm e nt o f glu te n s tru c
tu re . Ind ivid ual recipes w ill te ll you th e level o f d e velop
m en t required.
Dough th a t has reached s h o rt de velopm e nt w ill
becom e a hom ogeneous mass b u t w ill fa ll a p a rt when
w o rked w ith you r hands. Dough th a t has reached the
im p roved g lu te n de ve lo p m e n t stage holds to g e th e r but
te a rs when you check fo r th e g lu te n window. Dough th a t
has reached the in te nse stage o f g lu te n de velopm e nt w ill
n o t te a r as it is s tre tc h e d ; it w ill hold a th in m em brane you
can see through.
If you o ve rm ix th e dough, th e g luten w ill break down.
The dough w ill go fro m being sm oo th and e la stic to w e t
and sticky. Your bread w ill fa il, m eaning th a t it w o n't rise
p ro p e rly o r bake w ell. On th e o th e r hand, i f you don't m ix
th e dough enough o r m ix it im p ro p e rly, you w ill also w ind
up w ith low volum e and p o or in te rn a l s tru c tu re . P oorly
m ixed dough may mean th a t th e flo u r w ill n o t absorb the
liquids p ro p e rly and th a t th e dough tu rn s o u t irregular. It
w ill have a p o or g luten s tru c tu re , lack e la s tic ity , and the
dough w ill rem ain w e t and sticky.
1028
3. bulk fermentation
is th e f ir s t fe rm e n
ta tio n period. Bulk fe rm e n ta tio n is e sp ecially im p o rta n t

when using th e d ire c t fe rm e n ta tio n m ethod; w ith o u t the
a d d itio n o f p re -fe rm e n ts , th is is th e only tim e to develop
fla v o r th ro u g h fe rm e n ta tio n .
The p ro p e rly m ixed dough is tra n s fe rre d to a lig h tly
oiled bow l o r tu b ( s t if f o r fir m doughs can be placed on a
lig h tly flo u re d ta b le to p ).
The dough may also be re ta rd e d durin g bulk fe rm e n ta
tio n . R e ta rd in g dough means to p u rp o se ly cool th e dough,
ty p ic a lly a t te m p e ra tu re s o f around 40 F /4 C , in o rd e r to
slow th e fe rm e n ta tio n process. R e ta rd in g p e rm its bakers
to organize th e ir w o rk to m e e t p ro d u c tio n and em ployee
schedules. It also allow s th e g lu te n to relax fu rth e r, since
th e fe rm e n ta tio n is prolonged. Keeping th e dough a t
co o le r te m p e ra tu re s w ill re s u lt in a long er fe rm e n ta tio n
pe rio d and th u s m ore fla v o r developm ent.
4. let the dough rest a t room te m p e ra tu re

u n til it has doubled in size. Cover th e dough in a lig h tly
oiled bow l w ith a m o is t c lo th o r p la s tic w rap to pre ve n t
a skin fro m fo rm in g on th e surface and le t it re s t a t the
a p p ro p ria te te m p e ra tu re u n til it has doubled in size. The
tim e s sug ge ste d in our fo rm u la s are based on fe rm e n ta
tio n a t room te m p e ra tu re (75F /24C ).
The alcoh ol produced du rin g fe rm e n ta tio n te n d e r
izes th e g lu te n strand s, m aking th e m m ore e la s tic so the y
expand, a llow in g th e bread to rise p ro p e rly. M ore te n d e r
g lu te n stra n d s produce a lo a f w ith a te n d e r and chewy
crum b. G luten is also fu rth e r developed durin g th is tim e
th ro u g h th e process o f fo ld in g .
c h a p te r 32 Y E A S T B R E A D S
1029
5. fold over the dough
durin g or a fte r
bulk fe rm e n ta tio n to re d is trib u te th e available fo o d sup

ply fo r the yeast, equalize th e te m p e ra tu re o f the dough,
expel th e b u ilt-u p fe rm e n ta tio n gases, and to fu rth e r
develop th e g lu te n in th e dough. Fold over the dough and
punch it down c a re fu lly to preserve the s tru c tu re already
developed.
6. accurate scaling
cre a te s u n ifo rm ity o f
size f o r each dough piece, w hich allow s f o r u n ifo rm ity in

p ro o fin g and baking tim e s. A fte r scaling, g e n tly preshape
th e dough in to a round o r oblong. Preshaping gives the
dough a sm ooth, tig h t skin th a t w ill help tra p th e gases
th a t develop du rin g fe rm e n ta tio n .
R esting th e dough fo r 10 to 20 m inutes a fte r p re
shaping, covered w ith a linen clo th or p la s tic wrap, allow s
th e glu te n to relax so th a t th e dough w ill be easier to m a
nip u la te in to its fin a l shape.
A fte r re stin g , give th e dough its fin a l shape. Brush the
dough w ith egg wash and apply garnish, i f using, a fte r it is
shaped, so th a t th e dough is evenly coa ted w ith o u t ris k o f
d e fla tin g it a fte r its fin a l rise.
1030
7. after shaping,
th e dough undergoes
one m ore fe rm e n ta tio n . Some doughs, such as th e lean

dough used to pre pa re boules, can s im p ly be placed on
a w o rk ta b le o r a board th a t has been d u sted w ith flo u r
o r cornm eal. O th e r doughs o r shapes may be placed on
a linen c lo th (couche) o r she et pans, in lo a f pans, or in
b a skets (bannetons), o r w ooden or o th e r m olds. During
th is fin a l rise, it is again im p o rta n t to ensure th a t a skin
does n o t fo rm on th e su rfa ce o f th e dough. If you are not
using a p ro o f box f o r th is fin a l p ro o f, th e dough should be
covered. Using th e te m p e ra tu re and h u m id ity c o n tro ls in
a p ro o f box w ill p re ve n t th is fro m happening w ith o u t the
need to cover th e dough.
BAKING THE BREAD

Lean doughs should be baked in a hot
Once the loaves are baked, it is im
oven (400 to 450F/204 to 232C) with
portant that they be cooled properly in
steam; enriched doughs should be baked
order to preserve the crust and structure
at a slightly lower temperature (approxi
of the bread as well as to allow for final
mately 375F/i9iC). Beyond this, other
development of flavor. All breads, but
things that may affect the specific baking
most importantly those made with lean
temperature are the type of oven, the size
doughs, should be cooled on wire racks to
and shape of the product, the desired
maintain air circulation around the entire
crust and color development (or other
loaf. This will prevent moisture from col
such characteristics), and the length of

the pan proofing.
lecting on the bread as it cools.
c h a p te r 32 Y E A S T BRE A D S
XJ
Finishing techniques
The decision of how to finish a loaf of bread is an im
w ashes
portant one. If you are making several different types of
Use beaten eggs as a wash to create a glossy, shiny crust
breads and rolls the shape, scoring, and garnish not only
and seed in the moisture in the bread. Milk or cream is
add to the beauty of the finished product, but also add
often used for breads baked at lower temperatures.
flavor and can indicate to you and your customers what

type of bread it is.
s c o r in g
g a r n is h in g
Garnishing the top of loaves or rolls adds flavor as well
as appeal. Herbs, salt, olives, and seeds as well as flours
such as semolina or rye may be applied after shaping, but
1.
M any breads are scored w ith a razor, sharp knife ,
surface to adhere the garnish if the dough is not moist
S coring helps develop a g o o d -q u a lity lo a f w ith an even
enough on its own to make it stick.
appearance and crum b. S coring p a tte rn s f o r round

loaves should be evenly d is trib u te d over th e e n tire su r
face.
2.
Some breads, such as b a gu ette s, are scored w ith
tra d itio n a l p a tte rn s as a w ay to label th e breads, m aking

it easy fo r bo th c lie n ts and s t a f f to id e n tify them . Scoring
p a tte rn s fo r ob lo ng loaves are a t th e h ig h e st p o in ts on
th e loaf.
1032
before the final fermentation. Use a bit of water on the
scissors, o r lame b e fo re th e y are loaded in to th e oven.
Baguettes
Makes 8 lb 7% oz/3.85 kg dough
Makes 8 loaves
5 lb /2.27 kg bread flour
8 lb /3 .6 3 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
3/4 o z/21 g instant dry yeast

3 lb 6 o z/1.53 kg water, warm
l 3/ t
oz/
50 g salt
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf,

shape the dough into an oblong. (Work sequentially,
here and in later steps, starting with the first piece of
dough you divided and rounded.) Let the dough rest,
1 . Combine the flour and yeast in the bowl of an elec

tric mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add the water
and salt and mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Mix
on medium speed for about 3 minutes. The dough
should be smooth and elastic.
2 . Bulk ferment the dough until nearly doubled, about
covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 . Position the dough lengthwise, parallel to the edge of

the work surface with the seam side up. Press lightly
with your fingertips to stretch it into a rectangle
10 in/25 cm lng, using as little flour as possible.
Fold the top edge of the dough down to the center
30 minutes. Fold the dough gently. Ferment for an
of the dough, pressing lightly with your fingertips
other 30 minutes, and fold again. Allow the dough to
to tighten the dough. Fold the dough lengthwise in
ferment for another 15 minutes before dividing.
3 . See pages 1033,1034, and 1036 for shaping, proofing,

and baking options suitable for this dough.
yeast bread recipes
Basic Lean Dough
half and use the heel of your hand to seal the 2 edges
together, keeping the seam straight. Roll the dough
under your palms into a cylinder 20 in/51 cm long.
Keep the pressure even and hold your hands flat
and parallel to the work surface. Move your hands
outward from the center of the cylinder toward the
ends and slightly increase the pressure as you move
outward, until both ends have an even, gentle taper.
Then increase the pressure at the ends of the loaf to
seed them.
3 . Place the loaves seam side down into a pan or onto a

parchment-lined sheet pan. Proof, covered, until the
dough springs back very slowly to the touch, 30 to 45
minutes. (Baguettes should be slightly underproofed
when placed into the oven.)
4 . Score the dough with 5 or 7 diagonal lines down the

center of the loaf, overlapping each cut by V2 in/i cm.
5 . Bake in a 475F/246C oven with steam, if possible,

until the crust is golden brown, the bread sounds
hollow when thumped on the bottom, and you hear
a crackle when you hold it next to your ear, 20 to 25
minutes.
6 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
c h a p te r 32 Y E A S T B R E AD S
1033
Boules
Focaccia
Makes 8 loaves
Makes 8 loaves
8 lb /3.63 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
8 lb /3.63 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)


shape the dough into a round. (Work sequentially,
Toppings such as minced herbs, sauteed onions,

sliced tomatoes, or coarse salt, as needed
here and in later steps, starting with the first piece of

dough you divided and rounded.) Let the dough rest,
covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 . Cup both hands around the dough. Using your
shape the dough into a round. Let the dough rest,

covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes. (Work se
thumbs, push the dough away from you in an arc to
quentially, here and in later steps, starting with the
the right, keeping a small piece of dough between
first piece of dough you divided and rounded.)
the table and the edges of your palms. Using the
2 . To shape the focaccia, flatten and stretch each round
edges of your palms as a guide, pull the dough to
of dough into a rectangle or a disk and place on sheet
ward you in an arc to the left. There should still be
pans sprinkled with cornmeal or brushed with oil.
a small piece of dough that is squeezed between
Let the loaves rise until doubled, 30 to 40 minutes.
the table and the edges of your palms. Repeat this

circular motion 2 or 3 more times, applying gentle
pressure while rounding the dough, to create a tight,
smooth outer skin. Place the boule seam side up in a
round basket, or seam side down on a board dusted
with cornmeal.
3 . Proof until the dough springs back slowly to the

touch, 1 to 1V2 hours.
4 . Flip the dough seam side down onto a peel. Score

the boule with an arc.
5 . Bake in a 450F/232C oven with steam, if possible,

until the crust is golden brown and the bread sounds
hollow when thumped on the bottom, 25 to 30
minutes.
1034
3 . Just before baking, dimple the focaccia with your

fingertips. Brush generously with oil and scatter the
desired topping over each focaccia.
4 . Bake in a 450F/232C oven until deep in color,

about 30 minutes.
Focaccia
1. Topreparethepre-ferm
ent,combinetheflour,
Hard Rolls
Makes3dozenrolls
3 lb /1 .36 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 10 33 )
1. Scalethedoughinto36pieces,about
oz/37g
each.Preshapethedoughintorounds.Letthedough
rest,covered,untilrelaxed,15to20minutes.
2 . Presseachpieceofdoughlightlyw
ithyourfingertips
toflatten.Foldthetopedgeofthedoughdownto
thecenter,pressinglightlywithyourfingertipsto
tightenthedough.Rotatethedough90degrees,fold
itinhalf,andusetheheelofyourhandtosealthe
twoedgestogether.Cuptherollinyourhandand
reroundthedough,applyinggentlepressuretocre
ateatight,smoothball.
3. Proof,covered,untilthedoughspringsbackslow
ly
tothetouchbutdoesnotcollapse,about30minutes.
4 . Scoretherollsw
ithastraightcutdownthecenterof
eachroll.
5. Bakeina450F/232Covenw
ithsteam,ifpossible,
untiltherollshaveagoldenbrowncrustandsound
hollowwhenthumpedonthebottom,about15
minutes.
6. Coolcompletelyonwireracks.
1V3
Ciabatta
Makes4lb/1.81kgdough(4loaves)
PRE-FERMENT
IV /2 o z/3 2 6 g bread flour

8 o z/2 2 7 g water, warm
Vb ts p /0 .5 0 g instant dry yeast

DOUGH
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g bread flour
2 ts p /8 g instant dry yeast
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g water, warm
1 lb V/2 o z/4 9 6 g pre-ferment
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt
BAKING AND PASTRY
water, andyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixer
fittedwiththedoughhook.Mixonlowspeedfor3
minutes, oruntilthoroughlycombined.Transfertoa
container, cover,andfermentat75F/24Cfor18to
24hours,untilthepre-fermenthasrisenandbegun
torecede; itshouldstillbebubblyandairy.
2 .Topreparethefinaldough,com
binetheflourand
yeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
doughhook.Addthewater,pre-ferment,andsalt.
3. M
ixonlowspeedfor4minutesandonmedium
speedfor1minute. Thedoughshouldbeblended
butnottooelastic(ciabattadoughisawet, slack
dough).
4 . Bulkferm
entthedoughinatuborbowluntilnearly
doubled,about30minutes. Foldgentlyinhalffour
times(thedoughshouldfeellikejelly). Fermentfor
another30minutes. Foldinhalfagain,gently,two
times.Allowthedoughtofermentforanother15
minutesbeforedividing.
5. Placethedoughonthetableanddustthetopofit
withflour. Keeptheworksurfacewellflouredwhen
workingwithciabattadough.Usingthepalmsof
yourhands,gentlystretchthedoughintoarectangle
32in/81cmlongand1V2in/4cmthick.Becareful
toavoidtearingorpuncturingthedoughwithyour
fingertips. Usingaflouredbenchscraper,dividethe
doughintofourrectangles.
6. Flipthedoughoverontoflouredsheetpans.Gently
stretcheachpieceintoaroughrectangle. Stretchthe
doughslightlytoplaceitontothepan.
7. Proof,covered,untilthedoughspringsbackslow
ly
tothetouchbutdoesnotcollapse,30to45minutes.
8. Lightlyflourthetopofthedough.
9 . Bakeina46oF/238Cdeckoven,w
ithsteamif
possible,untilthecrustisgoldenbrownandthecia
battasoundshollowwhenthumpedonthebottom,
25to30minutes.Ventduringthefinal10minutesif
usingsteam.Coolcompletelyonwireracks.
Makes3lb6oz/1.53kg(11pitas)
Semolina Pizza Crust

Makes8lb/3.63kgdough
1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg bread flour
1 lb /4 5 4 g whole wheat flour
2 lb /9 0 7 g durum flour
l 3/4 ts p /7 g instant dry yeast
V2o z/1 4 g instant dry yeast
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g water, warm
3 lb /1.36 kg water, warm
2 o z/5 7 g olive oil
3/4 o z/21 g salt
2 o z/5 7 g salt
3/ t ts p /3 .75 g sugar
1. Com
binethefloursandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewater,
oil, salt, andsugar.Mixonlowspeedfor4minutes
andonmediumspeedfor3minutes. Thedough
shouldbeslightlymoistbutwithstrongglutende
velopment.
2 .Bulkferm
entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about
30minutes.
3. Foldgently.
4 . Scalethedoughinto4y2-oz/i28-gpieces. Preshape
intorounds.Letthedoughrest,covered,untilre
laxed,15to20minutes. (W
orksequentially,hereand
inlatersteps,startingwiththefirstpieceofdough
youdividedandrounded.)
5. Usingarollingpin,rolleachpieceofdoughinto
around7in/18cmindiameter. Transfertoparchment-linedsheetpans,cover, andletrelaxfor10
minutes.
6. Bakethepitasina5ooF/26oCovenuntilpuffed
butnotbrowned,3to4minutes.
7. Stackthepitas5highandw
rapeachstackinacloth.
Coolbeforeserving.
1.Com
binethefloursandyeastinthebowlofan
electricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthe
water, oil, andsalt.Mixonlowspeedfor2minutes
andonmediumspeedfor4minutes.Thedough
shouldhavegoodglutendevelopmentbutstillbea
littlesticky.
2 .Bulkferm
50minutes.
3.Foldgently.
4 .Allowthedoughtoferm
entforanother15minutes
beforeretarding.
5.Refrigerateovernight.
6. Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator1hour
priortouse.
7.Scalethedoughinto8-oz/227-gpieces. Preshapethe
doughintorounds. (W
orksequentially,hereandin
latersteps, startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyou
dividedandrounded.)Letthedoughrest, covered,
intherefrigerator,untilrelaxed,1hour.
8. Usingarollingpin,rolleachpieceofdoughintoa
round9in/23cmindiameter. Transfertoparchment-linedsheetpansthathavebeendustedwith
semolinaflour,orplaceeachroundonapeelbefore
youaddanytopping.
9 .Topthedoughasdesired(seethevariationsbelow
),
leavingai-in/3-cmborderwithoutgarnish.
10 .Bakethepizzasina500F/260Covenuntilgolden
brownaroundtheedges,3to4minutes. Serveat
once.
yeast bread recipes
Pita Bread
M a rg h e rita Pizza: Spread each round w ith 3 f I oz/90 mL

Tomato Sauce (page 295). Top each w ith 2 oz/57 g
shredded mozzarella and
o z /1 4 g g ra te d Parmesan.
V2
IV2
Spinach Pizza: Spread each round o f dough with

oz/43 g
Pesto (page 299),
oz/43 g sauteed spinach,
4 3 g ric o tta cheese, and 1 o z/2 8 g g ra te d ricotta salata.
IV2
IV20Z/
ch a p te r 32 Y E A S T B R E AD S
1037
Makes8flatbreads
Makes6dozenrolls
12 o z/3 4 0 g water (68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C)
2 V a o z/9 g instant dry yeast
5 o z/1 4 0 g compressed yeast
5 lb 4 o z/2 .3 8 kg bread flour
2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter, plus more as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg cottage cheese
2 o z/5 7 g plain yogurt
4 Y 2 o z/1 2 8 g sugar
l e gg
r /2 o z/4 3 g minced onions
1 o z /2 8 g sugar
V/ 2 ts p /5 g salt
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 tb s p /1 2 g poppy seeds or black onion seeds
1 o z/2 8 g chopped dill
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewater,
butter,yogurt,egg,sugar,andsaltandmixonlow
speedfor4minutes.Thedoughshouldbeveryelas
ticbutstillwet.
2 . Bulkferm
1hour.
3. Foldgently.
4 . Scalethedoughinto3-oz/85-gpieces. Preshapethe
doughintorounds. (W
orksequentially,hereandin
latersteps,startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyou
dividedandrounded.)Letthedoughrest,covered,
untilrelaxed,15to20minutes.
5. Gentlystretcheachpieceofdoughintoaround7
in/18cmindiameter, sothatthecenteris%in/6
mmthickandthereisaborderV2in/icmwideall
around.Pulloutoneedgetoelongateeachround
slightly,creatingateardropshape.
6. Placethebreadsonparchment-linedsheetpans,
brushwithbutter,andsprinklewithseeds.
7 Bakeina425F/2i8Cdeckovenuntilgoldenbrow
n
andpuffed,about10minutes.
8. Coolcompletelyonwireracks.
.
Cottage Dill Rolls
1. Com
binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec
yeast bread recipes
Naan Bread
1 o z/2 8 g baking soda

6 o z/1 7 0 g eggs
Pinch grated horseradish
Melted butter, as needed
Salt, as needed
1. Com
binethewaterandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil
theyeastisfullydissolved.
2 .A
ddtheflour,cottagecheese, sugar,onions,butter,
salt, dill,bakingsoda,eggs,andhorseradishand,us
ingthedoughhook,mixonlowspeedjusttoincor
porate. Increasethespeedtomediumandmixuntil
thedoughissmoothandelastic, 10to12minutes.
3. Placethedoughinalightlyoiledcontainer,cover,
andletriseuntilthedoughhasdoubledinvolume,
about75minutes.
4 . Turnoutontoalightlyflouredw
orksurface.Fold
overthedough.
5. Scaleinto6dozeniy2-oz/43-gpieces. Roundoffthe
doughandletitrestfor15to20minutes.
6. Reshapetherollsandplaceonparchment-lined
sheetpans.
7. Proofinaproofboxorinaw
armareauntildoubled
insize,about25to30minutes.
8. Bakeina38oF/i93Covenuntillightgoldenin
color,about20minutes.
9 . Brushtherollsw
ithmeltedbutterandsprinklevery
lightlywithsaltassoonastheyaretakenfromthe
oven.Letcoolonthepans.
1039
Brioche Loaf
Makes8loaves
5 lb /2.27 kg bread flour
1 o z/2 8 g instant dry yeast
16 eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g whole milk (68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C)
2 o z/5 7 g salt
3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft but still pliable
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
1. Com
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addtheeggs,
milk,andsaltandmixonlowspeedfor4minutes.
2.. G
raduallyaddthebutterwiththemixerrunningon
mediumspeed,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlas
necessary.Afterthebutterhasbeenfullyincorporated,
mixonmediumspeedfor15minutes,oruntilthe
doughbeginstopullawayfromthesidesofthebowl.
3. Placethedoughonasheetpanthathasbeenlined
withparchmentpaperandgreased.Covertightly
withplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
4 . Lightlygreaseeight2-lb/907-gloafpans(4V
2by8by
3in/11by20by8cm).
5. Dividethedoughbyhandinto64evenpieces, about
2%oz/78geach.Rolleachpieceintoaballandplace
itintheloafpanstoform2rowsof4ineachpan.
6. Brushtheloaveslightlywitheggwash,coverwith
plasticwrap,andproofuntilthedoughhasdoubled
insize,about2hours.
7. Brushw
itheggwashasecondtime. Bakeina
400F/204Covenuntilthecrustisarichgolden
brownandthesidesofthebreadspringbackfully
whenpressed,30to35minutes.
8. Removefromthepanandcoolcompletelyonwire
racks.
1040
BAKING AND PASTRY
Brioche a Tete: Divide the dough into 104 pieces, l 3A

o z /5 0 g each. Roll each piece into a ball, place them on
sheet pans, and refrigerate fo r 15 minutes. Make a head
(tete) by pinching one-quarter o f the dough ball with
the side o f your hand and rollin g it back and fo rth on the
worktable, making a depression in the dough, but not
detaching it; the larger piece o f dough should be about
2 3A in/7 cm long and the te te should be 3A in/2 cm long.
Gently press a hole all the way through the center o f the
larger piece o f dough. Push the te te through the center
of the larger piece o f dough. Place each brioche into
a greased brioche tin, w ith the te te on top. Brush the
brioche lightly w ith egg wash, cover w ith plastic wrap,
and p ro o f until the dough has doubled in size, about 2
hours. Brush w ith egg wash a second tim e and bake in a
400F/204C oven fo r 2 0 minutes, or until golden brown.
Makes6loaves
4 lb/1.81 kg bread flour
Vi o z /1 4 g instant dry yeast

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g milk (68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C)
5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g butter, soft
5 3/t o z /1 6 B g sugar
4 eggs
V /i o z/4 3 g salt
/.Placethedoughseamsidedowninagreasedpan.
Thedoughwillspringbackonitselfslightlyandfit
snuglyinthepan.Brushtheloaflightlywithegg
wash.
8. Proof,covered,untilthedoughfillsthepanand
springsbackslowlytothetouchbutdoesnotcol
lapse, 1V2to2hours.
9 .Gentlybrushthebreadagainw
itheggwash.Bake
ina375F/i9iCovenuntilthecrustisbrownand
thesidesspringbackwhenpressed,25to30
minutes.
10 .Rem
ovethebreadfromthepanandcoolcom
pletelyonwireracks.
yeast bread recipes
Raisin Bread with

Cinnamon Swirl
12 o z/3 4 0 g raisins
3Aoz/21 g ground cinnamon

CINNAMON SUGAR
1 o z/2 8 g ground cinnamon
1.Com
binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofan
electricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Add
themilk,butter, sugar,eggs,andsalt. Mixonlow
speedfor4minutesandonmediumspeedfor4
minutes; inthelastminuteofmixing,addthe
raisins, andinthelast30secondsofmixing,add
thecinnamon,mixingjustlongenoughtocreatea
swirl.Thedoughshouldbeslightlysoft.
2 .Bulkferm
entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,
about1hour.
3.Foldgently.
4 .Scalethedoughinto1lb\-0zl567-gpiecesandpre
shapeintoanoblong.
5.Letthedoughrest, covered,untilrelaxed,15to20
minutes. Lightlygreasesix2-lb/go7-gloafpans.
Combinethebrownsugarandcinnamon.
6. Rollthedoughintoanevenrectangle8by12in/20
by30cm.Brushlightlywitheggwash.Sprinkle1
oz/28gofthecinnamonsugarevenlyoverthesur
face.Rollupthedoughalongthelongsideunder
yourpalmsintoacylinder,keepingthepressure
evenandholdingyourhandsflatandparallelto
theworksurfacetocreateasmooth,evenloaf.
1043
Challah (3-Braid)
Makes8loaves
4 lb/1.81 kg bread flour
'/2 o z/1 4 g instant dry yeast

2 lb /9 0 7 g water, warm
12 egg yolks
7 /2 o z/2 1 3 g vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g sugar
V 2 o z/1 4 g salt
10 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023;
using yolks only)
1.Com
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewa
ter,eggyolks,oil, sugar,andsalt.Mixonlowspeed
for4minutesandonmediumspeedfor4minutes.
Thedoughshouldbeslightlyfirmandsmooth,not
sticky.
2 .Bulkferm
entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,
about1hour.
3.Foldgently.
4 .Dividethedoughinto24pieces, about4V
2oz/128
geach.Preshapeintooblongs.Allowthedoughto
rest,covered,15to20minutes.
5.Startw
iththefirstpieceofdoughthatyoushaped
andworksequentiallyonalightlyflouredwork
bench.Startingatthecenterofthedough,roll
eachpieceoutward,applyinggentlepressurewith
yourpalms.Applyverylittlepressureatthecenter
ofthedough,butincreasethepressureasyouroll
towardtheendofthedough.Rolleachpieceof
doughintoanevenlytaperedstrand12in/30cm
long.Itisimperativethatallofthestrandsbethe
samelength.Iftheyarenot,thefinishedbraidwill
beuneven.
6. Dustthetopsofthestrandsverylightlywithwhite
ryeflour.Thiswillkeepthedoughdryasyoubraid
andhelpmaintaintheoveralldefinitionofthe
braid.
7.Lay3strandsofthedoughverticallyparallelto
eachother. Beginbraidinginthecenterofthe
strands. Placetheleftstrandoverthecenter
strand,thenplacetherightstrandoverthecenter
1044
BAKING AND PASTRY
strand.Repeatthisprocessuntilyoureachtheend
ofthedough.Pinchtheendstogethertightly.Flip
thebraidaroundandfinishbraidingtheotherside.
8. Brushthedoughlightlywitheggwash.Proof,cov
ered,untilthedoughspringsbacklightlytothe
touchbutdoesnotcollapse, about1hour.There
shouldbeasmallindentationleftinthedough.
9 .M
akesurethattheeggwashisdrybeforeyouap
plyasecondcoat. Eggwashthedoughagainvery
gently.
10 .Bakeina350F/i77Cconvectionovenuntilthe
braidsaredarkgoldenbrownandshiny,20to25
minutes.
11.Coolcom
pletelyonwireracks.
Sweet Dough
Makes
M akes
12
dozen i-oz/ 2 8 -g rolls
11
lb
ozl^ .22 kg dough
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg milk (68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C)
4 lb/1.81 kg milk (68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C)
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g eggs
5 lb 8 oz/2.49 kg bread flour
V/2 o z/4 3 g malt syrup
2 o z/5 7 g salt
1 lb /4 5 4 g pastry flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg bread flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter (68 to 7 6 F /2 0 to 24C)
3/t o z /2 1 g s a lt
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1. Com
binethemilkandyeastinthebowlofanelec
2 .A
ddtheeggs,flour,salt, sugar,andbutterandusing
thedoughhookmixonlowspeedjusttoincorpo
rate. Increasethespeedtomediumandmixuntilthe
doughissmoothandelastic, 10to12minutes.
3. Placethedoughinalightlyoiledcontainer, cover,
andletriseuntilthedoughhasdoubledinvolume,
about1hour15minutes.
4 . Turnoutthedoughontoalightlyflouredw
orksur
face. Foldoverthedough.
5. Scalethedoughinto12dozeni-oz/28-gpieces, and
roundoff. Coverandletrestfor10minutes.
6. Shapethedoughintorolls(seeNote)andplace
themonparchment-linedsheetpans.Brushlightly
andevenlywitheggwash.
7. Coverandpanproofuntilnearlydoubled,25to30
minutes. Brushwitheggwashagainjustbeforebak
ing,ifdesired.
8. Bakeina375F/i9iCovenuntildeepgoldenbrown,
about20minutes.
9 . Lettherollscoolonthepan.
yeast bread recipes
S o ft Dinner Rolls
V2 o z/1 4 g ground cardamom

1. Com
binethemilkandyeastinthebowlofanelec
~Z.Addtheeggsandm
altsyrupandblend.Addthere
mainingingredientsandusingthedoughhookmix
onlowspeedjusttoincorporate. Increasethespeed
tomediumandmixuntilthedoughissmoothand
elastic, 10to12minutes.
3.Thedoughm
aybeshapednoworrefrigeratedfor
lateruse.
NOTE: The rolls may be shaped into knots, Parker House

rolls, or cloverleaf rolls. To make knots, roll each ball of
dough into a rope and tie it into a knot or figure eight. For
Parker House rolls, fla tte n a piece o f dough, brush it with
butter, and fo ld it in half. For cloverleaf rolls, arrange 3
small balls o f dough in a triangular pattern and if desired,
place in m uffin tins.
ch a p te r 32 Y E A S T BRE A D S
1045
Sticky Buns
Makes32stickybuns
CINNAMON SMEAR
10 o z/2 8 4 g bread flour
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon
6 egg whites
8 o z/2 2 7 g pecans, toasted and chopped
PAN SMEAR
2 lb /9 0 7 g light brown sugar
2 lb 10 oz/1.19 kg dark corn syrup
2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream
6 lb /2.72 kg Sweet Dough (page 1045)

1.Tom
akethecinnamonsmear,mixtogetherthe
flour,sugar,andcinnamoninthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththepaddle.Addthebutter
andblendonmediumspeeduntilthemixture
lookslikecoarsemealandtherearenovisible
chunksofbutter,about1minute.
2 .A
ddtheeggwhitesintwoadditions,mixingto
fullycombineandscrapingdownthesidesofthe
bowlasnecessary.
3.A
ddthenutsandmixuntiljustcombined.Reserve
untilneeded.
4 .Tom
akethepansmear,combinethesugar,
cornsyrup,andcreaminasaucepanandheatto
220F/l04C.
5.Allowthem
ixturetocooltoroomtemperature
beforeusing.Itmaybenecessarytorecombinethe
mixturewithawhiskbeforeusing.
6. Scalethedoughintofourpieces, 1lb8oz/68og
each.(W
orksequentially,hereandinlatersteps,
startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyoudivided.)
Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksur
facetoarectangle14by8in/36by20cmandap
proximatelyV2in/icmthick.
7.Lightlybrushtherectanglew
ithastripofeggwash
1in/3cmwidealongthelongside.
1046
BAKING AND PASTRY
8. Spread8floz/240mLofthecinnamonsmear
evenlyovertheremainderofthesurface. Rollup
thedoughtoformalog14in/36cmlongandseal
attheegg-washedstrip.Divideeachpieceofdough
into9evenpieces.
9 .Pour8floz/240m
Lofthepansmearintoeachof
four9-in/23-cmsquarebakingpans. Place9rolls
ineachpan.Prooftherollsuntiltheyaredoubled
insize.
10 .Bakeina400F/204Covenuntilgoldenbrow
n,
25to30minutes. Immediatelyuponremovalfrom
theoven,inverteachpanontoaplate. Servewarm
oratroomtemperature.
and batters
Most pastry doughs and batters contain many common ingredients
flour, fat, liquid, and eggs. What makes each unique is the proportioi
in which each of the ingredients is used in relation to the others,
the flavorings used, and the method for mixing or combining
the ingredients.
B is c u it s , s c o n e s , s o d a
b r ea d s
, and
p ie
d o u g h s
can
be
prepared
u s in g
r u b b ed
-d o u g h , or
C U T T I N G - I N , M E T H O D . T h e I N G R E D I E N T S A R E N O T B L E N D E D I N T O A S M O O T H B A T T E R . I N S T E A D , T H E FAT
IS C H I L L E D A N D T H E N R U B B E D I N T O T H E F L O U R T O C R E A T E F L A K E S T H A T W I L L P R O D U C E A T E N D E R ,
F L A K Y BAKED ITEM .
rubbed-dough
m e t h o d (cutting-in)
Flour, a cold solid fa t, and a ve ry cold liquid are th e basic com ponents o f m ost rubbeddough pro du cts. A ll-p u rp o se w heat flo u r or a com b in ation o f w h ea t and o th e r flo u rs should
be p ro p e rly w eighed and s ifte d . Any leavener should be weighed o r m easured and blended
evenly th ro u g h o u t th e flo u r e ith e r by s iftin g it w ith the flo u r or by blending w ith a whisk.
O th er dry in g re d ie n ts (salt, spices, etc.) are ty p ic a lly scaled o u t and blended w ith th e flo u r
in the same manner.
B utter, shortening, o r lard (or a com b in ation ) are the m ost com m on fa ts used fo r th is
m ixing m ethod; the y should be broken or cu t in to pieces and k e p t cool.
Recipes using th is m ixing m ethod call fo r a re la tiv e ly sm all am ount o f liquid, and the
liquid, like th e fa t, should be very cold to fu rth e r in h ib it th e fa t fro m blending co m p le te ly
w ith the flo u r. W ater, m ilk, and b u tte rm ilk are all common
liquid ingre die nts. Com bine the liquid w ith the o th e r in g re
dien ts ju s t enough to allow th e m o istu re to be absorbed by
method
at-a-glance
th e flo u r and ju s t u n til th e in g re d ie n ts come to g e th e r, at

which p o in t the dough should be allow ed to re s t in the re
frig e ra to r.
S ift the d ry ing re d ie nts.

2.
There are tw o basic typ e s o f rubbed doughs: fla k y and
Cut the fa t in to the dry
mealy. The la rge r the fla ke s o f fa t b e fo re the liquid is add
in g re d ie n ts u n til the m ixtu re
ed, the fla k ie r and crisp e r th e baked dough w ill be. If the
resem bles a coarse meal.
fla ke s o f b u tte r or sh o rte n in g are rubbed in to th e dough

so th a t the y rem ain visible , the re s u lt w ill be w h a t is o fte n
3.
Add th e cold liquid
re fe rre d to as fla k y " pie dough. If th e b u tte r or sho rte ning
ing re d ie nts and m ix ju s t u n til
is m ore th o ro u g h ly w orked in to th e dough, u n til the m ixtu re
a shaggy mass is fo rm e d.
4.
5.
resem bles coarse meal, the re s u lt w ill be w h at is som e
Knead the dough very b rie fly ,
tim e s re fe rre d to as "m ealy" dough. Rubbed doughs f o r pies
i f necessary.
or ta r ts should be ro lle d o u t on a lig h tly flo u re d w o rk sur

face to a p p ro xim a te ly Va in /B mm thick.
Shape and scale th e dough as
Flaky pie dough is b e st fo r pies and ta rts th a t
desired, and bake as indicated
are fille d w ith a f r u it fillin g and baked. M ealy dough is best
fo r the p a rtic u la r item .
suite d fo r pies and ta rts th a t req uire a fu lly baked shell th a t

is fille d a fte r coo lin g and chilled u n til set, and fo r pies w ith
J
1048
custa rd o r o th e r liquid fillin g s th a t are baked u n til set.
in conventional ovens. Have wire cooling racks available. Remove scones, biscuits, and
breads from their baking pans and cool directly on the racks; pies and tarts cool on racks in
their pans. Tarts may be removed from their pans after they are completely cooled.
There are a few basic things to consider when preparing a rubbed dough:
S if t th e dry in g red ien ts to g e th e r prior to adding th e f a t to ensure th a t all ing red ients
are evenly d is trib u te d . The process o f rubbing in th e f a t w ill n ot e ffe c tiv e ly blend the
dry ing red ients to g e th e r.
Keep th e f a t very cold. It is im p e ra tiv e th a t th e f a t rem ain cold through th e m ixing and
shaping process w h e th e r you are m aking biscuits or pie dough. It is th e d is tin c t layers
th a t are c re a te d through th e rubbing process th a t c re a te th e fla k y te x tu re . Once th e
f a t becom es to o w arm it w ill begin to blend w ith th e flo u r and o th e r in g red ients, b e
com ing m ore o f a hom ogeneous mass, which w ill com prom ise th e fin a l te x tu re o f th e
fin ish ed product.
rubbed-dough method
Pie pans and ta rt pans require no preparation because a dough of this type contains
a great amount of fat. Properly preheat ovens and adjust the rack to the center position
W o rk th e dough only as much as needed to achieve th e d esired resu lt. The fin a l stage
o f any rubbed dough is to add th e liquid. It is crucial th a t th e dough is not overw orked
a t th is ju n c tu re . O verw orking will p ro m o te th e d evelo p m en t o f g lu ten (th e p ro tein
con tain ed in flo u r) and w ill m ake th e dough tough, so th a t it w ill be d iffic u lt to w ork
w ith and it w ill have an u np leasantly hard te x tu re when baked.
chapter 33 P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1049
1. sift or blend the dry ingredients well before

adding the fat. Good results depend on working the dough
as little as possible and blending the dry ingredients at
the beginning to cut down on mixing time later. Have the
fa t cold so that it is still solid enough to be worked into
the flour without blending the mixture into a smooth
dough. Add the fa t to the dry ingredients all at once, and
rub them into the fat. Dont work the fat into the flour too
thoroughly, or the end result will not be as flaky and deli
cate as desired.
The fa t in the mixture on the top was rubbed until the
pieces were the size of shelled walnuts, which will result
in a flaky pie dough. The fa t in the mixture on the bottom
was rubbed until the pieces were approximately the size
of peas. This will produce a mealy pie dough. Note the
color difference that was achieved by rubbing the fa t into
the flour more thoroughly.
2. make a well in the center of the flour-fat
mixture and add the liquid ingredients. Slowly mix the
flour together with the liquid, starting with the flour on
the inside of the well and working to the outside.
mm
1050
BAKING AND PASTRY
rubbed-dough method
3. do not overwork the dough once the

liquid is added; vigorous or prolonged mixing will result in
a tough product. Knead the dough just until smooth.
Divide and portion the dough fo r storage. Pie dough
should be refrigerated after mixing and before rolling it
out to the desired thickness. Use light but even pressure
while rolling out the dough.
t! l
CRUMB CRUSTS
Arubbedpiedoughismosttypicallyused
forfruitpiesandcustardsthatarebaked
intheovenintheircrust. Crumbcrusts,
however,aresimple,flavorful,quick-tomakecruststhataretypicallyusedintwo
typesofpreparations:puddingorcream
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g graham
cracker or o th er crumbs
6
o z /1 7 0 g b utter, m elted
1.M
ixtheingredientstogetheruntil
fullycombined. Thenscalethecrust
intopreparedpansandpressintoan
evenlayeraboutViin/6mmthick.
piesandcheesecakes. Grahamcrackers
aremostcommonlyusedasthebasefor
crumbcrusts,butothertypesofcookies
maybeusedfordifferentflavors.
Abasicrecipeforacrumbcrustisas
follows:
2 . Crum
bcrustsshouldbebakedat
350F/i77Cuntilsetandlightgolden
brown,about7minutes. Coolthe
crustcompletelybeforefilling.
3. Forpuddingandcreampies,thefilling
iscooked,thenpouredintothecooled
bakedcrust,andrefrigerateduntilset.
Forcheesecakes,thebatterispoured
intothecooledbakedcrustandthen
bakeduntilset.
c h a p te r 33 PA S T R Y D O U G H S A N D BATTERS
T h e B L E N D IN G M E T H O D C O N S IS T S OF M A K IN G TW O M IX T U R E S , O NE W IT H T H E W E T IN G R E D IE N T S A N D ONE
W IT H T H E DR Y IN G R E D IE N T S , T H E N C O M B IN IN G T H E T W O T O G E TH E R . T h e DR Y IN G R E D IE N T S T Y P IC A L L Y
I N C L U D E F L O U R , S U G A R , SALT, C H E M I C A L L E A V E N E R S , A N D F L A V O R I N G S U C H A S S P I C E S A N D C O C O A .
the blending
mixing method
These ingredients are sifted and/or blended together. The fa t is added in liquid form: ei
ther oil or melted butter. The fat is added to the other liquid ingredients (milk, water, juice,
eggs, etc.) and blended together before it is added to the dry ingredients.
First, s ift the flour with the other dry ingredients. Special flours such as cornmeal or
whole wheat flour may replace some or all of the white wheat flour in a given formula to
add flavor and develop a different texture. It is important to s ift the dry ingredients to
remove lumps and incorporate the dry ingredients together. Thoroughly blending the dry
ingredients also ensures that the leavening agent will be evenly distributed in the mixture.
Sifting will ultimately help to create a fully combined batter needing minimal mixing time.
Next combine the wet ingredients. Cream, milk, buttermilk, water, and even watery
vegetables like zucchini are all considered wet ingredients.
Solid fats like butter or shortening are most often melted
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1.
S i f t t o g e t h e r t h e d ry
in g r e d ie n t s .
2. C o m b in e t h e liq u id
in g r e d ie n t s .
for this method so they can be blended with the other liquid
ingredients. All ingredients should be at room temperature
before being added; if too cold, they may cause the batter
to separate.
Finally, add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients
all at once and blend, just until the dry ingredients are
evenly moistened. Mixing these batters as briefly as pos
sible ensures a light, delicate texture. Overmixed batters
may develop too much gluten and the resulting item will not
3. A d d t h e liq u id in g r e d ie n t s t o
t h e d r y in g r e d ie n t s .
4. M ix u n t il t h e b a t t e r is e v e n ly
m o is te n e d .
5. A d d a n y a d d itio n a l g a r n is h .
F ill p r o p e r ly p r e p a r e d p a n s
a n d b a k e t h e it e m .
7. R e m o v e t h e it e m f r o m t h e
p a n s , c o o l, a n d s e r v e o r
p r o p e r ly s t o r e it.
1052
BAKING AND PASTRY
have the desired fine, delicate texture.
b r e a d s
, c o o k ie s , a n d
o th er
baked
g o o d s
m a d e
w it h
th e
c r e a m in g
M E T H O D D E VE LO P T H E IR L IG H T AN D A IR Y ST R U C TU R E FR OM TH E USE OF C H E M IC A L LE A V E N E R S AND
T H E IN C O R P O R A T IO N OF A IR INTO T H E BATTER OR D O UG H.
the creaming
method
For the creaming method, firs t the fa t and sugar are blended ("creamed") until relatively
smooth, light, and creamy. Then eggs are added gradually, and finally the sifted dry ingredi
ents are added in one or two additions, depending on the amount of flour. If there is a liquid,
the flour and liquid are added alternately, starting and ending with the flour. It is important
that ingredients fo r a creamed batter or dough are at the proper temperature before you
begin to mix. Fats should be softened to 65 to 70F/18 to 21C and the eggs and liquids (if
using) should be warmed to 70F/21C.
The fat should be pliable so that it can aerate properly. Allow the butter or other fat to
come to room temperature, or beat it in a mixer with the paddle to soften it slightly. The sug
ar used in creaming recipes is often granulated white sugar, although brown sugar or confec
tioners sugar may be used in some recipes. It is the act of beating the granules of sugar into
the fa t that produces the f i
nal texture. Eggs included in
the recipe should be at room
m eth o d at-a-g lan ce

B r in g s h o r t e n in g
ing the creamed butter and

sugar mixture. Flavorings
A d d t h e s i f t e d d ry
o r b u t t e r t o ro o m
in g r e d ie n t s a n d liq u id
such as vanilla extract or
te m p e r a tu re .
in g r e d ie n t s a l t e r n a t e ly ,
chocolate should be at room
in p o r tio n s . I f n o t u s in g
temperature. Chocolate is
liq u id in g r e d ie n t s , a d d
typically melted and allowed
t h e d r y in g r e d ie n t s a ll a t
to cool slightly before being
once.
blended into the batter. Liq
S i f t t h e flo u r , le a v e n e r s ,
a n d o t h e r d r y in g r e d ie n t s
as n e c e s s a ry .
3
5.
temperature to avoid break
C re a m th e b u tte r and
s u g a r u n t il t h e m ix t u r e
is lig h t a n d s m o o th a n d
f u l l y c o m b in e d .
A d d t h e e g g s g r a d u a lly
a n d m ix t h e m in u n t il t h e
b a t t e r is s m o o th . S c r a p e
6 . S c a le o u t t h e b a t t e r in to
p re p a re d pans and b ake
the blending mixing and creaming methods
M u f f i n s , c a k e s , q .u i c k
uid flavoring should be add

ed with the eggs and the dry
ingredients should be added
with the flour.
t h e it e m .
R e m o v e t h e it e m f r o m
Generally,
pans
are
t h e p a n s , c o o l, a n d s e r v e
greased and lightly floured,
o r p r o p e r ly s t o r e it.
orgreased, lined with parch
t h e b o w l in b e t w e e n e a c h
ment that has been cut
a d d itio n .
to size, and then greased

again.
1053
1. cream the fat and sugar together

with the paddle o f an electric mixer on medium speed.
Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl
occasionally as you work to ensure that all the fa t is
blended evenly. Continue until the mixture is pale in color
and light and relatively smooth in texture. When the but
ter and sugar have this appearance, it indicates that a
sufficient amount o f air has been incorporated into the
mixture.
If the ingredients are not sufficiently creamed, the
final product will be somewhat dense and lack the light,
tender qualities characteristic o f creamed baked goods.
2. add room-temperature eggs

gradually and in stages, fully incorporating them and
scraping down the bowl a fter each addition. Scraping
down the bowl is important to develop a completely
smooth batter. Adding the eggs in batches will help to
prevent the batter from separating.
1054
BAKING AND PASTRY
the creaming method
3. add the sifted dry ingredients

all at once, or alternately with the liquid ingredients.
When adding the dry alternating with the liquid, add onethird o f the dry ingredients, then about one-half o f the
liquid ingredients, mixing until smooth and scraping down
the bowl after each addition. Repeat this sequence until
all o f the dry and liquid ingredients have been added.
Increase the mixer speed and beat the batter just
until it is evenly blended and smooth. Regardless of the
method of addition, after adding the dry ingredients the
dough or batter should be mixed minimally or just until
the dry ingredients are incorporated.

Finally, add any remaining flavoring or garnishing
ingredients, such as nuts, chocolate chips, or dried fruit,
mixing or folding just until incorporated.
GENERAL MIXING GUIDELINES
W
henmixingabatter,thereareafew
thingstokeepinmind,regardlessofthe
mixingmethod,thatwillhelpensurea
successfulendresult.
Sifttogetherdryingredients(flours,spices,
leaveners)toremoveanylumpsandto
evenlydistributetheingredients. Spices
andchemicalleavenersareimportant
componentsofabatterbutaretypically
usedinsmallamounts. Itisveryimpor
tantthattheybeevenlydistributedfor
properflavordevelopmentandtoensure
anevencrumb.
Beforemixing,all ingredientsshouldbe
atroomtemperature.Ingredientsnotat
thepropertemperaturecaninhibitproper
mixing,causingabattertoseparateorto
havelumps.
Mixingtimeinbattersallowsforthede
velopmentofaircellsthatarekeytothe
structureofafinishedbakeditem. They
helptodevelopthecrumbandtexture
duringbaking. However,itisimportant
torestrictthemixingtimeaftertheflour
hasbeenaddedtopreventdevelopmentof
gluten,whichwouldmakethebakeditem
toughorchewy.
1055
Lam
in a t e d
doughs
in c l u d e p u f f p a s t r y
c r o is s a n t
and
Da
n is h
To
m a k e a l a m in a t e d
dough
F O L D A N D R O L L A PR EPA RE D D OU GH ( T H E I N I T I A L D O U G H ) T O G E T H E R W I T H A BL OC K OF FAT, C A L L E D A
r o l l - in . T h ro u g h a s e rie s o f f o l d s ("tu rn s "), m u lt ip le la y e r s o f d o u g h a n d f a t a re c re a te d
T H A T BO TH L E A V E N A N D C O N T R I B U T E TO C R I S P N E S S , T E N D E R N E S S , A N D L I G H T N E S S .
laminated doughs
The fat that separates the layers of this final dough melts during baking, providing a place for
steam that is released from the dough and the fat to collect, expanding the space between
the flaky layers of pastry. Proper mixing methods, rolling techniques, and temperature con
trol are essential to producing laminated doughs that are flaky and delicate after baking.
Folding may be the most important factor in making a laminated dough, as the distinct
layers of fa t and dough must be maintained throughout the process. The dough must be
rolled out evenly and the corners kept square throughout the lock-in of fa t and all subse
quent folds, to ensure proper layering.
The firs t fold and the step that introduces the roll-in (lamination fat) to the dough is the
lock-in. The roll-in fat and the dough must be of the same consistency. Let the roll-in stand
at room temperature for a few minutes if it is too hard, or re
frigerate it if it is too soft.
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1
. Prepare the dough and ro ll-in .
. A d m in iste r lock-in and rest.
3- Fold th e o n e -th ird o f the

dough over th e m iddle o f th e
dough.
4- Fold th e rem aining th ird o f
the dough over th e m iddle.
To administer a lock-in, divide the sheet of dough vi

sually in half. Roll the roll-in into a rectangle that is half
the size of the dough sheet, and place it on one half of the
dough, then fold the other half of the dough over it and seal
the edges to completely encase the roll-in fat. This type of
fold doubles the number of layers in the pastry. The rollin fa t can also be added to the dough using the envelope,
single-fold, or three-fold technique.
After the roll-in is added to the dough, subsequent
folds are usually made with the three-fold technique. A f
ter each fold, brush any excess flour from the surface of
the dough before folding and rolling it. When you fold the
dough, corners should meet squarely and the edges should
5- Rest th e dough fo r 15 to 30
m inutes to relax th e gluten.
6 . Roll the dough o ut to th e
o rig in a l th ickne ss and rep e a t

the th re e -fo ld procedure, as
1056
be straight and perfectly aligned. A fter each fold, refrig

erate the dough to allow it to relax and the butter to chill;
the length of time the dough will need to rest will depend in
large part on the temperature of the kitchen.
For each fold, turn the dough 90 degrees from the pre
desired, re stin g a fte r each
vious one to ensure that the gluten is stretched equally in
th re e -fo ld .
all directions.
B A K I N G A N D PASTRY
the sheet of pastry visually into thirds.
3. fold the remaining third
of the
dough over the folded dough. This fold triples the number
o f layers in the dough each time.
2. fold One
laminated doughs
1. divide
of the outerthirds of the dough over
the middle third.
m eth o d in detail
PHYLLO DOUGH
Thisdough,usedtopreparestrudeland
baklava,isaleandoughmadeonlyof
flourandwaterandoccasionallyasmall
amountofoil. Thedoughisstretchedand
rolleduntilitisextremelythin.Instead
ofbeingrolledintothedough,butter
ismeltedandbrushedontothedough
sheetsbeforetheyarebakedsothatafter
baking,theresultissimilartopuffpastry.
Mostkitchenspurchasefrozenphyllo
dough.Thisdoughneedssufficienttime
tothawandcomeuptoroomtemperature
beforeitcanbeworkedsuccessfully.After
removingphyllofromitswrapping,coverit
lightlywithdampenedtowelsandplastic.
Otherwisethephyllocandryoutquickly
andbecomebrittleenoughtoshatter.
Forthebesttexture, spreadbread
crumbs,butteroroil,oracombinationof
thetwoevenlyoverthedoughtokeepthe
layersseparateastheybake. Useaspray
bottleorbrushtoapplybutteroroilinan
evencoat. Refrigeratingphyllopastries
beforebakinghelpsthelayersremaindis
tinctandallowsthemtorisemoreasthe
pastrybakes.
c h a p te r 33 PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
1057
A F O A M I N G M E T H O D IS A N Y M E T H O D I N W H I C H T H E E G G S A R E W H I P P E D O R B E A T E N TO I N C O R P O R A T E
A IR BE FO RE T H E Y ARE F O L D E D INTO T H E R E ST OF TH E BATTER. W H E N Y O U US E A F O A M IN G M E T H O D ,
I T IS V I T A L T H A T A L L I N G R E D I E N T S A N D E Q U I P M E N T A R E A S S E M B L E D A N D R E C E I V E A N Y P R E L I M I N A R Y
T R E A T M E N T B E F O R E Y O U B E G I N TO M I X T H E B A T T E R .
the foaming
method
Pans should be prepped as called f o r in the s p e c ific recipe: greased and lined o r dusted
w ith flo u r. If called for, b u tte r, should be m elte d and s lig h tly cooled. Dry in g re d ie n ts such
as flou r, a d d itio n a l leavener, and ground spices should be s ifte d tog ether.
There are th re e basic type s o f foa m ing m ethods: cold, warm , and separated. For the cold
foa m ing m ethod, whole eggs are w hipped to m axim um volum e w ith the sugar be fore being
fo ld e d in to the batter. For the warm foam ing m ethod, the egg m ixtu re is heated over a w a te r
bath b e fore it is whipped to m aximum volume, to create a m ore stab le foam . For the s eparat
ed m ethod, the yolks and w h ites are w hipped separately w ith sugar fo r m aximum aeration.
method at-a-glance
S ift the flo u r and o th e r
to m edium and beat the
d ry ing re d ie n ts as
eggs fo r 15 m inutes to
necessary.
s ta b ilize th e foam .
2. H eat th e eggs and

sugar over a h ot w a te r
bath to a pp ro xim a te ly
110F/4B C , s tirrin g to
make sure th a t all o f the
Fold in th e s ifte d dry

in g re d ie n ts by hand.
Temper in th e fla vorin g s,
m elte d b u tte r, and o th e r
o p tio n a l ing re d ie nts.
sugar is dissolved.
A fte r rem oving the
6. Scale out the b a tte r into

prepared pans and bake it.
egg-sugar m ixtu re fro m

the heat, beat it u n til
Remove the cake fro m
it reaches m axim um
th e oven and le t it cool
volume. Turn the m ixer
b rie fly in the pan.
1058
ing egg w h ite s, th a t is, m aking a m eringue and fo ld in g in s ifte d flo u r. C h iffo n cake is also
made w ith fo a m e d egg w h ite s: th e sugar, fa t, flo u r, and egg yolks are com bined and the n a
m eringue is fo ld e d in.
For separated foam ing m ethods it is im perative th a t no trace o f yolk be in the whites. The
yolk contains fa t th a t w ill prevent the egg w hites fro m whipping to fu ll volume. Just as when
m aking a meringue, many people choose to wipe the bowl w ith vinegar before whipping.
To m aintain th e m axim um volum e o f the egg w h ite s w h ile fo ld in g in to the b a tte r, use
a large f la t spatula. Inco rp ora te a sm all am ount o f egg w h ite s in to th e b a tte r to lighte n it
b e fo re fo ld in g in th e rem aining m eringue. For m axim um volum e in th e fin is h e d b a tte r, fo ld
in th e m eringue q u ickly and gently.
the toaming method
There are, however, v a ria tio n s o f the se basic fo a m in g m etho ds. Two o f th e se are the
m etho ds f o r m aking angel fo o d cake and c h iffo n cake. Angel fo o d cake is made by fo a m
COOLING AND STORING QUICK BREADS AND CAKES
Quickbreadsandcakesshouldbeallowed
tocoolslightly(justenoughsotheycan
behandled)beforeunmolding.W
ireracks
arebesttousebecausetheyallowairto
circulateunderthepan,wheremuchheat
isretained.
First,gentlyhelpthecakeorloaf
releasefromthepan.Runasmallmetal
spatulaorknifearoundtheinsideedgeof
thepan,pressingtheimplementagainst
thepantoensurethatyoudonotcut
intothecakeorloaf. Invertthepanonto
acardboardcakeroundorwirecooling
rack,gentlyshakethepanandtapitsbot
tom.Liftthepantofullyreleasethebaked
item.Peelawaytheparchmentpaperfrom
thebottomofthecakeorloaftoallowthe
steamtoescape.
Insomecases,icingsmaybedrizzled
ontoitemsthatarestillslightlywarm
fromtheoven,butinmostinstancescakes
shouldbecompletelycooledbeforecut
ting,filling,andicingorfrosting.
Theshelflifeforquickbreadsandcake
layersisrelativelylimitedwhentheyare
leftexposedtotheair. However,theycan
befrozenforuptothreeweekswhentight
lywrappedinplasticwrap.Beforeserving
orusetheyshouldbeallowedtothawat
roomtemperature.
1059
1. scale and sift dry ingredients,

pre pa re pans, and p re h e a t th e oven b e fo re be a tin g the
eggs. The dry in g re d ie n ts m ust be com bined w ith th e eggs
as soon as th e eggs have reached th e ir m axim um volum e,
as th e y begin to lose volum e a fte r th e y are beaten.
F o rth e w arm fo a m in g m ethod, shown here, com bine
th e eggs (whole, yolk, o r w h ite s) w ith sugar in a bowl
and heat the m to ab ou t 11 0 F /4 3 C and s tir or w h isk to
c o m p le te ly dissolve th e sugar, increase th e volum e, and
develop a fin e r grain. The eggs and sugar a t th e s ta r t o f
m ixing are s till a deep ye llo w and re la tiv e ly thin.
For th e cold fo a m in g m ethod, com bine th e eggs and
sugar in th e m ixe r bowl.
method in detail
2. once the eggs and sugar are com
bined, w hip th e m on m edium to high speed u n til the eggs
are w h ipp ed to m axim um volum e and begin to recede
fro m th e side o f th e bowl. (This ste p is done on th e mixer,
n o t over th e h o t w a te r bath.) A p o in t w ill come when the
fo a m does n o t appear to be in crea sing in volum e. The
m ix tu re should fo rm a rib bo n as it fa lls fro m th e w ire w hip
and ju s t begin to recede a fte r the fu ll volum e is reached.
The eggs are p ro p e rly beaten a t th is po in t. Turn th e m ixer
to m edium and b e a t th e eggs f o r 15 m in utes to sta b iliz e
the foam .
Fold in th e s ifte d d ry in g re d ie n ts. This is o fte n done
by hand, alth ou gh som e chefs add the m w ith th e machine
on the lo w e st po ssib le speed and tu rn in g the machine on
and o f f as necessary. Do n o t o ve rw o rk th e b a tte r a t th is
po in t, as th e fo a m could s ta r t to d e fla te , re s u ltin g in a
fla t, dense cake.
If using b u tte r o r an o th e r sho rte ning, te m p e r it in to
th e b a tte r a fte r th e d ry in g re d ie n ts have been p ro p e rly
in co rp o ra te d . These in g re d ie n ts should be w arm so th a t
th e y are evenly d is trib u te d th ro u g h o u t th e b a tte r. Temper
th e s h o rte n in g in g re d ie n t by blending it w ith a litt le b a t
te r to re ta in m axim um volume.
Scale th e b a tte r in to p re pa red baking pans and bake
u n til done.
1060
the foaming method
3. the cake should rise evenly d u r

ing baking. W hen it is p ro p e rly baked, it w ill ju s t begin to
sh rin k away fro m th e sides o f th e pan. The surface should
sp rin g back when pressed lig h tly .
Remove the cake fro m the oven and le t it cool b rie fly in
the pan. Remove it fro m th e pan and le t it cool com p le te ly
on a w ire rack. Angel fo o d and c h iffo n cakes should be al
lowed to cool c o m p le te ly upside down in th e pan b e fore
unm olding, so th a t th e y re ta in th e ir fu ll volume.
Cakes pre pa red by th e fo a m in g m ethod are o fte n
m ore spongy than o th e r cakes, alth ou gh th e y do have a
disce rn ib le crum b. A ngel fo o d and c h iffo n cakes are the
s p o n g ie st o f th e se typ e s. The lim ite d am ount o f s h o rte n
ing used gives th e se cakes a s lig h tly dry te x tu re , which
is w hy the y are o fte n m oiste ne d w ith sim p le syrup. Even
though th e re is a large p ro p o rtio n o f eggs in foam ed
cakes, th e re should n o t be an unpleasant egg flavo r.
1061
P a t e a c h o u x is a p r e c o o k e d b a t t e r t h a t e x p a n d s f r o m t h e s t e a m r e l e a s e d in t h e d o u g h t o
F O R M A H O L L O W S H E L L W H E N B A K E D . I t C A N BE F I L L E D , A S F O R P R O F I T E R O L E S ( c r e a m p u f f s ), O R NOT ,
AS FOR G OU GER ES.
pate a choux
Pate a choux is made by cooking w ater, b u tte r, flo u r, and eggs in to a sm oo th b a tte r, then
shaping and baking it. The shapes expand durin g baking, to cre a te a de lica te shell. Pate a
choux is s o ft enough th a t a p a s try bag can be used to pipe it in to d iffe re n t shapes. Among
th e m ost com m on shapes are cream p u ffs, p ro fite ro le s , and eclairs.
A ll-p u rp o se flo u r may be used to make pate a choux, b u t bread flo u r is th e b e st choice
because it has a higher percentage o f p ro te in . Flours w ith m ore p ro te in are able to absorb
m ore liquid, which allow s m ore eggs to be added. M ore eggs w ill re s u lt in a lig h te r fin ish e d
pa stry, and th e higher g luten c o n te n t w ill make a m ore e la s tic dough, which fa c ilita te s ex
pansion du rin g baking.
B efore beginning a pate a choux, s if t the flo u r. Line th e sheet pans w ith parchm ent. A s
sem ble a m ixe r fit te d w ith a bow l and paddle b e fo re the cooking process begins. The p o t
selected fo r cooking the b a tte r needs to be large enough to hold th e liquid, fa t, and flou r,
w ith enough room to s tir v ig o ro u sly w ith no spillage.
1062
B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
pate a choux
basic formula
Pats a ChoUX
lp a rtflo u r
2 parts liquid (by weight)

2 parts egg
1 part fat
method
at-a-glance
Bring th e liqu id and fa t to
a boil, m aking sure th a t the
fa t is m elted.
2. Add th e flo u r all a t once

and cook the m ixtu re .
3. M ix it u n til cool.
4. Add th e eggs gra du ally and
m ix th em in.
Water and milk
are the two most common liquids used for making
pate a choux. Each produces significantly different results; each is best suited
for different uses, depending on your needs.
Water
For pate a choux made with water, the temperature of the oven should be re
5. Pipe o u t th e b a tte r.
duced during baking. Start with a higher temperature when you first put the
6. Bake th e item s.
dough. After the dough is fully puffed, lower the temperature to dry out the
pastries in the oven. This encourages more steam and greater expansion of the
pastry completely, for a very light and crisp result.
Milk
Milk causes the pastry to brown more quickly, before the pastry has a chance
to completely dry out. The result is that pate a choux made with milk will be
slightly moist and tender. The solids present in milk will also impart more flavor.
Half each
Depending on your needs, you can also make pate a choux with half water and
half milk for a result somewhere between the two.
Other ingredients
can be added to change the flavor and appear
ance of the pate a choux:

CHEESE / FRESH HERBS / DRIED SPICES / COCOA POWDER (SUBSTITUTE FOR 2
O Z /5 7 G OF THE FLOUR AND INCREASE SUGAR BY l V i O Z /4 3 G)
Raw ba tte r may be piped and frozen. Baked pate a choux can be frozen
and refreshed in the oven.
Chapter 33 P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1063
1. bring the liquid and butter to a

fu ll boil. Add th e flo u r all a t once and cook, s tirrin g con
sta n tly . Be sure to have th e liq u id a t a ro llin g bo il b e fo re
adding th e flo u r. As pa te a choux is s tirre d and cooked, a
film s ta rts to develop on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. Cook u n til
th e m ix tu re pulls aw ay fro m th e pan, fo rm in g a ball. Trans
fe r th e m ix tu re to a m ixe r bowl. Using the paddle, m ix th e
dough f o r a fe w m in utes to cool it s lig h tly . This w ill p re
ven t the heat o f th e dough fro m c o o k in g th e eggs as they
are w o rked in to th e m ixtu re .
The eggs should be added gradually, in th re e o r fo u r
ad d itio n s, w o rk in g th e dough u n til it is sm oo th each tim e.
Scrape down th e sides and b o tto m o f th e bow l as neces
sary. C ontinue to add eggs g ra du ally checking th e con
sistency. S top ad ding eggs when th e choux slo w ly slides
down th e paddle.
2. pipe the dough o n to prepared sheet pans

acco rding to th e de sire d re s u lt and egg wash, if desired.
A llo w th e choux to re s t f o r 2 0 m in utes in th e open a ir to
develop a skin; th is helps m aintain th e shape du rin g the
baking process. Bake u n til th e dough is p u ffe d and golden
brown, w ith no beads o f m o istu re on th e sides.
Begin by baking at a high te m p e ra tu re (37 5 to
4 0 0 F /1 9 1 to 204C ). Reduce th e heat to 3 2 5 F /1 6 3 C
once the dough begins to ta ke on color. Continue to bake
th e pate a choux u n til it is c o m p le te ly dry. Remove fro m
th e oven.
1064
13
P >
c+
3. evaluate th e baked pa te a choux. When p ro p
O)
e rly p re pa red and baked, pate a choux has a d e fin ite g o ld

P
en co lo r because o f th e high p ro p o rtio n o f eggs. This co lo r
does n o t change d ra s tic a lly du rin g baking. The dough w ill
'
baking. P ro p e rly baked pate a choux appears p e rfe c tly
tr
o
dry, w ith o u t m o istu re beads on th e sides o r to p . P rop er
have sw elled to several tim e s its o rig in a l volum e durin g
baking produces a dry, d e lic a te te x tu re . Eggs should be

th e p re d o m in a n t fla v o r o f p a te a choux.
Remove th e m o is t in te rio r b e fo re ad ding fillin g fo r
eclairs o r p u ffs o f any kind.
1065
guidelines for shaping and baking cookies

Cookies are prepared in many d iffe re n t ways: piped, scooped, sliced, and m olded, to name
ju s t a few . They are o fte n served a t receptions, as p a rt o f a d e sse rt b u ffe t, o r w ith ice
cream o r sorb et. An a s s o rtm e n t o f cookies m ig h t be presented a t the end o f a meal as an
appealing extra.
Cookies contain a high percentage o f sugar, so the oven te m p e ra tu re m ust be ca re fu lly
reg ulated du rin g baking. C onvection ovens, which produce evenly baked item s, are espe
c ia lly good f o r baking many kinds o f cookies.
Cookie doughs and b a tte rs can be prepared using d iffe re n t m ixing m ethods. Some
m ust be shaped and baked as soon as th e b a tte r o r dough is prepared. O thers need to be
chille d b e fo re th e y are shaped. Prepare the dough or b a tte r as d ire cte d in the recipe and
assem ble the to o ls needed to shape and bake the cookies.
DROP COOKIES
Drop cookies ty p ic a lly spread as th e y bake, so allow enough room fo r the m to expand w ith
ou t tou chin g each other. A rrange th e cookies in even row s fo r even baking. Bake drop coo k
ies a t 3 2 5 to B 5 0 F /1 6 3 to 177C u n til the b o tto m s are golden brow n and the cookies
are baked throu gh b u t s till m oist. Cool on w ire racks and s to re in tig h tly w rapped co n ta in
ers a t room te m p e ra tu re , o r fre e ze f o r longer storage.
ROLLED AND CUT COOKIES

Rolled and cut cookies are made fro m s t if f doughs th a t are o fte n allow ed to chill th o r
oughly b e fo re rollin g. W hile th e dough chills, line she et pans w ith pa rchm e nt paper. Roll
o u t th e dough on a lig h tly flo u re d w o rk surface, using the same tech niq ue as described fo r
ro llin g pie dough (see Lining a Pie o rT a rt Pan, page 1122).
L ig h tly du st the ro llin g pin as you w ork. For som e cookies, the w o rk surface and ro llin g
pin can be du sted w ith co n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar. Very rich and de lica te cookie doughs can be
rolled o u t betw een tw o sheets o f parchm ent. When you have fin is h e d rolling, th e dough
should be even and ge ne rally no m ore than Vs to Vfe in /3 to 4 mm th ick. Be sure th a t the
dough is n o t s tic k in g to the w o rk surface as you ro ll it out.
C u tte rs o f variou s shapes and sizes can be used, or you can cu t th e dough in to shapes
w ith a knife . As you w ork, dip th e c u tte r o r k n ife blade in to a sm all am ount o f flo u r o r con
fe c tio n e rs sugar to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the dough.
T ransfer the cookies to th e sheet pan and bake in a 3 5 0 F /1 7 7 C oven u n til the edges
o f the cookies ju s t s ta rt to tu rn golden. Im m ediately tra n s fe r the m to a w ire cooling rack
to pre ven t ove rcoo king them . S to re these cookies w e ll w rapped o r in a irtig h t con tain ers a t
room te m p e ra tu re .
Shaped cookies are o fte n glazed o r iced. These coatings should be applied a fte r the
cookie is c o m p le te ly cool. If th e cookies are to be fro ze n fo r longer storage, fre e ze them
plain and de cora te o r ice the m a fte r th e y have thaw ed.
T W IC E -B A K E D COOKIES
B is c o tti o r tw ice -b a ke d cookies are a ty p e o fm o ld e d a n d sliced cookie. They are made in to
a ha lf-m o o n -sh a p e d log fo rm e d d ire c tly on lined sheet pans. Once baked, th e b is c o tti are
sliced to make in dividu al cookies. They are re tu rn e d to th e oven on p a rchm e nt-lin ed sheet
pans to lig h tly to a s t and dry.
1066
Piped cookies are shaped as soon as th e dough is com p le te d, so you should assem ble all
you r e q uipm en t b e fo re s ta rtin g to m ix th e b a tte r. P a stry bags and tip s should be assem
bled and th e sheet pans should be greased or lined w ith parchm ent. As soon as th e dough is
p ro p e rly m ixed, tra n s fe r it to the p a s try bag w ith a ru b be r spatula and tw is t the to p o f the
bag to express any a ir pockets. Squeeze th e p a s try bag to fo rm a cookie and release the
pressure on th e bag once it is th e desired size. Arrange the cookies in neat, even row s and
leave som e room f o r th e cookies to spread as th e y bake.
guidelines for shaping and baking cookies
PIPED COOKIES
1067
Drop cookies
1 .
Drop cookies are o fte n shaped and baked as soon as th e dough is
m ixed, so prepare she et pans by linin g the m w ith pa rchm e nt paper b e fo re

m ixin g th e dough. M o s t d ro p coo kie doughs are prepa red by th e cream ing or
th e fo a m in g m ethod. A v a rie ty o f scoop sizes are com m only used to p o rtio n
coo kie dough. To p o rtio n d ro p cookies w ith a scoop, f ill a scoop o f th e ap
p ro p ria te size w ith dough and level it o ff, the n release it on to th e p a rch m e n tlined she et pan. If in d ica te d in th e fo rm u la , fla tte n th e m ounded dough f o r a
m ore even spread.
2.
The dough f o r m ost drop cookies can also be p o rtio n e d by slicin g ra th e r
than scooping; th is m ethod is ve ry e ffic ie n t fo r volum e p ro d u ctio n . To p o rtio n

dough by th is m ethod, scale it in to m anageable p o rtio n s and shape each one
in to a log. W rap th e dough in pa rchm e nt paper or p la s tic wrap, using it to com
press th e dough in to a com p act cylinder, and re frig e ra te o r fre e z e u n til firm .
Slice the dough in to u n ifo rm slices.
1068
drop and stenciled cookies
Stenciled cookies
1 .
S te n cile d cookies are made fro m a ve ry s o ft b a tte r. The b a tte r can
be pre pa red and held w h ile you assem ble th e to o ls f o r shaping and baking.
S te n cils made o f heavy fle x ib le p la s tic can be purchased, o r you can cu t the m
fro m s tu rd y cardboard. Line she et pans w ith silicon e baking m ats or use an
in ve rte d she et pan th a t has been greased, flo u re d , and the n fro ze n . Freezing
th e pan helps th e grease and flo u r s tic k to th e pan ra th e r tha n com ing o f f on
the coo kie as it is sten cile d.
Lay th e s te n c il on th e p re pa red she et pan and d ro p a sp o o n fu l o f b a tte r
in to th e ste n cil. Spread i t in to an even layer w ith a sm all o ffs e t spa tula o r the
back o f a spoon.
2.
Remove th e s te n c il and re p e a t u n til the sheet is fille d . These cookies
do n o t spread, b u t be sure to allow enough room so th a t th e s te n c il w ill n o t

d is tu rb any cookies alrea dy shaped. Bake c a re fu lly, keeping a close eye on th e
cookies.
3.
Q uickly press th e h o t cookies in to a concave m old o r over a ro llin g pin
to shape the m in to tu ile s . A lte rn a tiv e ly , shape th e tu ile s over glass o r a PVC
pipe to make th e m in to cups. Tuiles may be used to hold a scoop o f ice cream,
mousse, o r as a d e co ra tive garnish.
1069
Basic Pie Dough

(3-2-1)
B u tte r m ilk Biscuits

M akes 4 0 biscuits
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg all-purpose flour
M akes 6 lb 6 oz/ 2 . 8 g kg
4 o z /1 1 3 g s u g a r
3 lb /1.36 kg all-purpose flour
3 o z/8 5 g baking powder
1 o z/2 8 g salt
3/ t oz/21 g salt
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cubed, cold
1 lb /4 5 4 g cold water
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
1 . Com
binetheflourandsaltthoroughly.Usingyour
fingertips,gentlyrubthebutterintotheflourto
formlargeflakesorwalnut-sizepiecesforanex
tremelyflakycrust,oruntilitlookslikeacoarse
mealforafinercrumb.
2 .A
ddthewaterallatonceandmixuntilthedough
justcomestogether.Itshouldbemoistenoughto
holdtogetherwhenpressedintoaball.
3. Turnoutthedoughontoaflouredw
orksurfaceand
shapeintoanevenrectangle.W
rapthedoughwith
plasticandchillfor20to30minutes.
4 . Thedoughisreadytorolloutnow
,oritmaybe
refrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6
weeks. (Thawfrozendoughintherefrigeratorbefore
rollingitout.)
5. Scalethedoughasnecessary,usingabout1oz/28g
ofdoughper1in/3cmfP'ePandiameter.
6. Torolloutthedough,workonaflouredsurfaceand
rollthedoughintothedesiredshapeandthickness
withsmooth,evenstrokes.
7.Transferthedoughtoapreparedpieortartpan,or
cutandfitintotartletpans.Theshellisreadytofill
orbakeblindnow.
1070
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g buttermilk
1. Lineasheetpanw
ithparchmentpaper.
2.. Com
binetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalt.
3.Usingyourfingertips,gentlyrubthebutterintothe
dryingredientsuntilthemixturehastheappearance
ofacoarsemeal.
4 . Com
binetheeggsandbuttermilk.Addtotheflour
mixture, tossingtocombine.
5. Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredw
orksurface
toathicknessof1in/3cman(icutoutthebiscuits
witha2-in/5-cmcutter.
6. Placethebiscuitsonthepreparedpanandlightly
brushwitheggwash.
7 Bakeat425F/2i8Cuntilgoldenbrow
n,about15
minutes.
8. Transferthebiscuitstowireracksandcool
completely.
.
Cream Scones
M akes 5 dozen scones
M akes 4 loaves
5 lb 10 o z/2.55 kg bread flour
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg all-purpose flour
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g s u g a r
2 'A o z/71 g baking powder
5 'A o z / 1 4 9 g b akin g po w d e r
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
2'/4 0 z / 6 4 g s a l t
4 lb 10 oz/2.10 kg heavy cream, cold
5 'A o z/1 5 6 g butter, cubed, cold
6 o z /1 7 0 g m ilk
6 o z/1 7 0 g currants
6 o z/1 7 0 g coarse sugar
V2 o z/1 4 g caraway seeds
1 . Com
binetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltin
anelectricmixerandmixonmediumspeedwiththe
paddleuntilwellblended,about5minutes.Addthe
creamandmixjustuntilcombined.
2 . Scalethedoughintoportionsthatare2lb5oz/1.05
kgeachandpateachportionbyhandintoacakepan
orring10in/25cmindiameter. Removethedough
fromthering,placeitonaparchment-linedsheet
pan,andfreezethoroughly
3. Cuteachdiskinto10equalw
edgesandplacethe
wedgesonparchment-linedsheetpans. Brushwith
themilkandsprinklewiththecoarsesugar.
4 . Bakeina350F/i77Covenuntilgoldenbrow
n,20
to25minutes.
5. Coolthesconesonthepansforafewm
inutes,then
transferthemtowirerackstocoolcompletely.
Raisin Scones: Add 3 lb/1.36 kg raisins to the dough ju st
before blending in the wet ingredients.
Ham and Cheddar Scones: Omit the milk and coarse sugar.
Add 3 lb/1.36 kgsm all-dice ham, 3 bunches green onions
(chopped), and 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g diced Cheddar cheese to
the flo u r m ixture before blending in the cream.
1072
Irish Soda Bread
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g milk
1. Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow
der,sugar,and
salt.
2 . Usingyourfingertips,gentlyrubthebutterinto
thedryingredients,untilitistheconsistencyof
cornmeal.
3.A
ddthecurrantsandcarawayseedsandtosstogether.
Addthemilkandblenduntilthedoughformsa
shaggymass.
4 . Turnoutthedoughontoalightlyflouredw
orksur
faceandkneadfor20seconds.
5. Scaleintoi-lb/454-gportionsandround.Placeon
aparchment-linedsheetpan.Dustthetopsofthe
loaveslightlywithflourand,withaparingknife,
gentlypressanXontothetopsurfaceofeachloaf.
6. Bakeina425F/2i8Covenuntilbrownedandbaked
through,45to60minutes. Totestfordoneness,
insertawoodenskewerintothethickestpartofthe
loaf.Theskewershouldnothaveanycrumbscling
ingtoit.
7. Rem
ovetheloavesfromthepanandcoolthemcom
pletelyonwireracksbeforeslicingandserving.
Makes10servings
1 ts p /6 g baking soda
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
4 '/2 o z /1 2 8 g sugar
8 eggs
2 lb /9 0 7 g buttermilk
1. Sifttheflour,bakingpow
der,bakingsoda,salt, and
sugarintoalargebowl.Makeawellinthecenter.
2.. Com
binetheeggswiththebuttermilkandmixwell.
Pourallatonceintothecenterofthedryingredi
ents.Mixslowlywithawhiskinacontrolledcircular
motion.
3.A
ddthebutterwhenaboutthree-quartersofthedry
ingredientsaremoistened.Continuetomixonly
untilthebutterisworkedin.Donotovermix.
4 . Keepthebattercool,ifm
akinglargebatches,by
holdingitoveranicebath,ordividingandkeeping
theextrabatterintherefrigerator.
5. H
eatalargeskilletorgriddleovermediumheat,
lightlygreasedwithvegetableoilorclarifiedbutter.
6. Ladleapproximately2V2floz/75mLofbatteronto
thepanforeachpancake.W
henbubblesbreakand
thebottomisgoldenbrown,1to2minutes,turn
over.Finishcookingonthesecondside,about1min
ute. Serveimmediately.
Basic W a ffle s: Replace the whole eggs w ith separated eggs.

Mix the egg yolks w ith the butterm ilk, and continue with
steps 2 and 3. Whip the egg whites to m edium -stiff
peaks. Fold the egg whites into the finished batter. Heat
a w a ffle iron to 350F/177C and grease it lightly with
oil. Ladle the b a tte r into the w a ffle iron, close it, and
cook the w a ffle s until golden brown and cooked through,
3 to 4 minutes. (The amount o f ba tte r required w ill vary
according to the size o f the w a ffle iron.)
Banana Pancakes: Omit 5 oz/142 g o f the butterm ilk. Add
8 oz/227 g chopped bananas.
C hocolate Chip Pancakes: Fold 8 o z/2 2 7 g chocolate chips
and 2 V 2 oz/71 g toasted pecans or walnuts into the
finished batter.
B lu eb erry Pancakes: Fold 8 oz/2 2 7 g blueberries into the
ba tte r ju st before cooking the pancakes.
O atm eal Pancakes: Replace 2 V 2 oz/71 g o f the flo u r with
4 o z /1 1 3 g oatmeal, 1 ts p /2 gground cinnamon,
ts p /
0.50 g grated nutmeg, and a pinch of ground cloves.
Va
ch a p te r 33 PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
pastry dough and batter recipes
B u tte rm ilk Pancakes
1073
Fried Bread (Pun)
Johnny Cakes
M akes 10 servings
M akes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g all-purpose flour
6 'A o tz lY ll g all-purpose flour
&A o z/1 7 7 g cornmeal
B tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil, plus

as needed for pan frying
l t s p /3 g s a lt
3 o z /8 5 g s u g a r
3/ t oz/21 g baking soda
1 . Placetheflourinabow
l, sprinklewiththesalt,and
add3tbsp/45mLoil. Graduallyaddthewaterand
kneadthedoughuntilfirm,about5minutes. Cover
thedoughwithamoistclothandletitrestfor15
minutes.
2 .Rollthedoughintoacylinder12in/30cmlongand
portionitinto12equalballs.Usingalittleflourfor
dusting,rolleachpieceofthedoughintoa5-in/
13-cmround.
3. Panfryeachpieceofdough,oneatatim
e, inoil
heatedto350F/i77Cuntilitpuffsupandbecomes
lightbrown,about40seconds.
4 . Serveim
mediately.
1074
V2 o z/1 4 g baking powder

1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g buttermilk
13A o z/5 0 g butter, melted

2 o z/5 7 g corn kernels, cooked (optional)
1. Sifttogethertheflour,cornm
eal, salt, sugar,baking
soda,andbakingpowderintoalargebowl.
2 Inaseparatebow
l,whisktogetherthebuttermilk,
eggs,andhalfofthemeltedbutter.
3.A
ddthewetingredientstothedryingredients.Add
theremainingbutter. Stirwithawoodenspoonto
combine.Thebatterwillbeslightlylumpy.
4 .A
ddthecorn,ifusing,andmixwell.
5. H
eatagriddleorlargecast-ironskilletuntilmoder
atelyhotandbrushlightlywithoil.
6. Foreachcake,dropthebatterontothegriddlewith
a2floz/6omLladle. Leaveabout1in/3cmfspace
betweenthecakes.
7. Cookthecakesuntiltheundersidesarebrow
n,the
edgesbegintodry,andbubblesbegintobreakthe
surfaceofthebatter, 3to5minutes.Turnthecakes
andcookthemuntilthesecondsidesarebrown,
about2minutes.
8. Servethecakesimmediatelyorkeepthemwarm,
uncovered,inalowoven.Donotholdthecakeslon
gerthan30minutes,ortheywillbecometough.
.
Crepes Suzette
Makes10servings
3 o z/8 5g su g a r
12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cubed
3 o z/8 5 g grated orange zest
6 o z/1 7 0 g orange juice
30 Dessert Crepes (recipe follows)
6 o z/1 7 0 g Grand Marnier
6 o z/1 7 0 g brandy or cognac
1 .W
orkinbatchesoflor2servingsatatime.
Sprinklethesugarevenlyacrossthebottomof
apreheatedsuzettepanovermediumheatona
rechaudwithoutallowingthespoontotouchthe
bottom(whichcancausethesugartocrystallize).
2 .A
sthesugarbeginstocaramelize,addthebutterat
theoutsideedgesofthepanandgentlyshakethe
pan;thisallowsthebuttertoevenlytemperand
blendwiththesugar.
3.A
ddthezestandgentlyshakethepantothorough
lyblendalltheingredients,whichshouldbecome
alightorangecaramelcolor.
4 .Slow
lypourinthejuiceattheoutsideedgesof
thepan,allowingittotemperandblendwiththe
sugar.
5.Shakethepangently,incorporatingalltheingredi
entsandallowingthesaucetothicken.
6. Sandwichonecrepebetweenaforkandaspoon
andplaceitintothesauce. Flipthecrepeoverto
coattheotherside. Setitasideonaparchmentlinedsheetpan.
7.Repeatw
iththeremainingcrepes,movingquickly
sothesaucedoesnotbecometoothick.
8. Removethepanfromtherechaudandaddthe
GrandMarnier. Donotflameit. Returnthepanto
therechaudandshakegently.
9 .Slidethepanbackandforthoverthefrontedgeof
therechaud,allowingthepantogethot.
10.Removethepan,addthebrandy,andtipthepan
slightlytoflame. Shakethepanuntiltheflame
dies.
11 .Platethreecrepesperportion,shinglingoneover
theother, andcoatwithsauce.
top:
Ladle the crepe b a tte r while sw irling it to coat the en
tire surface o f the pan evenly. Be sure th a t the crepe is o f a

uniform thickness or it w ill cook unevenly.
bottom
Once the edges turn golden brown, flip the crepe to
finish cooking it.
c h a p te r 33 PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BATTERS
1075
Dessert Crepes
P u ff Pastry Dough
Makes20to30crepes
Makes8lb12ozli-97kg
4 eggs
8 o z/2 2 7 g pastry flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
V2 o z/1 4 g vegetable oil
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g w a te r
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 o z/5 7 g confectioners' sugar
ROLL-IN
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg butter, pliable (60F/16C )
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vanilla extract
4 o z /1 1 3 g bread flour
1. Com
binetheeggs,cream,milk,andoilandbeatjust
untilblended.
2.. Sifttheflour,sugar,andsaltintoabow
l.
3.A
ddthewetingredientsandmixuntilsmooth,
scrapingdownthebowlasnecessary.Addtheva
nilla. Stirjustuntiltheingredientsareblended
intoarelativelysmoothbatter. (Thebattermaybe
preparedtothispointandrefrigeratedforupto12
hours. Strainthebatterifnecessarybeforecooking
thecrepes.)
4 . Ladleasm
allamountofbatterintoapreheated,but
teredcrepepanovermediumheat, swirlingthepan
tocoatthebottomwithbatter.
5.W
henthecrepehasset,turnitoverandfinishon
theotherside.
6. Fillasdesired,rollorfold,oruseinotherdesserts
(seeCrepesSuzette, page1075).
NOTE: The cooked crepes may be cooled, stacked between
parchment paper, and wrapped and refrigerated or
frozen. Thaw frozen crepes before fillin g and folding.
1 . Placetheflours,butter,w
ater,andsaltintothebowl
ofanelectricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.
2 .M
ixonlowspeeduntilasmoothdoughforms,about
3minutes.
3. Shapethedoughintoaroughrectangle.Transferit
toasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper,wrapthe
doughinplasticwrap,andallowittorelaxinthe
refrigeratorfor30to60minutes.
4 . Topreparetheroll-in,blendthebutterandflour
onlowspeedwiththepaddleuntilsmooth,about2
minutes. Transferittoasheetofparchmentpaper.
Coverwithasecondsheetandrollintoarectangle
8by12in/20by30cm.Squareofftheedges,cover
withplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirmbutstill
pliable. Donotallowtheroll-intobecomecold.
5.Tolocktheroll-inintothedough,transferthedough
toalightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollitintoa
rectangle16by24in/41by61cm,keepingtheedges
straightandthecornerssquare. Settheroll-inon
halfofthedoughandfoldtheremaininghalfof
thedoughovertheroll-in.Sealtheedges,turnthe
dough90degrees,androllitintoarectangle16by
24in/41by61cm,makingsuretheedgesarestraight
andthecornersaresquare.
6. Administerafour-fold.Coverthedoughinplastic
wrapandallowittorestfor30to45minutesinthe
refrigerator.
7 Turnthedoughgodegreesfromitspositionbefore
itwasrefrigeratedandrollitintoarectangle16by
24in/41by61cm,makingsuretheedgesarestraight
andthecornersaresquare.Administerathree-fold.
Coverthedoughinplasticwrapandallowittorest
for30to45minutesintherefrigerator.
.
1076
Blitz P u ff Pastry
Dough
Makes5lb/2.2ykg
1 lb /4 5 4 g cake flour
3/ t o z /2 1 gsalt
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g water, cold
1. Com
binethefloursinthebowlofanelectricmixer.
Addthebutterandtosswithyourfingertipsuntilthe
butteriscoatedwithflour.Dissolvethesaltinthe
waterandaddtotheflourallatonce. Mixonlow
speedwiththedoughhookuntilthedoughformsa
shaggymass.
2 .Turnthedoughoutontoaparchm
ent-linedsheet
pan.Tightlycoverthemixturewithplasticwrapand
allowittorestintherefrigeratoruntilthebutteris
firmbutnotbrittle,about20minutes.
3. Placethem
assonalightlyflouredworksurfaceand
rollitintoarectangleV2in/icmthickandapproxi
mately12by30in/30by76cm.
4 .Adm
inisterafour-fold.Rollthedoughagaintothe
samedimensions.Administerathree-fold.Tightly
wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandallowittorestin
therefrigeratorfor30to45minutes.
5. Repeatthisprocessforatotalof2four-foldsand2
three-folds, refrigeratingandturningthedough90
degreeseachtimebeforerolling.Aftercompleting
thefinalfold,wrapthedoughinplasticwrapand
allowittofirmintherefrigeratorforatleast1hour.
(Thedoughcanbeheldrefrigeratedorfrozen.)
ch a p te r 33 PA S T R Y D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
Repeatthisprocessforatotalof2four-foldsand2
three-folds,turningthedough90degreeseachtime
beforerollingandallowingthedoughtorestinthe
refrigeratorfor30to45minutes,coveredinplastic
wrap,betweeneachfold.
Aftercompletingthefinalfold,wrapthedoughin
plasticwrapandallowittorestintherefrigerator
foratleast1hourbeforeusing.
1077
Basic M u ffin Recipe
Bran M uffins
Makesl dozenmuffins
Makes1dozenmuffins
1 tb sp /9 g baking powder
1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar
8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g butter, soft
lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt
5 o z/1 4 2 g eggs
4 eggs
5 o z/1 4 2 g buttermilk
8 o z /2 2 7 gm ilk
2 o z/5 7 g honey
2Vi
oz/71 g vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g coarse sugar
1. Coatthem
uffintincupswithalightfilmoffator
useappropriatepaperliners.
2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingpow
der.
3. Creamthesugar,butter, andsaltinanelectricm
ixer
onmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdown
thebowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmooth
andlightincolor,about5minutes.
4 .W
hisktogethertheeggs,buttermilk,vanilla,and
oil.Addtothebutter-sugarmixtureintwoorthree
additions, mixinguntilfullyincorporatedaftereach
additionandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded.
5.A
ddthesifteddryingredientsandmixonlowspeed
untilevenlymoistened.
6. Scaleabout3oz/85gofbatterintoeachprepared
muffincup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull. Gently
tapthefilledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles. Sprinkle
withcoarsesugar.
7. Bakeat375F/i9iCuntilaskew
erinsertednearthe
centerofamuffincomesoutclean,about30minutes.
8. Coolthemuffinsinthetinsforafewminutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool
completely.
C ranberry-O range M u ffin s : Fold in 11 oz/312 gcranberries
(fresh or frozen) and I V 2 o z /4 3 g g ra te d orange zest
a fte r adding the dry ingredients.
Blu eb erry M u ffin s : Fold in 12 oz/340 g blueberries (fresh
or frozen) a fte r adding the dry ingredients.
1078
BAKING AND PASTRY
2 o z/5 7 g molasses
4 o z/1 1 3 g wheat bran
1. Coatthem
uffintincupswithalightfilmoffator
useappropriatepaperliners.
2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingpow
der.
3. Creamthesugar,butter,andsaltinanelectricm
ixer
onmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdown
thebowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmooth
andlightincolor,about5minutes.
4 . Com
binetheeggsandmilkandaddtothebutter
mixtureinthreeadditions,mixinguntilfullyincor
poratedaftereachadditionandscrapingdownthe
bowlasneeded.Addthehoneyandmolassesand
blenduntiltheyarejustincorporated.
5 .A
ddthesifteddryingredientsandthebranandmix
onlowspeeduntilevenlymoistened.
6. Scale3V2oz/99gofbatterintoeachpreparedmuffin
cup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull.Gentlytapthe
filledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
7. Bakeat375^/19iCuntilaskew
erinsertednearthe
centerofamuffincomesoutclean,about20minutes.
8. Coolthemuffinsinthetinsforafewminutes,then
completely.
Makes1dozenmuffins
Banana-Nut Bread
Makes6loaves
4 lb 4 o z/1.93 kg bananas, very ripe, unpeeled
5 o z/1 4 2 g cornmeal
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 tb sp /9 g baking powder
4 eggs
V* oz/21 g baking soda
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
l /4 ts p /4 g salt
6 o z/1 7 0 g vegetable oil
2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg sugar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL orange juice concentrate
6 eggs
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1. Coatthem
uffintincupswithalightfilmofbutter
andalightdustingofcornmeal,oruseappropriate
paperliners.
2 . Com
binetheflour,cornmeal, salt,andbakingpow
derinabowlandstirtogetherwithawirewhisk.
3. Com
binetheeggs,milk,oil, orangejuiceconcen
trate,andsugarinanelectricmixerandmixonme
diumspeedwiththepaddleuntillightincolorand
smooth,about2minutes.
4 .A
ddthedryingredientstotheeggmixtureand
blendonmediumspeedjustuntilcombined,scrap
ingdownthebowlasnecessary.
5. Scaleabout3oz/85gofbatterintoeachprepared
muffincup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull. Gently
tapthefilledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
6. Bakeat400F/204Cuntilaskewerinsertednear
thecenterofamuffincomesoutclean,about20
minutes.
7. Coolthem
uffinsinthetinsforafewminutes, then
completely.
8 o z /2 2 7 g pecans
1. Coatsix2-lb/907-gloafpansw
ithalightfilmoffat.
2 . Pureethebananasandlem
onjuicetogether.
3. Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow
der,bakingsoda,
andsalt.
4 . Com
binethesugar,bananapuree,eggs,andoilinan
electricmixerandmixonmediumspeedwiththe
paddleuntilblended.Scrapethebowlasneeded.
5. A
ddthesifteddryingredientsandmixjustuntil
combined.Mixinthepecans.
6. Scale1lb14oz/851gofthebatterintoeachprepared
loafpan.Gentlytapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyair
bubbles.
7. Bakeat350F/i77Cuntilthebreadspringsback
whenpressedandatesterinsertednearthecenter
comesoutclean,about55minutes.
8. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewminutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool
completely.
Corn M uffins
Corn bread: Coat a pan 9 by 9 in/23 by 23 cm in diam eter

w ith a light film o f b u tte r and a light dusting o f
cornmeal. Pour the ba tte r into the pan and bake at
400F/204C until a skewer inserted near the center
comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Allow the bread to
cool and cut into desired shapes.
1079
>e 1081), Blueberry M u ffin s (page 1078),

and Banana-Nut Bread (page 1079)
Makes4loaves
Pound Cake
Makes4cakes
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sugar
3Aoz/21 g baking soda
1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest
l'/2 t s p /5 g s a lt
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg sugar
3Ao z/21 g baking powder
2 lb /9 0 7 g pumpkin puree
2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs
8 eggs
13 o z/3 69 g water
7 o z /1 9 8 g chopped toasted pecans
1. Coatfour2-lb/go7-gloafpansw
ithalightfilmoffat
oruseappropriatepanliners.
2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow
der,bakingsoda,
salt,andcinnamon.
3. Com
binetheoil, sugar,pumpkinpuree,eggs,and
waterinanelectricmixer. Usingthepaddle,mixon
lowspeeduntilfullyblended.
4 .A
ddthesifteddryingredientsandblendjustuntil
incorporated,scrapingthesidesofthebowlasnec
essary.Blendinthenuts.
5. Scalel lb14oz/851gofbatterintoeachpan.Gently
tapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
6. Bakeina350F/i77Covenuntilaskewerinserted
nearthecenterofeachloafcomesoutcleanandthe
centersspringbackwhengentlypressed,1to1V2
hours.
7. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewm
inutes.
Removefromthepansandcoolcompletelyonwire
racksbeforeslicingandservingorwrappingfor
storage.
1. Greasefour2-lb/907-gloafpansandlinew
ithparch
mentpaper.
2 . Creamthebutter, sugar,lem
onzest,andsaltinan
electricmixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle,
scrapingdownthebowlasneeded,untilthemixture
issmoothandlightincolor.
3. Sifttogethertheflour,cornstarch,andbakingpow
der.
4.M
ixingonlowspeed,addtheeggsalternatelywith
thesifteddryingredientsinthreestages.
5. Scale1lb10oz/737gofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.
6. Bakeina375F/i9iCovenuntilaskewerinserted
nearthecenterofthecakecomesoutclean,about
45minutes.
7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm
inutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool
completely.
Pumpkin Bread
1081
Devil's Food Cake
Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)
Makes5tubecakes(8in/20cmeach)
B lb 13 oz/1.73 kg sugar
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 k g s u g a r
2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg cake flour
V2o z/1 4 g cream of tartar
VA o z/3 5 g baking soda
15'/2 o z/4 3 9 g cake flour
2'A ts p /7.50 g baking powder
lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt
12 eggs
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg egg whites
1 lb 9 o z/7 09 g butter, melted and kept warm
3 lb 2 oz/1.42 kg warm water

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract
15 o z/4 2 5 g cocoa powder, sifted
1. Coatsix8-in/20-cmpansw
ithalightfilmoffatand
linethemwithparchmentcircles.
2 . Siftthesugar,flour,bakingsoda,andbakingpow
der
intothebowlofanelectricmixer.
3. Blendtheeggsinaseparatebow
l.Mixthemintothe
dryingredientsonmediumspeedwiththepaddle
inthreeadditions.Mixuntilfullyincorporatedafter
eachadditionandscrapedownthebowlasneeded.
4 .A
ddthebutterandmixuntilevenlyblended.Add
thewaterandvanillaandmix,scrapingdownthe
bowlperiodically,untilasmoothbatterforms.Add
thecocoapowderandmixuntilevenlyblended.
5. Scale2lb3oz/992gofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.
6. Bakeat35O0F/i77Cuntilaskewerinsertednearthe
centerofacakecomesoutclean,about45minutes.
7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm
inutes,then
unmoldandtransfertowirerackstocoolcompletely.
1082
Angel Food Cake
B A K IN G A N D PAST RY
1. Sprinkletheinsidesoffive8-in/20-cmtubepans
lightlywithwater.
2.. Com
bine1lb4oz/567gofthesugarwiththecream
oftartar. Sifttheremaining1lb4oz/567gsugar
withtheflourandsalt.
3. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites
andvanillatosoftpeaksonmediumspeedwiththe
wirewhip.
4 . Graduallyaddthesugar-creamoftartarm
ixtureto
theeggwhites,whippingonmediumspeeduntil
mediumpeaksform.
5. Gentlyfoldthesiftedsugar-flourm
ixtureintothe
eggwhitesjustuntilincorporated.
6. Scale15oz/425gofbatterintoeachpreparedtube
pan.
7. Bakeat350F/i77Cuntilacakespringsbackw
hen
lightlytouched,about35minutes.
8. Inverteachtubepanontoafunnelorlong-necked
bottleonawireracktocool.Alternatively,foreach
cake, invertasmallramekinontopofawirerack
andpropthecakepanupsidedownandatanangle
ontheramekin.Allowthecakestocoolcompletely
upsidedown.
9 . Carefullyrunapaletteknifearoundthesidesofeach
panandaroundthecentertubetoreleasethecake.
Shakethepangentlytoinvertthecakeontothewire
rack.
Chocolate XS Cake
6 o z/1 70 g vegetable oil
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g water
1 tb sp /15 mL vanilla extract
2 lb 1 1'/2 o z/1 .2 3 kg sugar
18 eggs
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g sugar
2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g cake flour, sifted
2 lb 11 o z/1.22 kg butter, melted
1. Coatfour8-in/20-cmpansw
ithalightfilmoffat
andlinethemwithparchmentcircles.
2 . Blendtheoilw
iththevanilla.
3. Com
binetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelec
tricmixer. Setthebowloverapanofbarelysimmer
ingwaterandwhiskconstantlyuntilthemixture
reachesnoF/43C.
4 . Putthebow
lonthemixerandwhiponhighspeed
withthewirewhipuntilthefoamreachesmaxi
mumvolumeandisnolongerincreasinginvolume.
Stabilizethefoambywhippingfor15minuteson
mediumspeed.
5. Gentlyfoldintheflour.Tem
perintheoilmixture.
6. Scale1lb/454gofbatterintoeachpreparedcake
pan.Thepanshouldbetwo-thirdsfull.
7. Bakeat35O
0F/i77Cuntilthetopsofthecakes
springbackwhenlightlytouched,about30minutes.
8. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewminutes,
thenunmoldandtransfertowirerackstocool
completely.
C hocolate Sponge Cake: Replace 4 o z /1 13 g o f the flou r
w ith Dutch-process cocoa powder. S ift the cocoa
3 lb 10 o z/1 .64 kg eggs

1. Brushtheinsidesofsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw
ith
softenedbutterandlinewithparchmentcircles.
2 . Com
binethewaterand1lb13oz/822gofthesugar
inaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboil.
Removefromtheheat, addbothchocolates,andstir
untilthechocolatesaremelted.Stirinthebutter.
Letthemixturecooltoroomtemperature.
3.W
hiptheeggs,theremaining14V2oz/411gsugar,
andthevanillainanelectricmixeronhighspeed
withthewirewhip,untillightandfluffy,about4V2
minutes.
4 . Gentlyfoldthechocolatem
ixtureintotheegg
mixture.
5. Scale2lb5oz/1.05kgofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.
6. Bakeinawaterbathat350F/i77Cuntilthetopsof
thecakesfeelfirm,about1hour.
7. Coolcom
pletelyonwireracks,thenwrapinplastic
wrapandrefrigerateovernightinthepansbefore
unmolding.
Vanilla Sponge Cake
together w ith the flour.
1083
Cheesecake
Makes6cheesecakes(8in/20cmeach)
1 lb 14 o z/851 g Graham Cracker
Crust (recipe follows)
7 lb 8 oz/3.40 kg cream cheese
Graham Cracker Crust
Makes1lb4oz/567g
14 o z/3 9 7 g graham cracker crumbs
2 A oz/71 g light brown sugar

3 V2 o z/9 9
g butter, melted
2 lb 4 o z /1 .0 2 k g s u g a r
'/2 o z/1 4 g salt

16 eggs
5 egg yolks
Processthecrumbs, sugar,andbutterinafoodpro
cessorjustuntilcrumbly,about5minutes. Thecrust
isreadytobepressedintopreparedpansandbaked.
15 o z/4 2 5 g heavy cream

1 . Coatsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw
ithalightfilmoffat
andlinethemwithparchmentcircles.
2 . Press5oz/142gofthecrustm
ixtureevenlyintothe
bottomofeachpan.
3. Com
binethecreamcheese, sugar,andsaltandmix
inanelectricmixeronmediumspeedwiththe
paddle,occasionallyscrapingdownthebowl,until
themixtureiscompletelysmooth,about3minutes.
4 .W
hisktogethertheeggsandeggyolks.Addtothe
creamcheesemixtureinfouradditions,mixinguntil
fullyincorporatedaftereachadditionandscraping
downthebowlasneeded.
5.A
ddthecreamandvanillaandmixuntiltheyare
fullyincorporated.
6. Scale2lb8oz/1.13kgofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.Gentlytapthepanstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
7. Bakeinahotw
aterbathat325F/i63Cuntilthe
centersofthecakesareset, about1hour15minutes.
8. Coolthecakescompletelyinthepansonwireracks.
W
rapthecakes,inthepans,inplasticwrapandre
frigerateovernighttofullyset.
9 .Tounm
old,applythegentleheatofalowopen
flametothebottomandsidesofeachcakepan.Run
aknifearoundthesideofthepan.Placeaplastic
wrap-coveredcakecircleontopofthecake,invert,
andtapthebottomofthepantoreleasethecake,if
necessary.Removethepan,peeloffthepaperfrom
thebottomofthecake,andturnitontoacakecircle
orservingplate.
Pate a Choux
Makes6lb/2.72kg
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter
l'/2 t s p /7 .5 0 g sugar
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs
1. Bringthem
ilk,water,butter,sugar,andsalttoaboil
overmediumheat, stirringconstantly.
2 .Rem
ovefromtheheat,addtheflourallatonce,and
stirvigorouslytocombine.Returnthepantomedium
heatandcook,stirringconstantly,untilthemixture
pullsawayfromthesidesofthepan,about3minutes.
3. Transferthem
ixturetothebowlofanelectricmixer
andbeatbrieflyonmediumspeedwiththepaddle.
Addtheeggstwoatatime,beatinguntilsmoothaf
tereachaddition.
4 . Thepateachouxisreadytobepipedandbaked(see
page1064.)
NOTE: Por a drier and deeper blond pate a choux, substitute
an equal amount o f water fo r the milk.
G ougeres (G ruyere Cheese P uffs): A fte r adding all the

eggs to the pate a choux, add lA tsp/0.50 g cayenne and
1 lb /4 54 g grated Gruyere to the dough. Continue mixing
fo r 1 minute. Transfer the dough to a pastry bag with
a plain tip and pipe into domes 3/t in / 2 cm in diameter.
Bake fo r about 35 minutes in a 350F/177C oven. Serve
warm or store in a irtig h t containers.
1084
Makes1dozeneclairs
P ro fite ro le s
Makes1dozenprofiteroles
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (recipe precedes)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (page 1084)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
2 o z/5 7 g sliced almonds
1 lb /4 5 4 g fondant (see page 1120)
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
4 o z /1 13 g dark chocolate, melted
12 o z/3 4 0 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
Light corn syrup, as needed
9 o z/2 5 5 g Chantilly Cream (page 1023)
1. Pipethepateachouxintocylinders,4in/10cmlong,
onparchment-linedsheetpans,usingano.8plain
pipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash.
2 . Bakeat36oF/i82Cuntilthecracksform
edinthe
pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes.
3. Coolthepastriestoroomtem
peratureonthepans.
4 . Pierceeachendoftheeclairsw
ithaskewerorsimi
larinstrument.
5. Filltheeclairsw
iththepastrycreamfromeachend,
usingano.1plainpipingtip.
6. W
armthefondantoverahotwaterbath,addthe
chocolate, andthintotheproperviscositywiththe
cornsyrup.
7.Topthefilledeclairsw
iththechocolatefondantei
therbydippingthetopsorbyenrobingthemusing
thebackofaspoon.
C hocolate Eclairs: S ub stitute Chocolate Pastry Cream
(page 1099) fo r the pastry cream.
Confectioners sugar, as needed
1. Pipethepateachouxintobulbs, 1V2in/4cmindi
ameter,ontoparchment-linedsheetpansusingano.
5plainpipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash.
2 . Stickseveralalm
ondslicesintothetopofeachbulb
sothattheyprotrudefromthetop.Sprinkleeach
bulblightlywithsugar.
3. Bakeat36oF/i82Cuntilthecracksform
edinthe
pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes.
4 . Coolthepastriestoroomtem
peratureonthepan.
5. Slicethetopoffeachofthebakedpastries. Pipethe
pastrycreamintothebasesusingano.5plainpastry
tip,beingcarefulnottooverfillthem.
6. PipeadoublerosetteofChantillycreamontopof
thepastrycreamusingano.5startip.
7 PlacethetopsofthepastriesontheC
hantillycream,
andlightlydustwithconfectionerssugar.
Eclairs
Ice C re a m -F ille d P ro fite ro le s : S ubstitute Vanilla IceCream

(page 1157) fo r the pastry cream. Omit the almonds,
sugar, Chantilly cream, and confectioners'sugar. Slice
the top o ff each pro fite role. Scoop the ice cream using a
no. 50 scoop, and place it in the bases. Replace the tops
on the pastries and serve w ith Chocolate Sauce (page
1129), if desired.
1085
1-2-3 Cookie Dough

Makes6lb/2.72kg
Makes32biscotti
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
l t s p / 6 g baking soda
3 eggs
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
6 '/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar
3 lb /1 .36 kg cake flour, sifted
l ' / t ts p /4 g salt
1 . Creamthebutter, sugar,andvanillainanelectric
mixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scraping
downthebowlperiodically,untilsmoothandlight
incolor.Addtheeggsgradually,afewatatime,
scrapingdownthebowlandblendinguntilsmooth
aftereachaddition.Addtheflourallatonceandmix
onlowspeedjustuntilblended.
2 . Scalethedoughasdesired.W
raptightlyandrefriger
ateforatleast1hourbeforerolling.(Thedoughcan
berefrigeratedorfrozen.)
1086
AlmonchAnise Biscotti
1 ts p /5 mL anise extract
7 o z /1 9 8 g whole almonds
2 tb s p /1 2 g anise seeds
1 . Lineasheetpanw
ithparchmentpaper.
2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingsoda.
3.W
hiptheeggs,sugar,salt,andextractinanelectric
mixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilthick
andlightincolor,about5minutes. Mixinthedry
ingredientsonlowspeedjustuntilincorporated.
4 .A
ddthealmondsandaniseseedsbyhandandblend
untilevenlycombined.
5. Formthedoughintoalog4by16in/10by41cmand
placeitonthepreparedsheetpan.
6. Bakeat300F/i49Cuntillightgoldenbrownand
firm,about1hour. Lowertheoventemperatureto
275F/i35C.Removethepanfromtheovenand
coolfor10minutes.
7. Usingaserratedknife, cutthelogcrossw
iseinto
slicesV2in/icmthick.Laythemflatonthesheet
panandbake,turningthebiscottioncehalfway
through,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp,20to25
minutestotal.
8. Transferthebiscottitowireracksandcool
completely.
Pecan Diamonds
Makes100pieces(1in/3cmeach)
2 lb /9 0 7 g 1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086)
PECAN FILLING
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, cubed
1 lb /4 5 4 g light brown sugar
4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar
12 o z/3 4 0 g honey
2 lb /9 0 7 g pecans, coarsely chopped
1 . Rolloutthedoughtoarectangle14by18in/36by46
cmandVsin/3mmthick.Layitgentlyinahalfsheet
pansothatitcompletelylinesthebottomandsides.
Dockthedoughwithapastrydockerorthetinesofa
fork.
2 . Bakeat350F/i77Cuntillightgoldenbrow
n,about
10minutes.
3.Tom
akethefilling,cookthebutter,sugars,honey,
andcreaminaheavy-bottomedsaucepanover
medium-highheat,stirringconstantly,untilthe
mixturereaches240F/n6C.Addthenutsandstir
untilfullyincorporated.Immediatelypourintothe
prebakedcrustandspreadintoanevenlayer.
4 . Bakeat350F/i77Cuntilthefillingbubblesor
foamsevenlyacrossthesurfaceandthecrustis
goldenbrown,25to30minutes. Coolcompletelyin
thepan.
5. Usingam
etalspatula,releasethesheetfromthe
sidesofthepanandinverttheslabontothebackof
ahalfsheetpan.Transferittoacuttingboard,care
fullyflippingitoversoitisrightsideup.Trimoffthe
edges.Cutintoi-in/3-cmdiamonds.
Chocolate Chunk
Cookies
Makes12dozencookies
4 lb 5 oz/1.96 kg all-purpose flour
r /2 o z/4 3 g salt
2 lb 14 o z/1.30 kg butter, soft
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g sugar
1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g light brown sugar
9 eggs
2 tbsp plus l '/2 ts p /3 8 mL vanilla extract
4 lb 5 o z/1 .9 6 kg semisweet chocolate chunks
1 . Linesheetpansw
ithparchmentpaper.
2.. Sifttogethertheflour,salt,andbakingsoda.
3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm
ixeron
mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe
bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand
lightincolor, about5minutes.
4 . Com
binetheeggsandvanilla.Addtothebuttersugarmixtureinthreeadditions, mixinguntilfully
incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown
thebowlasneeded.Mixinthesifteddryingredients
andthechocolatechunksonlowspeedjustuntil
incorporated.
5. ScalethedoughintoiVi-oz/43-gportionsandplace
themonthepreparedpans.Alternatively,scalethe
doughinto2-lb/907-gportions, shapeintologs16
in/41cmlong,wraptightlyinparchmentpaper,and
refrigerateuntilfirmenoughtoslice. Sliceeachlog
into16piecesandarrangeonthepreparedsheet
pansinevenrows.
6. Bakeat375F/i9iCuntilgoldenbrownaroundthe
edges, 12to14minutes.
7. Coolcom
pletelyonthepans.
C h e rry-C h o co la te Chunk Cookies: Add 2 lb/907 g chopped

dried cherries along w ith the chocolate.
1088
Makes
1 2 A
IO V 2
dozen cookies
o z/2 9 8 g cake flour
Oatmeal-Raisin
Cookies
M akes
12
dozen cookies
Vi o z/1 4 g salt
4 o z /1 13 g brewed espresso
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped
4 lb/1.81 kg bittersweet chocolate, chopped
IO V 2
o z/2 9 8 g butter, soft

V2 o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon

V2 o z/1 4 g salt
3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft
1 lb 3 o z /5 3 9 g s u g a r
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg light brown sugar
22 eggs
4 lb/1.81 kg sugar
10 eggs
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g walnuts, chopped

3 lb 3 o z/1 .45 kg rolled oats
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg semisweet chocolate chips
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g raisins
1. Linesheetpansw
ithparchmentpaper.
2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow
der,andsalt.
3. Blendtheespressoandvanilla.
4 .M
eltthechocolatestogetherwiththebutterovera
doubleboiler. Stirtoblend.
5. Beattheeggs,sugar,andcoffeem
ixtureinanelec
tricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntil
lightandthick,6to8minutes. Blendinthechoco
latemixtureonmediumspeed.Mixinthedryingre
dientsonlowspeedjustuntilblended.Blendinthe
walnutsandchocolatechipsjustuntilincorporated.
6. Scalethedoughinto2-oz/57-gportionsandarrange
themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor
tions, shapeintologs16in/41cmlong,wraptightly
inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm
enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar
rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
7. Bakeat350F/i77Cuntilthecookiesarecrackedon
topbutstillappearslightlymoist, about12minutes.
8. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto
wireracksandcoolcompletely.
1 . Linesheetpansw
ithparchmentpaper.
2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingsoda,cinnam
on,and
salt.
3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm
ixeron
mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe
bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand
lightincolor, about10minutes. Blendtheeggsand
vanillaandaddtothebutter-sugarmixtureinthree
additions,mixingaftereachadditionuntilfullyin
corporatedandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded.
Mixinthesifteddryingredients,oats,andraisinson
lowspeedjustuntilincorporated.
4 . Scalethedoughinto2-ozl^j-gportionsandarrange
themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor
tions, shapeintologsi6-in/4i-cmlong,wraptightly
inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm
enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar
rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
5. Bakeat375F/i9iCuntilthecookiesarelightgold
enbrown,about12minutes.
6. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto
wireracksandcoolcompletely.
Mudslide Cookies
1089
NutTuile Cookies
Makes25cookies
Makes1sheetpanor60brownies(2by3in/5by8cmeach)
2 o z/5 7 g blanched almonds
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped
B o z/8 5 g blanched hazelnuts
2 lb 4 oz/1.02 kg butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
1 lb 1 4 o z /8 5 1 g eggs
2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour
4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 k g s u g a r
Pinch salt
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla
4 egg whites
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour, sifted
1. Linesheetpansw
ithparchmentpaperorsilicone
bakingmats. Havestencilsandanoffsetspatula
nearby,aswellasshapingimplementssuchascups,
dowels,orrollingpins,dependingonthedesired
shapes.
2 . Com
binethealmonds,hazelnuts, andsugarina
foodprocessorandpulsetogrindtoafinepowder.
Addtheflourandsaltandpulseseveraltimesto
combine.Transfertoalargebowl.
3. W
hiptheeggwhitesinanelectricmixeronhigh
speedwiththewirewhipuntilmediumpeaksform.
Usingarubberspatula,gentlyfoldtheeggwhites
intothenutmixtureinthreeadditions.
4 . Usingtheoffsetspatulaanddesiredtem
plate, spread
thebatteronthepreparedsheetpans.
5. Bakeat375F/i9iCuntilanevenlightbrow
n,about
10minutes.
6. Removethetuilesfromtheovenandimmediately
shapethem.Iftheybegintogettoofirm,putthem
backintheovenforafewsecondstosoften,then
formimmediately.
1090
Fudge Brownies
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g chopped pecans or walnuts
1. Lineasheetpanw
ithparchmentpaper.
2 .M
eltthechocolateandbuttertogetheroverapan
ofsimmeringwater. Donotletthemixtureexceed
hoF/43C.Removefromtheheatandcooltoroom
temperature.
3. Com
binetheeggs,sugar,andvanillaandwhipinan
electricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipun
tilthickandlightincolor.
4 .A
ddthechocolateandbuttertotheeggmixtureus
ingaliaison(seepage249).
5.Blendone-thirdoftheeggm
ixtureintothechoco
latemixturetolightenit,thenfoldintheremaining
eggmixture. Gentlyfoldintheflour.
6. Foldin1lb/454gofthenuts. Pourontotheprepared
sheetpanandsprinkletheremainingnutsontop.
7. Bakeat350F/i77Cfor30m
inutesoruntilfirmto
thetouch.
8. Coolthebrowniesinthepanforafewminutes,then
unmoldontoawirerack.Peeloffthepaperandcool
completelybeforecutting.
custards, creams
and mousses
When baked, eggs, milk, and sugar result in a smooth and creamy baked
custard. When stirred together over gentle heat, these same ingredient
become custard sauce. Starches or gelatin can be included to pro d u cd i
textures th a t range from thick but spoonable to a sliceable cream. ^
Folding meringue or whipped cream into the custard or cream
produces a cold mousse, Bavarian, or diplomat cream. For a
souffle, meringue is folded into a base and baked.
S IM P LE
BAKED
CUSTARD CALLS
FOR
B L E N D IN G
EGGS, A LIQ.UID
SUCH
AS
M IL K
OR CR EA M , AND
S U G A R A N D B A K IN G U N T I L SET. M A S C A R P O N E , C R E A M C H E E S E , OR A N O T H E R S O F T F R E S H C H E E S E M A Y
BE S U B S T I T U T E D F O R P A R T O F T H E C R E A M T O Y I E L D A R I C H E R A N D F I R M E R R E S U L T , S U C H A S F O R A
C H E E S E C A K E . T h e P R O P O R T I O N O F E G G S A L S O M A Y BE V A R I E D , A S M A Y T H E C H O I C E O F W H O L E E G G S ,
Y O L K S O N L Y , OR A C O M B I N A T I O N O F T H E T W O . U S I N G A L L W H O L E E G G S G I V E S M O R E S T R U C T U R E TO A
C U S T A R D T H A T I S TO BE S E R V E D U N M O L D E D .
baked custards
There are tw o basic m ethods fo r com bining th e in g re d ie n ts to make a baked custard: warm
and cold. For the cold m ethod o f m ixing a custa rd base, th e in g re d ie n ts are sim p ly s tirre d
to g e th e r, then poured in to m olds and baked. This m ethod is e ffe c tiv e f o r sm all batches.
To m ix a custa rd base using th e w arm m ethod, heat th e m ilk o r cream and some o f the
sugar, s tirrin g w ith a wooden spoon, u n til th e sugar is c o m p le te ly dissolved. Add the f la
vorings a t th is p o in t and allow the m to steep o f f th e heat and covered, if necessary, long
enough fo r the m to im p a rt a rich, fu ll flavo r. Blend th e eggs and th e rem aining sugar to
make a liaison and b ring th e m ilk o r cream to a boil. W hisking c o n sta n tly, slo w ly add about
o n e -th ird o f th e h o t m ilk a fe w la d le fu ls a t a tim e to th e liaison, to te m p e r it. Once th e lia i
son is tem pe red , you can add the re s t o f th e h o t m ilk m ore ra p id ly w ith o u t scram bling the
egg m ixture .
Ladle th e custa rd in to m olds (coa t the m w ith a lig h t film o f so fte n e d b u tte r if you in
ten d to unm old th e custa rd ) and bake the m in a hot w a te r bath. The w a te r bath keeps the
heat co n sta n t and gentle, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth te x tu re in the baked custard. To check the
custa rd fo r doneness, shake th e m old gently: when th e rip ple s on th e surface move back
and fo rth , ra th e r than in con cen tric rings, th e custa rd is p ro p e rly baked.
C a refully rem ove th e m olds fro m th e w a te r bath and w ipe th e m olds dry. Place them
on a cool sheet pan, allow them to cool, and then re frig e ra te them . For crem e caram el, an
ove rnight re s tin g pe rio d (o p tim a lly 2 4 hours) is essential, n o t only to c o m p le te ly se t the
custa rd so it can be unm olded, b u t also to allow th e caram el to liq u e fy in to a sauce.
HOT WATER BATH
Ahotwaterbath,orbain-marie,ensures
gentleheatataconstanttemperature, al
lowingforevenbakingorcooking.Using
ahotwaterbathforbakingcustardsalso
preventsboththeformationofacrustand
crackingofthecustardssurface.
Selectapanwithsidesatleastashigh
asthesidesofthemolds.Setthemoldsin
thepanastheyarefilled,leavingabout1
in/3cmaroundeachmoldsoitwillbesur
roundedbyhotwater. Setthepansecurely
ontheovendeckorrack.Addenoughvery
1092
hotorboilingwatertothepantocome
toabouttwo-thirdsoftheheightofthe
molds.Becarefulnottosplashorpourany
waterintothecustards.
Aftercustardsareproperlybakedand
removedfromtheoven,theyshouldbe
removedfromthehotwaterbath.This
willstopthecookingprocessandallowthe
custardstocool. Custardswillcontinueto
cookifleftinthehotwaterbathafterthey
areremovedfromtheoven,whichmay
causethemtobecomeoverdone.
prepared
on
th e
s to v eto p
, such
as
v a n il l a
s a u c e
, must
be
s t ir r e d
c o n sta n tly
D U R I N G C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E S T A G E O F N A P P E ( c o a t i n g T H E B A C K O F A s p o o n ). C r e a m s A N D P U D D I N G S
T H A T A R E T H I C K E N E D W I T H S T A R C H A N D C O O K E D O N T H E S T O V E T O P M U S T BE S T I R R E D C O N S T A N T L Y
U N T I L T H E Y C O M E T O A F U L L B O I L , B O T H S O T H E S T A R C H IS H E A T E D S U F F I C I E N T L Y TO T H I C K E N T H E
M IX T U R E
AND
TO
REMOVE
ANY
U N D E S IR A B LE
FLAVOR
AND
M O UTHFEEL THAT
UNCOOKED
custards
C ustards
STARCH
C O N T R IB U TE S .
stirred custards,
creams, and
puddings
Some recipes fo r s tirre d custards, creams, and puddings may include w hole m ilk, w hile
oth e rs call f o r heavy cream, lig h t cream, or a com b in ation o f cream and m ilk. Some recipes
use only egg yolks; oth ers use w hole eggs or a blend o f w hole eggs and egg yolks.
It is esp ecially im p o rta n t to have all th e necessary
eq uipm en t assem bled b e fo re beginning, including a heavy-
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
b o tto m e d p o t o r a bain-m arie, a fin e -m e sh sieve or conical

sieve, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d ite m during coo l
ing and sto rin g . To cool th e custards, creams, o r puddings
ra p id ly and safe ly, have an ice w a te r bath ready.
1. C a re fu lly scale or m easure all

ing re d ie nts.
2.
H eat th e m ilk or m ilk /c re a m

co m bination w ith h a lf o f the
sugar to ju s t below a boil.
3.
W hisk to g e th e r the eggs w ith

the rem ainder o f the sugar.
4.
Temper the eggs w ith the hot

m ilk, s tirrin g co n s ta n tly and
re tu rn th e te m p e re d eggs to
th e pan.
5.
S tirrin g co n sta n tly, cook the

sauce over low heat ju s t u n til
it has reached th e p o in t o f
nappe (185F).
c h a p te r 34 CU S TAR D S, C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1093
1. combine the milk
w ith h a lf o f the
sugar (and a van illa bean, i f using) and b ring it to a simmer.

C om bine th e egg y olks or eggs w ith the rem aining sugar in
a s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl.
H e atin g th e m ilk o r cream w ith th e sugar dissolves the
sugar fo r a sm oother, s ilk ie r fin is h e d te x tu re . If a vanilla
bean is used to fla v o r the sauce, add th e seeds and the
e m p ty pod to th e m ilk (or cream ) and sugar as it heats.
(Vanilla e x tra c t may be used in ste ad o f van illa beans. Add
th e e x tra c t ju s t b e fo re the sauce is strained.) H eat the
m ilk ju s t to the b o ilin g po in t. Keep an eye on it as it heats
since it can ea sily b o il over as it nears the b o ilin g point.
B ea ting th e eggs and sugar to g e th e r pre ven ts the
eggs fro m coo kin g when th e y are com bined w ith the hot
m ilk. Blend th e in g re d ie n ts w ell w ith a w h isk f o r long
enough to d issolve th e sugar in th e eggs.
method in detail
2. temper the hot milk
in to the egg
m ix tu re to produce a sm oo th sauce. Ladle the h o t m ilk

in to th e egg m ix tu re a litt le a t a tim e, s tirrin g c o n sta n tly,
u n til ab o u t o n e -th ird o f th e m ilk or cream m ix tu re has
been blended in to th e eggs. Add th e te m p e re d egg m ix
tu re to th e re s t o f th e h o t m ilk. Continue to cook the
sauce over low he at u n til it begins to thicken, s tirrin g
c o n s ta n tly to p re ve n t it fro m overcooking. Do not le t the
sauce come to a boil, because th e egg yolks w ill coagulate
w ell below th e b o ilin g po in t. The te m p e ra tu re o f th e sauce
should n o t go above 180F /82C , o r it w ill begin to curdle.
The sauce is cooked when it has thicke ne d enough to
coa t the back o f a wooden spoon.
1094
vanilla sauce
3. the finished vanilla sauce should

coa t th e back o f a w ooden spoon and hold a line drawn
th ro u g h it. W hen it reaches th is stage, s tra in it im m e d i
a te ly th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve in to a container. Cool
the sauce in an ice w a te r ba th i f it is to be held f o r la te r
storag e or served cold, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly as it cools, and
re frig e ra te it im m e d ia te ly. Place a piece o f p la s tic wrap
on th e surface to p re ve n t a skin fro m fo rm in g .
A good van illa sauce is th ic k and g lossy and coa ts th e
back o f a wooden spoon. It shows no signs o f curdling.
This sauce should have a sm ooth, luxurio us m o u th fe e l,
w ith a w e ll-b alance d flavo r.
MAKING ICE CREAM FROM V A N ILLA SAUCE
Thistypeofbaseshouldbeallowedtomature
intherefrigeratoratapproximately40/4Cfor
severalhoursbeforefreezing.Thiswillresultina
smoothericecream.
Tochurntheicecream,runthechilledbasedin
anicecreamfreezeronlytosoft-serveconsistency.
Extractitfromthemachine,packintocontainers,
andplaceinafreezerforseveralhourstoallowitto
firmtoaservabletemperatureandconsistency.
Alloftheingredientsaddflavortotheice
cream,buteachonealsoplaysapartindetermin
ingconsistencyandmouthfeel.Theeggsmakeit
richandsmooth.Forbestresults,useamixtureof
milkandcreamtoavoidhavingtoomuchbutterfat
inthemix.Themilkandcreamallowforincor
porationofairduringfreezing,givingthefinal
productasmoothermouthfeelandlighterbody.
However,toomuchincorporatedairwilldiminish
theflavor,maketheicecreamtoosoft,andmake
itmeltquickly.Sugarbothaddssweetnessand
lowersthefreezingpointofthebase,keepingthe
icecreamfromfreezingtoohard.
Thereareanumberofdifferentmethodsfor
addingflavoringstoicecreams.Youmaysimply
infusethesaucewithflavorwhileyouaremaking
it. Pureescanbeblendedintothecustardafterit
hascooled,orfoldedintostillsoft,just-churned
icecreamforaswirledeffect.Meltedchocolate
canbeaddedtothestillwarm,just-cookedice
creambase,whilenutpastessuchaspeanutbut
terandpralinepastecanbeaddedtothemilkand
creamandcookedintothebasemixture.
Somefruitjuicesorfrozenconcentratessuch
aslemon,orange,orpassionfruithaveveryin
tenseflavor.Addupto8floz/240mLofthese
juicesorfrozenconcentratestothesameamount
ofthebaseasyouwouldpuree,usingjustenough
togivetheproperflavor.Itisnotnecessarytore
ducethevolumeofliquidinthebase;addingthis
amountofadditionalliquidtoai1A-qt/i.44-Lbatch
willnotnoticeablyaffecttheicecreamstextureor
volume.
ch a p te r 34 C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1095
T h e n a m e f o r t h is d e l ic a t e d e s s e r t c o m e s f r o m t h e F r e n c h ; t h e w o r d t r a n s l a t e s l it e r a l l y
as
"f r o t h y , f o a m y , or
l ig h t
." T o m a k e
m o u s s e
, an
a e r a t in g
in g r e d ie n t
suc h
as
w h ip p e d
C R E A M a n d / o r M E R I N G U E IS F O L D E D IN T O A BASE, S U C H A S A F R U I T P U R E E , V A N I L L A S A U C E , C R E A M ,
P U D D I N G , C U R D , S A B A Y O N , O R PA TE A B O M B E ( C O O K E D W H I P P E D EG G Y O L K S ) . T H E B A S E S H O U L D BE
L I G H T A N D S M O O T H S O T H E A E R A T I N G I N G R E D I E N T C A N BE I N C O R P O R A T E D E A S I L Y .
mousse
To make an egg-safe mousse, use pasteurized egg w h ites or a Swiss o r Italian meringue. S ta
bilizers such as g e la tin may be used in varying am ounts, depending on the desired result. If
a mousse is stab ilize d w ith gelatin, it w ill begin to se t im m ediately, so prepare all m olds and
serving containers be fore beginning preparation.
W hatever th e fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t used, it should be at room te m p e ra tu re and liquid
enough to fo ld to g e th e r w ith whipped cream a n d /o r egg w h ite s w ith o u t d e fla tin g those
foam s. To prepare chocolate, chop it in to sm all pieces and m e lt it over sim m ering w a te r or in
the m icrowave. Let it cool to room te m pe rature , at which p o in t it should s till be pourable.
Eggs, bo th yolks and w hites, are called fo r in some mousse recipes. C onsult the recipe
and prepare the eggs as d ire cte d . S eparate yolks and w h ite s care fu lly, keeping w h ite s fre e
o f all traces o f yolk. W hites generally w hip to a g re a te r volum e i f th e y are a t room te m p e ra
ture. Use a very clean bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk to b e a t egg w hites.
Cream should be ke p t very cold and w hipped ju s t to s o ft
peaks. Keep w hipped cream v e ry cold i f it is prepared in ad
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. C a re fu lly scale or measure all
ing re d ie nts.
2. H eat th e egg yolks w ith
some o f the sugar, w hisking
u n til th e m ixtu re is th ic k
and reaches the proper
te m p e ra tu re .
vance. For th e b e st volum e in the w hipped cream, ch ill the

bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk b e fo re w h ipp in g th e cream.
Flave a sim m e ring w a te r bath ready to cook egg yolks
and sugar to g e th e r. Use a rub be r spatula to fo ld the mousse
to g e th e r. Have m olds arranged to f ill w ith mousse.
It is im p o rta n t to fla v o r the base well. The base o f the
mousse provides all o f the flavo r. Once the ae ra to rs are
added, th e fla v o r o f th e base w ill becom e d ilu te d , so make
sure th e base is ve ry fla v o rfu l to ensure the am ount o f f la
vo r you desire is carried to th e fin is h e d mousse.
To m aintain its s tru c tu re du rin g and a fte r whipping,
keep th e cream cold. W hip the cream only to s o ft peaks.
3- W hip or w hisk the egg w hite s
A fte r w hipping, th e cream w ill be fo ld e d in to the rem ain
w ith the rem ainder o f the
ing in g re d ie n ts f o r the mousse. If it is w hipped beyond s o ft
sugar.
peaks, th is fo ld in g w ill overw hip the cream.
4 - G ently ligh ten th e yolk
Use a rubber spatula, or sim ilar to o l w ith a broad surface
m ixtu re w ith some o f the egg
fo r folding. This w ill help retain the volume in the aerators.
w hites.
Lightening the base w ith a p o rtion o f the ae rator before fo ld

ing quickly as w ell as ge ntly w ill also help to retain volume.
5 - C a re fu lly fo ld the rem aining

egg w h ite s in to th e yolk
m ixture.
To ensure the lig h te st mousse, it is also im perative th a t

the containers or pastries th a t w ill hold the mousse are ready
be fore you begin the preparation o f the mousse. As soon as
all the ingredients are fu lly combined, pipe, spread, or pour
the mousse in to the prepared containers.
1096
mousse
1. prepare the flavor ingredients

f o r th e mousse and cool them , if necessary. Some mousse
flavo rin gs are made fro m pureed fru it, sweetened as neces
sary and strained to remove any fib e rs or seeds. Chocolate,
one o f the m ost popular mousse fla vo rs, is prepared by
chopping the chocolate. B u tte r is added to the chocolate
and they are m elted to g e th e r over sim m ering water. Adding
b u tte r to the chocolate makes it easier to m elt. Take care to
avoid dropping any w a te r in to th e chocolate as it m elts.
The fla v o r base should be s o ft enough to s tir easily
w ith a wooden spoon, and ve ry sm ooth. Blend th e in g re
die n ts to g e th e r using a wooden spoon. L e t the m cool to
room te m p e ra tu re b e fo re use.
H eat the egg y olks and sugar to 1 4 5 F /6 3 C f o r 15
seconds, w h iskin g co n sta n tly. C om bine the egg yolks and
sugar in a saucepan over a h o t w a te r bath. W hip the m t o
g e th e r u n til th ic k and lig h t. The m ix tu re w ill fa ll in ribbons
fro m th e w hip when th e base has reached th e c o rre c t
consistency. A t th is tim e , fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts should
be fo ld e d in. It is im p o rta n t th a t th e fla v o rin g s be liquid
enough to blend easily. Fold in th e fla v o rin g s u n til th e re
are no stre a k s in th e m ixture .
W hip the egg w h ites w ith the rem aining sugar to s t if f
peaks in a com p le te ly clean and dry bowl. Beat the w hites
a t medium speed a t f ir s t to begin to separate the pro te in
strands. Add the sugar in sm all increm ents w ith the m ixer on
high speed u n til the peaks o f the beaten w h ites remain s t if f
and do n o t droop when the b e ater is pulled fro m the bowl.
The w h ites should s till appear shiny, not dry. Fold them into
the yolk m ixtu re g e n tly to keep the maximum volume. Some
chefs like to add the w h ites to the yolks in tw o or m ore addi
tio n s so th a t the f ir s t a d dition lightens the base. That way,
less volum e is lo s t fro m subsequent additions.
Use a liftin g and fo ld in g m o tio n to avoid d e fla tin g
th e mousse. The fin is h e d m ousse should be w e ll blended
b u t s till re ta in as much volum e as possible. A t th is point,
th e m ousse is ready f o r service o r may be re frig e ra te d ,
covered, f o r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e b e fo re service. The
m ousse may be scooped o r piped in to m olds o r con tain ers
f o r p re se n ta tio n .
2. evaluate the finished mousse.

A w ell-m a de m ousse should have an intense, id e n tifia b le
fla vo r, w ith added sm oo th ne ss and richness fro m the
cream. The co lo r should be even th ro u g h o u t each p o rtio n .
M ousses have a lig h t, fo a m y te x tu re due to th e a d d itio n
o f b o th beaten egg w h ite s and w h ipp ed cream. W hen th e
w h ite s and cream are beaten p ro p e rly, th e te x tu re is very
sm oo th and fine .
c h a p te r 34 C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1097
Vanilla Sauce
Pastry Cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
2 lb /9 0 7 g milk
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
B o z/8 5 g cornstarch
8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r
6 eggs
14 egg yolks
1. H
eatthemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodandseeds,
andhalfofthesugaruntilthemixturejustreaches
theboilingpoint.
2 . Com
binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand
temperthemixtureintothehotmilk.
3. Stirringconstantly,heatslow
lytoi8oF/82C.
4 . Rem
ovethecustardsauceimmediatelyfromthe
stoveandstrainitthroughafine-meshsievedirectly
intoacontainersetinanicewaterbath.
5. Coolto40F/4Candstoreintherefrigerator.
NOTES: This sauce can be cooked over a water bath fo r more
control of the heat source.
S ubstitute 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract fo r the vanilla
bean. Add it ju s t before straining the sauce.
All milk or light cream can be used in place o f heavy
cream.
3 o z/8 5 g butter
1. Com
binethemilkwithhalfof thesugarinasauce
panandbringittoaboil.
2 .Com
binetheremainingsugarwiththecornstarch,
addtheeggs,andmixuntilsmooth.
3. Tem
pertheeggmixtureintothehotmilkandbring
ittoafullboil, stirringconstantly.
4 . Rem
oveitfromtheheatandstirinthevanillaand
butter.Transferittoacleancontainer,placeapiece
ofplasticwrapdirectlyonthepastrycream,andlet
itcooloveranicewaterbath.
5. Thepastrycreamisreadytousenow
,oritmaybe
thoroughlycooledandstoredintherefrigeratorfor
lateruse.
Chocolate P astry Cream: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g Hard Ganache
(page 1128) to the finished but s till s lightly warm pastry
cream.
M akes 2 lb 2 oz/g64 g
Creme Brulee
Makes10servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g m ilk
Pinch salt
6V20z/184g sugar
1 vanilla bean
SV2 o z/1 5 6 g egg yolks, beaten

2 eggs
3 egg yolks
1 . Com
bine6floz/i8omLofthemilkwithhalfofthe
sugarinasaucepanandbringtoaboil, stirringgen
tlywithawoodenspoon.
2.. M
eanwhile,combinetheflourwiththeremaining
sugar. Stirringwithawirewhisk,addtheremaining
15floz/450mLofmilk.Addtheeggsandeggyolks,
stirringwiththewhiskuntilthemixtureiscom
pletelysmooth.
3.Tem
pertheeggmixturebyaddingaboutone-third
ofthehotmilk,stirringconstantlywiththewhisk.
Addtheeggmixturetotheremaininghotmilkin
thesaucepan.Continuecooking,vigorouslystirring
withthewhisk,untilthepastrycreamcomestoa
boilandthewhiskleavesatrailinit.
4 . Pourthepastrycreamontoalargeshallowcontainer
orbowl.Coveritwithplasticwrapplaceddirectly
againstthesurfaceofthecream,andcoolitoveran
icewaterbath.
5. Refrigeratethepastrycream
,covered.
FINISHING
4V2 o z /1 2 8 g confectioners' sugar
1. Com
binethecream,4oz/113gofthesugar,and
thesaltandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom
theheat. Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseeds
fromthepod,andaddboththepodandseedstothe
cream.Coverandsteepfor15minutes.
2 . Returnthepottotheheatandbringthecreamtoa
boil.
3. Com
binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand
temperthemixtureintothehotcream.Strainthe
custardthroughafine-meshsieveandladleitinto
ten6-floz/i8o-mLcremebruleeramekins,filling
themthree-quartersfull.
4 . Bakeinaw
aterbathat325F/i63Cuntiljustset, 20
to25minutes.
5. Rem
ovethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe
theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled.
6. Tofinishthecremebrulee,evenlycoateachcus
tardssurfacewithathinlayer(1/16in/1.50mm)of
sugar.Useapropanetorchtomeltandcaramelize
thesugar.Lightlydustthesurfacewithconfection
erssugarandserve.
c h a p te r 34 C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
custard, cream, and mousse recipes
Pastry Cream fo r
Souffles
1099
Creme Caramel
M akes 10 servings
CARAMEL
2 o z/5 7 g water
5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g sugar
CUSTARD
1 lb 7 o z/6 52 g milk
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
2 ts p /1 0 mL vanilla extract
3 egg yolks
1. Topreparethecaram
el, combinethewaterand
asmallamountofthesugarinapansetoverme
diumheat.Allowthesugartomelt.
2 .A
ddtheremainingsugarinsmallincrements,
allowingittomeltbeforeeachnewaddition.
Continuethisprocessuntilallthesugarhasbeen
added.Cookthecarameltothedesiredcolor.
3. Dividethecaram
elequallyamongten4-floz/120mLramekins, swirlingthecarameltocoatthebot
toms. Placetheramekinsinadeepbakingdishand
reserve.
UOO
BAKING AND PASTRY
4 . Tom
akethecustard,combinethemilkandhalfof
thesugarandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom
theheatandaddthevanilla.Returntotheheatand
bringtoaboil.
5. Blendtheeggsandeggyolks,com
binewiththerestof
thesugar,andtemperthemixtureintothehotmilk.
6. Strainthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveand
ladleitintothecaramel-coatedramekins,filling
themthree-quartersfull.
7. Baketheram
ekinsinawaterbathat325F/i63C
untilfullyset, about1hour.
8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe
theramekinsdry.Allowthecustardstocool
completely.
9. W
rapeachcustardindividuallyandrefrigeratethem
foratleast24hoursbeforeunmoldingandserving.
10 .Tounm
oldthecustards,runasmallsharpknife
betweenthecustardandtheramekin,invertontoa
servingplate,andtapitlightlytorelease.
Diplomat Cream
M akes 48 fl oz/1.44 L
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream, well chilled
Vi o z/7 g powdered gelatin
2 o z/5 7 g water
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099), warm
1 o z/2 8 g glucose syrup

V 4 tsp /1 g salt
15 egg yolks
1.Com
binethemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodand
seeds,halfofthesugar,thesyrup,andsaltina
saucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.
2 .Rem
ovethesaucepanfromtheheat, cover,and
steepfor5minutes.
3.M
eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain
ingsugar.
4 .Rem
ovethevanillabeanpodandreturnthemilk
mixturetoasimmer.
5.Tem
perone-thirdofthehotmixtureintotheegg
yolks,whiskingconstantly.
6. Addthetemperedeggmixturetotheremaining
hotliquidinthesaucepan,stirringconstantlyover
mediumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughto
coatthebackofaspoon,3to5minutes.
7.Straintheicecreambaseintoam
etalcontainerin
anicewaterbath.Stiroccasionally,untilitreaches
below40F/4C,about1hour.
8. Coverandrefrigerateforaminimumof12hours.
9 .Processthebaseinanicecreamm
achineaccord
ingtothemanufacturersdirections.
10.Packtheicecreaminstoragecontainersorm
olds
asdesired,andfreezeforseveralhoursorover
nightbeforeserving.
1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem
bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused
forthecream.
2 .W
hipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Coverandrefrigerate.
3. Bloomthegelatininthew
ater.Meltthegelatin.
4 . Tem
perthemeltedgelatinintothepastrycream.
Strainthroughafine-meshsieve.Coolthepastry
creamoveranicewaterbathto75F/24C.
5. Gentlyblendapproxim
atelyone-thirdofthe
whippedcreamintothepastrycreammixture.Fold
intheremainingwhippedcream,thoroughlyincor
poratingit.
6. Immediatelypipethediplomatcreamintothepre
paredpastriesorcontainers. Coverandrefrigerate
untilcompletelyset.
custard, cream, and mousse recipes
Vanilla Ice Cream
C hocolate Ice Cream: Before straining the ice cream base,

s tir 6 oz/170 g m elted b itte rsw ee t chocolate into the
mixture.
C o ffe e Ice Cream: S ub stitute 2 oz/5 7g coarsely ground
coffee fo r the vanilla bean.
Raspberry Ice Cream: Omit the milk. A fte r re frig era ting the
ice cream base, s tir in 16 f l o z/4 8 0 mL raspberry puree.
chapter 34 C U S T A R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1103
Chocolate Mousse
Raspberry Mousse
M akes 10 servings
M akes 88 fl oz/2.64 L
10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin
V /i o z/4 3 g butter
10 o z/2 8 4 g water
5 eggs, separated
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g raspberry puree
2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r
5 egg whites
8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream, whipped
9 o z/2 5 5 g sugar
Rum, as needed (optional)
bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers, ormoldstobeused
forthemousse.
2 . Com
binethechocolateandbutterandmeltovera
hotwaterbath.
3.Com
binetheeggyolkswithhalfofthewaterand
halfofthesugarandwhiskoverahotwaterbath
untilitholdsat145F/63Cfor15seconds. Remove
fromtheheatandwhiskuntilcool.
4 . Com
binetheeggwhiteswiththeremainingsugar
inamixerbowlandwhiskoverahotwaterbathto
145F/63C.Removefromtheheatandwhiptofull
volume.Continuewhippinguntilcool.
5. Usingalargerubberspatula,foldthechocolatem
ix
tureintotheeggyolks.
6. Foldtheeggwhitemixtureintotheeggyolk-choco
latemixture.
7. Foldinthew
hippedcreamandaddtherum,ifusing.
8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintomolds.
1104
BAKING AND PASTRY
bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused
forthemousse.
2 . Bloomthegelatininthew
ater.
3. W
hipthecreamtomediumpeaks.Coverand
refrigerate.
4 .W
armhalfofthefruitpureeinasaucepan.Remove
itfromtheheat.
5. M
eltthegelatin.Addthemeltedgelatintothewarm
pureeandstirtoincorporate. Blendintheremain
ingpuree. Cooltheraspberrymixtureto70F/2iC.
6. Meanwhile,combinetheeggwhitesandsugarina
mixerbowloverapotofsimmeringwaterandheat,
stirringconstantlywithawhisk,untilthemixture
reaches145F/63C.Transferthebowltothemixer
andwhipathighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilstiff
peaksform.Continuebeatinguntilthemeringue
hascompletelycooled.
7. Gentlyblendapproxim
atelyone-thirdofthe
meringueintotheraspberrymixturetolightenit.
Foldintheremainingmeringue,thoroughlyincor
poratingit. Foldinthewhippedcream.
8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintothepas
tries, containers,ormolds.
Chocolate Souffle
M akes 10 servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar, plus as needed
for ramekin preparation
Bread and B utter

Pudding
M akes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter
3 o z/8 5 g raisins
10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
4 f I o z/1 2 0 m L ru m
2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g Pastry Cream for

Souffles (page 1099), cooled
9 o z/2 5 5 g Brioche Loaf (page 1040)

or Challah (page 1040)
3 egg yolks
12 egg whites
2 lb /9 0 7 g milk
1. Coattheinsideoften4-floz/120-m
Lovenproof
ramekinswithafilmofsoftbutter,makingsureto
coattherimsaswellastheinsides,anddustwith
sugar.
2 .Topreparethesoufflebase,m
eltthebutterand
chocolatetogetherinabowloverapanofbarely
simmeringwater,stirringgentlytoblend.Blendthe
chocolatemixtureintothepastrycream.Blendin
theeggyolks.
3. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites
tosoftpeaksonmediumspeedusingthewirewhip.
Graduallysprinkleinthesugarwhilecontinuingto
whip,thenwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks.
4 . Gentlyblendapproxim
atelyone-thirdoftheme
ringueintothechocolatebase.Foldintheremaining
meringue,thoroughlyincorporatingit.
5. Portionthesoufflem
ixtureintotheprepared
ramekins.
6. Bakeat350F/i77Cuntilfullyrisen,about20min
utes.Serveimmediately.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
6 eggs, beaten
4 egg yolks, beaten
V2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL vanilla extract
V2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
1. Placetheraisinsinabow
landaddtherum.Set
asidetoplumpfor20minutes,thendrain.
2 . CutthebreadintoVi-in/i-cmcubes. Placeona
sheetpananddrizzlewiththebutter.Toastina
350F/i77Coven,stirringonceortwice,untilgold
enbrown.
3. Com
binethemilkand3oz/85gfthesugarina
saucepanandbringtoaboil.
4.M
eanwhile,blendtheeggs,eggyolks,vanilla,and
theremaining3oz/85gsugartomaketheliaison.
Temperbygraduallyaddingaboutone-thirdofthe
hotmilk,whiskingconstantly.Addtheremaining
hotmilkandstrainthecustardintoalargebowl.
5. A
ddthebread,cinnamon,salt,anddrainedraisinsto
thecustard.Soakoveranicewaterbathforatleast
hourtoallowthebreadtoabsorbthecustard.
6. Lightlybrushten6-floz/i8o-mLramekinswithsoft
enedbutter.
7. Ladlethem
ixtureintothepreparedramekins, fill
ingthemthree-quartersfull. Bakeinawaterbathat
350F/i77Cuntiljustset,45to50minutes.
8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe
theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled.
1
1106
BAKING AND PASTRY
fillings, frosting
and dessert
sauces
There are many options fo r assembling and finishing a cake or fo r
creating the finishing touches to a plated dessert. In adding thes
elements, the chef should always be m indful of marrying all the
flavors and textures, so that they blend with, complement, a
enhance each other. In addition to th e ir role as a dessert a^
they are also used as a basic component o f other i t e m s ^ ^ ^ H H
fro s tin g s ^ jjd s ^ u c e s can be prepared in a variety
insistencies to
p **-
cojag^m
p ig m eent
n t a range o f dessert items. They ccan
a nbb4^ jo t e d on the plate,
fzzled, s p o o n e ^ j^ p re a d over the main it ^ |^ p j< e Tor pastry.
B u tt e r c r e a m s are m a d e by b le n d in g s o ft b utter into an e gg-a n d - s u g ar base. B u t t e r c r e a m s

H E L P TO
MAKE
ELEGANT
CAKES AND
TORTES.
The
MANNER
IN W H I C H
THE
EGGS A N D
S U G A R ARE
C O M B I N E D , AS W E L L AS W H E T H E R W H O L E EGGS , EGG Y O L K S , OR EGG W H I T E S A R E U S E D , P R O D U C E S A

VA RI ET Y OF BUTTERCREAMS.
buttercream
For all typ e s o f b u tte rc re a m it is im p o rta n t th a t the b u tte r be s o ft and a t room te m p e ra
tu re ; hard b u tte r w ill n o t in co rp o ra te to fo rm a cream y sm oo th fro s tin g . To make Swiss
b u tte rcre a m , com bine th e sugar and egg w h ite s and g e n tly w h isk over a sim m e ring hot
w a te r bath u n til th e sugar is dissolved, the m ixtu re is warm , and th e egg w h ite s are fro th y .
N ext w hip th e m ixtu re to fo rm a s t if f peak m eringue, add the b u tte r, and w hip to fo rm the
b u tte rcre a m . Swiss b u tte rc re a m is stab le and good fo r icing cakes and pipin g borders and
decor, b u t i f you w a n t the m o st stab le bu tte rcre a m , use Italian bu tte rcre a m .
To make Ita lia n b u tte rcre a m , have th e s o ft, ro o m -te m p e ra tu re b u tte r, egg w hites, and
sugar ready. Begin by cooking the sugar and w a te r to make a syrup. N ext w hip the egg
w h ite s to s o ft peaks and then add the h o t sugar syrup. A fte r the m ixtu re reaches fu ll v o l
ume, continue to w hip to cool down the m eringue b e fo re adding th e bu tte r.
Flavorings fo r b u tte rcre a m m ust also be a t room te m p e r
a tu re and ready to add as soon as the b u tte rc re a m is made.
m ethod
at-a-glance
1. Cook the sugar to s o ft ball
stage.
2. Whip the egg whites, slowly

adding the sugar syrup
while the eggs whip.
3. Gradually add softened

b utter to the base and beat
until smooth.
1108
The fo llo w in g fla vo rin g s are f o r 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f prepared b u t

tercrea m :
3 o z /8 5 g b itte rsw e et chocolate, m elted and cooled
2 o z /5 7 g w hite or milk chocolate, m elted and cooled
2 o z /5 7 g praline paste, 1 tb s p /1 5 mL brandy, and
buttercream
1. to prepare the meringue,
com
bine sugar and w a te r in a saucepan and b rin g to a boil.

C ontinue to b o il th e sugar syrup w ith o u t s tirrin g u n til
th e te m p e ra tu re reaches 2 4 0 F /1 1 6 C . Use a w e t p a s try
brush to w ipe down th e sides o f th e pan to dissolve any
sugar c ry s ta ls th a t splash on to th e sides. ( If th e cry s ta ls
rem ain, th e y w ill a c t as "seeds" and cause th e syrup to
crysta llize .) Use a candy th e rm o m e te r to check th e te m
p e ra tu re o f th e syrup. This te m p e ra tu re is also known as
the s o ft ba ll stage. W hen th e syrup reaches th e c o rre c t
te m p e ra tu re , add it im m e d ia te ly to th e egg w h ites.
method in detail
2. as the sugar syrup cooks, whip
th e egg w h ite s on m edium speed. The ideal is to have the
egg w h ite s reach s o ft peaks a t th e same tim e th a t the
syrup reaches 2 4 0 F /1 1 6 C . W ith th e m ixe r s till running,
g ra d u a lly pour th e h o t sugar syrup in a th in stre a m in to
th e w h ite s. To p re ve n t s p la tte rin g , add th e syrup so th a t it
pours down th e side o f th e bow l ra th e r tha n on to th e w ire
w hip. Continue to be at th e m ix tu re u n til a firm m eringue
fo rm s and th e m ix tu re cools to room te m p e ra tu re . If the
m eringue is to o hot, it w ill m e lt th e b u tte r as it is added.
Check th e te m p e ra tu re by fe e lin g th e side o f th e bowl. It
should be cool to th e touch.
chapt er 35
FILLINGS, FROSTI NGS, AND DE S S E RT S AUCE S
1109
3. gradually add soft butter
to the
m eringue base and be at th e m ix tu re u n til a sm ooth, lig h t

b u tte rc re a m fo rm s . As th e b u tte r is f ir s t added, the m e
ringue w ill fa ll and th e m ix tu re may appear broken. Con
tin u e to add th e b u tte r in sm all am ounts w ith th e m ixer
running and th e b u tte rc re a m w ill becom e sm oo th and
light.
A t th is p o in t, it is ready to apply to a prepared cake,
o r it may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use. B u tte rc re a m takes
on o th e r fla v o rs and odors re a d ily and m ust, th e re fo re ,
be tig h tly covered b e fo re sto rin g . It may be re frig e ra te d
fo r up to 7 days o r fro z e n f o r up to 3 m onths. A llo w chilled
b u tte rc re a m to re tu rn to room te m p e ra tu re and beat it
using th e paddle u n til ve ry sm oo th and lig h t b e fo re using
it to f ill o r f r o s t a cake.
B u tte rc re a m s should be p e rfe c tly sm oo th and s o ft.
They should be sw e et b u t n o t o ve rly sw eet. There should
be no d e te c ta b le grains or pieces o f sugar o r any lumps o f
b u tte r.
Fillings and Icings fo r Layered Cakes

AMOUNT FOR 8-IN/20-CM CAKE
AMOUNTFOR 10-IN/25-CM CAKE
BUTTERCREAM
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g
LEMON CURD
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g
GANACHE (FOR GLAZING)
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g
BUTTERCREAM
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 j
fillin g
ic in g
BAKING AND PASTRY
a k e l a y e r s s h o u l d be a l l o w e d to c o o l c o m p l e t e l y b e f o r e c u t t in g t h e m
into l a y e r s
.C
a k es
B E C A U S E T H E Y HA V E A M OR E U N I F O R M F L A V O R A ND T E X T U R E . F l L L I N G S S P R E A D ONTO L A Y E R S S H O U L D
G E N E R A L L Y BE L E S S T H A N V 2 I n / 1 C M THI CK.
cake layering and

icing basics
B efo re slicin g a cake in to layers, trim any uneven areas fro m th e sides and to p . For the
be st resu lts, use a cake -d e co ra tin g tu rn ta b le and a k n ife w ith a long, thin , se rra te d blade.
S et th e cake on a cake round and then on th e tu rn ta b le . F irst, d ivid e the cake by eye in to
th e desired num ber o f layers. In se rt th e k n ife in to th e side o f th e cake a t th e a p p ro p ria te
level and, holding th e kn ife stea dy and level and slo w in g ro ta tin g th e tu rn ta b le , move the
blade o f th e k n ife in to th e cake to cu t th e layer. Remove th e layer and s e t it aside; re p e a t as
cake layering and icing basics
TH AT A R E M A D E O F M O R E T H I N N E R L A Y E R S A R E P R E F E R A B L E TO T H O S E WI TH F E W E R , T H I C K E R L A Y E R S ,
necessary. B e fo re assem bling th e cake, brush any loose crum bs fro m th e layers.
Cake layers may be m oistened w ith a v a rie ty o f syrups, fro m plain sim ple syrup to one
in fu sed w ith spices or a liqueur. The syrup adds m o istu re to d rie r layers such as sponge
cakes, and adds fla v o r as well. Brush th e syrup evenly over th e cu t surface o f each layer
b e fo re it is assem bled. The layers should be m oiste ne d b u t n o t sodden.
m ethod
at-a-glance
Set the cake in the center o f a
turntable.
2. Apply generous icing to the

sides, smoothing to create an
even finish.
3. Continue to ice, working from

the edges of the cake toward
the center.
To finish, smooth the lip o f icing
over and across the top o f the
cake to create a smooth, even
surface.
A
chapter 35 F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
llll
1. use a turntable fo r icing a cake. A tu rn

ta b le allow s th e cake to be ro ta te d easily, which aids in
th e a p p lica tio n o f a sm ooth, even layer o f icing. Use e ith e r
a s tra ig h t o r o ffs e t m e ta l spa tula to ice th e cake. The ap
p ro p ria te le ng th o f th e spatula depends on th e size o f the
cake and personal p re fe ren ce. A fte r fillin g th e cake, place
a generous am o un t o f b u tte rc re a m on to p . Hold a spatula
stea dy and a t a s lig h t angle w h ile spinning th e tu rn ta b le
to apply a sm o o th even layer o f b u tte rc re a m on to p o f the
cake. A llo w th e excess b u tte rc re a m to fa ll down th e sides
o f th e cake.
method in detail
2. to ice the sides
o f th e cake, apply a gen
erous am ount o f icing to th e sides to ease s m o o th in g and

ensure a clean fin is h . To sm oo th th e sides o f th e cake a f
te r ap p lyin g th e icing, hold a spa tula v e rtic a lly against the
cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle, w ith th e edge o f the spatula
to u ch in g th e icing, and ro ta te the cake ag ainst th e spa
tula ; th e tip o f th e spa tula should ju s t to u ch th e surface o f
the tu rn ta b le . This w ill n o t only sm oo th th e icing, b u t w ill
also cause som e o f th e excess icing fro m th e sides to rise
above the to p o f th e cake, m aking a lip or ridge.
1112
BAKING AND PASTRY
o f th e cake
cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle and sm oo th th e lip o f icing over

and across th e to p to cre a te a p e rfe c tly sm oo th to p and a
sharp angled edge.
cake layering and icing basics
3. work from the edges
to w a rd the center. Hold th e spatula ag ainst th e to p o f the
4. mark the cake into portions,

if desired, using a s tra ig h t-e d g e d k n ife o r long s tra ig h t
m etal spatula. A lte rn a tiv e ly , garnish may be ap plied by
tre a tin g th e cake to p as a w hole (th is is ty p ic a lly done
to sm a lle r cakes o r to spe cia l occasion cakes). A v a rie ty
o f sim p le garnishes can also be ap plied (such as a shell
b o rd e r o r ro s e tte s ), w ith o r w ith o u t a d d itio n a l garnishes,
such as cho colate c u to u ts, fre s h berries, jam , and th e like.
1113
Ganache, a b le n d o f cream and ch o c o la te , has m any uses.
It
m a y be u s e d a s a s a u c e o r t o
G L A Z E A C A K E , O R IT M A Y B E W H I P P E D A N D U S E D A S A F I L L I N G A N d /
R I C I NG. G A N A C H E C A N A L S O
B E M A D E W I T H A S T I F F E R C O N S I S T E N C Y , C H I L L E D , A N D R O L L E D I NT O T R U F F L E S . L l G H T G A N A C H E IS
SOMETIM ES USED AS A CHOCOLATE SAUCE.
ganache
There are a num ber o f recipes fo r th is a ll-tim e fa v o rite d e sse rt sauce, and by varying
the p ro p o rtio n s in th e recipe so th a t th e re is m ore chocolate in re la tio n to the am ount o f
cream, a harder ganache can be made. This hard ganache can be paddled and used fo r icing
or fillin g . A dding an even g re a te r am ount o f chocolate w ill produce th e heavy ganache used
to prepare cho colate tru ffle s .
C hocolate fo r ganache should be cut in to ve ry sm all pieces, which fa c ilita te s even
m elting. One o f th e m o st e ffic ie n t ways to chop cho colate is to use a se rra te d knife ; the
se rra tio n causes th e cho colate to break in to sm all shards as it is cut. Use the b e s t-q u a lity
cho colate available to be sure o f a sm ooth, rich ly fla v o re d sauce. Place the chopped choco
la te in to a h e a tp ro o f bowl. Place th e cream and b u tte r ( if using) in a saucepan and bring to
a boil.
Infusion is an e ffe c tiv e m ethod o f fla v o rin g ganache. Bring the cream to a boil, add
th e fla vo rin g , and rem ove the pan fro m the heat. Cover and allow to stand u n til the fla v o r
has been infused in to th e cream (5 to 10 m inutes). S train, if
necessary. A fte r strain in g, w a te r or m ilk should be added
as necessary to bring the liquid to its o rigin al w e ig h t so the
m ethod
at-a-glance
Combine the hot cream and
chocolate.
2. Let the m ixture stand

undisturbed fo r several
minutes.
3. S tir the ganache until the

cream is incorporated and
the m ixture is smooth, thick,
and shiny.
1114
BAKING AND PASTRY
fin is h e d ganache w ill be th e p ro pe r consistency. Ideal in

g re d ie n ts fo r in fu sio ns include teas, herbs, and spices.
D epending on the desired resu lt, liqueurs or s p irits can
be added fo r fla vo rin g . Pastes and com pounds can also be
added. Because these are s tro n g ly fla vo re d , the y are usu
ally added to ta s te to th e fin is h e d ganache.
1. combine the cream
w ith th e choco
late. H eat th e cream and pour it over th e chopped choco

late. A llo w th e m ix tu re to stand, un distu rbed , f o r a fe w
m inutes.
method in detail
2. stir the ganache u n til th e cream is fu lly
in c o rp o ra te d and th e m ix tu re is co m p le te ly sm ooth. A t
th is p o in t, add any de sire d fla v o rin g (fla v o re d liqueurs,
e x tra c ts , o r purees). The ganache is ready to be used now
o r may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use.
Ganache should be in te n s e ly fla v o re d , w ith th e choco
la te fla v o r enriched and sm oo th ed by th e cream. The te x
tu re should be c o m p le te ly sm oo th and dense. The m ore
cho colate in th e ganache, th e th ic k e r th e te x tu re w ill be.
Ganache is very g lossy when w arm ed and used as a glaze.
When cooled and w hipped, it becom es m ore opaque w ith
a m a tte -lik e fin is h , lig h te n in g s om ew hat in color. Ingre
d ie n ts added to fla v o r o r garnish th e ganache should be
a p p ro p ria te , w ith o u t m asking o r ove rw h elm ing th e choco
late's flavo r.
chapter 35 FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
lll5
MAKINGTRUFFLES
Scoophardganacheandrollintosmall
ballsinthepalmofyourhand. Once
thetruffleshaveset,theyarereadytobe
finishedbyrollinginnuts,cocoapowder,
confectionerssugar,oramyriadofother
ingredients.Togivethetrufflesaglossy
sheenandalongershelflife,coatthemin
temperedchocolate.
Picturedhereisastationforcoating
trufflesintemperedchocolate. Theun
finishedtrufflesareonthechef'sleft,the
bowloftemperedchocolateisinthecen
ter,andthecoatedtrufflesareontheright.
Tocoattrufflesintemperedchocolate,
smearasmallamountofthechocolate
inthepalmofyourhand,rollthetruffle
1116
BAKING AND PASTRY
tocoatinathinevenlayer,andplacethe
coatedtrufflesonthefarthestsideofa
parchment-linedsheetpantopreventhav
ingtopassoverthemandpossiblydrip
chocolateontothem.Allowthechocolate
tocompletelyhardenandthenrepeatthe
processtogiveeachtruffletwocoatingsof
chocolate.
Afterthechocolatesets,thetruffles
shouldbeshinyandwithoutanycracks.
Storeinacool,dryenvironment,butnot
intherefrigerator.Handlingthemoral
lowingthemtotoucheachotherwillmar
theirglossyfinishwithfingerprintsor
scratches. Ifyoumusthandlethem,wear
glovesandworkcarefully
W
henusingamicrowavetomelt
Chocolateispurchasedintemper,butin chocolate,usemediumpowerratherthan
ordertoworkwithit,itmustbemelted highandheatthechocolatefor30-second
andthentemperedagain,sothatasitcools intervals,removingandstirringitaftereach
andsetsitwillreturntothesamestateas intervaltoensureevenheatingandmelting.
whenpurchased.
Toproperlytemperchocolate, itmust T E M P E R IN G C H O C O L A T E
alsobemeltedproperlytoensurethatit Twoofthemostcommonandeasilymas
isnotoverheated,whichwouldruinthe teredwaystotemperchocolatearethe
qualityofthechocolate. Beforemelting, seedmethodandtheblockmethod.
chocolateshouldbefinelychopped.The Fortheseedmethod,usechoppedtem
smallerthepieces,themoresurfacearea peredchocolateapproximately25per
isexposedandthequickerthechocolate centoftheweightofthemeltedchocolate
melts,helpingtopreventoverheating. A tobetemperedshouldbeaddedtothe
hotwaterbathoramicrowaveisbestfor warm(noF/43C)meltedchocolateand
gentlystirredtomeltandincorporateit.
meltingchocolate.
W
henusingahotwaterbath,itisim Thewholemassisthenbroughttotheap
portanttorememberthatmoisture(steam, propriateworkingtemperature.
Fortheblockmethod,addasingle
water,orcondensation)mustnevercome
b
lo
c
koftemperedchocolatetowarm
incontactwiththechocolate. Moisture
m
e
lte
dchocolateandstirgentlyuntil
causeschocolatetoseize,ortobecome
thedesiredtemperatureisreached.After
thickandgrainy,renderingitunfitfor
temperingandmostotheruses.Forthis thechocolateisbroughtintotemper,the
reason,whenusingadoubleboilerbesure seed,orblockofchocolate, isremoved.
thatthebowlortopofthedoubleboileris Theblockcanbeusedagain.Thismethod
completelydryandfitssnuglyoverthepan issimpleandeffective,butslightlymore
ofwater,formingatightseal. Thewater timeconsumingthanothermethodsof
shouldbesteaminghotbutnotsimmering. tempering.
W
henthechocolateisintemper,it
Gentlystirthechocolateoccasionallyasit
s
h
o
u
ld
evenlycoatthebackofasmallmet
meltsforevenmelting.Removethechoco
a
l
s
p
o
o
n
andthensetquicklywithaclear
latefromtheheatpromptlyonceitisfully
s
h
in
e
a
n
d
nostreaks.
melted.
M E L T IN G C H O C O L A T E
working with chocolate
MELTING AND TEMPERING CHOCOLATE
1117
GLAZING CAKES, COOKIES, ORPASTRIES
Setacakethatistobeglazedonacard
boardcakeroundandapplyasealcoatof
buttercreamorjam,ifnecessary,andchill
untilsetpriortoglazing.Asealcoatisvital
ifthecakehasbeentrimmedorcutand
layered,asitpreventscrumbsfrombeing
incorporatedintotheglaze.
Placethecakeonawirerackovera
cleansheetpan.Havetheglazetepidso
thatitdoesnotmeltthesealcoat(ifone
wasapplied).Theglazeshouldnotbeso
thinthatitrunsoffthecakecompletely.
Pourorladletheglazeoverthecake.Use
anoffsetspatulatoquicklyspreadthe
glazeandcompletelyenrobethesidesof
thecake.Thisstepmustbedonequickly,
beforetheglazebeginstosetup,toavoid
leavingspatulamarksonthesurface.
Gentlytapthewirerackonthesheetpan
tofacilitatetheflowofanyexcessglazeoff
thecake.
1118
on d an t
pas tr ies
is t h e
. M
ost
characteristic
tr ad itio n al
kitchens
g lo s s y
g la z e
and
finish
for
petits
b a k es h o ps
it m u s t
use
f o u r s
ec la ir s
pu r c h a s e d
be w a r m e d
until
an d
fo n d a n t
d o u g h n u t s
. F
it is l i q u i d
or
a m o n g
fo n d an t
en o u g h
to
to
flow
other
have
its
readily
(1 0 5 F /4 1 C ).
working with
fondant
working with tondant
Sm all ite m s are ty p ic a lly dipped in to th e fo n d a n t using a d ip p in g fo rk or s im ila r to o l. Larger

ite m s are se t on racks on sheet pans and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, or drizzled
over them .
Fondant can be fla v o re d and colored as necessary using purees, con cen tra te , choco
late, o r fo o d co lo rin g gels, liquids, o r pastes.
m ethod
at-a-glance
1. Warm and thin the fondant
until it reaches proper working
tem perature.
2. Flavor and/or color the fondant

as desired, adjusting the
te xtu re as needed.
3. Keep fondant warm during

use and work quickly fo r best
results.
1119
1. fondant is used
as th e tra d itio n a l glaze
fo r m any p a s try ite m s such as p e tits fo u rs, eclairs, and

doughnuts. For fo n d a n t to gain its glossy fin ish , it m ust
be p ro p e rly w arm ed u n til it is liquid enough to flo w rea d
ily. P ro p e rly th in n e d fo n d a n t should be shiny and s lig h tly
tra n sp a re n t. This pro ced ure is known as tem pe rin g.
M o s t kitch e n s and bakeshops use purchased fon dan t.
To pre pa re fo n d a n t so th a t it may be used f o r glazing,
place it in a s ta in le s s -s te e l bow l and m e lt it over a h o t w a
te r bath. Do n o t le t th e fo n d a n t exceed 10 5F /41C . Thin
th e fo n d a n t to th e desired co n siste n cy w ith w arm w ater,
corn syrup, o r a liqueur.
method in detail
2. once melted,
plain fo n d a n t can be f la
vored a n d /o r colore d as de sire d w ith co lo rin g pastes,

purees, con ce n tra te s, o r chocolate. If using chocolate, fo r
exam ple, s tir th e m e lte d cho colate in to th e fo n d a n t to
fla v o r it. The fo n d a n t may need to be thin ne d again a fte r
th e cho colate has been added.
1120
BAKING AND PASTRY
as you
w o rk and be sure to have a co m p le te glazing setu p ready.

Sm all ite m s such as eclairs are ty p ic a lly dipp ed in to fo n
dant. Larger ite m s are se t on w ire racks over she et pans
and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, o r drizzled
over the item .
Dip the to p o f an e cla ir in to the bow l o f fo n d a n t and
hold it v e rtic a l to a llo w th e excess fo n d a n t to drip o ff.
Use your fin g e r to g e n tly rem ove any excess fo n d a n t th a t
s till rem ains a t th e end o f th e e cla ir b e fo re placing it on a
she et pan.
orking with tondant
3. keep the fondant warm
1121
ruit
fillings
are
used
for
m a n y
pies
and
tarts
. Th
e y
are
u s u a l ly
prepared
w ith
pitted
O R S L I C E D A N D P E E L E D F R E S H F R U I T . T H E F R U I T IS T Y P I C A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H S U G A R A N D A S T A R C H
(f
lo u r
, A R R O W R O O T , C O R N S T A R C H , O R T A P I O C A ) TO P R O D U C E A F L A V O R F U L F I L L I N G W I T H E N O U G H
B O D Y T O S L I C E I NTO N E A T P O R T I O N S .
making a pie
or tart
Cooked cream or pudding fillin g s should be prepared only a fte r th e pie or ta r t shell has
been com p le te ly prepared, baked, and cooled, so th a t when th e fillin g is ready, it may be
im m e d ia te ly poured in to the shell. Hold all fillin g s a t the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re fo r th e best
fla v o r and con sisten cy in the fin ish e d pie or ta rt.
A w ide v a rie ty o f to p p in g s are com m only used fo r pies and ta rts , including crum bs or
streuse l, p a s try crust, m eringue, or glazes such as m elte d chocolate, ganache, o r a p rico t
jam . Egg wash is o fte n ap plied to d o u b le -cru st or la ttic e -c ru s t pies o r ta r ts and should
be blended in advance and applied in a thin, even layer w ith a p a s try brush. Pies and ta rts
should be baked on sheet pans to catch any drips. Cool pies on w ire racks.
L I N I N G A PIE OR TA RT PAN
Alw ays w o rk w ith th o ro u g h ly chilled dough. C hilling allow s th e dough to relax, th e fa t to
firm up, and the starches pre se n t in the flo u r to com p le te ly absorb th e liquid.
To ro ll o u t dough, tu rn it onto a flo u re d w o rk surface. L ig h tly d u st th e surface o f the
dough w ith a d d itio n a l flo u r. Using even strokes, ro ll th e dough in to the desired thickn ess
and shape. Turn it occasionally to produce an even shape and to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the
w o rk surface. W ork fro m th e ce n te r to w a rd th e edges, ro llin g in d iffe re n t d irectio ns.
m ethod at-a-glance
i. Carefully line the pie or ta rt
pan w ith prepared dough,
keeping the dough chilled
before and a fte r lining.
2.
1122
If necessary, parbake the

crust.
3. Fill the pie with desired

fillin g and finish as
necessary.
4. Bake the finished item as

necessary.
making a pie or tart
1. line the pie or tart pan w ith p a s try

dough. C a re fu lly tra n s fe r th e ro lle d dough in to th e pan.
P o sitio n th e dough so th a t it c o m p le te ly covers th e e n tire
pan. S e ttle th e dough in to th e pan, pre ssin g th e dough
g e n tly ag ainst th e pan. Use a ball o f scrap dough to g e n tly
press th e pie dough in to th e pie pan and dock th e b o tto m
o f th e crust, if necessary. Trim th e excess dough fro m the
rim , leaving enough to seal a to p c ru s t in place, if m aking a
d o u b le -c ru s t pie, o r to pre pa re a flu te d or raised edge fo r
a sin g le -c ru s t pie or ta rt.
method in detail
2. fill and finish the pie
as desired.
Some pies and ta r ts are fille d , then baked. O th ers call

f o r th e c ru s t to be baked blind sep ara te ly, e ith e r p a rtia lly
o r fu lly baked (see Blind Baking Pie and T art Shells,
page 1124).
To add a f r u it fillin g to an unbaked pie shell, com
bine th e fillin g in g re d ie n ts and m ound th e m in th e shell.
C u s ta rd -ty p e fillin g s should be c a re fu lly poured in to the
shell to ju s t below th e rim o f th e pan.
Some pies, e sp ecially f r u it pies, have a to p as w ell as
a b o tto m crust. Roll o u t th e to p cru s t in th e same m anner
as the b o tto m cru st. C a re fu lly lay th e to p c ru s t over the
pie and cu t ve n ts in it to allow steam to escape. Press the
dough in place around th e rim to seal the to p and b o tto m
crusts. Trim away excess overhang and pinch o r crim p the
edges.
Pies and, less fre q u e n tly , ta rts may be fin is h e d w ith a
la ttic e crust, made by c u ttin g s trip s o f dough and laying
th e m on to p o f th e f illin g t o make a grid. Seal and crim p
th e edges as fo r a d o u b le -c ru s t pie.
Crumb to p p in g s should be a p plied in an even layer
over th e surface o f th e fillin g . A n o th e r fre q u e n t pie t o p
ping is m eringue, w hich is piped o n to th e pie in a d e cora
tiv e p a tte rn or s im p ly m ounded and peaked. The m eringue
is then q u ickly brow ned in a ve ry h o t oven or w ith a to rch .
chapter 35 F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
1123
3. bake the pie. For a d o u b le -c ru s t pie, brush

th e to p c ru s t ve ry lig h tly w ith egg wash and bake the pie
on a she et pan in a h o t oven (4 2 5 F /2 1 8 C ) u n til done. In
general, pies and ta rts are baked u n til the cru st is a rich
golden brown. The dough should appear dry. If th e dough
has been ro lle d o u t unevenly, th e th ic k e r p o rtio n s may
appear m o ist, in d ic a tin g th a t the dough is n o t fu lly baked.
F ru it fillin g s should be bubbling. C ustard fillin g s should be
ju s t se t b u t n o t cooked to th e p o in t a t which th e surface
cracks or shrinks away fro m th e crust.
BLIND BAKING PIE AND TART SHELLS
Toblindbakemeanstopartiallyorfully
bakeanunfilledpieortartshell.Pastry
shellsarepartiallyprebakedwhenthetime
requiredtobakethefillingwillnotbelong
enoughtofullybakethecrust. Shellsare
completelyprebakedwhentheyaretobe
filledwithaprecookedfillingoronethat
doesnotrequirecookingorbaking.
Toblindbakeapieortartshell,line
thedoughwithparchmentpaperandfill
itwithpieweights,driedbeans,orrice.
Theweightswillpreventthebottomofthe
crustfrombubblingupandthesidesfrom
collapsingorslidingdownthepansides
duringbaking.
Placethepaninthepreheatedoven.
Theparchmentandweightsneedonlystay
inthepanuntilthecrusthasbakedlong
enoughtoset.Oncethecrusthassetand
1124
willmaintainitsform(generally10to12
minutesfora9-in/23-cmcrust),remove
theparchmentandweightstoallowthe
crusttobrownevenly.Returnthepanto
theovenandbakethecrustuntilitreaches
thedesiredcolor. Ifthecrustistobebaked
againwithafilling,bakeitjustuntillight
golden.Forafullybakedcrust,bakeitun
tilitreachesadeepgoldenbrown,about
20totalminutes.
Brushfullyprebakedpastryshellswith
alightcoatingofsoftbutterormelted
chocolatebeforefilling.Thiswillprevent
moistureinthefillingfromseepinginto
thecrustandmakingitsoggyorcausing
ittoloseitscrisptexture.Applyathin
coatingtotheshellusingapastrybrush.
Refrigeratetheshellsothebutterorchoc
olatehardensfully,thenfilltheshell.
Apple Pie
Makesonedouble-crustpie(9in/23cm)
Makes3lb4ozh.47kg
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
4 o z /1 1 3 g w a te r
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Golden Delicious

apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
8 egg whites
5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cut into medium chunks, soft
V2
o z/1 4 g tapioca starch
3A o z/21 g cornstarch
1. Com
bine12oz/340gofthesugarwiththewaterin
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
aheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilover
tsp /1 g ground nutmeg
medium-highheat,stirringtodissolvethesugar.
tsp /1 g ground cinnamon
Onceitreachesaboil,continuecookingwithout
stirringtothesoftballstage(238F/ii4C).
2 .M
eanwhile,placetheeggwhitesinanelectricmixer
fittedwiththewirewhip.
1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec
3.W
henthesugarsyruphasreachedapproximately
tions. Dividethedoughintwoequalpieces. Roll
230F/ii0C,whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeed
halfofthedoughVsin/3mmthickandlinethepie
untilfrothy.Graduallyaddtheremaining4oz/113g
pan.Reservetheotherhalf,wrappedtightlyand
sugarandwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks.
refrigerated.
4 .W
henthesugarsyrupreaches238F/ii4C,additto 2 .Tosstheappleswiththesugar,tapioca,cornstarch,
themeringueinaslowsteadystreamdowntheside
salt,nutmeg,cinnamon,lemonjuice,andbutter. Fill
ofthebowlwhilewhippingonmediumspeed.W
hip
th
epieshellwiththeapplemixture.
onhighspeeduntilthemeringuehascooledtoroom
3. Rollouttherem
ainingdoughVsin/3mmthickand
temperature.
p
la
c
e
it
o
v
e
r
th
e
filling.
5. A
ddthebutterinsmallbatches, mixinguntilfully
incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown 4 . Crimptheedgestosealandcutseveralventsinthe
topofthepie.
thesidesofthebowlasnecessary.Blendintheva
nilla.Thebuttercreamisnowreadyforuseoritmay 5. Bakeonasheetpanina375^/19iCovenuntilthe
betightlycoveredandrefrigerated.
fillingisbubbling,about45minutesto1hour.
6. Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
NOTE: See alternative flavoring options on page 1108.
V2
V2
chapter 35 FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Italian Buttercream
1125
Cherry Pie
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
11 lb 4 o z/5.10 kg frozen pitted cherries
3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
8 lb 12 o z/3.97 kg cherryjuice
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pecans
6 lb 4 oz/2.83 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
3/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
3'/2 o z/9 9 g bread flour
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g s u g a r
5 lb /2.27 kg corn syrup
1 o z /2 8 g s a lt
14 eggs
10 o z/2 8 4 g lemon juice
1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 .Allowthecherriestothawovernightinasieveso
thejuicedrainsaway.Catchandreservethejuicein
acontainer.Addtothereservedcherryjuiceifthe
cherriesdidnotyieldenough.
2.. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec
tions. Scale1lb4oz/567gforeachpieanddivide
eachintotwopieces. RollonepieceofdoughVsin/3
mmthickandlinethepiepan.Refrigeratethelined
pans. Rollout,wrap,andrefrigeratetheremaining
piecesofdough.
3. Com
bine20floz/6oomLofthecherryjuicewith
thecornstarchandstirtodissolve,makingaslurry.
4 . Com
binetheremaining3%qt/3.60Lcherryjuice
withthesugarandsaltinasaucepanandbringtoa
boiltodissolve.
5. Slow
lyaddtheslurrytothehotcherryjuice, stirring
constantlywithawhisk.Bringthemixturebacktoa
boilandcook,stirringconstantly,untilclear, about1
minute.
6. Foldinthecherriesandlemonjuice.Allowthefill
ingtocoolcompletely.
7. Scale2lb12oz/1.25kgofthefillingintoeachpie
shell,topwithasecondpieceofpiedough,andseal
theedges. Pricksomeholesinthetopofthepieshell
andbrushwiththeeggwash.
8. Bakeonsheetpansina450F/232Covenuntilthe
topofthepieisgoldenbrownandyoucanseethe
fillingbubblinginside,about40minutes.
9 . Servew
armoratroomtemperature.
1126
Pecan Pie
BA K I N G A N D P A S T R Y
6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough

Vsin/3m
mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate
thelinedpans.
2 . Scale4oz/113gofthepecansforeachpieandspread
theminanevenlayerinthebottomofeachunbaked
piecrust.
3. Placethesugarandflourinalargestainless-steel
bowlandwhisktocombine.Addthecornsyrupand
blend.
4 .A
ddtheeggs, salt,andvanillaandstiruntilfully
combined.Blendinthebutter.
5. Scale1lb12oz/794gofthem
ixtureintoeachpre
paredpieshell.
6. Bakeonsheetpansina400F/204Covenuntilthe
fillinghassetandthecrustisagoldenbrown,about
40minutes.
7. Letcoolcom
pletelybeforeserving.
C ranberry-Pecan Pie: S pread2 oz/57gcranberries in an
even layer in the bottom o f each unbaked pie crust
before adding the pecans and fillin g as above.
Pumpkin Pie
B lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
2 lb /9 0 7 g water
5 lb /2.27 kg pumpkin puree
2 lb /9 0 7 g sugar
1 lb 2 o z /5 1 0 g s u g a r
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
10 o z /2 8 4 g lemon juice
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest
2V2 ts p /5 g ground cinnamon
2'Ats p /5 g ground ginger
8 o z/2 2 7 g egg yolks
2 V2 ts p /5
VAts p /2 .5 0 g ground cloves
Italian or Swiss Meringue (page 1024), as needed
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g milk
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie.Rollthedough
Vsin/3m
thelinedpans.
2 . Blindbakethepieshellsuntilfullycooked(seepage
1124). Letcoolcompletely.
3. Com
bine1V2qt/1.44Lofthewaterand1lb/454g
ofthesugarwiththesalt, lemonjuice, andzestina
saucepanandbringtoaboil.
4 . Com
binetheremainingsugarandthecornstarch
andmixthoroughly.Combinetheeggyolkswiththe
remainingwaterandmixthoroughly.Combinethe
twomixturesandblendwell.
5.W
henthelemonmixturecomestoaboil, temperin
theeggyolkmixture.
6. Returnthemixturetoaboil. Boilfor1minute, stir
ringconstantly.Stirinthebutter.
7. Scale1lb8oz/68ogintoeachprebakedpieshell.
Refrigerateovernightbeforetoppingwithmeringue
andbrowning.Themeringuemaybebrownedusing
eitherthebroileroratorch.
g ground nutmeg
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g evaporated milk

15 eggs
1 . Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough

Vsin/3m
thelinedpans.
2 . Com
binethepumpkin,sugars,salt,cinnamon,gin
ger,nutmeg,andclovesandmixuntilsmooth.Mix
togetherthemilk,evaporatedmilk,andeggs.Com
binewiththepumpkinmixture.
3. Blindbakethepieshellsuntilpartiallycooked(see
page1124).
4 . Scale1lb14oz/851gfthepum
pkinmixtureinto
eachprebaked9-in/23-cmpieshell.
5. Bakeonsheetpansina375F/i9iCovenuntilthe
fillingissetandthefillingandcrustaregolden
brownontop,about50minutes.
tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Lemon Meringue Pie
1127
Frangipane Filling
Makes3dozentartlets(3in/8cm)
Poached Pears
Makes12poachedpears
8 o z/2 2 7 g almond paste
12 small pears
l'/4 o z /B 5 g sugar
POACHINGLIQUID
2 eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g red or white wine
8 o z/2 2 7 g water
l '/2 o z/4 3 g cake flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1. Beatthealm
ondpasteandsugarwiththepaddlein
anelectricmixeronlowspeedtobreakupthepaste.
Add1eggandbeatonmediumspeeduntilthereare
nolumps.Addthebutterandcreamwell.
2 . Beatintherem
ainingegg.
3 .A
ddtheflourandmixjustuntilcombined.
4 . Useasafillingfortartshells.
Pear Frangipane
Tartlets
Makes1dozentartlets
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Frangipane Filling (recipe precedes)
6 cloves (optional)
1 cinnamon stick (optional)
1. Peelthepears.Theym
aybeleftwholewiththestem
intact,orhalvedandcored.
2 . Com
bineallthepoachingingredientsinasaucepan
andbringtoasimmer,stirringtodissolvethesugar.
3. Placethepearsinthepoachingliquidandsim
mer
untiltheyaretender.Letthepearscoolinthepoach
ingliquid,drain,anduseasdesired.
Hard Ganache
Makes6V0I2.J2kg
4 lb /2.72 kg dark chocolate, finely chopped
12 Poached Pears (recipe follows), halved

Apricot Glaze (page 1130), warm, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g sliced almonds, toasted and chopped
1. RolloutthedoughtoathicknessofVsin/3m
m-
Usinga4%-in/n-cmcutter,cut12roundsfromthe
dough.Placetheroundsin3-in/8-cmtartringson
asheetpan.Dockthebottomsofthetartletshells
withapastrydockerorthetinesofafork.
2 .U
singapastrybagfittedwithano.5plainpastry
tip,pipe%oz/21gofthefrangipanefillingintoeach
shell,fillingthemhalfway.
3. Slicethepearsandfanthemontopofthefrangipane.
4 . Bakeat375F/i9iCuntiltheshellsandfillingare
goldenbrown,about45minutes.
5. Coolthetartletstoroomtem
perature.
6. Brushthetartletswiththeglaze.Arrangeathinbor
derofalmondsaroundtheedgeofeachtartlet. Serve.
1128
BAKING AND PASTRY
1. Placethechocolateinastainless-steelbow
l.
2 . Bringthecreamjusttoasim
mer. Pourthehot
creamoverthechocolateandallowittostandfor1
minute.
3. Stiruntilthechocolateisthoroughlym
elted.
4 . Theganachecanbeusedim
mediately,oritcanbe
coveredandrefrigerated,thenrewarmed.
Makes32fl 02/960mL
Makes32fl 02/960mL
10 o z/2 8 4 g sugar
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g light corn syrup
10 o z /2 8 4 g glucose
4 o z/1 1 3 g cocoa powder, sifted
2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft
1 lb /4 5 4 g bittersw eet chocolate, melted
1. Com
binethesugar,water,andsyrupinaheavy-
bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilovermediumhighheat. Removefromtheheat.
2 . Placethecocoainabow
landaddenoughofthehot
sugarsyruptomakeapaste,stirringuntilsmooth.
Graduallyaddtheremainingsyrupandmixuntil
fullyincorporated.
3.A
ddthechocolateandblenduntilfullyincorporated.
4 . Strainthesaucethroughafine-m
eshsieve.
5 Servew
armorchilled.
.
1. Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil
overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat
tokeepwarm.
2 . Prepareanicew
aterbath.
3. Com
binethesugarandsyrupinaheavy-bottomed
saucepanandslowlycookovermediumheat,stir
ringconstantly,untilallthesugarhasdissolved.Stop
stirringandcontinuecookingtoagoldencaramel.
Removefromtheheatandshockthesaucepaninthe
icewaterbathtostopthecooking.
4 . Rem
ovethesaucepanfromthebathandstirinthe
butter. Carefullystirinthehotcream,mixinguntil
fullyblended.
5. Servew
armorchilled.
Sabayon
Makes32fl oz/g6omL
Raspberry Coulis
18 egg yolks
Makes32fl 02/960m
i
12 o z/3 4 0 g white wine
2 lb /9 0 7 g fresh or frozen raspberries
1. Com
binetheeggyolks,sugar,andwineinamixer
bowlandwhisktogetheruntilthoroughlyblended.
Placethebowloverapotofsimmeringwaterand
heat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixtureisthick
enedandveryfoamyandhasreachedi8oF/82C.
2 . Transferthebow
ltotheelectricmixerfittedwith
thewirewhipandwhiponmediumspeeduntilcool.
3. Transferthesabayontoacontainerandcoveritw
ith
plasticwrapplaceddirectlyagainstthesurfaceto
preventaskinfromforming.Servewarmoratroom
temperature.
NOTE: If desired, whip 2 4 f I oz/720 mL heavy cream to
tilling, frosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Chocolate Sauce
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed

1 . Com
binetheraspberries, 8oz/227gsugar,and2
tbsp/30mLlemonjuiceinasaucepanovermedium
heat. Simmer, stirring,untilthesugarhasdissolved,
about10minutes.
2.. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m
eshsieve.
3.A
ddadditionalsugarand/orlemonjuice, ifnecessary.
NOTE: An equal amount o f another fruit, such as
strawberries or chopped mangos, can be substituted for
the raspberries.
medium peaks and fo ld it into cooled sabayon.
Z abaglione: S ubstitute Marsala fo r the white wine.
chapter 35 F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
1129
Apricot Glaze
M akes 1 lb 91/2 oz/723 g
Apple Butter
9 o z /2 5 5 g apricot jam
7 lb /3.18 kg apples
9 o z /2 5 5 g corn syrup
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g apple cider
6 o z/1 7 0 g water
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
3 tb s p /4 5 mL liquor, such as rum or brandy
1 tb sp /6 g ground cardamom
1. Com
binealltheingredientsinasaucepan,bringtoa
boil, andstiruntilsmooth.
2 . Usetheglazew
hileitisstillwarm,applyingittothe
itemswithapastrybrush.
Dried Cherry Sauce

M akes 1 lb 10 oz/737 g
3 o z/8 5 g sugar
1 3 o z /3 6 9 g re d w in e
6 o z/1 7 0 g water
1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest
'/ ttsp /l g salt
1 . Peel, core,andslicetheapples. Com

binethemwith
theciderinalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepan,cover,
andbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntiltheapplesarea
softpulp,about30minutes.
2 .Passtheapplepulpthroughafoodm
illintoaclean
saucepan.
3. A
ddthesugar,cardamom,cinnamon,zest,andsalt
andsimmer, stirringfrequently,untilverythick,
about2hours.
4 . Coolcom
pletely,coverandstoreintherefrigerator.
2 tb sp /3 0 mL orange juice
1 vanilla bean
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried cherries
V2 o z/1 4 g cornstarch
1. Com
binethesugar, 12floz/360mLofthewine,the
water,orangejuice, andlemonjuiceinasaucepan.
Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseedsintothepan,
addthepod,andbringthemixturetoaboil. Remove
fromtheheatandaddthecherries.
2 . Refrigerateovernight, covered.
3. Strainthesauce, reservingthecherries. Pourthe
liquidintoasaucepanandbringtoaboil.
4.M
eanwhile,makeaslurrywiththecornstarchand
theremaining2tbsp/30mLwine. Graduallywhisk
theslurryintothesauceandbringbacktoaboil,
whiskinguntilthesaucethickensenoughtocoatthe
backofaspoon.
5.Allowthesaucetocooltoroomtem
perature.
6. Addthereservedcherriesandserveatonce.
1130
Fruit Salsa
Makes 2 lb 2 oz /g 6 4 g
5 o z/1 4 2 g papaya, cut into small dice

5 o z/1 4 2 g mango, cut into small dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g honeydew melon, cut into small dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g strawberries, cut into small dice
2 tb s p /3 0 mL passion fru it juice
1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped mint
3 f I o z/9 0 mL am aretto liqueur
8 o z/2 2 7 g orange juice
3 o z/8 5 g sugar
1. Com
binethepapaya,mango,melonstrawberries,
passionfruitjuice,andmint. Setasidetomacerate.
2 . Com
binetheamaretto,orangejuice, andsugarand
bringtoaboil. Boiluntilreducedbyhalf.Gently
blendthereducedliquidintothefruit.
3. Refrigerateuntilneeded.
desserts
When designing a plated dessert, the chef must consider contrasting
and complementing flavors and textures, the color and style,
customer base, specific event or menu needs, and the environment
for preparation and service. Even with all of this in mind, it is
importantto realize that a dessert does not have to be complex
to be flavorful and memorable. There are a number of simple and
easy ways to dress up a basic dessert. Some simple examples
are the addition of a warm sauce, a frozen element such as ice
cream, or a simple garnish such as a tuile, candied nuts, or
slices of fruit.
trends in plated desserts

When designing a d e s s e rt menu, it is e sse n tia l to con
a t a banquet or c a te rin g event, because the y are basic
sid e r c u rre n t tre n d s to keep you r menu fre s h and in te r
and sim p le to prepare.

Chefs should also consider trend s being im plem ented
esting. Am ong cu rre n t tre n d s is a re tu rn to m ore ru s tic s ty le de sse rts such as g a le tte s and " c o m fo rt fo o d " like
in th e ir menus and tra n s la te th o se concepts in to d e sse rt
pies and cobblers. The appeal o f the se d e sse rts lies in
item s. As a menu changes seasonally o r w ith tre n d s, so
th e ir s im p lic ity o f fla vo r, style , and p re se n ta tio n . These
should th e d e s s e rt menu.
d e sse rts are also ideal fo r p ro d u c tio n in a re s ta u ra n t or
contrast: flavor, taste, texture, temperature,

and eye appeal
The p a s try c o n tra s t ta b le th a t fo llo w s is a visual guide
fillin g th a t s t ill re ta in s a litt le ta rtn e s s fro m th e apples,
to un de rsta n d in g th e basic c h a ra c te ris tic s th a t the
w h ile the ice cream w ill lend its cream y, s o ft te x tu re .
ch e f can use in th e c re a tio n o f a p la te d de sse rt. When
The pie should be served w arm to b ring o u t its fla v o rs
co n ce p tu a lizin g de sserts, th in k a b o u t in c o rp o ra tin g a
and arom as, as w e ll as to pro vid e te m p e ra tu re c o n tra s t
num ber o f c o n tra s tin g c h a ra c te ris tic s by using d iff e r
w ith th e cold ice cream.

C o n tra s tin g e lem e nts in a pla te d d e sse rt are divided
e n t com ponents, b u t never add com p on ents ju s t to have

a n o th e r co n tra st. The num ber o f com p on ents should
am ong fla v o r and arom a, ta s te , te x tu re , te m p e ra tu re ,
make sense f o r th e d e ssert.
and eye appeal. When using th e cha rt, keep a basic
Keep th e idea o f c o n tra s t in m ind when adding new
u n d e rsta n d in g o f cu ltu re and regional a v a ila b ility o f in
de sse rts to a cu rre n t menu o r designing a new menu. A
g re d ie n ts to ensure th e m o st succe ssful com binations.
balanced menu should con tain w arm and cold, sw e e t and
F lavor and ta s te co m b in a tio n s are the m o st in te rre la te d
ta rt, and rich and lean de sserts.
com p on ents on th is cha rt. Depending on your selectio n
C om bining c o n tra s tin g elem e nts on one d e sse rt
o f in g re d ie n ts, one w ill n a tu ra lly fo llo w th e other. Also
p la te w ill keep th e pa la te in te re s te d and e xcite d. The
keep in m ind th a t s w eetness w ill vary only in in te n sity,
classic apple pie a la m ode is a p e rfe c t exam ple. Think
b u t w ill be a com p on ent o f all de sse rts to some degree.

The o b je c t o f th e te x tu ra l com p on ent is to have
o f how it re la te s to th e c o n tra s t ta b le : An exce ptio na l

apple pie w ill have a crisp, fla k y c ru s t and perhaps a
a balance o f m o u th fe e l to o much crunch is not
Contrast Table
SEASONALITY
FLAVOR AND AROMA
TASTE
TEXTURE
TEMPERATURE
PRESENTATION
FALL
C hocolate
S w e et
Crunchy
Frozen
Shape
SPRING
Vanilla
S a lty
Crisp
C hilled
Volum e
SUM M ER
F ru it
B itte r
B r ittle
Cool
C olor
W INTER
Spice
A cid ic
Chewy
Room te m p e ra tu re
V isual te x tu re
N ut
Umami
Cream y
W arm
Liqu id
H ot
Icy
Tender
Cakey
1132
o f th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e com p on ents on any p la te or
P re s e n ta tio n does n o t mean th e p la te needs to be

in tric a te ly pre sen te d. Today, one o f th e b ig g e st tre n d s
menu. W hile each p la te does n o t ne cessa rily need con
is to w a rd m inim alism : p re s e n tin g a u th e n tic, natural f la
tra s ts o f te m p e ra tu re , th e ove rall menu should p re se n t
vo rs in as fre s h and sim p le a m anner as possible.
th e fu ll spe ctru m .
restaurant desserts
Use th e c o n tra s t ta b le to help cre a te a re s ta u ra n t menu.
o f th e w o rk area, as w e ll as its lo ca tio n in re la tio n to
It w ilt help keep every p la te fre sh , d iffe re n t, and original.
th e ovens, re frig e ra to rs , and fre e ze rs, d e te rm in e how
Rem em ber th a t som e d e sse rts w ill n o t be p ra c tic a l be
ce rta in jo b s are accom plished. Keep o fte n -u s e d item s
cause o f you r p a rtic u la r kitch e n setup.
w ith in easy reach and easy to see. Keep e ffic ie n t w o rk
A re s ta u ra n t menu should change w ith every season;

however, you w ill alw ays have a fe w ite m s th a t rem ain
flo w in m ind, t o o as on th e line in th e kitchen, plates

should move in a single d ire c tio n .
co n sta n t, w ith only th e garnish changing. M a in ta in in g
Keep sauces in p la s tic squeeze b o ttle s or a fun nel
se a so n a lity w ith you r menu w ill keep b e tte r co sts as
dropper. These give you m ore c o n tro l over the am ount
w ell as b e tte r fla v o rs . It w ill also make m a rke tin g easier,
and lo ca tio n o f th e sauce on th e p la te or d e sse rt and
as th e fre s h e s t ite m s w ill have the b e st fla v o rs and w ill
make it easy to s to re th e sauces a t th e s ta tio n .
appeal m ore to th e custo m e rs. Use specials to h ig h lig h t

in g re d ie n ts a t th e ir seasonal peak. A good b a ro m e te r
plated desserts
n e cessa rily a good th in g . It is also im p o rta n t to be aw are
To keep th e s ta tio n clean and san itary, have a con

ta in e r o f s a n itiz in g s o lu tio n available, as w e ll as clean
fo r th e success o f a d e s s e rt is how w e ll it sells, b u t also
clo th s o r pa pe r to w e ls and h o t w a te r to w ipe pla te s be
keep in m ind th a t ite m s th a t d o n't sell w e ll may have a
fo re th e y leave th e s ta tio n .
po or place m ent o r w o rd in g on th e menu; i f th o se are

co rre cte d , an ite m th a t used to be p ro b le m a tic could
becom e one o f th e b e s t sellers.
A key in g re d ie n t to th e success o f any d e s s e rt menu
is th e p re se rvice m ee ting . You have to make th e w a ite rs
aw are o f you r fo o d . They should hear ab o u t it and ta s te
it to becom e excite d ab o u t it. O fte n ite m s th a t sell w ell
are fa v o rite s o f th e w a it s ta ff.
PLATING FROZEN DESSERTS

Frozen d e sse rts are an im p o rta n t com ponent o f any
d e s s e rt menu. W hile fro z e n de sse rts are com m only used
as c o m p le m e n ta ry com p on ents o f variou s pla te d des
se rts, th e y can also serve as th e main com ponent. They
can be produced in many and va ried fla v o rs , are suita ble
fo r use w ith d iffe re n t ty p e s o f con tain ers, such as tu ile
DESSERT STATION MISE EN PLACE
cookies o r m olded cho colate cups, and can be m olded in

any v a rie ty o f fo rm s . They w o rk w e ll in an endless num
When s e ttin g up a d e s s e rt s ta tio n , w h e th e r f o r a large
ber o f com b in ation s. O f course, succe ssful pla te d frozen
banq ue t kitch e n o r a sm all re s ta u ra n t, th e re are several
d e sse rts re ly on co n ve n ie n tly lo ca te d fre e z e r space fo r
im p o rta n t co n sid e ra tio n s. The size and co n fig u ra tio n
sto ra g e and service.
plated desserts at banquets

In m o s t cases, any d e s s e rt th a t can be pre pa red
re s tric tio n s may im m e d ia te ly becom e ap pa rent. Lack
and served f o r te n can also be served f o r a hundred.
o f e q u ip m e n t (n o t enough o f a p a rtic u la r m old, f o r ex
Flowever, f o r la rg e r-vo lu m e p la tin g , th e ch e f m ust con
am ple) m ig h t fo rc e you to change th e shape o r look o f a
sid e r eq uipm ent, storag e, tim in g o f service, and labor.

When planning a d e s s e rt f o r a banq ue t menu,
con sid er th e general con cep t o f th e de ssert. C e rta in
de sse rt. T im in g can so m e tim e s be a re s tric tiv e elem ent

f o r p re p a ra tio n s, and in som e cases you may w a n t to
re fo rm u la te th e d e s s e rt to increase its sh e lf life.
chapter 36 P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1133
Makes12servings
plated dessert recipes
Warm Date Spice Cake

with Butterscotch
Sauce, and Cinnamon
Ice Cream
Cinnamon Ice Cream
Makes12servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
'/2 o z /1 4 g glucose
'/ tsp /1 g salt
1 cinnamon stick
COMPONENTS
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon
Date Spice Cake (page 1137)
3V2 o z /9 9 g sugar
Caramelized Apples (page 1138)
8 egg yolks
Butterscotch Sauce (page 1137)

Orange-Scented Creme Chantilly (page 1138)
Phyllo Tubes (page 1137)
Cinnamon Ice Cream (recipe follows)
Apple Chips (page 11 36 )
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks (page 1136)
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2 .W
armthecakesina350F/i77Covenuntilheated
through,about2minutes.
3. Rew
armorpreparethecaramelizedapples.
4 . Spoon2oz/57gfthesauceintothecenterofeach
plate.Placeacakeontopofthesauce.
5.Arrangefivepiecesofcaram
elizedapplearound
eachplate.
6. PipethecremeChantillyintothepreparedphyllo
tubesandplacetwoontopofeachcake.
7. Placeascoopoficecreamonthecenterofthetubes
andtopwithanapplechip.Leanachocolatecinna
monstickagainstthedessert.
1. Inam
ediumsaucepan,combinethemilk,cream,
glucose, salt,cinnamonstick,groundcinnamon,and
about1V2oz/43gfthesugar. Bringtoaboilover
mediumheat. Removefromtheheat,cover,andlet
steepfor5minutes.
2 . Inam
ediumbowl,mixtheremainingsugarwiththe
eggyolksuntilwellcombined.
3. Graduallypourhalfofthem
ilkmixtureintotheegg
yolkmixture,whiskingconstantly.
4 . Returnallingredientstothesaucepanandcontinue
tocook,stirringconstantly,overmediumheatuntil
themixturethickenstonappeconsistency.
5. Strainthem
ixturethroughafine-meshstrainerinto
abain-marie. Chillinanicewaterbathuntiltheice
creambaseisbelow40F/4C.
6. Letthebaserest,refrigerated,overnight.
7. Churninanicecreamm
akeraccordingtomanufac
turersinstructions.
8. Storetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe
freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursorover
night.
1135
The finished apple chips w ill be fu lly dehydrated, crisp, and
Tempered chocolate is form ed to mimic a cinnamon stick.
easy to remove from the Silpat.
Apple Chips
M akes 12 servings
2 apples, peeled, sliced '/i6 in /1.50 mm thick
M akes 12 servings
V2 ts p /2.50 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g melted milk chocolate
Ground cinnamon, as needed to coat
1 . Spreadtheslicedapplesonasheetpanandbrush
themwithlemonjuice.
2 . Inam
ediumpot,bringthesugarandwatertoasim
merovermediumheat. Simmeruntilthesugaris
dissolved.
3. H
eatthesyrupuntilitregistersi8oF/82Conan
instant-readthermometer.Addtheappleslicesand
poachuntilsoft, about30seconds.
4 . Useaspidertorem
ovetheapplesfromthesyrup
andtransferthemtosheetpanlinedwithaSilpat.
Arrangetheslicesinasinglelayer.
5. Drytheapplesinai8oF/82Covenovernight. Store
inanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice.
NOTE: For faster drying, the chips can also be dried in a
200F/93C oven fo r 1 t o 2 hours.
1136
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon

Sticks
1. Stirtheoilintothem
eltedchocolateuntilfully
combined.
2 .H
eatasheetpanina200F/93Covenuntilslightly
warm,about30seconds.
3. Spreadthechocolateontothebackofthesheetpanin
athin,evenlayer.
4 . Placethesheetpaninthefreezerfor30m
inutes,then
intherefrigeratorfor15minutes.
5. Rem
ovethepanfromtherefrigerator,andletitsitat
roomtemperatureuntilthechocolatebecomespliable.
6. Makecinnamonstickshapesusingabenchknife:
Holdthebenchknifeata45-degreeangleandrollthe
chocolatetothemiddleofthesheetpan.Repeatthis
motionacrossthechocolate,thenturnthesheetpan
aroundandrepeatintheoppositedirectionsothatthe
twotubeswillmeetinthecentertofinishthecinna
monstickshape.
7. Rollthefinishedsticksingroundcinnam
ontocoat.Re
serveinanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice.
Phyllo Tubes
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pitted dates, finely diced
2 sheets phyllo dough
2 tb s p /3 0 m L brandy
M elted butter, as needed
1VAo z/3 1 9 g butter

1 lb I V 2 o z /4 9 6 g dark brown sugar
3/tts p /2 .5 0 g s a lt
7 eggs
1. Brushonesheetofphyllow
ithmeltedbutter,and
gentlyplacetheotherpieceofphylloontop.Brush
thesurfaceofthetopsheetwithbutter.
2 . Cutthephyllointostrips2Vi by V in/6by17cm
.
W
rapeachphyllostriparoundasmallcannolitube.
3. Bakethephyllotubesina375F/i9iCovenuntil
goldenbrown,4to6minutes. Coolcompletely.Re
servethetubesinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded
forservice.
6
Vi o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
&Ao z/1 7 7 g sour cream

1 lb VAo z/4 9 6 g all-purpose flour
VAts p /5.25 g baking powder
'/2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground allspice
1. Inasm
allbowl,tossthedateswiththebrandy.Set
aside.
2 . Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
paddle,creamthebutter,brownsugar,andsaltuntil
lightandfluffy,4to5minutes.
3.A
ddtheeggsgradually,scrapingdownthebowlwell
aftereachadditiontomakesurethebatterishomo
geneous.Addthevanillaandsourcreamandmix
untilfullyincorporated.
4 . Gentlyaddtheflour,bakingpow
der,cinnamon,and
allspice,mixingjustuntilincorporated.
5. Rem
ovethebowlfromthemixerandusearubber
spatulatogentlyfoldthedatesintothebatter.
6. Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper. Pour
thebatterintothepreparedpanandspreaditevenly
across. Bakeina325F/i62Covenuntillightly
browned,25to30minutes. Letcoolcompletely.
7. Cutthecakeusinga3-in/8-cmring.Setaside.The
cakemaybestoredinanairtightcontaineratroom
temperature,orwrappedandfrozenforlateruse.
Date Spice Cake
Butterscotch Sauce
M akes 12 servings
2 V 2 o z/7 1 g corn syrup

1 ts p /3 g salt
'A o z/7 g vanilla extract
1. Inam
ediumsaucepot,combinethebrownsugar,
butter, cream,cornsyrup,andsalt. Bringthemix

turetoasimmerovermediumheat.
2 . Continuesim
mering,stirringoccasionally,untilthe
saucethickensslightly,2to4minutes.
3. Rem
ovefromtheheatandstirinthevanilla.Letcool
andreserverefrigerateduntilneededforservice.
Chapter 36 P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1137
Orange-Scented Creme
Chantilly
Caramelized Apples
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 o z/2 8 g butter
14 apples, peeled, tourneed
2 tb sp /1 4 g orange zest
3 o z /8 5 g sugar
Pinch salt
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Calvados
Inthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamandzestonmedium-high
speeduntilthickened.
Graduallyaddthesugarandcontinuetowhipuntil
thecreamholdssoftpeaks.
Transferthecreamtoanairtightcontainerorpiping
bagandreserve,refrigerated,untilneededforservice.
1.M
eltthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium
heat.Addtheapplesandsauteuntiltheybeginto
becometender, 3to4minutes.
2 .A
ddthesugarandsaltandincreasetheheattohigh.
Continuetocookuntilthesugarcaramelizes,5to6
minutesmore.
3. Deglazethepanw
iththeCalvados.Removethe
applesfromtheheat. Letcoolcompletelybefore
storingintherefrigeratorinanairtightcontainer.
NOTE: The apples must be rewarmed prior to serving, or they
can be made a la minute.
BAKING AND PASTRY
M akes 12 servings
Blackberry and P o rtPoached Pears with

Ricotta Cream and
Sable Cookies
Blackberry and Port-Poached

Pears
M akes 12 servings
6 Forelle pears
10 o z/2 8 4 g water
10 o z/2 8 4 g Ruby port
10 o z/2 8 4 g blackberry puree
COMPONENTS
Ricotta Cream (page 1140)
Sable Cookies (page 1140)
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears (recipe follows)
1 o z/2 8 g lemon juice

lt b s p / 9 g lemon zest
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
Vi cinnamon stick
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2 . Scoopaquenelleofthecreamatadiagonalontothe
edgeofeachplate.
3. Placeacookieatanangleontheoppositeendof
eachplate.
4 . Thinlyslicethepearsw
ithaparingknife,leaving
themattachedatthestemsothattheycanbefanned
out.
5. Spoonsom
eofthepoachingliquidontoeachplate,
andtopwithapearhalf.
2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch
1. Peelthepearsandcutinhalflengthw
ise. Remove
thecorewithamelonbailer.
2 .Com
binethewater,port,blackberrypuree,lemon
juiceandzest,sugar,vanillabeanandseeds,andcin
namonstickinalargesaucepanovermediumheat
andplacethepearsintotheliquid.
3. Coverw
ithparchmentpaper,weighthepearsdown
iftheyfloat,andkeeptheliquidjustbelowasimmer
untilthepearsaretender,30to40minutes.
4 . Coolthepearsinthepoachingliquid,andstorein
thepoachingliquid,refrigerated,forupto3days.
5. Straintheliquidintoasaucepanandbringtoasim
merovermediumheat. Putthecornstarchinasmall
bowlandaddjustenoughwatertomakeathin,
runnypaste. Stirringconstantly,addsomeofthehot
liquidtothestarchmixturetotemperit.
6. Beginstirringtheliquidinthepotandaddthetem
peredslurry.Stirgentlyandsimmeruntilitreaches
alightnappeconsistency.
1139
Sable Cookies
Ricotta Cream
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g ricotta cheese
91/2 o z/2 69 g confectioners' sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
4 o z/1 1 3 g cream cheese
V 2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g egg yolks
2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r
1 lb l l o z / 7 6 5 g all-purpose flour
l t s p / 3 g lemon zest
Pinch salt
Sanding sugar, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 mL heavy cream
1. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
paddle,creamthebutter,sugar,salt,andvanillaon
mediumspeedfor5minutes.
2 .Graduallyaddtheeggyolks, scrapingw
ellaftereach
addition.
3.A
ddtheflourandmixonlowspeeduntilitisjust
combined.
4 . Onalightlyflouredsurface,rollthedoughouttoV2
in/icmthick.Transfertoaparchment-linedsheet
panandchilluntilfirm.
5. Eggw
ashthecookiesandsprinklelightlywithsand
ingsugar.
6. Bakethecookiesina375F/i9iCovenuntiljustset,
20to25minutes.
7. Letthecookiescoolslightly,thenuseaserrated
knifetocutintorectangles1by3in/3by8cm.
8. Returnthecutcookiestothebakingsheetandbake
untillightlygolden,5to10minutesmore.Allowthe
cookiestocoolcompletelyandstoreinanairtight
containeratroomtemperatureuntilneeded.
1140
BAKING AND PASTRY
l '/2 sheets gelatin
1.M
ixthericotta,pastrycream,creamcheese,vanilla,
sugar,zest,andsaltuntilsmooth.
2 . Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Reserve.
3. Bloomthegelatinintepidw
aterfor3to5minutes.
Removethegelatinsheetsfromthewaterand
squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Combinethegelatin
with4oz/113gofthecheesemixture.
4 .H
eatthegelatin-cheesemixtureinadoubleboiler
oversimmeringwateruntilitregisters130F/54C
onaninstant-readthermometer. Removefromthe
heatandaddtheremainingcheesemixturetocool
slightly.
5. Gentlyfoldinthecream
. Reservethemixturein
anairtightcontainer, refrigerated,untilneededfor
service.
M akes 12 servings
Lemon Souffle
Tart w ith Basil Ice
Cream and Blueberry
Compote
Basil Ice Cream

M akes 2V2 qts/2.40 L
BASIL PUREE
5 o z/1 4 2 g basil leaves
Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed
ICECREAM
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g milk
COMPONENTS

Lemon Curd (page 1145)
l ' / 2 o z / 4 3 g glucose
Tartlet Shells (page 1144)
Pinch salt
Fresh blueberries
1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar
Common Meringue (page 1024)
2 2 egg yolks
Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting
6 o z /1 7 0 g Basil Puree (above)

Basil Sauce (page 1145)
1.Tom
akethebasilpuree,bringasmallpotofwater
Blueberry Compote (page 1145)

Basil Ice Cream (recipe follows)
Tuiles (page 11 44 )
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2.. Spread oz/7glem
oncurdinthebaseofeachtart
V4
shell. Placeafewblueberriesontop.
3. Foreachtart, m
akeacommonmeringuewith
oz/14geggwhitesand oz/14gsugar.Gentlyfoldit
intotheremaininglemoncurdandmoundthemix
tureinthetartshells.
4 . Dustthetopofeachtartw
ithconfectionerssugar.
Bakeina400F/204Covenuntillightlygoldenand
puffed,about8minutes.
5. Letthetartscoolfor1m
inutebeforeremovingthem
fromthepan.
6. Spoonbasilsauceinaringaroundtheedgeofeach
plate. Placeatartinthecenterofeachplate. Spoon
someblueberrycompoteonthesideandaddascoop
ofthebasilicecream.Finisheachplatewithatuile.
V2
V2
toaboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewater
bath.
2 .Blanchthebasilintheboilingw
aterfor20sec
onds. Shockinanicewaterbath,drain,and
squeezetoremoveexcesswater.
3.Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasil
leaveswithenoughsimplesyruptomakethemix
turesmooth.
4 .Reserve,covered,untilyouarereadytom
akethe
icecream.
5.Tom
aketheicecream,combinethemilk,cream,
glucose,salt,and5Vioz/155gofthesugarinamedi
umsaucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.
6. Inamediumbowl,combinetheremainingsugar
withtheeggyolks,mixinguntilfullycombined.
7.W
henthemilkmixturereachesasimmer, slowly
poursomeintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyto
tempertheyolkmixture.
8. Returnalloftheingredientstothesaucepanand
continuetocookovermediumheat,stirringcon
stantly,untilthemixturethickenstoanappe
consistency.
9 .Straintheicecreambasethroughafine-m
esh
strainer,andplaceimmediatelyintoanicewa
terbath.Chilluntiltheicecreambaseisbelow
40F/4C.
continued
c h a p te r 36 P LA TE D DES SE R TS
1 143
10 .Stirinthebasilpureejustbeforechurning.Churn
inanicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufac
turersinstructions.
11 .Placetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe
freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursor
overnight.
NOTE: This puree must be made the same day as the ice
cream w ill be churned so that it maintains its flavor and
Tuiles
M akes 2 lb 4 0 z h .0 2 kg batter
93/ t o z/2 7 6 g confectioners' sugar
Pinch salt

4!/t o z/1 2 0 g egg whites, room temperature
color.
5 3/t o z / 1 6 3 g honey
V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
Tartlet Shells
M akes 12 tart shells
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086)
1. Onaflouredsurface, rolloutthedoughtoVsin/3
mmthick.Cutthedoughinto4-in/io-cmrounds.
2.. Placetw
elve3-in/8-cmtartpansonaparchmentlinedbakingsheet. Gentlypressthedoughintothe
tartpans.Refrigerateuntilthedoughisfirm.
3. Lineeachshellw
ithroundsofparchmentandfill
withpieweights.
4 . Bakethetartshellsina375F/i9iCovenuntilthe
shellsbegintoset, 10to15minutes.
5. Rem
ovetheweightsandparchmentfromtheshells
andbrushlightlywitheggwash.Continuetobake
untilgolden,about10minutesmore.
6. Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature
untilneededforservice.
1. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad
dle,combinethesugar,flour,andsalt.
2 .A
ddthebutterandapproximatelyone-quarterof
theeggwhitesandmixonlowspeeduntilasmooth,
thickpasteforms.
3.A
ddthehoneyandmixuntilcombined.Gradually
addtheremainingeggwhitesandthevanilla,mixing
justtocombine.
4 . Coverthebatterinanairtightcontainerandreserve,
refrigerated,untilreadytobake.
5. Preheattheovento375cF/i9iC.Spreadthebatter
intostripsViby4in/iby10cmindiameterona
sheetpanandbakeuntilgolden,about15minutes.
Allowtocoolforamomentonthepan,thenremove
thecookiesandallowtocoolcompletelyonracks.
6. Storeatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainer.
NOTES: It is im portant that the b u tte r and egg whites be at
room temperature. If they are too cold, the batter will
separate.
This b a tte r can be made up to a week in advance. It can
be warmed in the microwave, if necessary, to bring it
back to spreadable consistency.
1144
BAKING AND PASTRY
Blueberry Compote
Makes12servings
Makes12servings
2 bunches basil, leaves only
1 lb /4 5 4 g blueberries
Corn syrup, as needed
1 tb sp /9 g lemon zest
1. Bringasm
allpotofwatertoaboilovermedium
heat. Prepareanicewaterbath.
2 . Blanchthebasilintheboilingw
aterfor20seconds.
Shockintheicewaterbath,drain,andsqueezeto
removeexcesswater.
3. Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasilleaves
withenoughcornsyruptomakeasmoothsauce.
Adjusttheconsistencywithcornsyrupasnecessary.
4 . Reserve, covered,untilneededforservice.
Lemon Curd
Makes12servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
9 o z /2 5 5 g s u g a r
Sugar, as needed
1. Inasm
allsaucepan,combine12oz/340gofthe
blueberrieswiththelemonzest,juice, andenough
watertojustcover.
2 . Bringthem
ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat.
Continuetocook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheber
riesaresoft,4to5minutes.
3. Rem
ovefromtheheatandstirinsugartotaste.Cool
completely.
4 . Inafoodprocessororblender,pureethesauceuntil
smooth.Strainthesaucethroughafine-meshstrain
erandadjusttheconsistencywithwaterifnecessary.
5. Reserve,covered,untilneededforservice. Fold
intheremaining4oz/113gblueberriesjustbefore
Basil Sauce
12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cut into small cubes
6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g lemon juice

l t b s p /9 g lemon zest
'A o z/7 g cornstarch

Pinch salt
1. Inam
ediumheatproofbowl,whisktogetherthe
eggsandsugaruntilwellcombined.
2 .A
ddtheremainingingredientsandplacethebowl
overamediumsaucepanofsimmeringwater.
3. Continuetocook,w
hiskingfrequently,untilthe
mixtureisthickandregistersi85F/85Conan
instant-readthermometer.
4 . Strainthecurdthroughafine-m
eshstrainerintoa
hotelpan.Coverthecurddirectlywithplasticwrap
andrefrigerateuntilchilled.
1145
Key Lime Tart

M akes 12 servings
COMPONENTS
Creme Chantilly (recipe follows)
Key Lime Tart (recipe follows)
Strawberry Coulis (recipe follows)
2 . Stirinthelim
ejuice. Mixuntilwellblended,butdo
notovermix.
3. Pourthefillingintothepreparedcrustandbakein
300F/i49Covenuntilthecustardisset,about10
minutes.
4 . Letthetartcooltoroomtem
perature,thenwrap
andfreezeovernight. Thefillingwillhaveatexture
similartocheesecake.
Limes
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2 . Evenlyspreadalayerofcrem
eChantillyonthesur
faceofthetart. Cutthetartinto12evenpieces.
3. Placeonetartsliceontoeachplateandspoonsom
e
strawberrycoulisontoeachplate.
4 Spoonaquenelleofcrem
eChantillyontoeachslice
ofthetartandtopwithatwistedwheeloffreshlime.
Graham Cracker Crust

M akes g 3A OZI276 g
3 o z/8 5 g melted butter
3/ t o z /2 1 g sugar
Pinch salt
Creme Chantilly
1. Com
bineallingredientsinamediumbowl.Pressthe
crustevenlyintoaio-in/25-cmtartpan.
2 . Bakeina325F/i63Covenuntilthecrusthasset
andisslightlybrowned,about12minutes.Allowthe
crusttocoolcompletelybeforefilling.
V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
1. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.
2 .A
ddthesugarandvanillaandcontinuetowhipuntil
thecreamreachesmediumpeaks. Reserve,refriger
ated,untilneededforservice.
Key Lime Tart
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sweetened condensed milk
5 '/t o z/1 49 g eggs
2'A o z/6 6 g egg yolks

6 o z/1 7 0 g Key lime juice
Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows)
1 . Inalargebow
l,combinethecondensedmilk,eggs,
andyolks.
Strawberry Coulis
M akes 16 oz/454 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g strawberries
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1. Com
binethestrawberries,4oz/113gfthesugar,
and1tbsp/15mLofthelemonjuiceinamedium
nonreactivesaucepan.Allowthefruittomacerate
for20to30minutes.
2 . Bringthem
ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,stir
ringuntilthesugarhasdissolved,about10minutes.
Puree.
3. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m
eshstrainer.Ad
justtheflavorwiththeremainingsugarandlemon
juice. Storethecoulisinanairtightcontaineruntil
neededforservice.
NOTE: If desired, add a slurry made o f 2 tbsp/30 mL water
and V 2oz/1 4 g cornstarch per 16 f I oz/4 80 mL o f coulis
to the sauce to thicken it. Bring the coulis to a boil,
gradually whisk in the slurry, and bring back to a boil.
Cool com pletely before using.
1146
BAKING AND PASTRY
Key Lime Tart
Mango and PassionPoached Pineapple

with Coconut Flan and
Cilantro Sorbet
3. Placethem
ixtureoveralargepotofsimmeringwa
terandcookuntiltender, 1V2to2hours.
4 . Rem
ovefromtheheat, addthebananaslices,cover,
andrefrigeratethemixtureovernight.
Cilantro Sorbet
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
COMPONENTS
SORBET SYRUP
Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple (recipe follows)
Coconut Flans (page 1150)
8 o z/2 2 7 g water
Cilantro Sorbet (recipe follows)
2 o z /5 7 g glucose
Coconut Chips (page 1150)
SORBET
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g cilantro, leaves only
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12bow
ls.
2 . Rem
ovethepineapplefromtheliquidandreserve.
Straintheliquidandadjusttheconsistencywithwa
terifnecessary.
3. Gentlyunm
oldtheflans,andplacetowardtheback
ofeachbowl.
4 . Pourabout4oz/113gfthepoachingliquidinto
eachbowl,andplaceawedgeofpineappleinfront
oftheflan.
5. Scoopaquenelleofsorbetontopofeachflanand
topwithacoconutchip.
Pineapple
M akes 12 portions
1 pineapple
12 o z/3 4 0 g mango puree
4 o z/1 1 3 g passion fru it puree
6 o z/1 7 0 g water
3/ f oz/21 g lime juice
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
1 banana, sliced
1. Trimthepineappleandcutinto12w
edges.
2 . Placethepineappleinalargeheatproofbow
lwith
1 lb 6 V 2 o z /6 3 8 g water
6 'A o z / l l l g stabilizer
I V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar
3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g lime juice
1. Inam
ediumsaucepan,bringalltheingredientsfor
thesorbetsyruptoaboil.
2 . Coverthesyrupandreserve, refrigerated,untilready
tomakethesorbet.
3. Tom
akethesorbet,bringamediumpotofwaterto
aboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewaterbath.
4 . Blanchthecilantroleavesintheboilingw
aterfor
20seconds. Shockintheicewaterbathanddrain,
squeezingtoremoveexcesswater.
5.W
eighthecilantroleavesandaddenoughofthewa
tertoequal22%oz/638g.
6. Pureethewaterandcilantrountilsmooth.Trans
ferthemixturetoalargebowl.Addtheremaining
waterandthe oz/517gsorbetsyrupandstirto
combine.
7. Inasm
allbowl,combinethestabilizer,sugar,and
limejuice. Graduallyblendintothecilantromixture
usinganimmersionblender.
8. Churnthesorbetinanicecreammachineaccording
tomanufacturersinstructions.
9 . Placethesorbetinanairtightcontainerandfreeze
untilfirmenoughtoscoop,8hoursorovernight.
18V4
thefruitpurees,water, limejuice, andsugar.
1149
Coconut Chips
Coconut Flans
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 fresh coconut
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g water
Splitthecoconutinhalfbyhittingallaroundits
equator.
Placethetwohalvesonasheetpanandbakeina
350F/i77Covenuntiltender,30to40minutes.
Letthecoconutcoolcompletely,thenprytheflesh
loosefromtheshell.Useavegetablepeelertomake
12half-moonslicesofcoconut.
Bringsomesimplesyruptoagentlesimmerover
mediumheat.Addthecoconutslicesandcontinue
tosimmerfor5minutes. Removefromtheheatand
letthecoconutcoolinthesyrupovernight.
LineasheetpanwithaSilpat. Placethecoconut
ontothesheetpanandbakeat300F/i49Cuntil
goldenbrown.
Storethecoconutchipsinanairtightcontainerat
roomtemperatureuntilneededforservice.
4 o z/1 1 3 g corn syrup

1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g sweetened condensed milk
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g unsweetened coconut milk
4 eggs
Pinch salt
1. Inam
ediumpot,combinethesugarandwater.
Bringtoaboil, stirringconstantly.
2 .A
ddthecornsyrupandcontinuetocook,without
stirring.W
ashdownthesidesofthepotoccasionally
withwaterandapastrybrushtoavoidcrystallization.
3. Continuetocookuntilam
ediumcaramelforms.
Removefromtheheatandpourenoughintoeachof
12ramekinstocoverthebase. Reserve.
4 . Inalargebow
l,whisktogetherthecondensed
milk,coconutmilk,eggs,vanilla,andsaltuntilwell
combined.
5. Dividethem
ixtureevenlyamongthecaramel-coatedramekins. Placetheramekinsinahotelpanand
fillthehotelpanwithenoughwarmwatertocome
atleasthalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.
6. Baketheflansina325F/i63Covenuntilthecus
tardhasset,30to35minutes.
7. Refrigeratetheflansatleast4hoursbeforeunm
old
ingfromtheramekins.
NOTE: The flan can be stored in the ramekins fo r up to 3 days
before unmolding.
B A K IN G AN D PASTRY
Graham Cracker Ice Cream
M akes 12 servings
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
COMPONENTS
1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g m i lk
Graham Cracker Crust for Smores (page 1152)
1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g h e a v y c r e a m
Graham Cracker Ice Cream (recipe follows)
l '/2 o z / 4 3 g g lu c o s e
Marshmallow (page 1152)
5 o z /1 4 2 g g ra h a m c ra c k e r c ru m b s
Classic Caramel Sauce (page 1153)
5V2 o z / 1 5 6
White Sauce (page 1154)
1 v a n i l la b e a n ,
Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)
2 2 e g g y o lk s
Chocolate Beignet Batter (page 1154)
5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r
Oil, as needed for deep frying

Chocolate Graham Decor (page 1152)
Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting
ASSEMBLY
1.Lineabakingsheetw
ithparchmentandtopwith
12ringmolds.
2 .PresslAozlj gofthegrahamcrackercrustintothe
bottomofeachringmold.
3.Portionthechurnedicecreamintotheringsand
freezeovernight.
4 .Rem
ovetheicecreamfromtheringsandwrap
withmarshmallow.Keepfrozenuntilservice.
5.Prepare12plates. Decoratethecenteroftheplate
withthecaramelandwhitesauces.
6. Useablowtorchtotoasttheoutsideofthemarsh
mallow.
7.Coatthefrozentrufflesinbeignetbatterandfryin
theoilat350F/i77Cuntilcookedthrough,3to4
minutes. Removewithaspideranddrainonpaper
towels.
8. Placeoneportionofmarshmallow-wrappedice
creamoneachplateontopofthesauceswiththe
crustdown.Topwithapieceofchocolatedecor.
9 .Dustthebeignetsw
ithconfectionerssugarand
placeoneontopofthedecoroneachplate.
10 .Crackthebeignetsopenw
ithaparingknifebefore
serving.
g d a rk b ro w n s u g a r
split
a n d s e e d s re m o v e d
ts p /1 g salt
S'mores
1. Inam
ediumpot,bringthemilk,heavycream,glu
cose, crumbs,brownsugar,andvanillabeantoa
simmerovermediumheat.
2 . Inam
ediumbowl,whisktogethertheyolks,granu
latedsugar,andsaltuntilwellcombined.
3.W
henthemilkmixtureissimmering,pouritinan
evenstreamintotheyolkmixture,whiskingcon
stantly.
4 . Returnthem
ixturetothepotandcontinuetocook,
stirringconstantly,untilthemixturereachesnappe
consistency.
5. Strainthebasethroughafine-m
eshstrainerintoa
bain-marieinanicewaterbath.Chilluntilthemix
tureisbelow40F/4C.
6. Churninanicecreammakeraccordingtomanufac
turersinstructions.
7. Placeinanairtightcontainerandfreezeuntilfirm
enoughscoop,8hoursorovernight.
1151
Chocolate Graham Decor
Marshmallow
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g melted chocolate, tempered
3/ t o z/21 g powdered gelatin
Graham cracker crumbs, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g cold water
Spreadthemeltedchocolateontoparchmentpaper
withanoffsetspatulatoaboutVsin/3mmthick.
Sprinklegenerouslywithgrahamcrackercrumbs
beforethechocolatefullysets.
Cuttheslabofchocolateinto21/2-in/6-cmsquares
withaparingknife.Topwithanotherpieceofparch
mentpaper,andtopwithasheetpantokeepthe
decorflatasitsets.
Graham Cracker Crust for
S'mores
M akes 12 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter
Inamediumbowl,combinealltheingredients.Re
servethecrustmixtureinanairtightcontaineruntil
needed.
6 o z/1 7 0 g glucose
2 o z/5 7 g honey
2 o z/5 7 g invert sugar
3 o z/8 5 g water
V* o z/7 g vanilla extract

Confectioners sugar, as needed for dusting
1.Lineasheetpanw
ithoiledparchmentpaper.
2 .Inasm
allbowl,stirthegelatinintothecoldwater
tobloom.
3.Inam
ediumsaucepan,cookthesugar,glucose,
honey,invertsugar,and3oz/85gwateruntilitreg
isters250F/i2iConaninstant-readthermometer.
4 .Pourthesugarm
ixtureintothebowlofanelectric
mixerfittedwiththewirewhipandallowtocool
to212F/lOOC.
5.M
eltthegelatininadoubleboiler.W
henthesugar
mixturehascooled,addthegelatinandwhipon
highspeeduntilthick,about8minutes.
6. Addthevanillaextractandmixtofullycombine.
7.Spreadthem
arshmallowontothepreparedsheet
panusingalightlyoiledspatula.
8. Placeanothersheetofoiledparchmentontop
ofthemarshmallowandflattenuntilthetopis
smoothandeven.
9 .Freezethem
arshmallowovernight.
1 0 .D
ustthetopofthemarshmallowwithconfection
erssugaranduseapastrywheeltocutintostrips
1V2by6in/4by15cm
.
1 1.Storeatroomtem
peratureinanairtightcontainer.
M akes 40 centers
M akes 12 servings
8 3/ t o z/2 4 8 g heavy cream
2 3/t o z / 7 8 g glucose
9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
10 o z/2 8 4 g glucose
40 tru ffle shells
2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft
Melted bittersw eet chocolate, as needed
1. Inasm
allpot,bringtheheavycreamandglucoseto
asimmerovermediumheat.
2 . Placethechoppedchocolateinam
ediumstainlesssteelbowl.Pourthehotcreammixtureoverthe
chocolate.
3. Letthem
ixturesitfor1minute,thenstirfromthe
middleofthemixturetotheoutside,untilcombined
intoasmoothganche.
4 .Transfertoahotelpanandletthem
ixturesitfor1
houratroomtemperature.
5. Transferthem
ixturetoapipingbagfittedwitha
mediumplaintip.Pipethemixtureintothetruffle
shells,leavingjustenoughroomatthetoptoclose
thetruffleswithmeltedchocolate. Letthefilled
trufflessetintherefrigeratorfor1hour.
6. Poursomemeltedchocolateintoapipingbag,and
cutasmallholeinthetip.Finisheachtrufflebyclos
ingitwithmeltedchocolate.
7. Freezethetrufflecentersuntilcom
pletelyfrozen,
about2hours.
1 . Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil
overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat
tokeepwarm.
2 . Prepareanicew
aterbath.Combinethesugarand
glucoseinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandslowly
cookovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,untilthe
sugarhasdissolved.Stopstirringandcontinueto
cooktoagoldencaramel. Removefromtheheatand
shockthesaucepanintheicewaterbathtostopthe
cooking.
3. Rem
ovefromtheicewaterbathandstirthebutter
intothecaramel. Carefullystirinthehotcream,
mixinguntilfullyblended.
4 . Reserveatroomtem
peratureuntilneededforser
vice. Forlongerstorage,placeinanairtightcontain
erandrefrigerate.W
armthesaucebeforeuse.
c h a p te r 36 P LA TE D DESSERTS
Beignet Truffle Centers
1153
White Sauce
Chocolate Beignet Batter
M akes 12 servings
M akes 40 beignets
8 o z/2 2 7 g sour cream
9'/2 o z/2 69 g bread flour
3/ t oz/21 g confectioners sugar
6'/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar
'A o z/7 g vanilla extract
3 o z/8 5 g cocoa powder
Heavy cream, as needed
V* o z/7 g baking powder
1. Inasm
allbowl,combinethesourcream,sugar,and
vanilla.Stirinheavycreamuntilthemixturereaches
athick,honey-likeconsistency.
2 . Storethefinishedsaucerefrigeratedinanairtight
containeruntilneededforservice.
l t s p /3 g s a lt
8'/2 o z/2 4 0 g whole milk

7 o z/1 9 8 g e g g s
V/2 o z /4 3 g canola oil

40 Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)
NOTE: The sauce will thicken slightly under refrigeration.

Adjust the consistency w ith additional heavy cream if
necessary.
Flour, as needed for dusting
1 . Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad
dle,combinethebreadflour,sugar,cocoapowder,
bakingpowder,andsalt.
2 .A
ddthemilk,eggs,oil, andvanillaandcontinueto
mixuntilasmoothbatterforms.
3. Transferthem
ixturetoanairtightcontainerandlet
itrest,refrigerated,overnight.
4 . Coatthetrufflecentersw
ithflourbeforedipping
intobatter(seeAssembly,page1151).
1154
BAKING AND PASTRY
S'mores (page 1151)
Vanilla Ice Cream
M akes 12 servings
COMPONENTS
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
Chocolate Sauce (page 1159)
Caramel Sauce (page 1159)
1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup
White Sauce (page 1154)
Chocolate Pate a Choux (page 1160)
' / t t s p / l g salt
Corn Flake Crunch (page 1159)
Confectioners sugar, as needed for dusting
1 0 3/ t o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks
Vanilla Ice Cream (recipe follows)

Coffee Ice Cream (page 1158)
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream (page 1158)
Chocolate Straws (page 1160)
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12bow
ls.
2 . Pipealternatingdotsofthechocolate, caram
el, and
whitesaucesaroundtheperimeterofeachbowl.
3. Sw
irlthesaucestogetherwithatoothpick.
4 . Filleachpateachouxpastryw
ithapproximately
1tbsp/15mLofthecornflakecrunch.
5. Dustthereservedpateachouxtopsw
ithconfection
erssugar.
6. Place3pastriesoneachplateandfilleachwitha
3A-il o
z/22-mLscoopofthevanilla,coffee, anddulce
delecheicecream.
7. Toptheicecreamw
ithchocolatesaucetoforma
triangle.
8. Finishbyplacingthesugar-dustedtopsbackonto
eachprofiteroleandaddingtwochocolatestraws.
1.Com
binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe
sugar,thesalt,andthevanillabeanpodandseeds
inasaucepan.
2 .Bringthem
ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat
andcook,stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.
3.Rem
ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit
tosteepfor5minutes.
4 .M
ingsugar.
5.Rem
ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand
returnthemixturetoasimmer.
6. W
hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe
eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper.
7.Returntheeggm
ixturetothesaucepanwiththe
remaininghotliquidandstirconstantlyoverme
diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat
thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes.
8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer
overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit
reaches40F/4C,about1hour.
9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam
inimumof12hours.
10 .Churninanicecreamm
achineaccordingtothe
manufacturersdirections.
11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand
freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.
plated desserts recipes
P rofiteroles
1157
Coffee Ice Cream
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 can (14 o z/3 9 6 g) sweetened condensed milk
1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream
2 o z/5 7 g coarsely ground coffee
I/4 ts p /1 g salt
' / i t s p / l gsalt
10 3/ t o z /3 0 5 g egg yolks
1.Com
sugar,thecoffee,andthesaltinasaucepan.
2 .Bringthem
ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.Donotbring
themixturetoaboil.
3.Rem
ovefromtheheat, coverthepan,andallowit
tosteepfor5minutes.
4 .M
ingsugar.
5.Strainthecoffeegroundsfromthem
ilkandreturn
themixturetoasimmer.
6. W
7.Returntheeggm
ixturetothesaucepanwiththe
remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme
8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer
9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam
inimumof12hours.
11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand
BAKING AND PASTRY
1 0 3A o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks
1 .Placethecanofcondensedm
ilkinapotandcover
withatleast1in/3cmwater.
2 .Sim
merfor4hours,makingsuretokeepthecan
coveredwithwater. Storetheunopenedcanat
roomtemperatureuntilneeded.
3.Com
sugar,thesalt, andthevanillabeanpodandseeds
inasaucepan.
4 .Bringthem
ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.
5.Rem
ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit
tosteepfor5minutes.
6. Meanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain
ingsugar.
7.Rem
ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand
returnthemixturetoasimmer.
8. W
9 .Returntheeggm
ixturetothesaucepanwith
remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme
10.Straintheicecreambaseintoam
etalcontainer
11 .W
hileitcools, stirthecontentsofthecondensed
milkcanthoroughlyintothehotbase.Coverand
refrigerateforaminimumof12hours.
13.Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand
Vanilla Caramel Sauce
Makes lib g oz/jog g
Makes 12 servings
2V* o z /6 4 g hazelnuts
2 1/t o z / 6 4 g sugar
12 o z/3 4 0 g milk chocolate, finely chopped
Pinch salt
V 2 o z/2 41 g corn flakes
vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 o z/5 7 g water
1 . Place the hazelnuts and sugar in a food processor
5 o z/1 4 2 g corn syrup
and grind until the mixture climbs the walls of the

bowl. Scrape down the walls and continue to grind.
o z/2 8 g butter, cubed
Repeat this process at least three times, until a

smooth-looking paste forms.
2 . Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl over simmering

water. Once the chocolate is completely melted, fold
in the corn flakes and the hazelnut-sugar mixture.
3 . Spread the mixture thinly on a parchment-lined

sheet pan and store in a closed container at room
temperature. Reheat for service as needed.
1 . Combine the cream, vanilla bean pod and seeds, and

salt. Heat to a simmer over medium heat, cover and
Corn Flake Crunch
allow to steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla

bean pod and reserve.
2 . Combine the sugar and water in a pot and bring to a

simmer over medium-high heat.
3 . Add the corn syrup and continue to cook without

stirring until the mixture is a medium caramel color,
Chocolate Sauce
Makes 12 servings
5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r
8 o z /2 2 7 g w a te r
2 'A
o z /6 4
g corn syrup
about 7 minutes.
4 . Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.

Slowly whisk in the cream mixture.
5 . Allow to cool slightly before transferring to a serving

container.
6 . For longer storage, place in an airtight container and
refrigerate. Warm the sauce before use.
2 o z/5 7 g cocoa powder

8
o z /2 2 7 g bittersw eet chocolate, finely chopped
1 . Combine the sugar, water, and syrup in a heavybottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Remove from the heat.
2 . Place the cocoa in a heatproof bowl and add enough

of the hot syrup to make a paste, stirring until
smooth. Gradually add the remaining syrup and mix
until fully incorporated.
3 . Add the chocolate and blend until fully incorporated.

4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer. Store
the sauce in an airtight container until needed for
service.
c h a p te r 36 P LA TE D DESSERTS
1159
Chocolate Pate a Choux
Chocolate Straws
Makes
Yield:
12
servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
12
straws
12 o z/3 4 0 g chocolate, melted, tempered
8 o z/2 2 7 g water
1 . Spread tempered chocolate on a marble surface no

wider than the width of the tool you will be using to
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
form the straws, or, when the chocolate is somewhat
61/2 o z/1 8 4 g bread flour
set, use the tip of a paring knife to score the choco
V / 2 o z/4 3 g cocoa powder
late into narrow strips. Let the chocolate set briefly.
12V2 o z /3 5 4 g eggs (6 eggs)
2 . Using the same motion as described above, scrape

the chocolate into straws. It is important to scrape
1 . Bring the milk, water, butter, and salt to a boil in a

saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat
and add all the flour and cocoa powder at once. Re
turn to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly,
until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the
pan, about 3 minutes.
2 . Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer

and beat briefly on medium speed with a paddle.
Add 2 eggs at a time, beating until smooth after each
addition.
3 . Place the dough into a piping bag with a no. 5 round

tip. Pipe into bulbs 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter onto a
parchment-lined baking sheet.
4 . Bake at 36oF/i82C until cracks form in the pastry,

about 50 minutes.
5 . Allow the pastries to cool to room temperature.

6 . Slice off the top third of each of the baked pastries
and reserve the tops and the bottoms to be filled. If
storing for later use, the pastry should not be sliced
and may be stored in an airtight container at room
temperature or frozen for longer storage.
1160
the chocolate with a motion directly parallel to the

length of the strip; otherwise, the straws will curl
into each other and be difficult to separate.
ppendix
Approximate Soaking and Cooking Times for
Selected Dried Legumes
TYPE
SOAKING TIME
COOKINGTIME
AD ZU KI BEANS
4 hours
1 hour
BLACK BEANS
4 hours
I V 2 hours
BLACK-EYED PEAS*
1 hour
CHICKPEAS
4 hours
2 to 2 V i hours
FAVA BEANS
12 hours
3 hours
GREAT NORTHERN BEANS
4 hours
1 hour
KIDNEY BEANS (RED OR W HITE)
4 hours
1 hour
LEN TILS*
3 0 to 40 m inutes
LIM A BEANS
4 hours
1 to I V 2 hours
MUNGBEANS
4 hours
1 hour
NAVY BEANS
4 hours
2 hours
PEAS, SPLIT*
30 m in utes
PEAS, WHOLE
4 hours
40 m inutes
PIGEON PEAS*
30 m inutes
PINK BEANS
4 hours
1 hour
PINTO BEANS
4 hours
1 to I V 2 hours
SOYBEANS
12 hours
3 to 3Vz hours
*Soaking is not necessary.
AP P E N D IX
ll6 l
Cooking Ratios and Times fo r Selected Pasta and Grains

TYPE
RATIO OF GRAIN TO
LIQUID (CUPS)
APPROXIMATE
YIELD (CUPS)
COOKINGTIME
BARLEY, PEARLED
1:2
35 to 45 m inutes
BARLEY GROATS
1 :2 V 2
50 m in u te s to 1 hour
BUCKWHEAT GROATS (KASHA)
L I 1/? to 2
12 to 2 0 m in utes
couscous
l : l lA to I V 2
lY 2 t o 2
5 to 10 m in utes
HOMINY, W HOLE*
1:2 V i
2 V i t o 3 hours
H O M IN Y GRITS
1:4
25 m in utes
M ILLET
1:2
30 to 35 m in utes
OAT GROATS
1:2
45 m in u te s to 1 hour
POLENTA, FIRM
1:4
35 to 45 m in utes
POLENTA, SOFT
1:5
35 to 45 m in utes
RICE, ARBORIO (FOR RISOTTO)
1:3
18 to 2 2 m in utes
RICE, BASMATI
1-.1V2
2 5 m in utes
RICE, CAROLINA
l- .V A
2 5 to 30 m in utes
RICE, CONVERTED
1 :2
18 to 20 m inutes
RICE,JASM INE
1:1 V i
2 5 m in utes
RICE, LONG-GRAIN, BROWN
1:3
40 m in utes
RICE, LONG-GRAIN, W HITE
1:1 V i
12 to 15 m in utes
RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, BROWN
1:2 V 2
30 to 35 m inutes
RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, W HITE
1:1 to I V 2
20 to 30 m in utes
RICE,W ILD
1:4
40 to 45 m inutes
RICE, W ILD, PECAN
l- .V A
2 0 m in utes
WHEAT BERRIES
1:3
1 hour
WHEAT, BULGUR, SOAKED*
1:4
2 hours
WHEAT, BULGUR, PILAF*
1:2 V i
15 to 20 m in utes
WHEAT, CRACKED
1:2
20 m in utes
+Grain should be soaked b riefly in tepid water, then drained before it is steamed.
+Grain should be soaked overnight in cold water, then drained before it is cooked.
Grain may be cooked by covering it w ith boiling water and soaking fo r 2 hours, or by the pila f cooking method.
1162
A P P E N D IX
Weight Measure Conversions

U.S.
METRIC
V i OUNCE
7 gram s
V 2 OUNCE
14 gram s
1 OUNCE
2 8 .3 5 gram s
4 OUNCES
1 1 3 gram s
8 OUNCES (V 2 POUND)
2 2 7 gram s
16 OUNCES (1 POUND)
4 5 4 gram s
32 OUNCES (2 POUNDS)
9 0 7 gram s
4 0 OUNCES (2 V 2 POUNDS)
1 .1 3 4 kilo g ra m s
Volume Measure Conversions

U.S.
METRIC
1 TEASPOON
5 m illilite rs
1 TABLESPOON
15 m illilite r s
1 FLUID OUNCE (2 TABLESPOONS)
3 0 m illilite r s
2 FLUID OUNCES [lA CUP)
6 0 m illilite rs
8 FLUID OUNCES (1 CUP)
2 4 0 m illilite rs
16 FLUID OUNCES (1 PINT)
4 8 0 m illilite rs
32 FLUID OUNCES (1 QUART)
9 6 0 m illilite r s (0.95 lite r)
1 2 8 FLUID OUNCES (1 GALLON)
3 .8 4 lite rs
These measurements are exact. For ease o f use in the kitchen, the measurements in the recipes
are rounded to the nearest whole number.
AP PE N D IX
1163
Temperature Conversions
DEGREES CELSIUS (C)*
32
0
O
I
-J^
O
O
60
O
O
LO
i- H
DEGREES FAHRENHEIT (F)
66
16 0
71
17 0
77
212
100
275
135
300
14 9
325
16 3
350
17 7
375
19 1
400
204
425
218
450
232
475
246
500
260
^Celsius temperatures have been rounded.
Common Unit Conversions
1164
U.S. MEASURE
VOLUME
VOLUME (FLUID OUNCES)
1 POUND
16 ounces (w e igh t)
Varies by p ro d u c t
1 GALLON
4 q u a rts
1 2 8 flu id ounces
1 QUART
2 p in ts
3 2 flu id ounces
1 PINT
2 cups
16 flu id ounces
1 CUP
16 ta b le sp o o n s
8 flu id ounces
1 TABLESPOON
3 te a sp o o n s
V 2 flu id ounce
A P P E N D IX
Information, Hints, and Tips fo r Calculations

1 ga llo n = 4 q u a rts = 8 p in ts = 16 cups (8 flu id ounces pe r cup) = 1 2 8 flu id ounces
1 f if t h b o ttle = a p p ro x im a te ly I V 2 p in ts o r e x a c tly 2 5 .6 flu id ounces
1 m ea surin g cup holds 8 flu id ounces (a c o ffe e cup ge n e ra lly holds 6 flu id ounces)
1 egg w h ite = 2 flu id ounces (average)
1 lem on = 1 to V-A flu id ounces ju ic e
1 orange = 3 to 3 lA flu id ounces ju ice
to convert ounces and pounds to grams:

M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 ; m u ltip ly pounds by 4 5 3 .5 9
to convert Fahrenheit to Celsius:

( F - 3 2 ) / 1 . 8 = C
to convert ounces and pounds to grams:

M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e gram s; d ivid e pounds by 2.2 to d e te rm in e
kilo g ra m s
to convert grams to ounces or pounds:

D ivide gram s by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e ounces; d ivid e gram s by 4 5 3 .5 9 to d e te rm in e
pounds
to convert fluid ounces to milliliters:

M u ltip ly flu id ounces by 3 0 to d e te rm in e m illilite rs
to convert milliliters to fluid ounces:

D ivide m illilite rs by 3 0 to d e te rm in e flu id ounces
metric prefixes
kilo = 1,0 00
he cto = 100
deka = 10
deci = 1 /1 0
ce n ti = 1 /1 0 0
m illi = 1 /1 0 0 0
converting to common unit of measure:

To c o n v e rt m ea sure m ents to a com m on u n it (by w e ig h t o r volum e), use th e c h a rt on
th e fo llo w in g page. This in fo rm a tio n is used b o th to c o n v e rt scaled m easurem ents
in to p ra c tic a l and e a sy-to -u se re cip e m easures and to d e te rm in e costs.
A P PE N D IX
11
Weights and Measures Equivalents

volum e
D ash/pinch
less than Vs tea spoo n
3 tea spoo ns
1 ta b le sp o o n (V2 flu id ounce)
Vb cup (1 flu id ounce)
4 ta b le s p o o n s
V 4 cup (2 flu id ounces)
5 lA ta b le sp o o n s
V 3 cup (2 2/3 flu id ounces)
V2 cup (4 flu id ounces)
1 0 2/3 ta b le sp o o n s
2/3 cup (5V3 flu id ounces)
3/4 c u p (6 flu id ounces)
Vb cup (7 flu id ounces)
1 cup
1 giU
5 flu id ounces
1 cup
8 flu id ounces (2 4 0 m illilite rs )
2 cups
1 p in t (4 8 0 m illilite rs )
2 p in ts
1 q u a rt (9 6 0 m illilite rs ; approx. 1 lite r)
4 q u a rts
1 g a llo n (3.84 lite rs )
8 qu arts
1 peck (7.68 lite rs )
4 pecks
1 bushel (31 lite rs )
w eight
1166
1 ounce
2 8 .3 5 gram s (round to 28)
16 ounces
1 pound (4 5 3 .5 9 gram s, round to 4 5 4)
1 kilogra m
2.2 pounds
A P P E N D IX
glossary
otherw ise special, served when the guests in a restaurant
ABALONE: A mollusk w ith a single shell approxim ately 6 in /1 5
cm long and a large, edible adductor muscle. Abalones are
generally cut and pounded into steaks before being sauteed
or g rille d and have a chewy te x tu re w ith a mild flavor.
ABOYEUR: Expediter or announcer; a sta tio n in the kitchen b ri
gade system. The aboyeur accepts orders fro m the dining
room, relays them to the appropriate sta tio ns o f the kitchen,
and checks each plate before it leaves the kitchen.
ACID: A substance th a t te s ts lower than 7 on the pH scale. Acids
are seated. The amuse is n o t listed on a menu and is included

in the price o f an entree.
ANAEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t do not require oxygen to
function.
ANGEL FOOD CAKE: A type o f sponge cake made w ith o u t egg
yolks or other fa ts. Beaten egg whites give it its light and airy
structu re . Typically baked in a tube pan.
ANTIOXIDANTS: N aturally occurring substances th a t retard the
breakdown o f tissues in the presence o f oxygen. May be
have a sour or sharp flavor. A cid ity occurs naturally in many
added to fo o d during processing or may occur naturally. Help
foods, including citru s juice, vinegar, wine, and sour m ilk
to prevent food fro m becoming rancid or discolored due to
products. Acids act as tenderizers in marinades, helping to

break down connective tissues and cell walls.
ADULTERATED FOOD: Food th a t has been contam inated to the
p o in t th a t it is considered u n fit fo r human consumption.
AEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t require the presence o f oxy
gen to function.
AIOLI: Garlic mayonnaise, o fte n used as a condim ent w ith fish
and meat. In Italian, allio li; in Spanish, aliolio.
A LA CARTE: A menu fro m which the patron makes individual
oxidation.
ANTIPASTO: L iterally, before the meal. Typically, a p la tte r o f
hot or cold hors d'oeuvre th a t may include meats, olives,
cheeses, and vegetables.
APERITIF: A lig h t alcoholic beverage consumed before the meal
to stim ulate the appetite.
APPAREIL: A prepared m ixture o f ingredients used alone or in
another preparation.
APPETIZER: L ight food served before a meal or as the fir s t
selections in various menu categories; each item is priced
course o f a meal. May be hot or cold, plated or served as
separately.
fin g e r food.
A LANGLAISE: French te rm fo r foods th a t have been prepared "in

the English way. Refers to foods th a t have been breaded and
frie d , or boiled, or poached.
ALBUMEN: The egg white. Makes up about 70 percent o f the egg
and contains m ost o f the pro te in in the egg.
AL DENTE: L iterally, "to the to o th"; refe rs to an item, such as
pasta or vegetables, cooked u n til it is te n de r but s till firm ,
not soft.
ALKALI: A substance th a t te s ts a t higher than 7 on the pH scale.
Alkalis are som etim es described as having a slig h tly soapy
flavor. Can be used to balance acids. Olives and baking soda
are some o f the fe w alkaline foods.
ALLUMETTE: Vegetable cut, usually re fe rrin g to potatoes cut
into pieces the size and shape o f m atchsticks, Ve in by Vs in
by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm. Also called julienne.
AMANDINE: Garnished w ith almonds.
AMINO ACIDS: The building blocks o f proteins. O f the 20 amino
AQUACULTURE: The farm raising o f fish or shellfish in natural or

co n tro lle d marine tanks or ponds.
ARBORIO: A high-starch short-grain rice tra d itio n a lly used in the
p reparation o f riso tto .
AROMATICS: Ingredients such as herbs, spices, vegetables, c it
rus fru its , wines, and vinegars used to enhance the fla vo r and
fragrance o f food.
AROMATIZED WINE: F o rtifie d wine infused w ith any o f a wide
va rie ty o f arom atic plants or b itte r herbs, roots, bark, or
other plant pa rts (e.g., verm outh).
ARROWROOT: A powdered starch made fro m the ro o t o f a tro p i
cal plant o f the same name. Used p rim arily as a thickener.
Remains clear when cooked.
ASPIC: A clear je lly made from stock (or occasionally fr u it or
vegetable juice) thickened w ith gelatin. Used to coat foods
or cubed and used as a garnish.
AS-PURCHASED (AP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item as received
acids in the human diet, 9 are called "essential" because
fro m the supplier before trim m in g or oth er preparation (as
they cannot be produced by the body and m ust be supplied
opposed to e d ib le -p o rtion [EP] weight).
through a person's diet.

AMUSE-GUEULE: French fo r "appetizer." Chefs tasting: a small
po rtio n (1 or 2 bites) o f som ething exotic, unusual, or
G LO S S A R Y
1167
BAVARIAN CREAM, BAVAROIS: A mousse-like dessert made
BACTERIA: M icroscopic organisms. Some have beneficial prop

erties; others can cause food-borne illnesses when foods
contam inated w ith them are ingested.
BAGUETTE: A loaf o f bread o f French origin, made w ith 12 to
from vanilla sauce fla vo re d w ith a fr u it puree or juice, lig h t

ened w ith whipped cream, and stabilized w ith gelatin.
BEARNAISE: A classic b u tte r emulsion, sim ilar to hollandaise,
made w ith egg yolks, a reduction o f w hite wine, shallots,
16 o z/3 40 to 4 54 g o f dough, shaped into a long, skinny
and tarragon. Also, b u tte r finished w ith tarragon and
loaf th a t ranges fro m 2 to 3 in /5 to 8 cm in diam eter and
chervil.
18 to 24 in /4 6 to 61 cm in length. The dough, made o f flour,
BECHAMEL: A w h ite sauce made o f m ilk thickened w ith a pale
water, salt, and yeast, yields a paper-thin crisp crust and a
roux and flavored w ith w h ite mirepoix. One o f the "grand
light, airy crumb.
sauces.
BAIN-MARIE: The French te rm fo r a w a te r bath used to cook

fo o ds g ently by surrounding the cooking vessel w ith sim
m ering water. Also, a set o f cylindrical nesting inserts used
to hold foods in a w a te r bath or, w ith a single, long handle,
used as a double boiler. Also, steam table inserts.
BAKE: To cook food by surrounding it w ith dry heat in a closed
environm ent, as in an oven.
BAKE BLIND: To p a rtia lly or com pletely bake an unfilled pastry
crust by lining it w ith parchm ent and fillin g w ith weights
th a t are removed during or a fte r baking.
BAKING POWDER: A chemical leavener made w ith an alkaline
and an acidic ingredient, m ost commonly sodium bicar
bonate (baking soda) and cream o f ta rta r. When exposed
to liquid, it produces carbon dioxide gas, which leavens
BENCH-PROOF: In yeast dough production, to allow dough to

rise a fte r it has been panned and ju s t before it is baked.
BEURRE BLANC: L iterally, "w hite butter." A classic em ulsified
sauce made w ith a reduction o f w h ite wine and shallots,
thickened w ith whole b u tte r and possibly finished w ith
fresh herbs or o th er seasonings.
BEURRE FONDU: M elted butter.
BEURRE MANIE: L iterally, kneaded butter. A m ixture o f equal
parts by w eight o f whole b u tte r and flour, used to thicken
gravies and sauces.
BEURRE NOIR: Literally, "black butter." B u tte r th a t has been
cooked to a very dark brown or nearly black. Also, a sauce
made w ith browned butter, vinegar, chopped parsley, and
capers, usually served w ith fish.
doughs and ba tters. Double-acting baking powder contains

ingredients th a t produce tw o leavening reactions: one upon
exposure to liquid, the second when heated.
BEURRE NOISETTE: Lite ra lly,"h a ze ln ut butter, meaning brown

butter. Whole b u tte r th a t has been heated u n til browned to
a hazelnut color.
BAKING SODA: Sodium bicarbonate, a leavening agent th a t,

when combined w ith an acidic ingredient and m oisture,
releases carbon dioxide gas and leavens baked goods.
BARBECUE: To cook food by g rillin g it over a wood or charcoal
fire . O ften a marinade or sauce is brushed on the item dur
ing cooking. Also, m eat cooked in th is way.
BARD: To cover a naturally lean m eat w ith slabs or strip s o f fa t
such as bacon or fa tb ack th a t baste it during roasting or
braising. The fa t is usually tie d on w ith butchers twine.
BARQUETTE: A boat-shaped ta r t or ta rtle t, which may have a
sweet or savory fillin g .
BINDER: An ingredient or appareil used to thicken a sauce or

hold to g e th e r another m ixture o f ingredients.
BISQUE: A soup based on crustaceans or a vegetable puree. It
is classically thickened w ith rice and usually finished w ith
cream.
BIVALVE: A mollusk w ith tw o hinged shells. Examples are clams,
scallops, oysters, and mussels.
BLANC: A preparation containing water, flour, onion, cloves,
a bouquet garni, salt, and lemon juice. Used to cook veg
etables such as mushrooms, celeriac, salsify, or cauliflow er
to keep them white.
BASTE: To m oisten fo o d during cooking w ith pan drippings,

sauce, or oth er liquid. Basting prevents fo o d from drying
out.
BLANCH: To cook an item b rie fly in boiling w a te r or hot fa t

before fin ish in g or sto rin g it. Blanching preserves the color,
lessens strong flavors, and aids in rem oving the peels of
BATCH COOKING: A cooking technique in which a p p ro p ri
some fru its and vegetables.
ately sized quantities o f fo o d are prepared several tim es

throughout a service period so th a t a fresh supply o f
cooked item s is always available.
BLANQUETTE: A w h ite stew, usually o f veal but sometim es o f

chicken or lamb w ith w h ite onions and mushrooms. It is
served w ith a sauce th a t has been thickened w ith a liaison.
BAT0N/BAT0NNET: Items cut into pieces somewhat larger

than a llum ette or julienne; V4 in by V4 in by 1 to 2 in/ 6 mm
by 6 mm by 3 to 5 cm. French fo r "s tick or small stick.
BLEND: A m ixture o f tw o or more fla vo rs combined to achieve a

p a rticu la r fla vo r or quality. Also, to mix tw o or more ingre
dients to g e th e r un til combined.
BATTER: A m ixture o f flo u r and liquid, som etim es w ith the in

clusion o f o ther ingredients. B atters vary in thickness but
are generally sem iliquid and th in n er than doughs. Used in
such preparations as cakes, quick breads, pancakes, and
BLINI: A silver do lla r-size yeast-raised buckwheat pancake

o riginating in Russia.
BLOOM: To hydrate gelatin in liquid before dissolving. Also, the
crepes. Also, a liquid m ixture used to coat foods before
lig h t gray film on the skin o f apples, blueberries, grapes,
deep frying.
and prunes. Also, streaks o f w h ite /g ra y fa t or sugar th a t

appear on solid, untem pered chocolate.
1168
G LO S S A R Y
BOIL: To cook fo o d by fu lly im m ersing it in liquid a t the boiling
BROWN STOCK: An amber liquid produced by simmering
point (212F/100C).
browned bones and m eat (usually veal or beef) w ith veg

etables and arom atics (including caramelized m irepoix and
BORSCHT: A soup origina tin g in Russia and Poland, made from
to m a to puree).
fresh beets and garnished w ith sour cream. May include an

assortm ent o f vegetables and /o r meat, and may be served
BRUISE: To p a rtia lly crush a fo o d item in order to release its
hot or cold.
BOTULISM: A food-borne illness caused by toxins produced by
flavor.
BRUNOISE: A dice cut o f V8-in/3-m m cubes. For brunoise cut,
the anaerobic bacterium C lostridium botulinum .
item s are fir s t cut in julienne, then cut crosswise. For fine
brunoise, a V l6 -in /1 .50 -m m cube, cut item s fir s t in fine
BOUCHER: French fo r "butcher."
julienne.
BOUILLABAISSE: A hearty fish and shellfish stew flavored w ith
tom atoes, onions, garlic, w h ite wine, and saffron. A tra d i
BUTCHER: A chef or purveyor who is responsible fo r breaking

down meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. In the brigade
tio n a l specialty o f M arseilles, France.
system, the butcher may also be responsible fo r breading
BOUILLON: French fo r"b ro th .
m eat and fish item s and o ther mise en place operations
BOULANGER: Baker, sp e cifica lly o f breads and o ther unsweet

ened doughs.
involving meat.
BUTTER: A sem isolid fa t made by churning cream; must contain
BOUQUET GARNI: A small bundle o f herbs tie d w ith string.

Used to fla v o r stocks, braises, and o ther preparations.
a t least 80 percent m ilk fa t.

BUTTERCREAM: An icing made o f butter, sugar, and eggs or
Usually contains bay leaf, parsley, thyme, and possibly
custard, used to garnish cakes and pastries. The fo u r types
o th er arom atics wrapped in leek leaves.

BRAISE: To cook a food, usually meat, by searing in fa t, then
are Italian, Swiss, French, and German.

BUTTERFLYTo cut an item (usually m eat or seafood) and open
sim m ering slowly a t a low tem perature in a small amount o f
o ut the edges like a book or the wings o f a b u tte rfly.
sto ck or another liquid (usually halfway up the m eat item )

in a covered vessel. The cooking liquid is then reduced and
BUTTERMILK: A dairy beverage w ith a slig h tly sour fla vo r sim i

lar to th a t o f yogurt. T raditionally the liquid by-product o f
used as the base o f a sauce.
b u tte r churning, now usually made by culturing skim milk.

BRAN: The ou ter layer o f a cereal grain; the p a rt highest in fiber.
BRANDY: S p irit made by d is tillin g wine or the fe rm ented mash
o f fru it. May be aged in oak barrels.
c
CAJUN: A hearty cuisine based on French and southern in flu
BRASIER/BRAZIER: A pan designed sp e cifica lly fo r braising

th a t usually has tw o handles and a tig h t-fittin g lid. O ften
round but may be square or rectangular. Also called a
ences; signature ingredients include spices, dark roux,

pork fa t, file powder, green peppers, onions, and celery.
Jambalaya is a tra d itio n a l Cajun dish.
rondeau.
CALORIE: A unit o f measure o f food energy. It is the amount o f
BREAD: A p roduct made o f flour, sugar, shortening, salt, and
liquid, leavened by the action o f yeast. Also, to coat food
energy needed to raise the tem perature o f 1 kilogram o f

w a te r by 1C.
w ith flour, eggs, and crumbs before fry in g or baking.

CANADIAN BACON: Smoked eye o f the pork loin. Referred to
BRIGADE SYSTEM: The kitchen organization system in stitu te d
by G eorges-Auguste Escoffier. Each position has a sta tio n
as peameal or back bacon in Canada, Canadian bacon is

leaner than slab bacon and purchased precooked.
and w ell-defined responsibilities.

CANAPE: An hors d'oeuvre consisting o f a small piece o f bread
BRINE: A solution o f salt, water, and seasonings, used to pre
serve or m oisten foods.
BRIOCHE: A rich yeast dough, tra d itio n a lly baked in a flu te d
pan, w ith a d istin ctive to p k n o t o f dough.
BRISKET: A cut o f be e f fro m the lower forequarter, best suited
fo r long-cooking m ethods such as braising. Corned beef is
cured beef brisket.
BROIL: To cook fo o d by means o f a radiant heat source placed
above it.
BROILER: The piece o f equipm ent used to broil foods.
BROTH: A fla v o rfu l, arom atic liquid made by sim m ering w ater
or stock w ith meat, vegetables, and /o r spices and herbs.
BROWN SAUCE: A sauce made fro m a brown stock and arom at
ics and thickened by roux, a pure starch slurry, and /o r a
reduction; includes sauce espagnole, demi-glace, jus de
or to a st, o fte n cut in a decorative shape, garnished w ith a

savory spread or topping.
CARAMELIZATION:The process o f browning sugar in the pres
ence o f heat. The caram elization o f sugar occurs between
320 and 3 6 0 F /1 6 0 and 182C.
CARBOHYDRATE: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body
as a source o f energy. Types are simple (sugars) and com
plex (starches and fibers).
CARBON DIOXIDE: A colorless, tasteless, edible gas obtained
through fe rm e n ta tio n or fro m the com bination o f soda and
acid, which acts to leaven baked goods.
CARRYOVER COOKING: The heat retained in cooked foods
th a t allows them to continue cooking even a fte r removal
fro m the cooking medium. Especially im p orta n t to roasted
foods.
veau lie, and pan sauces.
G LO S S A R Y
1169
CASING: A syn th etic or natural membrane (if natural, usu
CHEF'S KNIFE: An all-purpose knife used fo r chopping, slicing,
ally pig or sheep intestines) used to enclose sausage
and mincing; its blade is usually between 8 and 14 in/20
forcem eat.
and 36 cm long.
CASSEROLE: A lidded cooking vessel, used in the oven; usually

round w ith tw o handles. Also, fo o d cooked in a casserole,
o fte n bound w ith a sauce and topped w ith cheese or bread
crumbs.
CASSOULET: A stew o f w hite beans baked w ith pork or other
meats, duck or goose co n fit, and seasonings.
CAUL FAT: A fa tty membrane fro m the abdominal cavity o f a pig
or sheep, resem bling fine netting; used to bard roasts and
pates and to encase sausage forcem eat.
CELLULOSE: A complex carbohydrate; the main structu ra l com
ponent o f plant cells.
CEPHALOPOD: Marine creatures whose te n tacle s and arms are
attached d ire c tly to th e ir heads, such as squid and octopus.
CHAFING DISH: A m etal dish w ith a heating unit (flam e or elec
tric), used to keep foods warm and to cook foods tableside
or during b u ffe t service.
CHAMPAGNE: A sparkling w h ite wine produced in the
Champagne region o f France using three grape varieties:
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The term is
som etim es in co rre ctly applied to o ther sparkling wines.
CHARCUTERIE:The preparation o f pork and o ther meat
items, such as hams, terrines, sausages, pates, and other
forcem eats.
CHARCUTIERE:The person who prepares charcuterie items. A
la charcutiere, meaning in the style o f the butchers wife,"
refers to item s (usually grilled meat) th a t are served w ith
sauce R obert and finished w ith a julienne o f gherkins.
CHATEAUBRIAND: A cut o f meat from the th ick end o f the
tenderloin. Traditionally cut th ick and served w ith chateau
potatoes and bearnaise sauce.
CHAUD-FROID: Literally, "hot-cold." A food prepared hot but
served cold as p a rt o f a b u ffe t display, coated w ith brown
CHEFS POTATO: All-purpose p o tato w ith a thin, speckled skin

and waxy flesh. Used mainly fo r sauteing and boiling.
CHEMICAL LEAVENER: An ingredient such as baking soda or
com bination o f ingredients (baking powder) whose chemi
cal action produces carbon dioxide gas. Used to leaven
baked goods.
CHERRYSTONE: A medium-size (less than 3 in/ 8 cm across the
shell) hard-shell clam indigenous to the East Coast o f the
United States; may be served raw or cooked.
CHIFFON: A cake made by the foam ing method; contains a high
percentage o f eggs and sugar and relative ly little , if any,
fa t to produce a lig h t and airy cake.
CHIFFONADE: Fine shreds o f leafy vegetables or herbs; often
used as a garnish.
CHILE: The fr u it o f certain types o f capsicum peppers (not
related to black pepper), used fresh or dry as a seasoning.
Chiles come in many va rietie s (e.g., jalapeno, serrano, poblano) and range in degrees o f spiciness.
CHILI: A stewed dish o f beans and /o r meat, flavored w ith chili
powder.
CHILI POWDER: Ground or crushed dried chiles, o fte n w ith
other ground spices and herbs added.
CHINE: The backbone. A cut o f m eat th a t includes the back
bone. Also, to separate the backbone and ribs to fa c ilita te
carving.
CHINOIS: A conical sieve w ith fine wire mesh, used to strain
foods.
CHOLESTEROL: A substance found exclusively in animal prod
ucts such as meat, eggs, and cheese (dietary cholesterol)
or in the blood (serum cholesterol).
CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size. Also, a small
cut o f m eat including p a rt o f the rib.
or w hite sauce, then glazed w ith aspic.

CHOUCROUTE: Sauerkraut cooked w ith goose fa t, onions, ju n i
CHEESECLOTH: A light, fine mesh gauze used fo r straining
liquids and making sachets.
CHEF DE PARTIE: S tation chef. In the brigade system, these
are the line cook positions, such as saucier, grillardin, and
per berries, and w hite wine. Choucroute garni is sauerkraut

garnished w ith various meats.
CHOWDER: A th ick soup th a t may be made from a va rie ty o f
ingredients but usually contains potatoes.
so fo rth .
CIGUATERA TOXIN: A toxin found in certain fish (harmless to
CHEF DE RANG: F ront w aiter. The w a ite r responsible fo r prop
the fish) th a t causes illness in humans when eaten. The
erly set tables, proper delivery o f foods to a table, and
poisoning is caused by the fis h s d ie t and is not eradicated
m eeting the guests' needs. A dem i-chef de rang is a back
by cooking or freezing.
w a ite r or busboy.
CIOPPINO: A fish stew usually made w ith w hite wine and to m a
CHEF DE SALLE: Headwaiter. Responsible fo r service through
out the restaurant. May be covered by the m aitre d' or
toes, believed to have originated in Genoa and popularized

by Italian im m igrants in San Francisco.
captain.
CLARIFICATION:The process o f rem oving solid im purities from
CHEF DE SERVICE: D ire ctor o f service.
a liquid such as b u tte r or stock. Also, a m ixture o f ground
CHEF DE VIN: Wine steward. Responsible fo r purchasingthe
meat, egg whites, m irepoix, to m a to puree, herbs, and
restaurant's wine, helping guests make wine selections, and

se rving th e guests'w ine. Also known as the sommelier.
spices used to c la rify broth fo r consomme.

CLARIFIED BUTTER: B u tte r fro m which the m ilk solids and wa
te r have been removed, leaving pure b u tte rfa t. Has a higher
smoke p o in t than whole b u tte r but less b u tte r flavor.
1170
G LO S S A R Y
COAGULATION:The curdling or clum ping o f proteins, usually

due to the application o f heat or acid.
COARSE CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size.
Used fo r item s such as m irepoix, where appearance is not
im portant.
COCOA: The pods o f the cacao tree, processed to remove the
cocoa b u tte r and ground into powder. Used as a flavoring.
COCOTTE: Casserole. A cooking dish w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid
fo r braising or stewing. Also, a small ramekin used fo r
cooking eggs. En co co tte is o fte n interchangeable w ith en
casserole.
CODDLED EGGS: Eggs cooked b rie fly (about 30 seconds) in
sim m ering w a te r in th e ir shells or in ramekins or special
coddlers, ju s t u n til set.
COLANDER: A p e rfo ra te d bowl, w ith or w ith o u t a base or legs,
used to strain liquids or drain them fro m solids.
COLLAGEN: A fib ro u s pro te in found in the connective tissue
CONFISERIE: Confectionery or candy. A confiseur is a patissier

specializing in, and responsible for, the production o f can
dies and related item s such as p e tits fours.
CONFIT: M eat (usually goose, duck, or pork) cooked gently and
preserved in its own fa t.
CONSOMME: Broth th a t has been cla rifie d using a m ixture o f
ground meat, egg whites, and o ther ingredients th a t trap
im p uritie s to re su lt in a p e rfe ctly clear broth.
CONVECTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat is trans
m itte d through the circulation o f air or water.
CONVECTION OVEN: An oven th a t employs convection cur
rents by fo rcin g hot air through fans so it circulates around
food, cooking it quickly and evenly.
CONVERTED RICE: Rice th a t has been pressure-steam ed and
dried before m illing to remove surface starch and retain
nutrients. Also known as parboiled rice.
COQUILLES ST. JACQUES: Scallops. Also, a dish o f broiled scal
o f animals, used to make glue and gelatin. Breaks down
lops w ith a creamy wine sauce, gratineed and served in the
into gelatin when cooked in a m oist environm ent fo r an
shell.
extended period o f tim e.

COMBINATION METHOD: A cooking m ethod th a t involves the
application o f both dry and m oist heat to the main item
CORAL: L obster roe, which is red or coral-colored when cooked.

CORNICHON: A small, sour pickled cucumber. O ften an accom
panim ent to pates and smoked meats.
(e.g., m eats seared in fa t, then simmered in a sauce fo r

braising or stewing).
CORNSTARCH: A fin e w h ite powder milled from dried corn;

used prim a rily as a thickener fo r sauce and occasionally as
COMMIS: Apprentice. A cook who works under a chef de partie
an ingredient in batters.
to learn the sta tio n and its responsibilities.

COTTAGE CHEESE: A fresh cheese made from the drained curd
C0M MUNARD:The kitchen position responsible fo r preparing
o f soured cow's milk.
s ta ff meals.
COULIS: A th ick puree o f vegetables or fru it, served hot or cold.
COMPLETE PROTEIN: A fo o d source th a t provides all o f the es
sential amino acids in the co rre ct ratio so they can be used
T raditionally refe rs to the thickened juices o f cooked meat,

fish, or shellfish puree or certain th ick soups.
in the body fo r pro te in synthesis. May require more than

one ingredient (such as beans and rice together).
COUNTRY-STYLE: A term used to describe forcem eat th a t is

coarse in te xtu re , usually made from pork, pork fa t, liver,
COMPLEX CARBOHYDRATE: A large molecule made up o f long
and various garnishes.
chains o f sugar molecules. In food, these molecules are

found in starches and fiber.
COURT BOUILLON: L iterally, "short broth." An arom atic veg

etable b roth th a t usually includes an acidic ingredient such
COMPOSED SALAD: A salad in which the item s are carefully
as wine or vinegar; m ost commonly used fo r poaching fish.
arranged on a plate, rather than tossed together.

COUSCOUS: Pellets o f semolina or cracked wheat usually
COMPOTE: A dish o f fresh or dried fr u it cooked in syrup, fla
vored w ith spices or liqueur. Also, a type o f small dish.
COMPOUND BUTTER: B u tte r combined w ith herbs or other
seasonings. Usually used to sauce g rilled or broiled items,
cooked by steaming, tra d itio n a lly in a couscoussiere. Also,

the stew w ith which this grain is tra d itio n a lly served.
COUSCOUSSIERE: A set o f nesting pots, sim ilar to a steamer,
used to cook couscous.
vegetables, or steamed dessert puddings.

COUVERTURE: Fine sem isweet chocolate used fo r coating and
CONCASSER: To pound or chop coarsely. Concasse usually
refers to tom atoes th a t have been peeled, seeded, and
decorating, th a t is extrem ely glossy and smooth. Chocolate

containing a m inimum o f 32 percent cocoa butter.
chopped.
CREAM: The fa tty com ponent o f milk; available w ith various fa t
CONDIMENT: An arom atic m ixture, such as pickles, chutney,
and some sauces and relishes, th a t accompanies food.
Usually kept on the table thro u g h o u t service.
CONDUCTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n sfe r in which heat is
tra n s m itte d through another substance. In cooking, when
heat is tra n sm itte d to fo o d through a p o t or pan, oven
racks, or g rill rods.
contents. Also, a m ixing method fo r b a tte rs and doughs in

which the sugar and fa t are beaten to g eth e r until light and
flu ffy before the o th er ingredients are added.
CREAM CHEESE: S o ft unripened cheese derived from cow's
m ilk, which m ust contain 33 percent m ilk fa t and 55 per
cent or less m oisture. Used as a spread, a dip, in confec
tions, and in dressings.
G LO S S A R Y
1171
CREAM OF TARTAR: A salt o f ta rta ric acid used extensively in
CURD: The sem isolid po rtio n o f m ilk once it coagulates and
baking, found in wine barrels a fte r fe rm e n tatio n . Used to
separates. Also, a sweet, creamy, pudding-like preparation
give s ta b ility and volume in whipping egg whites. O ften as
made o f fr u it juice (typica lly citrus), sugar, eggs, and butter.
the acid component in baking powder.
CURE: To preserve a food by salting, smoking, pickling, and/or

drying.
CREAM PUFF: A pa stry made w ith pate a choux, fille d w ith

creme patissiere, and usually glazed. Also called a
CURING SALT: A m ixture o f 94 percent table salt (sodium chlo
p ro fite ro le .
ride) and 6 percent sodium n itrite , used to preserve meats.

Also known as tin te d curing m ixture or TCM.
CREAM SOUP: Traditionally, a soup based on a bechamel sauce.

Loosely, any soup finished w ith cream, a cream variant
CURRY: A m ixture o f spices, used p rim arily in Indian cuisine.
such as sour cream, or a liaison.
May include turm eric, coriander, cumin, cayenne or other

chiles, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, fennel, fenugreek, gin
CREME ANGLAISE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or

milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or
used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice
ger, and garlic. Also, a stew -like dish seasoned w ith curry.
CUSTARD: A m ixture o f milk, beaten egg, and possibly other
cream. Also known as vanilla sauce.
ingredients such as sweet or savory flavorings, cooked

w ith gentle heat, o fte n in a bain-marie, double boiler, or
CREME BROLEE: Literally, burnt cream" a baked custard
w a te r bath.
topped w ith sugar th a t is caramelized before service. The

caramelized sugar creates a dual-textured dessert w ith a
so ft, creamy custard and a b rittle sugar topping.
CREME FRAiCHE: Fleavy cream cultured to give it a th ick
d
DAILY VALUES (DV): Standard n u tritio n a l values developed
consistency and a slig h tly tangy flavor. Used in hot prepa
by the U.S. Food and Drug A d m in istra tio n fo r use on food
rations since it is less likely than sour cream or yogurt to
labels.
curdle when heated.

CREME PATISSIERE: Literally, "pastry cream." A stirre d custard
made w ith eggs, flo u r or o th e r starches, milk, sugar, and
flavorings, used to fill and garnish pastries or as the base
fo r souffles, creams, and mousses.
CREOLE: This sophisticated typ e o f cooking is a combination
o f French, Spanish, and A frican cuisines; signature ingre
dients include butter, cream, tom atoes, file powder, green
peppers, onions, and celery. Gumbo is a tra d itio n a l Creole
dish.
DANGER ZONE: The tem perature range from 41 to 135F/5

to 57C; the m ost favorable condition fo r rapid grow th o f
many pathogens.
DANISH PASTRY: A pastry o f rich yeast dough w ith a b u tte r
roll-in, possibly fille d w ith nuts, fru it, or o ther ingredients,
and iced.
DAUBE: A classic French stew o f meat, vegetables, and season
ings braised in red wine, tra d itio n a lly cooked in a daubiere,
a specialized casserole w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid and indenta
tions to hold h o t coals.
CREPE: A thin pancake made w ith egg b a tter; used in sweet and
savory preparations.
DEBEARD: To remove the shaggy, inedible fib e rs from a mussel.

These fib e rs anchor the mussel to its mooring.
CROISSANT: A pastry consisting o f a yeast dough w ith a b u tte r

roll-in, tra d itio n a lly form ed into a crescent shape.
CROSS CONTAMINATION:The transference o f disease-causing
DECK OVEN: An oven in which the heat source is located under

neath the deck or flo o r; food is placed d ire ctly on the deck
instead o f on a rack.
elem ents from one source to another through physical

contact.
CROUSTADE: A small, edible baked or frie d container fo r meat,
DEEP FRY: To cook fo o d by immersion in hot fa t; deep-fried

foods are o fte n coated w ith bread crumbs or b a tte r before
cooking.
chicken, or other m ixtures; usually made from pastry but

may be made fro m potatoes or pasta.
DEEP POACH: To cook fo o d gently in enough sim mering liquid

to com pletely submerge the food.
CROUTE, EN: Encased in a bread or pastry crust and baked.

DEGLAZE/DEGLACER:To use a liquid such as wine, water, or
CROUTON: A bread or pastry garnish, cut into bite-size pieces
and to a sted or sauteed u n til crisp.
CRUMB: A te rm used to describe the te xtu re o f baked goods;
fo r example, an item can be said to have a fine or coarse
crumb.
CRUSTACEAN: A class o f hard-shelled arthropods w ith elon
gated bodies, p rim arily aquatic, th a t include edible species
such as lobster, crab, shrimp, and crayfish.
CUISSON: Shallow poaching liquid, including stock, fum et, or
1 172
stock to dissolve food p articles and/or caramelized d rip

pings le ft in a pan a fte r roasting or sauteing. The resulting
mix then becomes the base fo r the accompanying sauce.
DEGREASE/DEGRAISSER:To skim the fa t o ff the surface o f a
liquid such as a stock or sauce.
DEMI-GLACE: Literally, half-glaze. A m ixture o f equal pro
portions o f brown stock and brown sauce th a t has been
reduced by half. One o f the "grand" sauces.
DEPOUILLAGE: Skim m ing the im p uritie s from the surface o f a
oth er liquid, th a t may be reduced and used as a base fo r
cooking liquid such as a stock or sauce. This action is sim
the poached item's sauce.
p lifie d by placing the p o t o ff center on the burner (convec
G LO S S A R Y
tion simmer) and rem oving im purities as they co lle ct a t one

side o f the pot.
DEVILING: Seasoning meat, poultry, or oth er fo o d w ith mus
tard, vinegar, and possibly oth er hot and spicy seasonings,
such as red pepper and Tabasco.
DICE:To cut ingredients into evenly sized small cubes (% in /6
mm fo r small, V 2 in /1 cm fo r medium, and
3/ 4 in / 2 cm fo r large are the standards).
DIE: The plate in a m eat grinder through which fo o d passes ju s t

before a blade cuts it. The size o f the die's opening d e te r
mines the fineness o f the grind.
DIGESTIF: A s p irit usually consumed a fte r dining as an aid to
digestion. Examples include brandy and cognac.
DIRECT HEAT: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat waves
ECLAIR: A long, thin baked shell o f pate a choux, fille d w ith

creme patissiere and glazed w ith chocolate fondant or
ganache.
EDIBLE-PORTION (EP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item a fte r
trim m in g and preparation (as opposed to the as-purchased
[APJ weight).
EGG WASH: A m ixture o f beaten eggs (whole eggs, yolks, or
w hites) and a liquid, usually m ilk or water, used to coat
baked goods to give them a sheen.
EMINCER:To cut an item , usually meat, into very thin slices.
EMULSION: A m ixture o f tw o or more liquids, one o f which
is a fa t or oil and the o ther o f which is w a te r based, so
th a t tin y globules o f one are suspended in the other.
radiate fro m a source (e.g., an open burner or g rill) and
This may involve the use o f stabilizers such as egg or
tra v e l d ire c tly to the item being heated w ith no conductor
m ustard. Emulsions may be tem porary, permanent, or
between heat source and food. Examples are grilling, b ro il
semiperm anent.
ing, and toasting. Also known as radiant heat.

DOCK: To cut the to p o f dough before baking to allow steam
ENDOSPERM: The largest po rtio n o f the inside o f the seed o f

a flo w e ring plant such as wheat; composed prim arily o f
to escape to co n tro l the expansion o f the dough a nd/or to
starch and protein. This is the po rtio n used p rim arily in
create a decorative e ffe c t.
m illed grain products.
DORE: Coated w ith egg yolk or cooked to a golden brown.

DRAWN: Describes a whole fish th a t has been g u tted but s till
has its head, fins, and ta il. Also refe rs to cla rifie d butter.
DREDGE: To coat fo o d w ith a dry ingredient such as flo u r or
bread crumbs p rio r to fry in g or sauteing.
DRESSED: Prepared fo r cooking. A dressed fish is g u tted and
scaled, and its head, ta il, and fin s are removed (also called
pan-dressed). Dressed p o u ltry is plucked, gutted, singed,
trim m ed, and trussed. Also, coated w ith dressing, as a
salad.
DRUM SIEVE: A sieve consisting o f a screen stretched across
a shallow cylinder o f wood or aluminum. Also known as a
tamis.
DRY CURE: A com bination o f salts and spices used to preserve
meats; o fte n used before sm oking to process meats and
forcem eats.
DRY SAUTE: To saute w ith o u t fa t, usually using a nonstick pan.
ENTRECOTE: Literally, "between the ribs. A very tender steak

cut fro m between the ninth and eleventh ribs o f beef.
ENTREMETIER: Vegetable ch e f/sta tio n .T h e position responsi
ble fo r hot appetizers and o fte n soups, vegetables, starch
es, and pastas: may also be responsible fo r egg dishes.
ESCALOPE: A scallop o f meat; th is cut o f a small, boneless
piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness is m ost often
sauteed.
ESPAGNOLE SAUCE: Literally, Spanish sauce." Brown sauce
made w ith brown stock, caramelized m irepoix, to m a to pu
ree, seasonings, and roux.
ESSENCE: A concentrated fla vo rin g extracted from an item,
usually by infusion or d istilla tio n . Includes item s such
as vanilla and o th er e xtracts, concentrated stocks, and
fum ets.
ESTOUFFADE: A French stew o f wine-m oistened pieces o f
meat. Also, a typ e o f rich brown stock based on pork knuck
le and veal and beef bones, o fte n used in braises.
DUMPLING: Any o f a number o f sm all s o ft dough or b a tte r

item s, which are steamed, poached, or simmered (possibly
on to p o f a stew), baked, pan frie d , or deep frie d . May be
fille d or plain.
DURUM: A very hard w heat ty p ica lly m illed into semolina, p ri
m arily used in making pasta.
ETHYLENE GAS: A gas e m itte d by various fru its and vegeta

bles, th a t speeds ripening, maturing, and eventually rotting.
ETOUFFEE: Literally, "smothered." Refers to fo o d cooked by a
m ethod sim ilar to braising, except th a t item s are cooked
w ith little or no added liquid in a pan w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid
(also etuver, a I'etuvee). Also, a Cajun dish made w ith a dark
DUST: To d is trib u te a film o f flour, sugar, cocoa powder, or o ther

such ingredients on pans or w ork surfaces, on a fo o d be
roux, crayfish, vegetables, and seasonings, served over a

bed o f w h ite rice.
fo re cooking, or on finished products as a garnish.

EVAPORATED MILK: Unsweetened canned milk from which 60
DUTCH OVEN: A ke ttle , usually o f cast iron, used fo r stewing
and braising on the stovetop or in the oven.
DUTCH PROCESS: A m ethod o f tre a tin g cocoa powder w ith an
alkali to reduce its acidity.
DUXELLES: An appareil o f fin e ly chopped mushrooms and shal
percent o f the w a te r has been removed before canning.

O ften used in custards and to create a creamy te xtu re in
food.
EXTRUDER: A machine used to shape dough. The dough is
pushed o u t through p e rfo ra te d plates rather than rolled.
lots sauteed g ently in butter. Used as a stu ffin g , garnish, or

as a fla vo rin g in soups and sauces.
GLOSSARY
1173
FOIE GRAS: The fa tte n e d liver o f a duck or goose th a t has been
FABRICATION: The butchering, cutting, and trim m in g o f meat,

poultry, fish, and game (large pieces or whole) into sm aller
cuts to prepare them to be cooked.
FACULTATIVE BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t can survive both w ith
and w ith o u t oxygen.
fo rce -fe d over a fo u r- to five-m onth period.

FOLD: To g ently combine ingredients (especially foams) so as
not to release trapped a ir bubbles. Also, to gently mix to
ge the r tw o item s, usually a light, airy m ixture w ith a denser
m ixture. Also, the m ethod o f turning, rolling, and layering
dough over on its e lf to produce a fla k y texture.
FARCE: Literally, "s tu ffin g " in French. A fo rce m e a t or stu ffin g .

FOND: The French te rm fo r stock. Also, the pan drippings re
FARINA: A fin e w heat meal th a t can be eaten as a breakfast
cereal when cooked in boiling water, used in puddings, or
maining a fte r sauteing or roasting food, o fte n deglazed

and used as a base fo r sauces.
used as a thickener.
FONDANT: A w h ite paste made fro m liquid (usually w ater or
FAT: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body to provide en
ergy. Fats carry fla vo r in fo o d and give a fe e lin g o f fullness.
FATBACK: Pork fa t from the back o f the pig, used prim a rily fo r
barding, and also to make lard and cracklings.
FERMENTATION: The process o f yeast acting to break down
corn syrup) and sugar, th a t has been dissolved, heated, and

agita te d during cooling. Used as a fillin g and glaze fo r pas
trie s and confections.
FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS: An illness in humans caused by the
consumption o f an adulterated food product. For an o f
sugars into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol, which is es
fic ia l d eterm ination th a t an outbreak o f food-borne illness
sential in bread leavening and beer, wine, and s p irit making.
has occurred, tw o or more people m ust have become ill
Also, the period o f rising in yeast doughs.

FIBER/DIETARY FIBER: The stru ctu ra l component o f plants,
necessary to the human diet. Indigestible. Also refe rre d to
as roughage.
FILE: A thickener made fro m ground dried sassafras leaves;
used p rim arily in gumbo.
FILET MIGNON:The expensive boneless cut o f beef fro m the
small end o f the tenderloin.
FILLET/FILET: A boneless cut o f meat, fish, or poultry.
a fte r eating the same food, and the outbreak m ust be con
firm e d by health o fficia ls.
FOOD COST: Cost o f all fo o d purchased to prepare item s fo r
sale in a restaurant.
FOOD MILL: A strain e r w ith a crank-operated curved blade,
used to puree s o ft foods while straining them.
FOOD PROCESSOR: A machine w ith interchangeable blades
and disks and a removable bowl and lid separate from the
m oto r housing. Can be used fo r a va rie ty o f tasks including
chopping, grinding, pureeing, em ulsifying, kneading, slicing,
FINES HERBES: A m ixture o f herbs, usually parsley, chervil,

tarragon, and chives. Generally added to the dish ju s t p rior
to serving, as they lose th e ir fla vo r quickly.
FIRST IN, FIRST OUT (FIFO): A fundam ental storage principle
based on stock ro ta tio n . Products are stored and used so
th a t the oldest product is always used firs t.
FISH POACHER: A long, narrow po t w ith stra ig h t sides and pos
sibly a p e rforated rack, used fo r poaching whole fish.
FIVE-SPICE POWDER: A m ixture o f equal parts ground cin
namon, clove, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechwan
peppercorns.
FLAT FISH: A type o f fish characterized by its fla t body and
having both eyes on one side o f its head (e.g., sole, plaice,
flounder, and halibut).
FLATTOP: A th ick plate o f cast iron or steel se t over the heat
source on a range; d iffu ses heat, m aking it more even than
an open burner.
FLEURONS: Garnishes made from lig h t p u ff pa stry cut into
oval, diamond, or crescent shapes and served w ith meat,
fish, or soup.
FLORENTINE, A LA: Dishes prepared in the style o f Florence,
Italy; denotes the use o f spinach and som etim es Mornay
sauce or cheese.
FOAMING MIXING METHOD: A method o f producing b a tters
in which the main stru ctu ra l com ponent is a m ixture o f
eggs (whole and /o r separated yolks and w hites) and sugar,
whipped to incorporate large q u a ntitie s o f air.
1174
G LO S S A R Y
shredding, and c u ttin g into julienne.

FORCEMEAT: An emulsion o f chopped or ground meat, fa t, and
a binder, used fo r pates, sausages, and oth er preparations.
The fo u r types are mousseline, straight, country-style, and
gratin.
FORK-TENDER: A degree o f doneness in braised foods and
vegetables; fo rk -te n d e r foods are easily pierced or cut by a
fo rk, or should slide readily fro m a fo rk when lifte d .
FORMULA: A recipe in which m easurements fo r each ingredi
ent are given as percentages o f the weight fo r the main
ingredient.
FORTIFIED WINE: Wine to which a sp irit, usually brandy, has
been added (e.g., Marsala, Madeira, port, or sherry).
FREE-RANGE: Refers to livestock th a t is raised unconfined.
FRENCH:To cut and scrape m eat from rib bones before
cooking.
FRICASSEE: A stew o f po u ltry or other w hite m eat w ith a w hite
sauce.
FRITTER: Sweet or savory fo o d coated or mixed into b a tte r and
deep frie d . Also called beignet.
FRITURIER: Fry ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all
frie d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position.
FRUCTOSE: A sim ple sugar found in fru its . Fructose is the
sw eetest simple sugar.
FUMET: A typ e o f stock in which the main fla vo rin g ingredient
GRAND SAUCE: Any o f several basic sauces used in the prepa
is allowed to cook in a lidded p o t w ith wine and arom atics.
ration o f many o th er sm all sauces. The grand sauces are
Fish fu m e t is the m ost common type.
demi-glace, veloute, bechamel, hollan-daise, and tom ato.

Also called m other" sauce.
GRATIN: A cheese or bread crumb topping browned in an oven

or under a salamander (au gratin, gratin de). Also refers to
GALANTINE: Boned m eat (usually poultry), s tu ffe d w ith fo rc e
a fo rce m e a t in which some portion o f the dom inant meat is
meat, rolled, poached, and served cold, usually coated w ith
sauteed and cooled before it is ground.
aspic.
GANACHE: A preparation o f chocolate and heavy cream, and
GRAVLAX: Raw salmon cured w ith salt, sugar, and fresh dill. A
dish o f Scandinavian origin, o fte n accompanied by mustard
som etim es butter, sugar, and o ther flavorings. Among o th
and d ill sauce.
er things, it is used as a sauce, glaze, and fillin g , or to make

confections. Can range fro m s o ft to hard, depending on the
GRIDDLE: A heavy m etal cooking surface, which may be fitte d

w ith handles, b u ilt into a stove, or heated by its own gas or
ratio o f chocolate to cream.
ele ctric elem ent. Cooking is done d ire ctly on the griddle.
GARBURE: A th ick vegetable soup, usually containing beans,

cabbage, and /o r potatoes.
GRILL: To cook fo o ds by a radiant heat source placed below the

food. Also, the piece o f equipm ent on which grillin g is done;
GARDE MANGER: Pantry ch e f/sta tio n . The position respon
may be fueled by gas, e le ctricity, charcoal, or wood.
sible fo r cold food preparation, including salads, a ppetiz

ers, and pates.
GRILLARDIN: G rill ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all

g rille d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position.
GARNI: Literally, "garnished. Used to describe dishes accompa

nied by vegetables and potatoes.
GRILL PAN: A s k ille t w ith ridges, used on the stovetop to simu

late grilling.
GARNISH: An edible decoration or accompanim ent to a dish or

item.
GAZPACHO: A cold soup made fro m vegetables, typ ica lly to m a
GRISSINI:Thin, crisp breadsticks.

GRISWOLD: A pot, sim ilar to a rondeau, made o f cast iron;
may have a single short handle rather than the usual loop
toes, cucumbers, peppers, and onions.
handles.
GELATIN: A protein-based substance found in animal bones and

connective tissue. When dissolved in hot liquid and then
GUMBO: A Creole so up/stew thickened w ith file or okra, fla

vored w ith a va rie ty o f m eats and fishes and dark roux.
cooled, it can be used as a thickener and stabilizer.
starch, in which the starch molecules swell to fo rm a n e t
work th a t trap s w a te r molecules.
HARICOT: L iterally, bean." Haricots verts are green beans.
GELATION: A phase in the process o f thickening a liquid w ith
GENOISE: A lig h t cake, made using the foam ing mixing method,
containing flour, sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla, and /o r other
flavorings.
GERM:The p o rtio n o f the seed o f flo w e ring plants, such as
HASH: Chopped, cooked meat, usually w ith p otatoes and/or

o ther vegetables, seasoned, bound w ith a sauce, and sau
teed. Also, to chop into small irregular pieces.
HAZARD ANALYSIS CRITICAL CONTROL POINT (HACCP):
wheat, th a t sprouts to fo rm a new plant; the embryo o f the
A m on ito rin g system used to track foods fro m the tim e
new plant.
th a t they are received un til they are served to consum
GHERKIN: A small pickled cucumber.

GIBLETS: Organs and o th er trim fro m poultry, including the
liver, heart, gizzard, and neck, used to fla vo r stocks and
soups.
GLACE: Reduced stock. Also, ice cream.
ers, to ensure th a t the foods are free from contam ination.

Standards and controls are established fo r tim e and te m
perature, as w ell as safe handling practices.
HEIMLICH MANEUVER: F irst aid fo r choking, involving the ap
plication o f sudden upward pressure on the upper abdomen
to fo rce a fo re ig n object fro m the windpipe.
GLACE: L iterally, "glazed or iced. Icing.

HIGH-RATIO CAKE: A cake in which the b a tte r includes a high
GLAZE: To give an item a shiny surface by brushing or o th e r
percentage o f sugar in relation to oth er ingredients.
wise coating it w ith sauce, aspic, icing, or another appareil.

For meat, to coat w ith sauce and then brown in an oven or
salamander.
HOLLANDAISE: A classic emulsion sauce made w ith a vinegar

reduction, egg yolks, and m elted butter, flavored w ith
lemon juice. One o f the grand" sauces.
GLUCOSE: A sim ple sugar found in honey, some fru its , and many
vegetables. It has about half the sweetness o f table sugar
and is the pre fe rre d source o f energy fo r the human body.
GLUTEN: A pro te in present in w heat flo u r th a t develops
through hydration and m ixing to fo rm elastic strands th a t
build structu re and aid in leavening.
HOLLOW-GROUND: A type o f knife blade made by fusing two

sheets o f m etal and beveling or flu tin g the edge.
HOMINY: Corn th a t has been m illed or tre a te d w ith a lye solu
tio n to remove the bran and germ. Ground hominy is known
as grits.
GLOSSARY
1175
HOMOGENIZATION: A process used to prevent the m ilk fa t

fro m separating o u t o f m ilk products. The liquid is forced
through an u ltra fin e mesh at high pressure, which breaks
up fa t globules and disperses them evenly throughout the
liquid.
HORS DOEUVRE: L ite ra lly,"o u tsid e the work." An appetizer.
HOTEL PAN: A rectangular m etal pan, in a number o f standard
sizes, w ith a lip th a t allows it to re st on a storage shelf or in
a steam table.
HYDROGENATION: The process in which hydrogen
atoms are added to an unsaturated fa t molecule, mak
ing it p a rtia lly or com pletely saturated and solid a t room
tem perature.
HYDROPONICS: A technique fo r growing vegetables in n u tri
ent-enriched w a te r rather than in soil.
HYGIENE: Conditions and practices follow ed to maintain
health, including sa nitation and personal cleanliness.
k
KASHA: Buckwheat groats th a t have been hulled, crushed, and
roasted; usually prepared by boiling.
KNEAD: To work or m ix a dough by hand to soften it to working
consistency, or to stretch yeasted doughs to expand th e ir
gluten.
KOSHER: Prepared in accordance w ith Jewish die ta ry laws.
KOSHER SALT: Pure, refined salt, also known as coarse salt or
pickling salt. Used fo r pickling because it does not contain
magnesium carbonate and thus does not cloud brine solu
tions. Also used to kosher m eats and poultry.
1
LACTOSE: The simple sugar found in milk. This disaccharide is
the least sweet o f the natural sugars.
LAMINATE: To fo ld and ro ll a dough to g eth e r w ith a roll-in fa t to
create a lte rn a tin g layers o f fa t and dough; used to create
p u ff pastry, Danish, and croissants.
LARD: Rendered pork fa t; used in pastry and fo r frying. Also,
INDUCTION BURNER: A typ e o f heating unit th a t relies on mag
to in se rt sm all strip s o f fa tb ack in to naturally lean meats
netic a ttra c tio n between the cooktop and m etals in the pot
before roasting or braising. The process is done using a
to generate the heat th a t cooks fo o ds in the pan. Reaction
larding needle.
tim e is sig n ifica n tly

fa s te r than w ith tra d itio n a l burners.
INFECTION: Contam ination by a disease-causing agent such as
a bacterium .
INFUSION: Steeping an arom atic or o th e r item in liquid to ex
tra c t its flavor. Also, the liquid resulting from th is process.
INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER: A th e rm o m e te r used to
measure the internal tem perature o f foods. The stem is
inserted in the food, producing an im m ediate tem perature
readout.
INTOXICATION: Poisoning; a sta te o f being ta in te d w ith toxins,
p a rticu la rly those produced by a m icroorganism th a t has
in fe cted food.
INVENTORY: An item ized lis t o f goods and equipm ent on hand,
to g e th e r w ith the estim ated w orth or cost.
INVERT SUGAR: A sugar th a t is a m ixture o f dextrose and fru c
tose, which w ill not easily crystallize. These sugars can oc
cur naturally or be created by boiling sucrose w ith an acid.
LARDON/LARDOON: A s trip o f fa t used fo r larding; may be sea

soned. Also, bacon th a t has been diced, blanched, and fried.
LEAVENER: Any ingredient or process th a t produces gas and
causes the rising o f baked goods. Can be chemical (baking
powder), mechanical (folding in air in whipped egg whites),
or biological (yeast).
LECITHIN: An e m u lsifier found in eggs and soybeans.
LEGUME:The seeds o f certain pod plants, including beans and
peas, which are eaten fo r th e ir earthy fla vo rs and high nu
tritio n a l value. Also, the French word fo r vegetable.
LI AISON: A m ixture o f egg yolks and cream used to thicken and
enrich sauces. Also loosely applied to any appareil used as
a thickener.
LIQUEUR: A s p irit fla vo re d w ith fru it, spices, nuts, herbs, and/
or seeds and usually sweetened. Also known as cordials,
liqueurs o fte n have a high alcohol content, a viscous body,
and a s lig h tly s ticky feel.
LITTLENECK: Small hard-shell clams, o fte n eaten raw on the
half shell; sm aller than a cherrystone clam (less than 2 in/5
cm in diameter).
JARDINIERE: A m ixture o f vegetables.
LOW-FAT MILK: M ilk containing less than 2 percent fa t.
JULIENNE: Vegetables, potatoes, or o ther item s cut into thin
LOX: Cold-smoked salt-cured salmon.
strips; Vs in by Vs in by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm
is standard. Fine julienne is V i 6 in by V i 6 in by 1 to 2 in/1.5
mm by 1.5 mm by 3 to 5 cm.
LOZENGE CUT: A knife cut in which fo o ds are cut into small

diamond shapes V>in by V iin by Vs in/1 cm by 1 cm by 3
mm thick.
JUS: Literally, juice. Refers to fr u it and vegetable juices as well

as juices fro m meats. Jus de viande is m eat gravy. M eat
served au jus is served w ith its own juice or a jus lie.
LYONNAISE: Food cooked in the style o f Lyons; Lyonnaise po

ta to e s are sauteed w ith onions and butter. Also refers to
a sauce made w ith onions and usually butter, w hite wine,
JUS LIE: M eat juice thickened lig h tly w ith a rro w ro ot or

cornstarch.
GLOSSARY
vinegar, and demi-glace.
fish, is dusted w ith flour, sauteed, and served w ith a sauce

MACAROON: Small cookie o f nut paste (typica lly almond or
coconut), sugar, and egg white.
MADEIRA: A Portuguese fo rtifie d wine, tre a te d w ith heat as it
ages to give it a d istin ctive fla v o r and brownish color.
MAILLARD REACTION: A complex browning reaction th a t re
sults in the p a rticu la r fla vo r and color o f fo o ds th a t do not
contain much sugar, including roasted meats. The reaction,
which involves carbohydrates and amino acids, is named
a fte r the French scie n tist who f ir s t discovered it. There are
low -tem perature and high-tem perature M aillard reactions;
the high-tem perature reaction s ta rts a t 310F/154C.
MAITRE DHOTEL: Dining room manager or food and beverage
manager, in fo rm a lly called maTtre d! This position oversees
o f beurre n oisette, lemon juice, and parsley.

MICROWAVE OVEN: A cooking device in which electrom agnetic
waves (sim ilar to radio waves) generated by a device called
a m agnetron penetrate fo o d and cause the w a te r m ol
ecules in it to oscillate. This rapid molecular m otion gener
ates heat th a t cooks the food.
MIE: The s o ft p a rt o f bread (not the crust); mie de pain is fresh
w h ite bread crumbs.
MILL: To separate grain in to germ /husk, bran, and endosperm,
and grind it into flo u r or meal.
MILLET: A small, round, glutenless grain. May be boiled or
ground into flour.
MINCE: To chop into very sm all pieces.
the dining room a n d /o r the fro n t- of-house s ta ff. Also, a

compound b u tte r fla vo re d w ith chopped parsley and lemon
juice.
MINERAL: An inorganic elem ent th a t is an essential component

o f the diet. Provides no energy and is th e re fo re referred to
as a noncaloric n utrient. The body cannot produce minerals;
MANDOLINE: A slicing device o f pla stic or stainless steel w ith
they m ust be obtained fro m the diet.
carbon steel blades. M ost models have blades th a t may be

adjusted to cut item s into various shapes and thicknesses.
MINESTRONE: A hearty vegetable soup; typ ica lly includes

dried beans and pasta.
MARBLING: The intram uscular fa t found in m eat th a t makes it

te n de r and juicy.
MINUTE,
ALA: L ite ra lly , at the minute." A restaurant produc
tio n approach in which a dish is not prepared un til an order

MARINADE: An appareil used before cooking to fla v o r and
arrives in the kitchen.
m oisten foods; may be liquid or dry. Liquid marinades are

usually based on an acidic ingredient such as wine or vin
egar; dry marinades are usually salt based.
MIREPOIX: A com bination o f chopped arom atic vegetables

(usually tw o parts onion, one pa rt carrot, and one p a rt cel
ery) used to fla v o r stocks, soups, braises, and stews.
MARK ON A GRILL: To tu rn a fo o d (w ith o u t flip p in g it over) 90

degrees a fte r it has been on the g rill fo r several seconds to
create th e cross-hatching associated w ith grille d foods.
MISE EN PLACE: L iterally, p u t in place."The preparation and

assembly o f ingredients, pans, utensils, and plates or serv
ing pieces needed fo r a p a rticu la r dish or service period.
MARZIPAN: A paste o f ground almonds, sugar, and som etim es

egg w hites used to fill, cover, and decorate pastries.
MODE, A LA: Lite ra lly, "in the style o f" (often follow ed by de
plus a d escriptive phrase). Boeuf a la mode is braised beef;
MATELOTE: A French fish stew tra d itio n a lly made w ith eel
pie a la mode is served w ith ice cream.
or oth er fre sh w a te r fish and fla vo re d w ith wine and

arom atics.
MOLASSES: The dark brown, sweet syrup th a t is a by-product

o f sugarcane and sugar beet refining. Molasses is available
MATIGNON: An edible m irepoix, o fte n used in poeleed dishes

and usually served w ith the finished dish. Typically, m ati-
as lig h t (the least cooked but sweetest), dark, and black

strap (the m ost cooked and m ost b itte r).
gnon includes tw o parts carrot, one pa rt celery, one part

leek, one p a rt onion, one p a rt mushroom (optional), and one
p a rt ham or bacon.
MOLLUSK: Any o f a number o f invertebrate animals w ith so ft,

unsegmented bodies usually enclosed in a hard shell.
M ollusks include gastropods (univalves), bivalves, and
MAYONNAISE: A cold emulsion o f oil, egg yolks, vinegar, mus

tard, and seasonings, used as a dressing, a spread, or a
cephalopods; examples include clams, oysters, snails, o cto

pus, and squid.
base fo r a d ditional sauces.

MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG): A fla vo r enhancer derived
MECHANICAL LEAVENER: A ir incorporated into a b a tte r or
dough to act as a rising agent.
MEDALLION: A small, round scallop o f meat.
MERINGUE: Egg w hites beaten w ith sugar until they stiffe n .
Types include regular or common, Italian, and Swiss.
MESOPHILIC: A te rm used to describe bacteria th a t th rive in
tem peratures between 60 and 1 00F /16 and 38C.
METABOLISM: The sum o f chemical processes in living cells by
which energy is provided and new m aterial is assim ilated.
fro m glutam ic acid, w ith o u t a d is tin c t fla vo r o f its own;

used prim a rily in Chinese cuisine and processed foods. May
cause allergic reactions in some people.
MONOUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t w ith one available bonding site
not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. Helpful in lowering the LDL
cholesterol level (the bad cholesterol). Food sources include
avocados, olives, and nuts.
MONTE AU BEURRE: Literally, lifte d w ith butter." Refers to
a technique used to fin ish sauces, thicken them slightly,
and give them a glossy appearance by whisking or sw irling
MEUNIERE, A LA: French fo r "in the style o f the m ille rs wife."

Refers to a cooking technique in which the item, generally
whole b u tte r into the sauce un til m elted.
G LO S S A R Y
1177
MOUSSE: A foam made w ith beaten egg w hites and /o r whipped

cream folded into a fla vo re d base appareil. May be sweet
or savory.
MOUSSELINE: A mousse. Also, a sauce made by fo lding
whipped cream in to hollandaise. Also, a very lig h t fo rc e
OIGNON PIQUE: L ite ra lly,"p ricked onionl A whole peeled onion

to which a bay le a f is attached, using a clove as a tack. Used
to fla vo r bechamel sauce and some soups.
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS: Polyunsaturated fa tty acids th a t may
reduce the risk o f heart disease and tu m o r growth, stim u
meat based on w hite m eat or seafood lightened w ith cream
late the immune system, and lower blood pressure; they
and eggs.
occur in fa tty fish, dark green leafy vegetables, and certain

nuts and oils.
OMELET: Beaten egg, cooked in b u tte r in a specialized pan or
NAPOLEON: A pastry tra d itio n a lly made o f layered p u ff pas

tr y rectangles fille d w ith pastry cream and glazed w ith
fondant.
NAPPE: To coat w ith sauce. Also, thickened. Also, the consis
tency o f a sauce th a t w ill coat the back o f a spoon.
NATURE: French fo r "ungarnished" or plain. Pommes natures
are boiled potatoes.
skillet, then rolled or folded into an oval. Omelets may be

fille d w ith a va rie ty o f ingredients before or a fte r rolling.
ORGANIC LEAVENER: Yeast. A living organism acting to pro
duce carbon dioxide gas, which w ill cause a b a tte r or dough
to rise through the fe rm e n tatio n process.
ORGAN MEAT: M eat fro m an organ, rather than the muscle
tissue o f an animal. Includes brains, heart, kidneys, lungs,
sweetbreads, trip e , and tongue.
NAVARIN: A French stew, tra d itio n a lly o f lamb, w ith potatoes,

turnips, onions, and possibly o ther vegetables.
OVEN SPRING: The rapid in itia l rise o f yeast doughs when

placed in a hot oven. Heat accelerates the grow th o f the
NEW POTATO: Any small young p o tato less than I V 2 in /4 cm

in diameter, usually prepared by boiling or steaming, and
yeast, which produces more carbon dioxide gas, and also

causes th is gas to expand.
o fte n eaten w ith its skin. The new p o ta to has not ye t con
verted its sugar into starch, creating a waxy p o tato w ith a
thin skin.
NOISETTE: Hazelnut or hazelnut colored. Also, a small portion
o f meat cut from the rib. Pommes no ise tte are tourneed
p otatoes browned in butter. Beurre no ise tte is browned
butter.
NONBONY FISH: Fish whose skeletons are made o f cartilage
rather than hard bone (e.g., shark, skate). Also called c a rti
laginous fish.
NOUVELLE CUISINE: Literally, new cooking." A culinary move
m ent emphasizing freshness and lightness o f ingredients,
natural fla vo rs sim ply prepared, and innovative com bina
tio n s and presentation.
NUTRIENT: A basic com ponent o f fo o d used by the body fo r
PAELLA: A dish o f rice cooked w ith onion, tom ato, garlic, veg
etables, and various meats, fish, or shellfish. A paella pan is
a specialized pan; it is wide and shallow and usually has two
loop handles.
PAILLARD: A scallop o f meat pounded u n til thin; usually grilled
or sauteed.
PALETTE KNIFE: A small, long, narrow m etal spatula w ith a
rounded tip . May be tapered or straight, o ffs e t or fla t.
PAN BROILING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to dry sauteing th a t
sim ulates b roiling by cooking an item in a hot pan w ith little
or no fa t.
PAN DRESSED: Portion-size whole fish w ith the guts, gills,
grow th, repair, restoration, and energy. Includes carbohy
and scales removed. The fin s and ta il may or may not be
drates, fa ts, proteins, water, vitam ins, and minerals.
trim m ed or removed.
NUTRITION: The process by which an organism takes in and

uses food.
PAN FRY: To cook in fa t in a skillet; generally involves more fa t

than sauteing or s tir-fry in g but less than deep frying.
PAN GRAVY: A sauce made by deglazing pan drippings from a
roa st and combining them w ith a roux or o ther starch and
OBLIQUE CUT/ROLL CUT: A knife cut used prim a rily fo r long,

cylindrical vegetables such as carrots, in which the item is
cut on a diagonal, rolled 180 degrees, then cut on the same
diagonal to produce a piece w ith tw o angled edges.
OFFAL: Edible entrails and extre m itie s; v a rie ty meats, including
organs (brains, heart, kidneys, lungs, sweetbreads, tripe ,
tongue), head meat, ta il, and fe e t.
OFFSET SPATULA: A hand to o l w ith a wide, bent blade set in a
sh o rt handle, used to tu rn or lif t foods fro m grills, broilers,
or griddles.
OIGNON BRULE: L iterally, b urnt onion." A peeled, halved onion
seared on a fla tto p or in a skillet, used to enhance the color
o f stock and consomme.
GLOSSARY
additional stock.
PAN STEAM: To cook foods in a very small amount o f liquid in a
covered pan over dire ct heat.
PAPILLOTE, EN: A m oist-h e a t cooking method sim ilar to
steaming, in which item s are enclosed in parchm ent and
cooked in the oven.
PARCHMENT: H e a t-re sista n t paper used to line baking pans,
enclose item s to cook en papillote, and cover item s during
shallow poaching.
PARCOOK: To p a rtia lly cook an item before sto rin g or finishing.
PARISIENNE SCOOP: A small to o l used fo r scooping balls out
o f vegetables or fru its and fo r po rtio n in g tr u ffle ganache
among oth er preparations. Also called a melon bailer.
PAR STOCK: The amount o f fo o d and o th er supplies necessary

to cover operating needs between deliveries.
PASTA: Literally, "dough or"paste." Noodles made fro m a dough
PHYSICAL LEAVENER: The steam or air trapped in a dough th a t

expands and causes the item to rise.
PHYTOCHEMICALS: N aturally occurring compounds in
o f flo u r (ofte n semolina) and w a te r or eggs, kneaded,
plant fo o ds th a t have a ntioxidant and disease-fighting
rolled, and cut or extruded, then cooked by boiling.
properties.
PASTEURIZATION: A process in which m ilk products are heated

to k ill m icroorganism s th a t could contam inate the milk.
PASTRY BAG: A bag, usually made o f plastic, canvas, or nylon,
th a t can be fitte d w ith plain or decorative tip s and used to
pipe out icings and pureed foods.
PATE: Noodles or pasta. Also, dough, paste, or b a tte r (as in pate
brisee).
PATE: A rich forcem eat o f meat, game, poultry, seafood, and/or
vegetables, baked in pa stry or in a mold or dish and served
hot or cold.
PATE A CHOUX: Cream p u ff batter, made by boiling w a te r or
milk, butter, and flour, then beating in whole eggs. When
baked, pate a choux p u ffs to fo rm a hollowed pastry shell
th a t can be fille d .
PATE BRISEE: A sh o rt p a stry used to create crusts fo r pie
crusts, ta rts , and quiches.
PATE DE CAMPAGNE: C ountry-style pate w ith a coarse texture,
made o f pork b u tt, chicken livers, garlic, onion, and parsley,
flavored w ith brandy.
PATE EN CROOt E: A pate baked in a pastry crust.
PATE FEUILLETEE: P u ff pastry.
PICKLING SPICE: A m ixture o f herbs and spices used to season

pickles. O ften includes dill weed and/or seed, coriander seed,
cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and bay leaves, among others.
PILAF: A technique fo r cooking grains in which the grain is sau
teed b rie fly in butter, then sim mered in stock or w ater w ith
seasonings u n til the liquid is absorbed. Also called pilau,
pilaw, pullao, pilav.
PINCE: Refers to an item , usually a to m a to product, caramel
ized by sauteing.
PLUCHES: Whole herb leaves connected to a small b it o f stem;
o fte n used as a garnish. Also called sprigs.
POACH: To cook g ently in sim m ering liquid a t 160 to
1 8 5 F /7 1 to 85C.
POELE: Refers to fo o d cooked in its own juices (usually w ith the
addition o f a m atignon, o th er arom atics, and m elted b u t
te r) in a covered pot, usually in the oven. Also called b u tte r
roasting.
POISSONIER: Fish ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r
fish item s and th e ir sauces; may be combined w ith the
saucier position.
POLENTA: Cornmeal mush cooked in sim m ering liquid u n til the
grains so fte n and the liquid is absorbed. Can be eaten hot
PATE SUCREE: A sweet sh o rt pa stry used fo r pies, ta rts, and
or cold, firm or so ft.
fille d cookies.
POLYUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith more than one
PATFIOGEN: A disease-causing m icroorganism.
PATISSIER: Pastry ch e f/sta tio n . This position is responsible fo r
baked item s, pastries, and desserts. O ften a separate area
o f the kitchen.
PAUPIETTE: A fille t or scallop o f fish or meat, rolled up around
a s tu ffin g and poached or braised.
PAYSANNE/FERMIER CUT: A knife cut in which the item is cut
into fla t, square pieces V 2 in by V 2 in by Vs in /
1 cm by 1 cm by 3 mm.
PEEL: A paddle used to tra n s fe r shaped doughs to a hearth or
deck oven. Also, to remove the skin fro m a fo o d item.
PESTO: A th ic k pureed m ixture o f an herb, tra d itio n a lly basil
and oil. Used as a sauce fo r pasta and o ther foods and as
a garnish fo r soup. Pesto may also contain grated cheese,
nuts or seeds, and o th e r seasonings.
PETIT FOUR: A fancy bite-size layered cake covered in fondant.
available bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom.

Food sources include corn, cottonseed, safflow er, soy, and
sunflow er oils.
PORT: A fo rtifie d dessert wine. Vintage p o rt is high-quality
unblended wine aged in the b o ttle fo r a t least tw elve years.
Ruby p o rt may be blended, and is aged in wood fo r a short
tim e. W hite p o rt is made w ith w hite grapes.
POT-AU-FEU: A classic French boiled dinner; typ ica lly includes
p o u ltry and beef, along w ith various ro o t vegetables. The
b ro th is o fte n served as a fir s t course, follow ed by the
m eats and vegetables.
PRAWN: A crustacean th a t closely resembles shrimp; often
used as a general te rm fo r large shrimp.
PRESENTATION SIDE: The side o f a piece o f meat, poultry, or
fish th a t w ill be served facing up.
PRESSURE STEAMER: A machine th a t cooks food using steam
Also, more generally can re fe r to bite-size pastries and
produced by heating w a te r under pressure in a sealed
cookies.
com partm ent, which allows it to reach tem peratures higher
PH SCALE: A scale w ith values fro m 0 to 14 representing de
than boiling (212F/100C). The fo o d is placed in a cham
gree o f acidity. A m easurem ent o f 7 is neutral, 0 is m ost
ber th a t is then sealed and cannot be opened u n til the pres
acidic and 14 is m ost alkaline. Chemically, pH measures the
sure has been released and the steam properly vented.
concentration o f hydrogen ions.

PHYLLO/FILO DOUGH: Pastry made w ith very th in sheets o f a
PRIMAL CUTS: The large portions produced by the in itia l cu t

tin g o f an animal carcass. Cuts are determ ined standards
flo u r-a n d -w a te r dough layered w ith b u tte r and/or bread or
th a t may vary by country and animal. Primal cuts are fu r
cake crumbs; sim ilar to strudel.
th e r broken down into smaller, more manageable cuts.
G LO S S A R Y
1179
PRINTANIERE: A garnish o f spring vegetables.

PRIX FIXE: Literally, fixe d price. A type o f menu in which a
com plete meal is o ffe re d fo r a preset price. The menu may
o ffe r several choices fo r each course.
PROOF: To allow yeast dough to rise. A p ro o f box is a sealed
cabinet th a t allows co n tro l over both tem perature and
hum idity.
PROTEIN: One o f the basic n u trie n ts needed by the body to
maintain life, supply energy, build and repair tissues, form
REMOUILLAGE: Literally, "rewetting.' A stock made from bones

th a t have already been used fo r stock. Weaker than a firs tq u a lity stock, it is o fte n reduced to make glaze.
RENDER: To m elt fa t and c la rify the drippings fo r use in saute
ing or pan frying.
REST: To allow fo o d to s it undisturbed a fte r roasting and be
fo re carving; th is allows the juices to seep back into the
m eat fib e rs.
RICH DOUGH: A yeast dough th a t contains fa ts such as b u t
enzymes and hormones, and pe rfo rm o ther essential fu n c
te r and /o r egg yolks. May also contain sweeteners. Rich
tions. Protein can be obtained fro m animal and vegetable
doughs tend to produce more tender breads w ith a darker
sources.
crust than lean doughs.
PROVENQAL(E)/A LA PROVENCALE: Dishes prepared in the
RILLETTE: Potted meat; m eat cooked slowly in seasoned fat,
style o f Provence, France, o fte n w ith garlic, tom atoes, and
then shredded or pounded into a paste w ith some o f the
olive oil. May also contain anchovies, eggplant, mushrooms,
fa t. The m ixture is packed in ramekins and covered w ith a
olives, and onions.
thin layer o f fa t. O ften used as a spread.
PULSE: The edible seed o f a leguminous plant, such as a bean,

lentil, or pea. O ften refe rre d to sim ply as legume.
PUREE: To process fo o d by mashing, straining, or chopping it
very fin e ly in order to make it a sm ooth paste. Also, a prod
uct produced using th is technique.
RING TOP: A fla tto p w ith removable plates th a t can be opened

to varying degrees to expose the cooking food to more or
less heat.
RISOTTO: Rice sauteed b rie fly in b u tte r w ith onions and pos
sibly o th er arom atics, then combined w ith stock, which is
added in several additions and stirre d constantly to pro
duce a creamy te xtu re w ith grains th a t are s till al dente.
QUAHOG/QUAHAUG: A hard-shell clam larger than 3 in / 8 cm in

diameter, usually used fo r chowder or fritte rs .
QUATRE EPICES: Literally, "fo u r spices." A fin e ly ground spice
ROE: Fish or shellfish eggs.

ROLL-IN: B u tte r or a butter-based m ixture placed between lay
m ixture containing black peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon,
ers o f pastry dough, then rolled and folded repeatedly to
cloves, and som etim es ginger. Used to fla vo r soups, stews,
fo rm numerous layers. When the dough is baked, the layers
and vegetables.
remain discrete, producing a very flaky, rich pastry.
QUENELLE: A lig h t poached dumpling based on a forcem eat

(usually chicken, veal, seafood, or game) bound w ith eggs,
and shaped in an oval by using tw o spoons.
QUICK BREAD: Bread made w ith chemical leaveners, which
w ork more quickly than yeast because they require no
kneading or fe rm e n tatio n . Also called b a tte r bread.
RONDEAU: A shallow, wide, straig h t-sid e d p o t w ith tw o loop

handles; o fte n used fo r braising.
RONDELLE: A knife cut used on cylindrical vegetables or items
trim m ed into cylinders before cutting; produces fla t round
or oval pieces.
ROTISSEUR: Roast ch e f/sta tio n . The position is responsible fo r
all roasted foods and related sauces.
ROULADE: A slice o f meat or fish rolled around a stu ffin g . Also,
RAFT: A m ixture o f ingredients used to c la rify consomme.

Refers to the fa c t th a t the ingredients rise to the surface
and fo rm a flo a tin g mass.
a fille d and rolled sponge cake.

ROUND: A cut o f be e f fro m the hind quarter th a t includes the
to p and b o tto m round, eye, and to p sirloin. It is lean and
RAGOUT: A stew o f meat and/or vegetables.
usually braised or roasted. Also, in baking, to shape pieces
RAMEKIN/RAMEQUIN: A small ovenproof dish, usually ceramic.
o f yeast dough into balls; th is process stretches and relax
REACH-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit or se t o f units

w ith pass-through doors. O ften used in the pantry area fo r
es the gluten and ensures even rising and a sm ooth crust.

ROUND FISH: A cla ssification o f fish based on skeletal type,
storage o f salads, cold hors doeuvre, and oth er freq u e n tly
characterized by a rounded body and eyes on opposite
used items.
sides o f the head. Round fish are usually cut by the up and
REDUCE: To decrease the volume o f a liquid by sim m ering or

boiling. Used to provide a th icke r consistency and /o r con
centrated flavors.
REDUCTION: The product th a t results when a liquid is reduced.
REFRESH: To plunge an item into, or run it under, cold w ater
a fte r blanching to prevent fu rth e r cooking. Also known as
shock.
1180
ROAST: To cook by dry heat in an oven or on a s p it over a fire.
G LO S S A R Y
over method.
ROUX: An appareil containing equal parts o f flo u r and fa t
(usually butter), used to thicken liquids. Roux is cooked to
varying degrees (white, blond, brown, or dark), depending
on its intended use. The darker the roux, the less thickening
power it has but the fu lle r the taste.
ROYALE: A consomme garnish made o f unsweetened cooked
custard cut in to decorative shapes.
RUB: A com bination o f spices and herbs applied to foods as a
SAVORY: N ot sweet. Also, the name o f a course served a fte r
marinade or fla v o rfu l crust. Dry rubs are generally based
d essert and before p o rt in tra d itio n a l B ritish meals. Also, a
upon spices; w e t rubs (som etim es known as mops) may
fa m ily o f herbs (including summer and w in te r savory) th a t
include m oist ingredients such as fresh herbs, vegetables,
ta ste like a cross between thym e and mint.
and fr u it juice or broth, if necessary, to make a pasty

consistency. Rubs are absorbed into the m eat to create a
g re a te r depth o f flavor.
SCALD: To heat a liquid, usually m ilk or cream, to ju s t below

the boiling point. May also r e fe r to b la n ch in gfru its and
vegetables.
SCALE: To measure ingredients by weighing, or to divide dough
or b a tte r into p o rtio n s by weight. Also, to remove the
5ABAYON: A custard o f sweetened egg yolks flavored w ith

Marsala or o th er wine or liqueur, beaten in a double boiler
until fro th y . In Italian, zabaglione.
SACHET D'EPICES: L iterally, "bag o f spices. A rom atic ingre
dients encased in cheesecloth, used to fla vo r stocks and
oth er liquids. A standard sachet contains parsley stems,
cracked peppercorns, dried thyme, and a bay leaf.
SALT COD: Cod th a t has been salted and dried to preserve it.
SALTPETER: Potassium n itra te . A com ponent o f curing salt,
used to preserve meat. It gives certain cured meats th e ir
characteristic pink color.
SANITATION: The maintenance o f a clean fo o d preparation
environm ent by healthy fo o d w orkers in order to prevent
food-borne illnesses and fo o d contam ination.
SANITIZE: To k ill pathogenic organisms by chemicals and/or
m oist heat.
SASHIMI: Sliced raw fish, served w ith such condim ents as a
julienne o f daikon radish, pickled ginger, wasabi, and soy
sauce.
SATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule whose available bonding sites
are e n tire ly fille d w ith hydrogen atoms. These tend to be
solid a t room tem perature and are p rim arily o f animal o ri
scales fro m fish.

SCALER: A to o l used to scrape scales from fish. Used by scrap
ing against the directio n in which scales lie fla t, working
fro m ta il to head.
SCALLOP: A bivalve whose adductor muscle (the muscle th a t
keeps its shells closed) and roe are eaten. Also, a small
boneless piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness. Also,
a side dish in which an item is layered w ith cream or sauce
and topped w ith bread crumbs p rior to baking.
SCORE: To cut the surface o f an item at regular intervals to
allow it to cook evenly, allow excess fa t to drain, help the
fo o d absorb marinades, or fo r decorative purposes.
SCRAPPLE: A boiled m ixture o f pork trim m ings, buckwheat,
and cornm eal compressed into a loaf, chilled, and sliced. It
is o fte n frie d a fte r chilling and served fo r breakfast.
SEAR: To brown the surface o f food in fa t over high heat before
fin ish in g by another m ethod (e.g., braising or roasting) in
order to add flavor.
SEA SALT: S alt produced by evaporating seawater. Available
refined or unrefined, crystallized or ground. Also known as
sel gris (French fo r gray sa lt).
SEASONING: Adding an ingredient to give foods a particular
gin, including butter, meat, cheese, and eggs; coconut oil,
flavor, using salt, pepper, herbs, spices, and/or condiments.
palm oil, and cocoa b u tte r are vegetable sources.
Also, the process by which a p ro te ctive coating is b u ilt up
SAUCE: A liquid accompanim ent to food, used to enhance the

fla v o r o f the food.
SAUCE VIN BLANC: L iterally, "w hite wine sauce." A sauce made
by combining a reduced poaching liquid (typica lly contain
ing wine) w ith prepared hollandaise, veloute, or diced
butter.
SAUCIER: Saute ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all
sauteed item s and th e ir sauces.
SAUSAGE: A fo rce m e a t m ixture shaped into p a ttie s or links,
ty p ic a lly highly seasoned; originally made to preserve the
m eat and use edible trim . Made from ground meat, fa t, and
seasonings. Sausage varies in size, shape, curing tim e, and
typ e o f casing.
SAUTE: To cook quickly in a small amount o f fa t in a pan on the
stovetop.
SAUTEUSE: A shallow s k ille t w ith sloping sides and a single
long handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as
a saute pan.
SAUTOIR: A shallow s k ille t w ith stra ig h t sides and a single long
handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as a
on the in te rio r o f a pan.

SEMOLINA: The hard durum wheat endosperm used fo r gnocchi, bread, couscous, and pasta. Semolina has a high gluten
content.
SHALLOW POACH: To cook an item gently in a shallow pan,
barely covered w ith sim m ering liquid. The liquid is often
reduced and used as the base o f a sauce.
SHEET PAN: A fla t baking pan, o fte n w ith a rolled lip, used to
cook foods in the oven.
SHELF LIFE: The amount o f tim e in storage th a t a product can
m aintain its quality.
SHELLFISH: Various typ e s o f marine life consumed as food, in
cluding m ollusks such as univalves, bivalves, cephalopods,
and crustaceans.
SHERRY: A fo rtifie d Spanish wine; varies in color and
sweetness.
SHIRRED EGG: An egg cooked w ith b u tte r (and often cream) in
a ramekin un til the w hites are set.
SIEVE: A container made o f a p e rfo ra te d m aterial such as wire
mesh, used to drain or puree foods.
saute pan.
GLOSSARY
ll8 l
SILVERSKIN: The tough connective tissue th a t surrounds cer
SOURDOUGH: A yeasted bread dough leavened using a non-
tain muscles. This protein does not dissolve when cooked
com m ercially produced fe rm ented starter. Also refers to
and m ust be removed p rior to cooking.
a naturally leavened bread th a t contains no commercial
SIMMER:To m aintain the tem perature o f a liquid ju s t be

low boiling. Also, to cook immersed in liquid at 185 to
2 0 0 F /8 5 to 9 3 C .
SIMPLE CARBOHYDRATE: Any o f a number o f small carbohy
drate molecules (mono- and disaccharides) including glu
cose, fructose, lactose, m altose, and sucrose.
SIMPLE SYRUP: A m ixture o f w a te r and sugar (with additional
flavorings or arom atics as desired), heated u n til the sugar
dissolves. Used to m oisten cakes and to poach fru its.
SINGLE-STAGE TECHNIQUE: Cooking involving only one cook
ing method (e.g., boiling or sauteing), as opposed to more
than one method, as in braising.
SKIM: To remove im p uritie s during cooking fro m the surface o f
a liquid such as stock or soup.
SKIM MILK: M ilk from which all but 0.5 percent o f the m ilk fa t
has been removed.
SLURRY: A starch, such as arrow root, cornstarch, or p otato
yeast.
SOUS CHEF: Literally, "under chef." The chef who is second in
command in a kitchen; usually responsible fo r scheduling,
fillin g in fo r the executive chef, and assisting the chefs de
partie as necessary.
SPATZLE: A s o ft noodle or small dum pling made by dropping
b its o f a prepared b a tte r into sim m ering liquid.
SPIDER: A long-handled skim m er used to remove item s from
hot liquid or fa t and to skim the surface o f liquids.
SPIT-ROAST: To roa st an item on a large skewer or sp it over, or
in fro n t of, an open flam e or o ther radiant heat source.
SPONGE: A th ick yeast batter, allowed to fe rm e n t and develop
a lig h t consistency and then combined w ith other ingredi
ents to fo rm a yeast dough.
SPONGE CAKE: A sw e e tfoa m e d cake leavened w ith beaten egg
foam . Also called genoise.
SPRINGFORM PAN: A round straight-sided pan whose sides
starch, dispersed in cold liquid to prevent it fro m form ing
are form ed by a hoop th a t can be unclamped and detached
lumps when added to hot liquid as a thickener.
fro m its base. P rim arily used fo r cheesecakes and mousse
SMALL SAUCE: A sauce th a t is a derivative o f any o f the

grand" sauces.
SMOKE POINT: The tem perature at which a fa t begins to break
down and smoke when heated.
cakes.
STABILIZER: An ingredient (usually a protein or plant product;
e.g., egg yolks, cream, or m ustard) added to an emulsion
to prevent it fro m separating. Also, an ingredient such as
gelatin or gum, used in various desserts (e.g., Bavarian
SMOKER: An enclosed area in which fo o ds are held on racks or
creams) to prevent them from separating.
hooks and allowed to remain in a smoke bath at an appro

priate tem perature.
STANDARD BREADING PROCEDURE: The assembly-line proce

dure in which item s are dredged in flour, dipped in beaten
SMOKE ROASTING: A m ethod o f roasting foods in which item s

are placed on a rack in a pan containing wood chips th a t
egg, then coated w ith crumbs before being pan frie d or

deep fried .
smolder, e m ittin g smoke, when the pan is placed on the

stovetop or in the oven.
STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS: A fa cu lta tive bacteria th a t can

cause food-borne illness. It is p a rticu la rly dangerous be
SMOKING: Any o f several m ethods fo r preserving and fla v o r

ing foods by exposing them to smoke. M ethods include
cold smoking (in which smoked item s are not fu lly cooked),
cause it produces toxins th a t cannot be destroyed by heat.

Staph in to xica tio n is m ost o fte n caused by tra n sfe r o f the
bacteria from in fe cted fo o d handlers.
hot smoking (in which the item s are cooked), and smoke
roasting.
STEAK: A portion-size (or larger) cut o f meat, poultry, or fish

made by c u ttin g across the grain o f a muscle or a muscle
SMOTHER: To cook in a lidded pan w ith little liquid over low
group. May be boneless or bone in.
heat. The main item is o fte n com pletely covered by another

food item or sauce while it cooks.
STEAM: To cook item s in a vapor bath created by boiling water

or other liquids.
SODIUM: An alkaline m etal elem ent necessary in small q uanti

tie s fo r human n u tritio n ; one o f the com ponents o f most
salts used in cooking.
STEAMER: A set o f stacked pots w ith p e rfo ra tion s in the b o t

tom o f each pot. They f i t over a larger po t fille d w ith boil
ing or sim m ering water. Also, a perfo ra te d insert made of
SOMMELIER: Wine stew ard or w aiter. Helps diners select wine
m etal or bamboo, used in a pot to steam foods.
and serves it. Responsible fo r the restaurant's wine cellar.

STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE: A ke ttle w ith double-layered walls
SORBET: A frozen dessert made w ith fr u it juice or another
base, a sweetener (usually sugar), and beaten egg whites,
which prevent the fo rm a tio n o f large ice crystals.
SOUFFLE: Literally, "puffed. A preparation made w ith a sauce
base (usually bechamel fo r savory souffles, pastry cream
fo r sweet ones), whipped egg w hites, and flavorings. The
egg w hites cause the so u ffle to p u ff during cooking.
1182
G LO S S A R Y
w ithin which steam circulates to provide even heat fo r

cooking stocks, soups, and sauces. These ke ttle s may be
insulated, spigoted, a nd/or tiltin g . The la tte r are also called
trunnion kettles.
STEEL: A to o l used to hone knife blades. It is usually made o f
steel but may be ceramic, glass, or diam ond-im pregnated
metal.
STEEP: To allow an ingredient to s it in warm or hot liquid to

e x tra c t fla vo r or im purities, or to so fte n the item.
STEWING: A cooking m ethod nearly identical to braising but
generally involving sm aller pieces o f meat and hence a
sh o rte r cooking tim e. Stewed item s also may be blanched
rather than seared, to give the finished product a pale
its tem perature. May also re fe r to the proper method fo r

m elting chocolate.
TEMPURA: Seafood and/or vegetables coated w ith a light b a t
te r and deep fried , usually accompanied by a sauce.
TENDERLOIN: A boneless cut o f meat, usually beef or pork,
from the loin; usually the m ost tender and expensive cut.
color.
TERRINE: A lo a f o f fo rce m e a t sim ilar to a pate, but cooked in a
STIR-FRYING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to sauteing, in which
item s are cooked over very high heat, using little fa t and
covered mold in a bain-marie. Also, the mold used to cook

such item s, usually an oval shape, made o f ceramic.
kept moving constantly. Usually done in a wok.

THERMOPHILIC: Heat-loving. Used to describe bacteria
STOCK: A fla v o rfu l liquid prepared by sim m ering meat bones,
p o u ltry bones, seafood bones, a nd/or vegetables in w ater
th a t th rive w ith in the tem perature range from 1 1 0 to

171F/4B to 77C.
w ith arom atics u n til th e ir fla vo r is extracted. Used as a

base fo r soups, sauces, and o ther preparations.
THICKENER: An in gredient used to give additional body to liq

uids. A rrow ro o t, cornstarch, gelatin, roux, and beurre manie
STOCKPOT: A large, straig h t-sid e d pot, ta lle r than it is wide.
are examples.
Used fo r making stocks and soups. Some have spigots;

these are also called marm ites.
TILTING KETTLE: A large, tiltin g pot used fo r stewing and oc

casionally steaming.
STONE GROUND: A te rm used to describe meal or flo u r milled

between grindstones. Because the germ o f the wheat is not
separated, th is m ethod o f grinding retains more n utrients
than oth er methods.
STRAIGHT FORCEMEAT: A fo rce m e a t combining lean m eat and
fa t by grinding the m ixture together.
STRAIGHT-MIX METHOD: The dough-m ixing method in which
all ingredients are combined all a t once by hand or machine.
STRAIN: To pass a liquid through a sieve or screen to remove
particles.
TILT SKILLET: A large, relative ly shallow, tiltin g pan w ith a large

surface area. Can be used fo r braising, sauteing, or stewing.
TIMBALE: A small pail-shaped mold used to shape rice, cus
tards, mousselines, and o ther items. Also, a preparation
made in such a mold.
TOMALLEY: Lob ste r liver, which is olive green in color and used
in sauces and o th e r items.
TOMATO SAUCE: A sauce prepared by sim mering tom atoes in
a liquid (w ater or broth) w ith arom atics. One o f the grand
sauces.
SUPREME: The breast fille t and wing o f chicken or o ther poul

try . Sauce supreme is chicken veloute enriched w ith cream.
TOTAL UTILIZATION: The principle advocating the use o f as

much o f a p roduct as possible in order to reduce waste and
SWEAT: To cook an item , usually vegetable(s), in a covered pan

in a sm all amount o f fa t u n til it softens and releases m ois
tu re but does not brown.
increase p ro fits.
TOURNANT: Roundsman or swing cook; a kitchen s ta ff member
who works as needed throughout the kitchen.
SWEETBREADS: The thym us glands o f young animals, usu

ally calves but also lambs or pigs. Usually sold in pairs.
Sweetbreads have a m ild fla v o r and sm ooth texture. They
m ust be soaked in acidulated w a te r p rio r to cooking and
the ou ter membrane m ust be removed.
SWISS: To pound meat, usually beef, w ith flo u r and seasonings,
breaking up the muscle fib e rs and tenderizing the meat.
SYRUP: Sugar dissolved in liquid, usually water, possibly w ith
the addition o f flavorings such as spices or citrus zests.
TOURNER: To cut item s, usually vegetables, into a barrel, olive,

or fo o tb a ll shape. Tourneed fo o ds should have five or seven
sides or faces and blunt ends.
TOXIN: A naturally occurring poison, p a rticu la rly those pro
duced by the m etabolic a c tiv ity o f living organisms such as
bacteria.
TRANCHE: A slice or cut o f meat, fish, or p o u ltry cut on a bias
to visually increase the appearance o f the cut.
TRICHINELLA SPIRALIS: A spiral-shaped parasitic worm th a t
invades the in te stin es and muscle tissue. Transmitted

p rim a rily through in fe cted pork th a t has not been cooked
TABLE D'HOTE: A fixe d -p rice menu w ith a single price fo r an
su fficie n tly.
e ntire meal based on the entree selection.

TRIPE: The edible stomach lining o f a cow or o ther ruminant.
TABLE SALT: Refined granulated salt. May be fo rtifie d w ith
iodine and tre a te d w ith magnesium carbonate to prevent
Honeycomb trip e comes fro m the second stomach and has

a honeycom b-like appearance.
clumping.
TRUSS: To tie up m eat or p o u ltry w ith string before cooking it,
TART: A shallow straig h t-sid e d pastry crust (may be flu te d or
plain), fille d w ith a savory or sweet, fresh and/or cooked
to give it a com pact shape fo r more even cooking and b e t

te r appearance.
fillin g . Also, describes something, very acidic or sour.

TUBER: The fle sh y root, stem, or rhizome o f a plant, able to
TEMPER: To heat gently and gradually. May re fe r to the process
o f incorporating hot liquid into a liaison to gradually raise
grow into a new plant. Some, such as potatoes, are eaten as

vegetables.
G LO S S A R Y
1183
TUILE: Literally, "tile. A thin w a fe r-like cookie or fo o d cut to
VITAMINS: Any o f various n u tritio n a lly essential organic sub
resemble th is cookie. Tuiles are fre q u e n tly shaped while
stances th a t do not provide energy but usually act as regu
s till warm and pliable by pressing them into molds or drap
lators in m etabolic processes and help maintain health.
ing them over rolling pins or dowels.

TUNNELING: A fa u lt in baked goods th a t may occur due to
overm ixing or by not fu lly incorporating a chemical leaven-
w
WAFFLE: A crisp, pancake-like b a tte r product, cooked on a
er, among oth er reasons. The finished product w ill contain
specialized griddle th a t gives the finished product a tex-
large holes (tunnels).
tu re d pattern, usually a grid. Also, a special vegetable cut

th a t produces a grid or basket-weave pattern. Also known
as g a u fre tte .
UMAMI: Describes a savory, m eaty ta ste ; o fte n associated w ith
WALK-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit large enough to
m onosodium glutam ate (MSG) and mushrooms.
walk into. It is occasionally large enough to m aintain zones

o f d iffe re n t tem peratures and hum idity to sto re a variety
UNIVALVE: A single-shelled, single-m uscle m ollusk such as
o f fo o ds properly. Some have reach-in doors as well. Some
abalone and sea urchin.
are large enough to accomm odate rolling carts as well as

UNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith a t least one available
many shelves o f goods.
bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. May be mono

unsaturated or polyunsaturated. Tends to be liquid a t room
WASABLThe ro o t o f an Asian plant sim ilar to horseradish. It

becomes b rig h t green when mixed w ith water. Used as a
tem perature. Prim arily o f vegetable origin.
condim ent in Japanese cooking.
WHEY: The liquid le ft a fte r curds have form ed in milk.
VANILLA SAUCE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or
WHIP/WHISK: To beat an item , such as cream or egg whites, to

incorporate air. Also, a special to o l fo r whipping made o f
milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or
looped wire attached to a handle.
used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice

cream. Also known as creme anglaise.
WHITE CHOCOLATE: Cocoa b u tte r flavored w ith sugar and m ilk

solids. It does not contain any cocoa solids, so it does not
VARIETY MEAT: M eat from a p a rt o f an animal o ther than the

muscle (e.g., organ meats). Variety m eats include tongue,
have the characteristic brown color th a t regular chocolate
liver, brains, kidneys, sweetbreads, and tripe . Also called
has.
offal.
WHITE MIREPOIX: M irepoix th a t does not include carrots, and

may include chopped mushrooms or mushroom trim m ings
VEGETABLE SOUP: A b ro th - or w ater-based soup made p ri
and parsnips. Used fo r pale or w h ite sauces and stocks.
m arily w ith vegetables; may include meats, legumes, and

noodles and may be clear or thick.
WHITE STOCK: A light-colored stock made w ith bones th a t

have not been browned.
VEGETARIAN: An individual who has adopted a specific d ie t

th a t elim inates m eat and fish and products derived from
m eat and fish but not all animal products. Lacto-ovo-
WHOLE GRAIN: An unmilled or unprocessed grain.

WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR: Flour m illed from the whole grain in
vegetarians include dairy products and eggs in th e ir diet;
cluding the bran, germ, and endosperm.
ovo-vegetarians include eggs. Vegans eat no fo o ds derived

in any way fro m animals.
WOK: A round-bottom ed pan, usually made o f rolled steel,

used in Asian cuisine fo r nearly all cooking methods. Its
VELOUTE: A sauce o f w h ite stock (chicken, veal, or seafood)
shape allows fo r even heat d istrib u tio n and easy tossing o f
thickened w ith w hite roux. One o f the grand" sauces. Also,
ingredients.
a cream soup made w ith a veloute sauce base and fla v o r

ings (usually pureed), usually finished w ith a liaison.
VENISON: M eat from large game animals in the deer fam ily, but
o fte n used to re fe r specifically to deer meat.
YAM: A large tu b e r th a t grows in tro p ica l and subtropical cli

mates; it has starchy pale-yellow flesh. The name "yam is
VERTICAL CHOPPING MACHINE (VCM): A machine sim ilar to a
also used fo r the botanically unrelated sweet potato.
blender th a t has ro ta tin g blades used to grind, whip, emul

sify, or blend foods.
YEAST: M icroscopic organism whose m etabolic processes are

responsible fo r fe rm e n tatio n . It is used fo r leavening bread
VINAIGRETTE: A cold sauce o f oil and vinegar, usually w ith va ri
and in the m aking o f beer and wine.
ous flavorings. It is a tem porary emulsion. The standard

p ro portion is three parts o il to one p a rt vinegar.
YOGURT: M ilk cultured w ith bacteria to give it a slig h tly thick

consistency and sour flavor.
VIRUS: A typ e o f pathogenic m icroorganism th a t can be tra n s

m itte d in food. Viruses cause illnesses such as measles,
chicken pox, in fe ctio us h epatitis, and colds.
z
ZEST: The thin, b rig h tly colored o uter p a rt o f citrus rind. It con
tains vo la tile oils, m aking it ideal fo r use as a flavoring.
1184
G LO S S A R Y
readings and
resources
food history
Am erican Food: The G astronom ic Story. 3rd ed. Evan Jones.
Overlook Press, 1990.
A Woman's Place Is in the Kitchen": The Evolution o f Women
Chefs. Ann Cooper. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1998.
Cod: A Biography o f the Fish That Changed the World. M ark
Kurlansky. W alker and Co., 1997.
Consuming Passions: The A nthropology o f Eating. Peter Farb
and George Arm elagos. Houghton M ifflin , 1980.
Culture and Cuisine: A Journey Through the H isto ry o f Food.
Jean-Frangois Revel. Translated by Helen R. Lane. Da Capo
Press, 1984.
The D eipnosophists (Banquet o f the Learned). Athenaeus o f
Naucratis. Translated by C. D. Yonge. London: Henry G.
Bohn, 1854.
Eating in Am erica: A H istory. Waverley Root and Richard de
Rochemont. Ecco, 1981.
Fabulous Feasts: M edieval Cookery and Ceremony. Madeleine
Pelner Cosman. Braziller, 1976.
Food and Drink Through the Ages, 2 5 0 0 BC to 1 9 3 7 AD.
Barbara Feret. London: Maggs Brothers, 1937.
Food in H istory. Reay Tannahill. Crown Publishers, 1989.
M odern Kitchen. Apicius. Translated by John Edwards.

London: H artley 6 Marks, 1984.
The Travels o f M arco Polo. Maria Bellonci. Translated by Teresa
Waugh. Facts on File, 1984.
Why We Eat W hat We Eat: How the Encounter Between the
New W orld and the Old Changed the Way Everyone on the
Planet Eats. Raymond Sokolov. Simon & Schuster, 1992.
sanitation and safety

A p plied Foodservice S a n ita tio n Textbook. 4th ed. Educational
Foundation o f the National Restaurant Association, 1992.
HACCP Reference Book. Educational Foundation o f the
N ational R estaurant Association, 1993.
chemistry of cooking
CookWise: The Hows & Why s o f Successful Cooking; The
Secrets o f Cooking Revealed. Shirley Corriher. Morrow,
1997.
The Curious Cook: M ore Kitchen Science and Lore. Harold
McGee. M acmillan, 1992.
G astronomy: The A nthropology o f Food and Food Habits.

M argaret L. A m o tt, ed. The Hague: M outon, 1975.
The E xperim ental Study o f Food. 2nd ed. Ada M arie Campbell,
M arjorie P orter Penfield, and Ruth M. Griswold. Constable
and Co., 1979.
Kitchen and Table: A Bedside H isto ry o f Eating in the W estern

World. Colin Clair. Abelard-Schuman, 1965.
Foods: A S c ie n tific Approach. 3rd ed. Helen Charley, Connie M.

Weaver. Prentice Hall, 1997.
Much Depends on Dinner: The E xtra o rd in a ry H isto ry and

M ythology, A llure and Obsessions, Perils and Taboos, o f an
O rdinary M eal. M argaret Visser. Grove Press, 1987.
On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore o f the Kitchen.

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ASIAN
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1188
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Cuisines o f India: The A rt and Tradition o f Regional Indian

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1189
wines and spirits
culinary associations
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Guide to Wines o f the World. 3rd ed. Steven Kolpan, Brian
H. Smith, and Michael A. Weiss. Wiley, 2010.
American Culinary
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180 Center Place Way
St. Augustine, FL 3 2 095
(8 0 0 )6 2 4 -9 4 5 8
w w w .acfchefs.org
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Am erican Brewer
A p pellation
A rt Culinaire
The A rt o f Eating
Beverage Digest
Beverage World
Bon A p p e tit
Brewer's D igest
C aterer and Hotelkeeper
Chef
Chocolate News
C hocolatier
Cooking fo r P ro fit
Cooking L ight
Cook's Illu s tra te d
Culinary Trends
Decanter
Eating Well
Food i j Wine
Food A rts
Food fo r Thought
Food M anagem ent
Foodservice and H o s p ita lity
Foodservice D ire ctor
Food Technology
Fresh Cup
G astronom ica
Herb Companion
H o s p ita lity
H o s p ita lity Design
H o te l and M ote l
M anagem ent
Hotels
Lodging
M e a t and P oultry
M odern Baking
Nation's R estaurant News
N u tritio n A ction Health
L e tte r
Pizza Today
Prepared Foods
R estaurant Business
R estaurant H o sp ita lity
Restaurants and In stitu tio n s
Saveur
Wine and S p irits
Wines and Vines
Wine S p e cta to r
The American Institute of

Wine & Food (AIWF)
95 P rescott Avenue
Monterey, CA 93940
(800) 2 7 4 -2 4 9 3
www.aiwf.org
Chefs Collaborative
89 South S tre e t
Boston, MA 02111
(617) 2 3 6 -5 2 0 0
w w w .chefscollaborative.org
The International Council on

Hotel, Restaurant and
Institutional Education
(CHRIE)
2 810 North Parham Road,
Suite 230
Richmond, VA 2 3 2 94
(804) 3 4 6 -4 8 0 0
www.chrie.org
International Association
of Culinary Professionals
(IACP)
1100 Johnson Ferry Road,
Suite 300
Atlanta, 6 A 3 0 342
(80 0 )9 2 8-4 2 2 7
www.iacp.com
The James Beard

Foundation
167 W est 12 th S tre e t
New York, NY 10011
(800) 36BEARD
www.jamesbeard.org
1190
R E A D IN G S A N D R ES O U R C ES
Les Dames d'Escoffier

P.O. Box 4961
Louisville, KY 40 204
(5 0 2 )4 5 6 -1 8 5 1
www.ldei.org
National Restaurant
Association (NRA)
1 2 0 0 1 7 th S treet, NW
Washington, DC 2 0 036
(2 0 2 )3 3 1 -5 9 0 0
www.restaurant.org
Oldways Preservation Trust

2 66 Beacon S tre e t
Boston, MA 02116
(617) 4 2 1 -5 5 0 0
w w w .oldwayspt.org
ProChef Certification
1946 Campus Drive
Hyde Park, NY 1 2 5 38 -1 4 9 9
(8 4 5 )4 5 2 -4 6 0 0
www.prochef.com
Share Our Strength (SOS)

1730 M S treet, NW, Suite
700
Washington, DC 2 0 036
(800) 9 6 9 -4 7 6 7
www.strength.org
Women Chefs and

Restaurateurs (WCR)
P.O. Box 1875
Madison, AL 3 5 758
(877) 9 2 7 -7 7 8 7
www.womenchefs.org
recipe index
a
Acorn Squash, Baked, with CranberryOrange Compote, 689

Aioli, 904
Almond(s)
Biscotti, -Anise, 1086-1087
-Fig Vinaigrette, 897
Frangipane Filling, 1128
Pear Frangipane Tartlets, 1128
in Picada, 612-613
Trout Amandine, 509
Amaranth Pancakes, 803
Amish Corn and Chicken Soup, 334
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow
Pepper Sauce, 510-511
Anchovy(ies)
in Caesar-Style Dressing, 902
-Caper Mayonnaise, 903
Pescado Frito, 972-973
in Provencal Sauce, 501
Andalucian Gazpacho (Gazpacho
Andaluz), 349
Angel Food Cake, 1082
Anise-Almond Biscotti, 1086-1087
Annatto Rice, 781
Apple(s)
Butter, 1130
Caramelized, 448,1138
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918
Chips, 1136
Pie, 1125
Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise,
943
in Waldorf Salad, 918
and Watercress Salad, Sherried, 917
Apple Cider
Sauce, 448
Vinaigrette, 897
Apricot Glaze, 1130
Arroz Blanco, 781
Arroz Brasileiro, 782
Arroz Mexicano, 782
Artichoke(s)
Eggs Massena, Poached, 869
Lamb Chops, Grilled, with
Rosemary, Cipollini Onions
and, 451
and Pepper Salad, 750
Souffle, 875
Arugula, Sauteed, 702
Asiago Cheese and Corn Risotto
Cakes, 805
Asian Dipping Sauce, 956
Asian-Style Marinade, 372
Asparagus
with Lemony Hollandaise,
6 8 8 -6 8 9
Tips, Risotto with, 783
Soup, Cream of (Creme
dArgenteuil), 339
and White Bean Lasagna, 829
Aspic, 995
Avocado
Baby Spinach, and Grapefruit
Salad, 918
in California Rolls, 981
in Cobb Salad, 912, 913
Guacamole, 958
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos,
Orange Oil and, 983
Baba Ghanoush, 958

Baby Spinach, Avocado, and
Grapefruit Salad, 918
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce
(Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean),
976
Bacon
with Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, 522
in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3
Club, CIA, 934, 935
Cobb Salad, 912, 913
Eggs Benedict, 870, 871
Quiche Lorraine, 876
in Rouladen Stuffing, 585
Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams,
Peppers and, 553
Vinaigrette, Warm, Wilted Spinach
Salad with, 914-915
Baguettes, 1033
Baked Acorn Squash with CranberryOrange Compote, 6 8 9
Baked Potatoes with Deep-Fried
Onions, 735
Baked Stuffed Pork Chops, 465
Balsamic Vinaigrette, 897
Banana
-Nut Bread, 1079,1080
Pancakes, 1073
Barbecue(d)
Beef Sandwich, 936
Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9
Chicken Breast with Black Bean
Sauce, 458
Marinade, 372
Spice Mix, 368
Steak with Herb Crust, 445
Barbecue Sauce
Guava, 467
Mustard (North Carolina Eastern
Low Country), 469
North Carolina Piedmont, 469
North Carolina Western, 469
for Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475
Barley
Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796
Pilaf, Pearl, 780
Salad with Cucumber and Mint,
800, 801
Basic Boiled Pasta, 819
Basic Boiled Rice, 785
Basic Lean Dough, 1033
Basic Muffin Recipe, 1078
Basic Pie Dough (3-2-1), 1070
Basic Polenta, 792
Basic Waffles, 1073
Basil
Butter, 300
Ice Cream, 1143-1144
Oil, 906
Pesto, 299
in Provencal Sauce, 501
Sauce, 1145
Thai, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515
Bass
Poached Sea, with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers, 553
and Scallops en Papillote, 553
Batter
Beer, 522
Beignet, Chocolate, 1154
Pate a Choux, 1084

Tempura, 523
BBQ Spice Rub, 791
Bean(s). See also Black Bean(s);
Chickpeas; Green Beans
Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929
in Cassoulet, 594
Corona (Fagioli allUccelletto), 772
Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681
Falafel, 776
Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773
Green Chile Stew, New Mexican,
595
Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb
with (Gigot a la Bretonne),
480
Lima, Roman-Style, 774
Pinto, Creamed (Frijoles
Maneados), 772
in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Red, and Rice, Boiled, 777
Rice and, 776
Salad, Mixed, 929
Soup, Black Bean, Caribbean-Style
Puree of, 345
Soup, Senate, 346
Soup, White Bean and Escarole,
Tuscan, 355
in Taco Salad, 913
and Tuna Salad (Insalata di Tonno e
Fagioli), 975
White, and Asparagus Lasagna, 829
White, Boiled, 777
White, Stew, Southwest, 775
Bean Curd
Grandmothers (Ma Po Dofu),
526, 527
in Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3
Smoked, and Celery Salad, 908
Tofu Cakes with Portobello
Mushrooms and Mango
Ketchup, 971
Bearnaise Sauce, 297
Bechamel Sauce, 295
Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with
Ragu and (Lasagna al Forno),
826, 827
Beef. See also Corned Beef; Steaks(s)
Barbecued, Sandwich, 936
in Bibimbap, 514
Boiled, with Spatzle and Potatoes
(Gaisburger Marsch), 570
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu
Bolognese), 296
Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet
Pickles, 472-473
Broth, 334
Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Carpaccio, 982
Consomme, 333
Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605
Goulash, 599
Noodle Soup (Pho Bo), 569
Oxtails, Braised, 581
Pot Roast, Yankee, 586
Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464
Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
Sauerbraten, 587
and Scallions, Skewered, 446
Short Ribs, Braised, 584
Short Ribs, Braised, Korean (Kalbi

Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Soup, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351
Stew, 589
Stock, White, 263
in Taco Salad, 913
Teriyaki, 4 4 4 ,4 4 5
Tournedos Provencal, 501
Wellington, 463
Beer
Batter, 522
and Cheddar Soup, Wisconsin, 340
Beet(s)
Glazed, 6 82, 683
Lobster Salad with Mangos,
Avocado, Orange Oil and,
983
Mushrooms, and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and Walnuts,
916, 917
Pasta, 819
Beignet Batter, Chocolate, 1154
Beignet Truffle Centers, 1153
Belgian Endive
a la Meuniere, 704
Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts
(Salade de Roquefort, Noix,
et Endives), 910-911
Bell Pepper(s). See also Red Pepper(s)
and Artichoke Salad, 750
Black Beans with Chorizo and,
7 6 8 -7 6 9
in Chili, Vegetarian, 7 7 8-779
Grilled Vegetables Provenâl-Style,
686
Marinated Roasted, 694, 695
and Pork Pie (Empanada Gallega de
Cerdo), 984
Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade,
960
Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams,
Bacon and, 553
Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511
Berny Potatoes, 747
Beurre Blanc, 298
Beurre Noisette, Potato and
Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with
Caramelized Onions, Sage
and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Bibimbap, 514
Bigarade Sauce, Roast Duckling with,
4 8 4 -4 8 5
Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1086-1087
Biscuit Dumplings, 835
Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071
Bisque
Lobster (Bisque de Homard), 348
Shrimp, 347
Black Bean(s)
Cakes, 9 7 8 -9 7 9
Chili, Vegetarian, 7 78-779
Crepes, Vegetarian, 770, 771
Frijoles a la Charra, 773
Frijoles Refritos, 771
Mash, 768
-Papaya Salsa, 955
with Peppers and Chorizo, 7 6 8 -7 6 9
Sauce, 458
Soup, Caribbean-Style Puree of, 345
Stewed, 775
RECIPE IN D E X
1191
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears

with Ricotta Cream and Sable
Cookies, 1139-1141
Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929
Black Ink Sauce, Baby Squid in
976
Black Peppercorn Dressing, Creamy,
904
Black Pepper Pasta, 819
Blitz Puff Pastry Dough, 1077
Blueberry
Compote, 1145
Muffins, 1078,1080
Pancakes, 1073
Blue Cheese
in Cobb Salad, 912, 913
Dressing, 904
Mousse, 953
Bluefish, Broiled, a lAnglaise with
Maitre dHotel Butter, 461
Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes
Boiled Carrots, 681
Boiled Edamame, 681
Boiled Parsley Potatoes, 736, 737
Boiled Rice, Basic, 785
Boiled White Beans, 777
Bok Choy, Stir-Fried Shanghai
(Qinchao Shanghai Baicai),
7 02-703
Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with Ragu
and Bechamel (Lasagna al
Forno), 826, 827
Bolognese), 296
Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and
Tomatoes, 561
Boules, 1034
Bouquet Garni, 774
Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni
(Braised Pork Rolls and
Sausage in Meat Sauce with
Rigatoni), 590 -5 9 1
Braised Fennel in Butter, 710
Braised Greens, 710
Braised Lamb Shanks, 604
Braised Oxtails, 581
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in
Meat Sauce with Rigatoni
(Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
Braised Red Cabbage, 711
Braised Romaine, 711
Braised Sauerkraut, 712
Braised Short Ribs, 584
Braised Short Ribs, Korean (Kalbi
Jjim), 582
Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom
Sausage, 598
Bran Muffins, 1078
Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with, 872
Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7
Bread(s), Quick. See also Muffins;
Scones
Banana-Nut, 1079,1080
Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071
Cornbread, 1079
Fried (Puri), 1074
Johnny Cakes, 1074
Pumpkin, 1080,1081
Soda Bread, Irish, 1072
Bread(s), Yeast
Baguettes, 1033
Boules, 1034
Brioche Loaf, 1040
Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041
Buns, Sticky, 1046
Challah (3-Braid), 1044
Ciabatta, 1036
Dough, Basic Lean, 1033
1192
REC IPE IN D E X
Dough, Sweet, 1045

Focaccia, 1034-1035
Naan, 1038,1039
Pita, 1037
Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037
Raisin, with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042,
1043
Rolls
Cottage Dill, 1039
Hard, 1036
Soft Dinner, 1045
Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106
Bread Crumbs
Gremolata, 601
Horseradish and Smoked Salmon
Crust, Salmon Fillet with,
486
Persillade, 477
Bread Dumplings, 835
Bread Salad
Eastern Mediterranean (Fattoush),
926
Panzanella, 927
Breast of Chicken with Duxelles
Stuffing and Supreme Sauce,
515
Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen
with Mushroom Forcemeat,
4 8 3 -4 8 4
Brine
Meat, 999
for Cantonese Pork Roast (Char
Siu), 466
Brioche Loaf, 1040
Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041
Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet Pickles,
47 2 -4 7 3
Broccoli
and Cheddar Quiche, 876
Soup, Cream of, 339
Steamed, 681
and Toasted Garlic, 681
Broccoli Rabe
with Garlic and Hot Crushed
Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con
Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705
Orecchiette with Italian Sausage,
Parmesan and, 820, 821
Brodo (Poultry and Meat Stock), 266
Broiled Bluefish a lAnglaise with
Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel,
455
Broiled Chicken Breasts with SunDried Tomato and Oregano
Butter, 454
Broiled Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento
Butter, 447
Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry
Vinegar Sauce, 450
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic, 969
Broiled Sirloin Steak with Maitre
dHotel Butter, 440
Broiled Sirloin Steak with Marchand
de Vin Sauce, 441
Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom
Sauce, 440
Broiled Stuffed Lobster, 4 6 0 -4 6 1
Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, with Bacon,
522
Broth. See also Consomme
Beef, 334
Chicken, 334
Fish, 334
Game, 334
Ham, 334
Lamb, 334
Pork, Smoked, 334
Saffron, with Fennel, Seafood
Poached in a, 570
Shellfish, 334
Turkey, 334
Veal, 334
Brownies, Fudge, 1090
Brown Rice Pilaf
with Pecans and Green Onions,
7 8 0 -7 8 1
Short-Grain, 781
Brown Stock
Chicken, 264
Duck, 264
Game (Jus de Gibier), 264
Lamb, 264
Pork, 264
Veal, 263
Buckwheat
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans,
799
Pasta, 819
Bulgur
Pilaf, -G reen Onion, 796-797
Salad, Sweet and Spicy, 800
Buns, Sticky, 1046
Burger, Chicken, 936
Burgundy Sauce, Beef Rouladen in,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Butter(s)
Apple, 1130
Basil, 300
Beurre Blanc, 298
Beurre Noisette, Potato and
Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with
Caramelized Onions, Sage
and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Dill, 300
Green Onion, 300
in Hollandaise Sauce, 298
Maitre dHotel, 300
Persillade, 477
Pimiento, 300
Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano,
300
Tarragon, 300
Buttercream, Italian, 1125
Buttermilk
Biscuits, 1070-1071
Chicken, Fried, 516-517
Johnny Cakes, 1074
Muffin Recipe, Basic, 1078
Pancakes, 1073
Butternut Squash
Puree, 691
in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784
Butterscotch Sauce, 1137
C
Cabbage
Coleslaw, 920
Coleslaw, Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1
in Corned Beef with Winter
Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7
Dim Sum, 837
in Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie),
840, 841
in Potage Garbure, 346
Red, Braised, 711
Salad, Warm, 506
Sauerkraut, Homemade, 593
Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Caesar Salad, 908
Caesar-Style Dressing, 902
Cake(s)
Angel Food, 1082
Cheesecake, 1084
Chocolate XS, 1083
Date Spice, 1137
Date Spice, Warm, with
Butterscotch Sauce and
Cinnamon Ice Cream,
1134-1138
Devils Food, 1082
Pound, 1081
Sponge, Chocolate, 1083
Sponge, Vanilla, 1083
California Rolls, 981
Canja (Chicken Rice Soup), 336
Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Siu), 466
Caper-Anchovy Mayonnaise, 903
Caramelized Apples, 4 48,1138
Caramelized Onion Quiche, 876
Caramel Sauce
Classic, 1129,1153
Vanilla, 1159
Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean
Soup, 345
Carolina Barbecue, 4 6 8 -4 6 9
Carpaccio
Beef, 982
Tuna (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta),
964, 965
Carrot(s)
Boiled, 681
Glazed, 685
Pan-Steamed, 684
Pasta, 819
Pecan, 684
Roasted, 695
Salad, Moroccan, 920
Cashew Noodles, Tempeh, 824, 825
Cassoulet, 594
Catalina French Dressing, 902
Cauliflower
Curried Roasted, 692
and Millet Puree, 796
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918
Celery
and Smoked Bean Curd Salad, 908
Soup, Cream of (Creme de Celeri),
339
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963
Cha Ca Thang Long (Hanoi Fried Fish
with Dill), 527
Challah (3-Braid), 1044
Chantilly Cream (Creme Chantilly),
1023,1146
Orange-Scented, 1138
Chao Tom (Grilled Shrimp Paste on
Sugarcane), 977
Charcutiere Sauce, 508
Char Siu (Cantonese Pork Roast), 466
Chateau Potatoes, 740
Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada
de Xuxu), 919
Cheddar
and Beer Soup, Wisconsin, 340
Omelet, Souffleed, 874
and Potato-Filled Pierogi with
Caramelized Onions, Beurre
Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Quiche, and Broccoli, 876
Sauce, 294
Scones, and Ham, 1072
Cheese. See also specific cheeses
in Chefs Salad, 909
Croque Monsieur, 937
Deviled Eggs with, 866
Melt, Three-, 940
Mornay Sauce, 295
Omelet, 873
Omelet, and Meat, 873
Omelet, and Vegetable, 873
in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Scrambled Eggs with, 872
Souffle, Savory, 874
in Taco Salad, 913
Cheesecake, 1084
Chef Clarks Southwest-Style Sauce,
4 7 2 -4 7 3
Chefs Salad, 909
Cherry(ies)
-Chocolate Chunk Cookies, 1088
Duck Terrine with Pistachios and

Dried, 1002-1003
Pie, 1126
Sauce, Dried, 1130
Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges,
Pecans and, 798, 799
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes, 968,
969
Chestnut Stuffing, 486
Chicken
Breast, Barbecued, with Black Bean
Sauce, 458
Breast of, with Duxelles Stuffing
and Supreme Sauce, 515
Breast, Poached, with Tarragon
Sauce, 563
Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with
Sun-Dried Tomato and
Oregano Butter, 454
Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with
Fennel, 455
Broth, 334
Burger, 936
in Congee, 795
Consomme, Royale, 333
and Crayfish Terrine, 9 9 6,1005
Farmhouse, with Angel Biscuits,
564
Fricassee, 612
Fried, Buttermilk, 516-517
Galantine, 1000-1001,1005
Gumbo, and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9
Jus de Volaille Lie, 293
and Lamb Stew, Couscous with,
609
Legs with Duxelles Stuffing, 482
Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9
Mousseline, 996
in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
Paillards of, Grilled, with Tarragon
Butter, 455
and Prawn Ragout (Mar i
Muntanya), 612-613
Provencal, 501
Roast, with Pan Gravy, 482
Salad, 923
Salad, Hue-Style, 924
Sauteed, with Fines Herbes Sauce,
500
Smoked, Pan-, 483
Soup, and Com, Amish, 334
Soup, Rice (Canja), 336
Soup, Thai, with Coconut Milk and
Galangal, 353
Soup, Tortilla, 335
Stock, 263
Stock, Brown, 264
Tagine, 610-611
Tangerine-Flavored, Crispy, 524-525
in Udon Noodle Pot, 566
with Vegetables (Poule au Pot), 565
Veloute, 294
Chicken Liver(s)
Chasseur, Poached Eggs with, 871
Omelet Opera, 873
Pate, 1004,1005
Pate Grand-Mere, 994
Chickpeas
Falafel, 776
Hummus bi Tahini, 958
Middle Eastern, 774
Chiles
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow
Pepper Sauce, 510-511
Chili Powder, 368
Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896
Dipping Sauce, Vietnamese, 956
Game Hens, Jerked, 459
595
Harissa, 959
Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9
Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno,
5 2 8 -5 2 9
Salsa Roja, 954
Salsa Verde Cruda, 954
Tortilla Soup, 335
in Zhug, 960
Chili, Vegetarian, 778-7 7 9
Chili Powder, 368
Chinese Five-Spice Powder, 368
Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La
Tang), 350
Chinese Sausage, Fried Rice with, 787
Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896
Chips
Apple, 1136
Coconut, 1150
Plantain, Fried, 708, 709
Sweet Potato, 746, 747
Tortilla, 962
Chocolate
Beignet Batter, 1154
Brownies, Fudge, 1090
Cake, XS, 1083
Cinnamon Sticks, Milk Chocolate,
1136
Cookies, Chunk, 1088
Cookies, Chunk, Cherry-, 1088
Cookies, Mudslide, 1089
Eclairs, 1085
Ganache, Hard, 1128
Graham Decor, 1152
Ice Cream, 1102,1103
Mousse, 1104
Pastry Cream, 1098
Pate a Choux, 1160
Sauce, 1129,1159
Souffle, 1106
Sponge Cake, 1083
Straws, 1160
Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153
Chocolate Chip Pancakes, 1073
Chorizo
Black Beans with Peppers and,
76 8 -7 6 9
Choron Sauce, 297
Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3
Chowder
Clam, Manhattan-Style, 344
Clam, New England-Style, 340
Conch, 341
Corn, 341
Seafood, Pacific, 342
Chutney
Mango, Fresh, 453
Mango, Spicy, 961
Mint and Yogurt, 462
Ciabatta, 1036
CIA Club, 934, 935
Cider. See Apple Cider
Cilantro
-Lime Soy Sauce, 956
Sorbet, 1149
Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e
Pepperoncino (Broccoli Rabe
with Garlic and Hot Crushed
Pepper), 705
Cinnamon
Ice Cream, 1135
Smear, 1046
Sticks, Milk Chocolate, 1136
Sugar, 1043
Swirl, Raisin Bread with, 1042,
1043
Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Cipollini Onions, Grilled Lamb Chops
with Rosemary, Artichokes
and, 451
Citrus
Honey-Poppy Seed Dressing, 898
Marinade, Latin (Mojo), 373
Pasta, 819
Clam(s)
Casino, 9 6 6 -9 6 7
Chowder, Manhattan-Style, 344
Chowder, New England-Style, 340
in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
in Fishermans Platter, 520
in New England Shore Dinner,
560, 561
Sea Bass, Poached, with Bacon,
Peppers and, 553
Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu
and Bechamel (Lasagna al
Forno), 826, 827
Classic Caramel Sauce, 1129,1153
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad
(Mizeria Klasyczna), 920
Club, CIA, 934, 935
Cobb Salad, 912, 913
Coconut
Chips, 1150
Flans, 1150
Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596
Macadamia Shrimp, 966
Milk, Thai Chicken Soup with
Galangal and, 353
Rice, 7 8 2 -7 8 3
in Vatapa, 512
Cod
Fish Kebabs, 462
New England Shore Dinner,
5 6 0 -5 6 1
Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521
Coddled Eggs, 866
Coffee Ice Cream, 1102,1103
for Profiteroles, 1156,1158
Coleslaw, 920
Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1
Collard Greens
Braised, 710
and Ham Bone Soup, 350
Common Meringue, 1024
Compote
Blueberry, 1145
Cranberry-Orange, 689
Conch Chowder, 341
Confit
Duck, 595
Red Onion, Noisettes of Pork with,
506
Congee, 795
Consomme
Beef, 333
Chicken, Royale, 333
Converted White Rice Pilaf, 780
Cookie Dough 1-2-3,1086
Cookies
Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1 0 8 6 -1 0 8 7
Chocolate Chunk, 1088
Chocolate Chunk, Cherry-, 1088
Mudslide, 1089
Oatmeal-Raisin, 1089
Pecan Diamonds, 1088
Sable, 1140
Tuile Nut, 1090
Tuiles, 1144
Corn
Chicken Rice Soup (Canja), 336
and Chicken Soup, Amish, 334
Chowder, 341
Creamed, 683
Fritters, 707
Grits with Hominy and, 794, 795
and Jicama Salad, 921
5 6 0 -5 6 1
Risotto Cakes, and Asiago Cheese,

805
Cornbread, 1079
Johnny Cakes, 1074
Corned Beef
Hash, Poached Eggs with, 869
Reuben Sandwich, 942
with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7
Corn Flake Crunch, 1159
Cornmeal
Hush Puppies, 836, 837
Johnny Cakes, 1074
Corn Muffins, 1079
Corona Beans (Fagioli alPUccelletto),
772
Cottage Dill Rolls, 1039
Coulis
Raspberry, 1129
Red Pepper, 299
Strawberry, 1146
Tomato, 296
Country Gravy, 516, 517
Country-Style Terrine (Pate de
Campagne), 998
Court Bouillon, 265
Couscous, 826
and Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of
(Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9
Lamb and Chicken Stew with, 609
Crab
Cakes, Chesapeake-Style, 968, 969
Stuffed Shrimp, 970
Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad,
802, 803
Cranberry
-Orange Compote, 689
-Orange Muffins, 1078
-Pecan Pie, 1126
Relish, 961
Crayfish and Chicken Terrine, 996,
1005
Cream(ed). See also Cream Soup(s);
Custard; Pastry Cream; Sour
Cream
Chantilly (Creme Chantilly), 1023,
1146
Chantilly, Orange-Scented, 1138
Corn, 683
Diplomat, 1103
Mousseline Sauce, 298
Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados),
772
Ricotta, 1140
Sauce, 295
Scones, 1072
Cream Cheese
Cheesecake, 1084
Herbed, Cucumber Sandwich
with, 943
Cream Soup(s)
of Asparagus (Creme dArgenteuil),
339
of Broccoli, 339
of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339
of Tomato, 339
of Tomato, with Rice, 339
Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing,
904
Creme dArgenteuil (Cream of
Asparagus Soup), 339
Creme Brulee, 1099
Creme Caramel, 1100-1101
Creme de Celeri (Cream of Celery
Soup), 339
Creme Chantilly, 1023,1146
Orange-Scented, 1138
Crepes
Black Bean, Vegetarian, 770, 771
Dessert, 1076
Saigon, 804
Suzette, 1075
RECIPE IN D E X
1 193
Crispy Shallots, 924

Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken,
524 -5 2 5
Croquette Potatoes, 748
Croquettes, Rice, 792
Croutons, 965
Garlic-Flavored, 563
Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta (Tuna
Carpaccio), 964, 965
Crumb Crust, 1051
Crust(ed)
Ancho-, Salmon with Yellow Pepper
Sauce, 510-511
Crumb, 1051
Graham Cracker, 1084,1146
Graham Cracker, for Smores, 1152
Herb, Barbecued Steak with, 445
Horseradish and Smoked Salmon,
Salmon Fillet with, 486
Persillade, 477
Cucumber(s)
Barley Salad with Mint and, 800,
801
Dressing, 903
and Onion Salad (Kachumber), 919
Salad, 9 2 2 -9 2 3
Salad, Polish, Classic (Mizeria
Klasyczna), 920
Salad, Yogurt, 923
Sandwich with Herbed Cream
Cheese, 943
Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with,
688
and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo),
922
Yogurt Sauce, 957
Cumberland Sauce, 955
Curry(ied)
Cauliflower, Roasted, 692
Goat with Green Papaya Salad, 608
Mayonnaise, Apple Sandwich
with, 943
Onion Relish, 961
Pasta, 819
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce, 596
Rice Salad, 930
Sweet Potato Salad, 749
Vinaigrette, 898
Vinaigrette, Guava-, 899
Curry Paste
Green, 370
Red, 370
Yellow, 371
Curry Powder, 369
Custard. See also Quiche(s)
Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106
Coconut Flans, 1150
Creme Brulee, 1099
Creme Caramel, 1100-1101
Goat Cheese, Warm, 875
Royale, 333
Sabayon, 1129
Vanilla Sauce, 1099
Zabaglione, 1129
Caramel, Classic, 1129,1153

Caramel, Vanilla 1159
Cherry, Dried, 1130
Chocolate, 1129,1159
Vanilla, 1099
White, 1154
Deviled Eggs, 8 6 6 -8 6 7
with Cheese, 866
with Greens, 866
with Tomato, 866
Devils Food Cake, 1082
Dill
Butter, 300
Cottage Rolls, 1039
Hanoi Fried Fish with (Cha Ca
Thang Long), 527
Sauce, 447
Dim Sum, 837
Dinner Rolls, Soft, 1045
Diplomat Cream, 1103
Dipping Sauce
Asian, 956
Cilantro-Lime Soy, 956
Ginger-Soy, 841
Spring Roll, 957
Tempura, 523
Vietnamese, 956
Dough. See also Pasta Dough, Fresh
Egg; Pastry Dough
Cookie 1-2-3,1086
Lean, Basic, 1033
Pate, 1006-1007
Pate, Saffron, 1006
Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037
Samosas, 970
Sweet, 1045
Dried Cherry Sauce, 1130
Duchesse Potatoes, 737
Duck
Confit, 595
Jus de Canard Lie, 293
Roast Duckling with Sauce
Bigarade, 4 8 4 -4 8 5
Stock, Brown, 264
Terrine with Pistachios and Dried
Cherries, 1002-1003
Terrine, and Smoked Ham,
1004-1005
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 1156,1158
Dumplings. See also Gnocchi
Biscuit, 835
Bread, 835
Dim Sum, 837
Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841
Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled,
with Caramelized Onions,
Beurre Noisette, and Sage,
8 4 2 -8 4 3
Potstickers, 837
Spatzle, 834
Steamed (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9
Duxelles Stuffing, 482
Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad

(Fattoush), 926
Eclairs, 1085
Chocolate, 1085
Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681
Egg(s). See also Custard; Deviled
Eggs; Omelet(s); Quiche(s);
Souffle(s)
Benedict, 870, 871
Coddled, 866
Florentine, 871
French Toast, 878
Fried, 871
Fried, in Bibimbap, 514
Hard-Cooked, 866
Daikon Salad, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922

Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267
Date Spice Cake, Warm, with
Cinnamon Ice Cream,
1134-1138
Deep-Fried Onions, 581
Delmonico Potatoes, 740
Demi-Glace, 293
Dessert Crepes, 1076
Dessert Sauce
Basil, 1145
Butterscotch, 1137
1194
REC IPE IN D E X
Hard-Cooked, in Chefs Salad, 909

Medium-Cooked, 866
Omelet, White, Plain Rolled, 873
Over Easy, Medium or Hard, 871
Pickled, 868
Pickled, Red, 8 6 8
Poached, 868
American-Style, 871
with Chicken Liver Chasseur,
871
with Corned Beef Hash, 869
Farmer-Style, 869
Massena, 869
Mornay, 869
with Mushrooms, 869
with Smoked Salmon, 871
Salad, 925
Scrambled, 872
with Bratwurst, 872
with Cheese, 872
Gratine, 872
Greek-Style, 872
Hunter-Style, 872
Whites, 872
Soft-Cooked, 866
Wash, 1023
White Omelet, Plain Rolled, 873
Whites, Scrambled, 872
Egg Pasta. See Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg
Eggplant
Baba Ghanoush, 958
Filling, Marinated, 939
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with
Manchego Cheese, 940
Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686
Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790,
791
Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7
and Prosciutto Panini, 938, 939
Ratatouille, 708
in Scrambled Eggs, Greek-Style, 872
Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701
Emince of Swiss-Style Veal, 502, 503
Empanada Gallega de Cerdo (Pork and
Pepper Pie), 984
Endive. See Belgian Endive
Escarole and White Bean Soup,
Tuscan, 355
Espagnole Sauce, 294
Estouffade, 264
European-Style Potato Salad, 926
Fagioli allUccelletto (Corona Beans),

772
Falafel, 776
Farmer-Style Omelet, 873
Farmer-Style Poached Eggs, 869
Farmhouse Chicken with Angel
Biscuits, 564
Fattoush (Eastern Mediterranean
Bread Salad), 926
Fennel
Braised, in Butter, 710
with Chicken Breasts, Grilled or
Broiled, 455
Saffron Broth with, Seafood
Poached in a, 570
Fig-Almond Vinaigrette, 897
Fillet of Mahi Mahi with PineappleJicama Salsa, 459
Fillet of Snapper en Papillote,
5 5 8 -5 5 9
Fines Herbes, 369
Fines Herbes Sauce, 500
Fire-Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette, 899
Fish. See also Anchovy(ies); Salmon;
Sole; Trout; Tuna
Bass and Scallops en Papillote, 553
Bass, Sea, Poached, with Clams,

Bacon, and Peppers, 553
Bluefish, Broiled, a lAnglaise with
Broth, 334
Cakes, Fried, 528
Cakes, Salt Cod, Old-Fashioned, 521
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963
Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342
Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Fishermans Platter, 520
Flounder a lOrly, 522
Flounder Mousseline, 993
Fried with Dill, Hanoi (Cha Ca
Thang Long), 527
Fumet, 264
Kebabs, 462
Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with
Pineapple-Jicama Salsa, 459
Marinade, 372
New England Shore Dinner, 560,561
Omelet, Seafood, 873
Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009
Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3
Pescado Veracruzana, 562
Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth
with Fennel, 570
Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers,
and Tomatoes, 561
Snapper, Fillet of, en Papillote,
5 5 8 -5 5 9
Snapper, Red, with Grapefruit
Salsa, 509
Vatapa, 512
Veloute, 294
Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368
Flank Steak, in Brazilian Mixed Grill,
4 5 6 -4 5 7
Flans, Coconut, 1150
Flounder
Mousseline, 993
a lOrly, 522
Focaccia, 1034-1035
Foie Gras
in Beef Wellington, 463
Roulade, 1001
Terrine, 1001
Fontina Risotto Fritters, 804
Forcemeat. See also Pate; Terrine
Chicken Galantine, 1000-1001,
1005
Mushroom, 484
Pork Tenderloin Roulade, 999
Stuffing, Herbed, 605
Frangipane Filling, 1128
Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128
French Dressing, Catalina, 902
French-Fried Potatoes, 747
French-Style Peas, 712
French Toast, 878
Fresh Egg Pasta, 819
Fresh Mango Chutney, 453
Fricassee
Chicken, 612
Veal, 612
Fried Bread (Puri), 1074
Fried Eggs, 871
Fried Fish Cakes, 528
Fried Plantain Chips, 708, 709
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage, 787
Frijoles a la Charra, 773
Frijoles Maneados (Creamed Pinto
Beans), 772
Frijoles Refritos, 771
Fritters
Corn, 707
Fontina Risotto, 804
Frogs Legs, in Seafood Ravigote, 930
Fruit(s). See also specific fruits
Salsa, 1130
Sauce, Winter, 505
Fudge Brownies, 1090
Fumet, Fish, 264
Gaisburger Marsch (Boiled Beef with

Spatzle and Potatoes), 570
Galangal, Thai Chicken Soup with
Coconut Milk and, 353
Galantine, Chicken, 1 0 0 0-1001,1005
Game
Broth, 334
Jus de Gibier Lie, 293
Marinade, Red Wine, 372
Stock, Brown (Jus de Gibier), 264
Venison Terrine, 1002
Game Hen(s)
Jerked, 459
Mushroom Forcemeat, 484
Rock Cornish, Breast of, with
Mushroom Forcemeat, 483
Ganache, Hard, 1128
Gar am Masala, 368
Garbanzo Beans. See Chickpeas
Garlic
Aioli, 904
Broccoli Rabe with Hot Crushed
Pepper and (Cime di Broccoli
con Aglio e Pepperoncino),
705
Croutons, -Flavored, 563
in Gremolata, 601
in Persillade, 477
in Picada, 612-613
Sauce, Sweet, 524
Toasted, and Broccoli, 681
Vinaigrette, -Lemon, 896
Vinaigrette, Roasted Garlic and
Mustard, 896
Gazpacho), 349
German Potato Salad, 749
Gigot a la Bretonne (Roast Leg of
Lamb with Haricots Blancs),
480
Ginger(ed)
Pickled, 962
Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, 684
-Soy Dipping Sauce, 841
with Sweet Potatoes, Mashed,
738-739
Glaâge, Royal, 557
Glaze(d)
Apricot, 1130
Beets, 682, 683
Carrots, 685
Ganache, Hard, 1128
Soy-Sesame, Grilled Shiitake
Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7
Sweet Potatoes, 738
Gnocchi
Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3
di Ricotta, 831
di Semolina Gratinati, 831
Goat, Curried, with Green Papaya
Salad, 608
Goat Cheese
Custard, Warm, 875
Mousse, 953
Mushroom Strudel with, 978
Vegetable Terrine with, 1010
Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich, 944
Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs),
1084
Goulash
Beef, 599
Pork, 599
Szekely (Szekely Gulyas), 597
Graham Cracker
Chocolate Decor, 1152
Crust, 1084,1146
Crust, for Smores, 1152
Ice Cream, 1151
Grandmothers Bean Curd (Ma Po
Dofu), 526, 527
Grapefruit
Baby Spinach, and Avocado Salad,
918
Salsa, 955
Gratin Dauphinoise (Potatoes au
Gratin), 739
Gravlax, 1011
Gravy
Country, 516, 517
Pan, Roast Chicken with, 482
Pan, Roast Turkey with Chestnut
Stuffing and, 4 8 5 -4 8 6
Greek Salad, 910, 911
Greek-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872
Green Beans
Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684
with Walnuts, 685
Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595
Green Curry Paste, 370
Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596
Green Goddess Dressing, 901
Green Lentil Salad (Salade des
Lentilles du Puy), 928
Green Mayonnaise, 903
Green Onion(s)
Beef and Scallions, Skewered, 446
Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and,
780 -7 8 1
-Bulgur Pilaf, 7 9 6 -7 9 7
Butter, 300
Oil, 907
Green Papaya Salad, 921
Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Bisi), 783
Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Pork
with Pineapple and, 504
Greens
Braised, 710
Gremolata, 601
Grilled Chicken Breasts with Fennel,
455
Grilled Chicken Breasts with SunDried Tomato and Oregano
Butter, 454
Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary,
Artichokes, and Cipollini
Onions, 451
Grilled Meats, Red Wine Marinade
for, 374
Grilled Paillards of Chicken with
Tarragon Butter, 455
Grilled Pork Chops with Sherry
Vinegar Sauce, 450
Grilled Rib Eye Steak, 446
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with SoySesame Glaze, 6 8 6 - 6 8 7
Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane
(Chao Tom), 977
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Maitre
dHotel Butter, 440
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Marchand
de Vin Sauce, 441
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom
Sauce, 440
Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops,
4 4 8 -4 4 9
Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya, 7 9 0 -7 9 1
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with
Manchego Cheese, 940, 941
Grilled Vegetables Provenâl-Style, 686
Grits with Corn and Hominy, 794, 795

Gruyere Cheese Puffs (Gougeres),
1084
Guacamole, 958
Guava
Barbecue Sauce, 467
-Curry Vinaigrette, 899
-Glazed Pork Ribs, 467
Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp,
3 4 8 -3 4 9
Guo Tie (Pan-Fried Dumplings),
840, 841
Ham
Broth, 334
in Club, CIA, 934, 935
Salad, 925
Scones, and Cheddar, 1072
Smoked, and Duck Terrine,
1004-1005
Soup, Ham Bone and Collard
Greens, 350
Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca
Thang Long), 527
Hard-Cooked Eggs, 866
Hard Rolls, 1036
Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb
with (Gigot a la Bretonne),
48 0
Haricots Verts, Pan-Steamed, 684
Harissa, 959
Hash, Corned Beef, Poached Eggs
with, 869
Hash Brown Potatoes, 740-741
Herb(s), Herbed. See also specific herbs
Bouquet Garni, 774
Cream Cheese, Cucumber
Sandwich with, 943
Crust, Barbecued Steak with, 445
Fines Herbes, 369
Fines Herbes Sauce, 500
Forcemeat Stuffing, 605
Mayonnaise, 943
Omelet, 873
Pasta, 819
Rub, 982
Sachet dEpices, 599
Salt, 481
Vinaigrette, -Mustard, 896
Vinaigrette, and Truffle, 900
Hoagie, Philly, 934
Hollandaise Sauce, 298
Lemony, Asparagus with, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9
Homemade Sauerkraut, 593
Hominy, Grits with Corn and, 794, 795
Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus Dressing,
898
Horseradish and Smoked Salmon
Crust, Salmon Fillet with,
486
Apimentado), 457
Hot and Sour Soup
Chinese (Suan La Tang), 350
Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354
Hue-Style Chicken Salad, 924
Hummus bi Tahini, 958
Hunter-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872
Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand

Island Dressing, 909
Ice Cream
Basil, 1143-1144
Chocolate, 1102,1103
Cinnamon, 1135
Coffee, 1102,1103
Coffee, for Profiteroles, 1156,1158
Dulce de Leche, 1156,1158
Graham Cracker, 1151
Profiteroles, -Filled, 1085
Raspberry, 1103
Vanilla, 1102,1103
Vanilla, for Profiteroles, 1156,1157
Ichi Ban Dashi, 267
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh
Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3
Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli (Tuna and
Bean Salad), 975
Irish Soda Bread, 1072
Irish Stew, 608
Italian Buttercream, 1125
Italian Meringue, 1024
Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790-791

Japanese Salad Dressing, 905
Jap Chae (Stir-Fried Glass Noodles),
822
Jardiniere Vegetables, 705
Jelly Omelet, 873
Jerked Game Hens, 459
Jerk Seasoning, 459
Jicama
and Corn Salad, 921
-Pineapple Salsa, 459
Salad, 921
Johnny Cakes, 1074
Julienne Vegetables, 706
Jus, Standing Rib Roast au, 464
Jus Lie
dAgneau (Lamb), 293
de Canard (Duck), 293
de Gibier (Game), 293
Pork Roast with, 465
de Veau (Veal), 293
de Volaille (Chicken), 293
Kachumber (Onion and Cucumber

Salad), 919
Kalbi Jjim (Korean Braised Short
Ribs), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Kale, Braised, 710
Kao Paigu (Lacquer-Roasted Pork
Ribs), 476
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, 799
Kebabs. See also Skewers, Skewered
Fish, 462
Lamb, with Pimiento Butter,
Broiled, 447
Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with
Portobello Mushrooms and,
971
Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147
Kombu, in Ichi Ban Dashi, 266
Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalbi
Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao

Paigu), 476
Lamb, 227
Broth, 334
in Cassoulet, 594
and Chicken Stew, Couscous with,
609
Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary,
Artichokes, and Cipollini
Onions, 451
Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango
Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3
Jus dAgneau Lie, 293
RECIPE IN D E X
1195
Lamb, continued
Kebabs with Pimiento Butter,
Broiled, 447
Khorma, 607
Leg of, Roast, Boulangere, 476
Leg of, Roast, with Haricots Blancs
(Gigot a la Bretonne), 480
Leg of, Roast, with Mint Sauce, 481
Leg of, Stuffed, Portuguese, 605
Marinade, 373
Navarin, 606
Patties, Pakistani-Style, 454
Rack of, Roast, Persille, 477
Shanks, Braised, 604
Shoulder of, Roasted, and Couscous
(Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9
Stew, Irish, 608
Stock, Brown, 264
Lasagna
Asparagus and White Bean, 829
Bolognese, Classic, with Ragu and
Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno),
826, 827
di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6
Latin Citrus Marinade (Mojo), 373
Latkes, Potato, 743
Lean Dough, Basic, 1033
Leek and Tomato Quiche, 876
Lemon(s)
Asparagus with Lemony
Hollandaise, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9
Curd, 1145
Meringue Pie, 1127
Preserved, 611
Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream
and Blueberry Compote,
1142-1145
Vinaigrette, -Garlic, 896
Vinaigrette, -Parsley, 896
Lentil Salad, Green (Salade des
Lentilles du Puy), 928
Lentil Soup, Puree of, 344
Lima Beans, Roman-Style, 774
Lime
-Cilantro Soy Sauce, 956
Lobster
Bisque (Bisque de Homard), 348
Broiled Stuffed, 4 6 0 -4 6 1
560 -5 6 1
Salad with Beets, Mangos,
Avocados, and Orange Oil,
983
Lo Han (Steamed Long-Grain Rice),
785
Lorette Potatoes, 748
Lyonnaise Potatoes, 739
m
Macadamia Coconut Shrimp, 966
Macedoine of Vegetables, 706
Madeira Sauce, 463
Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with PineappleJicama Salsa, 459
Maltaise Sauce, 298
Malt Vinegar and Peanut Oil Dressing,
900
Mamuang Kao Nieo (Thai Sticky Rice
with Mangos), 787
Manchego Cheese, Grilled Vegetable
Sandwich with, 940, 941
Mango(s)
Chutney, Fresh, 453
Chutney, Spicy, 961
Ketchup, Tofu Cakes with
971
1196
REC IPE IN D E X
Lobster Salad with Beets, Avocado,

Orange Oil and, 983
and Passion-Poached Pineapple
with Coconut Flan and
Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150
Sticky Rice, Thai, with (Mamuang
Kao Nieo), 787
Manhattan-Style Clam Chowder, 344
Maple Pecans, Spicy, Kasha with, 799
Ma Po Dofu (Grandmothers Tofu),
527
Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441
Margherita Pizza, 1037
Mar i Muntanya (Chicken and Prawn
Ragout), 612-613
Marinade(s)
Asian-Style, 372
Barbecue, 372
for Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce,
9 8 2 -9 8 3
for Beef and Scallions, Skewered,
446
for Bibimbap, 514
for Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7
for Chicken Breast, Barbecued,
with Black Bean Sauce, 458
for Chicken Paillards, Grilled, with
Tarragon Butter, 455
for Chicken, Pan-Smoked, 483
for Chicken, Tangerine-Flavored,
Crispy, 5 2 4 -5 2 5
Citrus, Latin (Mojo), 373
Eggplant Filling, Marinated, 939
Fish, 372
for Fish Kebabs, 462
Lamb, 373
for Lamb Chops, Grilled, with
Rosemary, Artichokes, and
Cipollini Onions, 451
for Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh
for Lamb Khorma, 607
Peppers, Marinated Roasted, 694,
695
for Pork, Cantonese Roast (Char
Siu), 466
for Pork Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467
for Pork Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao
Paigu), 476
for Pork and Veal Skewers
(Raznijci), 447
for Pork Vindaloo, 596
Red Wine Game, 372
Red Wine, for Grilled Meats, 374
for Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446
for Sauerbraten, 587
for Shrimp, Coconut Macadamia,
966
Teriyaki, 374
for Teriyaki, Beef, 445
Vegetables, Marinated Grilled, 686
for Vegetable Terrine with Goat
Cheese, 1010
Marinated Eggplant Filling, 939
Marinated Grilled Vegetables, 686
Marinated Roasted Peppers, 694, 695
Marmalade, Roasted Red Pepper, 960
Marsala Sauce, 463, 504
Marshmallow, 1152
Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Ginger,
738-739
Mayonnaise, 903
Ai'oli, 904
Anchovy-Caper, 903
for Cole Slaw, 470
Curry, Apple Sandwich with, 943
Green, 903
Herb, Watercress Sandwich with,
943
Remoulade Sauce, 520
Tartar Sauce, 903
Meat. See also specific meats

Brine, 999
and Cheese Omelet, 873
in Chefs Salad, 909
in Philly Hoagie, 934
Sauce, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese),
296
Sauce, Pork Rolls and Sausage
in, Braised, with Rigatoni
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for,
371
Stock, and Poultry (Brodo), 266
Mechoui (Roasted Shoulder of Lamb
and Couscous), 4 7 8 -4 7 9
Medium-Cooked Eggs, 866
Melon Salad, Summer, with
Prosciutto, 919
Meringue
Common, 1024
Italian, 1024
Lemon Meringue Pie, 1127
Swiss, 1024
Middle Eastern Chickpeas, 774
Milanese Sauce, 519
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks, 1136
Millet and Cauliflower Puree, 796
Minestrone alia Emiliana (Vegetable
Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style),
357
Mint
Barley Salad with Cucumber and,
800, 801
Sauce (Paloise), 297
Sauce, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481
and Yogurt Chutney, 462
Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696
Miso Soup, 353
Mixed Bean Salad, 929
Mixed Grain Pilaf, 796
Mixed Green Salad, 907
Mixed Grill, Brazilian, 4 5 6 -4 5 7
Mizeria Klasyczna (Classic Polish
Cucumber Salad), 920
Mojo (Latin Citrus Marinade), 373
Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9
Molho Apimentado (Hot Pepper
Sauce), 457
Monkfish, in Vatapa, 512
Mornay Sauce, 295
Poached Eggs, 869
Scrambled Eggs Gratine, 872
Moroccan Carrot Salad, 920
Moules a la Mariniere (Mussels with
White Wine and Shallots),
974, 975
Mousse
Blue Cheese, 953
Chocolate, 1104
Goat Cheese, 953
Raspberry, 1104-1105
Saffron, Poached Trout with,
5 5 4 -5 5 5
Smoked Salmon, 953
Mousseline
Chicken, 996
Flounder, 993
Pork, 999
Salmon, 555, 993
Sauce, 298
Sole, 555
Trout and Saffron, 555
Mozzarella
in Cracked Wheat and Tomato
Salad, 8 02, 803
in Eggplant Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7
Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana,
8 2 5 -8 2 6
and Tomato Salad, 928
Mu Chae (Sliced Daikon Salad), 922
Mudslide Cookies, 1089

Muffin(s)
Basic Recipe, 1078
Blueberry, 1078,1080
Bran, 1078
Corn, 1079
Cranberry-Orange, 1078
Mushroom(s)
in Bean Curd, Grandmothers (Ma
Po Dofu), 526,527
Beets, and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and Walnuts,
916, 917
Duxelles Stuffing, Chicken Legs
with, 482
Forcemeat, 484
in Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605
in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap
Chae), 822
Omelet Marcel, 873
Poached Eggs with, 869
Portobello, Tofu Cakes with Mango
Ketchup and, 971
Quesadillas with Two Salsas, 700
Risotto, Wild Mushroom, 783
in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784
Sauce, 440
Sauce, Bercy, 830
Sausage, 598
Shiitake, Grilled, with Soy-Sesame
Glaze, 6 8 6 -6 8 7
Strudel with Goat Cheese, 978
Supreme Sauce, 294
Vegetable Sandwich, Grilled, with
Manchego Cheese, 940
Mussels
560, 561
Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
Ravigote, Seafood, 930
Risotto with, 784
with White Wine and Shallots
(Moules a la Mariniere), 975
Mustard
Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina
Eastern Low Country Sauce),
4 69
Spicy, 960
Vinaigrette, -Herb, 896
Vinaigrette, and Roasted Garlic, 896
Naan Bread, 1038,1039

New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561
New England-Style Clam Chowder,
340
New Mexican Green Chile Stew, 595
Niban Dashi, 266
Noisettes of Pork with Green
Peppercorns and Pineapple,
504
Noisettes of Pork with Red Onion
Confit, 506
Noodle(s)
Glass, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822
Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3
Soup, Beef (Pho Bo), 569
Summer Squash, 704
Tempeh Cashew, 824, 825
Udon Noodle Pot, 566
North Carolina Eastern Low Country
Sauce (Mustard Barbecue
Sauce), 469
North Carolina Piedmont Sauce, 469
North Carolina Western Barbecue
Sauce, 469
Nut-Banana Bread, 1079,1080
Nut Tuile Cookies, 1090
o
Oatmeal Cookies, -Raisin, 1089
Oatmeal Pancakes, 1073
Octopus Fairground Style (Pulpo a
Feira), 976
Oil(s)
Basil, 906
Green Onion, 907
Orange, 907
Paprika, 907
Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes, 521
Olives
in Greek Salad, 910, 911
Provencal Sauce, 501
Tapenade, 959
Omelet(s)
Cheddar, Soufleed, 874
Cheese, 873
Cheese and Vegetable, 873
Egg White, Plain Rolled, 873
Farmer-Style, 873
Florentine, 873
Herb, 873
Jelly, 873
Marcel, 873
Meat and Cheese, 873
Opera, 873
Plain Rolled, 8 7 2 -8 7 3
Potato (Tortilla Espanola), 979
Seafood, 873
Shellfish, 873
Spanish, 873
Tomato, 873
Western, 873
for Wonton Soup, 354 -3 5 5
1-2-3 Cookie Dough, 1086
Onion(s)
Cipollini, Grilled Lamb Chops
with Rosemary, Artichokes
and, 451
and Cucumber Salad (Kachumber),
919
Deep-Fried, 581
Deep-Fried, Baked Potatoes with,
735
Quiche, Caramelized, 876
Red, Confit, Noisettes of Pork
with, 506
Red, Pickled, 962
Relish, Curried, 961
Soup, 335
Soup Gratinee, 335
Soup, White, 335
Sweet and Sour, Open-Faced Turkey
Sandwich with, 937
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with
Sweet and Sour Onions, 937
Orange(s)
Chayote Salad with (Salada de
Xuxu), 919
-Cranberry Compote, 689
-Cranberry Muffins, 1078
Creme Chantilly, -Scented, 1138
Maltaise Sauce, 298
Oil, 907
Wheat Berry Salad with Cherries,
Pecans and, 798, 799
Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan,
820, 821
Oregano
Sour Cream, Tomato Sandwich
with, 944
and Sun-Dried Tomato Butter, 300
Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 6 9 2 -6 9 3
Oxtails, Braised, 581
Oysters, in Fishermans Platter, 520
Pacific Seafood Chowder, 342

Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties, 454
Paloise Sauce (M int), 297
Pancakes. See also Crepes
Amaranth, 803
Banana, 1073
Blueberry, 1073
Buttermilk, 1073
Chocolate Chip, 1073
Oatmeal, 1073
Potato, 742, 743
Potato Latkes, 743
Spinach, 707
Zucchini, with Tzatziki, 6 8 8
Pan-Fried Breaded Pork Cutlets, 518
Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon,
522
Pan-Fried Dumplings (Guo Tie),
840, 841
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets, 518
Pan-Fried Zucchini, 707
Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, 938,
939
Pan-Smoked Chicken, 483
Pan-Steamed Carrots, 684
Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684
Panzanella, 927
Papaya
-Black Bean Salsa, 955
Green Papaya Salad, 921
en Papillote
Bass and Scallops, 553
Snapper, Fillet of, 5 5 8 -5 5 9
Paprika Oil, 907
Parmesan
Eggplant, 6 9 6 -6 9 7
Broccoli Rabe and, 820, 821
Polenta with, 792, 793
Risotto, 783
Parsley
in Gremolata, 601
-Lemon Vinaigrette, 8 9 6
Persillade, 477
Potatoes, Boiled, 736, 737
Passion and Mango-Poached
Pineapple with Coconut
Flan and Cilantro Sorbet,
1148-1150
Pasta. See also Lasagna; Noodle(s)
Basic Boiled, 819
alia Carbonara, 821
Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan,
820, 821
Ravioli Bercy, 830
Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925
Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg, 819
Beet, 819
Black Pepper, 819
Buckwheat, 819
Carrot, 819
Citrus, 819
Curried, 819
Herbed, 819
Pumpkin, 819
Red Pepper, 819
Saffron, 819
Spinach, 819
Tomato, 819
Whole Wheat, 819
Pastry(ies). See also Pastry Dough;
Pie(s); Quiche(s); Tart(s)
Eclairs, 1085
Eclairs, Chocolate, 1085

Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs),
1084
Phyllo Tubes, 1137
Profiteroles, 1085
Profiteroles (Plated Dessert),
1156-1160
Profiteroles, Ice Cream-Filled, 1085
Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat
Cheese, 978
Pastry Cream, 1098
Chocolate, 1098
for Souffles, 1099
Pastry Dough
Pate a Choux, 1084
Pate a Choux, Chocolate, 1160
Pate Brisee, 701
Pie (3-2-1), Basic, 1070
Puff Pastry, 1076-1077
Puff Pastry, Blitz, 1077
Tartlet Shells, 1144
Pate
de Campagne (Country-Style
Terrine), 998
Chicken Liver, 1004,1005
en Croute, Seafood, 1008-1 0 0 9
Dough, 1 0 0 6-1007
Dough, Saffron, 1006
Grand-Mere, 994
Spice, 1011
Pate a Choux, 1084
Chocolate, 1160
Pate Brisee, 701
Paupiettes
Sole, Veronique, Poached, 557
Trout, Poached, with Vin Blanc
Sauce, 556
Pea(s)
French-Style, 712
Risotto, Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783
Snow Peas and Yellow Squash,
Gingered, 684
Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345
Split Pea Soup, Yellow, Puree of, 345
Peanut Dressing, 902
Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar Dressing,
900
Peanut Sauce
Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Pear(s)
Blackberry and Port-Poached, with
Ricotta Cream and Sable
Cookies, 1139-1141
Frangipane Tartlets, 1128
and Gorgonzola Sandwich, 944
Poached, 1128
Pearl Barley Pilaf, 780
Pecan(s)
Brown Rice Pilaf with Green
Onions and, 7 8 0 -7 8 1
Carrots, 684
Diamonds, 1088
Pie, 1126
Pie, Cranberry-, 1126
Spicy Maple, Kasha with, 799
Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges,
Cherries and, 798, 799
Peperoni Arrostiti (Roasted Peppers),
928
Pepper
Black Peppercorn Dressing,
Creamy, 904
Black Pepper Pasta, 819
Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of
Pork with Pineapple and, 504
Hot Crushed, Broccoli Rabe, with
Garlic and (Cime di Broccoli
con Aglio e Pepperoncino),
705

Apimentado), 457
Pepper(s). See Bell Peppers; Chiles;
Red Pepper(s)
Persillade, 477
Pesto, 299
Pesto Vinaigrette, 901
Philly Hoagie, 934
Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup), 569
Phyllo
Cheese, 978
Tubes, 1137
Picada, 612-613
Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles Rellenos
con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9
Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese (Veal
Piccata with Milanese
Sauce), 519
Pickle(d)
Charcutiere Sauce, 508
Eggs, 868
Eggs, Red, 868
Ginger, 962
Red Onions, 962
Sweet, 472
Pico de Gallo, 953
Pie(s). See also Quiche(s); Tart(s)
Apple, 1125
Cherry, 1126
Cranberry-Pecan, 1126
Dough, Basic (3-2-1), 1070
Lemon Meringue, 1127
Pecan,1126
Pork and Pepper (Empanada
Gallega de Cerdo), 984
Pumpkin, 1127
Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled,
with Caramelized Onions,
Beurre Noisette, and Sage,
8 4 2 -8 4 3
Pilaf. See also Rice Pilaf
Bulgur-Green Onion, 7 9 6 -7 9 7
Mixed Grain, 796
Pearl Barley, 780
Wheat Berry, 780
Wild Rice, 780
Pimiento Butter, 300
Pineapple
-Jicama Salsa, 459
Mango and Passion-Poached, with
Coconut Flan and Cilantro
Sorbet, 1148-1150
Noisettes of Pork with Green
Peppercorns and, 504
Pinto Beans
Creamed (Frijoles Maneados), 772
Pistachios, Duck Terrine with Dried
Cherries and, 1002-1003
Pita Bread, 1037
Pizza
Crust, Semolina, 1037
Margherita, 1037
Spinach, 1037
Plain Rolled Omelet, 8 7 2 -8 7 3
Plantain
Chips, Fried, 708, 709
Tostones, 708
Plated Desserts
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears
Cookies, 1139-1141
Date Spice Cake, Warm, with
Cinnamon Ice Cream,
1134-1138
RECIPE IN DEX
1197
Plated Desserts, continued

Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil
Ice Cream and Blueberry
Compote, 1142-1145
Pineapple with Coconut
Flan and Cilantro Sorbet,
1148-1150
Profiteroles, 1156-1160
Smores, 1151-1155
Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon
Sauce, 563
Poached Eggs. See Egg(s), Poached
Poached Pears, 1128
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers, 553
Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth
with Fennel, 570
Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique,
557
Poached Sole with Saffron Mousse,
555
Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne
and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558
Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin
Blanc Sauce, 556
Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse,
554 -5 5 5
Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Polenta
Basic, 792
with Parmesan, 792, 793
Polish Cucumber Salad, Classic
(Mizeria Klasyczna), 920
Polish Stuffed Cabbage, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Poppy Seed-Honey-Citrus Dressing,
898
Pork. See also Bacon; Ham; Sausage
Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9
Bolognese), 296
Broth, Smoked, 334
Butt with Coleslaw, 470 -4 7 1
in Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish,
6 0 2 -6 0 3
in Cassoulet, 594
Chops, Baked Stuffed, 465
Chops, Grilled or Broiled, with
Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450
Chops, Grilled Smoked Iowa,
4 4 8 -4 4 9
in Choucroute, 5 9 2-593, 593
Cutlet with Sauce Robert, 508
Cutlets, Pan-Fried Breaded, 518
Dim Sum, 837
Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie),
840, 841
Dumplings, Steamed (Shao-Mai),
8 3 8 -8 3 9
Goulash, 599
595
in a Green Curry Sauce, 596
Medallions with Cabbage Salad,
Warm, 506
Medallions of, Sauteed, with
Winter Fruit Sauce, 505
Mousseline, 999
Noisettes of, with Green
Peppercorns and Pineapple,
504
Noisettes of, with Red Onion
Confit, 506
Pate Grand-Mere, 994
and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega
de Cerdo), 984
Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles
Rellenos con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9
Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467
RE CIPE IN DEX
Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu),

476
Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475
Roast, Cantonese (Char Siu), 466
Roast with Jus Lie, 465
Rolls and Sausage, Braised, in Meat
Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole
di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni),
5 9 0 -5 9 1
Scaloppine with Tomato Sauce, 503
Skewers, and Veal (Raznjici), 447
in Spring Rolls, 980
Stock, Brown, 264
Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas),
597
Tenderloin Roulade, 999
Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de
Campagne), 998
Tinga Poblano, 530
Vindaloo, 596
Port and Blackberry-Poached Pears
Cookies, 1139-1141
Portobello Mushrooms, Tofu Cakes
with Mango Ketchup and,
971
Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb, 605
Potage Garbure, 346
Potato(es)
Anna, 744
Baked, with Deep-Fried Onions,
735
Beef, Boiled, with Spatzle and
Berny, 747
Chateau, 740
in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 , 593
Corned Beef, Hash, Poached Eggs
with, 869
Corned Beef Hash with Winter
Croquette, 748
Delmonico, 740
Duchesse, 737
French-Fried, 747
Gnocchi Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3
au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise),
739
in Green Chile Stew, New Mexican,
595
Hash Brown, 740-741
Latkes, 743
in Leg of Lamb Boulangere, Roast,
476
Lorette, 748
Lyonnaise, 739
Macaire, 744
560, 561
Omelet (Tortilla Espanola), 979
Pancakes, 742, 743
Parsley, Boiled, 736, 737
Pierogi, and Cheddar-Filled, with
Caramelized Onions, Beurre
Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Potage Garbure, 346
Roasted Tuscan-Style, 738
Rosti, 744-745
Salad, 926
Salad, European-Style, 926
Salad, German, 749
in Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned,
521
Souffied, 748
in Tinga Poblano, 530
Tortilla de Papas, 750
Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet),
979
Vichyssoise, 347
Whipped, 517, 735
Pot Roast, Yankee, 586
Potstickers, 837
Poule au Pot (Chicken with
Vegetables), 565
Poultry
and Meat Stock (Brodo), 266
Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for,
371
Pound Cake, 1081
Prawn and Chicken Ragout (Mar i
Muntanya), 6 12-613
Preserved Lemons, 611
Profiteroles, 1085
Ice Cream-Filled, 1085
Plated Dessert, 1156-1160
Prosciutto
and Eggplant Panini, 938, 939
Melon Salad with, Summer, 919
Provenâl(-Style)
Beef Tournedos, 501
Chicken, 501
Sauce, 501
Vegetables, Grilled, 686
Pudding, Bread and Butter, 1106
Puff Pastry
in Beef Wellington, 463
Dough, 1076-1077
Dough, Blitz, 1077
Pulpo a Feira (Octopus Fairground
Style), 976
Pumpkin
Bread, 1080,1081
Pasta, 819
Pie, 1127
Puree. See also Coulis
Butternut Squash, 691
Millet and Cauliflower, 796
Puree Soup(s)
Bean, Senate, 346
of Black Bean, Caribbean-Style, 345
of Lentil, 344
Potage Garbure, 346
of Split Pea, 345
of Split Pea, Yellow, 345
Vichyssoise, 347
Puri (Fried Bread), 1074
Qinchao Shanghai Baicai (Stir-Fried

Shanghai Bok Choy),
70 2 -7 0 3
Quatre Epices, 369
Quesadillas, Mushroom, with Two
Salsas, 700
Quiche(s)
Broccoli and Cheddar, 876
Lorraine, 876
Onion, Caramelized, 876
Smoked Salmon and Dill, 876
Spinach, 876
Tomato and Leek, 876
Quick Bread. See Bread(s), Quick
Ragout, Chicken and Prawn (Mar i

Muntanya), 6 12-613
Ragu Bolognese (Bolognese Sauce),
296
Raisin
Bread with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042,
1043
-Oatmeal Cookies, 1089
Scones, 1072
Ranch-Style Dressing, 905
Raspberry
Coulis, 1129
Ice Cream, 1103
Mousse, 1104-1105
Ratatouille, 708
Ravioli Bercy, 830

Raznjici (Pork and Veal Skewers), 447
Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777
Red Cabbage, Braised, 711
Red Curry Paste, 370
Red Onion(s)
Confit, Noisettes of Pork with, 506
Pickled, 962
Red Pepper(s)
Artichoke and Pepper Salad, 750
Coulis, 299
791
Marinated Roasted, 695
Pasta, 819
Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade,
960
Red Pickled Eggs, 868
Red Snapper. See Snapper
Red Wine Marinade
Game, 372
for Grilled Meats, 374
Lamb, 372
for Sauerbraten, 587
Red Wine Sauce
Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Marchand de Vin, 441
Milanese, 519
Red Wine Vinaigrette, 896
and Walnut Oil, 901
Relish
Cranberry, 961
Onion, Curried, 961
Remoulade Sauce, 520
Reuben Sandwich, 942
Tempeh, 942
Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446
Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464
Ribs, Pork
Guava-Glazed, 467
Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476
St. Louis-Style, 475
Rice. See also Rice Pilaf; Risotto; Wild
Rice
Annatto, 781
Arroz Blanco, 781
Arroz Brasileiro, 782
Arroz Mexicano, 782
Basic Boiled, 785
and Beans, 776
Chicken Soup (Canja), 336
Coconut, 7 8 2 -7 8 3
Congee, 795
Croquettes, 792
Fried, with Chinese Sausage, 787
in Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp,
3 4 8 -3 4 9
Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable,
790-791
Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777
Saffron, 788
Salad, Curried, 930
Steamed Long-Grain (Lo Han),
444, 785
Sticky, Thai, with Mangos
(Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787
Sushi, 785
Tomato Soup with, Cream of, 339
Rice Pilaf, 780
Brown, with Pecans and Green
Onions, 7 8 0 -7 8 1
Converted White, 780
Short-Grain Brown, 781
Short-Grain White (Valencia), 780
Wild Rice, 780
Ricotta
Cream, 1140
Gnocchi di, 831
in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana,

8 2 5 -8 2 6
Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
Risi e Bisi (Green Pea Risotto), 783
Risotto, 783
with Asparagus, 783
Cakes, Corn and Asiago Cheese,
805
Fritters, Fontina, 804
Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783
alia Milanese, 783
with Mussels, 784
Parmesan, 783
Vegetarian, 784
Wild Mushroom, 783
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy, 482
Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade,
4 8 4 -4 8 5
Roasted Carrots, 695
Roasted Garlic and Mustard
Vinaigrette, 896
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960
Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Arrostiti),
928
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and
Couscous (Mechoui),
4 7 8 -4 7 9
Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes, 738
Roasted Vegetable Stock, 265
Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere, 476
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots
Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne),
480
Roast Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce,
481
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille, 477
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and
Chestnut Stuffing, 4 8 5 - 4 8 6
Robert Sauce, 508
Robiola Cheese, Mushrooms, Beets,
and Baby Greens with
Walnuts and, 916, 917
Rock Cornish Game Hen, Breast of,
with Mushroom Forcemeat,
4 8 3 -4 8 4
Rolls
Cottage Dill, 1039
Hard, 1036
Soft Dinner, 1045
Romaine, Braised, 711
Roman-Style Lima Beans, 774
Roquefort, Endive Salad with Walnuts
and (Salade de Roquefort,
Noix, et Endives), 910-911
Rosemary, Grilled Lamb Chops with
Artichokes, Cipollini Onions
and, 451
Rosti Potatoes, 744-745
Roulade
Foie Gras, 1001
Pork Tenderloin, 999
Rouladen, Beef, in Burgundy Sauce,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Rouladen Stuffing, 585
Royale Custard, 333
Royal Glaâge, 557
Russian Dressing, 942
S
Sabayon, 1129
Sable Cookies, 1140
Sachet dEpices, 599, 774
Saffron
Broth with Fennel, Seafood
Poached in a, 570
Pasta, 819
Pate Dough, 1006
Rice, 788
and Trout Mousseline, 555
Saigon Crepes, 804
St. Louis-Style Ribs, 475
Salad(s)
Artichoke and Pepper, 750
Barley, with Cucumber and Mint,
800, 801
Bean, Mixed, 929
Bean Curd, Smoked, and Celery,
908
Black-Eyed Pea, Warm, 929
Bread, Eastern Mediterranean
(Fattoush), 926
Bulgur, Sweet and Spicy, 800
Cabbage, Warm, 506
Caesar, 908
Carrot, Moroccan, 920
Celeriac and Tart Apple, 918
Chayote, with Oranges (Salada de
Xuxu), 919
Chefs, 909
Chicken, 923
Chicken, Hue-Style, 924
Cobb, 912, 913
Coleslaw, 920
Corn and Jicama, 921
Cracked Wheat and Tomato, 802,
803
Cucumber, 9 2 2 -9 2 3
Cucumber, Polish, Classic (Mizeria
Klasyczna), 920
Cucumber and Wakame
(Sunonomo), 922
Cucumber, Yogurt, 923
Daikon, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922
Egg, 925
Endive, with Roquefort and
Walnuts (Salade de
Roquefort, Noix, et Endives),
910-911
Greek, 910, 911
Green, Mixed, 907
Ham, 925
Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand
Jicama, 921
Lentil, Green (Salade des Lentilles
du Puy), 928
Lobster, with Beets, Mangos,
Avocados, and Orange Oil,
983
Melon, Summer, with Prosciutto,
919
and Walnuts, 916, 917
Onion and Cucumber
(Kachumber), 919
Panzanella, 927
Papaya, Green, 921
Pasta, with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925
Peppers, Roasted (Peperoni
Arrostiti), 928
Potato, 926
Potato, European-Style, 926
Potato, German, 749
Rice, Curried, 930
Seafood Ravigote, 930
Shrimp, 925
Spinach, Baby, Avocado, and
Grapefruit, 918
Spinach, Wilted, with Warm Bacon
Vinaigrette, 9 14-915
Sweet Potato, Curried, 749
Taco, 913
Thai Table, 908
Tomato and Mozzarella, 928
Tuna, 924
Tuna and Bean (Insalata di Tonno e
Fagioli), 975
Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno

alia Battuta), 964, 965
Waldorf, 918
Watercress and Apple, Sherried, 917
Wheat Berry, with Oranges, Cherries,
and Pecans, 798,7 9 9
Salada de Xuxu (Chayote Salad with
Oranges), 919
Salad Dressing. See also Mayonnaise;
Oil(s); Vinaigrette
Black Peppercorn, Creamy, 904
Blue Cheese, 904
in Caesar Salad, 908
Caesar-Style, 902
Catalina French, 902
Cucumber, 903
Green Goddess, 901
Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus, 898
Japanese, 905
Peanut, 902
Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar, 900
Ranch-Style, 905
Russian, 942
Thousand Island, 906
Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives
(Endive Salad with Roquefort
and Walnuts), 910-911
Salade des Lentilles du Puy (Green
Lentil Salad), 928
Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981
Salmon
Ancho-Crusted, with Yellow Pepper
Sauce, 510-511
Fillet with Smoked Salmon and
Horseradish Crust, 4 8 6
Gravlax, 1011
Mousseline, 555
Smoked
and Horseradish Crust, Salmon
Fillet with, 486
Mousse, 953
Platter, 963
Poached Eggs with, 871
Quiche, and Dill, 876
Terrine, and Seafood, 993
Salsa
Cruda, 965
Fruit, 1130
Grapefruit, 955
Papaya-Black Bean, 955
Pico de Gallo, 953
Pineapple-Jicama, 459
Roja, 954
Summer Squash, 699
Verde Asada, 954
Verde Cruda, 954
Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521
Salt Herbs, 481
Samosas, 970
Sandwich(es)
Apple, with Curry Mayonnaise, 943
Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 - 4 6 9
Barbecued Beef, 936
Cheese Melt, Three-, 940
Chicken Burger, 936
Club, CIA, 934, 935
Cucumber, with Herbed Cream
Cheese, 943
Gorgonzola and Pear, 944
Hoagie, Philly, 934
Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto,
938, 939
Reuben, 942
Reuben, Tempeh, 942
Tomato, with Oregano Sour Cream,
944
Turkey, Open-Faced, with Sweet
and Sour Onions, 937
Vegetable, Grilled, with Manchego
Cheese, 940, 941
Watercress, with Herb Mayonnaise,

943
Satay
Beef, with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
Seitan, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Sauce(s). See also Butter(s); Dessert
Sauce; Dipping Sauce; Gravy;
Salsa
Apple Cider, 448
Barbecue. See Barbecue Sauce
Bearnaise, 297
Bechamel, 295
Bigarade, Roast Duckling with,
4 8 4 -4 8 5
Black Bean, 458
Black Ink, Baby Squid in (Txipirones
Saltsa Beltzean), 976
Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Charcutiere, 508
Cheddar Cheese, 295
Choron, 297
Cream, 295
Cumberland, 955
Demi-Glace, 293
Dill, 447
Espagnole, 294
Fines Herbes, 500
Fruit, Winter, 505
Garlic, Sweet, 524
Green Curry, Pork in, 596
Hollandaise, 298
Hollandaise, Lemony, Asparagus
with, 6 8 8 -6 8 9
Hot Pepper (Molho Apimentado),
457
Jus Lie. See Jus Lie
Madeira, 463
Maltaise, 298
Marchand de Vin, 441
Marsala, 463, 504
Meat, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese),
296
Meat, Braised Pork Rolls and
Sausage in, with Rigatoni
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
Milanese, 519
Mint (Paloise), 297
Mint, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481
Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9
Mornay, 295
Mousseline, 298
Mushroom, 440
Mushroom Bercy, 830
Peanut, Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
Peanut, Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Pesto, 299
Provencal, 501
Red Pepper Coulis, 299
Remoulade, 520
Robert, 508
Sherry Vinegar, 450
Southwest-Style, Chef Clarks,
4 7 2 -4 7 3
Supreme, 294
Taco, 914
Tarragon, Poached Chicken Breast
with, 563
Tomato, 295
Tomato Coulis, 296
688
Veloute. See Veloute
Veracruzana, Pescado, 562
Vin Blanc, Poached Sole with
Vegetable Julienne and, 558
Vin Blanc, Poached Trout
Paupiettes with, 556
Yellow Pepper, 511
Yogurt Cucumber, 957
RECIPE IN D E X
1199
Sauerbraten, 587
Sauerkraut
Braised, 712
in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3
Homemade, 593
in Reuben Sandwich, 942
in Reuben, Tempeh, 942
in Szekely Goulash (Szekely
Gulyas), 597
Sausage
Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with,
872
in Cassoulet, 594
Chinese, Fried Rice with, 787
Chorizo, Black Beans with Peppers
and, 7 6 8 -7 6 9
in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3
Italian, Orecchiette with Broccoli
Rabe, Parmesan and, 820,
821
in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana,
8 2 5 -8 2 6
Mushroom, 598
and Pork Rolls, Braised, in Meat
Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole
di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni),
5 9 0 -5 9 1
Sauteed Arugula, 702
Sauteed Chicken with Fines Herbes
Sauce, 500
Sauteed Medallions of Pork with
Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere, 513
Savory Cheese Souffle, 874
Scallions. See also Green Onion(s)
and Beef, Skewered, 446
Scallops
and Bass en Papillote, 553
Cioppino, 562 -5 6 3
New England Shore Dinner, 560,
561
Seviche of, 962
Scaloppine
Pork, with Tomato Sauce, 503
Veal, Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4
Scones
Cream, 1072
Ham and Cheddar, 1072
Raisin, 1072
Scrambled Eggs. See Egg(s), Scrambled
Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers,
and Tomatoes, 561
Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers, 553
Seafood. See Fish; Octopus; Shellfish;
Squid
Seasonal Vegetable Tarts, 701
Seasoning Mixes. See Spice Mixes
Seitan Satay, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Semolina
Gnocchi di, Gratinati, 831
Pizza Crust, 1037
Senate Bean Soup, 346
Sesame-Soy Glaze, Grilled Shiitake
Seviche of Scallops, 962
Shallots, Crispy, 924
Shao-Mai (Steamed Dumplings),
8 3 8 -8 3 9
Shellfish. See also Clam(s); Lobster;
Mussels; Shrimp
Broth, 334
Chowder, Conch, 341
Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Crab Cakes, Chesapeake-Style,
9 68, 969
Essence, 996
1200
REC IPE IN D E X

New England Shore Dinner, 560,
561
Omelet, 873
Omelet, Seafood, 873
Poached in a Saffron Broth with
Fennel, Seafood, 570
Scallops and Bass en Papillote, 553
Scallops, Seviche of, 962
Stock, 264
Terrine, Crayfish and Chicken, 996
Terrine, Seafood and Salmon, 993
Sherried Watercress and Apple Salad,
917
Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450
Shiitake Mushrooms
in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap
Chae), 822
Grilled, with Soy-Sesame Glaze,
6 8 6 -6 8 7
Short-Grain Brown Rice Pilaf, 781
Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf
(Valencia), 780
Short Ribs, Braised, 584
Korean (Kalbi Jjim ), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Shrimp
Bisque, 347
Broiled, with Garlic, 969
Coconut Macadamia, 966
in Dumplings, Steamed (ShaoMai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9
Gumbo, and Chicken, 3 4 8 -3 4 9
in Hot and Sour Soup, Thai (Tom
Yum Kung), 354
Mirlitons, -Stuffed, 696
Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled (Chao
Tom), 977
Ragout, Prawn and Chicken (Mar i
Muntanya), 612-613
Salad, 925
in Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981
in Samosas, 970
Stuffed, 970
Tempura, 523
Ticin-Xic, 513
in Vatapa, 512
Veloute, 294
Simple Syrup, 1023
Sirloin Steak
Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445
Grilled or Broiled, with Maitre
dHotel Butter, 440
Grilled or Broiled, with Marchand
de Vin Sauce, 441
Grilled or Broiled, with Mushroom
Sauce, 440
Skewers, Skewered
Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce,
9 8 2 -9 8 3
Beef and Scallions, 446
Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh
Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter,
Broiled, 447
Pork and Veal (Raznjici), 447
Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled
(Chao Tom), 977
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae), 922

Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad,
908
Smoked Brisket with Sweet Pickles,
4 7 2 -4 7 3 , 537
Smoked Salmon. See Salmon, Smoked
Smores, 1151-1155
Snapper
Fillet of, en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9
in Pescado Veracruzana, 562
Red, with Grapefruit Salsa, 509
Snow Peas and Yellow Squash,
Gingered, 684
Soda Bread, Irish, 1072
Soft-Cooked Eggs, 866
Soft Dinner Rolls, 1045
Sole
Mousseline, 555
Paupiettes Veronique, Poached, 557
Poached, with Saffron Mousse, 555
Poached, with Vegetable Julienne
and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558
Sorbet, Cilantro, 1149
Souffle(s)
Artichoke, 875
Cheese, Savory, 874
Chocolate, 1106
Pastry Cream for, 1099
Spinach, 874
Souffleed Cheddar Omelet, 874
Souffleed Potatoes, 748
Soup(s). See also Broth; Chowder;
Consomme; Stock(s)
Bean, Senate, 346
Beef Noodle (Pho Bo), 569
Beef, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351
Bisque, Lobster, 348
Bisque, Shrimp, 347
Black Bean, Puree of, CaribbeanStyle, 345
Cheddar Cheese and Beer,
Wisconsin, 340
Chicken Rice (Canja), 336
Chicken, Thai, with Coconut Milk
and Galangal, 353
Corn and Chicken, Amish, 334
Cream
of Asparagus (Creme
dArgenteuil), 339
of Broccoli, 339
of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339
of Tomato, 339
of Tomato with Rice, 339
Gazpacho), 349
Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp,
3 4 8 -3 4 9
Ham Bone and Collard Greens, 350
Hot and Sour, Chinese (Suan La
Tang), 350
Hot and Sour, Thai (Tom Yum
Kung), 354
Lentil, Puree of, 344
Minestrone, 357
Miso, 353
Onion, 335
Onion, Gratinee, 335
Onion, White, 335
Potage Garbure, 346
Split Pea, Puree of, 345
Split Pea, Yellow, Puree of, 345
Tortilla, 335
Vegetable, Emilia-Romagna Style
(Minestrone alia Emiliana),
357
Vichyssoise, 347
White Bean and Escarole, Tuscan,
355
Wonton, 3 5 4 -3 5 5
Sour Cream
Oregano, Tomato Sandwich with,
944
688
White Sauce, 1154
Southwest-Style Sauce, Chef Clarks,
4 7 2 -4 7 3
Southwest White Bean Stew, 775
Soy
Cilantro-Lime Sauce, 956
-Ginger Dipping Sauce, 841
-Sesame Glaze, Grilled Shiitake
Soybeans, Boiled Edamame, 444, 681
Spaghetti Squash, 690, 691
Spanish Omelet, 873
Spatzle, 834
Spice Mixes. See also specific spices
Barbecue, 368
Bouquet Garni, 774
Chili Powder, 368
Curry Powder, 369
Fines Herbes, 369
Garam Masala, 368
Jerk Seasoning, 459
for Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of, and
Couscous (Mechoui), 478
for Mushroom Sausage, 598
Pate, 1011
Quatre Epices, 369
Sachet dEpices, 599, 774
for Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry,
371
Spice Paste
Curry, Green, 370
Curry, Red, 370
Curry, Yellow, 371
for Pork Vindaloo, 596
Spice Rub
BBQ, 791
Herb, 982
Spicy Beef Soup (Yukkaejang), 351
Spicy Mango Chutney, 961
Spicy Mustard, 960
Spicy Peanut Sauce, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Spinach
Eggs Florentine, 871
Omelet Florentine, 873
Pancakes, 707
Pasta, 819
Pizza, 1037
Quiche, 876
Salad, Baby, Avocado, and
Grapefruit, 918
Salad, Wilted, with Warm Bacon
Vinaigrette, 914-915
Souffle, 874
Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345
Yellow, 345
Sponge Cake
Chocolate, 1083
Vanilla, 1083
Spring Roll Dipping Sauce, 957
Spring Rolls, 980
Squash
Acorn, Baked, with CranberryOrange Compote, 689
Butternut, Puree, 691
Butternut, in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784
Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696
Spaghetti, 690, 691
Summer. See Yellow Squash;
Zucchini
Squid
Baby, in Black Ink Sauce
976
in Pescado Frito, 9 7 2-973
Stir-Fried, with Thai Basil, 515
Standing Rib Roast au Jus, 464

Steak(s)
Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with
Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441
Mushroom Sauce, 440
Grilled Rib Eye, 446
Steamed Broccoli, 681
Steamed Dumplings (Shao-Mai),
8 3 8 -8 3 9
Steamed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han),
785
Stew(s). See also Goulash
Beef, 589
Cassoulet, 594
Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i
Muntanya), 612-613
Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Green Chile, New Mexican, 595
Irish, 608
Lamb and Chicken, Couscous
with, 609
Lamb Navarin, 606
Veal Blanquette, 597
White Bean, Southwest, 775
Stewed Black Beans, 775
Sticky Buns, 1046
Sticky Rice, Thai, with Mangos
Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (Jap Chae),
822
Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy
(Qinchao Shanghai Baicai),
7 02-703
Stir-Fried Squid with Thai Basil, 515
Stock(s). See also Broth; Consomme;
Soup(s)
in Aspic, 995
Beef, White, 263
Chicken, 263
Chicken, Brown, 264
Court Bouillon, 265
Duck, Brown, 264
Estouffade, 264
Fish Fumet, 264
Game, Brown, 264
Lamb, Brown, 264
Pork, Brown, 264
Poultry and Meat (Brodo), 266
Shellfish, 264
Veal, Brown, 263
Veal, White, 263
Vegetable, 265
Vegetable, Roasted, 265
Strawberry Coulis, 1146
Straws, Chocolate, 1160
Cheese, 978
Stuffed
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Cabbage, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Chicken, Breast of, with Duxelles
Stuffing and Sauce Supreme,
515
Chicken Legs with Duxelles
Stuffing, 482
Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo
Oaxaqueno, 5 2 8 -5 2 9
Leg of Lamb, Portuguese, 605
Lobster, Broiled, 4 6 0 -4 6 1
Mirlitons, Shrimp-, 696
Pork Chops, Baked, 465
Shrimp, 970
Stuffing
Chestnut, 486
Duxelles, 482
Forcemeat, Herbed, 605
Forcemeat, Mushroom, 484
Rouladen, 585
Suan La Tang (Chinese Hot and Sour
Soup), 350
Sugar, Cinnamon, 1043
Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto,
919
Summer Squash. See Yellow Squash;
Zucchini
Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano
Butter, 300
Sunonomo (Cucumber and Wakame
Salad), 922
Supreme Sauce, 294
Sushi Rice, 785
Swedish-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872
Sweet Dough, 1045
Sweet Garlic Sauce, 524
Sweet Pickles, 472
Sweet Potato(es)
Chips, 746, 747
Glazed, 738
Mashed, with Ginger, 7 3 8 -7 3 9
Salad, Curried, 749
Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad, 800
Swiss Meringue, 1024
Swiss-Style Veal, Emince of, 502, 503
Syrup, Simple, 1023
Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597
Taco Salad, 913

Taco Sauce, 914
Tagine, Chicken, 610-611
Tangerine-Flavored Chicken, Crispy,
5 24 -5 2 5
Tapenade, 959
Tarragon
in Bearnaise Sauce, 297
Butter, 300
Sauce, Poached Chicken Breast
with, 563
Tart(s). See also Pie(s); Quiche
Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128
Key Lime, 1146-1147
Lemon Souffle, with Basil Ice
Cream and Blueberry
Compote, 1142-1145
Shells, Tartlet, 1144
Vegetable, Seasonal, 701
Tartar Sauce, 903
Tempeh
Cashew Noodles, 824, 825
Reuben, 942
Tempura
Dipping Sauce, 523
Shrimp, 523
Vegetable, 708
Teriyaki, Beef, 445
Teriyaki Marinade, 374
Terrine
Chicken and Crayfish, 9 9 6 ,1 0 0 5
Country-Style (Pate de Campagne),
998
Duck, with Pistachios and Dried
Cherries, 1002-1003
Duck and Smoked Ham, 1 0 0 4 1005
Foie Gras, 1001
Seafood and Salmon, 993
Vegetable, with Goat Cheese, 1010
Venison, 1002
Thai
Basil, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515
Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk
and Galangal, 353
Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum
Kung), 354
Sticky Rice with Mangos

Table Salad, 908
Thousand Island Dressing, 906
Three-Cheese Melt, 940
Tinga Poblano, 530
Tofu. See also Bean Curd
Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms
and Mango Ketchup, 971
Tomatillos
Salsa Verde Asada, 954
Salsa Verde Cruda, 954
Tomato(es)
Coulis, 296
and Cracked Wheat Salad, 802, 803
Gazpacho), 349
Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with
971
and Mozzarella Salad, 928
Omelet, 873
Oven-Roasted, 692
Pasta, 819
Pico de Gallo, 953
Potage Garbure, 346
Quiche, and Leek, 876
in Ratatouille, 708
Salsa Roja, 954
Sandwich with Oregano Sour
Cream, 944
Sauce, 295
Sauce, Provencal, 501
Soup, Cream of, 339
Soup, Cream of, with Rice, 339
Sun-Dried, and Oregano Butter,
300
in Tortilla Soup, 335
Vinaigrette, Fire-Roasted, 899
Tom Yum Kung (Thai Hot and Sour
Soup), 354
Tortilla(s)
Chips, 962
Flour, in Mushroom Quesadillas
with Two Salsas, 700
Soup, 335
in Taco Salad, 913
Tortilla de Papas, 750
Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), 979
Tostones, 708
Trout
Amandine, 509
Brook, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, 522
a la Meuniere, Sauteed, 513
Mousseline, and Saffron, 555
Paupiettes, Poached, with Vin Blanc
Sauce, 556
Poached, with Saffron Mousse,
5 5 4 -5 5 5
Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153
Truffle Vinaigrette, 900
Tuile Nut Cookies, 1090
Tuiles, 1144
Tuna
and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e
Fagioli), 975
Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia
Battuta), 964, 965
Salad, 924
Vitello Tonnato, 983
Turkey
Broth, 334
in Club, CIA, 934, 935
in Cobb Salad, 913
Roast, with Pan Gravy and Chestnut
Stuffing, 4 8 5 -4 8 6
Sandwich, Open-Faced, with Sweet
and Sour Onions, 937
Tuscan-Style Potatoes, Roasted, 738
Tuscan White Bean and Escarole

Soup, 355
Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean (Baby Squid
in Black Ink Sauce), 976
U
Udon Noodle(s)
Pot, 566
Tempeh Cashew, 825
V
Vanilla
Caramel Sauce, 1159
Ice Cream, 1102,1103
Ice Cream, for Profiteroles, 1156,
1157
Sauce, 1099
Sponge Cake, 1083
Vatapa, 512
Veal
Blanquette, 597
Breast, Braised, with Mushroom
Sausage, 598
Broth, 334
Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Cordon Bleu, 519
Cutlets, Pan-Fried, 518
Demi-Glace, 293
Emince of, Swiss-Style, 502, 503
Espagnole Sauce, 294
Fricassee, 612
Jus de Veau Lie, 293
Mushroom Sausage, 598
Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1
Piccata with Milanese Sauce
(Piccata di Vitello alia
Milanese), 519
Scaloppine Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4
Shoulder Poele, 464
Skewers, and Pork (Raznjici), 447
Stock, Brown, 263
Stock, White, 263
Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de
Campagne), 998
Wiener Schnitzel, 518
Vegetable(s). See also specific
vegetables
in Beef Stew, 589
and Cheese Omelet, 873
Chicken with (Poule au Pot), 565
Corned Beef with Winter
Court Bouillon, 265
Grilled, Marinated, 686
Grilled, Provenal-Style, 686
Grilled, Sandwich with Manchego
Cheese, 940, 941
in Irish Stew, 608
Jambalaya, Grilled, 7 90-791
Jardiniere, 705
Julienne, 706
Julienne, Poached Sole with Vin
Blanc Sauce and, 558
in Lamb Navarin, 606
Macedoine of, 706
Minestrone, 357
5 6 0 -5 6 1
Potage Garbure, 346
in Pot Roast, Yankee, 586
Ratatouille, 708
Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style
(Minestrone alia Emiliana),
357
Stock, 265
Stock, Roasted, 265
Tarts, Seasonal, 701
RECIPE IN D E X
1201
Vegetable(s), continued
Tempura, 708
Terrine, with Goat Cheese, 1010
Veloute, 294
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes, 770,
771
Vegetarian Chili, 778-779
Vegetarian Risotto, 784
Veloute
Chicken, 294
Fish, 294
Shrimp, 294
Vegetable, 294
Venison Terrine, 1002
Vichyssoise, 347
Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, 956
Vietnamese Salad Rolls, 981
Vinaigrette
Almond-Fig, 897
Apple Cider, 897
Bacon, Warm, Wilted Spinach Salad
with, 914-915
Balsamic, 897
Chipotle-Sherry, 896
Curry, 898
Garlic, Roasted, and Mustard, 896
Gourmande, 901
Guava-Curry, 899
Lemon-Garlic, 896
Lemon-Parsley, 896
Mustard-Herb, 896
Pesto, 901
Red Wine, 896
Tomato, Fire-Roasted, 899
Truffle, 900
Truffle, and Herb, 900
Walnut Oil and Red Wine, 901
White Wine, 896
Vin Blanc Sauce

Poached Sole with Vegetable
Julienne and, 558
Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556
Vinegar Sauce, Sherry, 450
W
Waffles, Basic, 1073
Wakame and Cucumber Salad
(Sunonomo), 922
Waldorf Salad, 918
Walnut Oil and Red Wine Vinaigrette,
901
Walnuts
Endive Salad with Roquefort and
(Salade de Roquefort, Noix,
et Endives), 910-911
Green Beans with, 685
and, 916, 917
in Waldorf Salad, 918
Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 929
Warm Cabbage Salad, 506
Warm Date Spice Cake with
Cinnamon Ice Cream,
1134-1138
Warm Goat Cheese Custard, 875
Wasabi, 960
Watercress
and Apple Salad, Sherried, 917
Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise,
943
Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand
Western Omelet, 873
Wheat Berry
Pilaf, 780
in Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796
Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and
Pecans, 798, 799
Whipped Cream for Garnish
(Chantilly), 1023
Whipped Potatoes, 517, 735
White Bean(s)
and Asparagus Lasagna, 829
Boiled, 777
and Escarole Soup, Tuscan, 355
Stew, Southwest, 775
White Onion Soup, 335
White Sauce, 1154
White Stock
Beef, 263
Veal, 263
White Wine
Fruit Sauce, Winter, 505
Sauce Robert, 508
Vinaigrette, 896
Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Sole with
Vegetable Julienne and, 558
Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Trout
Paupiettes with, 556
Whole Wheat Pasta, 819
Wiener Schnitzel, 518
Wild Mushroom Risotto, 783
Wild Rice
Cakes, 806
Pilaf, 780
Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796
Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm
Bacon Vinaigrette, 914-915
Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer
Soup, 340
Wonton Soup, 3 5 4 -3 5 5
Yankee Pot Roast, 586

Yeast Bread. See Bread(s), Yeast
Yellow Curry Paste, 371
Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511
Yellow Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345
Yellow Squash
791
Noodles, Summer Squash, 704
Salsa, Summer Squash, 699
and Snow Peas, Gingered, 684
Yogurt
Cucumber Salad, 923
Cucumber Sauce, 957
Lamb Khorma, 607
and Mint Chutney, 462
688
Yukkaejang (Spicy Beef Soup), 351
Z
Zabaglione, 1129
Zhug, 960
Zucchini
Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686
791
Noodles, Summer Squash, 704
Pancakes with Tzatziki, 688
Pan-Fried, 707
Ratatouille, 708
Salsa, Summer Squash, 699
subject index
a
Abalone, 119
Acid, in marinades, 363
Acidity, food, 33
Acini de pepe, 214
Acorn squash, 153
Administrative duties, 5
Adzuki beans, 217,1161
Aerobic bacteria, 33
Agricultural production methods,
11,128
Aioli, 887
Albacore (tombo), 111
Albufera sauce, 278
Alcohol abuse, staff, 39
Al dente, 649, 815
Alkalinity, food, 33
Allemande sauce, 278
Allergies, food, 37
All-purpose flour, 202, 203
Allspice, 222, 223
Almonds, 219, 220
Aluminum pots and pans, 56
Amaranth, 210, 211
Amberjack, 113
1202
SUB JE C T IN D E X
Americaine sauce, 278

Americans with Disabilities Act
(ADA), 39
Amino acids, 24
Anaheim chiles, 164,165
Anardana, 223
Ancho chiles, 164
Anchovy, 116
Angel food cake, 1020,1021,1059,
1061
Angel hair pasta, 213-214
Anglerfish (monkfish), 114,115
Anise, 222, 223
Annatto, 223
Announcer (aboyeur), 9
Appetizers
mousse, cold savory, 9 4 8 -9 5 2
presentation of, 947
quenelles, 992
types of, 9 4 6 -9 4 7
Apples
discoloration of, 130, 890
in fruit salad, 890
varieties of, 130-131
Apricots, 143
Arborio rice, 205, 764,1162

Arctic char, 110, 111
Arkansas stones, 48
Aromatic vegetables. See also Mirepoix
in Asian cuisine, 243
bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254
in braises and stews, 572, 575, 679
in broths, 304, 313
in chowder, 320
in consomme, 306, 307
in marinades, 363
oignon brule/pique, 240
oils and vinegars, infused, 883
in pan sauce, 433
in pilaf, 761, 762
in risotto, 764, 765
in soups, 317, 321, 322, 327
in steaming liquid, 652
sweating, 242, 276, 762
Arrowroot, 29, 30, 247, 248,1016
Artichokes, 174,175, 643, 648
Artificial sweeteners, 229
Arugula (rocket), 156,157
Asiago cheese, 194,195
Asian pears, 140,141
Asparagus, 174,175, 642

Aspic, 987, 995
As-purchased cost (APC), 17
As-purchased quantity (APQ), 18
Aurore maigre sauce, 278
Aurore sauce, 278
Avocados, 144,145, 644
Back waiter (dem i-chefde rang), 10

Bacteria, 3 2 -3 3 , 3 4 ,1 2 8
Bain-marie, 5 7 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3
Baked goods and baking. See also
Cakes; Cookies; Pies and tarts
cooling/unmolding, 1059
fats in, 30
glazing, 1118
leaveners in, 1017
liquefiers in, 1016-1017
mise en place, 1015-1022
mixing methods
blending, 1052
creaming, 1053-1055
foaming, 1058-1061
guidelines, 1055
pate a choux, 1062-1065
rubbed dough, 1048-1051
pan preparation, 1021
pastry bags and tips, 1022
scaling ingredients, 1018
sifting dry ingredients, 1018
stabilizers in, 1016
storing, 1059
sugar caramelization, 1018-1019
wines and cordials in, 235
yeast bread, 1026-1032
Baked vegetables
en casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8
potatoes, 722-724
procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 3
pureeing, 664
Bakeries, career opportunities in, 8
Baking. See Baked goods and baking
Baking pans, 1021
Baking powder, 234,1017
Baking soda, 234,1017
Bamboo steamer, 59
Bananas, 144,145
Banquet service
pasta, 818
plated desserts, 1133
Barbecue sauce
applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0
regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1
Barbecuing, 430
Barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4
Barley, 210, 211, 752,1162
Barley flour, 210
Bartlett pears (William), 140,141
Basil, 180
Basket method of deep frying, 499,
674, 675, 676
Basmati rice, 204, 205, 752,1162
Bass, 107,108
Basting, 429, 432
Batonnet/julienne knife cut, 618,
622, 625
Batters
blended, 1052
creamed, 1053-1055
for deep-fried foods, 497
foamed, 1058-1061
mixing guidelines, 1055
pasta, 8 0 8 - 8 0 9
pate a choux, 1062-1065
Bavaroise sauce, 287
Bay leaf, 180
Beans, dried. See also Legumes
in broth, 314
in pureed soups, 321
salads, 895
soaking/cooking times, 1161
varieties of, 216-218,1161
Beans, fresh, 166,167
Bean thread noodles, 213, 214
Bearnaise sauce, 283, 287
Bechamel sauce, 274, 275, 279, 864
Beef. See also Meat; Meat fabrication
cooking methods, 7 6 -7 7
cuts of, 7 2 -7 9
doneness of, 367
grades of, 72
kosher, 71
market forms of, 77
rib roast, carving, 437
stock, 256, 262
variety meats (offal), 77
Beefsteak tomatoes, 177
Beet greens, 158,159
Beets, 168,169,170
Belgian endive, 156,157, 621
Bell peppers. See Peppers, sweet
Belly, pork, 88, 89
Bercy sauce, 278
Berries
culinary uses of, 133
selecting, 132
Beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291
Beverages, 235
Bhutanese red rice, 204, 205
Bibb lettuce, 155
Bigarade sauce, 272
Biodynamic agriculture, 11
Biological contaminants, 32
Biotechnology, agricultural, 128
Bird chiles (Thai), 164,165
Biscotti, 1066
Biscuits, rubbed-dough method for,
1048-1051
Bisque, 3 2 5 -3 2 9
Black beans (turtle), 216, 217,1161
Black beauty grapes, 137
Blackberries, 132,133
Black corinth grapes (champagne),
136,137
Black-eyed peas, 218, 314,1161
Black grapes, 136,137
Black sea bass, 107,108
Blades, knife, 44
Blanching
meat and poultry, 304
potatoes for deep frying, 732, 734
vegetables, 649
Blenders, 67, 68
Blending mixing method, 1052
Blind baking, 1124
Blood oranges, 134,135
Blood sausage, 77
Blueberries, 132,133
Blue cheese, 196-197
Bluefish, 113
Bohemienne sauce, 279
Boiling
cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9
eggs, 8 4 8 -8 4 9
pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7
potatoes, 715-717
vegetables, 6 4 8 -6 5 0
Bok choy, 148,149
baby, 149
Bolsters, knife, 45
Boneless meats, fabricating, 379
Boniato, 173
Boning knife, 4 6 ,4 7
Bonnefoy sauce, 278
Bordelaise sauce, 272
Bose pears, 140,141
Boston butt, pork, 86, 87, 89
Boston lettuce, 154,155
Botulism, 32
Boulanger, 9
Bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254
Bourguignonne sauce, 272
Boursin cheese, 186,18 7
Brains, veal, 83
Braising
meat, poultry, and fish, 549,
572-576
vegetables, 677 -6 7 9
Bran
oat, 208, 209
wheat, 201, 203
Brassica (cabbage) family, 147-149
Brazil nuts, 220
Bread. See also Quick breads; Yeast
dough
panadas, 986
for sandwiches, 933
stuffing, 364
Bread crumbs, 365
Bread flour, 202, 203
Breading
for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676
ingredients for, 3 6 5,4 9 3
for pan-fried food, 495

standard procedure, 365
Breast of lamb, 92, 93
Breast of veal, 81, 82, 84
Bretonne sauce, 272, 278
Brie cheese, 188,1 8 9
Brigade system
dining room, 10
kitchen, 9 -1 0
Brisket, 75, 77, 78
Broccoli, 148,149
Broccolini, 149
Broccoli rabe (rapini), 148,149
Broiler chicken, 97
Broiler duckling, 97
Broiling
meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7
Broiling equipment, 6 5 ,4 2 4
Brook trout, 111
Broths. See also Soups; Stocks
basic formula, 303
consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 331
hearty, 311-314
ingredients for, 302, 303, 304, 311,
312, 314
preparation of, 3 0 3 -3 0 5
Browning, Maillard reaction in, 2 8 -2 9
Brown rice, 204, 205
Brown sauce, 2 6 8 -2 7 3
Brown stock, 254, 256, 260, 262
Brown sugar, 228, 229
Brunoise knife cut, 622, 623
Brussels sprouts, 147,149
Bucatini, 213, 214
Buckwheat, 211
Buckwheat groats (kasha), 210, 211,
1162
Buffalo chopper, 68
Buffet service, 818
Bulgur, 201, 203, 752,1162
Bulk fermentation, 1029
Bundt pan, 60, 63
Busboy, 10
Business duties and skills, 4 - 7
Butcher ( boucher), 9
Butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2
Butter. See also Clarified butter
beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0
forms of, 184
in Hollandaise sauce, 283, 284
in roux, 246
whole, 232
Buttercream, 1108-1110
Butterfat, 182, 251
Buttermilk, 184-185
Butternut squash, 152,153
C
Cabbage, 147,149
Cabbage (brassica) family, 147-149
Cabbage turnip (kohlrabi), 149
Caciotta cheese, 190,191
Cafes, career opportunities in, 8
Cajun cuisine, 243, 246
Cake flour, 203, 246
Cake pan, 60, 62
Cakes
blending method, 1052
buttercream for, 1108-1110
creaming method, 1053-1055
foaming method, 1058-1061
freezing, 1059
glazing, 1118
layer
fillings and icings for, 1110
icing, 1111-1113
layering procedure, 1111
pan preparation, 1021
Calamari (squid), 122,123

Calaspara rice, 205
Calcium, 26
Camembert cheese, 188,189
Cameo apple, 130,131
Canary beans, 217
Cannellini beans, 217
Canning salt, 226
Canola oil (rapeseed), 232
Cantal cheese, 193
Cantaloupe, 138,139
Capellini, 214
Cape shark (dogfish), 115
Capon, 97
Captain (c h ef d e tage), 10
Carambola (starfruit), 146
Caramelizing sugar, 28, 29
dry method, 1018
wet method, 1019
Caraway, 222, 223
Carbohydrates, 24, 28
Carborundum stones, 48
Cardamom, 222, 223
Cardinal sauce, 279
Career opportunities, 7-10
Career planning, 7
Carnaroli rice, 204
Carnival squash, 152
Carolina rice, 1162
Carrots, 168,170, 242
in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244
Carryover cooking, 3 6 6 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 6 , 576
Carving techniques, 4 3 5 -4 3 9
Casaba melon, 139
Casareccia, 214
En casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8
Cashews, 219, 220
Cassava (yucca), 172,173
Cassava flour, 248
Cast-iron pans, 56, 57
Catering companies, career
opportunities in, 8
Catfish, 116
Caul fat, 88
Cauliflower, 147,149
Cavaillon melon, 138
Cayenne, 223
Celery, 174,175
in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244
Celery root, 169,170
Celery seed, 222, 223
Cepe mushrooms (porcini), 161
Cephalopods (shellfish), 122-123
Cereals and meals, simmering and
boiling, 7 5 6 -7 5 9
Chafing dish, 62
Champagne grapes (black corinth),
136,137
Chanterelle mushrooms, 160,161
Charcuterie, 9 8 5 -9 9 2
Charcutiere sauce, 272
Chasseur sauce (Huntsmans), 272,
291
Chateaubriand, 378
Chayote (mirliton), 150,151
Cheddar cheese, 192,193
Cheeks, veal, 82
Cheese
production of, 185
Cheesecake, crumb crust for, 1051
Cheesecloth, 55, 254
Cheese curd, 186
Chef de cuisine, 9
Chefs. See also Culinary professionals;
Staff
in brigade system, 9 -1 0
business duties and skills, 4 - 7
executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9
uniform of, 38
SUB JECT IN D E X
1203
Chefs knife (French knife), 47, 619,

621
Chefs potatoes, 173
Chemical leaveners, 1017
Cherries, 143
Cherry sauce, 272
Cherry tomatoes, 177
Chervil, 178,180
Chestnuts, 220
peeling, 640
Chevre (goat cheese), 186,187
Chevreuil sauce, 272
Chicken. See also Poultry
classes of, 96, 97
doneness of, 367
fabrication of, 393
Chickpeas (garbanzo beans), 216,
217,1161
Chiffonade/shredding knife cut, 618,
621
Chiffon cake, 1059,1061
Chiles
cutting and seeding, 638
peeling, 639
toasting, 645
Chili powder, 225
Chinese cabbage
Napa, 147,149
white (bok choy), 148,149
Chinese-five-spice, 225
Chinese long beans (yard long), 166,
167
Chipotle chiles, 164
Chives, 162,179,180, 621
Chivry sauce, 278
Chocolate
in creamed batter, 1053
fondant, 1120
ganache, 1110,1114-1115
melting, 1117
production of, 234
storage of, 234
tempered, 1116,1117
truffles, 1116
Chocolate liquor, 234
Cholesterol, 24
Chopping vegetables and herbs, 618,
620
Chops
Bone-in, cutting, 381
lamb, 90
pork, 85
veal, 81
Choron sauce, 283, 287
Chowder, 320
Chuck cuts
beef, 75, 76, 78
lamb, 91, 92
veal, 84
Cilantro (fresh coriander), 179,180
Cinnamon, 222, 223
Cipollini onions, 162,163
Citrus fruits
juicing, 890
selecting, 134
supremes, 891
zesting, 891
Clams, 117,118,120
doneness of, 367
opening, 419
Clarification ingredients, for
consomme, 306, 307, 308
Clarified butter, 232
in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284
preparation of, 251-252
in roux, 246, 251
Cleaning and sanitizing
copper pans, 56
for food safety, 37-38
1204
S U B J E C T IN D E X
grills/broilers, 4 2 6 ,4 2 7
knives, 44
rolling pins, 53
uniforms, 38
Cleaning supplies, storage of, 35
Cleaver, 46, 47
Cloves, 222, 223
Coatings. See also Breading
for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676
ingredients for, 3 6 2 ,4 2 9
for pan-fried vegetables, 672
Cockles, 120
Cocoa butter, 234
Cocoa powder, 234
Coconut, 144,145
Coconut oil, 232
Cod, 105,106
Coffee, 235
Colander, 55, 254
Cold-foods chef (garde manger), 9
Collard greens, 148,149
Combi oven, 65
Commis, 10
Communard, 10
Communications, career opportunities
in, 8
Communication skills, 7
Complex carbohydrates, 24
Composed salads, 895
Concasse, tomato, 6 3 6 -6 3 7
Conch (scungilli), 119
Concord grapes, 136,137
Condensed milk, sweetened, 183
Condiments, 234
Conduction cooking, 27
Confectioners sugar (powdered),
228, 229
Confiseur, 9
Consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 330, 331
Consultants, 10
Contamination, food, 3 2 -33. See also
Food safety
Cross-contamination, 33, 34
Convection cooking, 27
Convection oven, 65
Convection steamer, 64
Converted rice, 204, 205,1162
Cooked foods, cooling and storing, 35
Cookies
creaming method, 1053,1053-1055
drop, 1066,1068
glazing, 1118
piped, 1067
rolled and cut, 1066
stenciled, 1069
twice-baked, 1066
Cooking fats. See Fats and oils
Cooking liquids
for basting, 432
for boiling, 648, 649, 650, 715
for braising, 572, 575
cooling, 35
in pan sauce, 491
for pilaf, 760, 761
for poaching (deep), 544, 546
for poaching (shallow), 540, 542,
543
for poaching eggs, 852
for risotto, 764, 765, 766
for simmering grains, 753
for simmering legumes, 753
for steaming, 53 2 ,5 3 4 ,6 5 1 ,6 5 2 ,6 5 3
for steaming, pan, 654, 655, 656
for stewing, 579, 580
Cooking methods
baking, 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , 722-724
barbecuing, 430
beef, 7 6 -7 7
boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 , 715-717,
7 56 -7 5 9
braising, 549, 572-5 7 6 , 6 7 7 -6 7 9

en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8
custards, 1093-1095
deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 , 6 7 4 -6 7 6 ,
7 3 2 -7 3 4
dry-heat, 29
dumplings, 808
eggs, 8 4 8 -8 6 5
fish, 1 0 3 -1 0 4 ,1 0 6 ,1 0 8 -1 0 9 ,
111-113,115-116
grains, 752-755
grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 ,
6 5 8 -6 6 0
hot water bath, 1092,1093,1117
lamb, 92
legumes, 7 52-755
pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 , 671-673,
8 5 4 -8 5 5
pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7
en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9
pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7
poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7
poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3
poaching eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3
pork, 8 7 -8 8
potatoes, 715-734
poultry, 97
roasting, 4 2 8 -4 3 4 , 6 6 1 -6 6 3 ,
7 2 2 -7 2 4
and sauce pairing, 292
sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 , 6 6 5 -6 6 7 ,
7 2 9-731
shellfish, 1 1 9 -1 2 1 ,1 2 3 ,1 2 5 -1 2 6
simmering, 544-5 4 7 , 752-755,
7 5 6 -7 5 9
smoking, 430
sous vide, 5 4 8 -5 5 2
steaming, 532-5 3 5 , 6 5 1 -6 5 3 , 717
stewing, 577-580, 6 7 7 -6 7 9
stir-frying, 4 8 8 -4 8 9 , 6 6 8 -6 7 0
veal, 8 2 -8 3
vegetables, 6 4 8 - 6 8 0
in world cuisines, 12
Cooking process
heat transfer in, 2 7 -2 8
sugars and starches in, 2 8 -2 9
Cookware. See Pots and pans
Cooling foods
baked goods, 1059
for safe storage, 35
stock, 260
vegetables, 650
Copper pots and pans, 56, 58
Cordials, 235
Coriander
dried, 222, 223
fresh (cilantro), 179,180
Corn, 166,167, 207
cutting from cob, 641
Cornish hens, 97
Cornmeal, 206, 207
Corn oil, 232
Cornstarch, 30, 206, 207, 247, 248,
268 ,1 0 1 6
Corn syrup, 228, 230
Cortland apples, 130,131
Cost
As-purchased (APC), 17
butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2
control, 5
edible portion, 19
Cottage cheese, 186,187
Cottonseed oil, 233
Count measure, 14
Country clubs, career opportunities
in, 8
Country-style forcemeat, 986, 991,
992
Court bouillon, 254
Couscous, 212, 215,75 2 ,1 1 6 2
Cox orange pippin apples, 130,131

Crab, 117,124,126
doneness of, 367
soft-shell, cleaning, 417
Crabapples, 131
Cracked wheat, 203,1162
Cranberries, 132,133
Cranberry beans, 167, 216, 217
Cranberry tomatoes, 177
Crayfish (crawfish), 125,418
Cream. See also Whipped cream
forms of, 182,183
freshness of, 182
in ganache, 1114-1115
healthy substitutions, 25
in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
in pan sauce, 491
Cream cheese, 187
Creamer onions (pearl), 162,163
Creamer potatoes, 171
Creaming mixing method, 1053-1055
Cream of rice, 204
Cream soups, 317-319, 330
Creams, stirred, 1093,1095
Creme caramel, 1092
Creme fraiche, 184
Cremini mushrooms, 160,161
Crenshaw melon, 139
Creole cuisine, 246
Crepe pan, 57
Crevettes sauce, aux, 278
Critical control points (CCPs), 15, 36
Crookneck squash, 151
Cross-contamination, 33, 34, 35, 70,
365
Crosshatch marks, 426, 660
Croutons, 889
Crumb crusts, 1051
Crumb toppings, 1123
Crustaceans (shellfish), 124-125
Cucumbers, 150,151
Culinary professionals. See also Chefs
associations of, 1191
career opportunities for, 7-10
career planning for, 7
education and training of, 4
and food industry trends, 11-12
information sources for, 1189-1190
management duties of. See
Management
personal attributes of, 4
professional network of, 4
Cumin, 222, 223
Curing salt, 226
Currants, 132,133
Currant tomatoes, 177
Curry leaves, 180
Curry powder, 225
Custards
baked, 1092
as pie filling, 1123,1124
stirred, 1093-1095
Cut-in dough method, 1048-1051
Cutlets, 80, 380
Cutting fruits, 8 9 0 -8 9 3
apples, 890
citrus, 8 9 0 -8 9 1
hedgehog cut, 892
mangos, 892
melons, 893
pineapples, 893
Cutting vegetables and herbs
artichokes, 643
asparagus, 642
avocados, 644
batonnet/julienne cut, 618, 622,
625
chestnuts, 640
chiffonade/shredding, 618, 621
chopping, 618, 620, 6 3 3 -6 3 4
corn, 641
fermiere/paysanne cut, 618, 624

for deep-fried potatoes, 733
diagonal/bias cut, 627
diamond/lozenge cut, 618, 624, 626
dicing, 623, 625, 631-632
fanning cut, 630
fluting, 629
garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4
gaufrette/waffle cut, 628
guidelines, 6 4 5 -6 4 6
julienne/batonnet cut, 618, 622,
625
leeks, 635
lettuce, 888
lozenge/diamond cut, 618, 624, 626
mincing, 618, 621, 6 3 1-632, 634
mushrooms, 640
oblique/roll cut, 627
onions, 631-632
paysanne/fermiere cut, 618, 624
peapods, 641
peeling, 619, 631
peppers and chiles, 6 3 8 -6 3 9
rondelle/round cut, 618, 624, 626
standard cuts, 618, 6 2 2 -6 2 4
tomatoes, 636
tourne/turned cut, 624, 630
waffle/gaufrette cut, 628
Cuttlefish, 123
Daikon, 169,170
Dairy products. See also Cheese;
Cream; Milk
storage of, 3 4 ,182
types of, 182-185
Dandelion greens, 158,159
Danish blue cheese, 197
DAnjou pears, 140,141
Decorateur, 9
Deep-fat fryer, 64,497, 674, 676, 732
Deep frying
breading and coating in, 497, 675,
676
potatoes, 732-734
Degreasing soups and broths, 309, 330
Delicata squash (sweet potato), 152,
153
Delicious apples, 131
Demerara sugar, 229
Demi-glace, 268
Denatured protein, 29
Design specialists, 10
Dessert menu, 1132,1133
Desserts. See also Cakes; Cookies; Pies
and tarts
custards, 1092-1095
frozen, 184,1133
ice cream, 184,1095
mousse, 1096-1098
plated, 1131-1133
truffles, 1116
Diagonal/bias knife cut, 627
Diamond/lozenge knife cut, 618,
624, 626
Diamond-impregnated stones, 48, 50
Diane sauce, 272
Dicing vegetables and herbs, 623, 625,
6 31-632
Dill, 178,180, 224
Dining room brigade system, 10
Diplomate sauce, 278
Direct fermentation, 1027
Disability insurance, 6
Display refrigeration, 65
Dogfish (cape shark), 115
Dolphinfish (mahi mahi), 110,113
Doneness
deep-fried foods, 499
grains and legumes, 753, 755
grilled foods, 427
meat, poultry and fish, 3 6 6 -3 6 7
pan-fried foods, 496
pasta and noodles, 815
poached foods, 547
potatoes, 717
roasted foods, 432
sauteed foods, 490
vegetables, 649
Double boiler, 57
Dough. See also Yeast dough
laminated, 1056-1057
pasta, 8 0 8 -8 1 3
pate, 9 8 6 -9 8 7
phyllo, 1057
rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051
Dover sole, 102,1 0 4 ,4 1 2
Drawn butter, 232
Dressings, 364
Drop cookies, 1066,10 6 8
Drug abuse, 39
Dry goods, 199-235
fats and oils, 232-23 3
grains, meals, and flours, 2 00-211
legumes, 216-218
miscellaneous, 234 -2 3 5
nuts and seeds, 219-221
pasta and noodles, 212-215
pepper, 227
purchasing system for, 200
salt, 2 2 6 -2 2 7
spices, 222 -2 2 5
sweeteners, 228-231
Dry milk, 183
Dry rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 , 430
Dry storage
chocolate, 234
coffee and tea, 235
guidelines for, 200
nuts, 219
salt, 226
sanitary conditions in, 35
spices, 222
wines and cordials, 235
Duchesse potatoes, 721
Duck. See also Poultry
carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 6
classes of, 95, 97
doneness of, 367
Dumplings
quenelles, 992
types of, 808
Durum flour, 202, 203
G
Eating styles, in cultural cuisines, 12
Eclairs, fondant glaze for, 1121
Ecossaise sauce, 279
Edamame (green soybeans), 166,167
Edible portion cost (EPC), 19
Edible portion quantity (EPQ), 18
Education and training
for communications/media/
marketing/writing/food
styling career, 8
of culinary professionals, 4
staff development, 6
for teaching career, 8
Eel, 116
Eggplant, 150,151
Eggs. See also Egg whites; Egg yolks
allergies to, 37
in baking, 1016
in creamed batter, 1053,1054
in custard, 1092,109 4
in foamed batters, 1058-1061
and food safety, 35, 884
in forcemeats, 986
grades, sizes, forms, 198
hard- and soft-boiled, 8 4 8 -8 4 9
in mousse, 1 0 9 6 -1 0 9 7
omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1
in pasta dough, 809
in pate a choux, 1 0 6 3-1064
poaching, 8 5 0 -8 5 3
Scotch egg, 279
scrambling, 8 5 6 -8 5 7
separating, 1020
souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5
as stabilizer, 1016
storage of, 3 4 ,1 8 2
structure and uses, 29
Egg substitutes, 198
Egg wash, 3 6 5 ,4 9 5 ,1 0 2 3 ,1 1 2 2
Egg whites, 29
in buttercream, 1109
in foamed batter, 1059
folding in, 949, 951
as forcemeat binder, 986
in meringue, 1020-1021
in mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 ,1 0 9 7
in souffle, 862
whipping, 8 6 4 ,1 0 2 0 -1 0 2 1 ,1 0 9 6 ,
1097
Egg yolks
as emulsifier, 29, 30
in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284,
285, 286
in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
in mayonnaise, 884, 886
Elbows, 214
Emince, 380
Emmentaler cheese, 192,193
Emperor grapes, 137
Employees. See Staff
Emulsifiers, 29, 30, 232, 8 80, 884
Emulsion forcemeats, 986
Emulsion sauces, 283, 284
Endive (Belgian), 156,157, 621
Endospores, 33
English peas (garden, green), 166,167
Enoki mushrooms, 161
Enriched yeast dough, 1026
Entrepreneurship, 9
Epazote, 222, 224
Epoisses cheese, 188 ,1 8 9
Equipment and tools, 4 3 -6 8 . See also
Knives; Pots and pans
for baking potatoes, 722
for boiling, 648, 715
cleaning and sanitizing, 37
for consommes, 306
for deep frying, 497, 674, 676, 732
for forcemeats, 987
for grilling, 6 5 ,4 2 4 ,4 2 6 , 658
grinding, 68, 392
hand tools, 5 2 -5 3
large, 6 4 - 6 8
maintenance of, 7
for mayonnaise, 884
measuring, 15, 54
molds, 59, 61
for mousse, 948
for pan frying, 493, 671
for pasta making, 809
for peeling vegetables, 619
for poaching (deep)/simmering,
544
for poaching (shallow), 540
for pureeing, 55, 318, 324, 664, 718
rolling pins, 52, 53
safety precautions, 64
for salad making, 888
sieves and strainers, 55
for simmering grains and legumes,
753
for souffles, 862

for soups, 315, 318, 321, 325
for sous vide cooking, 550
for stocks, 254
for vinaigrette, 8 8 0
Escargot (snails), 119
Escarole, 156,157
Espagnole sauce, 268, 271
Essences (fumets), 254
fish, 255, 256, 259, 262
Evaporated milk, 183
Executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9
Executive dining rooms, 8
Expediter, 9
Explorateur cheese, 188,189
Extracts, 234
Facultative bacteria, 33
Fanning knife cut, 630
Farfalle, 212, 214
Farina, 201, 203
Farmers cheese, 186,187
Farro, 210
Fatback, pork, 88
Fat, dietary, 24
Fats and oils. See also Butter
in baking
blended batter, 1052
creamed batter, 1053-1055
foamed batter, 1060
laminated pastry dough,
1056-1057
rubbed-dough, 1 048-1049,1050
yeast dough, 1026
barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4
basting with, 432
for deep frying, 499, 732
flavored oils, 883
for frying eggs, 854, 855
function of, 30
in marinades, 363
milk fat content, 182,183
for pan frying, 493, 495, 671
parching rice in, 762, 766
for roasting vegetables, 662
in roux, 246
for sauteing, 665, 666, 670, 729, 730
smoke point of, 30, 232
types of, 2 3 2 -2 3 3
for vinaigrette, 880, 881
Fava beans, 166,167, 217,1161
Feet
calves, 83
pig, 88, 89
Fennel, 174,175
Fennel seeds, 224
Fenugreek, 222, 224
Fermentation
milk, 184
yeast dough, 1027,1029,1031
Fermiere/paysanne knife cut, 618, 624
Feta cheese, 186,187
Fettuccine, 213, 214
Fiddlehead ferns, 174,175
Figs, 145
Filberts (hazelnuts), 219, 220
File powder, 222, 224
Filleting fish, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 , 4 0 8 409, 412
Filleting knife, 47
Fillings
buttercream, 1108-1110
ganache, 1114-1115
for layer cakes, 1110
for pies and tarts, 1122,1123,1124
sandwich, 9 3 2 -9 3 3
Financiere sauce, 272
Fingerling potatoes, 171,173
Fire safety, 38
SU B J E C T IN D E X
1205
Fish
allergies to, 37
braising, 549, 572-576
broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314
deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9
doneness in, 3 6 6 -3 6 7
fabrication of, 4 0 2 -4 1 2
filleting, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 ,4 0 8 409, 412
goujonettes, 411
for grilling, 427
gutting, 4 0 3 ,4 0 7
scaling/trimming, 4 0 2 ,4 0 3
tranche, 411
freshness of, 100
frozen, 101
fumet, 255, 257, 259, 262
grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7
market forms of, 100
mise en place for, 361-367
pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6
pan grilling, 427
en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9
sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2
simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7
steaks, 100, 410
steaming, 532-535
stewing, 577-580
stock, 254, 255, 259, 262
storage of, 3 4 ,100-101
stuffings for, 428
types of, 101-116
Fish chef (poissonier), 9
Fish poacher, 57, 5 8 -5 9
Flageolets, 216, 217
Flattop range, 64
Flavorings. See Aromatic vegetables;
Herbs; Seasonings; Spices
Flax seeds, 221
Flounder, 102,1 0 3 ,1 0 4
Flour
in baking
blending method, 1052
creaming method, 1053-1055
rubbed-dough method, 1 0 4 8 1051
barley, 210
coating, 497
oat, 209
panada, 986
in pasta dough, 808
rice, 204, 205
in roux, 2 4 6 -2 4 7
as stabilizer, 1016
as thickener, 248,1016
wheat, 201, 202, 203,1026
for yeast dough, 1026
Fluke, 102,104
Fluoride, 26
Fluting mushrooms, 629
Foaming mixing method, 1058-1061
Foams, gelatin in, 1016
Foie gras, 71, 95
Fondant, 1119-1121
Fontina cheese, 190,191
Food allergies, 37
Food and beverage costs, 5
Food and beverage managers, 10
Food-borne illness, 3 2 -37,128
Food chopper, 68
Food critics, 10
Food and Drug Administration (FDA),
35, 36
Food industry
agricultural systems in, 11
global culinary exchange in, 12
and sustainability, 11-12
Food mill, 55
SUB J E C T IN DEX
Food processor, 66, 68

for forcemeats, 987
for mousse, 948
for pasta dough, 811
Food safety
in breading and coating, 365
cleaning and sanitizing for, 37-3 8
contaminants, 32 -3 3
of cooked/ready-to-serve foods, 35
in cooling foods, 35
and cross-contamination, 33,70,3 6 5
in dry storage, 35
and eggs, 35, 884
in forcemeat preparation, 987, 9 8 8
Hazard Analysis Critical Control
Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7
and irradiation, 128
and milk pasteurization, 182
in poultry fabrication, 393
in refrigeration and freezing, 3 4 -3 5
in reheating, 3 5 -3 6 , 331
sanitary inspection for, 34
in service, 37
in sous vide cooking, 549
and staff hygiene, 38
of stuffings, 364
Food science
basics of, 27 -3 0
of sous vide cooking, 548
Foodservice companies, 8
Food slicer, 68
Food storage. See also Dry storage;
Frozen foods; Refrigeration
baked goods, 1059
and cross-contamination, 33, 35, 70
dairy products, 3 4 ,182
eggs, 3 4 ,182
fish, 34 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1
food safety in, 3 4 -3 5
fruits and vegetables, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9
herbs, 129
meat, 34, 70
mushrooms, 160
sanitary conditions in, 3 4 -3 6
shellfish, 34,117
Food styling, 8 ,1 0
Food writers, 10
Forcemeats
egg binder in, 29
and food safety, 987, 988
ingredients for, 9 8 6 -9 8 7
mousseline, 986, 989
preparing, 9 8 7 -9 9 2
in quenelles, 992
stuffings, 364
types of, 986
Forelle pears, 140,141
Fork, kitchen, 52, 53
Fowl (stewing hen), 97
Foyot sauce, 287
Freezing. See Food storage; Frozen
food
Fregola sarda (Italian couscous), 215
French green beans (haricots verts),
166,167
French knife (chefs knife), 46,47,
619, 621
Fresno chiles, 164,165
Frisee, 156,157
Frittatas, 858
Fromage blanc, 187
Front waiter (ch ef de rang), 10
Frozen desserts, 184
ice cream, 184,1095
plating, 1133
Frozen foods
baked goods, 1059
fish, 101
meat, 70, 71
temperature for, 34
thawing, 36
Fruits. See also Citrus fruits; specific

fruits
browning of, 130,140
culinary uses of, 129
cutting. See Cutting fruits
dried, rehydrating, 645
filling for pies and tarts, 1122
heirloom, 11
as ice cream flavoring, 1095
locally grown, 11,128
organic, 11,128
pectin in, 1016
production methods, 11,128
salad, 8 9 0 -8 9 3
selecting, 128
stone fruits, 142-143
storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9
yield calculation, 18
Fry chef (friturier), 9
Fryers (chicken), 97
Frying. See also Deep frying; Pan frying
eggs, 8 5 4 -8 5 5
Frying fats, 232, 854
Fry pan (sautoir), 57, 59
Fumets (essences), 254
fish, 255, 257, 259, 262
Fungi, 32
Fusilli, 212, 214
Gala apples, 130,131

Galangal, 172,173
Game birds, barding, 434
Game meat
barding, 434
cuts of, 94
stock, 262
storage of, 70
Ganache
in layer cakes, 1110
making, 1114-1115
in truffles, 1116
Garam masala, 225
Garbanzo beans (chickpeas), 216, 217
Garde manger
forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 9 2
pate en croute, 9 9 1 ,1 0 0 7 ,1 0 0 9
quenelles, 992
Garden peas (English, green), 166,167
Garlic, 162,163
aiioli, 887
chopping/mincing, 6 3 3 -6 3 4
measuring, 14
roasting, 634
studding roast with, 434
Garnishes
for appetizers, 947
for broths, 302, 303, 311, 312
for chowder, 320
for consomme, 307, 310
croutons, 889
fanning cut, 630
for forcemeats, 986, 991, 992
matignon, 243
mushrooms, fluted, 629
for pan sauces, 492
quenelles, 992
for sandwiches, 933
for soups, 316, 319, 322, 323, 326,
331
for yeast breads, 1032
Gaufrette/waffle knife cut, 628
Gelatin
in aspic, 987, 995
in foams, 1016
in mousse, 948, 950, 951,1096
strength, ratios for, 952
working with, 950
Gelation, 29,1016
Gelato, 184
Genetically modified organisms
(GMOs), 11,128
Genevoise sauce, 272
Ghee, 232, 251
Ginger, 172,173, 224, 242
Glaâge, 283, 284
Glace, 261
Demi-glace, 268
Glacier, 9
Glarner Schabziger cheese (Sap Sago),
195
Glazes and glazing
baked goods, 1118
cookies, 1066
fondant, 1119-1121
ganache, 1110,1114-1115
meat and poultry, roasted, 429
vegetables, pan-steamed, 654, 657
vegetables, sauteed, 665, 666, 670
Globalization of cuisines, 12
Globe onion, 162,163
Gluten development, in yeast dough,
1028,1029
Glutinous rice, 205
Goat cheese, 186,18 7 ,1 9 4
Golden delicious apples, 130,131
Goose, 95, 97, 393
doneness of, 367
Gooseberries, 132,133
Gorgonzola cheese, 196,197
Gouda cheese, 192,193
Goujonette, 411
Government regulations
meat inspection, 70
of milk production, 182
workplace, 39
Grains
in broth, 314
cooking time for, 1162
forms of, 2 0 0 -2 1 1
milled, 200
parching, 762, 766
pilaf, 7 6 0 -7 6 3
polenta, 759
risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7
salads, 895
simmering, 752-755
soaking, 752
in stuffings, 364
whole, 200
Grana Padano cheese, 194,195
Granny Smith apples, 130,131
Granulated sugar, 228, 229
Grapefruit, 134,135
Grapes, 136-137
Grapeseed oil, 233
Gratin dish, 61, 62
Gratin forcemeat, 986, 991
Gratin potatoes (en casserole), 728
Gratin sauce, 272
Gravy, pan, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
Great Northern beans, 216, 217,1161
Green beans, 166,167
Green cabbage, 149
Green leaf lettuce, 154,155
Green lentils, 216
Green onions (scallions), 162,163, 621
Green peas (English, garden), 166,167
Greens
bitter salad, 156-157
chiffonade cut for, 621
cleaning and drying, 888
cooking, 158-159
Green salads, 8 8 8 -8 8 9
Grenadins, 378
Griddles, 57, 65
Grill chef (grillardin), 9
Grilled sandwiches, 933
Grilling
crosshatch marks, 426, 660
pan grilling, 427
Grilling equipment, 65, 424, 426, 658
Grinder, meat, 68, 392
Grinding
forcemeat, 987, 988, 989
meat, 392
Grits, 206, 207
Groats, 209,1162
Ground meat
doneness of, 367
grinding, 68
Grouper, 107,109
Gruyere cheese, 192,193
Guajillo chiles, 164
Guava, 145
Habanero chiles, 164,165

Haddock, 105,106
Hake, white, 105,106
Half-and-half, 182,183
Halibut, 102,104
Ham
carving, 4 3 7 -4 3 9
cuts of, 85, 87, 89
doneness of, 367
Handles, knife, 45
Hand tools, 5 2 -5 3
Hand washing, 32, 33, 34
Haricots verts (French green beans),
166,167
Havarti cheese, 190,191
Hazard Analysis Critical Control
Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7
Hazelnuts (filberts), 219, 220
Head waiter (ch efd e salle), 10
Healthy substitutions, 25
Heart
beef, 77
lamb, 92
pork, 88
veal, 83
Heat transfer
in cooking process, 2 7 -2 8
of pots and pans, 58, 60
Heavy cream, 182,183
Hedgehog cut, 892
Heirloom beans, 218
Heirloom fruits and vegetables, 11
Heirloom rice, 205
Heirloom tomatoes, 176,177
Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms
(maitake), 160,161
Herbs
bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254
in broths, 312, 314
chopping, 620
coatings, 362
in fruit salad, 890
mincing, 621
sachet depices, 240, 241
selecting, 129
storage of, 129
Hollandaise sauce, 2 8 3 -2 8 7
Home meal replacement food service, 8
Hominy, 206, 207,1162
Hominy grits, 1162
Homogenization, 182
Honey, 228, 230
Honeycrisp apples, 130,131
Honeydew melon, 138,139
Hors doeuvre, 946
Horseradish, 169, 224
Hotel pans, 62
Hotels, career opportunities in, 8

Hot water bath, 1092,1117
HRI (Hotel, Restaurant and
Institution) cuts, 71
beef, 7 8 -7 9
lamb, 93
pork, 89
veal, 84
Hubbard squash, 152,153
Human resource management, 6
Huntsmans sauce (chasseur), 272
Hydroponic crops, 128
Hygiene
and cross contamination, 33, 34
and food-borne illness, 32
and kitchen safety, 38
Ice bath, 260

Iceberg lettuce, 154,155
Ice cream, 184,1095
Ice milk, 184
Icing
buttercream, 1108-1110
cookies, 1066
ganache, 1114-1115
for layered cakes, 1110
procedure, 1112-1113
Idaho potatoes, 173
Immersion blender, 67, 68
Immigration and Naturalization
Service (IN S), 6
Induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 - 6 5
Industrial agriculture, 11
Infection, in food-borne illness, 32
Information management, 5
Information sources, -1185-1191
Infrared radiation, 28
Ingredients. See also Dry goods;
Seasonings
baked goods, 1016-1017
breadings and coatings, 362, 365,
429, 493
for broths, 302, 303, 304, 311,
312, 314
for chowder, 320
for consomme, 306, 307, 308
dairy products, 182-185
in deep frying, 498
fish, 101-116
for forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 8 7
fruits, 130-146
fruit salads, 8 9 0 -8 9 3
global sharing and exchange, 12
in grilling and broiling, 425
herbs, 178-180
for marinades, 363
for mayonnaise, 884, 885, 887
measuring. See Measuring
ingredients
meat, 7 2 -9 4
for mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6
nutrients in, 24, 25, 26
in pan frying, 494
in en papillote cooking, 537
for pasta dough, 8 0 8 -8 0 9 , 810
for pilafs, 760, 761, 763
in poaching (deep), 544, 545
in poaching (shallow), 540, 541
poultry, 9 5 -9 8
for risotto, 764, 765
in roasting, 429, 661, 662
for sandwiches, 932 -9 3 3
sauce pairing, 291, 292
in sauteing, 489
seasonings, 362 -3 6 3
shellfish, 118-126
for soups, 315, 316, 321, 322, 325,
326
in steaming, 533
in stewing, 578, 677, 678
for stocks, 254, 255, 2 5 6 -2 5 7
for stuffings, 364
thickeners, 234, 248
vegetables, 147-177
for vinaigrettes, 880, 881
for yeast bread, 1026-1027
Institutional catering, 8
Intestines
beef, 77
lamb, 92
pork, 88
Intoxication, in food-borne illness, 32
Iodine, 26
Iodized salt, 226
Iron, 26
Irradiation, food, 128
Israeli couscous, 212, 215
Italian buttercream, 1108
Italian couscous (fregola sarda), 215
Italian meringue, 1021
Italian plums, 142,143
Italienne sauce, 272
Jack be little pumpkins, 152

Jaggery, 229, 231
Jalapeno chiles, 164,165
Japanese eggplant, 150,151
Japanese wheat noodles, 213
Jarlsberg cheese, 193
Jasmine rice, 204, 205, 752,1162
Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes),
172,173
Jicama, 172,173
Jobs tears, 211
Job training, 4
John Dory (St. Peters fish), 116
Jowl, pork, 88
Judgment, of culinary professionals, 4
Juicing citrus fruit, 890
Julienne/batonnet knife cut, 618,
622, 625
Juniper berries, 222, 224
Jus, 433
Jus lie, 268, 2 6 9 ,4 3 3
Kabocha squash, 152

Kale, 148,149
Kansas City barbecue, 431
Kasha, 210, 211,1162
Kentucky barbecue, 431
Kettles, 64, 254
Key limes, 135
Kidney beans, 216, 217,1161
Kidneys, 71
beef, 77
fabrication of, 390
lamb, 92
pork, 88
veal, 81, 83
Kirby cucumbers, 150,151
Kitchen
brigade system in, 9 -1 0
research-and-development, 10
safety in, 38
Kitchen fork, 52
Kiwi, 144,145
Kneading pasta dough, 811
Knife cuts. See Cutting vegetables and
herbs
Knives
cleaning and sanitizing, 44
palette knife, 52, 53
parts of, 4 4 -4 5
for peeling vegetables, 619
safe handling of, 44
sharpening and honing, 44, 4 8 -4 9

steeling, 5 0 -5 1
storing, 44
types of, 4 6 - 4 7
Kohlrabi (cabbage turnip), 149
Korean starch noodles, 213
Kosher meat, 71
Kosher salt, 226
Lamb. See also Meat; Meat fabrication

cooking methods, 92
cuts of, 9 0 -9 3
doneness of, 367
grades of, 90
leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5
rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7
variety meats, 92
Lambs lettuce (mache), 156,157
Laminated dough, 1056-1057
Langoustines (prawns, scampi), 125
Lard, 232
Larding roasted meats, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4
Lasagne, 214
Layer cakes, 1110,1111-1113
Leaf lettuces, 154,155
Lean dough, 1026,1027
Leaveners, 234, 808,1016,1017
Lecithin, 29, 30, 884
Leeks, 162,163, 242
cleaning and cutting, 635
Leg cuts
lamb, 90, 92, 93
veal, 82, 84
venison, 94
Legumes
in broth, 314
salads, 895
simmering, 752-755
soaking, 752, 753
soaking/cooking times, 1161
varieties of, 2 16-218
Lemon curd, 1110
Lemongrass, 179,180
Lemons, 134,135
Lemon sole, 102,103
Lentils, 216, 217,1161
in broth, 314
in rice pilaf, 763
Lettuce, 154-155, 888
Liability insurance, 6
Liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
Light cream, 182,183
Lima beans, 167, 216, 217,1161
Limburger cheese, 189
Limes, 134,135
Linguine, 213, 214
Liqueurs, 235
Liquid measurement, 15,17
Liquids. See Cooking liquids
Liquifiers, in baking, 1016-1017
Liver, 71
beef, 77
fabrication of, 390
lamb, 92
pork, 88
veal, 81, 83
Loaf pans, 61, 63
Lobster, 117,124,125
cooked, preparing, 4 14-415
doneness of, 367
live, preparing, 413
Lobster mushrooms, 160,161
Locally grown produce, 11,128
Loin cuts
beef, 73, 76, 7 8 -7 9
lamb, 90, 92, 93
pork, 85, 87, 89
veal, 80, 82, 84
venison, 94
SUB JECT IN D E X
1207
Lotus root, 170

Lozenge/diamond knife cut, 618,
624, 626
m
Macadamia nuts, 219
Mace, 224
Mache (lambs lettuce), 156,157
McIntosh apples, 130,131
Mackerel, 110,112
Macoun apples, 130,131
Magnesium, 26
Mahi mahi (dolphinfish), 110,113
Maillard reaction, 2 8 -2 9 ,5 4 9
Maitake mushrooms (hen-of-thewoods), 160,161
Maitre dhotel, 10
Maize, 207
Malanga, 170
Maltaise sauce, 287
Management, 4 - 7
administrative duties, 5
of human resources, 6
of information, 5
of physical assets, 5
of time, 6 - 7
Manchego cheese, 192,193
Mandarin orange, 135
Mandoline, 66, 68, 727, 890
Mango, 144,145, 892
Manioc (yucca), 172,173
Manzana chiles, 164,165
Maple sugar, 228, 229
Maple syrup, 230
Marinades
basting with, 432
dry, 362
for grilled meats, 425
for grilled vegetables, 658, 660
ingredients, 363
for roasted/baked vegetables, 661,
662
Marjoram, 179,180
Marketing, career opportunities in, 8
Marmite, 57
Marrow, 72, 390
Masa harina, 206, 207
Mascarpone cheese, 186,187
Matelote sauce, 273
Matignon, 243
Matsutake mushrooms, 160,161
Mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889
Measuring ingredients
conversions, 16-17,1163-1165
converting recipe yields, 16
equipment and tools, 15, 54
equivalents, 1166
scaling, 1018,1030
systems of, 14-15
Meat. See also Forcemeats; Variety
meats (offal)
braising, 549, 572-576
broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314
cuts of, 71
beef, 7 2 -7 9
game, 94
lamb and mutton, 9 0 -9 3
pork, 8 5 - 8 9
veal, 8 0 - 8 4
doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7
fabrication. See Meat fabrication
grades of, 70-71
inspection of, 70
kosher, 71
marinating, 363
market forms of, 71, 77, 82, 88
1208
S U B J E C T IN D E X

pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6
pan grilling, 427
en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9
roasting. See Roasted meat and
poultry
sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2
simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7
sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2
steaming, 532-535
stewing, 577-580
stock, 254, 255, 256, 261, 262
storage of, 34, 70
stuffings for, 428
usable trim, 20
Meat fabrication, 376 -3 9 2
boneless meats, 379
for braising, 574
chops, bone-in, cutting, 381
cutlets, cutting/pounding, 380
for deep frying, 497
emince, 380
for grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 ,4 2 7
grinding, 392, 987, 989
lamb, leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5
lamb, rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7
medallions, 378
for pan frying, 493
pork loin, trimming/boning, 383
roast, tying, 3 8 8 -3 8 9
steaks, boneless, 382
for stewing, 577
tenderloin, trimming, 377
variety meats, 390 -3 9 1
Meat grinder, 68, 392, 987
Meat slicer, 68
Mechanical leaveners, 1017
Medallions, shaping, 378
Media, career opportunities in, 8
Melon bailer, 53
Melons
cutting, 893
Memphis barbecue, 431
Menus
dessert, 1132,1133
of food service companies, 8
functions of, 14
hazardous analysis of, 36
nutritional considerations in, 25
Meringue
common, 1020
egg whites, whipping, 1020,1096,
1097
Italian, 1021
in mousse, 1096
as pie topping, 1123
Swiss, 1020-1021
Metal pans, 56, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 6 0 -6 1
Metric measurement, converting to
U.S. system, 17
Meyer lemon, 134,135
Microorganisms, 32
Microwave oven, 28, 65
melting chocolate, 1117
reheating vegetables, 680
Milk
allergies to, 37
in baking, 1016
in custard, 1092,1094
fermented/cultured products,
184-185
forms of, 182,183
freshness of, 182
pasteurized/homogenized, 182
in pureed potatoes, 719
in white sauce, 275
Milk fat (butterfat), 182
Milled grains, 200
Millet, 210, 211,1162
Mincing vegetables and herbs, 621

garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4
onions, 6 3 1 -6 3 2
Minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26
Mint, 179,180
Mirepoix
in bisques, 327
in broths, 306
in sauces, 268, 269, 270, 271
in stocks, 254, 255, 259
Mirliton (chayote), 150,151
Mise en place
for baked goods, 1015-1022
for dessert station, 1133
for grilling, 426
for meats, poultry, fish, and
shellfish, 3 6 1-367
for sandwiches, 933
for stocks, sauces, and soups,
2 3 9 -2 5 2
for vegetables and herbs, 6 1 8 -6 4 6
Mixer, standing, 67, 68
Mixing equipment, 6 6 -6 7 , 68
Mixing methods, baking. See Baked
goods and baking, mixing
methods
Molasses, 228, 230
Molds
for custard, 1092
for forcemeats, 991
for mousse, 948, 950
for stenciled cookies, 1069
types of, 60, 61, 62
Mollusks (shellfish), 117,118-121
Monkfish (anglerfish), 114,115
Monterey Jack cheese, 190,191,194,
195
Morbier cheese, 190,191
Morel mushrooms, 160,161
Mornay sauce, 279
Mousse
dessert, 1096-1097
savory, cold, 9 4 8 -9 5 2
Mousseline forcemeat, 986, 989,
991, 992
Mousseline sauce, 283, 287
Mozzarella cheese, 187
MSG (monosodium glutamate), 226
Mud dab, 103
Mudfish (tilapia), 116
Muenster cheese, 190,191
Muffins, creaming method for,
1053-1055
Muffin tins, 60, 63
Mung beans, 217,1161
Mushrooms
cleaning and cutting, 640
fluting, 629
in mirepoix, 242
sauce, 273
storage of, 160
Muskmelons, 139
Mussels, 117,118,120
cleaning, 419
doneness of, 367
Mustard, in mayonnaise, 884
Mustard greens, 158,159
Mustard seeds, 222, 224
Mutton, 90
Napa cabbage, 147,149

Navel oranges, 134,135
Navy beans, 217,1161
Nectarines, 142,143
Noisettes, 90
shaping, 378
Nonstick coatings, 56, 58
Noodles
cooking procedures, 8 1 4 -8 1 7
doneness in, 815
dried varieties, 212-215
fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3
Normande sauce, 278
North American Meat Processors
Association (NAMP), 70
North Carolina barbecue, 431
Northern spy apple, 130,131
Nut allergies, 37
Nutmeg, 222, 224
Nutrition
basics of, 2 4 -2 5
defined, 23
menu development for, 25
vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26
Nuts and seeds, 219-221
O
Oak leaf lettuce, 155
Oat bran, 208, 209
Oat groats, 209,1162
Oatmeal, 209
Oats, 2 0 8 -2 0 9
Oblique/roll knife cut, 627
Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA), 39
Octopus, 122,123
cleaning, 422
Offal. See Variety meats
Offset spatula, 52, 53
Oignon brule (burnt onion), 240
Oignon pique (pricked/studded
onion), 240
Oils. See Fats and oils
Oil sprays, 233
Olive oil, 233
Omelet pan, 57, 858, 860
Omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1
Onion family, 162-163
Onions
as aromatic, 240
dicing/mincing, 6 3 1 -6 3 2
in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244
peeling, 631
soup, 312
Open-burner range, 64
Oranges, 134,135
Orecchiette, 212, 215
Oregano, 178,180
Organic agriculture, 11,128
Organ meats. See Variety meats (offal)
Orzo, 212, 215
Ovens
combi, 65
convection, 27, 65
conventional/deck, 65
microwave, 28, 65
pots and pans for, 6 0 -6 1
Oven temperature, roasting, 428
Oxtails, 75, 77
Oyster mushrooms, 160,161
Oyster plant (salsify), 169,170
Oysters, 117,118,121
doneness of, 367
opening, 418
Oyster sauce, 279
Pak choy (baby bok choy), 149

Palm sugar, 229, 231
Paloise sauce, 287
Panadas, bread, 986
Pan frying
vegetables, 671-673
Pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
Pan grilling, 427

Pan preparation
in baking, 1021
in bread making, 1027
for creamed batters, 1053
Pans. See Pots and pans
Pan sauce, 2 6 8 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657
Pan-steaming vegetables, 6 5 4 -6 5 7
Pantry chef, 9
Papaya, 144,146
En papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9
Paprika, 225
Parasites, 32
Parboiling vegetables, 649
Parching grains, 762, 766
Parchment paper, 536, 542
Paring knife, 46, 47, 619
Parisienne sauce, 278
Parisienne scoop (melon bailer), 53
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, 194,195
Parsley, 179,180
Parsnips, 170, 242
Partial coagulation, 1016
Passion fruit, 146
Pasta
as appetizer, 947
in broth, 314
cooking procedures, 814 -8 1 7
cooking time for, 1164
cooling/reheating, 818
doneness of, 815
dried, 212-215
fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3
salads, 895
sauce pairing, 817
service styles for, 818
Pasteurization, 182
Pastries, glazing, 1118,1121
Pastry bags and tips, 1022
Pastry chef (patissier), 9
Pastry dough
laminated, 1056-1057
phyllo, 1057
for pies and tarts, 1048-1051,
1122-1123
Pastry flour, 203
Pate
dough, 9 8 6 -9 8 7
en croute, 991,1007,1009
en croute, mold for, 61, 62
forcemeats for. See Forcemeats
Pate a choux, 1062-1065
Pathogens, food, 3 2 -3 4 ,1 2 8
Pattypan squash, 150,151
Paupiettes, 411
Paysanne/fermiere knife cut, 618, 624
Pea(s), dried, 216, 218,1161
Pea(s), fresh, 166,167, 641
Peaches, 142,143
Peanut allergy, 37
Peanut oil, 233
Peanuts, 219, 220
Pearl barley, 210, 211, 752,1162
Pearl onions (creamer), 162,163
Pearl rice, 205
Pears, 140-141
Pear tomatoes, 177
Pecans, 219, 220
Pecorino cheese, 185,192,193
Pecorino Romano cheese, 185,194,
195
Pectin, 1016
Peeler, 52, 53, 619
Peeling
apples, 890
asparagus, 642
avocados, 644
chestnuts, 640
citrus fruits, 891
garlic, 633
mangos, 892
melons, 893
onions, 631
peppers and chiles, 639
pineapples, 893
potatoes, 715
tomatoes, 6 3 6 -6 3 7
tools for, 619
Penne, 212, 215
Pepitas (pumpkin seeds), 219, 221
Pepper and peppercorns, 226, 227
Peppers, chile. See Chiles
Peppers, sweet (bell), 164,165
cutting and seeding, 638
in mirepoix, 242, 243
peeling, 639
Periwinkle, 119
Permit fish, 112
Persian limes, 134,135
Persian melons, 139
Persimmons, 146
Personal attributes, of culinary
professionals, 4
Petrale, 102,103
pH, 33
Pheasant, 98
Phosphorus, 26
Photography, career opportunities
in, 10
Phyllo dough, 1057
Physical assets, management of, 5
Pickling salt, 226
Picnic cut, pork, 86, 87, 89
Pie pans, 63
Pies and tarts
baking, 1124
blind baking shell, 1124
crumb crusts for, 1051
crust, making, 1122-1123
custard fillings for, 1123,1124
fruit fillings for, 1122,1124
toppings for, 1122,1123
Pigeon, 98
Pigeon peas, 216, 218,1161
Pignoli (pine nuts), 219, 220
Pike, walleyed, 107,108
Pilaf, 760 -7 6 3
Piloncillo, 229, 231
Pinâge technique, 242, 245
Pineapple, 144,145, 893
Pine nuts (pignoli), 219, 220
Pink beans, 1161
Pinto beans, 218,1161
Piped cookies, 1067
Pistachios, 219, 220
Plaice (rough dab), 103
Plantain, 144,145
Plate, beef, 77, 78
Plated desserts, 1131-1133
Plating. See Presentation
Plums, 142,143
Plum tomatoes, 177
Poaching
deep, 5 4 4 -5 4 7
eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3
quenelles, 992
shallow, 5 4 0 -5 4 3
Poblano chiles, 164,165
Poivrade sauce, 273
Polenta, 759,1162
Pollock, 105,106
Pomegranate, 146
Pompano, 110,112
Pont LEveque cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9
Popcorn rice, 204
Poppy seeds, 219, 221
Porcini mushrooms (cepes), 161
Pork. See also Meat; Meat fabrication
cuts of, 8 5 -8 9
doneness of, 367
grades of, 85
loin, trimming and boning, 377, 383
market forms of, 88
prepared products, 86
salt, in puree soups, 321, 322, 323
salt, rendering, 323
variety meats, 88
Portable refrigeration, 65
Portion size
of appetizers, 9 4 6 -9 4 7
converting, 16-17
edible portion quantity, 18
optimum, 25
in standardized recipes, 15
Portobello mushrooms, 160,161
Port-Salut cheese, 191
Potassium, 26
Potatoes
baking, 7 2 2 -7 2 4
boiling, 715-717
en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8
deep frying, 7 3 2-734
Duchesse, 721
peeling, 715
pureeing, 718-721
roasting, 7 2 2 -7 2 4
salads, 8 9 4 -8 9 5
sauteing, 729-731
starch/moisture content of, 714
steaming, 717
stuffed baked, 722
varieties of, 171,173, 714
waffle/gaufrette cut, 628
Potato starch, 247, 248
Pots and pans
baking pans, 1021
for boiling, 648, 715
for braising, 572
cast-iron, 56, 57
copper, 56, 58
for egg cooking, 850, 854, 856
for induction cooking, 28
materials for, 5 6 -5 7 , 59, 60
omelet, 57, 858, 860
for oven cooking, 6 0 -6 1
for pan frying, 493, 671
for pan grilling, 427
for poaching (deep)/simmering,
544
for poaching (shallow), 540
for roasting, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661
for sauteing, 4 88, 665
seasoning, 57
for soup, 315
for steaming, 532
for stewing, 677
for stock, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 254
for stovetop cooking, 57, 5 8 -5 9
Poultry
braising, 549, 5 72-576
broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314
classes of, 9 5 -9 8
doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7
fabrication of, 3 9 3 -3 9 9
halving/quartering, 3 9 8 -3 9 9
supremes, 3 9 4 -3 9 5
trussing, 3 9 6 -3 9 7
grades of, 95
kosher, 71
mise en place for, 3 6 1-367
pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6
pan grilling, 427
roasting. See Roasted meat and
poultry
sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2
simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7
steaming, 5 32-535
stewing, 5 77-580
stock, 255, 262
storage of, 34, 70
stuffing for, 364, 428
Poussin, 97
Powdered milk, 183
Powdered sugar (confectioners),
228, 229
Prawns (langoustine, scampi), 125
Presentation. See also Service
of appetizers, 947
of frozen desserts, 1133
of hors doeuvres, 946
of mousse, cold savory, 948
of pasta, 818
of sandwiches, 933
of sauces, 292
of soups, 331
Pressure steamer, 64, 532
Primal cuts, 71
beef, 7 6 -7 7
lamb, 92
pork, 8 7 -8 8
veal, 8 2 -8 3
Private clubs, career opportunities
in, 8
Professional network, 4
Progressive grinding, 988
Prosciutto, 85
Protein
and bacterial growth, 33
denatured, 29
food sources of, 24
Provolone cheese, 192,193
Puddings, stirred, 1093-1095
Pullman loaf pan, 61, 63
Pumpkin, 152,153
Pumpkin seeds (pepitas), 219, 221
Purchasing system, 5
Pureeing
cream soups, 318
equipment, 55, 66, 67, 68, 318, 324,
664, 718
mousse, 951
potatoes, 718-721
soups, 321-324
vegetables, 316, 664
Purple potatoes, 171,173
Quail, 98
Quatre epices, 225
Quenelles, 992
Queso fresco, 186,187
Quick breads
creamed batters, 1053-1055
foamed batters, 1058-1061
freezing, 1059
Quince, 146
Quinoa, 210, 211
Rabbit, 94
disjointing, 4 0 0 -4 0 1
Rack
of lamb, 91, 92, 93
of veal, 81, 82, 84
of venison, 94
Radiation, 2 7 -2 8
Radiatore, 215
Radicchio, 156,157
Radishes, 168,170
Rainbow trout, 110, 111
Ramekins, 61, 62
Ramps (wild leeks), 163
SU B J E C T IN D E X
1209
Ranges
induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 -6 5
pots and pans for, 57, 5 8 -5 9
types of, 6 4 -6 5
Rapeseed oil (canola), 232
Rapini (broccoli rabe), 148,149
Raspberries, 132,133
Reach in refrigeration, 65
Reblochon cheese, 188,189
Recipe conversion factor (RCF), 16
Recipes
calculations, 1 6 -2 0
effective use of, 20
evaluation/modification of, 14
hazard analysis of, 36
standardized, 15
Red cabbage, 147,149
Red delicious apples, 131
Red emperor grapes, 136,137
Red flame grapes, 137
Red globe grapes, 137
Red globe onion, 162,163
Red kuri squash, 152
Red leaf lettuce, 154,155
Red lentils, 216
Red potatoes, 171,173
Red snapper, 108
Reduced-fat milk, 183
Reduction sauce, 268
Refrigeration
of dairy products, 182
equipment, 65
of fish and shellfish, 100-101
of forcemeats, 986
of fruits and vegetables, 129
of herbs, 129
of meat, poultry, and game, 70
of mousse, 952
of mushrooms, 160
of pasta dough, 809
of soups, 330
temperature for, 34
of yeast, 1017
Regence sauce, 273
Reheating
eggs, poached, 850
pasta, 818
soups, 331
vegetables, 680
Reliance grapes, 137
Remouillage, 261
Research-and-development, career
opportunities in, 9 ,1 0
Resorts, career opportunities in, 8
Responsibility, sense of, 4
Restaurants. See also Menus
brigade system, 9 -1 0
career opportunities in, 8
dessert station in, 1133
management of, 5 - 7
menus, 14, 25, 36
sustainable, 12
Resting period, for roasted meat and
poultry, 29,4 3 2
Resting yeast dough, 1029
Retarding yeast dough, 1029
Rex sole, 103
Rhizomes, 171-173
Rhubarb, 144,145
Rib cuts
beef, 74, 76, 78
pork, 85, 86, 88
Rib roast, carving, 437
Rice. See also Grains
cooking times for, 1162
pilaf, 760, 763
risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7
1210
SUB J E C T INDEX
soaking, 752
varieties of, 2 0 4 -2 0 5 , 764
wild, 204, 205,1162
Rice beans, 218
Rice flour, 204, 205, 247, 248
Rice milk, 184
Rice noodles, 213, 214
Ricer, 55
Rice vermicelli, 213
Ricotta cheese, 186,187
Ricotta salata cheese, 192,193
Rigatoni, 215
Ring-top range, 64
Risotto, 764 -7 6 7
Rivets, knife, 45
Roast chef (rotisseur), 9
Roasted meat and poultry, 4 2 8 -4 3 9
barding/larding, 429, 434
basting, 4 2 9 ,4 3 2
carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 9
doneness, 432
oven temperature, 428
pan gravy with, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
resting, 29, 432
smoke-roasting, 428, 4 3 0 -4 3 1
vs sous vide cooking, 549
tying roasts, 3 8 8 -3 8 9
Roasted vegetables
garlic, 634
peppers and chiles, 639
potatoes, 722-724
procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 2
Roaster chickens, 97
Roasting pans, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661
Robert sauce, 273
Rock Cornish hens, 97
Rocket (arugula), 156,157
Rock salt, 226
Rock sole, 103
Roll/oblique knife cut, 627
Rolled oats (old-fashioned), 208, 209
Rolling pins, 52, 53
Romaine lettuce, 154,155
Romano beans, 166,167
Roma tomatoes, 177
Rome beauty apples, 131
Rondeau, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 677
Rondelle/round knife cut, 618, 624,
626
Root vegetables, 168-170
boiling, 649, 650
Roquefort cheese, 196,197
Rosemary, 178,180
Rotisserie cooking, 428
Rough dab (plaice), 103
Round/rondelle knife cut, 618, 624,
626
Round cuts
beef, 72, 76, 78
lamb, 92
pork, 87
veal, 80
Roundsman (toumant), 9
Roux
blond/white, 274, 275
brown, 268
clarified butter in, 246, 251
in pan gravy, 433
singer method, 276, 320
Royal sauce, 287
Rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051
Rubs, spice, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0
Ruby red grapes, 137
Russet potatoes, 171,173
Rutabaga, 169,170
Rye, 211
S
Sachet depices, 240, 241, 254, 259
Safety, 6. See also Food safety
government regulations for, 39
kitchen, 38
in knife handling, 44
with large equipment, 64
and substance abuse, 39
Safflower oil, 233
Saffron, 225
Sage, 178,180
St. Peters fish (John Dory), 116
Salad
as appetizer, 947
composed, 895
croutons in, 889
dressing procedure, 889
fruit, 8 9 0 -8 9 3
green, 8 8 8 - 8 8 9
legume, 895
pasta and grain, 895
potato, 8 9 4 -8 9 5
vegetable, 894
warm, 894
Salad dressing
mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889
oils and vinegars, flavored, 883
for potato salad, 8 9 4 -8 9 5
vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 - 8 8 2 , 8 8 9
Salad greens
bitter, 156-157
lettuce, 154-155, 888
washing and drying, 888
Salad oil, 233
Salamander, 65
Sales, career opportunities in, 8 ,1 0
Salmon
Atlantic, 110, 111
coho/silver, 111
Pacific (king), 110, 111
sockeye/red, 111
Salmonellosis, 32
Salsify (oyster plant), 169,170
Salt
in bread making, 1027
types of, 2 2 6 -2 2 7
Salt substitutes, 226
Sandwiches, 9 3 2 -9 3 3
Sanitation certification, 39
Sanitizing. See Cleaning and sanitizing
Santa Claus melon, 138
Sap Sago cheese, 195
Sardines, 116
Sauce a lAnglaise, 279
Saucepan, 57, 58
Sauce pot, 57, 58
Sauces, 2 6 8 -2 9 2
barbecue, applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0
barbecue, regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1
bechamel, 274, 275, 279, 864
beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291
for braises, 572, 573, 576
brown, 2 6 8 -2 7 3
with deep-poached/simmered
foods, 544
flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5
food pairing, 291, 292
hollandaise, 2 8 3 -2 8 7
jus lie, 268, 269, 433
mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2
pan, 4 3 3 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657
pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
pasta pairing, 817
plating of, 292
purposes of, 291
with souffles, 862
for stews, 580, 678
stir-fry, 488
thickeners for, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 268, 271
tomato, 2 8 0 -2 8 2
vanilla, 1095
vin blanc, 278
white, 2 7 4-279
Sausage, 86
Saute chef (saucier), 9
Sauteing
glaze, for vegetables, 665, 666, 670
potatoes, 729-731
reheating vegetables, 680
Saute pan (sauteuse), 57, 58, 59, 488,
665
Sautoir (fry pan), 57, 59
Savory, 180
Savoy cabbage, 147,149
Scales, 15, 54
Scaling, 1018,1030
Scallions (green onions), 162,163, 621
Scallops, 117,118,121, 367
Scampi (langoustines, prawns), 125
Scimitar, 46
Scones, rubbed-dough method for,
1048-1051
Scoring yeast dough, 1032
Scotch egg, 279
Scrambled eggs, 8 5 6 -8 5 7
Scungilli (conch), 119
Sea bass, black, 107,108
Seafood. See Fish; Shellfish; Squid;
Octopus
Searing
braised foods, 574
roasted foods, 428, 429, 432
stewed foods, 577
Sea salt, 226
Seasoned salt, 227
Seasoning pans, 57
Seasonings. See also Aromatic
vegetables; Herbs; Spices
for appetizers, 947
for broths, 304, 312, 314
for consomme, 306, 307
for deep-fried vegetables, 676
for grilled/broiled foods, 425
for sauteed foods, 490
for steamed vegetables, 652, 653
for stews, 577, 677
for stocks, sauces, and soups,
2 4 0 -2 5 4 , 255, 269, 275, 316,
317, 322, 330
types of, 3 6 2 -3 6 3
Sea urchins (uni), 118,119
Seckel pears, 140,141
Seeds
toasting, 362
varieties of, 2 2 0 -2 2 1
Semolina flour, 202, 203
Serrano chiles, 164,165
Service. See also Presentation
answering guests questions, 15, 37
brigade system, 10
commitment to, 4
food safety in, 37
and food/sauce pairing, 292
styles of, 818
Service information, 15
Sesame oil, 233
Sesame seeds, 219, 221
Seville orange, 135
Shad, 113
Shallots, 162,163, 242
Shanks
beef, 72, 76
ham, 87
lamb, 91, 92
veal, 80, 82, 84
Shark, 115
Sharpening stones, 4 8 - 4 9
Sheet pan, 62
Shellfish
allergies to, 37
bisque, 325, 3 2 6 -3 2 9
broth, 303, 304
chowder, 320
doneness in. See Doneness in meat,
poultry, and fish
fabrication of, 413 -4 1 9
and food-borne illness, 32
market forms of, 117
quality indicators for, 117
sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2
steaming, 532-535
storage of, 3 4 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 ,1 1 7
types of, 118-126
Shells, 215
Sherbet, 184
Shiitake mushrooms, 160,161, 640
Shortening, 232
Shoulder cuts
beef, 75, 76, 78
lamb, 91, 92, 93
pork, 87, 89
veal, 82
venison, 94
Shredding/chiffonade knife cut, 618,
621
Shrimp, 124,125,126
cleaning/deveining, 416
doneness of, 367
Sieves, 55, 254
Sifting dry ingredients, 1018
Silicone mold, flexible, 61, 62
Silk snapper, 107,108
Simmering
broths, 304, 313
cereals and meals, 756 -7 5 9
consomme, 309
grains and legumes, 752-755
sauces, 270
soups, 317, 318, 323
stock, 258
Simple syrup, 1019
Singer method of soup making, 276,
320
Skate, 114,115
Skewers, 426
Skim milk, 183
Skimming stocks and soups, 258, 305,
317, 323
Slicer knife, 46, 47
Slicing equipment, 66, 68
Slurry, starch, 2 4 7-248, 268
Smoke point, 30, 232
Smoke roasting, 4 2 8 ,4 3 0 -4 3 1
Smokers, 65
Smothering aromatic vegetables, 242
Snails (escargot), 119
Snapper, 107,108
Snow peas, 166,167
Soaking grains and legumes, 752, 753
Soba noodles, 213, 214
Soda bread, rubbed-dough method for,
1048-1051
Sodium, 26
Software systems, 5
Sole, 102,103,412
Sommelier, 10
Sorghum, 211
Souffle dishes, 862, 865
Souffleed omelets, 858, 860, 861
Souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5
Soups. See also Broths; Stocks
bisque, 325-329
chowder, 320
cold, 331
cream, 317-319, 330
degreasing, 330
flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5
guidelines for, 330-331
puree, 321-324
reheating, 331
thickeners for, 315, 316, 320, 325
Sour cream, 183,184
Sourdough starter, 1017
Sous chef, 9
Sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2
South Carolina barbecue, 431
Soy allergies, 37
Soybean oil, 233
Soybeans
dried, 218,1161
green (edamame), 166,167
Soy milk, 184
Spaghetti, 213, 214
Spaghetti squash, 152,153
Spanish blue cheese, 196,197
Spanish onion, 162,163
Spanish rice, 204
Spareribs, 86, 88, 89
Spas, career opportunities in, 8
Spatulas, 52, 53
Spatzle, 808
Spelt, 211
Spices. See also Seasonings
blends, 362
in broths, 312, 314
mixes, 225
rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0
sachet depices, 240, 241, 254, 259
toasting, 362
varieties of, 222 -2 2 5
Spinach, 158,159
Spit roasting, 428
Split peas, 216, 218,1161
Sponge cake, 1021
Spreads, sandwich, 932 -9 3 3
Springform pan, 60, 62
Squab, 97
Squash
Hard-shell, 152-153
Soft-shell, 150-151
Squash blossoms, 150,151
Squid, 122,123
cleaning, 4 2 0 -4 2 1
Stabilizers, in baking, 1016
Staff
kitchen brigade, 9 -1 0
legal responsibilities to, 6
personal hygiene of, 33, 34, 38
service staff, 10,15, 37
substance abuse problems of, 39
training of, 6
Stainless steel pots and pans, 56, 60
Standardized recipes, 15
Star anise, 222, 225
Starches
as emulsifier, 30
as thickener, 29, 247 -2 4 8 , 268,
1016
Star fruit (carambola), 146
Stayman winesap apples, 130,131
Steaks
beef loin, 73, 76
beef rib, 74, 76
boneless, cutting, 382
chuck, 75, 76
fish, 100, 410
Steam, as leavening agent, 1017
Steamers, 57, 64
Steaming
meat, poultry and fish, 5 32-535

en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9
potatoes, 717
vegetables, 6 5 1-653
vegetables, pan-steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7
Steam-jacketed kettle, 64
Steam table pan, 62
Steel-cut oats (Irish, Scottish), 209
Steelhead trout, 111
Steels/steeling knives, 5 0 -5 1
Stenciled cookies, 1069
Stewing
thickeners in, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677
Stewing hen (fowl), 97
Stew meat
beef, 76, 79
lamb, 93
veal, 81, 82, 84
Sticky rice, 205
Stilton cheese, 196,197
Stir-frying, 4 8 8 ,4 8 9 , 6 6 9 -6 7 0
St. Louis barbecue, 431
Stockpot, 5 7 ,5 8 -5 9 , 254
Stocks. See also Broths; Soups
in aspic, 987
basic formula, 255
for broths, 303
commercial bases, 261
for consomme, 306
cooking times for, 262
flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 , 2 5 4 -2 5 5 ,
259
glaces, 261
in pan sauce, 491
remouillage, 261
for sauces, 270, 274
types of, 254, 2 5 6 -2 5 7
Stone fruits, 142-143
Storage. See Dry storage; Food storage;
Freezing; Refrigeration
Stoves. See Ovens; Ranges
Straight mixing method, for yeast
dough, 1027
Strainers, 55
Straining
bisque, 329
broth, 305
consomme, 309
cream soup, 318
pan gravy, 434
puree soup, 324
sauces, 271, 277
stock, 260
Strawberries, 132,133
Striped bass, 107,108
Striped eddy squash, 152
Stuffings, 364, 367, 428
Sturgeon, 114,115
Sugar
caramelizing, 28, 29
dry method, 1018
wet method, 1019
in creamed batter, 1054
in foamed batter, 1058 ,1 0 6 0
as liquefier, 1016
syrup, 230,1019
types of, 2 2 8 -2 2 9 , 231
Sugarcane, 229, 231
Sugar snap peas, 166,167
Sugar substitutes, 229
Sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes),
172,173
Sunflower oil, 233
Sunflower seeds, 219, 221
Supremes
chicken, 3 9 4 -3 9 5
citrus, 891
Supreme sauce, 278, 291

Sushi rice, 205
Sustainable agriculture, 11,128
Sustainable restaurants, 12
Sweating vegetables, 666, 680
aromatic, 242, 276, 762
Sweetbreads, 71, 81, 83, 3 9 0 -3 9 1
Sweet dumpling squash, 152
Sweetened condensed milk, 183
Sweeteners. See also Sugar
artificial, 229
glazing vegetables with, 654
types of, 2 2 8 -2 3 1
Sweet peppers. See Peppers, sweet
Sweet potatoes, 172,173
Sweet potato squash (delicata), 152,
153
Swimming method of deep frying, 499
Swiss buttercream, 1108
Swiss chard, 158,159
Swiss meringue, 1020-1021
Swordfish, 114,115
Syrup, 230
simple, 1019
Szechwan peppercorns, 227
Table salt, 227

Tail, pigs, 88
Taleggio cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9
Tang, knife, 45
Tangelo, 134,135
Tangerine, 134,135
Tapioca, 247, 248
Tarragon, 180
Tart pan, 60, 62
Tarts. See Pies and tarts
Tea, 235
Teaching, career opportunities in,
8,10
Teff, 211
Temperature
conversions, 1164
of fats, in pan frying, 495, 673
of fats, in deep frying, 499, 676
food storage, 34, 70
in forcemeat preparation, 987, 989
resting, for meat and poultry,
3 6 6 -3 6 7
for sauce plating, 292
for soup reheating, 331
for soup service, 331
in sous vide cooking, 548, 549
for stuffing, holding, 364, 428
Tempered chocolate, 1116,1117
Tenderloin
beef, 73, 79
lamb, 92
medallions, 378
pork, 89
trimming, 377
Terrines, forcemeats for. See
Forcemeats
Texas barbecue, 431
Thai chiles (bird), 164,165
Thawing frozen food, 36
Thermal circulator, in sous vide
cooking, 550, 551
Thermometers, 5 4 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 7 , 550
Thickeners. See also Roux
in baking, 1016
for braises, 572
healthier options, 316, 326
ingredients, 234
liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
for sauces, 268, 269, 271
for soups, 315, 316, 320, 325
starch slurries, 29, 247-248, 268
for stews, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677
SUB JECT IN D E X
1211
Thompson seedless grapes, 136,137

Thyme, 178,180
Tilapia (mudfish), 116
Tilefish, 107,109
Tilting kettle, 64
Timbale mold, 62
Time management, 6 -7
Toasting dried chiles, 645
Tokay grapes, 137
Tomatillos, 176,177
Tomatoes
in braises, 572, 575
in broth, 314
concasse, 6 3 6 -6 3 7
cutting, 637
heirloom, 176,177
in mirepoix, 242, 245
sauce, 2 8 0 -2 8 2
Tombo (albacore), 111
Tongue
beef, 77
fabrication of, 390
lamb, 92
veal, 82
Tools. See Equipment and tools
Tournedos, 378
Tourne knife, 46,47, 630
Tourne knife cut, 624, 630
Toxins, 32
Tranche, 411
Trichinella spiralis, 32
Trim, usable, 1 9 -2 0
Trim loss, 18
Tripe, 75, 77
Trout, 110, 111
Truffle, black and white, 161
Truffles, chocolate, 1116
Trussing poultry, 3 9 6 -3 9 7
Tube pan, 63
Tubers, 171-173
Tubetti, 212, 215
Tuna, 110,112
Turbinado sugar, 228, 229
Turbot, 102,104
Turkey, 97, 367
Turmeric, 222, 225
Turnip greens, 149
Turnips, 168,169,170
Turtle beans (black), 216, 217
U
Udon noodles, 214
Ugli fruit (uniq), 134,135
Unemployment insurance, 6
Uniform, chefs, 38
Uniq (ugli fruit), 134,135
United States Department of
Agriculture (USDA), 36, 70,
80, 8 5 ,1 2 8 ,1 9 8 , 366
Usable trim, 1 9 -2 0
U.S. measurement system, converting
to metric, 17
Utility knife, 4 6 ,4 7
SUB JE C T INDEX
Vacuum bag, in sous vide cooking,

548, 550, 551
Valois sauce, 287
Vanilla sauce, 1095
Variety meats (offal)
beef, 71, 77
fabrication of, 390 -3 9 1
lamb, 92
pork, 88
storage of, 70
veal, 81, 8 2 -8 3
Veal. See also Meat; Meat fabrication
cuts of, 8 0 - 8 4
doneness of, 367
grades of, 80
kosher, 71
market forms of, 82
stock, 262, 268
variety meats, 81, 8 2 -8 3
Vegetable chef (entremetier), 9
Vegetable oil, 233
Vegetables. See also specific vegetables
as appetizer, 947
aromatic. See Aromatic vegetables
baking, 661 -6 6 3
boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0
broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314
chowders, 320
cutting. See Cutting vegetables and
herbs
defined, 129
doneness, 649, 680
dried, rehydrating, 645
dried, toasting, 645
edible portion, 19
guidelines, 680
heirloom, 11
locally grown, 11,128
organic, 11,128
pan frying, 671-673
pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7
en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9
peeling, 619
in polenta, 759
production methods, 11,128
pureeing, 664
reheating, 680
roasting. See Roasted vegetables
salads, 894
sauteing, 6 6 5 -6 6 7
selecting, 128
shocking to cool, 650
soup, clear, 312
soup, puree, 321
steaming, 651-653
stewing/braising, 677-679
stir-frying, 6 6 8 -6 7 0
stock, 254, 255, 256, 260, 262
storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9
sweating, 242, 276, 666, 670

trimming, 623
usable trim, 19
yield, calculating, 18
Vegetarian diet, protein in, 24
Veloute
in bisque, 326, 328
in cream soup, 316
sauce, 274, 278
Venison, cuts of, 94
Venus grapes, 137
Vermicelli, 214
Vermilion snapper, 107,108
Vertical chopping machine (VCM), 68
Villeroy sauce, 278
Vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 -8 8 2 , 889
Vin blanc sauce, 278
Vinegar, 234
flavored, 883
in mayonnaise, 884
in vinaigrette, 881, 882
Viruses, 32
Vitamin A, 26
Vitamin B-complex, 26
Vitamin C, 26
Vitamin D, 26
Vitamin E, 26
Vitamin K, 26
Vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5
functions and food sources, 26
Volume measure, 15,17
conversions, 17,1163
W
Waffie/gaufrette knife cut, 628
Walk-in refrigeration, 65
Walleyed pike, 107,108
Walnut oil, 233
Walnuts, 219, 221
Water bath, 57, 5 5 0 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3 ,1 0 9 6 ,
1117
Watercress, 156,157
Watermelon, 138,139
Weakfish, 108
Weight measure, 15,17
conversions, 17,1163
equivalents, 1166
Wheat, 201, 203
Wheat allergies, 37
Wheat berries, 201, 203,1162
Wheat bran, 201, 203
Wheat flour, 202, 203 ,1 0 2 6
Wheat germ, 201, 203
Whelk, 119
Whipped cream
heavy cream for, 182,183
in mousse, 948, 949, 951
stages of, 1019
Whisks, 52, 53
White sauce, 2 7 4 -2 7 9
White stock, 254, 256, 260, 262
Whole grains, 200
Whole wheat flour, 202, 203
Wild rice, 204, 205,1162

William pears (Bartlett), 140,141
Wine
in pan sauce, 491
selecting, 235
Wine steward (ch efd e vin), 10
Wok, 59, 669
Wolffish, 105,106
Wood
in grilling process, 424
in smoking process, 434
Workplace
drug and alcohol abuse in, 39
government regulations in, 39
orderly, 7
safety, 6, 38
World cuisines, and culinary exchange,
12
Yams, 173
Yard-long beans (Chinese long beans),
166,167
Yeast, 234
types of, 1017
viability of, 1026-1027
Yeast dough
baking loaves, 1031
enriched and lean, 1026
fermentation, 1027,1029,1031
finishing methods, 1032
ingredients for, 1026-1027
mixing methods, 1027-1028
resting, 1029
shaping, 1030
Yellow potatoes, 171,173
Yellow squash, 150,151
Yellowtail snapper, 107,108
Yield
as-purchased quantity, 18
edible portion quantity, 19
of fruit and vegetables, 18
recipe conversion factor, 16
Yield percent, 18,19
Yogurt, 183,184
frozen, 184
Yucca (manioc), 172,173
Yukon gold potatoes, 171,173
Z
Zest, citrus, 891
Zingara sauce, 273
Zucchini, 150,151

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essional chef

The Culinary Institute of America

This book is printed on acid-free paper. @

THE C ULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

Dr. Tim Ryan 1 1

Senior Director, Educational Enterprises

Editorial Project Managers

Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00

Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell 08

Published by John W iley <5 Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

Master Recipe List

THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE

tools and ingredients in the

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME ID ENTIFIC ATION

FISH AND SHE LLFISH ID EN TIFICATIO N

FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB ID EN TIFICATION

D AIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND ID ENTIFIC ATIO N

DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION

stocks, sauces, and soups

MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS

meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish

Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING

BRAISING AND STEWING

vegetables, potatoes, grains and

MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS

COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES

COOKING PASTA AND D U M P LIN G S

SALAD DRESSINGS AND S A LA D S

HORS D'OEUVRE AND A PPETIZER S

C HARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER

breakfast and garde manger

baking and pastry

Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS

Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES

FILLIN G S, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES

Readings and R esources

master recipe list

WHITE VEAL STOCK

WHITE BEEF STOCK

Brown Veal Stock

BROWN GAME STOCK (JU S DE

Puree of Lentil Soup

Puree of Split Pea Soup 3 4 5

BROWN PORK STOCK

GREEN ONION BUTTER

BROWN DUCK STOCK

Senate Bean Soup

CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE.

Ichi Ban Dashi

JUS DE CANARD LIE

JUS D'AGNEAU LIE:

CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE

CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE

CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME

M A S T E R REC IPE LIST

Vegetable Soup, Emilia

Cream of Broccoli Soup 33 9

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP W ITH

Tuscan W hite Bean and