Delawarr 9 Complete
Delawarr 9 Complete
Delawarr 9 Complete
rotating shaft extending a few inches down from the top panel, mounted directly
behind the first tuning dial in the series. It puzzeld me at first as to what the
shaft was for I wondered if there was a missing part. But I learned that the
shaft is magnetized, and it is an integral part of the design. It happens that I had
a solid rod magnet I had purchased some time ago just out of curiosity, and with
the feeling I would use it in some device someday. The rod is interesting as it is
magnetized at right angles instead of lengthwise in other words, the instead of
the N and S poles being at the ends, one side of the rod is N and the other is S.
to specific rate numbers for a given target (the manual comes with an atlas of
rates) and turning the magnet dial to tune while rubbing the stick pad.
I followed the wiring pattern exactly, although I added one new circuit path and
feature a ground plane. In the original, only the center tap and one side of the
potentiometers were connected (making them functionally rheostats.) So I
connected the other taps together as the ground buss (as common with most
The box is plain wood with a Bakelite front panel. The pots are all 10k ohm (as
in the original) except for the first dial, which is 100k, and its dial plate is
calibrated from 0-100 instead of 0-10. Peter explained to me that the original
Here are some more photos of the finished device, along with the front panel of
the original for comparison.
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Dials, plugs and crystals mounted in the case, ready for wiring
Its a pretty simple device, however Ive added a few extra modifications. The
basic design is a passive circuit, but I wanted it to have a amplifier, so I used a
block of orgonite and a crystal I had lying around the shop and devised an
Crystal/organite amplifier
I took the block of orgonite, and wrapped 24-turns (my machines all have coils
wound in multiples of eight) of insulated magnet wire around the block, leaving
lots of extra wire tails, then mounted it to a small, crystal mirror with beveled
edges (makes the mirror a circular prism). I wrapped the base of a small quartz
crystal with a strip of brass (conductive metal) to make a collar, and held it in
place with cyanoacrylate glue, making sure the metal was in contact with the
quartz. Then I carefully glued the inside of the collar to the top of the orgonite,
making sure the metal edge was in contact with it. So, the circuit is: mirror
>orgonite>metal bezel>quartz crystal, which makes for a good orgone Holy
Hand Grenade type device. The coil wires are used to connect it into the output
of the tuning circuit, between the last tuning dial and the stick-pad/output.
Final assembly
Each tuning dial is a precision, sealed 10k ohm potentiometer. I found some
metal dial plates with 0-100 increments to give the dials a very professional
look, which is a much more accurate scale than knobs with numbers on them.
(And I didnt have to deal with decals for the numbering.) The stick pad is an
eight-turn bifilar coil of magnet wire sandwiched between a layer of vinyl (vinyl
plastic is a known insulator of eloptic energy) and a touch-pad of bakelite. The
witness plate is a solid brass plate, a layer of bakelite, and another layer of brass,
which is connected to the wires, which then pass through small holes in the top.
The leads are long enough to open the box and rest the top on the bench, so I
wrapped the wires with heat-shrink tubing and put a dab of silicon goop over
the holes to reinforce the wires magnet wire can break easily if its flexed too
much. A double-terminated quartz crystal with eight turns of wire is in the
circuit between each pot to increase the tuning sensitivity (a total of three). The
witness and stick plates are paralleled to the input and output connections, so I
can plug in hand contact grips, conductive wrist bands, or an external witness
well. I can also inject audio or RF signals into the device. To the outputs I can
attach probes, antennas, or feed into an external amplifier for improved
broadcasting power.
I decided run all the wiring to a terminal block, in order to keep it neat and
make the wiring more solid than is possible when soldering everything directly
point-to-point. I also added a grounding post to the back panel. The screw-on
wire connections on the terminal block also allow me to make easy
modifications later. I might add an active electronic VHF amplifier in the future
theres still lots of room left inside the case.
http://josephmax.wordpress.com/2011/01/04/my-three-dial-radionicsmachine/
Author: Sorynzar
Presented here for your delectation is a super simple three dial radionics schematic.
There is no techno jargon, or standard schematic imagery. The circuit is simple as
shown. The black lines represent wires, and their connections. The bottom row of
wiring simply shows that the last post on each potentiometer is connected to the last
post on the next.
This type of circuit is also known within radionics as a passive resistance circuit. There
are no coils, crystals, or amplifiers within this circuit, but that does not detract from its
raw power. Generally, this circuit can be used to copy homeopathic remedies, or for
imbuing a witnesses sample with a particular trend. For the latter, the witness sample
would be placed on the output, and the trend would be placed on the input. The trend
could take the form of a remedy, written or pictorial intention, etc. For use in
agricultural radionics for instance; fertilizer, or pesticides could be placed on the input
plate, and their rates dowsed for with a pendulum.
What you will need:
Two copper discs, or copper sheets. Copper is not necessary, but it by far the
best candidate for our purpose. If you are struggling to find copper, you can use
brass, aluminium, or stainless steel as a last resort. If you are extremely lucky,
you can even use gold, or silver sheet!
You will need a length of wire to wire up the potentiometer. Some researchers
use solid clear enameled copper wire, but I find regular bell wire or equipment
wire works just as well. Again, you can get some regular stranded single core
wire from hardware stores or online. You will probably need less than a meter
for this, but just to be on the safe side, and to have some surplus for a future
project, get hold of a meter, or several feet worth.
You will also need something for stripping the wire; a pair of wire cutters can be
used once you get the hang of it, or a craft knife.
In order to connect the wires to the potentiometers, you will need to Solder. For
a beginner with no electronics experience, this is often a stumbling block. You
can get hold of cheap soldering irons on the internet. You will only need
something rated at 25-30W. Get yourself a book on soldering for beginners, and
a reel of silver based solder. It really is quite easy to do, and once you learn this
new skill you can use it for future projects.If this still puts you off, there is a
product called Wire glue which will literally allow you to glue the wires to the
potentiometers and plates. Failing that you could use some electrical tape. I
wouldnt advocate this, but it is possible as a last resort.
You will also need some type of box to mount everything in. Charles Cossimano
suggests a shoe box. This can work well if you are on a budget. Personally, I use
wooden boxes where possible. However, if you really have to, an ABS plastic
box will work o.k.
In order to mount the potentiometers. You will require a drill, and selection of
drill bits.
Finally; x4 bolts x8 washers, and at least four nuts. To top this off three
potentiometer dials. Again, these are available from places such as Ebay, and
Radio Shack, etc.
Once you have all your components you can begin to build to the above diagram. You
should have chosen an enclosure/box which will allow you enough room to mount
everything on one surface, usually the top. If it doesnt, not to worry; some people will
mount the plates on the top surface, and the dials on one of the sides to make more
room.
Its quite simple from here on in. Use your intuition, and build an instrument which you
find visually and aesthetically appealing, as this will increase its potential. You are
imbuing the device with your own power, use it wisely.
This information is free to copy and distribute. All I ask as my copyright condition is
that you attribute the work back to BerkanaPath.com. These posts and diagrams take a
great amount of work, and it is saddening when people abuse the work of others. This is
why I am being forced to watermark all of my intellectual properties. Thank you for
understanding.
http://www.berkanapath.com/radionics/category/radionics/radionicsschematics/