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Another random document with
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 NAILS.

STEEL WIRE BARBED NAILS are superior to any cut nail made.
Are lighter, stronger and easier to drive. Holding firmer in the wood,
and having a larger flat head, they hold the tin to the roof boards
much better, are nearly double the quantity to the pound, and
therefore fully as cheap.
 DEADENING AND FIRE-PROOFING
FLOORS.
This can be accomplished in a
simple and inexpensive manner
by nailing strips 1 × 1½ inches
along the side of each joist, the
top edge of each strip to be two
inches below the top surface of
the joist. On top of these strips
lay a floor of rough boards.
Second-hand material answers every purpose for the floor, as the
boards need not be matched or of even thickness.
On the top of this rough floor spread a covering of coarse mortar
gauged level with the top edge of the joist. When the mortar is dry
lay the floor in the usual manner. It takes a long time for fire to burn
through a floor laid in this manner, and sound is deadened
completely by the mass of non-conducting mortar and the double
floors. For fire-proofing and deadening partitions in an effective way,
build a four-inch brick wall between the studding. A nail driven every
ten or twelve inches in the side of the studding, on the line of the
mortar joint, will hold the wall firmly between the studding. Where
brick is scarce or expensive, sun dried brick made from stiff clay is a
good substitute. They can be made 12 × 12 inches, and thick
enough to come within ⅜ of an inch of the lathing. The mortar keys
impinging against the wall make the plastering firmer and
consequently stronger.
The expense of fire-proofing and deadening in this manner is so
small, it is surprising it is not more generally adopted. If the flooring
is laid before the mortar used between the joists is dry, it will cause
the boards to swell and may bulge them; and when they finally
become dry will leave ugly looking cracks where they join.
Remember, you cannot have a well built house without giving Nature
time to do her work.
 DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING WALTER’S
PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES.

Cut I.

Shows manner of finishing with Climax Ridge Stop

Block and Gable End Finish.

Commence at the lower left-hand corner. In starting be particular to see that

you start straight with the eaves of the building. To do this it is best to draw a
chalk line about twelve inches from the eaves; this distance leaves two inches
to project from the eaves, which in many cases is more than sufficient. If you
use our Gable End Finish (Cut I) it saves the trouble of fitting the shingles to
the verge board, and adds to the appearance of the roof. After nailing the
Gable End Finish to its place, press the left-hand edge of the first shingle well
under the fold of the Gable End Finish, and before nailing it hook two or three
shingles with the top edge on a line with your chalk line; then remove the
loose shingles, and nail the first one which is held to its proper place by the
Gable End Finish. By doing this in starting each course you are sure of a
straight line if you follow correctly the gauge lines at the top of each shingle.
 Cut A.

Shows commencement of first two

courses.

If your roof has a pitch of six inches to the foot, or steeper, let the
bottom edge of the shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the
top of the underlying shingle, as shown in Cut A. But if the pitch of the roof
is less than six inches to the foot, let the shingle entirely cover the lower
gauge line, as shown in Cut B.
 Cut B.

We advise against the use of our shingles on roofs of less pitch than five
inches to the foot, unless the lap is increased. As a rule, we think any roof that
can be walked over with safety is too flat for shingles of either wood or metal.

Cut F.
 Should there be a gutter formed at the eave, let the shingle rest on it as you
would in using the ordinary wood shingle. (Remember every other course
commences with a half shingle, as shown in Cuts A and B.) The same
rules that govern the laying of slate or the common wood shingle along
valleys, or about chimneys and dormer windows, are applicable to ours,
except the tin shingles are bent up against the sides of chimneys, which
cannot be done with wood or slate. When our shingles turn up against the
sides of chimneys or brick walls, insert flashing by sawing out the mortar joint
above the line of tin work; where the upper edge of our shingles butts against
the brick wall, as they do on the lower side of chimneys, cut them off on the
line where the chimney comes to the roof, and use a strip of tin bent in this
manner. (See Cut F.) The upper end at A is to fit in mortar joint. The lower
edge, B, is nailed to the sheathing before the shingles are put on. The upper
ends of shingles are then to be pressed up under the fold, C. Great care
should be used in finishing about chimneys and dormers, the details of which
cannot well be explained to suit each case; but a workman of ordinary skill can
suggest the proper manner in which the work should be done to secure
thoroughly tight work.
It is much easier to secure this result with the use of our shingles than it is
with either wood or slate.
Where the upper end of shingle butts against the side of a frame house, use
the same means as on the lower side of chimneys, only let there be no bend
at the point A, as shown in Cut F; but let it extend an inch or so up under the
weather boarding. Where the weather boarding is vertical there is no way of
making tight work but to put the tin work, as before described, back of the
vertical weather board.
In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half inch over the
lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We furnish to each customer a
small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to turn this edge over and pinch it
together after the shingle is laid.
 Cut D.

The Cut D represents the shingles laid to and from the valley. In starting
from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, or tack them at the
top, then with a straight-edge mark and cut where they overlap the valley; and
with the hand-tongs edge and lock them to the valley, as shown in cut D.
Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and press the
shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut to suit the angle of
the hip. (See Cut E.)
 Cut E.

As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip Coping
through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, therefore, particular
to say wherever this Hip, or our Plain Ridge Coping (which is the same thing)
is used it should be nailed to the roof boards before the shingles are put on.
The fold is made expressly to receive the edge of the shingles. Cut E shows
this coping and the manner of applying it.
We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the Northern States,
where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, the necessity of using
close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not close, the use of sheathing
paper, to be laid underneath the shingles; it adds greatly to the warmth of
the house in winter, and prevents small particles of snow from entering, it
costs but little, and should always be used under wood, slate or tin shingles
where the best protection is desired.
DO NOT Hammer Down the Joints or Lock.
PAINTING DEPARTMENT
 PAINTING.
After the mason, bricklayer, carpenter, tinsmith and plasterer
comes the painter. At this stage of progress in the work, the owner
usually thinks of moving in; in fact, he thinks he should have been
living in his new house several weeks ago.
If weather conditions have been good, the representatives of other
branches of house building have got along smoothly excepting a little
shaking up now and then, caused mostly by the men occasionally
yielding to the seductive influences of Old John Barleycorn or his
rival King Growler. The owner, having previously engaged or
contracted for inside painting, now calls on the painter. The man of
colors and brushes is always ready to promise quick work (and we
are free to say the mysteries of his trade are equal to any reasonable
emergency), and is apt to humor his employer’s impatience, and
meekly submits to his wishes knowing that his employer’s hurry is
his gain. House-builder, did it ever occur to you that first-class inside
painting is a slow process? Think of this; after the first coat is laid, it
should stand long enough to become thoroughly dry, dry enough to
be sand-papered. The second coat should be a little heavier than the
first or priming coat. It does not dry as fast as the first. (We are
speaking of good materials properly proportioned.) Each coat must
be thoroughly dry before it is sand-papered. Any kind of good work
requires three coats. Extra good work—four, besides varnishing.
If you succeed in doing this work inside of four weeks you are
fortunate. Thus you see it requires time to do good work. Time for
the men to do theirs, and time for Nature to do hers. Sometimes
Nature frowns and lowers a curtain of humidity for days at a time,
which prevents the oils from drying. It is possible for your painter to
finish all four coats in as many days; but if he is honest and you have
not hurried him unreasonably, his conscience will suffer. Good
painting, like other good things, is durable, looks well, and is the
cheapest in the end.
 Good painters pride themselves on doing good work. So if you
desire first-class work, you should give the painter a reasonable
price, and sufficient time in which to do the work properly.
There is doubtless more adulteration in paint than in any materials
used in house-finishing. So general is this the case that it is often
difficult to get pure materials. This is caused by the low price of the
products of petroleum, the earth materials used to adulterate mineral
paints, and the demand for cheap work.

ATTENTION, ROOFERS!
Our Broad Rib Roofing and Steel Plate Shingles are not
protected with a coat of richer metal like those made of tin or terne
plate, and consequently their durability depends upon the paint with
which they should be covered.
For this purpose nothing, so far as we know, is equal to a mixture
of pure unboiled linseed oil and the oxide of iron. The Shingles
should have two coats, one before they are put on, on both sides
(this we do), the other immediately after they are laid. This last coat
should be repeated every four or five years.
Remember, it is the rust-preventing qualities of linseed oil,
combined with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets
resist the corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the
atmosphere. (See page 101.)
 A PERFECT ROOF.
The best can only be obtained by using good materials, worked
into the best form that theory and experience can suggest.
WALTER’S PATENT “STANDARD” and
COOPER’S PATENT “QUEEN ANNE”
METALLIC SHINGLES AND SIDING,
made from Tin Plate, Steel Plate, Galvanized Tin Plate, Bronze
Metal, and Copper, are unrivaled for roof covering.
Because they have a perfect lock, using no cleats, springs or
exposed seams.
Because they have no exposed fastenings; all nail heads are
covered as perfectly as those used for wood shingles.
Because they can be applied without the necessity of soldering, and
with no other tools than a hammer, a small pair of hand-tongs
and tin shears.
Because they break joints by starting each alternate course with a
half shingle, thus bringing the centre of the bottom of each
shingle astraddle of the locked shingle below, securely binding
the same and preventing rattling.
Because they are easily and rapidly put on, requiring no odd pieces
at the eaves, gables or comb.
Because they lessen the expense of insurance, which extends not
only to the building but to furniture and goods contained therein.
Because they do not crack, split, warp, fall off, rust or burn.
Because there are no cross seams or joints where rain or moisture
can settle and cause decay.
Because we furnish with our shingles, at moderate cost, Valleys,
Gable Strips, Ridge and Hip Coping, that not only improves the
 finish of exterior, but assists the workman to an extent that
lessens the cost of applying.
Manufactured by
THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,
510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City,
and for sale by Dealers in all the principal cities of the United States
and Canada.

From BARTLETT HARDWARE CO.,

Freeport, Ill., January 10th, 1888.
The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., New York City.
Dear Sirs:—I send you photo. of my house that you may
see how handsome a Roof the 7 × 10 Shingles make. You
thought the 10 × 14 would have been better, but this is the
finest roof in this country, and we expect to sell some the
present year. Everybody admires it. Please quote for the
coming season’s trade.
Very respectfully,
F. BARTLETT, President.
 WHAT OUR GOODS ARE.
In offering our goods to the public, we desire to say, briefly, that
the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates have now
been before this country for nearly eight years, upwards of twelve
thousand buildings have been covered with them in the United
States and Canada, and we feel warranted in referring to the owners
of every building so covered.
Our shingles have a concealed nailing flange the entire length of
the shingle on one side, and a perfect lock with a concealed gutter at
the side of the nailing flange that provides for expansion and
contraction, with sufficient ventilation to prevent sweating on the
under-side, (causing rust,) so common in the cross seams of flat lock
and standing seam, now in use.
Our Galvanized (Re-dipped) Shingle is our Standard Tin Shingle
galvanized; and, as every square has twenty pounds of zinc coating,
in addition to the first coat of tin, it will be seen why it is superior to
any galvanized iron made.
Our “Old Process” prices are designed to cover such grades of
double-coated plates as “Old Style,” “M.F.,” “Phelp’s Triple Plate,”
“Gilbertson’s Old Method,” and “Tregoning Old Process,” all superior
to the Standard Grades, and higher in price. We quote all but
Galvanized, painted both sides. If any size or kind is ordered
unpainted, the price will be 25 cents per square less.
Our Steel Plate Shingles are made from sheets of Bessemer steel
rolled as smooth as tin plate, they are painted the same as the
Standard Shingles, and when laid on a roof cannot be distinguished
from them. They should be painted every five years with pure linseed
oil and oxide of iron (brown mineral). They will not bear neglect; in
this respect they differ from shingles made from tin plate. The price
is somewhat less, but the greater durability of the Tin Shingles is
worth more than the difference in price.
 We make our shingles in four sizes: The smallest, 7 × 10,
(showing an exposed surface, after laid, of 5½ × 9 inches,) is
designed for Mansards, Spires, Siding, and other upright work. The
10 × 14, (exposed surface, 8¼ × 11½ inches,) is the popular size;
and while it works to the best advantage on complicated roofs, it is
equally good for plain ones. The 14 × 20, (exposed surface, 12 ×
17½ inches,) is used largely on the plainer roofs, where a saving in
price and labor of putting on is an item. The 20 × 28, (exposed
surface, 17½ × 25½ inches,) is made from heavier metal, and is
designed for warehouses, and other large surfaces; and any of the
larger shingles can be used for siding equally as well.
We are prepared to make any of the above sizes from any special
brand of tin plate in the market, but for our Standard goods, which
we carry in stock, we use a first-class grade of roofing tin plate,
warranted perfect.

SAMPLES.
We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our Walter’s
Patent Shingles (three pieces) to any address in the United States
on receipt of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the
expense, but we propose to make the cost as light as possible to
those interested in building.
THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,
510 to 520 East 20th Street,
New York City.
 BROAD RIB ROOFING,
Like Our
Shingles, has a
nailing flange the
entire length of each
sheet. It forms a
Continuous Rib
when applied from
eaves to comb with
cross seams twenty-
five inches apart,
which gives it
strength and rigidity
not found in roofing
where longer sheets
are used. It has no
protruding anchors,
cleats or rivets; all
nail heads are
covered as perfectly
as those used for wood shingles. There is no waste in using, either
at comb or eaves. The Side Nailing Flange admits of the roof being
fastened to roof boards with any required degree of strength. The
Cross Seams are formed with a folded lock which allows for
contraction and expansion. Material.—Each sheet of this roofing is
made from Best Roofing Tin, or Imported Siemen’s Sheet Steel,
which is hard rolled, tough, durable and thoroughly coated on both
sides with the best Oxide of Iron and Linseed Oil Paint. The size of
sheets are 20 × 28 inches. Tools.—We send with each order one
pair of Metal Shears, one Mallet, and a Draw Tool, for which we
make a charge of two dollars. These tools can be returned to us by
express at our expense, and the purchaser credited, or the money
paid for them returned. Important Improvements in the
manufacture of Steel Sheets enable us to put this on the market at
the same price as Sheet Iron Roofing, to which it is greatly superior.
The Rib is formed of the Walter’s Patent Lock, and is the same we
have used on our shingles for the last seven years. This Lock has
been thoroughly tested, and it is significant that over 25,000,000
square feet of shingles constructed upon this plan are already in use
in the United States and Canada. The application of this Lock does
away with a very large proportion of the work necessary in laying
standing seam roofs as ordinarily applied, such as tonging up the
seams, double seaming, capping or riveting the ribs, and making and
using cleats or other fastenings. This roofing costs no more than
wood shingles in sections where good timber is scarce. Each sheet
is made from plates 20 × 28 inches. WRITE FOR PRICES.

The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., 510-520 E. 20th St., N. Y.

City.
 THE “ATTIC” SKY-LIGHT AND
VENTILATOR.
This is a novelty in roof
ventilation, and possesses the
advantage of admitting light as
well as ventilating rooms in the
garret or immediately under the
roof.
It can be used on any kind of a slope roof having a pitch of three
inches or more to the foot. The front is of double strength glass
which is held to its place by a single catch. When used as a
ventilator the glass is drawn back to the slant of the roof, and sheds
what water would enter the opening during a rain storm. All the
carpenter work necessary in setting the “Attic” is to saw a square
hole through the roof boards at the time of putting on the roof-
covering. We make them to form one plate of our Broad Rib Roofing
with which it interlocks. As shown on page 55, they can be used
equally as well on roofs to be covered with slate or wood shingles as
with our Tin Shingles.
HOW TO SET A FINIAL.
Bore a hole in the upper end of the centre-staff and
insert in it the lower end of finial rod; when the
centre-staff is put to its place, plumb the finial rod by
moving the lower end of the centre-staff before it is
nailed to the floor or cross timbers. (See page 74.)