Deadly Nightshades PDF
Deadly Nightshades PDF
Deadly Nightshades PDF
MAD APPLES
And
WOLF PEACHES
In my opinion no other group of plants has changed the way cooking has
evolved as significantly as these. From suspicion to seduction, from mad
apple to love apple, the story of the development and spread of these
wonderful food plants is a trip into the red zone, but beware one false
move and it’s the shades of night forever.
Of course it was a bit of a shock as I started to read about food and its
origins to realise that Paprika had arrived in Hungary from Turkey via
Spain from the Americas in the sixteenth century but did not feature
prominently in Magyar kitchens and restaurant menus till the nineteenth
century!
How about Asia without the chilli? Italy without a tomato? Spain without
a pimento?
If you think that telling a Hungarian that capsicums come from South
America is a challenge, how many Italians could care to admit that pasta
with tomato sauce is an Etruscan-American or Sino-American hybrid?
The potato was one of the first foods to be genetically engineered and it
may yet again seduce farmers by providing income from genetically
modified crops that will produce a type of plastic. It could be said that
that’s what some potato products taste like already.
Dried potato made its DEBut [sorry] high in the Andes several thousand
years ago in the form of chuño, where the sudden drop in overnight
temperature was used to freeze-dry potato that could be stored for years
providing insurance against famine. Chuño was also used to feed
the Spanish fleets on their return voyages.
When all these new plants first appeared it would have seemed like the
original “Attack of The Killer Tomatoes” as most nightshades or
solanaceae previously known or native to Europe were poisons
surrounded by superstition, black magic and witchcraft.
Mandrake has a history linked to debauchery and has been said to cure
anything except death, which it was also conveniently known to cause. It
was used to fool the Romans during Crucifixions and some have said that
because Jesus bled on the cross he was not dead but in a deep narcotic
sleep leading to a heretic’s view of the resurrection. Juliet may have taken
mandrake as her poison only to be resurrected later in a tomb. On
awakening she fears the shriek of the mandrake.
In the latest Harry Potter film, there is a nice episode where the students
are re-potting mandrakes. Because the shriek of a mandrake as it is being
pulled up causes madness and death, the old herbals show how to use a
dog to pull it up. In the film, all the students wear earmuffs.
Tobacco [that other infamous nightshade] has become the real
Montezuma’s or, to be more geographically accurate, the Mohican’s,
revenge.
From Mexico the tomato arrived in Spain where it initially attracted little
attention. The earliest botanical reference for tomato comes from the
herbal of Matthiolus in 1544 and historian Vernon Quinn[1942] records
its early passage from Seville to Morocco and then from Tangier to Italy.
Which might explain its first Italian name of Pomo dei mori or Moor’s
apple? Matthiolus named it pomi d’oro or golden apple, perhaps because
the early forms were orange and yellow? Pomi d’oro becomes pomodoro
and then pomme d’amour on its arrival into France. Sex is a sure seller
even back then.
Tomato seeds have even been to space and back in a seed promotion that
rivals Don Burke’s efforts. The seeds were sent up on the Columbia
spacecraft to see if zero gravity had any effect on germination. It didn’t.
But feeding tomato seed to tortoises has added to the theory that
Galapagos Island’s early forms of Wolf Peach were distributed by the
slow digestive qualities of the tortoise.
The crossover to Europe has been said to have come from Goa with the
Portuguese who incidentally are said to have introduced chillies, olive oil
and olives to the East. Fair swap I reckon. A good example of this
exchange is found in the kasoundi relish where 3 worlds meet with
eggplant, chilli and olives.
Until chillies were brought back from the Americas it was Pepper that
provided the spice that ‘hurts so good.’ Most of us like it hot, and of all
the new nightshades the chilli received the most enthusiastic welcome,
especially in Asia.
Columbus went out with pepper on his shopping list and came back with
the chilli that made it possible to provide a hot spice with a great variety
of flavour.
Pepper was hard and expensive to grow, but chillies requiring less
exacting climatic conditions brought the world a cheaper thrill.
The combination of chocolate and chilli goes back to the very ancient
times and finds its peak in the Moles of Mexico.
Like the macadamia nut they are mainly grown overseas. We do not have
a local industry that utilises their properties that include pharmaceuticals
used in the treatment of menopausal disorders and infertility.
The pomme d’ amour may yet become true blue as the kangaroo apple
also contains alkaloids that are used to treat impotence.
But what does this historical trivia mean in the context of modern
Australian cooking?
Coriander and parmesan cheese type combinations are giving way to fine
simple dishes. But while we have access to some quite good ingredients, I
believe we have to face some hard facts.
Most of the produce in our mainstream markets is of a very mediocre
standard if judged by its taste. While Australian produce may not be
radioactive as in some parts of Europe, the flavours just do not come up
to scratch. Unless you are plugged into the top of the food sourcing chain
you may never know what a tomato tastes like.
Figs, melons peaches indeed almost any fruit are accepted under- ripe and
tasteless. We would never accept a warm beer in a pub but why do we put
up with flavourless food? All of our first quality produce is exported.
Ripe food should not be a luxury item but try to get a banana that tastes
like a banana, a simple cheese that has been matured properly. These
foods are only for the wealthy, the home producer or the gardener.
In Europe we find a different dilemma. The markets are full of some great
flavours, ripe cheeses and well grown and graded vegetables but inside
the restaurant, that is often, right behind the market, time has stood still.
The same old dishes without regard to season are monotonously offered.
In Europe home cooking still rules.
Surreal jelly fluffs and prawn brain juice coming out of dada
restaurant/laboratories are sexy enough for young cooks to include the
foam gas bottle and pipette into the kitchen kit, but where are the role
models for the next generation of growers without whom cooks are
stranded?
Self righteous Sermon? maybe so, but if we can encourage young people
to question the origins and pathways that give us flavour, this exciting
free movement that is Australian cuisine can develop; if not, the ideas and
cooks will go to where the flavour grows.
Once you have tasted home grown and in season, there is no turning
back.
End
George Biron
and all the gardeners who came good at the last moment.
Bibliography
Part 2
Demonstration and Tastings.
POTATOES
Where wheat starch meets potato starch and both are improved. But when
the ratio of flour to potato is reversed and no kneading is done we get
feather light Gnocchi
The use of potato in bread is very common in Eastern Europe but this
recipe comes from Puglia on the heel of the boot in southern Italy. We
used to specialise in very crusty breads at Sunnybrae but often made this
loaf as a contrast for its soft and chewy texture. The taste of the potato is
quite hearty well suited to mopping up those tasty juices and the added
bonus is that it keeps well for many days.
Makes 2 loaves
Steam or boil the potatoes and pass them through a moulli or a sieve cool.
Gently incorporate the flour, yeast, salt and ¾ of the water
Knead gently; it will be sticky but not too wet. Add some more the water
if it is too dry.
The potatoes will have different moisture contents so the exact amount is
a matter of practice. If the dough is too wet the bread will be very airy
and if too dry it will be a bit dense--- both are acceptable.
Let the dough rise in a warm spot covered with a cloth.
Heat the oven to 220C
When the dough has doubled in size, knock it back and make into a round
flat disk about 2 inches deep. Let it rise again in a warm spot uncovered.
When it’s about 3 inches high use your finger to indent holes all over the
top. This will allow the bread to rise evenly giving you a good focaccia
shape.
Brush liberally with olive oil you can let the wholes fill up if you like lots
of oil.
Sprinkle the top with sea salt and bake for about 45 mins
Cool on a wire rack.
Notes.
..
4 lines
.
LEMON GNOCCHI
Serves 6
500g of cooked “riced” potato. I.e. passed through a food mill or sieve.
This is essential to keep the mixture light.
250g of baker’s flour
100g grated Italian Parmesan
10g butter or olive oil 3 tablespoons of single cream [optional].
10g salt
1 egg yolk
Grated ring of 3 lemons
Lightly mix the potato, flour and 2/3 of the grated lemon rind with the
tips of your fingers. Don’t knead at all.
Roll out into a tubular shape about 3cm round. The mixture will make 6
strips about 250cm long
Cut into 3cm pieces. Lightly roll each into a ball and roll off the end of a
fork to mark the surface. This will help any sauce to adhere.
Warm the butter and cream in the pan that you will use to coat the
gnocchi
Poach the little gnocchi a large pot of salty water. They are ready 30
seconds or so after they come to the top. Don’t worry they will rise if you
have not overworked the mixture.
Add to the butter and garnish with the Parmesan, parsley and the rest of
the lemon rind.
Notes
4 lines
.
.
TOMATOES
Tasting Varieties
6 lines
.
.
.
Essence of White Tomato Soup with Basil
Notes
.
4 lines
Tomatillos
Tasting Fresh Tomatillos
2 lines
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Salsa Verde
Quite different from Italian version this classic hot sauce brings out the
wonderful flavour of the tomatillo.
Tomatillos, Garlic, Serrano chillies, coriander, onions, lime juice.
Method
2 Lines
Cape Gooseberries
A delicious condiment where Vanilla enters the savoury spectrum.
Method
4 lines
.
.
.
EGGPLANTS
SMOKED EGGPLANT
Eggplant is a very important vegetable in Japanese cooking.
This is a technique used for many of the delicious Middle Eastern dips
like Babaganoushe, but this case we use it with white miso or yellow
miso to prepare a very simple starter, you can also use it as part of a
vegetable antipasto.
Serves 6 as a starter
3 medium sized eggplants plus 2 to charr
150ml olive oil plus a touch of sesame oil
50g white or yellow miso paste
Poppy seeds
Charr the 2 eggplants according to the demonstration
Cut the eggplants into segments and fry until golden brown.
Drain on kitchen paper
Mix the miso with the smoky eggplant pulp and spread onto the
fried eggplant slices. Garnish with the poppy seeds.
TASTING KASOUNDI
4 lines.
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.
CHILLIES
4 lines
Really Deadly
10 lines
End