The Travels of Peter Mundy in Europe and Asia 1608 - 1667 Volume 1 - Travels in Europe 1608 - 1628
The Travels of Peter Mundy in Europe and Asia 1608 - 1667 Volume 1 - Travels in Europe 1608 - 1628
The Travels of Peter Mundy in Europe and Asia 1608 - 1667 Volume 1 - Travels in Europe 1608 - 1628
WELLESLEY COLLEGE
WORKS ISSUED BY
THE TRAVELS
OF
IN
SECOND
SERIES.
No. XVII.
2010
witii
funding from
Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/travelsofpetermu01mund
THE TRAVELS
OF
IN
1667.
Vol.
I.
TRAVELS
EDITED BY
Lt.-Col.
sir
Bart., CLE.,
SOCIETY.
ur-
Ms-
24 O'U
/
COUNCIL
OF
THE HAKLUYT
SOCIETY.
Sir Clements Markham, K.C.B., F.R.S., President. The Right Hon. The Earl of Liverpool, Vice-President. The Right Hon. The Lord Amherst of Hackney, Vice-President. The Right Hon. The Lord Belhaven and Stenton.
Thomas
B.
Bowring.
Sir
D.C.L.,
John Scott Keltie, LL.D. Admiral Sir Albert Hastings Markham, K.C.B.
Admiral of the Fleet Sir Frederick William Richards, G.C.B. Admiral of the Fleet Sir Edward Hobart Seymour, G.C.B., O.M.
Lieut. -Col. Sir Richard Carnac Temple, Bart.,
CLE.
Secretary.
B.A.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Preface
Introduction
.
ix
Relation
13
40
Mundy
goes to France,
14.
13.
Portugal,
down
the
Mediterranean,
19.
His voyage
description
-18.
His
of Scanderoon,
Arrives at
Constantinople, 21.
"Computation" of miles
plement," 24
travelled, 24.
Author's "Sup-
40.
41
to
136
Belgrade, 41
72.
Description of the
The journey from Belgrade to 81. The journey to Spalato, 82 86. Sarajevo, In quarantine, 86 88. The voyage to Venice, 88 90. Description of Venice, 91 98. The journey from
78.
78
Venice
Turin,
to
Turin, 98
11 1.
Lyons,
iii 119.
109
109.
Pindar's
reception
at
The journey
On
over Mt.
124.
Descrip-
133.
130.
journey to Islington,
miles, 136.
136.
"Computation" of
Relation
III
137
145
Mundy
goes to Seville, 137. Becomes servant to Richard Wyche, 137. Journeys to Spain, 138 142. Visits Enters the East India St Malo and Jersey, 143 144.
Company's Service,
144.
"Computation" of miles,
145.
Vlll
CONTENTS
PAGE
Appendices
A.
B.
C.
Voyage
into the
Levant
146
158
166
D.
agents at Constantinople
.
.
Mundy's time
.171
and
183
E.
Gainsford,
Extracts
from
Des Hayes'
Bargave's Voyages
G.
and Journeys
.199
217
Symonds
Bibliography
236
245
. .
. .
Index
Errata
Illustrations
Author's Title-Page
285
To
. .
face p.
55
58
Maps
Mundy's Route Mundy's Route Mundy's Route
in
Turkey
France
41
in Italy in
. . .
88
113
PREFACE.
ETER MUNDY
of his
many
travels in
as
up
to 1667, compiling
a huge
MS. volume
It is
full
of valuable matter
to
of
all
sorts,
and of exceptional
history.
interest
students of
geography and
siderable
surprise
that
his
Thomas
Fisher, "Searcher of
three
references
to
it
in
S.
sixty-five years.
In
J.
to
Penzance,
1845, there
is
Appendix and
a para-
In
p. 379,
there
is
in
W.
is
P. Courtney's
on
Mundy
in the Diet,
drawn
which
commended
his
Hakluyt Society.
My own
is,
Mundy and
at
work
Mr William
the
Foster of the
the
India Office,
who
five
inspected
MS.
is
Bodleian
with an
it
Library some
abstract of
its
me
contents.
scope
very wide, as
PREFACE
Europe, parts
of
England
and Wales,
his-
Western
years,
India,
torical notes of
no
little
value.
if
It
and
it
is
doubtful
The
MS.
to the
shown
was
he qualifies them
by the saving
clause, "
This by Relation."
The
length of the
MS. has
necessitated
its
division
into several
in order to
have thought
it
volume
his
to
Mundy's
works
I
first
from unpublished or
his
little-known
dealing
with
various
journeys.
For
this
reason,
The
Museum and
find
searched
to
contemporary
Mundy's
statements.
The
this
MS. forming
A. 315,
in
the text of
known
MS.
the Bodleian
Library.
in the British
Museum, which contains a duplicate of the The method of transcribing adopted that employed by myself in the case of the
Soc. Pub. 2nd series, vol. 12).
is
That
strictly
adhered
PREFACE
to,
xi
in full
and the
in
produced as footnotes.
Such
illustrations as
appear
in this
Mundy's own drawings, and on the three maps supplied are indicated the most important of his early European journeys.
part are exact reproductions of
As
this
summary
of Mundy's of
his
career.
detailed
account
however, given
1628,
by
have had
William
many
first
To
Mr
Foster
am
especially
calling
my
attention to the
in
MS. and
much generous
In
assistance
the work
of editing.
ceived
cases
assistance
from
many
other scholars.
most
in the
my
beg here
also to tender
my
hearty
Dr Rudolf Sanzin
my
acknowledgements to
two
years.
me on
this
volume
Without
it
is
no
lost the
my
appreciation
of
the
services
of
Miss Alice
J.
Mayes,
Levant
Company, I must
further record
my
Xll
PREFACE
and
University Press
Mr John
Clay
for
excellence of
have thought
to each
it
and Index
volume
number of
final
volume can be
R. C.
TEMPLE.
The Nash,
Worcester.
June^ 1907.
INTRODUCTION.
HOUGH
Peter
of the most
remarkable
travellers
the
West
of
England has ever produced, hardly anything is known of his parentage and family. The
following facts are all that we can learn from his own writings. He was born at Penryn in Cornwall his grandfather Peter Mundy was " Chanoon or Chantor" of Glasney College, Cornwall, about
;
father was, in
his father
1530; his parents resided at Penryn until about 1634; his his youth, apprenticed at Totnes both
;
and
his
"
pilchard
North Petherwin, Devonshire he had at one brother and he himself went to Rouen with his father in 1608, when he was presumably about twelve years old. These meagre particulars are practically all that have so far come to light from any quarter, though it is hoped that, before the issue of the last volume of the Travels, additional information will have been unson,
rector of
least
earthed.
According to Tonkin, the Cornish historian, Peter the son of Richard Mundy, Senior, Merchant, but apart from Mundy's own references to his " father," no other mention has been found of him. Richard Mundy and his brother were both alive in 1621, when Peter travelled to Seville with pilchards on their behalf. His mother was alive up to 161 1, after which date he makes no mention of his " parents." His father was alive in as is shown by reference to him in Mundy's Preface, 1635, but he was probably dead before 1645, the date of the
Mundy was
xiv
INTRODUCTION
of the St Gluvias burial registers at Penryn,
commencement
as there
is
no mention of him there up to 1650, when my search ceased. A Robert Mundy was buried at Penryn on the 1 6th October, 1646, and was apparently the "Robert Mundy of Penrin, Merchant," on the marriage of whose daughter, Joan, with George Kest, circ. 1625, a settlement was drawn up between the fathers of the bride and bridegroom^, but there is no clue as to whether he was the Peter Mundy's parentbrother or son of Richard Mundy. age must thus for the present rest on conjecture. The Penryn Mundys were most probably connected with the Mundys of Rialton Manor, in St Columb Minor, These Mundys were the twelve miles north of Truro. branch of the important family of Mundy of younger Marketon, Derbyshire, and Osbaston Hall, Leicestershire^
The founder of this family, John Mundy, flourished in the time of Edward I., and the eighth of the line became
Sir John Mundy in 1495. Sir John's son and namesake was Lord Mayor of London in 1522-3 and died in 1538. He was the father of a numerous family, two of whom, Thomas and John, his fourth and fifth sons, made their way to Cornwall and founded the Rialton family. Thomas was Prior of Bodmin in the reign of Henry VHI. and died in John settled at Rialton Manor, a former appanage 1554.
of
Bodmin
Priory.
the appointment of
Peter
Prior's influence
at
John Mundy's Richard and, it may be, the father of Richard Mundy of Penryn, but there is no real proof of this. The only other Richard among the Mundys of Rialton, up to the middle of the 17th century, was Richard, tenth child of John Mundy and great-grandson of the first
the traveller's grandfather.
third
Mundy,
son was
owner of Rialton. This Richard appears by his will to have died unmarried in 1647 and to have had no im1
Harl.
MS.
6243.
INTRODUCTION
XV
mediate connection with our author. Richard's sister, however, married Hannibal Vivian, whose brothers were
Peter Mundy's travelling companions on his voyage to
Of Mundys
Mundy,
of
Penryn, besides
Robert,
mentioned
come
to light are
Anthony
was buried in 1677. son and are both described as " of Penrin," the elder being a "merchant" and Member of Parliament for the
borough.
Unfortunately, the facts connected with these
his family.
and another Anthony Mundy who They were presumably father and
Mundy and
proved
A
I
search
among
the
Mundy
I
willsy
in the P. C.
fruitless.
Still,
by
trust that,
vol.
shall
information as to the
of
so
unique a
character as Peter
pro-
whole career as gathered from his MS., and to follow him in detail only during the years 1608 1628, with the story of which this volume is concerned.
Mundy s
1596 1608
{circ.)
Born
at Penryn.
1610
161 3 161
5
Goes to Rouen with his father. At Bayonne learning French. At San Lucar with Mr Parker. At Seville with Mr Weaver.
1617
Goes
to Constantinople with
James Wyche
in
the
Royall Merchant.
1620 1 62
1
62 1
Goes to
Seville
xvi
INTRODUCTION
Returns to England. to Valladolid about the "Copper Contract."
to St
1622
1625
1626
Goes Goes
Malo and
Jersey.
Returns to Penryn.
in the
East India
Makes
boate,"
in the Royall Mary. Goes to welcomed home" by his friends. trading voyage to London in a "Lobster and returns to Penryn via Basing House
1635
fleet to
India and
1638
1639 1640
1647
1650 1654
1655
Arrives in London, 15th December. Makes a "Petty Progresse" in England and Wales. Goes to Holland, Russia, Prussia and Poland on a trading voyage on his own account. Returns to Falmouth. At Penryn. Writes his first Appendix to his MS. Writes notes on his early voyages. In London. Makes his third voyage to India in the Alleppo
Returns to England.
Merchant.
1656
1658
1663 1663
Returns
to
England.
Arrives
in
London, 3rd
September.
In London.
events.
Returns to Penryn.
1667
At Penryn.
temporary events, including news from India, Concludes with the appearance of comets, etc. a copy of the Proclamation after the Treaty of Breda, read in Penryn the nth September, 1667.
Peter
Mundy
of Penryn in the south of Cornwall, a fitting nursery for a lad whose natural bent was travel and adventure, for
lies
it
at
miles north-west
INTRODUCTION
xvii
EngHsh achievements
as
is
against the
Spaniards
in
1588.
If,
it
is
Mundy's
filled
Cornish folk
of pilchards,
in
those days.
No
from
this
source, acquired
sailors.
" liv'd
awhile"with his uncle, the Reverend John Jackson, "Preacher and Pastor of that Parish^" In 1608, his father, Richard
Mundy, took him, while still a lad, to Rouen, the capital Normandy, on account of his education and perhaps in connection with the pilchard business. At Rouen, Peter Mundy remained one month and was then sent to Bayonne to " learne the French Tongue*." There he stayed two years, returning to Falmouth in 1610. In May, 1611, he commenced the work of a life that
of
proved to be an exceptionally busy one, and left his home to serve with Captain John Davis as a " cabin-boy^,"
a position which was then apparently quite different from
by the cabin-boys of to-day. The term seems to have signified a trade-apprentice rather than a menial servant. By the beginning of 161 3, he is found to be in the care of Mr George Weaver, who lived with a Spaniard at Sanlucar de Barrameda at the mouth of the Guadalquivir, and who may have been engaged in the flourishing pilchard" and tin trade of Cornwall with Spain.
that occupied
^ Mundy's first Appendix. France they utter their pickled Pilchardes." Norden, A Topographical Description of Cornwall., p. 23. * See p. 13. ^ See p. 13 f. ^ "The dryed ware (Pilchardes) theycarrye into Spayne." Norden, A Topographical Description of Cornwall, p. 23.
1
See
p. 137.
" In
M.
xviii
INTRODUCTION
Peter
Mundy
went, at the end of 1614, to Seville under the orders of Mr Charles Parker. In this service he visited, for the
purposes of trade, the ports at the mouth of the Guadiana. He had probably picked up some knowledge of Spanish from Senor Patinno at Sanlucar, and in the two years he
spent at Seville he
"
After an
absence of five years and seven months, he returned to London with Captain Davis. He was now a young man
of about twenty, well-equipped for that
travel
life
of incessant
which he subsequently
to us, as
led.
full
record of his
come
first
down
"
I.
refers
only to
some Voyages
recalled
to
memory
since
my
settinge forth-."
On
the
wrote Relation
December,
life
Mundy added
as
to
his earlier
Remarks
i6th
follows^:
''London^ the
is, if
Anno
1654.
My
is
intention
God
spare
mee
and
leisure, to
Copy
amisse according to
my
abilitie,
many
the rest
some
Roan, 1608.
My
my
first
The Citty lieth on the bancks of Seine, a River thatt runneth through the Citty of Paris, passeth by this, and att Newhaven^ runneth into
Normandy
with
Father.
^ 3
See
p. 14.
See
p. 24.
extracts quoted are taken from fol. 220 of Mundy's MS. and are entitled "The Appendix Somwhat concerning severall Citties, The length of the MS. is so great that these remarks Places, etts." were overlooked until it was ransacked for evidences of Mundy's life. Since they were discovered too late to print as the Author's Appendix to Relation I., I have thought it best to reproduce them here.
The
* I can find no record at this period of any other name but Havre de Grace for the port at the mouth of the Seine. Still, as the town was not a century old when Mundy visited it, having been founded by
I. in 15 16, it is just possible that, in his day, it was known to Englishmen as the New Haven. The Sussex port, now called Newhaven, was then the village of Meeching, and possessed no harbour.
Francis
INTRODUCTION
xix
effect, called
by us the Bore,
length over-
especially att Spring tide, for the River keeping his course
which ran Downeward is in an instanc forced backe againe with exceeding swiftnesse and fearful Noise heard A greatt way off^ This bore or tide head comes sodainely many foote high like great rouling feathering Waves, overturning smalle vessells, boates, etts. what it meetes in its way, making others fleete thatt are aground, and all this as I said on a sodaine appearing for a while like a tempestuous Sea thus only as it passeth by, and soe runneth farre up in to the Country^ There is att Roan a greatt bell (which I allso saw not) through forgetfulnesse, butt heard much therof by others. There is written about it this verse
1
:
JE SUIS
POIZ,
heard a Dutch
was nine fathom and one span of his about the brymme hee beeing a tall Man, it could not bee lesse then fifty-five foote in circumference, which is aboutt eighteen foote Diameter, and, as aforesaid, 60000 waightt* 600 quintalles-' or 30 tonne. There are allsoe many poore people, both men and
1 The bore on the Seine extends as high as Caudebec, rises from one to three feet, and is similar to the bore at the mouth of the Severn to v/hich Mundy compares it. 2 Here Mundy adds a short paragraph about " The Tide head in
Severne."
3 A mistake. This famous bell was called George d^Amboise. It was cast by order of George, Cardinal d'Amboise, the favourite minister of Louis XII., and was hung in the Tour de Beurre, the The bell was loftier of the two towers of Notre-Dame at Rouen.
lbs.
XX
weomen
;
INTRODUCTION
sometimes a
man and
Drawing small
Bayofi, 1610.
Bayon
it
of France, betweene
stuft
I
it
courage and resolution in assisting to expell the English from thence aboutt Anno
their
remembrance of
Gascony besides many years-. (Search the Chronicles^'.) Servant Maides goe in their haire, which hangueth displayed and Dispersed over their backes and Shoulders, having the Crowne of
1453,
wee holding
thatt place
and
all
their
heads shaven Just as friers. Att this place an Englishman 161 3. married a Spanish woman (who Dwelled next Dore to
San Lucar,
us)'*
finding
them
together,
who^
after
some
trouble,
was
lived
Here
Don Alonso PERES DE GAZMAN DUQUE DE MEDINA SIDONIA, who was generall in 88, and Died before my comming from Spaine, aboutt Anno
then
1615^
Sevill,
161 5.
Of
this Citty
said, it
ticularities
and a place of greatt I will only relate a word or two of some partherin. The Bridge over which they passe to
Ritche,
there are two small drawings of male
attire " described.
In the
MS.
and female
[z>. 1453]
2
*
Here the author has a marginal note, "31th year Henry 6 wee held it 300 years." The dates are correct. This is probably a memorandum intended by Mundy for himself. i.e., Mundy and Mr George Weaver. See ante, p. xvii.
;
the Englishman. Alonso Perez de Guzman, Due de Medina Sidonia, who commanded the Spanish Armada in 1588, retired to San Lucar circ. 1595 and died there in 161 5. ' Mundy left Spain and returned to England at the end of 1616.
^
i.e.,
**
INTRODUCTION
xxi
att
TRIANA
is
built
both
La GIRALDA DE SEVILLA or tower of Sevill. LA IGLESIA MAYOR or greatt Churche. The Steeple
or tower
artificially
is
soe
thatt
all
the
may
It
bee seene
from withoutt
great
bell
side, in
number aboutt
ever
I
twenty-six.
The
bee
the best
thatt
heard I
may
ascended on horsebacke
On
the top of
all is
The
I
said
Image
is
called
its
LA GIRALDA,
namel
From
the
tower
hills
of
accompted 40 leagues off; they are allwaies covered with snow. The Churche beelonging to the said tower is very large, faire and ritche, it having 500,000 Ducattes of yearly rent, admirably graced with rare and costly Images, pictures, etts. ornamentes within. And I conceave with the best musicke both for Instrumentts and voices thatt is in all Spaine.
GRANADA,
EL ALCAC^AR,
is
The
an Elaborate Structure*.
LA VEGA DE SEVILLA^
proffitt
whole
of
It
lyeth
in
the best
part
suburb of Triana, existed until the middle of the 19th In 1845-52 an iron bridge was erected a little below the site
The Santa Maria, set up in 1588. The Giraldillo, or vane, is a bronze female
It
Faith, cast by Bartolome Morel, in 1568. and holds the banner of Constantine.
*
The
palace of the Moorish Kings and a Spanish royal residence by the Christians in 1248.
The
extremely
fertile.
xxii
INTRODUCTION
which province
is
ANDALUZIA,
fertill
I
in all Spaine.
had forgotten
is
1
8 leagues in compasse,
it,
having
many
(the
gardeins, etts. in
AS and outt among itt. I was att Las dos two sisters), a towne soe called^, filling oile in pipes at the oile Mills, lying aboutt two leagues off. A Strange Ceremony. I was told thatt when the King of Spaine cometh thatt way and is to enter the Citty, they make a bridge for him thatt hee may com over the walls and not through any of the gates for, through which
;
HERMAN
King
Merchandize,
etts.,
which
losse
bee imported or exported through the same, shall bee Custom free, which would bee a greatt
shall either
soe the
King
is
pleased
to
com over
AYAMONTE.
the Spanish side
little
GUADIANA,
mapps.
saw
it
came from
Sevill
to
this
place*,
where I remained butt a little while. From hence I went over to Castro Marin Speto T A VI LA in the Algarves^ aperteyning to the Kingdome of Portugall.
^ Xaral or Jardl, a place planted with the cistus or labdanum shrub (see Stevens' and Neuman and ]3aretti's Spanish dicfwnaries). Hence, probably, any plantation.
Seville.
miles from its source (at Lugarlost in a bed of reeds and rushes.
^ Tavila or Tavira, in Algarve. Mr Donald Ferguson suggests that Speto' may be Mundy's mistake for perto, near. As it stands, the
passage
is
unintelligible.
INTRODUCTION
xxiii
From
oile,
these
places
are
transported great
store of figs,
etts."
return to
as,
Whether Mundy went to his home in Cornwall on his England after his absence in Spain is doubtful,
within a fortnight, he was off again on his travels. This time to Constantinople, whence we know that he returned to Cornwall in 162 1. His new master was Mr
James Wyche, one of the numerous sons of Richard Wyche, a London merchants James Wyche went to
Constantinople in the interests of his father, a
of the Levant
member
engaged as a mercantile clerk, an office for vious experience would render him well fitted. He sailed, in 1617, on the Royall Alerchant, under the command of Captain Joshua Downingl The Royall Merchant carried several passengers, all interested in the Levant trade. Mr James Garraway (or Garway), whose kinsman Thomas founded the famous coffee-house, and Mr Bartholomew Abbot, whose relative Sir Morris Abbot owned the ship, were on board. There were besides, two Cornishmen, Roger and Charles Vivian, sons of Hannibal Vivian " of Trelewarrein." The Vivians were connected by marriage with the Mundys of St Colomb Minor* and were probably no strangers to Peter Mundy*. To a man of Mundy's power of observation, the voyage through the Mediterranean was " full of various Novelties and delights'," and he tells us of several matters
characteristic of sea travel in his day, including a story
of a
" terrible
broyle^" off
the
See Appendix B.
gee Appendix C.
See cmte^
p. xv.
Charles Vivian, at the time of his voyage to Constantinople, was apprenticed to Sir Morris Abbot, " Cittizen and Draper of London." He obtained ''his freedome" in July, 1622, and was admitted a member of the Levant Company, instate Papers, Foreign Archives, Roger Vivian was Sir Thomas Abdy's companion vol. 148, p. 74 b.) He died in 1653. in his travels in France in 1633.
*
'"
See
p. 16.
xxiv
darkness.
INTRODUCTION
remarks on the hospitality that English merchants settled abroad always extended to their fellowcountrymen at that time. Of the various observations he records may be noted those on the cleanliness and decorative beauty of Leghorn, where he gained his first experience of quarantine. Off
also
He
in active eruption
also
first
At Zante he
" cur-
He
gives an unpleasing
was then the port of Aleppo, and there he tasted roast porcupine and wild boar and found them " Savourie meate^" He made the usual guess of his day at the site of Troy on passing that neighbourhood, and finally he reached " the famous Port and Imperiall Cittie of Constantinople^" where he at once became engrossed in business. During the time that he spent in the Turkish capital Unhe must have heard and seen much of interest. fortunately he kept no record of this period of his life, and his account, which was written circ. 1634, and revised in 1650 and 1654, consists only of "passages recollected by Memory"*." Among these " passages" are the revolutions that occurred during his stay and the turmoil occasioned by them. He arrived a short time before the death of Ahmad I. and witnessed the accession of the hapless Mustafa, who was taken from a prison to a throne. Three months later, in February, 16 18, he heard of the revolt in favour of Osman and of the imprisonment of Mustafa His summary of these events, " Three for the second time. grand Signiors in three monethes'," is brief and to the point. Mundy also remarks on three events which occurred during his sojourn in Constantinople and terrified him,
with
its "
It
namely, a slight earthquake, an extensive fire causing heavy loss of life, and a visitation of the plague when the
^
See See
p. 19.
p. 3.
See See
p. 20.
p. 21,
;/.
See
p. 21.
5.
INTRODUCTION
XXV
The
with the ejaculation, " From which evills and good Lord deliver us, Amen\" Mundy gives practically no description of the life of his day in Constantinople, but it does not seem to have pressed heavily on the Europeans, for he tells us that " the English Merchants pass very Commodiouseley with pleasure, love and Amitye among themselves^." This last remark seems to show that James Wyche and his immediate friends did not personally suffer from the many obstacles to English trade, of which the ambassador, afterwards the well-known Sir Paul Pindar, was sending home so many and bitter complaints while Mundy was living
Relation
all others,
in Constantinople.
Among recreations, Mundy mentions that he joined a party of his countrymen in an excursion to Pompey's Pillar, on the eastern shore of the Black Sea. Mundy is curiously careful to give, at the end of each
of the miles he travelled during and he reckons the total distance traversed from the time he set out for Rouen till his arrival at Constantinople, including his visit to Pompey's Pillar, as He was obviously proud of these tables of dis175394tances and with reason, considering that his only means of transit were sailing vessels, horses or wheeled vehicles drawn by animals. In i6i8, James Wyche succumbed to small-pox, which was epidemic in that year at Constantinople. After his master's death, Mundy " remained with Mr. Lawrence Greene," Junior, a merchant, who, we may reasonably infer from this fact, had been in some way connected with James Wyche. This Lawrence Greene subsequently became the Levant Company's Consul at Smyrna, and was one of the many merchants then residing at Pera, a suburb of ConRelation,
his journeys,
"
computations
"
stantinople.
From
^
this
new
f.
association,
^
Mundy
doubtless
See
p.
39
See
p. 22.
XXVI
INTRODUCTION
affairs.
He
"re-
for nearly
two
years, but
interests
of the
Wyche
it
is
Mundy's account of Constantinople is very meagre. With his usual strict adherence to truth, he owns that the memory of his early years is somewhat indistinct, and
he therefore contents himself with referring his readers to "the relation of others^" and only comments on those
things of which
Between he took " particuler notice." i6io and the time when Mundy revised his MS. in 1650,
travellers
many
works
had
visited Constantinople
in
and had
re-
print.
With some
of these
memory
as to the scenes in
which
he had passed his early manhood. Of the objects which had remained imprinted on his
As
it
is
Harbour,
the
draws
great
buildings
the
of Constantinople.
The
saving of
labour in
lading and
boyhood
commodities with European ports. Mundy's other remarks on the chief points of interest in the city where he spent nearly four years are, as he says himself, but " course and Coursary^." On the arrival of Sir John Eyre to succeed Paul Pindar as the Levant Company's representative at Conof trade in English
stantinople,
Mundy
obtained
permission
to
return
to
England
the
in the train of
He was
by
Grand
bade
his official
p. 30.
See
p.
37
f.
See
p. 25.
INTRODUCTION
In his Relation
II.
XXVll
Mundy
gives
an account of his
In this
he chronicles, in the form of a diary, the events of each day and the various stages of the route from the 6th
May
September, i620\
Europe instead of
It is
is
not known.
possible
to
cities
with a view to creating additional mercantile centres, as he visited all the important places with which the Company
had established
his position.
relations.
as befitted
house at Pera, accompanied by his nephew, several members of the Levant Company, an interpreter and seventeen servants of various nationalities. The ambassador and the merchants rode, and twelve waggons carried the baggage and the servants. A guard
left his
He
of
told
off
first
by the Grand
stages of the
Signior as
journey.
during the
themselves
and
their
Lumbermentl"
persons, and
it
The cavalcade
thus consisted of
was further augmented at the outset by the resident merchants of Galata, twelve in
fifty-six
his
house at Pera to
1 He probably kept a rough record of events and put it into shape on the return voyage from India in 1634, when he wrote the account of his early travels comprised in Relation I.
See
p. 44.
Since the text of Relation II. was printed, information has come (See note 2 on to hght regarding Messrs Hunt, Guilliams and Lowe. In 1623, Henry Hunt, "late p. 44, and notes 2 and 3 on p. 45.) apprentice of Mr Roger Harvey, having been employed in the Company's privileges for three years beyond the seas and upwards," was admitted to the freedom of the Levant Company. In February, 1624, Abell Guilliams, " Apprentice to John Williams haveing served three yeares and upwards in the priveledges and payed the usual fyne of xxj." was admitted to the freedom of the Company. On the 6th July, 1626,
3
XXVlll
INTRODUCTION
the
" Fresh Waters," two miles distant. Here, five of the merchants took their leave, the other seven remaining two days with the party and turning back to Pera on the
morning of the 8th May. The first halt was on the 6th May, 1620, at Kuchuk Chekmeje, the Little Bridge, seven miles from the walls of Constantinople, where Mundy spent the night in a kJidn or posting-inn, a place which must have struck him as
being widely different from an English hostelry.
this point, as far as Belgrade, the route followed
From
was
for
now used by
g-iven below.
Constantinople
to
Belgrade.
Stations of the Orient
Mundy's halting-places
in
1620.
Express
in
1907.
Constantinople.
Constantinople.
Kijchuk Chekmeje.
Chorlu\
Karistran.
Karistran\
Chorlu.
Lule-Burgas.
Baba-eski.
Lule-Burgas.
Baba-eski.
Khafsa.
Adrianople.
Adrianople.
Mustafa Pasha.
Hermanli.
Uzunjova.
Papasli.
Francis Lowe, " son of Sir Thomas Lowe deceased," demanded his freedom and was admitted by patrimony on paying the usual fine and taking the oath. State Papers, Foreign Archives, Levant Conipaiiy,
pp. 79 b, 109
^
a,
148
a.
Mundy
in
the
wrong
order.
INTRODUCTION
Philippopolis.
Philippopolis.
XXIX
Tatar Bazarjik.
Tatar Bazarjik,
Kapujik.
Novi Khan.
Kapuli.
Ikhtiman.
Sophia.
Zaribrod.
Pirot (Sharkoi).
Ikhtiman.
Sophia.
Zaribrod.
Pirot.
Qurut chesme.
Bela Palanka.
Nisch.
Bela Palanka.
Nisch.
Paratjin.
Yagodin.
Batotschina.
Palanka.
Kolar.
Palanka.
Grotzka.
Belgrade.
Belgrade.
journey
25
Time occupied by
the Orient
days.
24 hours.
The route, shown above and on the map facing p. 41, was the old post road, which was still the chief means of communication from Constantinople to Belgrade up to the middle of the nineteenth century. A German Route map of 1819^ marks all the halting-places given in Mundy's
list
exception of three small villages. The mileage between each place was estimated by Mundy
with
the
"
according to his
whole dayes and halfe dayes Journeys^" and is by no means exact, though the distances correspond roughly with those on the German map. The
1 Nouvelle Carte des Pastes de rAlleinagiie on des pays situes aic centre de PEtcrope divisee dans ses Etats dapres le Congres de Vienne et les derniers Traites de Paris, &c., &c. Par A. P. H. Nordniann, Vienne, 1821.
See
p. 136.
XXX
present
editor,
in
INTRODUCTION
who
travelled
from
Constantinople
to
Belgrade
December of
1906,
was able
Biyuk Chekmeje, the Great both of these towns Mundy remarked the bridges spanning the creeks, erected during the reign of
In
At Biyuk Chekmeje
the party
first set
Pindar having
Still
skirting the coast for fifteen miles farther, the next halt
at Silivri, the ancient Selymbria,
abandoning the
coast, passes
Mundy
Champion Countrie without either Tree or bush exceptinge At Chorlu, on the 9th May, two att Townes or Villages^" members of the train and an Armenian servant, who had left at Kuchuk Chekmeje, rejoined the party. The following day a distance of thirty miles, among open plateaus, was traversed as far as Lule-Burgas, where a welcome supply Between Baba-eski, some of fresh water was found.
sixteen
miles
is
Here the
to
was profered us, beinge a great howse Gran Signiors trayne and horses, when he
cometh thither-." Mundy has a short description of the Grand Signior's Seraglio at Adrianople, the first building of importance that he had seen since he left the Turkish At Adrianople " Stamo the Greeke " quitted the capital.
^
See
p.
60
'^
See
p. 49.
INTRODUCTION
XXXI
Englishmen in order to enter the service of Caspar VoiVode of Moldavia, at one time Pindar's dragoman.
Gratiani,
The
travellers
now proceeded towards Philippopolis, a The road lies between the Rhodope and Balkan mountains, and offers a
flat
at the
remarks that "from hither (Philippopolis), although the like plaine Adrianople ground, yett over growne with woods and Bushes of Oake for the most part\" A halt was made at Mustafa Pasha, of which place
of the journey.
commencement
Mundy
Mundy
Maritza.
tells
story
relating
to
the
bridge
over the
proceeded to Hermanli, thirty-six miles from Adrianople, where they pitched near a large khan. Like the emissary of Louis XIII.,
the
Thence
party
same ground
in a
in the
Turkish inn
whenever practicable.
Keeping near the left bank of the Maritza, the party reached Uzunjova in the valley of the Usundji. Thence they made their way to Kialik, "a poore Towne of Christians " where there were only " poore howsesV' in one of which Pindar was compelled to lodge. Mundy makes no particular comments on his haltingplaces between Constantinople and Kialik, the first
" Christian village."
He
"
all
the
"
Townes
"
were
somewhat
hansome with
their
He
is,
how-
and
"
stone bridges,"
nth May I
Between Kialik and
Papasli, " another poore
Towne
of
moun-
Maritza gradually to the south. Pindar only stayed to dine at Papasli and proceeded on the same day, the 17th May, fifteen miles farther, to Philippopolis or
1
See
p. 60.
See
p. 54.
See
p. 49.
XXXll
INTRODUCTION
Finding that the plague was raging in the city, the Filibe. ambassador caused his followers to cross the long wooden bridge over the Maritza and to encamp on the opposite side
of the river, at the
same time
any member of
In
camp were
the gruesome
alive
week
to say
" in
previously.
Of
Philippopolis,
as to
its
Mundy
has not
its
much
beyond a remark
founder and
position
hills
on either
side,
hard by a
From
woods and
perilous
Having dined
Novi Khan,
the night.
"
the 19th May they came to the Pass of Derbend. By Pindar's orders, each of his Kaprulov followers went through on foot, fully armed, in order to
On
be ready to
"
resist
Mundy,
God bee
praised, there
more
perils
to encounter.
At one
on a drumme, sett there of purpose to advise travellers whether there bee theeves or noe, hee abideinge in the most daungerous place of alP." At last the " woodie mountaines " were left behind
and a valley of "inhabited places" was perceived. Ikhtiman, " where are ten other Townes in sight'*," was the halting-place on the night of the 19th May. Between Ikhtiman and Sophia was another lurking place of robbers, and here again a drummer was posted to give the
alarm to
travellers.
On
of the enclosed
1
plateau
2
lies
greatly
p.
See
p. 55.
See
p. 60.
See
p. 61.
See
61
f.
INTRODUCTION
impressed Mundy, as he came upon
of wandering
it
xxxiii
after several
days
among
But the
be misled by
is
is
in
Mundy calls the table-land a "plaine" and notes "about twenty Townes and villages in the said plaine all in sight togeather^" The cavalcade halted for a whole day at During this time, Pindar paid a ceremonial Sophia.
visit to
who was on
his
way
to
On the 22nd May, two miles beyond Sophia, the party was augmented by two soldiers, sent by the Viceroy as a special guard for Pindar, and by a chawiish (important official) with an escort of Janissaries in charge of treasure Mundy does not mention when the first guard for Buda. of Janissaries, who escorted the ambassador from Constantinople, left the party, but
it is
halt
was made
Thence, to
experience, "entringe
had an unpleasant wee were overtaken with rayne, where wee had not only a dangerous passage by reason of Theeves, but very troublesome and wearisome by reason of the rocky stony way and durtie weather-." When at last Zaribrod was reached, "Lodginge" was found to be "very scarse," and Pindar himself had to put up with cottage accommodation. The next day matters were little better, and the horses so weary " by reason of the dirtie way " that a halt was made at midday at Pirot, where the jaded animals rested until the next morning. The Janissaries and the chazviisJi, however, pushed on, " their busines requiring more hastl" Their place as protectors was taken by fourteen cavalry soldiers {sipdhi)
Zaribrod,
the
travellers
among Rockie
Hills,
Grand Signior. The ambassador had also full licence to impound provisions in the various stopping places on his
1
See
p. 63.
See
p. 66.
M.
xxxiv
INTRODUCTION
way
to Belgrade.
Of
himself, as he
would be
thereby^"
Passing along the valley of the Morava, the travellers
Christian village and made their way where they found a stockade, in which Turkish soldiers were intrenched to repel any incursion An additional body-guard of of marauding Christians^ thirty-one soldiers from this fortification accompanied Pindar half way through the rugged steeps and defiles
to Bela Palanka,
When
and a
The remainder
soe
stonie
of the road
to Nisch
mountainous, yett
and
dirtied"
"
some ruined
walls'.
May, a few miles on the road towards Belgrade, Pindar's party overtook the chawush and JanisTravelling was now saries who had left them at Pirot^
the 26th
easier, " the
{i.e.,
On
way beinge
full
faire
and
deserted) and
for
of woods^"
At Rashan
their lodging
once in a khan. The next day the travellers passed through the small village of Paratjin and came to the banks of the Morava,
was
where the lack of a bridge caused a loss of " four howres at least in passinge our selves and necessaries I" The haltingplace that night was Yagodin, where there was another of the palangJias or fortified stockades. Winding next day along the mountain slopes, the party halted at Batotschina for dinner, probably about midday, reaching later on Hassan Pasha's Palanka, " the fairest wee savve hetherto." Again
they spent the night in a large CaneV On the 29th May, the cavalcade passed through Kolar,
'
See See
p. 67. p. 66.
See See
p. 68.
p. 'JO.
^ 6
See See
p. 69.
p. 71.
INTRODUCTION
amid the dense
situated on this
forests bordering the
"
XXXV
Danube.
Grotzka,
Both at Kolar and at Grotzka, noi&d palanghas, and at the latter place "two great stone Canes " also, Pindar, however, avoided the khans
the next halting-place.
Mundy
"
and
his
Towne^" where,
as at Philippopolis,
camp was
for robbery.
30th
May, the
day
after
the
departure from
Heere
my
Lord hired
As
matter of
Mundy
Pindar spent eight days in Belgrade, and had an ample opportunity of exercising his powers
fact,
floating milles"
He was greatly struck by the " thirty-five on the river near the city, "makeinge as faire a shewe afarr of[f] as they were handsome within-." It is interesting to note that now, nearly three hundred years after this account was written, there are still waterof observation.
mills
the same kind at Belgrade. The abundance, and cheapness of the fish to be obtained from the Danube also attracted Mundy's attention. In the city itself he remarked that the buildings, "Churches, Besistenes, bathes and Canes excepted," were " generally made of
of
variety,
Boards,"
but
that
"
make a faire shewe, beinge very handsomely contrived -V The castle and fortifications are described at some length,
with special reference to the
over
all
Clocke which is heard Other objects in Belgrade which appealed to Mundy were the " Ferrie boats of one peece," the " greate boates for carrieing too and froe Corne, wood, salt etts.," the "Artillery howse^" with its trophies from the siege of Kaniza, and the rivers Danube and Save with their unequal currents. He was also interested in the various
the
Cittie''."
"
See See
p. 71. p. 74.
^ 5
See
p. 72.
See
p.
73
f.
See
p. 75.
xxxvi
INTRODUCTION
At Belgrade Pindar discharged the baggage waggons in view of the "mountainous waie^" to be traversed before He paid a state visit to the kdzl during reaching Spalato.
his stay,
difficulty
of procuring horses
none in Towne, only those newely arrived from other partsV At Belgrade the travellers lost the services of Thaddeus Murad, the Armenian engaged " to dresse victualls^" This man, who was the servant of Mr Wilson, was permitted to return to Constantinople, taking with him a Bulgarian woman whom he had secured as a bride for his
brother.
On the 7th June, Pindar and his party left Belgrade and entered on a more toilsome stage of their journey. The heat was intense for the first three days, and the cavalcade only covered thirty miles. A compulsory halt was made at noon, and at night the camp was pitched " in the feilds." On the 9th June, Valjevo was reached. Pindar's tent was set up beside the Kolubara river and the party
refreshed themselves with "Cherries at a farthinge a pound."
At
by a guard of
being
twenty
men
sent
by the kdzl
somewhat dangerous
for Theeves^."
On
entering Valjevo,
Mundy
who had
been staked as a warning to their fellows. On the lOth June, travelling was more pleasant both as " regards way and weather, the day " not very hott of it selfe and "our waie beinge through shadie woods... ascendinge
and descendinge pleasant mountains'." The travellers now entered the mountain system, of Bosnia and Herzegovina. They seem to have followed the valley of the Jablanitza, crossed the Medvednjik Planina or mountain pasture and descended into the valley of the Ljubowija. Mundy was
"
the truly Alpine scenery, the mountains which exceeded all others that ever I sawe for height and beautie, not steeple, but gentlie riseinge by
1
See
p. 72.
See
p. 75.
gee
p. 76.
See
p. 78.
See
p.
78
f.
INTRODUCTION
degrees, the
XXXVli
Topps being as good ground as the bottome and as firtill^" He marvelled that "this pleasant peece of Countrey " should be allowed to lie " in a manner waste, and growen with weeds and woods of exceeding high trees\" The descent to the valley of the Ljubowija was steep and the " quantitie of good ripe Strawburryes^" found near the river must have been welcome. On the iith June, the party was ferried over the river
Drina, and, six miles farther, they halted, apparently near the Jadar river, where they
day-."
"
Here Mundy noted the mines of Srebreniza, and a khan which the camp was pitched.
in
the neighbourhood, by
On
the
Planina was
accomplished.
It
was found
to be "
Romanja much
At
many
scatteringe dwellings,
made
any thinge
On
way reasonable
and
from thence...
very mountainous
rocky^,"
Sarajevo
was reached.
Since the 7th June the party had only traversed 93^ miles, or about thirteen miles per day, as against the average of
twenty-one miles per day between Constantinople and Belgrade. The bad roads, mountainous country and great
heat
all
Two
The
were spent
in
Sarajevo
in
order to
V2S. 6d.,
and thence
to Spalato about
as,
owing
to the
piratical
who were
all
believed to have
in
Europeans were
80 f.
*
See
p. 79.
See
p. 80.
See
p.
See
p. 81.
XXXVlll
ill-odour in the city,
INTRODUCTION
and the people "very bigg and
to avoid altercations,
"
tall...
taken a howse,"
in order
forbadd
Mundy seems
Hills,"
to
He
tells
us that
it
lyeth
among
the
in generall
have theire
He
the large
number
water turneth-."
On the 1 6th June, the party set out for the last and most difficult part of their journey, namely over the mountains to Spalato. As far as Lisicici they took the route now followed by the Sarajevo-Mostar railway. Their Thence, to the village of Ivan on first stage was Pazaric^. the ridge of the Ivan Planina, the way was " mountainous and rocky 2." On the 17th June, they came to Konjica, "a goode Towne" on the Narenta, "a prettie river... cleire, greenish and verye swifts" Following the river for seven miles, they reached Lisicici, where they dined. From this point the travellers went by local roads, and it is difficult to follow them, especially as Mundy's account of this part of the journey is somewhat confused. It is
clear that, after leaving Lisicici, the party followed the
Narenta as far as its junction with the Rama. Then they left the Narenta and kept beside the Rama for some few miles when they crossed it "by a bridged" After this, the The party ascended " an exroute is very indistinct. ceedinge high Mountaine and steepy^" and found themselves on an elevated plateau with another mountain facing
them,
the
"
much more
steepy^^."
On
mountaine which had little descent to bee perceived*." This proved to be the last of the fearsome heights to
1
See
p. 81.
See
p. 82.
See
p. 83.
See
p. 84.
INTRODUCTION
XXXIX
Here
their
in
for,
hills,"
with
in a
encamped
On
named by Mundy, and may be either From either the Semaroromo Blato or the Rusko Blato. of these the way is "stony and rockey" as far as the river
Lake^ " which
not
Cettina.
When
were prac-
They
on the 20th June, 1620. Their diningplace was beneath the famous castle of Clyssa, " built on a high cragked Rock-," whence, a mile farther, the party Once over the boundary, a entered Venetian territory.
the river
"
by boate
startling
change was apparent. " Wee entred into Christendome, then seeminge to bee in a new World, such was the alteration wee found, not only in the Inhabitants, but also Mundy grows quite enthusiastic in his in the Soylel" description of the three miles of country between the Turkish territory and the gates of Spalato. He remarks that even the stones were turned to a useful purpose and
served instead of hedges, and that, in the cornfields
"
they
being then reapinge, were rancks in the Furrowes of Olive The trees, Pomgranett Trees, Pines and figg trees ^"
"
watch Towers
"
erected
hills
as
places
of
refuge
by the
At Spalato
quarantine,
special
1
but were
with
great
consideration,
his
rooms being
p. 84.
2
allotted to Pindar
3
and
f.
company
See
p. 87.
See
See
p. 85.
See
p.
85
xl
INTRODUCTION
and "beddinge, lynnen, Tables, Chaires and necessaries" being sent in to him, also " fresh Victualls soe that wee wanted nothing but liberties" As soon as he was established in the Lazaretto, Pindar received a visit from the
Venetian governor of Spalato, " th' one sittinge without the gate, and thother within, a good way a sunder^"
Two
days later the Governor paid another visit, when Pindar obtained the release of John Clarke, one of his
servants.
twenty, fifteen"
was greatly favoured"." While Mr Lane was making arrangements for transporting the party to Venice, Pindar, " with the Gentlemen^" dined at the Governor's house. Meanwhile, Mundy had a cursory glance at the town of Spalato, which he found " strongly built, furnished with many soldiers and many
brave, stout edifices, although auntientl"
On
barke of
who had
Henry
was then stationed. and the ships made good progress, " alwaies among small Islands, verie stoney and barren as the Mayne seemed to beeV On the ist July they passed through the narrow Canal d'Ossero, between Cherso and Sailing across the Gulf of Quarnero to the Punta Lussin.
assistance of the Venetian Republic,
favourable,
di
Promontore on the 2nd July, the vessels steered through the Canale di Fasana between the island of Brioni and "the Mayne," where Mundy noted the " prettie harbour^" of
Pola, then
an insignificant town.
2
Owing
^
to the presence of
"
See
p. 87.
See
p.
87
f.
See
p. 88.
See
p. 89.
INTRODUCTION
xH
a galleass off Pola, it was thought that "provision would bee scarse," and Pindar's party went on to Rovigno. Here the Captaine of the place invited his Lordshipp and Gentlemen home to his howse\"
*'
On
*'
the
wynde coming
sail,
and,
Venice entered the Queen of the the channel of S. Andrea del Lido,
having spent four days at sea. The short voyage was probably a welcome change after the toilsome journey
at Spalato.
At S. Andrea, the boat was stopped by the sanitary officer, who inspected the travellers' health certificate and gave them " leave to goe whether wee would-." The boat pro" on the Cannaregio, which ex-ambassador during his The house belonged to a Venetian noblestay in Venice. man and was rented at ;^20 per month, while the furniture, plate, etc., were hired of Jews at the rate of i^io per month. Mundy was much impressed with the interior decorations of this house, which was " as curious within as it was faire without^" Pindar remained a month in Venice, during which he paid and received ceremonial visits from the ambassadors of Spain and Savoy, and also had constant intercourse with While he was thus Sir Henry Peyton and his officers^ employed, his followers were free to explore the city. Of
ceeded to
"
all
Mundy
of the place and the work carried on within its precincts aroused his wonder and admiration*'. He was shown the famous Bucentaur and heard an account of the ceremony in which she took part each Ascensiontide".
variety and completeness of the
most worthy
The extent
in Venice,
See
p. 89.
The Capitano of Istria is still the chief ofificial of the Head Quarters at Parenzo, north of Rovigno.
^ "
See See
p. 90.
p. 97.
See
p.
92
f.
94, 96.
"
See
p. 95.
xlii
INTRODUCTION
Rialto, etc. are only lightlytouched on, but the gondolas receive more attention \ On
the whole,
gett,
but
Venice are
"
wayes
tO'
On
for
the 4th August, 1620, Pindar and his train set out
Turin,
"which boates,
with horses^."
after our
to
are
Padua^ drawne
On
the
the "pleasant
Country howses of the Nobillitie and gentlemen of Venice."' At Padua the party lodged for three nights at The Golden Star. While there, Pindar exchanged visits with the youngLord Maltravers and his brother, who were studying at the University^ In the city Mundy remarked the " many voyd places and ruynes''." He has no comment on any of
the public buildings except the Hall "to heere lawe suites^"" the party travelled by to Verona was now augmented by three followers, but lost Thomas Humes "the ScottishmanV' who remained at Padua. Randolph Symes, the Levant Company's agent for the transmission of letters at Venice and the neighbourhood, accompanied Pindar as far as Vicenza and stayed with him at The Three Kings. On the 7th August, the travellers dined at Villa Nuova and reached The Cavaletta at Verona on the same day. The " Amphitheater" in this "famous and auntienf^" city claimed Mundy's attention. In 1655, while on his third voyage to India on the Alleppo Alejxhajit, he added to his earlier description a further account from the Travels of George Sandys The cavalcade was now following the post road tO'
"
From Padua
It
Caroches^."
Milan.
On
thence to
Peschiera,
"
stronge
are vessells
both
for fishinge
that night
was
97
f.
at
and transportation ^" The resting place The Venetian Arms in Lonato.
2
''
*
''
p.
p. 99.
p. 102
f.
p. 98.
p. 43.
p. 104.
^ "
See See
p. 100.
p. loi.
INTRODUCTION
xliii
On the 9th August, Brescia was reached and the party dined at " the signe of the Tower, a very faire Hosteria or
Inne\" Here Mundy noted the fortifications and the "good Castle which is noe more then needs, it standing soe neare the Spanish Dominions^" At Brescia, too, he first observed sufferers from goitre, a malady to which he makes
frequent allusions.
Late
in
at Orzi Vecchi. Passing Orzi Nuovi, "a very strong walled and well kept
was crossed
"
by
boat.
extra-
the method of training the vines Mundy's admiration. From Soncino, "a
Duchy
of Milan, Pindar
"
and
his train
walled
TowneV'
Four miles beyond Crema, the boundary proper of the Duchy of Milan was reached, and thence the party pushed on to Lodi, where the wooden bridge over the Adda was broken, " soe past it over by The night boate, and dyned at the Catt and the bell." was spent at The Eagle and Horn at Malegnano. On the
evening of the following day, the iith August, 1620, "wee
came
and dyned
"
att
the
Three Kings^"
On
his
way
Duke
of Feria,
the Governor,
and went
back to our
The Naviglio-Grande
the
1
"
great
flatt
See See
p. 104.
See See
p. 105. p. 108.
See
p. 106.
p. 107.
xliv
INTRODUCTION
for Milan,
produce
farther,
Two
miles
the party
came
and
swifteV over which boats conveyed them to the other side, where there was no further hindrance to their progress,
and nearly forty miles were covered in the day. Between Novara and Vercelli the boundary of the Duchy of Milan was passed, and the travellers entered the territory of the Duke of Savoy. At Vercelli were many evidences of the
"a great number of dwellings, etts. buildings, downe and levelled with the grounds" Here the night was spent at The Cardinal's Hat. On the 13th August they dined at The Angel at Sian, and reached The Golden Lion at Chivasso the same evening. The next day the party arrived at Turin, " the principall seate of the Duke of Savoy-," where Pindar, as an exsiege of 1617,
battered
ambassador, had a grand reception both from Sir Isaac Wake, the English ambassador, and from representatives of
the
Duke
in
of Savoy
"
"himselfe was
faire
lodged
very
furnished^" and had a suite of servants appointed to attend him "Also the provisions att the Dukes charged" During his two days' stay in Turin, Pindar paid formal visits to the various members of the family of the Duke of Savoy. He also went to see "the Dukes great Gallerye^" with its " Curious statues and Pictures, with 48 presses of bookes and great store of Armour^" For the next portion of the journey fresh horses were hired to go as far as Lyons, at about 4. each, and on the afternoon of the i6th August, 1620, the party was escorted out of the city with great pomp, the two ambassadors riding " both in one Coach^ " as far as the " Three flowre de Luces " at Avigliana, where Sir Isaac Wake remained
;
morning. The travellers then proceeded The Three Pigeons at Bussolena and prepared to "enter the Alpesl" From Bussolena they went on to Novalese,
until the following
to
On
See
p. 108. p. III.
See
5gg See
p_
jQg
See
p.
no.
p. 112.
INTRODUCTION
they began the ascent of Mt. Cenis
"
xlv
between Savoy and Piedmont, they continued the ascent to the " faire, cleire Lake" on the top\ near which was the
building erected for the reception of Princess Christine,
when, a year previously, she had journeyed from France to Savoy as the affianced bride of Victor-Amadeus, the Duke's
eldest son.
At
this
in
Lordshipp went to visitt and thanck his highnes for the great honour and loveinge entertainement which hee had received att Turing" Now began the "discent of the mountaine^" which was " wonderfull Steepie, soe that every man allighted, my Lord beinge carried downe in a chaire betweene Two men I" At Lanslebourg the travellers dined at The Three Kings. On the Piedmont side of the mountain Mundy found the patois " hard for us to understands" From Lanslebourg, the road lay along the valley of the
Arc,
"
there beinge
all
the
way
great
falls
of WaterV'
thence to St Michel and St Jean de Maurienne, " a Stronge walled Towne^" and the only one (except Chambery)
"
among
commended by Mundy.
built
and as poorely inhabited','' the people, too, were, many of them, sufferers from goitre, some of them having "greate Wenns under their Chinns...as bigg as a mans heads" At Aiguebelle, on the 29th August, the party split up, Pindar and his immediate entourage going on to Montmelian, while the " Servants and stuffe remained heereS" On the arrival of the baggage at Chambery, the servants heard that their master had " passed forward " to Aiguebelette. At Chambery, Mundy and his companions enjoyed the comforts provided at The Golden Apple, "a Compleat howse and very good entertainementS"
described as
tiled
"
laste... within
"
the Alpes,"
is
with
with slates
See p. Seep.
113.
115.
^Seep.
5
ii3f.
117.
^ "
Seep.
See p. Seep.
114.
116.
xlvi
INTRODUCTION
There yet remained the peak of Aiguebelette, which though "very steepy upp and downed" was crossed on the 22nd August, 1620. At Pont de Beauvoisin, the boundary between France and Savoy, Pindar awaited his servants and baggage. The united party proceeded to Bourgoin and thence to the " Posthowse^" at La Verpilliere. On the 24th August, they reached Lyons, where Mundy noted the floating-mills on the Rhone and Saone, but found them " much inferior in Beautie and bignes " to " those of He had no time to examine the buildings at Belgrade-." Lyons on account of his short stay there, and he only remarks of the city that it was "great and populous. ..of great Traffique, aboundinge with Merchants and Shopp-
keepersV
On
This
Attendants " went on with fresh horses to Tarare, " my Lord etts. being to come after^." Being unimpeded with baggage, the gentlemen had no difficulty in overtaking the servants and pack-horses at Roanne on the following
time the
day.
Here
fresh transport
The
horses were dismissed and two boats were hired, at a cost of about 4. los., to convey the party down the Loire to
Orleans.
Owing
aground twenty or thirty tymes every day^" and Orleans was not reached until the eighth day after leaving Roanne. Mundy found " all the Countrey downe the River very pleasant and full of Citties, Townes, villages and buildSt Aubin-sur-Loire and ings, meadowes, gardens, etts.'*" halting-places on the 29th and 30th La Charite were the
were
"
August.
city so
"
At
La
Mundy was struck by the " great and whole Townes of them " on the Loire^ and he especially remarked the Huguenot stronghold at Sancerre, which he saw in the distance after
with a stone bridged"
store of protestants
1
Seep. See p.
118. 123.
Seep. See p.
119.
120.
^
"^
122.
INTRODUCTION
passing
xlvil
La
the
Charite^
fifty
On
floatinge Mills'-."
On
lodged
31st
August, after
"
a stronge
Towne.
Here wee
arrived at
howse^"
The party
Orleans late on the ist September, 1620, and, as the journey was continued early on the following morning Mundy had no time to see "perticulers worth notice in this famous placeV' except the " very faire stone bridge with shopps and buildings on itl"
The distance between Orleans and Paris was covered by coach. Soon after they set out, the travellers came upon the bodies of " two men executed, one hanged on a Tree, and the other layd on a wheeled" The road led through Artenay and thence to Toury, the route now followed by the railway. Mundy, however, drove along "a Cawsye " through " plaine and level P " country. On
the 3rd September, the coaches passed through Angerville, Etampes and Arpajon, the latter part of the way "a little
though pleasant, fruitefull, and full of TownesV " three Black moores " at Arpajon, the cavalcade went direct to Paris, by Longjumeau and Bourg-la-Reine, " all the way wonderfully peopled and Inhabited"*." Just outside the city were the remains of four poor wretches who had been broken on the wheel. In Paris, Pindar's party lodged at the Iron Cross in the
Hillie,
From
the
Rue St Martin. Mundy made good use of the two days he spent in the French capitals With Messrs Davis and Wilson he visited the Louvre, Notre Dame, the unfinished Luxembourg palace, the Exchange, and St Innocents' Church. The bridges over the Seine, especially the Pont Neuf, with its clock and statues of Jean d'Arc and Henri IV., excited his admiration. In the Louvre he noted the most important sculptures and paintings, especially the portrait of Marie de Medici by Pourbus. The " Store^
See See
p. 121. p. 124.
See
p. 122.
See
p. 123.
130.
xlviii
INTRODUCTION
howses full of Deadmens bones^" in St Innocents' churchyard astonished him. Of the Bourse he thought but little^ but was highly pleased with " the prospect of the whole Cittie-" which he beheld from one of the towers of Notre
Dame.
On
out,
of their
having hired fresh coaches from Paris to Calais. Two number were left behind, " Signor Dominico with a Passing through feavour and Vincentio to attend him I"
St Denis, Pierrefitte, St Price, Moisselles, and Beaumont, " a faire Towne^" the party reached Pisieux in the evening.
"
Beauvais and slept at Le Hamel, a poore Towne where wee had as poore entertainement^" Thence they went on through Poix to Pont Remy, "a
at
On the 9th walled Towne, and lay att the Crowned" September, they breakfasted at Abbeville, dined at Bernay,
"a poore TowneV' and, passing through Montreuil and Neufchatel, reached Boulogne on the loth September, Here Mundy's eyes were gladdened by the sight of 1620. English Channel, " haveing seene noe Sea att all since the At Boulogne the party our departure from Venice'." " att the Grayhound in the lower Tovvnel" Thence lodged they followed the coast, "and in sight of England''," to Marquise and Calais. The large settlement outside the walls of this "stronge Towne*'" attracted Mundy's attention. At the gates the travellers were disarmed and were warned
not to approach the walls or bulwarks.
cations,
Mundy
At
cross to
Preparations were made to England on the 12th September, but "the Wynde
"
overbloweing
Barr'."
See See
See
p.
130.
130.
^
'
Seep.
131.
Seep.
132.
p. 134.
INTRODUCTION
passage was
small boats,
xlix
made
off
was anchored
in three hours and a half. The "Catche" Dover and the passengers were landed in while "the Stuffe went about into the Haven^"
That night, the 13th September, 1620, the first that Mundy had spent on English soil since January, 1618, he slept at Meanwhile, Pindar was welcomed home the " Grayhound." by his brother Ralph and his kinsman, Mr Spike. At Dover, Mr Lane, who seems to have been Pindar's purveyor and paymaster, hired "a great Waggon^" to convey the baggage to Gravesend, and sent it off in charge of seven servants. The remainder of the party left Dover on the 14th September and reached the Chequer's Inn at Canterbury the same evening. Mundy found the " Cathedrall Church " with its " multitude of windowes of coloured glasse" very "goodly to behold I" The city, too, he describes as having " faire streets and Shopps well furnished^."
On
the
15th
September,
the
party
proceeded,
via
Thence, they went two gigs. At Blackwall, five coaches were in readiness to convey the travellers to Pindar's house at Islington, where Mundy slept on the i6th and 17th September. On the i8th, he took leave of the ex-ambassador, " humbly thancking him for divers favours received of him^" Whether Mundy had any intercourse with Pindar during his sojourn at Constantinople, or whether he only obtained
permission to travel in Pindar's suite through the influence
of Lawrence Greene,
is
uncertain.
It
is
clear,
however,
ability
and
for
Mundy
to
See
M.
p. 134.
See
p. 135.
See
p. 136.
INTRODUCTION
voyages, and
it
early
" seriously
recommended
Sir
Paul
Pindar
himself
who
tells
Company
in 1634.
Mundy
It
is,
howeven
when
in
mansion
in
With
journeys,
his usual
end of Relation II., that the distance from London to Constantinople amounts " by my Computation^" to 1838 miles. His rate of travelling was,
Belgrade, Spalato, Venice,
etc.
Mundy
Of
from Constantinople to London " Mundy has but a scanty record. He tells us that his Third Relation is, like the First,
"recollected
by memorie-." In March,
summer
his uncle
on behalf of his father, and Mr Richard Wyche. In 1622, he was back " in England, for he tells us that, in April, he " covenanted to serve Richard Wyche for " five yeares on certaine Conditions V one of which, as we learn later, was that of keeping His salary, i^20 per annum, was exclusive of accounts.
Seville with a cargo of pilchards
board and lodging. Mundy is silent as to his employment during the first three years of his contract, and we have no hint as to whether he spent the time in England or abroad. At the beginning of the fourth year of his service, he was sent by a syndicate of copper-contractors (of whom Richard Wyche was one) to Spain, in connection with their business.
"
He
Irun a week
later.
They
travelled
by short
stages,
changing horses as
as twenty times a day, " a very painfull imployment one not accoustomed"*." From Irun, Mundy and Davis to went to St Sebastian and thence to Vittoria. Here, George
^
many
Seep.
136.
Seep.
145.
Seep.
137.
Seep.
138.
INTRODUCTION
Wyche, one of Richard's younger
about the Contracte aforesaid^"
brothers,
H was
"
Prisoner
How
or
why
the luckless
George was imprisoned does not appear, nor has a search records produced any independent mention of this Copper Contract. Mundy went on to Valladolid, where a suit in connection with his employers' business was "dependinge in the Chauncery," but he says
among contemporary
From
other sources,
we
learn that
later.
If
were interested
one of the
"
Kingdome
I
of Spaine^
with
have yett seene-." He also notes the tomb of the Cardinal Duke of Lerma, who was buried there just before his arrival. During the four months that he remained in Valladolid, Mundy witnessed bull-baiting and other public sports, but, though he is discursive as to places and things of interest in Spain, he is
Place or Placa that
curiously reticent about the business which had brought
him
he returned to England.
he made any stay in Vittoria or paid the imprisoned George Wyche. At Sebastian, Mundy took his passage for England in St the Margett, commanded by Captain Molton. On his return he found his master " dangerously sick of the
does not
tell
us
if
any further
visit to
Dropsie."
to Colchester
"
about some
"Master
1
left
and Peter
^
Mundy was
p. 142.
*
once more
See
p. 143.
See
p. 139.
See
p. 140.
See
Hi
INTRODUCTION
his
thrown on
Having nothing to detain went downe " to his " freinds in Cornewall by Land\" He "remained a while att Home," and next "made a voyage" to St Malo and Jersey, but whether on business or for his own pleasure is uncertain. It is not improbable, however, that he was sent to Brittany
resources.
own
him
in the
capital,
he
"
by
At
"
very great
also im-
He was
"
returned to
Mundy's
settle
down
was
to a quiet
He
1627, he addressed a petition to the Directors of the East India Company, praying for employment in India as a
factor,
and
"
to
substance of
it is
"Peter
Mundy
late servant to
Mr
hee lived three yeares at Constantinople, and hath in some good measure gayned the French, Spanish and Italian tongues, besides hee was The Court well commended to bee of Civill conversation. called him in and demaunded what allowance hee had
shewed by
his
petition
that
per annum.
They
The Court
left it to his
Considera-
his
five
'^
See
p.
144.
vol. x. p.
34.
INTRODUCTION
years'
Hii
experience under Richard Wyche as of some monetary value, and that he would be loth to start at the same salary as before. Whether his own arguments prevailed, or whether, as is more likely, his influential friends put in a word in his favour, it is clear that the Directors were induced to alter their decision of the 31st October, 1627. On the 22nd February, 1628, Mundy's
Under Factor " is noted in the Minutes, his salary being 2^ per annum^. Moreover, an advance of ^ was made to him for "his better accomodaentertainment as an
"
tion
to sea."
members, the Garraways and the Harbys, who had direct or indirect knowledge of Mundy's abilities. The two Garways (or Garraways), Sir Henry and his brother William, were both also connected with the Levant Company and would know of Mundy's relations with the Wyche family and of his voyage to Constantinople on the Royall Merchant in company with their brother James, in 1617I These two Directors probably supported Mundy's petition, but the Harbys, Job and Clement, could speak from personal experience of the applicant's character and capacity. Job (afterwards Sir Job) Harby was cousin and brother-in-law of Mundy's late masters, James and Richard Wyche, and was one of the executors to the will of Richard Wyche,
others, of four
Company
at this
time
senior^
The
fact
that, while
in
India,
Mundy
to
specially
home
Job Harby
his appoint-
seems to show
that, in
some
degree, he
owed
ment
to the
Wyche
His connection with the family, and, through them, with the Harbys, must
influence.
for
Harby
have lasted
many
etc.
years.
observations"
at
Mundy
has a
paragraph about his old friends and also a reference to William Garraway*:
^ See p. 14. ^ See Appendix B. See note i on p. 145. This extract explains Mundy's remark quoted in note 7 on p. 156, It is unfortunate that the paragraph was not also pp. 162 and 165. unearthed in time to add to Appendix B.
1
liv
"
INTRODUCTION
1659 and 1660. Mr. NatJianiel Wiche dead in East India and Mr. Wm. Garraivay in Persia. About this tyme newes by letters from India overland from Surat to Agra, and soe to Aleppo, of the Death of Mr. Nathaniell
at Surat about this time twelve month. have known the father old Mr. Richard Wyche, nine of his sonnes and three of his Daughters, viz. Richard, Thomas,
Edward and
Nathaniel,
all
three alive\
Allso
William Garraway Agent in Persia, who went from England about the same tyme." Between October, 1627, when he applied for a post under the East India Company, and February, 1628, when his appointment was confirmed, Mundy "went downe into the Countrie to take leave-" of his friends and spent the In the New Year, he once Christmas of 1627 at Penryn.
Mr
to
attend
my
honourable
Mundy
gives a table of
and
all
amounteth
of about
in
to the
some
his first
voyage
age
own
With
his
voyage
period of Mundy's
life
begins,
his exII.
of his Travels.
I
have
now
followed Mundy's
career
it
up
to the
end
will
be of interest
His to remark on his personality as shown in his MS. prominent characteristics in boyhood and early manhood were love of travel, acute observation, and an insatiable He was interested appetite for information of all kinds.
1
Stt Appendix B.
Seep.
144.
Seep.
145.
"
INTRODUCTION
in
Iv
habits, clothes
everything he saw, and recounts details regarding the and customs of the people with whom he
in contact,
came
which
he travelled and the architectural features that attracted his Thus, he pauses in his story of the journey across notice. Turkey to descant on " Bathes, Besistenes and Canes,"
all
of them strange to an English eye, and digresses to explain the various kinds of punishments adopted by the
Turks. And then, to "divert" his readers' minds from such horrors, he passes on to what appears to be the only early seventeenth century account of the " severall sorts
of
Swinging used
he
took
in
their
Publique
notice
rejoycings."
At
Belgrade,
special
of
the
"
Bulgarians
appearance and clothes, and and marriage customs. At Sararemarking on jevo, too, he is struck with the muscular strength of the Later on, he gives us details of a lazaretto inhabitants. and rules as to quarantine, comments on the disease of
[Servians], describing their
their food
goitre,
and so
forth.
His
most
part, as accurate
He
tells
us of the revo-
and downfall Voivode of Moldavia, and of the visit of Caspar Gratiani, of Biirun Kasim, the Persian ambassador to Constantinople in 161 8. The death of Cardinal Boromeo, the siege of Vercelli, the marriage of Victor-Amadeus of Savoy, the exploits of Joan of Arc, the loss of Gascony by the English, the death of the Duke of Medina Sidonia and the Cardinal Duke of Lerma, the murders of Henri IV. and the Marechal d'Ancre, and many other happenings both before and after his journeys are all remarked upon by Mundy with more
lutions at Constantinople in 1617/8, of the rise
or less detail.
There are very few allusions to personal experiences in this volume, and, beyond the facts that he contracted an ague in the journey down the Loire, escaped a trick with a copper chain, and found posting across France a "very
painefuU employment,"
Mundy
tells
us
little
of himself.
Ivi
INTRODUCTION
library, as far as
His
man
of no fixed abode.
At the
but
in
England,
and probably brought up by his uncle, the Rev. John Jackson of North Petherwin, on the borderland between Cornwall and Devonshire, Mundy frequently exhibits a deeply religious habit of thought, and expresses it after At the end of almost every story the fashion of his day. of his voyages and journeys, he records his thankfulness to the Almighty for preservation from dangers and a safe home-coming; and on his return to England in 1647, he calculates that, in the thirty-six years from 1611, he has travelled upwards of 100,833 miles, and remarks that
he has been " preserved from 2000 Dangers." At the same time, Mundy abundantly shows himself by his observations to have been a man of remarkably broad views, and, though
apparently a Royalist and an Anglican, he has no gibes
against Puritanism, nor, indeed, does he ever indulge in
any
Mundy's energy, perseverance and capacity for work were enormous. Idleness seems to have been abhorrent to him, nor does he appear to have had any expensive It tastes or any great love of pleasure and amusement. troubled him to remain at home " waisting of meanes." His chief delight was to follow his "habitual Disposition of travelling," and certainly he must have gratified his taste almost to the full; the one bitter drop in his cup
being his inability to carry out his desire of circumnavigating the globe.
In disposition,
Mundy comes
before us
He
has
many mentions
of his
INTRODUCTION
*'
Ivil
friends,"
even
in these early
is
shown by the warmth with which he speaks of the oppressions endured by the Christians at the hands of the Turks.
ship of the
weak
The
man
is
is
his
transparent naturalness.
no
self-
He
tells his
story
throughout with unaffected candour, avoiding alike the verbosity of Coryat and the stilted style of Gainsford. The later volumes will reveal him as a man worthy both of
respect and admiration.
The
Mundy MSS.
Only one complete copy of Mundy's work is known to MS. volume now in the Bodleian Library,
MS.
A. 315.
From
this
volume the present transcript has been taken. Mundy would seem to have made no notes of
his early
voyages before the year 1620. In that year he kept a diary of his journey from Constantinople to London. From 162 1 to 1627 he again kept no regular chronicle In 1628, however, while on his first of his journeys. voyage to India in the Expedition, and in 1634, on the
return voyage to England in the Royall
his enforced idleness
Mary, he occupied
from memory
on board ship
in writing
the story of his early years, in putting into shape his diary
in 1620, and in amplifying his notes on all had happened during the six years he had spent in that India. These various stories he split up into nineteen Relations^, of which three only deal with his early European
of the events
travels.
On Mundy's
The
made
it
him
to Cornwall,
where
was
to
Mundy went
See pp.
7, 8.
Iviii
INTRODUCTION
to
make arrangements for his voyage to China, he left his MS. with his father, " who promised to send itt after mee, Butt lending itt to one or other, itt came not to
London
hand, Soe went to Sea without itt\"
No
MS. has been discovered and Mundy evidently considered The copy left with Sir Paul Pindar it irretrievably lost. happily escaped a similar fate and is now among the Harleian MSS. at the British Museum.
During the voyage to China, Mundy kept a journal the Nature off the former^" and on his return to England, finding his original MS. "not to bee procured" he had Pindar's copy " coppied outt againe into this booke, adding and Joyning thereto- " the narrative of the events
" in
tells
us in his
The re-copying
oi Relations
I.
to
XIX.
was probably done under Mundy's own eye as there are additions in the Razvl. MS., not found in the Harl. MS., such as the accounts of staking, gaunching, etc. which he may have dictated to the copyist as the work was proceeding. The Hai'l. MS., too, bears traces of careful revision by Mundy. There are corrections in his waiting, but no great additions such as those in the Rawl. MS. The in 1634, from the corrections were most likely made either original MS., or in 1639 when the second copy, Rawl. MS. A. 315, was begun. In 1640, when Mundy set out on his trading voyage to Holland, Prussia, etc., it is most probable that he took his MS. with him and continued the narrative of his travels in
he only kept rough notes, which he amplified after his return to England in 1647. At any rate, we know that, while at Penryn, early in 1650, he revised the whole of his MS., adding to his title the
his spare time, unless indeed
many
Relation
^
I.^
At Penryn,
2
same
^
year, he wrote
See
p. 2.
See
f.
See pp. 24
40.
INTRODUCTION
his first
lix
subjects
Appendix which contains notes on the following The Paradox of the " The Courten Voyage The Earth's Motion The Changes in Ringing of Bells County of Cornewall and Towne of Penrin Occurrences
:
at
Penrin in 1649."
Four years later, when in London, Mundy was again bent on revising his MS., for, as will have been already seen\ he wrote, on the i6th December, 1654, "My intention is, if God spare mee life and leisure, to Copy outt this booke
over againe, as well to
rectifie
whatt
is
amisse according to
things omitted by
my
to
abilitie,
as
allsoe to
insert
many
mee."
owing
to family misfortunes,
Mundy was
and, in
March
made
his third
voyage
to
India. This time we him, for the addition to his description of the amphitheatre
MS. with
his
at
is
in
own
writing and
dated
''
he sailed to India), '^August 2d, anno 165 5 1" During his voyage to and from India, Mundy probably once again revised his MS. and continued his life-story up to date. After his return to England, he began his last Appendix " some Occurrences, Passages, etts. since my last coming of home." From 1658 to 1663 he wrote in London, and from
1663 to 1667
his
in
Penryn.
He
Having leisure and spare paper I thought it nott amisse to set downe some accidents that have hapned since my last arrivall from India to this
MS. with
The second Citty which I have either seen or hearde of" Appendix bears no evidence of revision and the writing, The MS. though still excellent, shows traces of age. Proclamation after the concludes with a copy of the Royal Treaty of Breda, which " was read in our town in Penrin the eleventh of September Anno 1667." The MS., a thick folio volume, has no title on the
^
See
p. xviii.
Seep. 102
f.
Ix
cover,
is
INTRODUCTION
bound
in
some
III,
The
own
part done
by the
copyist, fols.
is
in a beautiful
of an earlier style,
more
difficult to decipher,
fols.
Of
the 247
as
is
excellent preserva-
illustrations,
all
apparently executed
by the author
and after the year 1639. I^ has besides six engravings and six double-page maps by Hondius. On these Mundy has marked his routes with red dotted All the maps, except that of the World, indicate lines.
the journeys described in Relations
I.
to
III.
Though
Mundy
has
"
no
in
duced
in
the present
fair
Those, however, which are reprovolume are not among his best, and
of his
skill
hardly give a
idea
as a draughtsman.
tells
Many
"taken
us,
were not
off
Sight. ..butt
long
after,
by apprehension
he should
"
has been
far as
collated
for the
was necessary
It
contains
in
no
illustrations, is in
an excellent
hand and
good
preservation. It has been in the custody of the British Museum since 1759 and was catalogued by Humfrey
Wanley for the Earl of Oxford some time before 1726. Harl. MS. 2286. Wanley's remarks are worth quoting " A Book in folio, not negligently written, rather seeming which at the beginning is to be prepared for the press
:
See
p. 4.
INTRODUCTION
thus entitled,
'
Ixi
and
Voyages into France, Spain, Turkey and East India passed and performed by Peter Mundy.' The Author or Traveller, who was of Penem^ in Cornwall, first went into France A.D. 1609, and the next year'-, served in a Merchants from which Station, by degrees, Ship as a Cabbin-boy he became employed in considerable business. He discovers a good Capacity joyn'd with Veracity and divides
; ;
his
of which
remember not that I have seen the Work itself in print." Here follows a Table of Contents of Relations I. XIX. slightly enlarged from Mundy's " First Table." Wanley concludes his remarks on Mundy's work thus " Although this Book be but a Copy, it is nevertheless corrected by the Author's hand." Besides the Raivl. and Harl. MSS. there are some late copies of portions of Mundy's work. The India
Office
XXX.
or
and second voyages to India, in 1628 and 1635 respectively, was apparently made from the Rawl. MS., for it contains tracings of the illustrations found only in the complete work. It was presented to the India Office on the 5th October, 18 14, by Thomas fisher^, F.S.A. This copy will be fully dealt with in the
succeeding volumes.
Of
century copies of events during Mundy's residence in India, 1628 There 1634, as told in Relatiojis V., VI. and VII.
is
also a
copy of part of
his
voyage to China.
These
in
Museum
MSS.
19278
II.
19281.
III.
1853
They
and
i.e.,
Penryn.
life
This is incorrect, Mundy went to France in 1608, and began as a cabin-boy in 161 1.
^
^
Ixii
INTRODUCTION
The only
other copy
known
to
work
is
that contained in
Add.
Collections for the History of Cornwall, made by Thomas Tonkin the Cornish historian (1678 1742). This MS. was, for some years, in the possession of the Ley family of Penzance, and was purchased by the authorities of the
Museum from the late Colonel H. H. Ley in December, 1888. Part 4 of the work consists of extracts made by Tonkin from Mundy's remarks on the " County of Cornewall and Towne of Penrin," together with a short note on the author and an abstract of the contents of his complete work. The portion of Tonkin's extract relating to the rising in Penzance in 1648 was reproduced by his Guide to Penzance, and is the only J. S. Courtney in piece of Mundy's writing, as far as can be discovered, that has so far ever been printed. Tonkin is responsible for
British
Mundy
He
"
MS. with
the remark^
Peter
Mundy
chandise from his Youth and of A Rambling Genius has Compiled A Large thick Folio Book Adorn'd with cuts, both drawn and Printed. ...Which Book He intended for the Press had not Death prevented him." Tonkin may have had the authority of the Worths, who then owned the MS., for Mundy's intentions as to its ultimate fate and also for his information that Richard Mundy was the The author himself, however, gives no father of Peter.
hint that
Travels.
his early
"
He
cursary
oughtt or
Making accompt to make Much aim, when he first began his work, remembraunce " and "to pleasure
and superficial and Mightt have Don, never accompt off itt"-." His was to "keepe my owne such Freinds Thatt are
"
fol.
104
b.
See
p. 3.
INTRODUCTION
revise the
Ixiii
abandoned
whole book, but eventually he appears to have this idea and only to have added fresh matter
when the Mundy MS. passed into the possesWorths is, at present, not known. When Tonkin examined it, it was the property of Mrs Dorothy Worth, " Relict of John Worth Junr. of Tremogh\" Mabe, Cornwall. An examination of the wills of the Worth
or
How
sion of the
Mabe
is
Penryn,
it
is
known
to
Mundy.
the
at
burial in
days
Indeed, since there is no entry of his Penryn registers, he may have ended his Mabe and bequeathed his life's work to his friends.
As
Peter
Mundy
last
wishes
must perforce
rest
on
From the Worths, the Mundy MS. passed into the hands of Thomas Rawlinson, collector and bibliophile (i68i it was probably purchased. 1725), by whom When the Rawlinson MSS. were sold, in 1734, Mundy 's work was acquired by the Bodleian Library, Oxford, and there it has lain, practically forgotten for nearly
175 years.
1
fol.
104
b.
I i
IKERARll^Sl
uril,eWorlclf-Vo:n-1S6/i;^c..6-V
V"
Pfiisiia.Polojiia
!'
rJicM'orlhsiJp oflKc
.,jj^<; i.j-j
y--
A.
315
i^Atithors Title)
ITINERARIUM^ MUNDII
THAT
IS
MEMORIALL
OR
SUNDRY RELATIONS OF CERTAINE VOIAGES JOURNEIES ETTC: PASSED AND PERFORMED INTO SOME PARTS OF ENGLAND: HOLLAND, FRAUNCE, SPAINE, ITALIE, TURKY, EAST INDIA, CHINA, THE ILANDS OF ST. LAURENCE, SUMATRA ETTC: TO THE SOUTH AND EAST PARTS: OF THE WORLD FROM ANNO 1611 TO 1639
ALSO2 UNTO SOME PARTS OF DENMARCK PRUSSIA: POLONIA: & MOSCOVIA OR RUSSIE TO THE NORTH SIDE OF THE WORLD FROM
ANNO
1639
TO
1648:
BY
PETER: MUNDY:
page
of the MS., which precedes the title, contains a doubleof the World by Hondius, dated 1630. On it are traced in dotted red lines the routes of Mundy's Travels, with red ciphers to indicate the track of his intended Voyages.
^
Fol.
map
portion of the title is an addition, pi'obably made the author revised his MS. in 1650. In the British Museum copy, Harl. MS., 2286, the title is, " Breife Relation of CertaineJournies and Voyages into Fraunce, Spaine, Turkey and East India,, passed and performed by Peter Mundy."
^
The second
when
M.
{Authors
Preface^
PREFACE'
BY
AND
IN.
RELATIONS.
Those voyages, Journeies,
the tyme off the
etts.
mee From
I
my off my tyme
First
Departure From
my
Parentts^ untill
did sett
one booked
This
Booke, att
my
carried with
mee
in
to the Country^
First taken
and
left
in the
my comming away
to send
itt
itt
With
my
Father,
itt
who promised
one or
other,
itt,
mee.
Butt, lending
;
to
came not
to
hand
Soe Went
to
Sea
Without
voyage
The voyage
Nature
to China,
etts.''
From whence,
to
There
i.e.
is
no Preface
I.,
in the British
^
Museum copy,
^
*
In 1608.
Relations
II.,
In Sept. 1634.
and
III.,
^
volume.
To Penrhyn,
^ For the author's connection with Sir Paul Pindar, see Introduction and Relation II.
"^
In 1636.
In December, 1638.
in
visit
This "Journall"
is
embodied
first
XXL
author's preface
adding and Joyning thereto
rences \
this
last
lett
FoUowing
That
itt
consists of three
Manner
is
of Writing,
viz.,
princopall
Journall Wise:
To
and each Daies sayling by Sea, off which I took butt a Cursary and superccall^ Notice as a Passenger, and. To say
truth, nott soe puntuall as I oughtt or
to
What
keepe
my owne
remembraunce on occasion
ticularities
As
allsoe to
pleasure such
somwhatt
recollected
off Forraigne
Coun-
Sundry passages
Forth
by Memory,
as
From
my First setting
off
untill
my arrivall att
Constantinople^,
other, butt
Not Many,
Which
Here are in Divers places inserted the reports 3. and Writings off others, as the tables off lattitude"*, longitude, etts. throughoutt this book. For Which I was beeholding
unto
my
Freinds, Seamen,
As
allsoe
Sundry
relationes
and
Men
1 This The remark seems to refer to the " China Voyage." author apparently wrote his Preface before making the voyages and journeys described in Relations XXXI. XXXVI.
i.e.
superficial.
first
*
5
The
e.g.
the
author's
Supplement
Sandys,
etc.
in
the
4
considered
1.
author's preface
Secondly, in the Designes or Figures^ there
is
to bee
att
Sight (Most of
after,
them)
by
Thatt
have no
skill in portraicture,
only
have
endeavoured
mentioned.
to expresse the
Most Meteriall
They are all drawne on loose papers, slightly pasted in, Which may bee easily taken out againe, because I may hereafifter perchaunce cause them to bee better Don
3.
and inserted
Thirdly.
and
in the
Now
there Fastened-.
Well
this
others off
kind
I.
large extentt.
Differing in Religion,
Customes, habitts,
And
etts.
bee considered
Whatt
is
spoken
is
off or
properly (as
conceave)
butt one
Named
Derived, or
From
Now
under this
Name
1
is
encluded
From
by sea and
in
the
Rawand
linson
MS.
2 Some of the illustrations are gummed on to the text used, others are interleaved. The " void spaces " are very few.
3 Mundy was in India from 1628 to 1634, during the first year of Shah Jahan's reign, and before he had removed the Court from Agra back to Delhi. * The latter derivation is nearest the truth. The modern English 'India' is from (Skr.) Smdim, through Persian Hi7idii., Greek 'IvSoi and 'ivdtKT], and Latin India. As also is Indus through Greek 'Iv86s.
'
'
author's preface
by
land, there lying
Inffinite
allso
beetweene,
greatt,
as
in
the
South Sea\
ward
or South
2.
There
bin in those
Itt is to
Ward off the lyne. may bee enquiry made off some thatt have parts and yett they know of Noe such Matter.
or else
se
[?
so]
For
example, a straunger
May
live in
Nor enquired
3.
off
some
and Deliberate
I
in censuring,
Meane and
Decorum
Suiteable, yett
(as
I
off variety
Allsoe, thatt
in
those long
know
[?
thereof
tyme
thatt
may bee
spared, Desiring
it
No
Farther estimation
thereof thatt
than] thatt
may
bee reckoned
among
those recreationes
able (off
Which
are
Which
The
the
trading places
in
e.g.
Malay peninsula, Sumatra, etc., were, in the 17th commonly known as the " South Seas." ^ An allusion to the punishment known as the peine forte
the torture formerly applied to persons arraigned for felony, who refused to plead. Their prostrate bodies were pressed with heavy weights till they pleaded or died. The first Parliament of Edward I., 1 275, is responsible for its introduction. The custom was not abolished till 1772, although it had been a 'dead letter' for many years previously.
6
Discours,
etts.).
author's preface
I
Doe
allsoe
Many
things
are Misplaced, as
to the Contrary
;
some
and soe
some things
therin
mought bee
better
place.
lefftt
Were
better in there
Thus For Matter and phrase. All this allsoe I could Mend, and When I had Don, even begin againe,
butt, as
I
said, the
lett this
phrase
is
Yett,
itt,
however,
Thatt
my
owne experience
I
or the
off others.
severall
places of
this
Booke^ in which you may observe redd pricked lines. Those Doe shew the Countries Wee passed through, the
places
Wee came
the
unto,
and the
Way Wee
went.
Only
Where
formed
Way
is
traced with
ciffres,
voyages and Journies Were only intended and not perfor certaine reasons,
Down Which
Chyna
to the
Wee
Macao
in
Aqua-
John d'Ullooa
att the
etts.,
Fol. 148^,
World
from Arckangell
Russia
and soe
to
Dantzigke
in Prussia.
and
the
1
Mappe
allso.
viz.
The maps inserted in the Rawlmson MS. are seven in number, The World, Europe, Turkey and Arabia, Italy, Savoy, Gaul, and
Asia.
2 A spot situated on the east coast of Mexico, north of Vera Cruz, formerly well-known to mariners, but which has now disappeared from modern maps. There is no mention of St John d'Ulloa on fol. 148 of the MS. In the paragraph which explains why Mundy did not complete his voyage round the world, he says he intended to go from Manilla " to " Aquapullco," and thence overland to " Pueblo de los Angeles."
'
i.e.
of the Rawlinson
MS.
{Authors
Contents.)
THE
FIRST TABLE.
Relation
untill
I.
Of my
First
my
Departure From home about Anno 1608 Anno 161 7 and Departure
:
thence in
Anno 1620^
Relation II. A Journey overland From Constantinople unto London beegun the 6th. of May Anno 1620. Relation III. Other voyages, Journeies, etts. occurring since my arrivall att London untill the tyme of my entertaynementt For
East India. Relation IV. Journall of a voyage made in the good Shipp Expedition^ burthen 350 tonnes, Thomas Watts Master, in company off thejojiah, burthen 800 tonnes, both bound For Suratt in East
India under the Commaund of Captaine Richard Swanley^. Relation V. Some passages att Suratt since my arrivall there in September 1628 untill my Departure thence For Agra in November 1630 With a Discription of Sundry perticularities in and about
Suratt aforesaid.
Relation VI.
A Journey offe from Suratt in Guzaratt to Agra in Hindostan, whither Peter Mundy and John Yard were enordered
sentt
and
etts.
honourable Companies affaires. Relation VII. A Journey From Agra to Cole and Shawgurre beeing Dispeeded by Mr. William Fremlen aboutt the Companies affaires. Relation VIII. A Journey from Agra to Puttana on the borders off" Bengala with eight cartts laden With Quicksilver a smalle peece
titles of the Relations vary in the copies at the British Museum the India Office from those here given. The discrepancies will be noted under each separate Relation.
^
The
and
at
The copy
at the
8
of Vermillion
and som English Cloath For accompt off the Honourto bee there sold and returnes made As allso to see the estate of the Country and Whatt hopes off Benefifitt by
Company
delation IX. Reasons alleadged by Peter Mundy beefifore his Departure Agra thatt the sending him for Puttana With the Companies goods may nott only proove to theer losse but is playnely against the Presidentts and Counsells Meaning and
intentt.
Eelation X.
Puttana.
Issue of the
Imploymentt For
Relation XL Of Puttana and off AbduUa Ckhaun governour thereofif. Relation XII. The Returne From Puttana to Agra. Relation XIII. Discription off the Greatt MogoU Shaw Jehan his comming from Brampore, Where hee lay Warring against Decan, unto his Gardein called Darree ca bag, and so to Agra. Relation XIV. The greatt MogoU his riding to Buckree Eede his Courtt, Marriage of his two sonnes Favourites etts. Relation XV. Of Agra Whatt Notable there and thereaboutts, as the Castle, gardeins, tombes, Festivalls, Customes, etts. Relation XVI. A Journey from Agra to Suratt with a Caphila consisting of 268 Cammells and 109 Carts, Whereon Was laden 1493 Fardles of Indico and 12 Fs. off Saltpeter etts. goodes, Dispeeded by Mr. William Fremlen under the Conduct off Peter Mundy with a Convoy off 170 Peones or Souldiers. Relation XVII. Some passages and troubles More perticulerly concerning the Caphila afforementioned occurring in the Conductt
:
theroff.
Relation XVIII.
Swally.
Off India
in
generall
and
off the
Mareene
att
Relation XIX. Journall off a voyage from Suratt to England on the Shipp Royall Mary, Commaunder Captain James Slade,
Wherin Went home passengers Mr. John Norris, Cape Merchant, Mr. Henry Glascock, Mr. Thomas Willbraham, and my selff
Factors^.
Relation XX.
India
Some
observations
since
my
arrivall
home From
Anno
Relation XXI. Journall off a voyage off a Fleet consisting off four shippes and two pinnaces sett Forth by the right Worshipfulle Sir William Courtene, Knight the Designe For India, China,
;
"
The Table"
in the copy,
on a New Discovery ofif trafifique in those parts, Sundry relationes allsoe Following the Number afforegoing, and First From England to Goa in East India^ Our Departure Goa and arrivall att Battacala, Eelation XXII.
Devided
in to
Where was setled a Factory. Relation XXIII. Since our Departure Battacala in East India untill our arrivall att Achem on the Hand of Sumatra our selling off a
:
Factory there
allsoe.
Kelation
XXIV.
passages.
:
and arrivall att Our Departure From Macao Fumahone, Taytfoo, etts., places att the Mouth off Cantan River With ourDaungers and troubles there undergon etts. occurrences. Eelation XXVI. From the tyme otf our Departure Tayffoo untill our arrivall att Macao againe and Whatt trafifick Wee obteyned
XXV.
etts.
passages
in the Interm.
Relation
XXVII.
toutching att
From Macao in China, our Mallacca and arrivall att Achem on the Hand off
Our Departure
Sumatra.
Eelation XXVIII. Since our Departure from Achem on the Hand off Sumatra untill our arrivall att the Hand off Mauritius and'
departure thence againe.
Eelation XXIX. From the Hand off Mauritius unto the Hand ofif Madagascar or Saint Lawrence, Where Wee Wintred. Eelation XXX. Our Departure From the Hand of Madagascar or Saint Lawrence, our toutching and reffreshing att the Hand off Saint Hellena and our arrivall att last unto the Hand ofif Greatt
Brittaine.
Eelation XXXI. A Petty Progresse through som parts off England and Wales. Eelation XXXII. A passage From England over in to Holland With some perticularities off thatt Country. Eelation XXXIII. A voyage from Amsterdam unto Dantzigk in
the
Baltick Sea,
off
Prussia
etts.
Countries
adjoyning.
Eelation XXXIV. A voyage from Dantzigk in the East or Baltick Sea unto Saint Michael Arckangell in Russia, lying on the White Sea, with the return From thence and some small observation ofif
those Northerne Regions.
The
titles
of Relations
XXL XXVL
in the late
copy and
copy
MSS., 19281.
lO
Relation
Sett
Eelation XXXVI. My third voyage to East India on the Ship Alleppo Merchantt for Rajapore etts.
An Appendix somwhatt Concerning the former Relations as allsoe Matter of exercise and recreation after the reading of soe many tedious voyages and Weary Journies. Penrin the fourth february
Anno 1649^ Some Occurrences, Passages,
London
9th.
etts.
since
my
last
comming home
etts.^
COMPUTATION OF MILES TRAVELLED AND SAILED IN THE SEVERALL JOURNEIES & VOYAGES MENTIONED IN THIS MEMORIALL VIZ:
From my
hath
Miles
First going Forth
at
161
1,
till
my
of
arrivall
bin
gon
in
Sundry voyages
etts.
somme
17394
late
From
Constantinople
1620
Pindar,
home by Land with the Honorable Paul Embassador there with the Grand Signior,
1838
etts.
Anno
England, 1620, 5880 till I Was bound outt and sett saile For East India, 1628 13713 From London to Suratt in East India in Just six monthes tyme 551 From Suratt to Agra, the head citty of India by land. Anno 1630 From Agra to certaine townes thereabouts and to the River 180 Ganges
Severall voiages, Journeies,
since
my
arrivall in
..........
400|^ From Agra to Puttna in Bengala on the River Ganges, by land From Puttana backe to Agra Anno 1632 422f 598 From Agra Downe to Suratt With a Caphila of Indico etts. 1632 From Suratt home on the Roy all Mary, Capt. Jas. Slade, Anno
....
on
1634
137181
This Appendix was probably added by the author when he revised his
after the loss of the original of the first part, as stated
p. 2.
MS.
2
3
The
appendix
from 1660
till
1667.
II
twice,
Penrin
ports
in
Anno
880
and Hands in East India, As allso the kingdom of China, August, Anno
17141
China and East India home, beeing beaten back to Madagascar or St. Laurence there to Winter, Anno 1638 18923 From England, viz. Falmouth, through some parts of England and Wales over to Holland, thence to Dantzigk on the East orBaltick Sea Anno 1640 1944 From Dantzigk on the Baltick Sea unto Arckeangell in Russia on the White Sea, aboutt by the North Cape alongst the Coasts and in sight of Norwey, Lapland, Fynland, by Way of Lubeck and Hambro and back againe to Dantzigk, Anno 1641 5840 From Dantzigk to London and Downe to Falmouth once again, 1410 1647 From Falmouth to London, from thence to East India, and backe againe to London, in August, Anno 1656 27900
Tayffoo, Macao,
etts. in
:
:
From
AN ALPHABETICALL TABLE
ticularities this
Dispersed throughoutt
is
Mark *
It
[Here follows the author's index of 418 entries, which occupies five foolscap pages in the MS.^]
not printed.
arranged under the letters of the alphabet, but the words not in alphabetical order. There are several additions in a made at a later date. In many cases, a definition of the word indexed is given as well as its location in the MS. Where these definitions elucidate the text, they have been appended as footnotes.
^
This Index
is
are, nevertheless,
^ Immediately after the Index three prints ai-e inserted in the MS. The smallest contains the portrait of Thomas Candyssh, the navigator, at the age of twenty-eight. By his side is a portrait of Sir Francis Drake at the age of forty-three. Beneath these two is a picture of a three-masted ship in full sail,
with flags and pennants flying. Following the three illustrations is a double-page map of Europe, by Hondius, dated 1631, with the route of Mundy's voyages and journeys marked in red dotted lines. The reverse of the map is covered with extracts from Blount's Voyage in the Levant and notes by the author, made in Febiiiary, 1650. These are intended to amplify and illustrate his early European travels, and
are printed
and treated
in
Appendix A.
SUNDRIE RELATIONS OF CERTAIN VOYAG'S, JOURNEIES, ETTS., PASSED AND PERFORMED BY MEE, PETER MUNDY, VIZT.'
RELATION
I.
Of my first departttre from home about Anno 1608 nntill my arrivall at Constantinople in Anno 16 17 and departure thence in Anno 1620 as followeth.
From
Penrin^ in Cornewall,
passed with
my
I
father to
the Cittie of
Roane
in
was sent
in
Bayon*
in
Gascony
to learne the
I
to
The 1st. May, 161 1. I left my Parents, and went upp London with Captaine John Davis^, whome I served as
^ In the British Museum copy of Mundy's Travels, Harleian MS.^ 2286, the title of Relation I. is, " Sundrie Relations of Certaine Journies and Voyages " etc., and the title in " The Table " is,^ " Imprimis my passage with my Father to the Cittie of Roane in Normandie, Anno 1610, and at my returne a Voyage from London to Constantinople." 2 " Penrin, a pretty towne in Corne Wall." Authors Index.
3 ^
Captain John Davis of Sandridge, the celebrated explorer, nor Captain John Davis of Limehouse, who was but it is possible that he may in the East India Company's service be the John Davis, "son of William Davis of Gracious Street, London, just come from Spain," who was imprisoned in March 1619 for refusing to take the Oath of Allegiance and for affirming the Pope See to be the sole authority in ecclesiastical matters in England. Calendar of State Papers., Domestic Series., 1619 1623, under dates 22 March 1619 and 29 July 1625.
is
Bayonne.
neither
14
to Sanlucar de
and
att length
was
left
by him
att
There
went to Ayamonte*, soe over to Castro Mareen and Tavila^ in Portugall, and back againe to
I
I
lived
in that
I
attained
the
Spanish Tongue.
From
Sevill
tyme came to
London
I
againe'' with
my
first
att
home
fifteen dayes,
was sent
away with Mr. James Wiche", bound for Constantinople in the Shipp the Royall Mmxhmtt, Captaine Josua Downinge^", with whome went passengers Mr. James Wiche aforesaid
my
^ At the mouth of the Guadalquiver, near Cadiz. Compare The Voyage to Cadiz hi 1625, by John Glanville, pp. 6, 35, "The Bay of St. Mary Port near the Bay of Cadiz was a Cadiz or St. Lucas lowe shore and more apt for landing of Men then anie place about
St.
Lucar."
^ ^
towne in Spayne." Author's Index. any contemporary mention of these inParker's name is omitted in the IBritish Museum copy of dividuals. Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286. * A fortress at the mouth of the Guadiana. ^ Castro Marin and Tavira are close to Ayamonte, on the Portuguese side of the river. " Probably a copyist's error. The author has Sevill in his I?idex
I
have
failed to find
and elsewhere
''
in the
MS.
^
In January, 1617.
See ante,
p. 13,
note
5.
Wyche, a prosperous
London merchant, who had twelve sons and died in 162 1. For an account of the family, and the author's connection with Richard, George, James and Edward Wyche, see Appendix B. For the Sailing Orders of the Royall Marchant, together with a short account of Captain Joshua Downing, see Appe?uiix C. 11 The Garways or Garraways were well-known Levantine and
I''
East Indian traders, who gave their name to Garraway's Coffee-house in Change Alley, one of the most famous in the i8th century. James Garraway was probably one of the seventeen children of Sir William Garway or Garraway and brother to Anthony Garraway, who was
15
with five or
In our Passage
Gibraltare^
Mallaga^
Alicante",
Constantinople in 1617. It is likely, too, that James to Constantinople in connection with the affairs of Arthur Garraway. This individual was imprisoned during the reign of Ahmad I., and the English ambassadors, Sir Paul Pindar and Sir Thomas Roe both made unsuccessful attempts to recover what had been extorted from him by the Turks. In July, 1617, Pindar wrote to the Levant Company, and "amplie related the ill successe he had had in the prosecuting the suite for the restitution of Mr. Arthur Garrawayes moneys obtaining nothing but delayes, and in the end no Performance." Sir Henry Garraway, the eldest son of Sir William Garraway, a Liveryman of the Drapers' Company, became Lord Mayor of London, and was a Director of the Levant, the East India and the Muscovy Companies. His career is given at length in the Dictionary of National Biography. Two other sons of Sir William Garraway, Thomas (who died in 1625) and WiUiam were among the earliest "Adventurers" in East India Stock. Thomas Garway was said to be the original proprietor of Garraway's Coffee-house, and, under the designation of "tobacconist and coffeeman," was the first retailer of tea. Garraway's Coffee-house, which was twice rebuilt, was demolished in 1873. See The Times 28 Jan. and 20 March 1873.
residing in
member
India
2
Probably a relative of Mr (afterwards Sir) Morris Abbott, a of the Levant Company and the owner of the Royall Marchant. Sir Morris Abbott was elected Governor of the East
^
Company
in
March
1624.
He
died in 1644.
In July, 1620, Roger Vivian was made free of the Levant Company {State Papers., Foreign Archives^ vol. 148, p. 43 a), and in 1633 Charles Vivian was admitted a "sworn free brother of the East India Company, bound to Sir Morris Abbott" {Calendar of State
Papers., Colonial.,
^
East
Indies, 1630
1634,
p. 506).
Turkey merchants
"
Company.
* "Gibraltar: a town at the straights Mouth." Author's Ittdex. In 1599, Gibraltar is called Jebbatore by Dallam. See Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 11. In the British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286, the head-line from this place until the arrival at Scanderoon is, " Sundry Ports and Places in the Straights." ^ " Mallaga, a seaport, Within the straights mouth." Author's Index. Malaga is called "grand Malligan" by Dallam. See Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 12. ^
''
Author's Index.
"Mayorca, a Citty and an Hand." Author's Index. Compare The Journal of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., 811, fol. 45, "In our way to Messena...we past the iselands of Maj and Minyorke and by the
Iseland of Sardna."
l6
Alcadia
Minorca^ Messena^ on
Scio''
Scicillia^,
Zante, Scan-
darone or Allexandretta,
Constantinople, Att
all
joyfully
and
welcomed, our
full
St.
have bene
by the Comeinge
our fleete
of the
Kinge of
Spaines
Armade amonge
the
night tyme,
Wee
us,
the
Straights
thirty
God bee
in this
wee parted
I
friends.
our passage as
remember
Leghorne
that
I
is
Stories,
Landskipps^
etc.,
Alcadia
is,
however, in Majorca.
For a description of Messina in 1669, see The Journal of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., 811, fol. 46. ^ Dallam has " Sissillia." See Early Voyages in the Levaiit, p. 17. * " Scio, a towne and an Hand in the Archepielago." Author's Index. An English Consul was established at Scio (or Chios) as early as 1513. For a description of Scio in 1616, see Lithgow,
2
Travels,
^
HarL MS.,
2286.
Instead of "a terrible broyle" the passage in the Harl. MS., 2286, reads, " a verie terrible and bloodie sea fight."
''
The Turkish
called,
pirates, or Barbary Corsairs, as they were generally were the great obstacles to trade in the Mediterranean at this
period.
*
skip are
The contemporary spelling of landscape, but lantskip and landmore common than landskipp. See Murray, Oxford English
17
and
is
near
Plorence.
Strombolo, neare
Scicillia, is
fire
by day
that
it
carrieth
Landscape. The description of the " Landskipps " at omitted in the British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286.
Dictionary^
s.v.
Leghorn
is
^ Compare Struys, Voyages and Travels, ed. 1684, p. 67, " Leghorn... is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy... The City on the out-side appears more magnificent than it is indeed inwardly The Frontispieces, as well of Privat as Public Buildings being plaisterd, upon which are painted Sea-fights, Histories and Landschap." Struys visited Leghorn in 1657. Compare also JoiirnaU of a Voyage thro^ France and Italy (in 1658), Sloa7ie MS., 2142, fol. 4, " Livorne is a very fine and handsome towne, though the ill lives of the Inhabitants doe some what defame it. It hath a very fine Port belonging to it, it being all the Port townes belonging to the great Duke of Florence, where reside many English Marchants and men of other Nations which is the cause that it is of the greatest repute for trade of any Port towne in Europe, It is a place of great strength wherein is alwayes a Governour and Garrison to defend the place."
2 Pratique. Permission granted to the crew and passengers of a ship to enter a port, to land, trade, etc. See later on, in Relation II., where the custom is fully described by the author on his arrival at Spalato. Compare Dallam's account of "proticke," Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 19 In 1669, Richard Bell and John Campbell were detained in the Lazaretto at Leghorn for forty days The Jourtial
;
of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., 811. ^ Compare Lithgow, Painefull Peregrinations, ed. 1632, p. 398, "We fetched up the little He of Strombolo [in 1616]: This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse, growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a Chimney, arriseth a
continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting foorth great stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate dare Coast or
boord
it."
In 1628, the Rev. Charles Robson thus describes Stromboli, in his News fi'oni Aleppo, p. 10, "At last we passed by a litle Island some five Leagues before we come to Sicilia, which belcheth out continually huge flames of fire. I did see it vomit up eight times, while we sayled in sight of it the name of this Island is Strumbola,"Compare also The fournal of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., Srr, "We weere becalmed amonge the burninge Iselands for two dayes. They are calld, i Strumbelo, 2 Vulcan, 3 Vulcanello * * * within
:
M.
l8
The Stones
into
the
Sea
fleete^
on the water
is
stones, of
which there
much ground
as to Till
theire
This
three or four leagues six or seven little Iselands not Inhabbited, which smooke, but that cald Vulcan most, and now [in 1669] burnes more furiosi)' then Strumbeloe did, which at this day flames much most visible in the night."
1
Old form of
" float."
Compare Shakespeare, Winter's Tale, iv. 3. 40, " Three pound of Sugar, four pound of Currence, Rice." Gainsford, Glo?y of Etiglattd, p. 40, has, "Xante, an Hand famous for Vallies yeelding 4000 tunne of
2
Gorans every yeere." ^ For Dallam's description of Zante in 1599, and for Covel's remarks (in 1670) on the prevalence of earthquakes in the island, see Early Voyages in the Levant, pp. 18 and 126. The quaint description of Lithgow, who visited Zante in 1610, is worth quoting, Painefull Peregrinations, p. 64, " Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there * * * It hath a Gitty * * * subject yearely to fearefuU Earthquakes, especially in the moneths of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses and themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all * * * This He produceth good store of Rasini de Gorintho, commonly called Gurrants * * The llanders are Greekes, but the Signory a kind of subtile people, and great dissemblers thereof belongeth to Venice * * * And if it were not for that great provision of corne, which are dayly transported from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the Inhabitants in short time would famish. It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little lie maketh yearely * * * onely of Gurrants 160000 Ghickins, paying yearely over and above for Gustome 22000 Piasters, every Ghicken of gold being nine shillings English, and every Piaster being white money sixe A rent or summe of mony which these silly llanders could shillings. never affoord * * * if it were not here in England of late for some Liquorous lips, who forsooth can hardly digest Bread, Pasties, Broth, and (verbi gratia) bag puddings without these currants * * * There is no other nation save this thus addicted to that miserable lie." George Sandys, who also visited Zante in 16 10, says, Travels,
;
ed. 1673, p. 4, that the islanders traded especially with England and Holland, that they paid yearly " unto St. Mark 48000 Dollars for Gustoms and other Duties," besides " their private gettings, amounting to 150000 Zechins * * * They sow little Gorn, as imploying their grounds to better advantages, for which reason they sometimes suffer, being ready to starve, when the weather continueth for a season tempestuous, and that they cannot fetch their provision, which they
I9
much
to
Scandarone
or
Allexandretta
the
Sea
It
port
is
of
distant.
very
unwholsome by reason of the huge high hills hindringe the approach of the Sunne Beames, untill nine or ten a Clocke in the morning, lyeinge in a great Marsh full of boggs, foggs and Froggs^ the Topps of the Mountaines continually covered with Snowe, aboundinge with wild
beasts, as Lyons,
Wylde
Of
have as well of Flesh as of Corn, from Morea, being ten leagues distant." Struys, who visited Zante in 1658, remarks, Voyages and Travels, p. 98, " Sante or Xante * * * on this Island is a City containing about
4000 Houses, or rather Cottages, without chimneys, that they say, is by reason of frequent Earthquakes, of which they are in daily jeopardy."
1
Company had
outlet of the commerce of Aleppo. All the ships trading to the touched at Scanderoon before going on to Constantinople.
^
East
Scanderoon
in
1599,
Early
frotn
Voyages in
pp.
28,
30.
Compare
also
News
Aleppo
arrived in safety at Alexandretta alias Scanderone, which we found full of the carcases of houses, not one house in it. It having been a litle before sackt by the Turkish Pyrats. The unwholesomest place in the world to live in, by reason of the grosse fogges that both discend from the high mountaines, and ascend from the moorish [marshy] valleys. The hills about it are so high, that till ten of the clocke in the morning the Sunne seldome or never peepeth over them." Among Mundy's notes on the extracts from Blount's Voyage into the Levant^ most of which are given in Appendix A, is the following in connection with Scanderoon " Within eight or ten leagues of Alexandretta Sir Weaker Rawleigh placeth the citty of Issus, where Darius King of Persia was overthrowne by Alexander Major, his great and pompous (although unwarlike) army routed, his Wife and Children taken prisoners; see the battaile of Issus, Sir W. R. p. 177: hb. 4 [p. 147 of ed. 1634]. In dicto Booke, lib. 4: p. 175 [p. 145 of ed. 1634], mention is made of the straights of Cilicia where Alexander passed into Persia, was questionless through some part of those mighty high hills near Alexandretta, continually covered with snow, and one overtopping another in height, being part of the Mountaine Taurus, which reckned to begin heere, and the ridge of hills running through divers countries, as India, are named Caucasus, beeing called diversly according to the countries it passeth through in the Scripture they are called Ararat."
(in
1628),
11,
"Wee
20
great store of
Swanns Wild fowle, haveing seene a aboundance of Fish. Betweene Scandarone and Constantinople^ wee passed among the fruitefull Islands of Archipielago, and soe upp
of wild
the Hellespont, in which on the right hand,
place
stood.
This Hellespont,
now
any thinge
could
one way,
vizt.
The mouth
which
small
Pillar,
or
Rocke, on
standeth
Marble
saith),
Pompey's
In the British
Museum copy
this point
2 All the 17th century travellers in the East write at length on the ruins of Troy. See Dallam, Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 49, Lithgovv's Painefiill Peregrinations, pp. 122 125, Delia Valle, Voyages, ed. 1664, vol. i. p. 12 f. Compare also Struys, Voyages and Travels, p. 78, " Wee sailed into the River of Constantinople, where we found the Sea-Armade of Venice at Troy, which is the place and remnant of the famous Troy so much read of in the Poets of old, although it is hard to judge where the Town has verily stood. All that is to be seen is a Gate which is built of marble, and seems to be exceeding ancient, and a small village with the Foundations of a wall that encompasse the Town seven times."
i.e.
the
Dardanelles.
Compare Sandys,
Travels,
ed.
1673,
P-
J9f-
* Compare Lithgow's description of Pompey's Pillar, Pai7iefull Peregrinations, p. 140, " I went to the blacke Sea... where I saw Pompeyes and Pillar of Marble, standing neere the shoare, upon a rocky Hand not far from thence, is a Lanthorne higher then any Steeple, whereon there is a panne full of liquor, that burneth every night to give warning unto ships how neare they come to the shore." For other descriptions of the pillar, see Sandys, Travels, p. 31^ Gainsford, Glory of England, pp. 181, 191, Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 34 f, Tournefort, Voyage into the Levant, vol. ii. p. 113. When Hobhouse visited Constantinople in 1809 1810, there was nothing left of Pompey's Pillar but "a fragment of white marble a Httle more than five feet high and nine feet and a half in circumHobhouse, Journey through Albania, vol. ii. pp. 869, 870. ference."
;
21
To
this place
Merchants resorted
there.
for
is
recreation,
my
selfe
The Sea
accompted
250 leagues
long
and
Con-
Cittie of
Sultan Achmatt
died att
my
whoe within
three monethes^
upon
travellers.
full attention from all the early See the various descriptions quoted by the author in his Supplement to this Relation, added in 1649 1650. See also Busbequius, Travels into Turkey (in 1555), ed. 1744, pp. 46 54; Lithgow,
1
Painefiill Peregrinations, pp. 132 139; Delia Valle, Voyages, ed. 1664, vol. i. pp. 24 45 ; Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, ed. 1687, Part i. pp. 19 28.
first
^ *
On
the 22nd
November,
1617.
Mustafa, Ahmad's weak-minded brother, whom he had kept in Compare Blount's account of this event, captivity for fourteen years. Voyage into the Levant, p. I25f, "Now as all bodyes, though never so strong, are subject to blowes from without, and diseases within so is this Empyre obnoxious to the Persian abroad, and errors of Government at home; one hath hapned of late years, which hath had pernicious disorder that was the mercy of Achmat, to his brother Mustapha, whom he seeing a book-man, and weake, did not destroy; and left a subject for this was contrary to the Othoman custome ambition, and disgust, which rather then be without, would make one of waxe if it were possible much more dangerous was it to leave one of colourable pretext, where there was so insolent a faction as the They forthwith served their turne hereof, who else had Janyzaries not beene provided of a King, and so forced to endure Osman, for feare of destroying that line, in whose defect, they fall under the This gave them occasion to petit Tartars, which they abhorre. taste the Blood Royall, whose reverence can never be restored, without abolishing the order of Janizaries, which hath been the Sword hand of the Empire."
: ;
Here the author notes, "Three grand Signiors in three monethes." Turkish bdshd, a grandee. Mustafa was again imprisoned, after a reign of three months, by the Janissaries, who revolted in favour of Osman. In 1622, he was once more dragged from prison, and for fifteen months was the nominal ruler, when he was again deposed in
^ ^
favour of
Amurath
IV.
(Murad
IV.).
22
whoe
lived att
my
comeinge away.
Merchants passe verie
CommoProvision,
wearinge our
owne Countrie
fruite
I
and
Wyne
Heere
after
^ Compare Grimston's Translation of Baudier's History of the Iniperiall Estate of the Gra7id Seigneurs^ p. 168 f. "Achmat ended his life and Raigne in the yeare 161 7, he left two young sonnes, Osman and Amurath He knew by experience that the weight of such a Crowne could not be borne by a Childe, and that the absolute government of the Turkish Monarchie required a man He called to the succession of his Scepter, his brother Mustapha who had beene fourteene yeares a Prisoner in his Serrail, and made him to taste this
; :
power
to
command
the greatest
Estate upon the Earth. But the great rigour of his command, and the extravagances of his inconstant humour, made him odious to the Captaine Bassa he gained the other three \^pashas\ who drew the Souldiers and some great men unto their party, they unthroned him, put him into his Prison, and set up Osman sonne to his brother Achmat, This example was in our daye but that which followeth is so fresh, as the newes hereof came when I was labouring about this worke. Osman not well satisfied with the affection of the Janizaries (who are the sinewes of his Estate) and disliking some of the four Bassa's, had an intent to change the Seat of his Empire to Cairo, and to abandon Constantinople he prepares himselfe, gathers together as much Treasures as hee could, and covers his designe, with the pretext of a Pilgrimage to Meque, where he said his intent was to accomplish a vow, and to make as great a gift as ever Prince made unto a Temple of what Religion soever. When as he had managed his enterprize unto the day of his departure, when as his Galleyes were readie, and the Bassa of Caire come with an Armie to receive him; the Janizaries were advertised, they runne to the Serrail with the Consent of the Aga, the people are moved, the Captaine Bassa stirres them up, they take the Sultan in his Chamber, kill some great Men in his presence, dragge him into a prison, and there make him to suffer a shameful! death by the hands of an Executioner, having drawne Mustapha his Uncle out of Prison again, and crowned him the second time Soveraigne Sultan of the Turkish Empire." The news of the deposition of Mustafa and also "that Sultan Ossaman eldest sonne of Sultan Achomet Cham, the grand Signior deceased was elected in his stead " was forwarded to the Levant Company by Sir Paul Pindar and was read in Court on the 15th April, 1618. State Papers^ Foreigft Archives, vol. 148, p. 11.
;
:
a suburb
resided, for the most part, in Pera, of Constantinople, where was the house of the English
ambassador.
23
in
my
tyme of
once
in
Pestilence,
which Customarily
five att the
visitts
the Cittie
fowre yeares, or
most I
Soe remained
his placed
In 1618.
James Wyche.
See
p. 14.
Pai7iefull Peregrinations^ p. 138, " Constantinople. ..is subject. ..to divers Earth quakes. ..And commonly every third yeare the pestilence is exceeding great in that City." Compare also Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. 49 f.
3
Compare Lithgow,
Lawrence Greene, Senior, was a director of the Levant Comat this time, and is frequently mentioned in the Court Minutes. On the 2nd Aug., 1616, it was ordered that ^30 be advanced to Mr Greene, as agent for Mr King, the Company's chaplain at Constantinople. Again, on the 3rd May, 1621, "One Mr. Greene" undertakes to make good any loss to the Company in case the
*
pany
chaplain, Mr Cadwallader Salisbury, should die before the ^50 advanced him should be due to him. Pearson, Chaplains of the Levant Company^ p. 47. In 1 62 1, Lawrence Greene and Richard James were elected members of a Committee of the East India Company. They "deThey, sired to be spared, but the Court would in no wise consent." however, only served for three months. Lawrence Greene died before See Calendar of State Papers^ Colonial, East Indies, 161 7 1634. The Lawrence Greene whom 1621, pp. 435, 468; 1630 1634, p. 486. Mundy served for two years, and whom he left at Constantinople in 1620 (see beginning of Relatio7t II.), was probably a son of the Director and identical with the Lawrence Greene, a merchant, who, in
and provisions
64 1, petitioned for a warrant for the transport of twenty passengers to Virginia, where he had twenty-four servants. Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574 1660, p. 322. For further
1
man, see Relation II. ^ Sir Paul Pindar had held the office of Ambassador at ConIn September, 1616, he had written to the stantinople since 161 1. Court of the Levant Company, desiring to be recalled on account of his health, but was urged to remain a year or two longer, with increased allowances. To this he agreed in a letter dated 21st March, For further particulars of Pindar, during his embassy, see 161 7.
particulars of this
Appendix D. ^ Sir John Eyre was appointed to fill Pindar's place in 1619 and was recalled in 1621. For details of his appointment and his unpopularity, together with a short notice of the Levant time of Mundy's connection with it, see Appendix D.
''
Company
at the
The British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286, ends here, and has neither "Computation" of miles nor "Supplement"
to Relation
I.
24
from
the other.
Miles
From
Penrin to Roane
in
Normandie
is
.
is
accompted
.
.
600 960
From
is
accompted
. . .
From Penrin to London by Sea is From London to Cadiz miles 1450 and backe
. .
.
400
2900
againe
is
From London
againe
is
.
to
.3180
,
is
1430
60
miles 78 from thence
is
24 miles
. .
102
From Tavila backe to Sevill is From Sevill backe to London is From London to Allexandretta the
.
102
1490
very bottome
.
of the Straights
is
4380
1350
From
Allexandretta
Constantinople
to
is
,
ac.
From
Constantinople to Pompeus
is
Pillar^ att
the
....
totalis
to
accompted Miles
.
40
17394
Summa
Author's Supplement'^
Miles
I.
Relation
recalled to
The aforegoinge Relation is only some Voyages etts. memorye since my first settinge forth, Anno
1608, untill
my
departure,
Anno
1620.
to Relation I. was added by Mundy when he revised his MS. in 1649 1650. It is in his own writing and is on different paper from the rest of the Rawliiison copy.
2
The
25
remayned three
untill
my
is
but course
of
and Coursary.
that
Citty,
Therefore,
for
satisfaction
those
great
desire
better
Information
the
concerning
Imperiall
that
the
Serragho, with
their
Seate
titles,
of the
grand Signeurs,
exercises,
Habitations, hves,
quallities,
worcks,
revenues.
etts..
Habit, discent,
officers,
ceremonies,
favourites,
let
Wives, concubines,
Religion,
Judgements,
power,
governement
and
tyranny
them
french
peruse the
Gran Signeur, exactly and elaborately written by Signeur Michael Baudier of Languedock,
translated
by Mr. Edward Grymestone, printed in London Anno It mentions untill yong Amurath the 4th. who 1635 ^
reigned A. 1626^.
Among
containing in
about
of the
water
not
reckoned
;
two
thousand
Mosquees
forty.
or turkish
Churches
the
Churches
The
francks
The
1 The full title of the book is. The History of the Imperiall Estate of the Grand Seigtteurs : Their Habitations^ Lives^ Titles^ Qualities^ Exercises^ Workes, Revenues, Habit, Discent, Cereni07iies, Alagnificence, fudgements, Officers, Favourites, Religion, Power, Uovernment and Tyranny. Translated out of French by E. G., S. A. [Edward Grimston, Sergeant at Arms], London, 1635.
quote Grimston in his own fashion The extracts, as they stand in with emendations and omissions. the English translation of the work, will be found, at length, in Appendix E.
^
of
to
Murad
or
Amurath
IV.
is
1623.
26
The
amounts
(a
1000^).
tribut called
Chequeene^
for
eleven
chequeene
mistake
conceive,
milliones for
1 1
Mille, in french,
Citty pay
The
description
of the Citty
is
from
p.
i8^
treasure, officers,
Concerning the
etts.,
it
serraglio,
p.
weomen,
foUoweth from
Allsoe in
some
relation of the
Allsoe
whome
above
largely
referr
you
for a
written.
their
As concerning
For the
Religion,
is
handled somwhat
by Mr. Purchase
in his pilgrimage^.
where
their
most
^
officers
and Nationes
are
distinguished
by
Caratch (Arab. khardj\ the tribute or poll-tax levied by the their Christian subjects. Compare Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant, ed. 1696, p. 281, "The Greeks... are forc'd to pay a yearly Tribute, call'd the Carache...a perpetual Poll-tax, and exceeds not four Piasters a Man." ^ Sequin. A gold coin of Italy, the Venetian zecchino, worth from about seven shillings to nine shillings and sixpence English money. See Hobson-Jobson, s.v. Chick. ^ The words within brackets are an interpolation by Mundy.
Turks on
* ^
i.e.
of Grimston's book.
The author
Gran
Weomen
the
Signior."
"
of the
Military
Force.,
1st ed.
''
Courts of Justice,
1615.
p.
and Commerce,
etc. etc.
By George Sandys,
On
24 of ed. 1673.
See Appendix
A for full
title.
325
His
Pilgrimage.
2/
particuler,
8,
have a
Httle
Anno
161
although
no great
art
therein, yet
enough
to
satisfie
concerning
that Matter^
An Asper is about a halfe penny, for about 90, or sometimes 100 make a Ryall of eight or a Reichs Doller^;
a chequeene worth about
2d. February, 1649/50.
Ss.
English^.
[Signed] Penrin,
This
Con-
Hath
part
triangle of a wall.
The
first
some
the Seraglio to
way
way
Pera.
The
third
overlooketh
the feilds
hath a double
Adrianopli,
gates,
as
1 It is a matter for regret that this " Httle booke" was not preserved with the author's MS. 2 Fr. aspre, It. aspero, lit. white money.' A small silver Turkish coin, of which 120 are reckoned to the piastre, now only a money of account. Murray, Oxford English Dictionary.
'
full
See note 2 on p. 26. For the complete title of Gainsford's Gloty of England and the and correct rendering of the passages abstracted by Mundy, see
Gainsford has " majesticall."
Appendix E.
^ 6
Voyage
p.
For the twenty-five gates at Constantinople, see Sanderson's in Purchas His Pilgrimes, ed. 1625, Part ll. Book ix.
1629.
::
28
walles
beautified
with
square
towers of hard
miles in circumference
within.
The
Courts
Seraglio
is
closing as
:
much ground
divers
James parcke
which
is
Large
indeed
Artillerie,
manner of
Structures,
seeme
severall pallaces,
among whome
there
one called
and
rarest presence
that ever
beheld, for
it
is
a side
walk
of
in
Venice, and in
Roomes
with
trees^
are
silver,
curiously
all
guilt over
most
Jasper
and delicate
a bird cage
beast taken
stones, that
in
am perswaded
Under the
there
not such
the world.
which
a monstrous
Nilus
Dolphins
Sometimes they have Crocodiles and Rinoceros. Within are Roebucks, white partridges, and turtles, the bird of
1
Kiosk.
villa,
Compare Sanderson's Voyage in Pu?'chas His Pilgrinies^ Part II. Book ix. p. 1626, "Sultan Morat [Murad, Amurathj...hath built... two faire Lodgings, or as we may say Banqueting Houses,
portico.
a central building.
across the opening of the fireplaces.
Beams
29
many
The walkes
and
trees
almonds,
like,
olive,
pomeshould
order
but
it
in
them
large, or ripen
proper kinds.
Citty
is
The
and
The
Bisisteene^ Bashaws
tombes
were a storehouse of
read, that Constantine
all
magnificent worckes
And when
as
it
were unplumed
in
the world,
my
Cheifest structures
now
Bashaws
houses, the
mosques
of
or temples,
among whome
the
the Sophia,
and
fabriques
great
or
delight,
;
Patriarchs
;
house
certaine
pallace
;
balneas
bathes
aquaducts
Constantines
you
may adde
varietie
fire
many tymes
it
divided
The
1 i.e. the pistacia terebinthns, which yields the turpentine as Cyprus Turpentine, Chian Turpentine and Scio Turpentine.
known
30
The
Thus
last
is
a towne in Asia
called Scutaro.
I
confesse,
if
at once, as
one
would
equall,
if
spaciousnesse of ground,
Some monuments
and howses
for here
is
way neare my
true
recourse,
gracious
religion,
secure
Or any
indeed
:
thing wherein
Noble
citty
is
made
glorious
his
book
in
Anno
1607.
Page 35
lib.
i.^
Of Constantinople^ and
but for
is
somewhat
my owne
I
observation
said.
as elce where
have
Only
I
can remember,
viz.
Imprimis.
That once
This last remark is Mundy's own note. Preceding these remarks Mundy quotes extracts from Sandys' Travels. These he gives, for the most part, correctly, without any notes or interpolations of his own. In many cases, however, he breaks off in the middle of a sentence and gives no hint of the omission. Therefore, for the sake of clearness, the passages extracted by Mundy have been corrected from Sandys' work, and will be found, with the quotations from Grimston and Gainsford, in Appendix E. Following the extracts from Sandys, is a double-page map of
^
Turkey and Arabia, with Mundy's sea and land routes marked in lines. Some of the places are also lettered in red, and remarks under these letters are found on the reverse of the second leaf. The map bears no name or date, but contains the portrait of
red dotted
Sultan
Muhammad
III.
(1596
1603).
On
first
February, 1650),
own comments on Constantinople (added in which are now given in the text. The notes on the
reverse of the second leaf of the map have no connection with the story of the author's Travels, and, consequently, have not been
printed.
^
The author
See
Sandys.
alludes to his extracts from Grimston, Gainsford ante, pp. 25 30, and Appendix E.
and
3I
West
Haven
to the Hellespont),
from each
other.
conceaved them
treble,
accompting the
compleated with
1 The history of this suburb, situated between Constantinople and Galata, is given by Evhya Efendi, who was born in 161 1, as follows " In the time of the infidels, Kasim Pasha was a monastery called Aya Longa, but Muhammad II. converted it into a Moslem burying ground.... The town of Constantinople growing too narrow for the throngs of people, the great monarch Sultan Sulaiman commanded his vazir, the conqueror of Napoli (di Romania), Kasim Pasha,... to build the suburb called now {circ. 1631] Kasim-pasha. It is in the jurisdiction of the Maula of Galata There are one thousand and Travels in Europe etc. in eighty-five walled houses with gardens." Eng. trans, ed. 1834, the Seveftteejtth Century, by Evliya Efendi. vol. I. Part ii. p. 43. The description is continued up to p. 49. Compare Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, ed. 1687, Part i. p. 27, ^' Cassum-pasha, which seems to be a great Village there by the water side is the Arsenal... from thence you come to Galata, separated from Cassumpasha only by the burying places that are betwixt them."
:
See also Le Bruyn, Voyage au Levant, ed. 1725, vol. i. p. 171. For a description of Constantinople in 1604, see De Bauveau, Relation jour7taliere du Voyage du Levant, pp. 37 75. 2 The Seven Towers, Yedi Kiile, at the S.W. angle of ConstantiThree of the towers have disappeared, and the whole building nople. is now in a ruinous condition. It was once a state prison.
the following allusions to this building: fort that is fortified with seven Towers, called by the Turkes Jadicule... where a garrison of souldiers is kept." Moryson, Ltinerary, ed. 161 7, p. 263. 1600. "Yedi Cula. The gate of the seven Toures for so many there are together, neere thereunto, built of the Ottoman Princes, where it is said, they have in time past put their Treasure." Sanderson's Voyage in Pitrchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1629. " Upon the west corner of the Citty there is a strong 1616. Fortresse, fortified with seaven great Towers, and well furnished with munition, called by Turkes Jadileke." Lithgow, Painefull Peregrinations, p. 135. "The Seven Towers, now a prison for persons of quality... 1701. but antiently the Porta Janicula of Constantinople." Chishull, Travels in Turkey, p. 48. 1810. "Although four only of the Seven Towers have remained entire... the fortress still retains the names of Efta-Coulades in the Greek and Yedi-Kouleler in the Turkish language, both of them significant of the former number of its conspicuous bulwarks." Hobhouse, Jour7iey through Albania, vol. ii. pp. 938 940. See also Sandys' description in Appendix E Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 43 Thdvenot, Travels i?ito the Levant, Part i. p. 20.
1596.
Compare
"A
32
saw an arche
:
That They say on this occasion or dambd upp. was the gate by which the Citty was entred and Won from the Christains, and that there is a Prophecy among-
made
it
it
shall
bee
lost
Secondly:
Achmet,
^ The author was right in his first surmise. The Hne of defence was a triple wall with a double row of towers. The walls were erected by Constantine the Great, and were partly rebuilt by Theodosius and
his successors.
the description by Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, p. 11 f, who says (in 1634), "This triple row of walls He adds, however, still exists, and is strengthened by 1225 towers." that the masonry had fallen into such decay that " waggons might be anywhere driven through the walls." These ravages were repaired
vol.
I.
Compare
Part
i.
in '1635.
For the accounts of other travellers, see Sandys' Travels in Appendix E Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 25 Th^venot, Travels
; ;
into the Levant, Part i. p. 20; Tournefort, Voyage i?ito the Levant, ed. 1718, vol. i. p. 349; Hobhouse, Journey through Albania, vol. ii.
PP-
936937The Turks gained an entrance into Constantinople, in 1453, by the Wooden or Circus Gate, which had been walled up for two centuries previously, on account of an ancient prophecy, and reopened
2
during the siege for the purposes of a sortie. It was, however, the Golden Gate that was walled up by the invaders, in consequence of a superstition that through it the future conquerors of Constantinople should enter the city. For a similar Turkish prophecy with regard to the Golden Gate at Jerusalem, see Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book viii.
ch. 8, p. 1324.
At-maidan. Compare the description of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgri7nes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627: "The greatest and most famous spacious place of the Citie is that which in time past of the Greeks was called Hippodromo, and now of the Turkes Atmaidan, which is as much as to say, both in the one and the other Language, running of Horses, for there they did and doe runne them. In time past it hath been much more greate, but the many Palaces (that divers great men in processe of time have built) hath lessened it." Compare also Grimston's description, History of the Iniperiall "The Hippodrome is a great State of the Grand Seignieurs, p. 76: place in Constantinople, about fourscore fathome long and fortie broad, artificially built upon a great number of Pillars and Arches which support it strongly, and keepe it from drowning by the waters of the Sea, which run under it, by certaine Channels which give it It was the ancient mannage and course for Horses as the entry: word doth signifie....This place is called at this day Atmeidon, that is to say Mannage." For other accounts of the At-maiddn, see the extract from Sandys'
^
1602,
33
:
Mosques or Church Where among other monuments I remember I saw three brasen allsoe another Hke a piraserpents wreathed together^
pomp
to
one of
his
midis^.
Travels in Appendix E. See also Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. 37 f. Tournefort, Voyage Thevenot, T?-avels hito the Levant^ Part i. p. 22 Le Bruyn, Voyage au Levant^ vol. i. ijito the Levajtt, vol. i. p. 361 p. 158; Hobhouse, yi9Z/r;z^ through Albania^ vol. ii. p. 950 f.
; ;
^ The column of the Three Serpents, said to have formerly supported the golden tripod of the priestess of Apollo of Delphi. Compare the following accounts of this column "This Piazza hath also another Pillar... of Brasse made 1594. with marvellous art in forme of three Serpents wreathed together with their mouthes upwards, which is said, was made to inchant the SerVoyage of John Sanderson pents that on a time molested the Citie." in Picrchas His Pilgrinies, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627. "A bronze column composed of three Serpents of the same 161 5. metal interlaced with each other, whose three heads extend beyond the summit forming, instead of a capital, a regular triangle. The tales of the old wives aver that this column was made by a Magician, and that by the enchantment with which he endowed it, the town was freed from the number of Serpents which then infested it." Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. 38 (translated from the French). "On the wonderful Talismans within and without Kostan1634. A sage named Surendeh, who flourished tineh... Seventeenth talisman. in the days of error, under King Puzentin, set up a brazen image of a triple-headed dragon {azhderhd) in the Atmaidan, in order to destroy and all serpents, lizards, scorpions, and such like poisonous reptiles not a poisonous beast was there in the whole of Makedoniyyah. It has now the form of a twisted serpent, measuring ten cubits above and as many below the ground. It remained thus buried in mud and earth from the building of Sultan Ahmed's mosque, but uninjured, till Selim II,, surnamed the drunken, passing by on horseback, knocked off with his mace the lower jaw of that head of the dragon which looks to the west. Serpents then made their appearance on the western side of the city, and since that time have become common in every part of it. If, moreover, the remaining heads should be destroyed, Istambol will be completely eaten up with vermin." Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe^ vol. I. Part i. p. 19. Tournefort, Voyage into the Levant, vol. i. p. 380, says that the two remaining heads were taken
:
away
in 1700.
See also Sandys' Travels, ed. 1673, P- 27; Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, ed. 1687, Part i. p. 22 Chishull, Travels in Turkey, p. 41 Le Bruyn, Voyage au Levattt, vol. i. p. 158. ^ The author refers to the Egyptian Pyramid set up by Constantine Compare the description of the to mark the goal in the chariot races. column by Tournefort, Voyage into the Levant, vol. i. p. 379 " TheObelisk of Granate or Thebaick Stone is still in the Atmeidan it is; a four-corner'd Pyramid, of one single Piece, about fifty foot high, terminating in a Point, charg'd with Hieroglyphicks, now unintelligible."' See also for other accounts, Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas
;
34
farre
I
as
Weomen^ and
there
saw
Fourthly
It stoode (as
take
saw another High columne of marbled it) towards the Haven, bound about
Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627 Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. Thevenot, Travels into the Levant^ Part i. p. 22 Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant^ p. 151; Le Bruyn, Voyages au Levant^ vol. i. pp. 158 Chishull, Travels in Turkey^ p. 40. 159
His
p.
Pilgrinies,
;
y]
Avret-bazar, about one mile west of the Hippodrome. The district is still so called. "A large and spacious place... towards the Port of Selimbria, called by the Turkes Aurat Bazar (which is as much to say, the market place of women, for thither they come to sell their Workes and Wares)." Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgrimes,
^
Book
^
ix.
base.
The
pedestal
of the Historical Column by Busbequius (Busbek) in 1555, Ti'avels into Turkey^ p. 49, "Constantinople doth gratifie us with the Sight of two memorable Pillars; One... in the
Forum, called by the Turks, Aurat-basar, i.e. The Womens Court, wherein, from Bottom to Top, is engraven the History of a certain Expedition of one Arcadius, who built it, and whose Statue, for a long And yet it may rather be called a time, stood on the Top of it. Stair-case, than a Pillar, because it goes winding up like a Pair of
Stairs."
Evliya Efendi
in his
vol. I. Part i. p. 16, gives the following interesting legend in connection with the Historical Column " First talisman. In the Avret-Bazari (female slavemarket), there is a lofty column (the pillar of Arcadius) of white marble, inside of which there is a winding staircase. On the outside of it, figures of the soldiers of various nations, Hindustanies, Kurdistanies, and Multanies, whom Yanko ibn Madiyan vanquished, were sculptured by his command and on the summit of it there was anciently a fairy-cheeked female figure of one of the beauties of the age, which once a year gave a sound, on which many hundred thousand kinds of birds, after flying round and round the image, fell down to the earth, and being caught by the people of Rum (Romelia), provided them with an abundant meal. Afterwards, in the age of Kostantin, the monks placed bells on the top of it, in order to give an alarm on the approach of an enemy And subsequently, at the birth of the Prophet, there was a great earthquake, by which the statue and all the bells on the top of the pillar were thrown down topsy-turvy, and the column itself iDroken in pieces but, having been formed by talismanic art, it could not be entirely destroyed, and part of it remains an extraordinary spectacle to the present day."
:
(Jemberli Tash).
35
Hoopes or bands of Iron^ by reason that tyme had weakned and dissolved the very
Severall
places with
veines of
it,
soe that
it
sundry
occasion
bands, would
or buildings^.
fall
and
much Hurt
:
either to
allsoe
in
men
FiftJily
was was
Turkish Mosques^
Sixtly
:
in
the
serraglio^
the second
1 The author is alluding to the copper bands covering the joints of the several pieces of porphyry of which the column is composed. 2 Compare Busbequius, Travels itito Turkey^ p. 49, "The... Pillar, over against the House the German Ambassadors used to lodge in, the whole Structure, besides the Basis and the Chapiter, consists of eight solid Marble {sic) of Red Porphyry Stones, so curiously joined together, that they seem but one continued Stone. For, where the Stones are jointed one into Another, upon that Commissure, there is wrought a circular Garland of Lawrels round about the Pillar, which hides the jointing so that they which look upon it from the Ground, perceive no jointing at all. That pillar hath been so often shaken by Earthquakes, and so battered by Fires happening near it, that it is cleft in many Places, and they are forced to bind it about with Iron Hoops, that it may not fall to pieces." Compare also the description of Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. pp. 16, 17, " Second talisman. In the Tauk-Bazar (poultrymarket) there is a needle-like column (the pillar of Theodosius) formed of many pieces of red emery {siinipdreh) stone, and a hundred royal cubits \zird Jiialiki) high. This was damaged in the earthquake which occurred in the two nights during which the Pride of the World was called into existence; but the builders girt it round with iron hoops, as thick as a man's thigh, in forty places, so that it is still firm and standing. It was erected a hundred and forty years before the era of Iskender, and Kostantin placed a talisman on the top of it in the form of a starling, which once a year clapped his wings, and brought all the birds in the air to the place, each with three olives in
his
beak and
2
talons."
Erected in a.d. 325, burnt down in 404, rebuilt in 415, again burnt in 532, once again rebuilt by Justinian in 538 and restored by him in 568. For a long and detailed description of the Mosque of St Sophia and the many marvels worked within its precincts, see Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. i. Part i. pp. 55 65. See also Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 46 Sanderson, Voyage, in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, pp. 16 26; Yioh\vo\!i's,&,Jour7iey through Albania, vol. ii. pp. 968 ff. * e.g. the Mosques of Bajazet II. [Bayazid], Sellm I., Sulaiman,
Ahmad,
^
etc.
the Palace of the Osmanli Sultans. Evliya Efendi, in his description of the Seraglio, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. pp. 49, 50, says, " Sultan Muhammad surrounded this strongly fortified palace
i.e.
32
36
courts at
tyme
Sir
Paul
England and
place of Embassador^,
to kisse
Hand
Where
by the new Embassador was laid to men (on the greene)^ Then was there
for the
attendants
(on
the
with
with a wall that had 366 towers, and 12,000 battlements; its circumference being 6,500 paces, with 16 gates, great and small.... There was no harem in this palace but one was built afterwards, in the time of Sultan Sulaiman." See also the accounts by Gainsford and Sandys and Tavernier, Collections of Travels, ed. 1684, in Appendix E vol. ii., "A new Relation of the inner part of the Grand Seignor's
;
Seraglio," pp.
1
91.
of Audience, erected by Muhammad II. In this enclosure all great ceremonials took place. Tavernier, in his description referred to in the previous note, has a chapter, pp. 35 43, " Of the Hall wherein the Grand Seignor gives Audience to Forein Ambassadors, and the manner how they are receiv'd." He, however, places the Hall in the third court of the
Seraglio.
^ 3
See
"
p. 23, le
and Appendix D.
Dans
le
Grand Seigneur
fait les
presents,
on
estalle
Du
* Compare the account of " Ambassadours entertaynment and audience in The Grand Signiors Serraglio" by Master Robert Withers in Put'chas His Pilgrijnes, Book ix. ch. 15, p. 1585, "When it falleth out that an Ambassadour from any great King is to kisse the Grand Signiors hand, it must be either upon a Sunday or upon a Tuesday... and then the Vizier commandeth that there be a great Divan, which is, by calling together all the Great men of the Port... who are... commanded... to go every one to his ordinary place in the second Court, and there to stand in orderly rankes...the Ambassadour... is set face to face close before the chiefe Vizier upon a stoole covered with cloth of gold and having for a while complimented and used some pleasant discourse together, the Bashaw commandeth that the dinner bee brought.... And so the Ambassadour, and the chiefe Vizier, with one or two of the other Bashawes doe eate together.. ..They having dined, the Vizier entertayneth the Ambassadour with some discourse till such time as the Ambassadours people have also dined.... And then the Ambassadour is called by the Master of the Ceremonies, by whom hee is brought to the Gate, whereat the Capi Agha \kdpi dgha, chief door-keeper] standeth with a ranke of Eunuches, which Capi Agha leadeth him to the doore of the Roome where there doe stand two Capoochee Bashees \_kdpiji-bds/ii, chamberlain] ready, who take the
;
37
fell
to
that, in a
have bin
and besistenes^
allso in the
among
other a[nimals],
saw a
little
dog.
Eightly:
is
soe
Secure
Ambassadour, the one by one arme, and the other by the other, and so leade him to kisse his Highnesse hand." See also Du Loir, Voyages^ pp. 82 89. 1 Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. in, gives a similar dePilau. scription of the behaviour of the attendants at a banquet given to the French Ambassador. See also Du Loir, Voyages, p. 85. 2 For the principal baths of Constantinople, vi'ith their names, see
Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. pp. 179 181. He estimates the number of public baths in 1634 as over three hundred. See also Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 45, and Thevenot, Travels into the Leva?it, Part i. p. 31 f. ^ See p. 29. Compare the Voyage of John Sanderson in Piirchas
His
Pilg7'imes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1628, "There is in the chiefest places for Traffique of the Citie, two Basistans, which are certayne Buildings four square, high, and made round at the top, in the forme of great Lodges covered, each of which have foure Gates, opening upon foure streets, round about garnished with shops stuffed with all rare and exquisite Merchandize."
* See p. 25. Compare the Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627, "The Patriarch of Greeks,
me that there is in Constantinople one hundred Christian Churches, most assuredly within the citie and Suburbs; I take it there are more."
Meleto...told
^ "
See
p. 25.
"
Compare the following allusions to Constantine's Palace The ruines of a Pallace upon the very wals of the City called
I
the
Moryson,
Hill is to bee seene, beginning from the West towards the Port of Andranople, a fragment standing in memory of the old Emperiall Palace with certayne Galaries, wast roomes, and pillers within it selfe, doth well shew the great power of Time, the destroyer and overthrower of all, that a Prince of the world his Palace is now become a Lodge for Elephants, Panthars, and other Beasts." Sanderson, Voyage, in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1625. "At the third Angle, which is at the bottom of the Port, on the Land side, are the Ruines of Constantine's Palace." Thdvenot, Travels into the Leiuint, Part i. p. 20
38
EngHsh shipps
key^,
Custom house
which
is
next the shippes much higher then the other, soe that the
barills
in
of
to
Custom house,
more imported
Venetian
the Dunghills
then
exported,
otherwise
advantage.
Stemmes on
vessells,
on Galata
ferriboat,
side.
among
I
the rest a
men say that their sternes were Neare Mayne topp of their great shipps.
high as the
1 Compare Moryson, Itmerary, p. 263, " The Haven will receive an huge number of Shippes, and upon bothe the bankes of the City and Galata, shippes of five hundred tunnes or greater, once unloaded, may so lie with their Cables fastened on the Land, as they can passe from the shippes to Land without any boates." See also Sandys' account of the Haven in Appe7idix E and Thevenot, Voyage into the
Levant^ Part
2
i.
p. 19.
Trepafx,
a passage, pass,
:
strait,
boat.
Compare
1597. p. 266. 1610.
the following allusions to this kind of boat "I...hyred a boat called Pyrame." Moryson, Itinerary,
"On the other side of the Haven (continually crossed by multitudes of little Boats called Permagies, and rowed for the most Sandys, Travels, p. 30. part by Egj^ptians)." "Little boats... called Perames, sometimes with two, some1614. times with four oars." Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 26. " On y va (de I'un a I'autre bord du port de Constantinople) 1640. parde petites nasselles qu'ils appellent Permez faites a peu prez comma sont les gondolles de Venise; mais plus legeres encore." Du Loir, Voyages, p. 67. "There are on both sides a great many Caiques and 1655. Permes, which will carry you over for a very small matter.... Permes are little shght Boats or Wherries, and so ticklish, that by leaning more to one side than another, it is an easie matter to overset them."" Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 27. " Peramidias, or small wherries, which ply upon the canal." 1 8 10. Hobhouse, yf/zr/z^j/ through Albania, vol. ii. p. 955.
^
Caramoussal, carmousal,
Turk,
qaramusal, a
kind
of
ship
It.
caraniussale, a Turkish
high poop.
merchantman, a Turkish ship with a very See Murray, Oxford English Dictionary, s.v. Caramoussal.
UNTILL ANNO 162O
Ninthly
:
39
was
at
saw a multitude of Ordnance lying on the ground, rest one with three bores, and another whose bore was twelve of my spannes, within which I have computed is Near thirty inches, or two and a half feet Diameter^ TentJily and lastly There hapned at my beeing thear
where
I
amon[g] the
which by
report
consumed
about
four
thousand
^ i.e. the Top-khdna. Evliya Efendi, Travels iti Europe., vol. I. Part ii. pp. 54 62, has a long description of the Top-khdna and of the suburb to which it gave its name. Of the foundation, he says as follows, p. 54, " Top-khanah, in the time of the Infidels, was a convent this is the mosque called the situated in the middle of a forest mosque of Jehanglr: as it was dedicated to Saint Alexander, the Infidels visit it once every year on the feast of this Saint.... Thus the foundation of Top-khanah is carried back to Alexander[?]. Muhammad 11. built here the gunfoundery and Bayazid II. enlarged it, and added the barracks." Compare Thevenot, Voyage into the Levant., Part i. p. 27, " Tophana It is called lies upon the Rivers side over against the Serraglio Tophana, that is to say, the House of Cannon, because it is the place where Guns and other Pieces of Artillery are cast, and that gives the name to all that Quarter, which is a kind of little Town." See also Delia Valle, Voyages., vol. i. p. 26.
2 "In the yeare 1605. ..a French gentleman presumed to [count] the artillery and canons before the Topinaw as they lay the sea shore." Gainsford, Glory of England, p. 197.
tell
by
^ Compare Thevenot, Voyage into the Levatit, Part i. p. 19, "This town (Constantinople) is so subject to Earthquakes, that I have felt two in one night." See also note 4.
* Compare the following allusions to the prevalence of fires at Constantinople in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries " The Citie of Constantinople in time past had eleven gates.... But the continuall fires, the many Earthquakes... overthrew the famous Ancient wall." Sanderson, Voyage., in Purchas His Pilgrinies, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1628 f " In Constantinople there have happened many fearefuU fires... and now lately in the yeare 1607, October 14, there were burned above Lithgow, Painefull Peregriitations, p. 138. three thousand houses." Purchas, Pilgrimage, p. 289, mentions an extensive fire at Constantinople in 1606, and, on p. 295, he alludes to the portents at the end of the reign of Sultan Ahmad, " First they were astonished at a blazing Comet, secondly they were affrighted at a great fire hapning amongst the Jewes, which they presaged ominous. Thirdly a sore The Sea also Earth quake made their hearts quake for feare. swelled extraordinarily. And a great dearth hapned." Thevenot, Voyage into the Levant, Part i. p. 26, remarks, " As to
:
40 VOYAGES
1608
houses, beeing
at the highest
:
consumed above one thousand a day in that which evills and all others, good Lord deliver
from
Amen=*.
the Houses of Constantinople, they are very ordinary, and almost all of Wood, which is the cause that when Fires happen, as they do very often, they make great havock amongst them, especially if a wind blow there were three Fires in Constantinople in the space of eight months that I sojourned there; the first... burnt down eight thousand Houses.. ..In the time cf Sultan Amurat, such a fire raged there for three days, as ruined one half of the Town."
:
p. 265,
and Delia
i.
p.
49
Compare Du Loir, Voyages, p. 34, " Cette ville (Constantmople) est tellement afifiigee de la peste qu'il arrive quelque fois que par una seule porte on enleve plus de mille personnes mortes en un seul jour."
2 Evliya Efendi regarded the heavy loss of life from plague, fire or earthquake with great equanimity. He casually remarks. Travels in Eurohe, vol. I. Part i. p. 23, " Istambol is so vast a city that if a thousand die in it, the want of them is not felt in such an ocean of men." 3 This concludes the Author's Siipplenient to Relation I.
Sern
Vol
17.
Compiled
for
the HaJduyl
Societr
RELATION
A
begun the
6th.
II.
to
London,
May
anno i620\
The Honourable Paule Pindar, Ambassador from the Kinge of Create Brittaine unto the Gran Signior, haveinge bene resident there eight yeares and eight monethes^, began his Journey for England the day abovesaid in the
morninge, haveinge taken his leave of Sir John Eyres*
(lately
his
come over
att
howse
for
him
Mr. Paule
Pindar (Cousin to
my
Lord)^, Mr.
Cary
Davis'',
The
is:
2286,
"A oi Relation in the British Museum copy, Hart. MS., Journey overland from Constantinople to London in
title
II.
companie with the Honourable Paul Pindar, Ambassador from the Kinge of Great Brittaine unto the Gran Seignior, haveinge bene resident there eight yeares and eight Monethes, begunn his Journey for England the 6th. of May Anno 1620."
2 ^
From
161
Sir John Eyre was appointed in 1619, arrived in 1620, was recalled in 1621, and was succeeded by Sir Thomas Roe in 1622,
Mr
John Chapman acting in the interval. See note 2 on p. 22. 5 Paul Pindar Junior was admitted to the freedom of the Levant Company on the ist July, 1619. State Papers, Foreign Archives,
*
vol.
^
148, p. 31.
I
in finding
to these
individuals.
''
Company on
42
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Dominico (Druggarman^),
Henry Faro
(taylour),
John
^ In March 1628, Lawrence Spike was recommended by Sir Allen Apsley as a purser for the Mary Rose or any other ship. Calettdar of State Papers^ Domestic Series, 1628 1629, p. 46.
In February, 1628, a warrant was issued for Letters of Marque to the Sa/naritan of Dartmouth, owners, Richard Lane and others. In 1 63 1 Richard Lane refused to pay a bill drawn on him for merchandize supplied to his son, John Lane, on the plea that the Creditor, Adrian Payes, was an "alien enemy." The case was referred to Sir John
2
Wolstanholme, etc., in February, 1632, and quashed. See Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, under dates, 7th February, 1628, 30th December, 163 1, and 14th February, 1632. ^ I have not succeeded in finding any extraneous reference to these
individuals.
Seale was "Beadle" to the Levant Company {Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, vol. 147, He may have been the father of Mundy's pp. 154, 161 a, 172 a.) companion.
*
161 5
1619.
i.e.
A Humphrey
interpreter.
He was
taken
ill
the party arrived at Paris, in September, 1620, and was left behind under the care of Vincentio. In State Papers, Foreign Archives, vol. 148, pp. 45 a and 52, there are the following references to Dominico after his return to England: "Sir Paule Pindar... recommended unto the Company the honesty, ability and good service of Signior Dominico Greeke who was his drichman there, desiringe that the Company would add some tytle of reputation unto him for his good service passed, and that they would againe entertaine him and recomend him to the present Ambassador to serve him as one of his Secretaries being a verie fitt man for the discharge of that place. Whereupon the Court approvinge of the motion have chosen the sayd Signior Dominico for one of the Secretaries of Mr. John Eyres so as it be with his likinge and good approbation. And upon such terme as Mr. Deputie, Mr. Raph Freeman, Morris Abbott, Henry Garway, Anthony Abdy and the Husband [steward, paymaster] shall sitt downe and agree uppon, which with the Companyes pleasure Mr. Governor acquainted the sayd Signior Dominico he verie thankfully accepted of their favor and respect towards him which he will alwais indeavour to preserve." In spite of this excellent testimonial, Dominico did not " Whereas Signior Dominico was formerly entertayned get the post. at a Generall Court the 18th. of October last upon the recommendation of Sir Paule Pindar Knight, to assist Sir John Eyre the now Ambassader at Constantinople in his affaires for the Company as his Secretary, and an agreement made with him for 400 doUers Per Annum to beginn at Christmas last, yet with this reservation, that if Sir John Eyre should not agree thereunto nor accept of the said Signior Dominico in that place upon notice thereof given unto him from the Company, that then the said Election and agreement should be wholly voyde. Forasmuch as the letters read at this Courte from the Ambassador do intymate that he will not accept of the said
when
43
John
Cunny,
Thomas
Humes
Peter
(a Scottishman),
Edward
my
selfe,
Mundy. In all 25 persons with my Lord. Likewise Frenchmen went in our Companie these came over with the newe Frenche Ambassador^, and were now
six
;
and
Dominico as Secretary, and that ther is not any occasion of Imployment for him as Truchman, or otherwise but adviseth the Company
;
to ease themselves of that charge. Sir Paula Pinder being then present in Court did take notice thereof, and after some debate too and fro aboute the said busines, did in the behalf of Signior Dominico acknowledge the Companies favour towards him ; and freely discharged the Company from the said Ellection and Agreement which
was accordingly accepted of by the Court, and the said Signior Dominico leaft at his owne libertie, and dispose to imploy himself as
hee best thought fitting." ^ The French Ambassador at this time was Monsieur de C6sy {vide Des Hayes, Voiage de Levant^ p. 88, quoted in Appendix F). De Cdsy succeeded the unfortunate Baron de Sancy, who was Ambassador from 161 1 to 1617, in which latter year he was insulted and imprisoned in the " Seven Towers " by Mustafa I. De Sancy was recalled in 161 8, and Osman, Mustafa's successor, made his peace with the French king. See Knolles, Historic of the Turkes^ p. 1378. ^ The Janissaries Yengi cheri^ new soldiery) were established by ( Amurath (Murad) I. in 1362. The organization was composed mainly
of tributary children of Christians. It was finally abolished in 1826. The composition, rise and history of the Turkish Janissaries are curiously allied to that of the Cheylas employed about the Muhammadan Courts of India in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Vide Ind. Ant., vol. xxv. pp. 199 ff. and 228 ff. Compare Gainsford, Glory of Englaiid., p. 201, "The degrees of the Turks. The second degree is of Janizaries.. .the principall beame of the whole Empires frame. For from their suffrages and obedience the Gran Signeur is confirmed." See also Purchas, Pilgrimage., p. 291.
^ *
to be a copyist's error here and the passage should apparently run, "one Armenian named Muratt," Murat (Ar. for Murad) being a common Armenian surname Later on in this Relation we learn that "this Murratt" was otherwise named "Taddue" (see p. 48) and " Taddux" so that we may assume that the author is
:
sais).,
a groom, horse-keeper.
44
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
the
as
Stamo
waggons
Greeke,
farr
my
Lord
haveinge
hired
twelve
as
stuffe.
Himselfe
road
in
the waggons.
The
Frenchmen had
thirty-one
on the way,
Mr. William
vizt.,
Mr.
Moody^
Woodhouse^, Mr.
five
Hamond
Gibbons^
Theis
is
Rivers^ which
Mr. Wilson^
Mr.
Laurence
Greene*',
Mr.
Bartholomew
speaking of an Armenian
When
the party arrived at Belgrade, "this Muriatt" was permitted to return to Constantinople with a Bulgarian woman, whom he had chosen as a wife for his brother, a shoemaker in the Turkish capital.
^
Edward
I
stantinople.
^
Stringer was treasurer to the Levant Company at ConState Papers, Foreign Archives, vol. 148, p. 9 a.
to find
in-
dividuals.
^
Company on
* In a map of 1690 (B.M. Com43335. 3) Aqua dulce is marked. pare Clarke, Travels, vol. iv. p. 521 f, "We embarked at Galata... we came to the confluence of two small rivers, the Cydaris and the Barbyses, abounding with innumerable fishes, and giving to this part of the bay the name of Sweet or Fresh Waters."
See note 7 on p. 41. See note 4 on p. 23. The following extracts from the Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, appear to refer to the Lawrence Greene with whom Mundy was connected ? 1621 (vol. 42, No. 67). "The King to [the Levant Company], We request that Lawrence Greene, late consul at Smyrna, between whom and you a difference exists about his salary, may have a fair and ample allowance for his services and expenses during his employment." 1 62 1 (vol. 42, No. 68). "The King to Sir Thomas Rowe and Sir Paul Pindar. We recommend the case of Greene, late consul at Smyrna, referred to you by the Council, to your favourable
^ ^
:
report."
28 January, 1634.
"The King
to the
Merchants trading
to the Levant.
45
Lowe^ Mr.
John Smith-, Mr. Edward Wyche^ Mr. Robert Salter^ Theis seven rode on with my Lord, and that eveninge wee came to a Towne standinge on the sea syde" (Ponto
Piccolo,
15
miles'').
Wee
in
good
consul of Scio and Smyrna in place of Lawrence Greene whom they have removed." Petition of Lawrence Greene to the King. 6 December, 1636. "On the death of William Salter, he was appointed Consul at Smyrna, by his Majesty's Ambassador with the Turkish Emperor, afterwards confirmed by the Company of English Merchants trading in those Having done them many services these five years, he has parts. received no allowance for his pains, as his predecessors have done, whereupon he has made stay of some of their goods. For staying of which goods the said merchants now at his return labour to arrest petitioner (in this dangerous time) and restrain him from attending His Majesty or the Secretaries of State as he ought. Prays letter of
protection."
From the above, Lawrence Greene seems to have held the post of Consul at Smyrna under the Levant Company prior to 1621, and again, for five years previous to 1634.
'
2 ^
to these individuals.
This may be the Francis Lowe who is referred to in September 1626, p. 421) 1626 {Calendar of State Papej's^ Dotnestic Series, 1625 Certifies sufficiency " Sir Alexander Brett to Nicholas. as follows of Francis Lowe who was in the action at Algiers, and with Sir Walter Raleigh under the command of Captain Pennington."
:
relations with
the
Wyche
family, see
Appendix
B.
^ Robert Salter, who was probably connected with William Salter, Consul at Smyrna (see above, p. 44, note 6), was made free of the Levant Company in June, 1619; State Papers, Foreign Archives, In August, 1629, a warrant was issued to a Robert vol. 148, p. 30 a. Salter for letters of marque as owner and Captain of the Margaret of Weymouth; Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, 1629 1631,
p. 155.
'
to Belgrade,
was
Pindar's train travelled by the old post road from Constantinople a route now almost exactly followed by the railway. It the road taken by Des Hayes in 1621, Blount in 1634, PouUet in
1657 1658, Covel in 1670, Pococke in 1740, and Clarke in 1802. The three former covered the same ground as did Mundy from Constantinople to Belgrade, though in the contrary direction, and the two latter, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, made their way to Adrianople by the same stages that the author followed in 1620. The Journey of Des Hayes, happening almost contemporaneously with Mundy's "Journey Overland" is given at length in Appendix F.
''
this
Relation
46
stone Cane\
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Heere
is
The
to
yth.
May,
1620.
come
after
my
Lord^
(8
From Ponto Piccolo wee came to Ponto grande miles), another Towne on the Sea side, with a faire
Heere
my
Lord pitched
his
Tent
tyme
in
And
this night
the nighte.
May,
1620.
Khan, caravan-serai, posting inn. "Ponto Piccolo" is the modern Kuchuk Chekmejd. Des Hayes (see Appendix F) has Petit pont; a map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) has Cochion Check Mege and a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) has Pons
^
min.
Compare Poullet, Notcvelles Relations dtc Levant, vol. i. p. 203, " Kutchukmege, qui veut dire un petit (pont), suivy d'un autre gros bourg, qui n'a point d'autre appellation, ou les Ambassadeurs qui vont a la Porte demeurent, pour y attendre les ordres du Grand Seigneur, et estre conduits a I'Audiance." Compare also Pococke, Description of the East, Book the third, ch. iii. (Pinkerton's Voyages, vol. x. p. 732 f.), "The road (from Constantinople to Adrianople)...is to the south west, through an open fertile country, which is uneven as far as Selivree....Five miles from Constantinople there is a small town called The Little Bridge, from a bridge there near the sea, over the outlet of a lake. See Covel, Early Voyages in the Leva?it, p. 174 and Clarke, Travels, vol. iv. p. 477.
^ It is not clear when he re-joined the Ambassador and the rest of the company. The next mention of him in this Relation is when the party reached Paris.
* The modern Biyuk Chekmeje. Des Hayes (see Appetidix F) has grand Pont, and a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) has Pons maj. Compare Poullet, Nonvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. p. 203, " Bouioukmege est le nom d'un grand pont, sur lequel on traverse un marais cause par un degorgement de la mer, pour passer a un bourg nommd de mesme." Compare also Clarke, Travels, vol. iv. p. 477, " Buyuk Tchekmadji, signifying the Great Bridge, has a series of four stone bridges raised upon arches over which, and along the old paved way, we passed by
:
a lake
to the town."
See Covel, Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 176. See also Pococke, Description of the East, Book the third, ch. iii. p. 732, in Pinkerton's Voyages, vol. x.
47
and returned
to Constantinople.
wee came to Selibrea (11 miles)^, a Seatowne, neere which wee pitched for that Night. The.(^th. May, 1620. Wee came to Choorloo (20 miles)*,
Messrs Greene, Abbott, Gwilliams, Lowe, Smith, Wyche, and They were all probably " Turkey Merchants," residing at See note 3 on p. 15. Pera. 2 The modern Kumburgas. Compare Covel, Early Voyages in the Leva?it, p. 1 79, " About half way to Selibria we go by a Httle ruinated town, just in the very sea, the road lying upon the sand the town stands to the right hand, in Turkish Koomburgas, or sandburough... there hath been formerly a little castle or fort there." PouUet calls the place Congerba: " Une personne de consideration ...nous protegea de sa compagnie, et nous conduisit jusqu'k Congerba." Nouvelles Relations dn Levant., vol. i. p. 203. In a map of 1822 (B.M., 6". 205) it appears as Coumbourgaz or Couzomion. Compare also Pococke, A Description of the East (Pinkerton's Great Voyages., vol. x. p. 732), " Ten miles further [beyond the Bridge'] is a village on the sea called Camourgat."
1
i.e.
Salter.
'
^ The modern Silivri. Compare the stages in "The Journey of Edward Barton, Esquire, her Majesties Ambassador with the Grand Signior.... Written by Sir Thomas Glover, etc." in Purchas His Pilg?imes, Book viii. ch. 9, p. 1355 f (Barton made the journey
from
followed Mundy's of July, 1596, the said Amhouse (which is in the Vines of Pera) and took bassador his journey... unto a place called Aquadulce [the Fresh Rivers]. ..we... came to Ponte Piccolo... some fifteene miles distant from Aquadulce... parted thence... arrived at Ponte Grande, which is about twelve miles distant... we parted Ponte Grande, and by Sun-rising wee came to a small village called Combergassi... parted thence, and came to a Towne, called Celebria...some ten miles distant from our last Lodging." Compare also Poullet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant., vol. i. p. 203, " Les restes d'une petite Ville, appel^e Celivree, qui a son Port combl^ et poste en un lieu fort avantageux." Voyage into the Leva7tt, ed. 1638, p. 23, for "Burgaz, See Blount, Churlo " and " Selibree." The passage is quoted in Appe?tdix A. See also Covel, Early Voyages in the Levant., p. I79f, and Pococke, Description of the East (Pinkerton's Voyages, vol. x. p. 732). Clarke, Travels, vol. iv. p. 540, remarks, "From Buyuk Tchekmadj^ to Selivria was Hke travelling over the steppes of Russia," and, p. 542, "Selivria...is surrounded by vineyards.... The harbour is good."
Constantinople
to
Selibria), parted his
to
Belgrade
in
1596 and
route
p.
*'
* The modern Chorlu. See Covel, Early Voyages in the Levant, i8of, and Bargrave's account, quoted at the end oi Appendix F. Compare Poullet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. p. 201 f., Chiourlik, au dessus duquel on voit quelques vieilles vestiges d'une
48
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
lotk.
May,
to
1620.
Wee came
Towne named
.
Bergasse
(15
miles)^^
Wee
ancienne muraille,
avoient
et d'un
Canal que
les derniers
Empereurs
Chrestiens.
commence k faire creuser pour laisser degorger la mer de Marmora dans le Pont-Euxin, et se couvrir des irruptions des Bar-
bares." Des Hayes (see Appendix F) calls the place Chiourli. map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) has Ziorli Chiourlik, and a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) has Tschurlik-Tzurlum. DeSee also Clarke, Travels, vol. iv. p. 543, and Pococke, scription of the East in Pinkerton's Voyages, vol. x. p. 732.
They left the party at the " Fresh Rivers." See p. The modern Karistran. See Covel, Early Voyages
44.
in the Levant,
p. 183.
He
Compare Clarke, Travels, p. 544, "At six hours' distance from Tchorlu, we turned a little out of the road to the village of
Caristrania."
called also Chatal-Burgas. See quoted in Appendix A. See also Appendix F (last part) for an extract from Rawl. MS., C. 799, giving the Diary of Robt. Bargrave in his journey from Constantinople to Burgas,
^
in
1652.
Description of the East (Pinkerwent.. .to a town called Borgas, which from the name, as well as situation, seems to be the antient (A map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) has Bergulae ArBergulas."
Compare Pococke's
account,
"We
cadia.)
Hobhouse, foiirtiey through Albania, vol. ii. p. 871, Belgrade commence about ten miles from Pera, extending in length from the village of Bourgas towards the shores of the Black Sea.... At Bourgas is a portion of the aqueduct built originally by Theodosius or Valens and Valentinian...and totally reconstructed by Solyman the Magnificent." * Now usually Eski Baba, though in Kiepert's map of the Turkish Empire (1855) it appears as Baba Eskisi. See Covel, Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 1 85 f. Compare Poullet, Nouvelles Relations dii Levant, vol. i. p. 201, "La route [Adrianople to Constantinople] est toute ennuyeuse, unie, Le seul avantage qu'il y a, est la comet sans beaucoup d'arbres. modite des Caravan-serails, qui sont les plus beaux qu'il y ait dans le Levant... de Constantinople a Andrinoplc.on rencontre quelques a bourgs, dont les premiers sont moins peuplez que les derniers scavoir Absa, Babaesqui, Burgase, compose seulement d'un fort petit
also
Compare
"The
forests of
49
Towne
1620.
called
The
side of
\2th.
May,
Wee Came
in a
very
faire
Grand
Sigrs. pallace,
wee were
howse
to lodge the
thither,
when he cometh
very
Heere
is
and a bridge.
My
Lord went
to see the
Gran
his
and
most of
a
require
it
greate
of
tyme
only you
may
suppose
was
very
greate
stately,
curious
and
costly,
haveinge
many
faire
environed with a
faire
bricke
which
y a
is
nombre de maisons,
serail qu'on
See
vol.
^
et qui n'est considerable qu'a cause du esleve, le plus acheve de toute la Turquie." Pococke, Description of the East (Pinkerton's
X.
p.
Ti-^).
Khafsa, or Hafsa. See Covel, Early Voyages i?i See previous note for PouUet's spelling of the {Appendix F) calls it Absa a map of 1690 (B. M. 43335- 3) has Apsa a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195.22) has Hapsala; and Pococke has Hapfa.
the Levafit, p. 187. place. Des Hayes
; ;
The modern
note, "Vid: Fol: I." This refers remarks on Adrianople, extracted from his Voyage into the Levant. The passage will be found in Appendix A. ^ Pindar and his train were more fortunate in their lodging at Adrianople than were Sir John Finch and Sir Thos. Barnes when they made the same journey in 1675 as described by Covel, Early Voyages iti the Levant, p. 190, "The house we first were allotted was the damn'dest, confounded place that ever mortall man was put into ; it was a Jewes house not half big enough to hold half my Lord's family, a mere nest of fleas and cimici [bugs], and rats and mice, and stench, surrounded with whole kennells of nasty, beastly Jewes." * Compare the following travellers' descriptions of Adrianople and the "Gran Signior's" SeragHo: "There yet remain the walls of the
^
to Blount's
50
TJie
\A^th.
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
May,
1620.
my
Lords
now contain the fourth and worst part, inhabited by Zinganes [Gipsies], Christians, Jews, and others esteemed as refuse people a little without the city northward, stands the Grand Seignior's seraglio with a park walled, some three miles in compass the palace is very low, all covered with lead rising up for [?from] a fiat, into a sharp round, and seems but like a garden-house for pleasure it is kept by his Agemoglans \^ajenu-oghla?t, lit. foreign-boy, an oriental foreigner newly admitted to the Sultan's service], to entertain not only the Grand Seignior, but in his absence, any bashaw or other principal minister." Blount, A Voyage into the Levant, p. 23. (Blount was fifty-two days in travelling from Spalato to Constantinople. Mundy took forty-six days to do the journey in the opposite direction.) " Adrianople is very delightfully situated, in a beautiful plain, watered by three rivers the shops, which are well built and furnished, and the Kanes are within the city walls, but most of the people live on the height over the old city This is one of the four royal cities in which the Grand Signiors have made their residence the seraglio is to the west of the town... it is built on a fine plain spot, and there is a large meadow towards the river planted with trees besides the principal building for the Grand Signior, which did not seem to be very large, there are many little houses in the gardens for the ladies, and in other parts for the great officers and as they are low, it has the appearance of a Carthusian cloyster....On the hill to the west of the seraglio there is a large summer-house which belongs to the Grand Signior, from which there is a fine prospect of the City, and all the country round." Pococke, A Description of the East, in Pinkerton's Voyages, vol. x. P- 733 fSee also PouUet, Nonvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. pp. 195 200 and the account in Appendix F. 1 See p. 44. 2 " Gasparo Gratiano, a Druggerman," Author's l7idex. Caspar
: :
He was first employed Gratiani was a notable character of the time. as interpreter to Sir Thomas Glover, Pindar's predecessor at Constantinople, and was instrumental in obtaining the release of Sir Thomas Later, Gratiani Shirley, who had been imprisoned by the Turks. In 1614 he was sent on an entered the service of the Grand Signior. embassy to the Emperor Matthias. As a reward for his success in See the negotiations, he obtained the government of Moldavia. KnoUes, Historie of the Ttirkes, p. 1385, and Von Hammer, Nistoire de V Empire Ottoman, vol. viii. pp. 201 and 246. Compare the following contemporary references to Gratiani " Gasparo Gratiano a man for speciall uses entertained amongst the English, whose brother and sister were both taken and admitted amongst the Turkes, being formerly Christains of Transilvania or Austria." Gainsford, Glofy of Ettglajtd, p. 192. "At Vienne in Austria...! found a Turkish Ambassadour, going downe the Champion Danubis of Europe, for Constantinople; and with him one Gratianus, a Greeke his Interpreter, to whose familiar love I was much obliged and with whom I imbarked downe the River Lithgow, Paineftt II Peregrinations, p. 412. to Presburge."
:
now
:
Prince of
Bugdamia\
this
and attained
There
beinge warrs
was concluded betwene the twoe Monarches, good service therein performed,
of an
And
hee was
for his
made Duke
Hand
called
Naxia^
afterwards
Prince of Bugdanial
From
wee
as
Cupreesee (15
^ The term Bugdamia or Bugdania appears to have been used in two senses firstly, for some portion of the modern Bessarabia, then a part of Moldavia and, secondly, for the old province of Moldavia
:
itself
Compare Purchas, Pilgrimage, p. 294 f., "The Janizaries. ..cried should they not march to... the foraging of the Countries of Moldavia and Bogdonia....The King of Poland... encamped in the
out... why fields of
Bogdonia."
Gainsford, Glory of England, p. 183, alludes to "the inhabitants of Bogdonia and the borders of Russia" and, on p. 192, he remarks on the "Provinces of Bogdonia and Moldavia at strife."
Naxia or Naxos, in the Greek Archipelago. It was afterwards reported that standinge out in Rebellion against the Turke hee was by them Slaine." Author s marginal note. The downfall of Caspar Gratiani, when Voivode of Moldavia occurred soon after Mundy left Constantinople. He was deposed on the discovery of his intrigues with Sigismund III., the ruler of Poland. Gratiani called upon the Poles for assistance. They sent him a force of 50,000 men, 10,000 of whom were slain at a battle fought near Gratiani himself Jassy, in Moldavia, on the 20th September, 1620. perished in the retreat across the Dniester with the remnant of the army. See Von Hammer, Histoire de VEmpire Ottoinan, vol. viii.
^
"
260. Knolles, Historie of the Turkes, p. 1385 f., gives a different version of Gratiani's deposition and says that he escaped alive after the battle.
* This place is still known as Mustafa Pasha, or Jezar Mustafa Pasha, or Mustafa Pasha Kuprusu. A map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) has Mustapha Bassa Cuprisy Pons Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 31, "We passed over the Hebrus on a famous Bridge, made by Mustapha, and so came to Hadrianople." Compare also Poullet, Nouvelles Relations dii Levant, vol. i. p. 189,
!
pp. 256
52
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Pasha.
Must
Of
this
bridge
it
is
thus
reported
for
certaine,
That Sultan
SoHman
the
Magnificent haveing
warrs with Hungary^, att his Comeinge this way, saw the
bridge,
it
to be built, the
it.
afore
named
on him, whereit
for the
good of
his soule,
The Kinge,
little
;
above
wherein,
owne Pages
to this day,
among
the
rest.
Soe that
it
is
Custome
way
on warfare, hee goeth not over the Bridge, but where the
passe.
The
rest
of the
The
\^th.
May,
came
to this
1620. From the place a foresaid^ wee Towne (Armanly, 15 miles)^ and pitched
Au sortir de Philiba nous rencontrames quatre ou cinq villages, qui n'avoient rien de plus celebre que les antiquailles de leurs ruines comme Apapa likioi, Cayli kioi ou Zovigiova, Hermanli, Mustafapacha Cupressi, Tekyeh; ou je vis d'assez beaux Caravanserails." See Des Hayes' description of "Mustapha Bascha" in Appendix F.
^ Sulaiman the Magnificent besieged and took Czabaoz and Belgrade in 1521. In 1526, and again in 1531, he led victorious armies into Hungary. 2 i.e. Mustafa Pasha. ^ i.e. the town of Mustafa Pasha. * Hermanli, or ChirmenH. See note 4 on pp. 51, 52. See also the account of Hermanli by Des Hayes in Appendix F. The Khan seems to be still in existence. ^ See note i on p. 46. Compare PouUet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. p. 68, " Je me rendis au Han, qui estoit justement fait comme une grange... en Turquie ils sont tous pareils a celui-ci." For various accounts of the Khans in Turkey, from 1620 up to 1810, see Busbequius, Travels i?tto Turkey, pp. 21 24; Du Loir, Voyages, p. 190; Covel, Early Voyages in the Levatit, p. 174; Thdvenot, Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 26; Dumont, A New
53
for the
accomatt
Turkes Dominions.
for horse
you must buy your provision and dresse it your selfe in the said Canes, where are Chimnies for the purpose. These Canes are of the fairest buildings in theis parts, of Hewen stone, and Covered with
if
Only
Lead
for
the
most part
faire
as
likewise
the
Mosches or
cheifest),
greate
buildings
open
att
nine in the
in
fine
wares
Men
which
is
Weeke
aforesaid,
Voyage mto the Leva?it^ p. 160; Tournefort, A Voyage into the Levant, vol. ii. p. 60 f. and Hobhouse, A Journey through Albania,
;
vol.
ii.
p. 960.
Hayes,
"
of Turkey,
by Des
1 See pp. 29 and 37. For further descriptions of bazistans or Thevenot, arcaded shops, see Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 42 Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 26; Dumont, A New Voyage iftto the Levant, p. 149; Hobhouse, A Journey through Albania, vol. ii. p. 962 f. 2 See note 2 on See also Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 45. p. 37. Compare Blount, A Voyage into the Levant, ed. 1638, p. 100, "Upon the taking of any Towne, the first thing they (the Turks) erect is publique Bathes, which they establish with faire revenues; so that for lesse then two pence, any man or woman may bee bathed with cleane linnen, and neate attendance."
;
54
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
\6th.
of May, 1620.
Wee came
dined
;
to
Uzumyova^ a
to
little
Towne
miles)^,
where
poore
wee
then
Cayalucke
their
(15
Towne
of Christians,
Where
and Bowes covered with strawe^ Heere were Store of Hoggs, and the first wee saw since My Lord himselfe our settinge out from Constantinople*.
best walls were of Stakes
lodged
in
Noate
that
all
the
or through
hitherto (this
the
in
May,
1620.
Comminge
to
another poore
Towne
(12
1
Cittie of Phillippopolis
map, has
;
Ouzouisgiova. map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) ^^^.s Usumchese a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) has Usumchova and a map of 1822 (B.M., S. 205) has Ouzoundja-ova.
;
town.
^
Poullet, in his
Until his arrival at Kialik, the author had only passed through Muhammadan towns.
*
5
7
52.
See note 2 on
p. 53.
and
53.
8 ^
known
as Papasli.
Poullet, in his
Kioj.
Fol. I." This refers to Blount's remarks on Philippopolis and Mundys comments thereon. These will be found in Appendix A. Compare the account of Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 31, " The City of Philippopolis is situate on one of three Httle Hills, disjoyned, and as it were, rent from the rest of the Mountains, and is, as the Grace of those Httle Hillocks.... The whole Plain, about the Town, is full of Httle round HiUs of Earth, which the Turks say, were raised on Purpose, as Monuments of the frequent Battles fought in those Fields and the Graves [of] such as were slain there." Compare Poullet's description of Philippopolis, Nouvelles Relations die Levant, vol. ii. p. 177, " Nous passames la Marissa sur un pont de
bois assez mal fait, et arrivames k Philipopolis, ou Philiba, jolie ville, situee sur le bord de cette riviere, passablement bien batie, dans una See assiette fort agreable, et un peu plus grande que Saint Denis." also the account of Des Hayes in Appendix F.
:^jBl.
^^^ .;.*^^S?|,7
55
bridge.
a greate plaine with high hills on by a River, over which was a tymber Hard by us wee discovered the carcasses of Two
men
to bee eaten
is
by Doggs.
ordinarily inflicted
is
by driveinge with a
it come The Malefactor is
Fundament
forth
first laid
on
to his feete,
one or two
strugglinge
beateth
it
Then they
sett the
Pole an end,
and continueth
att
one of
theis
Executions
Con-
where
fearefull
left off,
Body,
I
all
after.
come neere
to
see
him
for the
presse of people
Some
are
executed by Gaunchinge.
Gaunches are
Edward
1355.
Pilgrintes,
Book
viii.
ch. 9, p.
2 In the British Museum copy of Mundy's Travels, Harl. 2286, the description of Staking ends here.
MS.,
2 *
i.e.
a mallet.
For similar accounts of Staking, see the Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgrinies, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1623 Lithgow, Painefull Peregrinations, p. 154 and Raw I. MS., C. 799, fol. 30 b. Gaunch or ganch, an obsolete word from the French ganche, Ital. ganciare, gancio, a hook, is the apparatus employed in the
; ; ^
56
great, sharpe,
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
poynted Iron Hookes of about a yard and
a halfe
in
On
yards
over-
annother
Beame
Soe
fast
by them hoysed upp, and, on a suddaine lett fall upon one of the said hookes, where hee must hange three dayes likewise^ lett it Catch where but most commonly it will, breast, shoulders, or thighes it runns in at their bellies and out att their Backe, and
;
may
see,
but on Trees
and
bee
in a
Weomen
night
stones
offenders are
bound
in
in
haveing
made
rest)
wherewith
hee dyes." ^ For other accounts of "gaunching," see the Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1628; Rawl. MS., C. 799, fol. 30 b and Th^venot, Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 68 f.
1
The
British
Museum
till
in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Bargrave, 1628; and Du Loir, Voyages, p. 187. Mawl. MS., C. 799, fol. 30 b, says that Jews were commonly seized .u^pon and compelled to perform the duties of the hangman, the nearest l)eam serving as gallows.
^
Book
ch.
16, p.
p. 52,
and Dumont,
A New
Voyage
to the
Leva7it, p. 241.
5/
(some
it Drubbinge)\ In this manner. First, there is a good big Stacke^ with a small rope unto, and with which
Offenders
feete
are
made
fast,
whereon
terrible paine
is
This
the extreamest
for ordinarily
one
man
serveth to hold
saw
inflicted
Two weomen,
the youngest of them for playing the Harlott and the elder
Bawde.
They were
sett
faces all
dirt
and
filth,
their heads,
bosomes over layed and hung round gutts and garbidge of some Sheep or
in this
What
by
relate of theis
Sundrey punishments
is
partly
my owne
1 The descriptions of the punishments of "Drubbinge" and " Shameinge," as well as of the " Three Severall sorts of Swingings " are omitted in the British Museum copy, Harl. MS., 2286.
2 ^
Stock.
;
See Poullet, Nouvelles Relations dii Leva?ti, vol. i. p. 348 and Thdvenot, Travels mto the Levant., Part i. pp. 66 and 68. * In the Voyage of John Sanderson, in Purchas His Pilgriines, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1623, a similar punishment is described for false
witnesses.
Dumont,
See Poullet, Nouvelles Relations dii Levant, A New Voyage to the Levant, p. 267.
vol.
i.
p.
348
and
^ The value of Mundy's MS. is enhanced by his abstention from using, as his own, the experiences of other travellers.
58
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Theis three,
vizt.
by Figures on
creuell
To
most
and
their
Torturinge punishments,
pastimes,
will digresse to
some of
and
amonge
in
the
rest
the
severall
Sorts
of
Swinginge used
Feast of Biram^.
First there
is
their
erected (as
it
Topps of
their howses,
is
fastned
that
fast,
is
to bee swunge,
litle
is
made
although others
themselves.
haveing
ready certen
yards of
Cerse^ webb,
goe soe
againe.
farr
may, then
forcibly
continueinge untill he
come
playing
all
the while.
him backe
Carriage of his body hee swingeth himself levell with the Topps of the Timber, which may seeme strange to some, though not so much if any one would make tryall For once haveinge gotten the least motion, every tyme he ascends, forward or backward to raise himself upright,
;
and
feete,
in
fallinge to
contracte
come
See illustration facing p. 55. See Th^venot, Travels into the Levant^ Part i. p. 42 account of the observance of the Bairam in his time.
^
f.
for
an
r^narcf^
59
One
seats
is
Hke a
Key^ and
little
on
And though
hunge round about in severall parts thereof, it turne right upp and downe, and that the
the
lower,
and sometymes on
upright I
yett
they
alwaies
sitt
The
beinge
third sort
is
Wheele, on whose
goeing round
litle
the wheele
is
Horizontallwise^
Children I
The
Beinge
att Philippopolis, as in
fol.
5^ understandinge
before mentioned,
was
in that Cittie,
by the bancks
of a river as
on any
occasion''.
^ The old Customhouse "near to the Tower of London," was built by John Churchman, Sheriff of London, in 1385. See Stow, Survey of London., Book v. p. 114. Stow also refers to the "Custom House Key" as follows (Book ii. p. 53), "The present Names of the Keys or Wharfs lying on the South Side.. .Custom House Key... .But above all is the Custom House Which being consumed by the Fire of London 1666, is rebuilt in a much more magnificent and uniform manner." As Stow has no reference to the " Craine wheele " mentioned by Mundy, it is probable that this also was destroyed in the
:
to
be similar to the
now
Court.
still
is
so popular at English
* In no other contemporary writer on Turkey or the Turks have I found any allusion to the very common oriental pastime of swinging, although the various modes of punishment receive full attention and
See
5 of the Rawlinson MS.., p. 54 of this volume. ''In the British Museum copy, Harl. MS.., 2286, there is only the remark, " Heere wee understood the plague was within the Cittie."
i.e. fol.
60
Noate
plaine
:
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
that
from
is
Champion Countries without either Tree or bush att Townes or Villages", But from Adrianople hither, although the like plaine ground, yett over growne with woods and Bushes of Oake for the most parti TJie 18///. May, 1620. Wee came to this place (Tatarbazargick, 15 miles)-*, where, having dined, wee past forward
exceptinge
to a Christian village (Yengheekeoy, 10 miles) ^,
and there
The
igth.
May,
1620.
i.e.
flat
countr)-.
^ See the descriptions by PouUet and Pococke of the country between Adrianople and Constantinople, quoted in notes on pp. 46 and 48. ^ Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 30, " Before a Man descends into that Plain that is over against Philippopolis, he must go through a Forest."
Des Hayes has Basargicq vide called Tatar Bazarjik. Compare Poullet, Nou7>elles Relations dii Levant, F. vol. i. p. 177, "Tatar bazargik, un des plus gros bourgs, ou il y a un des plus beaux Caravanserails que j'eusse point veu en Turquie, avec une belle horloge qui sonne, et qui d^couvre la reverie de ceux qui
*
Still
Appendix
n'y ayant presque pas un disent que I'Alcoran defend les cloches Turc de consideration qui n'aie une montre sonnante, avec son reveilmatin." In his map Poullet spells Tatar Bazarjik, Thatar basardgin and, in a map of 181 1 (B.M. 43315. 18), the place appears as TzaparBazarjik.
;
;
villages, named in the text Yengheekeoy and seem to have been pretty freely mixed up by the old travellers. Thus (1621), Des Hayes {vide Appendix F) calls them In a map of 1650 (B.M. 43315. 9) they also Janicoli or Novocelo. appear as Janicoli or Novocelo. Poullet, in his map (165S), names them Novathelo and Lebevitha. A map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) Half a century later a map of 1744 gives Jancoli and Novoceylo. (B.M. 28195. -2) has Novaithelai and Yesnikoi. Taylor, Travels
Yelkeeoy,
from England
of 181
1
to India in 1789, vol. ii. p. 310, has Senichoi. A map (B.M. 43315. 18) gives Novoselo. Kiepert's map of 1853 Lastly, a map of 1856 (B.M. (B.M. 43315. 8) has Nawoselo. In the most modern maps only one 43315. 30) gives Nowi Khan. village, Novi Khan, or Yeni Khan, appears. Confusion in the names of oriental villages is quite common, especially in hilly country, and there is nothing unusual in the discrepancies noticed above. The names appear to refer to two separate villages or to detached parts of the same village in the vernacular or translated forms. Yengi kytcy means in Turkish "the new
village."
6l
Troopes
of
robbers
the spoyle of
Passengers^,
by reason of which
their
offer,
my
occasion should
but
God bee
praised, there
was none.
Att six miles end wee came to Yelkeeoy*, a village of
poore Christians, and four miles further, to Cappeekeoy^
an other poore
village,
where
is
Betwene
theis
two
villages^,
wee mett
man
beatinge on
travellers
purpose to advise
in the
most
i.e.
These are from three to five thousand thick v/oods on their tops and sides.
2
the slopes of the Balkans, separating Rumelia from Bulgaria. feet high, and are covered with
and
uninhabited spots, not necessarily without vegetation. Pindar were now traversing the Pass of Kapulu Derbend, or Pass of the Gate (Mpi, gate, derbend, pass) so named from the Trajan Gate, the last remains of which were demolished in 1855.
i.e.
his party
3 The conditions have not much altered since Mundy's time, for guides were, at any rate until quite lately, hired at Tatar Bazarjik to protect the traveller from the danger of brigands among the passes of the Balkans.
*
^
See note
on
p. 60.
The modern Kapuli. This place has been known under various spellings. Des Hayes (1621) has Capili Dervent (see Appendix F).
PouUet, in his map (1658), has VasiHta Capili Kioi. A map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) has Capigi Derrene. Another map of 1744 (B.M. In Kiepert's map of 1867 28195. 22) has Capitschik or Temircap. (B.M. 43305. 54) the place appears as Kapoulou Derbend.
^
note,
"Thermopilae conceaved
Mundy
Voyage into the Levant, quoted in Appendix A. Des Hayes has Ictiman see Appendix F. Poullet, in his map, has Kivan pachnum, and, in a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) the place is given as Hischtimon. ^ Here the author has a marginal note, "And hereabouts is the Mountain Rodope, River Strimon, where Orpheus lived etts. Vid:
See Blount,
*
fol.
I."
Mundy
is
Vide Appendix
k..
62
in Sight.
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Of this dayes
rest
The
2Qth.
May,
1620.
Wee came
to
the Cittie of
drummer, there beinge an other daungerous place, where Companies have bene robd and killed. Att Our approach
wee sawe a great number of Tents, makeinge a gallant shewe, which wee understood belonged to the Beglerbeg of Gretia^, now bound to the Black Sea against the CasAppendix
See the accounts of Sophia by Des Hayes and Blount in A and Appendix F. Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 27, " Sophia is a Town big enough, and well inhabited both by Citizens and Strangers: It was heretofore the Royal Seat of the King of Bulgaria." Compare also PouUet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. p. 168, " Sophie est plus petite qu'Orleans, quoy qu'elle soit la Capitale et le siege du Bacha de la Romelia, boiieuse dans tous ces dehors, ou la bont^ du terrain laisse un acces fort desagreable, mais assez raisonnablement batie par dedans, avec quantity de maisons, lesquelles ont une cymetrie fort approchante a celle des
^
nostres."
map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) gives Sophia as Sophia Triadizza or Sardica; and a map of 181 1 (B.M. 43315. 18) has Scopia.
the Viceroy of Rumelia. The title begler-begi, Bey of Beys, to the governors-general of Rumelia {Rinneli, the country of the Greeks) and Anatolia. Compare the following contemporary allusions to the province and the official "The Degrees of the Turks. ...On the sixt step of 1607. honour is the Bashaw lifted up, who is a principall Viceroy. ..and according to the dignity and majesty of the place called Beglerbeg ? Lat. mansio, a these are every three yeeres mansuold [a puzzle journey, march possibly a corruption of Ar. and Turk. 7nanzil\ that Gainsford, Glory of England, p. 202. is to say remooved." 1610. "Greece, tearmed by the Turkes, Rum Hi, that is, the Romane Country: It is ruled by a Beglerbeg or Bassa....This Beglerbeg of Greece is the greatest Commaunder of all other Bassaes Lithgow, Paitiefidl Peregrinain the Turkish Provinces of Europe."
^
i.e.
tions, p.
73.
:
of which there are "Beglerbeg signifieth Lord of Lords 1616. wont to be two one in Europe, another in Asia but by Solyman increased, that though Romania and Natolia have still the chiefe Purchas, Pilgrijnage, p. 292. titles, yet in Europe are foure others." 1621. "Tous les Beglerbeis s'appellent communement Bashas. Or, Bascha, qui en Turc veut dire teste, est une qualite que les principaux de I'Estat prennent, lors qu'ils ont exerc^ quelque gouverne;
:
ment. Mais Beglerbey, s'entend d'un gouvernement general de Province, que le grand Seigneur donne pour tant et si peu qu'il luy Des plaist: et ce mot de Beglerbey signifie Seigneur des Seigneurs." Hayes, Voiage de Levant, p. 45. "There are two Beglierbegs (that is to say Lord of Lords) 1635.
63
much molest
the Turkes
in a plaine^, there
being
The
7.\st.
Beglerbeg
att a
May, 1620. His Lordshipp went to visitt the howse hee had within the Cittie, where,
after salutations
on each
rest.
side, there
It is
was
a drincke
made
this
of Sugar, Juice of
Lemmons and
Lawe
only
forbiddinge
them wyne
the
poorer
sort
drinke
in
waters
CompleIn the
sett upp,
Romania or Greece, the other of Natolia or Asia the lesse." Grimston, The History of the Iniperiall Estate of the Grand Seigneurs, See also Blount's remarks on the "Beglerbeg of Greece" p. 169. quoted in Appendix A.
^ The ravages of the Cossacks along the southern coasts of the Black Sea had become a serious menace to the peace of the empire during the reign of Ahmad L In 1613 they surprised and devastated
The plain is watered by the river I sea. Compare the following contemporary remarks on this beverage "Water mixed with honey, which they call sherbert." Gainsford,
:
Glory of England,
p. 203.
"Above the rest (of drinkes) they [the Turks] esteeme Sherbets made with Sugar, the Juyce of Lemmons, Peaches, Apricocks, Violets,
or other Flowers, Fruits, and Plumbes as each country affoords these are dryed together into a consistence reasonable hard, and portable for theire use in warre, or else-where, mingling about a spoonefuU with a quart of water." Blount, Voyage into the Levant,
;
p. 105.
" Une certaine composition qu'ils appellent chorbet, fait de sucre, de jus de limon, d'essence de violette, de rose, de jasmin, ou de quelques autres odeurs laquelle se conserve des annees entieres dans des pots de fayance parce qu'elle n'est pas en liqueur. Elle ressemble a la durete de notre castonnade on en delaye une ou deux cueillerdes dans une grande tassde d'eau, quand on s'en veut servir."
et
: ; ;
Poullet, Relations du Levaiit, vol. i. p. 109. See also Grimston's description of " Sorbet."
p.
141
p.
90.
64
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
to us appeared a horse taile
Which
dyed redd\
Other sort
For
att
my
1 The Turkish honorary distinction of a Standard of one to seven Horse-tails arose out of the old Turkman custom of grantingthe right to display a Standard of one or more Yak-tails as a reward to officers of high rank for exceptional military services. The earliest mention of it among the Osmanli Turks appears to be in 1288 A.D., when Osman I. received from the Seljuki Sultan Alau'ddin III. the following insignia a banner, a drum, a robe, a sword and a horse-tail Vide D'Oksza, Histoire by way of recognition of his importance. de VEinpire Ottoman, vol. i. p. 35, and Von Hammer, Histoire de VEnipire Ottomatt, vol. i. p. 75. Vide also Irvine, Army of the Indian Moghuls, p. 34 f. Compare Delia Valle and Tournefort for the popular stories of the origin of the Horse-tail Standard "Six Capigis Bassis, qui sont les Capitaines des Portiers du Grand Seigneur marchoient en suite a cheval avec chaque Compagnie de Capigis, qui precedoient les Estendarts Imperiaux, trois desquels ne sont que des queues de cheval, au bout de trois lances assez longues et I'on dit que cette coutume n'est introduite que depuis qu'en une certaine bataille, apr^s que I'Estendart fut pris par les ennemis, un simple soldat coupa la queue de son cheval, et fit merveilles, I'ayant attach^e au bout d'une demipicque. lis s'en sont toujours servis comme d'un symbole d'honneur, en memoire d'une si belle action quoy que I'on die que c'est chez les Romains que cela s'est fait et que les Turcs ne s'en servent qu'k leur imitation. Quoy qu'il en soit, c'est un de leurs principaux Estendarts et quand le Premier Bassa va faire la guerre par I'ordre du grand Seigneur, on en porte toujours trois devant luy, au lieu que devant les autres Chefs inferieurs...I'on n'en porte qu'un." Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 140 f. "The Grand Vizier is preceded by three Horse-tails, on the top of each of which is a gilded Apple this is the Military Ensign of the Ottomans, which they call Thou or Thouy itugh). For a certain General of this Nation, they say, being at a plunge to rally his Troops, who had lost all their Standards, thought of this Device, to cut off a Horse's Tail, and erect it on the point of a Lance the Soldiers flock'd to this new Ensign, and came off with Victory." Facing page 20, Tournefort, A Voyage into the Levant, vol. ii. p. 20. there is an illustration of "A Turkish Standard or Horse-Tail, call'd Q^Xi^iXid,, Journal, vol. i. p. 125 f. has a full in Turkey Hou or Houy."
description of the Turkish "thou" and the story of its origin. Relation of the Grajid Signior's Compare also Tavernier, Seraglio, vol. ii. p. 88 f., " The Entrance into Constantinople of the
Sultaness on the Second of July 1668. ...The Order of the March.... There appear'd afterwards Six Capigis, about the first Coach.... They had each of them a Launce in his hand and in the Rear of
;
whereby
2
it
Horse-tail-Banner, of a pale-red colour, was known, that some Bassa's were coming up.''
From
found
in the
end of the paragraph is an addition not copy at the British Museum. Harl. MS., 2286.
65
rawe
The
said
Ambassader was
whereof
received into the Cittie with a very great, rich and warHke
foote, the latter all Janizaries^,
whereon he carried
his
Gunn
And amonge
theire troops
were sundry
some fowle, the head of some beast and other figures, somewhat resemblinge the manner wee see deciphered by Picture in Romaine Battailes. The 22nd. May, 1620. Beinge two miles in our way from Sophia, wee were overtaken by a Chiawsh^ and twenty Jannizaries with nine waggons, bound for Buda"*,
1 The "Persian Ambassador" was Burun Kasim (Kasim of the Nose), who was sent by Shah 'Abbas to Constantinople in 1618 to confirm the terms of peace between Persia and the Porte. His visit is thus described in the Annals of Naima, vol. i. p. 466, " The Arrival In the month of Jemadi I. [a.H. 1026, of a Persian ambassador. A.D. 161 7] the Persian ambassador, Burun Kasim, sometimes called Kasim Beg, but, in his credentials, All Sultan Khallfeh, arrived at Scutari with one hundred loads of silk, four elephants, and one From rhinoceros, with, other gifts for the emperor of the Ottomans. Scutari he passed over to the imperial city, and was lodged in the His letter to the emperor specified, in all its palace of Pertev Pasha. The various ramifications, the treaty signed by KhalTl Pasha." accuracy of Mundy is therefore curiously confirmed.
See note 2 on p. 43. Turkish chawush, now- a -days a minor military officer, a Compare Gainsford, sergeant, but in Mundy's time a high official. Glory of England, p. 201 f., "The Degrees of the Turks. The fift roome is supplyed by the Chiaus, a degree of honourable eminence For they ride in velvet gownes, and may ranke with our Barons. silver-plated saddles, costly stirrups, and rich turbans." Compare also Knolles, Historie of the Turkes, p. 1393, "The Grand Seignior hath also certaine officers attending on him to the number of three thousand, whom they call Chiaus, which are as it were sergeant at amies. These are men well esteemed and are often employed in Embassies to forreine Princes They also carry letters and commendations from the Prince or his chiefe Vizier, and they apprehend offenders. These never goe to the Warre but when the Sultan is there in person. They are commanded by a Chiaus Bassa."
2
Then
in the
Turkish Empire.
66
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
Begler-
troublesome
and
wearisome
little village,
weather continueinge
night,
my
and Children.
2'i,rd.
Tke
miles)*, a
May, 1620. Wee came to Zarekeeoy (8 greate Towne, where wee remained that afterdirtie
as
alsoe
likelyhood
busines requiring
Castle,
more rayne. But the us, and went forward, their In this Towne was a small
of
river.
Water
that
is
imedeatly
good
1620.
Mill.
The
2^th.
May,
See note 2 on p. 62. For a description of the country between Nissa and Sophia see
Zaribrod. The author's distances are rather misleading here. Apparently he means that Zaribrod was ten miles from the place where Pindar's train dined and not from Sophia, the last town mentioned.
and the
Pirot or Sharkoi, the former being the Bulgarian Des Hayes has the Turkish name of the place. Cherquioi (see Appendix F), and Pouilet, in his map, has Charkioi. Compare Taylor, Travels fro7n England to India in 1789, vol. ii. Here you have fine plains and the rest woods." p. 309, " Schiarchioi. In a map of 1830 (B.M. 43625. i) the place appears as Csarda.
*
The modern
latter
See note
on
p. 43.
6/
haveinge a
Spahees^ or horsemen, wee proceeded (25 miles), my Lord Commaundment from the Gran Signior to all
As
also to furnish
as hee should
But
my
Lord
in
listed, as
etts.,
but blowes^.
Wee came
as
Chisme
(15 miles),
much
abandoned of
by
Turks grindeing
their verie
bones^, for
all
make by
Compare Gainsford, Glory of England, p. 201, the Turks. ...The fourth place is appropriate to are inferior horsemen, with high fathers in their strange fashioned hats, somewhat more glorious than the Janizaries, their arming as also the Janizary, keepes some correspondency with the Persian." Compare also Knolles, Historic of the Tiirkes, p. 1391, "The Turks forces. ...His horsemen consist of Spahi.. .these are Christian slaves bred up yong in the Princes Seraglio, who by their merits attaine to that degree."
^
Stpdhi, sepoy.
year.
The same protection was afforded to Des Hayes in the following Twenty mounted Turks guarded the Frenchman's party from
See Appetidix F. See Keppel, Narrative of a four?tey across the Balca?t, vol. i. p. 439, for similar commandeering of goods from Christians by the Turks in 1830. * Turkish qiirut chesine, dried-up spring. The inhabitants had returned to the village when Des Hayes passed through it in 162
^
{vide Appendix F). Des Hayes calls the place Cruchismet. A map of 1650 (B.M. 43315. 9) gives Cruchisnat, and a map of 1690 (B.M. Poullet, in his map (1658), has Kourou 43315- 3) gives Cruschimit. Thehaemech. Kiepert's map of 1853 (B.M. 43315. 8) calls the place Krouschvitza.
^ See Lithgow, Painefull Peregrinations, p. 152, for Turkish oppression of Christians. See also the remarks of Des Hayes in
Appendix
F.
68
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
is
hardly enough to
in
Slaves.
From thence wee came to another village of Christians, named Palanca (5 miles)\ where is a certen fence made of boughes of trees woven on great Stakes, as wee make our
frithes^, clapt
betwene beinge
for the wall
;
fill'd
serves
and soe
all
people hereabouts to
retire
doe
Hungarie^
Here
is
Appendix
'*
F.
is
incorrect in assigning the district around Nissa which he refers was in Servia. By mean a Christian land. Des Hayes, Voyage de Levant, p. 26 f., gives the extent of Hungary in 1621 as. " Le Royaume de Hongrie a este cogneu des anciens. follows
The author
69
May,
to
1620.
way
waie
and noe
being mountainous,
and stoney^.
Soe
my
gratification,
my
conducted us hitherto,
written in Turkish
by
it.
signior
Dominico^ with
my
Lords
soe
hande and
stonie
seale to
The
rest of the
soe dangerous
and
mountainous, yett
it
and
dirtie,
even to Nice
selfe.
Heere
is
a bridge
II est borne du coste de Midy sous le nom de la basse Panonie. Au par la Save, qui le divise de la Servie, et de la Croatie. II Septentrion il est separe de la Pologne par les monts Carpatiens. a I'Autriche, la Moravia, et la Stirie au Couchant, et au Levant la Transilvanie et la Servie." Lithgow had a very low opinion of the Hungarians. Compare his Painefull Peregri7iations, p. 414 f., "The Hungarians have ever been thistuous, treacherous and false, so that there one brother will hardly trust another, which infidelity among themselves and distracted deceitfuU governours, was the chiefest Cause of their overthrow and subjection under Infidels."
1 The modern Nisch, or Nissa. In a map of 1690 (B.M. 43335. 3) the place is called Nizza, and in one of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22) it appears as Naissus.
2 Pindar and his train were now traversing a pass over the Balkans. Compare Taylor, Travels from England to India in 1789, Here you pass through a very dangerous vol. ii. p. 309, " Nissa. Country, being all woods and infested with robbers." See also the remarks of Des Hayes on the road to Nissa in Appendix F.
^ *
an account of
this
man.
Nissava.
^ " I say the River is called Nicea haveing a bridge over it." Des Hayes calls the river "Nice" or Author's marginal no'te. " Nichava." He says that it separates Servia from Bulgaria, Nisch being then under the government of Buda and the country on the See other side of the river under the Governor of Greece.
Appendix F. Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey^ p. 21, "At a small Distance from Jagodna, we met with a little River which the Neighbouring Inhabitants called Nissus, and we kept it on our right Hand
70
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
26th. Ditto.
About seven
at
wee
good
And
in a
and
of woods.
2yth.
The
May, Anno
1620.
Wee
past
by Paracheeno
wee
is
(6 miles)*, a
least
in
to
Yagola (10
:
where
almost
all the Way till we came to Nissa; yea, and beyond the Town, upon the Bank thereof were there some Remains of an old Roman
Way. ...As
one,
Town of Nissa, for that Country, it is a decent of inhabitants." Compare also PouUet, Nouvelles Relations dn Levant, vol. i. p. 164, " Nous continuames de suivre nostre route par des mar^cages, quantite d'arbres, quelques petits villages par Nissa petite ville,
for the
and
full
donne son nom k Nissava petite riviere, et par les detours du fond d'une seconde montagne." See also Blount's account of " Nisse" quoted in Appendix A.
laquelle
^
See
p. 66.
Des Hayes
of
Raschnia.
Khan. See note i on p. 46 and note 5 on p. 52. The modern Paratjin or Parachin Palanka, and the Paraquin of Poullet, in his map, has Pachin Des Hayes (vide Appendix F).
3 *
palankassi.
"
The Morava. Compare Poullet, Nouvelles Relations dn Levaiit, vol. Nous arrivames apres deux jours et demy de chemin sur
5
i.
p. 164,
le
bord
d'une grosse riviere nommde la Morava... nous fusmes tout un jour a trav'erser ce flieuve sur des batteaux." Des Hayes had a similar experience i(uide Appendix F).
tained
Yagodin or Jagodina. Des Hayes says that this town conmore Turks than Christians in 162 1. Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 20, "After we had past the River called Morava, we came to a Town of the Servians,
^ i.e.
named Jagodna." Compare also Poullet, Nouvelles Relations du p. 164, "Nous passasmes au travers de quantite de
;
Levafit, vol. i. bois fort epais, d'une montagne... qui fait en cet endroit un defile de peu de longueur, et qui s'elargit en une plaine vers sa fin au commencement de laquelle paroist Yagodena, gros bourg."
May,
1620.
Haveinge dined
to
att
Batachin
miles)^
Casanpasha Palanca
name
of one of those
wooden Fortifications ^ of which sort this was the fairest wee sawe hetherto, haveinge Turretts of boards, which made a very handsome shewe we lodged in a large Cane. The 2gth. May, 1620. Att this Towne (Colare, 13 miles)* is another Palanca, from whence (haveing dined), wee came to Gratsco (13 miles)^, scituate on the River
:
Danubius**,
stone
Canes,
but
my
Lord pitched
Towne.
were
fifteen that
The modern Batotschina and the Baticina of Des Hayes, who it a Christian village {vide Appendix F). PouUet, in his map, has Deveh Bayoj. A map of 1680 (B.M. 28160. 2) has Barakin. A
calls
of 1720 (B.M. 27730. i) has Potitschina. A map of 1744 (B.M. map of 181 1 (B.M. 43315. 18) has Rat28195. 22) has Patazin. shina ; and, in a map of 1830 (B.M. 43625. i) the place appears as Devibagardan. Compare the Attnals of Naima, vol. i. p. 17, "After passing through Philippopolis and Sophia [in 1602], he (the Grand Vizir, Siran Pasha) caused a palanka and an inn to be erected at a place called Batchina in the district of Yaghodina, a dangerous and
map
and exposed to banditti." Hassan Pasha's Palanka. Des Hayes calls it "la Palanque de Hassem Bascha " and says it was inhabited by an equal number of Turks and Christians in 1621 {vide Appendix F). A map of 1830 (B.M. 43625. i) has Hassan Paschina Palanka. The place is now known as Hassan Palanka or merely Palanka.
difficult pass,
2
i.e.
2 *
See note
that,
on
in
1
p. 68.
Des Hayes calls the place Cola contained more Turks than Christians. Poullet, in his map, has Cola palankassi, thus confirming the author's statement as to the existence of a palangha at this place. In a map of 1744 (B.M. 28195. 22), the place appears as Koiar.
or KuUar.
it
and says
621,
Grotzka, on the Danube. Des Hayes says that " Grosca," called by the Turks "Ichargic" \i.e. Hissar ^tic/iuk], means "little castle" In two maps of 1720 the place appears as {vide Appendix F). Grusca Icargie and Isardschick Krotzka in a map of 1744 it is Krozka, and in one of 1830 it is called Stolnaz or Groczka. ^ " Danuhius, the most famous river of Europe, vid fol: i." Author's marginal note. Mundy is referring to his extracts from Blount's Voyage into the Levant., for which see Appendix A. < See p. 55. Impaling was still practised in 1830 (see Keppel, Narrative of a Jotcrney across the Balcan, vol. i. p. 458), but the victims were first shot.
'"
72
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
fifty
rest escaped.
Wee came
to
the
Cittie
of
Heere
my
Lord
daies.
some few
The 31^"/. May, 1620. My Lord went to visitt the Caddee^ which is a Justice amongst the Turkes, where haveinge stayed one hower, hee departed, and went through the Cittie to the River side, where takeinge boate, wee
past
There
ride
Cables of
makeinge as
faire a
shewe
afarr of as they
were handsome
1 Here Mundy again refers to "Fol: i" of his MS., containing For these see Appendix A. In his Blount's remarks on Belgrade. Index, the author defines Belgrade as "A Citty in Hungary under the Turck." See PouUet, Nouvelles Relations du Levajtt, vol. i. p. 129, for a short description of Belgrade. Pindar's train occupied twenty-five days in the journey from Constantinople to Belgrade, a distance of six hundred and twenty-seven See note 6 on p. 45. miles, an average of twenty-one miles a day.
2 See Poullet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. p. 162, for an account of Turkish vehicles of transit and the discomfort endured in them. ^ i.e. the kdzl or kddi. Compare Des Hayes, 'Voyage de Levant, p. 60, " Pendant le sejour que nous fismes a Belgrade, le Sieur Deshayes alia voir plusieurs fois le Mola Cady, appelle Habil efifendi, qui est le Juge de la ville." *
still
exist in the
neighbourhood of Belgrade.
17, "I... passed down Belgrade. ...In my Passage down the River. ..there were many Water-Mills, with several Trunks and Boughs of Trees hanging over the Banks." Compare also Des Hayes, Voyage de Levant, p. 60, " Les moulins qui sont au milieu de I'eau (sur le Danube de Bude k Belgrade), et qui sont grandement dangereux." See also Blount's remarks on the mills at Belgrade, quoted in Appendix A, and Major Keppel's remarks on the Floating Mills on the Maritza in 1829 {Narrative of a Journey across the Balcafi, vol. i. p. 144). On the Adige, at Verona, in the present day, there are still floating mills, such as are here described by the author.
into Turkey, p.
the
73
things resemblinge
forepart,
all
which are
yards broad,
meane
Theie
made
aloft
in the
Currant.
The
river
etts.,
is
abundant
in
fish,
as
Sturgeons,
is
Carpes, Pikes,
incredible^
almost
of June, 1620. Wee went to see the Cittie, beinge scituate on a poynte where the River Saba"^ runneth
The
first
into Danubius,
which
is
The
Cittie
conteynes about
generally
made
of Boards,
Howsoever,
"At
Belgrade,
into
Turkey,
p. 85,
upon one of our Fish-days, we were presented with abundance of choice Fish, and amongst the rest, with large full-bodied Carps, taken in the Danube, whose Carps are very much commended... yet all that quantity of Fish, which was enough to satisfy forty Men, cost but half
a Dollar."
also PouUet, Noiivelles Relations dn Levant, vol. i. 135 f., " Un patissier Turc me fournissoit de bon pain, et du meilleur poisson de cette riviere, qui n'a pas la chair ferme comme celuy des nostres quoy qu'ils n'ait que de tres-grosses carpes, de beaux brochets et de grands esturgeons, et m'en envoyoit de passablement bien appreste, plus que moy et mon valet n'en pouvions pas manger, pour vingt sols par jour, du prix de la monnoye de France." See also Appendix F for similar remarks by Des Hayes.
p.
;
Compare
^ *
i.e.
29, y]
and
53.
Compare
"
Mr
the following quaint allusion to the Khatts of Turkey in Stampes observations in his Voyage to Constantinople and
thence overland to Ragusa in 1609," Stowe MS. 180, fol. 30, "The first night wee came to a Towne called Biux Cegnige [Biyuk Chekmeje] where wee lay in a stable, the next. ..at Celebrea [Silivri] in the stable,
; :
74
those
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
faire
1620.
The
Castle
is
(if
not cheife):
Two
faire
much
Cittie,
were an other
the
etts.,
all
dwellers
fort,
Turkes'^.
But on the
hill
many
other fortificais
outer wall.
all
There
alsoe
heard over
none used
it
that
wee could
heare^: but
is
likely that
remained over
grade
itito Turkey^ p. 18, "As for Belseated at the confluence of the Save and the Danow the old City is built in the extreme Angel of the Promontory, the Building is old, it is fortified with many Towers, and a double Wall Two parts of it are wash'd by the Save and the Danow, but on that part where it is joined to the Land, it hath a very strong Castle on high Ground, consisting of many loftly Turrets made of square Stone before you come into the City, there is a vast Number of Buildings, and very large Suburbs, wherein several Nations inhabit, viz. Turks, Greeks, Jews, Hungarians, Dalmatians and many others." 2 The fortress is now only a ruin. See Appettdix A and Appendix F for the remarks of Blount and Des Hayes about the Castle at Belgrade. Compare Poullet, Noitvelles Relations du Levant^ vol. i. p. 127 f., " Ce Fort (a Belgrade)... est construit a I'usage des Grecs, et presque dans la mesme cymetrie que sont les anciennes murailles de nos villes, sinon que les tours n'y sont pas si grosses, ni si bien flanqu^es que parmi nous, et qu'elles ont par tout des creneaux au lieu d'embrazures."
in Turkey, note 4 on p. 60. the Levaftt, Part i. p. 51, "The Turks... though they be great lovers of Clocks and Watches, they'l not take them. ..if they have any Figures of Men, Women, or Beasts upon them but they matter it not, if they be of Trees or flowers." English " grandfather " clocks are nowadays to be found in every mosque in
3
Constantinople.
* Belgrade was taken by Sulaiman the Magnificent on the 20th August, 1 52 1.
75
There are
boates
for
salt
carrieing
is
too
and
froe
Corne, wood,
salt,
etts.
The
Mountaines
exceedeth
boats,
in
Wee
Amonge
Stronge
The
6th.
June, 1620.
difficultie
for
Towne, only those newely arrived from other parts. This place is under the Basha of Buda^, himselfe residinge there,
haveinge heere his Deputie, called Caymalcam*^, (being the
^ Great quantities of rock-salt were extracted from the district of Saros, in Hungary, in the sixteenth and early part of the seventeenth centuries, but, towards the end of this period, the quarries were inundated by salt springs.
Ferdinand II., 1619 1637. Kaniza, on the Theiss, a tributary of the Drave, was taken by the Turks on the 22 October, 1600. Here the author has a marginal note, "Taken by Mahomet 3rd. aboutt Anno 1600. KnoUes, Turky Hist: p. 1 130: vid." The account of the siege of Kaniza is, as Mundy says, given by KnoUes in his Historic of the Ttirkes, pp. 11 30
2
1 1
32.
the Annals of Naitna, vol. i. pp. 188, 194 and 195, "The forty-two pieces of cannon and five falconets which had been taken in the trenches were most beautifully ornamented by art, each being of considerable value... .The whole of the cannon and arms were transported by order of the Pasha into the fortress of Kaniza... .Three full months were spent in collecting and bringing into Kaniza the cannon, arms, ammunition, tents, &c. which the enemy had left behind them." A full account of the siege is given in the same work, p. 168 ff.
* See Des Hayes {Appendix F) for the cost of hiring horses in his journey across Turkey.
^ ^
Compare
See note 4 on
p. 65.
KaHmmakam,
deputy governor.
76
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
of
his
office
name
or
deputieshipp).
his
Willson^ hcensed
Constantinople.
Tadux^,
Servant,
returne
to
Common
sort of
whom
departure
him a
wife of the
It
beinge
Custome much
And
the Bulgarians
Armenians
Soe,
them
in that kinde.
now
would carry her alonge with him, haveinge allready gotten her owne (with her father and mothers) consent. Thus the
poore Christians trade, although they never sawe nor heard
of each other before.
The manner
could learne,
in
is
of theis poore
Bulgarians as farr as
the
Men
generally Labourers,
for the
cloathed
Russett.
weomen
in
most part
in
theire haire,
upon
many
de Levant^ pp. 39 and 45, " Ce fut a Strigogne que nous apprismes I'ordre que le Caimacam avoit donne de faire desfrayer le Sieur Deshayes aux despens du grand Seigneur... le Sieur Des-hayes desira de visiter le Caimacam en I'absence du Bascha." Compare also Knolles, Histo?-ie of the Turkes, pp. 141 1 and 1457, "The Embassadour... desiring them that he would leave him a particular recommendation to the Chimacham or Deputy... .The Spahees... discontent with the government of the old Chimacham." See also Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 77.
1
i.e.
p.
41.
p.
43.
yj
holes
Alsoe
in theire
att least
They goe
smocksleeves,
which are very wide and wrought, although not very fine, and barefooted. The married weomen differ in this they
:
any
village,
theie
many
in the
Embers.
Also
etts.^,
among them
after they
and
if
theis villages,
had brought us of theire provisions, then would they gather together younge Weomen and Children, and
holding hand in hand
in
daunce
^ Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 27 f., " The Habit of these Bulgarian Women. They commonly wear nothing but a Smock or Shift, made of no finer Linnen-thread, than what we make Sacks of. And yet, these coarse Garments are wrought by them, with several sorts of strip'd Needle-work, after a homely Fashion With this lose party-coloured Habit they mightily pleased themselves, so that when they saw our Shifts, made of the finest Linnen, yet they wondered at our Modesty, that we could be contented to wear them without various' Works of divers Colours wrought in them. But that which I most of all admired in them, was the Tower, which they wore on their Heads. ..in that Space interjacent between their upper and lower Part, they hang Pieces of Coin, little Pictures or Images, small Parcels of painted Glass, or whatever is resplendent, though never so mean, which are accounted very ornamental among them."
:
^ Compare Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 27, "We continued our Journey, for many Days, through the pleasant, and not unfruitful Valley of Bulgaria all the Time we were in that Country, we had little other Bread but only Cakes bak'd under Ashes upon the Hearth which they call Togatch. The Women and Maids sell them, for they have no Bakers in those parts and when they perceive any Guests a-coming, that are likely to pay for what they have, presently they knead a little Dough, with Water, without any Leaven, and lay it upon Tiles, under the Ashes, and so bring it out piping hot, and sell them for a very small matter other Victuals is also very cheap there, a good Weather-sheep may be bought for thirty-five Aspers a Chicken and a Hen for an Asper, a sort of Coin with them of which fifty make but a Crown."
;
78
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
Wee
Too day
Exceedinge
The
'^th.
June, 1620.
the day,
after
two myles
lodginge
and remained
(^th.
The
June, 1620.
From
our aforesaid
feild
wee came by Noone to a great Towne called Valliano (10 miles)^ where by a Rivers side*, which had two bridges,
my
Lord pitched
his
tent.
men
to
watch with us
for
somewhat
at
dangerous
Theeves^
farthinge a pound.
The
upp our lodginge in the Feilds. This dayes travell proved some what easie, in regard the day was not very hott of it selfe, and the next, our waie beinge through shadie woods
^ Compare Busbequius, Travels info Turkey, p. 29, " They [the Bulgarians] use the Illyrian, or Slavonian Tongue, as the Servians and Rascians [District E. of Herzegovina, now Novibazar] also do."
2 i.e. 3
Teodoro.
See
p. 43.
or Valievo. See Blount's remarks on this Mundy from this point to Spalato place quoted in Appe7idix A. becomes very difficult, and at times impossible, to follow, and seems to have frequently misjudged the distances in the mountains.
* The Kolubara, a tributary of the Save. From Belgrade the road follows the banks of the Save for some ten miles and then turns southwards into the valley of the Kolubara and its several affluents. ^ See Appendix A for when passing through this
79
tains \
which exceeded
all
sawe
for height
and
the
by degrees,
Topps being
as
good ground
as the
full
bottome and as
firtill,
of prettie swellings,
vallies of alP.
Yett lyes
this pleasant
peece of Countrey in
saveinge some
manner
waste, and
exceeding high
trees, as
make
To-
wards
.the end,
rest,
wee descended a
hill
much more
steepie
then the
Rock of an
incredible height
and
steepienesse*,
betwene
wee found such quantitie of good ripe Strawburryes as none of our Companie ever sawe the like, soe that a man might
gather them by handfuUs in a manner, Alsoe manie wilde
taines."
shadie woods, most pleasant, firtill, aspiring MounAuthor's marginal note. Pindar's train was now entering the mountain system of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the various chains of which connect the Dinaric Alps with the Albanian. They consist of short ridges and plateaus, generally running from N.W. to S.E., rising from 3000 to 5000 feet in height. Their slopes are covered with forests of pine, oak and beech. In a map of 1830 (B.M. 43625. i) In a map of 1892 (B.M. they are called the Zarugie Mountains. 44250. 13) the elevated land (alp) west of Valjevo is called the Radjevo Planina and the Maljevo Planina.
1 2 The route followed on this day, after leaving Valjevo, seems to have been up the Jablanitza, over the Medvednjik Planina, and down
" Faire
the Ljubowija.
^
this district in
Appendix A.
of 1712 (B.M., K. 113. 15) the Crance Mountains are marked between the Kolubara and the Drina Rivers, and, in a map of 1876 (B.M., S. 238. 13), two peaks, named Jablanck and Medvednjik (3090 feet high), are marked in the same district, with a tributary of
*
map
the Drina between them. Here the author has a marginal note,
"A
steepie, ragged,
Rockye
mountaine."
^
?The Ljubowija.
8o
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
I
in
past, the
on
little
Spriggs,
Whether
1620.
it
was
this
day or noe
to
am
not
sure.
The
iitk. June,
(8
Wee came
the
River of
formerly
cleire,
Dreena
miles) ^,
Saba-,
ferried over by boate. Goeinge wee came to a small brooke betwene two Hills, where wee dined and past the heat of the day. Neere to this place wee past by certaine howses and Mills (11 miles), which serve for the worke of a silver Myne in
six
them is a Cane, but wee pitched by it. The \2tJ1. June, 1620. In ascendinge the Mountaine (Ravena)^ wee found it much higher then wee expected,
beinge by computation about eight miles ascendinge and
Wee
^
The The
(B.M. 4040.
2
Drina. In the Itinerary of le Sieur Quiclet, 1657 1658 i), there is the remark, " Drin, riviere, porte iDatteaux."
Save.
These statements are difficult. They seem to refer to the Drina and Jadar Rivers, and to Srebreniza (jT^^r<? = silver), the site of the ancient silver, copper and lead mines.
3 4
i),
the
M. Romana of a map of 1687 (B.M., K. 113, 34) and the Romanja (Romania) Planina of Blau's map, Ronten in Bosnia unci Herzegovina, 1876.
^ Compare Poullet's remarks on the road from Bosna Serai to Belgrade, Noiivelles Relations dii Levant, vol. i. pp. 123 and 125 f., " A une petite journee de Bosna, je me trouvay engage au milieu des montagnes, qui sont fort hautes en ces quartiers, et estoient encore couvertes de neiges.... Pendant huit ou dix jours que nous restames pour arriver a Bellegrade....Je n'y vis que de mechans villages, aupres desquels nous couchames, ou dans des Hans, ou a la campagne.,..On voit a deux journees de Bosna une petite riviere presque guayable par tout, appellee Yadra."
8
all
made
thinge
The
From
way
to the Cittie of
Bosna Sarae, seven miles farther^, very mountainous and rockyl This Cittie lyeth among the
Hills'*,
the
Marchants
of
this
my
for
wee gott other horses, the former being diswhome wee paid aspers'' 200 each from
which were the
villages
and
2 Bosna Serai, the modern Sarajevo. This place, the ancient Tiberiopolis, derives its name from the Seraglio or palace built by Muhammad II. In a map of 1720 (B.M. 44250. 4) it is called Saraio, Sarayevo, Bosna Saraie, Bosna Argentina or Bistue Nova. See Blount's remarks on the place in Appendix A, and Mundy's comments thereon. Sarajevo is 122 miles south-west of Belgrade. Pindar and his train accomplished the distance in seven days, an average of \^\ miles per day, as against the 21 miles per day from Constantinople to
i on p. 72. round Sarajevo rise to a height of 5250 feet. * Sarajevo is 1770 feet above the sea. ^ The castle, now a ruin, was built by the Hungarian general, Cotroman, in 1263. See Blount's remarks in Appendix K. ^ The dispute between the Bosnians and the Venetians was owing to the piracies of the Uscocs, a people of Dalmatia. The Pasha of Bosnia accused the Venetians of complicity in the outrages of 161 3. For some years, relations between the Porte and Venice continued to be strained and war was only averted with difficulty. For a full account of the Uscocs and the protection given to them by Austria, see Wilkinson, Dalmatia atid Montenegro, vol. ii. pp. 352, 384 ff. and 429.
Belgrade.
^
See note
The
hills
See note 2 on p. 27. Compare Th^venot, Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 67, "The Aspers are little pieces of Silver that have no other stamp but the Grand Signior's Name, and are worth
"^
82
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Heere are about 50 Turkish Churches and as many water mills driven by one Brooke^, lyeinge one lower then another, each haveinge but one little wheele, which the water turneth, the Axeltree of which is fixed in
Belgrade hither.
the Millstone
it
selfe^
The
for
about eight Denieis, or three Farthings a piece, but there are many of so that to receive Counterfeit, and one must have a care of that half a crown in them, it requires half a quarter of an hour to examine the Pieces one after another but great payments require whole days."
them
See Appendix A. Blount gives the number as about eighty. Compare Poullet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant, vol. i. pp. 83 and 103, " Cette ville de Bosna est la Capitale d'un des plus considerables Pachalies, et fort raisonablement grande, beaucoup plus longue que Elle a large, et enfonc^e entre deux montagnes vers le Septentrion. quantite de Mosquees, couvertes de plomb, et eslevees en dome.... Cette ville n'a presque plus que quelques pieces de murailles ruinees, et est tres desagreable a voir par dedans...."
^
The Miljacka or Miljatzka, a tributary of the Bosna. Compare Poullet, Nouvelles Relations du Levant, vol.
;
i.
p. 104,
L'extremite de Bosna vers Belgrade, est eslev^e sur une colline, d'oii lequel est tellement conduit, qu'il fait du il descend un petit ruisseau moins tourner cinquante moulins d'un mesme cours. lis sont industrieusement placez par etage, les uns au dessous des autres, que la mesme eau fait tout moudre. La roue sur laquelle elle tombe, n'est pas posee sur le cost^ de I'edifice, comme elle est parmy nous, mais tout au bas, et mise de plat, sur un pivot contre terre, ayant son ^tendue, parallele a I'horison, et faisant la mesme figure que fait une pirouette tournee sur une table." This form of mill is still in use. For the water-mills at Belgrade, see ante, p. 72 f
*
Spalato.
Venetian
gulff."
Author's
Index.
^ Pazaric or Pasaritj is fifteen and a half miles from Sarajevo on In the Itinerary of le Sieiir Qniclet in the Sarajevo-Mostar railway. 1658 (B.M. 44040. i) the place is given as Bazarick, in a map of 1720 (B.M. 44250. 4) as Pasarick or Bazaritch, and in a map of 1806 (B.M., K. 113. 34) as Bocaritz.
^ i.e. Ivan. The Ivan Planina is a ridge separating the valleys of the Lepenica and Narenta rivers. The village of Ivan, or Jora Ivan, In the twenty-four miles from Sarajevo, is on the top of the ridge. Iti7ierary, mentioned above, Mont Yvan is given, and, in a map of 1720 (B.M. 44250. 4) we have Mont St Jean or Mont Yvan.
83
Wee came
to Coneetza (8 miles)^
named
way
Noyse
as
passeth
it
among
the Hills.
Wee
kept our
alongst by
to
Leeseecheechee (2
miles)'^,
where wee
a good space
till
it
into
it,
crost
it
and began
steepy*^,
Mountaine and
soe
fall
and
perrish.
the
some plaine
wee
one
much more
is
steepy, beinge
Betwene
theis
twoe
little valley,
wherein
is
a little village (15 miles), and two little Rivers, which comeinge contrary wayes, meete, and both together sincke
1 Konjica, or Konitza, on the Neretva or Narenta, thirty-five Poullet, in his map (1658), has Conitha. miles from Sarajevo. map of 1720 (B.M. 44250. 4) has Cogniz or Comitha, and a map of 1830 (B.M. 43625. i) has Sconicza.
^
'
of
Neretna."
wrong.
Lisicici
is
Rama at the junction of the Rama and the Narenta. It preceding places, on the Sarajevo-Mostar railway. Pindar's train next proceeded south-westwards to Spalato over the Prologh Mountains.
* i.e.
to
is,
like the
"Dowlany Hills, vid Fo i." in Appendix A. In a map of 1720 (B.M. 27730. i) Dogliani Mountain is marked on " Dowlany Hills," seems the north of Sarajevo, but the author, by his to mean the heights surrounding the valley of the Doljanca or Doljani, a tributary of the Rama, and to give this name to all the hills
^
note,
The remark
from Blount
drained by the
^
Rama
itself.
Here the author has a marginal note, "A wonderfull high Steeple Rockye mountaine, the strangest wee yet saw. Dowlanee Fo i." The party most probably passed the night somewhere near Prosor.
:
62
84
right
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
downe among
I'ith.
the gravell.
abouts they
rise againe.
The
June, 1620.
began our Journey through more of the said huge Rock, some in a manner threatninge to overwhelme us. Wee
came
to a plaine called
Before wee
came
to this plaine,
little
Mountaine,
it
very cold,
it
On
were
and a
little
farther
From thence
into a wood,
though
in
the plaine
wee remained
all
night by a fountain
called Bresneeg''.
The
^
igth. June,
1620.
Wee dyned by
a great Lake'',
Borovaglava, a plateau of the Prologh Mountains. Pindar and appear to have followed the ancient Gabinian way over the Prologh Mountains, a part of the Dalmatian Alps, and thence, across the river Cettina to Spalato. In a map of 1780 (B.M. 44290. 6) Borovaglava appears as Buscova Draga. In a map of 1878 (B.M. The party probably started 43625. 9) Boroylawa Han is marked.
his party
from Prosor. 2 Here the author has a marginal note, "An admirable Plaine." The other "high mountain" may be the " Mt. Militsch " of a map
of 1806 (B.M., K. 113. 34).
3
The
British
Museum
copy,
Had. MS.
2286, has
"hewen
to the
ground."
Here, in the Rawlinsoti MS., is inserted a double-page map of by Hondius, dated 163 1, with Mundy's route from Spalato to Turin and also his Mediterranean voyage (described in Relation I.) marked in red dotted lines.
*
Italy
^
*
?The Duvno
Polje.
Probably a spring in the neighbourhood of Livno. Mundy's "great lake" is shown, but not named, in a map of 1811 (B.M., K. 113. 23). It is most probably the Semaroromo Blato
''
85
way
deale of trouble.
in a
Cane neere a
River
side, of
Cane-.
The
boate,
Garrison
Armes over
sett
the gates,
And one
is
Stone
Wee
the
Livanjsko Polje, E. of the Prologh Planina, seen in might be the Rusko Blato (Lake), S. of Livno. The distance to the Cettina by either route would be about the same. * The Cettina. Here the author has a marginal note, " Cheteena,
in the
Lug
But
it
a river."
^ The Khan would probably be either at Petricevic or at according to the route taken over the Prologh Planina.
Trilj,
^ *
i.e.
the Cettina.
" Keeleesh,
a garrison
Vid: Fol i." This refers to the extracts from Blount in Appendix K. " Keeleesh" is Mundy's spelling Blount calls the place Clyssi. The author has underestimated its distance from the Cettina. Clissa(KlTsh), a fortress famed from early times, for its strong position, lies two and a quarter miles E.N.E. from Salona. For its history, see Wilkinson, Dalmatia and Montenegro, vol. i. p. 173 and vol. ii. pp. 293, 351 and Yriarte, Les Bords de PAdriatique et le Montenegro., p. 283 f. Compare De Bauveau, Relation Jonrnaliere dii Voyage du Levant., p. 4, " Passant plus outre [in 1604] nous laissasmes..,Clysse, forteresse appartenant aux Turcz." Clissa is one of the five Hungarian royal castles depicted by Spanyi in the dining-room of the House of Mag; ;
nates at Budapest.
^ This appears to be a copyist's error for Soucharick i.e. Su^uraz. Castel SuQuraz or Sugurac is one of the sixteen Venetian Castles constructed in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries as places of refuge. If, by Loucharick, Suguraz is intended, the author can only mean that he passed it at a distance, for Suquraz is not on the direct road from There Clissa to Spalato, but lies on the sea shore north of Salona. is no modern name between Clissa and Spalato which would correspond with Mundy's Loucharick. For Suguraz, see Wilkinson,
vol.
i.
p. 173.
S6
alteration
in the
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
wee found \ not only
;
in the Inhabitants,
but also
Soyle
for, for
For a man hath scarcely was otherwise. seene, or could immagine a more fertill peece of ground or delightsome prospect, for of the very stones, of which there
But heere
it
any
soyle,
they
and
that
benefitt
by makeinge of them
instead of hedges.
it is
And
impossible almost
;
that waie
for in
Furrowes of Olive
figg trees,
And
this
It
many
Att our
It
arrivall
heere,
Lazaretto,
being
some certaine dayes, vizt. forty, thirty, twenty, fifteen, some more, some lesse, within the said Lazaretto before they are permitted to proceede to Venice, or to commerce
with any of their Subjects, there beinge the like in
^ Here the author has admirable chaunge." ^ " Excellent husbandry." ^
all their
a marginal note,
"
Christendome,
an
Spalato or Spljet (Aspalathos = ? Palatium) was built within the Here the author refers precincts of Diocletian's palace in a.d. 303. to his extracts from Blount, " Spalatra, vid: Fol I." For these, see Appe7idix A. For an account of Spalato, see Yriarte, Les Bords de rAdriatiqne et le Mon/etiegro, pp. 240 * See note These "Castles and watch Towers" were 5 on p. 85. erected by nobles, on land given to them by the Venetians, as places of refuge for the peasants during the wars with the Turks. See Wilkinson, Dalmatia and Montettegro, vol. i. p. 173.
:
fif.
8/
most parts of
Italy, especially
Sea
ports,
to prevent Infection^
My
roomes
was sent us
noe
man may
haveing a
to see
in
out of doores
to
till it
his
tyme bee
out,
come
knowe
till
bee accomplished,
Wee
as also that
noe
my
Lord,
th'
one sittinge
a sunder,
enter-
way
Complements
The
visit
again to
Clarke"'^
to goe
But
first
in the Sea,
Boate
for Venice.
Jtme, 1620.
forth,
Prattick^,
which
leive to
all,
goe
in
which tyme
but
continuancyes,
Lordshipp
was
greatly
1 Here the author has a marginal note, "A Lazaretto, what it is and wherefore ordained." Venice took the lead in measures to prevent the spread of the plague, and as early as 1348, appointed three officers of health. The first V'enetian Lazaretto was founded in 1403.
One
of Pindar's servants.
2
See note
on
p.
17.
p. 5.
88
favoured.
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Invited
him home
to his
The Towne
and many
many
soldiers
Mr
and
for
for
my
Lord
Company, the Frenchmen haveing hired another and that night, haveing gotten a Certificate of Contamacia-, or our abideinge, wee sett saile with a faire winde, and before day wee past by Zara, a Venetian Garrison
his
themselves
Towne^ where
The '^oth.June,
verie stoney
among
small Islands,
bee.
The two
first July,
to
Osoro
saile a great
it
way
selfe'^,
See note 2 on
p. 42.
J^ar la contwnacia is a nautical expression meaning. To perform Compare Fanfani, Vocabulario della Lijigua Italiana quarantine. Far la contuniacia o Star ift contwnacia (1855) s.v. Contuinacia: dicesi delle persone e delle niercantie die per alcun detenninato te7npo That is to say, si tengono in liiogo separate per sospetto di peste." the above expressions are used of persons or goods kept apart for some fixed time on suspicion of the plague.
'"''
^ See Compare Blount's description of Zara in Appendix A. Lithgow, Painefidl Peregrinations, p. 48, " Zara is the capitall city of Dalmatia, called of old Jadara. There lye continually in it a Great Garrison of Souldiers to defend the towne and Cittizens who are for he is Signior thereof." maintained by the Duke of Venice See also De Bauveau, Relation Jonrtialiere du Voyage dii Levant, Du Loir, Voyages, p. 357 PouUet, Nouvelles Relations du p. 4 Levant, vol. i. p. 21.
;
* The detachment of English soldiers, which had been sent out in 1618 for the assistance of the Venetian Republic, was under the command of Sir Henry Peyton. See p. 92.
Compare Ossero, on the south-west of the island of Cherso. Lithgow, Painefull Peregriftations, p. 47, " Valdogosto in the Isle of Osero, which is a safe haven for ships and Gallies." The Island of Lussin was often called Ossero from the prominent Monte Ossero on
'"
the North of
^
^
it.
separates Cherso from Lussin. Cherso and Lussin are united by a bridge called La Cavanella.
^
Sot
Vol
17.
MUNDYS ROUTE
IN
ITALY
Johii
Barthcaoaipw L Cci.3307
89
Cape of
Istria
(50 miles)-,
a
little
farther,
Island^
little
was thought
in
Theis Gallyasses
shape
And
whereas
have them
before and aloft and also betwene every Oare, soe that they
fifty
Haveing spoken
Towne,
called
Rovigno (12
men home
The
'^^rd.
to his howse.
July, 1620.
Towards
night, the
wynde come-
ing faire, wee sett saile from Rovigno, and the next day by noone, cuttinge over a gulfe^, wee came to the Cittie of Venice, and entred by St. Jno. Delio^, where the boate
^
3 *
Through
little
Towne" was
The
prettie
harbour with a
i.e., a great galley. galleass was a heavy low-built vessel, larger than a galley, having both sails and oars, and was chiefly employed in war. See Murray, Oxford English Dictiotiary, s.v. Galiegross and Galliass. Compare Bargrave's Voyages and Jojtrneys {Rawl. MS. C. 799), fol. 20, "Tlie [Turkish] Fleet [in 1649]. ..consisted then of about 60 Gallies and Gally-grosses and 30 Shipps." ^ Compare Chiswell, Travels, 1696 {Add. MS. 10623), f^l. 20 f., "April 26th Venice... The Arsinall...here wee saw a Galiasse near finished, they are very great and unwieldy Vessels, carrying 700 Souldiers and Seamen, besides 300 rowers, and are mounted with 32 brass demi Cannon."
^
**
The Gulf of
St. Jno.
Venice.
Delio appears to be a mistake for S. Andrea del Lido, since Port Lido, one of the three main entrances into the lagoons,
90
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
us,
and our
Certificate of
Con-
tamacia being
firmed by g\i signiorii de la Sanita^, wee had leave to goe whether wee would. Soe passing betwene the two Castles, then which there is noe other way for boats and Gallyes^, wee came by St. Markes
is
the
di
bounded by Fort S. Andrea on the right and Fort S. Nicolo on left. See Admirahy Chart 1886 (B.M., Sec. V. 1483). In a map of 1648 (B.M., K. 75, 78 a) Port Lido is marked as Porto Venetia, and in a map of 1820 (B.M. 22665. 2) it appears as Porto
di
Niccolo del Lido. Bargrave, Voyages a7id Journeys {Rawl. MS. fol. 161, speaks of the "barr of Lio," and Chiswell, Travels^ {Add. MS. 10623), fol. 21, calls the Castle of Lido, i.e. Sant' Andrea, the " Key of Venice."
C. 799),
^ See note 2 on p. 88. The following interesting allusion to Contiimacia occurs in Bargrave's Voyages and Jon7-7ieys {Rawl. MS. " We...anchord...near ten miles distant from the 799), fol. 171, City of Venice. The next day I went to the Sanita (or Health-house) where I was soon dismissed with my sentence from the Lords della Sanita, who in regard we came from Turky (which is allways taken for an infectious Shoar) we must attend our full Quarantine for Prattick Yet I had not doubted of more speedy admission, had not a Venetian Mariner amongst us. ..sent into the City a bed of WooU... and Divers infallibly had suffred but that with bribes to some powerful! Officers they were perswaded to countenance a framd Excuse and only punishd us with suffi-ing the extremitie of 43 dayes Contumacia." See also Coryat's remarks on " Bills of Health," Coryafs Crudities., vol. i.
p. 214.
In a plan of Venice of 1620 (B.M., S. 6g. 12) Porta delli dua "dua castelli" being il castel novo (Sant' is marked, the Andrea) on the right or N.E. entrance into the Porto di Lido and Fortezza nova on the left or S.W. These seem to be the two castles mentioned by the author. S. Pietro da Castello appears in a plan of 1630 (B.M. 22670. 3). In a plan of 1705 (B.M. 22670. 18) the Canal du Chateau is marked between the Church of St Marie des Vierges on the right and the Church and Castle of St Pierre on the left. Again, in a map circ. 1700 (B.M., K. 75, 80), Li due Castelli o Lido are marked in 1780 (B.M. 22665. 3) ^^'^ have Castel S. Andrea and in 1850 (B.M. 22665. 4) ^^'^ have the Porto del S. Pietro di Castello Lido marked with Castel S. Andrea on the right and F. del Lido on the left; lastly, in the Admiralty Chart of 185 1 (B.M., Sec. V. 1483) we find the Forteresse et Porto de Lido with S. Andrea on the right. Hence, it seems clear that Mundy entered Venice by the Port of Lido and passed between the Fort of S. Andrea and the Fort known at different periods as S. Pietro, Lido and S. Nicolo. Compare Bargrave's Voyages and Journeys {Raiul. MS. C. 799), fol. 160, " The most incomparable Situation of Venice preserved from the Violence of the Seae by a barr of land, which lies before it, placed by Providence as a Guard to defend it, having only three narrow passes through it to let in such Yessells as themselves please, whiles others have no possibilitie of Entrance and so dangerous is the Shoare
2
castelli
9I
wee strooke our mast to passe under: Lastly to Canalregio^ where wee stayed and landed all our stufife att a verie faire howse, which John Clarke* had provided, and most richly
furnished with hangings, bedds, tables,
all rich,
and curious
chaires, linnen, aboundance of plate and necessaries, the howse beinge as curious within as it was faire without,
the
of
all
fine
marble,
beinge statues of
which did wonderfully adorne the roomes. Also a curious garden full of fine devices and marble Images. This howse
belonginge to one of the Privillees^ beinge of the Nobillitie,
himselfe
att
present
in
Goverment
att
Candy*'.
without the Barr that Every Stornie drives a ship to certain Ruine, so no Enemies can anchor there to hinder the City from Supphes Neither can the smallest boats come to it from the Terra firma, but by narrow Channells, in which from severall little mounts used on purpose, a few men may stop the Passage to a Multitude of Enemies."
that
;
vol.
i.
For a contemporary description of Venice, see Coryafs Crudities, pp. 300 ff. and Bargrave's Voyages and Journeys {Rawl. MS.
159
799), fols.
2
162.
Compare Rialto (Rivo alto) was built in 1588. Rawl. MS. D. 120 {Travels by an anonymous author in 1649), "Venice. ..On the most part ot this city runnes water so that you may goe all by water in boates called gundilowes of which there are as is
The Ponte
di
reported 80000. The great bridge is called ponto realtoo which for one arch is the largest and biggest that I have seene." Compare also Rawl. MS. C. 799, fol. 162, "The Rialto Bridge famous above all for the Stately Single Arch it is built on."
Grande.
the Cannaregio, or Canale di Mestre, N.E. of the Canal Many important buildings were erected on both banks. Mundy's description of the route taken is strictly accurate.
^
i.e.
* John Clarke was released from quarantine at Spalato on the 22nd of June. See p. 87. The author appears to mean that the owner of the house rented by Pindar was a member of the privileged classes at Venice. The word " Privillees " is probably coined from privilegio. " Candia was at this time a Venetian possession. In 1667 it was besieged by the Turks, and, after an obstinate resistance, was The Governor compelled to surrender to the Osmans in 1669. General of Candia in 161 2 was Girolamo Capello, but it is doubtful if he were still holding the same office in 1620.
5
92
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
if
two monethes,
Ducketts^ att
4s.
The
\th.
July,
1620.
Came
Sir
Henry
Payton
(Collonell
of
the English
English Captaines
in his
Company,
Captaine Lucy*,
Captaine
^
Theobalds'',
Captaine
Manneringe,
Captaine
upon
of Venice, with the words Ducatus Venetus a Piece of 6 old Livres, afterwards raised I think to 6 Livres Sir Isaac Newton's Tables, in Kelly's 4 Sols de Piccoli, 4o-5od." Universal Cambist, vol. ii. p. 155. This makes the value of a Ducat to be 3s. 4|d. in the eighteenth century as against Mundy's estimate of 4s. in the seventeenth century. Compare Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 423, " Now whereas the Venetian duckat is much spoken of you must consider that this word duckat doth not signifie any one certaine coyne. But many severall pieces doe concurre to make one duckat, namely sixe livers and two gazets, which doe countervaille foure shillings and eight pence of our money. So that a duckat is sometimes more sometimes lesse."
it,
^ For the position of the Jews in Venice in the seventeenth century, see Yriarte, Venice, p. 41 f
^ Sir Henry Peyton was appointed to the command of the soldiers From the Calendar sent out to assist the Venetian Republic in 1618. of State Papers, Domestic Series, 30 March 1718, we learn that "The Venetian Ambassador prepares eight ships he will have a Venetian Admiral, but the real command will rest between Sir Henry Peyton and Sir Henry Mainwaring." Among the State Papers, Foreign, Venice, vol. 22, there are several letters from Sir Henry Peyton. In June 1619 (fol. 130) he writes of the soldiers taken from Zara and in December of the same year (fol. 172) he writes from Spalato of "disorders" between "two of their ships." In February and June of 1620 Peyton is mentioned as being at Venice {ib. vol. 23). He died circ. 1622. For an account of his career, see the Dictiotiary of
;
National Biography. * I have been unsuccessful in tracing the parentage of this individual, who probably belonged to the family made notorious by Shakspeare's youthful escapade. ^ This individual seems to be identical with the Captain Henry Theobalds, mentioned in the Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, under date 28 February 1625 (p. 486) as follows "The King Requires them to deliver to the Sheriffs of London and Middlesex. certain reprieved prisoners in Newgate to Captain Henry Theobalds,
:
Low
Countries."
Captain (afterwards Sir) Henry Mainwaring had made himself notorious in 1616 by taking a ship from Joachim Wardeman of Lubeck, who brought a suit against him. In 161 7, Mainwaring was pardoned, and, in 1618, he (the "late pirate") was
See ante,
n.
3.
93
att
they
liveing" in
The
to him.
20tJi. Jjily,
1620.
my
Lord went
The
sador'*
The Duke
of Savoyes
Ambasarrivall,
;
came
my
the
July, 1620.
compasse,
hundred to ride
afloate.
Here
is
hundred
Gallyes,
new
Then
many
full
mounted on
others
full
Carriages.
In others were
Gunns dismounted,
Wee
given the sub-command of the " Venetian troops." See Calendar of State Papers^ Domestic Series^ 1616 1618, pp. 359, 425, 530, and 531. The order for "Sir Henry Mainwaring's shipp" to serve Venice was given on the 3:st March 161 8 State Pape?-s, Foreign^ Venice^ vol. 22.
have found no further mention of this individual. ^ These "soldiers" came from England in 1618. See ante, pp. 88 and 92. On the 21st August, 1620, the troops from Zara arrived at Venice, and were ordered to go to Lombardy. State Papers, Foreign,
^
della Queva.
in
1619 was
Don
Alfonso
* On the 9th February, 1618, there is a mention of the arrival at Venice of Biscina, an extraordinary ambassador from the Duke of
Savoy.
^
Jourjtall of a voyage thro France and Italy {Sloane 2142) under date 16 April 1659, "Wee went to see the Arsinal A place most famous for the multitude of all things necessary belong[ing] to sea and Land. It is at one end of the City engirt about with a
Compare
MS.
94
they
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
ropes,
Rudders, Oares,
Masts, yards,
ground
saltpeter,
Planck, Sawyers,
faire
halls,
with
Armour from
swords,
and Targetts
and
a very great
Gallies
;
number
soe
for
fifty
in
in
every of them
etts. sufficient
many Guns
one
Gallie.
ready made many gallies, and as some spend, there are others made new in their roomes, which are sowen by weomen\ of whome there were att present greate Companies att
In other halls were
new
sailes
for soe
worked
of
to perticularize
sorts
auncient
Armes, also
Monument
All theis,
great Wall. It is counted three mile in circuite, there being continually both in peace and warre some 2000 men at worke. It was the saying of A great General belonging to Charles the fifth that he had rather have the Arsenal in his power then four of the best Cittyes in Italy. Here are places for Artilery, of powder, of Armes, of Corslets, of pikes and al sortes of Armes both for defence and offense both for sea and land. Here is a very fine Armory and without doubt the best in Italy, being armes enough for 60000 horse and foote, and for above
30000
^
men
at sea."
Compare "A
true Description of
what
down, and
in sure
Harleiaii Miscellany^ vol. v., "Venice. The House of Artillery. ..Go up the Stairs, and you shall come into a Room, wherein are two hundred Old Women, daily mending old Sails, and sometimes, when need requires, there are seven hundred daily working."
note on the Arsenal which runs places wherein (i) they build gallies, (2) cast Ordinance, (3) where they keepe them mounted, (4) dismounted, (5) carriages, (6) Bulletts, (7) they made Cables, (8) Anchers, (9) masts, yards, oares, Rudders, etts. (10) iron worke, Severall halls aloft full of (11) plancks, sawyers, warehouses full. Armour, vizt.. Swords, Pikes, musketts, targetts etts., also munition
^
as follows:
FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON
95
but
shorter,
thicker
and
higher,
whereon
is
for carved
when shee
in the
Water,
pure gold.
sitt
On
the
Lowermost
made
in her
very
side.
deck overhead.
Nobillitie
In
goeth
the
the
Duke and
auntient
:
of
Venice
to
marrie
Sea,
an
They
are
Duke
letteth
it
downe
in the
soe untill
the
him have made an end of their Ceremonies. Then hee draweth it upp againe, and soe it is finished^ Then they retourne with the greatest musicke and Triumph they can Invent, there goeinge in Company
divers
other
vessel Is
to
assist
the
Marriage,
all
very
the history of the Arsenal see Yriarte, Vetiice, p. 46 ff. "The next thing the following descriptions of the place: that is worthy of notice is the arsenall (which the world cannot equall) environed with a wall and with the sea into which you enter onely by one channell and by one gate. Its two miles in circuite. There are armes for 1 50000 men and they are able to set forth in a weeke 1 50 There workes dayly 2880 men which galleyes besides Gallyasses. are constantly payed by the state." Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 28
^ For Compare
{Travels by an anonymous author in 1649). " The Arsinall so famous throughout the world, is about two miles in Circumference, and strongly walled Round, Wherein they say that 2500 Men are continally kept at worke... the Magazine of small Armes Chiswell, Travels., 1696 {Add. is very large and Neatly kept."
MS
10623),
^ 3
fol-
20.
See Coryafs Crudities., vol. i. p. 359. "This by relation of others." Author's marginal note, which
is
was not
omitted in the British Museum copy, Harl. in Venice during Ascension week.
MS.
2286.
Mundy
96
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Also when there arriveth any
All the rest of the
for-
sent to bring
him
in.
tyme shee
To Conclude
all
materialls
rigg, furnish,
arme and
good
fleete of gallies"-.
men goeing
the
and returne
This place
in the
morninge,
in
is
Powder made
without, neither
my
opinion
^ Compare the following allusions to the Marriage of the Doge of Venice to the Adriatic Sea. 1616. "Venice. The Duke of this Adriatick Queene, espouseth the sea, every Ascension day, by casting a golden ring into it. Which Stultitious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was graunted, when he fled to Venice for succour, being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa." Lithgow, Painefull Pcregrinatio?is p. 40. " Heere allso is that Busentowre a gaily in which the duke 1649. goes to marry the Sea." Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 28 {Travels by an
^
unknown
1655.
author).
"Their Ceremonies upon Ascension day, when theyr GaUie-gross of State (calld Buggean d'or) is lanchd to Seae, a vessell most richly adornd, and rowed by a multitude of men on the lower Deck unseen, whiles the upper Deck is covred, as it were, with a rich Canopy of Gold, borne (towards the Sterne) upon the Shoulders of Slaves, most artificially resembled in Statues, which lively imitate the paine they suffer under the burden, and under this Canopy is Carried the Doge (the Duke of Venice) and the whole Senate of Venice as farr as the barr of Lio, attended by innumerable Peottas and Gondolas filld with Gallants and Ladies... the maine Ceremonie is the espousing of the Senat to the Seae, which is effected by the Duke throwing a ring into the Seae, at which action are let fly immediatly from the adjacent Forts great Gunns and fireworkes without Count." Bargrave, Voyages a7id Jotirjieys, Rawl. MS. C. 799, fol. 161. "The Vessell called the Baucentoro, whereon the Doge 1696. and Senate upon Ascention day performe the Ceremony of Marrying
the Sea."
Chiswell, Travels, Add. MS. 10623, fol. 21. of "marrying the Adriatic" dates from 11 74. It was enjoined by Pope Alexander III. after the victory of the Venetians, under Doge Sebastiano Ziani, over the fleet of Frederick Barbarossa. The last Bucentaur was destroyed by the French in 1797. ^ " What great preparation may be done on the suddaine."
The Ceremony
97
that
is
in
Venice^ although
some
observation,
As
St.
Markes
faire place
also St.
Marks Tower
to
att Sevill
which
is
the fairest
Tower
a faire
way
in
wares
to say
two rowes, on each side of the midle way one, and one
on each back way.
Moreover, the great number of other
stone bridges throughout the Cittie,
and
faire
Channells
may goe
land or
to
Cittie
by
water''.
The multitude
of
Gondolls or Ferrie
black
Cloth,
1 For a further contemporary description of the Arsenal at Venice, see Coryat's Crudities^ vol. i. pp. 358 361.
^ ^
vol.
i.
p.
314
ff.
Chiswell, Travels (in 1696), Add. MS. 10623, fol- i^f., of St. Marke is a square Building of a very considerable hight, and its ascent so easy, that I believe tis possible to ride up a horse back." See also Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 325 f
Compare
"The Tower
Mundy
paid several
visits
to Seville.
Relation III.
Add. MS.
Compare Chiswell, Travels (in 1696), p. 91. 10623, fol- 19? "the chiefest (bridge) is that over the great Canall, called the Riallto. It hath but one Arch and is deservedly counted a bold and excellent piece of Architecture." See also Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 309 f.
^
See note 2 on
Crudities., vol.
'^
p.
312.
vol.
i.
p.
312
f.
98
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
and stated
The
height, strength
The aboundance
and the
of varyeties and
liberty thereto
As
whome
number by
gett,
report
many
hither,
some
pro-
beinge wayes to
but
many more
August,
to
spend,
meane of some
fessions
and conditions.
^th.
in
The
Venice
Anno
1620.
Wee
departed from
i
liver,
or 8d.*
per man, which boates, after our comeinge into the River ^,
are
drawne with
horses.
neere the Cittie, the water beinge not a foote deepe with the helpe of the said sluces, Barkes of
foote
Yett,
five or six
Shipps
may
bee conveyed.
Upon
As wee
passed, were
Sommer tyme
1 See note 2 on p. 91. Compare Chiswell, Travels, Add. MS. 10623, fol. 20, " There is not a Coach or Horse in this Citty, but instead thereof the Gentry keep each a small boat called a Gondalo, in which being rowed by one Man, or sometimes two, they performe their visitts etc., but at their Country Houses upon the Terra firma, many of Them have Coaches and Calashes, severall Thousands of those Gondaloes lye allwayes ready to be hired, they are neatly built, and light, and are rowed with incredible swiftness and agility."
^
^
See Coryafs Crudities, vol. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. Kelly, Universal Cambist,
i.
p. 306.
p.
i.
300 and
ii.
vol.
ii.
p.
i.
vol.
piccola (in the old coins) 5*07 d.," which Mundy. Also, in "Sir Isaac Newton's Tables," quoted by Kelly in vol. ii. p. 155, the value of an "old Livre" is given as a little under 7d.
^
^
99
in the
miles)'',
afternoone wee
came
to the Cittie of
Padoa
is
(25
and lodged
per
att
man
per daye.
within are
This Cittie
many voyd
places
and ruynes.
It
is
walled
about with
lawe
Two
walls.
is
a Hall
i.
p. 300,
"Padoa, where I found observable, first the Site of the City, in a fruitfull soile, on a pleasant Plaine, in a healthy Aire, and a plentyfull and Cheap Country It is watred and trenchd by the river La Brenta, which affords a delightfull passage doune its Streame even to Venice having on its bankes varietie of Gallant Pallaces and Villag's, and in the Summer most curious walks from one to the other along the river almost the whole way. It is a convenient Retirement from Venice of about 20 miles distance." ^ Compare A Jozirnall of a voyage thro Fraftce and Italy, Sloane MS., 2142, "April 21, 1659. Wee departed from Venice and lay that night at Padua going by water from thence, being accounted about twenty five miles. This Citty is very large, wherein is a University which entertains gentlemen of all nations." ^ The Golden Star was a well-known inn for two centui'ies after Mundy's visit. Compare the following" allusions " Padua... When you come thither lodge at Alia Stella, the 1745. Harleian Miscellany, vol. v. p. 38. Star." "At Padua the Golden Star is a good house." A Brief 1775. Account of the Roads of Italy, p. 47. " Padua. ..L'Etoile d'or sur la place des Noli (la meilleure 1819. auberge et la plus commode de la Ville)." Milan, Itineraire d' Italic. In 1789 Taylor, Travels from Englaitd to htdia in 1789, vol. i. p. 60 f., mentions the "Aquila d'Oro" at Padua as "an excellent inn." There is still a " Stella d'Oro " at Padua in Piazza Garibaldi. * See note 4 on p. 98. ^ See Lithgow, Paiiiefull Peregrinations, p. 415 and A Tour in France and Italy (in 1675), P- 'i^. The Hall of Audience, which is 300 ft. long and 100 ft. broad, was begun in 1 172 and finished in 1306. Compare the following accounts of this building and of the city of
163,
: :
Padua
" Padua boasteth of her neighbourhood to the river Padus, 1609. her Universitie, Antenors foundation, fertillity of ground, strong ramparts, and repineth at her subjection to Venice." Gainsford, Glory of
England,
p. 80.
"Padua is rather ancient (as being the mother of Venice) 1649. then beautiful! and frequented rather for its university then for its
72
lOO
TJie ^th.
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
August, 1620.
This morninge
my
lord
went
came
to see
The
6th.
August, 1620.
Rawl. MS. D. pleasant living. It is much frequented by strangers." 120 {Travels, by an anonymous author). "Padoa, where I found observable... Its Walls all of Stone 1655. handsomely wrought, and admirably Strong, having a stately walk upon the Earth cast up within them.. .the Universitie Great hall, in which lie buryed Publius Livie his bones whose Statue stands beside them." Bargrave, Voyages and Journeys, Rawl. MS. C. 799, fol. 163. 1696. " Padua.. .A very Ancient and famous Citty, but now greatly declined from its former glor}', both in Number of People, Riches and Buildings, also of the University so noted in History, there is now but little appearance, its incompassed with an old and new Wall, the latter is about six miles in Compass, and was built according to the moderne Fortification at the great expence of the Venetians to whome the Citty still belongs, and so is their Bulwark on that side... .Wee went to the Towne house into which wee ascended by a good number of Staires, in length it containes 102 ordinary paces, and in breadth },'^, indeed tis a large noble structure, but far inferior to Westminster Hall with which they pretend to compare it, at the upper end is the Monument of that excellent Historian Titus Livius, who was a Native of this Place." Chiswell, Travels, Add. MS. 10623, fol. 20 f.
^
Earl of Arundel. The lads were sent to under the care of Mr Thomas Coke, to complete their education. Lord Maltravers died of small-pox at Ghent in 1624. See Tiemey, History aftd Antiquities of Arundel, pp. 444 487. ^ Coryat says there were fifteen hundred students at the University when he visited Padua. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 297. Corhpare Hart. MS. 288, fol. 284 {Directions to Travellers in France and Italy, circ. 1620), "Padua: An Universitie famous for Lawe and phisicke, frequented by all nations, who have for each a Consul! whom they change each yeare, during which time those of the same nation are
obhged
^
to obey."
The seventeenth
century
name
See Coryafs
p. 98,
note
the
lira.
^
8 lira 8 soldi. According to the value given for a lira on 4, the dollar would be worth 5s. 6gd., reckoning 20 soldi to See Kelly, Universal Cambist, vol. i. p. 244.
Company
"Randall" or " Randalph Symes" was employed by the Levant at Venice, as agent for the transmission of letters. He is
lOI
Lord (whoe came to Padoa twoe dayes before us), where Thomas Humes remained, haveing Captaine Winge^
in
my
his
stead,
whoe was
to
come with
us for England
Itah'an,
bound
to
Vicenza (25
wee lay att the Three Kings ^ The yth. August, 1620. Mr. Randoll Syms tooke his leave and returned to Venice, and wee proceeded to Villa from thence to the Nova^, a Towne where wee dyned
there
;
Cittie of
This Cittie
tient,
faire
and
great, very
where
is
Romaine monuments, of an Ovall forme, one third of And within are thirtya mile in Compasse without side. five'' degrees or stepps round about, each of some two foote high, of hewen stone, part fallen downe, but now
beginninge to bee repaired againe, and serveth for the
referred to in that capacity in Siate Papers, Foreign Archives, vol. 148, under dates 28 March, 1622, 22 July, 1624, and 20 Nov., 1626.
^ This seems to mean that Captain Winge took Thomas Hume's place as one of Sir Paul Pindar's attendants. For Thomas Hume, the " Scottishman," see p. 43. There is no further reference in the MS.
to Captain
^
Winge.
288,
fol.
284, "
From Padua
to
Vicenza are
18 mile
3
where they reckon forty thousand Soules." Other travellers do not mention this inn. Taylor, Travels fi-oin
to Itidia,
England
*
in
accommodation and
lies
vol.
i.
p.
61,
"Good
It Villa Nuova is a place of little account in the present day. between Torre di Confini and Soave, on the old post road from Venice to Milan. It appears in a map entitled ''Viaggio da Milano Coryat a Venezia," in A Brief Account of the Roads of Italy (1775). mentions the place and says it is 17 miles from Vicenza. Coryafs
Crudities, vol.
^
ii.
p. 15.
have not been able to trace the inn here. Cavaletta. I Later writers mention the Due Torri (? the existing Londra e Due Torri) at Verona. 6 Compare Harl. MS. 288, fol. 284, " Farther [from Vicenza] 30
Miles
7
The
is
Verano, a brave
British
citie,
7 Miles in compasse."
The
Museum
copy, Harl.
MS.
2286,
has "Forty-five
degrees."
I02
Citties use
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
and recreation ^ But
in auntient in
tyme publique
such as these,
to fight
Amonge
the
rest,
and
strugle for their hves with wilde beasts, as lyons, beares, Tigers, wolves,
etts.,
lett
make
upp the multitudes pastime, whoe in those dayes delighted in such Inhumaine Spectacles, as wee may read in the Romaine History. And, for the better understandinge of an Amphitheater,
I
sett the
this,
designe of one,
yett
some what
same when
entire^.
An
and
were
is
commonly
in
and Death
them exhibited
them
horror
in
earnests
and acts butt fained, to performe Those that were condemned to fight
the Mornings.
The
forbidden
to
behold
Way
some
1
left to
avoid destruction".
Some
and
such
for
bravery
undertooke to
built in
encounter with
284 a.d.
vol.
p. 19.
{Trai'els,
by an anonymous author,
"From hence
and
2
to Verona. This is a very beautipleasant city both for cituation and building... it has three
[Vicenza]
went
and an amphitheatre, the most entire of any I have seen." There is no illustration in the MS. Coryat has a representation of the Amphitheatre at Verona. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. ii., ill. facing
fortresses
p. 24.
of this paragraph is taken from Sandys' Travels. has quoted pretty accurately, for the most part, but has retained his own spelling and has omitted several passages.
3
The whole
Mundy
*
*>
is
omitted.
IO3
who either perished or made way by victory unto One hundred lyons were often at once let forth
savage spectacle.
Butt oh the
in
wicked delight of those barbarous tyrants, worthy to suffer Who caused Miserable Wretches to what they inflicted
!
make
histories
of
fables,
and
putt
in
Act Imaginary
miseries.
holders
terror, either
or falling
exposed themselves unto Death without by taking it from the Weapon of another, Nor matterd it who had the on their owne\
was covered with sand to drinck up the bloud that was shed thereon. Vid. Mr. Sands
slaughter^.
floore
:
The
:
page 70: 71
The Area
in
Read
at large C.C.^
Anno I655^
it
here
The
^tJi.
August, 1620.
Wee came
to Cavalsella (15
little
and lodged
att St.
Sandys completes the sentence with " as the fable required." Here a paragraph is omitted. The extracts are taken from pp. 270 272 of the 161 5 edition of
Sandys' Travels. * "C.C." is apparently meant for Coryafs Crudities which first appeared in 161 1. Coryat has a long description of the amphitheatre at Verona. s Mundy made his third voyage to India in the Aleppo Merchant., in He appears to have revised his MS. during the voyage and to 1655. have added the Supplement to Relation I. as well as several notes.
The
6
extract from
Sandys
is
in
at a later date.
''
Lonato.
to the inn
mentioned
by Mundy.
I04
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
theis
fifty
is
Betwene
say,
Lago de Garda,
about
in
broade
some
Atigiist,
is
it
Wee dyned
To
in
wee came
which
some say
continuallie
From thence
1 The lake is Coryat gives 34 miles long and 3 to 1 1 miles wide. dimensions as 35 miles long and 14 broad. Coryafs Crudities^ vol. ii. p. 40. Compare Harl. MS. 288, fol. 284 lyDirections to Travellers, arc. 1620), " Fifteen miles thence T Verona] is Peschiera hard by here is the Lake de gard well stored with fish, 36 miles long and 14 broade."
its
Peschiera. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. ii. p. 39. Compare the following See Coryafs Crudities, vol. ii. p. 42 remarks on Brescia " Brescia... where the language is corrupt; for belike they 1609. have beat out the fineness with hammering their armours." Gainsford, Glo7y of Ejigland, p. 90. 1620. "Hence [from Peschiera] 25 miles to Brescia, famous for tunnes." Harl. MS. 288, fol. 284. " Brescia is a pretty towne, famous over most part of Europe 1648. for making of Armes, the mettle of which is treason to transport out. It has a strong fortresse strong both in its Cituation As being built on a hill as allso on a rocke." Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 30.
^
fif.
"Brescia, a great and large Citty, and subject to the Veneinhabitants in former tymes have raised many warres and commotions... the people retaine some markes of their ancient fiercenesse, both by the cruelty of their lookes and guns and swords which they continually carry about them." Sloane MS. 2142, under date 25 April, 1659. * Brescia was on the borders of the Duchy of Milan, then a Spanish possession.
1659.
tians.
The
^ The "Torre" Inn or the "Auberge La Tour'' at Brescia is mentioned in Guides to Italy of 1787, 1819, and 1829. It perhaps survives in the existing "Due Torri."
''
He
Mundy was particularly impressed by the sufferers from goitre. has further allusions to the disease later on.
105
att the
and lay
Spred Eaglet
loth. Ajigiist,
1620.
past
by Orsonovo"
kept
(2 miles),
and well
miles)=*
the
way
plaine,
feilds
Amidst
vine branches of the one tree, and twist them with the
the next to
to
daunce hand
in
hand
all
over the
feild*.
I
Other vynes
;
could see
also
many
River-'
prettie brookes
and
I
Rilletts
wee came
to
Sumseenee (i^
miles), a walled
Towne
of the Venetians^
;
Orzivechi.
Eagle."
^ *
Orzi Nuovi.
The
Oglio.
Here the author has a marginal note, "Curious conceived husbandrie." See also Symonds' description of the vineyards near Turin, quoted in Appendix G. The above is a fair description of the viticulture of Northern Italy at the present day.
^ ^
"
i.e.
the Oglio.
Soncino, in the
Duchy
"Crema, the
Philip
II.
last
120,
fol. 30.
*
father, the
Emperor Charles V.
Duchy of Milan by his The Spanish line of Hapsthe province until 1700. By the treaties of Utrecht and 17 14, Milan was annexed to the possessions of the House
of Spain was invested with the
in 1540.
I06
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Then came
with a
wee
to
Lotho (lo
miles),
it
and dyned
att
From
att
thence to
the Eagle
lodged
and Hornel
The nth. August, 1620. Three Kings^, and on
his
the greate Cittie of Millan (20 miles), and dyned att the
after which,
my
Lord beinge
the
in his
Coach
Dukedome under
King
of Spaine%
my Lord
Towards night
to
my
Lord went
morninge.
I
to
visitt
him, and
then
proceede
next
Cittie,
in this
famous
went
to the
Domo"
or high Church,
whoe
for
dyed about
a Saint
1
now
in great
reverence
D.
Lodi. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 254 f. Compare Rawl. "Lodi, the first towne of the Duchy of Milan."
MS.
is
The
Serio.
Lodi
I
is,
a tributary.
^
Malegnano.
in
Germany, died
in
The Duomo
" Carolus
or Cathedral of Milan.
Boromeo, a
New
Saint in Millan."
Author's Index.
lO/
many
Miracles
He
a raile of Iron,
;
About the south of the vault where men may looke downe through
a grate
flow to
it,
and great concourse of people doe continually where they make their requests and Prayers.
August, 1620.
Goeinge, wee past by the
in
The
\2tJi.
Castle, accounted
Christendome^:
which runneth to
for
See Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 244, and Johnson, Travellers Guide an account of the Saint of this famous family and his tomb. The Cardinal died in 1584, aged 46.
Compare Lithgow, Paiiiefiill Peregrinations, p. 410, "A false canonized Saint. 1 remember about twenty yeares ago [from 161 6] Paulo Papa quinto Canonized Carolo Borrameo, the late Bishop of Milane for a notable Saint, being knowne to bee a notorious and scelerate liver done sooner by fifteene yeares then their ordinary allotting time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Duckats Prayers Miracles, Pardons and Pilgrimages to him, and erecting a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And yet the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good and charitable liver by all reports, could never, nor cannot attayne to the dignity of a Saint, his meanes was so small when dead, and his friends so poore being alive." Compare also Sloane MS. 4217 (An account of the Journey of Lady Catherine Whetenall from Brussels to Italy in 1650), fol. 18, "Milan. ..the Domo or greate Church, where St. Charles of Boromeos body lyes enterd in
; ;
the Middest of the Church before the Cuire. Hee was Arch Bishopp of the Towne some Three score yeares agoe and a man of Singular His body is inclosed now in a most Curious Christall case Sanctitie. (given by the King of Spaine) and it is intire all but a Little of his nose end." Mundy seems to have verified the date of death of the saint when he revised his MS. The copyist wrote "about thirty four years ago,'' and the B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has the same. The correction to "thirty six" in the Raivl. MS. is in Mundy's own writing.
^ Compare Rami. MS. D. 120, fol. 30, " Milan. ..this is one of the four greate cityes of Italy, but wheither it deserve the title of Milano The things le grando, it being the lest of the four, I know not. remarkable heere the great Church... the fort or fortresse esteemed and deservedly one of the strongest of Christendome both in respect of its cituation...and it is the best furnished with all sorts of ammunition of warre as also with a garrison of 4000 men." Tour in Fj'ance See also Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 247 f and
,
and
2
Italy, p. 30.
river
of Bufifaloro is situated about three miles from the There is no river of that name, but the Canal of Naviglio-Grande intersects the town of Bufifaloro and was evidently mistaken by the author for a river.
Ticino.
The town
I08
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
flatt
supply
it
with provision,
fruites, etts.
;
Soe to Nowarra (25 miles)^, and dyned att the Three Kings^ From thence to Varselly (10 miles)*. About
swifte.
hither, in our
by a small
of Earth,
mount
it
their Jurisdiction
in
Piedmont,
haveing bene
and taken by the King of Spaines forces, about some difference betwene the Two princes, but surrendred againe to the
the Seidge
Effects of
wee sawe
for,
buildings battered
downe and
selfe is
The
Ticino.
^ 3
Novara.
vol.
i.
p. 239.
The Tre Re at Novara is described, in 1842, as "a Italian Inn." The inn is also mentioned in Guide books
1819 and 1829.
* ^
tolerable of 1787,
Vercelli.
See Coryafs
Criidities, vol.
i^Accotcnt
it
"A
beyond
in
i. pp. 234 237. of a Journey over Mt. Cenis [Vercelli] wee rode through a little
the
is
the last
is
towne of the Duke of Savoy towards Milan." See Coryafs Crudities., vol. i. p. 234, where
confirmed.
^
statement
in
Vercelli
forces
161
7.
In July of that year Sir Henry Wotton, the English ambassador stand in a quotidian feaver about Vercelles at Venice, writes, " and extreamly doubtfull of the event of that important Seige." {State In August, news reached Papers, Foreig7i, Venice, vol. 22, fol. 233.) Venice of the fall of Vercelli and a treaty was proposed between Spain and Savoy. Sir Henry Wotton wrote that if Vercelli were not restored, " the Duke of Savoye will not be quiet nor the Venetians without him." {Ibid. fol. 241). On March, 1618, there was no change in the situation, " In Lombardie thinges stand as they did, and so shalbe my song till The surrender of the town to Vercelli be restored." {Ibid. fol. 249.) Savoy took place shortly after. It was re-taken by the Spaniards
We
in
1638.
IO9
Wee
The
i^th.
Aiigiist,
1620.
Wee came
to
Seean (16
miles)\ and dyned att the Angell (10 miles), and from
The
14th.
August, 1620.
to
Duke
where mett us
now absenf. Within two wee past a greate River by boate, two Footemen whoe, haveinge spoken with
all
my
speede".
One
mile farther,
there mett
him in a Coach Sir Isaack Wake, our Kings Ambassador to this Duke^, and halfe a mile farther wee mett the Dukes generall, and with him twenty five Knights in Compleat Armour, whoe came to conduct my Lord into
the Cittie, and soe to
his
i.
p.
i.e.
estimate.
^
3
Chivasso.
"Turin, the Cheifif Citty of Piedmont." Author's Index. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 230, for a description of Turin. From Turin to Paris, Mundy followed almost the same route as that taken by Richard Sj^monds from Paris to Turin in 1648. Symonds' Note Books, Ha7-l. MSS. 943 and 1278, contain much valuable contemporary information and are freely used in this volume. The greater part of Harl. MS. 943 has been reproduced in Appendix G, where Symonds' remarks on Turin will be found.
* The Duke of Savoy at this period was Charles Emanuel IL, who governed Savoy and Piedmont his eldest son took the title of Prince of Piedmont.
;
s
''
The
Po.
In the Rawl. MS. there is inserted, at this point, a double-page map of the Duchy of Savoy by Hondius (undated) with Mundy's route marked in red dotted lines.
Isaac Wake, ?i58o 1632, was the British representative Court of Savoy from 161 5 until his death in 1632. He was knighted, while on a visit to England, in 1619. For a full account of his career see the Diet, of Nat. Biog.
"^
Sir
at the
no
six
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
att
the Gate,
of
the
Dukes
owne
Pages,
Usher,
if it
were
for
the
att the
Dukes
i^tJi.
The
visit
a part
them
the
virgines
Duke
is
of
Mantua
befell this
the
difference
as
Duke,
three
before touched^:
From thence
to the
Dukes
Sonnes, one of
Afterwards
^ i.e.^ as a body-guard. The Swiss mercenaries dated from 1464, when 500 Swiss footmen were brought by the Duke of Calabria, son
Now obsolete.
pantryman
were associated only with food, as those of the butler were exclusively
confined to liquors.
^ Here the author has a marginal note, " My Lord conducted in State into the Cittie, my lords honourable entertainment att Turin by the Dukes order." * Christine, second sister of Louis XIII. of France was given in marriage to Victor-Amadeus of Piedmont in 1619. Symonds, who visited Turin in 1649, says that the inhabitants of the city were composed of "as many French as Italian by reason of the Dutches Vide Appendix Q. of Savoy who is sister to the late King of France." ^ Charles Emanuel I., Duke of Savoy (who was fifty-eight years old at the time of Mundy's visit), had ten children by his wife, the Infanta Catherine, daughter of Philip II. of Spain, five sons and five Margaret, the eldest daughter, was married to Francis daughters. de Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua, in 1608, in order to cement a treaty He died in 161 2, leaving only one surviving child, a with Spain. daughter. The guardianship of the little princess of Mantua led to the most unfriendly relations between Spain and Savoy. There were frequent hostilities, one of the aggressive acts of the Spaniards being the siege of Vercelli, as noted by the author (see ante^ p. 108). Of the other four daughters of Charles Emanuel, two, Marie and Frangoise-Catherine, became nuns the second, Isabella, married the Duke of Modena and died in 1626, and the youngest died in infancy.
:
^ Of the five sons of Charles Emanuel, the eldest died in 1605, and the youngest was Grand Prior of the Abbey of Castile. The three
III
Cittie,
etts.'
Wake
August, 1620.
my
lord
went
to see the
Armour^
About one
parted
my
lord de-
leave of
the
accompanied out of the Cittie in manner hee was received in. And att about a myles end,
:
Wake
kept him
att
Company
Viana (10
(being both in
miles)"*,
which
was
is
de Luces.
a Castle on the
Topp
of a very highe
Sir
The
lyth.
August, 1620.
Isaak
Wake
haveing
my
sons Pindar visited were, Victor-Amadeus, who succeeded his father, Maurice, a Cardinal, who, in 1642, left the Church and married
his niece,
whom
and Thomas-Francis, Prince of Carignan. For a full account of Charles Emanuel I. and his family, see Le Grand Diclionnatre Historique, par Louis Moreri.
^
See note 3 on
p.
10.
720, fol. 36, " La galerie de son Altesse qui est remply et orne de plusieurs chose singulieres et exquises." See also Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 231.
^ ^
note,
"This by
relation."
Voyage to the Levant (in 1689), p. 55, "Turin...! cou'd not. ..discover any other Antiquities than those m the Duke's Gallery, which is full of all sorts of fine Paintings, rare Manuscripts, Medals, Vases, and other Curiosities of that Nature." * Avigliana. Compare Lattsdowne MS. 720, fol. 34, " Avigliana Petite Ville par le milieu de laquelle il fault passer, situee sur une montaigne non toutesfoys gueres haulte." Compare also Raivl. MS. D. 207, fol. 18 {Passage over the Alpes, in 1688), "I took horse at
the three Kings. ..at Turin. ..we. ..had a sight of Avigliano, a place of pleasure belonging to the Duke of Savoy and finely situate on the rising of a hill."
^ This appears to be the Castle alluded to by Vide Appendix G.
Compare Dumont,
A New
Symonds
as Villiano.
112
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
way
the
plaine
mountaines on either
the Posthovvse^
side.
Wee dyned
att
att
three
att
and lodged
the foote of
^ Bussoleno. In the early part of the 19th century this was the usual halting-place for the night for travellers who had crossed Mt. Cenis and were bound for Turin. See Galignani's T7-avelle'r's Gtnde (1819), p. xx., whei^e, however, the "Three Pigeons" is not
mentioned.
^ Novalese was also one of the regular halting-places for travellers between France and Italy up to the early part of the 19th century. Compare the following accounts of the place and the country around
it
"Aupiedde la montaigne [Mt. Cenis] La Novareze...qui est 1575. un gros bourg que ceux de Lanebourg qui parlent francoys nomment La Novalaise et est la pose ordinaire de ceux qui ont passe la montaigne, ainsy que Lanebourg de I'aultre cost^ de Savoye....Icy se commence a parler Italien Piedmontoys qui est une langage fort corrompu...a la sortye de ce bourg Ion commence a cheminer par cjuelques petits plaines pierreuses enserrees de montaignes d'un coste
720, fol. 31 f the afternoon upon rocky ground between the Mountains which were on both sides of a vast height. From the Top of 'em there fell down little Rivulets of snow water, which dividing them selves in falling into severall Channels or Cascades made a rabbling in their discents which added much to the horror of the place, the sight being on all sides terminated with the Prospect of barren Rocks, very high and very steep.... Wee lodged that night at Novalese a wretched little Town aboute three miles from Suse... scituate at the foot of Mount Cenis.... The inhabitants of Novalese get their living by accommodating Strangers with Mules or Chairs for the passage of this Mountain.. ..They are most Notorious Knaves, and lye continually upon the Catch to cheat strangers in their bargains.''
et d'autre."
Lansdowne MS.
rode
all
1688.
"We
Rawl. MS. D. 207. See also Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 225 ff., where the place is called Novalaise, and Symonds' account in Appendix G, where it is La Novaleze. In the GentleincDfs Guide of 1787, the Post is mentioned as the chief inn at Novaleze, and in Galignani's Travellefs Guide of 1 8 19 Novalezza is mentioned as the place for dining after the descent
of Mt. Cenis into Italy.
^ Mt. Cenis. Here the author has a marginal note, "Entrance of the Alpes." Compare Gainsford, Glory of E}tgla?id, p. 9 f for a " Mount Sinese, the onely passage fanciful derivation of the name It is called Sinese, quasi nunquam sifie fteve, of the Alpes into Italy. never without snow, and is indeed a dangerous, tedious and cold travell even in the midst of summer."
:
Ser. n. Vol. 17
Longitude
West 2 of GreenMch
Compiled
for
the Haklujl
Society-
II3
the
August, 1620.
Wee began
to
ascend
Mountaine
which wee found to be steepie and Att three miles wee passed over a litle bridge
aforesaid,
Savoy^
is
The
ascent
may
bee about
five miles.
On
the topp
Lake of about a mile and a halfe in Comis a howse built purposelye when the Kinge of Fraunce his Sister came to be married to the Dukes sonne (as before mentioned^) that they might
a
faire, cleire
passed.
By
the lake
Mountaine.
gresse,
The Duke
was then
in the said
to
meete
my
Turin,
and haveing mett great Companies of his followers in our ascendinge the Hill and on the Plaine. Att our arrivall to the howse, his Lordshipp went to visitt and thanck his
highnes for the great honour and loveinge entertainement
att
Turin
^.
And
soe,
haveing
every
man
allighted^
my
Lord being
carried
downe
in
^ In the map of Savoy by Hondius mentioned in note 6 on p. 109, "La grand +" is marked at the boundary between Savoy and Piedmont. 2 Compare Laiisdowne MS. 720, fol. 28, ''En ceste plaine du Mont
grand et le petit, esquelz y a poisson." D. 207, " Mount Cenis...is the highest and difficultest to passe of all the Alpes Tis Computed to bee three miles in its ascent, three upon the Plain and four in its discent, the top is covered with Snow all Moneths in the year except from the latter end of June to the beginning of August, from which time it begins to fall and continues by fits all the Winter." See Symonds' account of " Mont Sinnys " in Appendix G, and Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant., p. 54 see also A Tour in France and Italy., p. 24. ^ See note 4 on p. no. * See III. pp. 109 Compare Gainsford's remarks on Mt. Cenis and its neighbourlacs le
Senys y a deux
Compare
?\so
Rawl.
MS.
hood. Glory of England., p. 98 f., " The passages to all these places are somewhat fearfuU to strangers, For to ride under, and behold such M.
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Two
whoe
The Descent
three Kings I
is
three miles.
wee dined
att the
Note that
began to
in all the
mountaine
mighty mountaines and rockes, to see the snow dissolve and runne downe with that impetuous force... is a thing both of admiration and pleasure. But for mine owne part, it startled me not at all, in regard I had marched over some mountaines and places in Ireland, especially Pen men m.awre in Wales, which for the length of the passage is the fearefullest that ever I saw... and indeed surmounteth any place of Savoy or the Alpes." See Coryat's Crudities^ vol. i. p. 224, see also Symonds' remarks, quoted in Appendix G, and Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant,
P54' Compare Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 26 f., " Sur le hault de la montaigne y a hommes avec chaires esquelles Ion se met et assist. L'un d'lcieux va devant... tenant comme deux brancards en ses mains lesquelz tirent la chaire, et derrier Icelle y a un aultre homme qui... tient la chaire droicte qu'elle ne renverse....Par ce moyen se faict una lieue entiere en peu de temps estant avec ce bien a son Aise en mauvais chemin. Et d'aultant que premierement Ion usoit de grands rameaux au lieu de Chaires, Ion appelloit cela Ramasser."
Compare also Sloane MS. 4217, Travels (in 1650), fol. 14, "Mont Cenis...the highest hill in Italy.. .wee ventured upon it being covered
with ice and snow.
Morans, that
Chaires
is
men
in
purpose up and downe that hill, fower to every chaire to rest and guide the chaire, whiles the other two beare the burthen they have Irons in the midst of theire shoes which hinder them from slipping." Symonds says the cost of descending the Italian side of the Mountain in a "Chaire" was five shillings. Vide Appendix G. ^ Lanslebourg. The name of this town seems to have been a
for the
;
made
Compare the following puzzle to travellers. " Lanebourg, gros bourg au pied du 1575.
:
mont Senys...ou
Ion
1.
648. 1650.
720, fol. 24 i. Coryat has Lasnebourg. Co?yafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 224. Symonds has " Lanbourg, a small village." Vide Appendix G. "Lanebourg att the foote of Mont Cenis." Sloane MS.
Lansdowne MS.
4217,
fol.
14.
1787.
"Lanebourg the
Tlie Gejitleman's
MSS.
have seen
is
II5
to
Bramant
att
(6 miles), alwaies
betwene the
and lodged
the three flower de Luces I From Lambort hither wee came alonge by a swifte River^, there beinge all the way great falls of Water^ which tumbleinge downe the hills maketh the said River, which runneth with great violence and noyse betwene the Mountaines. The igt/i. August, 1620. From Bramont wee came to St. Michells (8 miles)^, where haveinge dyned, wee pro-
ceeded to
St.
and lodged
by the
^
att the
Johns (4 miles), a Stronge walled Towne Blackemores head"; this day all alonge
Heere
his
Lordshipp had
Italian"
See Appendix G for Symonds' remarks on the "corrupted and "such kind of French" as he heard in his Journey
and
map
Compare La7tsdorvne MS. 720, fol. 21, la sortye se trouve un pont du boys, long de deux traicts d'arc... sur lequel il fault passer, et soubz iceluy cousle une riviere qui vient du mont Senyz, laquelle depuis sa source, Jusques icy est appellee pour sa rapacite Arc et d'icy descendant plus bas est nommee Lisere."
^
The
Arc.
"A
du Montmillian
* Coryat says that he saw "at the least a thousand torrents" between " Aiguegbelette and Novalese." See Coryafs Crudities.,
vol.
^
i.
p.
221.
" St.
le
Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 23. Symonds calls nasty bourg." Vide Appendix G. ^ St Jean de Maurienne. Compare La?tsdowne MS.
roche."
23,
"Sainct Jehan de Morienne....Ceste ville n'est forte ny de murailles, ny de fossez, hors icelle est I'evesche." Du Verdier, Voyage de France, In the map of Savoy by p. 399, calls the place S. Jean de Montane. Hondius (see note 6 on p. 109) it is marked as S. Jean de Muriane. See Symonds' description of the place, quoted in Appendix G. See also Coryafs Crudities., vol. i. p. 223, and Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant., P- 53have found no other reference to the I " Blackemores head." In The Gentleman' s Gidde of 1787 the inns of the Mt. Cenis district are said to be "abominable" and, in 1828, Johnson, Traveller's Guide, p. 39, remarks, " Slept at St. Jean de Maurienne, a miserable inn."
''
The
Arc.
3.
Il6
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
in
the Princes
name^
himselfe not
This
is
a Bishopps Sea.
The
Wee came to Gabella^, and Rammed My Lord and GentleServants and stuffe
men
past forward to
Mummelan\
Att our
etts.
remained heere^
The
berly,
2ist.
August, 1620.
arrivall heere
(Sham-
12 miles),
my
Lord
^ i.e. the Prince of Piedmont, Victor- Amadeus, eldest surviving son See p. 1 10, notes 4 and 6. of Charles Emanuel, Duke of Savoy.
^ Aiguebelle. Mundy's spelling of the name of this place and also Compare Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 532, of Aiguebelette is peculiar. "Aiguebelle.... Petite ville apres laquelle s'eslargit une petite plaine entouree de montaignes par laquelle on va k Montmillan tenant le droict cliemin." Compare also Gainsford, Glory of hngland, p. 27, "The towne of Aguabelle is scituated at the foot of a great rocke, By it runnes the river of as if it lay asleepe in the lap of security. Arck." Symonds calls the place Egbelle {vide Appendix G).
other contemporary travellers do not mention this Johnson visited the place in 1828, Traveller's Guide., p. 38, he " endeavoured to get shelter for the night but the inn was too wretched." Pindar's train does not appear to have stopped at La Chambre, the usual halting place between St Jean de Maurienne and
^
Symonds and
inn.
When
Aiguebelle.
Montmelian. Compare Za/w^fc^/^^ ^6". 720, fol. 20, "Montmillian. montaigne, 011 y a un chasteau sur le sommet d'un roc." Compare also Sloane MS. 4217, fol. 14, "From Chambery we passed by the strong fort of Montemelian... commanding all the valley front." See Gainsford's description, Glory of Etiglarid^ p. 96, and Symonds' remarks quoted in Appendix G. ^ In the Rawl. copy of Mundy's Travels, here follows a doublepage map of France and the South of England, by Hondius, undated, showing Mundy's various routes by sea and land. On the reverse of the second page of the map are the following remarks in the author's own handwriting "Whereas in this mappe are two passages through the whole kingdome of Fraunce described by two red lines, one from Pont debeauvoisin on the borders of Savoy, and the other from Diep unto Bayon the first is punctually deciphered from place to place But the other wee Rid post and took no perticuler notice of places. Only I remember wee past through Roan, Paris, Orleauns, Burdeaux and Bayon. Therefore I drew a Red line at all adventure from either of these places to the other. But I Remember that one night wee went downe a River in a boate, and that wee saw the Citty of Poitiers on our Right hand standing on a hill. I conceave wee came downe the River Loire from Orleauns, for heere the River maketh an angle." 6 In the margin the author has " Schamberly = Shambery," and,, in his Index, " Shamberree, a nett Citty, the Cheifest in Savoy."
^
11/
Wee
ment, this Cittie being the fairest wee saw within the
laste,
tiled
makeinge a
All the
among
of
Labourers
many
Wenns under
differs
two
fists,
Schamberly
of
all
Aiguebelette.
I have found no other reference to this inn. The Gentlematfs Guide of 1787, which characterises all the inns on this route as " abominable," says that Chambery is one of " the best places to ^
repose
^ *
at."
i.e.
St Jean de Maurienne.
The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has " Plates." Symonds has some very amusing remarks with regard to the prevalence of goitre and the cause of the disease {vide Appendix G). Compare Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 531, " Ceux de ce pays ont la plus grand part (comme aussy par toute la Savoye) une louppe soubs la gorge
qui n'est moins grosse des deux poings ensemble k cause de quoy ils sont appellez les Gouns de Savoye, et ceste enfleure la goetre laquelle ne procedde que de la grande froiddeur des eaux qu'ilz boivent qui ne viennent que de nieges fondues, estimee la pire de toutes les eaux avec celle de glace." Compare also Coulon, Les Rivieres de France., vol. ii. p. 123, " Chambery... est embellie de
plusieurs fontaines d'eau vive...cela n'empesche pas que plusieurs des habitants n'ayent une enfleure de gorge, qu'on nomme Goitre, qui est une incommodite presque commune a tous les .Savoyards, causae par la froideur des eaux." See also Coryat, who describes the swelling as of the size of a "foote-ball." Coryafs Crudities., vol. i. p. 223.
Compare Rawl. MS. D. 1685 {Sir Thomas Abdfs Travels)., "July 1633, Chambei'y, capitale ville de la Savoye, qui est au Due d'icelle en tiltre, mais au Roy de P'rance en effet, le Frere naturel de ce Due y gouverne pour le present." For other descriptions of
''
Il8
to crosse
over,
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
att
is
Lake
stored
with fish\
TJie
2,2nd.
AugiLst,
1620.
wee dined
att the
Posthowse^
From
my
Lord
tarried for
Towne
is
River^ which parteth France and Savoy, halfe of the said bridge belonging to the one, and thother halfe to thother
to
Bargueen (10
Posthowse.
miles)**,
and dined
from
the
thence to Avertpiller (4
miles)^,
att
see Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 217; Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant, p. 53 A Tour in France and Italy, p. 23 and Symonds' description, quoted in Appendix G. ' Coryat describes it as "an exi.e. The Lac d'Aiguebelette. Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 215. ceeding great standing poole.'' Compare Coulon, Les Rivieres de France, vol. ii. p. 49, " II y a...quelques lacs qui nourissent force poissons, dont les plus renommez sont ceux de Nissy...et d'Aiguebelette." ^ Compare Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 215, " Aiguebelette, which is the first Alp"; and Sloane MS. 4217, foL 14, "A very high hill called le Mont Aiguebelette." In the map of Savoy by Hondius (see note 6 on p. 109) the mountain is marked as the " Col de I'Aiguebelette." Symonds calls it " Le Montagne de Gibelet" {vide
Chambdry
Appendix G). ^ Compare Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 18, "Aiguebelette.,.. Petite ville autrement appellee La Guybelette." This spelling probably accounts for the author's "Gabelletta." There is still an inn at Aiguebelette called La Poste. * The Guier, a tributary of the Rhone. ^ See Coryafs Crudities, vol. See also Symonds' remarks, p. 215.
i.
quoted
^
''
" in
the margin.
La Poste was
still
Johnson dined
*
there.
the chief inn at Bourgoin as late as 1828 See Traveller's Guide, p. 33.
is
i.
when
called
La
La Verpilliere. In Z^z/j-^'icww^iT/.S'. 720, fol. 17, this place Volpiliere. Coryat has Vorpillere, Coryafs Crudities, vol.
p. 214.
Up
The 2Afth. August, 1620. Wee came to the Cittie of Lyons (12 miles)\ great and populous, through which runneth two Rivers", one of them haveinge twenty and odd floatinge mills^, h'ke to those of Belgrade although they are much inferior in Beautie and bignes. This place is of great Trafifique, aboundinge with Merchants and
Shoppkeepers^
a very
faire
Wee
The hyre
of
our horses from Turin hither cost nine Venetian Chekeens each.
The
This eveninge
all
the Atten-
att
20 solz^ or
2s.
per horse
;
per stage, and a Stage some four, some five English miles
my
Lord
etts.
after.
in the
margin.
;
the last Saone and Rhosne or Rhodanus runneth downe by Marseilles both meeting in one." Author's marginal note, added in his own writing and not found in the B.M.
2
Two
rivers, viz.
copy, Harl.
^
MS.
2286.
i.
Crudities, vol. p. 206, " Over this River (Rhodanus) also there is a very faire Bridge, and ten pretie water Milles I sawe on the water neere to the Bridge, seven on one side, and three on the other." For the mills at Belgrade, see p. 73. * See Symonds' description of Lyons, quoted in Appendix G. Compare also Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 32, Travels (in 1648), " Lyons.... This city which surpasseth most townes of Europe... comprehends within the circuit of her walls, mountaines and plaines, gardens, vineyards &c....for a city so remote from the sea it is the richest
Compare Coryafs
of France."
^ Coryat, in 1608, "lay at the signe of the three Kings, which is the biggest Inne in the whole citie." {Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. In 1675, Englefield {Rawl. MS. D. 197) remarks, "Our p. 211.) Lodging att Lions... was the white Lionn att one Mr Lafrueurs a coukes shop." I have found no other mention of the inn where Mundy lodged. ^ See note 2 on p. 26. Reckoning the sequin at nine shillings, the cost of travelling from Turin to Lyons (no miles according to the author's computation) was about ^ per horse.
''
Tarare.
in a hole, a little
*
The
sol,
{vide Appendix G) says, "Wee lay at Terrara bourg unwald." or sou, a coin worth 12 deniers or about ifd. English.
Symonds
I20
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
26th.
also,
wee came
to
Rovana\
The
2'jth.
Towne on
my
Lord and gentlemen and the other the Attendants, in which wee departed, and that
to
lesse
my
Marseenee (10
then
twentie
present very
miles)*,
haveing
day.
tymes
this
The River
The
28///.
of Loire att
shallowe but in
In our
1620.
Towne
wee came late, wee lodged without the walls. The ydth. August, 1620. Wee came to Novers (12 miles), a faire and stronge Cittie with a stone bridge
Roanne. See Symonds' account of Roanne, quoted in Appendix mentions the two chief inns of the place. 2 Compare Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 32, Ti'aveh (in 1648), "Roane, buih on the river Loire, and is the first towne where the river beares Compare also Du Verdier, Le Voyage de France, p. loi, boates." "Roane. ..est assis sur la rive gauche de Loire, et commence la de porter bateau, bien que ce soit trente lieues de la source. On s'y embarque pour Orleans." See also Coulon, Les Rivieres de France,
^
G.
He
vol.
^
i.
p. 254.
The common English name, in the seventeenth century, for the French ^cu, worth about 4s. 6d. The cost of boat hire from Roanne to Orleans was higher when Symonds made the journey in 1648 {vide Appendix G).
*
Marcigny.
i.e.
Cluny."
^ ^
" Marsigni, celebre Monastere des religieuses de Coulon, Les Rivieres de France, vol. i. p. 254.
St Aubin-sur-Loire.
Compare Coulon, Les Rivie7'es de France, vol. i. p. 259, " Decise est une ville ainsi nommee pour avoir este bastie sur le fonds d'une petite Isle, detach^e de terre ferme par artifice, pour la rendre plus forte."
Decize.
121
Wee
Towne
called
La
and
this
day
gott
tooke a
little
too
much
paines in
my
pleasure.
The
testants,
in
August, 1620.
little
Castle of Pro-
From thence
to Severall
miles^;
Towns
as they stand
in the
Margent (Cone, 4
Ossun, 2
2 miles;
miles'^;
^ Nevers. Compare Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 3, "Nevers...en laquelle y a...pont de pierre." Compare also Gainsford, Glory of England, p. 1 7, " On the river of Loire washing clean the fields with his strange overflowings are erected Cosme, Le Charity, the Citie of Nevers with her long bridge... and many other towns." Coulon, in his Fidele Conducteur, p. 123, writes of Nevers, "Son pont est magnifique, basty de pierres de tallies, et soutenu de vingt arcades, d'une riche structure, avec des pont-levis aux deux bouts, et des tours pour battre aux avenues." See Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 198, where the bridge is described as of wood, and Uu Verdier, Le Voyage de France, p. 103.
1
^ " La Charite... ou y a un fort beau et long pont de pierre de taille." Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. 2. Compare Coulon, Le Fidele Condncteur,
Charitd merita de porter ce beau p. 122, liberalitez, qu'y exercoient autrefois les Moynes
"La
pauvres
Loire."
et les
Pelerins.
On
pour les grandes de Cluny envers les y voit un beau pont de pierre sur le
nom
For Symonds' description of La Charitd see Appendix G. ^ Sancerre. Compare Coulon, Le Fidele Conducteur, p. 273, " Sancerrc.cette ville estoit assez recommandable dans les escrits des Anciens sous le nom de Sacrum Cereris, pource qu'on y adoroit Ceres, la Deese des bleds ou plustost sous celui de Sacrum Caesaris, comme qui diroit I'Oratoire de Cesar." See also Du Verdier, Le Voyage de France, p. 104. Symonds calls the place Sainct Loire and says it was known as " Papaute des Huguenots" {vide Appendix G). * Cosne. Symonds has "Coane" and "Cone sur Loyre" {vide
;
Appendix
^
G).
The
place
is
marked
as
Neuvy
in
map
Ap-
i.e.
Bonny.
G).
{vide
pendix
"^
The modern
i.e.
Ousson.
In Hondius' map of France (see note 5 on p. 116) this place is marked as Briart. See Symonds' remarks on Briare, quoted in Appendix G.
^
Briare.
122
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
(4 miles)\ a stronge
Gean
Towne.
a Protestants howse.
All the
to
from thence to San Benitt (4 miles)^; from thence to Chasteau Neufe (6 miles)^, where was
a Castle, from thence to Gerseaue (4 miles)^;
and from
Wee came
whereon
fifty
river of
Loire,
wee sawe
floatinge
in
our
way
att
least
Mills'^,
tymes
every day.
On
a very faire
;
Alsoe the
Image of the Maid of Orleaunce kneeling on the one side of the Image of our Lady, and the Kinge kneeling on the other side, all artificially cast in brasse''. Of this
1 i.e. Gien. Coulon, Les Rivieres de France., gives the route from " De Sancerre on vogues jusques a Cosne sur Sancerre as follows les frontiers du Nivernois...et de Cosne a Neuvy....De Neuvy on De Bonny descend a Briare...de Briare...on se rend a Bonny on coule k Giem ville tres ancienne et garnie d'un beau pont sur le Loire.... Les Protestants s'en saisirent au commencement de leur revoke, mais les Catholiques la reprirent bien tost."
:
forte."
Lansdowne MS. 720, fol. i, has "Sully, petite ville assez Compare Coulon, Les Rivieres de Fratice^ vol. p. 277, " Entre Giem et Jergeau I'on void sur la main gauche la Duche de Suilly avec
2
Sully.
i.
ancien pont."
its
St Benoit,
named from
Abbey.
5
Chateauneuf-sur-Loire.
Jargeau.
is
place
^
''
marked
T})
on
p. 116) this
See pp.
and
19.
288,
fol.
you
may
284, Directions to Travelters {circ. see. ..a statue of brasse of the Pucel
de Orleans."
1648),
Compare also Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 2, Travels (in " Orleuns. This City in the account of many is reconned the second of France though (in my Judgement) it may content it its seated on the river Loire, the selfe with a third or fourth place streets are the brodest of any that I have scene in France, the buildings but ordinary." For full descriptions of the statues on the bridge at Orleans see Du Verdier, Le Voyage de France., p. 83, and Coulon, Le
;
Fidele Condiicteur.,
p. 126.
23
att,
and
late
Our comeinge
in
occaisoned brevitie
Heere were Coaches hyred for Paris att 4 livers 4 solz^ The per pound weight lumberment. i solz
Boatemen that come downe from Rouana, as others that come downe the River, att their arrival! heere sell their
boates, because they are not worth the labour to be carried
slightlie
made.
All
full
downe
the
Townes,
villages
and
buildings,
meadowes,
gardens,
etts.
The
miles)^,
2d.
September, 1620.
to
Wee came
Tore
to Artenee (12
(8 miles)*,
where wee
All the
way
all
hither
and Levell as
like,
tillage
ground*'.
men
The
"i^d.
September, 1620.
(8 miles)'',
to
Estant
This note
^ ^
In the margin Mundy has written, " Omission in observing." is not in the B.M. copy, Hart. MS. 2286.
Artenay.
See note 4 on p. 98, and note 4 on p. 100. Pindar and his train left the Loire at Orleans and
railway.
Toury.
I
have found no other mention of this inn. Verdier, Le Voyage de France, p. 'j'j f., " Le chemin de Paris a Orleans est pav^ la plus grand part, et sur iceluy se voyent plusieurs villes et Rourgs bien agreables, comme Longjumeau... Chastres...Estampes...on void apr^s plusieurs lieux moindres, et
^
Compare Du
entr'autres Angerville, Thoury et Artenay, le chemin qu'on fait d'icy k Orleans est fort agreable en son vignoble et comme plants de quantity d'arbres." Angerville.
"^
124
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
wee dined, and then to Chatres, where mooresl Halfe the way as
little
wee
Hillie,
fruitefull,
and
full
of Townes''.
to
September, 1620.
Wee came
Longmewe
Belarena (4 miles)^, and from thence to the Cittie of Paris (4 miles). Halfe a mile
(6 miles)^,
to
and then
before
wee came
le
neere,
had
killed
I
a Couzin of
like
Mounseir
Grande".
Hereabouts
had
to
have
bene served a
Copper Chaine.
From
In-
Chatres hither
the
my
selfe
from
riseinge
in
did
tell
neere
greate, all
sight att
St.
one tyme.
streete*^.
Wee
Iron Crosse in
Martins
The
^th.
September, 1620.
Mr
;
Davis^
Mr
my
but
selfe
went
and
first
we
was a
streete,
side from end to end, lyeing levill with the rest of the
Etampes.
The modern Arpajon. Chatres, on the river Orge, eight leagues from Paris, was, a hundred years after Mundy's visit, adjudged to be comprised within the Marquisate of Arpajon and thenceforth became generally known under the latter designation. It, however, appears as Chatres as late as 1770. See the map prefixed to The Gentleinan^ Guide in his Tour through France.
^ ^
^
See
ante., p. 123,
note
6.
Bourg-la-Reine.
Coryat
Longjumeau. Chappel de
la
Royne,
195.
vol.
i.
p. 196.
Gaston-Jean-Baptiste de France, Duke of Orleans (1608 brother of Louis XIIL, known by the title of Monsieur.
1660),
* " Paris. ..vous entrerez dans cette ville...pour y prendre tel logis que vous aviserez...en la rue Saint Martin, ou autre qui ne manquera non plus que celle-la de vous presenter logis commode." Du Verdier, Le Voyage de France, p. ']}> 10 gee ^ See pp. 41 and 46. pp. 41, 44, 48 and 76.
12$
likewise
the
new
bridge'"',
is
also the
in
full
streame'^ out of
the
Statue of king
Henry
exceedinge greatnes,
sent
of Florence^
This bridge was either the Pont Notre-Dame or the Pont Saint Compare Du Verdier, Le Voyage de Fraftce, p. 228, " Le Pont Nostre-Dame, et celuy de saint Michel ont este bastis de pierre, le premier depuis I'an 1507, sous le Roy Louis XII. Avec six arches et 68 maisons de mesme hauteur et largeur aux deux costez Aux quatre coins sont des tourelles, et au milieu des Images de NostreDame et de saint Denys, avec les annes de Paris au dessous, il a este tres-bien pave de nouveau. Le Pont Saint Michel ayant este basty sous Charles VI. s'abbatit I'an 1546, et fut depuis refait avec des maisons basties aux deux costez de hauteur ^gale." See also Coryafs Crudities^ vol. i. p. 171, Heylyn, A Full Relation of Two Journeys, p. 90, and Coulon, Le Fidele Conducteur, p. 28.
^
Michel.
quite finished
vol.
i.
when Coryat
visited Paris
in 1608.
p.
171.
^ In the British Museum copy, Harl. MS. 2286, the words "out of the said Buckett and by Pipes is conveyed" are omitted.
The Louvre. Compare Rawl.MS. D. 197, Trai'els (in 1648), "The river Senne crosses the new brige of Paris of a greate bredthe and Lengthe, on
* 5
both sides are Large high walks paved with frie stone for people tow Their is the pictur of Hennery the 4 of France on walke ovre. horsback upon a greatt breson horse with 4 sclaves chained tow his horse all of brass. The horse stands upon a high mount of white and black marble. Round itt are Iron bars soe that noe man can Compai^e also Sloane MS. 2142, Jour7ial of a Voyage (in tutch itt." "The Pont Neufe which is between the Louvre and 1658), fol. 2 f. the Convent of Augustins was begun to be built under Henry the It contains twelve Arches. third, 1578. At the 12th. Arch of that Bridge on the side of the Louvre is erected a Pomp which mounts the water from the River and represents the Samaratine pouring out water to Christ. Upon it is a Clocke which markes the houres in the forenoone in ascending, and after dinner in descending. In the middle of the Arch is a statue of Brasse representing Henry the
:
126
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
From thence
for the
to
resideth
the
now
building
From
rich
hall,
of
Marble
Marble, white
the
roofife
and black, adorned with Jasper pillars, most richly guilt and excellently painted with
signes-',
Diana, the same that was att Ephesus (as they say), with
the one hand on the
Homes
On the four sides of the marble Pillar on great on horse backe. which the statue is placed, are graven the Principal victoryes of the King." "The yeare i6i4....The Statue of Brasse of Henry the Great, was by the great Duke of Tuscany sent to Paris, and placed with the Horse of Brasse, upon the midst of the New Bridge." An Epitome of All the Lives of the Kings of France, p. 338. For other seventeenth century descriptions of the Pont Neuf see Du Verdier, Le Voyage de Coulon, Le Fidele Conductetir, p. 27 Full Relation of Two Journeys, p. 90; and France, p. 236; Heylyn, Tour iti France and Italy (1675), P- 6.
;
i.e.
street
still
the Rue de Tournon in the Faubourg St Germain. bears the same name.
The
2 The Enghsh Ambassador in Paris at the time of Mundy's visit was Edward Herbert, first Lord Herbert of Cherbury (1583 1648), who had been appointed in 1619. He furnished a house at great For a full account of his expense in the Faubourg St Germain. life and diplomatic career see the Diet, of Nat. Biography. 3 The Luxembourg or Palais d'Orleans, built by Jacques Delrosse Compare Abdy's description of the palace in for Marie de Medicis. 1633, Rawl. MS. D. 1285, "Wee. ..came to Paris, where we saw the Queenes Mothers house, a worke not yet finished, but yet of excellent raritie, there being one walke before the front of the house pavd with blacke and white marble, the pillars encompassing it being also of the same, a gallerie of competent height hung with pictures all representing the story of the life of the Queene Mother even from her There we saw roomes richly Gilded even infancie to this present. beyond admiration." Compare also Du Verdier, Lc Voyage de Fra72ce, " L'Hostel de Luxembourg, basty par la Reine, Ayeule de Roy, p. 75,
Marie de Medecis, qui est sans difificulte dans Paris." See also Coulon, Le Fidele Conductenr,
* 5
le
p. 2)0.
howse
in Paris."
Author's Index.
of the Zodiac.
2/
other Statues of
as appeared
by
roofife
a Spheire
which
Starrs
(as
Heavens, Ecclipses,
;
but then
it
From thence
divers
Sonnes on
one
side,
their daughters
on the others
gowne the
almost de-
ceaved the
velvett.
From thence
the one side
full
to
downe
into the
was
" Diane a la biche," among the "Ancient Sculptures," in the 1 Compare Coulon, Le Fidele Conducteur, p. 49, du Tibre.
Salle " Le
une sale des Antiques remplie de pieces curieuses, une Diane d'Ephese.' 2 The author is alluding to the "Ancient Sculptures" in the Musee des marbres antiques. See Coryafs Crudities, vol. p. 173. ^ See Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 174, and Symonds' description of the Louvre, quoted in Appendix G. See also Coulon, Le Fidele Conducteur, pp. 25 and 49. * This full length portrait of Marie de Medicis, which is still in the Louvre, was painted by Pourbus (1540 1622).
Louvre.... On y void
est
comme
i.
Sloa7ie MS. 2142, fol. 3 (1658), "There is a very fine garden belonging to it [the Louvre], at one side whereof is a high Alley al paved with stone, and set al along with Orange trees. There is also a very faire gallery on another part of the house furnished with the Pictures of many of the Kings and Queenes of France. Out of this gallery there is another, which goes al along the River and is soe long that the end of it can be very hardly discovered." See also Coulon, Le Fidele Conducteiir, p. 39.
^
Compare
128
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
pictures, but not yett finished \
all
and
From
thence to other
with Cloth of
Arras^.
litle
From
thence
to
the
hunge Queenes
all
Cabbinett, being a
rest for
the
admirable workemanshipp
also of
King Henry
his father
Mother,
Ambassador then
in
att Potiers)^
Compare
Tour
(1675), p. 3,
;
"The Louvre
has only one end, and one side of it finish'd and when the rest shall be added, will be one of the most extraordinary Pallaces in the World, both as to its Greatness and Figure, not any in Italy resembling it in either Behind it is the great Garden of the Tuilleries, which is near half as long as St. James's Park: Is prettily planted with Firr-Trees, Cypress, etc., and would be very fine, were they grown up, and that it had Gravel- Walks. Beyond this, is the Cour de la Reyne, a place by the River-side, set with Trees about a Mile long, like the great Walk in St. James's Park wherein the Coaches take the Air in the Evening, and with some jostling, pass and turn, there being in the middle, and at the end, round places for that purpose." See also Coryafs Crudities^ vol. i. p. 175.
: :
^ Compare Sloane MS. ^\i!i,i., fol. 3 (1658), "The Louvre is the Lodging ordinarily of the King when he is at Paris. The building is one of the statelyest of France and the Kings Lodgings as thick In the Chamber where as any mortal man can be ambitious off. he lyes is a place where his bed stands, which is al raild in with great See also A I our in France and Italy., p. 3. rayles of massy silver." 2 Compare Raivl. MS. D. 197, fol. 4 f Travels (in 1648), "I went in the morneing tow see the Louer the Kings pallace itt is a vast Sumtius Building of polliched stone the bigest and finest home in Europe. Wee saw the Kings the Quines the Dauphins and the young Duke of Orlianes Quarters all which are for the most part wennescoted butt excellently carved and gilt and painted by the best masters of France most of Romantick storis and fables. The seating of the roumes are the like butt much finer.... The Roume of Audience is very Long, most excellently well gilt, painted and foull of great rich Chints, the hangings are of cloth of Goulde imbraded with silver, the flower of the Louer is all of wood excellently in Laide."... Compare also Sloane MS. 2142, fol. 3* " The Chamber and Cabinett of the Queenes are as stately and rich as that of the Kings and replenished with very fine and rare Pictures." For further accounts see Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 173 and A Tour in France a?id Italy
,
(i675)> P*
3-
After the reconciliation of Louis XIII. with his mother, Marie de Medicis, at Brissac, in August, 1620, the king went to Poitiers to put the affairs of Guienne in order. See Abrege Chronologique de VHistoire de Fra7tce sous les Regnes de Louis XIII. et Louis XIV.,
vol.
i.
p. 185.
29
Then wee past over the drawe bridge where the Marquesse de Ancres was slaine by the Kings Commaundement^: Soe to Rue Pharaon, where the last King was Killed by Ravilliacke^. Hard by stands Innocents church, rounde about whose Churchyard were great Storehowses
the
full
of
Deadmens
Barrs,
;
also
many
of them
made
into
a wall with
morter
feete.
mens
it
They
few dayes
therein,
little
can bee
sell
And
from thence to
^ The Marechal d'Ancre met his death by the orders of Louis XI IL on the 24th April, 161 7. He was attacked by Vitri and his followers in the middle of the drawbridge over the fosse of the Louvre. Coinpare Rawl. MS. D. 1285 Travels (in 1633), "We were showen the place where Le Marsheshall d'Ancre was pistold by Monsieur de Vitry the King himselfe being at the window and looking on." For an account of the town house of the Marechal d'Ancre, see Appendix G. 2 Henri IV. was assassinated by Frangois Ravaillac on the 14th May, 1610, in the Rue de la Ferronerie. The following quaint account of the murder is given in A71 Epitome of all the Lives of the Kings of France^ p. 339 f " This great King [Henri IV.] was on Friday the 14. of May, 1610 about foure in the afternoon most trayterously murthered in his Caroch with two stabbs with a knife neare the region of his heart, passing in the Streete of the Ferronery neare the Charnells of the Innocents Churchyard, by Francis Ravaillac borne in Angolesme."
,
(in 1733),
-Add.
MS.
22078,
We
where Harry 4 was assassinated." Ferronerie hes between the Rue des Halles and the
120, fol. 2, Travels (in 1648), "Paris... say [saw] the churchyard of St. Innocents which devoures and digests dead bodyes (all but the bones) in 24 howres." See also Symonds' description, quoted in Appendix G. * Compare the two following widely different opinions about the Exchange at Paris: "As for their exchange where they sell many fine and curious things, there are two or three pretty walks in it, but neither for length, nor for the roofe nor the exquisite workmanship
M.
130
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Lady
the
greatnesse
as
beautie
thereof,
being neere to
built,
this
Tower
is
AUmost
all
the
Townes from Orleaunce hitherto, both were walled, some but slightly, and others
1620.
leveing Signor
40 Crownes- per Coach, wee departed, Dominico behinde with a feavour*, and
;
Townes
is
vizt. St.
Deenes (4
it
any way
i.
to
in
London."
Coryafs Cru-
dities, vol.
p. 172.
"The exchange which is a greatt Hall paved with a stone like white and black marble, itt is nerely braude and long, the chops are roung greate heigh pillars so that itt Loukes with inn finer then our exchange, their are close by Sum Long walkes foull of boukecellers chops and other sort of things." Rawl. MS. D. 197, fol. 5.
1 Coulon, Le Fidele Condiicteiir, p. 36, has a long description of Notre Dame. He mentions "les deux Grandes Tours, ou Ton monte par 389 degrez." Compare Heylyn, A Full Relation of two Journeys, p. 69, " Nostra Dame... hath.. .at the front two Towers of admirable beauty; they are both of an equal height, and are each of them y]'] steps in the From hence we could clearly see the whole circuite of Paris, ascent. and each severall street of it." See also Coryafs Crudities, vol. i. p. 172 and Symonds' description, quoted in Appe7idix G. 2 See note 3 on p. 120.
The Dragoman.
*
5
Greek.
See
p. 43,
is
vol. i. p. 169 and Symonds' remarks, quoted in Appendix G. Compare Heylyn's droll description of the place, A Full Relation of two fou7-neys, p. 54, " St. Denis has a wall of a large circuit, and very much unproportionable to the Town, which standeth in it, for all the world like a Spaniards little face in his great ruffe, or like a small chop of Mutton in a large dish of pottage at the three penny Ordinary."
St Denis.
"
Pierrefitte.
Du
ficte,
Verdier,
ou
p.
321,
has
131
(6
Breesa (2 miles)\
Moisea
(2
miles)^
Beaumont
miles), a faire
att
Towne
to
Eveninge
Pisew (4
att
the Crowne.
The
jth.
September, 1620.
;
to
Tilliare (6 miles)^
from whence wee came to a poorc Towne called Lehero (10 miles)'', where wee had as poore entertainment. The 2>th. September, 1620. Wee came to Pouy (10
miles),
and dined
to
Pondormy (14
Crowne.
miles), a walled
Towne
and lay
att the
The
Wee came
to the Cittie of
^ St Brice. See Coryafs Cricdities, vol. i. p. 168. Du Verdier, Le Voyage de Fra7ice, p. 321, has " Saint Prix." 2 Moisselles. Du Verdier has " Moixelles." ^ See Symonds' account of Beaumont in Appendix G. The town is situated on the Oise. *
Pisieux.
Tillart.
See Appendix G for Symonds' description of Beauvais. Compare Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 34, "Passing by Bovy Abervill and some other townes and at length (but not without much danger) arrived For Mundy's route from Paris to Beauvais, compare at Cahs." Coulon, Le Fidele Conducteiir, p. 55, "De St. Denys vous allez par un bon chemin et passez par les villages de Pierre Ficte, St. Brixe, Moiselle,...puis par Beaumont petite ville, par I'Abbaye de Pisieux,... Tillart,... et de la vous arrivez a Beauvais, distant environ de dix-huict Beauvais est une ville ancienne de figure ronde, lieues de Paris. environnde de bons fossez presque tous remplis d'eau, et ceinte de murailles de pierre de taille blanche." * Apparently a copyist's error for Le Hamel, a village lying midway between Beauvais and Poix. ^ Poix de Picardy. See Appendix G. ^ Originally Pont d'Armee, now Pont Remy. Compare Heylyn, A Full Relation of two Joicrneys, p. 186, "The next place of note that the water conveied us to, was the Town and Castle of Pont d'Arme a place now scarce visible in the ruines, and belonging to one Mr. Quercy. It took name, as they say, from a bridge here built for the transportation of an Army but this I cannot justifie." Coulon, Les Rivieres de Fra?tce, vol. i. p. 29, speaks of Pont de Remy, a bridge over the Somme. See also Symonds' remarks on Pont d'Armee in Appendix G.
"
:
92
132
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
Abbeville (4 miles)\ and there stayinge only to breake fast and change one of our horses, wee sett out of Towne,
accompanied with one Captaine Thorneton, an Englishman^, whoe had lived there thirty two yeres.
att
Wee
dined
Bearne (10
miles)^, a
poore
The
to
miles)^,
wee had
from Venice
att
came
in
to Bullien (6 miles)*',
and lodged
the
Grayhound''
The Upper
Towne
standeth on a hill, most strongely walled^, the Maine Sea two or three miles of, from whence came*
a Creeke to the
Towne
Compare Sloane MS. 2142, fol. 2 (1658), "Abbeville... its seated a watry Countrye, having a River running quite through the Towne here are excellent good Pistols made heere, which bring much profitt to those that make them."
1
in
Appendix
and Coryafs
have found no other mention of this individual. See Appendix G. * Montreuil-sur-mer. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has Montareil, and Symonds (see Appeiidix G) has Montrill. Compare Coulon^
Bernay.
Le Fidele Conducteur,
p. 60, " Monstreuil, comme qui diroit Mont Royal... ville forte avec une Citadalle." Compare also Sloatte MS. 2142, fol. 2, " Monstruel...a very strong Towne with a Cittadel, Governor and Garrison."
^
Neufchatel,
now on
the railway.
Du
The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. Verdier and Coulon have Neufchastel.
2286,,
Boulogne. " Bullein, a towne in France." Author's Index. Symonds, in 1648, lodged at the Golden Horn in the "low town." See Appendix G. ^ Compare Stowe MS. 916, fol. 46, Travels (in 1675), " Bologne is a Citty divided into two parts, the higher and the Lower... its Cathedral dedicated to the Blessed Virgin is an Edifice not very Remarkable, it beinge but plaine and noe bigger then the Church of St. Mary For other contemporary descriptions of Overeys in Southwarke." Boulogne, see Coryafs Crudities., vol. i. p. 157 f., Heylyn, A Full Relation of two Journeys., p. 195 f., Du Verdier, Le Voyage de France, p. 251, Coulon, Le Fidele Conductetcr, p. 60 and Symonds' description in Appendix G. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has "cometh."
33
and
our
in sight of
England.
stronge
Towne
of Callias (6 miles).
litle
Two
miles before
arrivall,
from a
hill
Lowe
in
Countries, as Grevelinge^
sepperate from
th' other,
Att
our entrance att the Gates our Gunns were taken from
us
after
mans.
faire
Markett
place",
where
pillars
a Curious
Towne
built, guilt,
and
sett forth
with
and Inventions, haveing many small bells which Chime att certaine howres, makeing also divisions of the Wee had warning not quarters, halfes and whole howres.
or
Marquise.
Gravelines,
now
in France.
towne
is
one
of the best ports the french have on the ocean, it is the shortest passage to England and the last thing which the English lost of all France... they [the French] have much fortified since and made to See also the former to [sic) other walls and motes to the towne." Coryafs Crjidities, vol. i. p. 156 and Coulon, Le Fidele Condt(cieur,
p. 62.
*
Calais.
^
In 1733, Pococke names the Silver Lyon as the best inn in Add. MS. 22978, fol. 4. Coryat, however, remarks, " There are two churches in this towne
[Calais]."
Cojyafs
Crudities., vol.
i.
p. 153.
Compare also Stowe MS. 916, fol. 45, Travels The Great Church onely Remaines unaltered erected by the EngHsh."
**
of
all
the fabricks
See Coryafs Crudities^ vol. i. p. 156. "They have a very strict order in this towne [Calais], that if any stranger of what nation soever he be shal be taken walking by himself, either towards their Fortresse, which they call the Ricebanke or about the greene of the towne, he shall be apprehended by some Souldiers, and carried to the Deputy Governor and committed to safe custody til he hath paid some fee for his ransome." Coryafs Crudities., vol. i. p. 155.
'
134
A JOURNEY OVERLAND
The
\2th. September, 1620.
for twelve
the
Wynde
was deferred
till
the morninge.
is
litle
Lowe
water.
The
iT)th.
September, 1620.
Wee
came
cast
Dover (20 miles)'*. Anchor neere the Towne, from whence there
att
a boate
and carried us
att
all
on shoare
is
as narrow as that
alsoe, heere
and drye
is
lowe water
beinge
filled
and by a Sluce
out att
Lowe
water,
when
and serveth to scowre the Channell or entrance of the Peered Wee lay att the Grayhound^, Mr. Ralph Pindar,
my
lords brother',
^ Catch or Ketch is defined by Murray {Oxford English Did.) as " a strongly-built vessel of the galiot order usually two-masted and of from 100 to 250 tons burden."
Calais
^
*
See Appendix G for Symonds' account of the charges between and Dover. For " French Crownes" see note 3 on p. 120.
mole.
i.e.
Compare Rawl. MS. D. 120, fol. 34, the writer of which had a much shorter passage (in 1649), "From whence [Calais] after two howres being at sea and sufficiently sea sicke I landed again at Dover in England after being abroade sixteen monyths and a halfe."
^ See Symonds' remarks on the "peere" at Dover, quoted in Appendix G. ^ Symonds also patronised this inn. See Appendix G. Ralph Pindar was Sir Paul Pindar's elder brother and the father
''
of Paul Pindar, Junr. (see p. 41). He appears to have been entrusted with his brother's money affairs during the time Sir Paul was Ambassador at Constantinople. In State Papers, Foreign Archives, vol. 147, there are several references to sums of money received by Ralph Pindar for the Ambassador during the period, 1614 1620.
the Pindars were connected by marriage. Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph Pindar was the wife of Thomas Spike, a London merchant, who is probably the "Mr. Spike" mentioned by Mundy and a brother of the Laurence Spike, a member of the
*
Ambassador's
35
London
to
meete
his
Lord-
shipp.
TJie
i^th. September,
1620.
Waggon
a Clock
;
for
3/.
to Gravesend,
it
Heere wee went to see the Cathedrall Church, being goodly to behold without
(12 miles),
side,
faire
steeples,
and
curious, haveinge
on high
full
of small
pillars^,
multitude of windowes of
In this
in
armour of
auntient
brasse
and
Sword
Also
the
is
Sepulchres
of
many
It
Bishopps.
This Cittie
walled round.
hath eighteen
furnished.
Shopps well
The countrey
vallies, well
hetherto
full
T/te
i^th.
Wee came
to
Sitting-
bourne (11 miles); from thence to Rochester (11 miles); hard by is Chattam where rides the Kings Shipps. From
Rochester (7 miles), wee came to Gravesend and there
lodged that nights
The
^ ^
i6th. September,
1620.
My
Lord came
to us at
See
p. 42.
Inn, mentioned by Chaucer in his Canterbury Some traces of the buildwas situated in Mercery Lane. ing still remain, and the vaulted cellars are in excellent condition.
Tales,
The Chequer's
A portion
^ *
is
now known
as Grafton House.
The
i.e.
including the Cathedral. At the end of the i8th century the to twelve by the absorption of the poorest parishes with others more prosperous.
See Appendix G for Symonds' Journey over the same ground between London and Dover
136
Soe hireing
Two
us to
wee came to Islington (4 miles), where wee lay att my lords owne Howse^ The i^th. September, 1620. Haveinge taken my leave of his Lordshipp, and humbly thancking him for divers favours received of him, I came to London (2 miles), and
readye, In which
lay
in
Minceinge lane
to
att late
the
Wyche, brother
my
deceased
made an end
Com-
From London
to Constantinople
....
Now, although I say by land yett it is to bee understood wee passed from Spalatra'^ to Venice by Sea, but landed every night. Likewise wee were certaine dayes in
the River of Loyre and went also ashoare every night
''.
Then from Callais to Dover, which cannot bee avoyded, no more then the crossinge of Rivers. And for any thinge I could gather. The distance of places in Turkic is not accompted by miles or leagues, but by whole dayes and halfe dayes Journeys etts.^
^ The Archbishop at this date was George Abbot, who had succeeded Bancroft in 161 1. He was a staunch protestant and a bitter opponent of Laud's doctrine. 2 An old name for the hght boat, since called a gig. See Smyth,
Sailor's
^
Word
Book.
In 1624, Pindar moved to the mansion he had built for himself in Bishopsgate Street Without, where he died, in 1650.
*
^
James Wyche.
The
British
is
Museum
See pp. 14 and 23, and Appendix B. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, ends here, as
''
far as
Relation II.
^
*
concerned.
Jo7irney througJi Albaftia, yd\. i. p. 39, " The distances in Turkey are very difficult to be ascertained, as they are measured by the time taken by a horse with baggage in going from one place to another."
122.
RELATION
Other Voyages,
III.
from
Constantinople
of
my my
arrival
vizt.
March
in
the 20th.
1620^
went downe
to
my
Freinds
I
made
a voyage
Countrey
Comoditie)*"' for
my
April
I
22tJi.
1622.
my
returne
from Spaine,
to serve
Wyche
him
on certaine Conditions.
^ See p. 7, where the title of this Relation, as given in the "First Table," is practically the same as above. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has "Other Passages occurringe," etc., and, in the "Table" at the beginning of the MS. the B.M. copy has, "Post in Spain and other passages," etc.
^ ^
i.e.
i.e.
620/ 1.
Penryn in Cornwall. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, adds, "and returned to London again the 14th. April 1622."
to
*
^5
For
already spent two years in Seville (see his allusion to the Giralda in that city, see p. 97.
Mundy had
p.
14).
^ Compare Rawl. MS. C. 799, fol. 106 b, "Barcelona.... The Merchandize that is staple, and the quantity that will sell here is Per annum 1000 Butts of Pilchards at about Royalls 50 for every
Richard Wyche was the brother of James Wyche, Mundy's former master. See pp. 14, 23 and 136, and Appendix B. ^ This sentence is omitted in the B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286.
''
138 Aprill
i^tJi.
By my
said
Spaine
and
with one
Henry
Davis'*.
Wee
Gravesend.
Next day
to Dover.
On Monday wee
following
crossed
att
wee were
Y'ron
kingdome of Spaine and Province of Guipiscoa Soe that in Seaven dayes wee went through all Fraunce from Deepe in Picardy or Normandy" to Bayon in Gascony haveing had very good way, good
in the
or Biscay^;
miles att
the
most).
chaunged eighteen, nineteen, twenty horses a day, sometymes twenty-one, twenty-two, a very painfull imployment
to
for
is
the
better
first
In
1
my
opinion,
there
accomodation
post
Among
the
influential brother-in-law.
2
Wyche's
part of this and the preceding paragraph. Harl. MS. 2286, the passage runs, " I covenanted with Mr. Richard Wyche to serve him five yeares. Att the end of three,, vizt. in Aprill 1625, 1 was sent post into Spaine with one Henry
In
Davis."
^ Henry Davis was back in London a few weeks later, for, in State Papers., Foreign Archives, vol. 148, there is a note of letters delivered by him to the Levant Company on the nth May, 1625. * Compare the following accounts of Dieppe in 1648 and 1675: "Deepe.. ..This towne is seated upon the mouth of the river Somme and is over looked by two mountains. The port is safe, but the entrance somewhat incommodious. On the left hand of the haven (as I entered), stands a strong fort which commands the haven. The towne is populous and the streetes very spatious. On the further end of the towne is built a castle which commands the towne." "Thursdaye the 5 of August wee landed Eaivl. MS. D. 120, fol. i. It is a good big towne situated upon the British ocean at Dipe. there is one hansum strite and the towne is verey hansumly paved with good brade stones. I Laye att the signe of Lacrosse or crosiur." Raw'l. MS. D. 197, fol. 2. ^ Irun is in the province of Guipuzcoa. ^
The author
is
less exact
than usual.
Dieppe
is
in
Normandy.
FROM ANNO
rideinge
in
162O TO
ANNO
1627
39
this
then
in
any other
etts.^
Kingdome (and more frequently used) place. In our way wee came allso to
to St. Sebastian, a
Burdeaux
From
Y'ron,
wee came
Towne
I
in
found
my
From thence
came
to Valle-
Chauncery
in
This place
the
Kingdome
Hither
retire divers
1 For Mundy's remarks on this journey across France, his route as traced on the map, and his reasons for not detaiHng his haltingplaces, see note 5 on p. 116.
Lithgow,
who
3 In the B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, these last two paragraphs run as follows: "Satterdaie night what tyme wee departed London to the 8th day after, being Sondaie, wee crossed the whole kingdome
of France from Callais to Bayon, I sale from London to Deepe, and soe to Bayon, and to Yrone the first Towne in Spaine, being thence to Sansibastians a Sea Towne in Biscay, then ) myles, ( Here I found Mr. George Wych to Victoria a Cittie in Castile. prisoner about a Contract for Copper."
" Valledeolid. Here the author has the following marginal note In Anno 1605, and the 2nd. of King James [the First of England], Phillip the 3rd. [of Spain] kept his Court heere, where the peace was concluded betweene England and Spaine. And here the same year was Phillip IIII. borne." With regard to these statements, Mundy seems to be in error as to the keeping of the Court and the signing
*
:
Philip III. appears to have of the treaty at Valladolid in 1605. remained at Madrid during the whole of 1605 and it was there that the Earl of Nottingham, Lord High Admiral, witnessed the ratification of the treaty between England and Spain, which concluded the war Mundy is correct as to begun during the reign of Elizabeth. Philip IV., whose birth took place at Valladolid on the 8th April, 1605.
'
The
was
"
fixed at Valladolid
by Juan
II.
in
1442.
See p. 138. The Calendar of State Papers contains no reference to this "Contract" nor have I found any allusion to it in any contemporary MS.
140
Amongst
dyed
the
att
the once
Duke
of Lerma,
now
Cardinall,
my
in a
built
by himselfe^
To
cawses, as well
Heere
is
many
pleasant and
artificiall
have
}^ett
uniformitie,
Pincia, was called by the Moors, Beladpopularity of the town dated from the beginning of the 15th century when it became the residence of Juan II. Charles V. added much to its beauty; Philip II. was born there (21 May, 1527) and gave it the title of city.
1
Valladolid, the
Roman
Waled.
reign of Philip III. coincided with the rise and fall of this Francis of Roxas and of Sandoval, Marquis of Denia, chief equerry to Philip III., was, immediately after the accession of that monarch, created Duke of Lerma and entrusted with the His arrogance and whole administration of the affairs of state. extravagance procured him many enemies, and his unpopularity was further increased by the destruction of a fleet sent by him to attack In 1604, he concluded a peace with the English coasts in 1599. England (see ante, note 4 on p. 139), and in 1608 he concluded a These two acts were so unpopular that his truce with Holland. downfall became inevitable. His son, Uzeda, had gradually supplanted him in the king's favour, and, together with Aliaga, Philip III.'s At the age of seventy, confessor, succeeded in procuring his disgrace. he was created cardinal by Pope Paul V., with unusual marks of In 1618, the disgraced Duke of Lerma was respect and distinction. ordered to withdraw from Madrid. He retired to his paternal estates, where he died, as stated by Mundy, in 1625.
2
The
nobleman.
This statement
is
not
quite
correct.
The Duke
of
Lerma
restored
and
beautified the
1463,
had been
rebuilt, in
Dominican Convent of San Pablo, which by Cardinal Juan Torquemada. The arms
of the Cardinal Duke of Lerma are still to be seen on the upper portion of San Pablo, but the statues of the Duke and of his wife, which formerly ornamented their tomb in that church are now in the Museum at Valladolid.
*
on
p.
39.
5
^'
FROM ANNO
1620 TO
ANNO
1627
14I
many
baite their bulls with men, run their horses, etts. publique sports and pastimes, which are performed heere with
more
on
have scene
els
where,
Bull
baiteinge,
shewes
heere
I
and
daunces
Corpus Christi
day'^ etts.
And
remained about
my
passage
in
the
for
England.
In our
el
Victoria lyes
by
nature, partly
flights shotte
Troughes made
for
might not
molest passengers.
whoe lived heere as an Hermitt. By a certaine passage wee were conducted upp into the said rock, where wee found it full of concavities, holes Att and Conveyances, some passable and some not.
length, they brought us to a fountaine naturall, the best
^ Here the author has a marginal note, "The Ochavo, being two Streets crossing one another making eight angles on pillars with shopps underneath with a space to passe betweene." To this is added a rough sketch of the form of the Ochavo. The above note is in Mundy's writing and is not found in the B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286. The small Plaza del Ochavo lies to the east of the Plaza Mayor at Valladolid.
2
3
i.e.
on the Thursday
after Trinity
Sunday.
In State Papers, Foreign Archives., vol. no, there are several references to the "Marget" or "Margarett" when she was chartered by the Levant Company in 1626 to go to Aleppo, but I have found no allusion to her commander in the previous year.
* 5
The river Oria takes its rise near this mountain. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has, "through
the topp of
142
that ever
I
that kinde, or
is
see,
in
strive to
imitate Nature
etts.,
by placeing
would serve
From hence
into the
them againe
if
Sunne
it
in
Sommer
tyme
is
much
salt
it
yeildeth great
profitt to
whom
apperteynes, being
the Sea^
^ Compare the following description of the route from San Sebastian over the Mts. of S. Adrian and of the grotto of that saint in Relation die Voyage d'Espagne (in 1679), "En sortant de Saint Sebastien, nous enti'ames dans un chemin fort rude, qui aboutit k des Montagues si affreuses et si escarpees que Ton ne peut les monter on les appelle Sierra de Sant Adrian. EUes ne qu'en grimpant montrent que des Precipices et des Rochers....Des Pins d'une hauteur extraordinaire couronnent la cime de ces Montagnes....Vers le haut du 'Mont Saint Adrian, on trouve un Rocher fort eleve, qui semble avoir et^ mis au milieu du chemin pour en fermer le passage, et separer ainsi la Biscaye de la vieille Castille. Un long et penible on marche travail a perce cette masse de pierre en fagon de voute quarante ou cinquante pas dessous sans recevoir de jour que par les ouvertures qui sont a chaque entree elles sont fermees par de grandes Portes. On trouve sous cette Voute une Hotellerie que Ton abandonne I'Hyver a cause des Neiges. On y voit aussi une petite Chapelle de Saint Adrian, et plusieurs Cavernes ou d'ordinaire les Voleurs se
; :
retirent."
copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has, "to light our said Candles, tymes the dampe would put them out." 2 Mundy seems to have verified the number of miles when he revised his MS. in 1649/50. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has
2
The B.M.
for often
"it
is
about
myles."
FROM ANNO
Returninge
I
162O TO
ANNO
627
43
for
found
my
(In
our
A
to
litle
after
life^
my
and
comeing
I
My
Master
left this
againe
downe
my
freinds in Cornewell
att
Home,
made a voyage
and biggest
fairest
Shipping, that
The Sea
is
att the
same tyme,
it
doth
See
ante, p. 141.
i.e.
Richard Wyche.
co^y, Harl. MS. 2286, has "passing through Chensford in our waie." It is interesting to note that, as late as the close of the last century, the older inhabitants of Essex still spoke of their county town as "Chensford."
3
The B.M.
For particulars of Richard Wyche, see Appendix B. ^ Mundy's native town was Penryn. of London. The B.M. copy, Harl. MS. 2286, has "In the terme of one yeare and halfe I remayned with my Father I made a Voyage into Spaine for accompt of my Uncle and Father, And beinge returned I went to St. Maloes in Brittaine." From this point to the end of the paragraph, the two copies ai'e identical. * Here there is a marginal note in the B.M. copy only, "From lowe water to full Sea, about eleven or twelve fathome." 9 St Malo is noted for the highest tide in the Channel, but Mundy is a little beyond the mark in his estimate of the height to which it rises, though he is correct as regards the ports on the English side. Here the author has a marginal note, "Strange Spring tides and as strange a Custome by useing doggs to guard the Citty by night."
*
'^
i.e.
"^
i**
144
and
my
or beast, haveto
peices,
in
and
the
their
Theis
the
morninge
last
first
enter
att att
that
goe forth
From thence
went
It
to
the
Island of Jersey,
litle
some
waste
litle
Towne
plenty of Cider.
many
speake English.
Maloes,
from Normandie.
From thence
returned to
St.
Countries,
came
to
London
East
againe,
where
found
Company
of English
Merchants trading
their
for
India'', to
proceed thither in
next shipps.
take leave of
my
freinds,
Christmas 1627,
came
1 "On dit que le soir, en fermant les portes de la Ville, on lache ce que je douze gros dogues, pour n'etre pas surpris des ennemis remarque contre ceux qui disent que S. Malo est garde par des chiens." Le Grand Diet. Historiquc (17 17) s.v. Saint-Malo. Compare also Coulon, Les Rivieres de France., p. 225, " S. Malo... La ville est importante k cause de son assiette, qui la fait garder comme una Clef de France on dit qu'elle a des Dogues, qui font la ronde toute la nuict autour de ses murailles avec plus de seurete que des Soldats."
;
:
2 A mistake for twelve. See Le Gra?id Diet. Historique, noted above, also other later descriptions of the Island of Jersey.
3
St Helier.
The B.M.
"whoe hath
his
Governor
there."
^ The wording of this paragraph is somewhat different in the B.M. copy, but the sense is the same. 6 The B.M. copy, Hart. MS. 2286, has, "Lastly I returned to London, and beinge desirous to see Countries I gott entertaynement of the Honourable Company," etc.
FROM ANNO
againe for
will
162O TO
ANNO
1627
HS
London
to attend
my
honourable Imployers
and pleasured
Computation of Miles and distance of some Places
in this Relation.
From From From From From From From From From From From From
London to Famouth is Famouth to Sivell and backe againe Famouth to London againe London to Deepe^ Deepe to Bay on by land Bayon to Valledeolid
.
...
is
Miles
220
2380
220
180
.... ....
520
210
180
Sebastians to
London by Sea
780
I
....
the
10
220
165
St.
70
165
From St. Maloes to Famouth From Famouth up to London, downe into Countrey and upp to London againe All theis severall Traverses you may finde in
former Relation and amounteth
660
the
some
of Miles
......
also recollected
in all to the
6080
as
is
by memorie
Relation
^ Mundy entered the service of the East India Company as a Junior Factor at the salary of ^25 per annum. In the Minutes of the Company {Court Book, vol. x. p. 290) under date 22nd Feb. 1627/8, there is the following entry, "The sallary of Peter Mundy enterteyned as an Under Factor being 25li. per annum, it was this day ratified and confirmed and in respect of his necessitie the Court was then also pleased to imprest unto him 5H. of his said wages for his better accomodation and setting out to sea."
'^
of distances in the
of distances
in
omitted.
the
MS.
2286,
ends here.
APPENDIX A\
EXTRACTS^ FROM BLOUNT'S VOYAGE INTO THE LEVANT, WITH MUNDY'S NOTES ON VARIOUS
PASSAGES.
lately
performed
by
Master
Henry
Blunt
Gentleman^, from
Etigland by the
way of
Bosnah,
moderne
Gran Cairo
conditioft
Andrew
Crooke,
and are
to
yard, 1638.
In the Ra-wlinson copy of Mundy's MS. on the reverse of the doublemap of Europe, there are (as stated in note 2 on page 11) several extracts from Blount's Voyage into the Levant, signed by Mundy, with a note, " written, Penrin the first February, 1649/50." These extracts are given by Mundy as an Appendix to Relation I., but, in reality, the remarks on Alexandretta excepted, they refer to the journey from Constantinople to Rovigno, as
1
page
described in Relation II., pp. 41 The passages selected are not accurate 89. quotations from Blount, but abstracts made by Mundy, who adds his own comments thereon. For the sake of clearness, Blount's exact words are reproduced here, and Mundy's version of them, together with his own remarks,
are
added as
^
foot-notes.
The extracts are taken from pages 5 28 of the 3rd edition of Blount's The book comprises 126 small octavo pages. The first part conwork.
tains
an account of the author's travels and the second a disquisition on the Turkish government.
^
made
nth May,
1634,
and
* Henry Blount was born in 1602, was knighted by Charles I. in 1640, and died in 1682. See the account of him in the Diet, of Nat. Biography. ^ There were eight editions of the work between 1636 and 1671. There is also a reprint in Osborne's Collection of Voyai;es, 1745, and in Pinkerton's Collection, 1808, besides a German edition in 1687, and two Dutch editions, 1707 and 1727.
I47
the Adriatique,
Rovinio^ a Venetian City in Istria it stands in a creeke of upon a hill promontory which hath two thirds
;
washed by the Sea the South East side joyned to the Continent, the soyle rocky and baren, as all that side along the Gulfe; it is an hundred miles from Venice, and therefore being so farre
within the Gulfe,
is
much
danger, yet
:
hath
it
from
is,
by reason of the
scituation,
most
apt to
command
it
and now, though in times of firme peace, keepe it with strong companies both of Horse and Foote... after a dayes view of this place, wee Sayled to Spalatro, a City of Sclavonia, kept by the Venetians as their onely Emporium, plyed successively with two Gallies, which cary betweene Venice and that place such merchandize as are transextraordinarily,
it
stands in a most
:
on the South
in the
Dioclesian his Palace Southward of the towne is the Sea, which makes an open Port capable of ten or twelve Gallyes without is an unsecure Bay for great Ships, at the entrance above halfe a mile broad, yet not so renowned for the skill of Octavius, who chained it up when hee besieged Salonoe*, as for the fierce resolution of Vulteius, and his company there taken in this Towne the Venetians allowe the great Turke to take custome of the Merchandize whereupon there resides his Emir or Treasurar who payes him thirty five thousand Dollars a yeare**, as himselfe
:
introduces his Appendix thus: "Mr Henry Blunt Gent, in his voyage into the Levant performed by him in Anno 1634, printed Anno 1638, the third edition, saith as follovveth Rovignio, a small city in Istria, p. 5, see this booke, fol. 13." After each extract Mundy gives the page in Blount's work, and the fol. in the Ratvlinson MS. on which there is an allusion to the place in question. For Rovigno, see also Relation II.,
1
Mundy
book
intituled a
p. 89.
2
11
Wee
paragraph.
*
is
Mundy's comment on
this
rebuilt
*
by Tiberius.
the description of Spalato thus: "Spalatro a city of Sclavonia; they pay the Turck 35,000 ducatts per annum." See Relation II.,
pp.
Mundy sums up
8688.
148
APPENDIX
told
A.
EXTRACTS FROM
and strong companies
and others
to
me
;
guard
this city
so unusefuU
much worth
as
and so covets it not like Zara, for if he did, he has a terrible advantage upon it, having taken from the Venetians Clyssi, not above foure miles off which is the strongest
;
Dogliana
for three
farre higher
dayes together
day
his [day's]
having for the most part rode thus nine dayes, wee came into
a spacious and fruitefull playne, which, at the West, where wee
entred, at least tenne miles over,
is on the North and South sides and pleasant hilles, still by degrees
immured with
ridges of easie
till,
after
:
six
it
wee the city Saraih, which extends from the one side to the other, and takes up part of both Ascents at the East end stands a Castle upon a steepe rocke, commanding the Towne and passage Eastward. This is the Metropolis of the kingdome of Bosnah it is but meanely built and not great, reckoning about fourescore Mescheetoes and
there found
;
:
my
upon Germany
those
size,
to
be the offspring of
for their
old
huge
which,
now degenerate
and
in a
Mundy remarks on this [i.e. Clissa] the stronguest landfort hee had seen." See Relation II., p. 85. ^ "The hills of Dovvlanee expressed and magnified above the Alpes" is. Mundy's comment on this passage. See a\so Relation \1., pp. 83 and 112 114. ^ Here Mundy gives the following note " Sarai, which I otherwise call Bosna-sarai. Sarai in Turkish signifies a pallace or court and Bosna is the province, soe Bosna Sarai is the court or cheife citty of the kingdom or province. It hath eighty mosches, Messets, or Turkish Churches and about 20,000 houses." See also Relation II., p. 81 f.
:
" Keeleesh
* ^
See Relation
II., p. 8r.
as.
old German Empire extended down the Illyrian coast, as far Spalato, or nearly so, long before and long after the author's time.
The
I49
little
length wee
Towne upon
full
Wood
we divided our Caravan of sixescore Horse into two parts... so in three dayes we came safe to Belgrada^. This Citie, anciently called Taurunum or Alba Graeca, was the Metropolis of Hungary till wonne by Sultan Solyman the
stately
is one of the most pleasant, 1525*. it and commodious scituations that I have scene ^; it stands most in a bottome, encompassed East-ward by gentle and pleasant South-ward is an easie ascents, employed in Orchards or Vines
hill,
another
the West
End
by reason
rest,
and
bearing a goodly strong Castle, whose walles are two miles about,
and out-workes*: this Castle on the West side is washed by the great River Sava, which, on the North of the Citie, loses it selfe in the Danubius, of old called Ister, now Duny'', and is held the greatest River in the world, deepe and dangerous for Navigation, runnes East-ward into the Euxine or blacke Sea, in its passage receiving fifty and odde Rivers, most of them navigable two rarities I was told of one was this River, and, with my owne experience, found true that at mid-day and mid-night the streame runnes slower by
excellently fortified with a dry ditch
:
:
much then
Rhoane
at
at other times
this
upon the
Lyons ^: their clakkers beate much slower at those times then else, which argues like difference in the motion of
^
See Relation
II.,
pp. 78
district.
II., p. 78.
^ Pindar's train also occupied three days in the journey from Belgrade to Valjevo. See Relation II., p. 78. * Belgrade capitulated to Sulinian I., the Magnificent, on the 2Qth Aug. 1521. Five years later, on the 29th Aug. 1526, Suliman defeated the Hungarians at the battle of Mohacz, and, on the loth Sept., entered Belgrade.
5
Belgrade
pp. 72
"much commended"
is
Mundy's comment.
tioit II.,
''
75.
II., p. 74.
See Relation
The Latin names were the Hungarian name for the river. Danubius for the upper and Ister for the lower course of the stream.
Duna
is
See Relation
II.,
150
APPENDIX
A.
EXTRACTS FROM
;
the cause
is
for there
gone
in a
as a well,
river, I have Boat and tasted of the Danuby as Cleare and pure then putting my hand not an inch further, I have
my
teeth
yet did
it
expected^
but hath some other secret ground of the antipathy, which though not easily found out
is
very effectuall
for they
The
Castle
is
the Emperour^:
castle (for I
that
some forty or fifty Brasse Armes and inscription of Ferdinand which to mee seemed strangest in this
up and downe) was a round
had
^ Other travellers, besides Blount, remark on this peculiarity of the current of the Danube at Belgrade. In Harl. MS. 6796, p. 33, Voyage de France a Constanlinople, ? 1583, we have the following account: " Le Cours du Danube est 700 lieues francois, recoit 60 rivieres navigables, va contre le cours du soleil du couchant au levant... a cecy de remarquable que le vers le milieu de son cours le soleil estant en sa forme un peu devant et apres midy diminue la force de son cours, ce qu'il paroist des moulins qui sent au milieu, de I'eau qui ne meulent pas tant vers midy que le matin ou le soir." Des Hayes, who travelled to Belgrade in 162 1, has a similar story, Voiage de Levant, p. 49, " Pendant que nous fiismes sur le Danube, nous observasmes une chose qui est difficile a croire et qui pourtant est vraye et digne de remarque; c'est que cette riviere allant du Couchant au Levant, le Soleil estant en sa force, en arreste le cours de sorte qu'un peu devant et un peu apres
midy
ne va pas si viste qu'elle fait le soir et le matin quand le Soleil a moins de force mais I'on ne s'aper9oit point de ce changement que de Bude a Belgrade ce qui se voit aisement par les moulins qui sont au milieu de I'eau, et qui sont grandement dangereux, lesquels ne meulent pas tant a midy comme le matin et le soir."
elle
: :
^ Blount is partly correct in his statement. The Danube is yellow and the Save blue, and the two rivers run side by side, distinct in colour, for about three quarters of a mile [not sixty miles) beyond their junction, blending just below the fortress at Belgrade. Mundy sums up Blount's description of the Danulje thus: "The River of Danubius and Savus Runs about 60 miles in one Channell unmingled, Danubius very Clear, Savus extreame muddy; and of Danubius that it should run swifter at Noone and Midnight then at other tymes, observed by the Clackers of their Milles, which then strike oftner and quicker, the reason not knowne." See also Relation II., p. 73.
Ferdinand
II.,
Emperor
of Germany, 1619
1637.
See Relation
II., p. 75.
BLOUNT S VOYAGE INTO THE LEVANT
seldome practised;
is
151
is
like old
Romes Gemoniae^;
;
the
Tower
and round, but within severed into many squares of long beames, set on end about foure foot a sunder each beame was
large
the person
condemned
amongst those hookes, which gave him a quicke or lasting misery, as he chanc'd to light then, at the bottome, the river is let in by grates, whereby all putrifaction was washt Within this great Castle is another little one, with works away.
was naked
let fall
:
of
its
owne.
had
like
to
gave
me
and get
off:
when he
Empire; it is death for any and the Captaine is never to goe forth without particular licence from the Emperour...we set forward for Sophya^, which in twelve dayes we reacht...in the way, wee passed by a Palanga, which is a Village fortified with
warres on Turke or Christian
to enter;
mud
all
Turky, especially in
or Outlawes, like the
many Mountaineers
spoyle'*,
wild Irish,
who
live
upon
towne, called
Nisse^
In twelve days wee came to Sophya, the chiefe Citie (after
the Turkish division) of Bulgary,
but,
Geographie,
it
stands
it
in
Macedonia
lost
upon
the
confines
of
Thessaly
of
all
nor hath
yet
out,
is
it
and
fruitfull valley'';
^ The Gemonije were steps cut out of the Aventine, down which the bodies of criminals strangle 1 in the prison were dragged by hooks and afterwards thrown into the Tiber.
^ ^ * ^ ^
II., p. 62.
II., II.,
II., p. 69.
See Relation
II., p. 63.
152
APPENDIX
A.
EXTRACTS FROM
South-ward, three miles
off,
hils
stands
an high and steepe mountaine, where Snow appeares all the the Jewes and Christians have here the doores of their yeare houses little above three foote high, which they told mee was
:
that the
in their Horses,
;
who
else
would
use them
which
Here is the Seate of the Beglerbeg or Viceroy of all Greece, by the Turkes called Rumely'; with many brave Mescheetoes, especially the great one in the middle of the Towne, and another
in the South-side, with a magnificent Colledge
stately
:
it
hath
many
the
Hanes
:
or
Kirevanserahes ^
and
exquisite
Bathes,
Potarzeeke
the passage
is
famous
for Antiquities
sixteene, or
his Euridice*:
hath divers
none very
divers,
Low
who by
little
suspicious passengers
little
in the lowest of
I conjectured,
Brooke, of which
that the old Poets
Dames
uncertainely reckoned to Macedonia, Thrace and Thessaly^ At last we came to an high and large mountaine, of a dayes
it
to
i.e.
Roumelia.
See Relation
II., p.
Khans
or Caravanserais.
II.,
See Relation
II.,
pp. 52
54.
:
^ *
^
See Relation
Compare
f.
passage and adds his own note as follows " About twenty miles beyond Sophia towards Phillippopolis are certaine hills which hee was informed by an ancient Jew to bee Rodope where Orpheus Lamented his Euridice, and in one of the Vallies, the River Strimon, where Orpheus was torne in peeces by the Thracian dames. The place hath ever bin uncertainely reckoned to Macedonia, Thrace and Thessaly, about four The story happened Anno Mundy, miles this side Cappeekeeoy [Kapuli]. 2700, and 1244 years before Christ." See also Relation II., p. 61, note 9. " Thermopylae is thought to bee at ^ On Thermopylae Mundy notes, Cappee Keeoy (Cappee in Turkish is a gate or porte), where it is thought Leonidas, king of Sparta, with 400 souldiers kept the passage against Xerxes with 1000,000 men; read the story here, p. 19 [of Blount's Voyage\, Anno Mundi 3470, before Christ, 474." By " Cappee Keeoy" Mundy means Kapuli. See Relation II., p. 61.
Mundy
abstracts
53
now
mee
that
how once
Army
at
make good
that narrow
Army might
it; and knowing they went had care of nothing but Sepulture, wherefore, each of them which of old was much regarded carried his winding sheete wrapt about his head, and then with
were brave
Spirits
who undertooke
whereupon, for losse of their owne lives saved their fellowes an Honourable memoriall of that exploit, the Levantines used to wrap white linnen about their heads, and the fashion so derived
:
may be
and
this
might
Thermopylae ^
all
if
Fields;
for,
inhabiting and
Champagne^ betweene
above
Philip,
Mountaine
famous
:
and
for
Philippopolis,
built
of
by
called
Campi
Philippici,
Roman
civill
first
betweene Caesar
and Pompey
The
Marke Antony,
it
against Brutus
and Cassius
is
a Valley,
much
as
it
resembles our
is
Downes
for, just in
that manner,
there yet remaine the heapes where the Slaine were buried, and
good
^
Compare Joiiniall of a Voyage thro' France and Italy (in 1658), Sloane 2142, "April 28. ..wee rid some .^o miles this day, most of it being very bad and difficult way to passe being constrained to walk a foote 14 mile downe a Mountaine and soe wee entered into the Country o^" the Valtolines which are a People that have four or five little Townes in their possession but among the Mountaines, All Catholickes and under the power of the Orisons.... April 30... we lay at the foote of a greate Mountaine that seperates the Country of the Valtolines from that of the Orisons." The Valtellina is a It was seized by the Orison League district in N. Italy near the Rhsetian Alps. At the instigation of Spain, (he Catholics in 1 51 2 and ceded to it in 1530. After much contention berose and murdered the Protestants, July, 1620. tween the French and Austrians, the neutrality of the Valtellina was assured
MS.
in 1639.
^
See Relation II., p. 61, note 6. For Mundy's remark on " Champion Countrie," see Relation
II., p. 60.
154
APPENDIX
A.
EXTRACTS FROM
and
the
Trenches;
Caesars
the
other neerer
dyed but
fifteene
;
thousand
two hundred,
is
many
this
proportion
greater
made good in the heapes, those towards and much more in number then the writes that after Pompey and the maine of
hill
Philippopoli being
other
his
then Caesar
fled,
Army was
which
hill
it.
on
Towne betweene
the two
place,
it
;
it is but a small Towne reckoning not above foure thousand houses but is very pleasant
with
Hence we passed East-ward through the rest along the Monuments of Brutus and Cassius his Tumuli are many, some great, some small, more
together, as the slaughter hapned,
defeature; the
or lesse close
least eight or
flight
and reach
it
at
nine miles in
length,
extending as
seemes the
did,
towards PhiHppopolis^,
now
in
two dayes we
^
arrived.
passage under the heads of " Phil-
Mundy comments
at length
on
this
lipick feilds"
and "Burialls":
" Campi Phillipici or the Phillipick feilds is thought to bee the plaine country betweene Phillippopolis and the Hills, six miles beyond Yelkeeoy [see Relation II., p. 60 f.], famous for the Romaine Civill Warre decided here in twoe battles, viz., betweene Ceasar and Pompey, allso betweene Augustus and Marck Antonio against Brutus and Cassius, Ceasers Near the Hills, the other Near Phillippopolis. Allso in Sir Walter Rawleighes History of the World, lib. 4. p. 229, saith, Eumenes burned the bodies of his owne Men and interred the bones and ashes of his captaines and common Souldiers apart, Raysing upp heapes of earth as mountaines over them and soe went his way. [The passage quoted occurs on p. 192 of Book iv. in the 1614, 1631 and 1634 editions of Ralegh's work.] The battle betweene Antigonus and Eumenes was as farre as I can gather Near this place and perhappes the same buriall places, Eumenes beeing overthrowne through the treachrey of his owne ; Sir Walter Rawleigh Lib. 4. 2(1 in the editions mentioned above]; hee was finally p. 250 [pp. 208 betrayed, taken, bound and delivered (by Teutamos and the silver Sheelds) unto Antigonus who putt him to death. To this end came the traveiles of that Worthy generall Eumenes, who had witli great Wisedom, Valour, fidelity and patience endeavoured in vaine to upphold the family which God had determined to cast downe; hee is reckned among the Notable examples of fortunes Mutability. Read More at large lib. 4 p. 250 [p. 210 in the editions of Ralegh's History of the I Fo rid noted above]. This hapned a little after the death of Alexander, Anno .3612, by some computations, of which there be divers. The buriall places Mr. Blunt saw; but of those buriall places or Mountaines off earth I can say No More then
:
155
A
five
little
Gran Signior
Warres on
Plaine
of
Camels, where
his
is
place
and order
for
provisions
when hee
side
his
Empire
through which
over this
North entry of Phylibee, is a vaste more then a quarter of a mile long Through the middest of this Citie, from North to South, runnes a ridge of rocky hilles, partly taken up with buildings; the rest with Sepultures, among which I found a little Greeke Chappell^ built in the old Gentilisme*, as a Greeke told me, and it appeares also
River at the
woodden
Bridge^,
by the round forme, with equall division of Altars there remaines nothing remarkable After five dayes stay, we went foure
;
:
many
pretty
came
all
Turky
This
is
Andrinople,
it
:
Turkish
Heidrianee,
of
was styled Orestae from its Founder; for as the Greekes there pretend, it was built by Untill the conquest of ConOrestes^ Sonne to Agamemnon
Hadrian,
who
repaired
originally
stantinople,
it
North-East,
remember, and I thinck it was hereabouts, that wee came to a spacious even plaine [see p. 61 f.] and that here were here and there divers little hills fashioned like heypokes, but very large and high, by computation 70 or 80 feete, and soe much diameter in the bottom, which appeared in the plaine as Hands in the Sea, and seemed not otherwise by their proportions but to bee made by Mens hands. In Sir W. Rawleigh, lib. 3, p. 63 [p. 52 of the editions noted above], you shall find the fight at Thermypolae or Thermapylae set downe punctually that the straights was betweene Thessaly and Greece, half acre of ground space." See also Relation II., p. 6r, note 6.
that I can well
1
i.e.
Philippopolis.
See Relation
note
9.
II., p. 54.
'
See Relation
See Relation
II., p. 54,
See Relation
II., p. 54.
* i.e. in
5
^ See Relation II., p. 49. II., pp. 5254. Orestes Mundy notes, " See in H. okes [Holyoke's] Dictionary the name Orestes, the story of him and Pylades, with other accidents, floreat Anno Mundi 2188, after the destruction of Troy twenty yeares, before Christ The Dictionary referred to is the " Dictionarium Etymologicum 1 160 yeares." Latinum.... Declaring the Originall and Derivation of all Words used in any Latine Authors.. ..Whereunto... are added many thousand other words. ..with their Greeke in more exactnesse than ever was in Calepine, Morelius, or any other. ...Hereunto is also annexed the Proper Names adorned with their Etymologies.... Lastly Rider's Dictionarie... augmented with many hundreds of words. ..newly corrected, and very much augmented by the great Industrie The full title occupies an entire and paines of Francis Holy-oke, 1633." page.
5"
On
156
APPENDIX
A.
EXTRACTS FROM
North and North- West lye certaine low and easie hilles, amongst which glides the little River Tuny\ from the North-side of the Citie to the West, where, meeting a branch of the Marissa, it
passes a mile or
branch,
it
Zerxes
first
Mustered
passed the
Helespont.
This City,
among
divers
other
Trimontium because it stands upon three little hilles^ or rather one low Hill, with three eminencies, the middest is the highest and largest, upon the toppe whereof, as the crowne and glory of the other buildings, stands a stately Mescheeto built by Sultan Solyman the Second, with foure high and curious Spyres, at each corner one, as the manner of Turky is^;...A little without the Citie North-ward stands the Gran Signior his Serraglio, with
a Parke walled,
some
and
of
them
and Bridges... we came to Selibree, of old Selymbria^, no great Towne, but bigger then the rest and very ancient the old Castle and walles not quite demolished It stands upon the south end of a long but low hill the other three points are encompassed
;
; ;
may
upon
Heraclea..,.Next
had kissed the hands of the right Honourable, Sir Peter Weych, Lord Embassadour for his Majesty of England'', I tooke
for Egypt.... Some thirtie miles
i.e.
the Tondja.
Mundy
mentions the
river.
See Relation
II., p. 49.
Here follows a
it,
fountain near
^
detailed description by Blount of this " Meskeeto," the the " Besisteins or Exchanges," bridges, walls, etc.
See Relation
^
^
II., p. 48.
See Relation
II., p. 47.
its
position, chief
Here Mundy remarks, " Sir Peter Wyche, Embassador at Constantinople, brother unto my late master Mr. Richard Wyche, with whome I might have gon thither againe, but took another course. I knew nine brethren in forraigne and farre distant Regions." This last remark seems to refer to the Wyche family. See Appendix B. for Mundy's connection with three of the brothers
Wyche.
57
Hero and These Castles called the Dardanelli, command the passage, and are the securitie of Constantinople on that side That upon Europe, anciently Sestos, is made with two Towers, one within the other the inmost highest, by reason of the rising ground upon which they stand, each bearing the forme of three Semi circles with the outwall Triangular The other upon the Asian Shoare, is farre stronger, standing on a Marish levell it is of forme square with foure round Turrets, at each corner one in the middle before stands an high square Tower commanding over all This formerly was named Abydos, not that the buildings remaine the same, but often reedified in the same place^...wee reached Cape Janizar, anciently Promontorium Sigaeum, where Troy^ stood, of which nothing remaines to bee scene, but a peece ^ of an old wall
glorious in the loves of
much more
Leander;
See Relation
I.,
p. 20.
this passage is as follows :" The two Castles below Constantinople called the Dardanelli, betweene which wee sailed before wee came to the Citey, not mentioned in this booke \i.e. Mundy's MS.], anciently Sestos and Abidos, Sestos on Europe side and Abidos on the Asian shore, Mr. H. B. p. 27. Here it is said that Xerxes made a bridge of boates over the Hellespont to passe into Europe."
2
Mundy's note on
^ See p. 20. Mr Edwin Pears has kindly furnished me with the following The sites on the West of the bay, note on the Troy of the early travellers now called Koum Kale, and South of the river Simois where there exist several mounds known as the tombs of Achilles, of Patrocles, etc. were probably regarded as those of Troy. Hissarlik, first recognized as Troy by Mr Calvert and since explored by Schlieman and Dorpfeldt is on the opposite, that is on The first were long regarded as the site the North side of the river Simois. of the renowned city. Critobulus (Book ii.) mentions a visit to them, in 1483, by Mahomet H., who regretted that he had no poet like Homer to celebrate
:
his victories.
^ Mundy further comments on Blount's description of Samos (p. 29), four-legged serpents (p. 45), the " tombes within the great Piramides" (pp. 45 48) and "Gran Cayro" (p. 38). He concludes these additions with the following note, "Though some of these concern not this booke, yet I have made this small digression for the strangeness of the matters mentioned and not to be doubted of, that you might not wonder too much at smaller matters However, as these remarks throw no light on this volume in my owne." of the author's European Travels, they have been omitted.
APPENDIX
THE WYCHE
This family, with
Cheshire.
B.
FAMILYi.
was intimately connected
for
whom Mundy
and
Mercia.
He
says
that
"the
salt-pits
of
Worcestershire and
Cheshire were by the old English called Wiches," and that "in
both
counties
of Wyche."
The
salt-pits
and
good
training
if
and
not
Wyche
family
had found
where they quickly identified themselves and trade of the city. In 146 1, Sir Hugh Wyche, mercer, son of Richard Wyche, was Lord Mayor of London. He died in 1466 and was buried in St Margaret's Church, Lothbury. His will^, which is very long, is almost entirely made up of bequests to churches, nuns, monks, etc., and to many and
to the capital,
way
with the
life
Sir
Hugh was
whom Mundy served, and whose father was Richard Wyche, notable member of the trading companies of the time. This
Wyche
knight.
of
born in
Sir
1554.
He
married, in
1581, Elizabeth,
Lord Mayor of London, by whom he had eighteen children, twelve sons and six daughters. Richard Wyche, his brother Jacob and his nephew Thomas were all members of the Skinners' Company, Richard becoming a
Richard
Saltingstall,
^
2 ^ *
is variously spelt Wyche, Wych, Wich, Witch, etc. See pp. 10, 14, 23, 45, 136139, 143 and 156. See Jdd. A/S. 24 121, fol. 353. The will is to be found at Somerset House, catalogued as 23 Godyn.
The name
Richard
Wyche
of Davenhani, Cheshire'
Richard Wyche,
skinner, of
= Elizalieth
Sahingstall,
Thomas Wyche
d. ?
I
of Alderley,
a dau.
Giles
Jacob Wyche,
skinner, of
Jane
1615
London,
London,
d. 1612
1554 1621
r
ichard
Thomas Wyche,
cit.
William
Vyche
and skinner
Wyche
Hugh Wyche
James
Wyche
of London, d. 1618
Samuel
d.
Sir Pet.
d.
= Jane
Meredith
before
1643
Elizabeth d. 1673
Job
liar-
James
d.
Mary
d.
Anne
=Robt.
FT Edward
I
.
T
Julius
d.
1
d.
T
Abigail
d.
1
Nathaniel d. 1659
William
before
Henry
Rebecca
d.
=
Dorothy
I
Richard
d. 1641
T
Tliomas
by
1618
1
1628
1631
before
1620
1620
r
Abigad
1
Jane
Sir
Elizabeth
Erasmus = Frances
Anne
Jane
Harby
Sir Peter
b.
d.
=
J,
I
Isabella BoUes,
Jane
=
I
i.
Fuscarino
William
1666
2.
f
1 I
John
Bethesda Savage
Peter
d. at
George
d. at
Cambray, unm.
I .
Pondicherry
I
Cyril
Cc therine
Mary
Sophia
Sir Cyril,
Bart.,
d.
Anne, dau. of
Magnus
Wedderkoji
r756
T~
d.
Magnus
A.
unm. 1740
John young
Frederica
^ melia
1.
1 The pedigree is made up from the sources already from Burke's Extinct Baronetage.
noted
in the
foregoing account,
of the
Harkian
Society,
from Harl.
MS.
2040,
fol.
267 and
ne
CI
M
C!
be
of
fo
be
th wi
m H
bi of
va
cli
P(
R
be
Si
wl
59
Company from
He
was connected with the East India an "Adventurer" for ;^2oo also held a prominent post in the Levant or Turkey
1614'.
its earliest
He
days, being
employment
in the
whom Thomas was "admitted to fellowship of the Levant Company" by patrimony in 161 5. In January, i6i6, Richard Wyche is mentioned in the Court Book of the Company as
desiring a
"share in
for
stint
of currans^"
In December, 1619,
for
he
petitioned
an allowance as
"treasurer
the
pirate
business,"
and
in February,
He
was,
besides,
member
of the
Muscovy Company, which he assisted both with his money and his family. In 1619, Sir John Menick testified to the "fair carriage of Mr. Wiech's son in Muscovy^." Richard Wyche had
eight
sons
then
refers.
living,
and
to
doubtedly
in 162
and was buried in the Church of St Dunstan's in the East. memory was erected "A faire Monument in the North He of the Chancell with the inscription Heere lieth the body of Richard Wyche, Merchant and Citizen of London, free of the Company of Skinners, amongst whom having borne all Offices, his life and carriage was exemplary. Hee married Elizabeth, the Daughter of Sir William Saltingstall, Knight, sometimes Alderman and Maior of this Honourable City of London, by whom he had issue, 12 Sonnes and 6 Daughters, I'iz. Richard, Thomas, Susan, Daniel, George, Samuel, Peter, Elizabeth^ James, Mary, Anne, Edward, Julius, William, Henry, Abigaile, Nathaniell, Rebecca.
1
To
his
Sonnes, 4 deceased, 8
Hee
Daughters, 2 deceased, 4 living. living. yeelded his soule in peace to his Maker the 20. of November,
latter yeeres
were bestowed
his estate here
in
on
earth,
and
in
Heaven,
where
it
now remaines
See Wadmore, Some Account of the Skinners' Company, p. 192. By his Thomas Wyche bequeathed to the Skinners' Company the sum of twenty pounds for the purchase of two cups for their Hall.
1
will, in 1618,
^ ^ *
Court Minutes of the East India Company. Stow, Survey of London, ed. 1633, p. 833.
l6o
APPENDIX
will
B.
The
and inventory
of Richard
Wyche^
are
still
extant.
By
1622, he bequeathed one-third of his property to his wife Elizabeth, one-third to his children Susanna, Anne, Rebecca,
Henry
eldest son Richard, son-in-law Job Harby, cousin Clement Harby and nephew William Wyche, with additions to his wife and three daughters. He stated that his sons Richard, Thomas, George, Peter, Edward and Julius and his daughter Elizabeth, though left out of his wilP, were "all as dear and loving" as the rest of his offspring, but that they had already been helped to the utmost of his power.
Of
and
the eighteen
children of Richard
Wyche, the
is
six
who
Of
these,
James, the
Company to Constantinople on the Royall Merchant. He was accompanied by Peter Mundy who had newly entered his service.
In the following year,
at Constantinople^.
16 18,
He
appears to have
Mundy
The James Wyche who was a Director of the East India Company from 1650 to 1655' may possibly have been a son of Mundy 's
no proof of the relationship. document entitled "Inventory of the Estate of Richard Wyche after his decease*" give some idea of
employer, but there
is
The
entries
in
the
The
MS.
"The Inventory... of
member
of the family.
goods which late belonged unto Richard Wyche late and Skynner of London deceased and whilst he lived of the parish of St. Dunstans in the East London seene and valued the 4th day of December Anno Domini i62i....Doubtfull Debts oweing to the Testator at his decease Item oweing by a Voyage to Aleppo 748: 17: 08: by a Voyage to Constantinople 406: 10: 00:
all... the
Citizen
The
will
is
at
at
the Bodleian
Library.
^ ^ * ^
executor.
See pp. lo, 14, 23 and 136. Court Mitnites of the East India Company. Rawl. MS. A. 414, at the Bodleian Library.
l6l
:
and Smyrna 357 05 oo: by a Voyage first Joynt Stock 566: 13: 04: Item underwritten in the second Joynt Stock 2400: whereof 600 was for his Sonne Thomas Wyche and 200 for his Sonne George Whereof payd in for his soe rest for his own accompt 1600 owne accompt 1150 in his lifetyme and what the proceede thereof
Xio
[Scio]
:
will
be
is
uncertaine
Item by the third Joynt Stock of Currants by the fourth Joynt Stock of Currants 338: 10: 00
:
by a Voyage
900: 00: 00...."
into
Russia
1623,
for
Principall
part
in
thereof
Job Harby and Richard Wyche, executors to the will of Richard Wyche, senior, petitioned the Council that they might not be personally liable for a tax rated on the testator as a member of the Muscovy Company, " having
In
already distributed his property according to the will'."
Elizabeth
Wyche
She died
By
her
will,
bequeathed
for her
^100
She
also
orphan grandchildren:
"
Pounds
to
Richard Wyche
said
the eldest son of son Richard the yearely use thereof I would have
my
and the
fiftie
pounds
forth to
is
bee an aprentice
And
if
my
will
fiftie
Thomas Wyche
pounds, and
if
and
Wyche and
if
to
Jeane Wyche."
Of
Richard,
the eldest of the eighteen children, was a member of the Levant Company. He lived in " Minceinge lane" and Mundy "lay att
his
howse" on his return from Constantinople in September, I62o^ In 1625, he and others entered into a contract with the
of Spain's Commissioners," as
"King
Mundy
relates, for
copper
to be delivered in Spain.
^ ^
See Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, 1623, p. 140. One of the sons, Edward, died between the making of the will and See
p.
136.
l62
APPENDIX
agreed,
B.
in
1622, to
serve
Richard
Wyche
there."
for
"five
Valladolid " to
On his
if
on certaine Conditions," was sent to followe a suite then dependinge in the Chauncery arrival, Mundy found George Wyche, his " master's
years
Mundy
any
does
not state
his
but,
in
case,
he
still
in
troubles" in
1628.
On
the
Mundy's return
Wyche "very
after,
dangerously sick of
Dropsie,"
and
shortly
in
autumn
of 1625, his
"Master
In
1
left this
life'."
The
five children
of Richard
Wyche
will.
mentioned
in
their
grandmother's
will
education and apprenticeship had been provided for by his grandmother, eventually entered the service of the East India
Company
and
Bantam
in
Thomas Wyche, second son of Richard Wyche, senior, is Thomas mentioned in the will of his uncle Jacob Wyche*, who died in 161 2, but as there was at this time another Thomas Wyche, son of Thomas Wyche of Alderley and also nephew to Jacob, it is doubtful which of the two is meant. Of
perhaps the
is
little
to relate.
member
and
of the Levant
is
Company
in
161 5.
father
mentioned
whom Mundy
his death.
mentions as being
forth-
but no record
coming of
is
his life
abroad or of
in their wills.
married in 1625.
George, third son of Richard Wyche, senior, was mixed up
in his brother Richard's
By
1628, proved
if
1631, George
Wyche was
to
have
a legacy of ^^300
" he returne
See
p. 143.
See
p. 156,
note
7.
See
p. 139.
63
either
maintenance
in his disposinge."
There
is
is
member
by
large
I.
family.
In
1625,
were
issued
Wich Esquire emploied by us as our Agent The resident with our deere Brother the King of Spain." envoy was to deliver a Letter of Credit to the King of Spain on the death of the late King of England, James I. He was also instructed to "promote peace and commerce" during his
Charles
residence in Spain \
to " Peter
On
his return
from
Peter
Sir
knighted.
as
The
Ambassador
post he held
He
sons,
who
and who
Mundy had
In his
will Sir
to Constantinople in 1627,
as "Sir Peter Witch Knight and Controwler of his Majesties howshowld^" His great-grandson, Sir Cyril Wyche, was created a Baronet ^
Elizabeth Wyche, eighth child and second daughter of Richard Wyche, senior, married Job Harby, a London merchant. The Harbys and the Wyches were connected by blood as well as by marriage. Clement Harby was cousin to Elizabeth's father and was appointed by him as one of the "overseers" to his will, to which Job Harby, son-in-law, was one of the executors. Mrs Job Harby made a good match from a worldly point of view and eventually became Lady Harby. She outlived her husband. Sir By her will^ "the Job, and died on the 7th November, 1673. Lady Harby" desired to be buried at " St. Dunstans in the East in
See State Papers, Foreign ArcJiives, Spain, See p. 156, note 7. The will is at Somerset House.
vol. 33.
^
^
164
the Vallt of
as the
APPENDIX
B.
my fathers owne purchasing." She described herself "Widdow of Sir Job Harby Knight Barronett deceased,
In
making her will. No other Wyche, the son of her brother the ambassador. are mentioned except "sister Wyche" members of her family who had forty shillings and Henry Wyche (probably her brother) who witnessed the will. Erasmus Harby, Elizabeth's son, succeeded to the title. Of Anne, the eleventh child and fourth daughter of Richard
more than four years after She bequeathed ;^io to her nephew Sir Peter
Wyche,
senior, there is
no record except
Mr
Charleton.
forraigne
in
Edward, the twelfth child and eighth son also served "in and farre distant Regions." He was at Constantinople
1620 and
is
mentioned by
Sir
Mundy
as
Paul Pindar as
"Ponto
must have been in England in 1625, when he was admitted to the freedom of the East India and Levant
Companies^,
but
He
he
appears
to
have
returned to
the
East
when
his brother
ambassador.
In 1628,
Edward went
to Scio to
meet Lady Wyche, who had come out On the way back to Constantinople, he
son and thirteenth child of Richard Wyche, no record but his will. On his death, in 1631, he bequeathed money to his brothers George, Henry and Edward^ to his sister Rebecca, to his brother-in-law Job Harby and to the children and widow of his eldest brother Richard. and had two Henry, the eleventh son, married Dorothy children, Jane and William. Nathaniel, the seventeenth child and youngest son of Richard Wyche, was closely connected with the East India Company.
Of
Julius, ninth
is
senior, there
1
"^
See
p. 45
f.
at
Early Voyages in the Levant (Covel's Diary), p. 277. Edward, however, pre-deceased Julius. For the will of Julius Wyche,, Somerset House, see 124 St John.
^
165
for several years,
His tenure
Rebecca, the eighteenth child and sixth daughter, was unmarried at the time of her mother's death.
Mundy's remark as to the travels of the Wyche family "in and farre distant Regions" is correct in so far as six of them are concerned. One (probably Thomas) was in Muscovy about 1620; George was in Spain in 1625; Peter and Edward
forraigne
in 1627 ; James died there in i6i8j and Nathaniel was in Surat in 1659. Of the journeyings of Richard, Julius and Henry, unfortunately no record is
forthcoming.
Of
the later
members
of the
Wyche
family, Bernard,
grandson
of the ambassador to
Company's
service
His brothers
Peter and George were also merchants at Cambrai and Pondicherry respectively.
in
Sir Cyril
Wyche, Baronet,
1.
APPENDIX
DOWNING!.
C.
Company
for
members,
Mr
Morris Abbott^,
The
Record
1
Office),
August
616.
Book of the Levant Company^ (now and are here reproduced. "Whereas by former Act of Court it is
large expressed,
shipp called
Company, as in the said Act is more at Forasmuch as Mr. Morris Abbott offered his the Royall Merchant, which was now bound out for
if
the
Company
severall
and there
From Zant
if
to
and
neede require
To
From From
From Cio
to
fifty
dayes to take
To
uppon 1000
1
D""*.
To
See
p.
14.
i
" 3 ^
See note
on
is
p. 15.
State Papers, Foreign Archives, vol. 147, pp. 168, 174 and 179.
The
sign
indistinct.
It
is
apparently
D''
for
Dollars.
APPENDIX
for a
C.
167
for so
per
D"". To paie fraight out and home, much as shalbe landed and laden at Scanderone, 11 los. The Shipp to carry fifty three men a maister and a boy. ton.
li.
They that have no fraight per charter partie are to paie fraight homeward from Constantinople, Cio or Scanderone 6li. los. per Ton. The same price shalbe paid by them that have taken tonnage and laid more then their Tonnedge taken from any of the said Fortes, vizt. 61i. los. per ton. The shipp to carry
such bales as shalbe laden from Constantinople by the laders
to
Scanderone
gratis.
The owners
to Contract that
no wollen
According
to be
till
Company
And
therefore every
"A
Marchant Royall was read at this Court and Assented unto, And Mr. Morris Abbott it is ordered that a bond be sealed from
and the Master of that Shipp, Josuah Downing, to Sir Thomas Low^ to the use of the Company, penalty ;^5oo, that no Cloth or Kersyes exceeding the number of Ten peeces be carried in
that
shipp for
Constantinople,
either
directlie
or
indirectlie,
promise
" Ordered
made
...
to
the
Company
the
in
18
December 1616.
that
whereas
Shipp
hence advertisment
is
come by
some
troubles,
fitt
thought
no
i.e.
Francis
p. 45.
l68
APPENDIX
C.
spend
at
and Constantinople, and in going and coming betwixt those places, to lade and unlade there such goods and monyes as shee And further that at is bound to do by the said Charter partie.
Scio every Particular lader shall take care for the disposing of
monyes at his owne charge. To which purpose and ordered that letters be written by the husband, to be sent away by the next Post, intimating so much to the Ambassador and nation there, if they find it convenient
the goods and
is
it
thought
fitt
2^
June 1617.
is
"And
men
of warre,
and
that the
Merchant
Royall
ordered, by the
if
shee
for the
two
Zant
Company
England
owners of the said shipp over and above the fraight agreed
los.
all
the
and ensealing
thereof."
Captain Joshua Downing. Captain Joshua Downing, the Master of the Royall Mejxhant,
appears to have
made
Company.
There
is
is
no record of him
either before that date, or for four years subsequent to his return.
until his
death in 1630, he
frequently mentioned
and twice
in
blank in the
MS.
here.
Scanderoon
is
probably meant.
169
command
works
trades
at
and made an Inventory of "the the officers and shipkeepers belonging to the twenty-nine vessels of the Navy riding at Chatham." He also reported on " the losses of the English and In 1626, he Hollanders" in the storm on the 13th October,
of the "pinnace Lion's wJulp,'' of
all
made out the lists of men mustered aboard the Adventure, Dreadnought and Rainbow, and certified the defective condition of the Great Sapphire at Portsmouth. He also recommended
three
boatsv/ains
for
promotion,
remarking
that
he did not
whom
and thankfull to him as any other." In July, 1626, Downing was acting as a Commissioner of the Fleet at Portsmouth. About this time, he had drawn up some " Notes on the
Navy," arranged under three heads.
that he was unpopular.
for inquiring into the state of the
In 1627, there
is
evidence
Navy reported their inability Chatham owing to interruptions from Joshua Downing, and, a month later, Thomas Rabenett complained of Captain Downing's 'malice." Downing
to complete the survey of cordage at
seems
for
to
intendence," that
at Chatham under very insufficient superWilson, the master attendant, was a " willing but aged and crazy man," that he, Downing, would use his " best
Mr
and works go on slowly for At the same time he wrote to the Treasurer of the Navy to know "whether the officers will come down and take a survey of the stores and provisions," so that he might "have his discharge." However, two months later, in April, 1628, he was still at Chatham, whence he wrote to recommend Christopher Laughlyne for a purser's place. In the same letter, he remarked of the porter of the yard at Chatham that he did not "conceive him to be fitting" for his post. Whether Downing ever got his "discharge" is not clear. In January, 1629, he once more wrote from Chatham recommending
stores are very barren of provisions,
170
APPENDIX
C.
a purser. of the
On
dated
ist
January
same
year,
was proved.
He
left his
and a daughter, Martha, was also a legatee. In the is made of "the great charge" Downing had sustained on behalf of his nephews Henry and Jasper, sons of his " sister Scroles." The last reference to Downing is in 1630, when "Captain Phineas Pett requested to have the lodgings at Chatham formerly enjoyed by Captain Downing."
his executor,
will,
complaint
To
APPENDIX
THE LEVANT COMPANY AND
The Levant
1
D.
Mediterranean
from
141 3
onwards.
The
great
obstacles
at that
to
private enterprise
time
Turkish
effort in
empowered three English merchants, William Harebone, Edward Ellis and Richard Staple, to use their endeavours to obtain from Sultan Murad III. social and
1579,
history of the
Company
is
briefly as follows.
In
Elizabeth
commercial privileges
successful,
and
in
1581,
as
stated
above, letters
granted to
"The Company
five
members.
The
first
resident
am-
1597.
the
Company was
the
title
reconstituted
period
of
twelve
years,
with
of
"Governor and Company of Merchants of the Levant." His successor was Henry Lello (1597 1607) in whose time the charter was renewed in perpetuity by James I., the Company being thenceforth known as "the Governor and Company of Merchants of England trading to the Levant Seas." The first ambassador at Constantinople under the new and extended
161
1),
1/2
APPENDIX
D.
ITS
The management
in that
it
Company was
vested in a
differed
was not a Joint Stock Company. Every man under and over that age paying ;^5o, was admitted a member and could then trade on his own
account.
The
"
Governor
" at
the time of
Mundy's journey
to
Thomas Low,
Lowe" who
is
The Company
its
advance
in the first
hundred years and the system of trade then prevailing. His information is valuable as it was acquired on the spot. Chardin
writes^:
all
at
the Levant.
driv'n
at
London
which
therefore
cannot
fail
has
stood
almost these
first
Queen
Elizabeth's Raign.
Raign famous
for having,
among
Hamborough,
is
this Day. Trade was then in no greater Mark of the Ignorance of those Times, in reference to Countries, though but a little remote, for they then the Association which those Merchants made joyn'd several together in one Body, for mutual Conduct and That Company which relates to the Turkish Trade Assistance. For it is not a Society, where every one is of a particular sort puts in a Sum for one General and United Stock It is a Body which has nothing in Common, but a peculiar Grant and PriviIt assumes to it self the Name ledge to Trade into the Levant. None are admitted into it, but .Sons of The Regulated Company.
and Turkic,
its
all
which remain to
Infancy
and there
is
for
Seven Years.
They
give to be
and double
if
above
See
Sir
p. 45.
John Chardin,
6.
AGENTS AT CONSTANTINOPLE
that
IN
MUNDY S TIME
to
73
Age.
among themselves by
sufificient to
the Plurality of
drive a
Trade that
will
Hundred Thousand.
Com-
Ambassador whom the King sends to the Port, Elects two Consuls, the one for Smyrna, the other for Aleppo, and prevents the sending of Goods which are not thought proper for the Levant. It consists at present of about Three Hundred Merchants, besides that they bring up in Turkic a great number of young Persons well descended, who learn the Trade upon the Place it self. This Trade amounts to about Five or Six Hundred Thousands Pounds yearly, and consists in Cloaths made in England, and Silver which they carry as well out of England, as out of Spain, France and Italy In exchange of which they bring back Wool, Cotton-Yarn, Galls, Raw Silk and Wov'n, Now the together with some other Commodities of less value. Company, finding that Malice which Interest begets among Persons of the same Profession, would in time be the Ruine of their Society, by Enhancing or Loring the price of Goods on purpose to under-sell one another; and that the same Malice
:
(which
is
many
Ambassador causes
great Impositions
and
Fines,
I
and other
say,
fore-
The Company,
Remedy
ta
prevent 'em.
bound
to sell
Goods
which they give order to be bought and by that means it never happens that the Merchants receive any Damage in the Prospect, or Design of their Profit. For the prevention of these and other
disorders, the
dor,
Company
EngUsh Ambassaall
who
resides at the
Port
to
the
Consuls and
their
and
others.
Which
Officers
have
174
APPENDIX
to
D.
ITS
no Power
to
the Nation,
who
of
the
rest.
are Two Persons appointed to Act in the Name These Deputies examine and debate with the
is
fit
to
be given,
is
What
there
Ambassador or Consul may not Act of themselves, but they observe that method to acquit and justifie themselves; and sometimes upon Emergent and
Not but
that the
whole
Body
of
the
to a Result,
is
the Deputies
necessary, whether
is
setl'd
Money
all manner of Charges and Expences, and pays exactly Wages of every Officer. Thus the Ambassador and Consuls have no more to do but only to mind the Security of the English Nation, and the good of Trade, without being incumber'd and
diverted
by
their
own
Interests.
Levant
it
Profit
Hobhouse\ who
Constantinople
says
:
in
tell.
He
of the Levant
Company
at Pera,
have
much diminished
five or six
in numbers... they
do not possess
more than
number
of
not in
the whole
amount
to
one hundred."
Mundy
sailed in the
still
to Scan-
three years
he remained in Constantinople ^ he must have heard some of the many and bitter complaints that the English merchants had at that time to make of their treatment at the hands of
Turkish
1
officials.
Hobhouse,
A Journey
II. p.
828.
168.
See pp. 21
23.
AGENTS AT CONSTANTINOPLE
IN
MUNDYS TIME
161
75
Constantinople,
1619.
When Mundy
16 1 7, he found Paul Pindar acting as ambassador to the Porte in the interests of the Levant
Sir
Thomas Glover
in 161
1,
Company. Pindar had succeeded and his letter, notifying his arrival at
in that year.
London on
the 20th
December
for
In this
for,
letter
Pindar
an increase of pay,
on the 13th
January, 161 3, the following passage occurs in the Proceedings of the Court, " Mr. Pindar Embassadours desire of allowance for
may be
Sufficient to maintain
In 1615, Pindar wrote to the Court making various requests, and among other favours he desired the payment of certain money due to him in June of the previous year. The minute on "A Generall Court... 21st June 1615... this letter was as follows: A letter from Mr. Paul Pindar Ambassadour at Constantinople dated the 22th of Aprill was now read and considered of desireing
example of
his Predecessor,
may be
Mr, Foord
lately returned
thence
Whereuppon
all
it
answere to his
letters
returned with
convenient expedition.
And
desirous to
employ them
thought
intreat
for his
advantage at Constantinople
This Court
fitt in respect they were out of Cash for [the] present to Mr. Raph Pindar^ brother to the Ambassadour who was
till
See
p.
134.
therefore
nephew
and not
father of Paul Pindar, junior, who was his cousin, as stated by Mundy
on
p. 41.
176
APPENDIX
D.
ITS
same condition
as formerly
hope of
at the
satisfaction at the
time\"
him and
him
to
to trade
on
his
own
The
owing
a serious
wish
which occurred about that time, may have intensified Pindar's to be relieved of his onerous position. The Court of
Directors, however, realized that their interests were being well
after,
looked
and had no
we
"A
nth
letter
this Court,
where he
signified to the
Company
that
he would
body
&c., whereof
Ambassadour
requesting
him
whole Company^
thought
fitt,
Ambassadour, he
and the affaires of the Company settled to some good purpose, as best knowing out of his experience how to manage all thinges for the behoofe of this Society." That the question of the money was the chief cause of Pindar's resignation is clear from the minute on his answer to the
Court's request.
On
7,
"A
letter
from the
Ambassadour
at
Companyes request
letter
till
the
that [a]
be written
him,
that
towardes the
maintenance of his
177
Company do
appoint him
[?]
4000 Chequins
'
for the
[?]
1000' Chequins
per
And
not
Monneth
after
it
is
due the
whom
him
after the
Mundy, who reached Constantinople early in 1617^, says that "Heere the English Merchants passe verie Commodiouseley*." The Ambassador, however, thought differently. Indeed, Sultan Ahmad's treatment of the members of the Company seems to
have goaded their representative to desperation,
held
for at a
Court
on the 24th September, 1617, was read "A letter from Mr. Paul Pindar Ambassadour in Constantinople dated the 3d of July last, and brought by Mr. Kentish... wherein he amplie related ...the little esteeme there had of his Majesties letter sent by Mr. Kentish and of himselfe, and the whole Nation there, terming them pirates deserving to be punished, for redresse whereof his
opinion
is
that
the
Company do Procure
to
the Ambassadours
revocation,
and
not
send
any
Ambassadour,
Agent
or
shipping \"
Later on,
when
on the 4th February, 16 18, it was decided to abolish the office of Ambassador at Constantinople. "At this Court which was
especially assembled for the yearely election of officers, according
to the
Company
for
Ambassadour at Constantinople, and to leave in his place, some such Persons of sufficiency and discretion as this Society or the said Committes should choose and nominate unto him to remaine Agent there, untill his Majestic should otherwise dispose of that employment which said letters were now read and
^ 2
The
^ ^
See
p. 22.
178
APPENDIX
of,
D,
ITS
approved
thought
reasons, the
fitt
name
be concealed
for
Company
and
opportunity.
till an other and others from this Court are to be signed and sent away by the next post and the whole carriage of this buisines was well approved of." The death of Ahmad, in November, 161 7, however, changed the complexion of affairs for the English, and three months later, on the deposition of Mustafa, his successor, and the accession of Osman^,
therefore
to
be
published
said letters
brighter days dawned for the members of the Levant Company and the question of abolishing the office of Ambassador at Con-
Pindar remained on in office, but in May, 161 9, when the Company's resources were again at a low ebb, the Court decided
" that letters
may be procured from the king for revocation now Ambassadour at Constantinople
Companie
unto,
of
in
his
and
owne
his
losses of health
private Estate^."
and other impediments and prejudice in This time Pindar's recall was confirmed.
He
and
remained
started
on
He
travelled overland
homeward journey on the 6th May, 1620*. and arrived in London on the i6th Septemthe 12 th April, 1621, his accounts
ber l
On
of the Levant
Company and on
Company
practically
The
Dictionary of National Biography^ but two statements in that work regarding Pindar, during the years 1611 1620, require correction.
Firstly,
he
is
and
eight
is
until 1620, as
Mundy
relates, is
7 a.
See See
p. 21. p. 41.
^ 5
Seep. 135
f.
AGENTS AT CONSTANTINOPLE
Company quoted
above.
is
IN
MUNDY'S TIME
79
said to have been knighted during a and August, 1620. But it is evident from Mundy's journal, that he did not reach Dover until the 13th September of 1620^ Therefore, the date of his knighthood as given in the Dictionary is obviously wrong, though he
Sir
undoubtedly became
stantinople.
1619
1621.
writes^,
Of
aware,
Sir
he
"is, as far as I
am
unknown
John
made
himself unpleasantly
Company.
He
was
In 16 19 he was recommended by the Marquis of Buckingham to supersede Pindar as ambassador at Constantinople, and the matter was taken into consideration at a
the county of Wilts^
"Generall Court" held on the 7th May: "Whereas this Court was more especiallie assembled to read and consider of a letter
Companie bearing date the 13th of Aprill last and to frame an answere thereunto, beeing in recomendation of Sir John Eyres to be appointed Ambassadour to Constantinople if any were sent to
that place
also the
Kings pleasure
and desire
sufficient
The
buisines was
now
discussed of at large
said Sir John Eyres was said to be an able and Person to undertake such a service yett this Court
Company
to
be
Ambassadour did
resolve to
none
at all
Progresses ofJames
611.
made by
See
*
^
Chaplains of the Levant Company, p. 41. Wills at Somerset House, 138 Harvey.
l80
APPENDIX
now
D.
ITS
their affaires
at
an Agent
Constantinople
such time as
it
grow out
of debt.
Whereuppon
should be
moove
to the
Company might be
Eyres, untill
which
The
Court's objections
an Ambassador on the score of expense were of no avail and Buckingham insisted on the preferment of his nominee. It is probable that the royal favourite was under some obligation either to Sir John Eyre or to his family and desired to pay his debt at It is difficult to find any other the expense of the Company.
explanation for the pressure exerted to advance an individual
who
The
office of
ambassador
at
of difficulty,
It
needed a man
addition to
tact, in
and not
an
office,
to resort to
menace save
For such
unfitted,
and
his
Company
only
On
the
St July,
opposition to the re-appointment of an ambassador and accepted It was agreed, " for as the inevitable with apparent willingness.
much
as his Majestie
appeared by
letters
from
his
highnes dated 27 th of
first
John Eyres
some doubts
or aspersions,
who
He
had already
p. 171.
filled
years.
See
"
AGENTS AT CONSTANTINOPLE
gave such satisfaction to
all
IN
MUNDY'S TIME
l8l
points propounded as in
humble
he was with an unanime consent of the whole Companie chosen Ambassadour and was made free of the same'." At the same Court, a Committee was appointed "to meete and treate with Sir John Eyres about his Establishment, according to former presidents." On the 5th August, it was agreed that Sir John Eyre's household goods should be sent to Constantinople on the
Eagle^.
The ambassador's
immediately.
showed
in
itself
almost
His
letter to the
Company
September, 1620,
and led
to a
to the
Levant
Court from
residents,
Sir
John Eyre^.
He
inspire
money demanded by
he expected support
on them
by Buckingham.
At any
rate,
they
made
Mr John Chapman
Thomas Roe,
was sent
to Constantinople at
the end of 162 1, with orders to take charge of the embassy until the arrival of Sir
Eyre's successor.
On
extorting
his
John Eyre was charged with due from the English at Conthat "his extortions
stantinople,
and
ill
had agreed
to
made no
claim
on consulage
moneys.
He
urged
that,
moneys
to re-
imburse himself.
The Court
amount
1
that the
The
matter was
82
APPENDIX
to
D.
ETC.
referred
the
Privy
much
condition of dropping
future claims'.
The
to have
office of
been
Sir
John Eyre's
first
and
last
public appointment.
will
He
later, in
1639.
In his
he declared
"whole estate besides my howsehold stuffe is but twoe hundred and fiefty poundes in money which is in my Iron Chest at London." He left this small property to his nephew, Edward
that his
Eyre^.
Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, June, 1622. Wills at Somerset House, 138 Harvey.
APPENDIX
CONSTANTINOPLE
IN
E.
AND Sandys'.)
I.
Edward
is
This Citie^
Gulfe or
Arme
the Bosphorus and makes the Haven of Constantinople the the deepest and the most commodious in Europe.
Home, which
Towards the East it is watred by the extremetie of the channell or Bosphorus on the South by the waves of the Propontique The Sea, and upon the South it hath the firme Land of Thrace.
;
See
p. 25,
note
3, p. 27,
note
4,
and
p. 30,
note
2.
extracts that follow are taken from Edward Grimston's translation of Michel Baudier's History of the Iinperiall Estate of the Grand Seigneurs. Michel Baudier, who was born in Languedoc and died circ. 1645, was the author of several historical works, all written in a heavy verbose style. His Histoire ghierale dit serail et de la cour de Fempereiir des Ttircs was published in Paris in 1626. For the full title of the English version of the work, see note I on p. 25. There is a sub-title which runs. The History of the Serrail, and of the Court of the Gravid Seigneur, Etnperour of the Turks. Wherein Table of humane passions, is Seene the Image of the Othoman Greatnesse. and the Examples of the inconstant prosperities of the Cozcrt. Translated out Frefich by Edward Grinieston Serjeant at Armes. The book contains 191 of quarto pages. Bound up with it is, The History of the Court of the King of China Written in French by the Seigneur Michael Baudier of Languedoc. Translated by E. G. 1635. The two books are dedicated by Grimston to his "Worthy kinsman, Sir Harbottel Grimeston Knight and Baronet." Of Sir Harbottle Grimston, the translators nephew, there is an account in the Diet, of Nat. Biog.
^
The
pp.
abstract of
Grimston's
remarks on Constantinople,
see
84
is
APPENDIX
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
is
form
Serrail,
its
which lookes to the Sea towards the seven Towers \ and vast circuit contains about five leagues The wals are of an
:
Land\
and
it.
The
first
serves as a Theatre
it
where
is
commodiously
The last lookes upon the extremity of the Towne opposite to this, and upon the way
But betwixt the third and
it
an Aqueduct of rare
structure,
and
forty
number of Bathes
which serve
for delights^,
superstition.
Upon
midst of
the last of the seven Hils are yet to be scene the ancient buildings of a Fort strengthened with seven
Towres
in the
is
the situation
it
Giedicula^, that
to say, the
Fort of the seven Towres, in the which the wonders of Art was
so great in old time, as what was spoken in the one was heard in
all
the
rest,
not
all at
one
and
in order.
fifty
commanded by
may
it
Grand
Vizir,
except
be on two dayes
when they
The
first
Towres
full
of Ingots,
and
cxjyned gold
and
in
two of them contained the silver that was coyned another had divers armes and ornaments for Ingots
;
:
Souldiers,
and and other precious remaynders of Antiquity the sixt contained the Engines for Warre and the seventh, the Rols and Records of the Empire accompanied with a goodly gallery, in the which
precious stones
the
fift
: :
See
p. 31.
See
p. 37.
Yedi Kule.
See note
on
p. 31.
Bairdm.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
were placed the rich spoyles which Selym the
Tauras,
first
185
brought from
treasures
Persia.
All
these
The
these
Churches
for their
divine Service
It is true that
most of them
on the other side of the Channell, where they have nine Churches for their Devocalled Pera,
is
now
which
tions
the credit to be
eight
The
They
and have
and
yet
walls
firme
it
and
entire.
are double
number
were
in a
as well
Church neere unto that Gate... there are nineteen gates upon the firme Land as towards the Sea, which serve for
this City.
an entrance into
the
Many
commodity of the Publike, some have preserved the ancient Pyramides, and the workes of Brasse erected by Christian Emperours, amongst others that which they call Petrome, where there are to be scene whole Obelisques and three great Serpents of Marble creeping upward wreathed one within the other^... The shops for merchants exceed the number of forty eight
;
thousand; they are divided according to the diversity of trades or Merchandizes into divers places; but every trade hath his quarter,
and
Only
Market
is
there
See See
p.
35.
ayia
^
cxocpia.
p. 31.
See
p. 33.
See
p. 37.
86
APPENDIX
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
little
are foure double Gates one before the other, like unto a
Towne, vaulted round about. This rich Market place hath foure and twenty Pillars which support the vault, under the which there
are
many
little
is
shops
like
every one
sixe foote
Merchandizes upon
them
a wall,
and supported by sixteene small Pillars... without it is the detestable Market where they sell men and women' The taxe of those which imbarque themselves to travaile, which is an Aspre for every head if they be Turkes, and two if they be Christians or Jewes, is of no small importance. The Tribute called in Turkic Charay", which is levied upon the Jewes in Constantinople, after the rate of a Sequin for everie male Childe is worth eleven Millions^ three hundred Sequins yearely, although
there be
Rabbin
to
command
their
Synagogues,
their
Dead.
The
Christians,
eight
Male a Sequin, which amounts to the summe of above thousand Sequins They doe also give five and
:
and
to preserve the
number of their Churches. The priviledge But them above three thousand Sequins
it
at this day,
and the
riches of
some Bashawes,
vast
or great
Men
and
lodge
Strangers
The
Arsenall
one of the
goodliest
and
it is
lodged.
See
p. 34.
i
^ * *
See note
See
on
p. 26. this
statement on p. 26.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
187
2.
Coitstantifiople^.
What
I
the government
affaires
:
of a
citie,
may
other Cities
all
and
lifteth
up
(as
must needes
pensill out
some length, and tell you truely wherein her worthinesse consisteth, and yet may deceive opinion without
the line of her praises at
true judgment.
Beautifull, hath a
first
handsome and
some
the
Fieume a little more and both towards the sea, which runneth one way betweene Asia and Europe into the Euxinum and another way to encounter a pretty fresh water River, beyond the North of Pera, and the third overlooketh the fields of Thracia, with a greater compasse and strength, because it is a double wall ^ and openeth three or foure gates, as Andrinople, Gratianople, the Tower gate, &c. into the countrey, which flourished when Pausanias was contented with the title of Duke and Captaine of the Spartanes, and built this wonderful towne by
Seraglio to Porta del
; ^ The extracts here given are taken from The Glory of England, or Ti'ue Description of many ejccelleiit prerogatives and remarkable blessings, whereby She Triumpheth over all the Nations of the World: With a justifiable comparison betweene the eminent Kingdomes of the Earth and Herself plainely e; manifesting the defects of them all in regard of her snfficiencie and fulnesse of
Buckingham.
1620.
[Thomas Gainsford], London, 1618. The book, a pages, in two parts, is dedicated to the Duke of revised edition appeared in 161 9 and was re-issued in
Thomas Gainsford, who died in ? 1624, served in Ireland against the He was the Spaniards and during the rebellion of Tyrone, 1601 1610. author of six printed works. An account of his life and writings is given in the Diet, of Nat. Biography. is no mention of In this account there Gainsford's travels on the Continent. He must, however, have been at Constantinople in 1607 for he says that he was an eye-witness of occurrences there which he describes in his Glory of Ejigland, p. 35. For Mundy's version of Gainsford's description of Constantinople, see pp. 27-30.
See
p. 31.
l88
the
APPENDIX
name
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
honour of
is
of Bizantium, in
who was
cities
it
of corruption
and danger.
For con-
streets, citizens,
it
Commonwealth,
or happinesse.
as
retaineth nothing
situation
is
The
and if it had a pride to mocke at the swelling of any tempest embolden the Marchant with the security of the Sacra Porta, being indeed the goodliest Harbour in the world, twenty fathom
deep, close to the shores of two cities ^
Thus
it
containeth ten
much
especially
The Seragho
is
Gran Signeur^,
yet
is
name
are
women
word
Sera, or locked
up
it
is
enclosing as
much ground
as St.
James parke.
Emperours
person.
The gardens
with
artillery,
them
iron,
kept by Capog'ies
many and
hals,
and
diet.
The
banquetting-houses,
wherein his concubines and boyes are aparted from the court
hurliburly, expose divers
severall
manner of
structures
is
palaces,
among whom
one called a Caska^ close to the sea-side, where hee of the deUcatest and richest
there
'^
^ See p. See p. See p. 32. 37 f. See note 2 on p. 43. Mr Edwin Pears suggests that it is worth that already, in Mundy's time, a number of this body (Janissaries) off as permanent guards to various embassies by whom they were *
35 f. observing
were told
paid.
p. 28.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
presence that ever
I
189
beheld
for
it
is
on a side
in the
the windows
all guilt
curiously
glazed
and
the whole frame so set with opals, rubies, emeralds, burnisht with
golde, painted with flowers,
porphery, marble,
jet,
jasper,
and graced with inlayed worke of and delicate stones, that I am per-
swaded there
is
Under
the
is
Hippopatami, which
within are
Affrica
know by
their
names,
figs,
:
almonds,
and such like but it should seeme they are here as it were enforced and kept in order with extraordinary diligence for the sunne kisseth them not with that fervency, as may make them
:
proper kindes.
The
City
is
Bashawes houses, mosques, conduits, tombs and monuments, open as it were a storehouse of magnificent workes yet when
:
I read, that
all
it
were robbed
the world,
dared to
and cannot mine inventory, I marvell who hath either purloine them, or presumed to ruinate and deface them.
this place accessary to the theft,
making
houses, before
some of which
the
and
who
are
commonly
i
all
See
p. 37.
See
p. 35
f,
See
p. 31.
See p. 35.
; :
190
APPENDIX
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
in coffins of Cypres,
tion by Mutes,
and so
Con-
balneas
;
'
aqua ductus
walls I
stantine's palace';
To
these you
may adde
vaults
and the
their
under ground
fenced with
iron
gates
to
secure
treasure,
office
to the Jewes,
it
who farme
the
both
who
and the extremity of fire and earthquakes*, whose violence the Citie is many tymes subject.
in their tumults,
The
next division
is
it,
divided
retaining
a particular
name and
it
was surprized
for
it
standeth likewise up a
hill,
and equals
both
beastlinesse,
live
heere
some
liberty
yet
is it
with a Turkish
woman
or Jew.
The
Pera^, which
know
in their
Mosques or
fill up a great quantity of ground with disordered, confused, noysome and fearefull graves. On the one side toward the north-east, you have an Arsenall for
gallies,
little
See
p. 37.
'
See p.
32.
* See p. See p. 34. 39. ^ See note 2 on Pera is the Greek word for trans, p. 22 and. p. 41. beyond, and was applied to all that part of Constantinople beyond the Golden Horn. In such part was included Galata, a walled city, which is sometimes spoken of as " Galata of Pera." I am indebted for this note to Mr Edwin
Pears.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
I9I
a pretty fresh water river, as if they lay in sequence, by whose banks are certaine houses erected of purpose, for the pleasure
and reposednes of
speciall
Bashawes.
On
inviteth you and munition, that for number, greatnesse, and use surmount any one city of Europe you have likewise another Seralio, and in these suburbs are resident the English, French and Venetian Ambassadours": as for the Persian, Emperours of Germany, and Polacks, they lived in the great city, and sometimes visited one another, as either necessitie of busi-
Tapanaw
The
towne
last
in
for
if
made
to
but
spectacle,
then
fall
sea, extending a thousand miles, on the farther shore of the continent now shouldred up close Moeotis Palus into which
:
if
a messenger
Thus I confesse, if on the towers of the Amorata, or battlements of the Sophia*, you beheld all at once, as it were one united body, it would equall, if not surpasse London, for spaciousnesse of grounds, some monuments, and divers palaces and houses but yet come in no way neere my satisfaction, as being defective in many things, which I supposed to excell in it, and deficient in all things wherein a happy countrey supplieth the
:
See p. 39. See p. 41. Mr Edwin Pears remarks that Mundy's statement as to the residence of Pindar at Pera is interesting, because the earlier ambassadors had
1
resided at Karabali.
*
See
p. 20.
exists.
Mr Edwin
It
is
Pears
tells
me
pillar
on one of the rocks known as the Symplegades. Portions of the Latin inscription can still be made out. * See p. 35.
still
192
APPENDIX
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
For heere
is
neither
good lodging,
governement,
:
is
made
glorious indeed
nor
is
and it may be, the plague having consumed 80000, and the army of 200000 deducted, diminished somewhat the glory, and left the rest of the people to enjoy more freedome. And thus much for
malmfi,
fama
Constantinople.
3.
The Emperor
standeth
331,
now
it
Finished
in the yeare
and consecrated
antiquities then
Rome
he bereft of
more
twentie
before in an hundred.
Among
Theban
^
See p. 22.
^
^
in 1577, was the seventh and youngest son of In 1610, George Sandys travelled to of York. On his return the Levant and spent a year in Turkey, Egypt and Palestine. to England he published an account of his travels under the title of A Relation of a yowney begun Aw. Do7n: 1610. Foure Bookes. Containing a description of the Turkish Empire, of Aegypt, of the Holy land, of the Remote parts of 16 15. This Italy, aiid Hands adjoyning. London. Printed for W: Barrett. edition has, as a frontispiece, a portrait of " George Sandes Poet and Traveller. From an original Picture at Ombersley" [in Worcestershire, where the family (Lord Sandys) is still established]. See note 6 on p. 26, where the title of Sandys' work is that of the 7th or 1673 edition and not that of the 1st or 1615 The book, dedicated to Prince Charles, is adorned edition as is there stated. with maps and illustrations. It was well received and ran to seven editions
between 161 5 and 1673. In 162 1, George Sandys went to America, where he continued his literary work and where he completed a translation in verse of Ovid's Metamorphoses. On his return, circ. 163 1, he became a gentleman of the privy chamber of Charles I. and was admitted to the intimate friendship of Lord Falkland. His later years were occupied with poetic paraphrases of the Scriptures. He See the account of his life in the Diet, of Nat. Biography. died in 1644. ^ See note 2 on p. 30. Mundy introduces his extracts from Sandys' work "More abstracted out of Mr. Sandis his acurate observation and thus: elegant discription of his travells, being about 1610, and where, among the rest, hee relates of Constantinople and the gran Signiors Seraglio from Page 29 to [77] thus:" Mundy's figures refer to the 1615 edition of Sandys'
book.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
I93
Dedalian workmanship
his
set
This
Citie,
Soveraigntie, was
Romane Emperours,
of the Greek, as
now
is
of the Turkish
then
It
stands on a cape
In forme triangular:
on the East side washed with the same, and on the North side with the Haven, adjoyning on the West to the Continent. Walled
with bricke and stone
',
intermixed orderly
Then
this there is
the
and
Cypresse
trees
so
intermixed
with the
to the
buildings, that
pleased beholders.
hils
Whose
many
and no more, they say it is seated), are most of them crowned with magnificent Mosques^, all of white marble, round in forme, and coupled above; being finished on the top with gilded spires that reflect the beames they receive with a marvellous splendor; some having two, some foure, some sixe adjoyninge tarrast aloft on turrets, exceeding high, and exceeding slender the out-side like the maine top of a ship, and that in severall places equally distant from whence the Talismanni with elated voices (for they use no bels) do congregate the people, pronouncing this Arabicke sentence la illah illella muhemet re sue
:
ALLAH viz. There is but one God, and Mahomet his prophet. No Mosque can have more then one of these turrets, if not built
:
See
See
I
p. 31. p. 32
and note 2 on that page. Mr Edwin Pears has since told me mistaken, and that the Golden Gate was not that by which the Turks small number entered by the Circus Gate entered Constantinople. (Kerkoporta) adjoining Tekfour Serai, North of the Adrianople Gate. The entrance of the great body of the Turks was by the Pempton or San Romano Military Gate in the Lycus Valley. The Golden Gate end of the wall was not even attacked in 1453. Mr Pears further supplies the information that, on the outbreak of the Russo-Turkish war in 1877, the Turks destroyed the Kerkoporta to render the prophecy that the Christians should recapture the ^ See p. 33. city by this gate incapable of fulfilment.
2
that
am
M.
13
194
APPENDIX
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
all
whole Universe.
long labour
it
were to describe
it
and adorned with Mosaike painting an antique kind of worke, composed of litle square peeces of marble; gilded and coloured... which set together, as if imbossed, present an unexpressable stateliness, and are of a marvellous durance
roofe compact,
The
Temple
hundred threescore feete and Antonius long, and in height one hundred and fourescore Menavinus, that in the dayes of Bajazet it contained at once Perhaps the ancient fabricke sixe and thirtie thousand Turkes.
:
whereof
this
little
more
a
Chancell.
Better to
moderne eye-witnesse, who reports that the doores thereof are in number equall to the dales of the yeare whereas if it hath five, The inferiour it hath more by one, then by me was discerned
;
[Mosques] are
traordinary
many pent-housd
Scutari,
there being in
(comprehending Pera,
number
But
this of
Sophia
is
the Sultan, being neare unto the fore-front of his Serraglio, which
angle,
where
rest of
comprehending
plaines,
goodly groves
gardens,
of
Cypresses
with of
delicate
artificiall
fruite-trees,
rare
On
fountaines,
varietie
a private
Serraglio
:
passage made
We
markets of
^
^,
See
See
p. 37.
gee
p. 34.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
those few remainders of
I95
many
antiquities,
made by
the
principally challenge
the Black Sea, not far from a village called Domuz-dere, of the
abundance of wilde hogs thereabouts, the place being wooddy and mountainous, where many springs are gathered together, and at sundry places do joyntly fall into great round cesternes, from thence conveyed to conjoyne with others (among which, as
supposed,
earth,
is
the
now along
vallies,
found
falleth
from
hill
to
and surmounting the same, it ample cesterne, supported with neare two hundred pillars of marble, and is from thence by conduits conducted unto their publike uses. This was repaired by Solyman the Great, great grandfather to this now reigning Achmet whose wishes and endeavours are said to have aimed at three things, which were, the reedifying of Ponte Piccolo and Ponte Grande (which crosse two armes of the sea)
miles, untill arriving at the Citie,
at length
'
and the restoring of the Aquseduct, these he accomplished but the third, which was the expugnation of Vienna, he could never accomplish. Not far from the Temple of Sancta Sophia, there
:
is
Smithfield,
and anciently
called the
Hippodrom,
they exhibited their horse-races, The swift hoofe beaies the dustie
like
of
Theban marble^
triangle,
little
Columne
top,
extended in a
both
p.
and looking
high
^
And
beyond
1
'^
these,
another
Obelisk,
termed by some
See
45
f.
See
p. 32.
set
See note 2 on p. 33, where the obelisk is erroneously said to have been up by Constantine. It was set up by Theodosius. The mistake was See note
on p. 33. Mr Edwin Pears has supplied the following i information about this column : No one now doubts that this monument came from Delphi. The names of the states that took part in the battle of Platsea (b.c. 479) which were cut upon the coils of the Serpents are not visible, but rubbings with heel-ball exist which bring them out clearly and The upper half of one of the heads (upon which one as stated by Herodotus. of the legs of the tripod stood) is now in the Stamboul Museum.
*
additional
132
196
APPENDIX
E.
CONSTANTINOPLE IN THE
now
in
with
plates
of
gilded
brasse,
whose
basis
(that
do
is,
yet
this
inscription.
...And
is
Auratbasar
historicall
the
market
of
weomen') there
within,
I
an
Columne
to
be
so
ascended
farre
surpassing
in
Antoninus which
have seene
Rome
the
workman having
one bignesse^
And right against the mansion of the German Emperours Ambassadour (who only is suffered to lodge within the Citie), stands the Columne of Constantine^ These are all the remaines that are left (or all that are by the
Christians to bee seene) besides the relikes of the Pallace of
Constantine*,
now made a
many
and with
satisfie
them
are their
memories perished.
But
is
to say
something of Constantinople
beholders,
in generall
thinke there
not in
much
and
Now
for the
may
more
little
easie receit
and discharge of
their burthen^
On
part
the other side of the haven (continually crossed by multiboates, called Permagees*',
Cittie
tudes of
and rowed
of
for the
most
Galata... surpassing
loftie buildings, built by the Genoasi At the West end therof, the Grand Signiors Gallies have a dry station, and at the East end right against the point of his
Constantinople in her
Mr Edwin
until
Bazar
Pears tells me that female slaves continued to be sold in Avret about 1830. See note i on p. 34.
^ See note 2 on p. Mr Edwin Pears remarks that Bondelmonti gives a 34. wonderful series of sketches, showing all that was sculptured on this Column
of Arcadius.
3 i.e. the Burnt Column. See p. 34 f. Mr Edwin Pears says that it was erected by Constantine the Great and that beneath it is a chamber containing the Palladium brought from Rome, and a portion of the Holy Cross.
See
See
p. 37. p. 38.
See
p. 37
f.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
Serraglio, called
I97
Tophana and Fundacle, lies a number of great Ordnance unplanted, most of them the spoile of Christian Cities and fortresses, as may appeare by their inscriptions and Impreses and many of them of an incredible greatnesses Now right against the mouth of the haven on the other side Before of the Bosphorus, stands Scutari, a towne in Bythinia it on a little rocke, a good way off from the shore, a Tower is erected, called the Maiden tower... having in it twenty peeces of Ordnance. And although the Sea be so deepe betweene it and
may
saile
through, yet
is it
thither
by
art,
naturall fountain.
The Black Sea is distant some fifteene miles from ConstantiThis sea is lesse salt so named of his blacke effects Where it then others, and much annoyed with ice in the winter
nople^,
runneth into the Bosphorus there are two rocks, that formerly
names Cyaneoe and Sympligades. ...Here upon the top some to be one of these and yet too farre removed from a fellow to be so, stands a pillar of white Upon the shore marble, called vulgarly the pillar of Pompey^ there is a high Lanterne, large enough at the top to containe
bare the
of a rocke, supposed by
sailer into
The Bosphorus
and
in
is
in length
One
of those streights
lies
where on Europe side there standeth a and now the Blacke Tower.
The
Hellespont... divideth
Europe from
Asia
level
:
stands in and Abydos^ opposite to each other Abydos is seated 'upon a low Sestos stands in Europe and Sestos on the side of a Mountain, yet descending to
Three Abydos
Asia*,
in
sundry
Leagues
See
p. 39.
^ ^
See
p.
20
f.
^
^
See p. 20.
198
the Sea
:
APPENDIX E
both bordering the same with their
four-square, the other triangular^
Sea^...is a
castles,
whereof the
Furlongs in
former
is
The Propontick
length,
hundred and
fifty
and about of
is
like latitude.
Constantinople
hundred thousand
persons, halfe of them Turkes, and the other halfe Jewes and
Christians,
and those
in the year 16 19
whom
i.e.,
the Sea of
Marmora.
APPENDIX
F.
EXTRACTSi FROM DES HAYES'^ VOIAGE DE LEVANT^ TO WHICH IS ADDED AN EXTRACT FROM BARGRAVE'S VOYAGES AND JOURNEYS {RA WL. MS. C. 799).
I.
le
Troiseme
Rue
St.
qui sont
n'y en a point
:
advantagee de
la
la
nature
Elle est
^ The extracts from the Voiage de Levant comprise the journey from Belgrade to Constantinople. Des Hayes, in 162 1, took the same route as Pindar and his train had followed in 1620, but in the opposite direction. See note 6 on p. 45. ^ Louis Des Hayes, Baron de Courmemin, son of a governor of Montargis, held successively the offices of page, councillor and major-domo to Louis XIH. In 1621, the king sent him on a mission to the Levant. Des Hayes was instructed to obtain the restoration to the Cordeliers of the holy places wrested from them by the Armenians. He was also to establish a Consul at Jerusalem and to make rich votive offerings in the name of the king at the Holy Sepulchre. The mission was successfully accomplished and the envoy returned In 1624, 1626 and 1629 Des Hayes was sent on missions to France in 1622. Later, he allied himself with to Denmark and Sweden, Persia, and Russia. the enemies of Caidinal Richelieu, was arrested in Germany, taken to Languedoc and beheaded at Beziers in 1632.
There were three editions of the Voiage de Levant issued respectively in In his preface, the author states that he wrote the 1629 and 1645. account of his travels at the king's command. Although the work was issued under the initials of Des Hayes, the fact that the ambassador is mentioned throughout the book in the third person has led to the belief that it was the work of some unknown secretary, who accompanied him in all his journeys. The second and third editions are practically identical and contain 495 quarto The supplemental pages, while the first edition has only 403 quarto pages. information, found in the later editions, was added after Des Hayes' second and
3
1624,
Mundy
arrived
May, 1620.
200
ou
la
APPENDIX
Save^
se
F.
EXTRACTS FROM
le
descharge dans
assiette
admirable.
de de grandes plaines, qui sont tellement nourriroient dix fois autant de peuple qu'il y en a
coste
la
Du
dans
la ville.
Le
reste
de
de jardinages,
degre et
long.
et
au quarante-cinquiesme degre de
soit qu'a
sont tres-agreables.
Cette
ville
n'est point
soit
De
tous les
que
a
la
les
Turcs y ont fait depuis qu'ils I'habitent ne respondent pas beaute de I'assiette: car ils ne sont bastis que d'ais^ et n'est
que
elles
ont
La
dans
le
chasteau, ou
il
n'est pas
II est le
long de
elles
la Save, entoure'
rempart;
ils
capables de juger de
des places.
soit
Or quoy que
sortes
la
ville
de Belgrade
abondante en toutes
de
seulement
trouve de
croyable.
il
s'y
en
pas
monstreueux, et a
bon
prix,
que cela
n'est
Sieur des
Les marchands Ragusois qui y sont, firent present au Hayes d'une carpe, qui avoit trois pieds entre ceil et bat,
II
y en a de quatre et
de cinq pieds,
et
six:
la sable.
See p. 73.
Mundy
See
says
p.
that
73.
the houses
4
at
boards."
^
See
p. 74.
See
20I
de Belgrade
Chrestiens par Sultan Soliman\ qui y laissa un Beglerbey: mais leurs conquestes s'estant estendues dans la Hongrie, ils ont
transfere la residence
estre plus
proche de
la frontiere,
Bude
il
tient a
son Lieutenant'.
Ceste ville, sans y comprendre le chasteau, est aujourd'huy pour la plus-part habitee de Chrestiens qui suivent la creance de I'Eglise Grecque, lesquels sont en plus grand nombre que les Turcs^ et neantmoins il y peut avoir huict cens ames Catholiques,
a qui
les
les
Religieux de sainct
. .
troisiesme
de
Juin".
En
Belgrade, on
agreables rives
les
heures
les
petite ville
nommee
par
Danube, qui en
ne
soit
cest
endroit a une
grande largeur,
encore
qu'il
il
pas tout
s'en
ensemble:
dessous.
y a un bras qui
est
separe jusques a la
Si
de Semendrie, qui
le
une journee au
aller
la
Danube, on pourroit
au milieu de son
lit,
on
laisse
ordinairement
la riviere
a Belgrade,
pour
aller
Or avant que
que
je die
de ce
fleuve,
il
faut
non Europe ^ mais aussi de I'Asie, et de I'Afrique. Son cours est de sept cens lieues Francoises. II revolt soixahte rivieres presques toutes navigables. Et apres avoir arrose la
que
c'est le plus
grand
et le plus considerable,
seulement de
1'
Suawbe,
et
la
la
Valaquie,
bouches dans
la
mer
See note 4 on
p.
149.
2 ^
See
p. 75.
Mundy and
p. 78.
See
^
Mundy
See
p. 71.
See note 6 on
202
APPENDIX
F.
EXTRACTS FROM
mer
'
pais appellent la
le
noire: et a cela de
va contre
cours du Soleil
Laissants doncques le
Danube
le
bois, et a quatre
heures de chemin
il
nous trouvasmes
bourg de Cola^, ou
lieu est
y a plus de
au milieu des
De Cola
y a six
Ce bourg
est habite
oii
les
Quiervansaras^
longs
Ce
excepte
est
les
sont
la
des
edifices
publics
plus
que
larges,
bas,
environ a
pays-cy ou
des halles,
qu'il[s]
Le milieu du bastiment
avec
regne a I'entour des
six.
chameaux:
de
lict,
et le reste qui
Ce
de
table, et
de cuisine
murailles il y a de petites chemine'es a huict pieds les unes des autres: de sorte que sans bouger de ce lieu, chacun peut
avoir
I'ceil
sur son bagage et sur ses chevaux, qui sont vis a vis des
cheminees.
quand
le
mauvais temps
car
il
les
empesche de
si
faisoit estonner,
y a une
grande
et des chameaux qui sont peslehommes que I'on n'y sgauroit durer. La pluspart
la
commodite
y peut tenir cent cinquante chevaux et vingt carosses. II y en a qui ont une petite chambre sur la porte, qui ne sert presque point; car d'ordinaire les Turcs ne veulent pas
du logement,
et
s'esloigner
de leur bagages.
l'on
il
dormir sur
le
ment
que dans
maisons
ils
ne sont
See note
on
p. 150. in a large
See
p. 71.
Mundy
also
"lodged
Cane"
at this place.
See
p. 71.
203
tapis sur la
un
croupe de leur cheval, qui leur sert de matelas, et mettent la celle sous leur teste: et au lieu de couverture, ils se servent d'un
qu'ils
s'ils
veulent manger,
ils
font
ris
du
un peu de
un grand
festin
ils ne mangent que aucune separation dans ces Quiervansaras de sorte qu'un chacun voit tout ce que fait son compagnon, si I'obscurite de la nuict ne le cached En fin je n'y trouve aucune commodite, si ce n'est qu'ayant dormi a
ayant
pas tous
les jours:
car d'ordinaire,
n'y a
II
couvert,
Ton
est
exempt de contester
le
lendemain avec
I'hoste.
Nous ne
chez
quelque
parce
beaucoup mieux,
de
fort
que parmi un
impossible de reposer
si
souvent quand nous y logions, que nous n'avions pas encore commence a dormir qu'il falloit partir, dautant que les Turcs
d'ordinaire a
deux ou trois heures apres minuit, afin d'arriver de bonne heure au giste. Le lendemain qui fut I'unziesme de Juin, nous allasmes coucher a Yagodna'*, ayant marche douze heures et demie dans Nous nous des bois semblables a ceux des jours precedens.
partent
arrestasmes au milieu
village
Yagodna
est
ou
il
y a plus de
la plus-part
des Spahis de
y demeurent.
Le jour
la
riviere
deux heures de Yagodna^ nous trouvasmes de Morava, qui venant des hautes montagnes de
suivant, a
^ 2
"Cane" on
p. 52
f.
Pindar and his train also camped in the open ground when possible.
* See p. 70. See pp. 54 and 60. is Mundy's " bigg river without a Bridge."
See
This
See
p. 70.
204
APPENDIX
F.
EXTRACTS FROM
Danube. Elle est environ de la grandeur de la Marne, mais beaucoup plus rapide: nous demeurasmes fort long-temps a faire
il
s'y
rencontra un
et
de sorte que cependant nous fusmes contraints de nous arrester a un village nomme Paraquin^, qui est proche de
riviere,
la
et et
qui
est
Entre
Paraquin
Razena^,
ment
effacees
chemin avec plusieurs inscriptions, mais telleque Ton n'en peut rien recognoistre, sinon que
a cause
est
une
petite ville,
ou demeurent tous
aux environs: outre lesquels y a des Janissaires et des Spahis de la porte, qui y sont en garnison, tant pour la seurete des chemins, que pour tenir en subjection dix mille Chrestiens qui sont a deux
lieues a la
ronde de cette
ville":
on y
voit
parmy
ville,
eux.
La
elle
riviere
de
Nice, appellee par ceux du pais Nicava^, qui vient des montagnes
voisines de Bulgarie, passe aupres de la
le
dont
emprunte
la
nom,
et se
riviere
la
de Morava
diversifie
en collines
remplis de bois, bien qu'ils soient assez fertiles; mais les habitants
same experience.
See See
See
p. 70.
p. 70.
^ i.e.
^ *
describes the road between Nice and Rashan as plaine, although desert and full of woods." See p. 70.
^
Mundy Mundy
See
Roshneah.
p. 70.
"faire
and
p. 69.
See
p. 68.
205
n'ont pas le courage de travailler, parce que les Turcs leur ravissent
tout ce qu'ils ont^
La Serve
I'Eglise
est
aux
villages
II
grand chemin, ou
autres
ils
se retirent volontiers\
y a
parmy
si
les
Chrestiens:
mais
ils
sont
tous
si
pauvres et
que
comme
gabions couverts
pour
fort
eviter la tyrannie
de ces
infidelles
Et neantmoins
fait
bon vivre, car les volailles n'y content que dix-huict deniers, et les moutons quinze sols, mais pour le pain et le vin, il en faut faire provision aux villes et bourgs, pource qu'il ne s'en trouve pas de bon aux villages.
Le
le
de Nice:
parce
qu'il faut
nous accompagner^
En
est
sortant de Nice,
Ton entre
environnee de montagnes^,
il croist abondance de ris rouge, qui n'est pas du tout bon que le blanc. A la sortie de cette plaine, nous montasmes une montagne assez difficile pour les carosses: et apres avoir marche neuf heures nous arrivasmes en un village appelle la Pallanque de Mehemet Bascha^...Nous allasmes encore coucher a Cruchismet, qui est a une heure du chemin au de-la: ce village Les mauvais traittemens qu'ils est tout habite de Chrestiens ^
regoivent
des
Turcs
sont
cause
le
qu'il
y en
a plusieurs
c'est
il
qui
grand chemin':
pourquoy en
y a un lieu
appellent
enferme
de
revestues
de torches,
qu'ils
ils
Pallanques*',
ou
les
See p. 67 f. Pindar was also provided with a guard between Nice and Palanca.
p.
See
^ *
^
69.
this district
on
p. 69.
where Mundy calls the place simply Palanca. The village was abandoned when Mundy passed through
p. 67.
it
in
1620.
See
p. 68.
2o6
APPENDIX
F.
EXTRACTS FROM
compagnie afin de resister aux Turcs qui les pourroient quand ils sont pris, on les empalle sur le grand chemin^ sans autre forme de proces Le lendemain vingt et uniesme, nous descendismes la monde
attaquer: car
le
jour auparavant,
au bas de
la quelle est
tres-fertile,
qui porte
le
nom
nomme Dragoman ^
s'esgarerent, et
le
mener
droit a
Dragoman
prindrent
qu'ils
jamais moyen
qui ne
les
mal
traiter^
Le jour
fertile
suivant,
que
la
EUe
soixante villages,
tous
habitez
de
montueuse
si
et plus
que
la Servie:
mais
elle n'est
pas
si
agreable ni
diver-
Les montagnes sont tellement hautes que la plus-part Elles enferment sont couvertes de neges neuf mois de I'annee.
comme
et
j'ay
deja
dit,
abondantes.
il
II
neantmoins
Ton mange de
si
n'est cuit
que dessous
les cendres'',
et est
See p. 71
See
p. 66.
for
^
^
*
*
Mundy's halting-place between Sophia and Sharkoi was Zaribrod. Possibly this was Mundy's "Zarebrode, a little village." Seep. 66.
See See
p. 67.
p. 66.
at the
end of
this
Appendix.
20/
s'y
mal
pestri,
que Ton
vulgaire
est
pouvoir
accoustumer.
La langue
du
la Romanic. Ceste Province est Tune des plus habitees de Chrestiens qui soient en Turquie, outre ceux qui suivent I'Eglise Grecque dont il y a trente fois autant
il y peut avoir quinze mille Catholiques Romains I'Evesque de Ciproa, ils habitent en cette partie de sujets a
que de Turcs
du Danube.
On
que ce
habits:
somptueux en
Turcs ne leur
Elles pendent
car
que
les
vestues.
les pieces,
tant
Elles
un
tel artifice,
:
qu'on a bien
leur vont par
de
la
peine a recognoistre
la tissure
de I'ouvrage
ils
derriere
jusques
la
ceinture,
et
agencez^
fil
de di verses couleurs*.
point avec
Et
comme
elles
dequoy nous ne
couleurs.
. .
les
enrichissions
ce meslange de
La
ville
de Sophie, capitalle de
de chemin de
la
que
de
c'est la
Tibisque de Ptolomee
la ville
fois la ville
de Sardique.
mais
demy de
latitude et
au quarante-neuf de longitude
sont cause que I'Hyver y dure plus que I'Este, et qu'il y pleut fort souvent. Elle n'est point
Midy
Mundy
See
p. 78.
See
p.
See
See
p. 76. p. 77
at the
end of
this
Appendix.
See ante,
and
p. 63.
208
APPENDIX
F.
EXTRACTS FROM
arosee que d'un grand ruisseau qui
fermeede murailles,
la plus-part
et n'est
passe par dedans les rues, les plus marchandes sont couvertes, et
les
que
la ville se
montre
fort
grande.
La Mosque'e
principale
nom
de saihcte
auparavant
donne
le
nom
de Sophie a
la ville, qui
s'appelloit Sardique.
Hors
cette.
Mosque'e
de considerable; car
elle est
que
de Turquie,
et
la
demeure en est si mal-saine, a cause des marecages qui I'environnent du coste du Septemtrion, qu'elle ne se fust pas conservee comme elle est, n'estoit que le Beglerbey de la Grece y fait sa residence '....Or dautant que cette ville est le siege du gouverneur de la Grece, il ne sera point hors de propos de dire que le gouvernement de la Grece, que les Turcs appellent Romeli" Beglerbeilic, est le plus
honnorable
est
et le
premier de toute
la
Turquie,
tant pource
que
le
grand Seigneur
lui
Constantinople,
qui
sont
sujettes.
Car ce Beglerbey
commande
lui,
a I'Epire, a I'Acaye
et a la
Moree
il
commandent
le
le
mesme grande
plaine....A trois
la petite
apres avoir
fait
prend sa source au pied du mont Rodope. Et encore environ quatre heures de chemin, nous
ou ayant marche quatre bonnes heures et rencontre plusieurs villages nous arrivasmes a Ictiman^: en ce bourg il y a plusieurs
Turcs encore que tous
Chrestiens, les Turcs de
les villages circonvoisins soient
habitez de
toute la
See
See
p. 63. p. 61.
209
En
couvrir a
main droicte
le
en peut
differe
oCi
elle
le
ne
qu'en
ce
qu'elle
C'est
lieu
entendre autrefois
la
douceur
siecle,
de sa harpe dont
car
il
la
memoire
perpetuee jusques en ce
larmes
qu'il
seconde
fois sa
femme
Euridice donnerent
commencement
a ces
sources-...
Le vendredi vingt-cinquiesme
fascheuse, pour les
village
le
Sieur des
la
Capigi Dervent^,
a dire
portier de la
et
montagne apres avoir emploie sept heures a monter a descendre, nous arrivasmes en un grand village nomme par
Turcs Jancoli,
la
les
et
par
les
le
premier
de
Romanic,
comme
Capigi est
le
long de
nomme
Basargic^,
beau Quiervansara
basti par
Hibraim Bascha.
du monde, et par les Turcs montagnes covertes de bois, comme Balkan est celuy des rochers tout nuds c'est celle que les Ces passages sont anciens ont cogneue sous le nom d'Hoemus.
Dervent, qui est
le
nom
de toutes
les
grandement
commandent pour
si
le
grand
bon
ordre, qu'aux
il
mesmes aux
y a
des soldats
destinez pour
passent, sans
See note 9 on
p. 61
See
p. 152.
^ * ^
The
See
Mundy.
on
p. 60.
See
p. 61.
60
f.
and note
See
Tatar Bazarjik.
p. 60.
^
See
p. 61
f.
See
p. 66.
M.
14
F.
2IO
APPENDIX
EXTRACTS FROM
Le Samedi vingt-sixiesme, apres avoir marche six heures dans une plaine, ayant tousjours la riviere de Marissa a main droite nous arrivasmes a Phillippopoli, que les Turcs appellent Philiba^ II y a le long du chemin plusieurs butes de terre, qu'ils estiment estre les sepultures de quelques-uns de leurs ennemis, que leurs
ancestres ont defaits en ceste plained
La
de
villa
de Philippopoli
est
dans
la
Romanie,
situee sur le
herd
la riviere
ment
quasi tout
reste
qu'elle a
:
mais
plus aucune
marque
de son fondateur...
Le jour suivant, qui fut le vingt-septiesme de Juin, ayant marche neuf heures dans une plaine assez fertile, comme le sont toutes celles de la Romanie, nous arrivasmes a Cayali'*, qui est un
grand
village tout habite
la
langue Esclavone.
Le Lundy
oti
il
vingt-huictiesme, nous
coucher a Her:
chemin de Cayali c'est un bourg y a quelques Turcs, aupres duquel est un grand village habite
Juin, nous repassasmes la riviere
pierre,
de Chrestiens.
Le Mardy vingt-neufiesme de
de Marissa,
Bascha*'
:
sur
un
petit
pont de
basty par
et
Mustapha un
nous
mesme
riviere,
arrivasmes a Andrinople.
Au
reste,
la
Turquie
tirent
de grands
advantages de
mal
qu'ils
en
dity publique
Pour
I'ordinaire
ils
See
See
See
p. 54
f.
"
See
p. i-,^.
^ggep.
p. 54.
55.
^
^ *
The "Cayalucke"
p. 52. p. 5
1
of
Mundy.
and
See
f.
its
story.
211
les passans,
Les autres bastissent des QuiervansarasS avec des hopitaux, ou de quelque Religion qu'ils soient, peuvent estre nouris
II
y en a plusieurs sur le
chemin de Belgrade
a Constantinople, ou quand nous y logions on nous apportait k chacun une portion. Ceux qui n'ont pas moyen de faire une si
grande despense, font venir de
bastir des ponts^
I'eau sur le
pour
le
La
loit
villa
comme
s'appel-
Oreste^
d'une
colline, a
Fendroit
oh
riviere
de Tunze
et celle
de
Harde
perdent leur
nom dans
celle
de Marissa*....
fait
Le
Othomans] y ont
de-la
ville s'est
beaucoup accreue au
de I'enceinte de I'Empereur
et qui se
trouve en
la ville.
Les bastiments
particuliers
il
Quand aux
ou
les
edifices publics,
y a
comme une
II
halle
ou
voiite, et fort
en toutes
les villes
d'un
mesme
Si
mestier demeurent en
mesme
endroit.
Au
plus haut
fait
de
la ville est
bastir.
assiete tres-agreable, et
un beau pont de
on ne trouvera point de
il
edifices publics.
La
II
ville
le
Beglerbey, ou Gouver.
neur de
la
y a pour la garde de la
au surplus que
Seigneur
de
la
personne du grand
partismes
Apres avoir demeure un jour entier a Andrinople, nous en et le Jeudy, premier jour de juillet, sur les dix heures pour regler nos journees, nous ne marchasmes que quatre heures
:
See
See
p. 52
p. 49.
f.
See
^
p. 52. p. 62.
See p. 155.
See
See
p. 67
and note.
14
212
jusques a
APPENDIX
F.
EXTRACTS FROM
:
c'est
un
petit
bourg habite
de Turcs,
y a neantmoins une belle Mosquee, et un grand Quiervansara, couvert de plomb, qu'un des principaux Tresoriers du pais a fait bastir pour I'expiation de ses fautes. La chaleur
nous contraignit a changer I'ordre de notre voyage, et a nous servir de la nuit au lieu du jour, ce que les Turcs font ordinairement mais davantage en Asie et en Afrique, ou les chaleurs sont plus
grandes.
et apres avoir
publique
car en
nous allasmes disner a un village nomme Babaesqui^, et de-la coucher a Bergase^ ayant marche unze heures en tout. II y a encores en ce bourg une fort belle Mosquee, et un grand Quiervansara, que Mustapha Bascha a fait bastir, et ou il a
quelque temps,
laisse tant
les
et
du mouton. ...
soir
:
apres
marche dix heures, et fait repaistre nos chevaux dans les prairies, nous arrivasmes a un bourg nomme Chiourli^, ou Selim perdit la bataille qu'il donna contre son Pere Bajazet. On voit en
ce lieu tant de tortues, que la terre en est presque toute couverte a
cause que
les
Grecs ni
les
Nous partismes de
de
Juillet.
du matin
le
quatriesme
les
nous
rivage de la
Tout
le pais
:
desagreable
ennuyent infiniment*.
'
See
p. 49.
See
60),
p. 48.
See
p. 47.
Constantinople unto Adrianople is a plaine Champion Countrie without either Tree or bush excepting att Townes or
^
Mundy
says (see p.
"From
Villages."
213
presque
une
petite ville
entierement ruinee
les Grecs.
lieu,
II y
c'est
pourquoi
que
de-la
on descouvre tous
les
Au
dessous de
mieux que
et
n'y a point
trafic. ...
de port pour
les vaisseaux,
consequemment point de
De
son
mer de Marmora
I'espace
de
trois heures, et
est sur un destroit par ou la un grand estang sale. Nous trouvasmes le long de ce rivage I'air beaucoup plus doux, et le pays bien plus fertile et plus agreable que dans les plaines de Thrace. Apres avoir disne en ce village, nous marchasmes encores le long de la mer I'espace de trois heures, et arrivasmes au bourg de Couchiouc Chekmege^, qui prend aussi son nom d'un petit pont, qui est sur un destroit moindre que le premier, ou la mer fait un autre estang sale, lequel s'unit avec le precedent. L'on y pesche une tresgrande quantite de poisson, et les rivages y sont embellis de plusieurs maisons de plaisance, a la mode du pays, ou les Turcs
nom du
mer
s'engolphe, et
vont prendre
II
I'air.
ce
de ne pouvoir
ils
faire oraison
ne se soient
de leurs corps
pourquoy tous ceux qui fondent des Quiervansaras y font conduire de I'eau, afin de donner moyen aux passants d'y faire leurs prieres, et d'y louer Dieu.
avec lesquelles
ont offense
;
c'est
Le Quiervansara du
ayons rencontre, parce
est
l'on
petit
pont
est le plus
qu'il
que
veue y
2
-'
The Ponto Grande of Mundy. See p. 46. The "Ponto Piccolo " of Mundy. See p. 45 Mundy calls it "a good stone Cane." See p.
f.
46.
214
APPENDIX
F.
Les
lieu,
jusques a ce
mesmes
tentes,
les
du grand Seigneur soient advertis pour les rececoustume de loger chez des particuliers, plus grands Seigneurs du pais campent avec leurs
marche cinq
Le jour
dautant que- pour aller a Pera oli est le logis du Roy et la demeure des Ambassadeurs^, il faut passer au milieu de la ville, et traverser le port dans une barque, ce qui nous eust este fort incommode, a cause de nostre esquipage, nous trousvasmes plus a propos
et
de
fut
faire le tour
de
la ville et
un peu plus
long.
heures
en quel-
que
nous
Belgrade a Constantinople il y ait environ deux cents lieues de France, et de Paris a Constantinople sept cens que nous fismes en
deux mois
nous arrivasmes a
^
'^
f.
Pindar's party occupied twenty-four days in the the 6th to the 30th of May, 1620.
^
same journey,
viz.
from
in four
Pindar's party accomplished the same distance in the opposite direction months all but two days. Pindar travelled via Venice and Northern Italy, while Des Hayes took the route via Strasburg and Vienna.
^
See note on
p. 190.
21
2.
overland} fuade by
Narration of the Journey from Constantinople to Dujikirke Mr. fames Modyford, Mr. Richard Nevett
Bargrave'^.
sett
By
God we
Day
mounted on
we
Lyon
go about 800
six
where
so
is
We
Towne
;
named from
the
Former
and
City
full
of ruinous old
as I could
:
my
memorable markes of Antiquity both here and throughout the Country from the knowledge of the Stupid Inhabitants whose Minds, as much enslav'd as their bodies are otherwise employed then about such Curiosities This days travell
all
:
fertile,
affording store
Towne
came about seven howers travell to a Corne Land Plaine, keeping about two miles distance from the Seae, on as even and as pleasant Ground as can be seen besprinkled with many pretty villages, faire country houses, and numerous Fountaines whose beauty as well pleasd our Eyes, as theyre Liquor our panting Thirsts. Here we
Septr. the
We
The
MS.
C. 799,
fols.
49
Only those passages have been selected in which the route followed by Bargrave was identical with that described by Mundy in Relation II. Robert Bargrave, who was a "younger sonn" of Dr Isaac Bargrave,
5
1 . "^
Dean
in
of Canterbury (see the Diet, of Nat. Biog.), spent the years 1648 1652 in southern and central Europe, and has left a quaint and interesting MS. chronicle of his experiences.
travelling
^ ^
* ^
2l6
APPENDIX
F.
Road
these
lying from
less
employd
On
Plaines an
{for
want of
We
remained
at
13th some eight howres travell along the same continued Plaine,
plentifully stor'd with
of which
our
Gunns
is
Towne
calld
Burgoss\
a
Mosque
side,
(or
one
Cane^
for Travellers
them very
the other.
Chambers
Street,
one
to
Travellers Gratis'^
vizt. for
every
hung up and a Carpet Spread, a sufficiency of Bread and admirable Pottage made of Mutton and wheat which for Curiosity sake we tasted of By the way I noted and was throughly enformd, that the Turkes Charitie is chiefly exercised in building of Canes'* and Fountaines for convenience to Travellers in memorie perhapps of theyr own advance by wandring motions when such Helpes as these were most gratefull Bulgaria...! could note litle but the strange abundance of Chattering Magpies and of scolding women to which Exercise theyr Language^ helps much and tis probable those mimick birds
are are decoyd hither by the Delight they have in the Musique. ...The
women
here do allmost
all
Men; having a masculine proportion apted for it. Theyr Habit is a kind of Gowne without Sleeves wrought round at the Bottome,
as are also theyr
They weare Sylver Rings almost on every finger Bracelotts of black and white Beads or Shells upon theyr wrists and great Collars of sylver Coines about theyr
works on both do appeare.
Necks'.
See
^
^
aitte, p.
212.
APPENDIX
G.
Dover
I
St.
London I
had
in
money
^
o.
o.,
one
ii5".
Richard Symonds, eldest son of Edward (or Edmund) Symonds, was He at the Plumtrees (now the Buck), Black Notley, Essex, in 1617. joined the royalist army, in 1643, '^^^ became a member of the troop which formed the king's lifeguard. In January, 1649, Symonds set out on his European travels and remained abroad till about the end of 1652. During these years he set down his impressions in various note-books, which contain much valuable memoranda relating to the topography and genealogy of the places he visited, as well as many interesting artistic notes. The two volumes used in Appendix G are entered in the British Museum Another of Mr. Symonds' [a) Harl. MS. 943. catalogue of MSS. as follows Manuscripts; wherein he has inserted, (1) Several notes relating to his own private Affairs, and the disposition of them. (2) Notes relating to his Charges in travailing into France, A. D. 1648 9. (3) Observations made by him in France, touching the Countrey, the People, their Fashions, Manners, and Customs, with Heraldical Matters, Church-Notes, &c. (4) Like Observations on his Journey from Paris to Italy, by the way of Savoy. (5) Discourses and Observations, touching various matters, thought worthy of remembrance by Mr. Symonds. (6) Notes concerning Mr. Symonds his Journey from Alexandria (b) Harl. MS. to Genoa and so to Rome with Lists of Books and Pictures, 1278. A Modern MS. in 8vo. bought of Mr. Peter le Neve and written by the hand of Mr. Richard Symonds. It containeth (i) His observations made upon his View of all the Public Buildings in Paris with Copies and Draughts of Arms, Inscriptions, Epitaphs, Habits, Dials, &c. (2) At the beginning, is a Table of the said Buildings, as Churches, Monasteries, Colleges, &c. The passages extracted from these two MSS. are those relating in any way to Mundy's journey from Turin to Dover and to the buildings in Paris of which he has an account in Relation II. A few of Symonds' entries of expenses are given, but many curious and interesting observations have, perforce, been omitted, since they have no direct bearing on Mundy's
born
Travels. Of the seventeen note-books left by Symonds, four only have been printed in extenso. These contain his Diary of the Marches of the Royal Army during the great Civil War. They were edited for the Camden Society in 1859 by Charles Edward Long. Other note-books of Richard Symonds have been largely used by Morant in his History of Essex and by Walpole in Anecdotes of Painting. For a detailed account of the life and works of Richard Symonds (who died cii-c. 1692) see the account in the Diet, of Nat. Biog.
^
^
i.e.
1648/9.
notes at the beginning of Harl. MS. 943 (from which the above extracts are taken), are very disconnected and are interspersed with numerous entries of items of expenditure.
The
; ;
2l8
Elizabeth,
5 5 /....For
i
APPENDIX
thick
I
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
thin
peice.
peice,
Exchang'd
to
Paris
which
5 livres
is.
barge, 6d.
hyre for
breakfast there, 2s. Horse and a guide to Sittingburne, 18 myle, lox. thence to Canterbury, 15 myles\ ^s. Servant, 2d. bayte there, Hostler, IS. 6d. Post and guide from Canterbury to Dover, 8i-. 6d. bayt at Canterbury, d>d. gave the boy that rode with me all
;
my
the
way to Dover, is. my post boy, is. At Dover at the Greyhound ^ but if ever I passe agen, to ride to the Queens Armes at the peere, for many reasons, especially for the convenience of being neere the botes and sparing expences Supper, fire, lodging, etc., i2.f. ...All that part of Dover which is
; :
calld
memory of
man,
castle
now.
at Callis.
enterd a shallop,
5i'.
;
and
at
at Cains'*.
'jd.
;
Passage,
porter, 7^.
boy, 2d.
night, 2 j-.
porter at Callis,
...
lodging at Dover,
to Callis,
Wednesday
Tuesdays and
terbury on Tuesdays
of passage goe from Gravesend to Canand Fridays of corse My lodging at Callis, Charitie, supper, lodginge and dinner 4 and 5 January, 6s. 6d. 2d. wine, i pint and mad: Flomrey, ^d. I set out with the Messenger Jantiary 5, 1648, Friday^.
Fridayes.
; ;
The coaches
Mundy
Mundy
See
p.
gives
p.
Sittingbourne as
II miles.
2 ^
'*
See
also lodged at this inn in 1620. See p. 134. 134 for Mundy's remarks on the " peere " and harbour at Dover.
Mundy made
p. 134.
Dover
in three
See
^
MS.
943, relating to
is about a century later than the original. It consists of ten quarto pages, bound up with Sloane MS. ^11^ (Biographical Anecdotes, Bibliotheca Birchiana) and is en\.\t\edi,Jotn-nal 0/ the The copyist prefixes the following Travels of Richard Symonds, 1648 jg. biographical notes to his extract from Symonds' account of his travels " was the son of Edward Symonds of Black Notley in the Kounty of Essex
He
by
his
Wife Anna
and John
dated October 12, 1636, leave to his two sons Edward six hundred pounds each to be paid them at their several ages of
;
which Edward by
He
219
Paris,
London
We
left Callis
and about seven that night, we Came to Bollon thorough a hilly Country, and by reason the Water has made deep gulls every
where,
tis
a very
rode in
Near Callis some Sandy Way. Villages stands thick, but very small, where a few Cottages built of stone and thatcht are neare the Church, which also is poore. Here the Country people plough with three small horses, that go
England,
now and
then a
fair
all
Land
as
they lay
all
one way
alike,
but
on our
Journey.
right
hand,
saw
in this
is
Wood
but what
in-
garrison.
the
From Bullen wee marcht along the shore. BuUen is no The Town stands upon a high HilP, and in the middle Church, which is large. Wee lay at the golden Horn in the
Here
is
lowTowne^.
soil is better,
a monastery of Capuchines.
is
This Country,
like Cornwall.
This
and more fruitfull, not so rockie. About one of the Clock we got to Montrill, a strong Garrison upon the summitye of a Hill^ and four or five Churches in it. In one of them on the left hand, as you enter into the west end, lies an old Monument of a Knight in old Armour like our Templars'*. I It is a faire town and many hansome howses and good shops.
pull off their hatts
Cokes shops. Here the country people and goe out of the way with their Waynes, which Waynes are drawne with three horses, and the Waggoner
in the
three and twenty Years. To his Daughter Anne ^500 to be paid at the age of twenty years, or at the day of her marriage, which shall first happen. Edward Symonds was baptis'd at Black Notley 20 December 1621, John 10 April 1627,
Anne
'
31
March 1631."
p.
See
132.
Mundy Mundy
There
Towne."
*
also in the
"lower
See
over
describes Montreuil as
p. 132.
^
is
"Arms embossed
the figure."
220
sitts
APPENDIX
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
Browne horses
are
all
as I have
yet seen.
This passage was good, an open Country, and some hills adorned with Woods such like some parts of Northamptonshire.
entered Abbeville "^ so called, as
Masse time we some famous Abbey. There, indeed, part of a great church and lofty and other There is five or buildings remain, which shew a great fabrique.
Sunday
early
we
left
that hostelrie
I
and
early at
suppose, from
six
This
is
the best
buildings
In
this
passage
we came by
many Churches, which stood not above half a myle from each other. We came near an Abbey, where, in the woods, are snares About of Ropes and pullyes sett upon the Trees to catch birds. Callis and this part of Picardy are many such crows, which are
about Cambridge, and calld Royston Crows. The Chancels of the Countrey Churches are for the most part higher then the church.
The
steeple a Wall,
The
wherein two holes are cutt for two small A^illages have not above five or six poor
;
a few trees;
The houses have an outward Doore besides the inward spHnts, not much different from our Essex Gates to
braking open.
Abbeville
the
is
preserve
fortified strong,
Works I
and many Trees in rows within and a good towne, but dirty,
is
which
is
large.
small Chapels in the high way with an Altar of stone and a statue.
After dinner
we went
it
nyne
This
passage and Country is champagne and hilly. Thin of parishes. fenct in, but open to the Champagne.
1
The woods
are not
The Bearne
See
p.
1
of
Mundy, who
calls
it
See
p. 132.
^
=
f.
Mundy had no time to make observations at Abbeville, as he stayed there "only to breake fast." ^ Symonds, no doubt, had reason to distrust the native estimate of the Mundy gives 18 miles between the two distance between Abbeville and Poix. places. See p. 131 f.
221
at
gentlemans Howse
it,
In the valley, as
we
small Garrison.
is
They
call it
Pont d'armee\
Upon
the draw-
bridge a Wolfes head and clawes nayled.... Here, as elsewhere, the lower Poix is a small village ^
parts.
Here, in
this inn,,
Woman
servants, or
fill
Maid
the fellows to
On
it
which
is
faire,
which lookes afar off like lead. Munday morning wee marcht January, Julia7i accornpt. 9 from thence through a fair hilly Country, where the Villages The hills are plowed, stand in the Vallyes for the most part.
shingles,
soil.
But
this
journey was
far better
About the middle of the way, on the No Gentlemans. left hand, wee left a lofty, large and fair Castle. bowses all this way, but one, and that was in our way near that. Many Dovehouses and great flocks of pidgeons. Castle. In the beginning of the Evening we entered the faire, and the:
best towne I have yet scene in France, of Beauvois^.
Six or
Abbey
them.
outside
of Westminster.
The houses
are lofty,
in this
all
the
and holding the dead body of our Saviour in her Lap. This town is seated in a Valley the rivers run through it, and the lofty hills, which inviron it, are
;
Virgin
Mary
The
also,
though the
in this
nothing so often.
The
great
Church
town
extreme
lofty.
many
as
Windowes, but faire old Glasse, Tis called I'Eglise de nor noe old monuments of any notice.
England.
I
saw no arms
in the
^ See Mundy agrees with Symonds in the distance betweea. p. 131. Abbeville and "Pondormy."
See
p. 131.
222
S.
Pierre.
APPENDIX
The
fairely
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
the faire
south
fair
ile
is
Entrance,
whereto you
are large,
stone steps.
and very
Font
is
carved in
Wood
The
middle and
on each side of him. The habitt of the Churchmen, whereof I saw many, is black gowne and whood hanging with a long poke behind ; under it a demy surplice laced at
his six Disciples
bottom.
of looo
squared
into
is
in
The Windowes
is
are of
lett
of
them.
Some
Lis,
flowers
De
&c.
About ten of the Clock, wee left this town, and marcht over a champagne, hilly, chalky and not very plentifull Country. Yet many of the hills are tilld, and yield hopes of an ensuing plentifull harvest. And when we had past a long Cawsey and bridge, wee entered Beaumond', which has two or three Churches and a very old, ruind, yet fortified Castle. This Towne is built of stone and of no great note. This is i6 Myles from Paris ^, and stands in the Confines of the Country or Province of France. Next morning wee passed through a Country which is as far beyond Picardy as England beyond Wales, both for Gentlemans howses, neat Villages, a fair Cawsey of stone almost all the way to Paris Vineyards and Orchards of Cherryes, apples and peares
;
most part of the way, on either hand. ...The villages are for the most part consisting of a Gentlemans howse, a pretty Church,
and in many not above six, seven or eight howses with Orchards and a Grove for the most part within a Wall. We entered St. Dennis*, where the faire Abbey is much
beautified with a stately Church, where the Kings of France are
buried....
To
bearing
my
my
15. o.
Gave
to servants in
my
passage^
is.
6d.
The
See
p. 131.
Mundy
p. 131
f.
miles.
See
^
See
p.
130.
his daily expenditure are scattered over his interspersed with his account of scenery or buildings.
Symonds' notes of
MS. and
; ;
223
me
man
and in enterfor this Journey. Captains of Colonel Rookebeyes Regiment at teyning three To the messengers master at Paris for my Beaumond, 2s. Portmantue, which did weigh 36 Pound (I was allowed 5/.), at The messenger La liberie had of me at St. 4d. the /., los.
etc.,
is.
3^.
January.
My
lodging at
to
at
La Rue de Roy, Satterday afternoone and dyett, los.-... the three Mores heads in La Rue St.
St.
Cristofers in
Jaque, Tuesday, 15 January ^... My being in pension at the Three Mores, in Rue St. Jaque, three weekes, to the 15 of February,
up Nostre Dame steeple, 3^.* and St. Gave my landladyes servant, ^d. ; the maid, S^-^--Etienne, Bootes mending, ^d. Paid my landlady at the Three Mores to the 2nd. of March, two weekes at a pistol the weeke i/. 13^'. 4d.^
3/.;
The Ceremonies
of the Church,
i^.
3^.
Paid
my
landlady at
;
Three Mores to the 9th March, 15^. 10^.. ..wood lod. Barbier, -8th March, cutting my hair, 2od. and cleansing my teeth, 40^. he "was not pleased.... Paid my pension to the i6th March, one Making cleane my watch, 2id. razor, yd. Weeke, i6s. 8d. cristall for it, 21^. ...Paid my landlady one weeks money aforehand to the 24th March, 16s. 10^. ...Virgils six books of Aeneads in latine and French, 55-. ; paid one moneth hyring my lute to 29th March, 30^. ...Paid my Landlady at Three Mores, ist April
;
i /. i t,s.
inkhorne,
4^.; gloves
.20^.... at
20^.... Bleeding,
five
19th May,
my
Rue
Sept Voyes,
3^-.
;
2 5^....
3^.;
gloves,
2od.
Looking
;
i^d.; Paid
cloth suite,
my
1
16s. 3^.
;
Mending my
etc.,
May, 2od.
pistole, a
about 2.
\is. od.
The
food,
wine,
books,
only
clothing, etc.
^
Symonds stayed
in
remained in the
*
city for
130.
Mundy
Mundy
also
items of expenditure.
at ids. 8d.
i.
224
APPENDIX
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
removed
to the Quatre Vents,
Friday night,
[?]
May
St.
28//?, I
Rue
St.
Dinner,
i5(/.
Paid
livres,
Madame Martyn
?) ^S^-i
for a
f<^^
To
St.
Denys,
20^.... Paid
for
letters
;
from the
To
my
and
master of French,
Parish
large
is
and
"js.
day
The method
Citty,
Quarter
'
wherein
Secondly, that
is
quarter wherein
the Bastyle.
srdly,
the
Germans.
4thly^
The
River
is
kings
howse
calld
the
Louvre
at
is
Paris ^.
Next the
as
with blew
as
The
where
soone
you enter you ascend some stepps of stone which looke into a
which ascent
is
large garden'^,
a stayrecase
all
of stone of Ovall
is
The Garden
of
many
About the sides are Cipresse trees about twelve in all, which grow high and the body is prund up about a mans height from ground,
the boughes not tyed as ours in England.
is
where, at
upon a flat, the entrance, you looke thorough a walke on each side
all
so troublesomely dirty
tall
tis
a labor to walke in
and Box make the hedges pretty close, So that Box is below and Cipresse above in the same There is a faire pond also in that garden and three hedge.
In the middle
is
a grove of Cipresse
1 The following descriptions of the Louvre, St Innocents, etc. are taken from Harl. MS. i-zjS, which contains Symonds' Notes on Churches and Public Buildings in Paris.
2
^
There
is
a gap in the
MS.
here.
*
''
225
tall
box,
One
side
on the
kept as thus
of France
is
walls, as in
many
other places
defend you from the hot reflection of the Sun upon those
The
first
Court
is
begun
to
be
and
large,
The
brick
not halfe-way
rooft,
paved with
and two
Row
The
white marble.
to
the
painting, statues
little
The Roofe has halfe and antique worke upon painting of Mosaique^. In a
not one perfected nor begun.
all
the
Fouys
and
their
Ladyes'*.
and the heads of all about them their Queenes the other Monsr. Bunel was a painter in this
at length
;
Gallery.
Under the long gallery is a place is called the Bureau d'Adresse. Here a man has bookes of Servants and Lacquies names. Every
name entred and and those that want servants come to him and give him ^d. also for his payment of helping him to him. The Roofe has many storyes of men and women. At the farther End aloft sitts Henry IV. in a throne and his Court about him. In the middle is a square place rayld in and a step higher then the other for the King and Queene to be in when there are bien du monde. No other paintings of note in this large Howse except four seasons done by Bassano small, the things lesse then
condition,
the
life....
Des Hostels plus Remarquables en Fauxbourg S. Germain. In the large Street at the foregate of Louxemberg in the middle
of the street that which was the house of the Marquis d'Ancre* Here
a rough sketch of
is
is
box
two
different shapes.
is
In Uarl.
MS.
Much
^ In Harl. MS. 943, Symonds says that the "little gallery is as you goe from the Queen of Englands Cot into the long gallery." See p. 128. ^ Seep. 129. Seep. 127.
''
M.
15
226
APPENDIX
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
Embassadeurs Extraside
now
ordinaires^.. Hostel
de Luxembourg.
is
The one
and
fairely
next the
finisht
guilded within.
The One
side
is
a gallery
life
flat
Roofe but
is
fairly guilded,
and on the
of Marie de Medicis^....
There
in
Rue
St Denys, a small
No handsome Church
within, a faire
Monument
end of the South yle of a Woman a foot from ground, Tis of a Nun 1400 and od^, her portrait in solid TheHangins of the body of the church were the biggest brasse. paintings I ever saw and rarely done, much spoyled and raffled, story
in the east
of our Saviour,
Pilate
large
Many
persons in a peice,
&
a Cloister
Round
it
whose roofe
all
is
of sculls
and
bones*.
This
is
strangers,
Many
crosses
head of the
graves....
Dame. Tis seated in a hole very low, from Pont Nostre Dame tis downe hill to it. Two lofty great Towers
Eglise de Nostre
at the west
in them^.
Many
and
old statues
six of his
and very long. Above is the last judgment with a world of bodyes and people.... This Church is very broad considering the height, which is very low in the
on
yles,
Pillars in the
body and
Quire....
Some much
Windowes
on the
South part of the Crosse are far bigger then the life, for men passing under them lookt like pigmies at the distance.... The
Roofe of
is
this
is
Their
Dyett*^.
my Inn
also
it
was
ordinary to [have] rost beife at night, burne the out side and the
it.
They have
See
p. 126.
Mundy
visited
Paris in
1620.
See
p.
126.
'^
The
See
to her age.
*
p. 129.
See
From
Notes of Travels
MS.
943,
Symonds'
THE NOTE-BOOKS OF RICHARD SYMONDS
of CoUyflower stalks.
22/
oat meal....
Mountebank and
his
Crocodyle
Skins and selling his medicaments with his quack confidence to the
people under the brasen Horse of Henry IV. upon Pont Neuf'....
3
August.
first
Left
Paris
and, with
the
messager of Nevers^
Went many
night,
pretty
howses
five
little
Seigneur de
la village
Wee
Wednesday,
Country... the
not
fruitfull...few
Churches
and
poore ones, playne Country This day we passd through Montargig^, where stands an old
The River
is
meadowes
boats
made
here....
La Buciere...a pleasant place, but barren... a little afore wee came to the next Ville or Bourge, which is small and Joyned to Here is a Canall that was made about twenty yeares the Loyre^.
since,
is
at Montargis.
At the
hills.
botes so they
filled,
mount up
Les Escluses
Briare*.
hills
sluices
rose,
they are
is
noone passage to Bony^, a walld towne upon Loyre.... The Loyre is broad having much sands and wast
and dales
ground, of every side unfruitfuU.
Tis a rude Valley from Briare,
and high
hills
hill in
Church This night wee lay at a walld Ville they call Coane upon the river. Cone sur Loyre ^... The Ville is walld and draw bridged;
a pretty
little
call
Beau
1 See p. 125. Here follows a list of the books which Symonds left in Paris and of those which he took with him on his journey to Turin. ^ Symonds' route from Paris to Briare was via Montargis and La Bussiere. Mundy and his party, travelling in the opposite direction, followed the Loire from Briare to Orleans and thence to Paris. See jjp. 121 124. * See p. 121. ^ Probably Gien is meant. See p. 122. 5 Mundy, however (see p. 123), found " the Countrey downe the River very
pleasant."
152
228
APPENDIX
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
Over against
is
this
on the
side
have
many meadowses and good Corne was in the The Loyre broad and full of shelves of sand. La Charite
howses of Religion, a
hill,
our passage.
In
round
it
are
is
many
vineyards,
and below,
Here
Towne
Sandy way. Thence after dinner to Pougues in the Winter a Dirty way and deepe, a Woody Country and a league or two from the Loyre,
to a
little
Rode
to
Nevers^
Lay at Last of Angus t....l^eh Nevers in the way to Lyons Roanne'*, a large towne upon the River of Loyre all the howses
;
have very
stone
;
flat
Wee
passt
it
to the
Chapeau Rouge,
a very
Inn.
The
Hemp, burning
Inn, which
Paris
is
them
light.
The
other chief
the Loup,
The
is
Hence
to Orleans six
Custome
will
to
dayes^ which [?]^ they ask demy pistolP. ...The sell a Bote here for i8 Livres, And the boatmen
crownes''.
2
leagues
Sancerre.
See p. 121.
travelled
by road, while Mundy went by boat down the Loire, and would thus miss Pougues, which is not on the river.
^
Symonds
See
p.
*
^
120.
via Moulins
and La Palisse
to
Roanne,
See p. 120.
Six days was the time occupied by Pindar's party in the passage from Roanne to Orleans.
' 2 ^
Word
illegible.
See note
on
p. 223.
per boate."
See
p. 120.
229
Thence, friday, ten of the clock, wee rode over a hilly mountaynous Country, not fruitfuU, yet having in the narrow valleyes many pleasant meadowes, though no Rivers.... That night Wee lay at Terrara^ in a hole, a little bourg,
unwald....
more Chasteaus and buildings. At noone downe to Lyons. Lyons is very Rocky and mountaynous ground in that side of the towne We enterd, having a castle upon the lofty inaccessible
Country, lesse
hilly,
Rock towards
that
Two
At the second Port was an officer to take our names, and where wee would ly, and where our Cloke baggs were opend. The Evesche' or Cathedral Church is not large nor very remarquable; tis dedicated and caled L'eglise de S. Jean. The Exchange for merchants^ all Soane side. Many steeples coverd with Tin. Some howses with divers colourd Tyles. The Belle Cour is a large flat, and Rowes of Trees, where the people sett and walke.... The River of Roan v/ith his swift streame runs on the south side of the towne; both^ meet in the lower end of the Citty....
I
all
this
Country [France] a
man
or
woman
eye,
very rarely....
Munday, 6 September, one of the clock, left Lyons, tooke the way of Turin, a playne pleasant way, sandy country having
pleasant
little
hills.
Seven leagues to
Bolognie^....
Through pleasant Valleyes, especially and fairest meadow I have seene in France, a castle, a chasteau, aloft on the hill and a handsome village below. Then between, some woody hills but the valley not barren. Many Chesnutt Trees in this passage. The Vynes which are but
Tuesday,
7
September.
largest
Many Vynes run up into the many Timber Trees and Walnutts also.
See
p. 119.
lofty
Tarare.
See
p. 119.
^
^ *
Mundy
i.e.,
230
APPENDIX
G,
EXTRACTS FROM
Wee dyned
journey
at Pont Bon Voisin \ two leagues and halfe on our This was the Hemp The beginning of the Hills.
for all their
Harvest here,
Inn.... Here
[?]^
Sadade de Gascogne.
Grenoble ^
Two
is
five
Leagues from
this place
and the
Health.
Grand Chartreux
three or four.
Over
calld
at
this
Wee
ascended a
lofty hill
which
is
came
In the walls of
this
Wee
The people
it
The Howses
are lofty
and
flat
roofd'^
The
round
and near the Citty. Kill Pigeons putting the head under a wing and throw it to the ground. The Inhabitants speak French, but most with a smack of Italian''. About twelve of the clock. Wee left this Citty and rode through the Valleyes over no mountayne, Wee past many but wending up and downe in a pretty valley. parishes, yet but five leagues that night... on the left hand we left a lofty Castle upon the Rock, inaccessible, commanding a pritty
bourg below
it,
both calld
Mont
in
Mellian''; 1631,
it
The King
of
person beseiged
14 moneths,
drew
faire,
500 men within it. Tis always There are five places one above another
command
The low
walls
have square
this
Mountaynes are the and snow melting and running downe, The Topp and
See
p. 118.
2
^
Word
illegible.
is
is
Symonds
while Grenoble
stream.
*
mistaken. He crossed the Rhone at Pont de Beauvoisin, on the Isere, which at this point is nowhere near the main
^
See
p.
118.
d' Aiguebelette.
i.e.,
Aiguebelette.
p. 118.
Seep. 117
116
f.
f.
The Lac
See
See
p.
^
^* ^^
The "Mummelan"
i.e.,
of
Mundy.
Seep.
116.
the Arc.
Aiguebelle.
Mundy
Seep.
116.
1;
23
mountaynes full of wood The Embassaders armes and other Countryes are in the Inn or post howse^ It raynes almost alwayes on the top of the Mountaynes. Thursday morning, at seven o' the clock, wee sett out and got to our dining place by twelve, being four leagues and somewhat more. This passage was all on the sides of the Rocks, by a Rapid shallow strong roring River, called Lizere^, which goes by Grenoble, The mountaynes yet loftyer then the former, and a
of Venice
league in length
fall
on our heads.
Many
and small Churches on the sides of Sun shone from the early morning, yet came not on the South side of the way till about ten or eleven o' the Clock. Snow in some places on the top. Wee dyned at La Chambre*. Neare this is remayning a Ruyned old Castle, fortifyd, And a Wall afore wee caime to this towne from the Rock to the River to stop the passage, but not
the Hills,
the
now
of use.
This journey
it. Our Host him the reason, and some said twas the Snow water. He laught at that, and said it was the Ayre he never dranke any Water in his life. Here Plums were hangd up
women
I
here had a
little gullet.
askt
by the
stalks in strings,
in a string,
which
last
one not touching the other, and eat well at a year or two
thirty or forty
old.
This
is
The language here is chiefly French, Water they call De Leager; depessa for
for
make
hast;
ouy they
say,
Way, woy.
some
it,
to the Bishoprick of
till
wee entred
but
but
Here
is
one Church and One Convent of Capucins and two or three other
^
'^
Mundy "lay
Read
230.
Ramme"
at Aiguebelle.
See
p.
116.
2
L'Izere.
Symonds mistook
See note
on
p,
^
See
p. 115.
*
^
Mundy
Goitre.
See
114
f.
p. 117.
^
See
p.
See
p.
1 1
5 f
EXTRACTS FROM
is
232
APPENDIX
G.
houses of Religion.
and
little
Chairs,
walnutt.
still
Th[ey] are
still
valley being
church
mountaynes.
In
a
all villages
little
Some times a eat up by this roaring devourer. and two or three howses on the sides of the The Hills Rocky and high, Snow in some places. in the way in the Crosses is cutt a place where
is.
Upon
a bridge this
En
passant par ce
Salutez
La mere de Dieu.
close
Wee
distant
lay
at
St.
Michel^,
from the
last night.
Castle aloft
comands
it,
small,
and
not
is
cald
De
Gouetre^ ou Bron-
chocesse,
Broconsolus.
and he says
Rhume
that
falls
Those
above in the mountaynes have This River nourishes no fish but Des Truits,
that live
.
which are very good. Friday morning. Wee rode by the side of the Rude mounteynes and Hills, being fuller of Deale trees then the former.
all
the Valley
"*
Wee dyned
at
Modene^, a small
After
In
this
way,
wee saw Higher Mountayns with more quantity of Greene Trees, They have no other greene Trees, Vizt., de Pine and de Sapine This was the most fearefull passage'', for as the inhabitants say. the way was high oftentimes and the downfall hideous, The River runing at bottome, which many times could not be disVery many covered, did it not discover it selfe by its noyse.
;
The
Streight sort
is
of three
kinds, broad tops and broad long leaves, two, smaller leaves, and another sort.... This is at the bottom of the two high mountaynes
that exceed
all
Tis calld
Mont
Sinnys.
Now wee
^
turne our
See
way over
1
this
mountayne on the
right hand,
The Arc.
p.
15.
^ ^
Mundy
See
p.
dined at St Michel.
117 and ante, p. 231.
See
p. 115.
^
See
p.
115.
^
^
Mundy's halting-place was Bramant. See p. 115. Lanslebourg. The Lambort of Mundy. Seep. 114. Mundy says that it was "wonderfull steeple." See p. 113.
Modane.
Mt
Cenis.
Seep.
112.
233
on the left hand. Here they call Claret Wine, Vin Ruggis, Corruptedly speake such kind of French as it is Three generally, though divers speake corrupted Italien^
Evesches in Savoye.
March and
most dangerous
moneths
We
mount
One descended
in a Chaire for
5^-.^
A
in
Snow
it
abundance.
and was
as hott as
on the top
was
our
cold....
Wee dyned
title
is
at
of health allowd.
the
La Novaleze^ a The
small Bourg.
river ^
which
Now
wee were
bottome
After dinner, wee went with the River, in a Valley betweene the
St.
Ambrosio'^.
On
to Turino,
Ten
myles, for
now
us,
Looking behind
wee saw winter and felt it that day afore, and now by reason of the wind and fresh grasse, wee seemed to be in the spring, and anon Many Castles in Piedmont upon the in the height of Summer. frontiers. One which was on our right hand was besieged and had four armyes at one time at the siege and reliefe de Villiano^... The Vineyards in the way side are much different from those of
^
See
p.
114
f.
Pindar also descended the mountain "in a chaire betweene two men," but in the contrary direction. See p. 113 f.
^ ^
See
p. 113.
Mundy "lodged
The Dora
att
the
Mt
2 on p. 230, and note 2 on p. 231. Mundy's halting-place was Bussoleno. See p. ri2. Avigliana. Mundy calls the place Viana. See p. iii.
234
APPENDIX
G.
EXTRACTS FROM
For a Row of maples growes in the Corne feilds, France. whereon the vynes run and hang, and these rowes in some pasture feilds grow within six or eight foot distant in two rows and the
vynes are conducted upon poles betweene each other ^.
the
Here
like
prospect of Turin
company
of dirty red
howses, few or no
Turino^.
deepe grasse
officers
[?J^
and
Cittadel
of health,
and the
And
tooke note of
all
our names.
At
them
to the
is sister
to the late as
King of France
**,
French
Italian.... La
maison de
painting.
madame
All the
has
furnisht with
good peices of
Dukes of Savoy on
Horseback
board,
St.
in a large
roome.
Roome. Divers peices of painting upon and a Jew, old and rare like N. Bruyns John work. Some of Michael Angelo, Not many of Titian.... The Stable of the Duke is doubled pillerd within, of brick coverd with plaster, three horses between each pillar, poles going between each horse. The Manger differs from all I have scene. There is no Rack. But that which is our manger is the place where the Hay is putt, deeper and broader then ours, Lathed
other ladyes in another
Baptist
may
fall
downe,
And
sticks.
that the
Hay may
not
be blowne.
put in his
He
corner.
all
Division of deale
This, as
and
this
in their
Accademyes,
is
Towne
broad and
dry,
pavd with Stone. The grasse about many Gardens at bottome, walks of
1
'^
p. 105.
^ Word illegible. See pp. 109 III. * See p. 110 for the marriage of Christine, sister of Louis XIII., to the heir to the dukedom of Savoy, in 1619.
^ The remainder of //arl. MS. 943, with the exception of the items of expenditure which follow, contains notes of places and buildings that have no connection with Mundy's narrative.
235
To
Carreaux
i.f.
two
pistols... lost at
Tennis^
bd.
To
Nevers to Lyons, four dayes Journey from Nevers to Lyons, from Tuesday morning 8 o'clock, arrived at Lyons one Satterday afternoone, 30 livres, 30 francs. At Le feu de France in Lyons at ^od. a day To Tuesday noone, 7th September, two days; a Coach ride, 5^". priests dinner, \^d.; shoes, 50^.; To servants, 2od.
;
To
Turin
3 pistols
and
halfe,
13 livres;
in that
at /^od. a
To
25^.
;
horses,
Bootes setting up, 3 livres, 15 sols^ of Turin. Lodging and eating at the Rosa Rossa in Turin, three dayes at 3
gloves, 2od.
livres a
day of Turin, 13
livres to
a pistol of Spayne
Turin, 30^.
and
ill
wyne,
151^....
OF BOOKS AND
Thomas.
(^Rawl
journal!.. .of
my
travells in
France. ..1633
1635.
MS.
D. 1285.)
:
19278
Museum Library) See Chiswell, Richard. See Mundy, Peter. 19281. See Pococke, Richard. See Tonkin, Thomas. See Italy Travel and Topography.
Bargrave, Robert. A Relation of sundry Voyages and Journeys, 1646 1656. {Rawl. MS. C. 799.) Barton, Edward. The Journey of See Purchas His Pilgrimes. Baudier, Michael. See Grimston, Edward. An account of the voyages and travells of, from Bell, Richard. (Part III. of Sloane Lisbon to Jerusalem in anno 1669.
MS.
Bent,
J.
811.)
Theodore.
in the
Levant.
The
(Hakluyt London,
Blau, Otto.
Berlin, 1877.
Blount, Henry.
Boase,
G.
C.,
Voyage
3rd ed.
London, 1638^.
Cornubiensis.
2 vols.
W.
P.
Bibliotheca
Bodleian Library, MSS. at. See Rawlinson MSS. Boesbec, Auger Ghislin. See Busbequius. Bridges, John. Note-book of travels in Italy &c., 1687 MS. D. 207.)
British
8.
{Rawl.
Harleian
Museum
;
Library,
MSS.
;
at.
See Additional
MSS.
MSS.
Lansdowne MS.
J.
Sloane
MSS.
Burke, Sir
extinct
Bernard.
For the
full title
237
See Yule, Col. H. C. ConBusbequius, A. G. (Auger Ghislin). Travels into Turkey taining the most accurate Account of the Turks and neighbouring nations, Their Manners, Customs, Religion, Superstition, Policy, Riches, Coins, &c. Translated from the Original Latin. London,
:
1744-
Calendars of State Papers. Colonial Series, East Indies, China and London, 1862 1892. Japan, 1599 1634. Calendars of State Papers. Domestic Series. London, 1856 &c. Camden Society, Publications of The. See Glanville, John, and Symonds, Richard. Carew, Richard, of Antonie. The Survey of Cornwall. London, 18 12. Cawston, George, and Keane, A. H. The Early Chartered Companies. London, 1896. Chardin, Sir John. The Travels of, into Persia and the East Indies, Through the Black Sea, and the Country of Colchis. Containing To which is added the Author's Voyage from Paris to Ispahan. The Coronation of this present King of Persia, Solyman III. London, 1691. Chishull, Edmund, B.D. (Chaplain to the Factory of the Worshipful Turkey Company at Smyrna). Travels in Turkey and back to England. London, 1747. CMswell, Richard. Journal of travels through Germany and Italy to
Scanderoon... March
July,
in
1696.
{Add.
MS.
10623.)
Clarke,
E. D. Travels in various Countries of Europe, Asia and Africa. Cambridge, 18 10 1823. 6 vols.
Dr
Clenche, John.
France and Italy made by an English Gentleman [J. C], 1675 1676. London, 1676. Constantinople. Voyage de France a, in ? 1583. {Harl. MS. 6796.) See also Stampes, Mr. Cornwall, Conveyances, deeds, &c., 17th Century. {Harl. MS. 62. a,'^.) Cornwall, Visitation of, in 1620. (Harleian Society's Publications, vol. 9. London, 1874.) Coryat's Crudities Hastily gobled up in five Coryat, Thomas.
Tour
Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia... Helvetia. ..and the Netherlands.. .now dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling Members of this Kingdome. Reprinted from the 161 1 ed.
2 vols.
Glasgow, 1905.
Coulon, Le Sieur. La Fidele Conducteur pour le Voyage de France. Montrant exactement les Raretez et choses Remarquables qui se trouvent en chaques Villes, et les distances d'icelles, avec un denombrement des Batailles qui s'y sont donnees. Paris, 1654.
(ist ed.
1643.)
Coulon, Le Sieur. Le Fidele Conducteur pour le Voyage d'Espagne. Montrant exactement les Raretez &c. Paris, 1654.
Coulon, Le Sieur. Les Rivieres de France ou Description Geographique et Historique du cours et debordement des Fleuves, Rivieres, Fontaines, Lacs et Estangs qui arrousent les Provinces du Royaume de France. Paris, 1644. Court Minutes of the East India Company, 1599 1858. (East India
238
LIST OF
J.
ETC.
neighbourhood.
Courtney,
S.
Guide
to
Penzance and
its
Penzance, 1845.
Courtney,
Covel,
W.
P.
See Boase, G. C.
Dr
John.
The Diary
of. of.
See Hakluyt Society's PubHcations. Dallam, Thomas. De Beauveau, Henri, Baron de Beauveau et de Maronville. Relation Nancy, 1619. Journaliere du Voyage du Levant. D. 0., Le Sieur. See Des Hayes. Delia Valle, Pietro. Les Fameux Voyages de...avec un denombrement tres-exact des choses les plus curieuses, et les plus remarquables qu'il a veues dans la Turquie... 4 vols. Paris, 1664. Des Hayes, Loiiis, Baron de Courmemin. Voiage de Levant. Fait par le Commandement du Roy en I'annee 1621. Paris, ist ed.
1624.
The Diary
Dictionary, Italian. See Fanfani. Nautical, See Smyth, W. H. Dictionary, Dictionary of National Biography. London, 1885 1903. Dictionary, The Oxford English. See Murray, Dr J. A. H. Dictionary, Turkish. See Redhouse, J. W.
Dictionnaire Historique. See Moreri, Louis. D'Oksza, Th. Histoire de L'Empire Ottoman depuis sa Fondation jusqu'a la Prise de Constantinople. Tome i. Constantinople, 187 1. Du Loir, Le Sieur. Voyages. ..Ensemble de ce qui se passa a la mort du feu Sultan Mourat dans le Serrail, &c. &c. Paris, 1654. Dumont, Le Sieur. A New Voyage to the Levant Containing An Account of the most Remarkable Curiosities in Germany, France, With Historical Observations relating Italy, Malta and Turkey 2nd ed. to the Present and Ancient State of those Countries. London, 1696. Du Verdier, Le Sieur. Le Voyage de France, par Jodocus Sincerus (Jean Zinzerling), dresse pour la commodite des Frangois et Estran:
le
Sieur
Du
Verdier.
;
Paris, 1655.
Englefield,
East India Company's Eecords. See Court Minutes Travels in France and Sir Francis, Bart.
{Rawl.
Factory Records.
Italy,
1695.
MS. D.
197.)
Evliya Efendi.
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia and Africa in the seventeenth Century, Translated from the Turkish by the
Ritter Joseph
von Hammer.
Surat,
vol.
2.
London, 1834.
(East
India
Factory Records,
Records.)
Company's
MS.
Fanfani, Pietro.
Firenze, 1855.
France.
History.
R. B.,
An
Epi-
tome &c.
France.
Direction for
Travel and Topography. some person who intended to travel into France and Italy being a short account of the roads, chief cities, and of some rarities worthy to be seen, circ. 1620. {Harl.
;
MS.
288, p. 284.}
LIST OF
France.
ETC.
239
Briefe description of my travels taken by my selfe anno domini 1648 [unsigned]. {Rawl. AIS. D. 120.) Journall of a voyage thro' France and Italy 1658 1659. (S/oane MS. 2142.) Gentlemans Guide, The S. D. See also Clenche, J.
Fraser, Charles.
See Naima.
Gainsford, Thomas.
The Glory
of
England ^
London, 1618.
Galland, Antoine.
1672
Journal de, pendant son sejour a Constantinople, 2 vols. Paris, 1673, publie et annote par Charles Schefer.
1881.
in his Tour through France, wrote by an Royal Navy. London. 4th ed. 1770. 9th ed., with additions by T. Martyn, 1787.
Glanville, John. The Voyage to Cadiz in 1625. Being a journal written by John Glanville. Edited by A. B. Grant. (Camden
Society's Publications.)
London, 1883.
of the
Grimston, Edward.
The History
Translated
Grand Seigneurs.
Baudier.
from
London, 1635^.
See Bent,
J.
Hakluyt
Society's Publications,
J.
Theodore.
Hammer,
Histoire de I'Empire Ottoman depuis son Origine jusqu'a nos jours. Ouvrage puise aux sources les plus authentiques et redi^e sur des documents et des manuscrits la plupart
(von).
inconnus en Europe.
18 vols.
Paris, 1835
(von).
1841.
Traduite de rAllemand...par
Efendi.
J. J.
Hellert.
Hammer,
J.
See
Evhya
Harby, Sir Erasmus. His Manuscript, vol. 2nd. {Ratvl. MS. A. Harleian MSS. 288. See France. Travel and Topography. See Symonds, Richard. 943. See Symonds, Richard. 1278. 2286. See Mundy, Peter.
"
414.)
6243. 6796.
k.
Harleian Miscellany, The, or a Collection of Scarce and Curious and Entertaining Pamphlets and Tracts... Found in the late Earl of Oxford's Library. Vol. V. London, 1745. Harleian Society's Publications. See Cornwall, Visitation of.
Hellert,
J. J.
See
Hammer,
J.
(von).
:
Heylyn, Peter. A Full Relation of two Journeys the one into the Mainland of France. The other into some of the adjacent Islands. Performed and digested into Six Books. London, 1656. Histoire de France, Abr^gd Chronologique de 1', sous les Regnes de Louis XIII. et Louis XIV. 2 vols. Amsterdam, 1720. Hobhouse, J. C. A Journey through Albania and other provinces of Turkey in Europe and Asia to Constantinople during the years 1809 and 1 8 10. 2 vols. London, 181 3.
^
For the complete title of Gainsford's work, see Appendix E, p. 187, note i. For the full title of Grimston 's work, see p. 25 and Appetidix E, p. 182,
240
LIST OF
ETC.
Hobson-Jobson. See Yule, Col. H., and Burnell, A. C. Holyoke, Francis. Dictionarium Etynnologicum Latinum. 1633^ Indian Antiquary, The, A Journal of Oriental Research.
1872 &c.
Irvine, William. The Army of the Indian Moghuls. London, 1903. tion and Administration.
Italy.
Its
London,
Bombay,
Organiza-
A A
J. C.
into Italy with de{Add. ATS. 34177.) scription of Turin, Milan, &c. 1661. Brief Account of the Roads of Italy for the Use of Gentlemen who travel with the Post, with a full description of the Cities, Towns, Villages and Rivers, &c. &c. London, 1775.
to
Nouveau Guide du Voyageur en Italie. Milan, 1829. true Description and Direction of what is most worthy
be seen
in all Italy.
;
;
Johnson, John Willes. The Traveller's Guide through France, Italy, and Switzerland, &c. London, 1828. Journall, A, of a Gentleman in the retinue of the Ambassador of the Levant Company who left London for Constantinople 6 Aprill
1687.
Itin^raire d'ltalie ou description des voyages par les J. V[allardi]. routes les plus fr^quentees qui conduisent aux principales villes Milan, 1819. d'ltahe.
Keane, A. H.
Kelly,
Dr
P.
Instructor.
2 vols.
2nd
London,
1835.
1830.
London, 1831.
Knolles, Richard. The General Historie of the Turkes from the first beginning of that Nation to the rising of the Othoman Familie with all the notable expeditions of the Christian Princes against them. Together with the Lives and Conquests of the Othoman Kings and Emperours. With a new continuation, from the yeare The of our Lord 1629 unto the yeare 1638 faithfully collected.
:
Fift edition.
London, 1638.
J.
de B., Countess d'Aulnoy. Relation du Voyage 2nd ed. 3 vols. La Haye, 1692. Lansdowne MS, 720. Voyage d'ltalie. (Contains an account of the travels in Italy of some very learned and intelligent Frenchmen between the years 1574 and 1578.) Lascells, Richard. An Account of the Journey of Lady Catherine Whetenal from Brussels into Italy, 1650. {Sloane MS. 4217.) Bruyn, Corneille. Voyages au Levant, c'est a dire dans les Le
La Mothe, M.
C.
d'Espagne.
principaux endroits de I'Asie Mineure, Dans les Isles de Chio, Rhodes, Chypre, &c. &c. 5 vols. Paris, 1725.
1
For a
on
p. 155.
LIST OF
ETC.
24I
LithgOW, William. The Totall Discourse of the Rare Adventures and painefull Peregrinations of long nineteene Yeares Travailes... in Europe, Asia and Affrica... London, 1632.
Long, Charles Edward.
Menzies,
See Symonds, Richard.
Sutherland. Turkey, Old and New. Historical, graphical and Statistical. 2 vols. London, 1880.
1717
Geo-
Moreri, Louis.
1718.
Amsterdam,
Moryson, Fynes. An Itinerary written First in the Latine Tongue, and then translated by him into English containing his Ten
Yeeres Travell &c.
London, 161 7.
{Rawl.
Peter. Peter.
Itinerarium Mundii.
MS.
A. 31 5 1.)
{Harl.
MS.
A Briefe Relation of Certaine Journeies and Voyages. 2286 and Add. MSS. 19278192801)
Peter. Journal of a voyage of a fleet of four ships and two pinnaces, set forth by Sir William Courteene, Knt. {Add. MS.
19281.)
Murray, James
1888 &c.
A. H.,
LL.D.
new English
Dictionary.
Oxford,
Naima.
Annals of the Turkish Empire from 1591 to 1659 of the Christian Era. Translated from the Turkish by Charles Fraser.
London, 1832.
Nichols, John.
vities of
The
vols.
Progresses, Processions, and Magnificent FestiFirst, his royal Consort and family &c.
Antiquities
1.
Nichols, John.
Leicester.
of
the
County of
Norden, John.
Osborne, T.
torical Description of
1610).
Collection of Voyages and Travels. ..relating to... Asia, Africa, America, Europe, or the Islands thereof, from the earliest account to the present time.. ..Compiled from the. ..Library London, 1745. of the late Earl of Oxford. 2 vols.
Pearson, John Batteridge. A Biographical Sketch of the Chaplains to the Levant Company, maintained at Constantinople, Aleppo and Smyrna, 161 1 1706. Cambridge, 1883.
Peck, Francis.
{Add
MS.
24121.)
London,
all
1660.
Pinkerton, John.
London, 181
18
14.
Pococke, Richard. Tour through France and Northern {Add. MS. 22978.) 1734.
^
Italy,
1733
For
See note
on
p.
and
Inti-oduciion.
M.
16
242
LIST OF
ETC.
Pinkerton's
description
of the
East.
See
PouUet, Le
Sieur. Nouvelles Relations du Levant qui contiennent diverses remarques fort curieuses....Avec une exacte description de I'Empire de Turc en Europe &c. 2 vols. Paris, 1668.
Pilgrimage
or Relation
of the World,
&c.
4 vols.
London, 1625.
The
Historie of the
World
in
Five
Rawlinson MSS.
D. D. D. D. E, B.
See Mundy, Peter. See Harby, Erasmus. See Bargrave, Robert. 120. See France. Travel and Topography. See Englefield, Sir F. 197. See Bridges, John. 207. See Abdy, Sir Thomas. 1285.
An Epitome
?].
Pharamond
thirteenth.
the
of All the Lives of the Kings of France. From first to the now most Christian King Lewis the Translated out of the French Coppy by R. B[rath1639.
wait
London,
Record
Office,
The
Public,
MSS.
at.
Archives.
Kedhouse,
J.
W.
London, 1856.
Robson, Charles.
Letter... Containing
in his
many
journey hither.
Sanderson, John.
The Voyage
Sandys, George. A Relation of a Journey begun An: Dom: 1610.... Containing a description of the Turkish Empire, &c. London. 7th ed. 1673^ 1st ed. 1615.
Schefer, Charles.
description of Picardy, the isle of France, and La Beauce, S. D. being the particuler observations of S. D., 1675. {Siowe MS. 916.)
{i.e.
Jean Zinzerling).
See
Du
Verdier.
Sloane MSS.
See Bell, Richard. See France. Travel. 2142. See Lascells, Richard. 4217.
811.
Smyth, W.
Spain.
H., Admiral.
The
Sailors'
Word
Book.
London, 1867.
at.
and La Mothe, M.
C.
J.
de B.
Stampes, Mr.
{Stowe
^
MS.
on
p.
For the full titles of the ist and 7th editions of Sandys' work, see note 6 26 and note 3 on p. 192.
LIST OF
ETC.
243
Levant Company.
Turkey.
survey of the cities of London and Westminster... Stow, John. brought down from the year 1633. ..to the present time by
J.
Strype.
2 vols.
180.
London, 1720.
Stowe MSS.
Struys, John.
covy,
gi6.
Voyages and Travels, Through Italy, Greece, MusTartary, Media, Persia, East India, Japan, and other Done out of Countries in Europe, Africa and Asia, &c. &c. Dutch, By John Morrison. London, 1684.
Travels in France and
Italy.
{Harl.
MSS.
943
Symonds, Richard.
the great Civil
Symonds.
Tavernier,
Diary of the Marches of the Royal Army during Edited from the Note-Books of Richard By Chas. Edward Long. London, 1859. (Camden
War.
Society's Publications.)
Collections of Travels Through Turkey into Persia, J. B. and the East-Indies, Giving an Account of the Present State of those Countries... Together With a Relation of the Kingdom of Japan and Tunkin...A New Description of the Grand Seignior's Seraglio... Being the Travels of Monsieur Tavernier, Bernier and London, 1684. other great Men. 2 vols.
London, 1799.
Thevenot, Monsieur
Parts, viz. Into London, 1687.
de.
I.
The Travels
Turkey.
In Three into the Levant. III. The East Indies. II. Persia.
of,
Tierney,
Mark Aloysius. The History and Antiquities of the Castle and Town of Arundel, including the biography of its Earls, from London, 1834. the Conquest to the present time.
1873.
The issues of 28th Jan. and 20th (For Garraway's Coffee House.)
Collections for the History of Cornwall.
March
{Add.
MS.
33420-)
:
Tournefort, N. A Voyage into the Levant Perform'd by Command Containing the Antient and modern of the Late French King. State of the Islands of the Archipelago as also of Constantinople, 2 vols. the Coasts of the Black Sea, Armenia, Georgia, &c. &c.
;
London, 171 8.
Wadmore,
Some Account of the Worshipful Jas. Foster. London, 1902. of Skinners of London.
Company
Wilkinson, Journey
Dalmatia and Montenegro: with Sir J. Gardner. to Mostar in Herzegovina and Remarks on the Slavonic London, 1848. Nations, &c. &c.
For the
I.
full titles
of Harl.
MSS.
p. 217,
note
16
244
LIST OF
ETC.
Wyche
Family, The. Notes on. See Peck, F. {Add. MS. 24 121.) Inventory of the Estate of Richard Wyche. See Harby, Sir Erasmus. {Rawl. MS. A. 414.)
Charles.
1878.
Yriarte,
Paris,
Les
Bords
de I'Adriatique
et
le
Montenegro.
Yriarte, Charles.
Paris, 1878.
Venise.
Yule, Col. Henry, and Burnell, A. C. Hobson-Jobson. of Colloquial Anglo-Indian Words and Phrases.
Glossary
New
ed.
London,
1903.
Zinzerling, Jean.
See
Du
Verdier.
; ;
INDEX.
Abbeville, Pindar's party lialt at, description xlviii, 132, 220 n. 3;
of,
131
;?.
6,
pistols
at,
made
at,
Add. MS. 27332, referred to, 93 71. 3 Add. MS. 33420, contains extracts from Mundy's MS., Ixii Add. MS. 34177 (Journey over Mt.
Add. MSS.
108 n. 5 contain copies of Mundy's voyages to India and China, Ixi
Cenis), referred to,
220
;
19278
19281,
from Constantinople,
44, 45
Adige,
river,
floating mills
on
the,
47 n.
72 n. 4
Abbot, George, Archbishop of Canterbury, succeeds Bancroft, 136 11. i Abbot, Sir Morris, owner of the Rovall Merchant, xxiii, 15 n. i,
166, 167
xxiii
11.
;
halt at,
to,
4,
Governor of
the
East
5
member
42 n.
AbduUa Ckhaun
Abdy, Anthony, Abdy,
member
of the
Levant Company, 42 ;/. 5 Sir Thomas, Roger Vivian accompanies, on the Continent,
xxiii
11.
MS.
126
D. 1285) referred
. 3
117 n.
6,
the Asiatic side of the Dardanelles, 157, 157 . 2, 197, 198 Account of the Roads of Italy referred to, 99 n. 3, loi n. 4, 106 n. 4 Achin, a factory settled at, 9;
XXX, 49, 49 n. i,; a guard accompanies Pindar from Constantinople to, xxxiii the Grand Signior's description of house at, xxx, 49 the road from Constantinople to, 45 n. 6, 46 n. 2, 48 71. 4, 184, 212, 215, 216; Mundy's and other descriptions of, 49, 49 n. 4, 156, 211 description of the road to Philippopolis from, 60 other names for, by whom built and 155, 156, 211 repaired, 155 Adriatic Sea, xli, 147 ; marriage of the Doge of Venice to the, 95, 96 n. I Adventure, the, 169 Agha. See Kdpi dgha Agra, capital of Hindustan, 4, 10 removal of the Court from, 4 n. 3 Mundy journeys to, 7, 8, 10; Shah description Jahan's entry into, 8
;
;
of,
Ahmad
visits to,
See
Chiswell,
See Pococke, 22978. Travels of Add. MS. 24121 (Peck's notes on the Wyche family), referred to, 158
n. 3
of Turkey, imL, prisons A. Garraway, 14 n. 11 ; grandson of Sulaiman I., 195 ; his sons, 22 n. i; appoints Mustafa his successor, 22 . i ; Mundy sees, 32, 33 ; his mosque at Constantinople, 33 n. I, 35 n. 4; portents at close of his reign, 39 n. 4; Cossack raids
Sultan
in his reign, 63 n.
i ;
his treatment
of the English, 177; number of his "virgins," 198; death of, xxiv, 21, 22 71. I, 178
246
INDEX
Amphitheatre,
Verona, Mundy's 102; Sandys' lix, 102, 103 ; of, 103 n. 4 Amsterdam, Mundy's voyage to, 9 Amurath IV. See Murad IV. Amusements. See Pastimes Anatolia, governor of, 62 w. 2 Ancre, Marechal d', murder of, Iv, 129, 129 n. i; his house in Paris, 129 7t. I, 225
at
Andalusia, fertility of, xxii Angel, The, inn at Sian, xliv, 109
Angerville,
xlvii,
Pindar's
party
reach,
Ak
123, 123 ;z. 6; road from Paris to, described, xlvii, 124 Antigonus, battle between Eumenes
and, 154
71.
Antoninus, column
196
of,
at
Rome,
Appendix, Mundy's, to his MS., 10; Mundy's, when added, lix, 10 n. 1 Apsley, Sir Allen, recommends
Lawrence Spike, 42
w.
i
Alcazar,
Aqua
age
;
dulce.
See
Fresh Waters,
19 n. 2, 55,
210
III.,
Alexander
Pope, inaugurates the ceremony of the marriage of the Adriatic, 96 n. i Alexandretta. See Scanderoon
repaired bySulaiman
of,
I.,
195
Alexandria,
217
11.
I
Symonds
travels
to,
Arabia, map
6 n.
I,
in
Mundy's MS.,
30 n. 2
Algarve, province,
Algiers, 45 n. 3 Aliaga, confessor
intrigues
xxii, xxii n. 5
to
against
Lerma, 140 n. 2 Alicante, Mundy touches at, 15 Ali Sultan Khalifeh. See Biiriin
why
so called, 115 . 3
Kasim
Alleppo Merchmit, the,
his third
xlii, lix,
Mundy makes
in,
2,
196 n. 2
travels to,
20,
6,
voyage to India
10, 103,
xvi,
Archangel, Mundy's
II
167,
xlv,
214
Ambassadors,
Iv,
in
Constantinople,
Amboise, George
ster of
14 n. II, 22 n. I, 35 n. 2, 36, 36 n. 3, 37, 41, 41 n. 3, 43, 45 n. 6, 47 n. 3, 64, 65, 175, 180, 191, 196, 214; in Venice, xli, 93, 108 n. 6, 126, 126 n. 2 in Turin, xliv, 109 in England, 92 ;z. 3
;
25,
185
;
43,
43 n. 4
the poorer class of, with Bulgarians, xxxvi, 76 ; their spoliation of the Cordeliers, 199
;
71.
Arpajon
Rouen named
after,
America, 6
(Chatres), road from Paris to, populous, xlvii, 124; Pindar's party lodge at, xlvii, 124; situation of, 123 ti. 6, 124 n. 2 ; when so named, 124 n. 2
INDEX
Arsenal,
at
247
See Bayazld
Venice,
the,
Mundy's
Bajazet.
description of, xli, 93-97 ; other descriptions of, 93 n. 5, 94 n. i, how guarded, 96 95 n. I, 97 n. I Artenay, Mundy's party pass through, xlvii, 123, 123 n. 6
;
Balkan, mountains,
xxxi, 61 ; robbers lurk among the passes of, 61 n. 3; separate Bulgaria from Roumania, 209 ; other names for, 209
the,
Baltic Sea,
9. II
Mundy's voyage
to,
of,
100, 100
of audience, at Constantinople, 36 ; by whom erected, 36 n. I ; Tavernier's description of, 36 n. I Ascension Day, ceremonies in Venice on, xli, 95, 95 n. 3, 96 ;. i
Arz-oda, Hall
Banairaca, river, 204 Bancroft, Archbishop of Canterbury, succeeded by Abbot, 136 . i Bantam, East India Company's
factory at,
162
ft.
i
Barbary Corsairs,
ranean, 16
fi.
in the Mediter-
Asia, map of, in Mundy's MS., 6 n. I the Hellespont divides, from Europe, 197
;
7,
171
at,
Asper,
81, 177, 186 ; value of an, 27, 81 n. 7 At-maidan, the, at Constantinople, 32, 34 n. I ; Sanderson's descrip-
aspero,
aspre,
77
n. 2,
Bargrave,
bury,
32
215 n.
195;
Paris,
name
for,
195
in
Augustins, Convent
125
71.
of,
Voyages and C. 799) referred to, see notes on pp. 48, 55, 56, 89, 90, 91, 96, 99, 137 ; extracts from his Voyages andjmirneys, 215, 216; son of Isaac Bargrave, 215 n. 2 Barnes, Sir Thomas, 49 n. 3
Bargrave, Robert,
Journeys (Rawl.
his
MS.
Augustus Caesar
(Octavius),
be-
Barton,
the
Sir
Edward, ambassador
Signior,
his
to
sieges Salona, 147 n. 3 ; defeats Brutus and Cassius, 153, 154 n. i Austria, 68 n. 4, 201 ; Duchy of
Grand
;
journey
to,
105 n. 8;
contends
from Constantinople to Belgrade, first resident ambassador 47 n. 3 at Constantinople for the Levant
Company,
171
See La Verpilliere Avigliana, Pindar's party lodge at, xliv, III; castle at, 1 1 1, 1 1 1 . 5 ; description of, in n. 4; siege of,
Avertpiller.
by
of
the, the,
21
at
of
233
Avret Bazar,
29, 34,
the, at Constantinople,
;
for what 190, 194 used, 34 n. i, 34 n. 2, 196 n. i ; the Historical Column in, 196 Ayachapezi, the holy gate, 185
186,
goes to, xxii, 24; situation of, xxii, 14 . 4; and oil exported from, xxiii Ayasophia. See S. Sophia
Ayamonte, Mundy
14, figs
Constantinople, 186, 188, 189; houses of the, at Pera, 191 Basing House, Mundy's visit to, xvi Bassano(Giacomo da Ponte), picture by, in the Louvre, 225 Bastille, the, 224 Batachin. See Batotschina Baths, at Constantinople, 29, 37, 37 n. 1, 184, 190; Mundy's remarks
53, 54 53 n. 2 at Belgrade, xxxv, 73, 74; at Sophia, 152 Batotschina, Pindar's party dine at, xxix, xxxiv, 71; other spellings of the name, 71 n. i ; palangha at, 7 1 . I ; robbers in the neighbourhood of, 7 1 . I Des Hayes dines
; ;
Iv,
Babaeskeesee.
See Eski
of,
Baba
of,
Baden
Badgers,
Treaty
in
effect
on
Milan, 105 . 8
England,
B air am,
amusements
5 at the feast of
observance of the, 58
at,
203
248
Battacala (Bhatkal), settlement
factory at, 9
INDEX
of
4, 149, 201, 201 71. i; Pindar hires a house at, xxxvi, 72 floating mills at, xxxv, xlvi, 72, 72 7Z. 4, 149, I .so;?, i; Blount's remarks on,
71.
;
Baudier, Michel, of Languedoc, his work translated by Grimston, 25, 183 n. 2 full title and contents of his work, 183 n. 1; born in Languedoc, 183 . 2. See also Grim;
ston,
Edward
II.,
Bavaria, 201
Bayazid
mosque
of,
at
Con-
35 7t. 4 ; enlarges the Top-khdna, 39 tz. 1 ; size of S. Sophia in the time of, 194 defeats Selim at Chorlu, 212 Bayonne, Muridy stays a year at,
stantinople,
;
24; Mundy's second 71. 5, 138, 139 Ji. 3, 145; Mundy's remarks on, xx costume of the inhabitants of, described, XX expulsion of the English from, XX Bazistdns, markets, at Constantinople,
XV, xvii,
visit to,
13,
116
I, 149; PouUet's description abundance of fish at, 72 71. I xxxv, 73, 73 71. I, 200; buildings at, xxxv, 73, 200, 200 71. 3; castle and fortress at, xxxv, 74, 74 ;z. i, 74 w. 2, 149, 150, 151, 200; Busbequius' description of, 74 7Z. i ferry-boats at, xxxv, 75 boats at, for transport of salt, 75; ordnance at, xxxv, 75, 200; Pindar hires horses at, xxxvi, 75, 81; governor of, 75, 201 Pindar's party leave, xxxvi, 78, 201 . 3; Poullet's remarks on the road from, to Sarajevo, 80 7z. 5 ; time occupied in the journey between Valjevo and, 149, 149 7t. 3; ancient names of, 149,
72
71.
of,
189, 190, 194 ; Mundy's description of, Iv, 53, 54; various descriptions of, at at Belgrade, xxxv, 73 53 n. I
29) 37> 37
'
; ;
3- 185- 186,
Adrianople, 211
199; graveyard at, 149; Zindana tower at, 151; Des Hayes' description of, 199, 200, 2ot; route taken by Des Hayes to Constantinople from, 199 7i. 1 compared with Constantinople, 199; inhabitants
;
Beamond, Farnam,
dar's train,
travels in Pin41; leaves Pindar at the Fresh Waters, 44 ; overtakes Pindar at Chorlu, 48 Beaulieu, on the Loire, 227
Beaumont, Mundy's
;
description of, xlviii, 131 situation of, 131 n. 3, 222; Symonds' description of, 222 distance between Paris and, 222, 222 71. 2 character of the country
; ;
xxxv, Iv, 201 ; description of the country around, 200 stations of the Orient Express between Constantinople and, xxviii, xxix time occupied in the journey from Constantinople to, xxix, xxxv, xxxvii Bell, Richard, his Joiir7ial {Sloa/ie MS. 811) referred to, 15 . 7, 16
of,
; ;
surrounding, 222
at,
131
221, 222 ; surrounding, 221 ; situation of, compared with Salisbury, 221 Beglerbeg (begler-begi) Bey of Beys, of Rumelia, 62, 62 n. 2, 152, 208, 2 r I ; sends a guard to Pindar, 66, 208 of Buda, transferred from Belgrade to, 20I Bela Palanka (Musa Palanka, Ak Palanka), Pindar's party re-inforced at, xxix, xxxiv, 68, 69; other names for, 68 71. r, 205 ; Des Hayes halts at, 205 Belgrade, arrival of Pindar's party at, xxxv, 1, 43 n. 4, 72; waggons hired from Constantinople to, xxxvi, 44 ; post road from Constantinople to, xxviii, xxix, xxx, 45 7i. 6, 214; forests of, 48 . 3 taken by Sulaiman the Magnificent, 52 n. i, 74
,
2, 17 . 2, 17 ;z. 3; confined in the lazaretto at Leghorn, 17 ;. 2 Belonius, his estimate of the number of doors in S. Sophia, 194 Bengal, 7, 10 Bergasse. See Lule Burgas Bernay, Pindar's party dine at, xlviii, 132; Symonds halts at, 220, 220 71. I ; description of the country
71.
around, 220 Berry, province, 227, 228 Bessarabia, a portion Bugdamia, 51 11. 1
of,
called
Bey
of Beys. See Beglerbeg Beziers, in Languedoc, Des Hayes beheaded at, 199 7i. 2 Biscay, province of, 138, 139, 139
7t.
2,
139
71.
3,
142
71.
Biscina, ambassador at Venice from Savoy, 93 77. 4 Bishopsgate Street Without, Pindar's house in, 1, 136 7i. 3 Bithynia, 197
party en46,
47
INDEX
bridge at, xxx, 46, 46 . 4, 215; other names for, 46 n. 4, 47 n. 3, 73 . 4, 164, 213; Sulaiman rebuilds the bridge at, 195 ; Des Hayes dines at, 213
for,
249
reach the, xxxix, 84; other names
84
n.
Bosna,
Bosna
Serai.
at
S.
Jean de Maurienne, 115 Black Notley, Richard Symonds born at, 217 n. i, 218 n. 5 Black Sea, the, xxv, xxxiii, 20, 24,
27, 47 n. 4, 62, 149, 183, 187, 191, 195, 202 ; extent of, near Pompey's
Pillar,
Sarajevo of, 81 . 6 the capital of, 148, 148 n- 1 Bosnians, quarrel between the Venetians and, xxxvii, xxxviii, 81, 81 n. 6 Bosphorus, the, 183, 193, 194 ; extent of, 197 ; castle on the shore of,
;
Bosnia, pasha
of,
197
197
Boulogne,
on the shore of
to
xlviii,
Black Tower,
132
8,
the Bosphorus,
197
132
n.
219;
country around,
Pindar's
IsHngton, xlix, 136 his Reisen in Bosnien referred to, 80 n. 4 Blount, Henry, his Voyage into the Levant referred to, see notes on
Bourg-la-Reine,
reach,
xlvii,
party
Blau, Otto,
124;
Mundy's
and
Coryat's names for, 124, 124 n. 5 Bourgoin, Pindar's party dine at, xlvi, 118; called Bolognie by Sy-
pp. 21, 26, 47, 48, 49, 53, 54, 61, 62, 63, 69, 71, 72, 74, 78, 79, 86, 88 ; his route to Constantinople, 45
monds,
49 n. 4, 146 w. 3 ; Mundy quotes from his work, Ivi, 11 n. i, 146-157 full title and contents of his work, 146, 146 n. 2, 146 . 5 account of, 146 n. 4 Boar, wild, flesh of, palatable, 20
n.
6,
;
Bramant,
party lodge
8
at,
"5
Brampore (Burhanpur),
;
the,
Boats,
at
Belgrade, xxxv, 75
hired,
country houses on
of,
at,
from Calais to Dover, 134, 134 hired, from Gravesend to n. 1 Blackwall, xlix, 136; hired from
;
xliii,
104
;
other
descriptions
at,
of,
Roanne
228
Roanne, 228
Bodmin
bequius
Bonny,
Pindar's party pass, 121, 121 n. 6, 122 7t. 1; a. walled town, 227; description of the country from Briare to, 227 Bordeaux, 1 16 it. 5 Mundy passes through, 116 ;?. 5, 139 Bore, on the Seine, Mundy's description of, xix Boromeo, Carolus, Cardinal of Milan, canonized, 106, 106 n. 7 buried in the Duomo, Iv, 106, 107 ; description of his tomb, xliii, 106 ;/. 107; Lithgow's opinion of, 7, 106 n. 7 Borovaglava, plateau, Pindar's party
;
104 n. 3 ; subject to the Venetians, 104 . 3 situation of, 104 ;/. 4 Brett, Sir Alexander, testifies to the efficiency of Francis Lowe, 45 n. 3 Briare, Pindar's party pass, 121, 121 n. 8, 122 n. i; barrenness of the country around, 227 Brioni, L, Pindar's party sail past, xl, 89, 89 n. 3 Brissac, Louis XHI. reconciled with Marie de Medici at, 128 n. 4 British Museum, the, copies of portions of Mundy's voyages at, 104 n. 3
Iviii,
arms made
Ix,
Ixi
visit
to,
lii,
Brittany, Mundy's
143,
Bucentaur, Mundy's
96
;
Buckingham, Marquis
mends
Sir
John Eyre
to the
250
nee,
INDEX
from Dover to, 218 ; cost of passage from Dover to, 218; description of the country round, 219; Symonds'
expenses to Paris from, 222, 223; "walks" in, compared with those at Turin, 234 Calendar of State Papers, Colonial
i8o, i8i ; his influence in Gainsford's Eyre's favour, 182; book dedicated to, 187 11. i Buda, xxxiii, 65, 85 . 4, 150 n. i, 201, 204;
Bdshd
of,
75
51
;
Bugdamia
trict
dis-
designated by, 51 . 1 Bulgaria, 61, 62 n. i, 69 n. 5, 77 n. 2, 151, 201, 214; how separated from Servia, 204, 209; compared with Servia, 206 Christian popu;
Bulgarians, xxxvi 43
of the,
Iv, 76, 77,
n. 4
costumes
207, 216
;
East Indies, referred to, 15 n. 2, 23 n. 4, 168 Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, referred to, see notes on pp. 13, 42, 44, 45, 92, 139, 161, 168, 182 Calvaire, Mount, nunnery in Paris,
Series,
77 n.
i,
226
the, 76, 77, 77 n. r; food of, 77, 77 n. 2, 206, 207 ; dances of, 77, 78; language of, 78, 78 n. I, 207, 207 fi. I, 216 Bull-fights, at Valladolid, 141
ornaments of
the
Camburgas.
See
Kumburgas
Camden
n.
I
Burgas.
Burnt Column,
the, 34, 34 n. 3, 35; description of, 35 . 2; erected by Constantine the Great, 196, 196 n. 3; relics beneath, 196 n. 3
Society, Publications of the, Symonds' Diary of the Marches of the Royal Army, referred to, 217
confined
in
2
the
from
Leghorn, 17 .
to the
;
Grand
Signior,
Campi
Fields
Philippici.
in Venice,
See Philippick
his reception at 65 n. I Constantinople, 65 Busbequius, A. G. (Boesbec, Auger Ghislin), his Travels into Turkey 65,
Canals, Candia,
98
referred to, see notes on pp. 21, 34, 35) 51, 52, 54' 60, 62, 68, 69, 70,
72, 73. 74. 77, 78
a house at Venice of the Governor of, 91; taken from Venice by the Turks,
Pindar
hires
91 n. 6
Candyssh, Thomas,
at,
his portrait in
Byzantium.
Mundy's MS., 11 n. i Cannaregio, xli, 91, 91 . 3 Canterbury, Pindar's party lodge at, Mundy's description of xlix, 135
;
the cathedral and city of, xlix, 135; Symonds posts to Dover from, 218
Cadiz, Mundy's voyage to, 14, 24 Cadiz, the Bay of, 14 n. i Caesar, Julius, his engagement with
Canterbury, Archbishop of, Pindar entertained by the, xlix, 136 Canton, river, 9
Capello, Girolamo, Candia, 91 n. 6
governor
of
Pompey, 153, 154, 154 iz. i Caique, a boat, 28, 38 n. 2 Cairo, Osman's intended removal to, 22 n. r Blount's voyage to, 146,
;
Cape Merchant
10
(supracargo), 8
a, 8,
157 n. 4
Calabria,
Sicily,
Duke
of,
r
son of Rene of
Capi Agha.
has hi
See
Kdpi agha
See Kapiji-
no
n.
Capoochee Bashee.
party lodge
131 n. 6; Pindar's 133; description of, xlviii, 133, 133 ti. 3; fortifications of, xlviii, 133, 133 n. 3, 133 n. 7; churches at, xlviii, 133, 133 n. 5 ; Pindar's departure from, delayed, xlviii, 134; mole at, 134; Pindar's party cross to Dover from, xlviii, xlix, 134, 136; packet-boat service
xlviii,
130,
at,
Cappee Keoy.
Caramoussal,
See Kapuli
CaraCarmousal, mussale, a Turkish merchantman, 38 n. 3 Caratch, a poll-tax at Constantinople, by whom paid, 26, 186
at Vercelli,
See Karistran
INDEX
Caroches,
nition of,
1-29 n.
251
100
11.
Carpathian, mountains, 68 n. 4 Cassanpasha Palanca. See Hassan Pasha's Palanka Cassius, defeat of, 154, 154 n. i
Castello,
Vincentio, a Greek, a member of Pindar's train, 43 left at Paris to wait on Dominico,
;
2, 117 n. 5, 117 n. 6, 230; language of the inhabitants of, 230 Champion country, open ground, xxx, 50 u. 2, 60, 60 n. I, 153, 220, 222 Change Alley, Garraway's CofTee
n.
House
228
in,
Chapeau Rouge,
14 . 11 Le,
.
at
Roanne,
130, 130 ;/. 4 Castile, 139, 139 n. 3 Castleman, Richard, travels in Pinxlviii,
42
71.
5,
dar's train,
41
made
free . 8
of the
Levant Company, 41
visit to,
14;
and
exported from,
xxiii
Catch,
a,
dar's party, xlviii, xlix, 134; definition of, 134 n. I Cathedrals, at Seville, xxi; at Milan, xliii, 106, 107 ; at Paris, see Notre
John, provisional amtill bassador at Constantinople Roe's arrival, 41 . 3, 181 Chardin, Sir John, his account of the Levant Co. quoted, 172-174 Charles I. of England, Peter Wyche George sent to Spain by, 163 Sandys, a gentleman of the Court of, 192 71. 3 Charles V., Emperor, 105 7t. 8; improves Valladolid, 140 ti. i Charles VI., of France, Pont S. Michel built in the reign of, 125
;
Chapman,
w.
Charles
Dame;
Charles
n.
5
at
Catherine,
Emanuel I., Duke of Savoy, 109, 109 71. 4; family of, no, no 71. 5, iro . 6; his five sons, no, no ;?. 6; meets Pindar on Mt. Cenis, 113; his heir, 116
;/.
19 n. 2 Cavalcaselle, Pindar's party reach, xlii, 103; distance of, from Venice, 103, 103 n. 7 Cavaletta, the, inn at Verona, xlii, loi, loi n. 5 Cayalucke. See Kialik Caymalcam. See Kd^inmakan Cenis, mt., 112 11. i, 112 n. 2; Gainsford's description of, 112 . 3, 113 n. 5; Mundy's account of the crossing of, xlv, 113, 114; Lake at the top of, xlv, 113, 113 . 2, 233 ; house built for Christine of France on, xlv, 113; height of, xlv, 113, 113 n. 1; descent of, xlv, 113 n. 2, 114 n. I, 148, 232, 233; inns in the district of, poor, 1x5 n. 6 Certificates, of efficiency, from Pindar to his escort, xxxiv, 69; of health, xl, xli, 88, 90, 230, 233,
234>
Caucasus, mountains,
Mr, Anne marries Wyche, 164 Chatal-Burgas. See Lule Burgas Chateauneuf-sur-Loire, Pindar's
Charleton,
Chatham,
Chatres.
Chazvush.,
train,
7i.
Arpajon
overtakes
;
taken by Pindar, xxxiv, 70 Chelmsford, Mundy passes through, 143; spelling of the name, 143
71.
Chequeen.
135;
71.
Chequers, The,
2
Cherries,
78
Cherso,
88
n.
I.,
88 n.
5,
88 .
6,
235
de,
Cesy, Monsieur
n.
I
French ambas-
Janissaries,
2
to,
Iviii,
Cettina, river, 84 n. i, 84 Ji. 7, 85 n. I, 8^ n. 4.; Pindar's party cross the, xxxix, 85 Chambery, Pindar's attendants lodge at, xlv, ri6, 117; description of, xlv, 116 7Z. 4, 116 . 6, 117, 117
i,
71.
I,
6,
8,
9,
II
ChishuU,
;;;
252
Chiswell, Richard,
INDEX
the Historical, 34, 34 n. 2, 195 196; the Burnt, 34, 35, 35 . 2, 196, 196 . 3 Constance, Thomas, joins Pindar's train at Padua, 10 1 Constantine the Great, 29, 32 n. i, 34 n. 2, 35 71. 2, 184 3.^ '' 2, builds and enriches Constantinople, 189, 192, 193; sets up the Burnt Column, 196 . 3; banner of, xxi
;
his Travels {Add. 10623) referred to, see notes on pp. 89, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99 Chivasso, Pindar's party lodge at, xliv, 109 Chorlu, Pindar's paity arrive at, xxviii, XXX, 47, 47 . 4; Poullet's description of, 47 . 4; other spellings of, 47 n. 4; three of Pindar's train rejoin at, 48 Blount passes through, 156; site of a battle be-
MS.
71.
tween Selim
212
;
I.
and Bayazid
;
II.,
Constantine's Column.
lumns, the Burnt
See Co-
Bargrave's description of the country around, 215, 216 Christine, of France, marries the Prince of Piedmont, xlv, no, no
tortoises at, 212
n. 4,
37.
190,
196; descriptions
of,
37 6
Constantinople,
to,
Mundy's
3, 7,
voyage
14-21,
to
10,
7,
113,
234,
234 n. 4
at Beauvais,
XV, xxiii,
liii,
10,
Christopher, The,
Churchman,
24;
London from,
41-136
events at, during Mundy's time, xxiv, xxv, Iv, 21, 22, 23; Mundy's remarks on, xxiv, xxv, xxvi, 25, 30-40; Sandys' description of, 21, 26,
ferred to, 44 n. 4, 46
2,
46 n.
4,
192-198
Grimston's
47
11.
3,
Pindar's
train,
42,
xl,
43
released
description of, 25, 26, 183-186 Gainsford's description of, 27-30, various descriptions of, 187-192 21 7i. t; earthquakes, fires, and plague at, xxiv, xxv, 39, 40, 190,
;
from quarantine,
91
192; ambassadors at, xxvi, Iv, 23, 36, 41, 64, 65, 175-182, 196, 214; route to Belgrade from, xxxvii, 45
7z.
Clissa
Castle, situation of, xxxix, 85, 85 n. 4, 85 w. 5; history of, 85 n. 4; taken from the Venetians by the Turks, 148 strength
(Kllsh),
;
6,
46
71.
2,
48
71.
4,
60,
199-
214, 215; English merchants at, 22, 44, 164, 176, 177; compared with London, 188, 191, 192 Constantinople, river of. See
remarks
74
to
Dardanelles
Co7itii7iiacia, certificate of,
;
on, 74;
n. 3
granted to
;
Coaches,
hired,
from
Orleans
Paris, xlvii, 123; hired, from Paris to Calais, xlviii, 130; convey Pin-
Coins.
;
See
;
s.v.
Asper
;
Crown
the Earl
i
Far la^ to Pindar's party, 88, 90 perform quarantine, 88 71. 1 Bargrave's allusion to, 90 7i. i Copper, contract of Richard Wyche and others for, xvi, 1, li, 138, 139, 139 71.6, 161 ; suit at Valladolid regarding, 139 Coprian, Signor, travels in Pindar's
train, 42 Cordeliers, the,
Des
Hayes
for,
sent
to
to,
obtain
2
restitution
199
by
71.
Richard Wyche, li, 143, 145 Cole, Mundy's journey from Agra
to,
7
Ivii,
Ixi,
7i.
5,
13,
143;
trade
the,
at
Colossus,
196
Constantinople,
pilchards and tin, xvii Mundy's description of, lix, Ixii compared with the country round
of, in
Columns,
;
Constantinople, the at Serpent, 33, 33 n. i, 185, 195, 195 n. 4 the Egyptian, 33, 33 n. 2,
Corpus
of,
141
INDEX
Coryat, Thomas,
his Crudities referred to, see notes on pp. 90, 91, 92, 95, 97, 98, 99, 100, loi, 102, 103, 104, 106, 107, 108, 109, III, 113, 114, 115, 117, ii8, 119, 121, 124, 125, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131,
^S'^i
253
Dalmatia,
81 n. 6; Pindar's party pass the shores of, xl, 88 ; Blount's, voyage to, 146, 147
n.
i
Dalmatian Alps, 84
9,,
133!
1^'s
style
compared with
pass, i2t,
\t,\
Danube,
Mundy's,
n.
I,
Ivii
river, 71, 71 ;/. 5, 71 n. 6 74, 74 w. I, 75 ; abundance of fish in the, xxxv, 73, 200 ; other names
121 n. 4, 122 It. I ; Symonds' description of, 227 Cossacks, their depredations, xxxiii,
62, 63, 6^ n.
I
the,
Cotroman,
builds the castle at Sarajevo, xxxviii, 8r . 4 Coulon, Le Sieur, his Fidele Condiicteur pour le Voyage de France
referred to, see notes on pp. 121, 122, 125, 126, 127, 130, 131, 132, 133 ; his Fidele Condiicteiir pour Voyage d'' Espagne referred to, le 145 n. 6 ; his Rivieres de France referred to, see notes on pp. 117,
water mills on 149, 150, 150 n. I the, 72, 73, 149; clearness of the water of the, 150, 150 n. 2 ; how
remarks on Dardanelles,
20a ; Des Hayes* 200, 20 1, 202 The (river of Constantinople), 20 n. 2, 20 n. 3; width of, 197; castle on the shores
far
navigable,
the,
of,
197
Dardanelli,
nople,
Issus,
castles,
Courten
lix,
;
118, 120, 122, 131, 144 (Curteene), Sir William, Mundy takes service under, xvi,
157,
157 n. 2
Persia, defeated
in
2
Darius, King of
19 n.
sends a fleet to India and 8 China, 8 Court Minutes of the East India Co., referred to, lii, 145 n. i, 159 n. 3, 160 n. 4 Courtney, J. S., his Guide to Penzance referred
to,
Ixii
Davis,
Cary,
;
travels
Pindar's,
train, 41
leaves Pindar at
;
Kuchuk
Mundy
124
to the Louvre,
etc.,
xlvii,
Covel, Dr John, his Diary referred to, see Early Voyages in the Levant; his route from Constantinople, 45
n. 6
Henry, Mundy travels toSpain with, 1, 138, 138 n. 3; delivers letters to the Levant Company, 138 n. 3 Davis, Captain John, Mundy serves,,
Davis,
Crema,
xliii,
Crown, The, at Pont Reray, xlviii, 131 Crowns, coins, value of, 130, 228 Cunny, John, a member of Pindar's
train,
perhaps the recusant, son of Wm^ Davis, 13 w. 5 Davis, Captain John, of Limehouse a servant of the East India Company, 13 . 5 Davis, Captain John, of Sandridge^
explorer,
13 w. 5
43
in, 159,
161
See Qiirut Chesme the, in London, situation of, 59 n. i burned down, 59 n. I ; rebuilt, 59 n. i Custom House Quay, 38, 59, 59 n. I Cydarius, river, 44 n. 4, 195
;
Deccan,
the, 8
228 n. 5
description of,
Czabaoz,
the
120, 120 n. 6
Deems,
train,
John,
43
member
of Pindar's
Dallam, Thomas,
to.
; ;
254
Delia Valle,
INDEX
Dominico,
man, 42
Signer, Pindar's dragoa Greek, 42 n. 5 ; taken ill in Paris, xlviii, 42 n. 5, 130 j recommended to the Levant Co. appointed by Pindar, 42 71. 5 secretary to Sir John Eyre, 42 . 5 his services refused by Eyre, 42 71. 5 ; writes a certificate for Pin;
;
Pietro, his Voyages referred to, see notes on pp. 20, 21, 23. 3i> 32, 33. 37> 38, 39' 40' 53. 63> 64, 75
the Column of Serpents brought from, 195 ?. 4 Delrosse, Jacques, builds the Luxem-
Delphi,
bourg, 126 n. 3
Denia,
Marquis
of.
See
travels
to,
Lerma,
in,
Jt.
dar's escort, 69
Cardinal
Duke
of
i
;
Domuz-dere,
199
2
a village, 195
Denmark, Mundy's
Des Hayes' mission
Derbend, pass, 61
n.
233 n. 5
at,
xxii
2
to, xlviii,
Des Hayes,
XHI., 199
memin, holds
under Louis
. 2; his mission to the East, 199 11. 2 ; his route from Belgrade to Constantinople, xxxi, 45
6, 199 n. I, 214; his escort from Nisch to Adrianople, 67 n. 2 his remarks on the current of the Danube, 150 n. i returns to France, 199 ?i. 2 sent on other missions, 199 n. 2 ; arrest and
Ti.
; ; ;
and
218
134, 134 71. 4, 136; harbour pier at, 134, 134 71. 5, 218,
71.
3;
halts
inns
at,
;
at,
134,
218;
Mundy
execution of, 199 n. 2; full title of his Voiage de Levant, igg; editions of his work, 199 n. 3; extracts
from
pp.
to,
his
Voiage, see
Appendix F,
199-216; his Voiage referred see notes on pp. 43, 46, 47, 49,
Diana,
69, 70, 71, 72, 73. 74, 75 statue of, in the Louvre, 126, 127, 127 . I
Spain, 1, 138 from, to Turin, 217-235 Dowlany Hills, Pindar's party ascend the, 83, 84 what heights intended by, 83 71. 5 steepness of the, 83, 83 71. 6 Downing, Captain Joshua, commander of the Royall Merchant, xxiii, 14, 167, 168; account of, 14 n. 10, 168-170; inspector of cordinspector age at Woolwich, 168 comat Chatliam dockyard, 169 missioner of the Fleet at Ports" Notes on the mouth, 169 his Navy," 169; unpopularity of, 169; applies for his overworked, 169
; ;
;
discharge,
of,
169
illness
and death
Dieppe, Mundy
1,
crosses
from Dover
139
116 n.
5,
138, 138 n. 4,
170; last 170 Downing, Joshua, son of Captain Joshua Downing, 170 Downing, Martha, daughter of Joshua Downing, 170 Dragoman, a Christian village, 206; Des Hayes misses the road to, 206
169, 170;
his family,
reference to,
^- 3)
Dilly.
Dragomans
(interpreters).
See
Dinaric Alps, 79 w. r Diocletian, Spalato built within his palace precincts, 86 n. 3, 147 Dniester, river, Caspar Gratiani
perishes crossing the, 51 . 3 Dogliana. mountains, location of the,
Dominico; Gratiani, Caspar Drake, Sir Francis, his portrait in Mundy's MS., ri . 2 Drapers' Company, the, the Garraways, freemen
of,
14
71.
7i.
11
Drave,
Drina,
71.
river,
river,
75
Dreadiioiight, the,
3 ; the, xxxvii,
in
83 n. 5; country between Sarajevo and the, 148; compared with the Alps, 148, 148 71. 2 D'Oksza, Th., his Histoire de V Empire Ottoi7ia7i referred to, 64 71. i Doljanca or Doljani, river, 83 //. 5 Dollar, value of a, 100, 100 71. 4 Dolphin, The, at Poix, 131
80
for offenders
=,7
;
Drubbing, a punishment
Turkey,
58
Ducat,
92
71.
of Venice,
t
value of
a,
92,
INDEX
Due
n.
255
to, 146, 156; 192 . 3; Conbrought from,
Torri,
5
the,
at
Verona,
loi
Du
Column
^93
Dumont, Le
to the
Sieur, his
New
Voyage
notes
Elizabeth, Queen of England, sends emissaries to Turkey, 171 ; inaugurates the Levant Company, 171,
172
Ellis,
III.,
Levant referred
and 117
to, see
on pp.
Edward, emissaiy
171
to
Murad
113, 115
Dunkirk, Bargrave
stantinople
to,
travels
from Con-
Emanuell, England,
xvi,
I,
215 Duny, river. See Danube Duomo of Milan. See Cathedrals Dutch, the, lose ships in a storm, 169 Verdier, his Voyage de France referred to, see notes on pp. 115,
10,
II
Du
120,
i.3o>
121,
122,
131. 132
Englefield, Sir Francis, his Travels {Rawl. MS. D. 197) referred to, 119 n. 5, 125 n. 5, 128 n. 3, 129 n. 4, 138 n. 4 English, the, expelled from Gascony, XX
Duvno
intended
life
at
Eyre's goods
Constantinople, xxv, 22 ; at Constantinople, reside at Pera, xxviii, 22 n. 2, 44 ; at Leghorn and in the Islands of the Mediterranean, 16,
17 .
I
the, at
Malegnano,
106 Early Voyages to the Levant referred to, see notes on pp. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 46, 47, 48, 49, 52, 164 Earthquakes, at Zante, 18 ;z. 3, 19; at Constantinople, 23 n. 3, 29, 39, 190
48
name, 48
w. 4
Des Hayes
halts at,
the,
Mundy's
petition to the Directors of, lii Sir Henry Garraway, a Director of,
liii,
Eumenes,
and, 154
battle
7z.
between Antigonus
death
in
of,
14 . 11; Clement and Job Harby, Directors of, liii Sir Morris
;
i;
154 w.
Europe, map
of,
Abbot,
Mundy
xvi,
1,
liv, 8, 144, 144 n. 6, connection of Richard Wyche, senior, with, 159, 161; connection of the family of Richard Wyche with, 162, 164, 165; compared with the Levant Company, 172; rise of the, 172; records of, referred to, see Court Mitmtes; Factory Records East Indies, the, Mundy's voyages
lii,
145
7z.
; 6 71. I, i[ 7t. 2, travels in, i, 7, 9, 10, 11 71. 2; Bargrave's travels in, 215 n. 2 Europeans, unpopularity of, at Sarajevo, xxxvii, 81
Eurydice,
152, 152 n.
Euxine. Evagrius,
Orpheus,
dimen-
sions of S. Sophia, 194 Evan. See Ivan Evliya Efendi, his T7-avels
zV?
Etu-ope referred
3,
to,
see
notes
East Sea.
Ecus
PP- 31. 32, 33> 34. 35. 37. 39. Expedition, the, Mundy sails on, for
Sural, xvi,
liv, Ivii, 7
on 4
Edward,
a footman, a
member
of
Sir
John
Pindar's train, 43
Edward
of, in
Sir
William
as
recommended
am-
256
INDEX
France, Mundy's
travels in, Ixi,
r^
bassador by Buckingham, 179; the Levant Company compelled to appoint as ambassador, 179, 180; Dominico chosen as secretary for, and refused by, 42 n. 5 ; succeeds Pindar at Constantinople, xxvi, 23, 23 7t. 6, 41, 42 n. 5, 179, 180, 181; pays his respects to the Grand Signior, 36; his incapacity and unpopularity, 181; his conduct complained of, 181; is recalled to England, 23 n. 6, 41 n. 3, 181; his claims rehis defence, 181 ferred to the Privy Council, 182; 182death of, Eyre, Sir William, of Great Chauldfield, Peccasod, father of Sir John Eyre, 179
;
116 n. 5, 1 19-134, 138, 139 n. 3, 139 n.\; map of, in Mundy's MS., 116 n. 5, 121 n. 8; 122 n. 5, 139 71. I how divided from Savoy, 118; contends with Austria for the
;
Valtellina,
it.
i;
Symonds'
Francis Francis
I.
no
71.
death
of,
10 . 5
Duke
of
Frangoise-Catherine, of Savoy, a
nun,
no
Franks,
Factory Records, Surat, referred to, 165 71. I Falkland, Lord, a friend of George Sandys, 192 n. 3 Falmouth, Mundy's voyages to and from, xvi, 11, 145; an important
seaport in the xxvi
as
17th century,
xvii,
Fanfani,
ferred
Pietro,
to,
88 n.
Consul at Smyrna to succeed Greene, 44 71. 6 Freeman, Ralph, member of the Levant Company, 42 7i. 5 Freight, charges for, on the Royall Merchant, 166, 167 Fremlen, William, representative of the East India Company at Agra, sends Mundy from Agra to 7
;
Fardles, of indigo, 8 of saltpetre, 8 Fasana, Canale di, Pindar's party pass through the, xl, 89, 89 n. 4 Ferdinand IL, Emperor of Germany, ordnance taken from, by the Turks, 75, 150, 150 n. 3 Feria, Duke of, governor of Milan, Pindar exchanges visits with, xliii, 106; death of, 106 11. 5 Ferronerie, Rue de la, Henri IV. murdered in the, 129, 129 n. 2;
situation of,
Surat, 8
Pindar's 43 ; the six, travel in carts, 44 ; the six, hire a boat from Spalato, xl, 88 Fresh waters, the, near Pera, xxviiij
44' 44 n. 4, 47 71. 3, 48 71. Frith, a hurdle, 68, 68 n. 2
I
Fumahone,
9
at
mouth
of Canton R.,
Feu de France,
Filibe.
129 n. 2 Le,
at
Lyons,
See Philippopolis
n. 3
Gabinian way,
Prologh Mts., 84
xxiv,
29,
Fires,- at Constantinople,
190
Fish, abundance
of, at Scanderoon, 20; at Belgrade, xxxv, 73, 73 n. i Fisher, Thomas, pi'esents a copy of Mundy's MS. to the India Office,
Gainsford, Thomas, Mundy quotes from his Glory of E7iglaitd, Ivi, 27-30; Mundy's style compared with that of, Ivii; his Glory of E7igla7id referred to, see notes on
3, 18, 20, 27, 39, 43, 50, 51, 62, 63, 65, 67, 99, 104, 112, 113, 115, 116, 121; his description of Constantinople, 27-30, 187-192; full title of the work of, 187 n. i;
pp.
1X1
at
Fountains, number
of,
at
Constan-
I,
38, 38
7t.
I,
by Turks
English Pindar,
INDEX
xxvii, 44, 46, 47,
of,
257
or
190,
196,
Gaunches
of, 55,
Ganches,
description
190
55 " 5, 56 Gaunching, a punishment for malein Turkey, Iviii, 55; description of, Iviii, 56; illustration
Galland, Antoine,
ferred to, 64 n.
Journal
re-
factors
of,
at
-:.^,
58
89;
description of
a,
Gemoniae,
2i7.
Hucentaur
off
to,
Galleons,
Galleys,
Spanish, Vincent, 16
built
Cape
arsenal
St
at
at
i
the
;
Venice, 93, 95 n.
sails of,
;
made
Gentleman'' s Guide, The, his Tour through France referred to, 114 n. 1, 115 n. 6, 117 n. 1, 124^ n. 1 George d'Amboise, name of the great bell at Rouen, xix ; description of, xix; inscription on, xix;
Ganges,
the,
river,
Mundy's journey
xlii,
i
to
10
lake,
of,
when melted down, xix ;/. 3 Gergeau, Gerseau. ^i?^ Jargeau German Empire, extent of the old,
148 n. 5 Gibraltar, Giedicula.
touches at, 15 See Yedi Kiile Gien, Pindar's party lodge at, xlvii, 122; description of, 122 n. i, 227, 227 n. 3; a Protestant town, 122, 122 n. I ; retaken by the Catholics, 122 n. I
Garda,
extent
104;
in in
Mundy
Garraway, Arthur,
Constantinople,
14
a
;/.
prisoner
11
Garraway
14
;/.
1
of,
Garraway,
Henry, son of Sir Wm. Garraway, a director of the East India Company, liii; freeman
of the Drapers' Company, 14 w. 11 Lord Mayor of London, 14 . 11; director of the Levant Company, 14
11.
;
Giralda,
the,
at
Seville,
Mundy's
description of, xxi, 97 Giraldillo, the, on the Giralda, description of the, xxi, xxi n. 3
Gladiators, combats
theatres,
of,
in
amphito
102
II,
42 n. 5
the proSir
Cadiz
Glascock, Henry,
factor, 8
grandlather "chantor" of, xiii, xiv Glover, Sir Thomas, his account of Barton's journey, 47 n. 3 ambas;
Garraway
Garraway,
Garway),
14 w. 11 Sir William,
head of the family, 14 n. 11 William, son of Sir William Garraway, 14 n. 11; a director of the East India Company, liii, liv; Mundy's connection
with,
liii,
sador at Constantinople, 50 n. 2, 171, 175; nominated for re-appointment as ambassador to Constantinople, 180, 180 n. 2
liv
Garraway's Coffee-house,
14 n. 11
to, 9 from, at Brescia, cause of, 104, 231, 232; 104; prevalence of, in the Alps, xlv, Iv, 117, 117 71, 5; Symonds' remarks on, 231, 232
sufferers
Garway
13,
family,
the.
See
Garraway
to,
Golden Apple,
xlv,
the, at
Chambery,
family, the
117
the, at Constantinople,
2,
Gascony, Mundy's
24;
lost
first visit
by the English,
xx, xx,
Golden Gate,
32 n.
193 n. 2
Calais, 133
at at
Boulogne,
Chivasso,
Duke
6 n.
219
the,
Gaul, map
I
in
Mundy's MS.,
Golden
xliv,
Lion,
109
17
258
Golden
99
'>^-
INDEX
Star, the, at Padua,
3
xlii,
xlii,
99,
Gondolas,
98 n.
I
96 n.
xxi
i,
97,
98,
Granada, Mts.
of,
Consul at Smyrna, xxv, 44 n. 6; dispute about the salary of, 44 . 6 case of, supported by the King,
44 n. 6; petition of, detailing his 44 n. 6 Greene, Lawrence, senior, director of the Levant Company, 23 n. 4; agent for chaplains of the Levant Company, 23 n. 4; member of a committee of the East India Co., 23 11. 4; death of, 23 n. 4
services,
Grande Chartreuse, La, 230 Grand Malligan. See Malaga Grand Signior, the, 10, 21,
25; permits Pindar to return to England, 23; his reception of ambassadors, xxvi, 36, 36 n. 4, 37, 214; his orders for Pindar's safe conduct,
xxxiii, 67 his presents to ambasambassadors to, sadors, 36 11. 3 46 n. 2, 65, 65 n. I ; his seraglio at Adrianople, 49, 49 n. 4, 156;
;
;
Greenland,
172
trading
company
to,
gift
from
I
Shah
'Abbas
to,
65,
his treasure in Belgrade ; 151; his stable for camels at Philippopolis, 155; his galleys at Constantinople, 196 Gratiani, Caspar, rise and downfall
65 n.
Grenoble, 230, 230 n. 3, 231 Gretia. See Rumelia Grimston, Edward, his translation
of Michel Baudier's History of the Imperiall Estate of the Grand Seigneurs referred to, 22 n. i, 25, 25 n. I, 30 n. 2, 32 n. 3, 62 n. 2, 63 71. 3 ; Mundy's quotations from
Ivi, 25-27 ; his descripof Constantinople, 183-186; dedication of his work, 183 n. 2; full title of his work, 25 n. i, 183 7Z. 2 Grimston, Sir Harbottel, nephew of
castle,
of,
Iv;
dragoman
to
Glover and
Pindar, xxxi, 50, 50 n. 2, 51 ; obtains Sir Thomas Shirley's release, 50 n. 2 ; envoy to the Emperor Matthias, 50 ii. 2 ; Voivode of Moldavia, xxxi, 50 n. 2, 5 1 ; his brother and sister become Muhammadans, 50 n. 2 Lithgow meets with, 50 n. 2 ; made Duke of Naxia, 5 1 ; intrigues with Sigismund of Poland, 51 w. 3; is deposed, 51 n. 3 ; perishes at the battle of Jassy, 51 w. 3 ; another version of his end,
;
his
work,
tion
Edward Grimston,
183 n. 2
51 n. 3
Grisons, the, 153 n. i Grotzka, Pindar's party halt near, xxix, xxxv, 71 ; palangha and a man staked khans at, xxxv, 71 other names for, 71 n. 5, at, 71, 72 201, 201 w. 4; Des Hayes halts at,
; ;
n. 2
at,
201
Gravesend,
xlix,
Guadalquiver,
14 n.
135; waggon hii-ed from Dover to, xlix, 135 boats hired from, to Blackwall, 136; Mundy halts at, on the way to Spain, 138 ; Symonds travels from London to, by barge, 218; coach service to Canterbury from, 21S
Guadiana,
14 n. 4
Guier, river, boundary between France and Savoy, 118, 118 . 4 Guilliams (or Gwilliams), Abell, Pindar from merchant, escorts
Constantinople, 45, 47, 47 n. i ; apprenticed to John Williams, made free of the xxvii n. 3;
Grayhound,
the, at
Boulogne,
xlviii,
132, 219 n. 2; at Dover, xlix, 134, 134 ;z. 6, 218, 218 n. 2 Great Sapphire, the, report of her
Gujarat,
Greeks,
Guzman,
i,
186;
in
Alonso Perez de, Duke of retires to and dies commands at Sanlucar, xx, xx n. 6 the Spanish Armada, xx, xx n. 6
Medina Sidonia,
Greene, Lawrence,
junior,
Mundy
Hadrian, Emperor,
ople,
rejDairs
remains with, at Constantinople, XXV, xxvi, xlix, 23, 23 11. 4; pi'Obable parentage of, 23 n. 4; his property in Virginia, 23 11. 4
Adrian-
155, 211 Hafsa, or Khafsa, Pindar's party halt at, xxviii, xxxi, 49; bridge at,
INDEX
xxxi,
259
49
other
spellings of the
name, 48 n. 4, 49 n. i; Des Hayes' description of, 212; kkdn and mosque at, 212 Halles, Rue des, in Paris, 129 n. 1 Hamburg, Mundy's voyage to, 11
;
distance of, from Kolar, 202 ; Des Hayes lodges in a khdTt at, 202 ; Turks and Christians at, 202 Havre de Grace, called Newhaven
trading
company
J.
of,
172
by Mundy, xviii, xviii . 4 Hebrus, river. See Maritza Hellespont (river of Constantinople),
the, 20,
Hammer,
(von),
his Histoire de
20 .
2, 31,
71.
r Empire Ottoman referred to, 50 n. 2, 51 71. 3, 64 71. I Hanging, how performed in Turkey,
56
line of, rulers of Milan, 105 71. 8 Harby, Clement, cousin of Richard Wyche, senior, liii, 160, 163 Harby, Sir Erasmus, son of Job Harby, 164 Harby, Sir Job, Mundy's connection with, liii ; brother-in-law of Richard Wyche, liii, 138 . i ; son-in-law of Richard Wyche, senior, liii, 160 ; executor to the will of Richard Wyche, liii, 161 ; marries Elizabeth Wyche, 163; knighted, 164; made a baronet, 164 bequest to, 164 Harby, Lady. .S't'i? Wyche, Elizabeth Harebone, William, emissary to Murad III., 171 Harl. MS. 288 {Dt7'ectio7is to Travelle7-s), referred to, 100 n. 2, loi n. 2, lor 7t. 6, 104 n. i, 104 7i. 3 Harl. MS. 943 {Note-book of Richard Symo7ids), contents of, 217 7t. i, 234 71. 5; duplicate copy of, 218 11. 5; quoted, 218-224, 227-235 Ha7-l. MS. 1278 (Note-book of H. Symonds), quoted, 224-226 Harl. MS. 2286, history and descripdiscrepancies tion of, Iviii, Ix, Ixi between Rawl. MS. A. 315 and, see notes on pp. i, 2, 7, 8, 13, 14,
; ;
begins the
Pont Neuf, 125 71. 5 Henri IV, of France, statue of, on Pont Neuf, xlvii, 125, 125 . 5, portrait of, in the Louvre, 227 murder of, Iv, 129, 129 127, 225
;
71.
Henry IV.
of England, tomb of, at Canterbury, 135 Heraclea, ruins of, 156 Herbert, Edward, Lord of Cherbury, English ambassador in Paris, 126
71.
halt
at,
zX,
4,
52; khdn
52 n. 4, 53
Hero and Leander, referred to, 157 Herzegovina, xxxvi, 78 ti. i, 79 . Heylyn, Peter, his Full Relation of
i
two you7-7ieys referred to, 125 ti. 125 . 5, 130 . I, 130^.5, 131 .
132
71.
i,
9,
8
4,
Hindustan,
Hippodrome,
the, at Constantinople. See At-maidan, the Hissarlik, on the site of Troy, 157
.
Histoi7'e de Fra7ice,
35>
.S5
Arcadius,
I. 196; 196 w. 2
set
up
by
Hobhouse,
tlvoiigh
J.
Alba7iia
55, 56, 57, 59, 64, 83, 84, 95, lor, 106, 117, 119, 123, 125, 132, 136, 137, 138, 139,
n. 4, 31 n. 2, 32 n. i, 32 n. 3, 35 n. 3, 38 n. 2, 48 n. 3, 52 n. 5, 53
71. I, 136 71. Hobso7i-Jobson
8,
174
71.
141, 142, 143, 144, 145 Harl. MS. 6243, referred to, xiv
Ha7-l.
Glossary),
71.
i
Hoemus,
Holland,
Iviii,
Voyage de Fi-a7ice a Cot2sta7ititiople), referred to, 150 n. i Harleia7i Miscella7ty, the, vol. v., referred to, 94 71. i, 99 w. 3, 106
(
MS. 6796
Burnell, referred to, 26 n. 2 Mts. See Balkan Mts. Mundy's travels in, xvi,
II
(Yule
and
T, 9,
Holyoke,
Francis,
Ivi,
his
Dictionary
referred to,
71.
4
of,
Hondius, maps
in
Harlots, punishment
57
Turkey,
MS.,
Ix,
71.
II
71.
2,
84
71.
Pindar's lodge in a khd7i at, xxix, xxxiv, 71 other names for, 71 ;?. 2
;
2, 115 . 6, 113 . I, 115 1 16 n. 5, 118 71. 2, 121 71. 8, 122 71. 5 Horses, hired at Belgrade for Pindar's party, xxxvi, 75; cost of
109 .
6,
4,
hiring, xxxvii, xliv, 75 71. 4, 81, 82, 119, 119 n. 6; discharged at Sara-
17
26o
INDEX
;
India Office, the, a copy of Mundy's first and second Voyages to India
at,
Lyons to Roanne, xlvi Horse-tails, Standard of the Seven, stories of the origin of, 64 ii. i
Ixi 8,
Indigo, Indus,
10
river,
Howard, Henry
the
Fredericlc,
son of
at
studies
from, 4; 4 71. 4
Howard,
Earl of
Thomas.
See
Arundel,
Huguenots,
strongholds of the, on
121 n. 3, 228
Inns, in Turkey. See Khd7is Interpreters (dragomans). See Dominico Gratiani, Caspar Iron Cross, the, inn, in Rue St
;
Humes, Thomas,
Pindar's train,
a Scot,
xlii,
member
of
1,
138, 138
71.
5,
loi n. i ; left behind at Padua, xlii, loi Hungarians, the, Lithgow-'s descrip43,
tion of, 68 n. 4;
It.
n. 4
William, his Ari/iy of the I/idian Moi^htils referred to, 64 7t. i Isabella of Savoy, marries the Duke of Modena, no 7i. 5 Isere, river, 115 71. 3, 230 n. 3; Symonds mistakes the Arc for the,
231, 231
71.
Irvine,
Hungary,
war between 72 n. i Turkey and, 52, 52 n. r, 201 Mundy's incorrect idea of, 68, 68
; ;
Iskanderiin.
See Scanderoon
7i.
2,
n. 4; extent of, in the 17th century, 68 It. 4, 200; Blount's travels in,
146
Hunt,
at,
xlix,
Harvey, xxvii
the Levant
escorts Pindar
of
3
;
from Constantinople,
44
Ister, river. See Danube Istria, 147, 147 71. i; capitano of, xli n. I, 89 Istria, See Punta di Cape of.
Husband,
n. 5
a,
steward, paymaster, 42
Promontore
Italians, at Constantinople, their churches, 25 Italy, Mundy's travels in, i. 214 . 4; map of, in his MS. 6 . i lazarettos at the seaports of, 87 ; Symonds' notes on, 217 71. i Ivan or Jura Ivan, Pindar's party reach, xxxviii, 82; distance of, from Sarajevo, 82 ;z. 6 Ivan Planina, xxxviii, 82 71. 6; other spellings of, 82 71. 6
, ;
Ibrahim Pasha,
builds
a khdit at
arrive at,
xxix, xxxii, 61; situation of, 61, 62; other spellings of the name, 61 description of the country n. 8 between Sophia and, 208; inhabit;
MS. A.
315,
II
71.
2,
71.
58, 59
Illyria,
148
Jablanitza,
referred to,
15
71.
11,
6,
14
15
71.
2,
7,
15
71.
71.
4,
5,
15
71.
71.
16
I,
4
to, xvi, liv,
2, 7,
river, Pindar's party follow the, xxxvi, 79 . 2 Jackson, John, uncle of Peter Mundy, xvii, Ivi; rector of North xiii,
Petherwin,
xiii
lix,
8,
9,
10,
11;
of
Ix;
Jadar,
river, xxxvii,
80
71.
3,
80
7t.
Mundy
in,
petitions
liii;
for
employment
portion
Hi,
large
extent of, 4, 5; inhabitants of, 4; productions of, 4; derivation of the name, 4, 4 . 4; description of, 8; alluded to, 19 7t. 2, 165 Indian Ocean, trading places in the,
5 w.
I
See Yagodin James I., King, supports Lawrence Greene's claim, 44 71. 6; renews the charter of the Levant Company, Peter Wyche sent to Spain to 171 announce the death of, 163 James, Richard, a member of a Committee of the East India Co.,
Jagodina.
23
71.
s ;
INDEX
Janissaries, the,
2
r
261
effect
revolutions,
I,
. 4, 2
;/.
11.
6,
22 n.
51
I,
190; a guard
Kaik, a small skiff, 28 n. 3 Ka'iliunakdm, deputy-governor, 75 n. 6, 201 Kaniza, taken by the Turks, xxxv,
of ord75 n. 3 n. 2, 152 n. 6 Kapi dgha, chief door-keeper, 36 n. 4, 64 n. I, 211; gates of the Seraglio guarded by the, 188 Kapiji-bdshi, chamberlain, 36 n. 4,
75>
whom
to
75
''
description
the Persian ambassador, protect 65 their attire, 65, 67 n. 1 the roads around Nissa, 68 n. 3, 204 the Seraglio at Constantinople guarded by, 188; act as permanent guards to various embassies, 188 n. 4; serve as a guard for the Viceroy of Rumelia, 211 Janizar, cape, 157
;
guard
at,
64
n.
Kaprulov
Derbend,
pass.
See
to,
xvi,
See Xaral Jargeau, Pindar's party pass, 122; other spellings of the name, 122 n. 2, 122 11. 5 Jassy, defeat of Caspar Gratiani at, 51 n. 3
Java. 5 Jebbatore.
the
See Gibraltar
6"<?
Jemberli Tash.
Jersey,
144,
Burnt Column,
to,
xxxii, 61, 61
n.
2
2
Mundy's
visit
xvi,
lii,
145; Mundy's description of, cider produced at, 144 ; 144 language of the inhabitants of,
14+
Kasim Beg. See Burim Kasim Kasim Pasha, a suburb of Constantinople, 30, 31
;
Evliya Efendi's
visits
Jews,
~act
as
hangmen,
56
\
;
n. at
at
account of, 3 1 n. Kazi, Kddi, the, at Pindar and 1 'es 72, 72 n. 3; at guard to Pindar,
Belgrade,
Hayes
to,
of xxxvi,
Belgrade, 73, 74 n.
furniture hired of,
of, at
Venice,
Keeleesh.
Kelly,
See Clissa
P., his
;?.
xli, 92; position Venice, 92 n. 2 \\ovf treated by the Turks, 152; taxes paid by the, at Constantinople, 186, 198; farm the customs at Constantinople, 190
;
Universal Ca?nbist i, 98 71. 4, 100 n. 4 Kentish, Mr, bearer of letters from Pindar to the Levant Co., 177 Keppel, Major George, his Journey across the Balcaji referred to, 67
referred to, 92
n.
Dr
6't'^
Mustafa
Kerkoporta
193 n. 2; 193 n. 2
xiv
Joan
Iv,
xlvii,
Johnson,
n.
6,
r
W.
3,
his
Traveller''
7,
Ketch.
Guide referred
16 n.
to,
106 n, 118 n. 7
7
115
Khafsa
;
youah,
JonruaU of a Voyage
and
Italy.
II.
thro'
France
See Catch or Hafsa, Pindar's party halt at, xxviii, xxxi, 49; bridge at. xxxi, other spellings of, 48 n. 4, 49 49 n. I ; Des Hayes' description
of,
Juan
Khalll Pasha, signs a treaty between Turkey and Persia, 65 n. Khans (caravanserais), in Turkey,
i
allusions
to,
xxxi,
xxxiv,
xxxv,
262
INDEX
La La
Crosse, inn at Dieppe, 138 n. 4 Liberte, a messenger employed by Symonds, 223 Lambert. See Lanslebourg Lane, John,, son of Richard Lane,
42
7Z.
156; at Kiichuk Chekmeje, Mundy and Des Hayes lodge in, xxviii, 46,
213; descriptions
of, Iv, 52, 52 . 5, 53. 54. 73. 73 n. 4, 202, 203, 213, 214, 216; excellence of, between
Lane, Richard,
train,
travels
in
Pindar's
42
211
built
by
rich
42 n. 2 ; repudiates his son's debts, 42 n. 2; hires a boat for Pindar's party, xl, xlix, 88 hires a waggon for Pindar's baggage, 135 Lnnsdowjte MS. 720 ( Voyage cT Italie), referred to, see notes on pp. in,
;
112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 121, 122 Lanslebourg, at the foot of Mt.
189 Knolles, Richard, his Histo7-ie of the Turkes referred to, Ivi, 43 n. i, 50 n. 2, 51 11. 3, 65 n. 3, 67 n. i, 75 n. 3, 75 n. 6 Kolar or KuUar, Pindar's party dine at, xxix, xxxiv, xxxv, 71; palangha at, xxxv, 71, 71 n. 4; other spellings of the name, 71 n. 4; Des Hayes halts at, 202 ; inhabitants of,
I,
n.
188,
Cenis, xlv, 112 n. 2, 114, 232; Pindar's party halt at, xlv, 114; other spellings of the name, 114
;/.
La
Palisse, 228 n. 5
La Verpilliere,
at, xlvi,
202
Kolubara,
79 4
4,
Konjica
or Konitza, Pindar's party reach, xxxviii, 83, 83 n. 3; distance of, from Sarajevo, 83 n. i ; other spellings of the name, 83 n. i
Koum
Kale, 157
;
n.
Pindar's party lodge 118; other spellings of the name, 118 . 8 Lazaretto, at Spalato, xl, 86; description of a, Iv, 87, 87 11. I ; why established, 87 Leate, Nicholas, secretary of the Levant Company, 176 Le Bruyn, Corneille, his Voyage ait Levant referred to, 31 . r, 32 . 2,
Kuchuk Chekmeje,
xxviii, XXX,
Pindar halts
at,
33
I.
33 ^
of,
45 khan at, xxviii, 46, 213, 214; other names for, 46 . 2; bridge at, xxx, 46, 46 71. 2, 215 ; halting place for ambassadors, 46
n. 2, 47 n. 3,
213; Sulaiman
at,
reat,
of,
195; fish
xxiv, 16, 17; decoration of houses at, 16, 16 n. 8, 17 n. i other descriptions of, 17 n. i ; lazaretto, at, 17 n. 2; \h^ Royall Merchant
213;
bound
xlviii,
to,
16,
213, 214
Le Hamel,
131
;
Kumburgas,
party pass, xxviii, 47 ; situation and descrijnion of, 47 n. 1, 47 n. 3 ; other spellings of the name, 47 n. 2
Le Neve,
ess at
171 Peter,
Symonds'
n.
i
MS-
La
of,
La Chambre,
of,
23 r
fortifications
Lerma,
La
at,
121, 121 n. I, 111 n. 2, 228; description of, 121 n. 2, 228 J country around described, 228
xlvi,
at,
121;
bridge
Cardinal, Duke of, dies att Valladolid, li, Iv, 140, 140 n. 2; his tomb, 140, 140 n. 3; cause of unpopularity of, 140 w. 2 ; his soni supplants, 140 n. 2; created Cardinal, 140 . 2 140 n. 2
;
retires
from Madrid^
INDEX
Levant,
172;
see
263
the, trade of the English in, Blount's voyage to, see Ap-
pendix
Appendix
trading boat, Mundy's voyage to London in a, xvi Lodi, Pindar's party dine at, xliii,
Lobster
in 106; 106 n. I
the
Duchy
of
Milan,
directors
4, xxvii,
Loire,
of, in
river,
116 n. 5;
shallowness
summer, xlvi, 120, 122, 228; towns on the banks of the, xlvi,
120, 120 n. 2, 121, 121 n. I, 122, 122 n. 7; Pindar's party travel to Orleans 011 the, xlvi, Iv, 122, 136; floating mills on the, xlvii, 122; description of the country
on
7Z.
its
banks,
xlvi,
Symonds' description of
Pindar's party lodge at,
"227
Lonato,
103
to, xv,
overland xxxvii-
Ivii, 7,
compared
with Constantinople, 30, 188, 191, the Exchange in, compared 192 with that in Paris, 129 n. 4; Mundy's journeys to and from,
;
145
Mundy
in,
writes
xvi,
lix
his
second
Sy-
Appendix
edits
33420,
Ixii
Longjumeau,
into
the
lagoons of Venice, 89, 89 n. 8, 90 11. 2, 96 n. I Light horsemen, hired from Gravesend to Blackwall, 136; definition of, 136 n. 2 Lion s Whelp, pinnace, 169 Lira, value of, 92 n. i, 98, 98 n. 4, ^9, 100 n. 4, 123, 235 Lisicici, reach, Pindar's party
distance of from 83 ; Konjica, 83 n. 3 Lithgow, William, his Painefull Peregrhiations referred to, see notes
xxxviii,
123 n. 6, 124 See Su^uraz Louis XII. of France, orders the building of Pont Notre Dame, 125 n. I
xlvii,
Loucharick.
his
am-
bassadors at Constantinople, xxvii, xxxi, 199 n. 2; his sister marries the Prince of Piedmont, no n. 4,
113, 234 11. 4; his reconciliation with his mother, 128 n. 4; plans the death of the Marechal d'Ancre,
Loup,
Roanne, 228
Louvre,
xlvii,
on pp.
139 Little
i6, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 31, 50, 55, 62, 67, 68, 88, 96, 99, 106,
of,
128 11. 3; gardens surrounding, 127, 127 n. 5, 224, 225; registry-office beneath, 225
Titus,
5
buried
at
Padua,
Low
Lowe,
Ljubowija,
"
the, 133 Francis, son of Sir Thomas Lowe, xxvii n. 3, 172; made free of the Levant Company, xxvii . 3 ; escorts Pindar from Constantinople, ? in action at 45, 47, 47 n. I Algiers, 45 n. 3 ; a merchant at Galata, 172
;
Countries,
264
Lowe,
Sir
INDEX
Thomas,
i'j2;
father of Francis
Manilas
(Philippine
Is.),
Mundy's
Lowe,
167,
1
governor of the
at
intended voyage to the, 6 Manneringe, Captain. See Mainwaring, Sir Henry Mantua, Duke of. See Francis de
Gonzaga
Lugar Nuevo,
the Guadiana flows underground from, xxii . 3 Lule-Burgas, 47 ;?. 3, 48 n. 4, 156; Pindar's party halt near, xxviii, XXX, 48 other names for, 48 . 3 ;
;
Maps
I
in
Mundy's MS.,
I
; ;
the World,
Des Hayes halts at, 212; mosque and k/ian at, 212, 216; Bargrave's
description
of,
Europe, 6, 6 . i, Arabia, n. 2 Turkey, 6 n. i r I 6 . I Italy, 6 . i Savoy, 6 n. i, 109 ft. 6, 118 fi. 2; Gaul, 6 ft. I, 116 ft. 5, 121 ft. 8, 122 M. 5;
n. I, 6, 6 u.
; ;
;
Asia, 6 n.
the track of
Mundy's
reach,
at,
Lussin, L,
88
71.
216 xl,- 88
;z.
5,
88 n.
6,
Luxembourg
visits,
228
ft.
ft.
5;
monastery
Palace,
120
4
of
Margaf-et., the, of
126
;?.
3,
Margaret,
Lyons, Mundy's
description
of, xlvi,
Weymouth, 45 ft. 5 Savoy, marries the Dukeof Mantua, iio. 5; dispute about the custody of her child,
119; Pindar's party lodge at, xlvi, 119; cost of horse hire from Turin to, xliv, 119; other descriptions of, 119 n. 4, 229; water-mills at, xlvi, 119, 149; Symonds' route to, 228, 228 ;/. 5; country between Tarare and, described, 229; Symonds' expenses from Nevers to, 235
Mundy sails
for
England in, li, 141; goes to Aleppo for the Levant Co. in, 141
3
Mabe,
Ixiii
residence of the
Worth
family,
ir
Maritza,
i55>
54 .
9,
to, 6, 9,
5; Blount's
Mark Antony,
Market,
of
fights against
ft.
i
Brutus
Avret-
to,
[46;
or
Sophia reckoned
St
to,
1,
151
Women.
Mundys
on
See
of,
Madagascar
Mainwaring,
Lawrence,
9,
bazar
Mundy's voyage
11
Marketon.
with
the
the
xiv
Maiden Tower,
Marlborough
battle fought
Downs,
the,
compared
at Venice, 92 ; commands English soldiers for Venice, 92 w. 3, 92 taking against, for suit n. 6;
Wardeman's
ship,
92 w. 6;
par-
doned, 92 n. 6
153; 153 Marmora, Sea of (Propontick Sea), 47 ft. 4, 183, 212, 213; extent of, 198 Marne, river, compared with the
Philippic
Fields,
Majorca, 15 Malacca, Mundy's voyage to, 9 Malaga, Mundy touches at, 14,
24
Morava, 204
Marquise,
15,
Mars, god
i
in
Tur-
of war, amphitheatres consecrated to, 102 Marseilles, 119 ti. 1 Martin, Mme, Symonds' landlady,
23,
Malegnano,
ro6
at,
224 Maf-y
n.
I
Rose,
the,
Lawrence Spike
purser
for,
recommended
xlii,
as
42
to,
Matthias,
Emperor,
embassy
from the Grand Signior, 50 ft. 2 Caspar Gratiani treats with the,
51
INDEX
Maubert, Place, 224 Maurice, son of the Duke
marries his niece,
i
265
of,
Modena, Duke
of Savoy,
i
marries Isabella
5
of Savoy, [O n. 6
arrival at, 9
10 .
Modyford, James,
grave,
2
r
Mauritius,
to,
I.,
Mundy's
defeated at
Medici, Marie
her
life in
de, the
11.
Luxemliourg
3; pictures of
Luxembourg, 226 Medina Sidonia, Duke of. See Guzman, Don Alonso Perez de
the
149 fi. 4 Moisselles, Pindar's party pass through, xlviii, 131, 131 n. 6 Moldavia, Caspar Gratiani made governor of. xxxi, Iv, 50 n. 2, 51 ;
called Bugdamia others, 51 7i. 1
by
Mundy and
Medvednjik Planina,
party
ft.
the,
Mundy's
;^.
cross,
xxxvi,
79
2,
79
Meeching,
name
his
S.
of
New-
governor
of,
99 .
Symonds'
Menavinus, Antonius,
on
194
the
remark
Sophia,
capacity
of
description of the country between Paris and, 227; castle at, 227; boats
built at, 227
Menick,
Montmelian,
Merchants,
English, trading under the Levant Company, 16, 16 11. 5; their residence at Constantinople, 22 n. 2 their life at Constantinople, 22 ; Eyre quarrels with the, at Constantinople, 181 eredith, Jane, marries Peter Wyche,
;
bridge at, 115 n. 3; Pindar precedes his followers to, xlv, 116; description of, 116 . 2, 116 n. ^, 230; castle at, 230; siege of, 230 Montreuil-sur-mer, Pindar's party lodge at, xlviii, 132; description of, 132, 132 11. 4, 219, 219 n. 3; other spellings of the name, 132
n. 4
Messina, 15 n. 7, 16 Mestre, Canale di. See Cannaregio Mexico, Mundy's intended voyage
to,
at
Galata,
6,
6 n.
7!.
2 to,
loi
xliii,
at,
Morava,
river,
70 .
5,
70
71.
with the governor of, xliii, 106; cathedral at, xliii, 106; castle at, xliii, 107, 107 n. 1 Milan, Duchy of, 105 n. 6, 105 n. 8 boundary extent of the, 106 n. i of the, xliii, xliv, 108, 108 n. 5 Militsch, Mt., ascent of, by Pindar's party, probable, 84 n. 2 Miljacka or Miljatzka, river, xxxviii, 82, 82 7Z. 2 Mills, description of, at Belgrade, XXXV, xlvi, 72, 72 n. 4, 73, 82 n. 3, 119; on the Maritza, 72 n. 4; at Sarajevo, xxxviii, 82, 82 . 3 ; at Lyons, xlvi, 119; on the Loire,
visits
;
Pindar's party cross the, xxxiv, 70; Poullet and Des Hayes cross the, 70 71. 6, 204 source and outlet of the, 203, 204 compared with the
; ;
Marne, 204
Moryson,
Fynes, his Ili7iera7y re71. 2, 37 71. 6, 38 . I, 38 ;/. 2, 40 71. 1 Moscovia. See Russia Moscow, Mundy's intended journey
ferred to, 31
to,
6
at Constantinople, 25, 29,
xlvii,
122
Mosques,
Richard Wyche's
3.3>
3.S
Mincing Lane,
house
in,
Minorca,
136, 161 15 . 7, 16
Modane, Symonds
dines
at,
232
; ;
266
INDEX
to Constantinople, xxiii, 14; touches at ports in the Mediterranean, xxiii, 15, 16; arrives at Constantinople, xxiv, 7, to, 13, 21, 160, 172, 175, 177; remains at Constantinople for three years, xxiv, 22 ; death of his master, xxv,
n. 3 ; at Sophia, 152, 156 ; at Adrianople, 156, 211; built as acts of reparation, 210, 216 Mostar, route of railway from Sarajevo to, xxxviii, 82 n. 5, 83 n. 4 Moulin, Symonds passes, on the way to Roanne, 228 n. 5 II., 31 n. i, 36 n. i, fortifies the Seraglio at 39 11. I Constantinople, 35 n. 5 ; builds the Seraglio at Sarajevo, 8r w. 2 Muhamrriad III., takes Kaniza, 75
Merchant
Muhammad
;
23 ; lives with Lawrence Greene, junior, xxv, xxvi, 23 ; travels overland to England in Pindar's train,
xxvi-xlix, 1, 7, 10, 13, 41-136; takes leave of Pindar, xlix, 136,
Muhammad,
34
II-
n. 3
of,
2,
35 n. 2
at Constantinople,
Meleto, Patriarch
37 4
179; goes to Richard Wyche, 136, 161; goes to Penryn, 137; returns to London, 137 . 3 goes to Seville with pilchards, 1, 1 37 enters Richard
; ;
Wyche's
to tract,"
service,
1,
aunt of Peter Mundy, wife of John Jackson, xiii Mundy, , brother of Peter Mundy,
probable date of death of, xiii sister of Richard Mundy, marries Hannibal Vivian, xv Mundy, uncle of Peter Mundy,
Mundy,
xiii;
ness,
137
junior, of Penryn,
senior, of Penryn,
Mundy, Anthony,
xv Mundy, Anthony, merchant, xv
burial of,
Mundy,
Mundy,
Mundy,
xiv
returns to London on the Margett, li, 141, 162; goes to Colchester, 143; his master dies, 143, 162; goes to Cornwall, lii, 143; goes to St Malo and Jersey, lii, 144 returns to Penryn, 144; petitions the East India Company for employment, lii, 144; refuses to enter Sir Peter Wyche's service, 156, 163; entertained as under factor by the E. I. Co., liii, 144, 145 Richard n. I ; his salary under Wyche and the E. I. Co., 1, lii, liii, his voyages to India, 145 71. I China, Holland, Russia, etc., liv,
;
Mundy
Ivii, Iviii,
2,
11.
3,
7, 8, 9, 10,
11
his travels in
9,
1 1
;
Mundy, Mundy,
Mundy,
xiv
Lord Mayor of
xiv
London, family
John,
of,
fifth
settles at
his First Relation, 13-24; his Supplement to his First Relation, 24-40 his Second Relation, 41-136; his
his
travels,
xxv,
Mundy,
Mundy,
of,
Peter,
senior,
xxix,
1,
liv,
24,
of Peter Mundy, xiii; "chantor" of Glasney College, xiii, xiv Peter, birth and parentage of, xiii; early days and education
routes
6,
71.
marked on
2,
30 n.
5
;
84 n.
109 n.
6,
116
goes to Normandy, spends a year in Bayonne, xvii, 13; cabin boy to Captain Davis, xvii, 13; visits Spanish ports, xvii, 14; lives at Sanlucar, xvii, xxii, 14 ; learns Spanish at Seville, xviii, xx, 14, 137 '^^ 5; goes to Ayamonte and Tavira, xviii, xxii, 14; returns to England, xviii, xx, xx 11. 7, 14;
xvi,
xvii;
7,
xvii,
2,
13;
additional remarks on France and Spain, xviii-xxiii; his remarks on Constantinople, xxvi, 30-40; his description of Turkish
his
pastimes and punishments, 55-59; his description of Belgrade and "Bulgarians," xxxv, Iv, 72-78; his route from Valjevo to Spalato difficult to trace, xxxvi, xxxvii, xxxviii,
xl-xlii,
3; his observations on Venice, 90-98 ; his description of Paris, xlvii, xlviii, 124-130; his
78
71.
160;
sails
route across France compared with Symonds', 228 71. 5; his description
;; ;
INDEX
of Valladolid, li, 139-141; his observations on goitre, 104, 104 n. 6, 117; his remarks on Italian vineyards, xliii, 105 his quotations from other authors, xxvi, 25-27, 27-30, 146 n. I, 183 n. 3, 187 n. i, 192 n. 4; his friends and patrons, xiv,
;
267
chooses
a wife
71.
for
his
l^rother,
XV, xxiii, 1, liii, liv, Ivii, Ixiii, 2 ; his character and attainments, lii, liv, Iv, Ivi, Ivii; fall in the fortunes of his family, li ; his title to his
76 Murray, Dr James A. H., his Oxfo7-d English Dictionary referred to, 16 71. 8, 27 71. 2, 38 71. 3, 55 7t. 5, 89 7i. 5, ICO 71. 3, 134 71. Musa Palanka. See Bela Palanka
4,
I
xxxvi, 43
Muscovy Company,
Garraway a director
the. Sir
of,
Henry
MS.,
his
xvi,
Index,
11;
his
Appendix,
14 . ii; Richard Wyche, senior, and his family connected with, 159, 161,
xviii 72. 3, Iviii, lix, 10, 147 n. i scope and length of his work, xv, 3, 7-1 1 ; aim of his work, 3-6; illustrations in his MS., Ix, 4; his account of his early original voyages lost, Ivii, Iviii, 2 his revision of his MS., Iviii, Ixii, 103 n. 5 ; his intention to re-copy his
;
165;
21
71.
rise of,
I.,
172
Mustafa
6,
MS.,
xviii, lix
MS.
Ivii-lxiii
accessuccessor, 22 n. i sion of, xxiv, 21,11 7t. 6; deposition of, xxiv, 21, 21 71. 6, 22 7t. I, 178; restoration of, 21 7i. 6, 22 n. 1 his incompetence, 22 ;?. i brother of Ahmad, 22 w. i; superseded by
; ;
Ahmad 's
Osman, 22
7i.
i;
imprisons
7t. 1
the
51,
of the travels
of, lix-lxii
Baron de Sancy, 43
Mundy,
father
Ixii, 2,
Mustafa Pasha,
51
71.
his
bridge,
Mundy,
xiii,
Ivii,
Penryn,
xiii
xiii,
;
takes Peter
Mundy
in
to
Rouen,
1
last
xiii;
mention
of,
Mundy's MS.,
of,
xiv
Mundy, Richard, third son of John Mundy of Rial ton, xiv; his connection with Peter Mundy discussed,
xiv
210; refuses to make over his bridge to Sulaiman, 52; builds and endows a khan at Burgas, 212 Mustafa Pasha Kuprusu, Pindar's party halt at, xxviii, xxxi, 51 ; story of the bridge at, xxxi, 51, 51 . 4; o:her names for, 51 7i. 4
4, 52,
Naima, A7mals
71.
of,
71.
referred to, 65
I,
71
71.
I,
75
great-grandson of Rialton, xiv; dies unmarried, xiv; his sister marries Hannibal Vivian, xiv Mundy, Robert, of Penryn, merchant, marriage of the daughter of, xiv, xv burial of, xiv Mundy, Thomas, son of Sir John Mundy, xiv; Prior of Bodmin, xiv; death of, xiv; his connection with Peter Mundy, senior, discussed, xiv Mundys, the, of Derbyshire and Leicestershire, xiv Mundys, the, of Penryn, xiii, xiv,
Narenta,
rapidity
river,
of,
3 xxxviii,
83
71.
4;
83
canal,
2
Naviglio-Grande,
the, xliii, xliv;
boats on
mistaken by
;
Mundy
Pindar's
Naxia, Naxos,
tiani
island,
of,
Caspar Gra-
made Duke
51
Neretria, Neretna,
XV
Mundys,
the, of St
Colomb
Minoi",
xiv, xxiii
Murad
.S9
IV., son of
21
n.
Ahmad,
25,
Osman,
6,
succeeds 25 . 2,
"
Murad, Thaddeus,
an
Armenian,
river. ^V^fNarenta Pindar's party pass, xlviii, 132, 132 71. 5; Mundy sees the English Channel from, 132 Neuvy-sur-Loire, Pindar's party pass, 121, 121 71. 5; between Cosne and Briare, 122 7t. 1 Nevers, Mundy's description of, xlvi, 120, I2r; other descriptions of, 121 71. i; bridge at, 120, 121 71. I ; Symonds' route from Paris to, route to 228; Symonds' 227, Roanne from, 228 71. 5; Symonds'
Neufchatel,
expenses
at,
235
travels with
Nevett, Richard,
grave, 215
Bar-
268
Newgate,
INDEX
Octavius Caesar,
siege of Salona by, 147, 147 n. 3 Oglio, river, Pindar's party cross
the, xliii, 105
reprieved prisoners in, to serve as soldiers, 92 n. 5 Newhaven, original name of, xviii
n. 4
Nice. See Nissa Nicea, river. See Nissava, river Nichols, John, his History of the County of Leicester referred to, xiv
n. 2;
Oil,
hood of Seville, xxii exported from Ayamonte and Castro Marin, xxiii
Old
his Progresses
of
King James
Olive
Nissa
referred to, 179, 179 n. i or Nisch, Pindar halts at, xxix, 69 roads near, patrolled by
;
68 n. 3, 205; dangers approach to, 69, 204, 205 castle and situation of, 6'9, 204
Janissaries,
in the
walls at, 69, 204; other spellings of the name, 69 n. 1, 204; neighbourhood of, infested by robbers, 69, descriptions of, 69 n. 2, 205 xxxiv, 69 n. 5, 151, 204; district on either side of, described, xxxiv, 70, 204, 205; under the government of Buda, 204 Nissava, river, bridge over the, xxxiv, 69, 69 n. 5; flows into the Morava, 204; separates Servia from Bulgaria, 69 71. 5, 204 Nissy, Lac de, 118 . i Norden, John, his Description of Cornwall referred to, xvii n. 3, xvii n. 6
;
Normandy, Mundy's
xviii,
to,
first
visit
to,
visit
]3,
24;
Mundy's second
Castile, 139, 142 n. i trees, abundance of, near Seville, xxii; near Spalato, xxxix, 86 Ombersley, Worcestershire, home of George Sandys, 192 n. 3 Orestes, son of Agamemnon, founds Adrianople, 155; story of, 155 . 7 Orge, river, 124 n. 1 Oria, river, 141 n. 4 Orient Express Railway, route of the, from Constantinople to Belgrade, xxviii, xxix Orleans, compared with Sophia, 62 Pindar's party reach, by n. I boat, xlvi, 120-122. 227 n. 2; cost of boat-hire from Roanne to, 120, 228; Mundy's description of, 122; statue of Joan of Arc at, xlvii, 122, 122 n. 7; other descriptions of, 122 n. 7; Mundy's brief stay at, xlvii, 123; coaches hired from, to Paris, xlvii, 123; road from, to Toury described, xlvii, 123, 123 n. 6 execution of two men near, xlvii, 123; Pindar's route from, to Paris,
; ;
138"
sails
Norris,
in
to, 11
uncle
the
123 w. 3; towns between and, walled, 130; Mundy's second visit to, 116 ;/. 5 Orleans, Duke of, his cousin killed, 124; his castle at Montargis, 227 Orpheus, Mundy's allusion to, 61 . 9; laments Eurydice, 152, T52 n. dismembered by the Thrac5, 209
xlvii,
Paris
Norway, Mundy
coast of,
xlvii,
1
sails
along
in
i,
pass,
Notre Dame,
xlviii,
130 n.
of,
223,
223 n.
treaty
4,
226
Earl
ratifies
105; description of the country from Venice to, 105 Orzi Vecchi, Pindar's party lodge at,
xliii,
Nottingham,
139 n. 4
105
Leicestershire, the
NouTeau Gnide
to,
Voyageur referred
106 n. 4 Novalese, Pindar's party lodge at, xliv, 112; situation of, 112, 112 n. 2, 1x5 n. 4; character of the inhabitants of, 112 n. 2; Symonds dines at, 233 Novara, Pindar's party dine at, xliv, loS Novibazar, 78 n. i
his Collection T., of Voyages referred to, 146 n. 5 Osman, eldest son of Ahmad, 22, 22 71. r ; deposes Mustafa, xxiv, 21 n. 6, 22, 22 71. I, 178; plans to change his capital, 22 7i. i; his plot frustrated, 22 7i. \ ; makes
peace with France, 43 71. i imprisoned and killed, 22 w. i Osman L, insignia conferred on,
;
Novi Khan.
See Yeni
Khan
64
71.
; ;
INDEX
Ossero, Pindar's party
sail to,
269
Orleans to, described, xlvii, 123 n. 6, 130; road from Angerville to, described, xlvii, Pindar's 124; party lodge in the Rue St Martin at, xlvii, 124; Mundy's description of, xlvii, xlviii, 124-130; bridges in, xlvii, 124, 125; Luxembourg palace in, xlvii, 126; Louvre in, described, xlvii, 126-128, 224,225; the Exchange in, xlvii, 129, 129 n. 4; coaches hired from, for Calais, xlviii, 130 Notre Dame at, description of, xlvii, xlviii, 130, 130 11. i Mundy's route to Beauvais from, xlviii, 131 n. 6; Gainsford's re;
88
Ousson,
121 n.
7
Pindar's
party pass,
i-zr,
Oxford, Earl of, the, acquires Pindar's copy of Mundy's early Travels,
Ix
Padua, boat
description description
from Venice
of,
of,
xlii,
99 n. i distance 99 n. 1 university at, xlii, 99 11. 2, 99 71. 5, 100, loo n. 2; inn at, xlii, 99, 99 . 3; Hall of Audience at, xlii, 99 n. 5 other descriptions of, 99 w. 5 Pindar hires caroches from, to Verona, xlii, 100; Thomas Humes remains at, xlii, loi; distance from, to Vicenza. loi . 2 Palais d' Orleans. See Luxembourg Palangha, a small fort or stockade,
from Venice
to,
Symonds' descripI, 223-227; the country between Beaumont and, Symonds' expenses, described, 222 to Turin from, 235 Parker, Charles, Mundy resides with,
on, 187
;
marks
tion
of,
217 n.
;
Pashas,
n.
X.
22
See also
in
s.v.
Pastimes
description
of, 58,
to,
7,
8,
lo
XXXV,
description of a, 68 n. i, 205; at Yagodin, Pindar's party halt at, 70; description of Hassan Pasha's,
71, 205; a, at Grotzka, 71; a, at Batotschina, 71 n. r; why erected,
Richard Lane
Pindar's party distance of, 82 from Sarajevo, 82 n. 5 other spellings of the name, 82 n. 5 Pears, Edwin, his note on Troy, 157
xxxviii,
;
;
or Pasarij,
Pantler,
1
a,
appointed
for
Pindar,
71.
10,
10 n. 2
halts at, 215
Pearson,
party
Papas-cue, Bargrave
Papasli,
of,
Pindar's
dine
at,
4,
179
71.
4
et
of,
xxviii, xxxi, n. 8
54
Poullet's spelling
Peine
fo7-te
dure,
5
71.
history
and.
54 Paratjin, Parachin Palanka, Pindar's party pass, xxix, xxxiv, 70 other spellings of the name, 70 n. 4, 204 Des Hayes halts at, 204 inhabitants of, 204 inscriptions on the old road between Rashan and, 204 Parenzo, residence of the Capitano
; ; ;
description
Penmaenmawr, compared
Cenis, 113 5 Pennington, Captain, 45
with Mt.
3
71.
Pennington, William,
Pindar's train, 43
member of
Penryn, Mundy's
XV, xvii,
Ixi, 13,
of Istria, xli n.
Paris, Pindar's party reach, xlvii, 42 Mundy's route from n. 5, 46 n. 3 Turin to, xliv-xlvii, 109 11. 3 Symonds' route from Turin to, 109 n. 3, 217 11. I ; coaches hired from Orleans to, xlvii, 123; road from
;
native town, xiii,. 24; Mundy's visits to, xvi, 1, liv, Ivii, 2, 137, 143, 144 ; Mundy revises and concludes his MS. at, xvi, Iviii, lix ; other Mundys in, xiv, xv ; a " free Schoole " at, xvii ; Mundy's remarks,
on, Ixii
Peons,
270
xxviii, 22 n. 2, 27, 29, 44,
INDEX
47 n.
i,
55, 153, 210; situation 210; descriptions of, xxxii, 9, 210; battles fought near, 54 54 n. 9 plague at, 59, xxxii road from Adrianople to, described, xxxi, 60, 210; Turkish name for, 154, 2To; Blount's description of,
built,
54,
of, 55,
71.
.155
Piastre, 18 n.
3,
;
26 n.
i,
27 n.
191
transit-boats,
of,
Peramees,
38,
2
;
196
other
Symonds' description
;
38 n. 2, rowed by Egyptians, 196 196 Persia, 4, 19 w.- 2 William Garraway agent in, liv ; treaty between Constantinople and, 65 n. i Des Hayes' mission to, 199 . 2 Persia, Emperor of. See Shah 'Abbas
; ;
;
description spellings of
38
n.
Piedmont, 148
Savoy,
108,
the
name,
under the Duke of boundary 109 n. 3 of, xlv, 113, 113 n. r, 233; language of the people of, xlv, 112 n.
;
2, 114,
233
castles
of,
on the
frontiers
of,
233, 234
title of eldest of Savoy, 109 n.
Peschiera,
n.
I
;
situation of, xlii, 104, 104 castle at, xlii, 104, 104 11. 2
his request
4, 116 n. I Pierrefitte, Pindar's party pass through, xlviii, 130; distance of, from St Denis, 130, 130 n. 6, 131
71. 6 Pilau, 37
for Downing's lodgings, 170 Peyton, Sir Henry, commands English soldiers at Zara, xl,
Pilchards,
with,
XV,
Mundy
1
;
goes to Seville
n. 3
visits
of,
Pindar
92 n. 3
de.
at
88 n. 4, 92 Venice, 92
account
trade in, from Cornwall, xvii, lii, 137; price of, at Barcelona, 137 ;. 6 Pillars at Constantinople. See
See Ferronerie,
Philiba. See Philippopolis Philip, of Macedon, builds Philippopolis, 54, 210 Philip II., King of Spain, invested with the Duchy of Milan, 105 n. his daughter marries Charles 8 Emanuel of Savoy, no it. 5; rebuilds the Plaza Mayor at Valladolid, T40 n. 6 born at Valladolid, T40 ti. I Philip III. of Spain, concludes peace with England, 139 n. 4; account of the rise and fall of the favourite of, 140 n. 2 Philip IV. of Spain, born at Valladolid, 139 ;/. 4 Philipot, John, his Perfect Collection of all Knights Batchelaurs referred
; ;
n.
daughter of 8; wife of
8
Thomas
Spike,
134
71.
Pindar, Paul, nephew of Sir Paul Pindar, travels with the ex-ambassador, 4r, 175 7t. 2 ; made free of the Levant Company, 41 71. 5 Pindar, Sir Paul, ambassador at Constantinople, 10, 14 ;?. 11, 23 . 171, 175; succeeds Sir Thos. 5, Glover, 175 applies for increased pay, 175, 176, 178; requests a preacher for Constantinople, 1 75 ; letters from, to the Levant Company, 14 71. II, 22 71. I, 175, 176, desires to resign his post at 177 Constantinople, 23 71. 5, 176; the Levant Company's opinion of, 176; increase of pay granted to, 177; complains of the treatment of the English by Ahmad, xxv, 177 ; recalled by the Levant Company, 177, 178; is succeeded by Sir John Eyre, xxvi, 179; leaves Constantinople, xxvii, 23, 36, 41, 178 ; his journey from Constantinople to
; ;
to,
179 n.
Philippic Fields, battles fought on the, 2 to; compared with 153, Marlborough Downs, 153 tumuli
;
;/.
i ;
location
xxxi,
London,
xxvii-xlix, 41-136,
178;
his train, xxvii, 41, 4?, 43; hires waggons for his servants and bag-
; ;
INDEX
gage, 44
xxxiii
; ;
271
money
his
guard to Adrianople,
his route to Belgrade, 45 Jt. 6, 199 n. I ; posts a watch round his camp, xxx, 46 ; his lodging-
Pinkerton, John,
place at Adrianople, 49, 49 ;/. 3 forbids his followers to enter Philippopolis, xxxii, 59 ; orders his party to dismount and arm, xxxii, 61 ; visits the Viceroy of Rumelia at
a
;
safe
conduct
forbears to "commandeer" provisions, xxxiv, 67 ; rewards the escort from Bela Palanka, 69 hires a house at Belgrade, 72 visits the ICazi at Belgrade, xxxvi, 72 hires horses from Belgrade to Spalato, xxxvi hires a house at Sarajevo, xxxviii, 81 his route to Spalato, xxxviii his short detention in quarantine, xxxix, xl, 87, 88 cost of his hired
;
his Collection of Voyages referred to, 146 n. 5. See also s.v. Pococke, Richard Pirates, Turkish, 16, 171, 176 Pirot or Sharkoi, Pindar's party halt at, xxix, xxxiii, the 66 Janissaries leave Pindar at, xxxiii, xxxiv description of, 66 ; other spellings of the name, 66 . 4, 206 Des Hayes dines at, 206 ; Turks retire to, 208 Pisieux, Pindar's party lodge at, xlviii, 131; abbey at, 131 ;/. 6
; ;
i,
235
xxxii,
house at Venice, xli, 91, 92 interchanges visits at Venice, xli, 92, 93 his route across Europe, xlii, 98-136, 214 n. 4; visits the sons of the Earl of Arundel, xlii, 100; exchanges visits with the Duke of
;
xliii, 106; his reception at Turin, xliv, 109, no; visits the family of the Duke of Savoy, xliv, no, no n. 6; meets the Duke of Savoy on Mt. Cenis, xlv, 113; receives a present from the Prince of Piedmont, 115, 116; despatches his attendants from Lyons, xlvi, 119; his route from Orleans to Paris, xlvii, 123 n. 3; his lodging in Paris, xlvii ; journeys from Paris to Calais by coach, xlvii, 130 ; is entertained by the Archbishop of Canterbury, xlix, 136 ; is met by
Feria,
Dover, xlix Mundy 136; his house at Islington, xlix the Court complain of the extravagance of, 178 his accounts ''considered," 178; knighted, 1 79 his house in Bishopsgate Street Without, xlix, 1, 136 ti.
his
kinsmen
at
takes leave
of, xlix,
;
59 ; at Constantinople, xxiv, 23, 23 n. 3, 40, 192 Plataea, battle of, 195 n. 4 Po, river, Pindar's party cross the, 109 . 5 Pococke, his route from Constantinople to Adrianople, 45 n. 6 his Description of the East referred to, see notes on pp. 46, 47, 48, 49, 60; his Travels [Add. MS. 22978) referred to, 129 n. 2, 133 n. 4 Poitiers, 116 n. 5, 128, 128 71. 4 Poix de Picardy, Pindar's party dine at, xlviii, 131; distance of, from Abbeville, 220 ; Symonds' description of the village and neighbourhood of, 220, 221 Pola, harbour at, xl, xli, 89, 89 n. 4 Poland, 68 n. 4 Mundy's travels in, xvi, I Bargrave's travels in, 215 Poll-tax, a, levied on Christians by the Turks, 16 n. i, 186 Polonia. See Poland Pompey, his contest with Augustus Caesar, 153, 154, 154 n. i
; ;
Pompey's
to
;
the
Law-
rence Greene's case referred to, 44 n. 6 ; recommends Mundy to the E. I. Co., 1 ; a copy of Mundy's
early voyages
Iviii, Ix, 2
;
left
with, xlix,
Ivii,
.179
his brother at 134; father of Paul Pindar, junior, 134 ji. 7, 175 n. 2;
Pillar, Mundy's visit to, XXV, 21, 24; situation of, 20, 191 Lithgow's description of, 20 71. 4 ; Plobhouse's description of, 20 7t. 4; I'emains of, now existing, 191 ti. 3; Sandys' description of, 197 ; a lighthouse near, 197 Pondicherry, Peter Wyche, junior, merchant at, 165 Pondormy. See Pont Remy Pont de Beauvoisin, at the boundary of Savoy, xlvi, 116 71. 5, 118, Pindar awaits his followers 230 at, xlvi, 118; Symonds' description
; ;
of,
230
2/2
Pont Neuf,
the, in Paris,
INDEX
Mundy's
Protestants, on the banks of the
Loire, 122
description of, xlvii, 125 ; other descriptions of, 125 n. 5; pump, clock and statue on, 125, 125 n.
5,
Prussia,
Iviii,
Mundy's
travels
in,
xvi,
227
in
Paris,
de-
I, 6,
Puerto
de
St
li,
Adrian,
14
for
Mundy
in
crosses the,
Punishments
Punta
offenders,
Pont Remy,
131 n. 9, 22C
xlviii,
;
Pindar's party lodge origin of the name, 131 bridge at, 221 Michel, in Paris, descripPont St tion of the, 125 n. I Porcupine, flesh of the, palatable,
xxiv, 19, 20
Promontore, Pindar's di party pass the, xl, 89 Purchas his Pilgrimage, referred to, Ivi, 26, 43 n. 2, 51 ;z. r, 62 n. 2 Purchas his Pilgrinies, referred to, see notes on pp. 27, 28, 31, 32,
3.S.
34>
.^7
35>
36.
37>
39'
47>
55-
Portsmouth,
Downing
14,
56,
24
Portuguese,
the,
the,
Mundy's
at
relations
Pyramid,
the
Egyptian,
n.
2
in
the
with, in China, 9
At-maidan, 33, 33
Aiguebelette,
Posthouse,
118,
118 n. 3; at Bourgoin, 118, 118 . 7; at Novalese, 112, 112 . -J, 233 n. 4; at La Verpilliere, xlvi, 118 ;"at Aiguebelle, 231 Posting, in France, 138, 139 Potarzeeke, situation of, 152, 154; plain of, 155 Pougues, country around, woody,
38 3
Quarantine,
at Spalato, rules as to, xxxix, xl, Iv, 86, 87 John Clarke released from, xl, 87, 91 //. 4
;
at,
PouUet, Le
Sieur,
his
235 Noimelles
Quatre Vents,
at,
Les,
Symonds lodges
Relations du Levant referred to, see notes on pp. 46, 47, 49, 51, 52,
54, 57, 60, 61, 62, 63, 66, 67, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73. 74' 82, 88; his route from Belgrade to Constan-
224
tinople, 45 n. 6
Pourbus,
11.
paints
the
portrait
Marie de Medici,
4
at
xlvii,
127,
of 127
Pratique,
of,
Leghorn,
17
definition
of,
17 n. 2; Dallam's account
;
Pindar's party granted, 2 87 ; Bargrave's difficulty in obtaining, 90 n. i Preface, Mundy's own, to his Travels, 2-6 See Peine Pressing to Death.
17 n.
xl,
xxix, 67 ; why deserted, 67 ; other spellings of the name, 67 n. 4; Des Hayes halts at, 205
of
Symonds lodges
in
Prologh Mountains,
the, Pindar's
History of the IVorld referred to, Ivi, 19 n. 2, 154 n. I Ram, the, at Aiguebelle, 116 Rama, river, Pindar's party follow the, xxxviii, 83, 83 n. 4, 83 n. 5
near,
Rama,
and Narenta
INDEX
Ramasser, meaning
71.
I
273
description
Rascia
Rashan
(Novibazar), 78 n. i or Razan, Pindar's party lodge in a khan at, xxix, xxxiv, 70;
of
of, 120 Pindar overtakes his attendants at, xlvi, 120; cost of boat-hire from, to Orleans, first navigable 120, 120 n. 3, 228 town on the Loire, 120 n, 2 Pindar's party take a boat from, to Orleans, xlvi, 122; boats hired from, sold at Orleans, 123, 228
2,
228
Rawlinson MS.
Ivii, Ix
;
maps
Rand.
by, 10 n. 3
MS. A. 414 (Sir Erasmus Harby's MS.), 160 n. 5, 163 n. 5 Rawl. MS. C. 799. See Bargrave, Robert Razvl. MS. D. 1 20 ( Travels in 1 648-9) referred to, see notes on pp. 91, 95,
96, 99, 102, 104, 107, 119, 120, 122, 129, 131, 133, 134, 138 Rawl. MS. D. 197. See Engletield, Sir Francis
precautions athe country between Philippopolis and Sophia, 61 travellers, how warned of, 61, 152, 209; among the Balkan Mts., n. 3, 61 151, 209; numerous, between Ikhtiman and Sophia, 62 ; on the road between Sophia and Nissa, xxxiii, 66, 205, 206 near Batotschina, 71 it. i ; punished by staking, xxxii, xxxv, xxxvi, 71, 72, 206 ; near Valjevo, xxxvi, 78, 78 It. 5, 149; among the Prologh Mts., xxxix, 84 Robbin, a cook, member of Pindar's
gainst,
Robbers,
Pindar's
xxxii;
infest
train,
43
Charles, his News from referred to, 17 n. 3, 19
the
2,
Robson,
Aleppo
n. 2
in w. 4,
i
112 n.
113 . 2
Rawl. MS. D.
at
See
Abdy,
Sir
Thomas
Ravirlinson, Thomas, becomes possessor of the Mundy MS., Ixiii R. B., his Epitome of all the Lives of the Kings of France^ &c. referred to, 125 . 5, 129 n. 2 Reichs Dollar, 27 Rhaetian Alps, 153 n. i Rhodes, Blount's Voyage to, 146 Rhodope, mountains, xxxi, xxxii, 61 n. 9; connection of the, with Orpheus, 152, 152 n. 5, 209; Des Hayes' remarks on the, 209 Rhone, river, irS n. 4; at Lyons, 119 n. 2, 119 71. 3, 229; w^ater mills on the, xlvi, 119, 119 n. 3, 149 ; rapidity of the, 229 Rialto, Ponte di, xlii, 28, 91, 97, 97 n. 5, 189; when built, 91 . 2;
description
of,
Constantinople, i\ n. 11, 41 . 3, 163; Lawrence Greene's case referred to, 44 n. 6 succeeds Sir John Eyre, 181 Roi, Rue de, Symonds lodges in, 223 Rokeby, Colonel, Symonds entertains his captains, 223 Romanja Planina, Pindar's party ascend the, xxxvii, 80 other spellings of the name, 80 n. 4 Rome, despoiled to adorn Constantinople, 192 Rosa Rossa, the, at Turin, 235 Roshneah. See Rashan
; ;
Rouen, Mundy's
of,
first
visit
to,
xiii,
24; description
xix,
xx
Mundy's second
;
visit
xviii
at,
xix
91 n. 2
xiv,
Roumania, 210; language of, 207; how separated from Servia, 209
Rovigno, 146
n.
i,
147 n.
Pindar's
of,
Ricardo, an
train at
party land
at, xli,
8q
governor
Padua, loi Richelieu, Cardinal, Des Hayes allied with the enemies of, 199 1 palace of, 224 besieges n. Montmelian, 230 Roanne, Pindar's party post to, from
;
entertains Pindar, xli, xli 7t. i, 89; situation and description of, 147 ; under the government of Venice,
H7
Royall Mary, the,
Mundy
sails
to
England
in,
xvi, Ivii, 8,
10
M.
274
Royall Merchant,
Constantinople
the,
in,
INDEX
Mundy
xv,
sails to
liii,
xxiii,
Mundy
3
14, 160, 174; passengers in the, xxiii; sailing orders of, 14 n. 10,
166-168; owned by Sir Morris Abbot, 15 71. r, 166; freight for goods on, 167 ; goods to be carried by, 167; charter-party of, 167; Joshua Downing commands, 167, 168; goods prohibited on, 167; measures taken for the protection
of,
St Innocents,
in Paris, bones in the churchyard of, xlvii, xlviii, 129, 129 7z. 2, 226; reported quality of the earth in the yard of, 129, 129
;
168
61 n.
i,
7Z. 3 Symonds' description of, 226; the burying-place of strangers, 226 St Jacque, Rue de, Symonds lodges
Rumelia,
211
;
62 n.
ti.
Viceroy
of, xxxiii,
ment
of,
211
Rusko
xvi,
Russia,
I,
Mundy's
travels
in,
ir; Richard Wyche, senior, trades to, 161; Des Hayes' mission to, 199 n. 2
9,
the Seraglio at Constantinople, 28, r88 compared with the gardens of the Louvre, 128 . i St Jean de Maurienne, Pindar's party lodge at, 115 description of, xiv, 115 . 6; a Bishop's See at, 116, 231; Mundy's commendation of, xiv, 117; Symonds' description
; ;
n.
6
Constantinople,
of,
231, 232
Sacra Porta.
harbour
S.
n. 6,
at
See
of, li, 141, 141 142 7Z. I S. Adrian, Mts. of, H, 141, 142 n. i S. Ambrosio, Symonds halts at, 233 description of, 233 S. Andrea, castle, situation of, 90 . 2 S. Andrea, Fort, at entrance to the lagoons of Venice, 89 . 8, 90 ;?. 2 S. Andrea del Lido, Pindar's party enter Venice by, xli, 89, 89 n. 8 S. Aubin-sur-Loire, Pindar's party pass, xlvi, 120, 228;?. 5 S. Benoit, Pindar's party pass, 122, 122 n. 3 St Brice, Pindar's party pass through, xlviii, 131, 131 71. 6; Du Verdier's name for, 131 w. i
Adrian, grotto
142,
St John Delio. See S. Andrea del Lido St John d'Ulloa, Mundy's intended voyage to, 6 ; situation of, 6 w. 2 St Lawrence. See Madagascar St Louis, picture of, in the Louvre,
225
St Lucas.
143, 144, 145 ; Mundy's description of, 143; tide at, 143, 143 7Z. 8, 143
how guarded, lii, 143, 143 144 n. I ; Mundy returns to, I44> 145 St Margaret's Church, Lothbury, Sir Hugh Wyche buried in, 158 S. Maria, a bell in the Giralda at
7Z.
7t.
10,
Seville, xxi,
xxi
7t.
St Mark's, square
Venice,
xli,
St Christopher's,
lodges
at,
in Paris,
Symonds
223 St Cloud, Symonds' visit to, 224 St Columb Minor, the Mundys of, xiv, XV St Denis, Pindar's party pass through, xlviii, 130, 131 . 6; Heylyn's description of, 130 7i. 5 abbey at, 222 Symonds visits, 224 St Denis, Rue, in Paris, 129 . 2, 226 St Dunstans-in-the-East, Richard Wyche buried in, 159; monument to Richard Wyche in, 159; Lady
;
;
and
124
See Archat,
5,
115; description
of,
115
71.
232
S. Nicolo, Fort, at entrance to the lagoons of Venice, 89 7i. 8, 90 7i. 2
of, at
Harby buried
in,
163,
164
140 7t. 3 ; rebuilt by Torquemada, 140 . 3 restored by the Duke of Lerma, 140, 140
71.
; ;
INDEX
S. Pietro da Castello, at the entrance to the lagoons of Venice, 90 n. 1 S. Romano, Military Gate, the Turks enter Constantinople by the,
275
193
li,
71.
T7-aveh, 192 . 3; life and works of, 192 71. 3 Sanita, Pindar's certificate of health inspected by the, 90 ; officer of the, at Venice, grants a pass to Pindar,
St Sebastian, Mundy
139,
arrives at,
1,
90
139
n.
3,
145;
Mundy
returns to, li, 141 ; route from, to Victoria described, 141, 142, 142
n.
I
goes
14,
;
24
Mundy
lives at,
with
;
Mr
at
St
Sophia,
mosque
of,
at
Con-
xviii,
XX
Duke
of
stantinople, 29, 30, 35, 195; description of, 35 n. 3, 185, 185 . I, 189, 194; view of Constantinople
dies at, xx
Saone,
119
Sa?-a2,
7t.
river,
2,
Lyons,
119,
229
ft.
from,
191
148
3
; ;
194
Company's chaplain at Constantinople, 23 71. 4 Salona, 85 n. 4; siege of, 147 71. 3 ; rebuilt, 147 . 3 Salt, brought to Belgrade, xxxv, 75; whence extracted, 75 . i Salter, Robert, escorts Pindar from Constantinople, 45, 47, 47 . i made free of the Levant Company, 45 . 5 ; owner of the Marga7'et,
;
45 5
Salter, William, Consul at Smyrna, 45 n. 5, 45 . 6 Saltingstall, Elizabeth, marries Richard Wyche, senior, 158, 159 Saltingstall, Sir Richard, Lord Mayor of London, his daughter marries Richard Wyche, senior,
Pindar's party 7t. 5 reach, xxxvii, 81 descriptions of, xxxviii, 81, 81 71. 3, 81 7t. 4, 82 . r, 82 . 3 ; people of, xxxviii, Iv, 81, 148; distance of, from Belgrade, 81 n. 2; castle at, xxxviii, 81, 81 71. 5, 148 other names for, 81 . 2 Blount's remarks on, 81 . 2, 146, 148; mosques at, xxxviii, 82 ; floating mills at, xxxviii, 82, 82 7i. 3 ; horses hired at, xxxvii, 82 ; description of the country beyond, xxxvii, Mostar, to railway from, 82 derivation of the xxxviii, 83 . 4 name, 148 n. 3; unpopularity of Europeans at, xxxvii, 81 ; time occupied in the journey from Beldifficulty of the grade to, xxxvii journey from, to Spalato, xli Sardica. See Sophia Sardinia, 15 ;z. 7 Saros, rock-salt obtained from, 75
; ;
;
Sarajevo, 83
7i.
Save,
river,
4,
68 .
159 Saltpetre, 8
158,
78 w.
80,
71.
Sa7narita7t, the, of
Dartmouth, 42
of,
. 2
150, 150
2
of,
Samos,
. 4
Blount's description
situation
157
Savoy, map
;
in
Mundy's MS.,
Sancerre,
122 w.
3
I
of, 122, 121, Protestant stronghold at, xlvi, 121, 228; description of, 121
;
71.
6 71. I, 112 7z. 2, 115 7z. 1, 115 . 6, ambassador from, to 118 71. 2 hostilities between Venice, xli, 93 Spain and, no 7t. 5 boundary of, xliv, xlv, 113, 113 7t. I, 1x6 71. 5,
;
Sancy, Baron
at
de,
of,
French ambassador
43
7t. I
118,
230,233; Symonds'
;
travels-in,
Constantinople,
^-
imSee
prisonment
43
Sanderson, John,
Voyage
of.
Purchas His Pilgri?nes Sandys, Edwin, Archbishop of York, father of George Sandys, 192 n. 3
bishoprics in, 233 Savoy, Duke of, his family, xliv his ambassador at Venice, 93 . 4 ; extent of his territories, 108, 108 7t. 5 ; absent from Turin on Pindar's
217, 230-233
Sandys, George,
to,
see
notes on pp.
26, 30, 31, 32, 35, 38, 56, 87, 102; Mundy quotes from his work, Ivi,
lix,
meets Pindar on Mt. 113; his heir, xlv; see also s. v. Charles Emanuel. Savoyards, language of the, 114, 114 71. 2, 115, 115 . I, 230, 231,
arrival, 109 Cenis, xlv,
;
26,
192-198;
full title
of his
233
the, suffer
from
goitre,
7 . 5
;;
2/6
Scanderoon,
touches
at,
INDEX
Servians
(Bulgarians), Mundy's description of, Iv Sestos, castle, on the European side of the Dardanelles, 157, 157 n. 2,
197,
146 n. i ; Mundy 15 n. 4, 16, 24, 166, 167, 174; the seaport of Aleppo, xxiv, 19 ; unhealthiness of, xxiv, 19; situation of, xxiv, 19; wild beasts at, 19; Levant Company's representative at, 19 n. i ; Dallam's description of, 19 . 1; Robson's description of, 19 . 2 ; location of battlefields near, 19 n. 2 Scio, an English Consul at, i6 . 4, 44 71. 6 Richard Wyche trades to,
;
198
Seven Towers,
;
the, at Constantinople, 27,29,31, 184, 189; situation various descriptions of, of, 31 . 2
31 n. 2, 184, 187;
Baron de Sancy
t
;
treasure
161;
97 n.
in,
4,
145
;
Mundy
14
;
learns
Wyche
168
164
the
v(>,
Royall
166, 167,
Merchant bound
to,
Sclavonia, 146, 147 n. 4 Scroles, Henry, nephew of Joshua Downing, 1 70 Scroles, Jasper, nephew of Joshua Downing, 170 of Joshua Scroles, sister Mrs, Downing, 170 Scutari, 30, 65 n. i, 191, 194
situation of, 197; tower at, 197 Seale, Humphrey, beadle to the Levant Company, 42 n. 4 Seale, Mr, travels in Pindar's train, 42 Seine, river, bore at the mouth of
the, xviii, xix
;
Giralda at, Mundy goes to, XX, 97, 137 . 5 xiii, xv, 1, 137 ; with pilchards, Mundy resides with Mr Weaver at, XV ; Mundy's description of, xx-xxii fertility of the surroundings of, xxii
Spanish
xviii,
ceremony
King
peace with Turkey, 65 his envoy, 65 it. i Shdhi, a coin, 76 11. 4 Shah Jahan, emperor, 4 . 3 his entry into Agra, 8 his garden, 8 Shakespeare, William, his Winter's
; ;
;
Tale referred
Shamberly.
Sharkoi.
Selibrea, Selymbria. See Silivri Selim L, mosque of, 35 n. 4 ; his treasure kept in the Seven Towers, 185 defeat of, by Bayazld H., 212 Selim IL, 185; injures the Column of Serpents, 33 11. i probably Blato, Semaroromo Mundy's "great lake," xxxix, 84
;
Sherbet, manufacture
of, 63, 65 71. 3 Shirley, Sir Thomas, imprisoned by the Turks, 50 n. 2 Sian, Pindar's party dine at, xliv, 109; distance of, from Turin, 109
71.
Sicily,
16,
17,
17
71.
n.
Sigismund HL,
de,
Symonds
of Poland, intrigues with Caspar Gratiani, 51 7t. 3; his forces defeated at Jassy, 51 3
lodges in the, 223 Sequins, 18 w. 3, 166, 177, 186; value of, 26 n. 2, 27 ; Venetian, value of, 119 n. 6 Seraglios, at Constantinople, 25, 26,
27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 35 71. 5, 39 184, 187, 188, 189, 194, 197,
at
11.
Silivri, 34 .
I,
198;
73 . 4; road from Constantinople to, 46 7t. 2 ; Pindar's party encamp near, xxviii, xxx, 47; descriptions of, 47 71. 3, 156, 212, 213; other spellings of the name, 47 71. 3, 156 ; antiquity of, xxx, 2r3, 215
i,
Adrianople, xxx, 49, 49 n. 4, 211 Serio, river, 106, 106 k. 2 Serpents, infest Constantinople, 33 71. I ; Column of, 33, 33 . i, 185 Servia, 68 . 4, 69 71. 5, 201 ; Belgrade on the confines of, 199 ; Nissava separates Bulgaria the Christians in, 205 from, 204 cheapness of provisions in, 205 with Bulgaria, 206 compared
156,
;
Silver
n. 4
Lion,
the,
at
Calais,
133
63
67
of
whom
composed, 67
at Adrianople, 211
INDEX
Sittingbourne, Pindar's party reach,
xlix,
at,
;
277
135;
Symonds
passes tlarough,
218
Skinners'
the
cost of horse-hire from 1 7 . 2 Sarajevo to, xxxvii, 82 ; situation of, 82 71. 4, 86, 86 71. 3, 147; route from Sarajevo to, xxxviii, 83 n. 4;
to Turin, 84 7t. 4, 136; cultivation of the country surrounding, xl, 86 ; lazaretto at, xxxix, xl, 86 ; derivation of the name, 86 71. 3 ruins of castles at, 86, 86 71. 4; Count of, entertains Pindar, xl, 88 fortification of, 88, 148; under the Venetians, 147; uselessness of the harbour at, 147, 148 ; tribute paid to the Turks at, 147, 147 71. 4
;
Slade, Captain James, commander of the Koyall Mary, 8, 10 Slomie AISS. referred to, 811, see Bell, Richard; 2142, see notes on
PP- 17. 93> 99. 104> ^25, 127, 128, 1321 153; 4217) see notes on pp. 114, 116, 118; 4223, see 218
71.
Smith, John,
escorts
Pindar from
with
the
Constantinople, 45, 46
learns
Smyrna, Smyth,
119, 119
to,
71.
8,
123, 235
wills at, referred
71.
Somerset House,
158 n.
71.
4,
160
71.
t,
162
71.
7t.
2,
163
7t.
3,
164
71.
4,
170
I,
179
5,
182
Somme,
105 105
;
river, 131 w. 9,
138 . 4
pass,
xliii,
Sophia, Sofia,
65, 71 w. i; Pindar's party reach, xxix, 62 ; descriptions of, xxxiii, 62 . I, 151, 152, 206, 207, 208; other names for, 62 71. i,
;
207 situation of, xxxii, 63, 207, 209 description of the country from, to Nissa, 66, 66 . 2, 206, 208 Christian villages in the neighbourhood of, 206 climate of, 207, 208 residence of the Viceroy of Rumelia, between xxxiii, country 208
;
14 Spanyi, his painting of Clissa, 85 7t. 4 Spike family, the, connected with the Pindars, 134 . 8 Spike, Lawrence, travels in Pindar's train, 42 recommended as a purser, 42 71. I ; his connection with Pindar, 134 7t. 8 Spike, Thomas, meets Pindar at Dover, xlix, 134, 134 . 8 ; husband of Elizabeth Pindar, 134 7t. 8 Spread Eagle, the, at Orzi Vecchi, xliii, 105, 105 71. I Srebreniza, site of the ancient silver mines, xxxvii, 80 71. 3 Staking, a punishment for robbers, xxxii, XXXV, xxxvi, 55, 71, 71 . 7, 206; description of, Iv, Iviii, 55; illustration of, various 55, 58; accounts of, 55 ti. 4 Stamboul. See Constantinople Stamo, a Greek, member of Pindar's train, 44; left at Adrianople, xxx, xxxi, 50 Stampes, Mr, his journey to Con;
stantinople,
73
71.
4
^^, 64
;
Standards, Turkish,
and, infested by Philippopolis robbers, xxxii, 209 Sorbonne, College, 224 South Seas, 6 ; places included in the term, 5 71. i Spain, trade between Cornwall and,
xvii;
I
;
Archives,
re-
on pp.
xxiii,
xxvii, 15, 22, 41, 42, 44, 45, 92, 93, 100, 106, 108, 134, 138, 141, 159,
xli,
93
territory in Italy,
rule of,
105,
105
between
Savoy
163, 164, 166, 175, 176, 177, 178, 180, 181 Stow, John, his Su7-vey of Lo7tdon referred to, 59 71. i, 159 . 4 Stowe AfSS., 180 referred to, 73 . 4;
peace concluded between England and, 139 71. 4 Spalato, 49 11. 4, 84 71. I, 85 71. 5, 91 71. 4, 92 71. 3; pratique observed
to
2/8
Strawberries, abundance
of,
INDEX
on the
Symonds, Edward
father of Richard n. I, 218 . 5
way
Pindar from Constantinople, 44 treasurer to the Levant Company at Constantinople, 44 n. I Stromboli, I. and Mt., Mundy's
description of, xxiv, 17, 18; Lithgow's description of, 17 n. 3; Robson's description of, 17 11. 3; Bell's description of, 17 n. 3
Symonds,
Edward,
brother
of
Richard Symonds, 218 n. 5 Symonds, John, brother of Richard Symonds, 218 n. 5 Symonds, Richard, his Note-books {Hurl. MSS. 943 and 1278) referred to, see notes on pp. 105, 109,
III, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 127, 129, 130, 131, 132, 134, 135; quotations from his note-lDOoks, 217-235;
no.
Struys, John,
his Voyages
and Travels
quoted, 17 . i, 18 ;?. 3, 20 n. 2 Styria, 68 n. 4 SuQuraz, a Venetian castle, 85, 85 n. 5 ; situation of, 85 . 5 Sulaiman, Sultan, xxx, 31 n, i, 35 11. 4, 35 n. 5, 48 n. 3, 62 n. 1 the Magnificent, his altercation with Mustafa Pasha, 52; his conquests in Hungary, 52, 52 . i, 149, I49 n. 4, 201 ; his mosque at Adrianople, 156, 211; enlarges the aqueduct at Constantinople, 184, 195; mosque of, at Constantinople, 189 Sully, Pindar's party pass, 122; description of, 122 n. 2 Sultans of Turkey. See Grand Signior
;
contents
ti. 11.
I
;
i; birth
n.
217 217 his only published MS., 217 his notes of expenses during
of
his
note-books,
and parentage
of,
235
Talismans,
n.
I,
in
2,
Constantinople,
33
Sumatra,
Silinpdreh, red
Surat, Mundy's voyage to, xvi, 7, 10; events at, during Mundy's stay, Mundy's journey from Agra to, 7
;
35 n. 2 Tarare, Pindar's train post to, xlvi, 119; description of, 119 71. 7, 229; cost of horse hire from Lyons to, 119, 119 ??. 8; Symonds' remarks on the country between Roanne and, 229 Tatar Bazarjik, Pindar's party dine Poullet's deat, xxix, xxxii, 60 other spellscription of, 60 n. 4 ings of the name, 60 n. 4 ; Des Hayes' description of, 209 ; Khan
; ;
34 n.
8;
at,
209
11.
Taurus, mountain,
i
Surendeh,
Tavernier,
Travels
ti.
Swabia, 201
Swally, the " Mareene " at, 8 Sw^anley, Captain Richard, commander of the yonah, 7
I I, 64 n. Tavira, Mundy
Tayfoo,
river,
at the
9,
mouth
xxii,
mission
to,
199
11
Taylor,
in
Major John,
5,
his
Travels
Swinging,
Turkey,
how
practised,
referred to, 66 n. 4, 69 n. 2, 99 w. 3,
first
Pindar,
I
no;
origin
of,
ixo
re-
14
n. \\
Symes,
Randall), accompanies Pindar to Vicenza, xlii, 100, loi; employed by the Levant Company, xlii, 100 n. 5 Symonds, Anna, mother of Richard
(or
Randolph
43
acts
as inter-
Teutamos, Eumenes
n.
I
. 5
sister of
Thames,
Richard
river, xlix
Symonds, Anne,
Thebes, 188
Theiss,
river,
. 5
75 n. 3
INDEX
Theobalds, Captain Henry,
Pindar at Venice,
prisoners sent to,
;/.
279
gives
extracts
in his CoUcctio7is
visits
92
as
reprieved
from for
soldiers,
92
i, 35 sets up a column at 2, 48 . 3 Constantinople, 195, 195 n. 3 Thermopylae, Mundy's idea of its located by n. 6; situation, 61 Blount, 152, 152 71. 6, 153, 154
;
Theodosius, Emperor,
32 n.
the Histo7y of Co7'/rd'all, Ixii Top-Khdiia, the, at Constantinople, ordnance at, 39, 39 71. 2, 197; descriptions of, 39 71. i, 191 Torquemada, Cardinal Juan, rebuilds S. Pablo, 140 71. 3 Torre di Confini, loi 7t. 4 Totnes, Mundy's father apprenticed
at,
xiii
71.
Thessaly,
154
i7tto
146,
151,
152,
152 w.
5,
"
Thevenot, Monsieur
the
Levant referred
notes on pp. 21, 31, 32, 33, 37, 38, 39 52> 53> 56, 57. 58. 81 Thieves. See Robbers Thomas-Francis, Prince of Carignan, son of the Duke of Savoy, iro 71. 6 Thorneton, Captain, Englishman, residing at Abbeville, 132
To7ir ill Fra/ice a7id Italy., A, referred to, see notes on pp. 99, 107, 117, 125, 128 Tournefort, N., his Voyage i7ito the Levant referred to, see notes on
pp.
20, 32,
71.
Tournon, Rue
126
I
126,
at, xlvii,
6
at Brescia, xliii, the,
Tower, The,
104
71.
104,
Thou
183,
[tugh),
64
71.
Trajan Gate,
152
;z.
6t
71.
Thrace,
5,
155,
Three Blackamoors,
pajon (Chatres),
Avigliana, xliv,
xlvii,
the,
at
Arat
124
the,
at
Tremogh,
in;
;
115
xlv,
at
Lyons, 119
the,
at
Three Kings,
at
Cornwall, residence of the Worths, Ixiii Triana, a suburb of Seville, xxi, xxi
71.
I 71.
Trilj, 85
114; at Lyons, 119 7i. 5; at Milan, xliii, 106, 106 71. 4; at Novara, 108, 108 7i. 3 at Vicenza,
;
Trimontium.
See Adrianople
Trois Carreaux, Les, at Nevers, 235 Troy, supposed site of, xxiv, 20, 20
71.
xlii,
loi
2,
Three
Paris,
xliv,
Mores
223
112
Heads,
the,
in
of,
site
Truro,
the, at Bussoleno,
of,
Three Pigeons,
Tiberiopolis.
147
71.
Turbans,
153
xlii,
See Sarajevo
84
71.
capital of Pied-
mont,
107
71.
Pindar's
xliv,
Tierney, M. A.,
100
71.
his
109 71. 3, 116; Pindar's reception at, xliv, xlv, 109, no; Coryat's description of, 109 71. 3; Mundy's route to Paris from, 109 71. 3; distance of, from Sian,
xliv,
109,
Tillart, Pindar's party pass through, I3i> 13' n. 5 Ti77ies Newspaper, the, reference to Garraway's coffee-house in, 14 .
II
71.
Tokely,
visits
Pindar at
71.
habitants at, gallery at, xliv, in, in 71. 2, in 71. 3, 234; Pindar's escort from, III ; route over Mt. Cenis to, 112 71. I horses hired from, to Lyons,
;
3,
Tondja, river, 156, 156 i, Tonkin, Thomas, his remarks on gives the Peter Mundy, xiii, Ixii name of Mundy's father, Ixii states
211
;
;
that
Mundy
119; Symonds' journey from to, 2 1 7-235 country around, described, 233, 234; the Duke's stable at, 234; "walks" in compared with those at Calais, 234 cost of horse hire from Lyons
xliv,
Dover
; ;
28o
to, at,
INDEX
235 235
;
Turkey, Mundy's
map
of,
in
6 n. I, 30 . 2 distances in, how reckoned, 136, 136 n. 8; Sandys' Travels in, 192 n. 3 travelling in, the night chosen for, 212; punishamusements ments in, Iv, 55-58 in, Iv, 58, 59 Turkey Company. See Levant
; ;
;
Lerma buried at, li, 140, 140 . 3 chief buildings at, li, 140, 140 n. 6, Mundy stays four 141, 141 n. I months at, li, 141, 162; salt evaporated near, 142 Valtellina, contest for the, 153, 153 n. I situation of the, 153 n. i neutrality of the, assured, 153 . i murder of Protestants in the, 153
; ; ;
n.
J^e^a,
Vega de
15
;?.
of the,
3,
47 n.
xxi, xxii
Venetian Arms,
xlii,
the,
at
Lonato,
103
conduct of, at a feast, 37; their usage of Christians, Ivii, 67, 67 7i. 3, 67 n. 5, 68, 68 71. 3, 152, 205, 206; take Candia from the Venetians, Blount's remarks on, 146 91 n. 6 Sir their attempts on Zara, 147 John Eyre's unpopularity with, 181; destroy the Kerkoporta, 193 n. 2; build mosques, khans, bridges, etc.
;
as
acts
of reparation,
212,
213,
216
the, 29,
189
the, their quarrel with the Bosnians, xxxvii, 81, 81 . 6; watch-towers erected by, xxxix, 87; Su9uraz taken from, 85 Spalato under the rule of, 85, 86, 147 Venice, part of Dalmatia under the rule of, xxxix, 85, 86 ; John Clarke hires a house for Pindar at, xl, xli, sanitary laws of, xli, 87 87, 91 n. I, 90 . I ; Zara under the rule of, 88 7Z. 3, 148 ; Pindar's party reach, xli, 89, 136, 214 n. 4; arsenal at, xli, 89 n. 6, 93-97, 97 n. I castles at entrance to, xli, 90 ft. 2 natural defences of, go n. 2 Coryat's description of, 91 ti. i Bargrave's description of, 91 n. i nobility at, xlii, 91, 91 n. 5; Eng; ;
; ;
Venetians,
Uscocs,
n. 6
Usundji, Utrecht,
xxxi
Milan to
of the Duke of Lerma, supplants his father, 140 n. 2 Uzunjova or Usunchobi, Pindar's party dine at, xxviii, xxxi, 54 ; other spellings of the name, 54 . i
Uzeda, son
92 n. 3, 92 93 7Z. 2 ; ambassadors at, xli, 93 ceremonies at, on Ascension Day, xli, 95, 96 . i ; bridges at, xlii, 28, 97, 97 71. 5, 97 K. 6 gondolas at, xlii, 97, 98 St Mark's
7t.
at,
xli,
97, 97
of, xli,
Mundy's description
98
1,
;
xlii,
Pindar's
party
leave,
re-
xlviii,
98
Randolph Symes
;
Valdogosto, 88
Valentinian,
3'.
;?.
aqueduct at Constantinople, 48 w.
195
;
turns to, 101 post-road from, to Milan, loi ;z. 4; description of the country from, to Orzi Nuovi, xliii, 105 extent of the territories of, 105, 105 . 7, 106 ; Blount's
;
voyage
to,
146
Venice, Doge
89
6
5
7i.
7
Iv,
Vera Cruz,
71.
7i.
Vercelli, siege
6,
of, xliv,
;
108, 108
Chancery Court at, xvi, li, 139, 145 ; Mundy's description of, li,
^39' 139
'^'
4)
140;
;z.
rise of,
in im;
portance, 139
5,
140
i
;
7i.
names
for,
140 .
the
Duke
other of
of Savoy, xliv, 108, 108 ?i. 5 taken by the Spaniards, 108, ro8 7z. 6 ; surrendered to Savoy, 108 . 6; re-taken by the Spaniards, 108 w. 6
71.
;
no
under the
Duke
INDEX
Vermilion, Mundy takes a consignment of, to Patna, 8 Verona, caroches hired to, from
water-mills Padua, xlii, 100 72 n. 4; amphitheatre at, xlii,
;
281
at
Viziers,
duties,
to,
Constantinople,
7t.
their
36
at,
lix,
102, 102 n. I, 102 11. 1, 103, 103 71. 4; inns at, loi, loi n. 5; distance from Vicenza to, loi n. 6; description of, loi, 102 n. i
loi,
Wyche
buried
at,
Vulcan,
I.,
17 . 3
Viana. See Avigliana Vicenza, Pindar's train lodge xlii, loi distance from Padua
;
at, to,
Wadmore,
159
71.
J. F., his
Company of
I
101 n. 2
11.
Waggons,
nople,
hired
xxvii,
44
Constantidischarged at
no 71. 4 ; heir of the Duke of Savoy, no . 6; sends a present to Pindar, 116, ri6 w. i Vienna, Sulaiman the Great desires Des Hayes the subjugation of, 195 travels via, to Belgrade, 214 . 4 Villa Nuova, Pindar's party dine at, xlii, roi ; situation of, loi 7Z. 4 Villiano. See Avigliana Vilna, Mundy's intended journey to, 6 Vincentio. See Castello, Vincentio
xlv, Iv,
;
Wake,
Belgrade, xxxvi, 72 hired from Dover to Gravesend, xlix Sir Isaac, English ambassador at Turin, xliv, 109, 109 n. 7 ; his reception of Pindar, xliv, 109 knighted, 109 71. 7 ; escorts Pindar from Turin, xliv, in
travels in, xvi, 9, 11
Wales, Mundy's
Wallachia, 201
Vineyards, in Northern Italy, Mundy's description of, xliii, 105 ; Symonds' description of, in France and Italy, 105 Jt. 4, 229, 233, 234
Vitri,
kills the marechal d'Ancre, 129 71. I Vittoria, Mundy's visit to, 1, li, 139, 139 . 2, 139 71. 3, 141 ; George Wyche imprisoned at, 1, li, 139,
his description
Ix, Ixi
Wardeman,
Joachim, his ship taken by Mainwaring, 92 7i. 5 W^ater-mills, at Lyons, 119, 119 71. 3, 149; at Belgrade, 73, 119, 119 71. 3, 149; at Sarajevo, 82; on the Loire, 122 Watts, Thomas, master of the Expedition,
7
139 n. 3
lives with,
4, 14
xx
71.
ber of the East India Co., 15 w. 2 son of Hannibal Vivian, xxiii apprenticed to Sir Morris Abbot,
xxiii
;
made free of the Levant 71. 4 Company, xxiii 7t. 4 Vivian, Hannibal, of Trelewarrein, father of Roger and Charles Vivian,
xxiii
a church in Beauvais compared with, 221 Westminster Hall, compared with the Hall of Audience at Padua, 99
71.
Westminster Abbey,
Whetenall,
71.
Vivian, Hannibal, son of Hannibal Vivian, senior, xv marries Richard Mundy's sister, xv his brothers
; ;
W^hite
71.
Lion,
Sea,
the,
at
Lyons,
119
to,
White
the,
Mundy's voyage
sail
to
Royall
ber of the Levant Company, 15 71. 1 ; son of Hannibal Vivian, xxiii; travels with Sir Thomas
Wiccia, a province of Mercia, the name Wyche derived from, 158 W^iche, James. See Wyche, James Wiches, Old English name for saltpits,
158
with
the
81
ti.
6,
85
71.
4,
85
71.
5,
86
282
Willbraham, Thomas,
prenticed
to,
INDEX
factor,
Wyche,
in-
Sir Cyril, great grandson of Sir Peter Wyche, 163 ; becomes a baronet, 163; title extinct on the
death
of,
165
in Pindar's
made
free of the
Levant
41 n. 7; leaves and rejoins Pindar's party, 44, 48 ; allows Thaddeus Murad to return to Constantinople, xxxvi, 76; accompanies
Company,
Wyche,
Mundy
Winge,
at
in Paris, xlvii,
124
visit to, xvi
wife of Henry Wyche, 164 W^yche, Edward, 8th son of Richard Wyche, senior, 14 n. 9, 159, 160, 161 n. 2; known by Mundy, liv
escorts Pindar from Constantinople, 45, 47, 47 n. I, 164; merchant at
160 Dorothy,
Winchester, Mundy's
Padua, loi,
-loi
11.
Withers, Robert,
42
v.
Wolstanholme,
Lane
n. 2
Payes
case of
to,
42
Constantinople, 164 ; made free of the Levant Company, 164 ; returns to Constantinople, 164, 165 ; goes to Scio, 164; dies, 161 w. 2, 164, 164 n. 4 Wyche, Elizabeth {nk Saltingstall), wife of Richard Wyche, senior, 160, 161; death of, 161; will of, 161
Women's
Bdzdr
Court,
See Avret-
W^yche,
EHzabeth,
2nd
daughter
Woodhouse,
free of the H. 3
Levant Company, 44
Captain
Woolwich,
Downing
in-
of Richard Wyche, senior, 159, 160, 161, 163; marries Job Harby, 163 ; death of, 163 where buried, 163; bequests of, 164 Wyche, George, 4th son of Richard Wyche, senior, 14 n. 9, 159, 160, 161 ; Mundy's acquaintance with,
;
li,
139,
in. 1,6 n. I Worth family, the, possessors of the Mundy MS., Ixiii; Mundy's
Worth,
Worth,
Ixiii
Worth, John,
Wotton,
of Tremogh,
Sir Henry, English ambassador at Venice, 108 n. 6 Wyche family, the, Mundy's connection with, xxvi, liii, 14 11. g, T56 71. 7; account of, 158-165; originally settled in Worcestershire, 158; derivation of the name, 158; genealogical table oi, facing p. 158 Wyche, Abigail, 5th daughter of
pre-
165; brother of Richard Wyche, 139; legacy to, 162, 163, 164 Wyche, George, grandson of Sir Peter Wyche, 165; a merchant at Pondicherry, 165 Wyche, Henry, 1 1 th son of Richard Wyche, senior, 159, 160, 164, 165; Mundy acquainted with, liv; marries Dorothy 164; family of, 164 Wyche, Sir Hugh, mercer. Lord Mayor of London, 158; buried in Lothbury, 158; will of, 158; ancestor of Richard Wyche, senior, 158 Wyche, Jacob, brother of Richard Wyche, senior, 158; member of the Skinners' Company, 158 ; will 139 n.
3,
162,
Wyche,
of,
162
Wyche,
Wyche,
Wyche,
Anne, 4th daughter of Richard Wyche, senior, 159, 164; legacy from her father to, 160 marries Mr Charleton, 164 Wyche, Bernard, grandson of Sir Peter Wyche, 165; merchant in the East India Co.'s service, 165
James, Mundy takes service under, xv, xxiii, liii, liv, 10, 14; 7th son of Richard Wyche, senior, xxiii, 14 n. 9, 159; goes to Constantinople on the Roy all Merchant, xxiii, XXV, 14, 160, 175 ; dies of small-pox, XXV, 23, 136, 160, 165 Wyche, James, a Director of the East India Company, 160
INDEX
Wyche, Wyche,
Wyche,
Jane, daughter of
283
Mundy
i37>
Henry
1, liii,
liv,
Wyche, 164
Jeane, daughter of Richard
junior,
161 Wyche, JuHus, 9th son of Richard Wyche, senior, 159, t6o, 164, 165; Mundy acquainted with, Uv will
;
of,
162, 163,
Wyche, Lady
wife
64, 164 n. 4
{nee Meredith),
Jane
Peter
of
Sir
Wyche,
163
164
Wyche,
Mary, 3rd daughter of Richard Wyche, senior, 159; preson of Richard Wyche, senior, 159, 160, 164 Mundy acquainted with, liv a director of the East India Co.,
; ;
;
Wyche,
138 n. 2, 156 71. 7, 162; brother of James Wyche, 137 n. 7 executor to his father's will, 161 ; sends Mundy to Spain, 1, lii, 138, 161, 162 ; sends Mundy to Colchester, 143; illness and death of, li, 143, 162; family of, 162; bequests to the children of, 164 Wyche, Richard, eldest son of Richard Wyche, junior, provided for by his grandmother, 161, 162 ; at India Co. serves the East Bantam, 1 62 Richard Wyche, Samuel, 5th son of Wyche, senior, 159; predeceases his father, 160 Wyche, Susanna, eldest daughter of
;
164, 165 ; president of Surat, liv, dies at Surat, liv, 165 165 Wyche, Sir Peter, 6th son of Richard
senior, 159, 160; his diplomatic post in Spain, 163 knighted, 163 ambassador at Constantinople, 156, 163, 165; Blount's visit to, 156; offers employment to Mundy, marriage and family liv, 156 n. 7 of, 163, 163 n. 4 Wyche, Sir Peter, junior, son of Sir Peter Wyche, 163 Wyche, Peter, grandson of Sir Peter
;
;
Wyche, Thomas,
Wyche,
Wyche,
Mundy
made
free of the
Wyche, 162
senior,
Wyche, WiUiam,
Wyche,
his father,
Wyche, 165
brai,
a merchant at
Cam-
165
160 Wyche, William, nephew of Richard Wyche, senior, 160 Wyche, William, son of Henry Wyche, 164
Wyche,
164,
165 Wyche, Richard, father of Sir Hugh Wyche, 158 Wyche, Richard, of Davenham, father of Richard Wyche, senior,
Xerxes,
Wyche,
158 Richard, senior, a London merchant, 14 . 9; known to Mundy, liv son of Richard Wyche, of Davenham, 158; marries Elizabeth Saltingstall, 158, 159; family of, liv, 158, 159, 160; member of the Skinners' Co., 158, 159; connected with the East India Co.,
;
tion of the, xxii his encounter with Leonidas, 152 n. 6; musters his army on the plain of Adrianople, 156; his
157,
Yadra,
river.
See Jadar
Yagodin
Pindar's or Jagodina, party halt at, xxix, xxxiv, 70, 70 n. 7 ; 2l palangha at, xxxiv, 71 . i description of, 70 n. 7, 203 ; Des
Hayes halts at, 203 Yard, John, factor in the East India
Co.'s service, 7 See Seven Towers, the pass party Pindar's Yelkeeoy, location and modem through, 61 name of, discussed, 60 n. 5 Yengheekeoy. See Yeni Khan
Yedi Kule.
284
INDEX
Zara, Pindar's party
sail past, xl,
Yengi cheri, new soldiery, janissaries, 43 2 Yengi kyuy, the new village, 60
n.
88
Yeni Khan
party halt
or
at,
Novi Khan,
Pindar's
a garrison of English soldiers at, xl, 88, 88 n. 3, 92 n. 3, 93 n. 2, 147 ; description of, 88 n. 3, 147, 147 n. 2 ; coveted by the Turks,
148
name, 60 71. 5 on the borders of Roumania, 209 Yriarte, Charles, his Les Bords de r Adriatique referred to, 85 n. 4,
spellings of the
86 n. 3
n.
I
xxxiii,
66
inhabitants
of,
flee
on
Yteeman.
S^ Ikhtiman
n. 4
16, 166, 168; earthquakes at, 18 . 3, 19; Lithgow's description of, 17 n. 3 ; currants produced at, xxiv, 18, 18 w. 3 ; no corn grown
Zindana,
xxiv,
18,
scription of,
18 . 3
Lake," 84
;/.
ERRATA
p. xxxix. p. ^ n. 5.
p. 26
ti.
Clissa.
6.
p. 32 n. 2.
p. 33 n.
p.
2. 4.
80 n.
pp. 85 n. 4
p. 105 n. I.
and 88
n. 3.
p. 109 n. 4.
II.
I.
pp. 126 n.
3,
de Medici.
p.
129 n.
2.
p. 162.
For George,
third
Wyche.
Caiuirttrge
AT THE UNIVERSITY
PRESS.
Date Due
.
MAY
^ % "/
"
K.
Europe and
G 161 .H2 17
Mundy,
Peter,
fl.
1600-1667,