Runway Reviews: Laroche, GN, Dinnigan, Chisato, 2005
Runway Reviews: Laroche, GN, Dinnigan, Chisato, 2005
Runway Reviews: Laroche, GN, Dinnigan, Chisato, 2005
Showing at MAASTRICHT
4th - 14th March 2005
A winter season of romantic restraint
Stand No. 168 Continued from Page 9 Lesage, also backstage, pointed out the departures — unless you count a pair
intricate delicacy of a fine cashmere of flower-patterned coats and dresses
Tel +31 43 3838 686 vaded the collection, yet the black chif- shawl embellished with patterns in sprouting like precocious spring
fon veiling herringbone tweed was white astrakhan. Flung over a pair of among the winter darkness. But the
symbolic of the restraint. pants, it was a stand-out in the show. designer worked to perfection the
At YSL Rive Gauche, Stefano Pilati Other strong pieces were the pleated codes he has invented, giving a
committed a cardinal sin. Although this evening gowns that were gorgeous crumpled finish to the orange velvet
collection was more confident and cre- goddess looks. coat that opened the show, a row of
ative than his debut show last season, it Pilati worked so hard on detail and buttons at the back of a severe suit and
was overcomplicated, as a religious followed so creative a path that it an industrial zipper at the spine of a
theme ran riot. seems mean to criticize his vision. But light dress.
It was elegant in Pilati’s skinny ver- he is charged by Gucci Group to re-vi-
sion of a tuxedo with white blouse at the talize the YSL brand, and he should he clothes seemed more precise,
neck, loose lapels and cropped pants,
but far too much when he added ecclesi-
astical buttons in rows of three at a time
understand that the core essence of
Yves Saint Laurent is that elegance
lies in refusal.
T less casually fitted and without
the endearing touch of the unfin-
ished. They were therefore less quirky.
down the front of skirts or in balls of The best beloved Alber Elbaz does But the way that Elbaz played with the
scarlet on a long black dress. not need any more converts to his different silhouettes was masterful:
Although this outfit, like so much of graceful, womanly clothes at Lanvin. either short and wide for a swing coat
the collection, had the current graceful But there was Jade Jagger, brazening out or full skirt, or long and slim as in an
sobriety, it also had the uncomfortable the frosty venue with a white shearling over-the-knee trench coat. With the
look of re-incarnating Cardinal Riche- coat flung open to reveal a low-cut satin former, the models wore flat ballet slip-
lieu on the runway. blouse, as scarlet-painted toe nails pers; with the latter, heels.
More successful were the white peeped from dizzyingly high sandals. There were echoes of the designer’s
choirboy collars rising up the neck as if Then she saw the show and uttered the early career at YSL: a sharp tuxedo
in a Flemish painting to give a flourish unexpected words, ‘‘I think it is all the coat-dress or a playful feathered dress.
to austerity. The actress Kristin Scott more sexy to cover up and leave some- But Lanvin has a signature of its own,
Thomas praised this effect, saying that thing for later.’’ epitomized by the long gray jersey
she ‘‘found the use of cotton lawn so That is the starting point for Elbaz. dress that was the graceful antithesis of
delicate and pretty.’’ The base of his womanly look, which red carpet flash. And Elbaz can relish
Pilati said backstage: ‘‘I wanted has been such a hit at Lanvin, is in the the fact that he was one of the first de-
something rich with restraint.’’ And a concept of soft dresses and simple signers to bring back respect for women
wide belt with a seedbed of decoration coats, dressed up with smoke trails of and an appreciation for beauty that
cinching a yellow sweater had that ef- pearl or jet jewelry. have now spread through fashion.
fect. The embroiderer François His autumn collection had no new International Herald Tribune
NEW YORK PALM BEACH CHICAGO LAS VEGAS MONTE-CARLO COURCHEVEL MOSCOW DUBAI KUWAIT