Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Hair Dye
Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Hair Dye
Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Hair Dye
2 (10), 2010,648-656
1. Introduction
In comparison to natural hair dyes,
synthetic hair dyes are reported to cause
skin and other skin related diseases. The
manufacturing process is hazardous to
health of the people involved in the
process and its applications leads to
environmental pollution and also causes
potential side effects to the consumers of
the product. The fear of side effects from
the synthetic dyes has limited its use by
health conscious customers throughout the
world and has to overcome various
regulatory barriers before it reaches its
destination.
A dye can generally be described as a
colored substance that has an affinity to
the fiber, fur or hair. The dye is generally
applied as aqueous solution, and may
require a mordant to improve the fastness
of the dye on the fiber, fur or hair. Natural
dyes also referred as mordant dyes.
Different mordant will give different hue
color with the same dye. A mordant is thus
an agent which allows a reaction to occur
between the dye and the fiber, hair or fur
[1].
Hair dyes include dyes modifiers,
antioxidants, alkalizers, soaps, ammonia,
wetting agents, fragrance, and a variety of
other chemicals used in small amounts that
impart special qualities to hair such as
softening the texture or give a desired
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Step 1: Collection of raw materials from medicinal plant garden and authenticated by the Botanist.
Step 2: Evaluation of purity and quality of raw materials by physical, chemical, analytical and
microscopical techniques.
Step 3 : 100 g of the dried Tagetes erecta powder was treated with 100 ml of distilled water and
was heated for one hour at 1000C. The extract was filtered to obtain a yellowish brown dye solution.
The optical density was recorded. The extracted dye solution was evaporated to 1/10th volume under
controlled temperature. The concentrated extract was subjected to freeze drying and the final yield
was found to be 33 g.
Step 5 : Fresh leaves of Aloe vera were collected washed thoroughly and the outer green surface
(pericyclic fibers) was peeled off and the inner fillers, white mass was collected by cooping. 100 g
of the collected material was crushed to a semi-solid consistency which was subjected to filtration.
The filtrate was subjected to evaporation to 1/10TH of its volume under controlled temperature
(60C) and the final yield was found to be 45 g.
Step 6 : Quantitative determination of the active constituents namely flavanoids, tannins, carotenoid
and polysaccharides by using HPTLC/ HPLC technique.
Step Step 7 : Formulation of natural dye with mordant: 30g aqueous extract of Cymphomandra
betacea containing 35 % flavanoid and 10% tannins , 30g Aqueous extract of Tagetes erecta
containing 20% carotenoid and 40g Aloe vera gel, as natural mordant, containing 0.3%
polysaccharide and 98.5% water were mixed together.
Flow Chart: 1
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Nilani Packianathan et al, /J. Pharm. Sci. & Res. Vol.2 (10), 2010,648-656
Table 1: Comparison of coloring effect of herbal hair dye with marketed brands on human
hair
Name of the hair dye with
Coloring effect & Duration of
Physical
constituent
fastness property
exposure
appearance
1. Natural hair dyed marigold flower
4/5 to 5
dye + Aloe vera juice
2. Semi synthetic hair dye
Indigo herbal hair color. (Henna,
Amla, Bringraj, Methi, Hibiscus,
4/5 to 5
resorcinol, Paraphenylene diamine
and H2O2 )
3. Synthetic hair dye
Godrej permanent hair dye
4/5 to 5
(Paraphenylene diamine)
30minutes
No damage
15minutes
Cortex
damaged
15minutes
Cortex
damaged
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Nilani Packianathan et al, /J. Pharm. Sci. & Res. Vol.2 (10), 2010,648-656
Figure 2: Comparison of coloring effect of herbal hair dye with marketed brands on human
hair
(a) - Microscopic structure of human grey hair treated with synthetic hair dye for 15 mnts; (b) - Microscopic
features of grey hair treated with synthetic hair dye showing damaged cortex after 2 treatments; (c) Microscopic structure of human grey hair treated with semi synthetic hair dye for 15 mnts; (d) - Microscopic
features of grey hair treated with semi synthetic hair dye showing damaged cortex after 2 treatments.
(b). Sample II
30%Aqueous extract of Cymphomandra
betaceae (Fruits) containing 35%
flavanoid and 10% tannins.
30% Aqueous extract of Tagetes erecta
(Flower) containing 20% carotenoid.
40% Aloe vera gel Leaf) containing 0.3%
polysaccharide and 98.5% water.
(c). Sample III
40%Aqueous extract of Cymphomandra
betaceae (Fruits) containing 35%
flavanoid and 10% tannins
40% Aqueous extract of Tagetes erecta
(Flower) containing 20% carotenoid
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Alcohol-soluble residue:
8 %, Accordance with WHO guideline
requirements
Water-soluble extracts:
43%, Accordance with WHO guidelines
requirements
Chemical assays:
Carbohydrates 0.3%, water 98.5%
Polysaccharide composition analysis by
gasliquid chromatography.
3.2.Aqueous extract of Tagetes erecta
Chemical assays:
20% carotenoid was estimated by HPLC
analyses.
Tagetes erecta extract was saponified and
analyzed for carotenoid composition.
HPLC analyses were performed on two
normal-phase columns (-Cyclobond and
silica) and on a C30 reversed-phase
column. The extract contained 93%
utilizable pigments (detected at 450 nm),
consisting of all-trans and cis isomers of
zeaxanthin (5%), all-trans and cis isomers
of lutein, and lutein esters (88%). All were
identified by chromatographic retention,
UVvisible spectra, and positive ion
electrospray mass spectrometry in
comparison to authentic standards. This
compositional determination is important
for the application of marigold extract in
cosmetic colorant because it contains more
biologically useful lutein compounds8.
3.3. Aqueous extract of Cymphomandra
betacea
Chemical assays:
35% flavanoid and 10% tannins by
Reverse phase HPLC and GC-MS
technique [8]. Reversed phase high
performance liquid chromatography was
used for the analysis of the plant extracts.
Gas chromatographymass spectrometry
method was also used for identification of
polyphenolic compounds after silylation.
The most abundant poly phenolic
compound was Ellagitannins, ferulic acid
and (+)-Catechin and ()-epicatechin were
the main flavonoids identified. This
compositional determination is important
for the application of tree tomato extract in
food and cosmetic industry as colorant anti
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