Embroidery: From Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia
Embroidery: From Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia
Embroidery: From Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia
FromWikipedia,thefreeencyclopedia
Thisarticleisabouthandcraft.ForBradbury'sshortstory,seeEmbroidery(shortstory).
Goldembroideryonthegognots(apron)ofa19thcenturyArmenianbridaldressfromAkhaltsikhe.
Embroideryisthehandicraftofdecoratingfabricorothermaterialswithneedleandthreadoryarn.Embroidery
mayalsoincorporateothermaterialssuchasmetalstrips,pearls,beads,quills,andsequins.Today,embroideryis
mostoftenseenoncaps,hats,coats,blankets,dressshirts,denim,stockings,andgolfshirts.Embroideryis
availablewithawidevarietyofthreadoryarncolor.
Thebasictechniquesorstitchesonsurvivingexamplesoftheearliestembroiderychainstitch,buttonholeor
blanketstitch,runningstitch,satinstitch,crossstitchremainthefundamentaltechniquesofhandembroidery
today.
Contents
[hide]
1History
o
1.1Origins
1.2Historicalapplicationsandtechniques
1.2.1TheIslamicworld
1.3Automation
2Classification
3Materials
4Machine
5Qualifications
6Gallery
7Seealso
8Notes
9References
History[edit]
TraditionalembroideryinchainstitchonaKazakhrug,contemporary.
Caucasusembroidery
Origins[edit]
Theprocessusedtotailor,patch,mendandreinforceclothfosteredthedevelopmentofsewingtechniques,andthe
decorativepossibilitiesofsewingledtotheartofembroidery.[1]Indeed,theremarkablestabilityofbasic
embroiderystitcheshasbeennoted:
Itisastrikingfactthatinthedevelopmentofembroidery...therearenochangesofmaterialsortechniqueswhich
canbefeltorinterpretedasadvancesfromaprimitivetoalater,morerefinedstage.Ontheotherhand,weoften
findinearlyworksatechnicalaccomplishmentandhighstandardofcraftsmanshiprarelyattainedinlatertimes.[2]
Theartofembroideryhasbeenfoundworldwideandseveralearlyexampleshavebeenfound.WorksinChina
havebeendatedtotheWarringStatesperiod(5th3rdcenturyBC).[3]InagarmentfromMigrationperiodSweden,
roughly300700AD,theedgesofbandsoftrimmingarereinforcedwithrunningstitch,backstitch,stemstitch,
tailor'sbuttonholestitch,andwhipstitching,butitisuncertainwhetherthisworksimplyreinforcedtheseamsor
shouldbeinterpretedasdecorativeembroidery.[4]
Historicalapplicationsandtechniques[edit]
Dependingontime,locationandmaterialsavailable,embroiderycouldbethedomainofafewexpertsora
widespread,populartechnique.Thisflexibilityledtoavarietyofworks,fromtheroyaltothemundane.
Elaboratelyembroideredclothing,religiousobjects,andhouseholditemsoftenwereseenasamarkofwealthand
status,asinthecaseofOpusAnglicanum,atechniqueusedbyprofessionalworkshopsandguildsin
medievalEngland.[5]In18thcenturyEnglandanditscolonies,samplersemployingfinesilkswereproducedbythe
daughtersofwealthyfamilies.Embroiderywasaskillmarkingagirl'spathintowomanhoodaswellasconveying
rankandsocialstanding.[6]
Conversely,embroideryisalsoafolkart,usingmaterialsthatwereaccessibletononprofessionals.Examples
includeHardangerfromNorway,MerezhkafromUkraine,MountmellickembroideryfromIreland,Nakshi
kanthafromBangladeshandWestBengal,andBrazilianembroidery.Manytechniqueshadapracticalusesuch
asSashikofromJapan,whichwasusedasawaytoreinforceclothing.[citationneeded]
TheIslamicworld[edit]
Moroccofezhorsecovermetalsilverthread18th19th
Furtherinformation:Islamicembroidery
EmbroiderywasanimportantartintheMedievalIslamicworld.The17thcenturyTurkishtravelerEvliya
elebicalleditthe"craftofthetwohands".BecauseembroiderywasasignofhighsocialstatusinMuslim
societies,itbecamewidelypopular.IncitiessuchasDamascus,CairoandIstanbul,embroiderywasvisible
onhandkerchiefs,uniforms,flags,calligraphy,shoes,robes,tunics,horsetrappings,slippers,sheaths,pouches,
covers,andevenonleatherbelts.Craftsmenembroidereditemswithgoldandsilverthread.Embroiderycottage
industries,someemployingover800people,grewtosupplytheseitems.[7]
Inthe16thcentury,inthereignoftheMughalEmperorAkbar,hischroniclerAbualFazlibnMubarakwrotein
thefamousAiniAkbari:"Hismajesty(Akbar)paysmuchattentiontovariousstuffs;henceIrani,Ottoman,
andMongolianarticlesofwearareinmuchabundanceespeciallytextilesembroideredinthepatterns
ofNakshi,Saadi,Chikhan,Ari,Zardozi,Wastli,GotaandKohra.Theimperialworkshopsinthetowns
ofLahore,Agra,FatehpurandAhmedabadturnoutmanymasterpiecesofworkmanshipinfabrics,andthefigures
andpatterns,knotsandvarietyoffashionswhichnowprevailastonisheventhemostexperiencedtravelers.Taste
forfinematerialhassincebecomegeneral,andthedraperyofembroideredfabricsusedatfeastssurpassesevery
description."[8]
Automation[edit]
ThedevelopmentofmachineembroideryanditsmassproductioncameaboutinstagesintheIndustrial
Revolution.Theearliestmachineembroideryusedacombinationofmachineloomsandteamsofwomen
embroideringthetextilesbyhand.ThiswasdoneinFrancebythemid1800s.[9]Themanufactureofmachinemade
embroideriesinSt.GallenineasternSwitzerlandflourishedinthelatterhalfofthe19thcentury.[10]
HandmadeembroiderySzkelyLand,2014
Classification[edit]
Japanesefreeembroideryinsilkandmetalthreads,contemporary.
EmbroideredEastereggs.WorksbyInnaForostyuk,thefolkmasterfromtheLuhanskregion(Ukraine)
Embroiderycanbeclassifiedaccordingtowhatdegreethedesigntakesintoaccountthenatureofthebasematerial
andbytherelationshipofstitchplacementtothefabric.Themaincategoriesarefreeorsurfaceembroidery,
countedembroideryandneedlepointorcanvaswork.[11]
Infreeorsurfaceembroidery,designsareappliedwithoutregardtotheweaveoftheunderlyingfabric.Examples
includecrewelandtraditionalChineseandJapaneseembroidery.
Crossstitchcountedthreadembroidery.Teacloth,Hungary,mid20thcentury
Countedthreadembroiderypatternsarecreatedbymakingstitchesoverapredeterminednumberofthreadsinthe
foundationfabric.Countedthreadembroideryismoreeasilyworkedonanevenweavefoundationfabricsuchas
embroiderycanvas,aidacloth,orspeciallywovencottonandlinenfabrics.Examplesincludecrossstitchand
someformsofblackworkembroidery.
Hardanger,awhiteworktechnique.Contemporary.
Whilesimilartocountedthreadinregardstotechnique,incanvasworkorneedlepointthreadsarestitchedthrough
afabricmeshtocreateadensepatternthatcompletelycoversthefoundationfabric.[12]Examplesofcanvaswork
includebargelloandBerlinwoolwork.
Embroiderycanalsobeclassifiedbythesimilarityofappearance.Indrawnthreadworkandcutwork,the
foundationfabricisdeformedorcutawaytocreateholesthatarethenembellishedwithembroidery,oftenwith
threadinthesamecolorasthefoundationfabric.Whencreatedwithwhitethreadonwhitelinenorcotton,this
workiscollectivelyreferredtoaswhitework.[13]However,whiteworkcaneitherbecountedorfree.Hardanger
embroideryisacountedembroideryandthedesignsareoftengeometric.[14]Conversely,stylessuchasBroderie
anglaisearesimilartofreeembroidery,withfloralorabstractdesignsthatarenotdependentontheweaveofthe
fabric.[15]
Materials[edit]
PhulkarifromthePunjabregionofIndia.Phulkariembroidery,popularsinceatleastthe15thcentury,is
traditionallydoneonhandspuncottonclothwithsimpledarningstitchesusingsilkfloss.
Laidthreads,asurfacetechniqueinwoolonlinen.TheBayeuxTapestry,11thcentury.
Thefabricsandyarnsusedintraditionalembroideryvaryfromplacetoplace.Wool,linen,andsilkhavebeenin
useforthousandsofyearsforbothfabricandyarn.Today,embroiderythreadismanufacturedincotton,rayon,
andnoveltyyarnsaswellasintraditionalwool,linen,andsilk.Ribbonembroideryusesnarrowribboninsilkor
silk/organzablendribbon,mostcommonlytocreatefloralmotifs.[16]
Surfaceembroiderytechniquessuchaschainstitchandcouchingorlaidworkarethemosteconomicalof
expensiveyarns;couchingisgenerallyusedforgoldwork.Canvasworktechniques,inwhichlargeamountsof
yarnareburiedonthebackofthework,usemorematerialsbutprovideasturdierandmoresubstantialfinished
textile.[17]
Inbothcanvasworkandsurfaceembroideryanembroideryhooporframecanbeusedtostretchthematerialand
ensureevenstitchingtensionthatpreventspatterndistortion.Moderncanvasworktendstofollowsymmetrical
countedstitchingpatternswithdesignsemergingfromtherepetitionofoneorjustafewsimilarstitchesina
varietyofhues.Incontrast,manyformsofsurfaceembroiderymakeuseofawiderangeofstitchingpatternsina
singlepieceofwork.[18]
Machine[edit]
Commercialmachineembroideryinchainstitchonavoilecurtain,China,early21stcentury.
Contemporaryembroideryisstitchedwithacomputerizedembroiderymachineusingpatternsdigitized
withembroiderysoftware.Inmachineembroidery,differenttypesof"fills"addtextureanddesigntothefinished
work.Machineembroideryisusedtoaddlogosandmonogramstobusinessshirtsorjackets,gifts,andteam
apparelaswellastodecoratehouseholdlinens,draperies,anddecoratorfabricsthatmimictheelaboratehand
embroideryofthepast.
Therehasalsobeenadevelopmentinfreehandmachineembroidery,newmachineshavebeendesignedthatallow
fortheusertocreatefreemotionembroiderywhichhasitsplaceintextilearts,quilting,dressmaking,home
furnishingsandmore.[19]
Qualifications[edit]
CityandGuildsqualification[20]inEmbroideryallowsembroidererstobecomerecognizedfortheirskill.This
qualificationalsogivesthemthecredibilitytoteach.Forexample,thenotabletextilesartist,KathleenLaurelSage
TextilesArtist,[21]beganherteachingcareerbygettingtheCityandGuildsEmbroidery1and2qualifications.She
hasnowgoneontowriteabookonthesubject.[22]
Gallery[edit]
Detailofembroideredsilkgauzeritualgarment.Rowsofeven,roundchainstitchusedforoutlineand
color.4thcenturyBC,ZhoutombatMashan,Hubei,China.
Englishcope,late15thorearly16thcentury.Silkvelvetembroideredwithsilkandgoldthreads,
closelylaidandcouched.ContemporaryArtInstituteofChicagotextilecollection.
ExtremelyfineunderlayofSt.GallenEmbroidery
TraditionalTurkishembroidery.IzmirEthnographyMuseum,Turkey.
TraditionalCroatianembroidery.
BrightlycolouredKoreanembroidery.
Uzbekistanembroideryonatraditionalwomen'sparandjarobe.
TraditionalPeruvianembroideredfloralmotifs.
WomanwearingatraditionalembroideredKalashheaddress,Pakistan.
DecorativeembroideryonatefillinbaginJerusalem,Israel.
BookmarkofblackfabricwithmulticoloredBedouinembroideryandtasselofembroideryfloss
ChainstitchembroideryfromEnglandcirca1775
TraditionalBulgarianFloralembroderyfromSofiaandTrun
See also[edit]
Notes[edit]
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Jumpup^GillowandBryan1999,p.12
Jumpup^MarieSchuetteandSigridMullerChristensen,TheArtof
EmbroiderytranslatedbyDonaldKing,ThamesandHudson,1964,quotedinNethertonand
OwenCrocker2005,p.2
Jumpup^GillowandBryan1999,p.178
Jumpup^Coatsworth,Elizabeth:"StitchesinTime:EstablishingaHistoryofAnglo
SaxonEmbroidery",inNethertonandOwenCrocker2005,p.2
Jumpup^LeveyandKing1993,p.12
Jumpup^Power,Lisa(27March2015)."NGVembroideryexhibition:imaginea12
yearoldspendingtwoyearsonthis...".TheSydneyMorningHerald.Retrieved30May2015.
7.
Jumpup^"SaudiAramcoWorld
:TheSkilloftheTwoHands".
8.
Jumpup^"SaudiAramcoWorld
:MughalMaal".
9.
Jumpup^Knight,Charles(1858).PictorialGalleryofArts.England.
10.
Jumpup^Rllin,Peter.StickereiZeit,KulturundKunstinSt.Gallen18701930.VGS
Verlagsgemeinschaft,St.Gallen1989,ISBN3729110527(inGerman)
11.
Jumpup^Corbet,Mary(October3,2016)."NeedleworkTerminology:Surface
Embroidery".RetrievedNovember1,2016.
12.
Jumpup^GillowandBryan1999,p.198
13.
Jumpup^ReadersDigest1979,pp.7491
14.
Jumpup^YvetteStanton.EarlyStyleHardanger.VettyCreations.ISBN9780
975767771.
15.
Jumpup^CatherineAmorosoLeslie(1January2007).NeedleworkThroughHistory:
AnEncyclopedia.GreenwoodPublishingGroup.pp.34,226,58.ISBN9780313335488.
Retrieved13September2013.
16.
Jumpup^vanNiekerk2006
17.
Jumpup^ReadersDigest1979,pp.112115
18.
Jumpup^ReadersDigest1979,pp.119,112117
19.
Jumpup^"Usinglogoembroidery".OekakiRenaissance.Retrieved10November2015.
20.
Jumpup^"Creative".
21.
Jumpup^"ALittleAboutMe".KathleenLaurelSage.
22.
Jumpup^TheZenCartTeam;etal."EmbroideredSolderedandHeatZapped
SurfacesbyKathleenLaurelSage".
References[edit]
WikimediaCommonshas
mediarelated
toEmbroidery.
Berman, Pat (2000). "Berlin Work". American Needlepoint Guild. Retrieved 200901-24.
Caulfield, S.F.A.; B.C. Saward (1885). The Dictionary of Needlework.
Crummy, Andrew (2010). The Prestonpans Tapestry 1745. Burke's Peerage &
Gentry, for Battle of Prestonpans (1745) Heritage Trust.
Levey, S. M.; D. King (1993). The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection
Vol. 3: Embroidery in Britain from 1200 to 1750. Victoria and Albert Museum. ISBN 185177-126-3.
Quinault, Marie-Jo (2003). Filet Lace, Introduction to the Linen Stitch. Trafford
Publishing. ISBN 1-4120-1549-9.
Readers Digest (1979). Complete Guide to Needlework. Readers Digest. ISBN 089577-059-8.