Manual Kart Enginer
Manual Kart Enginer
Manual Kart Enginer
Owners Manual
KART SETUP
GUIDE
www.arrowkarts.com
Advanced
Beginners
Contents
2
Cornering Diagrams
Rear Track
Front Track
Tyre Pressures
10
15
16
Seat Stays
16
19
Contents
Modification
Please note that under no circumstances does our Company authorise or recommend modifications
of any type whatsoever to Go Karts or components we produce. This includes any alternative methods
of assembly of any components. Any such alteration or modification performed is totally and solely
the responsibility of the person/persons carrying out the same.
Arrow Karts are designed strictly for racing purposes only, and not for any type of commercial
and/or rental use.
Protective Clothing
For your protection and safety when driving a Kart you must always wear the following:
NEVER wear loose fitting clothes or scarves. If you have long hair, it must be contained in a hair net
to prevent being entangled in any moving parts.
Warranty/Guarantee
As this is a racing/competition vehicle no Warranty or Guarantee, either written or implied, exists.
NEVER drive your Kart on any public highway, freeway, street or road. Doing this is illegal and
extremely dangerous. If you decide to resell or pass on your Arrow Kart, it is your responsibility
to pass on all the Safety maintenance information to the next owner/operator. In the event of an
accident, failure to pass on this information may mean you are held legally responsible.
Finally, we wish you many hours of fun, excitement and enjoyable racing. These guidelines are to help
you make it as safe as possible.
CORNERING diagrams
Many of the problems and kart behaviours mentioned in this Guide refer to the kart understeering or
oversteering, and also to the different parts of a corner where the behaviour occurs. The diagrams
below graphically explain these terms and behaviours.
Entry
(into turns)
Exit
(out of turns)
Apex
Turn-in
point
Rear of kart
slides out
Rear Track
Problem: Theres no traction/the kart is oversteering coming from the apex out of a corner
Solution: Reduce the rear track width by 3mm on both sides at a time.
Problem: The back slides/the kart oversteers going into the turns
Solution: Increase the rear track width by 3mm on both sides at a time, being careful not to
exceed the maximum regulation width overall of 1400mm.
Problem: There is understeer all the way through the turn
Solution: Increase the rear track width by 3mm on both sides at a time, being careful not to
exceed the maximum regulation width overall of 1400mm.
Problem: There is bounce in the rear
Solution: Increase the rear track width by 3mm on both sides at a time, being careful not to
exceed the maximum regulation width overall of 1400mm.
Problem: The track is very bumpy giving the kart a lot of bounce
Solution: Increase the rear track width by 3mm on both sides at a time, being careful not to
exceed the maximum regulation width overall of 1400mm.
Problem: The kart has a tendency to lift up on two wheels through the corners
Solution: Increase the rear track width by 3mm on both sides at a time, being careful not to
exceed the maximum regulation width overall of 1400mm.
Note: 3mm is the easiest jump to make as most wheel hub spacers
(shown at right) have a minimum of 3mm.
Why?
Narrowing the rear track will make the rear bite into the track and sometimes provide more rear grip.
However, avoid continually narrowing the rear track to obtain more grip as you will find that only so
much grip can be obtained and you will then be upsetting the balance of the kart making it much more
unstable and difficult to drive. The same applies when increasing rear track.
rear track
Important: Rear track is one of the most important single variables on a kart chassis. Different
driving styles and different tracks will require different settings. The standard setting is the best
starting point and we suggest you vary the rear track by no more than 5mm each side per change.
It is a weird karting phenomenon, but nevertheless a fact that in certain conditions a wider rear track
will provide more grip and, in contrast, different conditions may see a narrower rear track provide
more grip. We believe rear track is more an aid in balancing the kart and suggest you be prepared to
experiment to search for your own best setting.
Note: There is a pattern that shows taller drivers require wider rear track, and shorter drivers narrower.
Rear track measurement Overall width to outside edge of rear wheels...
Open type tyres (e.g. Bridgestone YGA)
1395-1400mm
1390-95mm
1375-85mm
1330mm
1115mm
Note: The above settings are to give you a suggested starting point
rear track
Front Track
Problem: Understeer on turn-in to the apex of the corner
Solution: Widen the front track by a 5mm wheel spacer at a time.
Problem: Oversteer or very sensitive front steering causing the rear to slide.
Solution: Narrow the front track width by a 5mm wheel spacer at a time.
Stub Axle
Spacers
Wheel
Stub Axle
front track
Spacers
Wheel
Tyre Pressures
It is imperative that your tyres do not overheat during a race, as they will lose grip and you will
lose speed!
We recommend that you Hot Pressure your tyres at the end of each session (i.e check the tyre
pressure immediately at the end of a session) then adjust all of the tyres to the working hot pressure.
Below is an approximate cold & hot pressure guide. For specifics, contact your local dealer.
Open tyres Cold 9-10 PSI Hot 12 PSI
SL type tyres Cold 12-14 PSI Hot 15-16 PSI
Low Grip SL tyres Cold 22-24 PSI Hot 26-27 PSI
Note: Due to the many specifications and compounds of kart tyres on the market today, we
suggest you seek information from your kart dealer or the particular tyre distributor.
11
1. Toe In/out
Toe in/out refers to the front wheels pointing in
towards each other (toe in) or outwards away from
each other (toe out) when viewed from above. Refer
to your kart setup specifications for the suggested
starting settings.
NOte: Excessive toe in or out may significantly
affect your karts top speed, as the
tyres will drag, acting like brakes.
12
Toe In
Toe Out
NOTE: You must check and reset the frond end alignment after any adjustment to the Ackerman.
Why?
Adjustable Ackerman on the Stub Axles Steering Arms and Steering Column
Arrow karts are supplied with stub axle steering arms that offer two settings as to where the tie rods
can be bolted. These bolt holes set the amount of Ackerman being run on the kart.
Firstly, lets explain how Ackerman works. If you take a piece of string 30cm long, and fix one end to
a table, at the free end make a mark at the tip then a second mark 5cm further in, 25cm from where
the string is fixed. The first mark you made represents the outside front tyre of your kart, the second
mark being the inside front tyre and the fixed end on the string being the fulcrum of the arc the kart is
going through in a corner. Keeping it tight, when you move the string straight off youll notice that the
inside front tyre is going through a smaller diameter arc than the outside tyre. All things being equal,
the inside front tyre needs to be turned more into the corner than the outside front, the principle used
to achieve this in a car or, in our case, kart is called Ackerman. The outside holes give almost parallel
steering meaning front wheels turn at almost the same rate one to the other. In using the inner hole
Front End Alignment
13
Maximum
Caster
Minimum
Caster
Negative Camber
14
Positive Camber
Front of Kart
CAMBER
CASTER
Front End alignment
Front
Minimum Caster
Front
Front
Neutral Caster
Maximum Caster
15
Front
Front
Minimum Caster
Maximum Caster
Negative/Positive Camber
Negative camber is when the top of the tyre leans towards the centre of the kart. Using negative
camber will reduce the amount of steering response the kart has, and will give more rear grip.
Positive camber is when the top of the tyre leans away from the centre of the kart. Using positive
camber will help to give the kart more direct steering feel, and will also help to give the kart more
mechanical jacking of the inside rear wheel.
By rotating the indicator lines towards the centre of the kart you will introduce increased positive
camber on the attached relevant front wheel, conversely by moving them away from the centre of the
kart you will increase negative camber (see below).
Negative
Front
Positive
Front
Negative
Minimum Caster
Positive
Negative
Front
Negative
Neutral Caster
Maximum Caster
Using Sniper alignment bars, the camber setting we recommend should be:
SL tyres: 0-2mm positive per side (meaning both front tyres should the same top to bottom, or
leaning out slightly at the top).
Open CIK Homologated tyres: 0-6mm negative per side (meaning both front tyres should be straight
up and down or up to a maximum of 6mm narrower at their tops than their bottoms).
16
Height Adjustable
Front Stub Axles
Problem: The front understeers on entry to 180 turns
Solution: Raise the front ride height i.e. lower
the front stub axles in the chassis by one spacer
at a time
Problem: The front understeers from the middle
to the exit of fast turns
Solution: Lower the front ride height i.e. raise
the front stub axles in the chassis by one spacer
at a time.
Why?
Height adjustable front stub axles are an aid to achieving that perfect kart set-up. What is being
achieved when the front stub axles are lowered or raised is raising and moving back or lowering and
moving forward the karts centre of gravity (c.o.g.).
When you lower the stubs in the frame you raise the karts front ride height. This raises the karts
c.o.g. as well as moving it further back. The effect on the kart will be to make it a little slower with
its immediate reaction on initial steering wheel input but from then on in the front will have more
grip into a corners apex. The effect of having moved the c.o.g. back will be to create more rear end
grip throughout the whole corner as well as making the rear of the kart sit flatter, especially from the
corners apex.
Be careful not to go too far when raising the front ride height. You might start feeling that your engine
is going off, losing mid-range pull out of the turns however the kart itself feels great. Wrong! What
is actually happening is that by going too high with the front ride height, the c.o.g. has been moved
too far back and is now making the kart sit too flat through the corner. By doing so, the kart is not
allowing any chassis jacking or differential effect i.e. not allowing the inside (unloaded) back wheel
to lift off the track through the corners apex, pulling the engine down as it tries to drive both the back
tyres which are mounted on a fixed axle yet are each trying to go through the corner at a different arc
to one other.
Note: By raising the stub axle in the chassis you lower the karts front ride height achieving
the reverse of the above.
At least one spacer must always remain above and below the stub axle.
17
Seat Stays
Problem: Theres no traction/the kart is
oversteering coming from the apex out of a corner
Solution: Mount seat stays on either side of the
seat. In certain applications 2 sets of seat stays
can be fitted.
Problem: The kart is unsettled over bumps
Solution: Remove the seat stays.
Problem: The kart is slow coming off corners, and is pushing from the rear
Solution: Remove the seat stays.
Note: Additional seat stays are available which fix to the axle bearing flanges and the top
section of the seat. Running four seat stays will significantly obtain a lot more rear grip.
Adjustable/Removable
Torsion Bars and Clamps
Problem: Theres no traction/the kart is oversteering coming from the apex out of a corner &
also on the entry into a corner
Solution:
1. Running the rear torsion bar full stiff (i.e.
with the blade of the torsion bar set vertically
to the tracks surface) will maximize rear
mechanical grip as well as reducing rear
chassis roll.
2. When karts are fitted with a removable side
torsion bar or are equipped with tensioning
bolts on the fourth rail, tighten the
tensioning bolts completely.
Adjustable/Removable
Torsion Bars and Clamps (cont)
Problem: There is understeer all the way through the turn
Solution:
1. Turning the rear torsion blade bar towards
the horizontal position will reduce rear
mechanical grip while increasing rear chassis
roll. If the rear torsion bar is already full soft,
remove the bar completely.
2. In the case that they are fitted, remove
the tensioning bolts from the side torsion
bar/fourth rail. If the tensioning bolts are
already removed from the side torsion bar
then remove the torsion bar altogether from
the kart.
Note: We recommend that you do not use the rear or side torsion bars at all, unless all other
options have been attempted. The exception is the 125 Shifter Kart, in which case the
rear bar should almost always be kept in and flat.
Problem: The kart oversteers, is too direct in the steering when entering corners
Solution: Remove front clamp or torsion bar.
Problem: The kart lacks initial steering and feels
vague in the front
Solution: Tighten front clamp and/or insert front
torsion bar.
Note: As a general rule, fitting and/or tightening torsion bars or clamps will increase
mechanical grip, while removing and/or loosening them will reduce mechanical grip.
Adjustable/Removable torsion bars & clamps
19
Adjustable/Removable
Torsion Bars and Clamps (cont)
Why?
1. Removable Front Torsion Bars & Clamps
Removable front torsion bars and clamps affect the mechanical grip of the front tyres. Removing
the front torsion bar in your kart will decrease front-end mechanical grip.
2. Adjustable/Removable Side Torsion Bar (chassis fourth rail)
The tension bolts on the fourth rail on some karts are designed to allow adjustment to the stiffness
of the centre section of these chassis rails. Under normal track conditions this bolt should be left
in and done up tight. As a track offers more grip or as rubber goes down on the driving line, then
the bolt should be loosened until the point you can turn it freely with your fingers. If the track has
good grip with a lot of rubber on the driving line or if the track is very bumpy then the bolt and its
spacer should be removed from the kart altogether.
Some Arrow karts also provide the ability to remove the fourth rail/side torsion bar completely.
Having the side bar fitted in your Kart will normally provide more grip. Conversely, removing this
torsion bar will reduce grip.
3. Adjustable/Removable Rear Torsion Bar
The adjustable/removable rear torsion bar is a good tool in helping to create more grip in the back
of your kart. Some Arrow karts are supplied with this chassis-tuning feature. This allows you to
fine tune the chassis by increasing or decreasing rear end grip. Running the bar full stiff (i.e. with
the blade of the torsion bar set vertically to the tracks surface,) will maximize rear mechanical grip
as well as reducing rear chassis roll. Turning the bar towards the horizontal position will reduce
rear mechanical grip while increasing rear chassis roll. Removing the rear torsion bar completely
is the free-est setting.
4. Centre Rail Torsion Clamp
In low to standard grip levels, removing the clamp will allow the kart to release better off the turn
and keep engine momentum up, but the kart will slide more. Fitting the clamp will provide more all
round grip to the kart, but exit speed off tighter turns will be lower.
In high grip conditions the chassis will already be flexing a lot more, therefore we recommend
fitting the clamp as it will provide more steering, better balance and the engine speed off the tighter
turns will be higher.
20
21
Height Adjustment
of the rear axle
AX9 125, CIK & B-MAX:
These karts feature Arrows unique cam adjusting ride-height adjustment system. Its user friendly
design makes it easy to set the ride-height for all conditions heres how...
1. Loosen engine clamp bolts, but do not remove the chain.
2. Loosen the seat stay bolts both at the top and the bottom.
3. Loosen all four bearing flange bolts on all three flanges.
Now youre ready to adjust the ride-height. The AX9 Arrow range of karts comes standard in the
central ride-height position. This means that both of the cam-adjusters lines will be facing forward.
4. Take the Ride-height spanner.
5. To achieve HIGH ride-height simply rotate the cam-adjusters so that both lines are facing
upward. To achieve LOW ride-height, continue the rotation until the lines are facing downward.
Note: When the cam adjuster line is pointing fully down it will hit a stopper. This will indicate
that it has reached its lowest ride-height point. The same will occur when the adjuster is
turned fully toward the front, this indicates that the axle is in the true central position.
6. Tighten all axle flange bolts, leaving the centre bearing to last.
7. Tighten all of your seat stay bolts, beginning with the lower ones.
8. Adjust your chain tension & then tighten the engine clamp bolts.
Note: The cam-adjuster bolt should remain tight enough not to move, yet loose enough so that
with the ride-height spanner you can still rotate the adjuster. This bolt has no effect on
retaining the bearing flange in the hanger.
22height adjustment of rear axle
Diameter
Wall Thickness
50mm
HARD Best suited to cold, low grip situations.
MEDIUM Workable in most racing conditions.
SOFT Provides less grip than the above two, although can be beneficial if the kart is slow exiting
corners due to excessive grip.
EXTREME SOFT This is an axle which is way off the scale. Be careful not to drive your grub screws
through it when installing! This axle is best suited to high grip tyres, though some independent testing
should be carried out to see how it works for you.
NOTE: Always check the grub screws after each session
40mm
HARD Best suited to cold, low grip situations.
MEDIUM Workable in most racing conditions.
SOFT Provides less grip than the above two, although can be beneficial if the kart is slow exiting
corners due to excessive grip.
EXTRA SOFT (2mm) This axle has a 2mm wall thickness and, although it is next in the line of axles, it
can have varied effects depending on track condition due to its wall thickness. It can be a very good
axle in high grip SL racing situations.
EXTREME SOFT This is not as extreme as the 50mm version. It has limited uses, though high grip
situations are where it will work best. Some independent testing should be carried out to see how it
works for you.
AXLES & WHEELS
23
25mm
SOLID This axle is rarely used (unless it is mandatory in Cadet racing under some associations),
through advances in technology, the 30mm thinwall axle has basically taken over its place.
24
25
Wet Weather
Wet Tyres (hard compound SL):
Front Track: Move front wheels out as far as possible.
Rear Track: Leave as per your dry setting or move hubs inwards 10mm each side.
Narrowing the rear track too much will result in front understeer.
Caster Adjustment: If time permits, adjusting to maximum caster (indicator lines to front of kart)
will reduce understeer.
Tyre Pressure: Extreme wet conditions:
Moderate wet conditions:
Drying conditions:
2530psi
2025psi
1520psi
1.702.05kg/cm2
1.351.70kg/cm2
1.001.35kg/cm2
26
12psi
14psi
0.80 kg/cm2
0.95 kg/cm2
Brake Adjustment
1. Pad Wear Adjustment
Problem: The engine has no top end speed
Solution: Verify the brakes are not dragging. If needed,
increase the gap between the rear brake pads and the
disc by removing shims between the caliper piston and
the brake pad.
Problem: Excessive pad clearance between each pad and
the disc (Pad adjustment is necessary when the clearance
between each pad and the disc exceeds 3mm)
Solution: Reduce the gap between the rear brake pads and the disc by fitting a shim
between the caliper piston and brake pad. You must do this on both sides to ensure pad
clearance to the disc is equal. Remove the pad safety pins and fit a shim between the caliper
piston and the brake pad. Refit the safety pins. You can fit additional shims as the pads
wear more, however, ensure you do not fit too many shims as this could cause the pad
return springs to spring bind and this will seriously affect your brake performance. Should
you encounter difficulty fitting the shims then remove the four pad return bolt/springs, fit
the shim and refit the return bolt/springs.
Note: The minimum clearance between each pad and the disc should be 1.5mm. Arrow karts
brakes are supplied with 4 adjustment shims (2 x 0.5mm thick and 2 x 1.0mm thick)
making adjustment simple.
27
Brake Maintenance
1. On Arrow karts fitted with nylon hydraulic brake lines, always check that the spring nut brake
line protection fitting is done up tight.
These Spring nuts are fitted at both ends of each
brake line to help protect the tubing from accidental
crimping. To do their job properly they must always
be done up tight. It is therefore essential that they
are checked each day before using your Arrow.
They have left hand threads so must be turned anticlockwise to be tightened.
2. Always check the feel of the brake pedal making
sure it feels hard without any sponginess.
If the pedal does feel a little spongy, bleed the system only using racing Dot-4 grade hydraulic brake
fluid. Before attempting to bleed the brake, retract the dust boot on master cylinder to check if the
piston is against the circlip (adjust the pushrod if necessary). To bleed the brake, depress master
cylinder lever. Whilst keeping pressure on the lever, open the bleed screw in the brake caliper. Keep
pressure on the master cylinder lever until the bleed screw is tightened. Release the lever. Repeat this
process while maintaining the reservoir fluid level, until the new fluid has been flushed through the
system. Repeat for other side of the caliper. If, having done this, the brake pedal still feels spongy,
check for leaks. As a safety check, make sure the pad retaining bolts are tight. We do check them at
the factory but double-checking never hurt anyone. Not checking might!
NOTE: Do not use Silicon brake fluid!
28
BRAKE MAINTENANCE
29
Blue Printing
Your Arrow Racing Kart
Arrow karts are highly sensitive machines. As you will soon find out, even the slightest of adjustments
can make the biggest of differences to the way the kart handles. These adjustments will have a very
large impact on the final results of your race weekend.
It is because of these factors that we have taken it upon ourselves to search for anything that could
contribute to making our karts and you both faster and more user friendly, we are hopeful that because
of this attention to detail that you ultimately get the results that you deserve.
Reducing unnecessary strain on components
Affixing Front Crash Bar
1. Tighten lower bolts through
chassis on both sides.
2. Tighten bolts in upright of front
crash bar.
2
Affixing Steering Upright & Column
1. Tighten the steering uprights
bottom two bolts.
2. Tighten the steering bush bolt.
3. Tighten nyloc nut at the bottom
of the steering column (from
underneath).
30
2
1
3
Blue Printing
Your Arrow Racing Kart (cont)
Affixing Side Pod Bars
Always tighten the rear bolt first as
the front hole is slotted.
31
Fitting Tyres
Fitting tyres will depend upon the class the kart is being assembled for. When inflating the tyre to seat
the bead, do not over inflate. There is a very real risk of serious injury if the manufacturers advice
printed on the sidewall of all tyres is not followed. To aid the seating of the bead a light coating of soap
applied before inflation and using external steel tyre rings around the tyre will help. Ensure all tyres
are wiped after this process and check for any damage or defects before placing the tyre on the kart.
Note: Using the Kartech Adjustable External
Steel Tyre Ring is important as a safety
issue as well as for performance. It
reduces the amount of pressure
required to seat the tyres bead onto
the rim. Apart from the obvious
safety advantage, this stops the
tyre from being stretched out of
circumference or shape.
32
FITTING TYRES
Important:
This card must be filled out by the Kart Dealer selling the kart and forwarded
to Arrow Karts Pty Ltd.
It is essential this registration card is on file should any queries
require future attention by Arrow Karts.
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Owners Name
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Address
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Age of owner
715
1620
2125
2630
3135
36+
_______________________________________________________________________________________
What other brand of kart has the owner previously owned ____________________________________________
Please remove this card and return to: Arrow Karts
PO Box 4105
Mulgrave VIC 3170 Australia
33
10
11
12
13
14
64
7.11
6.40
5.81
5.33
4.92
4.57
65
7.22
6.50
5.90
5.41
5.00
4.64
66
7.33
6.60
6.00
5.55
5.07
4.71
67
7.44
6.70
6.09
5.58
5.15
4.78
68
7.55
6.80
6.18
5.66
5.23
4.85
69
7.66
6.90
6.27
5.75
5.30
4.92
70
7.77
7.00
6.36
5.83
5.38
5.00
71
7.88
7.10
6.45
5.91
5.46
5.07
72
8.00
7.20
6.54
6.00
5.54
5.14
73
8.11
7.30
6.63
6.08
5.62
5.21
74
8.22
7.40
6.73
6.16
5.69
5.28
75
8.33
7.50
6.82
6.25
5.77
5.35
76
8.44
7.60
6.91
6.33
5.85
5.42
77
8.55
7.70
7.00
6.42
5.92
5.50
78
8.66
7.80
7.09
6.50
6.00
5.57
79
8.77
7.90
7.18
6.58
6.08
5.64
80
8.88
8.00
7.27
6.66
6.15
5.71
81
9.00
8.10
7.36
6.75
6.23
5.78
82
9.11
8.20
7.45
6.83
6.31
5.85
83
9.22
8.30
7.54
6.92
6.38
5.92
84
9.33
8.40
7.64
7.00
6.46
6.00
85
9.44
8.50
7.73
7.08
6.54
6.07
86
9.55
8.60
7.82
7.17
6.62
6.14
87
9.66
8.70
7.91
7.25
6.69
6.21
88
9.77
8.80
8.00
7.33
6.77
6.28
89
9.88
8.90
8.09
7.42
6.85
6.35
90
10.00
9.00
8.18
7.5
6.92
6.42
91
10.11
9.10
8.28
7.58
7.00
6.50
92
10.22
9.20
8.36
7.66
7.07
6.57
93
10.33
9.30
8.50
7.55
7.15
6.64
35
Axle Bearing:
Inspection
Retighten
Replacement
Retighten
Bolts & Nuts:
Retighten
Torque: 5Nm
(0.5m.kg, 3.6ft.lb)
Brakes:
Retighten
(spring nut brake
line protection)
Inspection (disc)
Inspection
(pad clearance)
Inspection
(fluid leaks)
Inspection
(brake response)
Retighten
Replacement
(brake pads)
Replacement
(brake fluid)
Brake Disc Hub
Cables:
Inspection
(brake cable)
Inspection
(throttle cable)
Replacement
Chain:
Inspection
Lubricate
Replacement
Chain Guard:
Inspection
Replacement
Refer to brake
maintenance section
on page 19
Runout Limit
1mm (0.04)
Clearance to disc
2.0mm maximum
Lubricate threads
Item
Drive Sprockets:
Inspection
Replacement
Engine:
Inspection
(red nylon inserts)
Fuel line/Fuel tank:
Inspection (tank)
Inspection (hose)
Cleaning (tank)
Replacement (hose)
Sprocket Hub:
Steering System:
Inspection 1
(movement)
Inspection 2
(damage)
Retighten
King Pins
Inspection
(tie rod ends)
Rear Bumper:
Inspection
Retighten
Immediately following
any crash/contact
Replace after 5
race meetings
Check inside tank that
fuel pickup has not
come adrift from the
outlet fitting
Lubricate threads
Immediately following
any crash/contact
Wheels/Tyres:
Air pressure
Inspection (wheels,
inc. bearings)
Inspection
(rear wheel hubs)
Retighten (wheels)
Replace (wheels)
Replace (tyres)
Lubricate threads
Troubleshooting
question & answer index
PROBLEM
HANDLING:
Rear grip (lack of)
POSSIBLE SOLUTION/S
PAGE
OVERSTEER General
BRAKES:
Brake Pads excessive clearance
Brake pedal pressure
ENGINE:
Lacks top end speed
Lacks mid range
36troubleshooting index
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