Snake Plush Sewing Pattern

snake plush
a free sewing pattern by

snake plush 2 free sewing tutorial
snake plush
Not everyone is a fan of slithery snakes, but hopefully this plush
pattern will do a decent job at convincing you! This cute set of
skills used:
danger noodles are heavily inspired by adorable ball pythons • Fusible web applique
and have the sweet chubby faces to go along with it. Their • Curved sewing
bodies are particularly curly and serve as a comfy squishy place • Ladder stitch
to rest their little heads. In addition to the classic head, you • Matching notches and
can also make a hognose snake with a turned up nose and a points
rattlesnake rattle. For an extra challenge you can also make an • Gathering; gathering
intricate striped body as a nice contrast to the solid colored one. stitch
difficulty: makes:
About 45" long when
The most difficult part of this plush is lining up the forehead measured all the way down
and chin. Make sure to mark your fabric carefully and sew it the length of the body.
one section at a time for successful results. The striped version When coiled up it's about 8"
takes much longer and bumps up the difficulty to 4 out of 10. wide, 8" long, and 5" tall.
corn snake inspired ball python

inspired head
classic rests on
style its body
head
(A1-3)
hognose rattlesnake
super style head rattle optional
long (B1-3) tongue
curved
body
optional
striped
body
sew desu ne?

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// ©2024 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
materials & tools:

• 1/4 yd. of fabric for head and body • 2" x 2" of accent applique fabric for eyes
• 1/4 yd. of fabric for belly • 2" x 2" of white applique fabric for eye
• For a striped snake shines
• 1/8 yd. of fabric for stripes • 3" x 2" of black applique fabric for pupils,
• optional 1/8 yd. (or 3" x 3") of fabric for nostrils, and smile
tongue • 4" x 4" of light or heavy duty fusible web
• optional 1/8 yd. (or 7" x 5") of fabric for • sewing thread to match main fabric and
rattlesnake rattle applique fabrics
• poly-fil stuffing
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine,
scissors, iron, needles, pins, fabric
marker, seam ripper)
fusible web: applique fabrics:

lightweight
• Fusible web adhesive is fusible
• Good applique fabrics
a sheet of adhesive with include flannel, cotton,
a paper backing. felt, minky, and fleece.
Not to be confused with • Flannel and cotton
fusible interfacing, are best for detailed
which is adhesive applique with a lot of
attached to a fabric/fiber layers because they’re
backing. thinner. Meanwhile
• Some common brands felt, minky, and fleece
are Pellon & HeatnBond heavyweight are better for simpler
• In countries outside the fusible applique like body
US, it may also be known markings.
as bondaweb • Flannel is used in the
• It comes in light and example instructions
heavy duty varieties. (page 7).
Lightweight strength
is meant for applique
you intend to sew later.
Heavy duty versions are
for a no-sew bond. If you
try to sew them later
your machine might
have trouble penetrating
the glue.
sew desu ne?

fa bric com p a r is on:
fe lt cotton j e r s ey f le e ce m i nky
suggested fabrics:
long pile minky
minky or fleece
Medium weight, plush fabrics with about
minky 20%-30% stretch along the crosswise grain work
best for this project. The varieties shown to the left
are some good options and names to look for. Try
cuddle fleece to avoid heavyweight versions of fleece that are
intended for outdoor apparel or they may cause
trouble for the detailed areas.
You can also use non-stretch fabrics (such as felt),
micro fleece but be aware that the curves will be more difficult
to sew and the result will look different. The plush
will become more elongated and the edges will
anti-pill fleece look sharper.
10" of minky
stretches to 13"
= 30% stretch
fleece
minky vs. felt
sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

Set your computer to print
pages 26-33.
If you’re unfamiliar with
printing and assembling a
.pdf pattern, read the steps to
follow.
For the best results, use
a .pdf reader like Adobe
Reader. That's what is 1 2
shown here and will give you At the print dialog box, check Print the pages needed for
the most control over the the box that says print at the file. You might have one
settings. “Actual Size” or 100%. Any or more. Either way, be sure
other selection (such as “Fit to you have the full collection by
page”) will distort the pattern noting the page numbers in the
so it’s slightly larger or smaller corner.
and we don’t want that.
3 4 5
It’s likely your printer will have To line up the pattern pages, You can trace the patterns onto
a margin that ensures your match up the corresponding a different paper, or you can
image doesn’t print to the very diamond shapes. Each diamond also just cut them straight from
edge. Assembly will be easier if will have a letter, so it’s simply the printer paper -- be sure
you trim off this blank margin a matter of matching A1 to A2, that each piece is fully taped
edge. This will give you pages B3 to B4 and so on. The faint together along the joins so they
that overlap slightly during gray lines indicate the border of don’t fall apart when you cut
assembly. If you trim across the every page, you should be able them.
gray outline boxes, this will give to line those up as well. When
you pages that don’t overlap the diamond goes together,
but rather butt against each tape it in place.
other.
If you have many pages, it’s
easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows
together into a full block.
sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
striped body
STRE TCH
main body fabric
solid color body
1/4 yd.; 9” long

F1 F6 A1 A1
F2 F3 F9
NAP
ST RETCH F10 C C A3
main body fabric F8 F4 F5 F7
A2
optional
1/4 yd.; 9” long
E1 B1 B1
tongue & 33" wide
NAP
C C rattle choose classic head A(1-3)

E2 B2
B3
or hognose head B(1-3)
tongue
35" wide D D
1/8 yd.
choose classic head A(1-3) belly

STRE TCH
or hognose head B(1-3)
3"
E1 E2 1/4 yd.; 9” long
NAP
rattle
1/8 yd.
H H
25" wide
ST RETCH
belly 7" wide
1/4 yd.; 9” long
E1 E2
NAP
STRE TCH
stripes
1/8 yd.
G1 G1 G1 G1 G1
25" wide
NAP
G2 G2 G2 G1
19" wide
sew desu ne?

before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or
wait until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that a ¼" seam allowance is used throughout the project, which is included in the
pattern templates.
trace onto
paper side fuse to hold applique while
applique fabric pulling paper away
1. prepare the face applique

a. Grab your fusible web and applique templates. Trace the pieces for the face of your snake. You
should have:
• eyes (2, accent color) • pupil (2, black) • eye shine (2, white)
• nostril (2, black) • for classic head: smile (2, black)
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the applique fabrics.
c. Cut out your applique pieces and grab your head side piece (A1 or B1). Grab the eye piece. Set your
paper pattern on top of the head side piece. Align the applique piece on top where the placement
markings are. Next, carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
sew desu ne?

add eyes first

add smile next
2. finish the face applique

a. Fuse the applique pieces with your iron. Use
a press cloth, such as a scrap piece of cotton.
This will help protect any polyester or fuzzy
fabrics from melting or scorching. add small
details last
b. Add the smile pieces next (if using). Use the
paper pattern and photos as a placement
guide.
c. Finish by adding the smallest pieces, the
pupils, eye shines, and nostrils.
3. applique the hognose face

a. If you have a hognose snake head side (B1), hognose snake:
it might look something like the photo to the
right.
If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can

keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you
can sew them in place a number of ways. I’ve
used a zigzag stitch here.
→ Refer to the next step for some other
applique options.
sew desu ne?

4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
4. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in
from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape.
Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
Up first is the classic head style (A1-3).

If you're making a hognose style head, skip ahead to step 11.
line up
center sew from
front point 2 to 4 line up
smile lines
2
5. sew the center front

a. Grab your head side pieces (A1). Take both of them and align them with right sides facing and the
raw edges matching up at the center front. You can look out for the numbered points to find the
center front: look for points 2 and 4.
b. Sew the center front pieces together between points 2 and 4. Try to line up the lines of your smile as
you sew them together.
c. Open up the pieces when complete. If the smile lines don't match up perfectly, you can cover them
with a tongue later.
sew desu ne?

head sides will join to forehead
1 1
2
1 2 1
2
2
line up
point 2 at sew along
center point 2 only
6. center the forehead

a. Grab your forehead piece (A2). This piece will join along the top edge of the head side pieces (A1).
They also have numbered points for help with alignment: points 1 and 2.
b. To ensure success, we're going to start by centering the forehead. So flip over the head side piece
and line it up with the forehead at the center at point 2. Make sure right sides are facing and pin the
fabrics together.
c. Sew the head side to the forehead along point 2 only. This will keep the pieces perfectly centered
while we finish the rest of the forehead.
sew repeat on
line up from other side
point 1 at point 2
corner to 1 1
1
2
1
2
1
7. attach the forehead

a. Take one of the head side pieces and align the top edge along one side of the forehead. This should
line up point 1 at the corners. Make sure right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together from point
2 at the center to point 1 at the corner.
b. Sew from point 2 to point 1.
c. Take your other head side piece and line it up on the other side of the forehead. Pin the fabrics
together and sew from point 2 to point 1 on the other side. This should complete the forehead.
sew desu ne?

4 chin line up point sew at point

will join 4 at center 4 only
to head
sides 4
3 3 4
4
4
3 3
8. center the chin

a. Grab your chin piece (A3). We're going to repeat the same process for the forehead (A2) except
we'll attach the chin along the bottom of the head side (A1) pieces.
Look out for the numbered points for help with alignment, points 3 and 4.
b. Start by centering the head and chin pieces just like with the forehead. Align the head with the chin
at the center at point 4. Make sure right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head to the chin along point 4 only. This will ensure it's perfectly centered for future steps.
9. sew one side of the chin sew from

line up point point 4 to 3
a. Grab one of your head side 3 at corner
(A1) pieces and align it with 4
one side of the chin. This
should match up point 3 at
the corner. Make sure right
sides are facing and pin the 3
fabrics together from point 4
to point 3. 3
3
b. Sew the head to the chin

from point 4 to point 3.
sew desu ne?

line up corner
at point 3 4 the finished
face
3 3 3
3
sew from
point 4 to 3
10. finish the chin
a. Take your other head side piece (A1) and align it with the other side of the chin (A3).
b. Sew the head to the chin from point 4 to point 3 at the other corner.
c. When complete, turn your head right side out and it should look something like the third photo.
→ Skip ahead to step 14 for attaching the head back.
forehead will forehead joined

line up points sew from between head sides
join to head sides 1 and 2 point 1 to 2
1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1
2 2 2 2
2 2 2 2
a. b. c. d.
11. sew the hognose forehead
a. Grab your hognose head pieces (B1-3). Start with the head side (B1) and forehead (B2). The
forehead will join between the two head side pieces along top of the head as shown.
But you can also look out for the numbered points for help with alignment: points 1 and 2.
b. Take one head side piece and align it with one side of the forehead so points 1 and 2 match up. You'll
need to bend and stretch the curve of the head to fit around the straight side.
If you have trouble, you can make small clips in the seam allowance at the curve, and that will make
the fabric stretch better.
Make sure right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head side to the forehead from point 1 to 2.
d. Grab your other head side piece and repeat this on the other side of the forehead, sewing from point
1 to 2. This should secure the forehead between the two head side pieces.
sew desu ne?

line up center sew along

3 3 at point 4 point 4 only
4
4
4 4
chin
will join
to head
sides
3 3
12. center the chin

a. Grab your chin piece (B3). This piece will join around the bottom edge of the head side (B1) and a
little bit of the forehead. But you can look out for the numbered points to help with alignment: find
points 2, 3, and 4.
b. Start by centering the chin onto the head to make sure it doesn't get skewed or twisted while sewing.
Flip over your head piece and line up the forehead with the chin at the center at point 4. Make sure
right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the forehead to the chin at point 4 only. This will keep it nicely centered while we attach the rest
of the chin.
sew from repeat on

line up point 4 to 3 other side
corners at
point 3 4
4 2
3 3
3
13. attach the chin

a. Grab one of your head side pieces (B1) and align it with the chin on one side. This should match up
point 3 at the corner. Point 2 will also match up at the forehead seam if you're keeping track. Make
sure right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together.
b. Sew from point 4 at the center around to point 3 at the corner.
c. Grab your other head side piece and align it with the other side of the chin. Make sure right sides
are facing and pin the fabrics together. Sew from point 4 around to point 3 on the other side. This
should completely attach the chin.
sew desu ne?

14. sew & attach the head back

a. Grab your head back pieces sew along
(C). Align them with right center back
sides facing and the raw
edges matching up.
Sew the pieces together
along the center back leave
edge. This is the edge with open for
neck
the inner curve (the neck
opening). Sew the edge
above and below the neck
opening from point 5 to 6.
a. b.
b. Open up the head back
pieces when complete.
align center sew around

top at point 5 head
5 5
6
6
align center
c. bottom at point 6
d. e.
c. Grab your head front so far. We're going to attach the open edge of the head front around the edge
of the head back. There are numbered points you can use for help with alignment: points 5 and 6.
Point 5 should align at the center top of the forehead and point 6 should align at the center bottom
of the chin.
Make sure right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together.
d. Sew the head front to the head back all the way around the piece.
e. Turn the head right side out through the neck opening from before.
→ Set your head aside for a moment while we work on the body.
If you're making a striped body, continue ahead to step 15.

If you're making a solid body, skip ahead to step 19.
sew desu ne?

5 4
G1
F4 G1 F3
body
segments or mark
3
G1
F5
will be each piece
F2 joined with pin the
G1
F1
G1 stripes
between
templates
to keep
6
F6
G1 G2
track
1 2
G2 F8 F9
F7
G2
7
F10
15. label the body segments 8

a. Grab your striped body segments (F1 through F10). These pieces will be joined together in one big
spiral with the stripes in between.
The large stripes (G1) go between the first 7 segments (F1 through F7). They have notches that
match up with the segments. Meanwhile the small stripes (G2) go between the last 4 segments (F7
through F10). They also have notches that match up with the segments.
The pieces are unusually shaped and can be hard to keep track of, but they are sewn in numerical
order. They also have notch markings to help with alignment.
The next few steps will go over attaching each piece one at a time. So you can take this process as
slowly or as quickly as you like.
b. One way to keep track of the segments is to keep the pattern template pinned on them until they're
needed.
c. Another way to keep track of the pieces is to label them with a disappearing fabric marker on the
back with the corresponding number.
16. sew the first body stripes sew along

single notched
the first
stripe joined
edge
segment match
1 will join single
to large notches
stripe
a. b. c. d.
a. First up, grab your first segment (F1) and one of the large stripes (G1). These pieces will join
together along the single-notched edge.
b. Align the segment piece with the stripe along the curved edges with the single notch. Make sure
right sides are facing and pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the segment to the stripe along the single-notched edge.
d. Open up the pieces when complete.
sew desu ne?

17. continue the body stripes

→ Repeat step 16 continually adding the body segments and stripes. This page will take you
through segment 6 (F6).
large
stripe
(G1)
F2 F3
G1
a. b. c.
a. Attach segment 2 (F2) to the large stripe (G1) along the double-notched edge.
b. Attach a large stripe to segment 2 along the single-notched edge.
c. Attach segment 3 (F3) to the large stripe along the double-notched edge.
large
stripe
large (G1)
stripe
G1 (G1)
F4 G1
d. e. f.
d. Attach a large stripe to segment 3 along the single-notched edge.
e. Attach segment 4 (F4) to the large stripe along the double-notched edge.
f. Attach a large stripe to segment 4 along the single-notched edge.
large
stripe
(G1)
F5 G1
g. h. i.
F6
g. Attach segment 5 (F5) to the large stripe along the double-notched edge.
h. Attach a large stripe to segment 5 along the single-notched edge.
i. Attach segment 6 (F6) to the large stripe along the double-notched edge.
sew desu ne?

18. finish the body stripes

small
stripe
large (G2)
stripe
(G1)
G1 F7
a. Attach a large stripe (G1) to segment 6 along the single-notched edge.

b. Attach segment 7 (F7) to the large stripe along the double-notched edge.
c. Attach a small stripe (G2) to segment 7 along the single-notched edge.
small
stripe
(G2) F9
F8
d. Attach segment 8 (F8) to the small stripe along the double-notched edge.
e. Attach a small stripe to segment 8 along the single-notched edge.
f. Attach segment 9 (F9) to the small stripe along the double-notched edge.
F10 the
small completed
stripe stripes!
(G2)
g. Attach a small stripe to segment 9 along the single-notched edge.

h. Attach segment 10 (F10) to the small stripe along the double-notched edge.
i. Your stripes are now complete! Pat yourself on the back!
If your stripe seams aren't completely flat when you open them up, you can give them a light press
with an iron. But for the most part they will even out when the body is stuffed.
sew desu ne?

19. sew the body halves sew along

line up single
single notched edge
halves notches
will join at
notched
edges
a. b. c.
Grab your body half pieces (E1 & E2).
If you have a solid color snake, you should have one of each for the body fabric and belly fabric.
If you have a striped snake, you'll have just one of each for the belly fabric.
a. These pieces will join together along the middle edge to complete the full length of the snake. This
middle edge is marked on the paper pattern with a notch marking.
b. Align your two pieces together along the notched edge with right sides facing. Line up the raw
edges and pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the pieces together along the notched edge.
d. Open up the pieces when

complete, and they should the the
joined joined
look something like photo D. body belly
e. For a solid color snake: pieces pieces
repeat this once more so you
have a body and belly piece.
For a striped snake: you

should now have a stiped
body and a sewn belly.
d. e.
sew desu ne?

20. sew the belly to the back

solid body: striped body: solid body:
leave
neck open leave
small
openings
for stuffing
line up
body &
belly
line up
body &
belly
a. b. c.
a. Grab your body and belly pieces and align them with right sides together and all the raw edges
matching up. It helps to pin the fabrics first at the neck end and the tail end. Match up the large major
curves starting at the center working outward until everything is pinned.
b. If you had trouble making each stripe seam precise, you may have a harder time getting the striped
body to match up with the belly.
For any minor issues of about 1/4" to 1/2", you should be able to stretch and bend the fabric to make
it fit. For larger issues you may want to trim some of the fabric or resew any of the stripe seams.
c. If you haven't already, note the neck opening marked on the paper pattern as well as the openings
for stuffing. Mark these points on the wrong side of the fabrics you've just stacked.
Sew the body fabric to the belly all the way around the curved edges. Leave the straight neck edge
open for turning the piece later. There are also small sections left open to help with stuffing. Since
this is such a long and skinny piece, it makes stuffing go faster when there are a few extra openings.
striped body: trim seam turn

allowance at curves right
side
out
leave small
c. d. e.
openings for
stuffing
d. Trim the excess seam allowance around the tight curves of the body. This will help it turn more
cleanly by giving the fabric more flexibility.
e. Turn the snake body right side out through the opening in the neck.
sew desu ne?

21. stuff the body stuff toward tail and

toward neck move onto next
opening and stuff
start
by
stuffing
tail
a. b. c.
a. Begin stuffing the plush, starting by using the extra opening at the bottom curve for stuffing the tail.
Be sure to get small bits of stuffing in the tip of the tail so it stays looking round and doesn't deflate
later.
b. Reach as far as you can to both sides of the small stuffing opening, filling up the first section of the
tail. Stuff the body semi-firmly; just enough so there are no wrinkles near the seams.
c. Move up to the next stuffing opening and repeat the process. Stuff as far as you can toward the tail
and this should combine with the stuffing from the previous opening.
Then stuff as far as you can toward the neck.
d. Move up to the next stuffing move onto final stuff remainder

opening and repeat the opening and stuff from neck
process. Stuff as far as
you can toward the tail to
combine with the previous
stuffing, then stuff as far as
you can toward the neck.
e. Now you can stuff directly
into the neck and it should fill
all the gaps inside the body.
d. e.
sew desu ne?

22. stuff & attach the head align the head onto
the neck opening
stuff flatten head
so there if necessary
are no
wrinkles in
the nose
a. b. c.
a. Grab your head from before. You can now stuff it to go along with the body. Try to get enough
stuffing in the nose area so that there are no wrinkles near all the seams.
b. Try not to stuff the head too firmly or it could deform the flatness of the head. You can always squish
the head around the forehead area to be flat again and redistribute the stuffing.
c. Take your stuffed head and align it onto the neck opening of your snake's body. If you need extra
help, you can use the circle markings on the neck opening of the body paper pattern to line up with
the head back seams. This will help ensure the pieces are centered.
take one stitch into ladder

head neck opening and stitch
another into body around
neck
2 1
4
3 seam allowance
(folded inside)
d. e.
d. Grab a hand sewing needle and thread it. Begin ladder stitching the plush by taking one stitch into
the neck opening on the head at the center seam. Then go across and take another stitch into the
neck opening on the body.
e. Stitch around the neck opening. You may want to use long stitches at first so they're easy to adjust if
you don't like the result.
Before you come back to the beginning, you can sneak extra stuffing into the neck if you think the
plush needs it.
When you like the placement of the head, you can sew around the neck again with tinier neater
stitches to secure it.
sew desu ne?

bring pull at thread

needle while trimming
out 1-2"
away
ladder stitch
body openings
closed
23. finish the ladder stitching
a. When you’re finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam. Then insert the needle near the finished
knot. Bring the needle out about 1-2" away and pull it through.
b. Pull the thread taut while snipping the thread. The excess thread should sink back inside the plush
-- all hidden!
c. Repeat this ladder stitching to close up all of the openings for stuffing found going down the body.
leave open
for turning
trim seam
allowance at
corner
24. sew the tongue

a. Grab your tongue pieces (D). Align them with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the pointed edges. Leave the short straight edge free for turning the
piece right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tight corners. This will help the piece turn more cleanly by
reducing bulk and increasing flexiblity at those tight areas.
sew desu ne?

25. attach the tongue align tongue

tuck in seam onto mouth
allowances
a. b. c.
a. Turn the tongue (D) right side out through the opening that you left. Define the points with a
chopstick or similar turning tool.
b. Tuck in the seam allowances at the opening of the tongue by about 1/4".
c. Take the tucked end of the tongue and align it onto the mouth of your snake. For a classic snake
head, this goes centered right on the mouth.
d. For a hognose snake, this

ladder stitch
align around base goes on the chin piece,
tongue about 3/8" below point 4
3/8" in the center. There's also
beneath
point 4 a placement guide on the
paper pattern if you need
extra help.
e. Ladder stitch the base of the
tongue where it meets the
mouth of your snake.
d. e.
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leave open
for turning
26. sew the rattle
a. Grab your rattle pieces (H). Align them with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the long curved edge. Leave the short curved edge free for turning
the piece right side out.
c. Turn the rattle right side out through the opening.
stuff
lightly sew gathering stitch gathering:
around opening The process of shortening
the length of a piece of
fabric by sewing long
stitches through it. When
the thread is pulled, it
forms small folds that
ruffle the fabric.
gathering
stitch:
A long version of the
27. stuff the rattle running stitch, which is
a stitch done by weaving
a. Stuff the rattle lightly with stuffing. It doesn't need a lot of stuffing the needle in and out of a
since the tail will fill part of it. length of fabric going along
a line. The long stitches
b. Grab a hand sewing needle and knot the end. Sew a gathering stitch (about ¼”-½” long) gather
around the open edge of the rattle, about 1/4" away from the edge. the fabric when pulled
Don't gather the fabric just yet, wait until the next step. later.
sew desu ne?

insert tail pull at

into rattle thread to
cinch rattle
ladder
stitch
rattle to
tail
28. attach the rattle

a. Take your stuffed rattle (H) and align it over the tip of your snake's tail so it overlaps by about 1".
You can push the stuffing out of the way to make room for the tail if necessary.
b. When the rattle is on the tip of the tail, use the gathering thread from earlier to cinch the fabric
around the tail. Tuck in the seam allowances if the gathering doesn't do that on its own.
c. Ladder stitch the folded edge of the rattle fabric to the tail where the pieces meet.
29. sew the rattle ridges

sew short
a. To make the ridges of your rattlesnake's rattle, this is done by gathering
making a smaller gathering stitch going around the rattle several stitch
times. around
rattle to
Start by transferring the stitching lines from the paper pattern if create
you haven't already. You can also just draw 3 evenly spaced lines ridges
going around the rattle.
Take a hand sewing needle and sew a short gathering stitch
going around the stitching guides. When you get all the way
around, pull at the thread gently so it cinches up the fabric. Then
knot the thread. Move onto the next guide and repeat for all 3
guides.
congrats!
This completes your
plush! Now give it a
big hug!
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/8
TEST SQUARE
2”
measure this square to
be sure you’ve printed
at the proper
proportions
Snake Plush
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BODY FIRST HALF (E1)
Cut 1 from body fabric
Cut 1 from belly fabric
note:
For a snake with the tail tip on the ¼” seam allowance For
RIGHT, cut as follows:
• Main body fabric right side up • Ma
with template right side up w
• Belly fabric right side up • Be
stufing for
with template wrong side up w

fing
open
neck opening
STRETCH
A1 A2
1/8 pg. 2/8
1
Cut 1 from main fabric
TONGUE
¼” seam allowance
FOREHEAD
(D)
Cut 2 from
STRETCH
NAP
accent fabric
classic
(A2)
NAP ¼” seam
allowance
5
2
1
3 6 3
note:
For a snake with the tail tip on the
LEFT, cut as follows: STRETCH
• Main body fabric right side up
with template wrong side up
• Belly fabric right side up
with template right side up
NAP
NAP
CHIN (A3)
classic
classic
A1 A2
HEAD
SIDE (A1)
Cut 2 from
2 main fabric
¼” seam
allowance
NAP
applique
4 placement
STRETCH
3
pg. 3/8
stitching guide
stitching
stitching
Cut 2 from accent fabric
RATTLE (H)
g
STRETCH
uide
rattlesnake
g
B1 B2
uide
NAP
CH
STRET
he he
note:e tail tip on t note:e tail tip on t
t h s : t h :
with as follow with s follows
snake e up snake a e up
For a RIGHT, cut ht sid For a LEFT, cut ht sid
ric rig p ric rig up
i n b o dy fab right side u i n b o dy fab wrong side
• Ma template side up • Ma template side up
with bric right de up with bric right e up
B e lly fa te w rong si B e lly fa te r i g ht sid
• mpla • mpla
with te
e P l u sh with te
Snak N
T E R t.co m
A T
P nigh
c holyk F (E 2)
w w w. H A L
ECO body fabricc ND
Y S
BOD Cut 1 from elly fabri
rom b ce
Cut 1 f am allowan
¼” se
s
opetnuffing
ing f
r o
pg. 4/8
5
H
BA EAD
C CK
ma t 2 fr (C
u
i o
¼” n fab m
)
a
llow am s e ri c
ST a
R E nce
TC
H
ng
NA
ni
e
P
op
NAP
ck
ne
6
opening for
stuffing
CH
B1 B2
STRET
3/8
up
up
he
p
pg. 5/8
3
STRETCH
2
CHIN (B3)
placement
hognose
tongue
4
6
NAP
2
2 2
4
3
NAP
NAP
applique hognose ¼” seam allowance

placement HEAD Cut 1 from main fabric
STRETCH SIDE (B1) FOREHEAD (B2)
Cut 2 from
main fabric
hognose
¼” seam
allowance
STRETCH
3
1 5 1
EYES
applique NARROW PUPILS
trace & cut 1 each SMILE applique
from accent color applique trace & cut 1 each
trace & cut 1 each from black
from black
ROUND PUPIL
NOSTRILS applique
applique trace & cut 2
trace & cut 1 each from black
from black
pg. 6/8
neck op
ening
pg. 6-8
striped body striped body pieces
(more challenging)
SEGMENT 1
(neck) (F1)
STRETCH
NAP
NAP
nce
a llowa abric
eam in f
¼” s rom ma 2 (F
2)
1f T
Cut MEN dy
SEG striped bo
R E TCH
ST
R E TCH
ST ody
st ripe
db
3 (F3ic)
T abr
ENmain f nce
G M
SE t 1 from allowa
Cu seam
¼”
NAP
striped body
LARGE STRIPE
(G1)
NAP

STRETCH
pg. 7/8
striped body
SMALL STRIPE
(G2)
NAP
STRETCH
STRETCH
striped body
NAP
SEGMENT 4 (F4)
SEGMENT 5 (F5)
NAP
striped body
STRETCH
ST
R ET
CH
SE strip
G
Cut ME d bod
e
¼” from T
1 N y
sea m 6 (
NA
F
llow fabr 6)
m a ain
P
a
nce ic
pg. 8/8
NA
P
c ic )
an r 7
y
lo f (F
ea m T od
H
TC
” s ro N b
w ab
al ain 7
¼ t 1 f E ed
e
E
striped body
R
M p
Cu G tri
ST
m m SEGMENT 10
s
(tail) (F10)
SE

STRETCH
NAP
STRE
TCH
s
SEGMtriped body
Cut 1 ENT
8
¼” s om main (F8)
fr
eam f
a llowa abric
nce
NAP
SEGMENT 9 (F9)
STRETCH
striped body
NAP

Snake Plush Sewing Pattern

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Snake Plush Sewing Pattern

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snake plush

a free sewing pattern by

corn snake inspired ball python

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

fusible web: applique fabrics:

sew desu ne?

fa bric com p a r is on:

minky vs. felt

sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:

1/4 yd.; 9” long

C C rattle choose classic head A(1-3)

choose classic head A(1-3) belly

sew desu ne?

before you begin:

1. prepare the face applique

sew desu ne?

add eyes first

2. finish the face applique

3. applique the hognose face

If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can

sew desu ne?

4. other applique options

Up first is the classic head style (A1-3).

5. sew the center front

sew desu ne?

head sides will join to forehead

6. center the forehead

7. attach the forehead

sew desu ne?

4 chin line up point sew at point

8. center the chin

9. sew one side of the chin sew from

b. Sew the head to the chin

sew desu ne?

forehead will forehead joined

sew desu ne?

line up center sew along

12. center the chin

sew from repeat on

13. attach the chin

sew desu ne?

14. sew & attach the head back

align center sew around

If you're making a striped body, continue ahead to step 15.

sew desu ne?

15. label the body segments 8

16. sew the first body stripes sew along

sew desu ne?

17. continue the body stripes

sew desu ne?

18. finish the body stripes

a. Attach a large stripe (G1) to segment 6 along the single-notched edge.

g. Attach a small stripe to segment 9 along the single-notched edge.

sew desu ne?

19. sew the body halves sew along

d. Open up the pieces when