Quality Parameters of Woven Fabric

Authors:
Md. Samiul Haq1
Afifa Sultana
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Email: samiul23-4561@diu.edu.bd1

ABSTRACT

The fundamental motivation behind this task is to discover the fabric quality by
following diverse test which is done in textile industry. This postulation work will
assist us with finding out the variety of woven fabric quality as indicated by the
development just as synthesis. We have determined numerous quality
parameters, for example, GSM, tear quality, elasticity, skewness test, bowing test,
shrinkage test, pilling test, crimp percentage test which are legitimately or by
implication relies upon fabric quality. Previously, every test we have checked epi
and ppi of the woven fabric and deliberately saw the construction of the fabric.
Throughout the information assortment process, we have kept up the standard of
ISO. During the information assortment time we were earnest and steadfast.
What’s more, we constantly attempted to complete a few tests for getting the
genuine outcome. Our endeavors were to build up a trustworthy way so one can
without much of a stretch imagine the quality parameters of sewed fabric with
required setup. We unequivocally accept that, hypothetical information that we
assembled in the class and viable information that we have gotten the hang of
during the internship period help us to play out the task flawlessly.

INTRODUCTION

Fabric is a get together of yarn which is made by interlacing or interloping.

knitting and woven are the two fundamental class of fabric. We will discuss the
woven fabric quality parameter which alludes diverse test method of fabric, for
example, EPI and PPI tally, GSM, quality and so forth.

Quality means, the standard of something as measured against other things of a

similar kind; the degree of excellence of something. Quality issues are the main
factor for an industry to sustain. It can hinder the growth of the industry.
Because, no buyer will buy quality less product. Here, one thing should be cleared
that, quality in textile or garments sector means buyer requirement.
The quality issues that we will be discussed in thesis are:

• EPI & PPI

• GSM
• Shrinkage
• Skewness
• Bowing
• Tensile strength test
• Tear strength test
• Pilling test
• Elongation & Recovery
These issues are must be maintained in a product and a quality person must be
concentrate on these matters. During an order processed a
fabric merchandiser have to check these issues must. So, it is cleared that, the
aim of this project; clarify the test procedure with meaningful comparison
between construction of fabric.

So, in a word we worked with woven fabric quality parameters which are must be
followed in a textile industry to find the quality issues of a fabric. It will also show
the variation of quality value when the procedure is different.

Objectives

• To know about the production procedure of some major commercial

single wovenstructures e. Plain, Twill, Oxford, Dobby etc.
• To determine and evaluate quality of the produced. Structures that
were interlacedwith cotton & cotton/polyester blended yarns
maintaining similar major woven variables, e. yarn count and stitch
length.
• To observe the variation in quality parameters performance of the
produced fabrics.
• To analyze the obtained data statistically to find out
qualitative/quantitative influence of weaving.
• To know details about quality parameters of woven fabrics and their
importance.
LITERATURE REVIEW

Woven fabrics are made on looms. They consist of two sets of yarns that are
interlaced and lie at right angles to each other. The threads that run along the
length of the fabric are known as warp (ends) and the threads that run from one
side to the other side of the fabric, are weft (picks). In triaxial and in three-
dimensional fabrics yarns are arranged differently.
Basic of Woven Fabric

The form of interlacing of warp and weft yarns can be divided basically into three
categories- plain, twill and satin/sateen weave. These three kinds of forms are
called basic weaves.

Plain Weave:

The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave. Each filling yarn passes
alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn passes alternately over
and under each filling yarn. Some examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe,
taffeta, organdy, and muslin. This have some categories as follows:

Warp rib weave- Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which
two or more picks are inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally
used in warp faced constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp are
substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp. The intention
is to produce fabrics with prominent weft- way rib formed by the crowns of the
warp threads.

Figure 1: Warp rib weave

Weft rib weave- Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or
more ends weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover
factors in weft faced plain- weave cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one,
it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover factor. Such cloths are expensive
to weave and not very common.

Figure 2: Weft rib weave

Basket, matt or hopsack weave- In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more
ends and two or more picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these
weaves is 2/2 matt.

Twill Weave:

A weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks & produces diagonal lines on
the face of the fabric. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal rib (twill lines)
on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends
interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end by one
pick relative to that of the previous end. In twill weave line moves sinisterly
(Right – Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left – Right, S twill). Common derivatives of
twill weave are as follows:

Zigzag weave– If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed

periodically across the width, a zigzag effect is produced. Zigzag weave is
achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill weaves of equal repeat.

Figure 3: Zigzag twill weave

Diamond weave– Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two
symmetrical zigzag weaves of equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and
horizontally symmetrical.

Figure 4: Diamond twill weave

Herringbone weave– In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed
periodically like zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of
interlacement is also reversed and then twill line commence as usual.
 Figure 5: Herringbone twill weave
Diaper weave– Diaper weaves are produced when we combine two
Herringbone designs. Diaper designs are diagonally symmetrical.

Figure 6: Diaper twill weave

Satin/sateen Weave:

The satin weave is characterized by floating yarns used to produce a high luster
on one side of a fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass over four or more
filling yarns. The low twist and the floating of the warp yarns, together with the
fiber content, give a high degree of light reflection. Weights of satin fabrics range
from chiffon satin to heavy duchesse satin. The sateen weave is similar to a satin
construction except that in the sateen weave, the filling yarns float and are visible
on the surface of fabric. Examples: cotton sateen, and damask.

Figure 7: Sateen & Satin weave

Woven fabrics are manufactured on any of the weaving machines as per their
applications. Their strength, thickness, extensibility, porosity and durability can
be varied and depend on weave used, thread spacing (that is the number of
threads per centimeter), raw materials, structure (filament or staple), linear
density (or count) and twist factors of the warp and weft yarns. Higher strengths
and greater stability can be obtained from woven fabrics than from any other
fabric structure using interlaced yarns.

Not need to say that in the competitive market, quality of finished product plays a
vital role. So, there are many customers which are ready to pay more for ‘quality’
which ensures the better performance of the product.

Therefore, it becomes necessary to control the quality of the product

manufactured. For this purpose, many test methods and testing instruments are
developed. By testing the product we obtain values of quality related variables of
the textile product.

Analyzing these values with standard norms, we can control the quality. In case
of woven fabric, there are various methods by which we can easily control the
quality of the fabric.

Though textile testing and quality control is a costly process, it is necessary to

test textile product for their quality. As far as quality is the concern, we have to
test the material first and so that testing process starts from the raw material
itself.

Initially, standards of certain quality are fixed for the particular end product and
the accordingly, the product is manufactured. During manufacturing product is
testing is done and obtained values are compared with standards and quality
control is done.

By testing and controlling the quality of the textile product we can reduce the cost
of production, as we are reducing variation in manufactured product, reducing
the waste and rework, improving efficiency and increase productivity. Testing is
the process or procedure to determine the quality of a product.

A particular standard of product which satisfies the customers need is nothing

but the “QUALITY” of the product. Fabric quality mainly consists of two
components:

1. Fabric properties
2. Fabric faults/defects
There are many customers who ready to pay more for ‘quality’ which ensures the
better performance of the product. Therefore, it becomes necessary to control the
quality of the fabric manufactured.
Quality Control

As we know that particular standard of product which satisfies the costumers

need is nothing but the “QUALITY” of the product. Testing of the product is done
and parameters of that product are verified.

Maintaining these parameters in given tolerance limit of standards, this process

is called as “Quality Control”.

There are many customers ready to pay more for ‘quality’ which ensures the
better performance of the product. Therefore, it is become necessary to control
the quality of the product manufactured.

Objects of Quality Control

•To manufacture the required quality

•To fulfill customer’s
•To reduce the cost of
•To reduce
•To make more profit at minimum
Quality Control Process

Quality control is not a single step procedure, it is a multi-step procedure in

which following steps are carried out.

• Testing of material.
• Analysis of
• Corrective action according to results from the
To obtain a quality end product these steps must be carried out on the woven
fabric which is to be processed.

You may also like: Basic Concepts of Quality and Quality Control in
Textile

Defects of woven fabric:

Bad selvedge

Inappropriate shuttle wire strain, twisted shuttle jaw, shuttle split, increasingly
pressure on selvedge yarns, late shedding bringing about scouring of shuttle to
the selvedge and ill- advised determination of selvedge weave for the fabric being
woven are the primary explanations behind bad selvedge.

Figure 8: Bad Selvedge

Broken end

This problem is raised in warp direction when the warp yarn broke in a place of
fabric. This problem could be raised during weaving or finishing.

Figure 9: Broken end

Broken weft

High weft pressure, ill-advised form of pirn, knots at the nose or pursue of pirns,
back fastens in cones bolstered as weft in shuttle less weavers, and harmed
surface of pirns, shuttle tongue not in level, harsh places inside the van, harmed
nylon circles, sloughing off or approximately fabricated weft bundle, transport
eye chipped or broken, weft caught in the crate, selvedge closes cutting the weft,
weft fork too far through the mesh, unpleasant box fronts or shuttle guides,
inappropriate arrangement of cone in weft feeder, lower curve in weft bringing
about weft opening out in air-fly weavers, missing the picks, ill-advised tying of
last parts, and harsh treatment of cones are the principle explanations behind
higher weft breaks.

Figure 10: Broken weft

Weft bar

At the point when count of yarn changes starting with one cone then onto the
next cone then a bar of weft will be showed up in fabric subsequent to weaving.

Figure
11: Weft bar
Loose weft or Slough off or Snarl
When a bunch of or coil of yarn slips from the pirn during weaving then thick
yarn bunches or coils appear on the fabric.

Figure 12:
Loose weft or Slough off or Snarl
Starting Marks

Thick or thin places occurring in fabric due to pick density variation when
starting the loom, causing starting marks.

Figure 13: Starting mark

Double end
This sort of issue is created in woven fabrics when the two parts of the warp get
together subsequent to sizing.

Figure 14: Double end

Knots or slubs in the warp or weft yarns

Knots or slubs in a portion of the weft or warp yarns are viewed as flaws when
they are obvious to an accomplished individual and when they ruin the presence
of the fabrics. This visual evaluation is adequate to test whether the shortcomings
would be unsuitable in an article of clothing and no resilience is allowed for flaws
recognized utilizing this technique for control.
 Figure 15: Knots or slubs
Oil spot or stain

Staining on a neighborhood a substrate that might be impervious to expel by

washing or cleaning. It happens during turning, weaving or wrapping up. It is
additionally frequently found in the woven fabric. It is likewise created in woven
fabric if an excessive amount of oiling has done on the loom parts.

Figure 16: Oil spot or stain

METHODOLOGY

Area of experiment: Woven fabric quality parameter

Will be discussed here: Counting of EPI & PPI, GSM, Shrinkage, Skewness,
Bowing, Tear & Tensile strength, Abrasion resistance test, Pilling test.
All the materials and machineries are used from Mahmud Fabrics and Finishing
Ltd.

Machine used:

There are several machines used during the experimental work had processed.
Weaving machine, counting glass, GSM cutter, seizer, shrinkage scale, shrinkage
board, washing machine, pilling cutter, tear and tensile strength measuring
machine, weighting machine.

Weaving machine:

Brand Name PICANOL (Rapier Loom)

Model No Optimax

Origin Belgium

M/C Speed 850 rpm

Heald Frame 16

Dope Wire 6

No. of cutter 2

Let off motion Electrical

Take up motion Electrical

Figure 17: Picanol (optimax) rapier loom machine
Machine specification:

Counting glass:

Figure 18: Counting glass

Washing machine:
 Figure 19: Washing machine
GSM cutter:

Figure 20: GSM cutter

Tear strength testing machine:
 Figure 21: Tear strength testing machine
Tensile strength testing machine:

Figure 22: Tensile strength testing

machine
Abrasion & pilling testing machine:
 Figure 23: Abrasion & pilling
testing machine
EPI & PPI calculation:

EPI and PPI are the exceptionally normal word in the textile business. In woven
fabric EPI and PPI is estimated to the quantity of yarn on a fabric. Regularly, EPI
is the quantity of wrap yarns per inch of fabric and PPI is the quantity of weft
yarns of per inch of fabric. After read this article we can without much of a stretch
comprehend EPI and PPI in material attire.

EPI: EPI signifies “Ends Per Inch” is the mainstream word in the articles of
clothing and textile industry. Number of yarns in twist bearing is estimated by
EPI. Typically, closes per Inch are the quantity of wrap yarns. It is the speak to
vertical yarns of the fabric. It is known as the wrap yarn.
 Figure 24: Warp & weft of
a fabric
PPI: PPI signifies “Picks Per Inch” is additionally the most prominent word in
the textile and pieces of clothing industry. Number of Weft yarn in fabric is
estimated by PPI. Picks per inch is the quantity of weft yarns of the fabric. It is
speaking to the flat yarns. It is the called weft yarn.

There are two techniques to discover EPI and PPI:

1. Testing technique in Lab.

2. Without testing technique or manual.
1. Testing technique in Lab

On the off chance that you need to know EPI and PPI in the fabric, at that point
send fabric test to the testing lab. Subsequent to checking the fabric test they will
educate you what number of Ends Per Inch and Picks per inch on the fabric.

2. Without Testing Lab or Manual

Ordinarily, it he the straightforward strategy to path discovers the EPI and PPI
on the fabric. Also, most extreme fabric EPI yarn is the higher than PPI yarn. On
the off chance that you need to know EPI and PPI, at that point you ought to
follow in the beneath system.
Gather the fabric swatch. Put the fabric swatch on the plain table. And
furthermore, checks wrap and weft bearing of the fabric.

Imprint 1X1 inch on the fabric test.

Vertical or wrap yarn check individually. Also, discover what number of wrap
yarns. And furthermore, flat or weft yarn check individually. Discover what
number of weft yarns.

Along these lines, utilizing this technique we can without much of a stretch
comprehend and discover one-inch fabric yarns tally of length and Width.

GSM calculation

We measured GSM for three times for same fabric. One is before wash; another is
after wash (Dried in dryer) and the last one is also after wash(Dried in open air).

Procedure of calculation:

1. At first, we cut the fabric with GSM cutter; the knife was sharp so it
cut so easily; there must not loss any single yarn from the cutting
part and we were very much careful about it.
2. Then we weighted the fabric in an electric balance and before
weighing we set the balance in gm unit and neutralize it.
Shrinkage calculation

Shrinkage (in fabric) is a parameter of testing fabric to quantify changes long and
width in the wake of washing. Shrinkage bombing materials are dimensionally
flimsy and they can cause disfiguring of the pieces of clothing or items made out
of those materials.

Procedure of calculation:

1. At first need to mark two length in warp and weft direction of the
fabric. Marking is done through using We did it very carefully.
Before making mark, we were concern about the straightness of the
fabric. This task is done before washing as the shrinkage happen
after wash.
2. Then next procedure will carry out after washing. Following the
procedure, the marked length will be measured again by shrinkage
 scale. Increases of length will express in positive sign and decreases
of length will express in negative sign.
For calculate shrinkage percentage,

Shrinkage% = {(length before wash – length after wash) / length before wash} ×
100

Tear strength calculation

Tear strength is the quality required to begin or proceed with the tear in a
fabric under explicit condition and tearing power is the required to proceed with
a tear recently began in a fabric. The tear obstruction test on fabrics or tear
quality is estimated to check how the material can withstand the impacts of
tearing or cuts when in strain. The tear quality is estimated according to the
ASTM D412 standard test technique, which is likewise used to quantify ductile
and extension.

Procedure of calculation:

1. At first need to cut the sample for testing. During cutting sample for
warp and weft test a rule should be followed that during cutting
warp, short length of template (10mm) should remain in warp wise.
And same rule for weft sample cutting.
2. Then the cutting sample should set on the clamp of tear testing
machine and cut a slit through using knife switch.
3. Then the operation switch should be In James Heal tear testing
machine two switch are operated this action.
4. After tearing completed, the result will show in a monitor of the
machine. 3 or 5 tests can be And we do 5 tests of every sample.
5. At last need to take the average value from the screen.
Tensile strength calculation

Tensile strength of any material is the power at which example breaks. in the
event that if fabrics it is the most extreme recorded power required to tear a
fabric. Elastic testing of fabric includes different test (Strip test, snatch test,
tearing test, and so on) which can invigorate a thought regarding the tensile
strength of fabric.

Procedure of calculation:
 1. Need to cut sample at (2-inchX 8-inch) parameters for both warp
and weft side.
2. Then need to set the sample at the clamp.
3. Then need to give command form the computer to start the
operation.
4. Through graph method the procedure will give result. After 3 test the
average value will show on screen of the computer.
Skewness calculation

Skewness is an imperfection happens in a fabric. It is a condition coming about

when filling yarns or sewed courses are precise uprooted from a line opposite to
the edge or side of the fabric because of uneven appropriation of pressure.

Procedure of calculation:

1. Take a sample of fabric of full width and a minimum length.

2. Cut the sample width wise and must follow same pick during cutting.
3. Fold width wise after cutting and there will some parts which will not
match.
4. Measure that parts and that’s the skewness value.

Figure 25: Calculation steps of skewness of a fabric

Bowing calculation
Bowing is a condition in woven textiles where filling yarns are displaced from a
line perpendicular to the selvages and lie in an arc across the width of the fabric.
Bowing appears as rows of courses or yarn-dyed stripes forming a bow shaped
curvature along the fabric width.

Procedure of calculation:

1. At first need to cut a sample fabric along the width and a pick should
be followed during the cutting.
2. Then the fabric should be fold length wise and from the cutting side
bow depth will show.
3. Measure the depth length from bow portion top position to level
position of other fold length.
For calculation bowing percentage,

Bowing percentage = (Bowing depth/fabric width) ×100

Figure 26: Bowing of a

fabric
Abrasion resistance calculation

Abrasion is a kind of wear in which rubbing away of component fibers and yarns
of the fabric takes place. During abrasion, a series of repeated applications of
stress takes place.

Procedure of calculation:

1. At first need to cut the sample by pilling or abrasion cutter.

2. Set the sample to the clamp with backing felt. There must be same
fabric sample in upper and lower position of the spinle.
3. Set the required no. of cycle to rub. We set it at 2000 cycles.
4. After completing the cycles, the sample will be examined under light
box.
Pilling resistance calculation

A pill, colloquially known as a bobble, fuzz ball, or lint ball is a small ball of fibers
that forms on a piece of cloth. Pilling is a surface defect of textiles caused by wear
and is considered unsightly to some. It happens when washing and wearing of
fabrics cause loose fibers to begin to push out from the surface of the cloth, and,
over time, abrasion causes the fibers to develop into small spherical bundles,
anchored to the surface of the fabric by protruding fibers that haven’t broken.
These fiber balls are called Pills.

Pilling is also done as the same procedure as abrasion resistance calculation.

Elongation and recovery calculation

Elongation is indicated as a level of the beginning length. The versatile

lengthening is of definitive significance since fabric items without flexibility
would scarcely be useable. They should have the option to twist and furthermore
come back to shape.

Recovery or elasticity is the aftereffect of extending a fabric to the most extreme

without being disfigured. The flexibility is estimated as a percent for each meter
or inch. The fabric versatility can be estimated wide-wise, long-wise, or over the
predisposition of the fabric. It can likewise be estimated over a few faculties
simultaneously; with the possibility their measure is extraordinary.

Procedure of calculation: [Experiment carry out in Titan 5 machine

form James Heal]

1. Cut the sample length/width wise (according to requirement) at 2

inch × 8 inch length.
2. Set it on the clamp of the machine.
3. Set the test method and required no. of cycle of applying force.
4. After completing cycle remove the sample immediately and measure
the length of the sample.
5. After 3 tests, average value needs to calculate.
Crimp percentage calculation

At the point when warp and weft yarns join in fabric, they pursue a wavy or
layered way. Crimp percentage is a proportion of this waviness in yarns.

Procedure of calculation:

1. At first need to identify the warp and weft way of a sample.

2. Then need to measure the fabric sample length and width.
 3. Following that, remove yarn from warp and weft side and measure
the extended length of those yarn.
4. Then following the below formula crimp percentage is measured

Data Table

Table 1: Data table for GSM

GSM

Fabric type Construction

Before
After Wash
Wash

‘Z’ Twill 96×72/40×(40+40D) 212.35 232

‘Z’ Twill 120×80/30×{20+(20+70D)} 199.74 270.56

Dobby 84×78/ (30+21) × (30+21) 169.48 178

Plain 110×50/40×32/2 142.35 144.4

‘S’ Twill 90×62/30/2×16+70D 244.64 322.21

Plain 88×74/40×40 225.32 237.43

Dobby 102×58/ 20× (20+40D) 227.65 261.34

Dobby 120×80/ 30×(20+(20+70D)) 235 270.35

‘S’ Twill 110×50/40×32/2 143.23 146.7

‘Z’ Twill 100×72/20×(20+40D) 226.65 266.09

‘S’ Twill 90×80/30×30 143.56 147.87

Dobby 94×60/40/2×{20+(20+40D)} 208.31 287.76

’Z’Twill 62×52/20×20 158.43 166.32

‘S’ Twill 96×66/21×21cl 192.34 203

Plain 112×67/ 40×40 108.5 119.23

‘Z’ Twill 80×50/ 10×10 255 276

Table 2: Data table for Shrinkage

Shrinkage (%)
Fabric construction Drying
Length wise Width wise

Line +2.85 -10.32

120×80/ 30×(20+(20+70D))
Tumble -3.0 -13.5

Line +0.54 -10.64

100×60/16×(16+40D)
Tumble -3.00 -12.05

Line +2.65 -2.36

90×80/30×30
Tumble +1.54 -2.07

Line -3.42 -4.47

94×60/40/2×{20+(20+40D)}
Tumble -2.34 -4.5

Line -2.84 -6.54

68×50/ 21cl×(20+70D)
Tumble -1.65 -11.25
 Line +2.35 -4.65
92×64/21cl×(20+70D)
Tumble -1.76 -4.87

Line -5.11 -7.58

110×50/40×32/2
Tumble -6.00 -8.29

Table 3: Data table for tear strength

Tear strength of Warp Tear strength for weft

Fabric construction
Yarn (N) yarn (N)

120×80/ 30×(20+(20+70D)) 23.99 16.17

68×50/ 21cl×(20+70D) 28.87 23.94

90×80/30×30 21.51 17.63

94×60/40/2×{20+(20+40D)} 33.16 29.07

100×60/16×(16+40D) 42.90 28.74

92×64/21cl×(20+70D) 34.67 29.76

110×50/40×32/2 27.54 19.47

Table 4: Data table for tensile strength

 Tensile strength of Tensile strength for
Fabric construction
Warp Yarn weft yarn

120×80/ 30×(20+(20+70D)) 385.7 329.71

100×60/16×(16+40D) 658.51 577.25

90×80/30×30 298.42 242.80

94×60/40/2×{20+(20+40D)} 478.69 269.47

68×50/ 21cl×(20+70D) 259.13 181.66

92×64/21cl×(20+70D) 337.41 263.85

110×50/40×32/2 390.54 333.27

Table 5: Data table for elongation and recovery percentages

Fabric construction Elongation (%) Recovery (%)

120×80/ 30×(20+(20+70D)) 29.16 94

100×60/16×(16+40D) 23.81 92

90×80/30×30 17.32 95
 94×60/40/2×{20+(20+40D)} 22.68 93

100×60/16×(16+40D) 23.81 94

92×64/21cl×(20+70D) 21.67 94

110×50/40×32/2 25.44 94

Table 6: Data table for Pilling resistance

Fabric construction Fabric Weave Pilling test result

120×80/ 30×(20+(20+70D)) Dobby 2/3

100×60/16×(16+40D) 2/2 ‘Z’ Twill 1/2

90×80/30×30 2/2 ‘S’ Twill 2/3

94×60/40/2×{20+(20+40D)} Dobby 2/3

100×60/16×(16+40D) 2/2 ‘Z’ Twill 2

92×64/21cl×(20+70D) 2/2 ‘Z’ Twill 2/3

110×50/40×32/2 Plain 2/3

Table 7: Data table for crimp percentage

Warp crimp Weft crimp

Fabric construction
percentage (%) percentage (%)

100×44/20×(20+70D) 9.73 36.19

102×58/ 20×(20+70D) 16.98 39.08

182×72/ 30×(20+70D) 11.88 46.2

136×76/ 30×(20+70D) 10.63 37.08

128×50/ 20×(16+70D) 19.99 34.14

126×58/ 20×(16+70D) 12.35 38.85

Analysis of some collected sample

Sample 1:

Sample 1
 Weave Plain

Construction 104×84/40×40

Before wash 204

GSM

After wash 306

Warp wise 29.45 N

Tear strength

Weft wise 23.54 N

Warp wise 395.23 N

Tensile strength

Weft wise 337.23 N

Warp wise -2%

Shrinkage

Weft Wise 3.5%-

Warp wise 17.45 %

Crimp percentage

Weft wise 40.45%

Sample 2:
 Sample 2
Weave Twill

Construction 80×50/10×10

Before wash 204

GSM

After wash 306

Tear Warp wise 43.87 N

strength
Weft wise 27.65 N

Warp wise 330.54 N

Tensile strength
Weft wise 297.35 N

Shrinkage Warp wise -1%-

 Weft Wise -2.5%

Warp wise 15.42%

Crimp percentage
Weft wise 35.67%
Sample 3:

Sample 3
Weave Dobby

Construction 102×58/20×920+40D)

Before wash 227

GSM
After wash 261

Tear Warp wise 45.67 N

 strength
Weft wise 27.25 N

Warp wise 478.36 N

Tensile strength
Weft wise 276.34 N

Warp wise 1%-

Shrinkage
Weft wise -14%

Warp wise 16.98%

Crimp percentage
Weft wise 39.08%

Sample 4:

Sample 4
Weave Twill

Construction 92×64/20×(20+70D)
 Before wash 240

GSM

After wash 261

Tear Warp wise 16.94 N

strength
Weft wise 43.76 N

Warp wise 456.75 N

Tensile strength
Weft wise 267.45 N

Warp wise -3.5%

Shrinkage
Weft wise -9.5%

Warp wise 20.34 %

Crimp percentage
Weft wise 47.43 %

Sample 5:
 Sample 5
Weave Twill

Construction 136×76/30×(20+70D)

Before wash 223

GSM

After wash 242

Tear Warp wise 27.97 N

strength
Weft wise 23.25 N

Warp wise 398.7 N

Tensile strength
Weft wise 378.7 N

Shrinkage Warp wise -2%

 Weft wise -9%

Warp wise 10.63 %

Crimp percentage
Weft wise 37.08 %

Sample 6:

Sample 6
Weave Twill

Construction 96×66/21×21cl

Before wash 193

GSM

After wash 200

Tear strength Warp wise 37.67 N

 Weft wise 32.67 N

Warp wise 288.42 N

Tensile strength

Weft wise 238.42 N

Warp wise -4.5%

Shrinkage

Weft wise -1.5%

Crimp Warp wise 13.68 %

percentage
Weft wise 43.53 %

RESULT & DISCUSSION

Graph presentation

Graph 1: GSM result analysis

Here, total 15 constructions of fabrics are examined. The constructed fabrics are
Twill, Plain, Dobby. All the GSM has been taken at room temperature. From the
graph of the results it can be said that the difference between the GSM of same
fabric for before wash and after wash is very little. But, 1,3,6 and 16 no. of fabric
from the graph shows different picture.

Graph 2: Shrinkage result analysis

Here total no. of fabric is seven and all are different construction. The shrinkage
is measured on the basis of 2 types of drying process on is line drying and another
is tumble drying. The graph of the results shows that, the shrinkage is higher for
tumble drying process. It also shows that, length wise shrinkage is higher
compare with width wise direction.

Graph 3: Tear strength result analysis

Here total no. of examined fabric is 7. And all the fabric is differently constructed.
The results from the graph shows that all time warp tear strength is higher than
the weft yarn.

Graph 4: Tensile strength result analysis

Here total no. of examined fabric is 7. And all the fabric is differently constructed.
The results from the graph shows that all time warp tensile strength is higher
than the weft yarn. And from tear and tensile strength graph it is also clear that
the fabric which tear strength is higher its tensile strength is also higher than
other fabric.

Graph 5: Crimp percentage result analysis

Here total no. of fabric is 6. And the construction of each fabric is different. But
the EPI and PPI of 1 & 2, 3 & 4, 5 & 6 no fabrics are same. But these similarities
don’t affect the result of crimp percentage.

CONCLUSION

Major finding of our project works are followings:

The creation of weaved fabric is likewise determined in length. The “length” of a

sewed fabric for the most part relied upon two elements, in particular the epi and
ppi and the yarn count.

• GSM is a significant quality parameter of sewed woven fabric. It very

well may be tried by GSM shaper or a few conditions that we talked
about previously. From the graph of the results it can be said that the
difference between the GSM of same woven fabric for before wash
and after wash is very little.
• The graph of the results shows that, the shrinkage is higher for
tumble drying process. It also shows that, length wise shrinkage is
higher compare with width wise direction.
• Tear and tensile strength are always higher in warp direction. And it
is not depending only count but is GSM and EPI, PPI also.
• Fabric recovery after elongation relies between (90-95) % And it
should be measured during the production of garments.
• Same counted fabric having different EPI, PPI shows different crimp
percentage. Crimp percentage in weft direction is higher because the
wavy form of weft yarn.
 •Skewness happens when weft yarns are uprooted from their vertical
position and warps are dislodged from their flat Adequate scope of
skewness is 2%.
• Fabrics quality parameters means and how to measure different
quality parameters.
Limitations:

•Limited no. of variation of fabric in case of composition and

construction made the working experience tough.
• Maintaining standard climate couldn’t be conceivable during the
molding of the woven fabric.
• Due to absence of accessible yarn it was unrealistic to check quality
parameters on different mix proportion.
• In time of estimating count of yarn ”check variety” was happened.
• Due to absence of creation verities we can’t break down the quality
parameters of all verities of sewed woven fabric.
• Due to absence of lab officers all trial of value parameters wasn’t
possible.
Conclusion:

By the finesse of Almighty, we complete our thesis effectively.

Nature of an item resembles blood of human body. For keeping up legitimate

nature of an item its basic to keep up all the quality parameters.

By our undertaking work we can learn insights concerning quality parameters of

woven fabrics like Fabric EPI & PPI, Fabric width, Dimensional security,
Skewness, Bowing, Fabric Strength, Crimp percentage, Fabric GSM, Yarn count,
Elongation, Recovery etc.

The present investigation along these lines might be considered as a rule to

become familiar with this quality issue on an essential down to earth way.

REFERENCES

1. Dictionary of Textile by Books Fair Publication